This is a modern-English version of The Journals of Lewis and Clark, 1804-1806, originally written by Clark, William, Lewis, Meriwether.
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THE JOURNALS OF LEWIS AND CLARK
By Meriwether Lewis and and William Clark
1804-1806
Transcriber's Note: These Journals are from May 14, 1804, the day the expedition left the Mississippi River, to September 26, 1806, a day or two after they arrived back in St. Louis. It includes all possible Journal entries of Lewis and Clark. Most of the "courses and distances" and "celestial observations" have been omitted. The notes and most of the corrections of past editors have been removed. There are a few OCR errors, but most of the misspellings are almost 200 years old. The dates with the names in the brackets are a little redundent. They are included to provide the correct date in a consistent format.
PG Editor's Note: Misspellings, inventive punctuation and lack of punctuation along with variable capitalization, and not entirely clear abbreviations have been left as is. DW
Transcriber's Note: These Journals cover the period from May 14, 1804, when the expedition left the Mississippi River, to September 26, 1806, just a day or two after their return to St. Louis. It includes all important Journal entries from Lewis and Clark. Most of the "courses and distances" and "celestial observations" have been taken out. Previous editors' notes and most corrections have also been removed. There are a few OCR errors, but most of the misspellings are nearly 200 years old. The dates next to the names in brackets are a bit unnecessary. They are included to ensure that the accurate date appears in a consistent format.
PG Editor's Note: Misspellings, creative punctuation, inconsistent punctuation, variable capitalization, and somewhat unclear abbreviations have been kept as they are. DW
THE JOURNALS OF LEWIS AND CLARK
[Clark, May 14, 1804]
May the 14th-Monday Set out from Camp River a Dubois at 4 oClock P.M. and proceded up the Missouris under Sail to the first Island in the Missouri and Camped on the upper point opposit a Creek on the South Side below a ledge of limestone rock Called Colewater, made 41/2 miles, the Party Consisted of 2, Self one frenchman and 22 Men in the Boat of 20 ores, 1 Serjt. & 7 french in a large Perogue, a Corp and 6 Soldiers in a large Perogue. a Cloudy rainey day. wind from the N E. men in high Spirits
May 14th - Monday We left Camp River a Dubois at 4 PM and sailed up the Missouri to the first island, where we camped on the upper point across from a creek on the south side below a ledge of limestone rock called Colewater. We covered 4.5 miles. The group consisted of me, one Frenchman, and 22 men in the boat with 20 oars, 1 sergeant, and 7 French men in a large pirogue, plus a corporal and 6 soldiers in another large pirogue. It was a cloudy, rainy day with wind coming from the northeast, but the men were in high spirits.
[Clark, May 14, 1804]
Monday May 14th 1804 Rained the forepart of the day I determined to go as far as St. Charles a french Village 7 Leags. up the Missourie, and wait at that place untill Capt. Lewis Could finish the business in which he was obliged to attend to at St Louis and join me by Land from that place 24 miles; by this movement I calculated that if any alterations in the loading of the Vestles or other Changes necessary, that they might be made at St. Charles I Set out at 4 oClock P.M. in the presence of many of the Neighbouring inhabitents, and proceeded on under a jentle brease up the Missourie to the upper Point of the 1st Island 4 Miles and Camped on the Island which is Situated Close on the right (or Starboard) Side, and opposit the mouth of a Small Creek called Cold water, a heavy rain this after-noon The Course of this day nearly West wind from N. E
Monday, May 14, 1804. It rained for most of the day. I decided to travel as far as St. Charles, a French village 7 leagues up the Missouri River, and wait there until Capt. Lewis could finish his business in St. Louis and join me overland from there, which is 24 miles away. I figured that any changes needed in the loading of the vessels or other arrangements could be addressed at St. Charles. I set out at 4 PM in front of many local residents and made my way under a gentle breeze up the Missouri to the upper point of the first island, 4 miles in, and camped on the island situated close to the right (or starboard) side, across from the mouth of a small creek called Cold Water. It rained heavily this afternoon. The course of the day was nearly west with the wind coming from the northeast.
[Lewis, May 15, 1804]
Tuesday May 15th It rained during the greater part of last night and continued untill 7 OCk. A.M. after which the Prarty proceeded, passed two Islands and incamped on the Stard. shore at Mr. Fifer's landing opposite an Island, the evening was fair. some wild gees with their young brudes were seen today. the barge run foul three several times—on logs, and in one instance it was with much difficulty they could get her off; happily no injury was sustained, tho the barge was several minutes in eminent danger; this was cased by her being too heavily laden in the stern. Persons accustomed to the navigation of the Missouri and the Mississippi also below the mouth of this river, uniformly take the precaution to load their vessels heavyest in the bow when they ascend the stream in order to avoid the danger incedent to runing foul of the concealed timber which lyes in great quantities in the beds of these rivers.
Tuesday, May 15th It rained for most of last night and continued until 7:00 A.M. After that, the party moved on, passed two islands, and camped on the starboard shore at Mr. Fifer's landing, across from an island. The evening was nice. Some wild geese with their young were seen today. The barge ran aground three times on logs, and at one point, it took a lot of effort to get it off; luckily, no damage was done, though the barge was in serious danger for several minutes. This happened because it was too heavily loaded in the stern. People who are used to navigating the Missouri and Mississippi rivers, especially below the mouth of this river, always make sure to load their vessels heavier in the bow when going upstream to avoid the risk of running into the hidden timber that lies in large amounts on the riverbeds.
[Clark, May 15, 1804]
Tuesday 15—rained all last night and this morning untill 7 oClock, all our fire extinguished, Some Provisions on the top of the Perogus wet, I sent two men to the Countrey to hunt, & proceed on at 9 oClock, and proceeded on 9 miles and Camped at a Mr Pip. Landing just below a Coal Bank on the South Side the prarie Comes with 1/4 of a mile of the river on the N. Side I sent to the Setlements in the Pairie & purchased fowls &. one of the Perogue are not Sufficently maned to Keep up.
Tuesday 15—It rained all night and this morning until 7 o'clock. Our fire was completely out, and some supplies on top of the canoe got wet. I sent two men to the countryside to hunt and we set off at 9 o'clock. We traveled 9 miles and camped at Mr. Pip's place, landing just below a coal bank on the south side. The prairie comes within a quarter mile of the river on the north side. I sent to the settlements in the prairie and bought some chickens, but one of the canoes didn't have enough crew to keep up.
Refurences from the 15th of May (2) a large Island to the Starboard; (3) passed a Small Island in the bend to the Starbord, opposit Passage De Soux and with 11/2 miles of the mississippi, observed a number of Gosselins on the edge of the river many passing down, Strong water & wind from the N E—Passed a Place Lbord Called the Plattes, a flat rock projecting from the foot of a hill, where there is a farm, (5) pass an Small Isld near the Center of the river, run on Several logs this after noon, Camped at Mr. Pipers Landing.
Reflections from May 15th: (2) a large island on the right side; (3) passed a small island in the bend to the right, opposite Passage De Soux and within 1.5 miles of the Mississippi, noticed a number of geese at the river's edge, many heading downstream, with strong water and wind coming from the northeast—passed a place on the left called the Plattes, a flat rock sticking out from the base of a hill, where there’s a farm, (5) passed a small island near the center of the river, ran into several logs this afternoon, and set up camp at Mr. Piper's Landing.
[Clark, May 15, 1804]
May 15th Tuesday Rained the greater part of the last night, and this morning untile 7 oClock—at 9 oClock Set out and proceeded on 9 miles passed two Islands & incamped on the Starbd. Side at a Mr. Pipers Landing opposit an Island, the Boat run on Logs three times to day, owing her being too heavyly loaded a Sturn, a fair after noon, I Saw a number of Goslings to day on the Shore, the water excessively rapid, & Banks falling in-.
May 15th, Tuesday. It rained for most of the night, and this morning until 7 o'clock. At 9 o'clock, we set out and traveled 9 miles, passing two islands, and camped on the starboard side at Mr. Piper's Landing, across from an island. The boat hit logs three times today because it was too heavily loaded. A strong breeze picked up in the afternoon. I saw several goslings on the shore today; the water was extremely fast, and the banks were eroding.
[Clark, May 16, 1804]
Wednesday May 16th A fair morning, Set out at 5 oClock passed the Coal hill (Call by the natives Carbonear) this hill appears to Contain great quantytes of Coal, and also ore of a rich appearance haveing greatly the resemblance of Silver Arrived Opposit St Charles at 12 oClock, this Village is at the foot of a Hill from which it takes its real name Peeteite Coete or the little hill, it contains about 100 indefferent houses, and abot 450 Inhabetents principally frinch, those people appear pore and extreemly kind, the Countrey around I am told is butifull. interspursed with Praries & timber alturnetly and has a number of American Settlers
Wednesday, May 16th A nice morning. We set out at 5 o'clock and passed the Coal Hill (known by the locals as Carbonear). This hill seems to have a lot of coal and also some rich-looking ore that resembles silver. We arrived opposite St. Charles at 12 o'clock. This village is at the foot of a hill from which it gets its real name, Peeteite Coete, or the little hill. It has about 100 average houses and around 450 inhabitants, mainly French. Those people seem poor but extremely kind. I’ve been told that the countryside is beautiful, with alternating prairies and timber, and it has a number of American settlers.
Took equal altituds with Sextion M a 68°37'30" Dined with the Comdr. & Mr. Ducetts family—(1) Passed an Island on the L Side just above the bank one just above, two Small ones oposut under the St. Shore, one on Lb. Side below St Charles, arrived at this place at 12 oClock a fine Day
Took equal altitudes with Section M at 68°37'30". Had dinner with the Commander and Mr. Ducett's family—(1) Passed an island on the left side just above the bank, one just above, two small ones opposite under the St. Shore, one on the left side below St. Charles, arrived at this place at 12 o'clock on a nice day.
[Clark, May 16, 1804]
May 16th Wednesday a fair morning Set out at 5 oClk pass a remarkable Coal Hill on the Larboard Side Called by the French Carbonere, this hill appear to Contain great quantity of Coal & ore of a ____ appearance from this hill the village of St Charles may be Seen at 7 miles distance—we arrived at St. Charles at 12 oClock a number Spectators french & Indians flocked to the bank to See the party. This Village is about one mile in length, Situated on the North Side of the Missourie at the foot of a hill from which it takes its name Petiete Coete or the Little hill This village Contns. about 100 houses, the most of them Small and indefferent and about 450 inhabitents Chiefly French, those people appear pore, polite & harmonious—I was invited to Dine with a Mr. Ducett this gentleman was once a merchant from Canadia, from misfortunes aded to the loss of a Cargo Sold to the late judge Turner he has become Somewhat reduced, he has a Charming wife an eligent Situation on the hill Serounded by orchards & a excellent gardain.
May 16th, Wednesday, a beautiful morning. We set out at 5 o'clock and passed a notable Coal Hill on the left side, called Carbonere by the French. This hill seems to contain a significant amount of coal and ore that looks unusual. From this hill, the village of St. Charles can be seen about seven miles away. We arrived in St. Charles at 12 o'clock, and a number of onlookers, both French and Indians, gathered on the bank to see our group. This village is about a mile long, situated on the north side of the Missouri River at the foot of a hill from which it gets its name, Petiete Coete, or the Little Hill. The village has around 100 houses, most of which are small and somewhat unimpressive, and about 450 inhabitants, mainly French. These people appear poor, polite, and harmonious. I was invited to dine with a Mr. Ducett. This gentleman was once a merchant from Canada, but due to misfortunes, including the loss of a cargo sold to the late Judge Turner, he has become somewhat reduced in circumstances. He has a charming wife and an elegant home on the hill, surrounded by orchards and an excellent garden.
[Clark, May 17, 1804]
Thursday the 17th 1804 a fine Day 3 men Confined for misconduct, I had a Court martial & punishment Several Indians, who informed me that the Saukees had lately Crossed to war against the Osage Nation Som aplicasions, I took equal altitudes made the m a. to be 84° 39' 15" measured the Missouries at this place and made it 720 yards wide, in Banks. a Boat came up this evening, I punished Hall agreeable to his Sentence in part, a fine after noon; Suped with Mr. Ducett an agreeable man more agreeable Lady, this Gentleman has a Delightfull Situation & garden.
Thursday, the 17th of 1804, was a nice day. Three men were confined for misconduct, and I held a court-martial along with punishments. Several Indians informed me that the Saukees had recently crossed to go to war against the Osage Nation. I took equal altitudes, and recorded them as 84° 39' 15". I measured the Missouri River at this spot and found it to be 720 yards wide, at the banks. A boat arrived this evening, and I partially enforced Hall's sentence with a fine after noon. I had dinner with Mr. Ducett, a pleasant man, and his equally pleasant lady. This gentleman has a delightful location and garden.
[Clark, May 17, 1804]
May the 17th Thursday 1804 a fair day Compelled to punish for misconduct. Several Kickapoos Indians Visit me to day, George Drewyer arrive. Took equal altitudes of Suns L L made it 84° 39' 15" ap T. Measured the river found it to be 720 yards wide, a Keel Boat Came up to day—Several of the inhabitents Came abord to day receved Several Speces of Vegatables from the inhabitents to day
May 17th, Thursday, 1804 - a nice day. I had to discipline someone for their bad behavior. Several Kickapoo Indians came to see me today, and George Drewyer arrived. I took equal altitudes of the sun; it measured at 84° 39' 15" apparent temperature. I measured the river and found it to be 720 yards wide. A keel boat came in today, and several of the locals came on board. I received several types of vegetables from the locals today.
[Ordway, May 17, 1804] Orders St. Charles Thursdy the 17th of May 1804- a Sergeant and four men of the Party destined for the Missourri Expidition will convene at 11 oClock to day on the quarter Deck of the Boat, and form themselves into a Court martial to hear and determine (in behalf of the Capt.) the evidences aduced against William Warner & Hugh Hall for being absent last night without leave; contrary to orders;-& John Collins 1st for being absent without leave—2nd for behaveing in an unbecomeing manner at the Ball last night—3rdly for Speaking in a language last night after his return tending to bring into disrespect the orders of the Commanding officer
[Ordway, May 17, 1804] Orders St. Charles Thursday, May 17, 1804 - A Sergeant and four members of the team assigned to the Missouri Expedition will meet at 11 o'clock today on the quarterdeck of the boat to form a court-martial. They will hear and determine (on behalf of the Captain) the evidence presented against William Warner and Hugh Hall for being absent last night without permission, which is against orders; and John Collins: first for being absent without leave, second for behaving inappropriately at the ball last night, and third for speaking in a way last night after returning that disrespected the orders of the commanding officer.
Signd. W. Clark Comdg.
Signd. W. Clark, Commanding.
Detail for Court martial
Court martial details
Segt. John Ordway Prs.
Sgt. John Ordway Pres.
members R. Fields R. Windsor J. Whitehouse Jo. Potts
members R. Fields R. Windsor J. Whitehouse Jo. Potts
The Court convened agreeable to orders on the 17th of May 1804 Sgt. John Ordway P. members Joseph Whitehouse Rueben Fields Potts Richard Windsor after being duly Sworn the Court proceded to the trial of William Warner & Hugh Hall on the following Charges Viz: for being absent without leave last night contrary to orders, to this Charge the Prisoners plead Guilty. The Court one of oppinion that the Prisoners Warner & Hall are Both Guilty of being absent from camp without leave it being a breach of the Rules and articles of war and do Sentence them Each to receive twentyfive lashes on their naked back, but the Court recommend them from their former Good conduct, to the mercy of the commanding officer.—at the Same court was tried John Collins Charged 1st for being absent without leave—2d. for behaveing in an unbecomming manner at the ball last night idly for Speaking in a languguage after his return to camp tending to bring into disrespect the orders of the Commanding officer—The Prisoner Pleads Guilty to the first Charge but not Guilty to the two last chrges.—after mature deliberation & agreeable to the evidence aduced. The Court are of oppinion that the Prisnair is Guilty of all the charges alledged against him it being a breach of the rules & articles of War and do Sentence him to receive fifty lashes on his naked back—The Commanding officer approves of the proceedings & Desicon of the Court martial and orders that the punishment of John Collins take place this evening at Sun Set in the Presence of the Party.—The punishment ordered to be inflicted on William Warner & Hugh Hall, is remitted under the assurence arriveing from a confidence which the Commanding officer has of the Sincerity of the recommendation from the Court.—after the punishment, Warner Hall & Collins will return to their squads and Duty
The Court met as scheduled on May 17, 1804. Sgt. John Ordway and members Joseph Whitehouse, Reuben Fields Potts, and Richard Windsor were duly sworn in, and the Court proceeded with the trial of William Warner and Hugh Hall on the following charges: being absent without leave last night, in violation of orders. The defendants pleaded guilty to this charge. The Court unanimously found Warner and Hall guilty of being absent from camp without permission, which is a violation of the Rules and Articles of War, and sentenced each to receive twenty-five lashes on their bare backs. However, the Court recommended them for mercy to the commanding officer due to their previous good conduct. In the same session, John Collins was tried on three charges: 1st for being absent without leave, 2nd for behaving in an unbecoming manner at the ball last night, and 3rd for speaking in a language that disrespected the orders of the commanding officer upon his return to camp. The prisoner pleaded guilty to the first charge but not guilty to the latter two. After careful consideration and based on the evidence presented, the Court found Collins guilty of all the charges against him, as they constituted a breach of the Rules and Articles of War, and sentenced him to receive fifty lashes on his bare back. The commanding officer approved of the Court's proceedings and decision, ordering that Collins’s punishment take place this evening at sunset in front of his unit. The punishment for William Warner and Hugh Hall was postponed based on the commanding officer's confidence in the sincerity of the Court's recommendation. After the punishment, Warner, Hall, and Collins will return to their squads and duties.
The Court is Disolved.
The court is dissolved.
Sign. Wm. Clark
Sign. Wm. Clark
[Clark, May 18, 1804]
Friday May the 18th 1804 a fine morning took equal altitude and made it 97° 42' 37" M. A
Friday, May 18th, 1804, a nice morning took equal altitude and made it 97° 42' 37" M. A.
I had the Boat & Pierogue reloded So as to Cause them to be heavyer in bow than asturn recved of Mr. Lyon 136 lb. Tobacco on act. of Mr. Choteau Gave out tin Cups & 3 Knives to the French hands, Mr. Lauriesme returned from the Kickapoo Town to day delayed a Short time & Set out for St. Louis, I Sent George Drewyer with Mr. Lauriesmus to St Louis & wrote to Cap Lewis Mr. Ducett made me a present of rivr Catts & Some Herbs our french hands bring me eggs milk &c. &. to day The wind hard from the S. W. Two Keel Boats came up to this place to day from Kentucky
I had the boat and pirogue loaded to make them heavier in the bow than at the stern. I received 136 lbs. of tobacco from Mr. Lyon on behalf of Mr. Choteau. I distributed tin cups and three knives to the French crew. Mr. Lauriesme returned from Kickapoo Town today, was delayed for a short time, and then set out for St. Louis. I sent George Drewyer with Mr. Lauriesmus to St. Louis and wrote to Cap Lewis. Mr. Ducett gave me a gift of river catfish and some herbs. Our French crew brings me eggs, milk, etc. Today, the wind was strong from the southwest. Two keel boats arrived at this place today from Kentucky.
[Clark, May 18, 1804]
May the 18th Friday 1804 a fine morning, I had the loading in the Boat & perogue examined and changed So as the Bow of each may be heavyer laded than the Stern, Mr. Lauremus who had been Sent by Cap Lewis to the Kickapoo Town on public business return'd and after a Short delay proceeded on to St Louis, I Sent George Drewyer with a Letter to Capt Lewis Two Keel Boats arrive from Kentucky to day loaded with whiskey Hats &c. &. the wind from the SW. Took equal altitudes with Sexetn Made it 97°42' 37" MT.
Friday, May 18, 1804, was a beautiful morning. I had the loading in the boat and canoe checked and adjusted so that the bows of each are heavier loaded than the sterns. Mr. Lauremus, who had been sent by Captain Lewis to Kickapoo Town on official business, returned and after a short delay, continued on to St. Louis. I sent George Drewyer with a letter to Captain Lewis. Two keel boats arrived from Kentucky today loaded with whiskey, hats, etc., and the wind was coming from the southwest. I took equal altitudes with a sextant and calculated it to be 97°42'37" MT.
[Clark, May 19, 1804]
Satturday May the 19th 1804 a Violent Wind last night from the W. S W, Suckceeded by rain with lasted Som hours, a Cloudy Morning, many persons Came to the boat to day I took equal altitudes. mar time 76° 33' 7"
Satturday, May 19th, 1804: A violent wind from the WSW last night was followed by rain that lasted several hours. It was a cloudy morning. Many people came to the boat today. I took equal altitudes. Marine time: 76° 33' 7".
I heard of my Brothers illness to day which has given me much Concurn, I settle with the men and take receipts for Pay up to the 1st of Decr. next, I am invited to a ball in the Village, let Several of the men go,—R Fields Kill a Deer George Drewyear returned with a hundred Dollars, he lost
I heard about my brother's illness today, which has really worried me. I've settled with the guys and taken receipts for payment up to December 1st. I'm invited to a dance in the village and let several of the men go. R. Fields killed a deer, and George Drewyear came back with a hundred dollars that he lost.
[Clark, May 19, 1804]
May 19th Satturday 1804 A Violent Wind last night from the W. S. W. accompanied with rain which lasted about three hours Cleared away this morn'g at 8 oClock, I took receipt for the pay of the men up to the 1st. of Decr. next, R. Fields Kill a Deer to day, I recve an invitation to a Ball, it is not in my power to go. George Drewyer return from St Louis and brought 99 Dollars, he lost a letter from Cap Lewis to me, Seven Ladies visit me to day
May 19th, Saturday, 1804 A strong wind last night from the W.S.W., along with rain that lasted about three hours, cleared up this morning at 8 o'clock. I received payment for the men's wages up to December 1st. R. Fields killed a deer today. I got invited to a ball, but I can’t go. George Drewyer returned from St. Louis and brought $99; he lost a letter from Captain Lewis to me. Seven ladies visited me today.
[Lewis, May 20, 1804]
Sunday May 20th 1804 The morning was fair, and the weather pleasent; at 10 oCk A M. agreably to an appointment of the preceeding day, I was joined by Capt. Stoddard, Lieuts. Milford & Worrell together with Messrs. A. Chouteau, C. Gratiot, and many other respectable inhabitants of St. Louis, who had engaged to accompany me to the Vilage of St. Charles; accordingly at 12 Oclk after bidding an affectionate adieu to my Hostis, that excellent woman the spouse of Mr. Peter Chouteau, and some of my fair friends of St. Louis, we set forward to that village in order to join my friend companion and fellow labourer Capt. William Clark who had previously arrived at that place with the party destined for the discovery of the interior of the continent of North America the first 5 miles of our rout laid through a beatifull high leavel and fertile prarie which incircles the town of St. Louis from N. W. to S. E. the lands through which we then passed are somewhat broken up fertile the plains and woodlands are here indiscriminately interspersed untill you arrive within three miles of the vilage when the woodland commences and continues to the Missouri the latter is extreamly fertile. At half after one P.M. our progress was interrupted the near approach of a violent thunder storm from the N. W. and concluded to take shelter in a little cabbin hard by untill the rain should be over; accordingly we alighted and remained about an hour and a half and regailed ourselves with a could collation which we had taken the precaution to bring with us from St. Louis.
Sunday, May 20th, 1804: The morning was clear, and the weather pleasant. At 10 AM, as planned the day before, I was joined by Capt. Stoddard, Lieuts. Milford and Worrell, along with Messrs. A. Chouteau, C. Gratiot, and several other respected residents of St. Louis who had agreed to accompany me to the village of St. Charles. So, at noon, after bidding a fond farewell to my gracious host, the wonderful Mrs. Peter Chouteau, and some of my lovely friends from St. Louis, we set out for the village to meet my friend, fellow companion, and co-laborer Capt. William Clark, who had arrived there earlier with the group intended for the exploration of the interior of North America. The first five miles of our route took us through a beautiful, high-level, fertile prairie that surrounds St. Louis from the northwest to the southeast. The lands we passed through were somewhat uneven but fertile; the plains and woodlands were mixed together until we got within three miles of the village, where woodlands began and continued toward the Missouri River, which is extremely fertile. At 1:30 PM, our journey was interrupted by the approach of a violent thunderstorm from the northwest, so we decided to take shelter in a nearby cabin until the rain passed. We stopped and spent about an hour and a half there, enjoying a cool snack that we had wisely brought with us from St. Louis.
The clouds continued to follow each other in rapaid succession, insomuch that there was but little prospect of it's ceasing to rain this evening; as I had determined to reach St. Charles this evening and knowing that there was now no time to be lost I set forward in the rain, most of the gentlemen continued with me, we arrived at half after six and joined Capt Clark, found the party in good health and sperits. suped this evening with Monsr. Charles Tayong a Spanish Ensign & late Commandant of St. Charles at an early hour I retired to rest on board the barge—St. Charles is situated on the North bank of the Missouri 21 Miles above it's junction with the Mississippi, and about the same distance N. W. from St. Louis; it is bisected by one principal street about a mile in length runing nearly parrallel with the river, the plain on which it stands-is narrow tho sufficiently elivated to secure it against the annual inundations of the river, which usually happen in the month of June, and in the rear it is terminated by a range of small hills, hence the appellation of petit Cote, a name by which this vilage is better known to the French inhabitants of the Illinois than that of St. Charles. The Vilage contains a Chappel, one hundred dwelling houses, and about 450 inhabitants; their houses are generally small and but illy constructed; a great majority of the inhabitants are miserably pour, illiterate and when at home excessively lazy, tho they are polite hospitable and by no means deficient in point of natural genious, they live in a perfect state of harmony among each other; and plase as implicit confidence in the doctrines of their speritual pastor, the Roman Catholic priest, as they yeald passive obedience to the will of their temporal master the commandant. a small garden of vegetables is the usual extent of their cultivation, and this is commonly imposed on the old men and boys; the men in the vigor of life consider the cultivation of the earth a degrading occupation, and in order to gain the necessary subsistence for themselves and families, either undertake hunting voyages on their own account, or engage themselves as hirelings to such persons as possess sufficient capital to extend their traffic to the natives of the interior parts of the country; on those voyages in either case, they are frequently absent from their families or homes the term of six twelve or eighteen months and alwas subjected to severe and incessant labour, exposed to the ferosity of the lawless savages, the vicissitudes of weather and climate, and dependant on chance or accident alone for food, raiment or relief in the event of malady. These people are principally the decendants of the Canadian French, and it is not an inconsiderable proportian of them that can boast a small dash of the pure blood of the aboriginees of America. On consulting with my friend Capt. C. I found it necessary that we should pospone our departure untill 2 P M. the next day and accordingly gave orders to the party to hold themselves in readiness to depart at that hour.
The clouds kept moving quickly, which meant there was little chance of the rain stopping this evening. I was determined to reach St. Charles tonight, and knowing I couldn't waste any time, I set off in the rain. Most of the gentlemen came with me, and we arrived around 6:30 PM, joining Capt. Clark, who found the party in good health and spirits. I had dinner tonight with Monsieur Charles Tayong, a Spanish Ensign and former Commandant of St. Charles. Afterward, I went to bed on the barge. St. Charles is located on the north bank of the Missouri River, 21 miles above where it meets the Mississippi, and about the same distance northwest of St. Louis. The village is split by one main street, about a mile long, running almost parallel to the river. The land is narrow but high enough to protect it from the river's annual flooding, which usually occurs in June. Behind it, there’s a small range of hills, giving it the nickname "petit Cote," which is better known to the French residents of Illinois than the name St. Charles. The village has a chapel, one hundred houses, and around 450 residents. Their homes are generally small and poorly built. Most of the residents are quite poor, uneducated, and very lazy when at home, though they are polite and hospitable, lacking nothing in natural talent. They live in perfect harmony with each other and have great trust in the teachings of their spiritual leader, the Roman Catholic priest, just as they obey their temporal leader, the commandant. They typically cultivate a small vegetable garden, which is usually the job of the old men and boys. The able-bodied men see farming as a degrading task, so to support themselves and their families, they either go on hunting trips themselves or work for people with enough resources to trade with the natives in the interior. These trips often keep them away from their families and homes for six, twelve, or even eighteen months, exposing them to harsh labor, dangers from lawless individuals, severe weather, and depending entirely on chance for food, clothing, or help in case of illness. The population mainly descends from Canadian French, and a significant portion can trace some lineage back to the Native Americans. After discussing with my friend Capt. C., I decided we needed to postpone our departure until 2 PM the next day, and I instructed the group to be ready to leave at that time.
Captn. Clark now informed me that having gotten all the stores on board the Barge and perogues on the evening of the 13th of May he determined to leave our winter cantainment at the mouth of River Dubois the next day, and to ascend the Missouri as far as the Vilage of St. Charles, where as it had been previously concerted between us, he was to wait my arrival; this movement while it advanced us a small distance on our rout, would also enable him to determine whether the vessels had been judiciously loaded and if not timely to make the necessary alterations; accordingly at 4 P.M. on Monday the 14th of May 1804, he embarked with the party in the presence of a number of the neighbouring Citizens who had assembled to witness his departure. during the fore part of this day it rained excessively hard. In my last letter to the President dated at St. Louis I mentioned the departure of Capt. Clark from River Dubois on the 15th Inst, which was the day that had been calculated on, but having completed the arrangements a day earlyer he departed on the 14th as before mentioned. On the evening of the 14th the party halted and encamped on the upper point of the first Island which lyes near the Larbord shore, on the same side and nearly opposite the center of this Island a small Creek disimbogues called Couldwater.
Captain Clark informed me that after getting all the supplies on board the barge and canoes on the evening of May 13th, he planned to leave our winter camp at the mouth of the Dubois River the next day and head up the Missouri as far as the village of St. Charles, where he would wait for my arrival, as we had previously agreed. This move would not only advance us a small distance on our route, but also allow him to check if the vessels were loaded properly and, if not, make the necessary adjustments in time. So, at 4 PM on Monday, May 14, 1804, he set off with the party in front of several local citizens who had gathered to see him off. It rained heavily earlier that day. In my last letter to the President, dated from St. Louis, I mentioned Captain Clark's departure from the Dubois River on the 15th, which was the planned day, but since he completed the arrangements a day earlier, he left on the 14th as stated. On the evening of the 14th, the party stopped and camped on the upper point of the first island, which lies near the shore on the same side, and almost directly opposite the center of this island is a small creek called Coldwater.
The course and distance of this day was West 4 Miles the Wind from N. E.
The path and distance today were 4 miles to the west with the wind coming from the northeast.
[Clark, May 20, 1804]
Sunday 20th May a Cloudy morning rained and a hard wind last night I continue to write Rolls, Send 20 men to Church to day one man Sick Capt Lewis and Several Gentlemen arrive from St Louis thro a violent Shoure of rain, the most of the party go to the Church.
Sunday, May 20th. It was a cloudy morning with rain and strong winds last night. I continue to write rolls and send 20 men to church today. One man is sick. Captain Lewis and several gentlemen arrive from St. Louis through a heavy downpour. Most of the group goes to church.
[Clark, May 20, 1804]
Sunday 20th May A Cloudy morning rained and hard wind from the ____ last night, The letter George lost yesterday found by a Country man, I gave the party leave to go and hear a Sermon to day delivered by Mr. ____ a romon Carthlick Priest at 3 oClock Capt. Lewis Capt. Stoddard accompanied by the Officers & Several Gentlemen of St Louis arrived in a heavy Showr of Rain Mssr. Lutenants Minford & Werness. Mr. Choteau Grattiot, Deloney, Laber Dee Ranken Dr. SoDrang rained the greater part of this evening. Suped with Mr. Charles Tayon, the late Comdt. of St Charles a Spanish Ensign.
Sunday, May 20th It was a cloudy morning with rain and strong winds from the ____ last night. The letter that George lost yesterday was found by a local farmer. I allowed the group to go and attend a sermon today delivered by Mr. ____ a Roman Catholic Priest at 3 o'clock. Capt. Lewis, Capt. Stoddard, along with the officers and several gentlemen from St. Louis, arrived during a heavy downpour. Messrs. Lieutenants Minford & Werness, Mr. Choteau, Grattiot, Deloney, Laber, Dee Ranken, and Dr. SoDrang experienced rain for most of the evening. I had dinner with Mr. Charles Tayon, the former commander of St. Charles, who is a Spanish ensign.
[Clark, May 21, 1804]
Monday 21st May Dine with Mr. Ducete & Set out from St. Charles at three oClock after getting every matter arranged, proceeded on under a jentle Breese, at one mile a Violent rain with Wind from the S. W. we landed at the upper point of the first Island on the Stbd Side & Camped, Soon after it commenced raining & continued the greater part of the night; 3 french men got leave to return to Town, and return early (refur to Fig. 2.)
Monday, May 21st Dine with Mr. Ducete & Set out from St. Charles at three o'clock after everything was arranged. We proceeded on under a gentle breeze. At one mile, a heavy rain and wind from the southwest hit us, and we landed at the upper point of the first island on the starboard side & camped. Soon after, it started to rain and continued for most of the night. Three French men got permission to go back to town and return early (refer to Fig. 2.)
25st refured to fig. 2 Left St. Charles May 21st 1804. Steered N. 15° W 13/4 Ms N 52°W to the upper point of the Island and Camped dureing a rain which had been falling half an hour, opposit this Isd. Corns in a Small creek on the St. Sd. and at the head one on the Ld. Side rains powerfully.
25th referred to fig. 2 Left St. Charles May 21st, 1804. Steered N. 15° W 1.75 miles N 52°W to the upper point of the island and camped during a rain that had been falling for half an hour, opposite this island. There are small creeks on the south side and at the head one on the left side; it’s raining heavily.
[Clark, May 21, 1804]
May 21st 1804 Monday All the forepart of the Day Arranging our party and prcureing the different articles necessary for them at this place—Dined with Mr. Ducett and Set out at half passed three oClock under three Cheers from the gentlemen on the bank and proceeded on to the head of the Island (which is Situated on the Stbd Side) 3 miles Soon after we Set out to day a hard Wind from the W. S W accompanied with a hard rain, which lasted with Short intervales all night, opposit our Camp a Small creek corns in on the Lbd Side-
May 21st, 1804, Monday. The entire morning was spent organizing our group and gathering the various supplies needed at this location. We had lunch with Mr. Ducett and left at 3:30 PM, receiving three cheers from the gentlemen on the bank as we set out. We headed toward the top of the island, which is located on the starboard side, about 3 miles away. Shortly after we departed today, a strong wind blew from the west-southwest, accompanied by heavy rain that continued with brief breaks throughout the night. Opposite our camp, a small creek comes in on the port side.
[Clark, May 22, 1804]
Tuesday May 22nd delayed a Short time for the three french men who returned and we Set out at 6 oClock a Cloudy morning rained Violently hard last night Saw Several people on the bank to day & passed Several Small farms. Capt. Lewis walk on Shore a little & passed a Camp of Kickapoo Indians, & incamped in the mouth of a Small Creek in a large Bend on the Stbd Side.
Tuesday, May 22nd, we took a short delay for the three French men who returned, and we set out at 6 o'clock on a cloudy morning. It rained heavily last night. We saw several people on the bank today and passed by several small farms. Captain Lewis walked on shore for a bit and passed a camp of Kickapoo Indians, then we camped at the mouth of a small creek in a large bend on the starboard side.
[Clark, May 22, 1804]
May 22nd Tuesday 1804 a Cloudy morning Delay one hour for 4 french men who got liberty to return to arrange Some business they had forgotten in Town, at 6 oClock we proceeded on, passed Several Small farms on the bank, and a large creek on the Lbd. Side Called Bonom a Camp of Kickapoos on the St. Side Those Indians told me Several days ago that they would Come on & hunt and by the time I got to their Camp they would have Some Provisions for us, we Camped in a Bend at the Mo. of a Small creek, Soon after we came too the Indians arrived with 4 Deer as a Present, for which we gave them two qts. of whiskey-
May 22nd, Tuesday, 1804: A cloudy morning. We delayed for an hour for four French men who got permission to return to take care of some business they had forgotten in town. At 6 o'clock, we moved on, passing several small farms along the bank and a large creek on the left side called Bonom. There was a camp of Kickapoos on the south side. Those Indians had told me several days ago that they would come and hunt, and by the time I reached their camp, they would have some provisions for us. We camped in a bend at the mouth of a small creek. Soon after we arrived, the Indians came with four deer as a gift, for which we gave them two quarts of whiskey.
This Day we passed Several Islands, and Some high lands on the Starboard Side, Verry hard water.
Today, we passed several islands and some high land on the right side, with very rough water.
[Clark, May 23, 1804]
Wednesday May 23rd 8 Indians Kick. Came to Camp with meat we recved their pesents of 3 Deer & gave them Whisky.
Wednesday, May 23rd, 8 Indians kicked. They came to camp with meat, and we received their gifts of 3 deer and gave them whiskey.
Set out early run on a log under water and Detained one hour proceeded on the Same Course of last night, (2 miles) passed the mouth of a creek on the Sbd. Side called Woman of Osage River about 30 yds. over, abounding in fish, Stoped one hour where their was maney people assembled to See us, halted at an endented part of a Rock which juted over the water, Called by the french the tavern which is a Cave 40 yds. long with the river 4 feet Deep & about 20 feet high, this is a place the Indians & french Pay omage to, many names are wrote up on the rock Mine among others, at one mile above this rock coms in a small Creek called Tavern Creek, abov one other Small Creek, camped at 6 oClock (after expirencing great dificuselty in passing Some Drifts) on the Stb Side, examined the mens arms found all in good order except the Detachment of Solds in the Perogue—R Field Killed a Deer.
We set out early, running on a log submerged in the water, and were delayed for an hour. We continued on the same path as last night (2 miles) and passed the mouth of a creek on the south side called Woman of Osage River, which was about 30 yards wide and full of fish. We stopped for an hour while many people gathered to see us, halting at a notched section of a rock that jutted over the water, known by the French as the tavern, which is a cave 40 yards long with the river being 4 feet deep and about 20 feet high. This location is one that the Indians and French pay homage to, and many names are written on the rock, including mine. A mile above this rock, a small creek called Tavern Creek flows in, and above that, there is another small creek. We camped at 6 o'clock after experiencing great difficulty in passing some driftwood, on the south side. I checked the men's arms and found them all in good order except for the detachment of soldiers in the pirogue. R. Field killed a deer.
[Clark, May 23, 1804]
May 23rd Course of last night S 75 W Contined 2 miles to the Said point St. Side passed the upper Point of the Island Thence S 52° W. 7 Miles to a pt. on St. Sd. passing Tavern Island two Small Isd. in a bend to the St. side the Mo. of Oge womans River at 1 m. the Cave Called the Tavern, Lbd Side at 5 m. Situated in the Clifts, opposit a Small Island on the Stbd Side (R. & Jo. Fields came in) with many people, passed the Tavern Cave, Capt Lewis assended the hill which has peninsulis projecting in raged points to the river, and was near falling from a Peninsulia hard water all Day Saved himself by the assistance of his Knife, passed a Creek 15 yds. wide at 1 mile called Creek of the Tavern on the Lbd. Side, Camped opposit the pt. which the Last Course was to. one man Sick.
May 23rd Course from last night S 75 W continued 2 miles to the specified point. On the St. side, we passed the upper point of the island. Then S 52° W, 7 miles to a point on the St. side, passing Tavern Island and two small islands in a bend towards the St. side, near the mouth of Oge Woman's River at 1 mile, where the cave called the Tavern is located. On the Lbd side, at 5 miles, there is a spot situated in the cliffs, opposite a small island on the Stbd side (R. & Jo. Fields came in) with many people. We passed the Tavern Cave, and Captain Lewis climbed the hill that has peninsulas extending in jagged points towards the river and nearly fell from a peninsula into the hard water. He saved himself with the help of his knife. We passed a creek 15 yards wide at 1 mile called the Creek of the Tavern on the Lbd side and camped opposite the point to which the last course was directed. One man is sick.
[Clark, May 23, 1804]
May 23rd Wednesday 1804 We Set out early ran on a Log and detained one hour, proceeded the Course of Last night 2 Miles to the mouth of a Creek on the Stbd. Side Called Osage Womans R, about 30 yds. wide, opposit a large Island and a Settlement. (on this Creek 30 or 40 famlys are Settled) Crossed to the Settlemt. and took in R & Jo. Fields who had been Sent to purchase Corn & Butter &c. many people Came to See us, we passed a large Cave on the Lbd. Side about 120 feet wide 40 feet Deep & 20 feet high many different immages are Painted on the Rock at this place. the Inds & French pay omage. many hams are wrote on the rock, Stoped about one mile above for Capt Lewis who had assended the Clifts which is at the Said Cave 300 fee high, hanging over the Water, the water excessively Swift to day, we incamped below a Small Isld. in the Meadle of the river, Sent out two hunters, one Killed a Deer
May 23rd, Wednesday, 1804 We set out early and got stuck on a log for an hour. We continued the course from last night, traveling 2 miles to the mouth of a creek on the starboard side called Osage Woman's River, which is about 30 yards wide, across from a large island and a settlement (about 30 or 40 families live along this creek). We crossed over to the settlement and picked up R & Jo Fields, who had been sent to buy corn, butter, and other supplies. Many people came to see us. We passed a large cave on the left bank, about 120 feet wide, 40 feet deep, and 20 feet high. There are many different images painted on the rocks at this location. Both the Native Americans and the French pay tribute here. Many names are inscribed on the rock. We stopped about a mile upstream for Captain Lewis, who had climbed the cliffs near the cave, rising 300 feet high and hanging over the water. The water was extremely swift today, and we camped below a small island in the middle of the river. We sent out two hunters; one of them killed a deer.
This evening we examined the arms and amunition found those mens arms in the perogue in bad order a fair evening Capt. Lewis near falling from the Pencelia of rocks 300 feet, he caught at 20 foot.
This evening we looked over the weapons and ammunition found with those men's belongings in the canoe, which were in poor condition. It was a nice evening. Captain Lewis nearly fell from the rock ledge 300 feet high but managed to grab hold at 20 feet.
[Clark, May 24, 1804]
Thursday May the 24th 1804 Set out early passed a Small Isd in the Midlle of the river, opposit the on the Lbd. Side is projecting Rock of 1/2 a mile in extent against which the Current runs, this place is called the Devils race grounds,1 above this Coms in a Small Creek called the little quiver, a Sand Island on the Stbd Side, passed Several Islands & 2 creeks, on the Stbd Side a Small Island on the Lbd Side above we wer verry near loseing our Boat in Toeing She Struck the Sands the Violence of the Current was so great that the Toe roap Broke, the Boat turned Broadside, as the Current Washed the Sand from under her She wheeled & lodged on the bank below as often as three times, before we got her in Deep water, nothing Saved her but
Thursday, May 24, 1804. We set out early and passed a small island in the middle of the river. Across from it on the left bank, there’s a projecting rock extending half a mile against which the current flows; this spot is called Devil's Race Grounds. Above this area, there’s a small creek named Little Quiver and a sand island on the starboard side. We passed several islands and two creeks. On the starboard side, there’s a small island, and on the left bank above it, we nearly lost our boat while towing. It hit the sand, and the current was so strong that the tow rope broke. The boat turned sideways, and as the current washed the sand from underneath it, it swung and lodged on the bank below three times before we finally got it into deep water. Nothing saved her but
[Clark, May 24, 1804]
May 24th Set out early, Killed a Deer last night. examined the mens arms, & Saw that all was prepared for action, passed an Island in the M. R, opposit a hard place of water called the Devill race grown, S 63° W 4 miles to a point on the Sd. Starboard Side N 68 W to a point on Lbd Side 3 ms. Passd. a Small Willow Island on the Lbd. Side to the point of a Isd. L Side—S 75° W to a point on Stbd Side 3 Miles, Passed the upper point of the Island. Crossed and in a verry bad place we got our Boat a ground & She Bocke the Toe Roap & turned the Land, the in Wheeling three times, got off returned to the head of the aforesaid Island, and Came up under a falling Bank. hard water this place being the worst I ever Saw, I call it the retregrade bend. Camped at an old house.
May 24th Set out early, killed a deer last night. Checked the men's arms and saw that everything was ready for action. Passed an island in the Mississippi River, opposite a tricky water area called Devil's Race. S 63° W for 4 miles to a point on the south bank. Then N 68° W to a point on the left bank for 3 miles. Passed a small willow island on the left bank to the point of an island on the left side—S 75° W to a point on the right bank for 3 miles. Passed the upper point of the island. Crossed and, in a really bad spot, our boat grounded and broke the tow rope and turned sideways. After wheeling three times, we got off and returned to the head of the aforementioned island, then came up under a falling bank. This place has very rough water, and it's the worst I've ever seen; I call it the Retrograde Bend. Camped at an old house.
[Clark, May 24, 1804]
May 24th Thursday 1804 Set out early passed a Verry bad part of the River Called the Deavels race ground, this is where the Current Sets against Some projecting rocks for half a mile on the Labd. Side, above this place is the mouth of a Small Creek Called queivere, passed Several Islands, two Small Creeks on the Stbd. Side, and passed between a Isld. an the Lbd. Shore a narrow pass above this Isld is a Verry bad part of the river, we attempted to pass up under the Lbd. Bank which was falling in So fast that the evident danger obliged us to Cross between the Starbd. Side and a Sand bar in the middle of the river, we hove up near the head of the Sand bar, the Sand moveing & banking caused us to run on the Sand. The Swiftness of the Current wheeled the boat, Broke our Toe rope, and was nearly over Setting the boat, all hand jumped out on the upper Side and bore on that Side untill the Sand washed from under the boat and wheeled on the next bank by the time She wheeled a 3rd Time got a rope fast to her Stern and by the means of Swimmers was Carred to Shore and when her Stern was down whilst in the act of Swinging a third time into Deep water near the Shore, we returned, to the Island where we Set out and assended under the Bank which I have just mentioned, as falling in, here George Drewyer & Willard, two of our men who left us at St. Charles to Come on by land joined us, we Camped about 1 mile above where we were So nearly being lost, on the Labd Side at a Plantation. all in Spirits. This place I call the retragrade bend as we were obliged to fall back 2 miles
May 24th, Thursday, 1804. We set out early and passed a really rough part of the river called the Devil's Race Ground. Here, the current pushes against some projecting rocks for half a mile along the land side. Above this spot is the mouth of a small creek called Queivere. We passed several islands and two small creeks on the starboard side, then navigated through a narrow pass between an island and the land shore. Above this island is a very tricky part of the river. We tried to pass along the land bank, which was eroding so quickly that we had to cross between the starboard side and a sandbar in the middle of the river. We moved close to the head of the sandbar, but the shifting sand caused us to run aground. The swift current spun the boat around, broke our tow rope, and almost capsized us. Everyone jumped out on the upper side and leaned onto that side until the sand washed out from under the boat. The boat swung to the next bank, and when it turned a third time, we managed to secure a rope to its stern. With the help of swimmers, we got it to shore. While the stern was low in the water during the third swing into deep water near the shore, we returned to the island where we started and ascended along the bank I just mentioned. Here, George Drewyer and Willard, two of our men who left us in St. Charles to come by land, rejoined us. We camped about a mile upstream from where we almost faced disaster, on the land side at a plantation. Everyone was in good spirits. I named this spot the Retrograde Bend since we had to backtrack two miles.
[Clark, May 25, 1804]
25 May Set out early Course West to a Point on Sbd. Side at 2 Miles passd a Willow Isd. in a Bend to the Lbd. a creek called wood rivr Lbd. Side N 57° W. to a pt. on the Sb. Side 3 Miles passed the Mouth of a Creek St. Side Called Le quever, this Same course continued to a Point Ld. Side 21/2 Miles further. opposit a Isd. on Sd Side Passed a Creek Called R. La freeau at the pt. N 20° W 2 miles To a Small french Village called La Charatt of five families only, in the bend to the Starbord This is the Last Settlement of Whites, an Island opposit
25 May Set out early with a course west to a point on the south bank at 2 miles. We passed a willow island in a bend to the left bank, a creek called Wood River on the left bank, bearing N 57° W to a point on the south bank. After 3 miles, we passed the mouth of a creek on the south bank called Le Quever. We continued on the same course to a point on the left bank 2.5 miles further, opposite an island on the south bank. We passed a creek called R. La Freeau at the point N 20° W, 2 miles to a small French village called La Charatt, consisting of only five families, in the bend to the starboard. This is the last settlement of white people, with an island opposite.
[Clark, May 25, 1804]
May 25th Friday 1804 rain last night river fall Several inches, Set out early psd. Several Islands passed wood River on the Lbd Side at 2 miles passed Creek on the St. Side Called La Querer at 5 miles passed a Creek at 8 mile, opsd. an Isd. on the Lbd Side, Camped at the mouth of a Creek called River a Chauritte, above a Small french Village of 7 houses and as many families, Settled at this place to be convt. to hunt, & trade with the Indians, here we met with Mr. Louisell imedeately down from the Seeeder Isld. Situated in the Countrey of the Suxex 400 Leagues up he gave us a good Deel of information Some letters he informed us that he Saw no Indians on the river below the Poncrars—Some hard rain this evening
May 25th, Friday, 1804. It rained last night, and the river has dropped several inches. We set out early. We passed several islands, and at 2 miles, we went along the wood river on the left bank. At 5 miles, we passed a creek on the right side called La Querer, and at 8 miles, we passed a creek opposite an island on the left bank. We camped at the mouth of a creek called River a Chauritte, above a small French village of 7 houses and just as many families, who settled here to hunt and trade with the Indians. We met Mr. Louisell, who had just come down from Seeders Island, located in the territory of the Suxex, 400 leagues upstream. He gave us a lot of information. He mentioned that he hadn't seen any Indians on the river below the Poncrars. There was some heavy rain this evening.
The people at this Village is pore, houses Small, they Sent us milk & eggs to eat.
The people in this village are poor, their houses are small, and they sent us milk and eggs to eat.
[Clark, May 26, 1804]
May 26th 1804. Set out at 7 oClock after a hard rain & Wind, & proceed on verry well under Sale. Wind from the E N E
May 26th, 1804. We left at 7 o'clock after a heavy rain and wind, and continued on quite well under sail. The wind came from the E N E.
The wind favourable to day we made 18 miles a Cloud rais & wind & rain Closed the Day
The wind was good today, and we traveled 18 miles. A cloud came up, and wind and rain ended the day.
[Clark, May 26, 1804]
May the 26th Sattarday 1804. Set out at 7 oClock after a heavy Shour of rain (George Drewyer & John Shields, Sent by Land with the two horses with directions to proceed on one day & hunt the next) The wind favourable from the E N E passed Beef Island and river on Lbd Side at 31/2 Ms Passed a Creek on the Lbd. Side Called Shepperds Creek, passed Several Islands to day great Deal of Deer Sign on the Bank one man out hunting, w Camped on an Island on the Starboard Side near the Southern extrem of Luter Island.
May 26th, Saturday, 1804. Started at 7 o'clock after a heavy shower of rain (George Drewyer and John Shields were sent by land with the two horses, instructed to travel one day and hunt the next). The wind was favorable from the E N E as we passed Beef Island and the river on the left side at 3.5 miles. We passed a creek on the left side called Shepherd's Creek, and several islands today. There was a lot of deer sign on the bank; one man went out hunting. We camped on an island on the right side near the southern end of Luter Island.
[Lewis, May 26, 1804]
Detatchment Orders. May 26th 1804. The Commanding Officers direct, that the three Squads under the command of Sergts. Floyd Ordway and Pryor heretofore forming two messes each, shall untill further orders constitute three messes only, the same being altered and organized as follows (viz)
Detachment Orders. May 26th, 1804. The Commanding Officers direct that the three squads led by Sergeants Floyd, Ordway, and Pryor, which were previously organized into two messes, shall until further notice be restructured to form three messes only, organized as follows (viz):
1 Sergt. Charles Floyd. (1)
Privates:
2 Hugh McNeal
3 Patric Gass
4 Reubin Fields (2)
5 John B Thompson
+ 6 John Newman
7 Richard Winsor
+ Francis Rivet &
8 Joseph Fields (3)
1 Sgt. Charles Floyd. (1)
Privates:
2 Hugh McNeal
3 Patric Gass
4 Reubin Fields (2)
5 John B Thompson
+ 6 John Newman
7 Richard Winsor
+ Francis Rivet &
8 Joseph Fields (3)
9 Sergt. John Ordway.
Privates.
10 William Bratton (4)
11 John Colter (5)
X 12 Moses B. Reed
13 Alexander Willard
14 William Warner
15 Silas Goodrich
16 John Potts &
17 Hugh Hall
18 Sergt. Nathaniel Pryor. (6)
Privates.
19 George Gibson (7)
20 George Shannon (8)
21 John Shields (9)
22 John Collins
23 Joseph Whitehouse
24 Peter Wiser
F 25 Peter Crusat &
F 26 Francis Labuche
9 Sgt. John Ordway.
Privates.
10 William Bratton (4)
11 John Colter (5)
X 12 Moses B. Reed
13 Alexander Willard
14 William Warner
15 Silas Goodrich
16 John Potts &
17 Hugh Hall
18 Sgt. Nathaniel Pryor. (6)
Privates.
19 George Gibson (7)
20 George Shannon (8)
21 John Shields (9)
22 John Collins
23 Joseph Whitehouse
24 Peter Wiser
F 25 Peter Crusat &
F 26 Francis LabucheThe commanding officers further direct that the remainder of the detatchmen shall form two messes; and that the same be constituded as follows. (viz)
The commanding officers also instruct that the rest of the detachment should split into two groups for meals, and that these groups will be organized as follows: (viz)
Patroon, Baptist Dechamps
Engages
Etienne Mabbauf
Paul Primaut
Charles Hébert
Baptist La Jeunesse
Peter Pinaut
Peter Roi &
Joseph Collin
1 Corpl. Richard Warvington.
Privates.
2 Robert Frasier
3 John Boleye
4 John Dame
5 Ebinezer Tuttle &
6 Isaac White
Patroon, Baptist Dechamps
Engages
Etienne Mabbauf
Paul Primaut
Charles Hébert
Baptist La Jeunesse
Peter Pinaut
Peter Roi &
Joseph Collin
1 Corp. Richard Warvington.
Privates.
2 Robert Frasier
3 John Boleye
4 John Dame
5 Ebenezer Tuttle &
6 Isaac WhiteThe Commanding officers further direct that the messes of Sergts. Floyd, Ordway and Pryor shall untill further orders form the crew of the Batteaux; the Mess of the Patroon La Jeunesse will form the permanent crew of the red Perogue; Corpl. Warvington's mess forming that of the white perogue.
The commanding officers further instruct that the messes of Sergeants Floyd, Ordway, and Pryor shall remain as the crew of the Batteaux until further notice; the mess of Patroon La Jeunesse will make up the permanent crew of the red Perogue, while Corporal Warvington's mess will be assigned to the white Perogue.
Whenever by any casualty it becomes necessary to furnish additional men to assist in navigating the Perogues, the same shall be furnished by daily detale from the Privates who form the crew of Batteaux, exempting only from such detale, Thomas P. Howard and the men who are assigned to the two bow and the two stern oars.—For the present one man will be furnished daily to assist the crew of the white perogue; this man must be an expert boatman.
Whenever it becomes necessary to provide extra crew members to help navigate the Perogues due to any situation, the additional men will be supplied daily from the Privates who are part of the Batteaux crew, with the exception of Thomas P. Howard and the men assigned to the two front oars and the two back oars. For now, one person will be provided each day to assist the crew of the white perogue; this person must be an experienced boatman.
The posts and duties of the Sergts. shall be as follows (viz)—when the Batteaux is under way, one Sergt. shall be stationed at the helm, one in the center on the rear of the Starboard locker, and one at the bow. The Sergt. at the helm, shall steer the boat, and see that the baggage on the quarterdeck is properly arranged and stowed away in the most advantageous manner; to see that no cooking utensels or loos lumber of any kind is left on the deck to obstruct the passage between the burths—he will also attend to the compas when necessary.
The posts and duties of the Sergeants will be as follows: when the boat is underway, one Sergeant will be stationed at the helm, one in the center at the back of the starboard locker, and one at the bow. The Sergeant at the helm will steer the boat and ensure that the baggage on the quarterdeck is properly arranged and stored away in the best way possible. They will also make sure that no cooking utensils or loose lumber of any kind is left on the deck to block the pathway between the berths, and they will attend to the compass when needed.
The Sergt at the center will command the guard, manage the sails, see that the men at the oars do their duty; that they come on board at a proper season in the morning, and that the boat gets under way in due time; he will keep a good lookout for the mouths of all rivers, creeks, Islands and other remarkable places and shall immediately report the same to the commanding officers; he will attend to the issues of sperituous liquors; he shall regulate the halting of the batteaux through the day to give the men refreshment, and will also regulate the time of her departure taking care that not more time than is necessary shall be expended at each halt—it shall be his duty also to post a centinel on the bank, near the boat whenever we come too and halt in the course of the day, at the same time he will (acompanied by two his guard) reconnoiter the forrest arround the place of landing to the distance of at least one hundred paces. when we come too for the purpose of encamping at night, the Sergt. of the guard shall post two centinels immediately on our landing; one of whom shal be posted near the boat, and the other at a convenient distance in rear of the encampment; at night the Sergt. must be always present with his guard, and he is positively forbidden to suffer any man of his guard to absent himself on any pretext whatever; he will at each relief through the night, accompanyed by the two men last off their posts, reconnoiter in every direction around the camp to the distance of at least one hundred and fifty paces, and also examine the situation of the boat and perogues, and see that they ly safe and free from the bank
The sergeant in charge will lead the guard, manage the sails, ensure that the rowers do their jobs, that they come on board at the right time in the morning, and that the boat sets off on time. He will keep a lookout for the mouths of all rivers, creeks, islands, and other notable places and will immediately report these to the commanding officers. He will oversee the distribution of alcoholic beverages; he will control the stops of the boats during the day to give the men a chance to rest, as well as manage the timing of departures, making sure not to waste more time than necessary at each stop. It’s also his responsibility to post a sentinel on the bank near the boat whenever we stop during the day, while he will, accompanied by two members of his guard, scout the forest around the landing area for at least one hundred paces. When we stop for the night to set up camp, the sergeant of the guard must post two sentinels right after landing; one will be near the boat, and the other a reasonable distance behind the camp. At night, the sergeant must always be with his guard, and he is strictly forbidden to allow any member of his guard to leave his post for any reason. At each change of guard during the night, he will, accompanied by the last two men off their posts, scout around the camp for at least one hundred and fifty paces, check the position of the boat and canoes, and ensure they are safe and secured away from the bank.
It shall be the duty of the sergt. at the bow, to keep a good look out for all danger which may approach, either of the enimy, or obstructions which may present themselves to passage of the boat; of the first he will notify the Sergt. at the center, who will communicate the information to the commanding officers, and of the second or obstructions to the boat he will notify the Sergt. at the helm; he will also report to the commanding officers through the Sergt. at the center all perogues boats canoes or other craft which he may discover in the river, and all hunting camps or parties of Indians in view of which we may pass. he will at all times be provided with a seting pole and assist the bowsman in poling and managing the bow of the boat. it will be his duty also to give and answer all signals, which may hereafter be established for the government of the perogues and parties on shore.
It’s the duty of the sergeant at the bow to stay alert for any dangers that may approach, whether from enemies or obstacles that could block the boat's passage. For any threats, he will inform the sergeant at the center, who will relay the information to the commanding officers. For any obstacles, he will notify the sergeant at the helm. He will also report to the commanding officers through the sergeant at the center about any canoes, boats, or other crafts he sees in the river, as well as any hunting camps or groups of Native Americans we might encounter. He should always have a setting pole and assist the bowman in maneuvering and managing the bow of the boat. Additionally, he will be responsible for giving and responding to any signals that may be established for the operation of the canoes and parties on shore.
The Sergts. will on each morning before our departure relieve each other in the following manner—The Sergt. at the helm will parade the new guard, relieve the Sergt. and the old guard, and occupy the middle station in the boat; the Sergt. of the old guard will occupy the station at the bow, and the Sergt. who had been stationed the preceeding day at the bow will place himself at the helm.—The sergts. in addition to those duties are directed each to keep a seperate journal from day today of all passing occurences, and such other observations on the country &c. as shall appear to them worthy of notice
The sergeants will take turns each morning before we leave in the following way—The sergeant at the helm will assemble the new guard, relieve the sergeant and the old guard, and take the middle position in the boat; the sergeant of the old guard will take the position at the front, and the sergeant who was stationed at the front the previous day will move to the helm. In addition to these tasks, each sergeant is instructed to keep a separate journal from day to day noting all the events that occur and any other observations about the country, etc., that they think are worth mentioning.
The Sergts. are relieved and exempt from all labour of making fires, pitching tents or cooking, and will direct and make the men of their several messes perform an equal propotion of those duties.
The sergeants are relieved and exempt from all work related to starting fires, setting up tents, or cooking, and will oversee and ensure that the members of their respective messes share those duties equally.
The guard shall hereafter consist of one sergeant and six privates & engages.
The guard will now consist of one sergeant and six privates and recruits.
Patroon, Dechamp, Copl. Warvington, and George Drewyer, are exempt from guad duty; the two former will attend particularly to their perogues at all times, and see that their lading is in good order, and that the same is kept perfectly free from rain or other moisture; the latter will perform certain duties on shore which will be assigned him from time to time. all other soldiers and engaged men of whatever discription must perform their regular tour of guad duty.
Patroon, Dechamp, Copl. Warvington, and George Drewyer are exempt from guard duty; the first two will always keep an eye on their perogues and make sure that their cargo is in good condition and kept completely dry from rain or any other moisture; the latter will carry out certain duties onshore that will be assigned to him as needed. All other soldiers and workers of any kind must complete their regular shift of guard duty.
All detales for guard or other duty will be made in the evening when we encamp, and the duty to be performed will be entered on, by the individuals so warned, the next morning.—provision for one day will be issued to the party on each evening after we have encamped; the same will be cooked on that evening by the several messes, and a proportion of it reserved for the next day as no cooking will be allowed in the day while on the mach
All details for guard or other duties will be sorted out in the evening when we set up camp, and the individuals assigned to those duties will be notified the next morning. Provisions for one day will be issued to the group every evening after we’ve set up camp; the different messes will cook the food that evening and set aside some for the next day since no cooking will be allowed during the day while we’re on the march.
Sergt. John Ordway will continue to issue the provisions and make the detales for guard or other duty.—The day after tomorrow lyed corn and grece will be issued to the party, the next day Poark and flour, and the day following indian meal and poark; and in conformity to that ratiene provisions will continue to be issued to the party untill further orders.—should any of the messes prefer indian meal to flour they may recieve it accordingly—no poark is to be issued when we have fresh meat on hand.
Sgt. John Ordway will keep distributing the supplies and arranging for guard duty or other tasks. The day after tomorrow, canned corn and grease will be given to the group, followed by pork and flour the next day, and then cornmeal and pork the day after that. Supplies will keep being distributed to the group according to this schedule until further notice. If any of the messes would rather have cornmeal instead of flour, they can receive it as requested. No pork will be given out when we have fresh meat available.
Labuche and Crusat will man the larboard bow oar alternately, and the one not engaged at the oar will attend as the Bows-man, and when the attention of both these persons is necessary at the bow, their oar is to be maned by any idle hand on board.
Labuche and Crusat will take turns rowing the left side bow oar, and the one not rowing will act as the Bowman. If both of them are needed at the bow, any available crew member on board will take over their oar.
Meriwether Lewis Capt. Wm. Clark Cpt.
Meriwether Lewis Capt. Wm. Clark Cpt.
[Clark, May 27, 1804]
Sunday May 27th as we were Setting out this morning two Canoos loaded with Bever elk Deer Skins & Buffalow Robes, from the Mahars nation, they inform that they left that place 2 months, a gentle Breese from the S. E, we camped on an Isd in the mouth of Gasconade R, this river is 157 yards wide a butifull stream of clear water. 19 foot Deep Hills on the lower Side
Sunday, May 27th, as we were setting out this morning, two canoes loaded with beaver, elk, deer skins, and buffalo robes from the Mahars nation arrived. They informed us that they had left that place two months ago. A gentle breeze was coming from the southeast. We camped on an island at the mouth of the Gasconade River. This river is 157 yards wide—a beautiful stream of clear water, 19 feet deep, with hills on the lower side.
[Clark, May 27, 1804]
May 27th Sunday 1804 as we were pushing off this Morning two Canoos Loaded with fur &c. Came to from the Mahars nation, which place they had left two months, at about 10 oClock 4 Cajaux or rafts loaded with furs and peltres came too one from the Paunees, the other from Grand Osage, they informed nothing of Consequence, passed a Creek on the Lbd Side Called ash Creek 20 yds wide, passed the upper point of a large Island on the Stbd Side back of which Comes in three Creeks one Called Orter Creek, her the men we left hunting Came in we camped on a Willow Island in the mouth of Gasconnade River. George Shannon Killed a Deer this evening
May 27th, Sunday, 1804. As we were pushing off this morning, two canoes loaded with furs and other goods arrived from the Mahars nation, which they had left two months ago. At about 10 o'clock, four rafts packed with furs and pelts came by—one from the Paunees and the other from Grand Osage. They didn’t have any significant news. We passed a creek on the left side called Ash Creek, which is 20 yards wide, and went by the upper point of a large island on the right side, behind which three creeks come in, one of them called Orter Creek. The men we left hunting also arrived. We camped on a willow island at the mouth of the Gasconnade River. George Shannon shot a deer this evening.
[Clark, May 28, 1804]
Monday 28th May rained hard all the last night Some wind from the S W, one Deer Killed to day, one Man fell in with Six Indians hunting, onloaded the perogue, & found Several articles Wet, Some Tobacco Spoiled. river begin to rise
Monday 28th May rained hard all last night. Some wind from the SW. One deer was killed today; one man ran into six Indians while hunting, unloaded the canoe, and found several items wet, some tobacco spoiled. The river is starting to rise.
[Clark, May 28, 1804]
May 28th Munday 1804 Gasconnade Rained hard all last night Some thunder & lightening hard wind in the forepart of the night from the S W. Ruben Fields Killed a Deer Several hunter out to day I measured the river found the Gasconnade to be 157 yds. wide and 19 foot Deep the Course of this R. is S 29° W, one of the hunters fell in with 6 Inds. hunting, onloaded the large Perogue on board of which was 8 french hands found many things wet by their cearlenessness, put all the articles which was wet out to Dry—this day So Cloudy that no observations could be taken, the river begin to rise, examine the mens arms and equapage, all in Order
May 28th, Monday, 1804 Gasconnade It rained heavily all night. There were some thunder and lightning with strong winds earlier in the night from the southwest. Ruben Fields killed a deer; several hunters were out today. I measured the river and found the Gasconnade to be 157 yards wide and 19 feet deep. The course of the river is S 29° W. One of the hunters encountered 6 Indians who were hunting. We loaded the large pirogue, which had 8 French crew members on board. Many items got wet because of their carelessness, so we laid out everything that was damp to dry. It was so cloudy today that no observations could be taken. The river is beginning to rise. I checked the men's arms and gear; everything is in order.
[Clark, May 29, 1804]
Tuesday 29th May Sent out hunters, got a morning obsvtn and one at 12 oClock, rained last night, the river rises fast The Musquetors are verry bad, Load the pierogue
Tuesday 29th May Sent out hunters, received a morning observation and one at 12 o'clock. It rained last night, and the river is rising quickly. The mosquitoes are really bad. Load the pirogue.
[Clark, May 29, 1804]
May 29th 1804 Set out from the mouth of the gasconnade, where we took obsevn &c. left a Perogue for a man lost in the woods, Course N. 54 W 2 m to a point Lb. Side. Passed the Isd. on which we Camped, river still rised, water verry muddey N. 78° W 2 Ms. to a pt. on Lb Side passed two willow Islands first Smaller and a Creek on Lbd. called Deer Creek one oposit the point St. Side and incamped on the Lb Side rain all night the tents together along the N; 76 W 25 Poles S 26 W, to the point above—S 19° to the pot below the River
May 29th, 1804. We left the mouth of the gasconnade, where we took observations, and left a canoe for a man lost in the woods. We headed N. 54 W for 2 miles to a point on the left bank. We passed the island where we camped; the river continued to rise, and the water was very muddy. We traveled N. 78° W for 2 miles to a point on the left bank and passed two willow islands; the first was smaller, and a creek on the left bank called Deer Creek was opposite the point on the south bank. We set up camp on the left bank as it rained all night. The tents were arranged together along N; 76 W, 25 poles S 26 W to the point above—S 19° to the point below the river.
[Clark, May 29, 1804]
May 29th Tuesday rained last night, Cloudy morning 4 hunters Sent out with Orders to return at 12 oClock Took equal altitudes of Suns Lower limb found it 105° 31' 45"
May 29th, Tuesday: It rained last night, and it's a cloudy morning. Four hunters were sent out with orders to return by 12 o'clock. They took equal altitudes of the sun’s lower limb and found it to be 105° 31' 45".
Cap Lewis observed meridean altitude of sun U L-back observation with the octant & artificeal horozen—gave for altitude on the Limb 38° 44' 00" sun octant Error 2 0 0 +
Cap Lewis noted the meridian altitude of the sun using an octant and an artificial horizon—registered an altitude on the limb of 38° 44' 00" with an octant error of 2 0 0 +
had the Perogues loaded and all perpared to Set out at 4 oClock after finishing the observations & all things necessary found that one of the hunters had not returned, we deturmined to proceed on & leave one perogue to wate for him, accordingly at half past four we Set out and came on 4 miles & camped on the Lbd Side above a Small Creek Called Deer Creek, Soon after we came too we heard Several guns fire down the river, we answered them by a Discharge of a Swivile on the Bow
We had the canoes loaded and all set to head out at 4 o'clock after finishing the observations and everything else we needed. We found that one of the hunters hadn't returned, so we decided to move on and leave one canoe waiting for him. At half past four, we set out and traveled 4 miles, camping on the left bank above a small creek called Deer Creek. Soon after we arrived, we heard several gunshots down the river, and we responded with a shot from a swivel gun at the bow.
[Clark, May 30, 1804]
May 30th, Wednesday, Set out at 7 oClock after a heavy rain, rained all last night, a little after Dark last night Several guns were herd below, I expect the French men fireing for Whitehous who was lost in the woods.
May 30th, Wednesday, Left at 7 o'clock after it had rained heavily. It rained all night long. A little after dark last night, I heard several gunshots below. I think the French are firing for Whitehouse, who got lost in the woods.
[Clark, May 30, 1804]
May 30th Wednesday 1804 Rained all last night Set out at 6 oClock after a heavy Shower, and proceeded on, passed a large Island a Creek opposit on the St. Side just abov a Cave Called Monbrun Tavern & River, passed a Creek on the Lbd. Side Call Rush Creek at 4 Miles Several Showers of rain the Current Verry Swift river riseing fast Passed Big Miry River at 11 Miles on the Starboard Side, at the lower point of a Island, this River is about 50 yards Wide, Camped at the mouth of a Creek on Lbd Sd of abt 25 yds. Wide Called Grinestone Creek, opposit the head of a Isd. and the mouth of Little Miry River on the St Side, a heavy wind accompanied with rain & hail we Made 14 miles to day, the river Continue to rise, the County on each Side appear full of Water.
May 30th, Wednesday, 1804. It rained all night. We set out at 6 o'clock after a heavy shower and continued on, passing a large island and a creek on the south side, just above a cave called Monbrun Tavern & River. We passed a creek on the left bank called Rush Creek at 4 miles. There were several rain showers, and the current was very swift with the river rising fast. We passed Big Miry River at 11 miles on the right side, at the lower point of an island. This river is about 50 yards wide. We camped at the mouth of a creek on the left bank, about 25 yards wide, called Grinestone Creek, opposite the head of an island and the mouth of Little Miry River on the south side. A heavy wind accompanied by rain and hail hit us. We made 14 miles today; the river continues to rise, and the land on each side appears to be full of water.
[Clark, May 31, 1804]
May 31st Thursday 1804 rained the greater part of last night, the wind from the West raised and blew with great force untile 5 oClock p.m.which obliged us to lay by a Cajaux of Bear Skins and pelteries came down from the Grand Osarge, one french man one Indian, and a Squar, they had letters from the man Mr. Choteau Sent to that part of the Osarge Nation Settled on Arkansa River mentioning that his letter was Commited to the flaims, the Inds. not believeing that the Americans had possession of the Countrey they disregarded St Louis & their Supplies &c.—Several rats of Considerable Size was Cought in the woods to day—Capt Lewis went out to the woods & found many curious Plants & Srubs, one Deer killed this evening
May 31st, Thursday, 1804. It rained most of the night, and the wind from the west blew hard until 5 PM, which forced us to hold back a load of bear skins and pelts that came down from the Grand Osage. There was one Frenchman, one Indian, and a woman with them; they had letters from the man Mr. Choteau sent to that part of the Osage Nation settled on the Arkansas River, mentioning that his letter was committed to the flames. The Indians didn't believe that the Americans had taken possession of the country, and they disregarded St. Louis and their supplies, etc. Several large rats were caught in the woods today. Captain Lewis went out into the woods and found many interesting plants and shrubs; one deer was killed this evening.
[Clark, June 1, 1804]
June 1st Friday 1804 Set out early, the Same Course S 48° W of Wednesday contd. 4 ms passed the Mouth of Little Miry on the Stb & high rich Land on the Lb Side, S. 45°W to an Island opposit a hill on the S. Sd. 6 Ms. this Isd is on the Lbd. passed the Mo. of Bear creek 25 yds wide at 2 ms. & three Small Isd., Some Swift water and banks falling in, Wind a head from the West, S 39° W 3 ms. to the Pt. above the mouth of Osage River Larb Side, Camped fell a number of Trees in the Point to take observation a fair after noon, Sit up untill 1 oClock to take Som observations &c.
June 1st, Friday, 1804 Set out early, following the same route of S 48° W as on Wednesday. Continued for 4 miles, passing the mouth of Little Miry on the starboard side and high, fertile land on the port side, S 45° W to an island opposite a hill on the south side, 6 miles. This island is on the left bank. Passed the mouth of Bear Creek, which is 25 yards wide, after 2 miles, along with three small islands, some fast water, and banks eroding. The wind was coming from the west. Continued S 39° W for 3 miles to the point above the mouth of Osage River on the left bank. Camped and fell a number of trees at the point to take observations in the afternoon. Stayed up until 1 o'clock to take some observations, etc.
[Clark, June 1, 1804]
June 1st 1804 Friday Set out early a fair morning Passed the mouth Bear Creek 25 yds. Wide at 6 Miles, Several Small Islands in the river the wind a head from the West the Current exceedingly rapid Came to on the point of the Osarges River on the Labd Side of Missouries this osages river Verry high, felled all the Trees in the point to Make observations Sit up untill 12 oClock taken oservation this night
June 1st, 1804, Friday Set out early on a pleasant morning. Passed the mouth of Bear Creek, which is 25 yards wide, after 6 miles. There were several small islands in the river, and the wind was coming from the west. The current was extremely fast. We stopped at the point of the Osage River on the left side of the Missouri. This Osage River was very high, and we felled all the trees at the point to make observations. Stayed up until 12 o'clock taking observations that night.
[Clark, June 2, 1804]
June 2nd—Took the Dirts. of Son & moon &c &c. I measured the Osage & Missouris at this place made ther width as follows, the Missoure 875 yd. wide The Osage R 397 yds. wide, the distance between the 2 rivers 80 poles up is 40 Ps. Took equal altitudes & Mredian altitude also-and made them ____ I assended the hill in the point 80 ps. from the pt. found it about 100 foot high, on the top is 2 graves, or mouns, a Delightfull prospect from this hill which Comds. both rivers
June 2nd—Took the Dirts. of Son & moon & etc. I measured the Osage and Missouri at this location, finding their widths to be as follows: the Missouri is 875 yards wide, and the Osage River is 397 yards wide. The distance between the two rivers is 80 poles, which is 40 paces. I took equal altitudes and measured the median altitude as well—and recorded them ____. I climbed the hill located 80 paces from the point and found it to be about 100 feet high. On the top, there are two graves or mounds. There’s a beautiful view from this hill that overlooks both rivers.
Drewyer & Shields came to the opposit Side to day at SunSet we sent across & brought them over, they had been absent 7 Days Swam many creeks, much worsted. They informed us that the Countrey on both Sides of muddy river's to the hill called by the french ____ 3 ms. below this place, a Small Praries below the hill, 4 Deer Killed to day I assend a hill &. after measuring the river &c. &c. &c.
Drewyer and Shields arrived on the other side today at sunset. We sent a boat across and brought them over; they had been gone for seven days, swimming through many creeks and having a tough time. They told us that the land on both sides of the muddy river, near the hill the French call ____, is about three miles below here, with a small prairie below the hill. We killed four deer today. I climbed a hill and measured the river, etc., etc., etc.
[Clark, June 2, 1804]
June 2nd Satturday Cap Lewis Took the Time & Distance of suns & moons nearest limbs, the Sun East—and Meridean altitude of Suns U. L. with Octant, back observation gave for altitude 37° 28"00".
June 2nd, Saturday Cap Lewis recorded the time and distance of the nearest limbs of the sun and moon, taking the sun's position in the east and measuring the meridian altitude of the sun's upper limb with an octant. A back observation indicated an altitude of 37° 28' 00".
Error of Octant 2° 00' 00" +. made Several other observations—I made an angle for the Wedth of the two rivers. The Missourie from the Point to the N. Side is 875 yards wide the Osage River from the point to the S. E Side is 397 yards wide, the destance between the two rivers at the pt. of high Land (ioo foot above the bottom) and 80 poles up the Missouries from the point is 40 poles, on the top of this high land under which is a limestone rock two Mouns or graves are raised—from this pt. which Comds both rivers I had a delightful) prospect of the Missouries up & down, also the Osage R. up. George Drewyer & John Shields who we had Sent with the horses by Land on the N Side joined us this evening much worsted, they being absent Seven Days depending on their gun, the greater part of the time rain, they were obliged to raft or Swim many Creeks, those men gave a flattering account of the Countrey Commencing below the first hill on the N Side and extendg Parrelal with the river for 30 or 40 Ms. The Two Muddey river passing Thro & som fine Springs & Streams our hunters kill Several Deer to day, Some Small licks on the S E of the Osage River.
Error of Octant 2° 00' 00" +. I made several other observations—I measured the width of the two rivers. The Missouri River from the point to the north side is 875 yards wide, while the Osage River from the point to the southeast side is 397 yards wide. The distance between the two rivers at the point of high land (100 feet above the bottom) and 80 poles up the Missouri from the point is 40 poles. On top of this high land, under which is limestone rock, there are two mounds or graves. From this point, which overlooks both rivers, I had a wonderful view of the Missouri River both upstream and downstream, as well as upstream on the Osage River. George Drewyer and John Shields, whom we sent with the horses by land on the north side, joined us this evening, looking quite worn out. They had been gone for seven days and relying on their guns, mostly in the rain, they had to float or swim across many creeks. These men spoke highly of the area starting below the first hill on the north side and extending parallel with the river for 30 or 40 miles. The two muddy rivers run through it and there are some nice springs and streams. Our hunters killed several deer today, and there are some small salt licks on the southeast side of the Osage River.
[Clark, June 3, 1804]
June Sunday 3rd 1804 the fore part of the day fair I attempted to take equal alltitudes, & M Altitudes, but was disapointed, the Clouds obsured the Sun, took the D. of sun & moon Capt Lewis & George Drewyer went out & Killed a Deer, We Set out at 5 oClock P M Cloudy & rain, West 5 Ms. to the mo. of Murrow Creek Lb Sd. a pt. St. Side Keeping along the Lbd Side 1 Ms., passed the mouth of a Creek on Lbd Side 3 ms., I call Cupboard, Creek, mouths behind a rock which projects into the river, Camped in the mouth of the Creek aforesaid, at the mouth of this Creek I saw much fresh Signs of Indians, haveing Crossed 2 Deer Killed to day. I have a verry Sore Throat, & am Tormented with Musquetors & Small ticks.
June Sunday, 3rd, 1804. The first part of the day was nice, but I tried to take equal altitudes and M altitudes and was disappointed because the clouds obscured the sun. I took the direction of the sun and moon. Captain Lewis and George Drewyer went out and killed a deer. We set out at 5 o'clock PM; it was cloudy and raining. We traveled west for 5 miles to the mouth of Murrow Creek, left bank side, a point. We kept along the left bank side for 1 mile, passed the mouth of a creek on the left bank side after 3 miles. I named it Cupboard Creek; its mouth is behind a rock that juts into the river. We camped at the mouth of this creek. There were many fresh signs of Indians here, having crossed two deer killed today. I have a very sore throat and I'm tormented by mosquitoes and small ticks.
[Clark, June 3, 1804]
June 3rd Sunday 1804 The forepart of the day fair Took meridional altitude of suns U:L with the Octant and Glass Horrison adjusted back observation. the instrument gave 38° 2' 00"—it was Cloudy and the Suns disk much obsured, and Cannot be Depended on.
June 3rd Sunday 1804 The first part of the day was clear. I took the meridional altitude of the sun using the octant and adjusted the back observation. The instrument showed 38° 2' 00"—it was cloudy, and the sun's disk was heavily obscured, so the reading can't be relied on.
We made other Observations in the evening after the return of Capt Lewis from a walk of three or four ms. round—We Set out at 5 oClock P.M. proceeded on five miles to the mouth of a Creek on the L. S. 20 yds. wide Called Murow, passed a Creek at 3 ms. which I call Cupbord Creek as it Mouths above a rock of that appearance. Several Deer Killed to dayat the mouth of the Murow Creek I Saw much Sign of war parties of Inds. haveing Crossed from the mouth of this Creek. I have a bad Cold with a Sore throat. Near West 5 Miles
We made more observations in the evening after Captain Lewis returned from a walk of about three or four miles. We set out at 5 PM and went five miles to the mouth of a creek on the left side, 20 yards wide, called Murow. We passed another creek three miles in, which I named Cupboard Creek because its mouth looks like a cupboard. Several deer were killed today at the mouth of Murow Creek. I noticed many signs that war parties of Native Americans had crossed from this creek. I have a bad cold with a sore throat. Near west, five miles.
[Clark, June 4, 1804]
June 4th 1804 Monday, a fair Day Sent out 3 hunters, our mast broke by the boat running under a tree Passed an Islands on Stbd Side on which grow Seeder a Creek at ____ miles on the Starbd Sd. Course N. 30° W 4 ms. to pt. on St. Side below 2d Isd. passed a Creek on Lbd Side 15 yd. wide, I call Nightingale Creek. this Bird Sang all last night and is the first of the kind I ever herd, below this Creek and the last Passed a Small Isd on the Stbd. N. 25 W. 3 ms. to a pt. on St. Sd. passed a Sm. Isd. on St. Sd. and Seeder Creek on the Same Side 20 yds wide passed a Creek on Lbd Sd. 20 yd wide, I call Mast Creek, this is a Short Creek, fine land above & below the mouth. Jentle rise of about 50 foot, Delightfull Timber of Oake ash walnut hickory &c. &c. wind from N W. by W. N. 58° W. 71/2 ms. passed a Creek Called Zoncar on the Lbd Side, N 75 W 3 me. to a pt, S. Sd. called Batue a De charm, a plain on the hill opposit. I got out & walked on the L Sd. thro a Charming Bottom of rich Land about one mile then I assended a hill of about 170 foot on the top of which is a Moun and about 100 acres of Land of Dead timber on this hill one of the party says he has found Lead ore a verry extensive Cave under this hill next the river, the Land on the top is fine, This is a very bad part of the river Seven Deer Killed to day by our hunters—one of the horses is Snaged, the other lost his Shous to day the Bottom on the St. Side to day is covered with rushes, not verry good ____ the high land Comes to the bank on the Labd Side and good 2d rate land.
June 4th, 1804, Monday, a nice day. Sent out 3 hunters; our mast broke because the boat ran under a tree. Passed some islands on the starboard side with cedar trees. We traveled a creek at ____ miles on the starboard side, heading N. 30° W for 4 miles to a point on the starboard side below the second island. We passed a creek on the port side that was 15 yards wide, which I named Nightingale Creek. This bird sang all last night, and it's the first of its kind I've ever heard. Below this creek and the last, we passed a small island on the starboard side, heading N. 25° W for 3 miles to a point on the starboard side, where we passed another small island and Cedar Creek on the same side, which was 20 yards wide. We also passed a creek on the port side that was 20 yards wide, which I named Mast Creek. This is a short creek, with excellent land above and below the mouth, gently rising about 50 feet. There's delightful timber like oak, ash, walnut, hickory, etc. The wind is from N.W. by W. N. 58° W, traveling 7.5 miles. We passed a creek called Zoncar on the port side, heading N. 75° W for 3 miles to a point on the south side called Batue a De charm, a plain on the hill opposite. I got out and walked on the left side through a charming area of rich land for about a mile, then I ascended a hill about 170 feet tall. At the top, there's a mound and about 100 acres of dead timber. One of the party says he found lead ore and a really extensive cave under this hill next to the river. The land on top is nice. This part of the river is quite bad. Seven deer were killed today by our hunters—one of the horses got snagged, and the other lost its shoe today. The bottom on the starboard side today is covered with rushes, not very good. The highland comes to the bank on the port side, which has decent land.
[Clark, June 4, 1804]
June 4th Monday 1804 a fair day three men out on the right flank passed a large Island on the St. Side Called Seeder Island, this Isd. has a great Deel of Ceedar on it, passed a Small Creek at 1 ms. 15 yd. Wide which we named Nightingale Creek from a Bird of that discription which Sang for us all last night, and is the first of the Kind I ever heard. passed the mouth of Seeder Creek at 7 ms. on the S. S. abt. 20 yds. Wide above Some Small Isds. passed a Creek on the L. S. abt. 15 yds. wide. Mast Creek, here the Sergt. at the helm run under a bending Tree & broke the mast, Some delightful) Land, with a jentle assent about the Creek, well timbered, Oake, Ash, walnut &c. &c. passed, wind N W. by W. passed a Small Creek Called Zan Can C on the L. S; at this last point I got out and walked on the L. Sd. thro a rush bottom for 1 Miles & a Short Distance thro Nettles as high as my brest assended a hill of about 170 foot to a place where the french report that Lead ore has been found, I saw no mineral of that description, Capt Lewis Camped imediately under this hill, to wate which gave me Some time to examine the hill, on the top is a moun of about 6 foot high and about 100 Acres of land which the large timber is Dead in Decending about 50 foot a projecting lime Stone rock under which is a Cave at one place in this projecting rocks I went on one which Spured up and hung over the Water from the top of this rock I had a prospect of the river for 20 or 30 ms. up, from the Cave which incumposed the hill I decended by a Steep decent to the foot, a verry bad part of the river opposit this hill, the river Continu to fall Slowly, our hunters killed 7 Deer to day The land our hunters passed thro to day on the S. S. was Verry fine the latter part of to day. the high land on the S. S. is about 2d rate
June 4th, Monday, 1804: It was a nice day. Three men on the right flank passed a large island on the south side called Cedar Island. This island has a lot of cedar trees on it. We passed a small creek that was 1 mile 15 yards wide, which we named Nightingale Creek, after a bird of that kind that sang for us all last night—it's the first of its kind I've ever heard. We passed the mouth of Cedar Creek at 7 miles on the south side, which is about 20 yards wide, above some small islands. We went past a creek on the left side that is about 15 yards wide. At Mast Creek, the sergeant at the helm went under a bending tree and broke the mast. There was some beautiful land with a gentle slope around the creek, well-timbered with oak, ash, walnut, etc. We passed, with the wind coming from the northwest by west. We went by a small creek called Zancan Creek on the left side. At this last point, I got out and walked along the left side through a rush bottom for 1 mile, and a short distance through nettles as tall as my waist. I climbed a hill about 170 feet high to a spot where the French say lead ore has been found. I didn't see any minerals of that kind. Captain Lewis camped right under this hill to wait, which gave me some time to look around. At the top, there's a mound about 6 feet high and around 100 acres of land where the large timber is dead. Descending about 50 feet, there’s a projecting limestone rock with a cave underneath it. At one spot on this rock, I went out, and it jutted out over the water. From the top of this rock, I could see the river for 20 or 30 miles upstream. From the cave that surrounded the hill, I descended steeply to the bottom, which is a very dangerous part of the river opposite this hill. The river continues to fall slowly. Our hunters killed 7 deer today. The land our hunters went through today on the south side was very nice. The high land on the south side is about second-rate.
[Clark, June 5, 1804]
June 5th Tuesday, Jurked the Vennison Killed yesterday, after Seting over the Scouting Party or hunder of 3 men Set out at 6 oClock Course N 57° W to a pt. on S. Sd. 5 ms. passed a Creek on L. Sd. I call Lead C of 15 yds passed one on the S. Called Lit. good-womans Creek about 20 yds. wide Passed a Willow Isd. a Butifull Prarie approaching near the river above Lead C & extends to the Mine river in a westerly Derection, passed the Mouth of the Creek of the Big Rock 15 yds Wide at 4 ms. on the Lbd Sd. at 11 oClock brought a Caissie in which was 2 men, from 80 League up the Kansias River, where they wintered and caught a great qty of Beever but unfortunatey lost it by the burning of the plains, the Kansas Nation hunted on the Missourie last Winter and are now persueing the Buffalow in the Plains, passed a Projecting Rock called the Manitou a Painting from this Deavel to the Pt. on the Lbd Side N 23° W 71/2 Ms. The Same course 21/2 ms. Creek Cld. Manitou passed a on the Lbd. Side about 40 yd. wide, a Sand bar in the middle of the River passed up between the Sand & L. Shore one Mile to a Small Creek 10 yd. wide, (I call Sand C). We run on the Sand and was obliged to return to the Starbd Side, I am verry unwell with a Slight feever from a bad cold caught three days ago at the Grand so R—passed a Small Willow Isd. on S. Side, a large one in the Middle of the river, York Swam to the Isd. to pick greens, and Swam back with his greens, the Boat Drew too much water to cross the quick Sands which intervened, She draws 4 foot water, a fair wind our mast being broke by accidence provented our takeing the advantage of it passed the lower point of a large Island, opposit the Current devides between 4 Small Isds on the St Side. we found the water excessively hard for 12 Miles as we were oblged to pass up the center of the Current between two of the Isds. & round the heads of the other 2 the Current Setting imediately against the points which was choked up with Drift for a mile—Above those Isd. on the St. Side we camped altogether our Hunter or Spis discovered the sign of a war party of abt. 10 Men
June 5th, Tuesday. I processed the venison that was killed yesterday. After setting out with a scouting party of three men at 6 o'clock, we headed northwest to a point on the south side, traveling 5 miles. We passed a creek on the left side, which I named Lead Creek, about 15 yards wide, and another on the south called Little Goodwoman’s Creek, roughly 20 yards wide. We passed a beautiful prairie near the river above Lead Creek that extends west toward the Mine River. We also passed the mouth of Big Rock Creek, which is 15 yards wide, at 4 miles on the left bank. At 11 o'clock, we met two men in a canoe who had traveled 80 leagues up the Kansas River, where they wintered and caught a large number of beavers, but unfortunately lost them due to a fire on the plains. The Kansas Nation hunted on the Missouri last winter and is now pursuing buffalo on the plains. We passed a projecting rock named Manitou, and continued from this point on the left bank, heading northwest for 7.5 miles. We maintained the same course for 2.5 miles until we reached a creek called Manitou, which is about 40 yards wide on the left bank. There’s a sandbar in the middle of the river. We continued between the sandbar and the left shore for a mile to a small creek 10 yards wide, which I named Sand Creek. We ran aground in the sand and had to return to the starboard side. I was feeling quite unwell with a slight fever from a cold I caught three days ago at the Grand, so I rested. We passed a small willow island on the south side and a larger one in the middle of the river. York swam to the island to gather greens and swam back with them. The boat was drawing too much water to navigate the quicksand areas; it draws 4 feet of water. A fair wind would have helped, but our mast broke accidentally, preventing us from taking advantage of it. We passed the lower point of a large island, where the current splits between four small islands on the starboard side. The water was excessively rough for 12 miles, and we had to navigate the center of the current between two of the islands and around the heads of the other two, with the current pushing hard against the points, which were clogged with driftwood for a mile. Above those islands on the starboard side, we camped altogether. Our hunter or spy discovered signs of a war party of about 10 men.
[Clark, June 5, 1804]
June 5th Tuesday 1804 after Jurking the meet Killed yesterday and Crossing the hunting party we Set out at 6 oClock, from the last Course & distance, N 51° W. 5 ms. to a pt. on the St. Sd. passed a Small Creek on the Ld. S. I call Lead C. passed a Creek on the S. S. of 20 yds. wide Cald. Lit. Good Womans C. on the L. S. a Prarie extends from Lead C. parrelel with the river to Mine river, at 4 ms. Passed the Creek of the big rock about 15 yds. wide on the L. Sd. at 11 oClock brought too a Small Caissee in which was two french men, from 80 Leagues up the Kansias R. where they wintered, and Cought a great quantity of Beaver, the greater part of which they lost by fire from the Praries, those men inform that the Kansas Nation are now out in the plains hunting Buffalow, they hunted last winter on this river Passed a projecting rock on which was painted a figue and a Creek at 2 ms. above Called Little Manitou Creek from the Painted rock this Creek 20 yds. wide on the L. Sd. passed a Small Creek on L. S. opposit a Verry bad Sand bar of Several ms. in extent, which we named Sand C here my Servent York Swam to the Sand bar to geather greens for our Dinner and returnd with a Sufficent quantity wild Creases or Teng grass, we passed up for 2 ms on the L. S. of this Sand and was obliged to return, the Watr. uncertain the quick Sand Moveing we had a fine wind, but could not make use of it, our Mast being broke, we passed between 2 Small Islands in the Middle of the Current, & round the head of three a rapid Current for one mile and Camped on the S. S. opsd. a large Island in the middle of the river; one Perogue did not get up for two hours, our Scout discovd. the fresh sign of about 10 Inds. I expect that those Indians are on their way to war against the Osages nation probably they are the Saukees
June 5th, Tuesday, 1804. After handling the meeting killed yesterday and crossing paths with the hunting party, we set out at 6 o'clock from the last course and distance, N 51° W, 5 miles to a point on the south side of the river. We passed a small creek on the left side, which I called Lead Creek. Then we passed a creek on the south side about 20 yards wide, called Little Good Woman's Creek on the left side. A prairie stretches from Lead Creek parallel to the river to Mine River, about 4 miles ahead. We passed a creek with a big rock, around 15 yards wide, on the left side. At 11 o'clock, we came across a small canoe containing two French men from 80 leagues up the Kansas River; they had wintered there and caught a large quantity of beaver, most of which they lost in a fire from the prairies. Those men informed us that the Kansas Nation is currently out in the plains hunting buffalo, as they hunted on this river last winter. We passed a projecting rock with a painted figure and a creek about 2 miles upstream called Little Manitou Creek, which is 20 yards wide on the left side. We passed a small creek on the left side opposite a very bad sandbar extending several miles, which we named Sand Creek. Here, my servant York swam to the sandbar to gather greens for our dinner and returned with a sufficient quantity of wild cress or tang grass. We traveled for 2 miles along the left side of this sand, but we were forced to return because the water was unstable and the quicksand was moving. We had a good wind, but couldn’t take advantage of it since our mast was broken. We navigated between two small islands in the middle of the current, then around the head of three rapids for one mile and camped on the south side opposite a large island in the middle of the river. One canoe did not arrive for two hours. Our scout discovered fresh signs of about 10 Indians. I suspect these Indians are heading to war against the Osage Nation; they are probably the Saukees.
[Clark, June 6, 1804]
Wednesday the 6th of June 1804. Mended our mast this morning and Set out at 7 oClock, under a Jentle Braise from the S, E by S N 28° W 31/2 miles to a hill on St Sd. passg the N. beige of the Island Called Split rock Island, the river rose last night a foot the Countrey about this Isd. is delightfull large rush bottom of rushes below on the St. Side N 49° W, 11/2 Ms. to the mouth of Split rock River ____ yds. wide on the Starboard Side opod. the pt. of a Isd. passed a place in the projecting rock Called the hole thro the rock, a round Cave pass thro the Pt. of rock's West 11/2 ms. to a pt. on Std. Sd. opposit a Clift of rocks abt 200 foot N 31° W. 4 ms 1/2 to a pt. on L. Side passed Saline Creek on the L. Side a large Salt Lick & Spring 9 me. up the Creek, one bushel of water will make 7 lb. of good Salt
Wednesday, June 6, 1804. We repaired our mast this morning and set out at 7 o'clock, under a gentle breeze from the S.E. by S. We traveled 3.5 miles to a hill on St. Sd., passing the northern shore of the island called Split Rock Island. The river rose a foot last night, and the area around this island is lovely, with a large patch of reeds on the south side, N 49° W, 1.5 miles to the mouth of Split Rock River, which is ____ yards wide on the starboard side, opposite the point of an island. We passed a spot in the projecting rock known as the hole through the rock, a round cave that we went through. Then we navigated 1.5 miles west to a point on the starboard side, across from a cliff of rocks about 200 feet high, N 31° W. We traveled 4.5 miles to a point on the left side and passed Saline Creek on the left, which had a large salt lick and spring 9 miles up the creek. One bushel of water can produce 7 pounds of good salt.
(Information) Took Meridian altitude of sun Limb. 37° 6' 0" equat to ____ of Lattidude.
(Information) Took the Meridian altitude of the sun's limb. 37° 6' 0" equates to ____ of latitude.
on this Creek, So great a no of Salt Springs are on it that the water is brackish N 51° W to a Belge of an Isd on the S. Sd. at 3 ms. Passed a Willow Isd. in Middle, Some wind in the after part of to day from the S E, (the Banks are falling in greatly in this part of the river) as also is one Side or the other in all the Course, we assended on the North Side of the Isd. and finding that the perogues Could not Keep up Camped 2 hs. by Sun. on the Sd Sd the land below this is good.
On this creek, there are so many salt springs that the water is brackish. We headed N 51° W to a beach on the island's south side, about 3 miles away. We passed a willow island in the middle. There was some wind in the afternoon from the southeast. The banks are eroding significantly in this part of the river, and one side is also giving way along the entire route. We traveled along the north side of the island, but the canoes couldn't keep up, so we camped 2 hours before sunset. The land below this point is good.
[Clark, June 6, 1804]
June 6th Wednesday 1804 Mended our Mast this morning &, Set out at 7 oClock under a jentle breise from S. E. by S passed the large Island, and a Creek Called Split rock Creek at 5 ms. on the S. S. psd. a place to the rock from which 20 yds we. this Creek takes its name, a projecting rock with a hole thro a point of the rock, at 8 ms. passed the mouth of a Creek Called Saline or Salt R on the L. Sd. this River is about 30 yds. wide, and has So many Licks & Salt Springs on its banks that the Water of the Creek is Brackish, one Verry large Lick is 9 ms. up on the left Side the water of the Spring in this Lick is Strong as one bushel of the water is said to make 7 lb. of good Salt passed a large Isd. & Several Small ones, the water excessivly Strong, So much So that we Camped Sooner than the usial time to waite for the pirogue, The banks are falling in Verry much to day river rose last night a foot.
June 6th, Wednesday, 1804. We fixed our mast this morning and set out at 7 o'clock under a gentle breeze from the southeast by south. We passed the large island and a creek called Split Rock Creek after 5 miles on the south side. We noted a rock from which this creek takes its name, a protruding rock with a hole through a point of it. At 8 miles, we passed the mouth of a creek called Saline or Salt River on the left side. This river is about 30 yards wide and has so many licks and salt springs along its banks that the water is brackish. One very large lick is 9 miles up on the left side; the water from this spring is so strong that one bushel of it is said to produce 7 pounds of good salt. We passed a large island and several smaller ones; the water was excessively strong, so much so that we camped earlier than usual to wait for the pirogue. The banks are eroding quite a bit today, and the river rose a foot last night.
Capt. Lewis took meridean altd. of Suns U. L. with the octant above Split Rock C. &made the altitude 37° 6' 00 error of octt. as useal 2° 0' 0" + The Countrey for Several miles below is good, on the top of the high land back is also tolerable land Some buffalow Sign to day
Capt. Lewis took the meridian altitude of the sun at U. L. with the octant above Split Rock C. and measured the altitude at 37° 6' 00" with the usual octant error of 2° 0' 0". The land several miles below is good, and the high land in the back has decent land too. Saw some buffalo signs today.
I am Still verry unwell with a Sore throat & head ake
I am still very unwell with a sore throat and headache.
[Clark, June 7, 1804]
Thursday 7th of June 1804 Set out early passed the head of the Isd from the Isd. N. 61° W. to the mouth of a Creek Called big monitu on St. Sd. 41/2 ms. psd. a Sand bar in the river, Som Buffalow Sign Sent out George Drewyer & Newmon to hunt Capt Lewis and 6 men went to a Lick up this Creek on the right Side over 2 mes. & 2 other not far above the water runs out of the bank & not verry Strong. 3 to 500 G for a bushell.
Thursday, June 7, 1804: Set out early and passed the head of the Isd from the Isd. N. 61° W. to the mouth of a creek called Big Monitu on St. Sd. 4 ½ miles past a sandbar in the river. Saw some buffalo signs. Sent out George Drewyer and Newmon to hunt. Captain Lewis and 6 men went to a lick up this creek on the right side, over 2 miles, and there were 2 others not far above where water runs out of the bank and isn’t very strong. 3 to 500 gallons for a bushel.
S 88° W. 2 Miles to a pt. on Lbd. Side, high bluff on the Stbd. Side, Monitou Creek is 30 yds. Wide at the mouth, passed a painted part of a Projecting rock we found ther a Den of rattle Snakes, Killed 3 proceeded on passed, S 81°W 4 ms. to apt. on S. Side passed an Island in the Middle of the river, S. 87° W. to a pt. of high Land on the L. S. pass'g over the Middle of a willow Island, ms. 31/2 proceed on 1/2 a mile on this Course a Camped at the mouth of Good womans river on the S. S. about 35 yds wide, & navagable Som D. our hunters brought in 3 bear this evening-& infd. that the Countrey between this R. & the Monitou R is rich and well watered, Capt. Lewis went out an hour this evening
S 88° W. 2 miles to a point on the left bank side, high bluff on the right bank side, Monitou Creek is 30 yards wide at the mouth. We passed a painted part of a projecting rock where we found a den of rattlesnakes, killed 3, then continued on, passing S 81° W for 4 miles to a point on the south side. We passed an island in the middle of the river, S 87° W to a point of high land on the left side, going over the middle of a willow island, for about 3.5 miles. We proceeded another half mile on this course and camped at the mouth of Good Woman's River on the south side, which is about 35 yards wide and navigable. Some of our hunters brought in 3 bears this evening and informed us that the area between this river and the Monitou River is rich and well-watered. Captain Lewis went out for an hour this evening.
[Clark, June 7, 1804]
June 7th Thursday 1804 Set out early passed the head of the Island opposit which we Camped last night, and brackfast at the Mouth of a large Creek on the S. S. Of 30 yds wide Called big Monetou, from the pt. of the Isd. or Course of last night to the mouth of this Creek is N 61° W 41/2 ms. a Short distance above the mouth of this Creek, is Several Courious Paintings and Carveing in the projecting rock of Limestone inlade with white red & blue flint, of a verry good quallity, the Indians have taken of this flint great quantities. We landed at this Inscription and found it a Den of rattle Snakes, we had not landed 3 minutes before three verry large Snakes wer observed on the Crevises of the rocks & Killed—at the mouth of the last mentioned Creek Capt. Lewis took four or five men & went to Some Licks or Springs of Salt water from two to four miles up the Creek on Rt. Side the water of those Springs are not Strong, Say from 4 to 600 Gs. of water for a Bushel of Salt passed Some Small willow Islands and Camped at the Mouth of a Small river called Good Womans River this river is about 35 yards wide and Said to be navagable for Perogues Several Leagues Capt. Lewis with 2 men went up the Creek a Short distance. our Hunters brought in three Bear this evening, and informs that the Countrey thro which they passed from the last Creek is fine rich land, & well watered.
June 7th, Thursday, 1804 We set out early and passed the head of the island opposite where we camped last night, having breakfast at the mouth of a large creek on the south side, about 30 yards wide, called Big Monetou. From the point of the island or the course of last night to the mouth of this creek is N 61° W, 4.5 miles. A short distance above the mouth of this creek, there are several curious paintings and carvings in the projecting limestone rock, inlaid with white, red, and blue flint of very good quality; the Indians have taken great quantities of this flint. We landed at this inscription and found it was a den of rattlesnakes. We hadn’t been on land for three minutes before three very large snakes were observed in the crevices of the rocks and killed. At the mouth of the last mentioned creek, Captain Lewis took four or five men and went to some licks or springs of salt water two to four miles up the creek on the right side. The water from those springs isn’t strong, about 400 to 600 gallons of water for a bushel of salt. We passed some small willow islands and camped at the mouth of a small river called Good Woman's River. This river is about 35 yards wide and said to be navigable for periogues several leagues. Captain Lewis, with two men, went up the creek a short distance. Our hunters brought in three bears this evening and report that the country they passed through from the last creek is fine, rich land, and well-watered.
[Clark, June 8, 1804]
June 8th Friday Set out at Daylight proceeded on the Course of last night S 87° W 3 ms passed a Willow Island, from the Point of last Course S 81° W. 3 ms. to a pt. on S. S. passd a ____ Isd. in the middle of the river, passd a run on the Ld S. above a pt. of rocks 3 ms. on which thir is a number of Deer Licks, N 88° W. 3 Ms. to a pt L S. N. 83° W 2 ms. to the Mo of Mine River, psd an Isd.—This river is 90 yards wide & navagable for Perogues about 90 Ms. I went out on the L S. about 4 ms. below this R. and found the Countrey for one mile back good Land and well watered the hills not high with a gentle assent from the river, well timbered with oake, walnit Hickory ash, &c. the land Still further back becoms thin and open, with Black & rasp Berries, and Still further back the Plains Commence, The french inform that Lead ore is found on this river in Several places, it heads up between the Osagees & Kansas River the right hand folk passes in a Short distance of the Missourie at the antient Little Ozages Villages our hunter Killed, 2 Deer, after Staying one hour at the mouth of this River, Cap Lewis went out & proceeded on one Mile & came in, he fount the land in the point high and fine Course N. 64° W 1 Ms. to a pt. on S. S. N. 80° W to the Lower pot a Id. on L. S. passed a Small Isd. in the m. R. at (3 Ms.) met 3 men on a Caussee from R Dis Soux, above The Mahar Nation loaded with fur. Camped on the Lower point of an Id. L. S. called the Mills, here I found Kegs an Pummey stone, and a place that fur or Skins had been burred by the hunters our Hunters Killed 5 Deer, Some rain, the Countrey on the S. S. is Verry fine
June 8th, Friday. We set out at daylight and continued on the course from last night, S 87° W for 3 miles. We passed a Willow Island, then from the point of the last course, S 81° W for 3 miles to a point on the south side. We passed an island in the middle of the river and a stream on the left side, above a rocky point, for 3 miles where there are several deer licks. We went N 88° W for 3 miles to a point on the left side, then N 83° W for 2 miles to the mouth of Mine River. We passed an island—this river is 90 yards wide and navigable for canoes for about 90 miles. I went out on the left side about 4 miles below this river and found that for one mile back the land was good and well-watered, with low hills gently sloping from the river, well timbered with oak, walnut, hickory, ash, etc. Further back, the land becomes thin and open, with blackberries and raspberries, and even further back, the plains begin. The French say that lead ore is found in several places along this river, which heads up between the Osage and Kansas Rivers. The right-hand fork comes very close to the Missouri near the old Little Osage Villages. Our hunter killed 2 deer. After staying an hour at the mouth of this river, Captain Lewis went out and proceeded for one mile, then returned. He found the land at the point high and promising. We continued N 64° W for 1 mile to a point on the south side, then N 80° W to the lower part of an island on the left side. We passed a small island in the middle of the river (3 miles) and met 3 men on a canoe from the Red River Sioux above the Mandan Nation, loaded with fur. We camped at the lower point of an island on the left side called the Mills; here I found kegs and pumice stone, and a spot where furs or skins had been buried by hunters. Our hunters killed 5 deer. There was some rain, and the country on the south side is very nice.
[Clark, June 8, 1804]
8th of June, Friday 1804 Set out this morning at Daylight proceeden on the Course of last night Passed two willow Islands & a Small Creek above a Rock point on the L. S. at 6 miles on which there is a number of Deer Licks, passed the Mine River at 9 ms. this river is about 70 yards wide at its mouth and is Said to be navagable for Perogues 80 or 90 ms. the main branch passes near the place where the Little osage Village formerly Stood on the Missouries, & heads between the Osarge & Kansias Rivers, the left hand fork head with nearer Branches of the Osage River, The french inform that Lead Ore has been found in defferent parts of this river, I took Sjt. Floyd and went out 4 Ms. below this river, I found the land Verry good for a Mile or 11/2 Ms. back and Sufficiently watered with Small Streams which lost themselves in the Missouries bottom, the Land rose gradeuelly from the river to the Summit of the high Countrey which is not more that 120 foot above High Water mark, we joined the Boat & Dined in the point above the mouth of this River, Capt. Lewis went out above the river & proceeded on one mile, finding the Countrey rich, the wedes & Vines So thick & high he came to the Boat—proceeded on passed an Island and Camped at the lower point of an Island on the L. S. Called the Island of mills about 4 ms. above Mine River at this place I found Kanteens, Axs, Pumey Stone & peltrey hid & buried (I suppose by some hunters) none of them (except the pumey Stone) was teched by one of our party, our hunters Killed 5 Deer to day, Commenced raining Soon after we Came too which prevented the party Cooking their provisions- our Spies inform that the Countrey they passed thro on S. S. is a fine high bottom, no water.
8th of June, Friday 1804 We set out this morning at dawn, following the course from last night. We passed two willow islands and a small creek above a rock point on the left side, six miles in, where there are several deer licks. We crossed the Mine River at nine miles; this river is about 70 yards wide at its mouth and is said to be navigable for canoes for 80 to 90 miles. The main branch runs close to where the Little Osage Village used to be on the Missouries, and it heads between the Osage and Kansas Rivers. The left fork leads to branches of the Osage River. The French have reported finding lead ore in various spots along this river. I took Sergeant Floyd and went out four miles below the river. I found the land very good for a mile or a mile and a half back, with enough water from small streams that flow into the Missouri bottom. The land gradually rose from the river to the summit of the high country, which is not more than 120 feet above high water mark. We joined the boat and had lunch at the point above the mouth of this river. Captain Lewis went out above the river and continued for a mile, discovering that the land was rich, with weeds and vines so thick and tall that he returned to the boat. We continued on, passed an island, and camped at the lower point of an island on the left side called the Island of Mills, about four miles above Mine River. Here I found canteens, axes, pumice stone, and some game hidden and buried (probably by some hunters). None of these, except the pumice stone, had been touched by our party. Our hunters killed five deer today. It started raining soon after we arrived, which prevented the party from cooking their provisions. Our scouts reported that the land they passed through on the south side is a fine high bottom, but there's no water.
This day we met 3 men on a Cajaux from the River of the Soux above the Mahar nation those men had been hunting 12 mo. & made about 900$ in pelts. & furs they were out of Provesions and out of Powder. rained this night
This day, we met 3 men on a canoe from the River of the Sioux, above the Mahar nation. These men had been hunting for 12 months and made about $900 in pelts and furs. They were out of provisions and out of powder. It rained this night.
[Clark, June 9, 1804]
9th of June Satterday Set out early, water verry Swift got fast on a log, detained us 1/4 hour Hard rain last night. N 39° W 31/2 Ms. to a pt. on the S. S. opposit the Commencement of the 1st Prarie, Called Prarie of the Arrows,1 the river at this place about 300 yds. Wide passed a Small Creek, Arrow Creek 8 yds. wide L. Sd. the Current exceedingly Strong
9th of June, Saturday We set out early. The water was very swift, and we got stuck on a log, which held us up for 15 minutes. It rained hard last night. We traveled 3.5 miles northwest to a point on the south side, opposite the beginning of the first prairie, called the Prairie of the Arrows. The river here is about 300 yards wide, and we passed a small creek called Arrow Creek, which is 8 yards wide on the left side. The current is extremely strong.
N 34° E 2 ms. to the Belg of a Small Island Situated on the L. Sd. Passed the mo. of Arrow Creek N 83°W 11/2 ms. to a pt on L. S. opposit Black bird C Small passed the head of the Isd. & a small Willow one to the L. S. (Os merdn. altd. back obsvn. 37 00' 00) N. 39° W 2 Ms. to a pt. of High Land on the L. Side opst. a pt. on St. S. River about 350 yds. wide at this pt. a Wind from the S at 4 oClock (Handson Sutn) on the High pt. a prarie & Small Lake below N 32° E 31/2 Ms. to a pt. on L. S. passed an Isld. in the mid R—in passing up on the S. S. opsd. the Isd. the Sturn of the boat Struck a log which was not proceiveable the Curt. Struck her bow and turn the boat against Some drift & Snags which below with great force; This was a disagreeable and Dangerous Situation, particularly as immense large trees were Drifting down and we lay imediately in their Course,—Some of our men being prepared for all Situations leaped into the water Swam ashore with a roap, and fixed themselves in Such Situations, that the boat was off in a fiew minits, I can Say with Confidence that our party is not inferior to any that was ever on the waters of the Missoppie we Crossed to the Island and Camped, our hunters lay on the S. S. the wind from the S. W. the river continue to rise Slowly Current excessive rapid—The Countrey on the S. S. high bottom & Delghtfull land that on the L. S. is up land or hills of from 50 to 100 foot higher than the bottom & a thinly wooded, Countrey, Lands tolerably Good; Comminced raining at 5 oClock and continued by intervales the greater part of the night. We discovered that one of our French hands had a Conpt.—We Commsd Doctering, I hope the Success in this case, usial to
N 34° E 2 miles to the edge of a small island located on the left side. Passed the mouth of Arrow Creek N 83° W 1.5 miles to a spot on the left side opposite Blackbird Creek. We passed the head of the island and a small willow one on the left side. (Observations altered back 37° 00' 00) N. 39° W 2 miles to a point of high land on the left side opposite a spot on the St. S. River, which is about 350 yards wide at this point, with a wind from the south at 4 o'clock (Handson Sutn) on the high point, a prairie and small lake below. N 32° E 3.5 miles to a point on the left side, passing an island in the middle of the river. As we were moving up on the south side opposite the island, the stern of the boat hit a log that was barely visible. The current hit her bow and spun the boat against some driftwood and snags with great force. This was a challenging and dangerous situation, especially since huge trees were drifting down, and we were right in their path. Some of our men, prepared for anything, jumped into the water, swam ashore with a rope, and positioned themselves so that the boat was freed in a few minutes. I can confidently say that our party is as capable as any that has ever navigated the waters of the Mississippi. We crossed to the island and set up camp; our hunters stayed on the south side. The wind was from the southwest, and the river continued to rise slowly with an excessively rapid current. The land on the south side was high bottom and delightful, while the left side was hilly land around 50 to 100 feet higher than the bottom and was thinly wooded, with reasonably good land. It started raining at 5 o'clock and continued on and off for most of the night. We discovered that one of our French crew members had a cough. We began treating him, and I hope for a successful outcome in this case.
[Clark, June 9, 1804]
9th of June 1804 Satturday a fair morning, the River rise a little we got fast on a Snag Soon after we Set out which detained us a Short time passed the upper Point of the Island Several Small Chanels running out of the River below a Bluff & Prarie (Called the Prariee of Arrows) where the river is confined within the width of 300 yds. Passed a Creek of 8 yds. wide Called Creek of Arrows, this Creek is Short and heads in the Praries on the L. S. passed a Small Creek Called Blackbird Creek S. S. and One Islands below & a Prarie above on the L. S. a Small Lake above the Prarie—opposit the Lower point of the 2d. Island on the S. S. we had like to have Stove our boat, in going round a Snag her Stern Struck a log under Water & She Swung round on the Snag, with her broad Side to the Current expd. to the Drifting timber, by the active exertions of our party we got her off in a fiew Mints. without engerey and Crossed to the Island where we Campd. our hunters lay on the S. S. the Perogue Crossed without Seeing them & the banks too uncertain to Send her over- Some wind from the S accompanied with rain this evening—The Lands on the S. S. is a high rich bottom the L. S. appears oven and of a good quallity runing gradually to from fifty to 100 foot.
June 9, 1804, Saturday, a nice morning. The river rose slightly, and we got stuck on a snag shortly after we set out, which slowed us down for a bit. We passed the upper point of the island, where there were several small channels flowing out of the river below a bluff and prairie (called the Prairie of Arrows), where the river narrows to about 300 yards. We passed an 8-yard-wide creek called Creek of Arrows; this creek is short and originates in the prairies on the left side. We also passed a small creek called Blackbird Creek on the south side and one island below, with a prairie above on the left side, and a small lake above the prairie—across from the lower point of the second island on the south side. We almost damaged our boat while navigating around a snag; its stern hit a submerged log, causing it to swing around on the snag, with its broadside exposed to the current and drifting timber. Thanks to the quick efforts of our team, we got it free in a few minutes without any injury and crossed to the island, where we camped. Our hunters stayed on the south side; the perogue crossed without seeing them, and the banks were too uncertain to send it over. There was some wind accompanied by rain this evening. The land on the south side is high, rich bottomland, while the left side appears flat and of good quality, gradually rising from fifty to 100 feet.
[Clark, June 10, 1804]
June 10th Sunday 1804 Some rain last night we set out early Saw a number of Goslings this morning, Continued on the Course of last night, thence N. 8 E. 21/2 ms. to a pt. on the L. S. passed a part of the River that the banks are falling in takeing with them large trees of Cotton woods which is the Common groth in the Bottoms Subject to the flud North 1 Me along the L. Side N. 40° W. 1 ms. along the L, S. opposit the two Charletons, on the N. Side, those rivers mouth together, the 1st 40 yds. wide the next 90 yds. Wide and navagable Some distance in the Countrey, the land below is high & not verry good. Came to and took Mdnl. altd. of Sons U. L. back obsvn. with the octant Made it 37° 12' 00", delayed 11/2 Hour. N. 70° W 1/2 of a me. along the L. Sd.—S 60° W 1/2 m. on L. S. the Same Course to the Pt. S. S. 11/2 Ms. We halted and Capt Lewis Killed a Buck the Current is excessively Swift about this place N. 80° W. 3 ms to a pt. on S. S. passed a Isd. Called Sheeco Islan wind from the N W Camped in a Prarie on the L. S., Capt Lewis & my Self Walked out 3 ms. found the Country roleing open & rich, with plenty of water, great qts of Deer I discovered a Plumb which grows on bushes the hight of Hasle, those plumbs are in great numbers, the bushes beare Verry full, about double the Sise of the wild plumb Called the Osage Plumb & am told they are finely flavoured.
June 10th, Sunday, 1804 We had some rain last night and set out early. We saw several goslings this morning. We continued on the path from last night, heading N. 8 E. for 2.5 miles to a point on the left side. We passed a part of the river where the banks are eroding, taking down large cottonwood trees, which are common in the flood-prone bottomlands. We went north for 1 mile along the left side, then N. 40° W for 1 mile along the left side, opposite the two Charletons on the north side, where the two rivers meet. The first river is 40 yards wide, and the next is 90 yards wide and navigable for some distance inland. The land below is high and not very good. We stopped and took a modified altitude of the sun using the octant, which gave us a reading of 37° 12' 00". We were delayed for an hour and a half. We continued N. 70° W for half a mile along the left side, then S. 60° W for half a mile on the left side, maintaining the same course to a point south for 1.5 miles. We halted here, and Captain Lewis killed a buck. The current is exceptionally swift in this area. We headed N. 80° W for 3 miles to a point on the south side and passed an island called Sheeco Island with the wind coming from the northwest. We camped in a prairie on the left side. Captain Lewis and I walked out for 3 miles and found the land rolling, open, and rich, with plenty of water and a lot of deer. I discovered a plum that grows on bushes about the height of hazel. These plums are abundant, and the bushes are very full, about double the size of a wild plum, called the Osage plum, and I’m told they are very flavorful.
[Clark, June 10, 1804]
10th of June 1804 A hard rain last night, we Set out this morning verry early passed Some bad placies in the river Saw a number of Goslings morning pass near a Bank which was falling in at the time we passed, passed the two River of Charletons which mouth together, above Some high land which has a great quantity of Stone Calculated for whetstons the first of those rivers is about 30 yds. Wide & the other is 70 yds wd. and heads Close to the R.
10th of June 1804 A heavy rain last night, we set out this morning very early, passed some rough spots in the river, and saw a number of goslings. We went past a bank that was eroding as we passed, and we crossed the two Charleton Rivers where they meet, just above some high land that has a lot of stone suitable for whetstones. The first of those rivers is about 30 yards wide and the other is 70 yards wide, both starting close to the river.
Dumoin The Aieways Nation have a Village on the head of these River they run through an even Countrey and is navagable for Perogues Cap Lewis took Medn. altd. of sun U. L with Octant, back obsvn. made it 37° 12' 00"—delayd 11/2 hours.
Dumoin The Aieways Nation has a village at the head of this river that flows through a flat area and is navigable for canoes. Captain Lewis took a midday altitude measurement with the octant and made it 37° 12' 00"—delayed for 1.5 hours.
Capt. Lewis Killed a large Buck, passed a large Isd. called Shecco and Camped in a Prarie on the L. S. I walked out three miles, found the prarie composed of good Land and plenty of water roleing & interspursed with points of timberd land, Those Praries are not like those, or a number of those E. of the Mississippi Void of every thing except grass, they abound with Hasel Grapes & a wild plumb of a Superior quallity, called the Osages Plumb Grows on a bush the hight of a Hasel and hang in great quantities on the bushes I Saw great numbers of Deer in the Praries, the evening is Cloudy, our party in high Spirits.
Capt. Lewis killed a large buck, passed a big island called Shecco, and camped in a prairie on the left side. I walked out three miles and found the prairie to be good land with plenty of water, rolling and interspersed with patches of timbered land. These prairies are not like the ones, or many of them, east of the Mississippi, which are bare except for grass; they are full of hazel grapes and a wild plum of superior quality, called the Osage plum, which grows on bushes about the height of hazel and hangs in great quantities. I saw a lot of deer in the prairies. The evening is cloudy, and our group is in high spirits.
[Clark, June 11, 1804]
11 June Monday—as the wind blew all this day from the N, W. which was imedeately a head we Could not Stur, but took the advantage of the Delay and Dried our wet articles examined provisons and Cleaned arms, my Cold is yet verry bad—the river begining to fall our hunters killed two Deer, G Drewry killed 2 Bear in the Prareie to day, men verry lively Danceing & Singing &c.
11 June, Monday—As the wind blew all day from the Northwest, which was directly in our path, we couldn’t move, but we took the opportunity to dry our wet gear, checked our supplies, and cleaned our weapons. My cold is still pretty bad—the river is starting to go down. Our hunters killed two deer, and G. Drewry caught two bears in the prairie today. The men are very lively, dancing and singing, etc.
[Clark, June 11, 1804]
11th June 1804 Monday The N W. wind blew hard & Cold as this wind was imediately a head, we Could not proceed we took the advantage of this Delay and Dried our wet articles examin'd Provisions &c. &c. the river begining to fall the hunters killed two Deer G. Drewyer Killed two Bear in the Prarie, they were not fat. we had the meat Jurked and also the Venison, which is a Constant Practice to have all the fresh meat not used, Dried in this way.
11th June 1804 Monday The northwest wind blew hard and cold. Since this wind was directly in our faces, we couldn’t move forward. We took advantage of this delay to dry our wet items and check our supplies. The river started to fall, and the hunters killed two deer. G. Drewyer killed two bears in the prairie; they weren’t fat. We had the meat jerked and also the venison, which is a regular practice to make sure all the fresh meat we don’t use gets dried this way.
[Clark, June 12, 1804]
12th of June, Tuesday We Set out early, passed thro a verry bad bend N. 25° W. 31/2 to apt. L. S. N. 70° W. 21/2 ms to apt. on S. S. passed a Sand bar-N 60° W 31/2 ms. to a pt. on S. S. passed Plumb. C at 1/2 a me. on L. S. and halted to Dine, and 2 Caussease Came Down from the Soux nation, we found in the party an old man who had been with the Soux 20 years & had great influence with them, we provld. on this old man Mr. Duriaur to return with us, with a view to get Some of the Soux Chiefs to go to the U. S. purchased 300 lb. of Voyagers Grece @ 5$ Hd. made Some exchanges & purchuses of Mockersons & found it Late & concluded to incamp.
12th of June, Tuesday We set out early, navigated through a really bad bend N. 25° W. for 3.5 miles to a point on the south side, then 70° W. for 2.5 miles to a point on the south side, and passed a sandbar N 60° W for 3.5 miles to a point on the south side. We passed Plumb Creek at half a mile on the left side and stopped for lunch. Two Caussease came down from the Sioux nation. In the group, we found an old man who had been with the Sioux for 20 years and had a lot of influence with them. We decided to ask this old man, Mr. Duriaur, to return with us to persuade some of the Sioux chiefs to go to the U.S. We bought 300 pounds of Voyager’s grease at $5 a head, made some trades and purchases of mockersons, realized it was getting late, and decided to set up camp.
Those people inform that no Indians are on the river, The Countrey on each Side of the river is good
Those people say that there are no Native Americans on the river. The land on both sides of the river is good.
[Clark, June 12, 1804]
12th of June, Tuesday 1804 Set out early passed Some bad Placies, and a Small Creek on the L. S. Called plumb Creek at abt. 1 me. at 1 oClock we brought too two Chaussies one Loaded with furs & Pelteries, the other with Greece buffalow grease & tallow We purchased 300 lb. of Greese, and finding that old Mr. Durioun was of the party we questioned him untill it was too late to Go further and Concluded to Camp for the night, those people inform nothing of much information Colcluded to take old Durioun back as fur as the Soux nation with a view to get some of their Chiefs to Visit the Presdt.
June 12th, Tuesday, 1804 We set out early and passed some rough areas and a small creek on the left side called Plumb Creek, about 1 mile in. At 1 o'clock, we stopped to meet two wagons: one loaded with furs and pelts, and the other with buffalo grease and tallow. We bought 300 pounds of grease. When we found out that old Mr. Durioun was part of the group, we questioned him until it got too late to continue, so we decided to camp for the night. Those people didn't provide much useful information, so we decided to take old Durioun back as far as the Sioux Nation, hoping to get some of their chiefs to visit the President.
of the United S. (This man being a verry Confidential friend of those people, he having resided with the nation 20 odd years) and to accompany them on
of the United S. (This man is a very close friend of those people, having lived with the nation for over 20 years) and to go with them on
[Clark, June 13, 1804]
13th June Wednesday we Set out early passed a verry round bend to L. S. passed two Creeks 1 me. apt. Called Creeks of the round Bend, between those Creeks Stbd S. is a butifull Prarie, in which the antient Missourie Indians had a Village, at this place 300 of them were killed by the Saukees, a fair Day. Passed the antient Missouries villages on right Course N 40° W 21/2 pt. L S., S 29° W 3 ms. pt. S. S., this nation once the Most Noumerous is now almost extinct, about 30 of them, liveing with Otteaus on the R. Platt, the remainder all distroyed, took altd. of S. U L with qdt. which gave N 28 W. 11/2 ms to a pt. S. S. Passed some Charming land, I have not Seen any high hils above Charliton and the hits below for Several days Cannot to turmed hills but high Land, not exceeding 100 abov the high water mark N 30° W, to a pt. L. S. 2 ms. passed a verry bad Sand bar, where the boat was nearly turning & fastening in the quick Sand and came too in the mouth of Grand R. S. S. this River is about 120 yards wide and navigable for Purogues a great distance, it heads with the River Dumoine, passing the river Carlton. a Butifull open Prarie Coms to the river below its mouth, we landed and walked to the hills which is abt. 1/2 a mile. the Lower prarie over flows. the hunters Killd. a Bare & Dere, this is a butifull place the Prarie rich & extinsive, Took Some Looner Observations which Kept Cap L. & my Self up untill half past 11 oClock.
June 13, Wednesday, we set out early and passed a very round bend to the left side. We went by two creeks, one mile apart, called the Creeks of the Round Bend. Between those creeks on the starboard side is a beautiful prairie where the ancient Missouri Indians had a village. At this spot, 300 of them were killed by the Saukees on a clear day. We passed the ancient Missouri villages on the right, heading N 40° W for 2.5 points on the left side, and S 29° W for 3 miles on the right side. This nation, once the most numerous, is now almost extinct, with only about 30 of them living with the Otteaus on the River Platt; the rest have all been destroyed. We took an alternate route south with a quadrant that gave us N 28 W for 1.5 miles to a point on the right side. We passed some charming land; I haven't seen any high hills above Charliton and the hills below for several days. They can’t be turned into hills but are just high land, not exceeding 100 feet above the high water mark heading N 30° W to a point on the left side for 2 miles. We passed a very bad sandbar where the boat nearly capsized and got stuck in the quicksand and came to a stop at the mouth of Grand River on the right side. This river is about 120 yards wide and navigable for canoes a long distance. It joins with the River Dumoine, passing the River Carlton. A beautiful open prairie comes to the river below its mouth. We landed and walked to the hills, which are about half a mile away. The lower prairie overflows. The hunters killed a bear and a deer. This is a beautiful place, the prairie rich and expansive. I took some lunar observations that kept Captain L. and me up until half past 11 o'clock.
[Clark, June 13, 1804]
13th June Wednesday, 1804 We Set out early passed a round bend to the S. S. and two Creeks Called the round bend Creeks between those two Creeks and behind a Small willow Island in the bend is a Prarie in which the Missouries Indians once lived and the Spot where 300 of them fell a Sacrifise to the fury of the Saukees This nation (Missouries) once the most noumerous nation in this part of the Continent now reduced to about 80 fes. and that fiew under the protection of the Otteaus on R Platt who themselves are declineing passed Som willow Isds. and bad Sand bars, Twook Medn. altitude with Octent back observation it gave for altd. on its Low L 36° 58' 0" the E Enstrement 2° 00' 00" +. the Hills or high land for Several days past or above the 2 Charletons does not exceed 100 foot passed a Batteau or Sand roleing where the Boat was nearly turning over by her Strikeing & turning on the Sand. We came too in the Mouth of Grand River on S. S. and Camped for the night, this River is from 80 to 100 yards wide at its Mouth and navagable for Perogues a great distance This river heads with the R. Dumoine below its mouth is a butifull Plain of bbttom land the hills rise at 1/2 a mile back
13th June, Wednesday, 1804 We set out early, passed a round bend to the south, and two creeks called the Round Bend Creeks. Between those two creeks and behind a small willow island in the bend is a prairie where the Missouri Indians once lived and where 300 of them fell as victims to the fury of the Saukees. This nation (Missouries), which was once the most numerous nation in this part of the continent, is now reduced to about 80 individuals, and that small number is under the protection of the Otteaus on the Platte River, who themselves are declining. We passed some willow islands and bad sandbars. Took a median altitude with an octant back observation, which gave for altitude on its low latitude 36° 58' 0", the eastern extremity 2° 00' 00" +. The hills or high land for several days past or above the two charletons do not exceed 100 feet. We passed a batteau or sand rolling where the boat nearly turned over by striking and turning on the sand. We stopped at the mouth of the Grand River on the south side and camped for the night. This river is about 80 to 100 yards wide at its mouth and navigable for pirogues for quite a distance. This river originates with the Dumoine River, and below its mouth is a beautiful plain of bottom land; the hills rise about half a mile back.
The lands about this place is either Plain or over flown bottom Capt Lewis and my Self walked to the hill from the top of which we had a butifull prospect of Serounding Countrey in the open Prarie we Caught a racoon, our hunters brought in a Bear & Deer we took Some Luner observation this evening.
The land around here is either flat or flooded. Captain Lewis and I walked up a hill, where we had a beautiful view of the surrounding countryside. In the open prairie, we caught a raccoon, and our hunters brought back a bear and a deer. We took some lunar observations this evening.
[Clark, June 14, 1804]
14th June, Thursday We set out at 6 oClock after a thick fog proceeded on verry well S. 33 W 2 Ms. to the lower pt of an Isld. S. S. S. 60° W. thro a narrow 1 me channel to a Small prarie S. S. opposit this Isd. on L. L. is a Butifull high Plain. from the Isd. S. 70'W. to a pt. L. S. 21/2 ms. just below a piec of High Land on the S. S. Called the place of Snakes, passed the worst place I have Seen on L. S. a Sand bar makeing out 2/3 Cross the river Sand Collecting &c forming Bars and Bars washg a way, the boat Struck and turned, She was near oversetting we saved her by Some extrodany exertions of our party (ever ready to inconture any fatigue for the premotion of the enterpris), I went out to walk on the Sand Beech, & Killed a Deer & Turky during the time I was from the boat a Caussee came too from the Pania nation loaded with furs We gave them Some whiskey and Tobacco & Settled Some desputes & parted S. 5 E. 3 ms. to pt. on S. S. passed a Creek S. S. 25 yds. wd. Called Snake Creek or (____) passed a bad Sand bar S. S. in passing which we were obliged to run great Sesque of Loseing both Boat & men, Camped above, G. Drewyer tels of a remarkable Snake inhabiting a Small lake 5 ms. below which gobbles like a Turkey & may be herd Several miles, This Snake is of Size.
14th June, Thursday We left at 6 o'clock after a thick fog and traveled well S. 33 W for 2 miles to the lower point of an island. S. S. S. 60° W through a narrow one-mile channel to a small prairie on the opposite side of the island. On the left side, there is a beautiful high plain. From the island, we went S. 70' W to a point on the left side 2.5 miles just below a piece of high land on the left side called the place of snakes. We passed the worst spot I've seen on the left side, a sandbar extending two-thirds across the river with sand collecting and forming bars while others were washing away. The boat hit and turned, almost capsizing, but we saved her through the extraordinary efforts of our group (always ready to endure any fatigue for the sake of the mission). I went out to walk on the sandy beach and killed a deer and turkey. While I was away from the boat, a canoe came from the Pania nation loaded with furs. We gave them some whiskey and tobacco, settled some disputes, and parted. We continued S. 5 E. for 3 miles to a point on the left side and passed a creek on the left, 25 yards wide, called Snake Creek or (____). We encountered a bad sandbar on the left side, and in passing, we faced the risk of losing both the boat and men. We camped above. G. Drewyer tells of a remarkable snake living in a small lake 5 miles below that gobbles like a turkey and can be heard several miles away. This snake is quite large.
[Clark, June 14, 1804]
14th, June Thursday we Set out at 6 oClock, after a thick fog passed thro a narrow pass on the S. S. which forms a large Isd. opposit the upper point of this Island on the L. S. is one of the worst quick or moveing Sand bars which I have Seen not withstanding all our precaustons to Clear the Sands & pass between them (which was the way we were Compd. to pass from the immens Current & falling banks on the S. S.) the Boat Struck the point of one from the active exertions of the men, prevented her turning, if She had turned She must have overset. we met a Causseu from the Pania on the River Platt, we detained 2 hours with a view of engageing one of the hands to go to the Pania nation with a View to get those people to meet us on the river. I went out (Shot a Deer) we passd a highland &clay bluff on the S. S. Called the Snake bluff from the number of Snakes about this place, we passd a Creek above the Bluff about 18 yds. wide, This Creek is Called Snake Creek, a bad Sand bar Just below which we found difficuelty in passing & Campd above, our Hunters Came in. George Drewyer, gives the following act. of a Pond, & at abt. 5 miles below the S. S. Passed a Small Lake in which there was many Deer feeding he heard in this Pond a Snake makeing Goubleing Noises like a turkey. he fired his gun & the noise was increased, he has heard the indians Mention This Species of Snake one Frenchman give a Similar account
On June 14th, Thursday, we set out at 6 o'clock after the thick fog had cleared. We passed through a narrow spot on the south side, where there’s a large island opposite the upper point of this island on the left side. It's one of the worst quicksand or shifting sandbars I've ever seen. Despite all our precautions to navigate through the sands and pass between them—this was the only way to avoid the immense current and the eroding banks on the south side—the boat hit the point of one sandbar. Thanks to the crew's efforts, we managed to prevent it from turning; if it had turned, it would have capsized. We encountered a casual group from the Pania tribe on the River Plate and stopped for 2 hours, hoping to recruit one of them to go to the Pania nation to persuade the people to meet us on the river. I went out and shot a deer. We passed a highland and clay bluff on the south side known as Snake Bluff due to the number of snakes in the area. We also passed a creek above the bluff that was about 18 yards wide, called Snake Creek. Just below that, we ran into a troublesome sandbar that made passage difficult, so we camped above it. Our hunters returned. George Drewyer shared an account of a pond about 5 miles downstream on the south side. He passed a small lake where many deer were grazing and heard a snake in this pond making gurgling noises like a turkey. He fired his gun, and the noise increased. He has heard the Indians mention this species of snake, and one Frenchman gave a similar account.
[Clark, June 15, 1804]
15 June Friday 1804, we Set out early proceeded on about 1 me. and the Boat turned on a Sawyer which was near doeing her great damage, the river is riseing fast & the water exceedingly Swift, passd. a bad Sand bar on which we Stuck for a Short time this is Said to be the worst part of the river and Camped opsd. the bend in which the Antient Villages of the little Osarge & Missouries, the lower or first of those villagies (L. Osages) is Situated in Butifull Plain at the foot of Some riseing land, in front of their Viliges next the river is a butifull bottom Plain in which they raised their Corn &c. back of the Village the high Prarie extends back to the Osarge River, about 3 Ms. above & in view the Missouries Nation resided under the protection of the Osarges, after their nation was riducd by the Saukees below, thos built their Village in the Same low Prarie and lived there many years, the war was So hot & both nations becom So reduced that the Little Osage & a fiew of the Missoures moved & built a village 5 ms near the Grand Osage, the rest of the Missoures went and took protection under the Otteaus on Platt river
15 June Friday 1804, we set out early and traveled about 1 mile. The boat hit a submerged log, which caused significant damage. The river is rising quickly, and the water is extremely swift. We passed a troublesome sandbar where we got stuck for a short time. This area is said to be the worst part of the river. We camped opposite the bend where the ancient villages of the Little Osage and Missouries are located. The first of those villages (L. Osages) is situated in a beautiful plain at the foot of some rising land. In front of their village, next to the river, is a lovely flat area where they grew their corn and other crops. Behind the village, the high prairie stretches back to the Osage River, about 3 miles upstream. The Missouries Nation lived there under the protection of the Osages after their nation was diminished by the Saukees. They built their village in the same low prairie and lived there for many years. The conflict was intense, and both nations became so reduced that the Little Osage and a few of the Missouries moved and established a village 5 miles near the Grand Osage. The rest of the Missouries sought refuge with the Otteaus on the Platt River.
[Clark, June 15, 1804]
15th, June, Friday 1804 Set out early and had not proceeded far e'er we wheeled on a Sawyer which was near injuring us Verry much, passed a plain on the L. S. a Small Isd. in the midle the river riseing, water verry Swift Passed a Creek on the L. S. passed between two Islands, a verry bad place, Moveing Sands, we were nearly being Swallowed up by the roleing Sands over which the Current was So Strong that we Could not Stem it with our Sales under a Stiff breese in addition to our ores, we were Compelled to pass under a bank which was falling in, and use the Toe rope occasionally, Continued up pass two other Small Islands and Camped on the S. S. Nearly opposit the Antient Village of the Little Osarges and below the Antt. Village of the Missoures both Situations in view an within three Ms. of each other, the Osage were Settled at the foot a hill in a butifell Plain which extends back quite to the Osage River, in front of the Vilg. Next to the river is an ellegent bottom Plain which extends Several miles in length on the river in this low Prarie the Missouries lived after They were reduced by the Saukees at Their Town Some Dists. below. The little osage finding themselves much oppressed by the Saukees & other nations, left this place & built a village 5 ms. from the Grand Osarge Town about ____ years ago. a few of the Missoures accompanied them, the remainder of that nation went to the Otteaus on the River Platt. The River at this place is about 1 ms. wide our hunters did not Come in this evening the river beginning to fall
15th June, Friday 1804 We set out early and hadn’t gone far when we encountered a sawyer that almost caused us serious injury. We passed a plain on the left side and a small island in the middle, with the river rising and the water flowing very swiftly. We passed a creek on the left side and moved between two islands, a very dangerous spot with shifting sands. We nearly got swallowed up by the rolling sands, as the current was so strong that we couldn't make headway with our sails in addition to our oars. We had to pass under a bank that was crumbling and occasionally used the tow rope. We continued upriver, passing two other small islands, and camped on the south side, nearly opposite the ancient village of the Little Osages and below the ancient village of the Missouries. Both locations were in view and within three miles of each other. The Osages settled at the foot of a hill in a beautiful plain that extends back towards the Osage River. In front of the village, next to the river, is an elegant bottom plain that stretches several miles along the river. In this low prairie, the Missouries lived after being reduced by the Saukees at their town some distance downstream. The Little Osages, feeling oppressed by the Saukees and other nations, left this place and built a village five miles from the Grand Osage Town about ____ years ago. A few of the Missouries accompanied them, while the rest of their nation went to the Otteaus on the Platte River. The river at this location is about one mile wide. Our hunters did not return this evening as the river began to fall.
[Clark, June 16, 1804]
16th June Satterday Set out at 7 oClock Proceed on N. 68°W. 21/2 ms. passed a Isd. close on the S. S. at the lower point Drewer & Willard had camped & had with them 2 bear & 2 Deer we took in the meat & proceeded on. Some rain this morning West 2 Ms. pass an Isd on S. S. & prarie, to a Belge of Snag Isd. L. S. a butifull extensive Prarie on S. S. Hills to about 9 ms. distant. Mr. Mackey has Laid down the rems. of an old fort in this Prarie, which I cannot find S 85 W. 1 me. along the Isd. L. S.—S 61° W alg L. S. 1 me. S 30° W, 3, ms. to pt. S. S. opsd. an Isd. & head of the last S 40° W 1 me. S. S. Passed a verry bad place where the Sand was moving constantly, I walked on Shore obsd. fine high Bottom land on S. S. Camped late this evening.
June 16, Saturday Set out at 7 o'clock. Proceeded on N. 68°W for 2.5 miles. Passed an island close on the south side at the lower point where Drewer and Willard had camped. They had with them 2 bears and 2 deer, and we took some of the meat and continued on. There was some rain this morning. Went west for 2 miles, passing an island on the south side and prairie, to a group of snag islands on the left side. Beautiful, expansive prairie on the south side with hills about 9 miles away. Mr. Mackey has marked the remains of an old fort in this prairie, which I cannot find at S 85° W, 1 mile along the island on the left side—S 61° W along the left side for 1 mile, and then S 30° W for 3 miles to the point on the south side opposite an island and the head of the last one at S 40° W for 1 mile on the south side. Passed a very bad area where the sand was constantly shifting; I walked on shore and observed fine, high bottom land on the south side. Camped late this evening.
[Clark, June 16, 1804]
16th, June Satturday 1804 Set out at 7 oClock at about a mile 1/2 we Came to the Camp of our hunters, they had two Bear & two Deer proceeded on pass a Island on the S. S. a heavy rain came on & lasted a Short time, we came to on the S. S. in a Prarie at the place where Mr. Mackey lay down a old french fort, I could See no traces of a Settlement of any Kind, in this plain I discovered a Kind of Grass resembling Timothey which appeared well calculated for Hay, this Plain is verry extensive in the evening I walked on the S. S. to see if any timber was Convt. to make Oars, which we were much in want of, I found Som indifferent timber and Struck the river above the Boat at a bad Sand bar the worst I had Seen which the boat must pass or Drop back Several Miles & Stem a Swift Current on the opsd Side of an Isd. the Boat however assended the middle of the Streem which was diffucult Dangerious We Came to above this place at Dark and Camped in a bad place, the misquitoes and Ticks are noumerous & bad.
16th June, Saturday 1804 We set out at 7 o'clock. After about a mile and a half, we reached the camp of our hunters, who had caught two bears and two deer. We moved on, passing an island on the south side. A heavy rain came down and lasted a short time. We stopped on the south side in a prairie at the spot where Mr. Mackey set up an old French fort. I couldn’t see any signs of a settlement of any kind. In this plain, I found a type of grass that looked like Timothy and seemed well-suited for hay. This plain is very extensive. In the evening, I walked along the south side to see if there was any timber suitable for making oars, which we desperately needed. I found some mediocre timber and struck the river above the boat at a bad sandbar, the worst I had seen. The boat had to either pass it or drop back several miles against a swift current on the opposite side of an island. However, the boat managed to navigate the middle of the stream, which was difficult and dangerous. We arrived above this spot at dark and camped in a poor location; the mosquitoes and ticks are numerous and bothersome.
[Clark, June 17, 1804]
June 17 1804 Rope walk Camp The Current of the River at this place is a Stick will float 48 poles 6 feet in the rapidest part in 23 Seconds, further out is 34, Still further 65—74—78 & 82 are the Trials we have made.
June 17, 1804 Rope walk Camp The current of the river here is such that a stick will float 48 poles 6 feet in the fastest part in 23 seconds. Further out, it’s 34, and even further, it’s 65—74—78 & 82 are the trials we’ve conducted.
[Clark, June 17, 1804]
June 17 Sunday 1804 Cloudy Wind, S. E. Set out early S. 65° W 1 Me. Came too to Make ores, and a Cord for a Toe Rope all this day imployed in getting out Ores, & makeing for the use of the Boat out of a large Cable rope which we have, G Drewyer Came up a Bear & 2 Deer, also a fine horse which he found in the woods, Supposed to have been left by Some war party from the osages, The Ticks are numerous and large and have been trousom all the way and the Musquetors are beginning to be verry troublesome, my Cold Continues verry bad the French higherlins Complain for the want of Provisions, Saying they are accustomed to eat 5 & 6 times a day, they are roughly rebuked for their presumption, the Country about abounds in Bear Deer & Elk and the S. S. the lands are well timbered and rich for 2 ms. to a butifull Prarie which risies into hills At 8 or 9 ms. back—on the L. S a Prarie coms. on the bank which is high and contines back rich & well watered as far
June 17, Sunday 1804 Cloudy, wind from the southeast. We set out early, heading S. 65° W for 1 mile. Spent the entire day collecting ores and making a cord for a toe rope, using a large cable rope that we have. G. Drewyer came back with a bear and 2 deer, as well as a fine horse he found in the woods, which is believed to have been left by some war party from the Osages. There are many large ticks that have been quite bothersome, and the mosquitoes are starting to become very annoying. My cold is still really bad. The French hired hands are complaining about the lack of provisions, saying they are used to eating 5 or 6 times a day; they are harshly reprimanded for their presumptuousness. The land around here has plenty of bears, deer, and elk, and the south side has well-timbered, rich land for about 2 miles leading to a beautiful prairie that rises into hills. About 8 or 9 miles back, there's a high bank prairie that continues back, rich and well-watered for quite a distance.
[Clark, June 17, 1804]
June 17th Sunday 1804 (S. 65°W. me. S. Side-) Cloudy morning wind from the S. E. we Set out early and proceeded on one mile & came too to make oars, & repair our Cable & toe rope &c. &c. which was necessary for the Boat & Perogues, Sent out Sjt. Pryor and Some men to get ash timber for ores, and Set Some men to make a Toe Rope out of the Cords of a Cable which had been provided by Capt Lewis at Pitts burg for the Cable of the boat—George Drewyer our hunter and one man came in with 2 Deer & a Bear, also a young Horse, they had found in the Prarie, this horse has been in the Prarie a long time and is fat, I suppose he has been left by Some war party against the Osage, This is a Crossing place for the war partis against that nation from the Saukees, Aiaouez, & Souix. The party is much aflicted with Boils and Several have the Decissentary, which I contribute to the water
June 17th, Sunday, 1804 (S. 65°W. me, S. Side-) It was a cloudy morning with a southeast wind. We set out early and traveled one mile before stopping to make oars and repair our cable and tow rope, which were necessary for the boats and pirogues. I sent Sergeant Pryor and some men to gather ash timber for the oars, and I assigned some men to create a tow rope from the cords of a cable that Captain Lewis had brought from Pittsburgh for the boat’s cable. George Drewyer, our hunter, and one man returned with two deer and a bear, along with a young horse they found on the prairie. This horse had been on the prairie for a long time and is in good condition; I suspect it was left behind by a war party heading against the Osage. This area is a crossing point for war parties against that nation from the Saukees, Aiaouez, and Sioux. The group is suffering from boils, and several have dysentery, which I attribute to the water.
The Countrey about this place is butifull on the river rich & well timbered on the S. S. about two miles back a Prarie coms. which is rich and interspursud with groves of timber, the County rises at 7 or 8 miles Still further back and is roleing—on the L. S. the high lands & Prarie Corns. in the bank of the river and Continus back, well watered and abounds in Der Elk & Bear The Ticks & Musquetors are verry troublesom.
The area around this place is beautiful by the river, rich and well-wooded. About two miles inland, there’s a prairie that’s lush and dotted with groves of trees. The land rises at 7 or 8 miles further back and is rolling. On the left side of the river, the highlands and prairie extend into the riverbank and continue back, well-watered and full of deer, elk, and bears. However, the ticks and mosquitoes are very annoying.
[Clark, June 18, 1804]
June 18th Monday Some raind last night, Sent out 6 Hunters to day across the R. they Killed 5 Deer & Colter a Bear verry fat we continue to repare our ropes & make oars all day, heavy rain all the fore pt. of the day, the party Drying meat & greesing themselves, Several men with the Disentary, and two thirds of them with ulsers or Boils, Some with 8 or 10 of those Turners Mesquetors verry bad we finish our Cords & oars this evening Men in Spirits
June 18th, Monday It rained a bit last night. We sent out 6 hunters today across the river; they killed 5 deer and Colter got a very fat bear. We spent all day repairing our ropes and making oars. It rained heavily for the first part of the day. The group is drying meat and greasing themselves up. Several men have dysentery, and two-thirds of them are dealing with ulcers or boils. Some have 8 or 10 of those bad sores. We finished our cords and oars this evening. The men are in good spirits.
[Clark, June 18, 1804]
June 18th Monday Some rain last night, and Some hard Showers this morning which delay our work verry much, Send out Six hunters in the Prarie on the L S. they kill 5 Deer & Coltr a Bear, which verry large & fat, the party to wok at the oars, make rope, & jurk their meat all Day Dry our wet Sales &c. in the evening, The misquiter verry bad
June 18th Monday Some rain last night, and some heavy showers this morning which delayed our work a lot. Sent out six hunters in the prairie on the L.S. They killed five deer and caught a bear, which was very large and fat. The party worked on the oars, made rope, and jerked their meat all day, drying our wet sails, etc. In the evening, the mosquitoes were very bad.
[Clark, June 19, 1804]
June 19th Tuesday rain last night after fixing the new Oars and makeing all necessary arrangements, we Set out under a jentle breese from the S. E. and proceeded on passed two large Islands on the S. S. leaving J. Shields and one man to go by land with the horses Some verry hard water, passed Several Islands & Sand bars to day at the head of one we were obliged to cleare away Driftwood to pass, passed a Creek on the L. Side Called Tabboe 15 yds. wide passed a large Creek at the head of an Island Called Tiger River on the S. S. The Island below this Isd. is large and Called the Isle Of Panters, formed on the S. S. by a narrow Channel, I observed on the Shore Goose & Rasp berries in abundance in passing Some hard water round a Point of rocks on the L. S. we were obliged to take out the roape & Draw up the Boat for 1/2 a mile, we Came too on the L. S. near a Lake of the Sircumfrance of Several miles Situated on the L. S. about two miles from the river this Lake is Said to abound in all kinds of fowls, great quanties of Deer frequent this Lake dureing Summer Season, and feed on the hows &c. &c. they find on the edgers the Lands on the North Side of the river is rich and Sufficiently high to afford Settlements, the Lds. on the South Side assends Gradually from the river not So rich, but of a good quallity and appear well watered
June 19th, Tuesday. It rained last night after we finished fixing the new oars and made all the necessary arrangements. We set out under a gentle breeze from the southeast and continued on, passing two large islands on the south side, leaving J. Shields and one man to go by land with the horses. We encountered some very tough water, passing several islands and sandbars today. At the head of one, we had to clear away driftwood to get through. We passed a creek on the left side called Tabboe, which is 15 yards wide, and then crossed a large creek at the head of an island called Tiger River on the south side. The island below this one is large and known as the Isle of Panthers, formed on the south side by a narrow channel. I noticed plenty of geese and raspberries along the shore. While passing some rough water around a point of rocks on the left side, we had to take out the rope and pull the boat up for half a mile. We stopped on the left side near a lake that’s several miles in circumference, located about two miles from the river. This lake is said to be full of all kinds of birds, and large quantities of deer frequent it during the summer season, feeding on the grass and other vegetation they find along the edges. The land on the north side of the river is rich and sufficiently elevated to allow for settlements, while the land on the south side gently rises from the river, is not as rich but of good quality, and appears well watered.
[Clark, June 20, 1804]
June 20th, Wednesday Set out after a heavy Shower of rain and proceeded on the Same Course of last night passed a large butifull Prarie on the S. S. opposit a large Island, Calld Saukee Prarie, a gentle breese from the S. W. Some butiful high lands on the L. S. passed Som verry Swift water to day, I saw Pelicans to day on a Sand bar, my servant York nearly loseing an eye by a man throwing Sand into it, we came too at the lower Point of a Small Island, the party on Shore we have not Seen Since we passed Tiger R—The Land appeard verry good on each Side of the River to day and well timbered, we took Some Loner observations, which detained us untill 1 oClock a butifull night but the air exceedingly Damp, & the mosquiters verry troublesom
June 20th, Wednesday We set out after a heavy downpour and continued on the same route as last night. We passed a large beautiful prairie on the south side, opposite a big island called Saukee Prairie, with a gentle breeze from the southwest. There were some stunning highlands on the left side, and we encountered some very swift water today. I saw pelicans on a sandbar, and my servant York nearly lost an eye when a man threw sand into it. We stopped at the lower point of a small island; we haven't seen the party on shore since we passed Tiger River. The land on both sides of the river looked very good today and was well-timbered. We took some longer observations, which delayed us until 1 o'clock. It was a beautiful night but the air was extremely damp, and the mosquitoes were very bothersome.
[Clark, June 21, 1804]
21st June Thursday 1804 river raised 3 Inches last night after our bow man Peter Crousat a half Mahar Indian examined round this Small Isd. for the best water, we Set out determined to assd. on the North Side, and Sometimes rowing Poleing & Drawing up with a Strong Rope we assended without wheeling or receving any damige more than breakeing one of my S. Windows, and looseing Some oars which were Swong under the windows
21st June Thursday 1804 The river rose 3 inches last night after our bowman Peter Crousat, who is half-Maharu Indian, checked around this small island for the best water. We set out, determined to head north, and sometimes rowing, sometimes polling, and using a strong rope to pull ourselves up, we made it without turning around or taking any damage other than breaking one of my side windows and losing some oars that swung under the windows.
Two men Sent out to hunt this afternoon Came in with a Deer, at Sun Set The ellement had every appearance of wind, The hunters inform me that the high Countrey on the S. S. is of a good quallity, and well timbd. The High lands on the L. Side is equally good The bottom land on this river is alike, 1st low and covd. with Cotton wood & willows Subject to over flow the 2nd is higher groth Cotton Walnut ash Mulberry Linn & Sycomore
Two men sent out to hunt this afternoon returned at sunset with a deer. The weather looked very windy. The hunters told me that the high country on the south side is of good quality and well-timbered. The highlands on the left side are equally good. The bottom land along this river is similar; the first part is low and covered with cottonwood and willows, subject to flooding. The second part has higher growth with cotton, walnut, ash, mulberry, linden, and sycamore trees.
[Clark, June 21, 1804]
21st June Thursday The river rose 3 Inches last night after the Bows man Peter Crousat viewed The water on each Side of the Island which presented a most unfavourable prospect of Swift water over roleing Sands which rored like an immence falls, we Concluded to assend on the right Side, and with much dificuilty, with the assistance of a long Cord or Tow rope, & the anchor we got the Boat up with out any furthr dang. than Bracking a Cabbin window & loseing Some oars which were Swong under the windows, passed four Isds to day two large & two Small, behind the first large Island two Creeks mouth Called (1) Eue-bert Creek & River & Isd. the upper of those Creeks head against the Mine River & is large, passed a verry remarkable bend in the River to the S. forming an accute angle, the high lands come to the river on the S. S. opposit the upper large Island, this Isd. is formed by a narrow chanel thro. the Pt. of the remarkable bend just mentiond below this Isd. on the L. S. is a Couenter Current of about a mile—passed between Several Small Islands Situated near the L. Side and camped above on the Same Side, Two men Sent out to hunt this evening brought in a Buck & a pore Turkey.
21st June, Thursday The river rose 3 inches last night after the bowman, Peter Crousat, checked the water on each side of the island. It looked very unfavorable, with fast-moving water over rolling sands that roared like a huge waterfall. We decided to navigate on the right side, and with a lot of difficulty, using a long cord as a tow rope and the anchor, we got the boat up without any further danger except for breaking a cabin window and losing some oars that swung under the windows. We passed four islands today—two large and two small. Behind the first large island, there are two creek mouths called (1) Eue-bert Creek and River and Island. The upper of those creeks flows into the Mine River and is large. We passed a very notable bend in the river to the south that forms an acute angle; the highlands come down to the river on the south side, opposite the upper large island. This island is formed by a narrow channel through the point of the remarkable bend mentioned earlier. Below this island, on the left side, is a countercurrent of about a mile. We passed between several small islands situated near the left side and camped above on the same side. Two men sent out to hunt this evening brought back a buck and a poor turkey.
at Sun Set the atmespier presented every appearance of wind, Blue & white Streeks Centering at the Sun as She disappeared and the Clouds Situated to the S. W, Guilded in the most butifull manner. The Countrey and Lands on each Side of the river is various as usial and may be classed as follows. viz: the low or over flown points or bottom land, of the groth of Cotton & Willow, the 2nd or high bottom of rich furtile Soils of the groth of Cotton, Walnut, Som ash, Hack berry, Mulberry, Lynn & Sycamore. the third or high Lands risees gradually from the 2nd bottom (cauht whin it Coms to the river then from the river) about 80 or 100 foot roleing back Supplied with water the Small runs of (which losees themselves in the bottom land) and are covered with a variety of timber Such as Oake of different Kinds Blue ash, walnut &c. &c. as far as the Praries, which I am informed lie back from the river at some places near & others a great Distance
At sunset, the atmosphere looked windy, with blue and white streaks converging at the sun as it set, while the clouds in the southwest were beautifully lit. The countryside and lands on either side of the river are as varied as usual and can be categorized as follows: first, there are the low or flooded areas, or bottomland, where cotton and willow grow; second, the high bottom land with rich, fertile soil supporting cotton, walnut, some ash, hackberry, mulberry, linden, and sycamore; and third, the highlands, which gradually rise from the second bottom (which reaches the river, then extends away from it) about 80 to 100 feet, rolling back and supplied with water from small streams that merge into the bottomland. These areas are covered with a variety of timber such as different kinds of oak, blue ash, walnut, etc., extending all the way to the prairies, which I've been told are located some distance back from the river in some places, and much farther in others.
[Clark, June 22, 1804]
22nd June Friday after a Violent gust of wind accompanied with rain from the West, which commenced at Day brake, and lasted about one hour, we Set out under a gentle Breeze from the N W. and proceeded on S. 14°W. 21/2 ms. to pt. on L. S. Ord Killed a goose, S 25 W 3 Ms. to a pt. on S. S. psd. Snags and Swift water on the S. S.—S. 66° W. 1/2 a me. on S pt. N 60 W 41/2 me. to pt. L. S. passed a large Isd. on the S. S.- (Ferenthiers Thermometr at 3 oClock P.M. 87 d which is 11 d above Summr heat) and one on the L. S. opposit against which there is a handsom Prarie of high Bottom & up Land, Capt Lewis went out in this Prarie & walked Several miles, Come to opposit the mouth of a large Creek on the S. S. Called River of the Fire Prarie at the mouth of this creek the party on Shore Shields & Collins was camped waiting for our arrival & inform that they Pass'd thro Some fine Lands, and well watered G D. Killed a fine Bear to day
June 22nd, Friday, after a strong gust of wind and rain from the west that started at dawn and lasted about an hour, we set out under a light breeze from the northwest and proceeded south 14° west for 2.5 miles to a point on the left side. Ord killed a goose, then we continued south 25° west for 3 miles to a point on the south side, passing snags and fast water on the south side. We then traveled south 66° west for half a mile to the southern point, then north 60° west for 4.5 miles to a point on the left side. We passed a large island on the south side—(Fahrenheit thermometer at 3 PM was 87°F, which is 11°F above summer heat)—and one on the left side opposite, against which there is a beautiful prairie of high bottomland and upland. Captain Lewis went out into this prairie and walked several miles, coming to the mouth of a large creek on the south side called River of the Fire Prairie. At the mouth of this creek, the party on shore, Shields and Collins, was camped waiting for our arrival and informed us that they passed through some fine lands that are well-watered. G.D. killed a nice bear today.
[Clark, June 22, 1804]
22nd June Friday river rose 4 Inchs last night. I was waken'd before day light this morning by the guard prepareing the boat to receve an apparent Storm which threttened violence from the West at day light a violent wind accompanied with rain cam from the W. and lasted about one hour, it Cleared away, and we Set out and proceeded on under a gentle breeze from the N. W. passed Some verry Swift water Crouded with Snags, pass two large Island opposit each other, and immediately opposit a large & extensive Prarie on the Labd Side, This Prarie is butifull a high bottom for 11/2 a mile back and risees to the Common leavel of the Countrey about 70 or 80 feet and extends back out of view. Capt. L walked on Shore a few miles this after noon (at 3 oClock P M. Ferents Thermometer Stood at 87°: = to 11 d above Summer heat) we came to on the L. Side opposit the mouth of a large Creek Called the River of the Fire Prarie, at the mouth of this Creek the Party on Shore were waiting our arrival, they informed that the Lands thro which they passed was fine & well watered
22nd June, Friday. The river rose 4 inches last night. I was woken up before dawn this morning by the guard preparing the boat to face an imminent storm that threatened to hit from the west. At dawn, a strong wind with rain came from the west and lasted about an hour. It cleared up, and we set out, making progress under a gentle breeze from the northwest. We passed some very swift water filled with snags, and two large islands across from each other, right opposite a large and expansive prairie on the left side. This prairie is beautiful, a high bottom for a mile and a half back, rising to the common level of the country about 70 or 80 feet and extending out of sight. Captain L walked onshore a few miles this afternoon (at 3 PM, Ferrent's thermometer read 87°, which is about 11 degrees above summer heat). We stopped on the left side opposite the mouth of a large creek called the River of the Fire Prairie. At the mouth of this creek, the party on shore was waiting for our arrival; they informed us that the land they passed through was fine and well-watered.
[Clark, June 23, 1804]
23rd June Satturday Some wind this morning from the N W. Set out at 7 oC Proceeded on N. 70 d. W 2 Ms. to an Isd. Close on the S. S. I went on Shore & walked up thro a rich bottom for about Six miles, Killed a Deer & much fatigued N. 75 E. to a point in a bend L. S. 11/2 the river fell 8 Inches last night.
23rd June Saturday Some wind this morning from the NW. Set out at 7 o'clock. Proceeded on N. 70° W 2 miles to an island. Close on the S. S. I went ashore and walked through a rich bottom for about six miles, killed a deer, and was pretty tired. N. 75° E. to a point in a bend, L. S. 1.5 the river dropped 8 inches last night.
[Clark, June 23, 1804]
23rd June Satturday Some wind this morning from the N. W. we Set out at 7 oClock, and proceeded on to the head of a Island on the S. S. the wind blew hard and down the river which prevented the Pty moveing from this Island the whole day, Cap. Lewis had the arms examined &c. at the lower end of this Island I got out of the boat to walk on Shore, & expected the party on Shore would overtake me at the head of the Island, they did not & I proceeded on round a round and extensive bend in the river, I Killed a Deer & made a fire expecting the boat would Come up in the evening. the wind continueing to blow prevented their moveing, as the distance by land was too great for me to return by night I concluded to Camp, Peeled Some bark to lay on, and geathered wood to make fires to Keep off the musquitor & Knats. Heard the party on Shore fire, at Dark Drewyer came to me with the horses, one fat bear & a Deer, river fell 8 Inches last night
June 23, Saturday There was some wind this morning from the northwest. We set out at 7 o'clock and continued towards the head of an island on the south side. The wind was strong and blowing downriver, which kept the party from moving from this island for the entire day. Captain Lewis had the weapons examined, etc. At the lower end of the island, I got out of the boat to walk on shore and expected the group on shore would catch up with me at the head of the island. They didn't, so I moved on around a large and wide bend in the river. I killed a deer and made a fire, expecting the boat would come up in the evening. However, the ongoing wind prevented them from moving. Since the distance by land was too far for me to return by night, I decided to camp. I peeled some bark to lay on and gathered wood to make fires to keep off the mosquitoes and gnats. I heard the group on shore firing at dusk. Drewyer came to me with the horses, one fat bear, and a deer. The river fell 8 inches last night.
[Lewis and Clark, June 24, 1804]
Sunday June 24th set out at 1/2 after six continuing the course on the Lard. side N. 80 E 1/4 of a mile to point Lard. N. 551/4 of a mile to point Lard. Due west to a point Stard 3 miles good water
Sunday, June 24th, left at 6:30, continuing the route on the Lard side, heading N. 80 E for a quarter of a mile to point Lard. Then N. 55 for a quarter of a mile to point Lard. From there, I went due west to a point Stard, covering 3 miles of good water.
(I joined the Boat theis morning with a fat Bear & two Deer, last evining I Struck the river about 6 miles (by land) abov the Boat, and finding it too late to get to the Boat, and the wind blowing So hard Down the river that She could not assend, I concluded to Camp, altho I had nothing but my hunting Dress, & the Musquitors Ticks & Knats verry troublesom, I concid to hunt on a Willow Isd. Situated close under the Shore, in Crossing from an Island, I got mired, and was obliged to Craul oat, a disegreeable Situation & a Diverting one of any one who Could have Seen me after I got out, all Covered with mud, I went my Camp & Craped off the Mud and washed my Clothes, and fired off my gun which was answered by George Drewyer who was in persute of me & came up at Dark we feasted of meet & water the latter we made great use of being much fatigued & thirsty—The meet which hung up near the water a large Snake made Several attempts to get to it and was so Detirmined that I Killed him in his attempt, the Snake appeared to make to that part of the meet which Contained the milk of a Doe, On this part of the River I observe great quantites of Bear Sign, they are after Mulbiries which are in great quantities)
(I joined the boat this morning with a big bear and two deer. Last evening, I reached the river about 6 miles (by land) upstream from the boat, and since it was too late to get to the boat and the wind was blowing so hard down the river that it couldn’t go upstream, I decided to camp. Even though I only had my hunting clothes, and the mosquitoes, ticks, and gnats were very bothersome, I decided to hunt on a willow island situated close to the shore. While crossing from an island, I got stuck in the mud and had to crawl out, which was an unpleasant situation and quite a sight for anyone who could have seen me after I got out, all covered in mud. I made my way back to my camp, scraped off the mud, washed my clothes, and fired my gun, which was answered by George Drewyer, who was pursuing me and caught up at dark. We feasted on meat and water; we made great use of the water since we were exhausted and thirsty. The meat, which was hanging near the water, attracted a large snake that made several attempts to get to it and was so determined that I killed him during his attempt. The snake seemed particularly interested in the part of the meat that contained the milk of a doe. In this part of the river, I noticed a lot of bear signs; they seem to be after the mulberries, which are abundant here.)
N 85 d W. 41/2 ms. to a pt. on L Side, Came to above the mouth of a Creek on the L. S. abt. 20 yds. Wide Called Hay Cabbin Creek Latd. of this place is 38° 37'5" North—Capt. Lewis took Sergt. Floyd and walked on Shore, George Drewyer Killed 2 Deer R Fields Killed a Deer dureing the time we wer Jurking the meet I brought in, West 1/2 ml. along the L. S.
N 85 d W. 4.5 miles to a point on the left side, we arrived above the mouth of a creek on the left side, about 20 yards wide, called Hay Cabin Creek. The latitude of this location is 38° 37'5" North. Captain Lewis took Sergeant Floyd and walked along the shore, while George Drewyer killed 2 deer and R. Fields killed a deer during the time we were jerking the meat I brought in, heading west for 0.5 miles along the left side.
S 21° W. 3 ms. to a pt. on the S. S. pass 2 Creek on the S. S. just above Some rocks Some distance from Shore 1 of These Creek is Called Sharriton-Cartie, a Prarie on the L. S. near the river. Capt Lewis Killed a Deer, & Collins 3. emince number of Deer on both Sides of the river, we pass between two Sand bars at head of which we had to raise the boat 8 Inch to get her over, Camped at the Lower point of a Isd. on the L S. the Party in high Spirits.
S 21° W. 3 miles to a point on the south side, passing two creeks on the south side just above some rocks some distance from the shore. One of these creeks is called Sharriton-Cartie, a prairie on the left side near the river. Captain Lewis killed a deer, and Collins spotted a considerable number of deer on both sides of the river. We passed between two sandbars at the head of which we had to raise the boat 8 inches to get it over. Camped at the lower point of an island on the left side, the party was in high spirits.
[Clark, June 24, 1804]
24th, June Sunday Set out at half after Six. I joined the boat this morng at 8 oClock (I will only remark that dureing the time I lay on the band waiting for the boat, a large Snake Swam to the bank imediately under the Deer which was hanging over the water, and no great distance from it, I threw chunks and drove this Snake off Several times. I found that he was So determined on getting to the meet I was Compelld to Kill him, the part of the Deer which attracted this Snake I think was the milk from the bag of the Doe.) I observed great quts. of Bear Signs, where they had passed in all Directions thro the bottoms in Serch of Mulberries, which were in great numbers in all the bottoms thro which our party passed.)
24th, June, Sunday Set out at 6:30 AM. I joined the boat this morning at 8:00 AM. I’ll just mention that while I was lying on the bank waiting for the boat, a large snake swam to the shore right beneath the deer that was hanging over the water, not far from it. I threw chunks to scare the snake away several times. I noticed he was so intent on getting to the meat that I had to kill him. I believe the part of the deer that attracted the snake was the milk from the doe's bag. I observed a lot of bear signs where they had passed in all directions through the lowlands searching for mulberries, which were abundant in all the areas our party passed through.
Passed the mouth of a Creek 20 yds. wide name Hay Cabbin Creek from camps of Straw built on it came to about 1/2 me. above this Creek & jurked, the meet killed yesterday and this morning Lattitude of this place 38° 37' 5" N. Capt. Lewis walked on Shore & Killed a Deer, pass a bad part of the river, on the S. S. the rocks projected into the river Some distance, a Creek above Called Sharston Carta, in the evening we Passed thro betwen two Sand bars at the head we had to raise the Boat 8 Inches together over, Camped near the lower point of an Island on the L. Side, party in high Spirrits. The Countrey on each Side of the river is fine interspersed with Praries, in which imence herds of Deer is Seen, on the banks of the river we observe numbers of Deer watering and feeding on the young willow, Several Killed to day
Passed the mouth of a creek 20 yards wide called Hay Cabin Creek. From camps built on it, we traveled about half a mile above this creek and jerked the meat we killed yesterday and this morning. The latitude of this place is 38° 37' 5" N. Capt. Lewis walked on shore and killed a deer, passing a difficult stretch of the river. On the south side, the rocks jutted into the river for some distance. There's a creek above called Sharston Carta. In the evening, we passed through between two sandbars at the head, where we had to lift the boat 8 inches to get over. We camped near the lower point of an island on the left side, and the party was in high spirits. The land on each side of the river is nice, dotted with prairies where massive herds of deer can be seen. On the riverbanks, we noticed several deer drinking water and feeding on the young willows. Several were killed today.
[Clark, June 25, 1804]
Monday June 25th a heavy fog Detaind us about an hour Set out passed the Isd on a course from the last point S 49° W, 3 Ms to a point on the S. S. S 55° W 1/2 Me. S. S. a Coal-Bank on the opposit or L. S Side, this bank appears to Contain great quantity of excellente CoaL the wind from the N. W a Small Creek Called Coal or (Chabonea)3 N 50° W to the Pt, L. S. 31/2 Miles Hard water & logs, Bank falling in, Passed a Small Creek L. S. Called Labeenie a Prarie is Situated on the S. S. a Short Distance from the river, which contains great quantities of wild apples of the Size of the Common apple, the French Say is well flavered when ripe, which is the time the leaves begin to fall N 70°W 1/2 me. along the right Side of a Willow Isd. Situated on the L. Side S. 80° W 1/2 me. L. S. S 55° W. 1/2 me. to Pt. of Smal Isd. L. S. S 15° W 1/2 me. L. S.—S. 2° E 2 me. pt on Lbd S. (here I will only remark that the Deer in the Morning & evening are feeding in great numbers on the banks of the River, they feed on young willow, and amuse themselves running on the open beeches or points) We have hard water this afternoon round the heads of Small Islds. on the L. Side below a Small High Prarie S. 48° W. 2 Ms. pt. S. S. passd. a small Isd. on which we Camped The party on Shore did not join us to day, or have we Seen or her of them river falling fast about 8 Inches in 24 hours, the Hills on the L. S. this evening higher than usial about 160 or 180 feet. the lands appear of a Simalier to those passed
Monday, June 25th, a heavy fog delayed us for about an hour. We set out and passed the island on a course of S 49° W for 3 miles to a point on the south side, then S 55° W for 1/2 mile to a coal bank on the opposite left side. This bank seems to hold a large quantity of excellent coal. The wind was from the NW as we made our way to a small creek called Coal (or Chabonea) N 50° W to the point on the left side, 3 1/2 miles away. The water was hard, and there were logs with the bank eroding. We passed a small creek on the left side called Labeenie. A prairie is located on the south side a short distance from the river, which has many wild apples about the size of common apples. The French say they taste good when ripe, which is when the leaves start to fall. We went N 70° W for 1/2 mile along the right side of a willow island, situated on the left side, then S 80° W for 1/2 mile on the left side. From there, we went S 55° W for 1/2 mile to the point of a small island on the left side, then S 15° W for 1/2 mile on the left side, and finally S 2° E for 2 miles to a point on the left bank. (Here, I’ll just note that the deer in the morning and evening are feeding in large numbers on the riverbanks; they eat young willow and entertain themselves by running on the open beaches or points.) We encountered hard water this afternoon around the heads of small islands on the left side below a small high prairie, heading S 48° W for 2 miles. We passed another small island where we set up camp. The party onshore did not join us today, nor have we seen or heard from them. The river is dropping quickly, about 8 inches in 24 hours. The hills on the left side this evening are higher than usual, around 160 to 180 feet. The land seems similar to what we’ve passed.
[Clark, June 25, 1804]
25th, June Monday a thick fog detained us untile 8 oClock, passed a Island, at 3 miles passed a Coal-mine, or Bank of Stone Coal, on the South Side, this bank appears to Contain great quantity of fine Coal, the river being high prevented our Seeeing that contained in the Cliffs of the best quallity, a Small Creek mouth's below This bank Call'd after the bank Chabonea Creek the Wind from the N. W. passed a Small Creek on the L. Side at 12 oClock, Called Bennet's Creek The Praries Come within a Short distance of the river on each Side which Contains in addition to Plumbs Raspberries & vast quantities of wild apples, great numbs. of Deer are seen feeding on the young willows & earbage in the Banks and on the Sand bars in the river. our party on Shores did not join us this evening we Camped on an Island Situated on the S. Side, opposit some hills higher than Common, Say 160 or 180 feet above the Bottom. The river is Still falling last night it fell 8 Inches
On June 25th, Monday, a thick fog held us back until 8 o'clock. We passed an island and, three miles later, spotted a coal mine, or a bank of stone coal, on the south side. This bank seems to have a large amount of good-quality coal, but the high river level prevented us from seeing what's in the cliffs. A small creek mouth below this bank is called Chabonea Creek. The wind was coming from the northwest. At noon, we passed another small creek on the left side called Bennett's Creek. The prairies come quite close to the river on both sides, and in addition to plums and raspberries, there are huge amounts of wild apples. We saw many deer feeding on the young willows and vegetation along the banks and sandbars in the river. Our group on shore didn't join us this evening, so we camped on an island located on the south side, across from some hills that are taller than normal, about 160 to 180 feet above the bottom. The river is still falling; last night it dropped 8 inches.
[Clark, June 26, 1804]
June 26th Tuesday 1804 we Set out early, the river falling a little, the wind from the S. W. Passed the mouth of a Small river on the L. Side above the upper point of a Small Island, Called Blue water river, this river heads in Praries back with the Mine River about 30 yds. wide Lattitude of a pt. 4 ms. above this river is 38° 32' 15" North, the high lands which is on the Northe Side does not exceed 80 feet high, at this Place the river appears to be Confd. in a verry narrow Channel, and the Current Still more So by Couenter Current or Whirl on one Side & high bank on the other, passed a Small Isd. in the bend to the L. Side we Killed a large rattle Snake, Sunning himself in the bank passed a bad Sand bar, where our tow rope broke twice, & with great exertions we rowed round it and Came to & Camped in the Point above the Kansas River lobserved a great number of Parrot queets this evening, our Party Killed Several 7 Deer to day
June 26th, Tuesday, 1804. We set out early, the river was falling a bit, with the wind coming from the southwest. We passed the mouth of a small river on the left side, just above the upper point of a small island called Blue Water River. This river comes from the prairies and connects with the Mine River, which is about 30 yards wide. The latitude of a point 4 miles above this river is 38° 32' 15" North. The highlands on the north side are no more than 80 feet high. Here, the river looks very narrow and the current is even stronger due to counter currents or whirlpools on one side and a high bank on the other. We passed a small island in the bend on the left side and killed a large rattlesnake sunning itself on the bank. We encountered a challenging sandbar where our tow rope broke twice, and with a lot of effort, we managed to row around it and camped on the point above the Kansas River. This evening, I noticed a large number of parakeets, and our party killed several deer today.
[Clark, June 27, 1804]
June 27th, Wednesday a fair warm morning, the river rose a little last night. we determin to delay at this Place three or four Days to make observations & recruit the party Several men out Hunting, unloaded one Perogue, and turned her up to Dry with a view of repairing her after Completeing a Strong redoubt or brest work frome one river to the other, of logs & Bushes Six feet high, The Countrey about the mouth of this river is verry fine on each Side as well as the North of the Missouries the bottom, in the Point is low, & overflown for 250 yards. it rises a little above high water mark and Continus up that hight of good quallity back to the hills ____ A high Clift, on the upper Side of the Kansis 1/2 a mile up below the Kanses the hills is about 11/2 miles from the point on the North Side of the Missouries the Hill or high lands is Several miles back, we compareed the instrmts Took equal altitudes, and the Meridian altituade of the Suns L L to day Lattitude 38° 31' 13" Longitude ____ Measured The width of the Kansas River by an angle and made it 230 yds 1/4 wide, it is wider above the mouth the Missouries at this place is about 500 yards wide, The Course from the Point down the midle. of the Missourie is S. 32° E, & turns to the North. up is N 21°W. up the right side of the Kansas is S. 54° E, & the river turns to the left, Several Deer Killed to day.
June 27th, Wednesday, a pleasantly warm morning. The river rose a bit last night. We decided to stay here for three or four days to make observations and restock supplies. Several men went hunting, unloaded one canoe, and turned it upside down to dry, planning to repair it after completing a strong redoubt or breastwork made of logs and bushes six feet high from one river to the other. The land around the mouth of this river is very nice on both sides, as well as the north side of the Missouri. The low-lying area at the point is flooded for 250 yards, rising a bit above high-water mark and continuing up that height of good quality back to the hills. There’s a high cliff on the upstream side of the Kansas, half a mile down from the Kansas. The hills are about a mile and a half from the point on the north side of the Missouri. The elevated land is several miles back. We compared the instruments, took equal altitudes, and measured the meridian altitude of the sun today, with a latitude of 38° 31' 13" and an undetermined longitude. We measured the width of the Kansas River with an angle and found it to be 230 yards wide. It is wider above the mouth. The Missouri at this place is about 500 yards wide. The course from the point down the middle of the Missouri is S. 32° E and then turns north. Upstream is N 21° W. The right side of the Kansas is S. 54° E, and the river turns to the left. Several deer were killed today.
[Clark, June 28, 1804]
28 June Thursday took equal altitudes &c. &c. &c. & varaitian of the Compass repaired the Perogue Cleaned out the Boat Suned our Powder wollen articles examined every thing 8 or 10 huntrs. out to day in different direction, in examineing our private Store of Provisions we found Several articles Spoiled from the wet or dampness they had received, a verry warm Day, the wind from the South, The river Missourie has raised yesterday last night & to day about 2 foot. this evening it is on a Stand, Capt. Lewis weighed the water of the Two rivers The Missouris 78° The Kansais 72° To Describe the most probable of the various accounts of this great river of the Kansas, would be too lengthy & uncertain to insert here, it heads with the river Del Norid in the black Mountain or ridge which Divides the waters of the Kansas Del Nord, & Callarado & oppsoitly from those of the Missoureis (and not well assertaind) This River recves its name from a nation which dwells at this time on its banks & 2 villages one about 20 Leagues & the other 40 Leagues up, those Indians are not verry noumerous at this time, reduced by war with their neighbours, &c. they formerly liveid on the South banks of the Missouries 24 Leagues above this river in a open & butifull plain and were verry noumerous at the time the french first Settled the Illinois, I am told they are a fierce & warlike people, being badly Supplied with fire arms, become easily conquered by the Aiauway & Saukees who are better furnished with those materials of war, This nation is now out in the plains hunting the Buffalow our hunters Killed Several Deer and Saw Buffalow, men impd Dressing Skins & makeing themselves Comfortable, the high lands Coms to the river Kanses on the upper Side at about a mile, full in view, and a butifull place for a fort, good landing place, the waters of the Kansas is verry disigreeably tasted to me.
28 June Thursday took equal altitudes, etc. The variation of the compass was adjusted, and we cleaned out the boat. We dried our powder and checked our woolen items, examining everything. Eight or ten hunters went out today in different directions. While checking our private stash of provisions, we found several items spoiled from the wetness. It was a very warm day with a southerly wind. The Missouri River rose about 2 feet yesterday and last night; today it has stabilized. This evening, Captain Lewis measured the water temperature of the two rivers: the Missouri was 78° and the Kansas was 72°. To describe the various accounts of this great river, the Kansas, would be too lengthy and uncertain to include here. It originates with the Del Norte River in the Black Mountain or ridge, which separates the waters of the Kansas, Del Norte, and Colorado from those of the Missouri (though this is not well established). This river is named after a group of people currently living along its banks, with two villages—one about 20 leagues and the other 40 leagues upstream. These Indians are not very numerous at the moment, having diminished due to wars with their neighbors, etc. They used to live on the southern banks of the Missouri River, 24 leagues above this river, in an open and beautiful plain, and were quite numerous when the French first settled in Illinois. I've heard they are fierce and warlike, but poorly supplied with firearms, making them easily conquered by the Iowa and Sauk tribes, who are better equipped for war. This nation is now out in the plains hunting buffalo. Our hunters killed several deer and saw buffalo, while the men were busy dressing skins and making themselves comfortable. The highlands approach the Kansas River on the upper side at about a mile, fully in view, and it's a beautiful spot for a fort, with a good landing place. However, I find the waters of the Kansas to have a very unpleasant taste.
[Clark, June 29, 1804]
29th of June 1804, Set out from the Kansas river 1/2 past 4 oClock, proceeded on passed a Small run on the L. S. at 1/2 Mile a (1) Island on the S. S. at 11/2 me. Hills above the upr. pt of Isd. L. S. a large Sand bar in the middle. Passed a verry bad place of water, the Sturn of the Boat Struck a moveing Sand & turned within 6 Inches of a large Sawyer, if the Boat had Struck the Sawyer, her Bow must have been Knocked off & in Course She must hav Sunk in the Deep water below Came to & camped on the S. S. late in the eveninge.
June 29, 1804, Left the Kansas River at 4:30 PM, continued on and passed a small stream on the left side about half a mile in, and an island on the right side about a mile and a half ahead. There were hills above the upper point of the island, and a large sandbar in the middle. We passed through a really tough spot in the water; the stern of the boat hit a moving sandbank and turned within six inches of a large submerged tree. If the boat had hit the tree, the front would have been damaged and it would have definitely sunk in the deep water below. We stopped and camped on the right side late in the evening.
[Clark, June 29, 1804]
29th June Friday obsvd. the distance of (D & )),took Equal & maridinal altd. and after makeing Some arrangements, and inflicting a little punishment to two men we Set out at 1/2 past 4 oClock and proceeded on (i ) passed a large Island on the S. Side, opposit a large Sand bar, the Boat turned and was within Six Inches of Strikeing the rapidity with which the Boat turned was so great that if her bow had Struck the Snag, She must have either turned over or the bow nocked off S W wind
29th June, Friday, observed the distance of (D & )), took equal & marginal altitude, and after making some arrangements and giving a little punishment to two men, we set out at 4:30 o'clock and continued on (i) passed a large island on the south side, opposite a large sandbar. The boat turned and was within six inches of hitting; the speed at which the boat turned was so great that if the bow had hit the snag, it would have either capsized or knocked off the bow.
[Clark, June 29, 1804]
Camp mouth of the Kanseis June 29th 1804. Ordered a Court martial will Set this day at 11 oClock, to Consist of five members, for the trial of John Collins and Hugh Hall, Confined on Charges exhibited against them by Sergeant Floyd, agreeable to the articles of War.
Camp Mouth of the Kanseis, June 29, 1804. A court-martial has been ordered to convene today at 11 o'clock, consisting of five members, to trial John Collins and Hugh Hall, who are being held on charges brought against them by Sergeant Floyd, in accordance with the Articles of War.
Detail for the Court
Sergt Nat. Pryor presd.
Sgt. Nat. Pryor presd.
mbs: 2 John Colter 3 John Newmon 4 Pat. Gass 1 J. B. Thompson
mbs: 2 John Colter 3 John Newmon 4 Pat. Gass 1 J. B. Thompson
John Potts to act as judge advocate.
John Potts is appointed as the judge advocate.
The Court Convened agreeable to order and proceeded to the trial of the Prisoners Viz John Collins Charged "with getting drunk on his post this morning out of whiskey put under his Charge as a Sentinal and for Suffering Hugh Hall to draw whiskey out of the Said Barrel intended for the party"
The Court met as scheduled and moved forward with the trial of the prisoners, specifically John Collins, who was charged "with getting drunk on duty this morning from whiskey he was supposed to guard as a sentinel and for allowing Hugh Hall to take whiskey from the barrel meant for the group."
To this Charge the prisoner plead not guilty.
The prisoner pleaded not guilty to this charge.
The Court after mature deliveration on the evidence abduced &c. are of oppinion that the prisoner is Guilty of the Charge exibited against him, and do therefore Sentence him to recive one hundred Lashes on his bear Back.
The Court, after careful consideration of the evidence presented, is of the opinion that the prisoner is guilty of the charge brought against him, and therefore sentences him to receive one hundred lashes on his bare back.
Hugh Hall was brought with "takeing whiskey out of a Keg this morning which whiskey was Stored on the Bank (and under the Charge of the guard) Contrary to all order, rule, or regulation"
Hugh Hall was caught "taking whiskey out of a keg this morning, which whiskey was stored on the bank (and under the guard's supervision) contrary to all orders, rules, or regulations."
To this Charge the prisoner "Pleades Guilty."
To this charge, the prisoner pleads guilty.
The Court find the prisoner guilty and Sentence him to receive fifty Lashes on his bear Back.
The Court finds the prisoner guilty and sentences him to receive fifty lashes on his bare back.
The Commanding Officers approve of the Sentence of the Court and orders that the Punishment take place at half past three this evening, at which time the party will Parrade for inspection-
The Commanding Officers approve the Court's Sentence and order that the Punishment take place at 3:30 this evening, when the party will line up for inspection.
[Clark, June 29, 1804]
at the Mouth of the River Kansies June 26" 27" 28 & 29th- This river is 366 miles above the mouth of Missouri it is in Lattitude 38° 31' 13" North
at the Mouth of the River Kansies June 26, 27, 28 & 29 - This river is 366 miles upstream from the mouth of the Missouri River. It is located at Latitude 38° 31' 13" North
it is 230 yds. wide at its mouth & wider above from the point up the Missourie for about 3 ms. N. 21° W, Down the Middle of the Missourie is S. 32° E, up the upper bank of the Kansais, is S. 54° E the river turns to the East above a pt. of high land, well Situated for a fort & in view of the Missouris one mile up & on the upper Side, the width of the Missouris at this place is about 500 yds.
it is 230 yards wide at its mouth and wider upstream from the point along the Missouri for about 3 miles N. 21° W. Down the middle of the Missouri is S. 32° E, and along the upper bank of the Kansas, it is S. 54° E. The river bends to the east above a point of high land, which is well suited for a fort and overlooks the Missouri about one mile upstream. The width of the Missouri at this spot is about 500 yards.
Missourie Water weighs 78. The Kanseis weghs 72 river Miss raised in the time at the Kanseis 2 foot and begun to fall.
Missouri water weighs 78. Kansas weighs 72. The river in Missouri rose 2 feet and has started to fall.
The wood land on each side of the Mouth of this river is extensive and of a good quallity as far as our hunters was back, but badly watered with Springs, only two being Seen by them
The woodland on either side of the mouth of this river is vast and of good quality as far as our hunters went back, but it lacks sufficient springs for water, with only two being spotted by them.
Some punishment of two men Hall & Collins for takeing whiskey out of the Barrel last night agreeable to the Sentences of a Court Mtl of the party who we have always found verry ready to punish Such Crimes
Some punishment for two men, Hall and Collins, for taking whiskey out of the barrel last night, in accordance with the sentences from a military court of the party, which has always been very willing to punish such crimes.
Many Deer Killed to day
Many deer killed today
Allarm post or order of Battle arms to be Situated & the Duty &c. Messes of men under a Serjiant who is to detail for every day one man of his Squad to Cook &c. who Shall have the management of the provisions dureing that day or issue, each Days rations must be divided &c. &c Order of encampment, Tents, fires & Duty
All alarm post or order of battle arms to be situated & the duty & etc. Groups of men under a Sergeant who is to assign one member of his squad each day to cook & etc., who will manage the provisions for that day or issue. Each day's rations must be divided & etc. & etc. Order of encampment, tents, fires & duty.
[Clark, June 30, 1804]
30th June, Set out verry early this Morng Saw a verry large wolf on the Sand bar this morning walking near a gange of Turkeys (1) at 10 miles above the Kansis passed the mouth of a Small River Call the (Petite Plate) or the little Shole river, this river is about 70 yds. Wide and has Several rapids & falls, well Calculatd for mills, the land on this river is Said to be Roaling, Killed 2 Deer Bucks Swinging the river the wind from the S. W. here we opened the Bag of Bread given us by which we found verry good, our Bacon which was given us by we examined and found Sound and good Some of that purchased in the Illinois Spoiled, a relish of this old bacon this morning was verry agreeable, Deer to be Seen in every direction and their tracks ar as plenty as Hogs about a farm, our hunts. Killed 9 Deer to day the land below the last river is good, that above, between the two rivers which is near together is Slaik'y and bad on the N. Side, the other Side is good land, Landed on the L. S. below an Isd called Dimond Island
30th June, Set out very early this morning. Saw a very large wolf on the sandbar this morning walking near a group of turkeys (1) 10 miles above the Kansas River. Passed the mouth of a small river called the Petite Plate or the Little Shoal River. This river is about 70 yards wide and has several rapids and falls, well-suited for mills. The land along this river is said to be rolling. Killed 2 deer bucks while swinging along the river. The wind was from the southwest. Here, we opened the bag of bread given to us, which we found very good. We examined the bacon given to us and found it sound and good. Some of the bacon we purchased in Illinois spoiled, but the old bacon was quite enjoyable this morning. Deer were visible in every direction, and their tracks were as plentiful as pigs in a farm. Our hunts today led us to kill 9 deer. The land below the last river is good, while the land above, between the two rivers, which are close together, is muddy and poor on the north side. The other side has good land. We landed on the left side below an island called Diamond Island.
[Clark, June 30, 1804]
30th June Satturday 1804 Set out verry early this morning, a verry large wolf Came to the bank and looked at us this morning, passd the (1) mouth of a Small river 10 ms. above the Kanseis Called by the french Petite River Platte (or Shoal river) from the number of falls in it, this river is about 60 yards wide at its mouth and runs Parrilel with the Missouries for ten or twelve miles, I am told that the lands on this Small river is good, and on its Several falls well Calculated for mills, the wind from S. W. came to at 12 oClock & rested three hours, the... being hot the men becom verry feeble, Farnsts. Thermometer at 3 oClock Stood at 96° above 0, emence numbs. of Deer on the banks, Skipping in every derection, the party Killed nine Bucks on the river & Bank to day, The Countrey on the S. S. between the Shoal River & Missouris is indifferent Subject to overflow, that below and on the L. S. is high & appers well timbered, Camped on the L. S. opsd. the Lower point of a Isd. Called diamond Island, Broke our mast
30th June Saturday 1804 We set out very early this morning. A large wolf came to the bank and watched us. We passed the mouth of a small river 10 miles above the Kansas, called by the French Petite River Platte (or Shoal River) because of the number of falls in it. This river is about 60 yards wide at its mouth and runs parallel with the Missouri for ten or twelve miles. I’ve heard the land along this small river is good, and the various falls are well-suited for mills. The wind came from the southwest at noon, and we rested for three hours. Since it was hot, the men became very weak. Farnst’s thermometer at 3 o’clock stood at 96°F. There were immense numbers of deer on the banks, skipping in every direction. The party killed nine bucks on the river and the bank today. The country on the south side between the Shoal River and Missouri is poor and prone to flooding, but the land below and on the left side is high and well-timbered. We camped on the left side across from the lower point of an island called Diamond Island and broke our mast.
[Clark, July 1, 1804]
July 1st 1804, last night one of the Sentinals Chang'd either a man or Beast, which run off, all prepared for action, Set out early passed the Dimond Isd. pass a Small Creek on the L. S. as this Creek is without name we Call it Biscuit Creek Brackfast on the upper point of a Sand beech, The river still falling a little a verry warm Day. I took Some medison last night which has worked me very much party all in helth except Boils-
July 1st, 1804. Last night, one of the sentinels spotted either a man or a beast that ran off. We were all ready for action and set out early, passing the Diamond Island, then a small unnamed creek on the left side, which we decided to call Biscuit Creek. We had breakfast at the upper point of a sandy beach. The river is still dropping a little, and it's a very warm day. I took some medicine last night that affected me quite a bit; everyone else is healthy except for me with some boils.
passed a Sand bar in the river above the Isd. Covered for a me. with Drift Wood, Came to Capt Lewis took Medn. altitude & we delayed three hours, the day being excessively hot, Turkeys are plenty on the Shore, G. Drewyer inform that he Saw PueCanns Trees on S. S. yesterday great quantities of raspburies an Grapes, (2) pass a Creek on the L. S. called remore (Tree Frog) Creek, an Isd above in the Mid. and 2 Willow Isds on the S. S. all of the Same name; The two Willow Isds. has been made within 3 years & the Main Chant. runs now on the L S. of the large Island where there was no runing water at low water from this Island the range of Hills up the river to the N, W, pass a run on the L. S. a Butifull extensive Prarie, Two Islands just above Called (Isles des Parques) or Field Islands, those Islands are, one of our French hands tels me that the French intended to Settle here once & brought their Cows and put them on those Islands, Mr Mackey Says the first village of the Kanseis was a little above this Island & made use of as fields, no trace of anything of that Kind remains to be Seen on the Isds. fine Land on the L. Side, Hills near the river all day, Camped on the lower pot. of 1st Isd.-
We passed a sandbar in the river above the island, covered with driftwood. We arrived at Captain Lewis, who took the altitude readings, and we delayed for three hours because it was extremely hot. There are plenty of turkeys on the shore. G. Drewyer informed us that he saw pecan trees on the south side yesterday, along with great quantities of raspberries and grapes. We passed a creek on the left side called Remore (Tree Frog) Creek, an island in the middle, and two willow islands on the south side, all with the same name. The two willow islands have formed within the last three years, and the main channel now runs along the left side of the large island, where there was no running water at low tide. From this island, the range of hills extends up the river to the northwest. We passed a stream on the left side, and there is a beautiful, extensive prairie. Two islands above are called Isles des Parques, or Field Islands. One of our French crew members told me that the French intended to settle here once and brought their cows to those islands. Mr. Mackey mentioned that the first village of the Kansa tribe was just above this island and was used as fields, but no trace of anything like that remains on the islands. There is fine land on the left side, with hills near the river all day. We camped on the lower part of the first island.
[Clark, July 1, 1804]
July 1st, Sunday 1804 a Small allarm last night all prepared for action, Set out early this morning passed on the North Side of Dimond Island, a Small Creek mouths opposit I call Biscuit Creek,—a large Sand bar in the middle of the river 11/2 ms. above the Isd. Covered with Drift wood. river fall a little. The wind from S. W. Came to above this Drift and delayed three hours to refresh the men who were verry much over powered with the heat, Great quantity of Grapes & raspberries, (2) passed a Small Creek on the L. S. below one large and two small Islands. This Creek and Isds. are Called Remore (or Tree Frog) a large Pond on the S. S., the main Current of Water run'g on the L. S. of the Island, I am told that Three years ago the main Current run on the S. S. of the Island and no appearance of the two Smaller Islands, Camped on the lower point of one of the two large & 2 Small Isds. Called Isles des Parques or field Islds a high butifull Prarie on the L. S. one of the french hands Says "that the french Kept their Cattle & horses on those Islands at the time they had in this quarter a fort & trading establishment."
July 1st, Sunday, 1804: A small alarm last night; we were all prepared for action. We set out early this morning and passed on the north side of Diamond Island, where a small creek empties, which I named Biscuit Creek. There’s a large sandbar in the middle of the river, about 1.5 miles above the island, covered with driftwood. The river level has fallen a bit. The wind was coming from the southwest. We stopped above the drift and delayed for three hours to give the men a chance to rest, as they were really overwhelmed by the heat. There were a lot of grapes and raspberries. We passed a small creek on the left side below one large island and two small islands. This creek and the islands are called Remore (or Tree Frog). There’s a large pond on the south side, and the main current flows on the left side of the island. I was told that three years ago, the main current flowed on the south side of the island, with no sign of the two smaller islands. We camped on the lower point of one of the two large islands and two small islands, called Isles des Parques or Field Islands. There’s a high, beautiful prairie on the left side. One of the French hands said that the French kept their cattle and horses on those islands when they had a fort and trading post in this area.
paecaun Trees Seen on the S. S. Deer and turkeys in great quantities on the bank
paecaun Trees Seen on the S. S. Deer and turkeys in great numbers on the bank
[Clark, July 2, 1804]
July the 2nd 1804 Set out verry early this morning passd on the Left of the Isles des parques High butifull Situation—on the L S. the land indifferent lands a Creek coms in on the S. S. Called parques, all at once the river became Crowded with drift that it was dangerous to cross this I Suppose was from the caveing in of the banks at the head of Some Island above, (3) passed a Creek on the L. S. called Turquie or Turkey Creek passed a verry bad Sand bar on the L. S. the 20 Oars & Poals could with much dificuelty Stem the Current, passed a large Island on the S. S. Called by the Inds. Wau-car-ba war-con-da or the Bear Medison Island, at 12 oClock came to on the Island and put in a mast, detained four hours, exceedingly hot, wind in forepart of the day from the S. E, George Drewyer informs that the Lands he pass through yesterday & to day on the S. S. was generally Verry fine he Saw two Springs of fresh water near the Island, Deer Sign has become So Common it is hardly necessary to mention them, we Camped after dark on the S. S. opposit the 1st old Village of the Kanzas which was Situated in a Valley between two points of high land, on the river back of their village commenced an extensive Prarie a large Island in front which appears to have made on that Side and thrown the Current of the river against the place the Village formerly Stood, and washes away the bank in that part. The french formerly had a Fort at this place, to protect the trade of this nation, the Situation appears to be a verry elligable one for a Town, the valley rich & extensive, with a Small Brook Meanding through it and one part of the bank affording yet a good Landing for Boats The High Lands above the Fere river on each Side of the Missouries appear to approach each other much nearer than below that plaice, being from 3 to 6 miles between them, to the Kansas, above that place from 3 to 5 Ms. apart and higher Some places being 160 or 180 feet the river not So wide We made a Mast of Cotton wood, to day in the Course of the evening & night it turned of a butifull red Colour
July 2nd, 1804. We set out very early this morning, passing on the left of the Isles des Parques, which has a high, beautiful location. On the left side, the land is mediocre, and a creek comes in on the south side, called Parques. Suddenly, the river became crowded with driftwood, making it dangerous to cross. I suppose this was due to the erosion of the banks at the head of some island upstream. We passed a creek on the left side called Turquie or Turkey Creek and encountered a very bad sandbar on the left side. The twenty oars and poles struggled to push against the current. We passed a large island on the south side known to the Indians as Wau-car-ba war-con-da, or Bear Medicine Island. At noon, we stopped at the island to put in a mast, and we stayed for four hours. It was extremely hot, with the wind coming from the southeast for most of the day. George Drewyer informed me that the lands he passed through yesterday and today on the south side were generally very nice, and he saw two springs of fresh water near the island. Signs of deer have become so common that it's hardly worth mentioning. We camped after dark on the south side, opposite the first old village of the Kanzas, which was situated in a valley between two high points of land. Behind their village, there was a wide prairie, and a large island in front seemed to have formed on that side, pushing the current of the river against the spot where the village once stood and washing away the bank there. The French once had a fort in this location to protect the trade of this nation. The site seems very suitable for a town, with a rich and extensive valley, a small brook winding through it, and one part of the bank providing a good landing for boats. The highlands above the Fere River on both sides of the Missouri appear to come much closer together than below that area, with distances ranging from three to six miles between them at the Kanzas, while above that location, they are three to five miles apart and higher, some places reaching 160 to 180 feet. The river is not as wide. We made a mast of cottonwood today, and during the evening and night, it turned a beautiful red color.
[Clark, July 2, 1804]
July 2nd, 1804 Set out early and proceeed on the left of the islands, two of which are large a high bottom Situated on the L. S. passed the mouth of a Creek on the S. S. Called Turquie Creike, at this place I observed that the river was Crouded with Drift wood, and dangerous to pass as this dead timber Continued only about half an our, I concluded that Some Island of Drift had given way (3) passed a Creek on the L. S. called Turky Creek, a bad Sand bar on the L. S. we could with dificuelty Stem the Current with our 20 oars & and all the poles we had, passed a large Island on the S. S. Called by the Indians Wau-car-ba war-cand-da or the Bear Medesin Island, at 12 oClock landed on the Island & put up a mast which detained us four hours—a verry hot day winds from the S. E.—George Drewyer inform's that the Lands he passed through yesterday and to day on the S. S. was verry fine, few Springs, we Camped after dark on the S. S. above the Island & opposit the 1st old village of the Kanzes which was Situated in a valley, between two points of high Land, and imediatly on the river bank, back of the village and on a riseing ground at about one mile The French had a garrison for Some time and made use of water out of a Spring running into Turkey Creek. an extensive Prarie, as the Current of the river Sets against the banke and washes it away the landing place for Boats is indifferent—The high lands above the Fire river, approaches nearer each than below, being from 3 to 6 miles distant and above Kansas from 3 to 5 miles distant and the Hills at Some places are from 160 to 180 feet above the bottom
July 2nd, 1804 We set out early and proceeded along the left side of the islands, two of which are large and high. We passed the mouth of a creek on the south side called Turkey Creek. Here, I noticed that the river was filled with driftwood, making it dangerous to pass. This dead timber lasted for only about half an hour, so I concluded that some island of drift had given way. We passed a creek on the left side called Turkey Creek, where there was a bad sandbar. With difficulty, we managed to fight the current using all 20 oars and the poles we had. We passed a large island on the south side known by the Indians as Wau-car-ba war-cand-da or the Bear Medicine Island. At 12 o'clock, we landed on the island and put up a mast, which delayed us for four hours on a very hot day with winds from the southeast. George Drewyer reported that the land he passed through yesterday and today on the south side was very nice, with few springs. We camped after dark on the south side above the island, opposite the first old village of the Kansans, which was located in a valley between two points of high land and right on the riverbank. Behind the village, on rising ground about a mile away, the French had a garrison for some time and drew water from a spring flowing into Turkey Creek. The area features an extensive prairie, and as the river's current pushes against the bank, it erodes it, making the landing for boats poor. The high lands above the Fire River are closer to the river than those below, being 3 to 6 miles away, and above Kansas, they are 3 to 5 miles away, with some hills rising 160 to 180 feet above the river bottom.
[Clark, July 3, 1804]
July 3rd 1804 Set out verry early this morning and proceeded on under a gentle Breeze from the South passed two Islands one a Small Willow Island on the L. S. (1) The other a large Island Called Cow 1. (Isle Vache), this Island is large, opposit to the head on the S. S. is a (2) large Pond, a Bad Sand bar on the S. S. we attemptd without Success, & was oblige to Cross back, I Saw a White horse on the L. S. in view of the upper point of the Island, (3) passed a large Sand bar at the S. point, we halted to day about a mile above the Island and found a horse, which had been lost by the Indians, verry fat and jentle, Sent him on to join the others which was ahead on the L S at this place, the french had a tradeing house, for to trade with the Kanzes on a high bottom on the L. S. near the hills which is Prarie proceeded on round a large Sand bar on the L. S. & Camped (opposit a large Sand bar in the middle of the river). on the L. S. a Butifull Small Stream passes back of the trading house, before mentioned
July 3rd, 1804 We set out very early this morning and continued on with a gentle breeze from the south. We passed two islands—one a small Willow Island on the left side and the other a large island called Cow Island (Isle Vache). This island is big, and opposite its head on the south side is a large pond. There's a troublesome sandbar on the south side that we tried to cross without success, so we had to go back. I saw a white horse on the left side near the upper point of the island. We passed a large sandbar at the south point and stopped today about a mile above the island, where we found a horse that had been lost by the Indians. It was very fat and gentle, so I sent it ahead to join the others that were already on the left side. Here, the French had a trading post to trade with the Kansas people, located on a high bottom on the left side near the hills, which is prairie. We continued around a large sandbar on the left side and camped opposite a big sandbar in the middle of the river. On the left side, a beautiful small stream flows behind the trading post I mentioned earlier.
[Clark, July 3, 1804]
July 3rd, Tusday 1804 Set out verry early this morning and proceeded on under a gentle Breeze from the S. passed two Islands (1) one a Small willow Island on the L. S. the other large Called by the french Isle de Vache or Cow Island, opposit the head on the S. S. is a large Pond Containg Beever, & fowl, a bad Sandbar on the S. S. above the Island, on the L. S. we halted at an old Tradeing house, here we found a verry fat horse, which appears to have been lost a long time a butifull Small run passes back of the Tradeing house near the high land, we came to at a round bend on the L. S. and Camped
July 3rd, Tuesday, 1804. We set out very early this morning and continued on under a gentle breeze from the south. We passed two islands: one is a small willow island on the left side, and the other is a large one called by the French Isle de Vache, or Cow Island. Opposite the head on the south side, there’s a large pond containing beavers and birds. There’s a bad sandbar on the south side above the island. On the left side, we stopped at an old trading house. Here, we found a very fat horse that seems to have been lost for a long time. A beautiful small stream runs behind the trading house near the high land. We arrived at a round bend on the left side and set up camp.
[Clark, July 4, 1804]
July 4th Wednesday 1804, Set out early passed the mouth of a Beyeue leading from a Lake on the S. S. this Lake is large and was once the bend of the River, it reaches Parrelel for Several miles, Came to on the L. S. to Dine & rest a Short time, a Snake bit Jo. Fields on the Side of his foot which Swelled much, apply Barks to the wound, pass a Creek on the L. S. about 15 yards wide cuming out of an extensive Prarie as this Creek has no name, and this day is the 4th of July, we name this Independance us. Creek above this Creek the wood land is about 200 yards, back of those wood is an extensive Prarie open and high, which may be Seen six or seven below—Saw great Nos. of Goslins to day nearly Grown, the last mentioned prarie I call Jo Fields Snake Prarie, Capt Lewis walked on Shore & Saw a large moun & 3 roads leading We Camped in the plain one of the most butifull Plains, I ever Saw, open & butifully diversified with hills & vallies all presenting themselves to the river covered with grass and a few scattering trees a handsom Creek meandering thro at this place the Kansaw Inds. formerly lived and had a verry large Town passed a Creek (4) I observed Spring braking out of the bank, a good Situation for a fort on a hill at the upper part
July 4th, Wednesday, 1804. We set out early and passed the mouth of a creek leading from a lake on the south side. This lake is large and was once the bend of the river; it runs parallel for several miles. We stopped on the left side to have lunch and rest for a short time. Joe Fields got bitten by a snake on the side of his foot, which swelled up significantly, so we applied some bark to the wound. We crossed a creek on the left side that is about 15 yards wide, coming out of an extensive prairie. Since this creek has no name and today is July 4th, we decided to name it Independence Creek. Above this creek, the woodland is about 200 yards back, and behind those woods lies a vast, open prairie that can be seen six or seven miles away. We saw a large number of nearly grown goslings today. I named the last mentioned prairie Joe Fields’ Snake Prairie. Captain Lewis walked on shore and saw a large mound and three roads leading from it. We camped in the plain, one of the most beautiful plains I have ever seen, open and beautifully varied with hills and valleys all presenting themselves to the river, covered with grass and a few scattered trees, with a lovely creek meandering through it. This was once the home of the Kansas Indians, where they had a very large town. We passed a creek and I noticed springs breaking out of the bank, a great spot for a fort on a hill at the upper part.
The Plains of this countrey are covered with a Leek Green Grass, well calculated for the sweetest and most norushing hay-interspersed with Cops of trees, Spreding ther lofty branchs over Pools Springs or Brooks of fine water. Groops of Shrubs covered with the most delicious froot is to be seen in every direction, and nature appears to have exerted herself to butify the Senery by the variety of flours Delicately and highly flavered raised above the Grass, which Strikes & profumes the Sensation, and amuses the mind throws it into Conjecterng the cause of So magnificent a Senerey in a Country thus Situated far removed from the Sivilised world to be enjoyed by nothing but the Buffalo Elk Deer & Bear in which it abounds & Savage Indians
The plains of this country are covered with lush green grass, perfect for producing the best hay, mixed with patches of trees spreading their tall branches over pools, springs, or streams of clear water. Groups of shrubs filled with delicious fruit can be seen in every direction, and nature seems to have worked hard to beautify the scenery with a variety of delicate and fragrant flowers rising above the grass, which captivates the senses and intrigues the mind, leading one to wonder about the cause of such magnificent scenery in a place so far removed from the civilized world, enjoyed only by buffalos, elk, deer, bears, and the fierce Native Americans who inhabit it.
The names of the french Ingishees, or Hirelens-
The names of the French Ingishees, or Hirelens-
in Perogue
1 Battist de Shone Patrn
2 Joseph Le bartee
3 Lasoness
4 Paul Preemau
5 Chalo
6 E. Cann
7 Roie
8 Charlo Cougee
in the large Boat
*J. Le bartee
Rivee
bow men
Pieter Crousatt half Indian
William La Beice Mallat
3 Sergts. & 23 men for the Boat
George Drewyer. Hunter & 4 Horses
1 Corpl & 4 Privates in a Perogue to be Sent back from Plate
river
Mr. Dueron inteptr for the Sues Capt. Lewis my Self & York
in all 46 men July 4th 4 horses & a Dog
```
in Perogue
1 Battist de Shone Patrn
2 Joseph Le bartee
3 Lasoness
4 Paul Preemau
5 Chalo
6 E. Cann
7 Roie
8 Charlo Cougee
in the large Boat
*J. Le bartee
Rivee
bow men
Pieter Crousatt, half Indian
William La Beice Mallat
3 Sergts. & 23 men for the Boat
George Drewyer, Hunter & 4 Horses
1 Corpl & 4 Privates in a Perogue to be Sent back from Plate
river
Mr. Dueron, inteptr for the Sues, Capt. Lewis, myself & York
in all 46 men, July 4th, 4 horses & a Dog
```[Clark, July 4, 1804]
July 4th Wednesday ussered in the day by a discharge of one shot from our Bow piece, proceeded on, passed the mouth of a (1) Bayeau lading from a large Lake on the S. S. which has the apperance of being once the bed of the river & reaches parrelel for Several Miles Came to on the L. S. to refresh ourselves &. Jos. Fields got bit by a Snake, which was quickly doctered with Bark by Cap Lewis. (2) Passed a Creek 12 yds. wide on L. S. comeing out of an extensive Prarie reching within 200 yards of the river, as, this Creek has no name, and this being the we Dine (on corn) the 4th of July the day of the independance of the U. S. call it 4th of July 1804 Creek, Capt. Lewis walked on Shore above this Creek and discovered a high moun from the top of which he had an extensive view, 3 paths Concentering at the moun Saw great numbers of Goslings to day which Were nearly grown, the before mentioned Lake is clear and Contain great quantities of fish an Gees & Goslings, The great quantity of those fowl in this Lake induce me to Call it the Gosling Lake, a Small Creek & Several Springs run in to the Lake on the East Side from the hills the land on that Side verry good—(3) We came to and camped in the lower edge of a Plain where 2d old Kanzas village formerly Stood, above the mouth of a Creek 20 yds wide this Creek we call Creek Independence as we approached this place the Praree had a most butifull appearance Hills & Valies interspsd with Coops of Timber gave a pleasing deversity to the Senery. the right fork of Creek Independence Meandering thro the middle of the Plain a point of high Land near the river givs an allivated Situation. at this place the Kanzas Indians formerley lived. this Town appears to have covd. a large Space, the nation must have been noumerous at the time they lived here, the Cause of their moveing to the Kanzas River, I have never heard, nor Can I learn; war with their neghbors must have reduced this nation and Compelled them to retire to a Situation in the plains better Calculated for their defence and one where they may make use of their horses with good effect, in persueing their enemey, we Closed the by a Discharge from our bow piece, an extra Gill of whiskey.
On July 4th, Wednesday, we started the day with a single shot from our cannon. We continued on and passed the mouth of a bayou leading from a large lake on the south side, which looked like it used to be the riverbed and stretches parallel for several miles. We stopped on the left side to take a break, and Jos. Fields got bitten by a snake, which Captain Lewis quickly treated with some bark. We crossed a creek that was 12 yards wide on the left side, coming out of a large prairie that reached within 200 yards of the river. Since this creek has no name and we had corn for lunch on the 4th of July, the day of American independence, we named it 4th of July 1804 Creek. Captain Lewis walked along the shore above this creek and found a high mountain from where he had a wide view; three paths converged at this mountain. We saw a lot of goslings today that were almost fully grown. The lake mentioned earlier is clear and has plenty of fish, geese, and goslings. The large number of birds in this lake made me decide to call it Gosling Lake. A small creek and several springs flow into the lake from the east side, and the land on that side is very good. We set up camp on the edge of a plain where an old Kanzas village used to stand, above the mouth of a creek that is 20 yards wide. We named this creek Creek Independence. As we approached this area, the prairie looked beautiful, with hills and valleys interspersed with clumps of timber creating a pleasing variety in the scenery. The right fork of Creek Independence winds through the middle of the plain, and a high point of land near the river provides a raised location. This was once where the Kanzas Indians lived. The town seems to have covered a large area, indicating the nation must have been numerous when they lived here. I’ve never heard why they moved to the Kanzas River, nor can I find out; it seems war with their neighbors might have forced them to retreat to an area in the plains that was better suited for defense and where they could effectively use their horses to pursue enemies. We finished the day with a shot from our cannon and an extra shot of whiskey.
[Clark, July 5, 1804]
July the 5th 1804 Set out verry early this morning, Swam the horse across the river, proceeded on for two miles under the bank where the old Kansas town formerly stood The Cause of those people moveing from this place I cannot learn, but naterally conclude that War has reduced their nation & compelled them to retire further into the Plains with a view of defending themselves & opposeing their enemey (more effectuall) on hors back (I neglected to mention yesterday that the Lake on the S. S. was large Say 3/4 me. wide & 7 or 8 long one creek & Several brooks running into it from the hills, it contains Great quantities of Sun fish & Gosling's from which we gave it the name,) passed Some verry bad Sand bars Situated parrelel to each other, (1) the Boat turned three times once on the ____ of a Drift wood. She recved no proceiviable damage, we came to for Dinner at a Beever house, Cap Lewis's Dog Seamon went in & drove them out. the high Lands on the L. S. is open, a few trees Scattering (2) passed a Small Creek on the L. S. in the 1s bend to the left I call yellow oaker creek from a bank of that Mineral just above. we camped on the L. S. under a high bank Latd. 39° 25' 41" North
July 5, 1804 Set out very early this morning. Swam the horse across the river and continued for two miles along the bank where the old Kansas town used to be. I can't find out why those people moved from this area, but I naturally assume that war has weakened their nation and forced them to retreat further into the Plains to better defend themselves and fight back against their enemy (more effectively) on horseback. (I forgot to mention yesterday that the lake on the south side was large—about ¾ mile wide and 7 or 8 miles long—with one creek and several brooks flowing into it from the hills. It has great quantities of sunfish and goslings, which is how we named it.) We passed some really bad sandbars that were parallel to each other. The boat capsized three times, once because of driftwood, but it sustained no significant damage. We stopped for lunch at a beaver house, and Cap Lewis's dog, Seamon, went in and chased them out. The highlands on the left side are open with a few scattered trees. We passed a small creek on the left side at the first bend to the left, which I named Yellow Oaker Creek because of the bank of that mineral just above it. We camped on the left side under a high bank. Latitude 39° 25' 41" North.
on the banks of this river I observe great quants of Grapes, berries & roses Deer is not So plenty in this three days past as they were below that. Elks are plenty about those Praries. Some Buffalow Sign.
On the banks of this river, I see large quantities of grapes, berries, and roses. Deer haven't been as abundant in the past three days as they were further down. Elks are plentiful in those prairies. There are some signs of buffalo.
[Clark, July 5, 1804]
July 5th Thursday 1804 Set out verry early, proceeded on near the bank where the old village Stood for two miles, (Swam the hors found a few days ago) passed Some bad Sand bars, The Origan of this old village is uncertain M. de Bourgmont a French officer who Comdd. a fort near the Town of the Missouris in about the year 1724 and in July of the Same year he visited this Village at that time the nation was noumerous & well desposed towards the french Mr. Du Pratz must have been badly informed as to the Cane opposd this place we have not Seen one Stalk of reed or cane on the Missouries, he States that the "Indians that accompanied M De Bourgmont Crossed to the Canzes Village on floats of Cane"
July 5th, Thursday, 1804. We set out very early and traveled along the bank where the old village once stood for two miles. (We swam the horse found a few days ago.) We passed some bad sandbars. The origin of this old village is uncertain. M. de Bourgmont, a French officer who commanded a fort near the town of the Missouris around 1724, visited this village in July of that same year. At that time, the nation was numerous and well-disposed towards the French. Mr. Du Pratz must have been misinformed about the cane near this place; we have not seen a single stalk of reed or cane in the Missouris. He states that "the Indians who accompanied M. de Bourgmont crossed to the Canzes Village on floats of cane."
Those people must have been verry noumerous at that time as Mr. De B. was accompanied by 300 Warriers, 500 young people & 300 Dogs of burthen out of this Village
Those people must have been very numerous at that time as Mr. De B. was accompanied by 300 warriors, 500 young people, and 300 pack dogs from this village.
The Cause of Those Indians moveing over to the Kanzis river I have never lernt—we passed Some bad Sand bars, Situated parrelel to each other (1) The Boat turned twice on the quick Sand & once on a raft of Drift, no procievable damage Prarie Contine on the high land on the L. S. passd a Small Creek (2) on L. S. in the first bend to the L S. I call Yellow-Oaker Creek from a quantity of that Mineral in a bank a little above
The reason those Indians moved over to the Kansas River has always been a mystery to me—we encountered some bad sandbars that were lined up next to each other. The boat got stuck on the quicksand twice and once on a raft of driftwood, but thankfully there was no noticeable damage. The prairie continues on the high land on the left side. We passed a small creek on the left side in the first bend, which I named Yellow-Oaker Creek because of the large amount of that mineral found in a bank just a bit upstream.
The river Continue to fall a little—I observe great quantities of Summer & fall Grapes, Berries & Wild roases on the banks—Deer is not so plenty as usual, great Deel of Elk Sign. (Wind from S E)
The river continues to drop slightly—I notice a lot of summer and fall grapes, berries, and wild roses along the banks. Deer aren’t as plentiful as usual, but there are plenty of elk signs. (Wind from SE)
[Clark, July 6, 1804]
6th July Friday. We Set out early this morning & Proceeded on (the river falls Slowly) wind S. W) passed a Sand bar in 1st bend to the right (1) passed a Small Island at the S. pt. a verry warm day (worthy of remark that the water of this river or Some other Cause, I think that the most Probable throws out a greater preposn. of Swet than I could Suppose Could pass thro the humane body Those men that do not work at all will wet a Shirt in a Few minits & those who work, the Swet will run off in Streams) opposit the 3rd point passed a Prarie on the S. S. Called Reeveys Prarie (fro a man of that name being Killed in it) opposit this Prarie the river is Confined in a verry narrow Space Crowded on S. S. by Sands which were moveing and difficuelt to pass. the Hunts. Sent in 3 Deer Jurked on the 4th point of to day is a Small Island & a Sand bar 2 miles out in the river, this is Called the Grand Bend, or Grande de Tour, I walked on this Sand bar found it a light Sand intersperced with Small Pebbles of various Kinds, also pit Coal of an excellent quallity was lodged on the Sand, We camped on the L. S. at a small creek a whiper will perched on the boat for a Short time, I gave his name to the Creek
6th July Friday. We set out early this morning and proceeded on (the river flows slowly, wind from the southwest). We passed a sandbar in the first bend to the right, then a small island at the south point. It was a very warm day. Notably, the water of this river, or some other cause, seems to produce a greater amount of sweat than I would have thought possible for the human body. Those who don’t work at all can soak a shirt in just a few minutes, and those who do work see sweat flowing off in streams. Opposite the third point, we passed a prairie on the south side called Reevey's Prairie (named after a man of that name who was killed there). Opposite this prairie, the river narrows significantly, crowded on the south side by moving sands that are difficult to pass. The hunters sent in three deer. At the fourth point of today, there is a small island and a sandbar two miles out in the river, known as the Grand Bend, or Grande de Tour. I walked on this sandbar and found it to be light sand mixed with small pebbles of various kinds; also, pit coal of excellent quality was lodged on the sand. We camped on the left side at a small creek where a whipper will perched on the boat for a short time. I named the creek after him.
[Clark, July 6, 1804]
July 6th, Friday We Set out early this morning, wind from the S. W. passed a large Sand bar in the 1st. bend to the right. (1) passed a Small Island at the S. point opposit the 3rd point we passed a Prarie on the S. S. Called Reeveys Prarie at this place the river is Confined in a verry narrow Channel Crouded by a Sand bar from the L. Point This Sand bar from the L. Point, this Sand bar is verry bad, at the 4th Point from the S. S. is a verry extensive bar, at the Point of which is a Small willow Island this is Called the Grand Detour or Great bend
July 6th, Friday We set out early this morning, with the wind coming from the southwest. We passed a large sandbar in the first bend to the right. (1) We went by a small island at the south point opposite the third point, where we passed a prairie on the south side known as Reevey's Prairie. At this location, the river is squeezed into a very narrow channel, crowded by a sandbar from the left point. This sandbar from the left point is quite troublesome; at the fourth point from the south side, there is a very extensive sandbar, at the tip of which is a small willow island. This area is called the Grand Detour or Great Bend.
I walked on this Sand bar and found the Sand was light, with Collection of Small pebble, & some Pit Coal I observe that the men Swet more than is Common from Some Cause, I think the Missouries water is the principal Cause our hunters Sent in 3 Bucks today The river Still fall a little
I walked on this sandbar and found the sand was light, with a collection of small pebbles and some pit coal. I noticed that the men were sweating more than usual for some reason; I think the Missouri water is the main cause. Our hunters sent in three bucks today. The river is still falling a little.
[Clark, July 7, 1804]
7th of July Satturday 1804 Set out early passed Some verry Swift water on the L. S. which Compelled us to Draw up by the Cord. a verry warm morning, passed a butifull Prarie on the right Side which extends back, those Praries has much the appearance from the river of farms, Divided by narrow Strips of woods those Strips of timber grows along the runs which rise on the hill & pass to the river a Cleft above, one man sick (Frasure) Struck with the Sun, Saw a large rat on the Side of the bank, Killed a wolf on the Bank passed (2) a verry narrow part of the river, all confined within 200 yards, a yellow bank above, passed a Small willow Island on the S. point, (in Low water those Small Willow Islands are joined to the Sand bars makeing out from the Points) a pond on the S. S near the prarie we passed yesterday in which G D. Saw Several young Swans we Came to and Camped on the L. S. and two men Sent out last evening with the horses did not join us this evening agreeable to orders—a hard wind with Some rain from the N, E at 7 oClock which lasted half an hour, with thunder & lightning. river fall a little
7th of July, Saturday, 1804 We set out early and passed some very swift water on the left side, which forced us to tow alongside. It was a very warm morning, and we passed through a beautiful prairie on our right, stretching far back. From the river, these prairies look a lot like farms, divided by narrow strips of woods. The strips of timber grow along the creeks that rise on the hills and flow into the river a bit upstream. One man, Frasure, got sick from the heat. We saw a large rat on the riverbank and killed a wolf on the bank. We passed a very narrow part of the river, which is all confined within 200 yards, with a yellow bank above. We passed a small willow island on the south point; during low water, these small willow islands connect to the sandbars that extend out from the points. There was a pond on the south side near the prairie we passed yesterday, where G D. saw several young swans. We stopped and camped on the left side, but two men we sent out last evening with the horses did not return to us as expected. A strong wind came up with some rain from the northeast at 7 o'clock, lasting about half an hour, accompanied by thunder and lightning. The river is dropping a little.
[Clark, July 7, 1804]
July the 7th Satturday 1804 Set out early passed Some Swift water, which obliged us to draw up by roapes, a Sand bare at the point opposit a butifull Prarie on the S. Side Calld. (1) St. Michul, those Praries on the river has verry much the appearence of farms from the river Divided by narrow Strips of wood land, which wood land is Situatd. on the runs leading to the river. passed a Bluff of yellow Clay above the Prarie. Saw a large rat on the bank. Killed a Wolf. at 4 oClock pass a Verry narrow part of the river water Confd. in a bead not more than 200 yards wide at this place the Current runs against the L. Side. no Sand to Confine the Current on the S. S. passed a Small sand Island above the Small Islds. Situated at the points, in low water form a part of the Sand bars makeing out from those points
July 7th, Saturday, 1804 We set out early and passed through some fast-moving water, which forced us to pull the boat along by ropes. There was a sandbar at the point across from a beautiful prairie on the south side called St. Michul. The prairies along the river look a lot like farmland, divided by narrow strips of woodland that are located along the streams flowing into the river. We passed a bluff made of yellow clay above the prairie. I saw a large rat on the bank and killed a wolf. At 4 o'clock, we came to a very narrow part of the river where the water was confined to a channel no more than 200 yards wide. Here, the current runs against the left side, with no sand to contain the current on the south side. We passed a small sand island above the smaller islands, which, during low water, form part of the sandbars extending out from those points.
Incamped on the S. S. at 7 oClock a Violent Ghust of wind from the N. E. with Some rain, which lasted half an hour (G D. informs me that he Saw in a Pond on the S. S. which we passed yesterday; a number of young Swans-,) one man verry Sick, Struck with the Sun, Capt. Lewis bled him & gave Niter which has revived him much
In camp on the S. S. at 7 o'clock, a strong gust of wind came from the N.E., bringing some rain that lasted half an hour. (G.D. tells me he saw a number of young swans in a pond on the S. S. that we passed yesterday.) One man was very sick, affected by the heat. Capt. Lewis bled him and gave him niter, which has helped him a lot.
[Clark, July 8, 1804]
8th of July Sunday Set out early this morning, the Sick man much better, Serjt. Oddeway was waiting at a Creek on the S. S. below an Island, passed (1) two Island on the S. S. and came to at the upper point, G Drewyer went out R. Fields & Guterich, five men Sick to day with a violent Head ake &c. and Several with Boils, we appoint a Cook to each mess to take Charge of the Provisions. in Serjt. Pryor's = Collens in Sjt. Ordway's Werner in Sergt. Floyd's Thompson, The french men Killed a young Deer on the Bank, (2) passed up a narrow Channel of about 80 or 100 yds wide about 5 miles to the mouth of Nadawa River which corns in to this channel from the N W. and is abt. 70 yards wide at its mouth ____ feet Deep and has a jentle Current, Perogues can navagate this river near its head, which is between the Missourie & the Grand River, passed up the gut 3/4 of a mile to the river at the head of the Island & camped opposit the head of this Island is another nearest the Middle R this Island Nadawa is the largest I have Seen, formed by a Channel washing into the Nadawa river.—"8 or 10000 acrs"
8th of July, Sunday Set out early this morning; the sick man is feeling much better. Sergeant Ordway was waiting at a creek on the south side, below an island. We passed two islands on the south side and stopped at the upper point. G. Drewyer went out, along with R. Fields and Guterich. Five men are sick today with severe headaches and several with boils. We appointed a cook for each group to manage the provisions: in Sergeant Pryor's group, it's Collens; in Sergeant Ordway's, it's Werner; in Sergeant Floyd's, it's Thompson. The Frenchmen killed a young deer on the bank. We passed up a narrow channel about 80 to 100 yards wide for about five miles to the mouth of the Nadawa River, which comes into this channel from the northwest and is about 70 yards wide at its mouth, ____ feet deep, with a gentle current. Perogues can navigate this river near its head, which is located between the Missouri and the Grand River. We passed up the gut for ¾ of a mile to the river at the head of the island and camped opposite the head of this island. There is another island nearest the middle river. This island, Nadawa, is the largest I have seen, formed by a channel washing into the Nadawa River—“8 or 10,000 acres.”
[Clark, July 8, 1804]
July the 8th Sunday 1804 Set out early passed a Small Creek on the S. S. and two (1) Small Islands on the S S. five men Sick to day with a violent head ake &c. we made Some arrangements as to provisions & Messes, came to for Dinner at the lower point of a very large Island Situated near the S. S. after a delay of two hours we passed a narrow channel of 45 to 80 yds wide five miles to the mouth of (3) Nkdawa River, This river Coms in from the North and is navagable for Perogues Some distance. it is about 70 yards wide a little above the mouth, at the mouth not So wide, the mud of the Gut running out of the Missourie is thrown and Settles in the mouth half a mile higher up this Channel or gut is the upper point of the Said Island, This Island is Called Nadawa, & is the largest I have Seen in the river, containing 7 or 8000 acres of Land Seldom overflowed we Camped at the head of this Island on the S. S. opposit the head or our Camp is a Small Island near the middle of the river, river Still falling. our flank party did not join us this evening
July 8th, Sunday, 1804. We set out early and passed a small creek on the south side along with two small islands on the same side. Five men were sick today with bad headaches, among other things. We made some arrangements regarding provisions and messes, and stopped for dinner at the lower point of a large island situated near the south side. After a two-hour delay, we navigated a narrow channel that was 45 to 80 yards wide, five miles to the mouth of the Nkdawa River. This river flows in from the north and is navigable for canoes for some distance. It's about 70 yards wide just above the mouth, but not as wide at the mouth since the mud from the Missouri River settles there. Half a mile upstream, this channel or gut forms the upper point of the aforementioned island. This island is called Nadawa and is the largest I've seen in the river, covering 7,000 to 8,000 acres of land that rarely floods. We camped at the head of this island on the south side. Opposite the head of our camp is a small island near the middle of the river, which is still falling. Our flank party did not join us this evening.
[Lewis, July 8, 1804]
Detachment Orders Nadawa Island July 8th 1804.- In order to insure a prudent and regular use of all provisions issued to the crew of the Batteaux in future, as also to provide for the equal distribution of the same among the individuals of the several messes, The Commanding Officers Do appoint the following persons to recieve, cook, and take charges of the provisions which may from time to time be issued to their respective messes, (viz) John B. Thompson to Sergt. Floyd's mess,
Detachment Orders Nadawa Island July 8th, 1804.- To ensure a careful and organized use of all provisions given to the crew of the Batteaux going forward, and to guarantee equal distribution among the members of the various messes, the Commanding Officers appoint the following individuals to receive, cook, and take charge of the provisions that may be issued to their respective messes: (viz) John B. Thompson to Sergeant Floyd's mess,
William Warner to Sergt. Ordway's mess, and John Collins to Sergt. Pryor's Mess.—These Superintendants of Provision, are held immediately respon sible to the commanding Officers for a judicious consumption of the provi sion which they recieve; they are to cook the same for their several messes in due time, and in such manner as is most wholesome and best calculated to afford the greatest proportion of nutriment; in their mode of cooking they are to exercise their own judgment; they shall allso point out what part, and what proportion of the mess provisions are to be consumed at each stated meal (i. e.) morning, noon and night; nor is any man at any time to take or consume any part of the mess provisions without the privity, knowledge and consent of the Superintendant. The superintendant is also held responsible for all the cooking eutensels of his mess. in considera tion of the duties imposed by this order on Thompson, Warner, and Collins, they will in future be exempt from guard duty, tho they will still be held on the royster for that duty, and their regular tour-shall be per formed by some one of their rispective messes; they are exempted also from pitching the tents of the mess, collecting firewood, and forks poles &c. for cooking and drying such fresh meat as may be furnished them; those duties are to be also performed by the other members of the mess. M. Lewis Wm. Clark
William Warner will oversee Sergt. Ordway's mess, and John Collins will oversee Sergt. Pryor's mess. These provision supervisors are directly responsible to the commanding officers for the careful use of the provisions they receive. They are to prepare the food for their respective messes in a timely manner and in a way that is both healthy and provides the most nutrition. They can decide how to cook the food based on their judgment. They must also indicate which parts and how much of the mess provisions are to be consumed at each meal (i.e., breakfast, lunch, and dinner). No one may take or consume any part of the mess provisions without the supervisor's knowledge and consent. The supervisor is also responsible for all the cooking utensils of their mess. Because of the duties assigned to Thompson, Warner, and Collins by this order, they will be exempt from guard duty in the future, although they will still be listed for that duty, and their regular shifts will be covered by someone from their respective messes. They are also exempt from setting up the mess tents, collecting firewood, and gathering forks, poles, etc., for cooking and drying any fresh meat provided to them; these tasks will also be handled by other members of the mess. M. Lewis Wm. Clark
[Clark, July 9, 1804]
July the 9th Monday 1804 Sent one man back to the mouth of the River to mark a tree, to let the party on Shore See that the Boat had passed the river, Set out early passed (1) the head of the Island Situated in the middle of the river a Sand bar at the head, (2) passed the mouth of a Creek or Bayou on the S. S. leading from a large Pond of about three miles in length, at 8 oClock it commenced raining, the wind changed from N E. to S. W. (3) at 6 miles passed the mouth of a Small Creek on the L. S. called Monters Creek, the river at this place is wide with a Sand bar in the Middle, passed a place on the L. S. about 2 miles above the Creek, where Several french men camped two years to hunt—(4) passed a Island on the S S. of the river in a bend, opsd. a high Land on the L. S. wind Shifted to the N. W. in the evining, opsd. this Island, and on the L. S. Loup or Wolf River Coms in, this river is about 60 yards Wide, but little water running at the mouth, this river heads with the waters of the Kanzas, and has a perogue navigation Some distance, it abounds with Beaver, Camped opposit the head of the Island on the L. S. Saw a fire on the S. S. Supposedly the four flankers, to be theire, Sent a perogue for them, the Patroon & Bowman of the Perogue French, they returned & informed, that when they approached the fire, it was put out, which caused them to return, this report causd. us to look out Supposeing a pty. of Soux going to war, firierd the bow piec to allarm & put on their guard the men on Shore everey thing in readiness for Defence.
July 9th, Monday, 1804. Sent one man back to the mouth of the river to mark a tree, so the party on shore would see that the boat had passed the river. Set out early, passed (1) the head of the island located in the middle of the river, where there’s a sandbar at the head. (2) Passed the mouth of a creek or bayou on the south side that leads from a large pond about three miles long. At 8 o'clock, it started raining, and the wind changed from northeast to southwest. (3) After six miles, passed the mouth of a small creek on the left side called Monters Creek. The river here is wide, with a sandbar in the middle. Two miles above the creek, passed a place on the left side where several French men camped for two years to hunt. (4) Passed an island on the south side of the river in a bend, opposite a high land on the left side. The wind shifted to the northwest in the evening, opposite this island, and on the left side, Loup or Wolf River comes in. This river is about 60 yards wide, but there’s little water flowing at the mouth. It connects with the Kansas waters and has navigable routes for canoes for some distance; it’s rich in beaver. Camped opposite the head of the island on the left side. Saw a fire on the south side, and suspected the four flankers were there. Sent a canoe for them, the patroon and bowman of the canoe were French; they returned and reported that when they approached the fire, it was put out, which made them come back. This report made us cautious, thinking it might be a party of Sioux going to war. Fired the bow piece to alert and put the men on shore on guard, with everything ready for defense.
[Clark, July 9, 1804]
July 9th Monday 1804 one man Sent back to the river we passed last night to Blase a tree with a view to notify the party on Shore of our passing Set out and passed the head of the (1) Island which was Situated opposit to our Camp last night a Sand bar at the head (2) opsd. this Island a Creek or Bayaue Corns in from a large Pond on the Starboard Side, as our flanking party Saw great numbers of Pike in this Pond, I have laid it down with that name anex'd,v at 8 oClock the wind Shifted from the N, E to S W and it commenced raining. (3) at Six miles passed the mouth of Creek on the L. S. Called Monter's Creek, about two mile above is some Cabins where our Bowman & Several frenchmen Campd. two years (4) passed an Island on the S. S. in a Bend of the river opposit Some Clifts on the L. S. the wind Shifted to the N W opposit this Island and on the L. Side (Loup) or Wolf River Coms in, this river is about 60 yards wide and heads with the waters of the Kansis, and is navagable for Perogues "Some destance up" Camped at a point on the L. S. opposit the head of the Island, our party was incamped on the Opposit Side, their not answering our Signals Caused us to Suspect the persons Camped opposit to us was a war party of Soux, we fired the Bow piece to alarm the party on Shore, ailed prepared to oppose if attacted
July 9th, Monday, 1804: One man was sent back to the river we passed last night to Blase a tree, intending to notify the party on shore of our passage. We set out and passed the head of the (1) island located across from our camp last night. There was a sandbar at the head (2) opposite this island, and a creek or bayou comes in from a large pond on the starboard side. Since our flanking party saw a lot of pike in this pond, I have marked it with that name attached. At 8 o'clock, the wind shifted from northeast to southwest, and it began to rain. (3) After six miles, we passed the mouth of a creek on the left side called Monter's Creek. About two miles above are some cabins where our bowman and several Frenchmen camped two years ago. (4) We passed an island on the starboard side in a bend of the river opposite some cliffs on the left side. The wind shifted to the northwest opposite this island, and on the left side, Loup or Wolf River comes in. This river is about 60 yards wide and originates with the waters of the Kansas, and is navigable for pirogues "some distance up." We camped at a point on the left side opposite the head of the island. Our party was camped on the opposite side, and their failure to respond to our signals made us suspect that the group camped across from us was a war party of Sioux. We fired the bow piece to alert the party on shore and prepared to defend ourselves if attacked.
[Clark, July 10, 1804]
July 10th Tuesday Set out this morning with a view to Land near the fire Seen last night, & recornetre, but Soon discovered that our men were at the fire, they were a Sleep early last evening, and from the Course of the Wind which blew hard, their yells were not heard by party in the perogue, a mistake altogether-. proceeded on, passed Prarie on the upper Side of Woolf River, at 4 miles passed (1) a Small Creek L. S. Called R. Pape this Creek is about 15 yds. Wide-and called after a Spanierd who killed himself at the mouth. (2) Dined on an Island Called de Selamen and delayed 3 hours, and proceeded on, opposit this Isld. on the L. S. is a (3) butifull Bottom Prarie whuch will Contain about 2000 acres of Land covered with wild rye & wild Potatoes, gread numbers of Goslings on the Banks & in the Ponds near the river, Capt Lewis Killed two this evening, we came to & Camped for the night. at a point on the S. S. opposit a yellow Clay Clift.—our men all getting well but much fatigued, the river is on a Stand nether rise nor fall, The bottom on the S. S. is verry extensive & thick. the Hills or high land is near the river on the L. S. and but thinly timbered, back of those hills is open plains.
July 10th, Tuesday We set out this morning hoping to reach the land near the fire we saw last night, but soon realized our men were at the fire, having gone to sleep early the previous evening. Because of the strong wind, their yells didn’t reach the party in the pirogue, which was a complete mistake. We continued on, passing a prairie on the upper side of Woolf River. After 4 miles, we passed a small creek on the left side called R. Pape, which is about 15 yards wide and named after a Spaniard who killed himself at its mouth. We had lunch on an island called de Selamen and rested for 3 hours before moving on. Across from this island on the left side is a beautiful bottom prairie that will hold around 2000 acres of land covered with wild rye and wild potatoes. There were many goslings on the banks and in the ponds near the river; Captain Lewis shot two this evening. We stopped and camped for the night at a point on the south side, opposite a yellow clay cliff. Our men are all recovering but are very fatigued. The river is at a standstill, neither rising nor falling. The bottom land on the south side is very extensive and dense, while the hills or high land near the river on the left side have sparse timber. Behind those hills, there are open plains.
[Clark, July 10, 1804]
July 10th Tuesday 1804 Set out early this morning and Crossd the river with a view to See who the party was that Camped on the other Side, we Soon discovered them to be our men,—proceeded on passed a Prarie on the L. S. at 4 miles passed a Creek L. S Called (1) Pappie after a man who Killed himself at its mouth, this Creek is 15 yds wide—(2) Dined on an Isld. Called de Salamin Delayed 3 hours on this Island to recruit the men opposit on the L. S. is a butifull bottom Plain of about 2000 acres (3) Covered with wild rye & Potatoes, intermix't with the grass, we camped on the S. S. opposit a yellow Clay Clift, Capt. Lewis Killed two young Gees or Goslings this evening—The men of the party getting better, but much fatigued—The river on a Stand—The bottom is verry extensive on the S. S. and thickly intersperced with Vines The High Land approaches near the river on the L. S. and well timbered next to the river, back of those hills the Plains Commence.
July 10th, Tuesday, 1804 We set out early this morning and crossed the river to see who had camped on the other side. We soon realized it was our team. We continued on and passed a prairie on the left side. Four miles in, we crossed a creek on the left side called Pappie, named after a man who committed suicide at its mouth. This creek is 15 yards wide. We had lunch on an island called de Salamin and stayed there for three hours to let the men rest. Across from us on the left side is a beautiful flat plain of about 2000 acres, covered with wild rye and potatoes, mixed in with the grass. We camped on the south side opposite a yellow clay cliff. Captain Lewis killed two young geese or goslings this evening. The men in the party are feeling better, but are still very tired. The river is stable. The bottom land is very extensive on the south side and is densely covered with vines. The high land comes close to the river on the left side and is well-timbered next to the river; behind those hills, the plains begin.
[Clark, July 11, 1804]
July 11th Wednesday, Set out early proceeded on passed a Willow (1) Island in a bend to the S. S. Sent out Dreweyer & Jo. Fields to hunt, Back of this Island a creek corns in on the S. S. called by the Indians Little Tarkio Creek I went on Shore above this Island on the S. S. found the bottom Subject for overflow wet and verry thickly interwoven with grape Vines—proceeded on at about 1/2 a miles from the river about 3 ms. and observed fresh Sign of a horse, I prosueed the track, with an expectation of finding a Camp of Indians on the river, when I got to the river, I saw a horse on the Beech, this horse as appears was left last winter by Some hunting party, probable the Othouez, I joined the Boat on the Sand Island Situated opposit the mouth of the Ne Ma har River, this river Coms in on the L. S. is about 80 yds Wide and navagable for Perogues Some Distance up the praries Commnce above the mouth and Continus on both Sides of this R Drewyer killed 6 Deer to day J. Field one Several hunters Sent out up the Nemahar R
July 11th, Wednesday. We set out early and passed a willow (1) island in a bend to the south side. I sent Dreweyer and Jo Fields to hunt. Behind this island, there’s a creek coming in from the south side, called Little Tarkio Creek by the Indians. I went ashore above this island on the south side and found the ground was prone to flooding, wet, and densely covered with grapevines. We continued on, about half a mile from the river, for approximately three miles and noticed fresh horse tracks. I followed the tracks, hoping to find a camp of Indians by the river. When I reached the river, I saw a horse on the beach. It seemed to have been left last winter by some hunting party, probably the Othouez. I joined the boat at the sand island located opposite the mouth of the Ne Ma har River. This river comes in from the left side; it’s about 80 yards wide and navigable for canoes some distance upstream. The prairies start above the mouth and continue on both sides of the river. Dreweyer killed six deer today, and J. Field got one. Several hunters were sent out up the Nemahar River.
[Clark, July 11, 1804]
July 11th, Wednesday 1804 Set out early passed a Willow Island (1) in a bend on the S. S. back of this Island a Creek Corns in Called by the Indians Tar-ki-o
July 11th, Wednesday 1804 Set out early, passed a Willow Island (1) in a bend on the south side. Behind this island, there’s a creek called Tar-ki-o by the Indians.
I went on Shore above this Creek and walked up parrelel with the river at ab ut half a mile distant, the bottom I found low & Subject to overflow, Still further out, the under groth & vines wer So thick that I could not get thro with ease after walking about three or 4 miles I observed a fresh horse track where he had been feeding I turned my course to the river and prosud the track and found him on a Sand beach This horse Probably had been left by Some party of Otteaus hunters who wintered or hunted in this quarter last fall or Wintr. I joined the party on a large Sand Island imediately opposit the mouth of Ne Ma haw River, at which place they had Camped, this Island is Sand about half of it Covered with Small Willows of two different Kinds, one Narrow & the other a Broad Leaf. Several hunters Sent out to day on both Sides of the river, Seven Deer Killed to day. Drewyer Killd Six of them, made Some Luner observations this evening.
I went ashore above this creek and walked parallel to the river about half a mile away. The ground I found was low and prone to flooding. Further out, the undergrowth and vines were so thick that I had a hard time getting through. After walking about three or four miles, I noticed a fresh horse track where it had been feeding. I changed my direction to follow the track to the river and found the horse on a sandy beach. This horse was probably left by some group of Otter hunters who wintered or hunted in this area last fall or winter. I joined the party on a large sandy island directly across from the mouth of the Ne Mahaw River, where they had set up camp. This island is sandy, with about half of it covered in small willows of two different kinds: one narrow and the other broad-leaved. Several hunters went out today on both sides of the river, and seven deer were killed today. Drewyer killed six of them and made some lunar observations this evening.
[Clark, July 12, 1804]
July 12th Thursday Som hunters out on the S. S. those on the L. S. did not return last night, our object in delaying here is to tak Some Observations and rest the men who are much fatigued made Sundery observations, after an early Brackfast I took five men and went up the River Ne Ma har about three miles, to an open leavel part of an emence prarie, at the Mouth of a Small Creek on the Lower Side, I went on Shore, & passed thro the plain passed Several noles to the top of a high artificial Noal from the top of this noal I had an emence, extensive & pleaseing prospect, of the Countrey around, I could See the meandering of the Little River for at least 10 miles winding thro a meadow of 15 or 20000 acres of high bottom land covered with Grass about 41/2 feet high, the high lands which rose irregularly, & were toped with Mounds or antent Graves which is to me a Strong evidence of this Countrey haveing been thickly Settled-.This River is about 80 yards wide with a gentle Current and heads up near the Parnee Village on River Blue a branch of Kansas, a little timbered land near the mouth for 1 mile above, only a fiew Trees, and thickets of Plumbs Cheres &c are Seen on its banks the Creeks & little reveens makeing into the river have also Some timber—I got grapes on the banks nearly ripe, observed great quantities, of Grapes, plums Crab apls and a wild Cherry, Growing like a Comn. Wild Cherry only larger & grows on a Small bush, on the side of a clift Sand Stone 1/2 me. up & on Lower Side I marked my name & day of the month near an Indian Mark or Image of animals & a boat Tried Willard for Sleeping on his post, our hunters killed some Deer, Saw Elk & Buffalow.
July 12th, Thursday. Some hunters went out on the S. S., while those on the L. S. didn't come back last night. We're staying here to take some observations and let the men rest, as they are really tired. After an early breakfast, I took five men and went up the Ne Ma har River about three miles to an open, level area of a huge prairie at the mouth of a small creek on the lower side. I went ashore and crossed the plain, passing several knolls to the top of a high mound. From the top of this mound, I had an immense, extensive, and pleasing view of the surrounding countryside. I could see the Little River winding its way for at least 10 miles through a meadow of 15,000 to 20,000 acres of high bottom land covered with grass about 4.5 feet tall. The highlands rose irregularly and were topped with mounds or ancient graves, which strongly suggested that this area used to be densely populated. This river is about 80 yards wide with a gentle current and flows near the Parnee Village on River Blue, a branch of the Kansas River. Near the mouth, there's about a mile of partially wooded land with just a few trees and thickets of plums, cherries, etc., seen along its banks. The creeks and small ravines that flow into the river also have some timber. I found nearly ripe grapes on the banks and noticed lots of grapes, plums, crab apples, and a wild cherry that grows like a common wild cherry but is larger and grows on a small bush on the side of a sandstone cliff, half a mile up and on the lower side. I marked my name and the date near an Indian mark or image of animals and a boat. I also scolded Willard for sleeping on his post. Our hunters killed some deer and saw elk and buffalo.
[Clark, July 12, 1804]
July 12th, Thursday 1804 Concluded to Delay here to day with a view of takeing equal altitudes & makeing observations as well as refreshing our men who are much fatigued—after an early Brackfast I with five men in a Perogue assended the River Ne-Ma-haw about 2 miles to the mouth of a Small Creek on the Lower Side, here I got out of the Perogue, after going to Several Small Mounds in a leavel plain, I assended a hill on the Lower Side, on this hill Several Artificial Mounds were raised, from the top of the highest of those Mounds I had an extensive view of the Serounding Plains, which afforded one of the most pleasing prospects I ever beheld, under me a Butifull River of Clear water of about 80 yards wide Meandering thro a leavel and extensive Meadow, as far as I could See, the prospect Much enlivened by the fine Trees & Srubs which is bordering the bank of the river, and the Creeks & runs falling into it,-. The bottom land is covered with Grass of about 41/2 feet high, and appears as leavel as a Smoth Surfice, the 2 bottom is also covered with Grass and rich weeds & flours, interspersed with Copses of the Osage Plumb. on the riseing lands, Small groves of trees are Seen, with a numbers of Grapes and a Wild Cherry resembling the Common Wild Cherry, only larger and grows on a Small bush on the tops of those hills in every derection. I observed artifical mounds (or as I may more justly term Graves) which to me is a Strong indication of this Country being once Thickly Settled. (The Indians of the Missouris Still Keep up the Custom of Burrying their dead on high ground) after a ramble of about two miles about I returned to the perogue and decended down the River, gathd. Som grapes nearly ripe, on a Sandstone Bluff about 1/4 of a mile from its mouth on the Lower Side I observed Some Indian marks, went to the rock which jutted over the water and marked my name & the day of the month & year—This river heads near one of the Villages of the Pania on the River Blue, a branch of the Kansas River.—above this river about half a mile the Prarie Comes to the Missouri after my return to Camp on the Island Completed Som observations, Tred tried a man for sleeping on his Post & inspected the arms amunition &c. of the party found all complete, Took Some Luner Obsevations. three Deer killed to day. Latd. 39° 55' 56" N.
July 12th, Thursday 1804 I decided to stay here today to take equal altitudes and make observations, as well as to give our men a chance to rest since they’re pretty worn out. After an early breakfast, I took five men in a canoe and went up the Ne-Ma-haw River about 2 miles to where a small creek meets it on the lower side. Here, I got out of the canoe and visited several small mounds in a flat area. I climbed a hill on the lower side where several artificial mounds were built. From the top of the highest mound, I had a wide view of the surrounding plains, which offered one of the most beautiful sights I’ve ever seen. Below me was a stunning river of clear water about 80 yards wide, winding through a flat and expansive meadow as far as I could see. The view was enhanced by the lovely trees and shrubs lining the riverbank and the creeks flowing into it. The bottom land was covered in grass about 4.5 feet high, appearing as flat as a smooth surface. The second bottom had more grass, rich weeds, and flowers, along with clusters of Osage plums. On the rising land, I could see small groves of trees, with many grapes and wild cherries that resemble common wild cherries but are larger and grow on small bushes on the tops of the hills in all directions. I noticed artificial mounds (or, as I could more accurately call them, graves), which strongly suggest that this area was once densely populated. (The Indians of the Missouris still practice burying their dead on elevated ground.) After wandering around for about two miles, I returned to the canoe and headed back down the river, gathering some nearly ripe grapes on a sandstone bluff about a quarter mile from the mouth on the lower side. I saw some Indian marks and went to a rock that jutted over the water, where I carved my name along with the date. This river starts near one of the villages of the Pania on the Blue River, a branch of the Kansas River. Above this river, about half a mile away, the prairie meets the Missouri. After I returned to camp on the island, I finished some observations, tried a man for sleeping on his post, and inspected the party's arms and ammunition, finding everything in order. I took some lunar observations, and three deer were killed today. Latitude: 39° 55' 56" N.
[Lewis and Clark, July 12, 1804]
Camp New Island July 12th 1804. A Court matial consisting of the two commanding officers will convene this day at 1 OCk. P.M. for the trial of such prisoners as may be brought before them; one of the court will act as judge Advocate. M. Lewis Wm. Clark
Camp New Island July 12th 1804. A court-martial made up of the two commanding officers will meet today at 1:00 PM to try any prisoners that may be presented to them; one member of the court will serve as the judge advocate. M. Lewis Wm. Clark
The Commanding officers. Capt. M. Lewis & W. Clark constituted themselves a Court martial for the trial of Such prisoners as are Guilty of Capatol Crimes, and under the rules and articles of War punishable by Death,
The commanding officers, Capt. M. Lewis and W. Clark, established a court-martial to try any prisoners guilty of capital crimes, which are punishable by death under the rules and articles of war.
Alexander Willard was brought foward Charged with "Lying down and Sleeping on his post whilst a Sentinal, on the night of the 11th. Instant" (by John Ordway Sergeant of the Guard)
Alexander Willard was brought forward charged with "lying down and sleeping on his post while a sentinel, on the night of the 11th instant" (by John Ordway, Sergeant of the Guard)
To this Charge the prisoner pleads. Guilty of Lying Down, and not Guilty, of Going to Sleep. The Court after Duly Considering the evidence aduced, are of oppinion that the Prisoner Alexdn. Willard is guilty of every part of the Charge exhibited against him. it being a breach of the rules and articles of War (as well as tending to the probable distruction of the party) do Sentence him to receive One hundred lashes on his bear back, at four different times in equal propation.—and order that the punishment Commence this evening at Sunset, and Continue to be inflicted, (by the Guard) every evening untill Completed Wm Clark M. Lewis
To this charge, the prisoner pleads. Guilty of lying down, and not guilty of going to sleep. The court, after duly considering the evidence presented, believes that the prisoner, Alexander Willard, is guilty of every part of the charge against him. This constitutes a breach of the rules and articles of war (as well as likely leading to the probable destruction of the party). Therefore, we sentence him to receive one hundred lashes on his bare back, administered at four different times in equal portions. We order that the punishment begins this evening at sunset and continues every evening until completed. Wm Clark M. Lewis
[Clark, July 13, 1804]
My notes of the 13th of July by a Most unfortunate accident blew over Board in a Storm in the morning of the 14th obliges me to refur to the Journals of Serjeants, and my own recollection the accurrences Courses Distance &c. of that day—last night a violent Storm from the N. N, E.- (1) passed Tar-ki-o River, at 2 miles a chant. running into this river 3 ms. abov forms St Josephs Isld. Passed an elegt Prarie in the 1st bend to the left. Containg a grass resmlg Timothy, with Seed like flax, (2) passed a Island in a bend to the S. S. at 12 ms. I walked on Shore S. S. lands, low & overflows, Killed two Goslings nearly Grown, Sailed under a Wind from the South all day, Camped on a Sand Island on the L. Pt. opposit a high & extensiv Prarie, on the S. S. the Hills about 4 or 5 me. off, this Plain appears extensive, great appearance of a Storm from the North W. this evening verry agreeable the wind Still from the South-
My notes from July 13th were unfortunately blown away in a storm on the morning of the 14th, which forces me to refer to the journals of the sergeants and my own memory for the events, routes, distances, etc. of that day. Last night, a violent storm came from the north-northeast, passing the Tar-ki-o River, which is 2 miles wide, running into this river 3 miles above St. Joseph’s Island. I passed a beautiful prairie in the first bend to the left, containing grass that resembles timothy, with seeds that look like flax. I passed an island in a bend to the south-southeast at 12 miles. I walked on shore south-southeast, where the lands were low and flooded, and I killed two almost-grown goslings. We sailed all day with the wind coming from the south and camped on a sand island on the left point across from a high and extensive prairie. The hills are about 4 or 5 miles off. This plain appears vast, and there are signs of a storm coming from the northwest this evening, but the weather is still pleasant with the wind continually from the south.
from the Osagies Nation with twenty odd of the Natives or chiefs of the Nation with him sailed dowen the Mississippi bound to St Louis & 3 guns fired showers of rain Showers of Rain all that night
from the Osagies Nation with about twenty of the Natives or chiefs of the Nation with him sailed down the Mississippi bound for St Louis, and 3 guns fired, rain pouring all night long.
[Clark, July 13, 1804]
July 13th Friday 1804 Set out at Sun rise, and prosd. on under a gentle Breeze, at two miles passed the mouth of a Small river on the S. S. Called by the Indians Tarki-o, a Channel running out of the river three miles above (which is now filled up with Sand) runs into this Creek & and formed a Island Called St.
July 13th, Friday, 1804 Set out at sunrise and continued on with a gentle breeze. After two miles, we passed the mouth of a small river on the south side, which the Indians call Tarki-o. A channel that used to flow out of the river three miles upstream (now filled with sand) runs into this creek, forming an island called St.
Josephs Several Sand bars parralel to each other above—In the first bend to the left is Situated a Butifull & extensive plain, Cover'd with Grass resembling Timothy except the Seed which resembles Flax Seed, this plain also abounds in Grapes of defferent Kinds Some nearly ripe. I Killed two Goslings nearly Grown, Several others Killed and cought on Shore, also one old Goose, with pin fethers, She Could not fly—at about 12 miles passd. a Island Situated in a bend on the S. S. above this Island is a large Sand bar Covered with willows. The wind from the South, Camped on a large Sand Bar makeing out from the L. P. opposit a high hanson Prarie, the hills about 4 or 5 miles on S. S. this plain appeard extensive, the Clouds appear to geather to the N. W. a most agreeable Breeze from the South (I walked on Shore on the S. S. the lands are low Subject to overflow)
Joseph's several sandbars run parallel to each other above. In the first bend to the left, there’s a beautiful and wide plain covered with grass that looks like Timothy except for the seeds, which resemble flax seeds. This plain is also full of different kinds of grapes, some nearly ripe. I killed two almost grown goslings, along with several others I caught on shore, as well as one old goose that couldn’t fly because of pin feathers. After about 12 miles, we passed an island located in a bend on the south side. Above this island, there’s a large sandbar covered with willows. The wind is coming from the south. We camped on a large sandbar extending out from the left bank opposite a high Hansen Prairie, with hills about 4 or 5 miles away on the south side. This plain looks extensive. The clouds seem to gather to the northwest, and there’s a pleasant breeze from the south. I walked onshore on the south side; the land is low and prone to flooding.
Last night at about 10 oClock a violent Storm of wind from the N. N. E. which lasted with Great violence for about one hour, at which time a Shower of rain Succeeded.
Last night around 10 o’clock, there was a violent storm with strong winds coming from the North-Northeast. It lasted with great intensity for about an hour, followed by a downpour of rain.
The men on Shore did not join us this after noon—The river nearly on a Stand—the high lands on the S. S. has only been Seen at a Distance above the Nordaway River, those on the S. L. aproaching the river at every bend, on the Side next to the river well timbered, the opsd. Side open & the Commencmt. of Plains.
The men on shore didn’t join us this afternoon—the river is almost at a standstill—the high ground on the south side has only been visible from a distance above the Nordaway River, while those on the south bank are getting closer to the river at every bend. The side closest to the river is well-forested, while the opposite side is open and begins the plains.
[Clark, July 14, 1804]
July the 14th Satturday Some hard Shours of rain accompaned with Some wind detained us untill about 7 oClock, we then Set out and proceeded on about a mile and th atmispeir became Suddenly darkened by a blak & dismal looking Cloud, we wer in a Situation, near the upper point of a Sd. Isd. & the opsd Shore falling in in this Situation a Violent Storm of Wint from the N, E (passing over an Open plain, Struck the boat nearly Starboard, quatering, & blowing down the Current) the exerssions of all our Men who were out in an instant, aded to a Strong Cable and Anchor was Scrcely Sufficent to Keep the boat from being thrown up on the Sand Island, and dashed to peices the Waves dasthed over on the Side next to the wind the lockers which was covered with Tarpoling prevented them coming into the boat untill the Boat was Creaned on the Side from the Wind in this Situation we continued about 40 minits, the two perogues about a quater of a mile above, one of them in a Similer Situation with the Boat, the other under the charge of George Gibson in a much better position, with her Ster faceing the wind, this Storm Suddenly Seased, & 1 minit the river was as Smoth as glass, the wind Shifted to the S. E and we Set Sail, and proceeded on passed (1) a Small Island on the S. S. and Dined—R. Fields who has charge of the horses &c. on Shore did not join us last night-. passed a old fort where Mr. Bennet of St Louis winttered 2 years & traded with the Otteaus & Parties on the S. S. 1 me. abov the little Island, I went out on the L. S. and observed two Elk on a land in the river, in attempting to get near those elk obseved one near us I Shot one. continued on Shore & thro the bottom which was extensive, Some Small Praries, and a peponce of high rich & well timbered bottom, in the Glades I saw wild Timothy, Lams quarter Cuckle burs & rich weed, on the edges Plumbs of different kinds Grapes, and Goose berries, Camped on the L. S. Ruben Fields and Gulrich joined the Party two men unwell, one a Felin on his finger, river fall
July 14th, Saturday. After enduring some heavy rain accompanied by wind, we were delayed until around 7 o’clock. We then set out and traveled about a mile when suddenly a dark and ominous cloud appeared. We found ourselves near the upper point of a side island, and the opposing shore was moving closer. In this situation, a violent storm from the northeast hit the boat almost directly on the starboard side, pushing us downriver. The frantic efforts of all our men were barely enough to keep the boat from being thrown onto the sand island, where it would be dashed to pieces. Waves crashed over the side facing the wind, but the tarpaulin-covered lockers prevented them from flooding the boat until we were leaning over from the wind. We endured this situation for about 40 minutes; the two pirogues were about a quarter of a mile upstream—one in a similar situation as ours and the other under the command of George Gibson, positioned much better with its stern facing the wind. The storm suddenly ceased, and within a minute, the river was as smooth as glass. The wind shifted to the southeast, so we set sail and passed a small island on the south side and had lunch. R. Fields, who was in charge of the horses on shore, didn’t join us last night. We passed an old fort where Mr. Bennet of St. Louis spent two winters trading with the Otteau and other parties on the south side, one mile above the little island. I went out on the left side and saw two elk on an island in the river. When trying to get closer, I noticed one near us and shot it. We continued along the shore through an extensive bottom area, which included some small prairies and patches of high, rich, well-timbered bottom land. In the glades, I saw wild timothy, lamb's quarter, cocklebur, and rich weeds. On the edges, there were plums of different kinds, grapes, and gooseberries. We camped on the left side, and Ruben Fields and Gulrich joined the group, but two men were unwell, one having an infection on his finger. The river fell.
[Clark, July 14, 1804]
July 14th, Satturday 1804 Some hard Showers of rain this morning prevented our Setting out untill 7 oClock, at half past Seven, the atmispr. became Sudenly darkened by a black and dismal looking Cloud, at the time we were in a Situation (not to be bettered) near the upper point of the Sand Island, on which we lay, and the opposit Shore, the bank was falling in and lined with Snags as far as we could See down,-. in this Situation The Storm which passd over an open Plain from the N. E. Struck the our boat on the Starbd. quarter, and would have thrown her up on the Sand Island dashed to peces in an Instant, had not the party leeped out on the Leward Side and kept her off with the assistance of the ancker & Cable, untill the Storm was over, the waves Dashed over her windward Side and She must have filled with water if the Lockers which is covered with Tarpoling & Threw of the water & prevented any quantity Getting into Bilge of the Boat
July 14th, Saturday 1804 Some heavy rain this morning delayed our departure until 7 o'clock. At half past seven, the atmosphere suddenly became darkened by a black, gloomy cloud. We were in a situation that couldn't have been worse, near the upper point of the Sand Island where we were camped, and the opposite shore had collapsing banks lined with snags as far as we could see downstream. At that moment, a storm coming from the northeast struck our boat on the starboard quarter. It would have thrown us onto the Sand Island, wrecking us instantly, if the crew hadn't jumped out on the leeward side and managed to keep her off with the anchor and cable until the storm passed. The waves crashed over the windward side, and she would have filled with water if it weren't for the lockers covered with tarpaulin, which drained the water and prevented a significant amount from getting into the boat's bilge.
In this Situation we continued about 40 Minits. when the Storm Sudenly Seased and the river become Instancetaniously as Smoth as Glass.
In this situation, we continued for about 40 minutes when the storm suddenly stopped and the river became instantly as smooth as glass.
The two perogus dureing this Storm was in a Similar Situation with the boat about half a mile above—The wind Shifted to the S. E & We Saled up passed a Small (1) Isld. Situated on the S. S. and Dined & Continud two hours, men examine their arms—about a Mile above this Island, passed a Small Tradeing fort on the S. S. where, Mr. Bennet of St. Louis Traded with the Otteaus & Panies two years. I went on Shore to Shoot Some Elk on a Sand bar to the L. S. I fired at one but did not get him, went out into a large extensive bottom the greater part of which overflows, the part that dose not overflow, is rich and well timbered, Some Small open Praries near the hills, the Boat passed the lower part of a large Island Situated on the S. S. above the Lower point of this Island on the S. S. a (2) large Creek corns into the river Called by the Maha's Indians Neesh-nah-ba-to-na 50 yds this is a considerable Creek nearly as large as the Mine River, and runs parrelel with the Missouri, the Greater part of its Course. In those Small Praries or glades I saw wild Timothey, lambs-quarter, Cuckle burs; & rich weed. on the edges Grows Sumr. Grapes, Plum's, & Gooseberries. I Joined the boat which had Came to and Camped in a bend opposd. the large Island before mentioned on the L. S. Several men unwell with Boils, Felns, &c. The river falls a little.
The two boats during this storm were in a similar situation to the one about half a mile upstream. The wind shifted to the southeast, and we sailed past a small island located on the south shore. We stopped for lunch and continued for two hours while the men checked their weapons. About a mile above this island, we passed a small trading fort on the south shore where Mr. Bennet from St. Louis traded with the Otta and Pani tribes for two years. I went ashore to hunt some elk on a sandbar on the left shore. I shot at one but missed it, then ventured into a large, extensive lowland, most of which was flooded. The parts that weren't flooded were rich and well-timbered, with some small open prairies near the hills. The boat passed the lower part of a large island on the south shore. Above the lower point of this island, a large creek enters the river, called Neesh-nah-ba-to-na by the Maha Indians. This creek, which is about 50 yards wide, is quite significant, almost as large as the Mine River, and runs parallel to the Missouri for the majority of its course. In those small prairies or glades, I spotted wild timothy grass, lambsquarters, cocklebur, and rich weeds. Along the edges, there were summer grapes, plums, and gooseberries. I rejoined the boat, which had anchored, and we camped in a bend opposite the large island I mentioned earlier on the left shore. Several men were feeling unwell with boils, felons, etc. The river level dropped slightly.
[Clark, July 15, 1804]
July 15th Sunday 1804. a heavy fog this morning which Detained us untill 7 oClock, put Drewyer Sgt. Floyd on Shore, at 9 I took two Men and went on Shore, with a view to Kill Some elk, passed thro open plains, and barroney lands Crossed three butifull Small Streams of water, Saw great quantity of Cherres Plums, Grapes & Berries of Difft. Kinds, the lands Generally of a good quallity, on the Streams the wood escapes the fire, at about 7 miles I Struck the river at the mouth Ne ma har Creek about 40 yds wide, near this Creek on a high part of the Prarie I had a extensive View of the river & Countrey on both Sides. on S. a contnuation of the plain as far as I could See, on the N. a bottom Prarie of about 5 ms. wide & 18 or 20 long, hills back of this Plain. I Swam across the Creek and waited for the Boat about three miles above, we camped opsd. an Island.
July 15th, Sunday, 1804. There was a heavy fog this morning that held us up until 7 o'clock. I sent Drewyer and Sgt. Floyd ashore. At 9, I took two men and went on shore to hunt some elk. We passed through open plains and barren land, crossed three beautiful small streams of water, and saw a lot of cherries, plums, grapes, and various kinds of berries. The land was generally of good quality, and the trees along the streams were untouched by fire. After about 7 miles, I reached the river at the mouth of Ne ma har Creek, which is about 40 yards wide. Near this creek, on a high part of the prairie, I had a great view of the river and the countryside on both sides. To the south, the plain continued as far as I could see, and to the north was a bottom prairie about 5 miles wide and 18 or 20 miles long, with hills behind this plain. I swam across the creek and waited for the boat about three miles upstream, and we camped opposite an island.
[Clark, July 15, 1804]
July 15th, Sunday a heavy Fog this morning prevented our Setting out before 7 oClock, at nine I took two men and walked on the L. S. I crossed three butifull Streems of runnig water heading in the Praries on those Streem the lands verry fine covered with pea Vine & rich weed the high Praries are also good land Covered with Grass entirely void of timber except what grows on the water, I proceeded on thro those praries Several miles to the mouth of a large Creek on the L. S. called (2) Ne ma har this is a Small river, about 100 yds. above the mouth it is 40 yards wide, at the mouth (as all other Creeks & rivers falling into the Missourie are) much narrower than a little distance up. after continueing at the mouth of this Creek about an hour, I Swam across and proceeded on about 3 miles and halted to wate for the boat, which was Some distance below—In all this days march thro woods & Praries, I only Saw three Deer & 3 fawns—I had at one part of the Prarie a verry extensive view of all the Countrey around up and down the river a Considerable distance, on the Larbd. Sd. one Continul Plain, on the S. S. Some timber on the bank of the river, for a Short distance back of this timber is a bottom Plain of four or five miles back to the hills and under the hills between them & the river this plain appeared to extend 20 or 30 miles, those Hills have but little timber, and the Plain appears to Continu back of them—I Saw Great quantities of Grapes, Plums, or 2 Kinds wild Cherries of 2 Kinds, Hazelnuts, and Goosberries.
July 15th, Sunday, a heavy fog this morning kept us from leaving until after 7 o'clock. By 9, I took two men and walked along the left side. I crossed three beautiful streams of running water originating in the prairies. The land around those streams is very fine, covered with pea vines and rich weeds. The high prairies are also great land, completely covered with grass and almost devoid of timber, except for what grows near the water. I continued through those prairies for several miles to the mouth of a large creek on the left side called Ne ma har. This is a small river; about 100 yards above its mouth, it is 40 yards wide, but at the mouth—like all other creeks and rivers flowing into the Missouri—it is much narrower a little upstream. After staying at the mouth of this creek for about an hour, I swam across and continued on for about 3 miles, stopping to wait for the boat, which was some distance downstream. Throughout today’s trek through woods and prairies, I only saw three deer and three fawns. At one point on the prairie, I had a very extensive view of the countryside around, both upstream and downstream for quite a distance. On the left side, there was a continuous plain, and on the right side, some timber along the riverbank. A short distance behind this timber is a bottom plain extending four or five miles back to the hills, and under those hills, the plain appeared to stretch for 20 or 30 miles. These hills have very little timber, and the plain seems to continue behind them. I saw large quantities of grapes, plums, two kinds of wild cherries, hazelnuts, and gooseberries.
we Camped in a point of woods on the Larboard S. opsd. a large Island.
[Lewis, July 15, 1804]
Sunday July 15th This evening I discovered that my Chronometer had stoped, nor can I assign any cause for this accedent; she had been wound up the preceding noon as usual. This is the third instance in which this instrument has stopt in a similar manner since she nas been in my possession, tho the first only since our departure from the River Dubois. in the two preceding cases when she was again set in motion, and her rate of going determined by a series of equal altitudes of the sun taken for that purpose, it was found to be the same precisely as that mentioned in the preliminary remarks to these observations, or 15 s & 5 tenths too slow in 24 h-as her rate of going after stoping, and begin again set in motion has in two instances proved to be the same, I have concluded, that whatever this impediment may procede from, it is not caused by any material injury which her works have sustained, and that when she is in motion, her error on mean time above stated, may be depended on as accurate. In consequence of the chronometer's having thus accedentally stoped, I determined to come too at the first convenient place and make such observations as were necessary to ascertain her error, establish the Latitude & Longitude, and determine the variation of the nedle, in order to fix a second point of departure.
Sunday, July 15th This evening I found that my chronometer had stopped, and I can't figure out why this happened; I had wound it up the day before as usual. This is the third time this instrument has stopped in a similar way since I’ve owned it, although the first time occurred only after we left the River Dubois. In the two previous instances, when I set it in motion again and determined its rate by taking a series of equal altitudes of the sun, it was found to be exactly the same as what I mentioned in the preliminary remarks to these observations: 15 seconds and 5 tenths too slow in 24 hours. Since the rate of going after stopping and starting again has proven to be the same in two instances, I’ve concluded that whatever this issue comes from, it isn’t due to any material damage to the works, and that when it’s running, its error on mean time mentioned above can be relied upon as accurate. Because the chronometer stopped like this, I decided to stop at the first convenient place and take the necessary observations to determine its error, establish the latitude and longitude, and find the variation of the needle, to set a second point of departure.
[Clark, July 16, 1804]
July 16 1804 Monday Set out verry early and proceeded on the Side of a Prarie passd the head of the Island opsd. which we Camped last night, (1) passed a Small willow Island off the L. point, hills make near the river (2) passed a large Island nearest the L. S. below the pt. a Small willow Isd. also one on the Side. this large Island is called fair Sun the wind favourable from the South. Boat run on a Sawyer, (4) pass a place on the L. S. where the hill abt. 20 acres has Sliped into the river lately just above passed under a clift of Sand Stone L. S. a number of Burds Nests in the holes & crevises of this rock which Continus 2 miles, (5) passed a willow Island in a Deep bend to the S. S. river 2 mile wide at this place, note Deed Snags across, passed the Lower point of a Island called Isle Chauvin Situated on the L. Point opposit an extensive Prarie on the S. S., This prarie I call Ball pated Prarie from the range ball hills, at from 3 to 6 miles from the river as far as my Sight will extend, we camped in a point of woods opsd. the Isd. on S. S. in a bend.
July 16, 1804, Monday We set out very early and traveled along the edge of a prairie, passing the head of the island where we camped last night. We passed a small willow island off the left point, with hills close to the river. Next, we passed a large island near the left side below the point, along with a small willow island on the side. This large island is called Fair Sun, and the wind was favorable from the south. The boat ran onto a sawyer. We passed a spot on the left side where about 20 acres of hillside has recently slipped into the river, just above a sandy cliff on the left side, where there were several bird nests in the holes and crevices of the rock, which extends for 2 miles. We passed a willow island in a deep bend where the river is 2 miles wide at this point, noting dangerous snags across it. We passed the lower point of an island called Isle Chauvin, located on the left point opposite a vast prairie on the south side. I named this prairie Ball Pated Prairie because of the range of ball hills from 3 to 6 miles from the river, as far as I can see. We camped in a wooded point opposite the island on the south side in a bend.
[Clark, July 16, 1804]
July 16th Monday 1804 Set out this morning verry early and proceeded on under a gentle breeze from the S passed the upper point of the Island an extensive Prarie on the L. S. passed a large (1) Island Called Fair Sun Isd. a Small willow Isld. at the lower point on the L. S. the boat passd on the L. S. of those Islands Several Small Sand Islands in the Channel, the Boat run on the point of a Snag, (2) passed a place above the Island L. S. where about 20 acres of the hill has latterly Sliped into the river above a clift of Sand Stone for about two miles, the resort of burds of Different Kinds to reare their young. (5) Passed a willow Island in a Deep Bend to the S. S. opposit the river is about two miles wide, and not verry Deep as the Snag may be Seen across, Scattering, passed the Lower point of an Island called by French Chauvin's Situated off the L. Point opposit an extensive Prarie on the S. S. This Prarie I call Ball gated Prarie, from a range of Ball Hills parrelel to the river & at from 3 to 6 miles distant from it, and extends as far up & Down as I Can See, we Camped in a point of woods on the L. S. above the Lower point of the Island. river falling.
July 16th, Monday, 1804 Set out this morning very early and continued on under a gentle breeze from the south. We passed the upper point of the island, an extensive prairie on the left side. We passed a large island called Fair Sun Island and a small willow island at the lower point on the left side. The boat went past the left side of those islands. There were several small sand islands in the channel. The boat ran onto the tip of a snag. We passed a spot above the island on the left side where about 20 acres of the hill have recently slipped into the river, above a cliff of sandstone for about two miles, a place where different kinds of birds come to raise their young. We passed a willow island in a deep bend to the south side; the river is about two miles wide there and not very deep, as the snag can be seen across, scattered. We passed the lower point of an island called by the French Chauvin's, situated off the left point opposite an extensive prairie on the south side. I call this prairie Ball Gated Prairie because of a range of Ball Hills parallel to the river, located 3 to 6 miles away and extending as far as I can see. We camped in a point of woods on the left side above the lower point of the island. The river is falling.
[Lewis, July 16, 1804]
Monday 16th we set out at an early hour; the morning was cloudy; could find no convenient situation for observation; proceeded untill a little before noon when we came too On the Lard. Shore opposite to the center of good Island where I observed the meridian altitude of O's L. L. with Octant by the back observation, wich gave me the Latitude—40° 20' 12" N.
Monday the 16th, we set out early in the morning; it was cloudy. We couldn’t find a good spot for observation; we continued until just before noon when we stopped on the left shore opposite the center of Good Island. There, I measured the meridian altitude of O's L. L. using the Octant with the back observation, which gave me the latitude of 40° 20' 12" N.
I now set the Chronometer as near noon as this observation would enable me, and proceeded untill evening, when we came too on the Stard. shore opposite the lower point of the Island of the Bald prarie where we encamped.
I now set the chronometer as close to noon as this observation allowed me and continued until evening, when we anchored on the starboard shore opposite the lower point of Bald Prairie Island, where we set up camp.
[Clark, July 17, 1804]
July 17th Tuesday, we concluded to lay by today to fix the Longitude, and get the Cronometer right, (She run down Day before yesterday), Several men out hunting to day Capt. Lewis rode out to Neesh-nahba-to na Creek which passes thro. the Prarie (on which there is Some few trees) within ____ Mile of the Missoureis, wind from the S E. Several of the party have tumers of different Kinds Some of which is verry troublesom and dificuilty to cure. I took a meridian altitude (43° 27') which made the Lattitude of this place 40° 27' 6" 4/10 North.—(The Ball Hills bear N 25° W for 30 mes. The bend on L. S. passing the Isd. on the right Side is N. 28° W. 4 ms.) Took equal altitudes Tried a part of the comn pt. of the Current in 40 Seconds the water run 50 fathem 30" & 20" in places
July 17th, Tuesday, we decided to take a break today to determine the Longitude and get the Chronometer adjusted (it ran down the day before yesterday). Several guys went out hunting today. Captain Lewis rode out to Neesh-nahba-to na Creek, which flows through the Prairie (where there are a few trees) within ____ mile of the Missouris, with the wind coming from the Southeast. Some members of the party have various ailments, some of which are quite troublesome and difficult to treat. I took a meridian altitude (43° 27'), which made the Latitude of this location 40° 27' 6" 4/10 North. (The Ball Hills are located N 25° W for 30 miles. The bend on the Left Side, passing the Island on the right side, is N 28° W, 4 miles.) Took equal altitudes and tested a portion of the current over 40 seconds; the water moved 50 fathoms, 30" and 20" in places.
Cap Lewers returned, Saw Some hand Som Countrey, the Creek near the high land is rapid and nearly as muddy as the river, & rising Gutrich caught two verry fat Cat fish G Drewyer Killed 3 Deer, & R Fields one, a puff of wind brought Swarms of Misquitors, which disapeared in two hours, blown off by a Continuation of the Same brees.
Cap Lewers came back, saw some people from the country, the creek near the high ground is fast and almost as muddy as the river, and Gutrich caught two really fat catfish. Drewry killed three deer, and R. Fields got one. A gust of wind brought in swarms of mosquitoes, which disappeared in two hours, blown away by a steady breeze.
[Clark, July 17, 1804]
Bald Pated Prarie July 17th, Tuesday 1804 We Concluded lay by at this place to day to fix the Lattitude & Longitude of this place to Correct the cromometer run down Sunday) Several men out by day light hunting Capt. Lewis Concid. to ride out to Neesh-nah-ba-to-na Creek which passes under the ball hills near this place and at one place a little above this Camp is within 300 yards of the Missouris on this Creek grows Some few trees of oake walnut & mulberry. I took Meridian altitude of sun L. L. (43° 27') which made the Lattitude 40° 27' 5" 4/10 North—wind from the South E. Several of the party much aflicted with turners of different Kinds, Som of which is verry troublesom and dificuelt to cure. Capt. Louis returned in the evening. he Saw Som hand Some Countrey & Says that the aforesaid Creek is rapid muddey and running—This Creek which is at 10 or 12 from its mouth, within 300 yds of the river is at least 16 foot Lower than the river—The high Lands from our Camp in this Bald Pated Prarie bears N 25° W. up the R.
Bald Pated Prairie July 17th, Tuesday 1804 We decided to stay here today to determine the latitude and longitude of this location to correct the chronometer that ran down on Sunday. Several men went out at dawn to hunt. Capt. Lewis chose to ride out to Neesh-nah-ba-to-na Creek, which runs beneath the hills near here. At one spot just above this camp, it's only about 300 yards from the Missouri River. A few trees of oak, walnut, and mulberry grow along this creek. I recorded the meridian altitude of the sun at L. L. (43° 27'), which gave a latitude of 40° 27' 5" 4/10 North. The wind is coming from the southeast. Several members of the party are suffering from various ailments, some of which are quite troublesome and difficult to treat. Capt. Lewis returned in the evening. He saw some nice terrain and mentioned that the creek is fast, muddy, and flowing. This creek, which is about 10 or 12 miles from its mouth and 300 yards from the river, is at least 16 feet lower than the river. The higher land from our camp in this Bald Pated Prairie is at a bearing of N 25° W up the river.
The Common Current taken with a Log runs 50 fathen in 40"Some places much Swifter in 30" and even 20 Seconds of time—five Deer killed to day
The Common Current measured with a log moves at 50 fathoms in 40 minutes. In some areas, it’s much faster, even at 30 and 20 seconds. Five deer were killed today.
[Clark, July 18, 1804]
July 18th Wednesday a fair morning the river falling fast, Set out at Sunrise under a gentle Breeze from S. E by S. at 3 miles passed the head of the Island on L. S. called by the French Chauve or bald pate (1) opsd. the middle of this Island the Creek on L. S. is within 300 yds. of the river. back of this Island the lower point of (2) another Island in the bend to the L. S. passed large Sand bar making out from each point with many channels passing through them, "Current runs 50 fathm. in 41 Seconds" but little timber on either Side of the river, except the Isds. & points which are low wet & Covered with lofty trees, Cotton wood Mulberry Elm &c. &c. passed the head of a long Island in high water at this time no water passes thro the Channel (3) opposit the Lower point of a Island on the L. S. pass the Island and opsd. the point (4) above & on the L. S. the hills come to the river, This Hill has Sliped into the river for about 3/4 of a mile, and leaves a Bluff of considerable hight back of it this Hill is about 200 foot high compsd. of Sand Stone inter mingled with Iron ore of an inferior quallity on a bed of Soft Slate Stone.
July 18th, Wednesday, a nice morning with the river dropping quickly. Set out at sunrise with a light breeze from the southeast. After 3 miles, we passed the head of the island on the left side, which the French call Chauve or bald head. In the middle of this island, the creek on the left is within 300 yards of the river. Behind this island, the lower point of another island in the bend on the left side has a large sandbar extending out from each point with many channels running through them. "Current runs 50 fathoms in 41 seconds." There’s not much timber on either side of the river, except for the islands and points, which are low, wet, and covered with tall trees like cottonwood, mulberry, and elm. We passed the head of a long island; with the high water at this time, no water flows through the channel opposite the lower point of an island on the left side. We passed the island and, opposite the point above, on the left side, the hills come to the river. This hill has slipped into the river for about three-quarters of a mile and leaves a bluff of considerable height behind it. This hill is about 200 feet high and made of sandstone mixed with poor-quality iron ore on a bed of soft slate stone.
We passed a verry bad Sand bar (4) a little above the hill and incmpd on the L. S. opposit a Small Island in the river, Saw a Dog this evening appeared to be nearly Starved to death, he must have been left by Some party of Hunters we gave him Some meet, he would not come near, G Drewrer brought in 2 Deer this evening
We passed a very bad sandbar (4) a little above the hill and camped on the left side opposite a small island in the river. We saw a dog this evening that looked like it was nearly starving to death; it must have been left by some group of hunters. We gave it some meat, but it wouldn't come near us. G. Drewrer brought in 2 deer this evening.
[Clark, July 18, 1804]
July 18th Wednesday 1804 a fair morning the river falling fast Set out this morning at Sun rise under a Gentle Breeze from the S. E. by S. passing over the Prarie, at about 3 Miles we passed the head of the Island L. S. Called by the French Chaube or Bald pate opposit the middle of (1) This Island the Creek on the S. S. is nearest the river, In high water an Island is formed in the bind above the last (2)- Measured the Current and found that in forty one Seconds it run yo fathoms but little timber is to be Seen except in the Low points on Islands & on Creeks, the Groth of timber is generally cotton Mulberry Elm Sycomore &c &c. passed a Island on the 2d point to the S. S. opposite the water (3) whin high passes out in the Plain oppsid this Island on the L. S. the hills jut to the river (4) this Hill has Sliped from the top which forms a Bluff above & 200 foot above the water, about 3/4 of a mile in length & about 200 feet in Depth has Sliped into the river it is Composed of Sand Stone intermixed with an indiffert. Iron ore near the bottom or next to the water is a Soft Slate Stone, Som pebble is also intermixt, we passed a verry bad Sand bar and incamped on the L. S. at the lower point of the oven Islands & opposit the Prarie Calld. by the french Four le Tourtue Saw a Dog nearly Starved on the bank, gave him Som meet, he would not follow, our hunters killed 2 Deer to day
July 18th, Wednesday, 1804—a clear morning with the river dropping quickly. We set out this morning at sunrise with a gentle breeze coming from the southeast by south. After about three miles, we passed the head of the island on the left side, called by the French Chaube or Bald Pate, opposite the middle of (1). On this island, the creek on the right side is closest to the river. During high water, an island forms in the bend above the last (2). We measured the current and found that it ran ten fathoms in forty-one seconds. There isn't much timber visible except on the low points of islands and along the creeks. The growth of timber mainly includes cottonwood, mulberry, elm, sycamore, etc. We passed an island on the second point on the right side, opposite the water (3). In high water, it flows out into the plain opposite this island on the left side. The hills extend toward the river (4); this hill has slipped from the top, creating a bluff that rises about 200 feet above the water, approximately three-quarters of a mile long and about 200 feet deep that has collapsed into the river. It consists of sandstone mixed with some iron ore, and near the bottom, next to the water, there's soft slate stone, along with some pebbles. We encountered a very bad sandbar and camped on the left side at the lower point of the oven islands, across from the prairie called by the French Four le Tourtue. I saw a nearly starved dog on the bank, gave him some meat, but he wouldn’t follow. Our hunters killed two deer today.
[Clark, July 19, 1804]
July 19th after breakfast which was on a rosted Ribs of a Deer a little and a little Coffee I walked on Shore intending only to Keep up with the Boat, Soon after I got on Shore, Saw Some fresh elk Sign, which I was induced to prosue those animals by their track to the hills after assending and passing thro a narrow Strip of wood Land, Came Suddenly into an open and bound less Prarie, I Say bound less because I could not See the extent of the plain in any Derection, the timber appeared to be confined to the River Creeks & Small branches, this Prarie was Covered with grass about 18 Inches or 2 feat high and contained little of any thing else, except as before mentioned on the River Creeks &c, This prospect was So Sudden & entertaining that I forgot the object of my prosute and turned my attention to the Variety which presented themselves to my view after continueing on this rise for Some minits, I deturmined to make my course to a line of woods to S. E. I found in this wood a butifull Streem of running water, in prosuing it down Several others Joined it and at 3 miles fell into the river between 2 clifts, I went up & under one clift of dark rich Clay for 1/2 me. above this a Clay bank which had Sliped in here I found Sand Stone Containing Iron ore, this ore appears to be inbeded under the Clay just above the water
July 19th, after having breakfast, which included roasted deer ribs and some coffee, I walked ashore intending only to keep up with the boat. Soon after I got on land, I saw some fresh elk tracks, which I felt compelled to follow into the hills. After climbing and passing through a narrow strip of woodland, I suddenly found myself in an open and endless prairie. I say endless because I couldn't see the limits of the plain in any direction; the trees seemed to be confined to the river creeks and small branches. This prairie was covered with grass about 18 inches to 2 feet high and contained little else, except for what I mentioned earlier about the river creeks, etc. This view was so sudden and captivating that I forgot my original pursuit and turned my attention to the variety of sights around me. After continuing on this rise for several minutes, I decided to head towards a line of woods to the southeast. In these woods, I discovered a beautiful stream of running water. As I followed it downstream, several other streams joined, and after 3 miles, it flowed into the river between two cliffs. I went up alongside one cliff of dark, rich clay for half a mile. Above this, I found a clay bank that had slipped in, and in that area, I discovered sandstone containing iron ore. This ore appears to be embedded beneath the clay just above the water.
[Clark, July 19, 1804]
July 19th Thursday 1804 Set out early pass between 2 Islands one in mid. & the other L. S. opsd. wher Prarie aproaches the river S. S. This place is called the Bakers oven or in french Four le Tour tere passd. Some highlands 41/2 ms. above the Isds. on the L. S. forming a Clift to the river of yellow earth, on the top a Prarie, passd. many a bad Sand bar in this distance, & the river wide & Shallow, above this Clift 2 Small butiffull runs Come from the Plains & fall into the river, a Deer lick on the first, above those two Creeks, I found in my walk on Shore Some ore in a bank which had Sliped in to the river 3/4 me. above the Creeks, I took a cerequite around & found that those two runs mentioned contained a good proposion of wood Surrounded by a plain, with grass about 18 Inchs. high, (Capt Lewis walked on Shore after Dinner) in the first bind to the right above those Runs passed a Small Island opsd. is a Sand bar I call this Island Butter Island, as at this place we mad use of the last of our butter, as we approach this Great River Platt the Sand bars are much more noumerous than they were, and the quick & roleing Sands much more danjerous, where the Praries aproach the river it is verry wide, the banks of those Plains being much easier to undermine and fall than the wood land passed (4) a willow Island Situated near the middle of the river, a Sand bar on the S. S. and a Deep bend to the L S. camped on the right Side of the Willow Island-W. Bratten hunting on the L. S Swam to the Island. Hunters Drewyer killed 2 Deer, Saw great numbers of young gees. The river Still falling a little Sand bars thick always in view.
July 19th, Thursday, 1804. We set out early and passed between two islands, one in the middle and the other on the left side, where the prairie meets the river on the south side. This spot is called Baker's Oven, or in French, Four le Tour. A bit further upstream, about 4.5 miles above the islands on the left side, there are some highlands forming a cliff made of yellow earth next to the river. On top, there's a prairie. We encountered a lot of bad sandbars along the way, and the river was wide and shallow. Above this cliff, two small, beautiful streams come from the plains and flow into the river. There was a deer lick at the first stream. Above those two creeks, I found some ore in a bank that had slipped into the river, three-quarters of a mile above the creeks. I circled around and discovered that those two streams had a good amount of wood surrounded by a plain with grass about 18 inches high. (Captain Lewis walked onshore after lunch.) In the first bend to the right above those streams, we passed a small island opposite a sandbar. I named this island Butter Island, as it was here we used the last of our butter. As we approach the great Platte River, the sandbars become much more numerous, and the shifting and rolling sands are far more dangerous. Where the prairies come near the river, it is very wide, and the banks of those plains are much easier to erode and collapse than the wooded areas. We passed a willow island located near the middle of the river, a sandbar on the south side, and a deep bend on the left side. We set up camp on the right side of the willow island. W. Bratten went hunting on the left side and swam to the island. Hunter Drewyer killed two deer and saw many young geese. The river is still dropping a little, and sandbars are always in sight.
[Clark, July 19, 1804]
July 19th, Thursday 1804 Set out early passed between two Small Islands, one in the middle of the river, the other Close on the L S. opposit a prarie S. S. Called (1) by the french Four le tourtre, The Bakers oven Islands, passed (2) Some high Clift 41/2 miles above the Islands on the L. S. of yellow earth passed Several Sand bars that were wide and at one place verry Shallow (two Small butifull runs falls into the river near each other at this Clift, a Deer Lick 200 yards up the Lowest of those runs) Those runs head at no great distance in the plains and pass thro of timber to the river. In my walk on Shore I found Some ore in the bank above those runs which I take to be Iron ore (3) at this place the Side of the hill has Sliped about half way into the river for 3/4 of a Mile forming a Clift from the top of the hill above. In the first bend to the right passed a Small Island a Sand bar opposit,—worthey of remark as we approach this great River Plate the Sand bars much more numerous and the quick or moveing Sands much worst than they were below at the places where Praries approach the river it is verry wide those places being much easier to wash & under Mine than the wood Land's. (4) passed a Willow Isd. Situated near the Middle of the river and a large Sand makeing out from the S. S. a Deep bend to the L S. we Camped at the head of this Island on the Starboard Side of it, Hunters Killed Two Deer. Saw great numbers of young Gees River falling a little.
July 19th, Thursday 1804 We set out early and passed between two small islands, one in the middle of the river and the other close to the left side, opposite a prairie on the south side. The French called the first one “Four le Tourtre,” or The Bakers Oven Islands. We passed some high cliffs about 4.5 miles above the islands on the left side, made of yellow earth. We navigated several wide sandbars, one of which was very shallow in one spot. Two small beautiful streams flow into the river near each other at these cliffs, and there's a deer lick 200 yards up the lower of those streams. These streams originate not far in the plains and flow through some timber to the river. During my walk on shore, I found some ore in the bank above those streams, which I believe to be iron ore. Here, the side of the hill has slipped about halfway into the river for three-quarters of a mile, forming a cliff from the top of the hill above. In the first bend to the right, we passed a small island and a sandbar opposite it—this is worth noting, as we approach this great River Plate, the sandbars are much more numerous, and the quicksand is worse than it was farther down. At the points where the prairies approach the river, it is very wide; these areas are much easier to wash out and undermine than the wooded lands. We passed a willow island situated near the middle of the river and a large sandbank extending out from the south side, creating a deep bend to the left side. We camped at the head of this island on the starboard side, and the hunters killed two deer. We saw a great number of young geese, and the river was falling a little.
[Clark, July 20, 1804]
July 20th Friday 1804, a fog this morning and verry Cool George Drewyer Sick proceed on over a Sand bar, Bratten Swam the river to get his gun & Clothes left last night psd a large willow Isd. on the L. S. (1) passed the mouth of l'Eau que pleure the English of which is the water which Cry's this Creek is about 20 yards wide falls into the river above a Gift of brown Clay L. S. opposit a willow Island, at this Creek I went on Shore took R Fields with me and went up this Creek Several miles & crossed thro the plains to the river above with the view of finding Elk, we walked all day through those praries without Seeing any, I killed an emence large yellow Wolf-The Countrey throu which we walked after leaveing the Creek was good land covered with Grass interspersed with Groves & Scattering timber near and about the heads of Branches one of them without Suckcess, Camped above the bar on the L. S. a verry agreeable Breeze all night Serjt. Pryor & Jo. Fields brought in two Deer river Still falling. a large Spring 3/4 me. below camp
July 20th, Friday, 1804. There was a fog this morning and it was very cool. George Drewyer is sick. We moved on over a sandbar. Bratten swam across the river to retrieve his gun and clothes left from last night. We passed a large willow island on the left side. We also passed the mouth of l'Eau que pleure, which means "the water that cries." This creek is about 20 yards wide and flows into the river above a gift of brown clay on the left side across from a willow island. At this creek, I went ashore, took R. Fields with me, and went upstream several miles, then crossed through the plains to the river above in hopes of finding elk. We walked all day through those prairies without seeing any. I killed a huge yellow wolf. The area we walked through after leaving the creek was good land covered with grass, dotted with groves and scattered trees, especially near the heads of branches. One of them was unsuccessful. We camped above the bar on the left side and enjoyed a very pleasant breeze all night. Sergeant Pryor and Jo. Fields brought in two deer. The river is still falling. There's a large spring three-quarters of a mile below camp.
[Clark, July 20, 1804]
July 20th, Friday 1804 a cool morning passed a large willow Island (1) on the S. S. and the mouth of Creek about 25 yds. wide on the L. S. Called by the french l'Eue-que pleure, or the the Water Which Cry's this Creek falls into the river above a Clift of brown Clay opposit the Willow Island, I went out above the mouth of this Creek and walked the greater part of the day thro Plains interspesed with Small Groves of Timber on the branches and Some Scattering trees about the heads of the runs, I Killed a Verry large yellow wolf, The Soil of Those Praries appears rich but much Parched with the frequent fires-" after I returned to the Boat we proceeded around a large Sand bar makeing out from the L. S. opsd. a fountain of water comeing out of a hill L. S. and affording water Suffient to turn a mill
July 20th, Friday 1804 was a cool morning as we passed a large willow island on the south side and the mouth of a creek about 25 yards wide on the left side. The French call it l'Eue-que pleure, or "the Water That Cries." This creek flows into the river above a cliff of brown clay opposite the willow island. I went out above the mouth of this creek and spent most of the day walking through plains scattered with small groves of timber along the branches and some lone trees near the heads of the streams. I killed a very large yellow wolf. The soil in those prairies seems rich but quite parched due to frequent fires. After returning to the boat, we continued around a large sandbar extending from the left side, opposite a fountain of water coming out of a hill on the left side, providing enough water to turn a mill.
The Praries as far as I was out appeared to be well watered, with Small Streems of running water Serjt. Pryor & Jo. Fields brought in two Deer this evening—a verry Pleasent Breeze from the N. W. all night—river falling a little, It is wothey of observation to mention that our party has been much healthier on the Voyage than parties of the Same Number is in any other Situation Turners have been troublesom to them all
The prairies, as far as I could see, seemed to be well-watered, with small streams of running water. Sergeant Pryor and Jo Fields brought in two deer this evening—a very pleasant breeze from the northwest all night—the river is falling a bit. It's worth noting that our group has been much healthier on this journey than other groups of the same size in any other situation. Turners have been troublesome to them all.
From this evenings incampment a man may walk to the Pane Village on the S bank of the Platt River in two days, and to the Otteaus in one day all those Indians are Situated on the South bank of the Plate River, as those Indians are now out in the praries following & Hunting the buffalow, I fear we will not See them.
From this evening's campsite, a person can walk to Pane Village on the south bank of the Platte River in two days, and to the Otteaus in one day. All those tribes are located on the south bank of the Platte River. Since those tribes are currently out on the plains following and hunting buffalo, I'm afraid we won't see them.
[Lewis, July 21, 1804]
July 21, 1804 by a boiling motion or ebolition of it's waters occasioned no doubt by the roling and irregular motion of the sand of which its bed is entirely composed. the particles of this sand being remarkably small and light it is easily boied up and is hurried by this impetuous torrent in large masses from place to place in with irristable forse, collecting and forming sandbars in the course of a few hours which as suddingly disapated to form others and give place perhaps to the deepest channel of the river. where it enters the Missouri it's superior force changes and directs the courant of that river against it's northern bank where it is compressed within a channel less than one third of the width it had just before occupyed. it dose not furnish the missouri with it's colouring matter as has been asserted by some, but it throws into it immence quantities of sand and gives a celerity to it's courant of which it abates but little untill it's junction with the Mississippy. the water of this river is turbid at all seasons of the year but is by no means as much so as that of the Missourie. The sediment it deposits, consists of very fine particles of white sand while that of the Missoury is composed principally of a dark rich loam-in much greater quantity
July 21, 1804, the boiling motion or agitation of its waters was likely caused by the rolling and uneven movement of the sand that makes up its entire bed. The grains of this sand are particularly small and light, making it easy to stir up and rush in large masses by this powerful torrent from one place to another with unstoppable force, building and reshaping sandbars within a few hours, only to suddenly disappear and form new ones, possibly creating the deepest channel of the river. Where it enters the Missouri, its superior force alters and redirects the current of that river against its northern bank, compressing it into a channel less than one-third the width it occupied just before. It doesn't provide the Missouri with its color, as some have suggested, but it does introduce huge amounts of sand and accelerates its current, which barely slows down until it joins the Mississippi. The water of this river is murky at all times of the year, but it's not as cloudy as the Missouri. The sediment it leaves behind consists of very fine particles of white sand, while the sediment of the Missouri is mainly made up of dark, rich loam, and in much greater amounts.
21st July from the experiments and observations we were enabled to make with rispect to the comparative velocities of the courants of the rivers Mississippi Missouri and Plat it results that a vessel will float in the Mississippi below the entrance of the Missouri at the rate of four miles an hour. in the Missouri from it's junction with the Mississsippi to the entrance of the Osage river from 51/2 to 6 from thence to the mouth of the Kanzas from 61/2 to 7. from thence to the Platte 51/2 while the Plat is at least 8.—The Missouri above the junction of the river plat is equal to about 31/2 miles an hour as far as the mouth of the Chyenne where its courant still abates and becomes equal to about three miles an hour from information it dose not increase it's volocity for
21st July: From the experiments and observations we conducted regarding the comparative speeds of the currents in the Mississippi, Missouri, and Platte rivers, we found that a vessel can float in the Mississippi below the entrance of the Missouri at a speed of four miles an hour. In the Missouri, from its junction with the Mississippi to the entrance of the Osage River, the speed ranges from 5.5 to 6 miles an hour. From there to the mouth of the Kanzas, it goes from 6.5 to 7 miles an hour, and from that point to the Platte, it’s about 5.5 miles an hour, while the Platte maintains at least 8 miles an hour. The Missouri above the junction with the Platte is about 3.5 miles an hour until it reaches the mouth of the Chyenne, where its current decreases to about three miles an hour. Based on reports, it does not increase its velocity for
[Clark, July 21, 1804]
July 21st Satturday, Set out verry early and a Gentle Breeze from the S. E proceeded on very well, passed a (1) Willow Island L. S. opsd. a bad Sand bar passed Some high land covered with Timber, in this Hill is Semented rock & Limestone the water runs out and forms Several little Islands in (2) high water on the S. S. a large Sand bar on the S. S. above and opposit the wooded High Land, at about 7 oClock the wind Seased and it Commenced raining passed many Sand bars opposit or in the Mouth of the Great River Plate this river which is much more rapid than the Missourie has thrown out imence quantities of Sand forming large Sand Banks at its mouth and forced the Missourie Close under the S. S. the Sands of this river Comes roleing down with the Current which is Crowded with Sand bars and not 5 feet water at any place across its mouth, the Rapidity of the Current of this river which is greater than that of the Missourie, its width at the Mouth across the bars is about 3/4 of a mile, higher up I am told by one of the bowmen that he was 2 winters on this river above and that it does not rise 7 feet, but Spreds over 3 miles at Some places, Capt Lewis & my Self went up Some Distance & Crossed found it Shallow. This river does not rise over 6 or 7 feet
July 21st, Saturday. Set out very early with a gentle breeze from the southeast. We made good progress, passing a (1) Willow Island on the left side, and navigated around a bad sandbar. We went by some high land covered in timber; in this hill, there is cemented rock and limestone. The water flows out, creating several little islands in (2) high water on the south side, where there's a large sandbar above, across from the wooded high land. Around 7 o'clock, the wind died down, and it started to rain. We passed many sandbars near or at the mouth of the Great River Plate. This river, which flows much faster than the Missouri, has deposited enormous amounts of sand, creating large sandbanks at its mouth and forcing the Missouri close under the south side. The sands from this river roll down with the current, which is crowded with sandbars and has no more than 5 feet of water at any point across its mouth. The current here is quicker than that of the Missouri, and the river is about three-quarters of a mile wide at its mouth across the bars. Higher up, one of the bowmen told me he spent two winters on this river upstream, where it doesn't rise more than 7 feet but spreads over 3 miles in some areas. Captain Lewis and I went upstream a little and found it shallow. This river doesn't rise more than 6 or 7 feet.
Proceeded on passed the mouth of Papillion or Butter fly Creek 3 miles on the L. S. a large Sand bar opposit on that Side Camped above this baron L. S. a great number of wolves about us all night R. Fields killed a Deer hard wind N. W. cold
Proceeded past the mouth of Papillion or Butterfly Creek, 3 miles on the L.S. A large sandbar across from that side. Camped above this bar on the L.S. There were a lot of wolves around us all night. R. Fields killed a deer. It was a strong northwest wind and cold.
[Clark, July 21, 1804]
July 21st, Satturday 1804 Set out early under a gentle breeze from the S. E. proceeded on verry well, passed (1) a willow Island on the L. S. opposit a bad Sand bar, Some high lands covered with timber L. S in this hill is limestone & Seminted rock of Shels &c. (2) in high water the opposit Side is cut thro by Several Small Channels, forming Small Islands, a large Sand bar opposit the Hill at 7 oClock the wind luled and it Commnc'd raining, arrived at the lower Mouth of the Great River Platt at 10 oClock (about 3 ms. above the Hill of wood land, the Same range of High land Continus within 3/4 of a mile of the mouth below) This Great river being much more rapid than the Missourie forces its current against the opposit Shore, The Current of This river Comes with great Velocity roleing its Sands into the Missouri, filling up its Bend & Compelling it to incroach on the S Shore—we found great dificuelty in passing around the Sand at the mouth of this River Capt Lewis and My Self with 6 men in a perogue went up this Great river Plate about 1 miles, found the Current verry rapid roleing over Sands, passing through different Channels none of them more than five or Six feet deep, about 600 yards Wide at the mouth—I am told by one of our Party who wintered two winters on This river that "it is much wider above, and does not rise more than five or Six feet" Spreds verry and from its rapidity & roleing Sands Cannot be navagated with Boats or Perogues—The Indians pass this river in Skin Boats which is flat and will not turn over. The Otteaus a Small nation reside on the South Side 10 Leagues up, the Panies on the Same Side 5 Leagus higher up—about 10 Leagus up this river on the S. Side a Small river Comes into the Platt Called Salt River, "The waters So brackish that it Can't be Drank at Some Seasons" above this river & on the North Side a Small river falls into the Platt Called Elk River This river runs Parralal withe the Missouri—at 3 miles passed a Small river on the L. S. Called Papillion or Butterfly C. 18 yds. wide a large Sand bar off the mouth, we proceeded on to get to a good place to Camp and Delay a fiew days, passed around this Sand bar and Came to for the night on the L. S. a verry hard wind from the N. W. I went on Shore S. S. and proceeded up one mile thro high Bottom land open a Great number of wolves about us this evening
July 21st, Saturday 1804 Set out early under a gentle breeze from the S.E. Made good progress, passed (1) a willow island on the left side, across from a bad sandbar. Some high ground covered with timber on the left side; this hill has limestone and cemented rock made of shells, etc. (2) In high water, the opposite side is cut through by several small channels, forming small islands. There's a large sandbar opposite the hill. At 7 o’clock, the wind dropped and it started raining. We arrived at the lower mouth of the Great River Platte at 10 o’clock (about 3 miles above the hill of woodland; the same range of high land continues within 3/4 of a mile of the mouth below). This great river is much faster than the Missouri, pushing its current against the opposite shore. The current of this river flows with great speed, rolling its sands into the Missouri, filling its bend and forcing it to encroach on the south shore. We had a lot of difficulty passing around the sand at the mouth of this river. Captain Lewis and I, along with 6 men in a pirogue, went up this Great River Platte about 1 mile, finding the current very rapid, rolling over sands, passing through different channels, none deeper than five or six feet, and about 600 yards wide at the mouth. I'm told by one of our party who wintered two winters on this river that "it is much wider above and doesn't rise more than five or six feet." It frequently spreads and, due to its rapidity and rolling sands, cannot be navigated with boats or pirogues. The Indians cross this river in skin boats, which are flat and won’t capsize. The Otteaus, a small nation, live on the south side, 10 leagues upstream, while the Panies are on the same side, 5 leagues further up. About 10 leagues up this river on the south side, a small river flows into the Platte called Salt River, "the waters are so brackish that it can't be drunk at certain seasons." Above this river, and on the north side, a small river flows into the Platte called Elk River. This river runs parallel to the Missouri. At 3 miles, we passed a small river on the left side called Papillion or Butterfly Creek, 18 yards wide, with a large sandbar at the mouth. We continued on to find a good place to camp and planned to stay for a few days, passed around this sandbar, and camped for the night on the left side, with a very strong wind coming from the northwest. I went ashore on the south side and moved up one mile through the high bottom land, encountering a large number of wolves around us this evening.
[Clark, July 22, 1804]
July 22nd Sunday Set out verry early with a view of getting Some timbered land & a good Situation to take equil altitudes in time proceeded on nearly a North 15° W 7 ms. to a pt. S. S. opposit Some high Lands on L. S. above the upper point of a long willow Island in the middle of the river 6 Deer killed to Day we deturmined to Stay here 4 or 5 days to take & make obsvts. & refresh our men also to Send Despatches back to govement—Wind hard N. W. Cold
July 22nd, Sunday Set out very early with the goal of getting some timberland and finding a good spot to take equal altitudes. Made our way nearly North 15° West for 7 miles to a point south-southwest opposite some high land on the left side, above the upper point of a long willow island in the middle of the river. We killed 6 deer today and decided to stay here for 4 or 5 days to take observations and refresh our men, as well as to send dispatches back to the government. Wind was strong from the northwest, and it was cold.
[Clark, July 22, 1804]
22nd of July 1804 Completlly arranged our Camp, posted two Sentinals So as to Completely guard the Camp, formd bowers for the min $cc. &. Course from R Plate N 15° W. 10 Ms.
22nd of July 1804 We completely set up our camp, posted two sentinels to fully guard the area, built shelters for the men, etc., and made our course from R Plate N 15° W. 10 miles.
[Clark, July 22, 1804]
July 22nd, Sunday 1804 Set out verry early with a view of Getting to Some Situation above in time to take equal altitudes and take Observations, as well as one Calculated to make our party Comfortabl in a Situation where they Could recive the benifit of a Shade—passed a large Sand bar opposit a Small river on the L. S. at 3 miles above Plate Called Papillion or Butterfly Creek a Sand bar & an Willow Island opposit a Creek 9 ms. above the Plate on the S. S. Called Mosquitos Creek Prarie on both Sides of the river. Came too and formed a Camp on the S. S. above a Small Willow Island, and opposit the first Hill which aproach the river on the L. S. and covered with timbers of Oake Walnut Elm &c. &. This being a good Situation and much nearer the Otteaus town than the Mouth of the Platt, we concluded to delay at this place a fiew days and Send for Some of the Chiefs of that nation to let them Know of the Change of Government, The wishes of our Government to Cultivate friendship with them, the Objects of our journy and to present them with a flag and Some Small presents
July 22nd, Sunday 1804. Set out very early with the goal of reaching a spot above in time to take equal altitudes and make observations, as well as finding a place that would allow our group to be comfortable in a shaded area. Passed a large sandbar across from a small river on the left side, three miles above a location called Papillion or Butterfly Creek, a sandbar and a willow island across from a creek nine miles above the previous spot on the south side, called Mosquito Creek. Prairie was on both sides of the river. We stopped and set up camp on the south side above a small willow island, opposite the first hill that comes close to the river on the left side, which was covered with oak, walnut, elm, etc. Since this was a good spot and much closer to the Otteau town than the mouth of the Platte, we decided to stay here for a few days and send for some of the chiefs of that nation to inform them about the change of government, our government's desire to build friendship with them, the purpose of our journey, and to present them with a flag and some small gifts.
Some of our Provisions in the French Perogue being wet it became necessary to Dry them a fiew days—Wind hard from N W. five Deer Killed to day—The river rise a little
Some of our supplies in the French Perogue got wet, so we needed to dry them for a few days. The wind was strong from the northwest. We killed five deer today. The river rose a bit.
[Lewis, July 22, 1804]
July 22nd 1804. A summary discription of the apparatus employed in the following observations; containing also some remarks on the manner in which they have been employed, and the method observed in recording the observations made with them.
July 22nd 1804. A brief description of the equipment used in the following observations; also including some comments on how they were used and the method followed in recording the observations made with them.
1st—a brass Sextant of 10 Inches radius, graduated to 15 which by the assistance of the nonius was devisible to 15"; and half of this sum by means of the micrometer could readily be distinguished, therefore-7.5" of an angle was perceptible with this instrument; she was also furnished with three eye-pieces, consisting of a hollow tube and two telescopes one of which last reversed the images of observed objects. finding on experiment that the reversing telescope when employed as the eye-piece gave me a more full and perfect image than either of the others, I have most generally imployed it in all the observations made with this instrument; when thus prepared I found from a series of observations that the quantity of her index error was 8' 45"-; this sum is therefore considered as the standing error of the instrument unless otherwise expressly mentioned. the altitudes of all objects, observed as well with this instrument as with the Octant were by means of a reflecting surface; and those stated to have been taken with the sextant are the degrees, minutes, &c shewn by the graduated limb of the instrument at the time of observation and are of course the double altitudes of the objects observed.
1st—a brass sextant with a 10-inch radius, graduated to 15 degrees, which could be divided to 15 seconds with the help of the nonius; half of this value could easily be distinguished with the micrometer, meaning that 7.5 seconds of an angle was perceivable with this instrument. It was also equipped with three eyepieces, consisting of a hollow tube and two telescopes, one of which reversed the images of observed objects. Upon experimenting, I found that the reversing telescope, when used as the eyepiece, provided a clearer and more complete image than either of the others, so I generally used it for all the observations with this instrument. When set up this way, I discovered through a series of observations that the index error was 8 minutes and 45 seconds; this amount is therefore considered the standard error of the instrument unless noted otherwise. The altitudes of all objects observed with both this instrument and the octant were measured using a reflecting surface; those reported as taken with the sextant are the degrees, minutes, etc., indicated by the graduated limb of the instrument at the time of observation and are, of course, the double altitudes of the observed objects.
2ed—A common Octant of 14 Inches radius, graduated to 20', which by means of the nonius was devisbile to 1', half of this sum, or 30" was perceptible by means of a micrometer. this instrument was prepared for both the fore and back observation; her error in the fore observation is 2°+, & and in the back observtion 2° r 1' 40.3" + at the time of our departure from the River Dubois untill the present moment, the sun's altitude at noon has been too great to be reached with my sextant, for this purpose I have therefore employed the Octant by the back observation. the degrees ' & ", recorded for the sun's altitude by the back observation express only the angle given by the graduated limb of the instrument at the time of observation, and are the complyment of the double Altitude of the sun's observed limb; if therefore the angle recorded be taken from 180° the remainder will be the double altitude of the observed object, or that which would be given by the fore observation with a reflecting surface.
2ed—A standard Octant with a radius of 14 inches, marked to 20', can be divided to 1' using the nonius, and half of this division, or 30", is detectable through a micrometer. This instrument was designed for both forward and backward observations; her error in the forward observation is 2°+, and in the backward observation, it's 2° 1' 40.3". Since we left the River Dubois until now, the sun's altitude at noon has been too high for my sextant, so I've used the Octant for the backward observation. The degrees ' & " noted for the sun's altitude from the backward observation only indicate the angle shown on the graduated limb of the instrument at the time of observation, and they reflect the double altitude of the sun's observed limb. Therefore, if you subtract the recorded angle from 180°, the result will be the double altitude of the observed object, or what would be obtained from a forward observation using a reflecting surface.
3rd—An Artificial Horizon on the construction recommended and practiced by Mr. Andrw. Ellicott of Lancaster, Pensyla., in which water is used as the reflecting surface; believing this artificial Horizon liable to less error than any other in my possession, I have uniformly used it when the object observed was sufficiently bright to reflect a distinct immage; but as much light is lost by reflection from water I found it inconvenient in most cases to take the altitude of the moon with this horizon, and that of a star impracticable with any degree of accuracy.
3rd—An artificial horizon based on the design recommended and used by Mr. Andrew Ellicott of Lancaster, Pennsylvania, which utilizes water as the reflecting surface. I believe this artificial horizon has less potential for error than any other I own, so I have consistently used it when the observed object is bright enough to reflect a clear image. However, since a lot of light is lost due to reflection from the water, I found it impractical to measure the altitude of the moon with this horizon and nearly impossible to do so with any star accurately.
4th—An Artificial Horizon constructed in the manner recommended by Mr. Patterson of Philadelphia; glass is here used as the reflecting surface. this horizon consists of a glass plane with a single reflecting surface, cemented to the flat side of the larger segment of a wooden ball; adjusted by means of a sperit-level and a triangular stand with a triangular mortice cut through it's center sufficiently large to admit of the wooden ball partially; the stand rests on three screws inserted near it's angles, which serve as feet for it to rest on while they assist also in the adjustment. this horizon I have employed in taking the altitude of the sun when his image he has been reather too dull for a perfect reflection from water; I have used it generally in taking the altitude of the moon, and in some cases of the stars also; it gives the moon's image very perfectly, and when carefully adjusted I consider it as liable to but little error.
4th—An artificial horizon made as recommended by Mr. Patterson of Philadelphia; glass is used as the reflecting surface. This horizon consists of a glass plane with a single reflecting surface, cemented to the flat side of the larger segment of a wooden ball. It is adjusted using a spirit level and a triangular stand with a triangular mortise cut through its center, large enough to partially admit the wooden ball. The stand rests on three screws positioned near its corners, which serve as feet and also aid in the adjustment. I have used this horizon to measure the altitude of the sun when its image has been a bit too dull for a perfect reflection from water; I generally use it for measuring the altitude of the moon, and in some cases, for stars as well. It captures the moon's image very accurately, and when carefully adjusted, I believe it has minimal error.
5th—An Artificial Horizon formed of the index specula of a Sextant cemented to a flat board; adjusted by means of a sperit level and the triangular stand before discribed. as this glass reflects from both surfaces it gives the images of all objects much more bright than either of the other horizons; I have therefore most generally employed it in observing the altitudes of stars
5th—An artificial horizon made from the index mirrors of a sextant attached to a flat board; adjusted using a spirit level and the triangular stand mentioned earlier. Since this glass reflects from both surfaces, it produces images of all objects that are much brighter than those seen with other horizons; therefore, I have mostly used it for observing the altitudes of stars.
6th—A Chronometer; her ballance-wheel and escapement were on the most improved construction. she rested on her back, in a small case prepared for her, suspended by an universal joint. she was carefully wound up every day at twelve oclock. Her rate of going as asscertained by a series of observations made by myself for that purpose was found to be 15 Seconds and a 5 tenths of a second too slow in twenty four howers on Mean Solar time. This is nearly the same result as that found by Mr. Andrew Ellicott who was so obliging as to examine her rate of going for the space of fourteen days, in the summer 1803. her rate of going as ascertained by that gentleman was 15.6 s too slow M. T. in 24 h. and that she went from 3 to 4 s. slower the last 12 h, than she did the first 12 h. after being wound up.
6th—A chronometer; its balance wheel and escapement were made with the latest technology. It rested on its back in a small case designed for it, suspended by a universal joint. It was carefully wound every day at twelve o'clock. The rate of its timekeeping, determined through a series of observations I conducted for that purpose, was found to be 15 seconds and 5 tenths of a second too slow over twenty-four hours on Mean Solar time. This is nearly the same result as that found by Mr. Andrew Ellicott, who kindly examined its timekeeping for a period of fourteen days in the summer of 1803. His assessment found the rate to be 15.6 seconds too slow M.T. in 24 hours, and that it was 3 to 4 seconds slower in the last 12 hours compared to the first 12 hours after being wound.
at 12 OCk. on the 14th day of may 1804 (being the day on which the detachment left the mouth of the River Dubois) the Chronometer was too fast M. T. 6 m. 32 s. & 2/10.—This time-piece was regulated on meantime, and the time entered in the following observations is that shewn by her at the place of observation. the day is recconed on Civil time, (i e) commencing at midnight.
at 12:00 PM on May 14, 1804 (the day the team left the mouth of the River Dubois), the chronometer was running too fast by 6 minutes and 32 seconds and 2/10. This timepiece was adjusted based on mean time, and the times recorded in the following observations are as shown by it at the observation location. The day is calculated based on civil time, meaning it starts at midnight.
7th—A Circumferentor, circle 6 Inches diameter, on the common construction; by means of this instrument adjusted with the sperit level, I have taken the magnetic azimuth of the sun and pole Star. It has also been employed in taking the traverse of the river:—from the courses thus obtained, together with the distances estimated from point to point, the chart of the Missouri has been formed which now accompanys these observations. the several points of observation are marked with a cross of red ink, and numbered in such manner as to correspond with the celestial observations made at those points respectively.
7th—A circumferentor, with a 6-inch diameter, made from common materials; using this tool, adjusted with a spirit level, I've measured the magnetic azimuth of the sun and the North Star. It was also used to survey the river: from the courses taken and the distances estimated from point to point, I've created the chart of the Missouri that accompanies these observations. The various observation points are marked with a red ink cross and numbered to match the celestial observations made at those specific locations.
[Clark, July 23, 1804]
Camp 10 Ms. above the river Plate Monday July the 23rd a fair morning—Sent out a party of 5 men to look to timber for Ores two other parties to hunt at 11 oClock Sent, G. Drewyer & Peter Crusett 1/2 Indn. to the Otteaus Village about 18 ms. West of our Camp, to invite the Chiefs & principal men of that nation to come & talk with us &. &., also the panic if they Should meet with any of that nation (also on the S. Side of the Plate 30 ms. higher up) (at this Season of the year all the Indians in this quater are in the Plains hunting the Buffalow from Some Signs Seen by our hunter and the Praries being on fire in the derection of the Village induce a belief that the Nation have returned to get green Corn) raised a flag Staff put out Some provisions which got wet in the french Perogue to Sun & Dry—I commenced Coppying my map of the river to Send to the Presdt. of U S. by the Return of a pty of Soldiers, from Illinois five Deer Killed—one man a bad riseing on his left breast. Wind from the N. W.
Camp 10 miles above the River Plate Monday, July 23rd It was a nice morning. I sent out a group of 5 men to gather timber for our ores and sent two other parties to hunt. At 11 o’clock, I sent G. Drewyer and Peter Crusett, who is half-Indian, to the Otteau Village about 18 miles west of our camp to invite the chiefs and important men of that tribe to come and talk with us. Also, if they run into any of that tribe (who are also on the south side of the Plate, 30 miles further up), we wanted them to let them know we’re here. At this time of year, all the Indians in this area are out in the plains hunting buffalo. Some signs seen by our hunters and the prairies being on fire in the direction of the village lead us to believe that the tribe has come back for the green corn. We raised a flagstaff and put out some provisions that got wet in the French perogue to dry in the sun. I started copying my map of the river to send to the President of the U.S. by the return of a party of soldiers from Illinois. We killed five deer. One man has a bad swelling on his left breast. The wind is from the northwest.
[Clark, July 23, 1804]
Camp White Catfish 10 Miles above the Platt River Monday the 23rd of July 1804 A fair morning Set a party to look for timber for Ores, two parties to hunt. at 11 oClock Sent off George Drewyer & Peter Crousett with Some tobacco to invite the Otteaus if at their town and Panies if they Saw them to Come and talk with us at our Camp &c. &c. (at this Season the Indians on this river are in the Praries Hunting the Buffalow but from Some Signs of hunters near this place & the Plains being on fire near their towns induce a belief that they this nation have returned to get Some Green Corn or rosting Ears) raised a flag Staff Sund & Dryed our provisions &c. I commence Coppying a map of the river below to Send to the P. ____ U S five Deer Killed to day one man with a turner on his breast, Prepared our Camp the men put their arms in order
Camp White Catfish 10 Miles above the Platt River Monday, July 23, 1804 A nice morning. I sent a group to look for timber for the ores, and two groups to hunt. At 11 o'clock, I sent George Drewyer and Peter Crousett with some tobacco to invite the Otteaus, if they were in their town, and the Panies, if they saw them, to come and talk with us at our camp, etc. (At this time of year, the Indians on this river are in the prairies hunting buffalo, but some signs of hunters nearby and the plains being on fire near their towns lead me to believe this nation has returned to get some green corn or roasting ears.) We raised a flagpole, dried our provisions, etc. I began copying a map of the river below to send to the P. ____ U S. Five deer were killed today, one man got a turner on his breast. We prepared our camp, and the men got their arms ready.
Wind hard this afternoon from the N. W.
Equal altitudes taken at the White Catfish Camp, 10 miles above the river Platt-
Equal altitudes taken at the White Catfish Camp, 10 miles above the river Platt-
[Clark, July 24, 1804]
White Catfish Camp 24th of July Tuesday. a fair morning the wind rose with the Sun & blows hard from the S. thos Southerley Breezes are dry Cool & refreshing. the Northerley Breezes which is more frequent is much Cooler, and moist, I continue my Drawing. Cap Lewis also ingaged prepareing Som paper to Send back, one of the men cought a white Catfish, the eyes Small, & Tale resembling that of a Dolfin.
White Catfish Camp, July 24th, Tuesday. It was a pleasant morning as the wind picked up with the sun and blew strongly from the south. Those southern breezes are dry, cool, and refreshing. The northern breezes, which are more common, are much cooler and moist. I continued my drawing. Captain Lewis was also busy preparing some papers to send back. One of the men caught a white catfish; its eyes were small, and its tail resembled that of a dolphin.
[Clark, July 24, 1804]
White Catfish Camp 10 Ms. above Platt 24th, of July 1804 Tuesday a fair day the wind blows hard from the South, the Breezes which are verry frequent on this part of the Missouri is cool and refreshing. Several hunters out to day; but as the game of all Kinds are Scarce only two Deer were brought in—I am much engaged drawing off a map, Capt. Lewis also much engaged in prepareing Papers to Send back by a pirogue—Which we intended to Send back from the river Plate—observations at this place makes the Lattitude 41° 3' 19" North
White Catfish Camp, July 24, 1804, Tuesday It’s a fair day with a strong wind blowing from the south. The breezes, which are very common in this part of the Missouri, are cool and refreshing. Several hunters went out today, but since game of all kinds is scarce, only two deer were brought in. I’m busy drawing a map, and Captain Lewis is also occupied preparing papers to send back by a pirogue, which we plan to send back from the River Plate. Observations at this location indicate the latitude is 41° 3' 19" North.
This evening Guthrege Cought a white Catfish, its eyes Small & tale much like that of a Dolfin
This evening, Guthrege caught a white catfish, its eyes small and tail much like that of a dolphin.
[Clark, July 25, 1804]
White Catfish Camp 25th of July Wednesday. Several hunters Sent out. at 2 oClock the Two men Sent to the Otteaz Village returned and informed that no Indians were at the Town they Saw Some fresh Sign near that place which they persued, but Could not find them, they having taken precausions to Conceal the rout which they went out from the Villagethe Inds. of the Missouries being at war with one & the other or other Indians, move in large bodies and Sometimes the whole nation Continue to Camp together on their hunting pls. Those men inform that they passed thro a open Plain all the way to the Town a feiw Trees excepted on the watercourses—they Cross the papillion or the Butterfly Creek within a feiw miles of Camp and near the Village a handsm. river of 100 yards Wide Called the Corne de chearf or the Elkhorn, which mouths below the Town in the Plate N. Side. Wind from the S. E. 2 Deer & a Turkey Killed to Day Several Grous Seen in the Prarie
White Catfish Camp, July 25th, Wednesday. Several hunters were sent out. At 2 o'clock, the two men sent to Otteaz Village returned and informed us that there were no Indians in the town. They saw some fresh tracks near that area which they pursued, but they couldn't find them since the Indians had taken precautions to hide the route they used to leave the village. The Indians of the Missouries, being at war with each other, move in large groups and sometimes the entire nation camps together in their hunting grounds. The men reported that they passed through an open plain all the way to the town, except for a few trees along the waterways. They crossed the Papillion or Butterfly Creek a few miles from camp and near the village was a handsome river about 100 yards wide called the Corne de chearf or the Elkhorn, which flows into the Platte on the north side. The wind was from the southeast. Two deer and a turkey were killed today, and several grouse were seen in the prairie.
[Clark, July 25, 1804]
White Catfish Camp 25th of July Wednesday a fair morning Several hunters out today at 2 oClock Drewyer & Peter returned from the Otteaus Village; and informs that no Indians were at their towns, They Saw Some fresh Signs of a Small party but Could not find them. in their rout to the Towns (Which is about 18 miles West) they passed thro a open Prarie Crossed papillion or Butterfly Creek and a Small butifull river which run into the Platt a little below the Town Called Corne de charf or Elk Horn river this river is about 100 yards wide with Clear water & a gravely Channel.—wind from the S. E two Deer Killed to day 1 Turkey Several Grous Seen to day.
White Catfish Camp 25th of July, Wednesday A nice morning. Several hunters went out today. At 2 o'clock, Drewyer and Peter returned from the Otteaus Village and reported that no Indians were in their towns. They saw some fresh signs of a small group but couldn’t locate them. On their way to the towns (which are about 18 miles west), they passed through an open prairie, crossed Papillion or Butterfly Creek, and a small but beautiful river that flows into the Platte a little below the town called Corn de Charf or Elk Horn River. This river is about 100 yards wide with clear water and a gravelly channel. The wind is coming from the southeast. Two deer were killed today, and one turkey was spotted. Several grouse were seen today.
[Clark, July 26, 1804]
Whit Catfish Camp 26th of July Thursday. the wind blew Verry hard all Day from the South with Clouds of Sand which incomoded me verry much in my tent, and as I could not Draw in the Boat was obliged Combat with the Misqutr. under a Shade in the woods-. I opened the Breast of a man the discharge gave him ease &c. 5 beaver Caught near Camp-only 1 Deer Killed to day. The Countrey back from Camp on the S. S. is a bottom of about 5 ms. wide one half the Distn. timber, the other high bottom Prarie, the opsd. Side a high Hill about 170 foot rock foundatio. Timbered back & below. a Prarie
Whit Catfish Camp, July 26th, Thursday. The wind blew very hard all day from the south, carrying clouds of sand that bothered me a lot in my tent. Since I couldn’t row the boat, I had to deal with the mosquitoes under the shade in the woods. I opened the chest of a man; the discharge relieved him, etc. We caught 5 beavers near camp but only killed 1 deer today. The area behind the camp on the south side is a bottomland about 5 miles wide—half of it is timber, and the other half is high bottom prairie. The opposite side has a high hill with a rocky foundation about 170 feet high, with timbered areas both behind and below, plus a prairie.
[Clark, July 26, 1804]
Catfish which is White Camp 26th of July Thursday 1804 the wind blustering and hard from the South all day which blowed the Clouds of Sand in Such a manner that I could not complete my pan in the tent, the Boat roled in Such a manner that I could do nothing in that, I was Compessed to go to the woods and Combat with the Musqutors, I opened the Turner of a man on the left breast, which discharged half a point.
Catfish, White Camp, July 26, 1804. The wind was strong and blowing from the south all day, whipping up clouds of sand that made it impossible for me to finish my pan in the tent. The boat was rocking so much that I couldn't do anything there either. I had to head to the woods and deal with the mosquitoes. I opened the turner of a man on the left breast, which discharged half a point.
five Beever Cought near this Camp the flesh of which we made use of- This evening we found verry pleasent—only one Deer Killed to day. The Countrey back from Camp on the S. S. is a bottom of about five mile wide, one half the distance wood & the ball. plain high & Dry. the opposed Side a high Hill about 170 foot rock foundation, Covd. with timber, back & below is a Plain.
five Beever were caught near this camp, and we used their meat. This evening we found it very pleasant—only one deer was killed today. The area back from camp on the south side is a bottomland about five miles wide; half of that distance is wooded, and the rest is a high, dry plain. The opposite side has a high hill with a rock foundation about 170 feet tall, covered with timber, and there’s a plain behind and below.
[Lewis, July 27, 1804]
white Catfish Camp July 27th Friday, Charged the Boat and Perogue after a Small Shower of rain, Completed our ores & poles, Crossed over the two horses, with a View of their going on the S W. Side of the Missouri and Set out at Half past 1 oClock proceeded on Verry well under a gentle Breeze. passed a high Island of high wood land on the L. Side just above Camp, this Island is formed by a pond Supplied by a great number of Springs from this hill, this Pond has 2 out lets, & when the river is high the water passes thro the pond, passed a Sand Island in the 2nd bend to the right. Camped in a bend to the L. S. in Some wood, I took R. Fields & walked on Shore & Killed a Deer, and did not get to the Boat untile after night a butifull Breeze from the N W. this evening which would have been verry agreeable, had the Misquiters been tolerably Pacifick, but thy were rageing all night, Some about the Sise of house flais
white Catfish Camp July 27th Friday, We loaded the boat and canoe after a brief rain shower, finished our oars and poles, transported the two horses, with a view of them moving on the southwest side of the Missouri, and set out at 1:30 PM. We continued smoothly under a light breeze. We passed a high island of dense woodland on the left side just above camp; this island is formed by a pond fed by numerous springs from the hill. The pond has two outlets, and when the river is high, the water flows through the pond. We passed a sand island in the second bend to the right. We camped in a bend on the left side in some woods. I took R. Fields and walked ashore and killed a deer. I didn’t get back to the boat until after dark; there was a beautiful breeze from the northwest this evening that would have been very pleasant, if the mosquitoes hadn't been so aggressive, but they were raging all night, some about the size of houses.
[Clark, July 27, 1804]
White Catfish Camp 10 ms above Platt 27th of July Friday, a Small Shower of rain this morning, at 10 oClock Commence Loading the Boat & perogue; had all the Ores Completely fixed; Swam over the two remaining horses to the L. S. with the view of the Hunters going on that Side, after Getting everry thing Complete, we Set Sale under a gentle breeze from the South and proceeded on, passed a Island (formd by a Pond fed by Springs) on the L. S. of high Land Covered with timber, in the 2nd bend to the right a large Sand Island in the river a high Prarie on the S. S.-. as we were Setting out to day one man Killed a Buck & another Cut his Knee verry bad Camped in a Bend to the L. Side in a Coops of Trees, a verry agreeable Breeze from the N W. this evening. I Killed a Deer in the Prarie and found the Misquitors So thick & troublesom that it was disagreeable and painfull to Continue a moment Still.
White Catfish Camp, July 27th, Friday, 10 miles above Platt. It rained a little this morning. At 10 o'clock, we started loading the boat and canoe; we had everything secured. I swam the last two horses to the left side, since the hunters were going that way. After getting everything ready, we set sail under a gentle breeze from the south and moved on, passing an island formed by a pond fed by springs on our left, with high land covered in timber. In the second bend to the right, there was a large sand island in the river and a high prairie on the right side. While we were starting out today, one man shot a buck, and another hurt his knee badly. We camped in a bend on the left side in a grove of trees, enjoying a nice breeze from the northwest this evening. I killed a deer in the prairie and found the mosquitoes so thick and bothersome that it was really unpleasant and painful to stay still for even a moment.
I took one man R. Fields and walked on Shore with a View of examoning Som mounds on the L. S. of the river—those mounds I found to be of Deffirent hight Shape & Size, Some Composed of Sand Some earth & Sand, the highest next to the river all of which covered about 200 acres of land, in a circular form on the Side from the river a low bottom & Small Pond. The Otteaus formerly lived here I did not get to the boat untile after night.
I took a guy named R. Fields and walked along the shore to check out some mounds on the left side of the river. I found that these mounds varied in height, shape, and size. Some were made of sand, while others had a mix of earth and sand. The tallest ones were right next to the river, covering about 200 acres of land in a circular pattern. On the river side, there was a low area and a small pond. The Otteaus used to live here. I didn't make it back to the boat until after dark.
[Clark, July 28, 1804]
July 28th Satturday Set out this morning early, the wind blou from the N. W. by N. a Dark Smokey Morning, Some rain at 1 me. passed a Bluff on the S. S. it being the first high land approachig the river above the Nodaway, a Island and Creek S. S. just abov this creek I call Indian Knob G. Drewyer Came with a Deer &informs he heard fireing to the S. W. I walked on Shore on the S. S. found some good Prarie out from the S. pt. The High Lands approach the river 1st bend to left The party on Shore brought in a Missouri Indian who resides with the Otteauz, this Indian & 2 others were Hunting in the Prarie their Camp is about 4 miles off. This Indian informs that his nation is in the Plains hunting the Buffalow, the party with which he is encamped is about 20 familey Hunting the Elk, we landed on S. S. below an Island
July 28th, Saturday We set out early this morning; the wind was blowing from the N.W. by N. It was a dark, smoky morning with some rain falling at 1 PM. We passed a bluff on the S.S., which was the first high ground approaching the river above the Nodaway. There's an island and creek on the S.S. just above this creek, which I named Indian Knob. G. Drewyer came back with a deer and told us he heard gunfire to the S.W. I walked along the shore on the S.S. and found some good prairie out from the S. point. The highlands approach the river at the first bend to the left. The group onshore brought in a Missouri Indian who lives with the Otteauz. This Indian and two others were hunting in the prairie; their camp is about 4 miles away. He informed us that his nation is in the plains hunting buffalo, and the group he's with has about 20 families hunting elk. We landed on the S.S. below an island.
[Clark, July 28, 1804]
July the 28th, Satturday 1804 Set out this morning early, the wind from the N W. by N. a Dark Smokey morning Some rain passed at 1 me. a Bluff on the S. S. the first high land above the Nodaway aproaching the river on that Side a Island and Creek 15 yds. wide on the S. S. above this Bluff, as this Creek has no name call it Indian Knob Creek our party on Shore Came to the river and informs that they heard fireing to the S W. below this High Land on the S. S. the Aiawuay Indians formerly lived, The flank came in & informed they heard two Guns to the S. W. the highland approaches in the 1st bend to the left, we camped on the S. S. below the point of an Island, G Drewyer brought in a Missourie Indian which he met with hunting in the Prarie This Indian is one of the fiew remaining of that nation, & lives with the Otteauz, his Camp about 4 miles from the river, he informs that the great gangue of the nation were hunting the Buffalow in the Plains. hs party was Small Consisting only of about 20 Lodges, ____ miles furthr a nother Camp where there was a french man, who lived in the nation, This Indian appeard spritely, and appeared to make use of the Same pronouncation of the Osarge, Calling a Chief Inca July 29th SundayWe Sent one frenchman le Liberty & the Indian to the Camp to envite the party to meet us at the next bend of High Land on the L. S. a Dark morning wind from the W. N. W. rained all last night Set out at 5 oClock &, proceeded on passed the Island, opposit this Island on the S. S. the Creek called Indian Knob Creek which mouths Several miles on a Direct line below, is within 20 feet of the Missouri & about 5 feet higher
July 28th, Saturday, 1804. We set out early this morning with a northwest wind. It was a dark, smoky morning with some rain by 1 PM. There was a bluff on the south side, the first high ground above the Nodaway River approaching from that side. There was an island and a creek 15 yards wide on the south side above this bluff. Since this creek has no name, we decided to call it Indian Knob Creek. Our party on shore reached the river and reported hearing gunfire to the southwest, below this high ground where the Aiawuay Indians used to live. The flank group came back and mentioned they heard two shots to the southwest as the highlands sloped down at the first bend to the left. We camped on the south side below the point of an island. G. Drewyer brought back a Missouri Indian he met while hunting in the prairie. This Indian is one of the few remaining of his nation and lives with the Otteauz, his camp about 4 miles from the river. He told us that the bulk of his nation was hunting buffalo on the plains. His party was small, consisting of only about 20 lodges. A little further away, there was another camp with a Frenchman who lived among the nation. This Indian seemed lively and used similar pronunciations to the Osage, calling a chief "Inca." July 29th, Sunday. We sent a Frenchman named Liberty and the Indian to the camp to invite the party to meet us at the next bend of high land on the left side. It was a dark morning with a wind from the northwest, and it rained all night. We set out at 5 o'clock and continued on, passing the island. Opposite this island, on the south side, is Indian Knob Creek, which empties several miles down a straight line below, and is about 20 feet from the Missouri and about 5 feet higher.
Cought three large Cat fish to day verry fat one of them nearly white those Cat are So plenty that they may be Cought in any part of this river but fiew fish of any other Kind.
Caught three large catfish today, very fat. One of them is nearly white. Those catfish are so plentiful that they can be caught in any part of this river, but few fish of any other kind.
(4) at the commencement of this course passed much fallen timber apparently the ravages of a dreadful haricane which had passed obliquely across the river from N. W. to S. E. about twelve months since. many trees were broken off near the ground the trunks of which were sound and four feet in diameter.
(4) At the beginning of this course, we came across a lot of fallen timber, likely the result of a terrible hurricane that had struck diagonally across the river from Northwest to Southeast about a year ago. Many trees were broken off near the ground, but their trunks were intact and about four feet in diameter.
Willard lost his gun in Bowyers R. R. Fields Dive & brought it up All the Wood Land on this part of the Missouries Appear to be Confined to the Points & Islands.
Willard lost his gun in Bowyers R. R. Fields Dive and brought it up. All the woodland in this part of Missouri seems to be limited to the points and islands.
Boyers River is provably 25 yds. Wide, Willard near loseing his Gun in this river, two men Sick & Sevral with Boils, a Cold Day Wind from the N W. Som rain the fore part of the Day.
Boyers River is definitely 25 yards wide. Willard nearly lost his gun in this river. Two men are sick, and several have boils. It's a cold day with wind coming from the northwest and some rain in the morning.
[Clark, July 29, 1804]
July 29th Sunday 1804 Sent a french man la Liberty with the Indian to Otteaze Camp to invite the Indians to meet us on the river above—a Dark rainey morning wind from the W. N. W.—rained all the last night—Set out at 5 oClock opposit the (1) Island, the bend to the right or S. S. is within 20 feet of Indian Knob Creek, the water of this Creek is 5 feet higher than that of the River. passed the Isld. we Stoped to Dine under Some high Trees near the high land on the L. S. in a fiew minits Cought three verry large Catfish (3) one nearly white, Those fish are in great plenty on the Sides of the river and verry fat, a quart of Oile Came out of the Surpolous fat of one of these fish (4) above this high land & on the S. S. passed much falling timber apparently the ravages of a Dreadfull harican which had passed obliquely across the river from N. W. to S E about twelve months Since, many trees were broken off near the ground the trunks of which were Sound and four feet in Diameter, (2) about 3/4 of a Me. above the Island on the S. S. a Creek corns in Called Boyers R. this Creek is 25 yards wide, one man in attempting to Cross this Creek on a log let his gun fall in, R. Fields Dived & brought it up proceeded on to a Point on the S. S. and Camped.
July 29th, Sunday, 1804 Sent a French man, La Liberty, with the Indian to Otteaze Camp to invite the Indians to meet us on the river upstream—a dark, rainy morning with wind from the NW. It rained all night. We set out at 5 o'clock opposite the (1) Island; the bend to the right or south side is within 20 feet of Indian Knob Creek, and the water in this creek is 5 feet higher than in the river. After passing the island, we stopped to eat under some tall trees near the high land on the left side. In a few minutes, we caught three really large catfish (3), one nearly white. These fish are plentiful along the sides of the river and very fat; a quart of oil came out of the surplus fat of one of these fish (4). Above this high land on the south side, we passed a lot of fallen timber, likely from a terrible hurricane that passed diagonally across the river from NW to SE about a year ago. Many trees were broken off near the ground, their trunks sound and four feet in diameter. (2) About 3/4 of a mile above the island on the south side, a creek called Boyers River comes in; this creek is 25 yards wide. One man, while trying to cross this creek on a log, dropped his gun in. R. Fields dove in and retrieved it. We then proceeded to a point on the south side and camped.
[Clark, July 30, 1804]
July the 30th Monday Set out early & proceeded on West 33/4 mes. passd. one pt. to the L. S and one to the S. S. to a Clear open Prarie on the L. S. which is on a rise of about 70 feet higher than the bottom which is also a prarie covered with high grass Plumbs Grape Vine & Hezel-both forming a Bluff to the River, the Lower Prarie is above high water mark at the foot of the riseing ground & below the High Bluff we came to in a grove of timber and formed a Camp raised a flag Pole, and deturmind to waite for the Ottu Indians—The white Horse which we found below Died last night, after posting out the Guards &c. &. Sent out 4 men to hunt I am ingaged in ____ and Drawing off my courses to accompany the map Drawn at White Catfish Camp, Capt. Lewis and my Self walked in the Prarie on the top of the Bluff and observed the most butifull prospects imagionable, this Prarie is Covered with grass about 10 or 12 Inch high, (Land rich) rises about 1/2 a mile back Something higher and is a Plain as fur as Can be Seen, under those high Lands next the river is butifull Bottom interspersed with Groves of timber, the River may be Seen for a great Distance both above & below meandering thro the plains between two ranges of High land which appear to be from 4 to 20 ms. apart, each bend of the river forming a point which Contains tall timber, principally Willow Cotton wood some Mulberry elm Sycamore & ash. the groves Contain walnit coffeenut & Oake in addition & Hickory & Lynn Jo. Fields Killed Brarow or as the Ponie call it Cho car tooch, this animale burrows in the ground & feeds on Bugs and flesh principally the little Dogs of the Prarie, also Something of Vegetable Kind his Shape & Size is like that of a Beever, his head Mouth &c. is like a Dog with its ears Cut off, his tale and hair like that of a Ground hog Something longer and lighter, his interals like a Hogs, his Skin thick & loose, white & hair Short under its belly, of the Species of the Bear, and it has a white Streake from its nose to its Sholders, the Toe nails of its fore feet which is large is 1 Inch and 3/4 qtr. long and those of his hind feet which is much Smaller is 3/4 long. We have this animale Skined and Stuffed. Short legs, raseing himself just above the ground when in motion Jo & R. fields Killed Som Deer at a Distance and Came in for a horse to bring them in, they have not returned this evening, a gred number of Swans in a pond above L. S. to our Camp. Serjt. Floyd verry unwell a bad Cold &c. Several men with Boils, great qts. of Catfish G. D. Cought one Small Beever alive. Som Turkey & Gees Killed to day. arms & all things in order. a fair evining, and Cool.
July 30th, Monday. Set out early and headed west for 3¾ miles. Passed one point on the left side and one on the right side to a clear, open prairie on the left side, which is about 70 feet higher than the bottom. The bottom is also a prairie covered with tall grass, plums, grapevines, and hazel, all forming a bluff by the river. The lower prairie is above high water mark at the base of the rising ground. Below the high bluff, we found a grove of timber and set up camp, raising a flagpole, and decided to wait for the Ottu Indians. The white horse we found earlier died last night. After posting the guards, I sent out four men to hunt. I am engaged in _____ and charting my courses to accompany the map drawn at White Catfish Camp. Capt. Lewis and I walked on the prairie at the top of the bluff and observed the most beautiful sights imaginable. This prairie is covered with grass about 10 to 12 inches high (the land is rich), rising about half a mile before it gets slightly higher, and it is a plain as far as the eye can see. Beneath those high lands next to the river is a lovely bottomland interspersed with groves of timber. The river can be seen for a great distance both upstream and downstream, meandering through the plains between two ranges of high land that appear to be 4 to 20 miles apart, with each bend of the river creating a point filled with tall timber, primarily willow, cottonwood, some mulberry, elm, sycamore, and ash. The groves also contain walnut, coffee nut, oak, hickory, and linden. Fields killed a brarow, or as the pony calls it, cho car tooch. This animal burrows underground and primarily feeds on bugs and meat, particularly the small prairie dogs, along with some plant matter. Its shape and size are similar to a beaver, but its head and mouth resemble a dog with its ears cut off. Its tail and fur are like that of a groundhog, but longer and lighter. Its insides are like a pig’s. The skin is thick and loose, white with short hair underneath, and it belongs to the bear species with a white stripe running from its nose to its shoulders. The toenails of its front feet, which are large, are 1 inch and ¾ of a quarter long, while those of its hind feet, which are much smaller, are ¾ long. We have this animal skinned and stuffed. It has short legs and raises itself just above the ground when moving. Jo and R. Fields killed some deer at a distance and went to get a horse to bring them in; they haven’t returned this evening. There are a great number of swans in a pond above the left side near our camp. Sergeant Floyd is very unwell with a bad cold. Several men have boils. A large quantity of catfish; G. D. caught one small beaver alive. Some turkeys and geese were killed today. Arms and everything are in order. It’s a nice evening, and cool.
[Clark, July 30, 1804]
July 30th Monday 1804 Set out this morning early proceeded on to a Clear open Prarie on the L. S. on a rise of about 70 feet higher than the bottom which is also a Prarie both forming Bluffs to the river of High Grass & Plumb bush Grapes &c. and Situated above high water is a Small Grove of timber at the foot of the Riseing Ground between those two priraries, and below the Bluffs of the high Prarie we Came too and formed a Camp, intending to waite the return of the french man & Indians—the white horse which we found near the Kanzeis River, Died Last night
July 30th, Monday, 1804 We set out early this morning and continued on to a clear, open prairie on the left side, rising about 70 feet above the bottom, which is also a prairie. Both prairies create bluffs by the river filled with tall grass, plum bushes, grapes, and so on. Situated above the high water mark, there’s a small grove of trees at the foot of the rising ground between the two prairies. Below the bluffs of the high prairie, we arrived and set up camp, planning to wait for the return of the Frenchman and the Indians. The white horse we found near the Kansas River died last night.
posted out our guard and Sent out 4 men, Captn. Lewis & went up the Bank and walked a Short Distance in the high Prarie. this Prairie is covered with Grass of 10 or 12 inches in hight. Soil of good quallity &, Still further back at the Distance of about a mile the Countrey rises about 80 or 90 feet higher, and is one Continual Plain as fur as Can be Seen, from the Bluff on the 2d rise imediately above our Camp the most butifull prospect of the River up & Down and the Countrey opsd. prosented it Self which I ever beheld; The River meandering the open and butifull Plains, interspursed with Groves of timber, and each point Covered with Tall timber, Such as willow Cotton Sun Mulberry, Elm, Sucamore, Lynn & ash (The Groves Contain Hickory, Walnut, Coffeenut & Oake in addition)
We posted our guard and sent out four men, including Captain Lewis, and went up the bank to walk a short distance in the tall prairie. This prairie is covered with grass that is about 10 to 12 inches high. The soil is of good quality, and further back, about a mile away, the land rises about 80 to 90 feet higher and is one continuous plain as far as the eye can see. From the bluff on the second rise immediately above our camp, there was the most beautiful view of the river, both upstream and downstream, and the surrounding country. The river meanders through the open, lovely plains, dotted with groves of trees, and each point is covered with tall trees, such as willow, cottonwood, mulberry, elm, sycamore, linden, and ash. The groves also contain hickory, walnut, coffee tree, and oak.
Two ranges of High Land parrelel to each other and from 4 to 10 miles Distant between which the river & its bottoms are Contained. (from 70 to 300 feet high)
Two ranges of high land run parallel to each other and are 4 to 10 miles apart, between which the river and its floodplains are located. (from 70 to 300 feet high)
Joseph Fields Killed and brought in an Anamale Called by the French Brarow, and by the Ponies Cho car tooch this Anamale Burrows in the Ground and feeds on Flesh, (Prarie Dogs), Bugs, & vigatables—"His Shape & Size is like that of a Beaver, his head mouth &c. is like a Dogs with Short Ears, his Tail and Hair like that of a Ground Hog, and longer, and lighter. his Interals like the interals of a Hog," his Skin thick and loose, his Belly is White and the Hair Short—a white Streek from his nose to his Sholders.
Joseph Fields killed and brought in an animal called by the French Brarow, and by the Ponies Cho car tooch. This animal burrows in the ground and feeds on flesh (prairie dogs), bugs, and vegetables. Its shape and size are similar to that of a beaver, its head and mouth resemble a dog's, with short ears. Its tail and fur are like those of a groundhog, but longer and lighter. Its insides are like those of a hog, its skin is thick and loose, its belly is white with short hair, and there’s a white streak from its nose to its shoulders.
The toe nails of his fore feet is one Inch & 3/4 long, & feet large; the nails of his hind feet 3/4 of an Inch long, the hind feet Small and toes Crooked, his legs are Short and when he Moves Just Suffcent to raise his body above the Ground He is of the Bear Species. we hav his Skin Stuffed
The toenails on his front feet are 1 inch and ¾ inch long, and his feet are large; the nails on his back feet are ¾ inch long, and his hind feet are small with crooked toes. His legs are short, and when he moves, it's just enough to lift his body off the ground. He is part of the bear species. We have his skin stuffed.
Jo. & R. Fields did not return this evening, Several men with Verry bad Boils—Cat fish is Cought in any part of the river Turkeys Gees & a Beaver Killed & Cought every thing in prime order men in high Spirits. a fair Still evening Great no. misquitors this evening
Jo. & R. Fields didn't come back tonight. Several guys have really bad boils—catfish are being caught all over the river. Turkeys, geese, and a beaver were killed, and everything is in great shape. The guys are in good spirits. It's a nice, calm evening with a lot of mosquitoes around.
[Lewis, July 30, 1804]
July the 30th this day Joseph Fields killed a Braro as it is called by the French engages. this is a singular anamal not common to any part of the United States. it's weight is sixteen pounds.—it is a carniverous anamal. on both sides of the upper jaw is fexed one long and sharp canine tooth.- it's eye are small black and piercing.
July 30th, today Joseph Fields killed a Braro, as it's called by the French traders. This is a unique animal not found in any part of the United States. It weighs sixteen pounds. It is a carnivorous animal. On both sides of the upper jaw, there is one long, sharp canine tooth. Its eyes are small, black, and piercing.
[Clark, July 31, 1804]
July 31st Tuesday a fair Day 3 hunters out this morning G. Drewyer Killed a verry fat Buck one Inch fat on the ribs Merdn. altd Latd. is 41° 18' 0" 5/10-North. R & Jo. Fields returned at 10 oClock the Killed 3 Deer, and lost the horses, Cought a Small Beever which is already taim, Several men out hunting the horses without Sukcess, The Ottoes not yet arrived, I complete the Copy of the Courses &c. &c. Musqueters verry troubleson
July 31st, Tuesday, a pleasant day. Three hunters went out this morning. G. Drewyer shot a very fat buck with an inch of fat on its ribs. The latitude is 41° 18' 0" 5/10 North. R. and Jo. Fields returned at 10 o'clock; they killed 3 deer and lost the horses. They caught a small beaver that is already tamed. Several men are out hunting for the horses without success. The Ottoes have not arrived yet. I completed the copy of the courses, etc. Mosquitoes are very bothersome.
[Clark, July 31, 1804]
July 31st, Tuesday a fair Day three Hunters out, Took meridian altitude made the Lattd. 41° 18' 1" 5/10 N. R. & Jo. Fields returned to Camp They Killed 3 Deer.—The Horses Strayed off last night. Drewyer Killed a Buck one inch of fat on the ribs, R. & Jo. Fields returned without any meet haveing been in persuit of the horses—The Indians not yet arrived. Cought a young Beever alive which is already quit tame-. Cought a Buffalow fish—The evening verry Cool, The Musqutors are yet troublesom.-
July 31st, Tuesday, a nice day. Three hunters went out, took the midday altitude and measured the latitude at 41° 18' 1" 5/10 N. R. & Jo. Fields came back to camp. They killed 3 deer. The horses wandered off last night. Drewyer killed a buck that had one inch of fat on the ribs. R. & Jo. Fields returned without any meat since they were looking for the horses. The Indians haven’t arrived yet. Caught a young beaver alive that is already quite tame. Caught a buffalo fish. The evening was very cool, and the mosquitoes are still bothersome.
[Clark, August 1, 1804]
August the 1st 1804 a fair morning, Sent out two men after the horses & one back to examine if the Indians have been there, ____ Beever Cought last night, the air is Cool and pleasing
August 1, 1804, a nice morning. I sent out two men to look for the horses and one back to check if the Indians have been around. ____ Beever was caught last night; the air is cool and pleasant.
Prepared the Pipe of Peace verry flashey. wind rose at 10 oClock and blowed from the W. S. W. very pleasent all day Several men geathering grapes &c. two men after the horses which Strayed the night before last. those Praries produce the Blue Current Common in the U. S. the Goose Berry Common in the U. S, two Kind of Honeysuckle, the Bush which I have Seen in Kentucky, with a paile Pink flower, also one which grow in Clusters about 4 or 5 feet high bearing a Short flour in clusters of the like Colour. the leaves Single. 3 Deer & an Elk Killed to day. This being my birth day I order'd a Saddle of fat Vennison, an Elk fleece & a Bevertail to be cooked and a Desert of Cheries, Plumbs, Raspberries Currents and grapes of a Supr. quallity. The Indians not yet arrived. a Cool fine eveninge Musquetors verry troublesom, the Praries Contain Cheres, Apple, Grapes, Currents, Rasp burry, Gooseberris Hastlenuts and a great Variety of Plants & flours not Common to the U S. What a field for a Botents and a natirless
Prepared the Pipe of Peace, very flashy. The wind picked up at 10 o'clock and blew from the W.S.W., very pleasant all day. Several men were gathering grapes, etc. Two men went after the horses that had strayed the night before last. Those prairies produce the blue currants common in the U.S., the gooseberries common in the U.S., two kinds of honeysuckle, and a bush that I have seen in Kentucky with pale pink flowers. There’s also one that grows in clusters about 4 to 5 feet high, bearing short flowers in clusters of the same color. The leaves are single. We killed 3 deer and an elk today. Since it’s my birthday, I ordered a saddle of fat venison, an elk fleece, and a beaver tail to be cooked, along with a dessert of cherries, plums, raspberries, currants, and grapes of superior quality. The Indians have not arrived yet. It’s a cool, nice evening, but mosquitoes are very bothersome. The prairies contain cherries, apples, grapes, currants, raspberries, gooseberries, hazelnuts, and a great variety of plants and flowers not common in the U.S. What a field for a botanist and a naturalist!
[Clark, August 1, 1804]
August the 1st 1804 a fair morning Despatched two men after the horses lost yesterday, one man back to the place from which the messinger was Sent for the Ottoes to See if any Indians was or had been there Since our deptr. he return'd and informed that no person had been there Sence we left it. The Prarie which is Situated below our Camp is above the high water leavel and rich Covered with Grass from 5 to 8 feet high intersperced with Copse of Hazel, Plumbs, Currents (like those of the U.S.) Rasberries & Grapes of Dift. Kinds. also produceing a Variety of Plants and flowers not Common in the United States, two Kind of honey Suckle one which grows to a kind of a Srub. Common about Harrods burgh in Kentucky the other are not So large or tall and bears a flower in Clusters Short and of a light Pink Colour, the leaves differ from any of the othe Kind in as much as the Lieves are Distinkd & does not Surround the Stalk as all the other Kind does one Elk and three Deer Killed to day also two Beever Cought
August 1, 1804, was a nice morning. We sent two men after the horses we lost yesterday, and one man went back to the place where the messenger was sent to check on the Ottoes to see if any Indians had been there since we left. He came back and reported that no one had been there since we departed. The prairie located below our camp is above the high water level and lush, covered with grass that's 5 to 8 feet high, interspersed with clumps of hazel, plums, currants (similar to those in the U.S.), raspberries, and various kinds of grapes. It also has a variety of plants and flowers not commonly found in the United States. There are two kinds of honeysuckle: one grows into a type of shrub common near Harrodsburg in Kentucky, while the other is smaller and bears clusters of short, light pink flowers. The leaves of this second kind are distinct and do not surround the stalk as the leaves of the first kind do. We also killed one elk and three deer today, as well as caught two beavers.
The wind rose at 10 oClock from the W. S. W. and blew a Steedy and agreeable Breeze all Day.
The wind picked up at 10 o'clock from the W.S.W. and blew a steady and pleasant breeze all day.
The Musqutors verry troublesom this evening in the bottoms.
The mosquitoes are really bothersome this evening in the low areas.
Took equal altitudes to day and the azmuth with the Commencement of the A.M.
Took equal altitudes today and the azimuth at the start of the A.M.
[Clark, August 2, 1804]
August 2nd 1804 wind from the SE G. Drewery returned with the horses & one Doe Elk the countrey thro which he passed is like what we See from the Bluff above Camp three men out Hunting one Beaver caught this morning.
August 2nd, 1804, wind from the SE. G. Drewery came back with the horses and one doe elk. The area he traveled through looks similar to what we see from the bluff above camp. Three men are out hunting; one beaver was caught this morning.
at Sunset 6 chiefs and their warries of the Ottos, and Missoures, with a french man by the name of Far fonge, we Shook hands and gave them Some Tobacco & Provisions, they Sent us Water Millions Three verry large & fat Bucks Killed to day the wind Continue hard from the S. E.- the 4 qtr. of one Buck weigh'd 147 wt 11/2 Inch fat on the ribs
at sunset, six chiefs and their warriors from the Ottos and Missouris, along with a Frenchman named Farfonge, shook hands with us. We gave them some tobacco and provisions, and they sent us water. We also got three very large and fat bucks killed today. The wind continues strong from the southeast. The hindquarter of one buck weighed 147 pounds with 1.5 inches of fat on the ribs.
[Clark, August 2, 1804]
August 2nd Thursday 1804 A verry pleasent Breeze from the S. E. The Two men Drewyer & Colter returned with the horses loaded with Elk, those horses they found about 12 miles in a Southerly Derection from Camp.
August 2nd Thursday 1804 A very pleasant breeze from the S.E. The two men, Drewyer and Colter, returned with the horses loaded with elk. They found the horses about 12 miles to the south of camp.
The Countrey thro which they passed is Similar to what we See from Camp. one Beaver & a foot of Beaver caught in trap Cought this morning at Sunset Mr. Fairfong and a pt. of Otteau & Missourie Nation Came to Camp, among those Indians 6 were Chiefs, the principal Chiefs Capt. Lewis & myself met those Indians & informed them we were glad to See them, and would Speak to them tomorrow, Sent them Som rosted meat Pork flour & meal, in return they Sent us Water millions. every man on his Guard & ready for any thing Three fat Bucks Killed this evening the 4 qtrs. of one weighed 147 lbs.
The area they traveled through is similar to what we see from camp. We caught one beaver and a foot of beaver in a trap this morning at sunset. Mr. Fairfong, along with a group from the Otteau and Missouri Nations, arrived at camp. Among those Indians, six were chiefs. Captain Lewis and I met with them and told them we were happy to see them and would speak with them tomorrow. We sent them some roasted meat, pork, flour, and meal, and in return, they sent us plenty of water. Every man is on guard and ready for anything. Three fat bucks were killed this evening, and the four quarters of one weighed 147 lbs.
[Lewis, August 2, 1804]
August 2ed 1804. This day one of our Hunters brought me a white Heron. this bird as an inhabitant of ponds and Marasses, and feeds upon tadpoles, frogs, small fish &c—they are common to the Mississipi and the lower part of the ohio River, (ie) as high as the falls of that river.
August 2, 1804. Today, one of our hunters brought me a white heron. This bird, which lives in ponds and wetlands, feeds on tadpoles, frogs, small fish, etc. They are commonly found in the Mississippi and the lower part of the Ohio River, as far upstream as the falls of that river.
this bird weighed two lbs.—it's plumage is perfectly white and very thin
this bird weighed two lbs.—its plumage is completely white and very thin
F I. from extremity of beak to the extremity of toe 4 71/4 from tipp to tip of wing on the back 4 11
F I. from the tip of the beak to the tip of the toe 4 71/4 from tip to tip of the wing on the back 4 11
it's beak is yellow pointed, flated crosswise and 5 Inches in length from the upper region of the bill to the eye is one inch in length, covered with a smoth yellow skin the plumage of the head projecting towards the upper bill and coming to a point a an Inch beyond the eyes on the center of the upper bill. The mouth opens to distance of the eyes—The eye is full and projecting reather, it is 7/10 of half an inch. four joints in the wing
its beak is yellow, pointed, flattened sideways, and 5 inches long from the top of the bill to the eye, which is 1 inch long and covered with smooth yellow skin. The feathers on the head extend toward the upper bill and come to a point an inch beyond the eyes at the center of the upper bill. The mouth opens to the distance of the eyes. The eye is round and slightly protruding, measuring 7/10 of half an inch. There are four joints in the wing.
Inches 1st joint from body in length 6 2ed Do. 81/4 3rd Do. 31/2 4th Do. 1 1st joint Number of feathers 7 Length of 3 2nd 18 6 3 6 from 10 to 12 4th 5 12
Inches 1st joint from body in length 6 2nd Do. 81/4 3rd Do. 31/2 4th Do. 1 1st joint Number of feathers 7 Length of 3 2nd 18 6 3 6 from 10 to 12 4th 5 12
it's legs are black—the neck and beak occupy 1/2 it's length. it has four toes on a foot—the outer toe on the right foot is from the joining of the leg to extremity of toe nale 4 Inch & 1/4 has four joints exclusive of the nail joint—the next is 43/4 inches has three joints exclusive of the nale joint. the next is 33/4 and has two joints, the heel toe has one joint only and is 3 Inches in length. the nails are long sharp and black—the eye is of a deep seagreen colour, with a circle of of pale yellow around the sight forming a border to the outer part of the eye of about half the width of the whole eye. the tale has 12 feathers of six inches in length.—the wings when folded are the same length with the tale.
its legs are black—the neck and beak make up half its length. it has four toes on each foot—the outer toe on the right foot connects where the leg meets the end of the toe and measures 4 inches and 1/4, with four joints excluding the nail joint—the next toe is 4 3/4 inches long and has three joints excluding the nail joint. the following toe is 3 3/4 inches long and has two joints, while the heel toe has only one joint and measures 3 inches in length. the nails are long, sharp, and black—the eye is a deep sea green, with a pale yellow ring around it, forming a border about half the width of the entire eye. the tail has 12 feathers, each 6 inches long—the wings, when folded, are the same length as the tail.
has 2 remarkable tufts of long feathers on each side joining the body at the upper joint of the wing. these cover the feathers of the 1st joint of the wings when they are over extended
has 2 striking tufts of long feathers on each side connecting to the body at the upper joint of the wing. These cover the feathers of the 1st joint of the wings when they are fully extended.
[Clark, August 3, 1804]
August 3rd Friday prepare a Small preasent for those Indians and hold a Councul Delivered a Speech & made 8 6 chief... gave a fiew preasents and, a Smoke a Dram, Some Powder & Ball—the man we Sent not yet come up, Those people express great Satisfaction at the Speech Delivered they are no Oreters, big, open Counternances, ottoes large Missor Small
August 3rd, Friday, prepared a small gift for the Indians and held a council. Delivered a speech and made 86 chiefs... gave a few gifts, a smoke, a drink, some powder, and ball—the man we sent hasn't arrived yet. Those people expressed great satisfaction at the speech delivered; they are no orators, big, open faces, either large or small.
at 4 oClock Set out under a gentle Breeze from the S. E proceeded on N. 5° E 5 Ms. Passed a Pt. on the S. S. and round a large Sand bar on the L. S. and Camped above, below a great number of Snags quit across the river, The Musquitors more numerous than I ever Saw them, all in Spirrits, we had Some rough Convasation G. Dr. about boys.
at 4 o'clock we set out under a gentle breeze from the southeast, heading north 5° east for 5 miles. We passed a point on the south side and navigated around a large sandbar on the left side. We camped above a number of snags that crossed the river. The mosquitoes were more numerous than I had ever seen before, but we were in good spirits. We had some rough conversations with G. Dr. about boys.
The Osage & Kansies are the Same language
The Osage and Kansa languages are the same.
the Ottoes & Mahars Speek many words of the Osarge language
the Ottoes & Mahars speak many words of the Osage language
The Ottos, Aiaways, & Missouries Speake the Same language the Panies & Recreries Speak the Same language also the Loups & repub. the Mahar, & Poncarar the Same Language The Cheaun, Mandin & Grovanter the Same The Probibility is that those defferant tribes have once formed 3 great nats. Viz: the Missouries, Osarge, Kanzes, Ottoes, Mahars, & Poncaras & Aiauaies one nation.
The Ottos, Aiaways, and Missouries speak the same language as the Panies. The Recreries also speak the same language as the Loups and the Mahar, and Poncaras speak the same language. The Cheaun, Mandin, and Grovanter do too. The probability is that these different tribes once formed three great nations: the Missouries, Osarge, Kanzes, Ottos, Mahars, Poncaras, and Aiaways as one nation.
The Panies, Loups, Republican, Recrerees the 2nd
The Panies, Loups, Republican, Recrerees the 2nd
The Mandans Cheeons, & Grovanters the 3rd The tribes of the Soux all retain the name 4th
The Mandans, Cheeons, and Grovanters, the 3rd. The tribes of the Sioux all retain the name. 4th
It is possible that the, Mahar & Poncarear may have been a Distinct nation, as they only Speek Some words of the osage which have the Same Signification 25 Days to St Ta fee S. of W. Cross the heads of Arkansies around the head of Kanzies River after Delivering a Speech informing thos Children of ours of the Change which had taken place, the wishes of our government to Cultivate friendship & good understanding, the method of have good advice & Some Directions, we made 1 Great Chief to the who was not present, to whom we adresed the Speech & Sent Some presents or Meadels & flag, we made 2 Second Chiefs one for the Missouris & another for the Ottos (those two tribes are nearly equal 1'70 each) and 4 principal men, to thos principal men to thos we gave a Small Comtn. to each man to whom we gave authority, a preasn of Br. Ch. Gart. g. Paint & a med. or Contn a Small Corns. was delivered for the whole each Chief & principal man delivered a Speech acknowledging ther approbation to what they had heard and promised to prosue the good advice and Caustion, they were happy w new fathers who gave good advice & to be Depended on all Concluded by asking a little Powder & a Drop of Milk.
It’s possible that the Mahar & Poncarear were a distinct nation, as they only speak a few words of Osage that have the same meaning. 25 days to St. Ta fee S. of W., we crossed the heads of the Arkansies around the head of Kanzies River. After delivering a speech to inform our children of the changes that had taken place, we shared our government's desire to cultivate friendship and understanding, and offered some advice and guidance. We appointed one Great Chief to whom we addressed the speech and sent some presents, including medals and a flag. We made two Second Chiefs, one for the Missouris and another for the Ottos (these two tribes are nearly equal in size, about 170 each), and appointed four principal men. To these principal men, we gave a small commission to each one, authority, and gifts of tobacco, paint, and a medal. A small commission was delivered to each Chief and principal man, and they all delivered a speech acknowledging their approval of what they heard and promised to follow our good advice and caution. They expressed happiness with their new fathers who gave them good advice and whom they could rely on. All concluded by asking for a little gunpowder and a drop of milk.
I answered those Speeches gave them 50 balls one Canister of Powder & a
Dram—after Cap Lewis Shot his air gun a few times which astonished the
nativs, we Set Sail. recved from thos people water millions & The
Cheifs & Principal men of the Ottoes & Missouris made by M L. & W C the
3rd August 1804
Viz. Indian Names Tribe English
Signifiation
1. We-ar-ruge-nor Ottoe Little Thief
2. Shingo-ton go Otto Big horse
We tha a Missourie Hospatallity
3. Wau-pe-ur Miss.
Au-ho-ning ga M
Ba Za con ja Ottoe
Au-ho-ne-ga Miss.
I responded to those speeches by giving them 50 balls, one canister of powder, and a dram. After Captain Lewis shot his air gun a few times, which amazed the natives, we set sail. We received from those people water in abundance, and the chiefs and principal men of the Ottoes and Missouris made by M L. & W C on August 3, 1804.
Viz. Indian Names Tribe English
Signification
1. We-ar-ruge-nor Ottoe Little Thief
2. Shingo-ton go Otto Big Horse
We tha a Missourie Hospitality
3. Wau-pe-ur Miss.
Au-ho-ning ga M
Ba Za con ja Ottoe
Au-ho-ne-ga Miss.from this place I am told by Mr. Faufong the interpeter that it will take a man 25 Days to go to St. a fee pass, the heads of Arkansas, round the Kansas head, across Some mountains from the top of which the City may be Seen the Spaniards have envited those Indians & the Panies to trade with them & Some french & a few indians are gorn from the Panias to that City this Summer-
from this place, Mr. Faufong, the interpreter, tells me that it will take a man 25 days to get to St. a fee pass, the heads of Arkansas, around the Kansas head, across some mountains from the top of which the city can be seen. The Spaniards have invited those Indians and the Panies to trade with them, and some French and a few Indians have gone from the Panias to that city this summer.
The Situation of this place which we Call Council Bluff which is handsom ellevated a Spot well Calculated for a Tradeing establishment, the Bank high & leavel on top well Calculated for a fort to Command the Countrey and river the low bottom above high water & well Situated under the Command of the Hill for Houses to trade with the Natives a butifull Plain both abov and below at no other bend on either Side does the High land touch the river for Some distance up, as I am told.
The situation of this place we call Council Bluff is nicely elevated, making it ideal for a trading establishment. The bank is high and level on top, which is great for a fort to control the area and the river. The low land above high water is well-situated under the hill for houses to trade with the natives. It’s a beautiful plain both above and below; at no other bend on either side does the high land reach the river for quite a distance, as I've been told.
those Bluffs afford good Clay for Brick, a great quantity on the 3 points one Opsd. one abov &one below.—the Situation I am informed is, within 1 Days march of the Ottoes, 11/2 of the Panias, 2 of the Mahars, & 21/2 of the Loups Villages, also Convenient to the roveing Bands of Soux, Those people are now at war with each other, an establishment here would bring about peace and be the means of Keeping of it.
Those bluffs have good clay for making bricks, with a large amount available at three points: one opposite, one above, and one below. I’ve been told that the location is within a day's march of the Ottoes, one and a half days from the Panias, two days from the Mahars, and two and a half days from the Loups' villages. It's also convenient for the roaming bands of Sioux. These groups are currently at war with each other, and setting up a community here would help bring about peace and maintain it.
Augt. 3d Camped on the upper point of a large Sand bar L. S. Misquters verry bad. Some place near Conncill Bluff will be the most proper place for a tradeing establishment, for maney of the nations, the distance is to the Ottoes one Days, Ponies 11/2 days, to the Mahar, 2 days, to Loups 2 Days & a half 16 or 1800 men-and convenient for Some bands of the Sues,
Aug. 3rd Camped on the upper end of a large sandbar on the Missouri River. Mosquitoes are really bad. A location near Council Bluff would be the best spot for a trading post because it's a day's journey to the Ottoes, a day and a half to the Ponies, two days to the Mahars, and two and a half days to the Loups, which consist of about 1,600 to 1,800 men—and it's convenient for some bands of the Sioux.
[Clark, August 3, 1804]
August 3rd, Friday 1804 made up a Small preasent for those people in perpotion to their Consiqunce. also a package with a meadile to accompany a Speech for the Grand Chief after Brackfast we Collected those Indians under an orning of our Main Sail, in presence of our Party paraded & Delivered a long Speech to them expressive of our journey the wirkes of our Government, Some advice to them and Directions how They were to Conduct themselves, the princapal Chief for the nation being absente we sent him the Speech flag Meadel & Some Cloathes. after hering what they had to say Delivered a medal of Second Grade to one for the Ottos & and one for the Missourie present and 4 medals of a third Grade to the inferior Chief two for each tribe. Those two parts of nations, Ottos & Missouries now residing together is about 250 men are the Ottoes Composeing 2/3d and Missourie 1/3 part
August 3rd, Friday 1804, we prepared a small gift for those people based on their significance. We also put together a package with a medal to accompany a speech for the Grand Chief. After breakfast, we gathered those Indians under the shade of our main sail, in front of our party, and delivered a lengthy speech to them about our journey, the workings of our government, some advice for them, and directions on how they should conduct themselves. Since the principal chief of the nation was absent, we sent him the speech, the flag, a medal, and some clothes. After hearing what they had to say, we awarded a second-grade medal to one representative of the Ottos and one for the Missouries present, along with four third-grade medals to the subordinate chief—two for each tribe. The two groups, Ottos and Missouries, now living together, consist of about 250 men, with the Ottos making up two-thirds and the Missouries one-third.
The names of the Chiefs we acknowledged Made this day are as follows Viz
Indian name English signftn.
1st We ar ruge nor Ottoe Called Little Theif
2 Shon go ton go " " Big Horse
We the a Miss. " Hospatality
Shon Guss Con Ottoe " White horse
Wau pe uh M.
Ah ho ning ga M.
Baza cou ja Ottoe
Ah ho ne ga M.
Indian name English signftn.
1st We ar ruge nor Ottoe Called Little Thief
2 Shon go ton go " " Big Horse
We the a Miss. " Hospitality
Shon Guss Con Ottoe " White Horse
Wau pe uh M.
Ah ho ning ga M.
Baza cou ja Ottoe
Ah ho ne ga M.Those Chiefs all Delivered a Speech acknowledgeing Their approbation to the Speech and promissing to prosue the advice & Derictions given them that they wer happy to find that they had fathers which might be depended on &c.
Those chiefs all gave a speech acknowledging their approval of the address and promising to follow the advice and directions given to them. They were glad to discover that they had reliable leaders, among other things.
We gave them a Cannister of Powder and a Bottle of whiskey and delivered a few presents to the whole after giveing a Br. Cth. Some Paint guartering & a Meadele to those we made Cheifs after Capt Lewis's Shooting the air gun a feiw Shots (which astonished those nativs) we Set out and proceeded on five miles on a Direct line passed a point on the S. S. & round a large Sand bar on the L. S. & Camped on the upper point. The Misquitors excessively troublesom this evening Great appearance of wind and rain to the N. W. we prepare to rec've it—The man Liberty whome we Sent for the Ottoes has not Come up he left the Ottoes Town one Day before the Indians. This man has eithered tired his horse or, lost himself in the Plains Some Indians are to hunt for him, The Situation of our last Camp Councill Bluff or Handssom Prarie appears to be a verry proper place for a Tradeing establishment & fortification The Soil of the Bluff well adapted for Brick, Great deel of timbers abov in the two Points. many other advantages of a Small nature. and I am told Senteral to Several nations Viz. one Days march from the Ottoe Town, one Day & a half from the great Pania village, 2 days from the Mahar Towns, two 1/4 Days from the Loups Village, & Convenient to the Countrey thro which Bands of the Soux hunt. perhaps no other Situation is as well Calculated for a Tradeing establishment. The air is pure and helthy So far as we can judge.-
We gave them a canister of powder and a bottle of whiskey and handed out a few gifts to everyone after giving a brass kettle, some paint, and a medal to those we made chiefs. After Captain Lewis shot the air gun a few times (which amazed the natives), we set out and traveled five miles in a straight line, passed a point on the south side, and went around a large sandbar on the left side, then camped at the upper point. The mosquitoes were incredibly bothersome this evening, and there was a strong chance of wind and rain coming from the northwest, so we prepared for it. The man named Liberty, whom we sent to the Ottoes, hasn’t returned; he left Ottoes Town a day before the Indians did. This man might have either tired out his horse or gotten lost in the plains. Some Indians will hunt for him. The location of our last camp, Council Bluff or Handsome Prairie, seems like a very suitable spot for a trading post and fortification. The soil of the bluff is well-suited for brick-making, and there’s plenty of timber above in the two points. There are many other small advantages, and I've been told it's central to several nations: one day's march from the Ottoe Town, one and a half days from the great Pania village, two days from the Mahar Towns, two and a quarter days from the Loups Village, and convenient to the area where bands of the Sioux hunt. Perhaps no other location is as well-suited for a trading establishment. The air is pure and healthy, as far as we can tell.
[Clark, August 4, 1804]
August 4th at 7 oClock the heavens darkened and a violent wind from the N W. Suckceeded which lasted about an hour, with a little rain.
August 4th at 7 o'clock, the sky turned dark and a strong wind from the northwest picked up, lasting for about an hour, with some light rain.
Set out this morning early thro a narrow part of the, the whole Channel Confined in Some parts between the (1) Sand on one Side & the bank on the other (which is washing in) within 200 yards, this Chanl. Crouded with Snags. at 11/2 m. passed an old tradeing house L. S. where one of our Crew passed 2 years P. C tradeing with the Mahar; & Ponies-above 1 me. a (3) Creek Coms in opsd. a large bad (2) Sand bar this (3) Creek is the outlett of 3 ponds, which recved ther water from the Smaller Streams running from the hills on the L. S, Great qts. of Gees, passed in the next bend L. S. an out let to the Pond, Butifull bottom Prarie on both Sides of the river, Pumey Stone is found on the Sides of the river of various Sizes. Wind a head. Reed the man who went back to the Camp of last night for his Knife has not Come up this evening-we Camped at a pt. on the L. S. at a Beaver house. 1 Buck Killed to daye.
Set out early this morning through a narrow section of the Channel, which is confined in some areas between sand on one side and a bank on the other (which is eroding) within 200 yards. This channel is crowded with snags. At 1.5 miles, we passed an old trading post on the left side where one of our crew had traded with the Mahar and ponies two years ago. Above that, a creek comes in across from a large, troublesome sandbar. This creek is the outlet of three ponds that receive their water from smaller streams running down from the hills on the left side. We saw large quantities of geese as we passed the next bend on the left side, which led to the pond. There's beautiful bottom prairie on both sides of the river, and pumice stone of various sizes can be found along the riverbanks. The wind is against us. The guy who went back to camp last night for his knife hasn't returned this evening—we camped at a point on the left side by a beaver house. We killed one buck today.
[Clark, August 4, 1804]
August 4th Satturdaye Set out early—(at 7 oClock last night we had a Violent wind from the N W Som little rain Succeeded, the wind lasted with violence for one hour after the wind it was clear Sereen and Cool all night.) proceeded on passed thro betwen Snags which was quit across the Rivr the Channel Confined within 200 yards one Side a Sand pt. S S. the other a Bend, the Banks washing away & trees falling in constantly for 1 mile, abov this place is the remains of an old Tradeing establishment L. S. where Petr. Crusett one of our hands Stayed two years & traded with the Mahars a Short distance above is a Creek (3) the out let of Three Ponds comunicateing with each other, those Ponds or rether Lakes are fed by Springs & Small runs from the hills. (2) a large Sand Island opposit this Creek makeing out from the L. Point, from the Camp of last night to this Creek, the river has latterly Changed its bed incroaching on the L. Side, in this Sand bar I Saw great Nos. of wild gees—passed a Small Creek on the L. S about 3 miles above the last both of those Creek's are out lets from the Small Lake which reive their water from the Small Streems running from the high land—great many Pamey Stones on the Shore of various Sises the wind blew hard—Reed a man who went back to Camp for his knife has not joined us. we camped at a Beaver house on the L. S.one Buck Killed to day-
August 4th, Saturday Set out early—(last night at 7 o'clock we experienced a strong wind from the northwest, followed by a bit of rain. The wind lasted violently for an hour. After that, it was clear, cool, and calm all night.) We continued on and passed through an area filled with snags that was quite obstructive across the river. The channel narrowed to about 200 yards on one side, with a sand point on the south side and a bend on the other. The banks were constantly eroding, and trees were falling in for a mile. Above this spot are the remains of an old trading post on the left side, where Peter Crusett, one of our crew, stayed for two years and traded with the Mahars. A little further up is a creek (3), the outlet of three connected ponds; these ponds, or rather lakes, are fed by springs and small streams from the hills. (2) There is a large sand island opposite this creek, extending from the left point. From our camp last night to this creek, the river has recently changed its course, encroaching on the left side. On this sandbar, I saw a lot of wild geese. We passed a small creek on the left side about three miles above the last one; both of these creeks are outlets from the small lake which receives water from the small streams running from the highlands. There were many palm stones of various sizes on the shore. The wind blew hard. Reed, a man who went back to camp for his knife, hasn't rejoined us. We camped at a beaver lodge on the left side. One buck was killed today.
[Clark, August 5, 1804]
August 5th Set out early wind from N E. Great appearance of Wind & rain, (I have remarked that I have not heard much thunder in this Countrey) a verry large Snake was Killed to day called the Bull Snake, his Colour Some thing like a rattle Snake Something lighter—the bends of the river to day is washing away the banks, haveing nothing to oppose the turbelance of the river when Confined by large hard Sand Points, forceing this Current against the bends—the Soil of the entire bottom between the high land, being the mud or Ooze of the river of Some former period mixed with Sand & Clay easely melts and Slips, or washies into the river the mud mixes with the water & the Sand collects on the points Camped on the S. S.—I went on Shore S. S. this evening Saw Some turkeys and in persueing them Struk the river 12 miles below the place by water I went out, I think the Peninsuly is about 370 yards across Subjuct to overflow; & washes into numerous Channels, Great quantities of Graps ripe & of three Defferent Kind Some large & fine. I Killed a Turkey, and made Camp in the Night, Musqutors verry troubleson—Reed the man who went back for his Knife has not yet joined us
August 5th Set out early with wind coming from the northeast. There was a strong chance of wind and rain (I’ve noticed that I haven't heard much thunder in this area). A very large snake was killed today, called the Bull Snake; its color is somewhat similar to a rattlesnake but lighter. The bends of the river today are eroding the banks, as there’s nothing to stop the turbulence of the river where it’s confined by large, hard sand points, forcing the current against the bends. The soil throughout the bottom between the high land consists of mud or ooze from the river from some previous period mixed with sand and clay, which easily washes away into the river. The mud mixes with the water, and the sand collects on the points. Camped on the south side. I went ashore on the south side this evening and saw some turkeys; while pursuing them, I hit the river 12 miles downstream from where I set out. I think the peninsula is about 370 yards wide, prone to flooding, and divides into numerous channels. There are large quantities of ripe grapes of three different kinds, some large and fine. I killed a turkey and set up camp at night; mosquitoes are very bothersome. Reed, the man who went back for his knife, hasn't rejoined us yet.
[Clark, August 5, 1804]
5th of August Sunday 1804 Set out early great appearance of wind and rain (I have observed that Thundor & lightning is not as common in this Countrey as it is in the atlantic States) Snakes are not plenty, one was killed to day large and resembling the rattle Snake only Something lighter-. I walked on Shore this evening S. S. in Pursueing Some Turkeys I struck the river twelve miles below within 370 yards, the high water passes thro this Peninsulia; and agreeable to the Customary Changes of the river I Concld. that in two years the main Current of the river will pass through. In every bend the banks are falling in from the Current being thrown against those bends by the Sand points which inlarges and the Soil I believe from unquestionable appearns. of the entire bottom from one hill to the other being the mud or ooze of the River at Some former Period mixed with Sand and Clay easily melts and Slips into the River, and the mud mixes with the water & the Sand is washed down and lodges on the points—Great quantites of Grapes on the banks, I observe three different Kinds at this time ripe, one Of the no. is large & has the flaver of the Purple grape. camped on the S. S. the Musquitors verry troubleson. The man who went back after his Knife has not yet come up, we have Some reasons to believe he has Deserted
5th of August, Sunday, 1804 Set out early; there were signs of wind and rain. (I’ve noticed that thunder and lightning aren’t as common here as they are in the Atlantic states.) Snakes aren’t plentiful; one was killed today that was large and looked like a rattlesnake but was lighter. I walked along the shore this evening on the south side, chasing some turkeys. I hit the river twelve miles below within 370 yards; the high water flows through this peninsula. According to the usual changes of the river, I concluded that in two years the main current will shift through here. In every bend, the banks are eroding because the current hits those bends at the points where the sand is widening, and I believe, from unmistakable evidence, that the entire bottomland from one hill to the other is made up of mud or ooze from the river from some time ago, mixed with sand and clay, which easily erodes and slips into the river. The mud mixes with the water, and the sand gets washed down and settles on the points. There are plenty of grapes on the banks; I noticed three different kinds that are ripe right now, one of which is large and tastes like a purple grape. We camped on the south side, and the mosquitoes are very annoying. The guy who went back for his knife still hasn’t returned; we have some reasons to believe he may have deserted.
[Lewis, August 5, 1804]
August 5th 1804 Killed a serpent on the bank of the river adjoining a large prarie.
August 5th, 1804: Killed a snake on the bank of the river next to a large prairie.
F Inch Length from nose to tail 5 2 Circumpherence in largest part— 41/2 Number of scuta on belly—221 Do. on Tale—53
F Inch Length from nose to tail 5 2 Circumference at the widest part—41/2 Number of scutes on belly—221 Do. on Tail—53
No pison teeth therefore think him perfectly inocent—eyes, center black with a border of pale brown yellow Colour of skin on head yellowish green with black specks on the extremity of the scuta which are pointed or triangular colour of back, transverse stripes of black and dark brown of an inch in width, succeeded by a yellowish brown of half that width the end of the tale hard and pointed like a cock's spur the sides are speckled with yellowish brown and black.—two roes of black spots on a lite yellow ground pass throughout his whole length on the upper points of the scuta of the belly and tale 1/2 Inch apart this snake is vulgarly called the cow or bull snake from a bellowing nois which it is said sometimes to make resembling that anamal, tho as to this fact I am unable to attest it never having heard them make that or any other noise myself.
No poison teeth, so people think he’s completely innocent—his eyes are black in the center with a ring of pale brown. The color of his skin on his head is yellowish-green with black specks at the ends of the scales, which are pointed or triangular. The color of his back has horizontal stripes of black and dark brown about an inch wide, followed by a yellowish-brown stripe that's half that width. The end of the tail is hard and pointed like a rooster's spur, and the sides are speckled with yellowish-brown and black. There are two rows of black spots on a light yellow background that run along his entire length on the upper parts of the scales of his belly and tail, spaced half an inch apart. This snake is commonly called the cow or bull snake because of a bellowing noise it’s said to make, similar to that animal, although I can't confirm this since I've never heard them make that or any other noise myself.
I have frequently observed an acquatic bird in the cours of asscending this river but have never been able to procure one before today, this day I was so fortunate as to kill two of them, they are here more plenty than on the river below. they lay their eggs on the sand bars without shelter or nest, and produce their young from the 15th to the last of June, the young ones of which we caught several are covered with down of a yellowish white colour and on the back some small specks of a dark brown. they bear a great resemblance to the young quale of ten days oald, and apear like them to be able to runabout and peck their food as soon as they are hatched—this bird, lives on small fish, worms and bugs which it takes on the virge of the water it is seldom seen to light on trees an quite as seldom do they lite in the water and swim tho the foot would indicate that they did it's being webbed I believe them to be a native of this country and probly a constant resident.
I have often seen an aquatic bird while traveling up this river but have never managed to catch one until today. Today, I was lucky enough to kill two of them; they are more common here than lower down the river. They lay their eggs on the sandbars without any shelter or nest and raise their young from June 15th until the end of the month. We caught several of the young, which are covered in yellowish-white down with some small dark brown specks on their backs. They look very similar to young quail that are ten days old and seem capable of running around and pecking for food as soon as they hatch. This bird feeds on small fish, worms, and bugs that it finds along the water's edge. It is rarely seen landing on trees and even less often in the water, although its webbed feet suggest it does swim. I believe this bird is native to this country and probably a permanent resident.
the weight of the male bird is one ounce and a half, its length from beak to toe 71/2 inches from tip to tip of wing across the back one foot seven inches and a half the beak is one 1/8 inch lonong, large where it joins the head Elated on the sides and tapering to a sharp point, a little declining and curvated, a fine yellow, with a shade of black on the extremity of upper beak; the eye is prominent, black and on a angular scale of 1/2 Inc; occupyse 3 1/3 in width. the upper part of the head is black from the beak as low as the middle of the eye and a little below the joining of the neck except however some white which joins the upper part of the beak which forks and passing over the sides of the forehead terminate above each eye—the under part of the bird, that is the throat and cheeks as high as the eye, the neck brest belly and under part of the wings and tail are of a fine white, the upper part of the neck, back, and wings are of a fine, quaker colour, or bright dove colour with reather more of a bluish tint-except however the three first or larger feathers in the wing which on upper side are of a deep black. the wing has four joints
The male bird weighs one and a half ounces and is 7.5 inches long from beak to toe. Its wingspan measures one foot and seven and a half inches. The beak is 1/8 inch long, wide where it connects to the head, flattened on the sides, and tapers to a sharp point. The beak is slightly downward-curving and has a shiny yellow color with a hint of black at the tip of the upper beak. The eye is prominent, black, and on an angular scale of 1/2 inch, occupying 3 and 1/3 in width. The upper part of the head is black from the beak down to the middle of the eye and a little further down towards the neck, except for some white that connects with the upper part of the beak, which forks and extends over the sides of the forehead, ending above each eye. The underside of the bird, including the throat, cheeks up to the eye level, neck, breast, belly, and the undersides of the wings and tail, is a beautiful white. The upper part of the neck, back, and wings is a lovely grayish or bright dove color with a slightly bluish tint, except for the three largest feathers in the wing, which are deep black on the upper side. The wing has four joints.
No. Joint Length of joint No. of feathers Length of do. 1 11/2 a Clump of feathers not strong but loosly connect with the flesh of the wing 11/2 2 2 16 2 3 11/2 7 from 21/2 to 41/2 4 3/4 3 51/2
No. Joint Length of joint No. of feathers Length of do. 1 11/2 a Clump of feathers not strong but loosely connected with the flesh of the wing 11/2 2 2 16 2 3 11/2 7 from 21/2 to 41/2 4 3/4 3 51/2
the tail has eleven feathers the outer of which are an inch longer than those in the center gradually tapering inwards which gives the tale a forked appearance like that of the swally the largest or outer feather is 23/4 that of the shortest 13/4—the leg and thye are three inches long the leg occupying one half this length the thye is covered with feathers except about 1/4 of an inch above the knee the leg is of a bright yellow and nails long sharp and black the foot is webbed and has three toes forward; the heel or back toe is fixed to the leg above the palm of the foot, and is unconnected by a web to the other toes, it has no nail. the wings when foalded lap like those of the swallow and extend at least an inch and a half beyond the tale. this bird is very noysey when flying which is dose exttreemly swift the motion of the wing is much like that of kildee it has two notes one like the squaking of a small pig only on reather a high kee, and the other kit'-tee'- kit'-tee'—as near as letters can express the sound—the beak of the female is black and the black and quaker colour of the male in her is yellowish brown mixed with dove colour
The tail has eleven feathers, the outer ones being an inch longer than those in the center, gradually tapering inwards, which gives the tail a forked appearance similar to that of a swallow. The largest or outer feather is 2¾ inches, while the shortest is 1¾ inches. The leg and thigh are three inches long, with the leg making up half this length. The thigh is covered with feathers except for about ¼ of an inch above the knee. The leg is a bright yellow, and the nails are long, sharp, and black. The foot is webbed and has three toes facing forward; the heel or back toe is attached to the leg above the palm of the foot and is not connected by a web to the other toes, and it has no nail. The wings, when folded, overlap like those of a swallow and extend at least an inch and a half beyond the tail. This bird is quite noisy while flying, which it does extremely swiftly. The motion of the wings is much like that of a kildee. It has two distinct notes: one sounds like the squeaking of a small pig, but at a rather high pitch, and the other is “kit’-tee’-kit’-tee’”—as close as letters can express the sound. The beak of the female is black, while the male has a combination of black and a quaker color, with yellowish-brown mixed with dove color.
[Clark, August 6, 1804]
August 6th Monday 1804 at 12 oClock last night a Violent Storm of wind & rain from the N. W. one perogue (Bapteest Le joness Patroon) lost her Colours Set out early & proceeded on passed a large Island on the S. S. back of this Island Rivie de Soldiert Come in on the S. S.—the Solder's River is about the Sise of Nodaway 20 yd. wide at the mouth, passed two remarkable places, where the River had once Passed—We have every reason to belive that one man has Deserted Moses B. Reed he has been absent three Days and one french man we Sent to the Indian Camps has not joined us, we have reasons to beleve he lost himself in attempting to join us at the Council Bluff—we are deturmind to Send back 4 men to take reede Dead or alive, also hunt La Liberty and to meet us at the Mahar nation as Soon as the order is executed.
August 6th, Monday, 1804, at 12 o'clock last night, a violent storm of wind and rain came from the northwest. One canoe (Bapteest Le Joness Patroon) lost its colors. We set out early and continued on, passing a large island on the south side, behind this island the Soldier's River comes in on the south side. The Soldier's River is about the size of Nodaway, 20 yards wide at the mouth. We passed two notable places where the river once flowed. We have every reason to believe that one man has deserted, Moses B. Reed; he has been absent for three days. One Frenchman we sent to the Indian camps has not rejoined us, and we think he got lost trying to meet us at Council Bluff. We are determined to send back four men to retrieve Reed, dead or alive, as well as look for La Liberty, and to meet us at the Mahar nation as soon as the task is done.
[Clark, August 6, 1804]
6th August, Monday 1804 At 12 oClock last nigh a violent Storm of wind from the N W. Some rain one pr. of Colours lost in the Storm from the bige Perogue. Set out early and proceeded on passed a large Island on the S. S. back of this Isd. Soldiers River mouths, I am told by one of the men that this river is about the Size of Nadawa river 40 yards wide at the mouth. Reed has not yet come up. neither has La Liberty the frenchman whome we Sent to the Indian Camps a fiew miles below the Council Bluffs.
6th August, Monday 1804 At 12 o'clock last night, a violent storm came in from the northwest. There was some rain, and we lost one pair of colors in the storm from the big perogue. We set out early and kept going, passing a large island on the south side. Behind this island are the mouths of Soldiers River. One of the men told me that this river is about the size of the Nadawa River, 40 yards wide at the mouth. Reed hasn’t shown up yet, and neither has La Liberty, the Frenchman whom we sent to the Indian camps a few miles below the Council Bluffs.
[Clark, August 7, 1804]
August 7th Tuesday last night about 8 oClock a Storm of wind from the N. W. which lasted 3/4 of an hour mosquitors more troublesom last night than I ever Saw them, Set out late this morning wind N.
August 7th, Tuesday: last night around 8 o'clock, a storm came in from the northwest that lasted about 45 minutes. The mosquitoes were more annoying last night than I've ever seen them. I set out late this morning with the wind coming from the north.
[Clark, August 7, 1804]
7th August Tuesday 1804 last night at 8 oClock a Storm from the N W. lasted 3/4 of an hour let out late this morning wind from the North—at 1 oClock dispatched George Drewyer, R. Fields, Wm. Bratten & Wm. Labieche back after the Deserter reid with order if he did not give up Peaceibly to put him to Death &c. to go to the Ottoes Village & enquire for La Liberty and bring him to the Mahars Village, also with a Speech on the occasion to the Ottoes & Missouries—and directing a few of their Chiefs to come to the Mahars, & we would make a peace between them & the Mahar and Souex, a String of wompom & a Carrot of Tobacco. proceeded on and Camped on the S. S.
7th August, Tuesday, 1804: Last night at 8:00 PM, a storm from the northwest lasted for three-quarters of an hour. It calmed down late this morning, with the wind coming from the north. At 1:00 PM, I sent George Drewyer, R. Fields, Wm. Bratten, and Wm. Labieche back after the deserter Reid with orders that if he didn’t surrender peacefully, he was to be executed, etc. They were to go to the Ottoes Village to look for La Liberty and bring him to the Mahars Village, along with a speech for the Ottoes and Missouries. I directed a few of their chiefs to come to the Mahars so we could negotiate peace between them, the Mahars, and the Souex, with a string of wampum and a carrot of tobacco. We proceeded on and camped on the south side.
I walked on Shore with one man Collies,-the bottoms Covered with very Collin Killed an elk, I fired 4 times at one & have reasons to think I Kiled him but could not find him, The Misqutors were So troublesom and Misqutors thick in the Plains that I could not Keep them out of my eyes, with a bush. in my absens Capt Lewis Killed a Pelican on Pelicans Island, at which place maney Hundreds had Collected, they left 3 fish which was. fresh and very good, we camped on the S. S. in a Streght part of the river-
I walked along the shore with a guy named Collies. The bottoms were covered with a lot of Collin. He shot an elk, and I fired four times at one, believing I hit it, but I couldn’t find it. The mosquitoes were so bothersome and thick across the plains that I couldn’t keep them out of my face, even with a bush. While I was away, Captain Lewis shot a pelican on Pelican Island, where many hundreds had gathered. They left behind three fish that were fresh and really good. We set up camp on the south side in a strong part of the river.
[Clark, August 8, 1804]
August the 8th 1804 Set out this morning at the usial time at about 2 miles (1) passed a part of the river So choked up with Snags that we found a little dificult to get thro with Safty, the wind as usial from the N W. one of the Soldiers Killed a Pilican on the Sand Isd. passed the mouth of Little (2) River de Cueoux on the S. S. this river is about 80 yards wide & navagable for Pirogus Some distance & runs parrelel to the Missourie it corns in from the River from the N E, it contains great Quantitys offish Common to the Countrey. two Miles above is (3) an Island the Channel formerly run on the right with Sand.—the Current runs to the left. many hundreds of Pelicans on this Island—we call it Pelican Isld. Cap Lewis Killed one This river Soux Called by the Sueoux Ed-Neah Wau-de-pon i'e Stone R heads in three Leagues of the river Demoin, and passes thro a Lake about 20 Legues in Sircfs. which is also within 5 Leagus of the Demoin, this lake at one place is confined by two rocks within a narrow Space—this lake of Different widths, with many Small Islands, from the Lake to the Mahars about distant 4 Days march to the Dog Plains 90 Leagues, one Principal branch of the Demoin is calld. Cat river, the Lake which this river Litt Souex heads in is Called Despree
August 8, 1804 Set out this morning at the usual time. After about 2 miles (1), we passed a section of the river that was so clogged with snags that it was a little difficult to get through safely. The wind, as usual, was coming from the northwest. One of the soldiers shot a pelican on the sand island. We passed the mouth of Little (2) River de Cueoux on the south side. This river is about 80 yards wide and navigable for canoes for some distance. It runs parallel to the Missouri and flows in from the northeast. It has a large quantity of fish typical for the region. Two miles upstream is (3) an island; the channel used to run to the right with sand, but the current now flows to the left. There were hundreds of pelicans on this island, which we call Pelican Island. Captain Lewis shot one. The Sioux call this river Ed-Neah Wau-de-pon, meaning Stone River. It begins about three leagues from the Des Moines River and flows through a lake about 20 leagues in circumference, which is located within 5 leagues of the Des Moines. At one point, the lake is squeezed between two rocks in a narrow space. This lake has varying widths and many small islands. From the lake to the Mahars is about a four-day march to the Dog Plains, about 90 leagues away. One main branch of the Des Moines is called Cat River, and the lake where this Little Sioux River starts is known as Despree.
[Clark, August 8, 1804]
8th August Wednesday 1804 Set out this morning at the usial time at two miles passed (1) a bend to L. S. Choaked up with Snags our boat run on two in turning to pass through, we got through with Safty the wind from N W. (2) passed the mouth of a River on the S. Side Called by the Soux Indians Ed-neah Wau de pon (or Stone river) the French call this river Petite Rivre de Cuouex it is about 80 yards wide and as (Mr. Durion Says whos been on the heads of it and the Country abt) is navagable for Perogues Som Distance runs Parrelel to the Missourie Some Distance, then falls down from N E thro a roleing Countrey open, the head of this river is 9 miles from the R Demon at which place the Demoin is 80 yd wide, this Little Cuouex passes thro a lake called Despree which is within 5 Leagues of the Deemoin the Said Lake is about 20 Leagues in Circumfrance and is divided into 2 by two rocks approaching Verry near each other, this Lake is of various width, Containing many Islands- from this Lake to the Maha 4 days march, as is Said to be near the Dog Plains one princpal branch of the Demoin is Called Cat River The Demoin is Sholey
8th August, Wednesday, 1804 We left this morning at the usual time. After traveling two miles, we navigated a bend to the left, which was clogged with snags. Our boat bumped into two while trying to pass through, but we made it through safely with the wind coming from the northwest. We passed the mouth of a river on the south side called Ed-neah Wau de pon by the Sioux Indians (which means Stone River). The French refer to this river as Petite Rivre de Cuouex. It's about 80 yards wide and, according to Mr. Durion, who has explored its headwaters and surrounding areas, it is navigable for perogues for quite some distance. The river runs parallel to the Missouri for a while, then flows down from the northeast through a rolling, open countryside. The head of this river is 9 miles from the Des Moines, where the Des Moines River is 80 yards wide. This little Cuouex flows through a lake called Despree, which is within 5 leagues of the Des Moines. The lake has a circumference of about 20 leagues and is split into two by two rocks that come very close together. The lake varies in width and contains many islands. It's about a four-day march from this lake to the Maha, as it's said to be near the Dog Plains. One of the main branches of the Des Moines is called Cat River. The Des Moines is shallow.
Capt. Lewis took Medn. Altitude of the Sun made it 56° 9' 00" Lat 41° 42' 34" and I took one man and went on Shore the man Killed an Elk I fired 4 times at one & did not Kill him, my ball being Small I think was the reason, the misqutors So bad in the Praries that with the assistance of a bush I could not Keep them out of my eyes, the boat turned Several tims to day on Sand bars—in my absenc the boat passed a Island 2 miles above the litte Scouex R on the upper point of the Isld Some hundreds of Pelicans were Collected, they left 3 fish on the Sand which was verry fine, Capt Lewis Killed one & took his dimentions, I joined the boat and we Camped on the S S.
Capt. Lewis measured the altitude of the sun at 56° 9' 00", latitude 41° 42' 34". I took one man and went ashore; he killed an elk. I fired four times at one but couldn’t hit it, probably because my bullet was too small. The mosquitoes were really bad in the prairies, and even with a bush to shield me, I couldn't keep them out of my eyes. The boat ran aground on sandbars several times today. While I was gone, the boat passed an island two miles above the Little Sioux River. At the upper point of the island, there were hundreds of pelicans gathered. They left three fish on the sand, which were really nice. Captain Lewis killed one and took its measurements. I rejoined the boat, and we set up camp on the south side.
worthe of remark that Snakes are not plenty in this part of the Missourie
It's worth noting that snakes aren't common in this part of Missouri.
[Lewis, August 8, 1804]
August 8th 1804 we had seen but a few aquatic fouls of any kind on the river since we commenced our journey up the Missouri, a few geese accompanied by their young, the wood duck which is common to every part of this country & crains of several kinds which will be discribed in their respective places—this day after we had passed the river Souix as called by Mr. MacKay (or as is more properly called the stone river,) I saw a great number of feathers floating down the river those feathers had a very extraordinary appearance as they appeared in such quantities as to cover pretty generally sixty or seventy yards of the breadth of the river. for three miles after I saw those feathers continuing to run in that manner, we did not percieve from whence they came, at length we were surprised by the appearance of a flock of Pillican at rest on a large sand bar attatched to a small Island the number of which would if estimated appear almost in credible; they apeared to cover several acres of ground, and were no doubt engaged in procuring their ordinary food; which is fish, on our approach they flew and left behind them several small fish of about eight inches in length, none of which I had seen before—the Pellican rested again on a sand bar above the Island which we called after them from the number we saw on it. we now approached them within about three hundred yards before they flew; I then fired at random among the flock with my rifle and brought one down; the discription of this bird is as follows.
On August 8th, 1804, we had seen only a few types of waterfowl on the river since we started our journey up the Missouri—some geese with their young, the wood duck, which is common everywhere in this area, and several kinds of cranes that will be described in their respective sections. That day, after passing the river Sioux, as Mr. MacKay called it (or more accurately, the stone river), I noticed a large number of feathers floating down the river. These feathers looked unusual as they were so abundant that they covered about sixty or seventy yards wide of the river. For three miles, those feathers kept floating by, and we couldn’t tell where they were coming from. Eventually, we were surprised to see a flock of pelicans resting on a large sandbar attached to a small island. The number was staggering; it looked like they covered several acres of land and were likely busy hunting for their usual food, which is fish. When we got closer, they flew away, leaving behind several small fish about eight inches long, none of which I had seen before. The pelicans landed again on a sandbar above the island, which we named after them because of the number we observed. We got within about three hundred yards before they flew off; then I randomly shot into the flock with my rifle and brought one down. Here’s a description of that bird.
Habits
They are a bird of clime remain on the coast of Floriday and the borders of the Gulph of mexico & even the lower portion of the Mississippi during the winter and in the Spring (see for date my thermometrical observations at the river Dubois.-) visit this country and that farther north for the purpose of raising their young—this duty seems now to have been accomplished from the appearance of a young Pilacon which was killed by one of our men this morning, and they are now in large flocks on their return to their winter quarters. they lay usually two eggs only and chuise for a nest a couple of logs of drift wood near the water's edge and with out any other preperation but the thraught formed by the proximity of those two logs which form a trough they set and hatch their young which after nurture with fish their common food
They are a bird that stays along the coast of Florida and the shores of the Gulf of Mexico, and even the lower part of the Mississippi during winter. In the spring (for the date, see my temperature observations at the river Dubois), they visit this area and even farther north to raise their young. This task seems to have been completed, as one of our men killed a young Pilacon this morning, and now they are in large flocks returning to their winter habitats. They typically lay only two eggs and choose a nest made from a couple of logs of driftwood near the water's edge. Without any other preparation beyond the trough formed by the closeness of those two logs, they set and hatch their young, which they feed with fish, their common food.
Measure
Measure
F I
From beak to toe 5 8
Tip to tip of wing 9 4
Beak Length 1 3
Do. Width from 2 to 1 1/2
Neck Length 1 11
1st joint of wing 1 1
2ed Do. 1 4 1/2
3rd Do. —- 7
4th do. —- 2 3/4
Length of leg including foot 10
Do. of thy 11
F I
From beak to toe 5 8
Tip to tip of wing 9 4
Beak Length 1 3
Width from 2 to 1 1/2
Neck Length 1 11
1st joint of wing 1 1
2nd joint 1 4 1/2
3rd joint —- 7
4th joint —- 2 3/4
Length of leg including foot 10
Diameter of thigh 11Discription of Colour &c
Description of Color c
The beak is a whiteish yellow the under part connected to a bladder like pouch, this pounch is connected to both sides of the lower beak and extends down on the under side of the neck and terminates in the stomach—this pouch is uncovered with feathers, and is formed two skins the one on the inner and the other on the center side a small quantity of flesh and strings of which the anamal has at pleasure the power of moving or drawing in such manner as to contract it at pleasure. in the present subject I measured this pouch and found it's contents 5 gallons of water
The beak is a whitish-yellow color, with the lower part connected to a pouch that looks like a bladder. This pouch is attached to both sides of the lower beak and extends down the underside of the neck, ending in the stomach. The pouch isn't covered in feathers and is made up of two layers of skin, with some flesh and tendons in between. The animal has the ability to move or retract this pouch as needed. In this case, I measured the pouch and found that it can hold 5 gallons of water.
The feet are webbed large and of a yellow colour, it has four toes the hinder toe is longer than in most aquatic fouls, the nails are black, not sharp and 1/2 an inch in length
The feet are large and webbed, yellow in color, with four toes. The hind toe is longer than in most aquatic birds, the nails are black, not sharp, and half an inch long.
The plumage generally is white, the feathers are thin compared with the swan goose or most aquatick fouls and has but little or no down on the body. the upper part of the head is covered with black feathers short, as far as the back part of the head—the yellow skin unfeathered extends back from the upper beak and opening of the mouth and comes to a point just behind the eye
The feathers are mostly white, and they are thinner compared to the swan goose or most waterfowl, with very little or no down on the body. The top of the head is covered with short black feathers, extending to the back of the head. The yellow, unfeathered skin extends back from the upper beak and mouth opening, coming to a point just behind the eye.
The large feathers of the wings are of a deep black colour—the 1st & 2nd joint of from the body above the same is covered with a second layer of white feathers which extend quite half the length of those large feathers of the wing—the thye is covered with feathers within a quarter of an inch of the knee.
The large feathers on the wings are a deep black color—the 1st and 2nd joint from the body above is covered with a second layer of white feathers that extend about half the length of those large wing feathers—the thigh is covered with feathers up to a quarter of an inch from the knee.
Inch
1st joint of wing has feathers No. 21 Length 9 Black
2ed Do. No. 17 Length 13 Inch
3rd Do. No. 5 Length 18 Inch
4th Do. No. 3 Length 19 Inch
Inch 1st joint of wing has feathers No. 21 Length 9 Black 2nd Do. No. 17 Length 13 Inch 3rd Do. No. 5 Length 18 Inch 4th Do. No. 3 Length 19 Inch
it has a curious frothy substance which seems to devide its feathers from the flesh of the body and seems to be composes of globles of air and perfectly imbraces the part of the feather which extends through the skin.the wind pipe terminates in the center of the lower part of the upper and unfeathered part of the pouch and is secured by an elastic valve commanded at pleasure.
it has a strange frothy substance that appears to separate its feathers from the flesh of the body and seems to be made up of bubbles of air, perfectly surrounding the part of the feather that extends through the skin. the windpipe ends in the center of the lower part of the upper, unfeathered section of the pouch and is held in place by an elastic valve that can be controlled at will.
The green insect known in the U States by the name of the sawyer or chittediddle, was first heard to cry on the 27th of July, we were then in latitude 41° some minutes.
The green insect known in the U.S. as the sawyer or chittediddle was first heard calling on July 27th, while we were at latitude 41° some minutes.
The prarie hen or grouse, was seen in the praries between the Missouri and the river platte
The prairie hen or grouse was spotted in the prairies between the Missouri and the Platte River.
[Clark, August 9, 1804]
9th Augt Thursday 1804 The fog of this morning detained us untill 1/2 passed 7 oClock at which time we left our moreing and proceeded on under a gentle Breeze from the S. E, I went on Shore found the Land the Same as yesterday Killed a Turkey and Camped on the L. S. great deel of Beaver Sign to day one Beaver Cought Musquetors worse this evening than ever I have Seen them.
9th Aug Thursday 1804 The fog this morning held us up until 7:30 AM, at which time we left our mooring and moved on with a light breeze from the southeast. I went ashore and found the land the same as yesterday, killed a turkey, and set up camp on the left side. There was a lot of beaver activity today, and one beaver was caught. The mosquitoes were worse this evening than I’ve ever seen them.
[Clark, August 9, 1804]
9th August Thursday 1804 The fog being thick detained us untile half pasd. 7 oClock at which time we Set out and proceeded on under Gentle Breeze from the S E I walked on Shore, Saw an Elk, crossed a Istmust of 3/4 of a mile to the river, & returned to the boat Camped on the L. S. above a Beaver Den. Musqutors verry troubleson.
9th August Thursday 1804 The fog was so thick that we were held back until half past 7 o'clock. At that time, we set out and continued on with a gentle breeze from the southeast. I walked on shore, saw an elk, crossed an isthmus of 3/4 of a mile to the river, and then returned to the boat. We camped on the left side above a beaver den. Mosquitoes were very troublesome.
[Clark, August 11, 1804]
August 11th Satturday 1804 about day this morning a hard wind from the N. W. followed by rain, we landed at the foot of the hill on which Black Bird The late King of the mahar who Died 4 years ago & 400 of his nation with the Small pox was buried (1) and went up and fixed a white flag bound with Blue white & read on the Grave which was about 12 foot Base & circueller, on the top of a Penical about 300 foot above the water of the river, from the top of this hill may be Seen the bends or meanderings of the river for 60 or 70 miles round & all the County around the base of this high land is a Soft Sand Stone Bluff of about 40 or 150 foot, the Crooked, passed a Creek Called Wau-Con di peche C or Bad God Creek of bad Spirits on the L. S above the Bluff on this Creek the Mahars had the Small pox 4 years ago, Lattitude 42° 1'3" 8/10 taken on the Point above the Creek. the river is verry Crooked, we are now within 3/4 of a mile of the river at a place we Shall not get around to untill tomorrow noon—We er 3 Legues from the Mahars by land and the great deel of Beaver sign induce a belief that those people do not hunt much.
August 11th, Saturday, 1804. This morning, we experienced a strong wind from the northwest, followed by rain. We landed at the base of the hill where Black Bird, the late king of the Mahars who died four years ago, and 400 of his people who perished from smallpox are buried. We went up and placed a white flag trimmed with blue on the grave, which was about 12 feet wide and circular, at the top of a peak roughly 300 feet above the river's water level. From the top of this hill, you can see the bends and meanderings of the river for 60 or 70 miles in every direction. The land around the base of this elevated area is a soft sandstone bluff, about 40 to 150 feet tall. We passed a creek called Wau-Con di peche C, or Bad God Creek of Bad Spirits, on the left side above the bluff. This is where the Mahars encountered smallpox four years ago. Latitude 42° 1' 3" 8/10 was taken at the point above the creek. The river is very winding. We are now within three-quarters of a mile of the river at a spot we won’t reach until tomorrow noon. We are three leagues from the Mahars by land, and the large amount of beaver sign suggests that these people do not hunt much.
I have observed a number of places where the river has Changd its Bead at different times
I have noticed several locations where the river has changed its course at different times.
[Clark, August 11, 1804]
11th August Satturday 1804. about day light this Morning a hard wind from the N W. with Some rain proceeded on arround the right of the Isld.
11th August Saturday 1804. Around daylight this morning, a strong wind from the NW, with some rain, continued as we went around the right side of the island.
a hard wind accompanied with rain from the S. E. after the rain was over Capt. Lewis myself & 10 men assended the Hill on the L. S. under which there was Some fine Springs to the top of a high point where the Mahars King Black Bird was burried 4 years ago. a mound of earth about 12 Diamuter at the base & 6 feet high is raised over him turfed, and a pole 8 feet high in the Center on this pole we fixed a white flage bound with red Blue & white; this hill about 300 feet above the water forming a Bluff between that & the Water of Various hight from 40 to 150 feet in hight yellow Soft Sand Stone from the tops of this Nole the river may be Seen Meandering for 60 or 70 Miles, we Decended & Set out N. 24 to W. 1/2 me. passing over a Sand bar on the S. pt. along the Willows. to the river opposit a Small Beyeau on the L. S. which is the Conveyance of the high water from a bend which appears near in a northerly direction, haveing passed a Creek in a Deep bend to the L. S. Called by the Mahars Wau can di Peeche (Great Spirrit is bad) on this Creek & Hills near it about 400 of the Mahar Died with the Small Pox- Took Medn. Altitude & made the Latd. 42° 1' 3" 8/10 N. also the Moons Distanc from the Sun I have observed a number of places where the River has onced run and now filled or filling up & growing with willows & cottonwood
A strong wind with rain came from the southeast. After the rain stopped, Captain Lewis, myself, and 10 men climbed the hill on the left side, where there were some nice springs, to the top of a high point where King Black Bird of the Mahars was buried four years ago. A mound of earth about 12 feet in diameter at the base and 6 feet high has been raised over him, covered with turf, and an 8-foot pole stands in the center. On this pole, we attached a white flag trimmed with red, blue, and white. This hill rises about 300 feet above the water, forming a bluff between that and the river, which varies in height from 40 to 150 feet, made of soft yellow sandstone. From the top of this hill, we can see the river meandering for 60 or 70 miles. We descended and set out northwest 24 degrees to west for half a mile, passing over a sandbar at the south point along the willows, to the river opposite a small bayou on the left side, which carries high water from a bend that appears nearby in a northerly direction. We passed a creek in a deep bend on the left side called by the Mahars Wau can di Peeche (Great Spirit is bad). About 400 Mahars died of smallpox near this creek and the hills around it. I took measurements for altitude and found the latitude to be 42° 1' 3" 8/10 N. I also noted the moon's distance from the sun. I observed several places where the river once flowed, which are now filled in or filling up and growing with willows and cottonwoods.
[Clark, August 12, 1804]
12th August Sunday 1804 a South wind We Set out early the river wider than usial, and Shallow, at 12 we halted in a bend to the left to take the Meridian altitude, & Dine, & Sent one man across where we took Dinner yesterday to Step off the Distance across Isthmus, he made it 974 yards, and the bend around is 183/4 miles above this bend about 4 miles, a yellow & Brown Bluff Comnuces and Continus 3 or 4 miles on the L. S. this Bluff has Some Sand Stone, Some rich Black mole mixed with yellow Clay, a fiew Red Ceeder on the tope, which is, from 20 to 150 foot high the hill Still riseing back, I think may be estemated at 200 foot on the top is timber, the wind for a few hours this evening was hard and from the S. E. In the evening about 5 oClock Cap L. & My Self wen on Shore to Shoot a Prarie wolf which was barking at us as we passed This Prarie Wolf barked like a large fest and is not much larger, the Beaver is verry plenty, not with Standing we are almost in Sight of the Mahar Town—Cought a verry Large Catfish this morniong, prepared the Indian present which we intend given to the Mahars. P. Wiser apt. Cook to Serjt. Floyds Squad from to day
12th August, Sunday, 1804: A south wind. We set out early; the river was wider than usual and shallow. At noon, we stopped in a bend to the left to take the meridian altitude, have lunch, and sent one man across where we had dinner yesterday to measure the distance across the isthmus. He found it was 974 yards, and the bend around is 18.75 miles. About 4 miles above this bend, a yellow and brown bluff starts and continues for 3 or 4 miles on the left side. This bluff has some sandstone and some rich black soil mixed with yellow clay, a few red cedars on top, which range from 20 to 150 feet high. The hill continues to rise back; I estimate it to be about 200 feet high, with timber on top. The wind was strong for a few hours this evening and came from the southeast. In the evening, around 5 o’clock, Captain L. and I went ashore to shoot a prairie wolf that was barking at us as we passed. This prairie wolf barked like a large dog and isn't much larger. Beavers are very plentiful, even though we are almost in sight of the Mahar town. I caught a very large catfish this morning and prepared the Indian gift we plan to give to the Mahars. P. Wiser, appointed cook to Sergeant Floyd's squad, effective today.
[Clark, August 12, 1804]
12th August Sunday 1804 Set out early under a gentle Breeze from the South the river wider than usial and Shallow (1) at 12 oClock we halted to take a meridian altd. of the Sun & Sent a man back or I may Say across to the Bind of the river where Capt. Lewis took the Mdn. altitude yesterday, to Step off the distance, he made it 974 yards across, the Distance arround the bend is 183/4 miles—about 4 miles above the bend on the L. S. is the Commencement of a Bluff which is about 4 miles extending on the river, of yellow and brown Clay in Some parts in it near the river a Soft Sand Stone is inbeded on the top (which is from 20 to 150 feet above the water, & rises back) is Covered with timber, a fiew red Ceider is on this Bluff, the wind Comes round to the S. E. a Prarie Wolf Come near the bank and Barked at us this evening, we made an attempt but could not git him, this Animale Barkes like a large feste Dog. Beever is verry Plenty on this part of the river. I prepare Some presents for to give the Indians of the Mahars nation. Wiser apt. Cook & Supentdt. of the Provisions of Sergt. Floyds Squad. we Camped on a Sand Island in a bend to the S. S. Musquitors verry troublesom untile the wind rose. at one or 2 oClock
12th August Sunday 1804 We set out early with a light breeze from the south. The river was wider than usual and shallow. At 12 o'clock, we paused to take a meridian altitude of the sun and sent a man back, or I might say across, to the bend of the river where Captain Lewis took the median altitude yesterday, to measure the distance. He found it to be 974 yards across; the distance around the bend is 18¾ miles. About 4 miles above the bend on the left side, there's the start of a bluff that extends about 4 miles along the river, made of yellow and brown clay. In some spots near the river, there’s soft sandstone embedded on top, which is between 20 and 150 feet above the water and rises back. It’s covered with timber; a few red cedars are on this bluff. The wind shifts to the southeast. A prairie wolf came near the bank and barked at us this evening. We tried to catch it but couldn't; this animal barks like a large, yappy dog. Beavers are very plentiful in this part of the river. I prepared some gifts to give to the Indians of the Mahars nation. Wiser Apt, cook and superintendent of the provisions of Sergeant Floyd's squad. We camped on a sand island in a bend on the south side. Mosquitoes were very bothersome until the wind picked up. At one or two o'clock.
[Clark, August 13, 1804]
13th of August Munday 1804. Set out this morning at Day light the usial time and proceeded on under a gentle Breeze from the S. E. passed the Island.
13th of August Monday 1804. Set out this morning at dawn, the usual time, and proceeded on under a gentle breeze from the SE, passing the island.
From this Fish Camp the River is N 55° West as far as Can be Seen, the Sand bar only changeing the Derection of the Current the Hills leave the river on the L. Side
From this Fish Camp, the River runs N 55° West as far as the eye can see, with the sandbar only changing the direction of the current while the hills recede from the river on the left side.
[Clark, August 13, 1804]
August 13th Monday 1804 Set out this morning at Light the usial time and proceeded on under a gentle Breeze from the S E
August 13th, Monday, 1804. We set out this morning at the usual time and continued on with a light breeze coming from the southeast.
[Clark, August 14, 1804]
14th of August at 12 oClock the Party Sent yesterday to the Towns returned, and informed that they Could not find any Indians, they had not returned from hunting the Buffalow in the Praries, wind Shifted to the N W. Our party Sent after the Deserter and to the Otteau towns, have not Came up as yet
14th of August at 12 o'clock, the party sent yesterday to the towns returned and reported that they couldn't find any Indians; they hadn't come back from hunting buffalo in the prairies. The wind shifted to the northwest. Our party sent after the deserter and to the Otteau towns hasn't arrived yet.
The Situation of this Village, now in ruins Siround by enunbl. hosts of grave the ravages of the Small Pox (4 years ago) they follow the Buf. and tend no Corn
The condition of this village, now in ruins, surrounded by countless graves from the devastation of smallpox (four years ago), follows the buffalo and grows no corn.
[Clark, August 14, 1804]
14th August Tuesday 1804 a fine morning wind from the S E The men Sent to the Mahar Town last evening has not returned we Conclude to Send a Spye to Know the cause of Their delay at about 12 oClock the Party returned and in-formed. us that they Could not find the Indians nor any fresh Sign, those people have not returned from their Buffalow hunt, Those people haveing no houses no Corn or any thing more than the graves of their ancesters to attach them to the old Village, Continue in pursuite of the Buffalow longer than others who had greater attachments to their native Villagethe ravages of the Small Pox (which Swept off 400 men & women & Children in perpoposion) has reduced this Nation not exceeding 300 men and left them to the insults of their weaker neighbours which before was glad to be on friendly turms with them—I am told whin this fatal malady was among them they Carried ther franzey to verry extroadinary length, not only of burning their Village, but they put their wives & Children to Death with a view of their all going together to Some better Countrey—They burry their Dead on the tops of high hills and rais mounds on the top of them,—The cause or way those people took the Small Pox is uncertain, the most Probable from Some other Nation by means of a warparty
14th August, Tuesday, 1804 – a beautiful morning with a wind from the southeast. The men we sent to the Mahar Town last evening have not returned, so we’ve decided to send a spy to find out why they are delayed. At around 12 o’clock, the party returned and informed us that they couldn’t find the Indians or any fresh signs. Those people haven’t returned from their buffalo hunt. Since they have no houses, no corn, or anything other than the graves of their ancestors to keep them tied to the old village, they pursue the buffalo longer than those who have stronger ties to their native village. The ravages of smallpox, which wiped out around 400 men, women, and children, have left this nation with no more than 300 men and made them vulnerable to insults from their weaker neighbors, who were once eager to maintain friendly relations with them. I’ve been told that when this deadly disease struck them, they went to extreme lengths, not just burning their village but also killing their wives and children in the hope of all going together to some better place. They bury their dead on the tops of high hills and build mounds over them. The exact cause of how these people contracted smallpox is uncertain, but it is most likely from another nation during a war party.
Observed Time and Distance of the Sun & Moon the Moon East the 13th of August Monday 1804, three Miles NE of the Mahars old village at Fish Camp-
Observed Time and Distance of the Sun & Moon the Moon East on August 13th, Monday 1804, three miles northeast of the Mahars' old village at Fish Camp.
[Clark, August 15, 1804]
August 15th Wendesday I took ten men & went out to Beaver Dam across a Creek about a mile S W from Camp, and with a Brush Drag caught 308 fish, of the following kind (i'e) Pike, Samon, Bass, Pirch, Red horse, Small Cat, & a kind of Perch Called on the Ohio Silverfish I also Caught the Srimp which is Common to the Lower part of the Mississippi, in this Creek & in the Beaver Pond is emince beads of Mustles Verry large & fat—in my absence Capt Lewis Send the Souex interpr & a party to a Smoke which appeared to rise at no great distance to the north with a view to find Some Band of that nation, they returned and informed that they had been made Some time by Some Small party, and the hard wind of to day had set the Prarie on fire from Some high trees, which was left burning all well, Party from Ottoes not come up.
August 15th, Wednesday, I took ten men and went out to Beaver Dam across a creek about a mile southwest from camp. With a brush drag, we caught 308 fish of the following types: Pike, Salmon, Bass, Perch, Redhorse, Small Catfish, and a type of Perch called Silverfish in Ohio. I also caught shrimp, which is common in the lower part of the Mississippi. In this creek and the Beaver Pond, there are plenty of large, fat mussels. While I was gone, Captain Lewis sent the Sioux interpreter and a group to investigate some smoke that was rising nearby to the north, hoping to find a band from that nation. They returned and reported that the smoke had been made some time ago by a small party, and that the strong wind today had set the prairie on fire from some nearby tall trees, which were still burning. The party from the Otoe tribe has not arrived yet.
Camp three Miles N. E of the Mahar Village
[Clark, August 15, 1804]
August 15th Wednesday 1804 I went with ten men to a Creek Damed by the Beavers about half way to the Village, with Some Small willow & Bark we mad a Drag and haulted up the Creek, and Cought 318 fish of different kind i'e Peke, Bass, Salmon, perch, red horse, Small Cat, and a kind of perch Called Silverfish, on the Ohio.—I cought a Srimp prosisely of Shape Size & flavour of those about N. Orleans & the lower party of the Mississippi in this Creek which is only the pass or Streight from Beaver Pond to another, is Crouded with large Mustles Verry fat, Ducks, Pliver of different Kinds are on those Ponds as well as on the river in My absence Capt. Lewis Sent Mr. Durioue the Souix interpeter & three men to examine a fire which threw up an emence Smoke from the Praries on the N. E. Side of the River and at no great distance from Camp—the Object of this party was to find Some Bands of Seouex which the inptr. thought was near the Smoke and get them to Come in—in the evening this Party returned and infoermed, that the fire arrose from Some trees which had been left burning by a Small party of Seoux whom had passed Several Days—the wind Setting from that point, blew the Smoke from that pt. over our Camp. our party all in health and Sperrits the men Sent to the Ottoes & in pursute of the Deserter Reed has not yet returned or joined our party.
August 15, Wednesday, 1804: I went with ten men to a creek dammed by beavers, about halfway to the village. With some small willows and bark, we made a drag and headed up the creek, catching 318 fish of various kinds, including pike, bass, salmon, perch, red horse, small catfish, and a type of perch called silverfish, in the Ohio River. I caught a shrimp that was exactly the same shape, size, and flavor as those found around New Orleans and in the lower Mississippi. This creek, which is just the passage from Beaver Pond to another, is filled with large, very fat mussels. Ducks and different kinds of plover are on those ponds as well as on the river. In my absence, Captain Lewis sent Mr. Durioue, the Sioux interpreter, and three men to investigate a fire that was producing huge amounts of smoke from the prairies on the northeast side of the river, not far from our camp. The goal of this group was to find some bands of Sioux that the interpreter believed were near the smoke and try to get them to come in. In the evening, this group returned and reported that the fire came from some trees that had been left burning by a small party of Sioux who had passed through several days ago. The wind blowing from that direction carried the smoke over our camp. Everyone in our party is healthy and in good spirits. The men sent to the Ottawas and those pursuing the deserter Reed have not yet returned or rejoined us.
[Clark, August 16, 1804]
Aug. 16th 1804 a Verry cool morning the winds as usial from the N W. Capt Lewis with men went out to the Creek & Pond & Caught about 800 fine fish with a Bush Drag of the following kind i.e. 79 Pike, 8 Salmon, 1 Rock, 1 flat Back, 127 Buffalow & readHorse, 4 Bass & 490 Cat, with many Small & large Silver fish,—I had a mast made & fixed to day The Party Sent to the Ottoes not yet arrived. the wind Shifted around to the S E. the night's are Cool & a Breeze rises after generally; Sometimes before night which Blows off the Musquitors cools the atmospere.
Aug. 16, 1804, a very cool morning with the usual winds from the northwest. Captain Lewis and the men went out to the creek and pond and caught about 800 fine fish using a bush drag, including 79 pike, 8 salmon, 1 rock fish, 1 flatback, 127 buffalo and redhorse, 4 bass, and 490 catfish, along with many small and large silverfish. I had a mast made and fixed today. The party sent to the Ottoes has not arrived yet. The wind shifted around to the southeast. The nights are cool, and a breeze generally picks up after dark—sometimes before nightfall—which blows away the mosquitoes and cools the atmosphere.
[Clark, August 16, 1804]
16th August Thursday 1804 Fishing Camp 3 ms. N. E. of the Mahars. a verry cool morning the wind as usial from the N W.
16th August Thursday 1804 Fishing Camp 3 miles N.E. of the Mahars. A very cool morning with the wind, as usual, coming from the N.W.
Capt Lewis took 12 men & went to the Pond & Crek between Camp and the old Village and Cought upwards of Boo fine fish, 79 Pike, 8 Salmon, 1 Rock,flat Back, 127 Buffalow & red horse 4 Bass & 490 Catt. with many Small Silver fish I had a Mast made &fixed to the Boat to day, the Party Sent to the Ottoes not yet joined us—the wind Shifted arround to the S. E. everry evening a Breeze rises which blows off the Musquitors & Cools the atmispeire.
Capt. Lewis took 12 men and went to the pond and creek between the camp and the old village, catching over 800 nice fish: 79 pike, 8 salmon, 1 rock flatback, 127 buffalo and red horse, 4 bass, and 490 catfish, along with many small silverfish. I had a mast made and fixed to the boat today. The group sent to the Ottoes has not joined us yet. Every evening, the wind shifts to the southeast, bringing a breeze that blows away the mosquitoes and cools the atmosphere.
[Clark, August 17, 1804]
17th August 1804. a fine morning Wind from the S. E. I will here annex the Latds & Distances of the Different notable placies from the River Dubois or Mouth up.
17th August 1804. A nice morning with a wind from the southeast. I will now attach the latitudes and distances of the different notable places from the River Dubois or Mouth upstream.
The Longitudes are not yet Calculated, We must be at this time about 99° 45' 00" West of Greenwich—I Collected a grass much resembling wheet with a grain like Rye, much fuller of grain, one like Rye & one like Barley Grass Small, a Grass like Timothey except the Seed which is on branches from the main Stalk-
The longitudes haven't been calculated yet. We must be around 99° 45' 00" west of Greenwich. I collected a type of grass that closely resembles wheat, with a grain that looks like rye, much fuller of grain—one like rye and one like barley. There's also a small grass similar to timothy, except the seed is on branches extending from the main stalk.
Late this evening one of the party Sent after the deserters returned & joined us, he left the party 3 miles back, they cought both Deserters, one of them La liberty, got away from them, the Great Chief & 2nd Chief of the ottoes accompaned the Party with a view to bring about a Peice between themselves & the Mahar a great missfortune that the Mahars have not returned from the hunt—Sent & fiered the Prarie near Camp to bring in the Mahars & Souex if any are near. a Cool evening, 2 Beever Cought
Late this evening, one of the group sent after the deserters returned and rejoined us. He left the group three miles back. They caught both deserters; one of them, La Liberty, managed to escape. The Great Chief and the Second Chief of the Ottoes joined the group to help bring about peace between themselves and the Mahars. It’s a huge disappointment that the Mahars haven't returned from the hunt. We sent out a signal and fired the prairie near camp to try to bring in the Mahars and Sioux if any are nearby. It’s a cool evening, and we caught two beavers.
[Clark, August 17, 1804]
17th August Friday 1804. a fine Morning the wind from the S. E. I collected a grass much resembling wheat in its grouth the grain like Rye, also Some resembling Rye & Barly. a kind of Timothey, the Seed of which branches from the main Stalk & is more like flax Seed than that of a Timothey
17th August, Friday, 1804. A beautiful morning with the wind coming from the southeast. I collected a type of grass that looks a lot like wheat in its growth, with grains resembling rye, as well as some that looks like rye and barley. There's also a kind of timothy, the seeds of which branch off from the main stalk and look more like flax seeds than those of timothy.
at 6 oClock this evening Labieche one of the Party Sent to the Ottoes joined, and informed that the Party was behind with one of the Deserters M B. Reed and the 3 principal Chiefs of the Nations—La Liberty they cought but he decived them and got away—the object of those Chiefs comeing forward is to make a peace with the Mahars thro us-. as the Mahars are not at home this great object cannot be accomplished at this time Set the Praries on fire to bring the Mahars & Soues if any were near, this being the usial Signal.
At 6 o'clock this evening, Labieche, one of the group sent to the Ottoes, joined us and informed us that the group was delayed by one of the deserters, M.B. Reed, and the three main chiefs of the Nations. They caught La Liberty, but he deceived them and escaped. The reason those chiefs came forward is to establish peace with the Mahars through us. Since the Mahars are not home, this important goal cannot be achieved right now. They set the prairies on fire to attract the Mahars and Soues if any were nearby, as this is the usual signal.
a Cool evining two Beaver Cought to day.
a cool evening two beavers caught today.
[Clark, August 18, 1804]
18th August 1804 a fine morning, despatched Jo. Fields for the Party from the Ottoes, whom did not Come up last night Wind from the S. E. (Panies returned from their hunt, the 12th of August) in the after Part of the Day the Party arrived, we had a Short talk after which we gave them Provisions to eate & proceeded to the trial of Reed, he confessed, & we Sentenced him only to run the Ganelet four times thro the Detachment & party, and not to be considered in the future as one of the Permonant Party, after the Punihment of about 500 Lashes, at night we had Some talk with the Chiefs about the Cause of War between them and the Mahars. posponed the further consultation untill tomorrow. had a Dance which lasted untile 11 oClock, the Close of Cap Lewis Birthday. a fine evening wind S. E
August 18, 1804, was a beautiful morning. We sent Jo Fields to get the group from the Ottoes, who hadn't come up last night. The wind was blowing from the southeast. The Panies returned from their hunt on August 12. Later in the day, the group arrived, and we had a brief conversation before giving them provisions to eat. Then we proceeded to the trial of Reed. He confessed, and we sentenced him to run the gauntlet four times through the detachment and party, and he wouldn't be considered part of the permanent group in the future after receiving about 500 lashes. At night, we talked with the chiefs about the reason for the war between them and the Mahars but postponed further discussion until tomorrow. We had a dance that lasted until 11 o'clock, closing out Captain Lewis's birthday. It was a lovely evening with a southeast wind.
Sent to the Towns, i e Reiubin Fields Will. Brattin G. Drewyer & W Labieche.
Sent to the Towns, i.e., Reiubin Fields Will, Brattin G. Drewyer & W Labieche.
[Clark, August 18, 1804]
18th August Satday 1804 a fine morning. Wind from the S. E. in the after part of the Day the Party with the Indians arrivd. we meet them under a Shade near the Boat and after a Short talk we gave them Provisions to eat & proceeded to the trail of Reed, he Confessed that he "Deserted & Stold a public Rifle Shot-pouch Powder & Bals" and requested we would be as favourable with him as we Could consistantly with our Oathes-which we were and only Sentenced him to run the Gantlet four times through the Party & that each man with 9 Swichies Should punish him and for him not to be considered in future as one of the Party
18th August Saturday 1804, a beautiful morning. The wind was coming from the southeast. In the afternoon, the group arrived with the Indians. We met them in the shade near the boat, and after a brief conversation, we gave them some provisions to eat and went to the trail of Reed. He admitted that he "deserted and stole a public rifle, shot pouch, powder, and balls" and asked us to be as lenient as we could while remaining true to our oaths. We agreed and only sentenced him to run the gauntlet four times through the group, with each man punishing him with nine switches, and he would not be considered part of the group moving forward.
The three principal Chiefs petitioned for Pardin for this man After we explained the injurey Such men could doe them by false representation, & explang. the Customs of our Countrey they were all Satisfied with the propriety of the Sentence & was witness to the punishment. after which we had Some talk with the Chiefs about the orrigan of the war between them & the Mahars &c. &c.—it commenced in this way i'e' in two of the Missouries Tribe resideing with the Ottoes went to the Mahars to Steel horses, they Killed them both which was a cause of revenge on the part of the Missouris & Ottoes, they also brought war on themselves Nearly in the Same way with the Panea Loups and they are greatly in fear of a just revenge from the Panies for takeing their Corn from the Pania Towns in their absence hunting this Summer.
The three main Chiefs asked for Pardin for this man. After we explained the harm such men could cause them through false representation and explained the customs of our country, they were all satisfied with the correctness of the decision and witnessed the punishment. After that, we had some discussions with the Chiefs about the origin of the war between them and the Mahars, etc. It started this way: two members of the Missouri Tribe, who were living with the Ottoes, went to steal horses from the Mahars, and they were both killed. This led to a desire for revenge from the Missouris and Ottoes. They also brought war upon themselves nearly the same way with the Panea Loups, and they are very afraid of just revenge from the Panies for taking their corn from the Pania towns while they were away hunting this summer.
the evening was Closed with an extra Gill of Whiskey & a Dance untill 11 oClock.
The evening ended with an extra shot of whiskey and a dance until 11 o'clock.
[Clark, August 19, 1804]
19th of August Sunday 1804 a fine morning wind from the S. E I prepd. a present from the Chiefs & Warriers, the main Chief Brack fast with us naked; & beged for a Sun glass.—at 10 oClock we assembled the Cheifs & Warriers under an Orning and delivered a Speech, explanitary of the One Sent to this Nation from the Council Bluff, &c. &c.-
19th of August, Sunday 1804, a beautiful morning with a wind from the southeast. I prepared a gift for the chiefs and warriors. The main chief, Brack, was with us, unclothed, and asked for a sundial. At 10 o'clock, we gathered the chiefs and warriors under a shelter and delivered a speech explaining the message sent to this nation from the Council Bluff, etc.
Children When we Sent the 4 men to your towns, we expected to See & Speake with the Mahas by the time you would arrive and to lay the foundation of a peace between you and them
Children When we sent the 4 men to your towns, we expected to see & speak with the Mahas by the time you arrived and to lay the foundation of a peace between you and them
The Speech of Petieit Villeu Little Thief, If you think right and Can waite untill all our Warriers Come from the Buffalows hunt, we Can then tell you who is our men of Consequnce—My fathers always lived with the father of the B together & we always live with the Big hose-all the men here are the Suns of Chief and will be glad to get Something from the hands of their fathers.—My father always directed me to be friendly with the white people, I have always done So and went often to the french, give my party pieces of Paper & we will be glad—The names
The Speech of Petit Villeu Little Thief, If you think logically and can wait until all our warriors come back from the buffalo hunt, we can then tell you who our important people are—My fathers always lived with the father of the B, and we always live with the Big House—all the men here are the sons of chiefs and will be happy to receive something from their fathers' hands.—My father always advised me to be friendly with the white people, and I have always done so and often visited the French, giving my party pieces of paper, and we will be glad—The names
a Meddel to Car ka pa ha or Crow's head
a Meddel to Car ka pa ha or Crow's head
a Comsi or Cfte. Sar na no ne or Iron Eyes a Ottoe approves & says he is Brave Nee Swor un ja Big ax a Ottoe approves Star gra hun ja Big blue Eyes a Ottoe Delivers up his comm Ne ca sa wa-Black Cat a Missouris approves the Council & he wants paper for his men at home, he after wards came & petitioned for his Paper War-sar sha co-Brave Man aproves
a Comsi or Cfte. Sar na no ne or Iron Eyes a Ottoe approves & says he is Brave Nee Swor un ja Big ax a Ottoe approves Star gra hun ja Big blue Eyes a Ottoe Delivers up his comm Ne ca sa wa-Black Cat a Missouris approves the Council & he wants paper for his men at home, he after wards came & petitioned for his Paper War-sar sha co-Brave Man aproves
The Speach of the Big Horse I went to the hunt Buffalow I heard your word and I returned, I and all my men with me will attend to your wordsyou want to make peace with all, I want to make peace also, the young men when they want to go to war where is the goods you give me to Keep them at home, if you give me Some Whisky to give a Drop to my men at home.
The Speech of the Big Horse I went to hunt buffalo. I heard what you said, and I returned. My men and I will listen to your words. You want to make peace with everyone, and I want to make peace too. When the young men want to go to war, where are the goods you will give me to keep them at home? If you could give me some whiskey to share with my men at home, that would help.
I came here naked and must return home naked. if I have Something to give the young men I can prevent their going to war. You want to make peace with all, It is good we want Something to give my men at home. I am a pore man, and cant quiet without means, a Spoon ful of your milk will quiet all.
I came here without anything and will have to go home the same way. If I have something to offer the young men, I can stop them from going to war. You want to make peace with everyone, which is great, but I also need something to bring back to my people at home. I'm a poor man, and I can't settle down without resources; just a spoonful of your milk will calm everything down.
2nd Speech of the Little Thief I want Mr. Faufon & Mr. La bieche to make a piece with the Panies Loups. I want William to go & make a piece with the Loups, he can Speake english & will doe will to go.—refused that William LaBiech shall accompany Faufon
2nd Speech of the Little Thief I want Mr. Faufon & Mr. La bieche to make a deal with the Panies Loups. I want William to go & negotiate with the Loups; he can speak English & will do well to go.—refused that William LaBiech shall accompany Faufon
Those people were not well Satisfied with the Presents given them, they were much Surprised at the air gun and Several curiosities which were Shown them none more than the magnet, those people became extreemly troublesom to us begging Whisky & little articles. Sergt. Floyd was taken violently bad with the Beliose Cholick and is dangerously ill we attempt in Vain to releive him, I am much concerned for his Situation- we could get nothing to Stay on his Stomach a moment nature appear exosting fast in him every man is attentive to him york prlly
Those people were not very satisfied with the gifts they received; they were really surprised by the air gun and several curiosities that were shown to them, especially the magnet. They became extremely troublesome, asking for whiskey and little items. Sergeant Floyd was taken very ill with severe cholera and is dangerously unwell. We are trying in vain to help him, and I’m very worried about his condition. Nothing seems to stay in his stomach for even a moment; he seems to be fading fast. Every man is attentive to him.
[Clark, August 19, 1804]
19th August Sunday 1804 a find morning wind from the S. E. prepared a Small Present for the Cheifs and warriers present. the main Cheif Brackfast with us, & beged for a Sun glass, those People are all naked, Covered only with Breech Clouts Blankits or Buffalow Roabes, the flesh Side Painted of Differant Colours & figures. At 10 oClock we assembled the Chiefs & warriers 9 in number under an orning, and we explained the Speech Sent to the nation from the Council Bluffs by Mr. Faufon. The 3 Chiefs and all the men or warriers made Short Speeches approveing the advice & Council their great father had Sent them, and Concluded by giveing themselves Some Credit for their acts.
19th August Sunday 1804, a nice morning with a light breeze from the southeast, we prepared a small gift for the chiefs and warriors present. The main chief had breakfast with us and asked for a sundial. These people are all naked, covered only with breech cloths, blankets, or buffalo robes, with the flesh side painted in different colors and patterns. At 10 o’clock, we gathered the chiefs and warriors, nine in total, under an awning, and we explained the speech sent to the nation from the Council Bluffs by Mr. Faufon. The three chiefs and all the warriors gave short speeches approving the advice and counsel their great father had sent them and concluded by giving themselves some credit for their actions.
We then brought out the presents and exchanged the Big horses Meadel & gave him one equal to the one Sent to the Little Thief & gave all Some Small articls & 8 Carrots of Tobacco, we gave one Small Meadel to one of the Cheifs & a Sertificate to the others of their good intentions.
We then brought out the gifts and exchanged the big medal and gave him one equal to the one sent to the little thief. We also gave everyone some small items and 8 carrots of tobacco. We gave one small medal to one of the chiefs and a certificate to the others for their good intentions.
Names
The Little Theif Grd. Cheif I have mentioned before
The Big horse
Crows Head (or) Kar Ka paha—Missory
Black Cat (or) Ne ma Sa wa—do
Iron Eyes (or) Sar na no no—Ottoe
Big ax (or) Nee Swar Un ja—do
Big Blue Eyes—Star gea Hun ja—do
Brave Man (or) War Sar Sha co
Names
The Little Thief Grad Chief I have mentioned before
The Big Horse
Crow's Head (or) Kar Ka Paha—Missory
Black Cat (or) Ne ma Sa wa—do
Iron Eyes (or) Sar na no no—Ottoe
Big Axe (or) Nee Swar Un ja—do
Big Blue Eyes—Star gea Hun ja—do
Brave Man (or) War Sar Sha coOne of those Indians after reciving his Certificate delivd. it again to me the Big blue eyes the Chief petitioned for the Ctft. again, we would not give the Certft. but rebuked them verry roughly for haveing in object goods and not peace with their neighbours—this language they did not like at first, but at length all petitioned for us to give back the Certificate to the Big blu eyes he came forward and made a plausible excuse, I then gave the Certificate the Great Cheif to bestow it to the most Worthey, they gave it to him, we then gave them a,Dram & broke up the Council, the Chiefs requested we would not leave them this evening. we deturmed to Set out early in the morning we Showed them many Curiosities and the air gun which they were much asstonished at. those people beged much for wishey—Serjeant Floyd is taken verry bad all at one with a Beliose Chorlick we attempt to relieve him without Success as yet, he gets wordse and we are muc allarmed at his Situation, all attention to him.
One of the Indians, after receiving his Certificate, handed it back to me. The Chief with the big blue eyes asked for the Certificate again. We refused to give it back and scolded them quite harshly for focusing on material goods instead of maintaining peace with their neighbors. They didn’t like this at first, but eventually, all of them requested that we return the Certificate to the Chief with the big blue eyes. He stepped forward and made a convincing excuse. I then handed the Certificate to the Great Chief to award it to the most deserving person. They gave it to him, and we then offered them a drink and ended the Council meeting. The Chiefs asked us not to leave them this evening, but we decided to set out early in the morning. We showed them many curiosities, including the air gun, which amazed them greatly. The people begged us for whiskey. Sergeant Floyd has suddenly fallen very ill with a severe cholera-like condition. We’ve tried to help him, but so far without success. He is getting worse, and we are all very alarmed by his situation, paying all our attention to him.
[Clark, August 20, 1804]
20th August Monday after gieving faufon Some goods the Indians a Canister of whiskey, we Set out under a jentle Breeze from the S. E Shields went with the horses—I am Dull & heavy been up the greater Part of last night with Serjt. Floyd, who is as bad as he can be to live the motion of his bowels having changed &c. &c. is the Cause of his violent attack &c. &c.
20th August, Monday after giving a few goods to the Indians, a canister of whiskey, we set out under a gentle breeze from the southeast. Shields went with the horses. I'm feeling dull and heavy; I was up for most of last night with Sergeant Floyd, who is really struggling with his condition. The changes in his digestion are causing his severe issues.
we Came to make a warm bath for Sergt. Floyd hopeing it would brace him a little, before we could get him in to this bath he expired, with a great deel of composure, haveing Said to me before his death that he was going away and wished me to write a letter—we Buried him to the top of a high round hill over looking the river & Countrey for a great distance Situated just below a Small river without a name to which we name & call Floyds river, the Bluffs Sergts. Floyds Bluff-we buried him with all the honors of War, and fixed a Ceeder post at his head with his name title & Day of the month and year Capt Lewis read the funeral Service over him after paying everry respect to the Body of this desceased man (who had at All times given us proofs of his impatiality Sincurity to ourselves and good will to Serve his Countrey) we returned to the Boat & proceeded to the Mouth of the little river 30 yd. wide & Camped a butifull evening
We came to prepare a warm bath for Sergeant Floyd, hoping it would help him feel a bit better before we could get him into it. Sadly, before we could get him in, he passed away with great composure. He had told me before dying that he was leaving and asked me to write a letter for him. We buried him on top of a high round hill overlooking the river and the countryside for a long distance, situated just below a small unnamed river, which we named Floyd's River, and the bluffs were called Sergeant Floyd's Bluff. We buried him with full military honors and placed a cedar post at his head with his name, title, and the date. Captain Lewis read the funeral service for him after paying all respects to the body of this deceased man, who had always shown us his fairness, sincerity, and good will to serve his country. We then returned to the boat and moved to the mouth of the little river, which was 30 yards wide, and camped on a beautiful evening.
[Clark, August 20, 1804]
20th August Monday 1804 Sergeant Floyd much weaker and no better. Made Mr. Fauforn the interpter a fiew presents, and the Indians a Canister of whisky we Set out under a gentle breeze from the S. E. and proceeded on verry well- Serjeant Floyd as bad as he can be no pulse & nothing will Stay a moment on his Stomach or bowels
20th August Monday 1804 Sergeant Floyd is much weaker and not improving. I gave Mr. Fauforn, the interpreter, a few gifts, and the Indians received a canister of whisky. We set out with a gentle breeze from the southeast and made good progress. Sergeant Floyd is as bad as can be; there's no pulse, and nothing stays in his stomach or bowels for even a moment.
Passed two Islands on the S. S. and at first Bluff on the S S. Serj. Floyd Died with a great deel of Composure, before his death he Said to me, "I am going away. I want you to write me a letter"—We buried him on the top of the bluff 1/2 Miles below a Small river to which we Gave his name, he was buried with the Honors of War much lamented; a Seeder post with the (1) Name Sergt. C. Floyd died here 20th of August 1804 was fixed at the head of his grave—This Man at all times gave us proofs of his firmness and Deturmined resolution to doe Service to his Countrey and honor to himself after paying all the honor to our Decesed brother we Camped in the mouth of floyds river about 30 yards wide, a butifull evening.-
Passed two islands to the south and at first Bluff on the south side. Sergeant Floyd died with great composure; before he passed, he said to me, "I’m going away. I want you to write me a letter." We buried him at the top of the bluff, half a mile below a small river that we named after him. He was buried with military honors and was deeply mourned. A wooden post was placed at the head of his grave that read, "Sergt. C. Floyd died here 20th of August 1804." This man consistently showed his strength and determination to serve his country and honor himself. After paying our respects to our deceased brother, we camped at the mouth of Floyd's River, which is about 30 yards wide, on a beautiful evening.
[Clark, August 21, 1804]
21st August Tuesday we Set out verry early this morning under a Gentle Breeze from the S. E Course S. 82° E 3 mes to the upper pt. of a Bluff on the S. S. passed Willow Creek and Some rock below the mouth of the Seouex river on the Starboard Side those Clifts are about 170 feet high, this river heads with the St. peters and is navagable 75 Leagues (by the act. of Mr. Durien) to a fall of near 200 for, 2 large & Som Small Pitchs below the falls on the right a Creek corns in on which the red pipe Stone is percured, & in the praries about, a place of Peace with all nations.
21st August, Tuesday: We set out very early this morning under a gentle breeze from the southeast, heading S. 82° E for 3 miles to the upper point of a bluff on the south side. We passed Willow Creek and some rocks below the mouth of the Sioux River on the starboard side. Those cliffs are about 170 feet high. This river starts with the St. Peters and is navigable for 75 leagues (according to Mr. Durien) until it reaches a fall of nearly 200 feet, with 2 large and some small pitches below the falls. On the right, a creek comes in where red pipe stone is found, and in the prairies around, there is a place of peace with all nations.
[Clark, August 21, 1804]
21st August Tuesday 1804 We Set out verry early this morning and proceeded on under a gentle Breeze from the S. E. passed willow creek Small on the S. S. below a Bluff of about 170 feet high and one 1/2 mes. above Floyds river at 11/2 miles higher & above the Bluff passed the Soues River S. S. this River is about the Size of Grand river and as Mr. Durrien our Scones intptr. says "navagable to the falls 70 or 80 Leagues and above these falls" Still further, those falls are 200 feet or there abouts & has two princapal pitches, and heads with the St. peters passing the head of the Demoien, on the right below the falls a Creek Coms in which passes thro Clifts of red rock which the Indians make pipes of, and when the different nations Meet at those queries all is piece, passed a place in a Prarie on the L. S. where the Mahars had a Village formerly. the Countrey above the Platt R has a great Similarity. Campd. on the L. Side. Clouds appear to rise in the west & threten wind. I found a verry excellent froot resembling the read Current, the Scrub on which it grows resembles Privey & about the Common hight of a wild plumb-
21st August, Tuesday, 1804 We set out very early this morning and continued on under a gentle breeze from the southeast. We passed Willow Creek, small on the south side, below a bluff that’s about 170 feet high, and one and a half miles above Floyd's River. After traveling another mile and a half above the bluff, we reached the Soues River on the southeast. This river is about the size of the Grand River, and as Mr. Durrien, our scout interpreter, says, it is "navigable to the falls 70 or 80 leagues and above these falls." Further on, those falls are around 200 feet high and have two main drops. It begins with the St. Peters River, passing the head of the Demoines River. On the right, below the falls, a creek comes in that flows through cliffs of red rock, which the Indians use to make pipes. When the different nations meet at these quarries, everything is peaceful. We passed a spot in a prairie on the left side where the Mahars used to have a village. The country above the Platte River has a great similarity. We camped on the left side. Clouds appear to be rising in the west, threatening wind. I found a very excellent fruit resembling the red currant; the scrub it grows on looks like privet and is about the height of a wild plum.
The two men Sent with the horses has not joined us as yet
[Clark, August 22, 1804]
22nd of August Wendesday 1804 Set out early wind from the South. G Shannon joined the Boat last night. Course this morning is S 47° W. 11/4 on the S. point West 11/4 me. to the Commencement of a Bluff on the L. S. the High land near the river for Some distance below. This Bluff contain Pyrites alum, Copperass & a Kind Markesites also a clear Soft Substance which will mold and become pliant like wax) Capt lewis was near being Poisened by the Smell in pounding this Substance I belv to be arsenic or Cabalt. I observe great Quantity of Cops. ans and almin pure & Straters of white & brown earth of 6 Inch thick. a Creek Corns in above the Bluffs on which there is great quantities of those minerals, This Creek I call Roloje a at those Allom banks Shields joined in with two Deer
22nd of August, Wednesday, 1804 Set out early with the wind coming from the south. G. Shannon joined the boat last night. Our course this morning is S 47° W. 1.25 miles on the south side, heading west 1.25 miles to the start of a bluff on the left side. The high ground near the river continues for some distance below. This bluff contains pyrites, alum, copperas, and a type of marcasite, as well as a clear, soft substance that can be molded and becomes pliable like wax. Captain Lewis nearly got poisoned from the smell while grinding this substance, which I believe to be arsenic or cobalt. I see a large quantity of copper and pure alum, along with layers of white and brown earth that are 6 inches thick. A creek comes in above the bluffs, where there are large quantities of those minerals. I name this creek Roloje. At those alum banks, Shields joined us with two deer.
Camped on the S. S. a Great Deel of Elk Sign fresh Capt. Lewis took a Dost of Salts this evening to carry off the effects of (arsenec) or cobalt which he was trying to find out the real quallity (2) passed a Clift of Rock much impregnated with alum, Containing also a great quantity of Cabalt
Camped on the S. S., there were a lot of fresh elk tracks. Capt. Lewis took a dose of salts this evening to flush out the effects of arsenic or cobalt, as he was trying to determine their true quality. We passed a cliff of rock heavily infused with alum, which also contained a large amount of cobalt.
ordered a Vote of the men for a Sergeant of the three highest numbers a choice to be made Gass Bratton & Gibson—Gass is worth remark, that my Ink after Standing in the pot 3 or four days Soaks up & becons thick
ordered a vote by the men for a sergeant from the three highest numbers—a choice to be made: Gass, Bratton, and Gibson. It’s worth noting that my ink, after sitting in the pot for three or four days, soaks up and becomes thick.
[Clark, August 22, 1804]
22nd August Friday 1804 Set out early wind from the South at three miles we landed at a Bluff where the two men Sent with the horses were waiting with two Deer, by examonation of this (1) Bluff Contained alum, Copperas, Cobalt, Pyrites; a alum rock Soft & Sand Stone. Capt. Lewis in proveing the quality of those minerals was near poisoning himself by the fumes & tast of the Cabalt which had the appearance of Soft Isonglass—Copperas & alum is verry pure, Above this Bluff a Small Creek Coms in from the L. S. passing under the Clifts for Several miles, this Creek I Call Roloje a name I learned last night in my Sleep. (2) Eight) Seven miles above is a Clift of Allom Stone of a Dark Brown Colr. Containing also in crusted in the Crevices & Shelves of the rock great qts. of Cabalt, Semented Shels & a red earth. from this the (3) river bends to the East and is within 3 or 4 miles of the River Soues at the place where that river Coms from the high land into the Low Prarie & passes under the foot of those Hills to its mouth.
August 22, Friday, 1804 We set out early with a south wind at three miles. We landed at a bluff where the two men sent with the horses were waiting with two deer. Upon examining this bluff, we found it contained alum, copperas, cobalt, and pyrites; the alum rock was soft, and there was sandstone. Captain Lewis, while testing the quality of these minerals, almost poisoned himself from the fumes and taste of the cobalt, which looked like soft isinglass. Copperas and alum are very pure. Above this bluff, a small creek comes in from the left side, passing under the cliffs for several miles. I named this creek Roloje, a name I learned last night in my sleep. Seven miles above is a cliff of alum stone with a dark brown color, which also contains large quantities of cobalt, cemented shells, and red earth in the crevices and shelves of the rock. From here, the river bends to the east and is within three or four miles of the River Soues, at the point where that river comes from the high land into the low prairie and passes under the foot of those hills to its mouth.
Capt Lewis took a Dost of Salts to work off the effects of the Arsenic, we Camped on the S. S. Sailed the greater part of this day with a hard wind from the S. E. great deel of Elk Sign, and great appearance of wind from the N. W.
Capt. Lewis took a dose of salts to counteract the effects of the arsenic. We camped on the south side. We spent most of the day sailing with a strong wind coming from the southeast. There were a lot of elk signs and a strong indication of wind coming from the northwest.
ordered a vote for a Serjeant to chuse one of three which may be the highest number the highest numbers are P. Gass had 19 Votes, Bratten & Gibson
ordered a vote for a Serjeant to choose one of three who may have the highest number; the highest numbers are P. Gass with 19 votes, and Bratten & Gibson.
[Clark, August 23, 1804]
23rd August Thursday 1804 Set out this morning verry early, the two men R. Fields & Shannon did not Come up last night, I went out and Killed a fine Buck, J. Fields Killed a Buffaloes, 2 Elk Swam by the boat whilst I was out and was not Killed, many guns fired at it R. Fields Came up with the horses & brought two Deer, Collins Killed a Small doe, Several Prarie wolves Seen Course West 4 Mls. to the mouth of a Small run between two Bluffs of yellow Clay North 31/4 miles to the upper Pt. of Some timber in the bend to S. S. near where R. fields Killed the Buffalow passed the pt. of High Land on S. S at 1/4 of a mile, Capt. Lewis went out with 8 men & brought the buffalow to the river at this bend, C. Lewis Killed a Goose, wind blew hard of the flying Sands which rasies like a Cloud of Smoke from the Bars when the wind Blows, the Sand being fine and containing a breat perpotion of earth and when it lights it Sticks to every thing it touches at this time the grass is white S 48° 3 miles to a point of willows on the S. S. haveing passed the Sand Island L. S Camped on the L S above the Island Saw an elk Standing on a Sand bar. Shields Shot it thro the neck 101/4
23rd August Thursday 1804 We set out this morning very early. The two men, R. Fields and Shannon, didn’t show up last night. I went out and took down a nice buck. J. Fields killed a buffalo, and two elk swam by the boat while I was out and weren’t killed, despite many shots fired at them. R. Fields arrived with the horses and brought two deer; Collins shot a small doe. We saw several prairie wolves. We traveled west for 4 miles to the mouth of a small stream between two bluffs of yellow clay, then went north for 31/4 miles to the upper part of some timber in the bend to the south near where R. Fields killed the buffalo. We passed the high land point on the south side at a quarter of a mile. Captain Lewis went out with 8 men and brought the buffalo to the river at this bend. C. Lewis killed a goose. The wind blew hard, kicking up sand that rose like a cloud of smoke from the bars when the wind blew. The sand is fine and has a good amount of earth in it, and when it settles, it sticks to everything it touches. At this point, the grass is white. We traveled south for 48° and 3 miles to a point of willows on the south side after passing the sand island. We camped on the left side above the island and saw an elk standing on a sandbar. Shields shot it through the neck.
[Clark, August 23, 1804]
23rd August Thursday 1804 Set out this morning verry early the two men with the horses did not Come up last night I walked on Shore & Killed a fat Buck—J. Fields Sent out to hunt Came to the Boat and informed that he had Killed a Buffalow in the plain a head Cap Lewis took 12 men and had the buffalow brought to the boat in the next bend to the S S. 2 Elk Swam the river, and was fired at from the boat R. Fields came up with the Horses and brought two Deer one Deer Killed from the Boat. Several Prarie Wolves Seen to day Saw Elk Standing on the Sand bar
23rd August Thursday 1804 We set out this morning really early. The two men with the horses didn’t show up last night. I walked onshore and killed a fat buck. J. Fields went out to hunt and came back to the boat to inform us that he had killed a buffalo in the plain ahead. Cap Lewis took 12 men and had the buffalo brought to the boat in the next bend to the south side. Two elk swam across the river and were fired at from the boat. R. Fields arrived with the horses and brought two deer; one was killed from the boat. Several prairie wolves were seen today, and I spotted elk standing on the sandbar.
The Wind blew hard West and raised the Sands off the bar in Such Clouds that we Could Scercely See this Sand being fine and verry light Stuck to every thing it touched, and in the Plain for a half a mile the distance I was out every Spire of Grass was covered with the Sand or Dust We Camped on the L. S. above a Sand Island one Beaver Cought
The wind howled from the west and whipped up the sand off the bar in such clouds that we could barely see. The sand was fine and very light, clinging to everything it touched. For half a mile in the plain where I was, every blade of grass was coated with the sand or dust. We camped on the L.S. above a sand island, and one beaver was caught.
[Clark, August 24, 1804]
24th August Friday 1804. Some rain last night & this morning, we Set out at the usial time and proceeded on the Same Course of last night Continued S. 48° W. 21/4 mes. to the Commencement of a Blue Clay Bliff on LS. about 180 or 190 feet high West under rugged Bluffs 13/4 ms. passing Several Small Dreens, falling into the river those Bluffs has been lately on fire and is yet verry Hott, Great appearance of Coal, & imence quantities of Cabalt in Side of that part oft the Bluff which Sliped in, on the Sides of the hill great quanities of a kind of Current or froot resembling the Current in appearance much richer and finer flavd. grows on a Scrub resembling a Damsen and is now fine and makes a Delightful) Tart above this Bluff I took my Servent and a french boy I have and walked on Shore I killed a Deer which york Packed on his back In the evening I Killed two Buck Elk and wounded two others which I could not pursue by the Blood as my ball was So Small to bleed them well, my boys each Shot an elk—it was late and I Crossed a Point Struck the river above and halted the boat and 12 men went out brought in the meat all the after part of the day it rained we are all wet. Capt Lewis and my Self Concluded to visit a High Hill Situated in an emence Plain three Leagues N. 20° W. from the mouth of White Stone river, this hill appear to be of a Conic form and by all the different Nations in this quater is Supposed to be a place of Deavels ors that they are in human form with remarkable large heads and about 18 inches high; that they are very watchfull and ar armed with Sharp arrows with which they can kill at a great distance; they are said to kill all persons who are so hardy as to attemp to approach the hill; they state that tradition informs them that many indians have suffered by these little people and among others that three Maha men fell a sacrefice to their murceyless fury not meany years since—so much do the Mahas Souix Ottoes and other neibhbouring nations believe this fable that no consideration is sufficient to induce them to approach this hill.
24th August Friday 1804. It rained last night and this morning. We set out at the usual time and continued on the same course as last night, heading S. 48° W. for 2.25 miles to the start of a blue clay cliff on the left side, about 180 or 190 feet high. We traveled west under rugged bluffs for 1.75 miles, passing several small streams that flow into the river. The bluffs have recently caught fire and are still very hot, showing a lot of coal with immense quantities of cobalt on the side that has slipped down. On the hillsides, there's a large amount of a type of currant or fruit that looks much like currants but is richer and finer in flavor, growing on a shrub that resembles a damson. It’s in good condition now and makes a delightful tart. Above this bluff, I took my servant and a French boy I have and walked on shore. I shot a deer, which York packed on his back. In the evening, I killed two buck elk and wounded two others that I couldn’t pursue due to my ball being too small to draw enough blood. My boys each shot an elk. It got late, so I crossed a point, hit the river above, and halted the boat. Twelve men went out and brought in the meat. It rained all afternoon, and we were all wet. Captain Lewis and I decided to visit a high hill situated on a huge plain three leagues N. 20° W. from the mouth of the White Stone River. This hill appears to be conical in shape, and all the different nations in this area believe it to be a place where devils reside, or that they take on human form with notably large heads and are about 18 inches tall. They are said to be very watchful and are armed with sharp arrows that can kill from a great distance. It's said they kill anyone brave enough to approach the hill. Tradition has it that many Indians have been harmed by these little people, including reports that three Maha men fell victim to their merciless fury not many years ago. So strong is the belief among the Mahas, Sioux, Ottoes, and other neighboring nations in this tale that nothing could persuade them to approach this hill.
[Clark, August 24, 1804]
24th August Friday 1804 Some rain last night, a Continuation this morning; we Set out at the usial time and proceeded on the Course of last night to the (1) Commencement of a blue Clay Bluff of 180 or 190 feet high on the L. S. Those Bluffs appear to have been laterly on fire, and at this time is too hot for a man to bear his hand in the earth at any debth, gret appearance of Coal. An emence quantity of Cabalt or a Cristolised Substance which answers its discription is on the face of the Bluff- Great quantities of a kind of berry resembling a Current except double the Sise and Grows on a bush like a Privey, and the Size of a Damsen deliciously flavoured & makes delitefull Tarts, this froot is now ripe, I took my Servent and a french boy and Walked on Shore Killed Two Buck Elks and a faun, and intersepted the Boat and had all the meat butchered and in by Sun Set at which time it began to rain and rained hard, Cap Lewis & my Self walk out & got Verry wet, a Cloudey rainey night,—In my absence the Boat Passed a Small (2) River Called by the Indians White Stone River. this river is about 30 yards wide and runs thro a Plain & Prarie in its whole Course In a northerley direction from the mouth of this Creek in an imence Plain a high Hill is Situated, and appears of a Conic form and by the different nations of Indians in this quarter is Suppose to be the residence of Deavels. that they are in human form with remarkable large heads and about 18 Inches high, that they are Very watchfull, and are arm'd with Sharp arrows with which they Can Kill at a great distance; they are Said to Kill all persons who are So hardy as to attempt to approach the hill; they State that tradition informs them that many Indians have Suffered by those little people and among others three Mahar men fell a Sacrefise to their murceyless fury not many years Since—So much do the Maha, Souis, Ottoes and other neighbouring nations believe this fable that no Consideration is Suffecient to induce them to apporach the hill
24th August, Friday, 1804. It rained last night and continues this morning. We set out at our usual time and followed the route from last night to the start of a blue clay bluff about 180 or 190 feet high on the left side. These bluffs seem to have been on fire recently, and right now it’s too hot for a person to put their hand in the ground at any depth; there are great signs of coal. An enormous amount of cobalt or a crystallized substance that fits its description is on the face of the bluff. There are lots of berries that look like currants but are double the size, growing on a bush like a privet. They’re the size of a damson, deliciously flavored, and make delightful tarts. This fruit is now ripe. I took my servant and a French boy and went ashore, hunted two buck elks and a fawn, intercepted the boat, and had all the meat butchered and brought in by sunset. At that time, it started to rain heavily. Captain Lewis and I went out and got very wet; it was a cloudy, rainy night. While I was gone, the boat passed a small river called by the Indians White Stone River. This river is about 30 yards wide and flows through a plain and prairie all the way in a northerly direction from the mouth of this creek. In an immense plain, there is a high hill that looks conical in shape. The various nations of Indians in this area believe it to be the residence of devils, said to be in human form with remarkably large heads and about 18 inches tall. They are described as being very watchful and armed with sharp arrows that can kill from a great distance. They are said to kill anyone who is bold enough to try to approach the hill. Tradition has it that many Indians have suffered at the hands of these little people, including three Maha men who fell victim to their merciless fury not long ago. The Maha, Souis, Ottoes, and other neighboring nations believe this tale so strongly that no consideration is enough to persuade them to approach the hill.
[Lewis, August 24, 1804]
Friday, August 24th This day the Chronometer stoped again just after being wound up; I know not the cause, but fear it procedes from some defect which it is not in my power to remedy.-
Friday, August 24th This day the chronometer stopped again just after I wound it up; I don't know the cause, but I fear it might be due to some defect that I can't fix.
[Clark, August 24, 1804]
(1) About the center of this Sand Island the river of white Stone (as Called by Mr. Evins Kenvill R.) falls in on the Stard. Side it appear to be about 25 or 30 yards Wide; at the mouth of this river 10 Indians had latterly cross Supposed be be Soues, the part of a band which are at war with the Mahars, This Soues nation are divided into bands Som 100 to 500 men in a band at peace with eath other, ther Interest & prejudices different, for instance one band the most envetterate enimy of the mahars, all the other Bands in the greatest harmony with that nation and even go with thim to War, those Soues, follow the Buffalow, & Kill them on foot, they pack their Dogs, which carry ther Bedn.
(1) In the center of Sand Island, the River of White Stone (as Mr. Evins Kenvill R. calls it) flows in on the starboard side. It seems to be about 25 or 30 yards wide. Recently, 10 Indians crossed at the mouth of this river; they are believed to be Soues, part of a group that is at war with the Mahars. The Soues nation is divided into bands, each consisting of 100 to 500 men, and while they are generally at peace with each other, their interests and prejudices differ. For example, one band is the most bitter enemy of the Mahars, while all the other bands get along well with that nation and even go to war alongside them. The Soues follow the buffalo and hunt them on foot, packing their supplies on dogs that carry their bedding.
[Clark, August 25, 1804]
Augt. 25th Satturday 1804 This morning Capt Lewis & my Self G D. Sjt. Ouderway Shields J. Fields colter Bratten Cane Labeeche corp Wovington Frasure & York Set out to Visit this mountain of evel Spirits, we Set out from the mouth of the White Stone Creek, at 8 oClock, at 4 miles Cross the Creek in an open plain, at 7 ms. the dog gave out & we Sent him back to the Creek at 12 oClock we rose the hill Some time before we got to the hill we obsevd. great numbers of Birds hovering about the top of this Mound when I got on the top those Birds flw off. I discovered that they wer Cetechig a kind of flying ant which were in great numbers abought the top of this hill, those insects lit on our hats & necks, Several of them bit me verry Shart on the neck, near the top of this nole I observed three holes which I Supposed to be Prarie Wolves or Braroes, which are numerous in those Plains. this hill is about 70 foot high in an emince Prarie or leavel plain from the top I could not observe any woods except in the Missourie Points and a few Scattering trees on the three Rivers in view. i e the Soues River below, the River Jacque above & the one we have crossed from the top of this Mound we observed Several large gangus of Buffalow & Elk feeding upwards of 800 in number Capt Lewis being much fatigued and verry thursty obliged us to go to the neares water which we Could See, which was the W Stone Creek at right angles from the Course we came out, and we got water in three miles in the Creek above whre the beaver had darned it up after a Delay of about one hour & a half we Set out for our boat, Cross the Creek three times wast deep, passing down an ellgent bottom of about a mile in width bordered by a ridge of about 50 feet from the top of which it was leavel to the river, we proceeded on by a Circular Derection to the place we Crossed this Creek going out where we delayed for the men to rest themselves about 40 minits in a small grove here we got Great quantities of the best largest grapes I ever tasted, Some Blue Currents still on the bushes, and two kind of Plumbs, one the Common wild Plumb the other a large Yellow Plumb growing on a Small bush, this blumb is about double the Size of the Common and Deliscously flavoured—Those plains are leavel without much water and no timber all the timber on the Stone River would not thickly timber 100 acres of land—we returned to the boat at Sunset, my Servent nearly exosted with heat thurst and fatigue, he being fat and un accustomed to walk as fast as I went was the Cause—we Set fire to the Praries in two Places to let the Sons know we were on the river and as a Signal for them to Come to the river above, our Party in the Boat & one Perogue undr. the Comd of Sergt. Pryor answered us by firing a prarie near them. we proceeded on to the place we Camped last night, and as it began to rain and verry dark, we Concluded to Stay all night, our boys prepared us a Supper of jurked meet and two Prarie Larks (which are about the Size of a Pigeon and Peculier to this country) and on a Buffalow roabe we Slept verry well in the morning we proceeded on and joined the boat at 6 miles, they had camped & were Jurking an Elk & 5 Deer which R. Fields & Shannon had brough in. from the Mound to the Hill S. S. mo. of R. Soues S 70° E. to the opsd. Hills S. 45° E. and to the woods near River au Jacque is West
Aug 25th, Saturday, 1804 This morning, Captain Lewis and I, along with G D. Sergeant Ouderway, Shields, J. Fields, Colter, Bratten, Cane, Labeeche, Corporal Wovington, Frasure, and York, set out to visit this mountain of evil spirits. We left from the mouth of White Stone Creek at 8 o'clock. After 4 miles, we crossed the creek into an open plain. At 7 miles, the dog gave out, so we sent him back to the creek. Around 12 o'clock, we climbed the hill. Before reaching the top, we noticed many birds hovering around it, and when I reached the summit, the birds flew away. I discovered that they were Catechig, a type of flying ant, which were abundant at the top of this hill. These insects landed on our hats and necks, and several of them stung me painfully on the neck. Near the top of this knoll, I noticed three holes, which I assumed belonged to prairie wolves or badgers, both plentiful in these plains. This hill is about 70 feet high in an eminent prairie or level plain. From the top, I couldn't see any woods except for some in the Missouri points and a few scattered trees along the three rivers in view, namely the Sioux River below, the River Jacque above, and the one we crossed. From the top of this mound, we observed several large groups of buffalo and elk, numbering over 800. Captain Lewis, being very fatigued and thirsty, compelled us to head to the nearest water we could find, which was White Stone Creek, at a right angle from our route. We got water after three miles at the creek, above where the beaver had dammed it up. After a delay of about an hour and a half, we set out for our boat, crossing the creek three times in waist-deep water, passing through a beautiful bottom about a mile wide, bordered by a ridge about 50 feet high. From the top of the ridge, it was level down to the river. We continued in a circular direction to the spot where we had crossed the creek, where we paused for about 40 minutes to let the men rest in a small grove. Here, we found an abundance of the best and largest grapes I have ever tasted, some blue currants still on the bushes, and two types of plums: one, the common wild plum, and the other, a large yellow plum that grows on a small bush. This yellow plum is about double the size of the common one and is deliciously flavored. These plains are level, with little water and no timber; all the timber along the Stone River wouldn't cover 100 acres densely. We returned to the boat at sunset. My servant was nearly exhausted from the heat, thirst, and fatigue, as he was overweight and not used to walking as fast as I do. We set fire to the prairies in two places to signal the Sons that we were on the river and to alert them to come to the river above. Our party in the boat and one pirogue under the command of Sergeant Pryor responded by firing a prairie near them. We proceeded to the spot where we camped the previous night. As it began to rain and it got very dark, we decided to stay the night. Our boys prepared a supper of jerked meat and two prairie larks (which are about the size of a pigeon and unique to this area), and we slept well on a buffalo robe. In the morning, we continued on and joined the boat after 6 miles. They had camped and were jerking an elk and 5 deer that R. Fields and Shannon had brought in. From the mound to the hill, S.S. mo. of R. Soues S 70° E. to the opposite hills S. 45° E. and to the woods near River au Jacque is West.
[Clark, August 25, 1804]
Augt. 25th Satturday wind S E The Boat under Serjt Pryor after drying some goods which got wet in the french Perogue & jurking the meet killed yesterday Set out at 12 oClock and proceeded on Six miles and Camped on the L. S. passed a Bluff of blue earth at 3 miles and a large Sand Island in a bend to the S. S. at 5 miles, R Fields brought in 5 Deer, G Shannon an Elk this eveng. rain at 3 oClock Murcky. 86 abo 0,
Aug. 25th, Saturday, wind SE. The boat, under Sergeant Pryor, after drying some goods that got wet in the French canoe and jerking the meat we killed yesterday, set out at 12 o'clock and traveled six miles, camping on the left side. We passed a bluff of blue earth at three miles and a large sand island in a bend to the right side at five miles. R. Fields brought in five deer, and G. Shannon brought in an elk this evening. It rained at 3 o'clock; it was murky, around 86 degrees.
[Clark, August 25, 1804]
25th August Satturday 1804 a Cloudy morning Capt Lewis & my Self Concluded to go and See the Mound which was viewed with Such turrow by all the different Nation in this quarter, we Selected Shields J. Fields, W Bratten, Sergt. Ordway, J Colter, Can, and Corp Worbington & Frasure, also G. Drewyer and droped down to the mouth of White Stone River where we left the Perogue with two men and at 200 yards we assended a riseing ground of about Sixty feet, from the top of this High land the Countrey is leavel & open as far as Can be Seen, except Some few rises at a Great Distance, and the Mound which the Indians Call Mountain of little people or Spirits this mound appears of a Conic form & is N. 20° W. from the mouth of the Creek, we left the river at 8 oClock, at 4 miles we Crossed the Creek 23 yards wide in an extensive Valley and continued on at two miles further our Dog was So Heeted & fatigued we was obliged Send him back to the Creek, at 12 oClock we arrived at the hill Capt Lewis much fatigued from heat the day it being verry hot & he being in a debilitated State from the Precautions he was obliged to take to provent the affects of the Cobalt, & Mini. Substance which had like to have poisoned him two days ago, his want of water, and Several of the men complaining of Great thirst, deturmined us to make for the first water which was the Creek in a bend N. E. from the mound about 3 miles—aftr a Delay of about 1 hour & a half to recrut our party we Set out on our return down the Creek thro the bottom of about 1 mile in width, Crossed the Creek 3 times to the place we first Struck it, where we geathered Some delisious froot Such as Grapes Plumbs, & Blue Currents after a Delay of an hour we Set out on our back trail & arrived at the Perogue at Sun Set we proceedd on to the place we Campd. last night and Stayed all night.
August 25th, Saturday, 1804 - It was a cloudy morning. Captain Lewis and I decided to go see the mound that was so talked about by all the different nations in this area. We chose J. Shields, W. Bratten, Sergeant Ordway, J. Colter, Can, Corporal Worbington, Frasure, and G. Drewyer to join us. We traveled down to the mouth of White Stone River, where we left the canoe with two men. After 200 yards, we ascended a rise of about sixty feet. From the top of this high ground, the land appeared flat and open as far as the eye could see, except for a few distant rises and the mound that the Indians call the Mountain of Little People or Spirits. This mound has a conical shape and is located 20° north-west from the creek's mouth. We left the river at 8 o'clock, crossed the creek, which is 23 yards wide, after four miles in an extensive valley, and continued on. Two miles further, our dog was overheated and exhausted, so we had to send him back to the creek. At noon, we reached the hill, with Captain Lewis feeling very fatigued from the heat as it was a really hot day. He was in a weakened state from the precautions he had to take to prevent the effects of cobalt and mineral substances that almost poisoned him two days ago. His lack of water and several men complaining of extreme thirst pushed us to make for the first water we could find, which was the creek about three miles northeast from the mound. After delaying for about an hour and a half to regroup our party, we set out on our return down the creek through a bottom that was about a mile wide, crossing it three times to get back to where we initially struck the creek. There, we gathered some delicious fruit like grapes, plums, and blueberries. After an hour's delay, we started back on our trail and reached the canoe at sunset. We then proceeded to the place where we camped last night and stayed there overnight.
This Mound is Situated on an elivated plain in a leavel and extensive prarie, bearing N. 20° W. from the mouth of White Stone Creek Nine Miles, the base of the Mound is a regular parallelagram the long Side of which is about 300 yards in length the Shorter 60 or 70 yards—from the longer Side of the Base it rises from the North & South with a Steep assent to the hight of 65 or 70 feet, leaveing a leavel Plain on the top of 12 feet in width & 90 in length. the North & South part of this mound is joins by two regular rises, each in Oval forms of half its hight forming three regular rises from the Plain the assent of each elivated part is as Suden as the principal mound at the narrower Sides of its Bass
This mound is located on an elevated plain in a flat and wide prairie, about 9 miles N. 20° W. from the mouth of White Stone Creek. The base of the mound is a regular parallelogram, with the longer side measuring about 300 yards and the shorter side 60 to 70 yards. From the longer side of the base, it rises steeply from the north and south to a height of 65 or 70 feet, leaving a flat area on top that is 12 feet wide and 90 feet long. The north and south sections of this mound are connected by two regular rises, each in oval shapes and half the height of the main mound, creating three distinct rises from the plain. The ascent of each elevated part is as steep as the principal mound at the narrower sides of its base.
The reagular form of this hill would in Some measure justify a belief that it owed its Orrigin to the hand of man; but as the earth and loos pebbles and other Substances of which it was Composed, bare an exact resemblance to the Steep Ground which border on the Creek in its neighbourhood we Concluded it was most probably the production of nature-.
The regular shape of this hill might make one think it was created by humans; however, since the soil, loose pebbles, and other materials it consists of closely resemble the steep terrain that borders the nearby creek, we concluded that it was most likely formed by nature.
The only remarkable Charactoristic of this hill admiting it to be a naturial production is that it is insulated or Seperated a considerable distance from any other, which is verry unusial in the naturul order or disposition of the hills.
The only notable feature of this hill that allows it to be considered a natural formation is that it is isolated or separated by a significant distance from any others, which is very unusual in the natural arrangement of hills.
The Surrounding Plains is open void of Timber and leavel to a great extent; hence the wind from whatever quarter it may blow, drives with unusial force over the naked Plains and against this hill; the insects of various kinds are thus involuntaryly driven to the mound by the force of the wind, or fly to its Leward Side for Shelter; the Small Birds whoes food they are, Consequently resort in great numbers to this place in Surch of them; Perticularly the Small brown Martin of which we saw a vast number hovering on the Leward Side of the hill, when we approached it in the act of Catching those insects; they were So gentle that they did not quit the place untill we had arrivd. within a fiew feet of them-
The surrounding plains are mostly open and free of trees and vegetation; therefore, the wind, no matter which direction it blows from, hits the bare plains and this hill with unusual force. Insects of various kinds are involuntarily pushed toward the mound by the wind or fly to its leeward side for shelter. The small birds that feed on them then flock to this area in large numbers searching for food. Particularly, we saw a vast number of small brown martins hovering on the leeward side of the hill, catching those insects. They were so gentle that they didn’t leave until we were just a few feet away from them.
One evidence which the Inds Give for believeing this place to be the residence of Some unusial Spirits is that they frequently discover a large assemblage of Birds about this mound—is in my opinion a Suffient proof to produce in the Savage mind a Confident belief of all the properties which they ascribe it.
One piece of evidence that the Indians give for believing this place to be the home of some unusual spirits is that they often see a large gathering of birds around this mound—which, in my opinion, is enough proof to instill in the minds of the Indigenous people a strong belief in all the qualities they attribute to it.
from the top of this Mound we beheld a most butifull landscape; Numerous herds of buffalow were Seen feeding in various directions, the Plain to North N. W & N E extends without interuption as far as Can be Seen From the Mound to the mouth of Stone River is S. 20° E 9 miles.
From the top of this mound, we saw a beautiful landscape; many herds of buffalo were grazing in different directions. The plain to the north, northwest, and northeast stretches uninterrupted as far as the eye can see. From the mound to the mouth of Stone River is 9 miles at a direction of S. 20° E.
to the woods near the mouth of River Jacque is West
to the woods near the mouth of River Jacque is West
to the High land near the mouth of Souis River is S. 70 E.
to the highland near the mouth of the Souis River is S. 70 E.
to the high land opposit Side or near the Maha Town is S. 45 E.
to the high land on the opposite side or near Maha Town is S. 45 E.
Some high lands to be Seen from the mound at a Great distance to the N. E Some Nearer to the N W. no woods except on the Missouris Points
Some highlands can be seen from the mound at a great distance to the northeast. Some are closer to the northwest, with no woods except on the Missouri points.
if all the timber which is on the Stone Creek was on 100 acres it would not be thickly timbered, the Soil of those Plains are delightfull Great numbers of Birds are Seen in those Plains, Such as black bird, Ren or Prarie burd a kind of larke about the Sise of a Partridge with a Short tail &c. &.
if all the timber on Stone Creek were on 100 acres, it wouldn’t be densely forested. The soil in those plains is delightful. A great many birds can be seen in those plains, such as blackbirds, wrens, and prairie birds, a type of lark about the size of a partridge with a short tail, etc.
25th Augt the Boat under the Comd. of Sergt. Pryor proceeded on in our absence (after jurking the Elk I Killed yesterday) Six Miles and Camped on the Larboard Side R Fields brought in five Deer. George Shannon Killed an Elk Buck Some rain this evening.
25th Aug: The boat, led by Sgt. Pryor, moved on without us (after dragging the elk I killed yesterday) six miles and camped on the left side. R. Fields brought in five deer. George Shannon killed an elk buck. It rained a bit this evening.
we Set the Praries on fire as a Signal for the Soues to Come to the river.
we set the prairies on fire as a signal for the Sioux to come to the river.
[Lewis, August 25, 1804]
August the 25th on our return from the mound of sperits saw the first bats that we had observed since we began to ascend the Missouri
August 25th, on our way back from the mound of spirits, we saw the first bats we had noticed since we started our journey up the Missouri.
also saw on our return on the Creek that passes this mound about 2 M. distant S. a bird of heron kind as large as the Cormorant short tale long leggs of a colour on the back and wings deep copper brown with a shade of red. we could not kill it therefore I can not describe it more particularly.
also saw on our return along the creek that runs past this mound about 2 miles south, a bird similar to a heron, as large as a cormorant, with a short tail and long legs. Its back and wings were a deep copper brown with a hint of red. We couldn't catch it, so I can't describe it in more detail.
[Clark, August 26, 1804]
26th August Sunday 1804 arrived at the boat at 9 oClock A.M. Set out at 10 oClock after Jurking the meet & Cutting the Elk Skins for a Toe Roap and proceeded, leaveing G. Drewyer & Shannon to hunt the horses, the river verry full of Sand bars and Wide Course S. 66° W. 2 mes. to a Sand bar Makeing out from the S. S. N. 82° W. 7 mes. to a pt. of willows S S passd. a Island & large Sand bars on both sides river wide and a Clift of White earth on the L. S of 2 ms. in length to a point of Willows on the S. S opposit Arch Creek above the mouth of this Creek a Chief of the Maha nataton displeased with the Conduct of Black bird the main Chief came to this place and built a Town which was called by his name Petite Arch (or Little Bow) this Town was at the foot of a Hill in a handsom Plain fronting the river and Contained about 100 huts & 200 men, the remains of this tribe Since the Death of Petite arch has joined the remaining part of the nation This Creek is Small—we apt. Pat Gass Sergeant Vice Floyd Dicesed, Geathered great quantites of Grapes & three Kinds of Plumbs, one yellow round, & one ovel, & the Common wild Plumb. Misquetors bad to night—I have apt. you
26th August, Sunday, 1804: We arrived at the boat at 9:00 AM and set out at 10:00 after gathering the meat and cutting the elk skins for a toe rope. We left G. Drewyer and Shannon to find the horses. The river was very full of sandbars, and we went a wide course of S. 66° W. for 2 miles to a sandbar. We then traveled from S. S. N. 82° W. for 7 miles to a point of willows on the S. S. We passed an island and large sandbars on both sides of the river, which was wide, and encountered a cliff of white earth on the left side, about 2 miles long, to a point of willows on the S. S., opposite Arch Creek. Above the mouth of this creek, a chief of the Mahas, displeased with the behavior of Blackbird, the main chief, came to this place and built a town named after himself, Petite Arch (or Little Bow). This town was at the foot of a hill in a beautiful plain facing the river and contained about 100 huts and 200 men, the remains of this tribe. Since the death of Petite Arch, they have joined the remaining part of the nation. This creek is small—we appointed Pat Gass Sergeant in place of Floyd, who has passed away. We gathered large quantities of grapes and three types of plums: one yellow and round, one oval, and the common wild plum. Mosquitoes were bad tonight—I have appointed you.
[Clark, August 26, 1804]
26th August Sunday 1804 (Joined the Boat at 9 oClock A M) after Jurking the meat Killed yesterday and prepareing the Elk Skins for a Toe Roape we Set out Leaveing Drewyer & Shannon to hunt the horses which was lost with directions to follow us Keeping on the high lands.
26th August Sunday 1804 (Joined the Boat at 9 o'clock AM) after jerking the meat killed yesterday and preparing the elk skins for a tow rope, we set out, leaving Drewyer and Shannon to hunt for the lost horses with instructions to follow us while staying on the high ground.
proceeded on passed a Clift of White & Blue or Dark earths of 2 miles in extent on the L. S. and Camped on a Sand bar opposed the old village Called Pitite Arc a Small Creek falls into the river 15 yds wide below the Village on the Same Side L. S this village was built by a Indian Chief of the Maha nation by the name of Pitite arc (or little Bow) displeasd. with the Great Chief of that nation (Black Bird) Seperated with 200 men and built a village at this place. after his death the two villages joined, apt. Pat Gass a Sergt. Vice Floyd Deceased
traveled past a cliff with white and blue or dark earths that extended for about 2 miles on the left side and camped on a sandbar across from the old village called Pitite Arc. A small creek, about 15 yards wide, flows into the river below the village on the same side. This village was established by an Indian chief from the Maha nation named Pitite Arc (or Little Bow), who was unhappy with the great chief of that nation, Black Bird. He split off with 200 men and built a village in this location. After his death, the two villages merged. Captain Pat Gass, a sergeant, took over for the deceased Floyd.
Great qts. of Grape, Plumbs of three Kinds 2 yellow and large of one of which is long and a 3rd kind round & red all well flavored. perticularly the yellow Sort.
Great quantities of grapes, plums of three kinds: two yellow and large, one of which is long, and a third kind that is round and red, all well-flavored, particularly the yellow sort.
[Lewis, August 26, 1804]
Orders August 26th 1804. The commanding officers have thought it proper to appoint Patric Gass, a Sergeant in the corps of volunteers for North Western Discovery, he is therefore to be obeyed and respected accordingly.
Orders August 26th 1804. The commanding officers have decided to appoint Patric Gass, a Sergeant in the corps of volunteers for North Western Discovery; therefore, he is to be obeyed and respected accordingly.
Sergt. Gass is directed to take charge of the late Sergt. Floyd's mess, and immediately to enter on the discharge of such other duties, as by their previous orders been prescribed for the government of the Sergeants of this corps.
Sergt. Gass is assigned to take over the late Sergt. Floyd's mess and to start performing any other duties as outlined in their previous orders for managing the Sergeants of this corps.
The Commanding officers have every reason to hope from the previous faithfull services of Sergt. Gass, that this expression of their approbation will be still further confirmed, by his vigilent attention in future to his duties as a Sergeant. the Commanding officers are still further confirmed in the high opinion they had previously formed of the capacity, deligence and integrety of Sergt. Gass, from the wish expresssed by a large majority of his comrades for his appointment as Sergeant.
The commanding officers have every reason to be confident based on Sergeant Gass's past faithful service that this acknowledgment will be further reinforced by his vigilant attention to his duties as a Sergeant in the future. The commanding officers are even more strengthened in their high opinion of Sergeant Gass's skills, diligence, and integrity by the strong desire expressed by a large majority of his comrades for his appointment as Sergeant.
Meriwether Lewis Capt. 1st U.S. Regt Infty. Wm Clark Cpt &.
Meriwether Lewis, Captain of the 1st U.S. Regiment of Infantry. William Clark, Captain &.
[Clark, August 27, 1804]
27th August Monday, this morning the Morning Star was observed to be very large, G Drewyer Came up and informed that he Could neither find Shannon or the horses, he had walked all night—we Sent Shields & J. Fields back to look for Shannon & the horses and to Come up with us on the river above at the grand Callemet or River KaCure & we Set out under a Gentle Breeze from the S. E. proceeded on passed a Bluff at 7 mes. Several mile in extent of white Clay Marl or Chalk, under this bank we discovered Large Stone resembling lime incrusted with a Substanc like Glass which I take to be Cabolt, also ore, three mes above this Bluff we Set the Prarie on fire, to let the Soues Know, we wished to see them at two oClock an Indian Swam to the Perogue, we landed & two other Came they were boys, they informed us that the Souex were Camped near, on the R Jacke one Maha boy informed us his nation was gorn to make a peace with the Pania's we Send Sjt. Pryor & a frenchman with the Interptr. Mr. Durion to the Camp to See & invite their Great Chiefs to Come and Counsel with us at the Callemet Bluffs ____ Mile abov on L. S.—we proceed on 11/2 miles farther & Camped S S.
27th August, Monday. This morning, the Morning Star looked really big. G. Drewyer came up and said he couldn’t find Shannon or the horses; he had walked all night. We sent Shields and J. Fields back to look for Shannon and the horses and to catch up with us on the river above at the Grand Callemet or River KaCure. We set out with a gentle breeze from the southeast and passed a bluff that was seven miles long, made of white clay marl or chalk. Under this bank, we found large stones that looked like lime, coated with a glassy substance that I think is cobalt, along with ore. Three miles above this bluff, we set the prairie on fire to let the Sioux know we wanted to see them. At two o'clock, an Indian swam to the pirogue. We landed, and two other boys came. They told us that the Sioux were camped nearby, on the R. Jacke. One Maha boy informed us that his nation was about to make peace with the Pania. We sent Sjt. Pryor and a Frenchman with the interpreter, Mr. Durion, to the camp to see and invite their great chiefs to come and talk with us at the Callemet Bluffs, a mile above on the left side. We went on another 1.5 miles and camped on the south side.
[Clark, August 27, 1804]
27th August Monday 1804 This morning the Star Calld. the morning Star much larger than Common G. Drewyer Came up and informed that he Could neither find Shannon nor horses, we Sent Shields & J Fields, back to hunt Shannon & the horses, with derections to Keep on the Hills to the Grand Calumet above on River Ka cure.
27th August Monday 1804 This morning the Star called the Morning Star was much larger than usual. G. Drewyer came up and informed us that he couldn't find Shannon or the horses. We sent Shields and J. Fields back to look for Shannon and the horses, with instructions to stay on the hills heading towards the Grand Calumet above on the River Kakure.
We Set Sail under a gentle Breeze from the S. E. at 7 miles passed a white Clay marl or Chalk Bluff under this Bluff is extensive I discovered large Stone much like lime incrusted with a Clear Substance which I believe to be Cabalt, also ore is imbeded in the Dark earth, resembling Slate much Softer—above this Bluff we had the Prarie Set on fire to let the Souix See that we were on the river, & as a Signal for them to Come to it.
We set sail with a light breeze from the southeast, traveling 7 miles past a white clay marl or chalk bluff. Beneath this bluff, I found large stones that looked like limestone coated with a clear substance, which I think might be cobalt. There’s also ore embedded in the dark earth that looks like slate but is much softer. Above this bluff, we set the prairie on fire to let the Sioux see that we were on the river and as a signal for them to come to us.
at 2 oClock passed the mouth of River Jacque, or Yeankton one Indian at the mouth of this river Swam to the Perogue, we landed and two others came to us, those Inds. informed that a large Camp of Soues, were on R. Jacque near the mouth. we Sent Sergt. Pryor & a Frenchman with Mr. Durioin the Souls interpeter to the Camp with derections to invite the Principal Chiefs to councel with us at a Bluff above Called the Calumet—two of those Indians accompanied them and the third continued in the Boat Showing an inclination to Continue, this boy is a Mahar, and inform that his nation, were gorn to the Parnias to make a peace with that nation.
At 2 o'clock, we passed the mouth of the River Jacque, or Yeankton. An Indian at the river's mouth swam over to our boat. We landed, and two others joined us. These Indians told us that a large camp of Soues was near the mouth of the River Jacque. We sent Sergeant Pryor and a Frenchman, along with Mr. Durioin, the Soues interpreter, to the camp with directions to invite the principal chiefs to meet with us at a bluff above called the Calumet. Two of these Indians went with them, while the third stayed in the boat, showing an interest in staying with us. This boy is a Mahar and informed us that his nation had gone to the Parnias to negotiate peace with that nation.
We proceeded on about one and a half miles and in Camped on a bar makeing out from the S. S. the wind blew hard from the South. a Cool & Pleasent evening, The river has fallen verry Slowly and is now low.
We went about one and a half miles and set up camp on a sandbar extending from the south side. The wind was blowing strongly from the south. It was a cool and pleasant evening. The river has fallen very slowly and is now low.
[Lewis, August 27, 1804]
Monday August 27th On the Stard. shore, opposite to the lower point, or commencement of the white Calk Bluff-
Monday, August 27th On the Stard. shore, opposite to the lower point or beginning of the white Calk Bluff-
[Clark, August 28, 1804]
28th August Tuesday, 1804 The wind blew hard last night one Indian Stayed with us all night, Set out under a Stiff Breeze from S and proceedd on passe a Willow Island at two miles Several Sand bars the river here is wide & Shallow full of Sand bars—The High land appear to be getting nearer to each other passed a Bluff containing Some white earth on the L. S. below this Bluff for Some mile the Plain rises gradually to the hight of the Bluff which is 70 or 80 foot, here the Indian boy left us for his Camp—Capt Lewis & my Self much indisposed- I think from the Homney we Substitute in place of bread, (or Plumbs) we proceeded on about 3 Miles higher and Camped below the Calumet Bluff in a Plain on the L. S. to waite the return of Sergt Pryor & Mr. Durioun, who we Sent to the Soues Camp from the mouth of R. Jacque, before we landed the French rund a Snag thro their Perogue, and like to have Sunk, we had her on loaded, from an examonation found that this Perogue was unfit for Service, & Deturmined to Send her back by the Party intended to Send back and take their Perogue, accordingly Changed the loads, Some of the loading was wet wind blows hard from the South. J Shields & J. Fields joined they did not overtake Shannon with the horses who is a head of us.
28th August Tuesday, 1804 The wind blew hard last night and one Indian stayed with us all night. We set out under a strong breeze from the south and continued on, passing Willow Island at two miles. There were several sandbars; the river here is wide and shallow, full of sandbars. The high land seems to be getting closer together. We passed a bluff containing some white earth on the left side. Below this bluff, for some miles, the plain rises gradually to the height of the bluff, which is 70 or 80 feet. Here the Indian boy left us for his camp. Captain Lewis and I were feeling quite unwell, I think from the hominy we substitute for bread (or plums). We continued on about three miles further and camped below the Calumet Bluff in a plain on the left side, waiting for the return of Sergeant Pryor and Mr. Durioun, who we sent to the Soues camp from the mouth of the River Jacque. Before we landed, the French ran a snag through their perogue and nearly sank it. We unloaded it; after examining it, we found that this perogue was not fit for service and decided to send it back with the party intended to take it back and take their perogue instead. We accordingly changed the loads; some of the cargo got wet because the wind is blowing hard from the south. J. Shields and J. Fields joined us, but they didn’t catch up with Shannon, who is ahead of us with the horses.
[Clark, August 28, 1804]
28th August Tuesday 1804. Set out under a Stiff Breeze from the South and proceeded on passd. a willow Island at 2 miles Several Sand bars, the river wide & Shallow at 4 Miles passed a Short White Bluff of about 70 or 80 feet high, below this Bluff the Prarie rises gradually from the water back to the Hight of the Bluff which is on the Larboard Side here the Indian who was in the boat returned to the Sisouex Camp on the R Jacque, Capt. Lewis & my Self much indisposed owing to Some Cause for which we cannot account one of the Perogues run a Snag thro her and was near Sinking in the opinions of the Crew—we came too below the Calumet Bluff and formed a camp in a Butifull Plain near the foot of the high land which rises with a gradual assent near this Bluff I observe more timber in the valey & on the points than usial—The Perogue which was injurd I had unloaded and the Loading put into the other Perogue which we intended to Send back, the Perogue & changed the Crew after examoning her & finding that She was unfit for Service deturmined to Send her back by the party Some load which was in the Perogue much inju'd
August 28, Tuesday, 1804. We set out with a strong breeze coming from the south and passed a willow island after 2 miles. There were several sandbars, and the river was wide and shallow at 4 miles. We passed a short white bluff that was about 70 or 80 feet high. Below this bluff, the prairie gradually rises from the water back to the height of the bluff on the left side. Here, the Indian who was in the boat returned to the Sioux camp on the R. Jacques. Captain Lewis and I felt quite unwell for reasons we couldn't explain. One of the perogues hit a snag and nearly sank, according to the crew's opinion. We stopped below Calumet Bluff and set up camp in a beautiful plain near the foot of the high land that slopes gently near this bluff. I noticed more timber in the valley and on the points than usual. I unloaded the damaged perogue and transferred the load to the other perogue we intended to send back. After examining it and finding it unfit for service, we decided to send it back with some of the load that was heavily damaged.
The wind blew hard this after noon from the South—J. Shields & J. Fields who was Sent back to look for Shannon & the Horses joined us & informed that Shannon had the horses a head and that they Could not over take him This man not being a first rate Hunter, we deturmined to Send one man in pursute of him with Some Provisions.-
The wind blew hard this afternoon from the south—J. Shields and J. Fields, who were sent back to look for Shannon and the horses, joined us and informed us that Shannon had the horses ahead and that they couldn't catch up with him. This man wasn't a top-notch hunter, so we decided to send one person after him with some supplies.
[Lewis, August 28, 1804]
Orders August 28th 1804. The commanding officers direct that the two messes who form the crews of the perogues shall scelect each one man from their mess for the purpose of cooking and that these cooks as well as those previously appointed to the messes of the Barge crew, shall in future be exempted from mounting guard, or any detail for that duty; they are therefore no longer to be held on the royaster.
Orders August 28th, 1804. The commanding officers direct that the two messes forming the crews of the perogues will each select one person from their mess for cooking duties. These cooks, along with those already assigned to the messes of the Barge crew, will henceforth be exempt from guard duty or any related details; they will no longer be included on the roster.
M. Lewis Capt. 1st US. Regt. Infty. Win Clark Cpt. &.
M. Lewis Capt. 1st US. Regt. Infty. Win Clark Cpt. &.
[Clark, August 29, 1804]
29th August Wednesday 1804—rained last night and Some this morning verry cloudy Set Some men to work to make a Toe rope of Elk Skin, and my Self to write, Sent one man to pursue Shannon a head with Some provisions, I am much engaged writeing a Speech at 4 oClock Sergt. Pryor & Mr. Durion the Soues interpeter with about 70 Soues arrived on the opposit Side of the river we Sent over for them, who came over Mr. D. & his Son who was tradeing with the Indians Came over Mr. Durion informed that three Chiefs were of the Party, we Sent over Serjt. Pryor with young Mr. Durion, Six Kettles for the Indians to Cook the meat they Killed on the way from their Camp (2 Elk & 6 Deer) a bout a bucket of Corn & 2 twists of Tobacco to Smoke intending to Speak to them tomorrow—G. Drewyer Killed a Deer-. Sergt. Pryor informs that when he approached the Indian Camp they Came to meet them Supposeing Cap Lewis or my Self to be of the party intending to take us in a roabe to their Camp-he approached the Camp which was handsum made of Buffalow Skins Painted different Colour, their Camps formed of a Conic form Containing about 12 or 15 persons each and 40 in number, on the River Jacque of 100 yds wide & Deep Containing but little wood, They had a fat dog Cooked as a feest; for them, and a Snug aptmt for them to lodge on their march they passed thro plains Covd. with game &. &. &.
29th August, Wednesday, 1804—It rained last night and a bit this morning. It’s very cloudy. I had some men work on making a tow rope from elk skin, while I focused on writing. I sent one man ahead to catch up with Shannon and take him some supplies. I’m busy writing a speech. At 4 o'clock, Sergeant Pryor and Mr. Durion, the Soues interpreter, arrived on the opposite side of the river with about 70 Soues. We sent over for them. Mr. Durion and his son, who were trading with the Indians, came over. Mr. Durion informed us that three chiefs were part of the group. We sent over Sergeant Pryor along with young Mr. Durion, six kettles for the Indians to cook the meat they killed on the way from their camp (2 elk & 6 deer), about a bucket of corn, and 2 twists of tobacco to smoke, intending to speak to them tomorrow. G. Drewyer killed a deer. Sergeant Pryor reported that when he approached the Indian camp, they came out to meet them, thinking that Captain Lewis or I was part of their group, intending to take us to their camp. He approached the camp, which was nicely made of buffalo skins painted in different colors. Their camps were conically shaped, each containing about 12 to 15 people, with 40 in total. The River Jacques is 100 yards wide and deep, with very little wood nearby. They had a fat dog cooked as a feast for them, and a comfortable setup for them to rest on their march, as they passed through plains covered with game.
[Clark, August 29, 1804]
29th August Wednesday 1804 Some rain last night & this morning, Sent on Colter with Provisions in pursute of Shannon, had a Toe roap made of Elk Skin, I am much engaged reriteing—at 4 oClock P M. Sergt. Pryor & Mr. Dorion with 5 Chiefs and about 70 men &c. arrived on the opposite Side we Sent over a Perogue & Mr. Dorrion & his Son who was tradeing with the Indians Came over with Serjt Pryer, and informed us that the Chiefs were there we Sent Serjt. Pryor & yound Mr. Dorion with Som Tobacco, Corn & a few Kitties for them to Cook in, with directions to inform the Chiefs that we would Speek to them tomorrow. Those Indians brought with them for their own use 2 Elk & 6 Deer which the young men Killed on the way from their Camp 12 miles distant.
29th August Wednesday 1804 Some rain last night and this morning. I sent Colter with provisions in pursuit of Shannon. We made a toe rope out of elk skin. I am busy rewriting—at 4:00 PM, Sergeant Pryor and Mr. Dorion arrived with 5 chiefs and about 70 men on the opposite side. We sent over a canoe, and Mr. Dorion and his son, who was trading with the Indians, came over with Sergeant Pryor and told us that the chiefs were there. We sent Sergeant Pryor and young Mr. Dorion with some tobacco, corn, and a few kettles for them to cook in, with instructions to inform the chiefs that we would speak to them tomorrow. Those Indians brought with them 2 elk and 6 deer that the young men killed on the way from their camp, which was 12 miles away.
Serjt. Pryor informs me that when Came near the Indian Camp they were met by men with a Buffalow roabe to Carry them, Mr. Dorion informed "they were not the Owners of the Boats & did not wish to be Carried"- the Sceouex Camps are handson of a Conic form Covered with Buffalow Roabs Painted different Colours and all Compact & hand Somly arranged, covered all round an orpen part in the Center for the fire, with Buffalow roabs each Lodg has a place for Cooking detached, the lodges contain 10 to 15 persons—a Fat Dog was presented as a mark of their Great respect for the party of which they partook hartily and thought it good & well flavored
Sergeant Pryor tells me that when they got close to the Indian camp, they were met by men with a buffalo robe to carry them. Mr. Dorion said, "They aren’t the owners of the boats and don’t want to be carried." The Sioux camps are shaped like cones, covered with buffalo robes painted in different colors and all neatly arranged. There’s an open area in the center for a fire, with buffalo robes around it. Each lodge has a separate area for cooking, and the lodges hold about 10 to 15 people. A fat dog was given to them as a sign of great respect, and they enjoyed it, finding it tasty and well-flavored.
The River Jacque is Deep & is navagable for Perogues a long distance up at the mouth it is Shallow & narrow but above it is 80 or 90 yards wide passing thro rich Praries with but little timber this river passes the Souex River and heads with the St Peters and a branch of Red river which which falls into Lake Winepik to the North
The River Jacque is deep and navigable for canoes a long way. At the mouth, it is shallow and narrow, but further up, it is 80 or 90 yards wide, flowing through rich prairies with little timber. This river connects with the Souex River and branches off into the St. Peters and a part of the Red River, which flows into Lake Winepik to the north.
[Clark, August 30, 1804]
30th August Thursday 1804 A Foggeie morning I am much engagd. after Brackfast we sent Mr. Doroun in a Perogue to the other Side i'e L S. for the Chiefs and warriers of the Soues, he returned at 10 oClock with the Chiefs, at 12 oClock I finished and we delivered a Speech to the Indians expressive of the wishes of our government and explaining of what would be good for themselves, after delivering the Speech we made one grand Chief 1 2d Cheif and three third Chiefs and deliverd. to each a few articles and a Small present to the whole the grand Chief a Parole, Some wampom & a flag in addition to his present, they with Drew and we retired to dinner, Mr. Durions Sun much displeased that he could not dine with Cap Lewis and my Self—the number of Soues present is about 70 men—Dressed in Buffalow roabes a fiew fusees, Bows and arrows, and verry much deckerated with porcupine quills, a Society of which only four remains is present, this Society has made a vow never to giv back let what will happen, out of 22 only 4 remains, those are Stout likely men who Stay by them Selves, fond of mirth and assume a degree of Superiority-, the air gun astonished them verry much after night a circle was forrm around 3 fires and those Indians danced untill late, the Chiefs looked on with great dignity much pleased with what they had, we retired late and went to bead. wind hard from the South.
30th August, Thursday 1804 It was a foggy morning, and I was very busy. After breakfast, we sent Mr. Doroun in a canoe to the other side of the river for the chiefs and warriors of the Soues. He returned at 10 o'clock with the chiefs. At 12 o'clock, I finished up and we delivered a speech to the Indians expressing our government's wishes and explaining what would be beneficial for them. After giving the speech, we appointed one grand chief, one second chief, and three third chiefs, and we gave each a few items along with a small gift for the whole group. The grand chief received a medal, some wampum, and a flag in addition to his present. After that, they withdrew, and we went to dinner. Mr. Durion’s son was very upset that he could not have dinner with Captain Lewis and me. There were about 70 Soues present, dressed in buffalo robes, carrying a few guns, bows, and arrows, and they were very much decorated with porcupine quills. A society that only four members remain was present; this society has vowed never to give up, no matter what happens. Out of 22, only four remain, and they are strong, capable men who stick together, fond of fun, and carry a sense of superiority. The air gun astonished them greatly. After nightfall, a circle was formed around three fires, and those Indians danced late into the night. The chiefs watched with great dignity, pleased with what they had received. We retired late and went to bed. The wind was strong from the south.
[Clark, August 30, 1804]
30th of August Thursday 1804 a verry thick fog this morning after Prepareing Some presents for the Chiefs which we intended make by giving Meadals, and finishing a Speech what we intend'd to give them, we Sent Mr. Dorion in a Perogue for the Chiefs & warreirs to a Council under an Oak tree near wher we had a flag flying on a high flag Staff at 12 OClock we met and Cap L. Delivered the Speach & thin made one great Chiff by giving him a meadal & Some Cloathes one 2d. Chief & three third Chiefs in the Same way, They recvd. those thing with the goods and tobacco with pleasure To the Grand Chief we gave a Flag and the parole & wampom with a hat & Chiefs Coat, we Smoked out of the pipe of peace, & the Chiefs retired to a Bourey made of bushes by their young men to Divide their presents and Smoke eate and Council Capt Lewis & my Self retired to dinner and Consult about other measures—Mr. Daurion Jr. much displeased that we did not invite him to dine with us (which he was Sorry for after wards)—The Souix is a Stout bold looking people, (the young men hand Som) & well made, the greater part of them make use of Bows & arrows, Some fiew fusees I observe among them, not with Standing they live by the Bow & arrow, they do not Shoot So well as the Northern Indians the Warriers are Verry much deckerated with Paint Porcupin quils & feathers, large leagins & mockersons, all with buffalow roabs of Different Colours. the Squars wore Peticoats & and a white Buffalow roabes with the black hair turned back over their necks & Sholders
30th of August, Thursday, 1804: It was a very thick fog this morning. After preparing some gifts for the Chiefs, which included medals, and finalizing a speech we intended to deliver, we sent Mr. Dorion in a canoe for the Chiefs and warriors to hold a council under an oak tree near where we had a flag flying on a tall flagpole. At 12 o'clock, we gathered, and Captain Lewis delivered the speech. Then we made a significant gesture by giving him a medal and some clothes, as well as offering the same to a second Chief and three third Chiefs. They received these items, along with goods and tobacco, with pleasure. To the Grand Chief, we presented a flag, a verbal message, wampum, a hat, and a Chiefs coat. We smoked from the peace pipe, and then the Chiefs retreated to a shelter made of bushes by their young men to divide their gifts, eat, smoke, and discuss matters. Captain Lewis and I went off to have dinner and talk about other plans. Mr. Daurion Jr. was quite upset that we didn’t invite him to dine with us (which he regretted later). The Sioux are a stout, bold-looking people, with the young men being handsome and well-built. Most of them use bows and arrows, though I noticed a few with guns. Despite their reliance on bows and arrows, they do not shoot as well as the Northern Indians. The warriors are heavily decorated with paint, porcupine quills, and feathers, and they wear large leggings and moccasins, all made with buffalo robes of different colors. The women wore petticoats and white buffalo robes with their black hair pulled back over their necks and shoulders.
I will here remark a Society which I had never before this day heard was in any nation of Indians—four of which is at this time present and all who remain of this Band—Those who become members of this Society must be brave active young men who take a Vow never to give back let the danger be what it may; in War Parties they always go foward without Screening themselves behind trees or any thing else to this Vow they Strictly adheer dureing their Lives—an instanc which happened not long Since, on a party in Crossing the R Missourie on the ice, a whole was in the ice imediately in their Course which might easily have been avoided by going around, the foremost man went on and was lost the others wer draged around by the party—in a battle with the Crow Indians who inhabit the Coul Noir or black mountain out of 22 of this society 18 was Killed, the remaining four was draged off by their Party Those men are likely fellows the Sit together Camp & Dance together- This Society is in imitation of the Societies of the de Curbo or Crow Indians from whome they imitate-
I want to mention a society that I had never heard of before today, which exists among some Native American tribes—four members are here now and they are the last of this group. To join this society, members must be brave, active young men who vow never to retreat, no matter the danger. In battle, they always move forward without hiding behind trees or anything else; they strictly adhere to this vow throughout their lives. Recently, during a crossing of the Missouri River on the ice, there was a hole right in their path that could have easily been avoided by going around. The first man went straight into it and was lost, while the others were pulled around by the group. In a confrontation with the Crow Indians, who live in the Black Mountains, out of 22 members from this society, 18 were killed, and the remaining four were taken away by their group. These men are strong and close; they sit, camp, and dance together. This society mimics the societies of the Crow Indians, from whom they draw inspiration.
[Clark, August 31, 1804]
31st of August Friday rose early a fair Day—a curioes Society among this nation worthey of remark, ie, formed of their active deturmined young men, with a vow never to give back, let the danger or deficuelty be what it may, in war parties they always go forward, without Screening themselves behind trees or anything else, to this vow they Strictly adheer dureing their Lives, an Instance of it, is last winter on a march in Crossing the Missourei a hole was in the ice immediately in their Course which might easily be avoided by going around, the fore most man went on and was drowned, the others were caught by their party and draged aroundin a battle with the Crow de Curbo Indians out of 22 of this Society 18 was killed, the remaining four was draged off by their friends, and are now here—they assocate together Camp together and are merry fellows, This Custom the Souex learned of the de Carbours inhabiting the Gout Noie or Black mountain all the Chiefs Delivered a Speech agreeing to what we Said &. &. & beged which I answered from my notes. We made or gav a certificate to two Brave men the attendants of the Great Chief gave them Some tobacco and prepared a Commission for Mr. Darion to make a peace with all the nations in the neighbourhood, Mahas, Porncases, Panic, Loups, Ottoes and Missouries—& to take to the President Some of the Gt Chiefs of each nations who would accompany him allso to do certain other things, and wrot Instructions—gave him a flag and Some Cloaths—the Chiefs Sent all their young men home, and they Stayed for Mr. Dorion—in the evening late we gave the Comsn. & Instruction to Mr. Durion & he recved them with pleasa, & promised to do all which was necessary. I took a Vocabulary of the Seouex language, and a fiew answers to Some queries I put to Mr. Pitte Dorion respecting the War No. Situation Trad &c. &. of that people which is divided into 20 tribes possessing Sepperate interest they are numerous between 2 & 3000 men, divided into 20 tribes who view their interests as defferent Some bands at War with Nations which other bands are at peace—This nation call themselves-Dar co tar. The french call them Souex Their language is not perculiar to themselves as has been Stated, a great many words is the Same with the Mahas, Ponckais, Osarge, Kanzies &c. Clearly proves to me those people had the Same Oregean—this nations inhabit the red river of Hudson bay St. Peters Missippi, Demoin R. Jacque & on the Missourie they are at War with 20 nations, and at piece with 8 only—they recved their trade from the British except a few on the Missourie they furnish Beaver Martain Loues orter, Pekon Bear and Deer and have forty Traders at least among them. The names of the Different bands of this nation are-
31st of August, Friday, rose early, a nice day. There's a curious society among this nation that’s worth mentioning, made up of their determined young men, who have vowed never to retreat, no matter how dangerous or difficult the situation is. In battle, they always move forward, without taking cover behind trees or anything else. They strictly adhere to this vow throughout their lives. An example of this occurred last winter during a march while crossing the Missouri River. There was a hole in the ice right in their path that could have easily been avoided by going around, but the first man walked straight on and drowned. The others were caught by their party and dragged around in a battle with the Crow de Curbo Indians. Out of 22 from this society, 18 were killed; the remaining four were rescued by their friends and are now here. They associate together, camp together, and are cheerful individuals. This custom was learned by the Sioux from the de Carbours living in the Gout Noie or Black Mountain. All the chiefs delivered a speech agreeing to what we said, and they begged, which I responded to from my notes. We issued a certificate to two brave men, the attendants of the Great Chief, gave them some tobacco, and prepared a commission for Mr. Dorion to negotiate peace with all the neighboring nations: Mahas, Poncas, Pawnees, Loups, Ottoes, and Missouries. He was also tasked with bringing to the president some of the Great Chiefs from each nation who would accompany him, as well as handling certain other matters, and I wrote instructions for him. We gave him a flag and some clothing. The chiefs sent all their young men home, while they stayed for Mr. Dorion. Late in the evening, we gave the commission and instructions to Mr. Dorion, and he received them with pleasure, promising to do everything necessary. I gathered a vocabulary of the Sioux language and a few answers to some questions I asked Mr. Pitte Dorion about the war, their situation, trade, etc. This group is divided into 20 tribes, each with separate interests, and they number between 2,000 and 3,000 men, divided into 20 tribes that see their interests differently. Some bands are at war with nations with which other bands are at peace. This nation calls themselves Dar co tar; the French call them Sioux. Their language isn't unique to them, as previously stated; many of their words are the same as those used by the Mahas, Poncas, Osages, Kansans, etc. This clearly shows me that these people have a common origin. This nation inhabits the Red River of Hudson Bay, St. Peters, Mississippi, Des Moines River, Jacques River, and along the Missouri. They are at war with 20 nations and at peace with only 8. They receive their trade from the British, with the exception of a few on the Missouri River. They supply beaver, marten, lynx, otter, peyote, bear, and deer and have at least forty traders among them. The names of the different bands of this nation are—
1st Che the ree or Bois ruley (the present band) Inhabit the Souex Jacque & Demoin Rivers
1st Che the ree or Bois ruley (the present band) inhabit the Sioux Jacques & Demoin Rivers
2nd Ho in de bor to or poles. They live on the head of the Suouex River
2nd Ho in de bor to or poles. They live on the head of the Suouex River
3rd Me ma car jo (or make fence on the river.) the Country near the Big bend of the Missouri.
3rd Me ma car jo (or make a fence on the river) the area near the Big bend of the Missouri.
4th Son on to ton (People of the Prarie) they rove North of the Missourie in the Praries above.
4th Son on to ton (People of the Prairie) they roam north of the Missouri in the prairies above.
5th Wau pa Coo do (Beeds) they live near the Prarie de Chaine on the Missippi
5th Wau pa Coo do (Beeds) live near Prairie de Chaine on the Mississippi.
6th Te tar ton (or Village of Prarie) on the waters of the Mississippi above Prate de Chain (Dog Prarie)
6th Te tar ton (or Village of Prairie) on the waters of the Mississippi above Prate de Chain (Dog Prairie)
7th Ne was tar ton (Big Water Town) on the Mississippi above the mouth of the St. Peters River.
7th Ne was tar ton (Big Water Town) on the Mississippi River above the mouth of the St. Peters River.
8th Wau pa to (Leaf Nation). 10 Leagues up St. Peters
8th Wau pa to (Leaf Nation). 10 Leagues up St. Peters
9th Cass car ba (White man) 35 Lgs. up St Peters
9th Cass car ba (White man) 35 Lgs. up St Peters
10 Mi ac cu op si ba (Cut Bank) reside on the head of St. Peters river
10 Mi ac cu op si ba (Cut Bank) is located at the source of the St. Peters River.
11 Son on—on St. Peters in the Praries
11 Son on—on St. Peters in the Prairies
12th Se si toons—40 Leagues up St Peters.
12th Se si toons—40 Leagues up St Peters.
The names of the other tribes I could not get In
The names of the other tribes I couldn't find.
31st August 1804 Speeches
August 31, 1804 Speeches
at 8 oClock the Chiefs and warriers met us in Council all with their pipes with the Stems presented towards us, after a Silence of abt. ____ The great Chief Dressed himself in his fine Cloathes and two warriers in the uniform and armer of their Nation Stood on his left with a War Club & Speer each, & Dressed in feathurs.
At 8 o'clock, the chiefs and warriors gathered for a council, all with their pipes held out towards us. After a silence of about ____, the great chief dressed in his fine clothes, and two warriors in the uniform and armor of their nation stood to his left, each with a war club and spear, dressed in feathers.
The Shake hand 1st Chief Spoke
The Shake hand 1st Chief Spoke
My Father. I am glad to here the word of my G. F. and all my warriers and men about me are also glad.
My Father. I am happy to hear the words of my Grandfather and all my warriors and men around me are also happy.
My Father.—now I see my two fathers the Children, of my great father, & what you have Said I believe and all my people do believ also
My Father.—now I see my two fathers, the children of my great father, and what you said I believe, and all my people believe as well.
My Father—We are verry glad you would take pitty on them this Day, we are pore and have no powder and ball.
My Father—We are very glad you would take pity on them today, we are poor and have no powder and ball.
My Father.—We are verry Sorry our women are naked and all our children, no petiecoats or cloathes
My Father.—We are very sorry that our women are naked and all our children have no petticoats or clothes.
My Father—You do not want me to Stop the boats going up if we See,
My father—you don’t want me to stop the boats from going up if we see,
I wish a man out of your boat to bring about a peace, between all the Indians, & he can do So.
I want a man from your boat to help create peace among all the Indians, and he can do it.
My Father—Listen to what I say I had an English medal when I went to See them, I went to the Spanoriards they give me a meadel and Some goods, I wish you would do the Same for my people.
My Father—Listen to what I say, I had an English medal when I went to see them. I visited the Spaniards, and they gave me a medal and some goods. I hope you would do the same for my people.
My Father.—I have your word I am glad of it & as Soon as the Ice is don running I will go down & take with me, Some great men of the other bands of the Soues
My Father.—I have your word, and I'm glad to hear it. As soon as the ice is done melting, I'll head down and bring along some influential people from the other bands of the Soues.
My Father—I will be glad to See My Grand Father but our Women has got no Cloathes and we have no Powder & Ball, take pity on us this day.
My father—I’ll be happy to see my grandfather, but our women have no clothes and we have no powder and bullets. Please have mercy on us today.
My Father—I want to listen and observe wath you Say, we want our old friend (Mr. Durion) to Stay with us and bring the Indians with my Self down this Spring.
My Father—I want to hear and see what you say. We want our old friend (Mr. Durion) to stay with us and bring the Indians with me down this spring.
My Father—I opend my ears and all my yound men and we wish you to let Mr. Durion Stay, and a Perogue for to take us down in the Spring.
My father—I opened my ears and all my young men, and we want you to let Mr. Durion stay and have a canoe to take us down in the spring.
The speach of th White Crain Mar to ree 2d Chief
The speech of the White Crane Mar to Ree 2d Chief
My Fathr's listen to my word, I am a young man and do not intend to talk much, but will Say a few words.
My father, listen to my words. I'm a young man and I don't plan to speak for long, but I want to say a few things.
My Father—my father was a Chief, and you have made me a Chief I now think I am a chief agreeable to your word as I am a young man and inexperienced, cannot say much What the Great Chief has Said is as much as I could Say
My father was a Chief, and you have made me a Chief as well. I now believe I am a Chief, just as you said. As a young and inexperienced man, I can't say much. What the Great Chief has said is all I could express.
Par nar ne Ar par be Struck by the Pana 3d Chief
Par nar ne Ar par be Struck by the Pana 3d Chief
My father's I cant Speek much I will Speek a litle to you
My dad says I can't speak much, but I'll say a little to you.
My fathers.—ther's the Chiefs you have made high, we will obey them, as also my young men, the Pipe I hold in my hand is the pipe of my father, I am pore as you See, take pity on me I believe what you have Said
My fathers. — The chiefs you've elevated, we will follow them, as will my young men. The pipe I hold in my hand is my father's pipe. I'm poor, as you can see; have mercy on me. I believe what you've said.
My fathers—You think the great meadel you gave My great Chief pleases me and the small one you gave me gives me the heart to go with him to See my Great father. What the Great Chief has Said is all I could Say. I am young and Cant Speek.
My fathers—You think the great medal you gave my great Chief makes me happy, and that the small one you gave me gives me the courage to go with him to see my great father. What the great Chief has said is all I would say. I am young and can’t speak.
A Warrier by name Tar ro mo nee Spoke
A warrior named Tarro Mo Nee spoke.
My father—I am verry glad you have made this man our great
My dad—I’m really glad you’ve made this guy our great
Chief, the British & Spaniards have acknowledged him before but never Cloathed him. you have Cloathed him, he is going to see our Great father, We do not wish to spear him but he must go and see his great father
Chief, the British and Spaniards have recognized him before but never dressed him. You have dressed him; he is going to see our Great Father. We do not want to harm him, but he must go and see his great father.
My Fathr's, my great Chief must go and See his Gd father, give him some of your milk to Speek to his young men,
My Father, my great Chief, must go and see his Grandfather. Give him some of your milk to speak to his young men.
My father. our people are naked, we wish a trader to Stop among us, I would be verry glad our two fathers would give us some powder and ball and some Milk with the flag.
My father, our people are without clothes, and we hope a trader will stay with us. I would be very happy if our two fathers would give us some gunpowder and bullets, as well as some milk with the flag.
Speech of Ar ca we char chi the half man 3d Chief
Speech of Ar ca we char chi the half man 3d Chief
My fathr's I do not Speak verry well, I am a pore man and
My father, I do not speak very well. I am a poor man and
My Fathr's. I was once a Chiefs boy now I am a man and a Chief of Some note
My Father's. I was once a Chief's boy, but now I am a man and a Chief of some significance.
My Fat hr's—I am glad you have made my old Chief a fine and a great man, I have been a great warrier but now I here your words, I will berry my hatchet and be at peace with all & go with my Great Chief to see my great father.
My Fat hr's—I’m glad you helped make my old Chief a fine and great man. I’ve been a great warrior, but now that I hear your words, I will bury my hatchet and live in peace with everyone, and I will go with my Great Chief to see my great father.
My fath-s. When I was a young man I went to the Spaniards to see ther fassion, I like you talk and will pursue you advice, Since you have given me a meadal. I will tell you the talk of the Spaniards
My father. When I was a young man, I traveled to Spain to see their fashion. I appreciate your words and will seek your advice since you've given me a medal. I will share what I learned from the Spaniards.
My Father's.—I am glad my Grand father has sent you to the read people on this river, and that he has given us a flag large and handsom the Shade of which we can Sit under
My Father's.—I’m glad my grandfather has sent you to meet the people along this river, and that he has given us a large and beautiful flag under which we can sit.
My Fathr's.—We want one thing for our nation very much we have no trader, and often in want of goods
My Father's.—We really want one thing for our nation: we have no trader and often find ourselves in need of goods.
My Fathers—I am glad as well as all around me to here your word, and we open our ears, and I think our old Frend Mr. Durion can open the ears of the other bands of Soux. but I fear those nations above will not open their ears, and you cannot I fear open them
My fathers—I am happy, as is everyone around me, to hear your words, and we are all listening attentively. I believe our old friend Mr. Durion can reach the other groups of Sioux. However, I worry that the nations to the north will not be receptive, and I fear that you may not be able to change that.
My Fathers. You tell us that you wish us to make peace with the Ottoes & M. You have given 5 Medles I wish you to give 5 Kigz with them
My Fathers. You say that you want us to make peace with the Ottoes and M. You have given 5 Medles, and I would like you to give 5 Kigz along with them.
My Fathers.—My horses are pore running the Buffalow give us
My Fathers.—My horses are poor running the Buffalo gives us
Some powder and ball to hunt with, and leave old Mr. Durion with us to get us a trader
Some powder and ammunition for hunting, and leave old Mr. Durion with us to find us a trader.
My Father.—The Spaniards did not keep the Medal of the Token of our Great Chief when they gave him one You have Dressed him and I like it I am pore & take pitey on me
My Father.—The Spaniards didn't keep the Medal of the Token of our Great Chief when they gave it to him. You've dressed him up, and I like it. I'm poor and feel pity for myself.
My fathers—I am glad you have put heart in our great Chief he can now speak with confidence, I will support him in all your Councilsafter all the chief presented the pipe to us
My fathers—I’m glad you’ve encouraged our great Chief; he can now speak with confidence. I will support him in all your councils after the Chief presented the pipe to us.
The Half man rose & spoke as follows viz.
The half-man stood up and spoke as follows:
My father—What you have Said is well, but you have not given any thing to the attendants of the Great Chiefs after which
My father—What you said is true, but you haven’t given anything to the servants of the Great Chiefs after that.
In the evening late we gave Mr. Dorion a bottle of whiskey and himself with the Chiefs Crossed the river and Camped on the opposit bank Soon after a violent Wind from the N W. accompanied with rain
In the late evening, we gave Mr. Dorion a bottle of whiskey, and he, along with the Chiefs, crossed the river and camped on the opposite bank. Soon after, a violent wind from the northwest came, along with rain.
[Clark, August 31, 1804]
31st of August We gave a Certificate to two Men of War, attendants on the Chief gave to all the Chiefs a Carrot of Tobacco—had a talk with Mr. Dorion, who agreed to Stay and Collect the Chiefs from as many Bands of Soux as he coud this fall & bring about a peace between the Sciuex & their neighbours &. &c. &c.
31st of August We gave a certificate to two warships that were with the Chief. We handed out a carrot of tobacco to all the Chiefs. I had a conversation with Mr. Dorion, who agreed to stay and gather the Chiefs from as many bands of Sioux as he could this fall, in order to bring about peace between the Sioux and their neighbors, and so on.
after Dinner we gave Mr. Peter Darion, a Comission to act with a flag & some Cloathes & Provisions & instructions to bring about a peace with the Scioux Mahars, Panies, Ponceries, Ottoes & Missouries—and to employ any trader to take Some of the Cheifs of each or as many of those nations as he Could Perticularly the Sceiouex—I took a Vocabulary of the Scioux Language—and the Answer to a fiew quaries Such as refured to ther Situation, Trade, number War, &c. &c.—This Nation is Divided into 20 Tribes, possessing Seperate interests- Collectively they are noumerous Say from 2 to 3000 men, their interests are so unconnected that Some bands are at war with Nations which other bands are on the most friendly terms. This Great Nation who the French has given the nickname of Sciouex, Call them selves Dar co tar their language is not peculiarly their own, they Speak a great number of words, which is the Same in every respect with the Maha, Poncaser, Osarge & Kanzies. which Clearly proves that those nation at Some Period not more that a century or two past the Same nation—Those Dar ca ter's or Scioux inhabit or rove over the Countrey on the Red river of Lake Winipeck, St. Peter's & the West of the Missippie above Prarie De chain heads of River Demoin, and the Missouri and its waters on the N. Side for a great extent. They are only at peace with 8 Nations, & agreeable to their Calculation at war with twenty odd.—Their trade Corns from the British, except this Band and one on Demoin who trade with the Traders of St Louis—The furnish Beaver Martain, Loues Pikon, Bear and Deer Skins-and have about 40 Traders among them. The Dar co tar or Sceouex rove & follow the Buffalow raise no corn or any thing else the woods & praries affording a Suffcency, the eat Meat, and Substitute the Ground potato which grow in the Plains for bread The names of the Different Tribes or Canoes of the Sceoux or Dar co tar Nation
After dinner, we appointed Mr. Peter Darion to act with a flag, some clothes, provisions, and instructions to establish peace with the Sioux, Mahars, Panies, Ponceries, Ottoes, and Missouries. He was to hire any trader to take some chiefs from each of those nations, particularly the Sioux. I collected a vocabulary of the Sioux language and responses to a few questions related to their situation, trade, numbers, war, etc. This nation is divided into 20 tribes, each having separate interests. Collectively, they are numerous, with an estimate of around 2,000 to 3,000 men. Their interests are so disconnected that some bands are at war with nations that other bands are friendly with. This great nation, whom the French called the Sioux, refers to themselves as Dar co tar. Their language is not uniquely their own, as they share many words with the Maha, Poncaser, Osage, and Kansas tribes, clearly indicating that these nations were likely the same group no more than a century or two ago. The Dar co tar or Sioux inhabit and roam over the areas surrounding the Red River of Lake Winnipeg, St. Peter's, and the western places above Prairie du Chien, along the Des Moines River and the upper Missouri and its northern waters extensively. They are only at peace with eight nations, and according to their calculations, they are at war with over twenty. Their trade comes from the British, except for one band and another near Des Moines, which trades with traders from St. Louis. They provide beaver, marten, lynx, bear, and deer skins, with around 40 traders among them. The Dar co tar or Sioux roam and follow the buffalo, raising no corn or anything else, as the woods and prairies provide enough sustenance. They eat meat and substitute ground potatoes, which grow in the plains, for bread. The names of the different tribes or bands of the Sioux or Dar co tar nation.
1st Che cher ree Yank ton (or bois rulay) now present inhabit the Sciouex & Demoin rivers and the Jacques.
1st Che cher ree Yank ton (or bois rulay) now inhabit the Sciouex and Des Moines rivers and the Jacques.
2nd Hoin de borto (Poles) they rove on the heads of Souix & Jacqus Rivers-
2nd Hoin de borto (Poles) they rove on the heads of Sioux & Jacques Rivers-
3rd Me ma car jo (make fence of the river) rove on the Countrey near the big bend of the Missouries
3rd Me ma car jo (make fence of the river) rove on the Country near the big bend of the Missouries
4th Sou on, Teton (People of the Prarie) the rove in the Plains N. of the Riv Missouries above this
4th Sou on, Teton (People of the Prairie) they roam in the plains north of the Missouri River above this
5th Wau pa coo tar (Leaf beds) the live near the Prare de Chain near the Missippi
5th Wau pa coo tar (Leaf beds) they live near the Prairie de Chain near the Mississippi
6th Te tar ton (or village of Prarie) rove on the waters of the Mississippi above Prarie de Chain
6th The town of Prairie (or the village of Prairie) located on the waters of the Mississippi above Prairie du Chien
7th Ne was tar ton (big water Town) rove on the Missippi above the St. Peters River
7th Ne was tar ton (big water Town) rove on the Mississippi above the St. Peters River
8th Wau pa tow (Leaf nation) live 10 Leagues up St Peters river
8th Wau pa tow (Leaf nation) lives 10 leagues up the St. Peter river
9th Cas Car ba (white man) live 35 Leagus up St Peters river
9th Cas Car ba (white man) lives 35 leagues up St. Peter's River.
10th Mi ca cu op si ba (Cut bank) rove on the head of St. Peters
10th Mi ca cu op si ba (Cut bank) rove on the head of St. Peters
11th Sou on (-) rove on St peters river in the Prareis
11th Sou on (-) rove on St Peter's River in the Prairies
12th Sou si toons (-) live 40 Legus up the St peters river
12th Sou si toons (-) live 40 Legus up the St peters river
The names of the other bands neither of the Souex's interpters could inform me. in the evening late we gave Mr. Dourion a bottle of whiskey, & he with the Cheifs & his Son Crossed the river and Camped on the Opposit bank—Soon after night a violent wind from the N W. with rain the rain Continud the greater part of the night The river a riseing a little.
The names of the other bands neither of the Souex's interpreters could inform me. Late in the evening, we gave Mr. Dourion a bottle of whiskey, and he along with the Chiefs and his son crossed the river and camped on the opposite bank. Soon after nightfall, a violent wind from the northwest brought rain, which continued for most of the night. The river was rising a little.
[Clark, August 31, 1804]
August the 31st 1804 after the Indians got their Brackfast the Chiefs met and arranged themselves in a row with elligent pipes of peace all pointing to our Seets, we Came foward and took our Seets, the Great Cheif The Shake han rose and Spoke to Some length aproving what we had Said and promissing to pursue the advice.
August 31, 1804, after the Indians had their breakfast, the chiefs met and lined up with elegant pipes of peace all directed toward our seats. We came forward and took our seats. The great chief, The Shakehan, stood up and spoke at some length, approving what we had said and promising to follow the advice.
Mar to ree 2d Cheif (White Crain) rose and made a Short Speech and refured to the great Chief
Mar to ree 2d Chief (White Crain) stood up and gave a brief speech, referring to the great Chief.
Par nar ne Ar par be 3rd Cheif rose and made a Short Speech
Par nar ne Ar par be 3rd Chief stood up and gave a brief speech.
Ar ca we char the (the half man) 3d Chief rose & spoke at Some length. Much to the purpose.
Ar ca we char the (the half man) 3d Chief stood up and spoke for a while. It was very relevant.
The othe Cheif Said but little one of the warreirs Spoke after all was don & promissed to Support the Chiefs, the promisd to go and See their Great father in the Spring with Mr. Dorion, and to do all things we had advised them to do. and all Concluded by telling the distresses of ther nation by not haveing traders, & wished us to take pity on them, the wanted Powder Ball & a little milk
The other Chief said very little, but one of the warriors spoke after everything was done and promised to support the Chiefs. They promised to go see their Great Father in the spring with Mr. Dorion and to do everything we had advised them to do. They all concluded by expressing the struggles of their nation due to the lack of traders and wished for us to have pity on them. They needed powder, balls, and a little milk.
last night the Indians Danced untill late in their dances we gave them Som knives Tobaco & belts & tape & Binding with which they wer Satisfied
Last night the Indians danced until late. During their dances, we gave them some knives, tobacco, belts, tape, and bindings, and they were satisfied.
[Clark, September 1, 1804]
September 1st Satturday 1804 Mr. Durion left his Kettle which we gave him, which we Sent to him and Set out under a gentle Breeze from the South (raind half the last night,) proceded on—pass Calumet Bluff of a yellowish read & a brownish white Hard clay, this Bluff is about 170 or 180 foot high here the highlands aproach the river on each Side with a jentle assent, opsd. the Bluff a large Island Covered with timber is Situated Close to the L. S. we passed the Island opposit which the high land approach the river on both Side (river ros 3 Inchs last night) passed a large Island Covered with wood on the L. S. Some rain, cloudy all day—the river wide & Hils close on each Side, Came to before night to go & See a Beaver house which is 11/2 Miles to the L. S. of the riv Cap Lewis & my self with two men went to See this house which was represented as high & situated in a Small pond. we could not find the Pon. Drewyer Killed a Buck Elk, it is not necessary to mention fish as we catch them at any place on the river, Camped at the lower point of Bonhomme Island-
September 1st, Saturday, 1804. Mr. Durion left the kettle we gave him and set out under a gentle breeze from the south (it rained half the night before). We proceeded on, passing Calumet Bluff, which has yellowish red and brownish white hard clay. This bluff is about 170 or 180 feet high, and here the highlands approach the river on either side with a gentle slope. Opposite the bluff, there's a large island covered with timber situated close to the left side of the river. We passed the island opposite where the highland approaches the river on both sides (the river rose 3 inches last night). We passed another large island covered with trees on the left side. Some rain and cloudy weather all day— the river is wide with hills close on either side. Before night, we headed out to check a beaver house that is 1.5 miles to the left side of the river. Cap Lewis, myself, and two men went to see this house, which was said to be high and located in a small pond, but we couldn't find the pond. Drewyer killed a buck elk. It's unnecessary to mention fish since we catch them anywhere in the river. We camped at the lower point of Bonhomme Island.
[Clark, September 1, 1804]
September 1st Satturday 1804 Mr. Dourion left his Kettle & Sent back for it &c. We Set out under a jentle Breeze from the S. (It rained half the last night) proceeded on pass the Bluffs Compsd. of a yellowish red, & brownish White Clay which is a hard as Chalk this Bluff is 170 or 180 feet high, here the High lands approach near the river on each Side, that on the S. S. not So high as that on the L. S. opposit the Bluffs is Situated a large Island Covered with timber close under the L. S. above the Isd the high land approach & form a Clift to the river on the S. S. this Clift is Called White Bear Clift one of those animals haveing been killed in a whole in it
September 1st, Saturday, 1804: Mr. Dourion left his kettle and sent back for it, etc. We set out under a gentle breeze from the south (it rained half the night before) and proceeded past the bluffs made of a yellowish red and brownish white clay that is as hard as chalk. This bluff is 170 or 180 feet high. Here, the highlands come close to the river on both sides; the side on the south bank is not as high as the one on the left bank. Across from the bluffs is a large island covered in timber, located just under the left bank. Above the island, the highland approaches and forms a cliff along the river on the south side. This cliff is called White Bear Cliff, named for one of those animals that was killed in a hole in it.
[Clark, September 1, 1804]
1st of September Satturday 1804 Some hard wind and rain, Cloudy all day, the river wide & hills on each Side near the river, passd. a large (1) Island which appeared to be composed of Sand, Covered with Cotton wood close under the S. S. we landed at the Lower point of a large Island on the S. S. Called bon homme or Good man, here Capt Lewis & my Self went out a Short distance on the L. S. to See a Beave house, which was Said to be of Great hite & Situated in a Pond we could not find the house and returned after night Drewyer killed an Elk, & a Beaver. numbers of Cat fish cought, those fish is so plenty that we catch them at any time and place in the river
1st of September, Saturday, 1804. There was strong wind and rain, and it was cloudy all day. The river was wide, with hills on either side. We passed a large island that seemed to be made of sand, covered with cottonwoods. We landed at the lower point of a large island on the south side called Bon Homme, or Good Man. Here, Captain Lewis and I went a short distance to the left side to see a beaver house, which was rumored to be very large and located in a pond, but we couldn’t find it and returned after dark. Drewyer hunted an elk and a beaver. We caught lots of catfish; they are so abundant that we can catch them at any time and any place in the river.
[Clark, September 2, 1804]
2nd of Sept. Sunday 1804—Set out early & proceeded on passed the Island & Came too above below a yellow Bluff on the S S. the Wind being hard from the N W. verry Cold Some rain all day much Thunder & lightning G Drewyer R. Fields Howard & Newmon Killed four fat Elk on the Isld. we had them Jurked &the Skins Stretched to Cover the Perogues water riseing, I observe Bear grass & Rhue in the Sides of the hills at Sunset the wind luled and cleared up cool—Aired the meet all in high Spirits—Shannon & the man Sent after him has not yet joind us
2nd of Sept. Sunday 1804—Set out early and proceeded on, passed the Island and stopped above a yellow bluff on the south side. The wind was strong from the northwest, very cold, with some rain all day, and a lot of thunder and lightning. G. Drewyer, R. Fields, Howard, and Newmon killed four fat elk on the island. We had them jerked and the skins stretched to cover the pirogues. The water is rising; I noticed bear grass and rue on the sides of the hills. At sunset, the wind calmed down and it cleared up, cool. We aired the meat, all in high spirits. Shannon and the man sent after him have not yet joined us.
2 Sepr. description of a antient fortification
(1) From the river on the top of the antient fortification at this the 12 foot high 75 feet Base first Corse is from the river is S 76° W 96 yards. S 84° W. 53 yds. at this angle a kind of ravilene covering a Saleport, bearing East widing N 69 W 300 yds. passed a gate way at 280 yds. the bank lower & forming a right angle of 30 yards—two wings or mounds running from a high nold to the West of the way one 30 yards back of the other Covering the gate (at this place the mound is 15 feet 8 Inches higher than the plain forming a Glassee outwards & 105 feet base N. 32 W. 56 yards N. 20 W. 73 yards this part of the work is about 12 feet high, leavel & about 16 feet wide on the top) at the experation of this course a low irregular work in a Direction to the river, out Side of which is several ovel mounds of about 16 feet high and at the iner part of the Gouge a Deep whole across the Gauge N.
(1) From the river at the top of the ancient fortification, the first course from the 12-foot-high base is S 76° W for 96 yards. S 84° W for 53 yards at this angle is a type of ravelin covering a sally port, bearing East widening N 69 W for 300 yards. Passing through a gateway at 280 yards, the bank lowers and forms a right angle of 30 yards—two wings or mounds extending from a high knoll to the West of the path, with one being 30 yards behind the other, covering the gate. At this point, the mound is 15 feet 8 inches higher than the plain, creating an outward slope with a base of 105 feet, N 32 W for 56 yards, N 20 W for 73 yards. This part of the work is about 12 feet high, level, and about 16 feet wide at the top. At the end of this course is a low irregular structure in the direction of the river, outside of which are several oval mounds about 16 feet high, and at the inner part of the gauge, there is a deep hole across the gauge N.
32 W 96 yds. to the Commencment of a wall of about 8 feet high N.81° W. 533 yards to a Deep pond 73 yds in Deamuter, and 200 yards further to a Saleport, where there is evident marks of its being Covered, the Same Course Contined 1030 yards to the river bottom.
32 W 96 yards to the start of a wall about 8 feet high N.81° W. 533 yards to a deep pond 73 yards in diameter, and 200 yards further to a sale port, where there are clear signs of it being covered. The same course continued 1030 yards to the river bottom.
One half of the first part of the Fortification is washed into the river, a Second line, has run from the Northrn extremity parrelel with the river (as it appears to have run at that time) N. 56 W. this of different hith from 4 to to 10 feet—The high land is about 3 me. from this fortress, and rise to Small mountains Say from 3 to 400 feet the high land on the opposit or North Side of the Missourie is 110 feet forming a yellow Clay bluff to the water and is leavel back as fur as can be Seen. I am informed by the inteperter & french, that they have Seen, numbers of those fortifications in different parts of this Cty. pirtcularly on the Platt Kansies and the North of this place on the river Jacque.
One half of the first part of the Fortification has been washed into the river. A second line runs from the northern end parallel to the river (as it seems to have been at that time) at a direction of N. 56 W. This varies in height from 4 to 10 feet. The high land is about 3 miles from this fortress and rises to small mountains, ranging from 300 to 400 feet. The elevated land on the opposite or north side of the Missouri is 110 feet high, forming a yellow clay bluff down to the water, and it is flat as far as the eye can see. I've been informed by the interpreter and the French that they've seen numerous fortifications in different parts of this county, particularly on the Platte, Kansas, and to the north of this place along the River Jacques.
two Small fortifications is on the Arc Creek on the upper side 1st 1/4 of a mile up & the 2d 1/4 higher, nearly Square each angle 100 yards
two small fortifications are on Arc Creek on the upper side, the first one a quarter of a mile up and the second one a quarter mile higher, nearly square with each angle measuring 100 yards.
[Clark, September 2, 1804]
2nd September Sunday 1804 Set out early and proceeded on Passed the Island and Landed on the S. S above under a yellow Clay bluff of 110 feet high, the wind blew verry hard a head from the N. W. with Some rain and verry Cold, G. Drewnyer R. Fields Newman & howard Killed four fine Elk we had the meat all jurked and the Skins Dried to Cover the Perogue, on the Side of the Bluff I observed Bear Grass & Rhue, at Sun Set the wind luled and Cleared up Cold, the high land on the L. S. is verry high, & uneaven, that on the S. S from 80 to 120 foot & is leavel back but fiew Small Streems falling into the river.
2nd September Sunday 1804 Set out early and moved on. Passed the island and landed on the south side under a yellow clay bluff that was 110 feet high. The wind was blowing very hard against us from the northwest, with some rain and it was very cold. G. Drewnyer, R. Fields, Newman, and Howard hunted four nice elk; we had the meat all jerked and the skins dried to cover the perogue. On the side of the bluff, I noticed bear grass and rhubarb. At sunset, the wind calmed down and the sky cleared up, but it was still cold. The high land on the left side is very high and uneven, while the right side ranges from 80 to 120 feet and is flat with only a few small streams flowing into the river.
I went out and made a Survey of the antient works which is Situated in a level plain about 3 miles from the hills which are high.
I went out and surveyed the ancient structures located on a flat plain about 3 miles from the high hills.
A Discription of the Fortification
A Description of the Fortification
(1) Commenceing on the river opsid the Good Mans Island, first Course from the river is
(1) Starting on the river opposite Good Man's Island, the first course from the river is
S. 76d W. 96 yards thence
S. 76d W. 96 yards then
S. 84 W. 53 yards (at this angle a kind of angle or horn work)
S. 84 W. 53 yards (at this angle, a sort of angled or horn structure)
N. 69 W. 300 yards to a high part, passing the gateway Covered by two half Circler works one back of the other lower than the main work the gate forms a right angle projecting inward
N. 69 W. 300 yards to a higher spot, passing through the gateway covered by two semi-circular works, one behind the other, which are lower than the main structure. The gate forms a right angle that projects inward.
N.32 W. 56 yards
N.32 W. 56 yards
N 20 W. 73 yards This part of the work appears to have either double, or a covered way. from this Some irregular works appear to have been on mounds between this and the river with a Deep round whole in the center of a gorge formed by another angle ——— (578)
N 20 W. 73 yards This section of the project seems to feature either a double pathway or a covered route. Some uneven structures seem to have been on mounds between here and the river, with a deep round hole at the center of a gorge created by another angle ——— (578)
This part of the work is from 10 to 15 feet 8 Inches—the mounds of various hights—the base of the work is from 75 to 105 feet, steep inward and forming a kind of Glassee out wards
This section of the structure is between 10 to 15 feet 8 inches high—the mounds are of varying heights—the base of the structure is between 75 to 105 feet, sloping inward and creating a sort of outward curve.
the Same Cours continued i e
the Same Course continued i e
N. 32°W. 96 yards to the Commencement of a wall from 8 to 10 feet high this corse not on the wall but thro to the commencment of another detached
N. 32°W. 96 yards to the start of a wall that is 8 to 10 feet high, this course is not along the wall but through to the beginning of another detached
N. 81° W 1830 yards to the river & above where this bank Strikes the river is the remains of a Circular work
N. 81° W 1830 yards to the river, and just above where this bank meets the river, you'll find the remains of a circular structure.
in this Course at 533 yards a Deep Pond of 73 yards Diameter perfectly round is in the Course of the bank which is about 8 feet high, from this Pond the bank it lowers gradually—a bank about the Same hight runs near the river, and must have joined the main work at a part which is now washed into the river, this is also perfectly Streight and widens from the main work, as the river above has washed in its banks for A great distance I cannot form an Idear How those two long works joined—where they Strike the river above, they are about 1100 yds apart, I am informed by our freench interpeters that a great number of those antint works are in Different parts of this Countrey, on the Platt River, Kansus, Jacque, Osarge Mine river &c.
In this course, at 533 yards, there's a deep pond with a diameter of 73 yards that is perfectly round. The bank surrounding it is about 8 feet high, and from this pond, the bank gradually slopes down. A bank of similar height runs near the river and must have been connected to the main structure at a part that is now washed away into the river. This section is also perfectly straight and widens away from the main structure, as the river upstream has eroded its banks significantly. I can't figure out how those two long structures are connected—where they meet the river above, they're about 1,100 yards apart. I've been informed by our French interpreters that many of these ancient works are located in various parts of this country, along the Platte River, Kansas, Jacque, Osage Mine River, etc.
Small one is on Island opposit the one I have Discribed, and two of our Party Saw two of those antient frtresses on the Pittiet Arc Creek on the upper Side near the mouth, each angle of which were 100 yards and about 8 feet high-
Small one is on the island opposite the one I described, and two members of our group saw two of those ancient forts on the Pittiet Arc Creek on the upper side near the mouth, each corner of which was 100 yards and about 8 feet high.
[Clark, September 3, 1804]
3rd September Monday 1804. Set out at Sun rise, verry Cold morning clear and but little wind from the N W. we proceeded on, the river wide, took an obsivation below Plumb Creek which mouths on the S S. this Creek is Small & corns in between 2 white banks, Great quantities of Plumbs of a most delisious flavour, I have collected the Seed of 3 Kinds which I intend to Send to my brother, also Som grapes of a Superior quallity large & well flavoured, the river is riseing a little, Several wild Goats Seen in the Plains they are wild & fleet Elk & Buffalow is verry plenty, Scercely any timber in Countrey except a little on the river in the Points. Saw Some Signs of the 2 men who are a head, Colter has not over taken Shannon Camped on the L. S. at the edge of a Plain-
3rd September Monday 1804. We set out at sunrise on a very cold, clear morning with only a light wind coming from the northwest. We continued on, with the river wide, and took an observation below Plumb Creek, which flows into the south side. This creek is small and is bordered by two white banks, with a great quantity of plums that are extremely delicious. I've collected seeds from three types, which I plan to send to my brother, along with some grapes of superior quality—large and flavorful. The river is rising slightly. We spotted several wild goats in the plains; they are wild and fast. Elk and buffalo are very plentiful, and there’s hardly any timber in the area except for a bit along the riverbanks. We saw some signs of the two men ahead; Colter hasn’t caught up with Shannon, who is camped on the left side at the edge of a plain.
[Clark, September 3, 1804]
3rd of September Monday 1804 a verry Cold morning wind from N. W. we Set out at Sun rise, & proceeded on to a Bluff below the mouth of Plumb 12 yds. Creek on the S. S. and took an obsevation of the Suns Altitude
3rd of September, Monday, 1804. A very cold morning with a wind from the northwest. We set out at sunrise and continued on to a bluff below the mouth of Plumb 12 yds. Creek on the south side and took an observation of the sun's altitude.
This Creek is Small it "abounds with blumbs of a Delicious flavour" the River is wide and Crouded with Sand bars—it is riseing a little but little timber in this Countrey all that is, is on the river in the points. we Came too on the L. Sin the edge of a Plain an Camped for the night—we Saw Some Signs of the two men Shannon & Colter, Shannon appeared to be a head of Colter—The White banks appear to Continu on both sides of the river. Grapes plenty and finely flavered-
This creek is small and "filled with berries of a delicious flavor." The river is wide and crowded with sandbars—it’s rising a bit, but there’s not much timber in this country; all that exists is along the river at the points. We arrived on the left side at the edge of a plain and camped for the night. We saw some signs of the two men, Shannon and Colter; Shannon seemed to be ahead of Colter. The white banks continue on both sides of the river. There are plenty of grapes that taste great.
[Clark, September 4, 1804]
4th of September Tuesday 1804. a verry Cold wind from South E. by S. we Set out early proceeded on to the mouth of a Small Creek in the bend to the L. S. Called white line at 11/2 miles furthr passed the mouth of a R au platte or White paint Cr about 25 yd. on Same Side Called, I walked on the top of the hill forming a Cliff Covd. with red Ceeder an extensive view from this hill, at 3 Miles from the Creek the high land jut the river forming a Bluff of Bluish Clay Continu 11/2 miles Came to at the mouth of Qui courre (rapid) this river Comes roleing its Sands whuch (is corse) into the Missouris from the S W by W. this river is 152 yards across the water and not exeeding 4 feet Deep it does not rise high when it Does it Spreds over a large Surface, and is not navagable it has a Great many Small Islands & Sand bars I went up this river 3 miles to the Spot the Panis once had a large Village on the upper Side in a butifull extensive Plain riseing gradially from the river I fel into a Buffalow road joined the boat late at night at the Pania Island.
4th of September, Tuesday 1804. A very cold wind from the southeast. We set out early and continued on to the mouth of a small creek in the bend to the left side, called White Line, about 1.5 miles further on. We passed the mouth of a river called Au Platte or White Paint Creek, about 25 yards on the same side. I walked on top of the hill that forms a cliff covered with red cedar, which offered an extensive view from this elevation. At 3 miles from the creek, the high land juts out into the river, forming a bluff of bluish clay. Continuing for another 1.5 miles, we arrived at the mouth of Qui Courre (Rapid). This river comes rolling its coarse sands into the Missouri from the southwest by west. The river is 152 yards across and no more than 4 feet deep. It doesn’t rise high; when it does, it spreads over a large surface and isn’t navigable. There are many small islands and sandbars. I went up this river for 3 miles to the spot where the Pawnees once had a large village on the upper side in a beautiful, extensive plain rising gradually from the river. I fell into a buffalo road and joined the boat late at night at Pania Island.
[Clark, September 4, 1804]
4th September Tuesday 1804 a verry Cold wind from the S. S. E, we Set out early and proceeded on the mouth of a Small Creek in a bend to the L. S. Called White lime, at 11/2 miles higher up passed a large Creek on the L. S. Called or white paint between those two Creeks (the latter of which is abt. 30 yds. wide) we passed under a Bluff of red Ceeder, at 4 mes. 1/2 passed the mouth of the River Que Courre (rapid R) on the L. S. and Came to a Short distance above, this River is 152 yards wide at the mouth & 4 feet Deep Throwing out Sands like the Platt (only Corser) forming bars in its mouth, I went up this river three miles to a butifull Plain on the upper Side where the Panias once had a Village this river widens above its mouth and is devided by Sand and Islands, the Current verry rapid, not navagable for even Canoos without Great dificulty owing to its Sands; the colour like that of the Plat is light the heads of this river is not known, it Corns into the Missourie from the S. W. by West, and I am told that is Genl. Course Some distance up is parrelel with the Missourie
4th September Tuesday 1804, a very cold wind coming from the S.S.E. We set out early and made our way to the mouth of a small creek in a bend on the left side, called White Lime. At 1.5 miles further, we passed a large creek on the left side, known as White Paint. Between these two creeks (the latter of which is about 30 yards wide), we passed under a bluff of red cedar. At 4.5 miles, we reached the mouth of the River Que Courre (Rapid River) on the left side and moved a short distance above it. This river is 152 yards wide at the mouth and 4 feet deep, throwing out sands like the Platte (though coarser), forming bars at its entrance. I traveled up this river three miles to a beautiful plain on the upper side where the Panias once had a village. This river widens above its mouth and is divided by sandbars and islands; the current is very rapid, making it not navigable for even canoes without significant difficulty due to the sands. The color of the water is light, similar to that of the Platte. The source of this river is unknown; it flows into the Missouri from the S.W. by West, and I’ve been told that its general course, some distance upstream, runs parallel to the Missouri.
[Clark, September 5, 1804]
5th September 1804 Wednesday, Set out early the wind blew hard from the South as it has for Some Days past, we Set up a jury mast & Sailed, I saw a large gangue of Turkeys, also Grous Seen Passed a large Island of about 3 miles long in the Middle of the river opposit the head of this Island the Poncarre River Coms into the Missourei on the L. S.—the S. S is a Clift under which great numbers of Springs run out of mineral water, Saw Several wild goats on the Clift & Deer with black tales,- Sent Shields & Gibson to the Poncas Towns, which is Situated on the Ponca river on the lower side about two miles from its mouth in an open butifull Plain, at this time this nation is out hunting the biffalow they raise no corn or Beens, Gibson killed a Buffalow in the Town, The two men which has been absent several Days is ahead, we came to on the upper pt. of a large Island at 3 oClock to make a mast Sent out Some hunters on the Island (which I call no preserve Island, at this place we used the last of our Preservs) They killed 3 bucks, & two Elk which welurked
5th September 1804, Wednesday. We set out early as the wind blew hard from the south, just like it had for the past few days. We set up a jury mast and sailed. I saw a large group of turkeys and also some grouse. We passed a big island about 3 miles long in the middle of the river. Opposite the head of this island, the Poncarre River joins the Missouri on the left side. The south side has a cliff with many springs flowing mineral water. I saw several wild goats on the cliff and deer with black tails. I sent Shields and Gibson to the Ponca towns, located on the Ponca River about two miles from its mouth in a beautiful open plain. Right now, this nation is out hunting buffalo; they don’t grow any corn or beans. Gibson killed a buffalo in the town. The two men who had been away for several days are ahead. We stopped on the upper part of a large island at 3 o’clock to make a mast. I sent out some hunters on the island (which I call No Preserve Island). Here, we used the last of our preserves. They killed 3 bucks and 2 elk, which were lurking.
[Clark, September 5, 1804]
September 5th Wednesday 1804 Set out early the winds blew hard from the South, Goats turkeys Seen to day, passed a large Island (1) opsd. this Island near the head the Poncasar River Coms into the Missourie from the West this river is about 30 yards wide. dispatched two men to the Poncaries Village Situated in a handsom Plain on the lower Side of this Creek about two miles from the Missourie (the Poncasars nation is Small and at this time out in the praries hunting the Buffalow), one of the men Sent to the Village Killed a Buffalow in the town, the other, a large Buck near it, Some Sign of the two men who is a head.
September 5th, Wednesday, 1804. We set out early, with strong winds blowing from the south. We saw goats and turkeys today and passed a large island (1). Opposite this island, the Poncasar River flows into the Missouri from the west; this river is about 30 yards wide. I sent two men to the Poncaries Village, which is located in a nice plain on the lower side of this creek, about two miles from the Missouri. (The Poncasars are a small nation and are currently out in the prairies hunting buffalo.) One of the men I sent to the village killed a buffalo in town, while the other took down a large buck nearby. There are some signs of the two men who are ahead.
above the Island on the S. S We passed under a Bluff of Blue earth, under which Seveal Mineral Springs broke out of the water of which had a taste like Salts, we Came too on the upper point of a large Island (which I call No preserves Island) here we made a Ceeder Mast, our hunters brought in three bucks, and two elks this evening which we had jurked
On the S.S., we passed under a bluff of blue earth, where several mineral springs gushed out of the water, tasting like salts. We docked at the upper point of a large island (which I call No Preserves Island). Here, we made a cedar mast, and our hunters brought in three bucks and two elks this evening, which we had jerked.
One of the hunter Shields, informed that he Saw Several black tailed Deer, near the Poncaser Village
One of the hunters, Shields, reported that he saw several black-tailed deer near the Poncaser Village.
[Lewis, September 5, 1804]
Sept 5th saw some wild goats or antelopes on the hill above the Glauber Salts Springs they ran off we could not discover them sufficiently distinctly to discribe even their colour their track is as large as a deer reather broader & more blont at the point
Sept 5th, we spotted some wild goats or antelopes on the hill above the Glauber Salts Springs. They ran off before we could get a good look at them to even describe their color. Their tracks are about the size of a deer’s, but broader and more blunt at the tip.
This day one of our hunters brought us a Serpent beautifully variagated with small black spotts of a romboydal form on a light yellow white ground the black pedominates most on the back the whiteis yellow on the sides, and it is nearly white on the belly with a few party couloured scuta on which the black shews but imperfectly and the colouring matter seems to be underneath the Scuta—it is not poisonous it hisses remarkably loud; it has 221 Scuta on the belly and 51 on the tale, the eyes are of a dark black colour the tale terminates in a sharp point like the substance of a cock's spur—Length 4 Ft. 6 I.
Today, one of our hunters brought us a snake that was beautifully patterned with small black spots in a round shape on a light yellow-white background. The black is most prominent on the back, while the white has a yellow tint on the sides, and the belly is nearly white with a few multicolored scales where the black shows up but not very clearly. The coloring appears to be beneath the scales—it's not poisonous and hisses quite loudly. It has 221 scales on the belly and 51 on the tail, and its eyes are a dark black color. The tail ends in a sharp point like a rooster's spur—Length: 4 Feet 6 Inches.
[Clark, September 6, 1804]
6th Septr Thursday 1804, a Storm this morning from the N W. at day light which lasted a fiew minits, Set out after the Storm was over and proceeded on a hard wind ahead passed the island which is Seperated from the L. Side by a narrow Channel. the morning is verry Cold.
6th Septr Thursday 1804, a storm this morning from the NW at daylight, which lasted a few minutes. We set out after the storm was over and continued on with a strong headwind, passing the island that is separated from the left side by a narrow channel. The morning is very cold.
Camped on S. Side before night no timbering in reach ahead, R. Fields killed 2 Deer Saw Buffalow, & Goats this evening, the river riseing a little
Camped on the S. Side before night, no timber in reach ahead. R. Fields killed 2 deer, saw buffalo and goats this evening. The river is rising a little.
[Clark, September 6, 1804]
Septr. 6th Thursday 1804 a Storm this morning from the N. W. which lasted a fiew minits, we Set out and proceeded on passed the head of the Isd. which is Seperated from the L. S by a narrow Channel, a hard wind from the N. W. a verry Cold day—we Camped on the S. S. at the upper point of Some timber, Some time before night, no timber, no timber being in reach.
Sept. 6th, Thursday, 1804: We had a storm this morning from the northwest that lasted a few minutes. We set out and continued on, passing the head of the island, which is separated from the mainland by a narrow channel. It was a very cold day with a strong wind from the northwest. We camped on the south side at the upper point of some timber, some time before night, with no timber available within reach.
I saw Several goats on the hills on the S. S. also Buffalow in great numbers
I saw several goats on the hills and also many buffalo.
[Clark, September 7, 1804]
7th September Friday 1804. a verry Cold morning Set out at Day light
7th September Friday 1804. A very cold morning. Set out at daylight.
near the foot of this high Nole we discovered a Village of an annamale the french Call the Prarie Dog which burrow in the grown & with the rattle Snake and Killed one & Caught one Dog alive caught in a whole 2 frogs near the hole Killed a Dark Rattle Snake with a Prairie dog in him
near the foot of this high Nole, we found a village of an animal the French call the Prairie Dog, which burrows in the ground. We killed one and caught another dog alive, along with two frogs near the hole. We also killed a dark rattlesnake that had a prairie dog inside it.
The Village of those little dogs is under the ground a conisiderable distance we dig under 6 feet thro rich hard clay without getting to their Lodges Some of their wholes we put in 5 barrels of water without driveing them out, we caught one by the water forceing him out. ther mouth resemble the rabit, head longer, legs short, & toe nails
The village of those little dogs is underground a considerable distance. We’ve dug down over 6 feet through rich, hard clay without reaching their lodges. In some of their holes, we poured in 5 barrels of water without driving them out. We caught one by forcing it out with the water. Their mouths are similar to a rabbit's, with longer heads, short legs, and toe nails.
long ther tail like a ground Squirel which they Shake and make chattering noise ther eyes like a dog, their colour is Gray and Skin contains Soft fur
long their tail like a ground squirrel which they shake and make chattering noise their eyes like a dog, their color is gray and skin contains soft fur
[Clark, September 7, 1804]
7th Septr. 1804 Septr. 7th Friday a verry Cold morning Set out at day light we landed after proceding 51/2 miles, near the foot of a round mounting which I saw yesterday resembling a dome.
7th Septr. 1804 Septr. 7th Friday a very cold morning. We set out at daybreak and landed after traveling 5.5 miles, near the base of a round mountain that I saw yesterday, which looked like a dome.
Capt Lewis & my Self walked up, to the top which forms a Cone and is about 70 feet higher than the high lands around it, the Bass is about 300 foot in decending this Cupola, discovered a Village of Small animals that burrow in the grown (those animals are Called by the french Pitite Chien) Killed one & Cought one a live by poreing a great quantity of water in his hole we attempted to dig to the beds of one of thos animals, after diging 6 feet, found by running a pole down that we were not half way to his Lodges, we found 2 frogs in the hole, and killed a Dark rattle Snake near with a Ground rat in him, (those rats are numerous) the Village of those animals Covs. about 4 acrs of Ground on a Gradual decent of a hill and Contains great numbers of holes on the top of which those little animals Set erect make a Whistleing noise and whin allarmed Slip into their hole—we por'd into one of the holes 5 barrels of water without filling it, Those Animals are about the Size of a Small Squrel Shorter & thicker, the head much resembling a Squirel in every respect, except the ears which is Shorter, his tail like a ground Squirel which thy Shake & whistle when allarmd. the toe nails long, they have fine fur & the longer hair is gray, it is Said that a kind of Lizard also a Snake reside with those animals. Camped
Capt. Lewis and I walked to the top, which forms a cone and is about 70 feet higher than the surrounding highlands. The descent from this peak is about 300 feet. We discovered a village of small animals that burrow in the ground (the French call these animals "Pitite Chien"). I killed one and caught another alive by pouring a large amount of water into its hole. We tried to dig down to reach the beds of one of these animals and, after digging 6 feet, found by running a pole down that we were not even halfway to its lodge. We found 2 frogs in the hole and killed a dark rattlesnake nearby that had a ground rat inside it (those rats are numerous). The village of these animals covers about 4 acres of ground on a gradual slope of a hill and contains many holes. On top of these holes, the little animals sit upright, make a whistling noise, and when alarmed, slip into their holes. We poured 5 barrels of water into one of the holes without filling it. These animals are about the size of a small squirrel, shorter and thicker, with a head that closely resembles that of a squirrel, except their ears are shorter. Their tail is like that of a ground squirrel, which they shake and whistle when alarmed. Their toenails are long, their fur is fine, and the longer hair is gray. It is said that a kind of lizard and also a snake live among these animals. We camped.
[Lewis and Clark, September 8, 1804]
8th of September 1804 Satturday. Set out early and proceeded on under a Gentle breese from the S. E. at 3 mes passed the place where Trodow wintered one winter
8th of September 1804, Saturday. Left early and moved on with a gentle breeze from the southeast. After 3 miles, passed the spot where Trodow wintered one season.
I went out to day on the S. S with a view to find Some of the little dogs, and Coats, Traveled over a riged and mountanious Countrey without water & riseing to 5 or 600 hundred feet, Islands & Sands interveneing prevt. my getting to the boat untill after night, in my absent Capt. Lewis killed a Buffalow, I saw Greid many Buffalow & white wolves. (Sailed all day)
I went out today on the S. S. to look for some of the little dogs and coats. I traveled over a rugged and mountainous area without water, rising up to 500 or 600 feet, with islands and sandbars in the way preventing me from reaching the boat until after dark. While I was gone, Captain Lewis killed a buffalo. I saw a ton of buffalo and white wolves. (Sailed all day)
[Clark, September 8, 1804]
8th of September Satturday Set out early and proceeded on under a gentle Breeze from the S. E, at 3 mes. passed the house of Troodo where he wintered in 96. Called the Pania house, above is high hills on the S. S. on the S. S. much higher hills than usial appear to the North distant 8 miles recently burnt- pass 3 Small Islands at about 5 miles on this Course on the S. S. here Capt. Lewis Killed a Buffalow in the river, and this men one other Came to on the lower point of an Island in the midlle of the river Called Boat Island and incamped, jurked the meet Killed to day Consisting of 2 buffalow, one large Buck Elk one Small, 4 Deer 3 Turkeys & a Squirel, I joined the boat at this Camp, The Countrey on the S S. is pore & broken.
8th of September Saturday Set out early and continued on under a gentle breeze from the southeast. After 3 miles, passed the house of Troodo where he wintered in '96. It's called the Pania house; above it are high hills on the south side. On the south side, much higher hills than usual can be seen to the north, about 8 miles away, recently burned. Passed 3 small islands about 5 miles down this course on the south side. Here, Capt. Lewis killed a buffalo in the river, and two of his men came to the lower point of an island in the middle of the river, called Boat Island, and set up camp. They jerked the meat killed today, which included 2 buffalo, one large buck elk, one small elk, 4 deer, 3 turkeys, and a squirrel. I joined the boat at this camp. The country on the south side is poor and broken.
[Clark and Whitehouse, September 9, 1804]
9th Septembr Sunday, Set out at Sunrise and proceeded on passed the Island Several gangus of Buffalow on the Sides of the hils on the L. S. halted on L. Side took breakfast. Capt. Clark walked on Shore, we proceeded on
9th September, Sunday, set out at sunrise and continued on past the island. Several groups of buffalo were on the hills on the left side. We stopped on the left side and had breakfast. Captain Clark walked along the shore while we continued on.
R. Fields came to the Boat had killed one Buffalow. passed red ceeder on the edge of the hills on bouth Sides of the river but most on the bluff on
R. Fields came to the Boat and killed one buffalo. He passed by red cedar on the edge of the hills on both sides of the river, but mostly on the bluff.
[Clark, September 9, 1804]
9th September Sunday 1804 Set out at Sunrise and proceeded on passed the head of the Island on which we Camped, passed three Sand & willow Islands, the Sand bars So noumerous, it is not worth mentioning them, the river Shoal or Shallow wind S E Came too and Camped on a Sand bar on the L. S. Capt Lewis went out to Kill a buffalow. I walked on Shore all this evening with a view to Kill a Goat or Some Prarie Dogs in the evening after the boat landed, I Derected my Servent York with me to kill a Buffalow near the boat from a numbr. then Scattered in the plains, I saw at one view near the river at least 500 Buffalow, those animals have been in view all day feeding in the Plains on the L. S. every Copse of timber appear to have Elk or Deer. D. Killed 3 Deer, I Kiled a Buffalow Y. 2, R. Fields one.
9th September Sunday 1804 Set out at sunrise and continued on, passing the head of the island where we camped, and then three sand and willow islands. There were so many sandbars that it isn’t worth mentioning them. The river shallowed and the wind came from the southeast. We stopped and camped on a sandbar on the left side. Captain Lewis went out to hunt a buffalo. I walked along the shore all evening with the intention of hunting a goat or some prairie dogs. After the boat landed, I directed my servant York to hunt a buffalo near the boat from a group that was scattered across the plains. I saw at least 500 buffalo in one view near the river; those animals had been visible all day, feeding in the plains on the left side. Every cluster of trees seemed to have elk or deer. D. killed 3 deer, I killed a buffalo, Y. 2, R. Fields one.
[Lewis, September 9, 1804]
Sept. 9th Capt. Clark found on the Lard shore under a high bluff issuing from a blue earth a bittuminus matter resembling molasses in consistance, colour and taste-
Sept. 9th Capt. Clark found on the Lard shore under a high bluff coming from a blue earth a bituminous substance similar to molasses in consistency, color, and taste-
[Clark, September 10, 1804]
10th September Monday a Cloudy morning Set out early under a Gentle Breeze from the S E. passed two Small Islands one on the L. S. & the other on the S. S. both in the first Course at 101/2 miles passed the lower pt. of Ceder Island Situated in a bend to the L. S. this Island is about 2 miles long Covered with red Ceder, the river is verry Shallow opsd. this Island—below the Island on the top of a ridge we found a back bone with the most of the entire laying Connected for 45 feet those bones are petrified, Some teeth & ribs also Connected. at 3 mes. above ceder I passed a large Island on the S. S. to this Island Several Elk Swam above this Island on the Midle is Situated 2 Islands small one above the other, those Islands are Called mud Islands and camped on the upper Island of them 3 Buffalow 1 Elk &c. Killed to day, river falling a large Salt Spring of remarkable Salt water much frequented by Buffalow, Some Smaller Springs on the Side of the hill above less Salt, the water excesiv Salt, and is 11/2 miles from the river on the S. W. or L. S. opposit Ceder Island-
10th September, Monday - a cloudy morning. Set out early under a gentle breeze from the southeast. Passed two small islands, one on the left side and the other on the right. Both were in the first course at 10.5 miles. Passed the lower point of Cedar Island, which is located in a bend on the left side. This island is about 2 miles long and covered with red cedar. The river is very shallow opposite this island. Below the island, on top of a ridge, we found a backbone with most of the entire length connected for 45 feet; those bones are petrified. Some teeth and ribs were also connected. At 3 miles above Cedar, I passed a large island on the right side. Several elk swam above this island. In the middle, there are two small islands, one above the other; these are called Mud Islands, and we camped on the upper island. We killed 3 buffalo, 1 elk, etc., today. The river is falling, and there’s a large salt spring with notable salt water, frequently visited by buffalo. There are some smaller springs on the side of the hill above, which are less salty. The water is extremely salty and is 1.5 miles from the river on the southwest or left side, opposite Cedar Island.
[Clark, September 10, 1804]
10th September Monday 1804. a Cloudy dark morning Set out early, a Gentle breeze from the S. E, passed two Small Islands on the L. S. and one on the S. S. all in the first Course at 101/2 miles passed the lower point of an (2) Island Covered with red Ceeder Situated in a bend on the L. S. this Island is about 2 Moles in length (1) below this on a hill on the L. S. we found the back bone of a fish, 45 feet long tapering to the tale, &c. those joints were Seperated and all petrefied, opposit this Island 11/2 miles from the river on the L. S. is a large Salt Spring of remarkable Salt water. one other high up the hill 1/2 me. not So Salt.
10th September, Monday, 1804. It was a cloudy, dark morning. We set out early with a gentle breeze from the southeast. We passed two small islands on the left side and one on the right, all within the first course at 10.5 miles. We passed the lower point of an island covered with red cedar situated in a bend on the left side. This island is about 2 miles long. Below this, on a hill on the left side, we found the backbone of a fish, 45 feet long, tapering to the tail, etc. The joints were separated and all petrified. Opposite this island, 1.5 miles from the river on the left side, there is a large salt spring with remarkable salty water, and one other, higher up the hill, 0.5 miles away, which is not as salty.
we proceeded on under a Stiff Breeze. three miles above Ceder Island passed a large Island on the S. S, no water on that Side (3) Several elk Swam to this Island passed a Small Island near the Center of the river, of a mile in length, and Camped on one aboav Seperated from the other by a narrow Chanel, Those Islands are Called Mud Islands—the hunters killed 3 fuffalow & one Elk to day. The river is falling a little, Great number of Buffalow & Elk on the hill Sides feeding deer Scerce
We continued on with a strong breeze. Three miles above Cedar Island, we passed a large island on the south side, with no water on that side. Several elk swam to this island, and we passed a small island near the center of the river, about a mile long, and camped on one just above, separated from the other by a narrow channel. Those islands are called Mud Islands. The hunters killed three buffalo and one elk today. The river is dropping a bit, and there are a lot of buffalo and elk feeding on the hillsides, but deer are scarce.
we came too at the mouth of a Creek on the L. S. at Dark in a heavy Shower of rain, it Continued to rain the greater part of the night, with a hard wind from the N W Cold
we woke up at the mouth of a creek on the L. S. at night during a heavy downpour. It rained for most of the night, along with a cold, hard wind from the northwest.
[Clark, September 11, 1804]
Septr. 11th Tuesday 1804 Set out early a Cloudy morning the river verry wide from one hill to the other, with many Sand bars passed the Isd. on which we lay at a mile passed three Isds. one on the L. S. (1/4 of a mile from it on the L. S. a village of little Dogs. I Killed four, this village is 800 yards wide & 970 yds. long on a jentle Slope of a hill in a plain, those animals are noumerous) the other two Islands are on the S. S. the river is verry Shallow & wide, the boat got a ground Several times—The man G Shannon, who left us with the horses above the Mahar Village, and beleving us to be ahead pushed on as long as he Could, joined us he Shot away what fiew Bullets he had with him, and in a plentiful) Countrey like to have Starvd. he was 12 days without provision, Subsisting on Grapes at the Same the Buffalow, would Come within 30 yards of his Camp, one of his horses gave out & he left him before his last belluts were Consumed—I saw 3 large Spoted foxes today a black tailed Deer, & Killed a Buck elk & 2 Deer, one othr Elk 2 Deer & a Porkipine Killed to day at 12 oClock it became Cloudy and rained all the after noon, & night.
Sept. 11th, Tuesday, 1804 We set out early on a cloudy morning. The river is very wide, stretching from one hill to the other, with many sandbars. We passed the island where we camped, a mile past three islands; one on the left side (a quarter mile from it on the left side there's a village of little dogs. I killed four. This village is 800 yards wide and 970 yards long, on a gentle slope of a hill in a plain; those animals are numerous). The other two islands are on the south side. The river is very shallow and wide, and the boat ran aground several times. The man G. Shannon, who left us with the horses above the Mahar village, thinking we were ahead, pushed on as long as he could. He joined us after shooting away what few bullets he had with him, and in a plentiful country, he nearly starved. He was 12 days without provisions, living on grapes the whole time. The buffalo would come within 30 yards of his camp. One of his horses broke down, and he left it before his last bullets were gone. I saw three large spotted foxes today, a black-tailed deer, and I killed a buck elk and two deer; additionally, another elk, two deer, and a porcupine were killed today. At 12 o'clock, it became cloudy, and it rained all afternoon and night.
[Clark, September 11, 1804]
Sept. 11th Tuesday 1804 a cloudy morning, Set out verry early, the river wide & Shallow the bottom narrow, & the river Crouded with Sand bars, passed the Island on which we lay at one mile-, pased three Islands one on the L. S. and 2 on the S. S. opposit the Island on the L. S. I Saw a village of Barking Squriel 970 yds. long, and 800 yds. wide Situated on a gentle Slope of a hill, those anamals are noumerous, I killed 4 with a view to have their Skins Stufed.
Sept. 11th, Tuesday 1804, a cloudy morning. Set out very early; the river is wide and shallow, the bottom is narrow, and the river is crowded with sandbars. Passed the island where we camped, one mile in. Passed three islands: one on the left side and two on the right side. Across from the island on the left side, I saw a village of barking squirrels, 970 yards long and 800 yards wide, situated on a gentle slope of a hill. These animals are numerous; I killed four with the intention of having their skins stuffed.
here the man who left us with the horses 22 days ago and has been a head ever Since joined, us nearly Starved to Death, he had been 12 days without any thing to eate but Grapes & one Rabit, which he Killed by shooting a piece of hard Stick in place of a ball-. This man Supposeing the boat to be a head pushed on as long as he Could, when he became weak and fiable deturmined to lay by and waite for a tradeing boat, which is expected Keeping one horse for the last resorse,—thus a man had like to have Starved to death in a land of Plenty for the want of Bulletes or Something to kill his meat we Camped on the L. S. above the mouth of a run a hard rain all the after noon, & most of the night, with hard wind from the N W. I walked on Shore the fore part of this day over Some broken Country which Continus about 3 miles back & then is leavel & rich all Plains, I saw Several foxes & Killed a Elk & 2 Deer. & Squirels the men with me killed an Elk, 2 Deer & a Pelican
Here’s the man who left us with the horses 22 days ago and has been ahead of us ever since. He nearly starved to death; he had gone 12 days with nothing to eat except grapes and one rabbit, which he killed by shooting a hard stick instead of a bullet. This man, thinking the boat was ahead, pushed on as far as he could, but when he became weak and shaky, he decided to stop and wait for a trading boat that was expected. He kept one horse as a last resort. It’s crazy that a man almost starved in a land of plenty just because he didn't have bullets or something to kill his food. We camped on the left side above the mouth of a creek, and there was a heavy rain all afternoon and most of the night, with strong winds from the northwest. I walked on shore in the first part of the day over some rough terrain that continued for about 3 miles, and then it became flat and rich plains. I saw several foxes and killed an elk and 2 deer, while the men with me killed another elk, 2 deer, and a pelican.
Some rain all day to day & Cold
Some rain all day today & cold.
I walked on Shore Saw Several foxes Several Villages of Prarie dogs, and a number of Grouse
I walked along the shore and saw several foxes, a few prairie dog villages, and a number of grouse.
[Clark, September 12, 1804]
Septr. 12th Wednesday 1804 a Dark Cloudy Day the wind hard from the N. W. we passed (1) a Island the middle of the river at the head of which we found great dificuelty in passing between the Sand bars the water Swift and Shallow, it took 3/4 of the day to make one mile, we Camped on the L. S. opsd. a Village of Barking Prarie Squriels
Sept. 12th, Wednesday, 1804. It was a dark, cloudy day with a strong wind from the northwest. We passed an island in the middle of the river, where we encountered significant challenges navigating between the sandbars; the water was fast and shallow. It took us three-quarters of the day to travel just one mile. We camped on the left side opposite a village of barking prairie squirrels.
I walked out in the morning and Saw Several Villages of those little animals, also a great number of Grous & 3 foxes, and observed Slate & Coal mixed, Some verry high hills on each Side of the river. rains a little all day.
I stepped outside in the morning and saw several villages of those little animals, along with a lot of grouse and three foxes. I noticed slate and coal mixed together, with some really high hills on each side of the river. It rained a little all day.
[Clark, September 13, 1804]
13th Septr. Thursday 1804 a Dark Drizzley Day, G D Cought 4 Beaver last night the winds from the N W. Cold Set out early and proceeded on verry well passed a number of Sand bars, Capt Lewis killed a Porcupin on a Cotton treee fieeding on the leaves & bowers of the Said tree, the water is verry Shallow being Crouded with Sand bars Camped on the S. Side under a Bluff. the Bluffs on the S. S. not So much impregnated with mineral as on the L. S. muskeetors verry troublesom-.
13th Sep. Thursday 1804 A dark, drizzly day. G.D. caught 4 beavers last night. The wind is coming from the northwest and it’s cold. We set out early and made good progress, passing several sandbars. Captain Lewis killed a porcupine in a cotton tree, eating the leaves and branches of the tree. The water is very shallow and crowded with sandbars. We camped on the south side under a bluff. The bluffs on the south side aren’t as mineral-rich as those on the left side. Mosquitoes are very bothersome.
[Lewis, September 13, 1804]
September 13th Killed a bluewinged teal and a Porcupine; found it in a Cottonwood tree near the river on the Lard. Shore—the leaves of the Cottonwood were much distroyed—as were those of the Cottonwood trees in it's neighbourhood. I therefore supposed that it fed on the folage of trees at this season, the flesh of this anamal is a pleasant and whoalsome food—the quills had not yet obtained their usual length—it has four long toes, before on each foot, and the same number behind with the addition of one short one on each hind foot on the inner side. the toes of the feet are armed with long black nails particularly the fore feet- they weigh from 15 to 20 lbs—they resemble the slowth very much in the form of their hands, or fore feet. their teeth and eyes are like the bever
September 13th I killed a blue-winged teal and a porcupine; I found it in a cottonwood tree near the river on the Lard shore—the leaves of the cottonwood were quite damaged—as were those of the cottonwood trees nearby. I assumed it was eating the foliage of trees at this time of year. The meat of this animal is tasty and healthy—the quills had not yet grown to their usual length. It has four long toes in front on each foot, and the same number behind, plus one short toe on each hind foot on the inner side. The toes of the feet have long black nails, especially the front feet. They weigh between 15 to 20 lbs and closely resemble sloths in the shape of their hands or front feet. Their teeth and eyes are similar to those of a beaver.
[Clark, September 14, 1804]
Septr 14th Friday 1804 Course Dists & rifur. Set out early proceeded on passed Several Sand bars water wide & Shallow N. 68° W. 23/4 mes. to a pt. of high Land on the L. S. passed a round Island on the S S.—Caught 3 beaver last night, Some drizzeley rain Cloudy & Disagreeable and Som hard Showers, I walked on Shore with a view to find an old Volcano Said to be in this neghbourhood by Mr. McKey I was Some distance out Could not See any Signs of a Volcanoe, I killed a Goat, which is peculier to this Countrey about the hite of a Grown Deer Shorter, its horns Coms out immediately abov its eyes broad 1 Short prong the other arched & Soft the color is a light gray with black behind its ears, white round its neck, no beard, his Sides & belly white, and around its taile which is Small & white and Down its hams, actively made his brains on the back of its head, his noisterals large, his eyes like a Sheep only 2 hoofs on each foot no antelrs (more like the antelope or gazella of Africa than any other Specis of Goat). Shields Killed a Hare weighing 61/2 lb. verry pore, the head narrow and its ears 3 Inches wide and 6 long, from the fore to the end of the hind foot; is 2 feet 11 Inch. hite 1 foot 13/4 its tail long & thick white, clearly the mountain Hare of Europe, a rainy evening all wett The Soil of those Plains washes down into the flats, with the Smallest rain & disolves & mixes with the water we See back from the river high hills in a leavel plain, evidently the remains of mountains, what mud washed into the river within those few days has made it verry mudy, passed two Small Creeks on the L. S. & Camped below a 3rd on the L. S. rained all evening
Sept 14th, Friday 1804 We set out early and proceeded on, passing several sandbars where the water was wide and shallow. We traveled N. 68° W. for 2.75 miles to a point of high land on the left side. We went past a round island on the south side. Last night, we caught three beavers. The weather was drizzly, cloudy, and unpleasant, with some heavy showers. I walked along the shore hoping to find an old volcano that Mr. McKey mentioned might be in the area. I got quite far out but couldn’t see any signs of a volcano. I killed a goat, which is unique to this region; it was about the height of a grown deer but shorter. Its horns protrude right above its eyes, are broad, one with a short prong and the other arched and soft. The color is a light gray with black behind the ears, white around the neck, with no beard. Its sides and belly are white, and around its small white tail and down its hams. It had a distinct structure with large nostrils and eyes similar to a sheep. It had only two hooves on each foot and no antlers, resembling the antelope or gazelle of Africa more than any other type of goat. Shields killed a hare that weighed 6.5 lbs; it was very poor. Its head was narrow, with ears 3 inches wide and 6 inches long. From the fore to the end of the hind foot, it measured 2 feet 11 inches, with a height of 1 foot 1.75 inches. Its tail was long, thick, and white, clearly identifying it as the mountain hare of Europe. It was a rainy evening, and everything was wet. The soil from those plains washes down into the flats with even the slightest rain, dissolving and mixing with the water we see moving back from the river, high hills in a flat plain, evidently remnants of mountains. The mud that washed into the river over the past few days has made it very muddy. We passed two small creeks on the left side and camped below a third on the left side while it rained all evening.
[Clark, September 14, 1804]
14th Septr. Friday 1804. Set out early proceeded on passed Several Sand bars the river wide and Shallow 3 beaver Caught last night, Drizeley rain in the forepart of this day, cloudy and disagreeable, I walked on Shore with a view to find an old Vulcanio, Said to be in this neighbourhood by Mr. J. McKey of St. Charles. I walked on Shore the whole day without Seeing any appearance of the Villcanoe, in my walk I Killed a Buck Goat of this Countrey, about the hight. of the Grown Deer, its body Shorter, the Horns which is not very hard and forks 2/3 up one prong Short the other round & Sharp arched, and is imediately above its Eyes the Colour is a light gray with black behind its ears down its neck, and its Jaw white round its neck, its Sides and its rump round its tail which is Short & white verry actively made, has only a pair of hoofs to each foot. his brains on the back of his head, his Norstral large, his eyes like a Sheep—he is more like the Antilope or Gazella of Africa than any other Species of Goat. Shields Killed a Hare like the mountain hare of Europe, waighing 61/4 pounds (altho pore) his head narrow, its ears large i, e, 6 Inches long & 3 Inchs wide one half of each white, the other & out part a lead grey from the toe of the hind foot to toe of the for foot is 2 feet 11 Inches, the hith is 1 foot 1 Inche & 3/4, his tail long thick & white.
September 14, 1804, Friday. We set out early and made our way past several sandbars; the river is wide and shallow. We caught three beavers last night. It drizzled rain in the morning, making it cloudy and uncomfortable. I walked along the shore hoping to find an old volcano, as mentioned by Mr. J. McKey of St. Charles. I walked all day without seeing any signs of the volcano. During my walk, I killed a buck goat from this region, about the height of a grown deer, but with a shorter body. Its horns aren't very hard and fork two-thirds of the way up: one prong is short while the other is round and sharply arched, located just above its eyes. The color of the goat is light gray with black behind its ears and down its neck, while its jaw is white. Around its neck, sides, and rump, and its short white tail, it has a very active build, with only a pair of hooves on each foot. It has its brain at the back of its head, large nostrils, and eyes like a sheep—it resembles the antelope or gazelle of Africa more than any other goat species. Shields killed a hare similar to the European mountain hare, weighing 6.25 pounds (though it was poor). Its head is narrow, and its ears are large, about 6 inches long and 3 inches wide; one half of each ear is white, and the outer part is a lead gray. From the toe of the hind foot to the toe of the front foot, it measures 2 feet 11 inches, and its height is 1 foot 1.75 inches. Its tail is long, thick, and white.
The rain Continued the Greater part of the day in My ramble I observed, that all those parts of the hills which was Clear of Grass easily disolved and washed into the river and bottoms, and those hils under which the river run, Sliped into it and disolves and mixes with the water of the river, the bottoms of the river was covered with the water and mud frome the hills about three Inches deep—those bottoms under the hils which is Covered with Grass also a great quantity of mud.
The rain continued for most of the day. During my walk, I noticed that all the areas of the hills that were bare of grass easily eroded and washed into the river and floodplains. The hills beneath which the river flowed slipped into it, dissolving and mixing with the water. The riverbanks were covered with water and mud from the hills, about three inches deep. The areas under the hills that are covered with grass also had a significant amount of mud.
Passed 2 Small Creeks on the L. S and Camped below the third, (the place that Shannon the man who went a head lived on grapes) Some heavy Showers of rain all wet, had the Goat & rabit Stufed rained all night
Passed 2 small creeks on the left side and camped below the third (the spot where Shannon, the guy who went ahead, lived off grapes). Some heavy rain showers soaked us, and the goat and rabbit were stuffed; it rained all night.
[Lewis, September 14, 1804]
September 14th 1804 this day Capt. Clark killed a male wild goat so called—it's weight 65 lbs.
September 14th, 1804: Today, Capt. Clark killed a male wild goat, so named—it weighed 65 lbs.
F I
length from point of nose to point of tail 4 9
hight to the top of the wethers 3 -
do. behind 3 -
girth of the brest 3 1
girth of the neck close to the shoulders 2 2
do. near the head 1 7
F I length from point of nose to point of tail 4 9 height to the top of the wethers 3 - do. behind 3 - girth of the breast 3 1 girth of the neck close to the shoulders 2 2 do. near the head 1 7
Eye deep sea green, large percing and reather prominent, & at or near the root of the horn within one 1/4 inches
Eye deep sea green, large, piercing, and rather prominent, and at or near the root of the horn within 1/4 inches
[Lewis, September 14, 1804]
Sept. 14th 1804. Shields killed a hare of the prarie, weight six pounds and 1/4
Sept. 14th, 1804. Shields killed a prairie hare weighing six and a quarter pounds.
F. I.
Length from point of hind to extremity fore feet 2 11
hight when standing erect 1 1 3/4
length from nose to tale 2 1
girth of body 1 2 3/4
length of tale
length of the year — 5 1/2
width of do. do. — 3 1/8
from the extremity of the hip to the toe of the hind foot 1 3 1/2
F. I. Length from the back to the tips of the front feet 2 11 Height when standing upright 1 1 3/4 Length from nose to tail 2 1 Girth of body 1 2 3/4 Length of tail Length of the year — 5 1/2 Width of the same — 3 1/8 From the back of the hip to the toe of the hind foot 1 3 1/2
the eye is large and prominent the sight is circular, deep sea green, and occupyes one third of the width of the eye the remaining two thirds is a ring of a bright yellowish silver colour. the years ar placed at the upper part of the head and very near to each other, the years are very flexable, the anamall moves them with great ease and quickness and can contrat and foald them on his back or delate them at pleasure—the front outer foald of the year is a redis brown, the inner foalds or those which ly together when the years are thrown back and wich occupy two thirds of the width of the year is of a clear white colour except one inch at the tip of the year which is black, the hinder foald is of a light grey—the head back sholders and outer part of the thighs are of a ledcoloured grey the sides as they approache the belly grow lighter becomeing gradually more white the belly and brest are white with a shad of lead colour—the furr is long and fine—the tale is white round and blounty pointed the furr on it is long and extreemly fine and soft when it runs it carry's it's tale strait behind the direction of the body—the body is much smaller and more length than the rabbit in proportion to it's height—the teeth are like those of the hair or rabbit as is it's upper lip split—it's food is grass or herbs—it resorts the open plains, is extreemly fleet and never burrows or takes shelter in the ground when pursued, I measured the leaps of one which I suprised in the plains on the 17th Inst. and found them 21 feet the ground was a little decending they apear to run with more ease and to bound with greater agility than any anamall I ever saw. this anamal is usually single seldom associating in any considerable numbers.
The eye is large and prominent, with a circular, deep sea green iris that takes up one third of the eye's width. The remaining two thirds is a ring of bright yellowish-silver. The ears are located at the top of the head and are very close together; they are very flexible, and the animal moves them easily and quickly, able to contract and fold them back or extend them at will. The front outer part of the ear is a reddish-brown, while the inner parts, which lie together when the ears are folded back and occupy two thirds of the ear's width, are a clear white, except for the tip, which is one inch black. The back fold of the ear is light grey. The head, back, shoulders, and outer part of the thighs are a lead-colored grey. As you move towards the belly, the color lightens, gradually becoming more white. The belly and chest are white with a hint of lead color. The fur is long and fine. The tail is white, round, and bluntly pointed, with long, extremely fine and soft fur. When it runs, it carries its tail straight back in line with its body. The body is smaller and longer than that of a rabbit in proportion to its height. The teeth are similar to those of a hare or rabbit, and its upper lip is split. Its diet consists of grass or herbs. It inhabits open plains, is extremely fleet, and never burrows or seeks shelter in the ground when pursued. I measured the leaps of one I surprised in the plains on the 17th and found them to be 21 feet; the ground was slightly sloped. They seem to run with more ease and bound with greater agility than any animal I have ever seen. This animal is usually solitary, rarely associating in large numbers.
[Clark, September 15, 1804]
September the 15th Satturday 1804 Set out early passed the Mouth of a creek on the L S. where Shannon lived on grapes waiting for Mr. Clintens boat Supposeing we had went on, Capt Lewis and my Self halted at the mouth of White River & wend up a Short Crossed &, this river is about 400 yards, the water Confined within 150 yards, the Current regularly Swift, much resembling the Missourie, Sand bars makeing out from the points, Some Islands we Sent up two men to go up this river one Day and Meet us to morrow we proceeded on passed a Small Island Covered with Ceder timber, & great number of rabits, no game except rabits, and Camped on the S. S. opposit a large Creek, on which there is more wood than usial on Creeks in this quaterr this creek raised 14 feet last rain I Killed a Buck elk & a Deer.
September 15th, Saturday, 1804. We set out early, passing the mouth of a creek on the left side where Shannon lived, waiting for Mr. Clinton's boat. Assuming we had moved on, Captain Lewis and I stopped at the mouth of White River and went upstream briefly. This river is about 400 yards wide, with the water confined to 150 yards, and the current is consistently swift, much like the Missouri. Sandbars extend from the points, and there are some islands. We sent two men to go up this river for the day and meet us tomorrow. We continued past a small island covered with cedar trees and a large number of rabbits; no game except rabbits, and camped on the south shore opposite a large creek that has more wood than usual for creeks in this area. This creek rose 14 feet in the last rain. I killed a buck elk and a deer.
[Clark, September 15, 1804]
15th September Satturday 1804 Set out early passed the mo of the Creek, and the mouth of White river; (1) Capt Lewis and my Self went up this river a Short distance and Crossed, found that this differed verry much from the Plat or que Courre, threw out but little Sand, about 300 yard wide, the water confind within 150 yards, the current regular & Swift much resemblig the Missourie, with Sand bars from the points a Sand Island in the mouth, in the point is a butifull Situation for a Town 3 Gradual assents, and a much Greater quantity of timber about the mouth of this river than usial, we concluded to Send Some distance up this river detached Sjt. Gass & R. Fields. we proceeded on passed a Small (2) Island Covered with Ceeder on I Saw great numbers of Rabits & Grapes, this Island is Small & Seperated from a large Sand Isd. at its upper point by a narrow Channel, & is Situated nearest the L. Side. Camped on the S. S. opposit the mouth of a large Creek on which there is more timber than is usial on Creeks of this Size, this Creek raised 14 feet the last rains. I killed a Buck Elk & Deer, this evening is verry Cold, Great many wolves of Different Sorts howling about us. the wind is hard from the N W this evening
15th September Saturday 1804 We set out early, passed the mouth of the Creek and the mouth of White River. (1) Captain Lewis and I went up this river a short distance and crossed it. We found that this river was very different from the map; it had little sand, was about 300 yards wide, and the water was confined within 150 yards. The current was steady and swift, resembling the Missouri, with sandbars from the points and a sand island at the mouth. The location has a beautiful setting for a town, with three gentle slopes and a much greater amount of timber around the mouth of this river than usual. We decided to send some distance up this river, detaching Sergeant Gass and R. Fields. We moved on and passed a small island covered with cedar. I saw many rabbits and grapes. This island is small and separated from a large sand island at its upper point by a narrow channel, and it is situated closest to the left side. We camped on the south side, opposite the mouth of a large creek, which had more timber than is usual for creeks of this size; this creek had risen 14 feet during the last rains. I killed a buck elk and a deer. This evening is very cold, and there are many wolves of different kinds howling around us. The wind is strong from the northwest this evening.
[Lewis, September 16, 1804]
Sunday September 16th 1804. This morning set out at an early hour, and come too at 1/2 after 7 A.M. on the Lard. Shore 11/4 miles above the mouth of a small creek which we named Corvus, in consequence of having kiled a beatiful bird of that genus near it we concluded to ly by at this place the ballance of this day and the next, in order to dry our baggage which was wet by the heavy showers of rain which had fallen within the last three days, and also to lighten the boat by transfering a part of her lading to the red perogue, which we now determined to take on with us to our winter residence wherever that might be; while some of the men were imployed in this necessary labour others were dressing of skins washing and mending their cloaths &c. Capt. Clark and myself kiled each a buck immediately on landing near our encampment; the deer were very gentle and in great numbers on this bottom which had more timber on it than any part of the river we had seen for many days past, consisting of Cottonwood Elm, some indifferent ash and a considerable quanty of a small species of white oak which is loaded with acorns of an excellent flavor very little of the bitter roughness of the nuts of most species of oak, the leaf of this oak is small pale green and deeply indented, it seldom rises higher than thirty feet is much branched, the bark is rough and thick and of a light colour; the cup which contains the acorn is fringed on it's edges and imbraces the nut about one half; the acorns were now falling, and we concluded that the number of deer which we saw here had been induced thither by the acorns of which they are remarkably fond. almost every species of wild game is fond of the acorn, the Buffaloe Elk, deer, bear, turkies, ducks, pigegians and even the wolves feed on them; we sent three hunters out who soon added eight deer and two Buffaloe to our strock of provisions; the Buffaloe were so pour that we took only the tongues skins and marrow bones; the skins were particularly acceptable as we were in want of a covering for the large perogue to secure the baggage; the clouds during this day and night prevented my making any observations. Sergt. Gass and Reubin Fields whom we had sent out yesterday to explore the White river returnd at four oclock this day and reported that they had foil meanders of that stream about 12 miles r's general course West, the present or principal channel iro yards wide; the coulour of the water and rapidity and manner of runing resembled the Missouri presisely; the country broken on the border of the river about a mile, when the level planes commence and extend as far as the eye can reach on either side; as usual no timber appeared except such as from the steep declivities of hills, or their moist situations, were sheltered from the effects of the fire. these extensive planes had been lately birnt and the grass had sprung up and was about three inches high. vast herds of Buffaloe deer Elk and Antilopes were seen feeding in every direction as far as the eye of the observer could reach.
Sunday, September 16th, 1804. This morning we set out early and stopped a little after 7 A.M. on the left shore, about 1.25 miles above the mouth of a small creek that we named Corvus, after we killed a beautiful bird of that kind near it. We decided to stay here for the rest of the day and the next in order to dry our wet gear, which had soaked from the heavy rain over the last three days. We also planned to lighten the boat by transferring some of its load to the red pirogue, which we decided to take with us to our winter camp, wherever that might be. While some of the men worked on this necessary task, others were dressing skins, washing, and mending their clothes, etc. Captain Clark and I each killed a buck right after landing near our camp; the deer were very tame and plentiful in this area, which had more timber than any part of the river we had seen in days. The forest consisted of cottonwood, elm, some poor ash, and a substantial amount of a small species of white oak, which was full of acorns that had an excellent flavor, lacking the bitter roughness of most oak nuts. The leaves of this oak are small, pale green, and deeply lobed; it rarely grows taller than thirty feet, is well-branched, and has rough, thick, light-colored bark. The cup that holds the acorn is fringed at the edges and covers about half of the nut. The acorns were falling now, and we guessed that the large number of deer we saw here had come for them, as they are especially fond of acorns. Almost every type of wild game enjoys acorns: buffalo, elk, deer, bears, turkeys, ducks, pigeons, and even wolves feed on them. We sent out three hunters who quickly added eight deer and two buffalo to our stockpile of provisions; we only took the tongues, skins, and marrow bones from the buffalo because they were so poor. The skins were especially useful because we needed them to cover the large pirogue to protect our gear. The clouds throughout the day and night prevented me from making any observations. Sergeant Gass and Reubin Fields, whom we sent out yesterday to explore the White River, returned at four o'clock this day and reported that they had followed the meanders of that stream for about 12 miles in a general westward course; its main channel was around 80 yards wide. The color of the water and the speed and flow matched that of the Missouri exactly. The land was broken along the river for about a mile, where level plains began that extended as far as the eye could see on either side. As usual, no timber was visible except for some that was sheltered from fires on the steep slopes or moist areas of hills. These extensive plains had recently burned, and the grass had grown back to about three inches high. Vast herds of buffalo, deer, elk, and antelope were seen grazing in every direction as far as the observer could see.
[Clark, September 16, 1804]
September 16th Sunday, we proceeded on 11/4 Miles and Camped on the L. Side in a butifull Plain Surounded with timber in which we Saw Severall Der, we delayed here for the purpose of Drying the articles which were wet & the cloathes to Load the Perogue which we had intended to send back, finding the water too Shoal Deturmind to take on the Perogue also to make Some observations for Longitude &c. the two men G. & R. F. joined us and informed "that the river as far as they were up had much the Appearance of the river about the mouth, but little timber and that chiefly elm", the up land between this river & the White river is fine, Great numbers of Goat, Deer of three kinds, Buffalow, & wolves, & Barking Squrels, The fallow Deer, Cloudy, all day Cleaning out the boat examining & Drying the goods, & loading the Perogue, I killed 2 Deer Capt Lewis one & a Buffalow, one Buffalow & five other Deer Killed. I observed Pine Burs & Burch Sticks in the Drift wood up white river which Coms in on the L. S. imedeately in the point is a butifull Situation for a town 3 Gentle rises, & more timber about the mouth of this river than usial
September 16th, Sunday, we moved on for 11/4 miles and camped on the left side in a beautiful plain surrounded by timber, where we saw several deer. We stayed here to dry the wet items and clothes to load onto the pirogue we intended to send back, but since the water was too shallow, we decided not to take the pirogue on. We also made some observations for longitude, etc. Two men, G. and R. F., joined us and told us that the river, as far as they had been, looked very much like the river near the mouth, but had little timber, mainly elm. The upland between this river and the White River is nice, with large numbers of goats, three kinds of deer, buffalo, wolves, and barking squirrels. The fallow deer were cloudy all day as we cleaned out the boat, examined and dried the goods, and loaded the pirogue. I killed 2 deer, Captain Lewis one, and a buffalo, with one buffalo and five other deer killed overall. I noticed pine burs and birch sticks in the driftwood along the White River, which comes in on the left side. Right at the point is a beautiful spot for a town—three gentle rises and more timber around the mouth of this river than usual.
[Clark, September 16, 1804]
16th of September Sunday 1804 We Set out verry early & proceed'd on 11/4 miles between Sand bars and Came too on the L. S. (1)—deturmined to dry our wet thig and liten the boat which we found could not proceed with the present load for this purpose we Concluded to detain the Perogue we had intended to Send back & load her out of the boat & detain the Soldiers untill Spring & Send them from our winter quarters. We put out those articles which was wet, Clean'd the boat & perogus, examined all the Locker Bails &. &c. &.
16th of September, Sunday, 1804. We set out very early and traveled 1.25 miles between sandbars, then stopped on the left side. We decided to dry our wet gear and lighten the boat because we realized it couldn't move with the current load. We concluded to keep the perogue we had planned to send back and load it from the boat, delaying the soldiers until spring when we would send them from our winter quarters. We unloaded the wet items, cleaned the boat and perogues, and checked all the lockers and bails, etc.
This Camp is Situated in a butifull Plain Serounded with Timber to the extent of 3/4 of a mile in which there is great quantities of fine Plumbs The two men detachd up the White river joined us here & informed that the river as far as they were up had much the appearance of the Missourie Som Islands & Sands little Timber Elm, (much Signs of Beaver, Great many buffalow) & Continud its width, they Saw & well as my Self Pine burs & Sticks of Birch in the Drift wood up this river, They Saw also Number of Goats Such as I Killed, also wolves near the Buffalow falling Deer, & the Barking Squrels Villages Capt. Lewis went to hunt & See the Countrey near the Kamp he killed a Buffalow & a Deer
This camp is set in a beautiful plain surrounded by trees for about three-quarters of a mile, where there are a lot of fine plums. The two men who detached up the White River joined us here and told us that the river, as far as they went, looked a lot like the Missouri, with some islands and sandy areas and little timber—mainly elm, along with a lot of signs of beaver, and many buffalo. It continued its width. They, along with me, noticed pine nuts and sticks of birch in the driftwood up this river. They also saw several goats like the ones I killed, as well as wolves near the buffalo and falling deer, and the villages of barking squirrels. Captain Lewis went out to hunt and explore the area near the camp; he killed a buffalo and a deer.
Cloudy all day I partly load the empty Perogue out of the Boat. I killed 2 Deer & the party 4 Deer & a Buffalow the we kill for the Skins to Cover the Perogus, the meet too pore to eat. Capt Lewis went on an Island above our Camp, this Island is abt. one mile long, with a Great purpotion ceder timber near the middle of it
Cloudy all day, I partially load the empty Perogue out of the boat. I killed 2 deer, and the group got 4 deer and a buffalo; we kill them for the skins to cover the Perogus, as the meat is too poor to eat. Captain Lewis went to an island above our camp; this island is about one mile long and has a large amount of cedar timber near the middle of it.
I gave out a flannel Shirt to each man, & powder to those who had expended thers
I handed out a flannel shirt to each man and provided powder to those who had used theirs up.
[Lewis, September 17, 1804]
Monday September 17th 1804. Having for many days past confined myself to the boat, I determined to devote this day to amuse myself on shore with my gun and view the interior of the country lying between the river and the Corvus Creek- accordingly before sunrise I set out with six of my best hunters, two of whom I dispatched to the lower side of Corvus creek, two with orders to hunt the bottoms and woodland on the river, while I retained two others to acompany me in the intermediate country. one quarter of a mile in rear of our camp which was situated in a fine open grove of cotton wood passed a grove of plumb trees loaded with fruit and now ripe. observed but little difference between this fruit and that of a similar kind common to the Atlantic States. the trees are smaller and more thickly set. this forrest of plumb trees garnish a plain about 20 feet more lelivated than that on which we were encamped; this plain extends back about a mile to the foot of the hills one mile distant and to which it is gradually ascending this plane extends with the same bredth from the creek below to the distance of near three miles above parrallel with the river, and is intirely occupyed by the burrows of the barking squril hertefore discribed; this anamal appears here in infinite numbers, and the shortness and virdue of grass gave the plain the appearance throughout it's whole extent of beatifull bowlinggreen in fine order. it's aspect is S. E. a great number of wolves of the small kind, balks and some pole-cats were to be seen. I presume that those anamals feed on this squirril.—found the country in every direction for about three miles intersected with deep reveries and steep irregular hills of 100 to 200 feet high; at the tops of these hills the country breakes of as usual into a fine leavel plain extending as far as the eye can reach. from this plane I had an extensive view of the river below, and the irregular hills which border the opposite sides of the river and creek. the surrounding country had been birnt about a month before and young grass had now sprung up to hight of 4 Inches presenting the live green of the spring. to the West a high range of hills, strech across the country from N. to S and appeared distant about 20 miles; they are not very extensive as I could plainly observe their rise and termination no rock appeared on them and the sides were covered with virdue similar to that of the plains this senery already rich pleasing and beatiful, was still farther hightened by immence herds of Buffaloe deer Elk and Antelopes which we saw in every direction feeding on the hills and plains. I do not think I exagerate when I estimate the number of Buffaloe which could be compreed at one view to amount to 3000. my object was if possible to kill a female Antelope having already procured a male; I pursued my rout on this plain to the west flanked by my two hunters untill eight in the morning when I made the signal for them to come to me which they did shortly after. we rested our selves about half an hour, and regailed ourselves on half a bisquit each and some jirk of Elk which we had taken the precaution to put in our pouches in the morning before we set out, and drank of the water of a small pool which had collected on this plain from the rains which had fallen some days before. We had now after various windings in pursuit of several herds of antelopes which we had seen on our way made the distance of about eight miles from our camp. we found the Antelope extreemly shye and watchfull insomuch that we had been unable to get a shot at them; when at rest they generally seelect the most elivated point in the neighbourhood, and as they are watchfull and extreemly quick of sight and their sense of smelling very accute it is almost impossible to approach them within gunshot; in short they will frequently discover and flee from you at the distance of three miles. I had this day an opportunity of witnessing the agility and superior fleetness of this anamal which was to me really astonishing. I had pursued and twice surprised a small herd of seven, in the first instance they did not discover me distinctly and therefore did not run at full speed, tho they took care before they rested to gain an elivated point where it was impossible to approach them under cover except in one direction and that happened to be in the direction from which the wind blew towards them; bad as the chance to approach them was, I made the best of my way towards them, frequently peeping over the ridge with which I took care to conceal myself from their view the male, of which there was but one, frequently incircled the summit of the hill on which the females stood in a group, as if to look out for the approach of danger. I got within about 200 paces of them when they smelt me and fled; I gained the top of the eminece on which they stood, as soon as possible from whence I had an extensive view of the country the antilopes which had disappeared in a steep revesne now appeared at the distance of about three miles on the side of a ridge which passed obliquely across me and extended about four miles. so soon had these antelopes gained the distance at which they had again appeared to my view I doubted at ferst that they were the same that I had just surprised, but my doubts soon vanished when I beheld the rapidity of their flight along the ridge before me it appeared reather the rappid flight of birds than the motion of quadrupeds. I think I can safely venture the asscertion that the speed of this anamal is equal if not superior to that of the finest blooded courser.—this morning I saws
Monday, September 17, 1804. After spending many days on the boat, I decided to spend today enjoying the shore with my gun and exploring the area between the river and Corvus Creek. So, before sunrise, I set out with six of my best hunters. I sent two to the lower side of Corvus Creek, two to hunt the river bottoms and woods, while I kept two with me to explore the middle area. A quarter-mile behind our campsite, which was in a nice open grove of cottonwoods, I passed a grove of plum trees heavy with ripe fruit. I noticed very little difference between this fruit and similar kinds found in the Atlantic states; the trees are smaller and packed more closely together. This forest of plum trees covers a plain that is about 20 feet higher than our camp area. This plain stretches back about a mile to the base of some hills one mile away, and it gradually rises towards them. The plain extends about three miles from the creek below, running parallel to the river, and is entirely filled with the burrows of the barking squirrel I described earlier. This animal appears in endless numbers here, and the shortness and greenness of the grass made the plain look like a beautiful bowling green in great shape. It's oriented southeast, and many small wolves, skunks, and some polecats were visible. I assume these animals feed on the squirrels. I found the terrain in every direction for about three miles crisscrossed with deep ravines and steep, irregular hills ranging from 100 to 200 feet high. At the tops of these hills, the land broke off, as usual, into a nice flat plain that extended as far as the eye could see. From this plain, I had a broad view of the river below and the irregular hills lining the opposite sides of both the river and the creek. The surrounding land had been burned about a month ago, and young grass had now sprouted to a height of four inches, showcasing the vibrant greens of spring. To the west, a high range of hills stretched across the country from north to south, appearing to be about 20 miles away. They aren't very expansive; I could clearly see their rise and end, with no rocks visible, and their sides were covered in greenery similar to that of the plains. This already rich, pleasing, and beautiful scenery was further enhanced by immense herds of buffalo, deer, elk, and antelopes that we saw in every direction, grazing on the hills and plains. I don’t think I’m exaggerating when I estimate that I could see around 3000 buffalo at once. I aimed to kill a female antelope since I had already secured a male. I continued west across the plain, accompanied by my two hunters, until 8 a.m., when I signaled for them to join me, which they did shortly after. We rested for about half an hour, enjoying half a biscuit each and some elk jerky that we had packed in our pouches that morning before heading out, and drank from a small pool of water that had collected on the plain from rain that fell days earlier. After various winding paths in pursuit of several herds of antelopes we had spotted, we covered about eight miles from our camp. We found the antelopes extremely shy and alert, making it impossible for us to get a shot at them. When resting, they typically choose the highest nearby point, and since they are watchful, incredibly quick to see, and have a very keen sense of smell, it’s almost impossible to approach them within gunshot. In fact, they often notice and run away from you even at a distance of three miles. That day, I had the chance to witness the agility and superior speed of these animals, which was truly astonishing. I pursued and twice surprised a small herd of seven; the first time they didn’t see me clearly, so they didn’t run at full speed, but they made sure to reach an elevated point before resting, making it impossible to approach them without cover except from one direction—and that was the direction the wind was blowing toward them. Despite the difficult chance to approach, I moved toward them, often peeking over the ridge to keep myself hidden. The male, of which there was only one, frequently circled the top of the hill where the females stood in a group, as if to look out for danger. I got within about 200 paces of them when they smelled me and bolted; I quickly reached the top of the hill they were on, from where I had a wide view of the area. The antelopes, which had disappeared down a steep ravine, soon reappeared about three miles away on a ridge that ran diagonally in front of me, extending about four miles. Once they had gained distance and I could see them again, I initially doubted they were the same ones I had just startled, but my doubts vanished when I observed how fast they were moving along the ridge; their flight resembled that of birds rather than quadrupeds. I believe I can safely assert that the speed of these animals is equal to, if not greater than, that of the finest thoroughbred horse.
[Clark, September 17, 1804]
17th of Septr. Monday 1804 above White river Dried all those articles which had got wet by the last rain, a fine day Capt Lewis went hunting with a vew to seethe Countrey &its productions, he was out all Day Killed a Buffalow & a remarkable bird of the Spicies of Corvus, long tail of a Greenish Purple, Varigated a Beck like a Crow white round its neck comeing to a point on its back, its belley white feet like a Hawk abt. the size of a large Pigeon Capt Lewis returned at Dark. I took the Meridian & equal altitudes to day made the Lattitude.
17th of September, Monday 1804, above White River. I dried all the items that got wet from the last rain. It was a nice day. Captain Lewis went hunting to explore the country and its resources. He was out all day and killed a buffalo and an interesting bird of the Corvus species. It had a long tail with a greenish-purple sheen, a crow-like beak with white around its neck that tapered to a point on its back, and a white belly with feet like a hawk, about the size of a large pigeon. Captain Lewis returned at dark. I took the meridian and equal altitudes today to determine the latitude.
Colter Killed a Goat, & a Curious kind of Deer, a Darker grey than Common the hair longer & finer, the ears verry large & long a Small resepitical under its eye its tail round and white to near the end which is black & like a Cow in every other respect like a Deer, except it runs like a goat. large.
Colter killed a goat and a strange kind of deer, which was a darker gray than usual, with longer and finer hair, very large and long ears, a small pouch under its eye, and a tail that's round and white near the end, which is black. In every other way, it resembled a deer, except that it runs like a goat. Large.
The hunters brought in 8 fallow Deer & 5 Common Deer to day, Great numbers of Buffalow in the Praries, also a light Coloured woolf Covered with hair & corse fur, also a Small wolf with a large bushey tail—Some Goats of a Different Kind Seen to day,—Great many Plumbs, rabits, Porcupines & barking Squrels, Capt Lewis Killed a rattle Snake in a village of the Squirel's and Saw a Hair to day. Wind from the S. W. we finished Drying our Provisions Some of which was wet and Spoiled,
The hunters brought in 8 fallow deer and 5 common deer today. There were a lot of buffalo in the prairies, and we also spotted a light-colored wolf covered with hair and coarse fur, along with a small wolf with a bushy tail. We saw some different kinds of goats today, along with plenty of plums, rabbits, porcupines, and barking squirrels. Captain Lewis killed a rattlesnake in a squirrel village and saw a hare today. The wind was coming from the southwest, and we finished drying our provisions, some of which had gotten wet and spoiled.
[Clark, September 17, 1804]
17th of September Monday 1804 Dried all our wet articles this fine Day, Capt Lewis went out with a View to see the Countrey and its productions, he was out all day he killed a Buffalow and a remarkable Bird of the Corvus Species long tail the upper part of the feathers & also the wing is of a purplish variated Green, the black, a part of the wing feather are white edjed with black, white belley, white from the root of the wings to Center of the back is white, the head nake breast & other parts are black the Becke like a Crow. abt. the Size of a large Pigion. a butifull thing (See Suplement in No. 3)
17th of September, Monday, 1804 We dried all our wet items on this nice day. Captain Lewis went out to explore the country and its resources. He was out all day and killed a buffalo and an extraordinary bird from the crow family with a long tail. The upper part of the feathers and the wings were a purplish green with variations. The black feathers on part of the wing had white edges, and the belly was white. From the base of the wings to the center of the back was also white, while the head, neck, breast, and other areas were black, resembling a crow. It was about the size of a large pigeon—such a beautiful creature! (See Supplement in No. 3)
I took equal altitudes and a meridian altitude. Capt. Lewis returned at Dark, Colter Killed a Goat like the one I killed and a curious kind of deer of a Dark gray Colr. more so than common, hair long & fine, the ears large & long, a Small reseptical under the eyes; like an Elk, the Taile about the length of Common Deer, round (like a Cow) a tuft of black hair about the end, this Speces of Deer jumps like a goat or Sheep
I took equal altitudes and a meridian altitude. Capt. Lewis came back at night. Colter killed a goat similar to the one I killed and a strange type of deer that was a darker gray than usual, with long, fine hair, large ears, and a small pouch under its eyes. It looked like an elk, and its tail was about the same length as a common deer’s, round like a cow's, with a tuft of black hair at the end. This species of deer jumps like a goat or sheep.
8 fallow Deer 5 Common & 3 buffalow killed to day, Capt. Lewis Saw a hare & Killed a Rattle Snake in a village of B. squerels The wind from S. W. Dryed our provisions, Some of which was much Damaged.
8 fallow deer, 5 common, and 3 buffalo were killed today. Captain Lewis saw a hare and killed a rattlesnake in a village of squirrels. The wind from the southwest dried out our provisions, some of which were badly damaged.
[Lewis, September 17, 1804]
Sept. 17th one of the hunters killed a bird of the Corvus genus and order of the pica & about the size of a jack-daw with a remarkable long tale. beautifully variagated. it note is not disagreeable though loud it is twait twait twait, twait; twait, twait twait, twait.
Sept. 17th one of the hunters killed a bird of the Corvus genus and order of the pica & about the size of a jackdaw with a remarkably long tail. beautifully variegated. its call is not unpleasant, though loud; it goes twait twait twait, twait; twait, twait twait, twait.
F I
from tip to tip of wing 1 10
Do. beak to extremity of tale 1 8 1/2
of which the tale occupys 1 1
from extremity of middle toe to hip 5 1/2
F I from tip to tip of wing 1 10 do. beak to end of tail 1 8 1/2 of which the tail occupies 1 1 from end of middle toe to hip 5 1/2
it's head, beak, and neck are large for a bird of it's size; the beak is black, and of a convex and cultrated figure, the chops nearly equal, and it's base large and beset with hairs—the eyes are black encircled with a narrow ring of yellowish black it's head, neck, brest & back within one inch of the tale are of a fine glossey black, as are also the short fathers of the under part of the wing, the thies and those about the root of the tale. the belly is of a beatifull white which passes above and arround the but of the wing, where the feathers being long reach to a small white spot on the rump one inch in width—the wings have nineteen feathers, of which the ten first have the longer side of their plumage white in the midde of the feather and occupying unequal lengths of the same from one to three inches, and forming when the wing is spead a kind of triangle the upper and lower part of these party coloured feathers on the under side of the wing being of dark colour but not jut or shining black. the under side of the remaining feathers of the wing are darker. the upper side of the wing, as well as the short side of the plumage of the party coloured feathers is of a dark blackis or bluish green sonetimes presenting as light orange yellow or bluish tint as it happens to be presented to different exposures of ligt—the plumage of the tale consits of 12 feathers of equal lengths by pairs, those in the center are the longest, and the others on each side deminishing about an inch each pair—the underside of the feathers is a pale black, the upper side is a dark bluefish green which like the outer part of the wings is changable as it reflects different portions of light. towards the the extremely of these feathers they become of an orrange green, then shaded pass to a redish indigo blue, and again at the extremity assume the predominant colour of changeable green—the tints of these feathers are very similar and equally as beatiful and rich as the tints of blue and green of the peacock—it is a most beatifull bird.—the legs and toes are black and imbricated. it has four long toes, three in front and one in rear, each terminated with a black sharp tallon from 3/8ths to 1/2 an inch in length.—these birds are seldom found in parties of more than three or four and most usually at this season single as the balks and other birds of prey usually are—it's usual food is flesh—this bird dose not spread it's tail when it flys and the motion of it's wings when flying is much like that of a Jay-bird-
Its head, beak, and neck are large for a bird of its size; the beak is black, with a curved and sharp shape, the sides nearly equal, and its base is wide and covered with hairs. The eyes are black, bordered with a narrow ring of yellowish-black. Its head, neck, breast, and back, within an inch of the tail, are a beautiful glossy black, as are also the short feathers on the underside of the wing, the thighs, and those around the base of the tail. The belly is beautifully white, extending above and around the base of the wing, where the long feathers reach a small white spot on the rump that is one inch wide. The wings have nineteen feathers, of which the first ten have a longer side of their plumage white in the middle, varying in length from one to three inches, and forming a triangle when the wing is spread. The upper and lower parts of these multicolored feathers on the underside of the wing are dark but not quite shiny black. The underside of the remaining wing feathers is darker. The upper side of the wing, as well as the short side of the plumage of the multicolored feathers, is a dark blackish or bluish green, sometimes showing a light orange-yellow or bluish tint depending on the light. The tail plumage consists of 12 feathers of equal length arranged in pairs, with those in the center being the longest, while the others on each side decrease in length by about an inch per pair. The underside of the feathers is a pale black, and the upper side is a dark bluish-green that, like the outer part of the wings, changes as it reflects light. Towards the tips of these feathers, they shift to an orange-green, then shade into a reddish indigo blue, and finally end with a prominent changeable green. The colors of these feathers are very similar and just as beautiful and rich as the blue and green hues of a peacock—it is a truly beautiful bird. The legs and toes are black and scaly. It has four long toes, three in front and one in the back, each ending with a sharp black claw measuring from 3/8ths to 1/2 an inch in length. These birds are rarely found in groups of more than three or four and are usually alone during this season, like the hawks and other birds of prey. Its usual diet consists of flesh. This bird does not spread its tail when it flies, and the motion of its wings when flying resembles that of a jaybird.
The White turkey of the black hills from information of a french lad who wintered with the Chien Indians About the size of the common wild turkey the plumage perfectly white—this bird is booted as low as the toes-
The white turkey from the Black Hills comes from a French boy who spent the winter with the Cheyenne Indians. It’s about the same size as a regular wild turkey, and its feathers are completely white—this bird has feathers that cover its legs all the way down to the toes.
[Clark, September 18, 1804]
Septr. 18 I Killed a prarie wolf to day about the Sise of a Gray fox with a bushey tail the head and ears like a Fox wolf, and barks like a Small Dog—The annimale which we have taken for the Fox is this wolf, we have seen no Foxes.
Sep 18 I killed a prairie wolf today, about the size of a gray fox, with a bushy tail, and a head and ears like a fox wolf. It barks like a small dog. The animal we've mistaken for a fox is this wolf; we haven't seen any foxes.
18 Septr. Tuesday Set out early wind from the N W. Modrt. our boat being much litened goes much better than usial
18 Sep. Tuesday Set out early, wind from the NW. Moderate. Our boat, being much lighter, goes much better than usual.
[Clark, September 18, 1804]
September 18th Tuesday 1804 Wind from the N W. we Set out early the boat much lightened, the wind a head proceed on verry Slowly (1) Passed an I a Island about the middle of the river at 1 Mile this Island is about a mile long, and has a great perpotion of red Cedir on it, a Small Creek comes in on the S. S. opposit the head of the Island, proceeded on passed many Sand bars and Camped on the L. S. before night the wind being verry hard & a head all Day. the hunters Killed 10 Deer to day and a Prarie wolf, had it all jurked & Skins Stretchd after Camping I walked on Shore Saw Goats, Elk, Buffalow, Black tail Deer, & the Common Deer, I Killed a Prarie Wollf, about the Size of a gray fox bushey tail head & ear like a wolf, Some fur Burrows in the ground and barks like a Small Dog.
September 18th, Tuesday, 1804. The wind came from the northwest. We set out early with the boat significantly lighter, but with the wind in our face, we moved very slowly. (1) We passed an island about halfway down the river, which is about a mile long and has a lot of red cedar on it. A small creek flows in on the south side, opposite the head of the island. We continued on, navigating past many sandbars, and camped on the left side before nightfall, battling strong headwinds all day. The hunters brought down 10 deer today and a prairie wolf, which we had all jerked and the skins stretched after camping. I walked along the shore and saw goats, elk, buffalo, black-tailed deer, and regular deer. I killed a prairie wolf, about the size of a gray fox, with a bushy tail and a head and ears like a wolf. It burrows in the ground and barks like a small dog.
what has been taken heretofore for the Fox was those wolves, and no Foxes has been Seen; The large wolves are verry numourous, they are of a light Colr. large & has long hair with Corrs fur.
what has been thought to be the Fox so far were actually those wolves, and no Foxes have been seen; The large wolves are very numerous, they are a light color, large, and have long hair with coarse fur.
Some Goats of a Different Kind Wer Seen yesterday Great many Porcupin rabits & Barking Squirils in this quarter. Plumbs & grapes.
Some goats of a different kind were seen yesterday. A great many porcupine rabbits and barking squirrels in this area. Plums and grapes.
[Lewis, September 18, 1804]
Sept. 18th this day saw the first brant on their return from the north-
Sept. 18th, today marked the arrival of the first brant returning from the north.
[Clark, September 19, 1804]
(1) & (2) passed a large Island Situated nearest the S. S. 1/2 a mile from the Lower pt. of this Island, the 1st of the 3 rivers mouths which is about 35 yards wide, running from the N E. one mile above the 2nd Comes in this is Small not more that 15 yards wide a Short Distance above a 3d comes in scattering its waters thro a bottom. I walked on Shore to See this great Pass of the Sioux and Calumet ground, found it a handsom Situation, and Saw the remains of their Campt on the 2d river, for many years passed—(3) passed a Creek on the L. S. 15 yds wide we (4) passed a Creek 20 yds wide (5) passed a Creek 20 yd. wide on the L. S. I call Night C. as I did not get to it untill late at night, above the mouth of this Creek we camped, the wind being favourable, for the boat I Killed a fat Buffalow Cow, and a fat Buck elk, york my Servent Killed a Buck, the Huntes Killed 4 Deer, & the boat Crew killed 2 Buffalow Swiming the river, handsom Countrey of Plains, I saw many trovs of Buffalow & a Gangue of 30 or 40 Elk and othr Scattering elk &c. a find evening I hurt my hands & feet last night
(1) & (2) passed a large island located closest to the south, half a mile from the lower point of this island. The first of the three river mouths is about 35 yards wide, flowing from the northeast, a mile above the second. This one is small, only about 15 yards wide. A short distance above it, a third river comes in, spreading its waters through the bottom. I went ashore to see this important pass of the Sioux and Calumet region. I found it a beautiful spot and noticed the remnants of their camp by the second river, which had been there for many years. (3) passed a creek on the left side, 15 yards wide. We (4) passed a creek 20 yards wide. (5) passed another creek 20 yards wide on the left side; I named it Night Creek, as I didn't reach it until late at night. Above the mouth of this creek, we set up camp. The wind was favorable for the boat, and I killed a fat buffalo cow and a fat buck elk. York, my servant, killed a buck, and the hunters got four deer, while the boat crew shot two buffalo swimming across the river. The plains were beautiful, and I saw many herds of buffalo and a group of 30 or 40 elk, along with other scattered elk, etc. It was a lovely evening, but I hurt my hands and feet last night.
[Clark, September 19, 1804]
19th of September Wednesday 1804 Set out early, a Cool morning verry Clear the wind from the S. E a Bluff on the L. S.—here Commences a Butifull Countrey on both Sides of the Missourie, (2) passed a large Island Called Prospect Island op posit this Isd. the 3 rivers Coms in, passing thro a butifull Plain, here I walked on Shore & Killed a fat Cow & Sent her to the boat and proceeded on to the first of the 3 rivers, this river is about 35 yards wide Contains a good deel of water, I walked up this river 2 miles & Cross, the bottom is high and rich Some timber, I crossed & returned to the mouth, & proceeded up one mile to the 2d river which is Small 12 yards wide, and on it but little timber, on this Creek the Seaux has frequently Camped, as appears by the Signs—the lands betwen those two Creeks in a purpindicular bluff of about 80 feet with a butifull Plain & gentle assent back—a Short distance above the 2nd a 3rd Creek Comes into the river in 3 places Scattering its waters over the large timbered bottom, this Creek is near the Size of the middle Creek Containing a greater quantity of water, those rivers is the place that all nations who meet are at peace with each other, Called the Seaux pass of the 3 rivers.
September 19, 1804, Wednesday Started out early on a cool, clear morning with the wind coming from the southeast. A bluff on the left side. This is where beautiful countryside begins on both sides of the Missouri. I passed a large island called Prospect Island; opposite this island, three rivers come together, flowing through a lovely plain. I went ashore, killed a fat cow, sent her back to the boat, and continued on to the first of the three rivers. This river is about 35 yards wide and has a good amount of water. I walked up this river for 2 miles and crossed over; the bottom is high and fertile, with some timber. I crossed and returned to the mouth, then went up for another mile to the second river, which is small, about 12 yards wide, with little timber on it. The Sioux have often camped along this creek, as shown by the signs. The land between these two creeks features a steep bluff about 80 feet high, with a beautiful plain and a gentle slope behind it. A short distance above the second creek, a third creek enters the river at three locations, spreading its waters over the large timbered bottom. This creek is similar in size to the middle creek and has a greater amount of water. These rivers are where all nations come together in peace, known as the Sioux Pass of the Three Rivers.
The boat proceeded on passd. the Island (3) passed a Creek 15 yds wide on the L. Side (4) passed a Creek on the L. S. 20 yards wide which I Call Elm Creek passing thro a high Plain (5) passed a Creek on the L. S. 18 yds. wide above which the boat Came too, I joined them late at night, and Call this Creek Night Creek the winds favourable all Day, I killed a fat buck Elk late and could only get his Skin and a Small part of his flesh to Camp. My Servent Killed a Buck, the Crew in the boat Killed 2 buffalow in the river—The Hunters on Shore Killed 4 Deer with black tails one of which was a Buck with two men Prongs on each Side forked equally, which I never before Seen. I saw Several large gangs of Buffaloes 2 large Herds of Elk & goats &c. (6) pass a Small Island on the S. S. opposit to this Island on the L. S. a Creek of about 10 yards wide Coms in passing thro a plain in which great quantities of the Prickley Pear grows. I call this Creek Prickley Pear Creek, This Isld. is Called the lower Island it is Situated at the Commencement of what is Called & Known by the Grand de Tortu or Big Bend of the Missourie.
The boat moved past the Island (3) and then passed a creek that was 15 yards wide on the left side (4). We passed another creek on the left side, 20 yards wide, which I named Elm Creek, while going through a high plain (5). We passed another creek on the left side that was 18 yards wide, above which the boat stopped. I joined them late at night and called this creek Night Creek. The winds were favorable all day, and I shot a fat buck elk late and could only bring back its skin and a small piece of its meat to camp. My servant shot a buck, the crew in the boat got 2 buffaloes in the river— the hunters on shore killed 4 deer with black tails, one of which was a buck with two prongs on each side that forked equally, something I had never seen before. I spotted several large groups of buffaloes, 2 large herds of elk, goats, etc. (6) We passed a small island on the south side, opposite this island on the left side, where a creek about 10 yards wide flows through a plain filled with a lot of prickly pear. I named this creek Prickly Pear Creek. This island is called the lower island; it is located at the beginning of what is known as the Grand de Tortu or Big Bend of the Missouri.
[Clark, September 20, 1804]
September the 20th Thursday 1804 Detchd. 3 men across the Big bend (Called the Grand deTour) with the horse, to stay and hunt & jurk provisions untill we get around (1) passed a Island on the S. S. the river Crouded with Sand bars,
September 20th, Thursday, 1804. Detachment of 3 men crossed the Big Bend (called the Grand Detour) with the horse to stay and hunt and jerk provisions until we get around (1) passed an island on the south side. The river was crowded with sandbars.
20th of September 1804 Thursday (Continued) (1) at the N W. extremity of this bend passed an Small Island on the L. S. opposit the upper Point of this Solitary Island Came too to _____ at the mouth of a Small run on the S. S. & Newmon & Tomson picked up Some Salt mixed with the Sand in the run, Such as the ottoes Indians Collect on the Sands of the Corn de Cerf R. & make use of, Camped on a Sand bar on the S. S. above the Island—I went out to examine the portage which I found quit Short 2000 yards only, the Prarie below & Sides of the hills containing great quantites of the Prickly Piar which nearly ruind my feet, I saw a hare, & I beleve he run into a hole, he run on a hill & disapeared, I Saw on this hill several holes. I Saw Several Goats Elk Ders &c. & Buffalow in every Detection feeding. R. Fields Killed a Deer & 2 Goats one a female, which differs from the male as to Size being Something Smaller, Small Straight horns without any black about the neck Camped late
20th of September 1804 Thursday (Continued) (1) at the northwest end of this bend, we passed a small island on the left side, opposite the upper point of this solitary island. We stopped at the mouth of a small stream on the south side, and Newmon and Tomson collected some salt mixed with sand from the stream, similar to what the Ottoes Indians gather from the sands of the Corn de Cerf River and use. We camped on a sandbar on the south side above the island. I went out to check the portage, which I found to be quite short—only 2000 yards. The prairie below and the sides of the hills were filled with prickly pear, which nearly ruined my feet. I spotted a hare, and I believe it ran into a hole—it went up a hill and disappeared. I saw several holes on this hill. I observed several goats, elk, deer, etc., and buffalo in every direction, feeding. R. Fields killed a deer and two goats, one female, which is smaller than the male and has small straight horns without any black around the neck. We camped late.
[Clark, September 20, 1804]
20th of September, Thursday 1804 a fair morning wind from the S E detached 2 men to the 1st. Creek abov the big bend with the horse to hunt and wait our arrival proceeded on passed the lower Island opposit which the Sand bars are verry thick & the water Shoal. I walked on Shore with a view of examining this bend Crossed at the narost part which is a high irregular hills of about 180 or 190 feet, this place the gorge of the Bend is 1 mile & a quarter (from river to river or) across, from this high land which is only in the Gouge, the bend is a Butifull Plain thro which I walked, Saw numbrs of Buffalow & Goats, I saw a Hare & believe he run into a hole in the Side of a hill, he run up this hill which is Small & has Several holes on the Side & I could not See him after, I joined the boat in the evening—passed a Small Island on the L. S. in the N. W. extremity of the bind Called Solitary Island, and Camped late on a Sand bar near the S. S.—R. Fields killed 1 Deer & 2 Goats one of them a feemale—She Differs from the mail as to Size being Smaller, with Small Horns, Stright with a Small prong without any black about the neck None of those Goats has any Beard, they are all Keenly made, and is butifull
20th of September, Thursday 1804, it was a nice morning with a wind coming from the southeast. Two men went to the first creek above the big bend with the horse to hunt and wait for our arrival. We continued on, passing the lower island opposite where the sandbars are very thick and the water is shallow. I walked on shore to check out this bend and crossed at the narrowest part, which has high, irregular hills about 180 or 190 feet tall. This area, the gorge of the bend, is one and a quarter miles (from river to river) across. From this elevated land, which is only in the gorge, the bend opens up into a beautiful plain that I walked through. I saw numerous buffalo and goats, and I spotted a hare that I believe ran into a hole in the side of a hill. It scurried up this small hill, which has several holes on the side, and I lost sight of it after that. I rejoined the boat in the evening, passed a small island on the left side, at the northwest end of the bend called Solitary Island, and camped late on a sandbar near the south side. R. Fields killed one deer and two goats, one of which was a female. She differs from the male in size, being smaller with small horns that are straight and have a small prong, and there's no black around the neck. None of these goats have any beards; they are all finely built and beautiful.
[Lewis, September 20, 1804]
Septr. 20th on the lard. shore at the commencement of the big bend observed a clift of black porus rock which resembled Lava tho on a closer examination I believe it to be calcarious and an imperfect species of the French burr—preserved a specemine, it is a brownish white, or black or yellowish brown-
Sep 20th on the sandy shore at the start of the big bend, I noticed a cliff made of black porous rock that looked like lava, but upon closer inspection, I think it's limestone and an imperfect type of French burr. I kept a sample; it's a brownish white, or black, or yellowish brown.
[Clark, September 21, 1804]
21st of September 1804 Friday 1804, last night or reather this morng at a half past one oClock the Sand bar on which we Camped began to give way, which allarmed the Serjt on guard & the noise waked me, I got up and by the light of the moon observed that the Sand was giving away both above & beloy and would Swallow our Perogues in a few minits, ordered all hands on board and pushed off we had not got to the opposit Shore before pt. of our Camp fel into the river. we proceeded on to the Gorge of the bend & brackfast, the Distance of this bend around is 30 miles, and 11/4 miles thro, the high lands extinds to the gauge and is about 200 feet the plain in the bend as also the two opposit Sides abov and below is delightfull plains with graduel assents from the river in which there is at this time Great number of Buffalow Elk & Goats feedg The Course from the gauge on the L. S. is S. 70 W. 41/2 Miles to the pt. of Ceder Timber on the L. S. pass Sands. worthy of remark the Cat fish not So plenty abov white river & much Smaller than usial, Great nunbers of Brant & plover, also goat and black tail Deer.
September 21, 1804, Friday: Last night, or rather this morning at half past one o'clock, the sandbar we camped on started to give way, which alarmed the sergeant on guard, and the noise woke me up. I got up and, by the light of the moon, noticed that the sand was washing away both above and below, threatening to swallow our canoes in a few minutes. I ordered everyone on board, and we pushed off. We hadn’t even reached the opposite shore before part of our camp fell into the river. We continued on to the gorge of the bend and had breakfast. The distance around this bend is 30 miles, and it’s 1.25 miles through the highlands, which rise to the gauge and are about 200 feet high. The plains in the bend, as well as the two opposite sides above and below, are beautiful plains with gentle slopes leading up from the river, where there are currently large numbers of buffalo, elk, and goats feeding. The course from the gauge on the left side is South 70 West for 4.5 miles to the point of cedar timber on the left side, passing by notable sandbanks. It’s worth noting that catfish are not as plentiful above White River and are much smaller than usual. There are also great numbers of brant, plovers, and both goat and black-tailed deer.
[Clark, September 21, 1804]
21st of September Friday 1804 at half past one oClock this morning the Sand bar on which we Camped began to under mind and give way which allarmed the Sergeant on Guard, the motion of the boat awakened me; I get up & by the light of the moon observed that the land had given away both above and below our Camp & was falling in fast. I ordered all hands on as quick as possible & pushed off, we had pushed off but a few minets before the bank under which the Boat & perogus lay give way, which would Certainly have Sunk both Perogues, by the time we made the opsd. Shore our Camp fell in, we made a 2d Camp for the remainder of the night & at Daylight proceeded on to the Gouge of this Great bend and Brackfast, we Sent a man to measure step off the Distance across the gouge, he made it 2000 yds. The distance arround is 30 mes. The hills extend thro the gouge and is about 200 foot above the water—in the bend as also the opposite Sides both abov and below the bend is a butifull inclined Plain in which there is great numbers of Buffalow, Elk & Goats in view feeding & Scipping on those Plains Grouse, Larks & the Prarie bird is Common in those Plains. we proceeded on passed a (1) willow Island below the mouth of a Small river called Tylors R about 35 yds. wide which corns in on the L. S. 6 miles above the Gorge of the bend, at the mouth of this river the two hunters a head left a Deer & its Skin also the Skin of a white wolfwe observe an emence number of Plover of Different kind Collecting and takeing their flight Southerly, also Brants which appear to move in the same Direction. The Cat fish is Small and not So plenty as below (2) The Shore on each Side is lined with hard rough Gulley Stones of different Sides, which has roled from the hills & out of Small brooks, Ceder is comon here, This day is worm, the wind which is not hard blows from the S. E, we Camped at the lower point of the Mock Island on the S. S. this now Connected with the main land, it has the appearance of once being an Island detached from the main land Covered with tall Cotton wood—we Saw Some Camps and tracks of the Seaux which appears to be old three or four weeks ago—one frenchman I fear has got an abscess on his they, he complains verry much we are makeing every exertion to releiv him The Praries in this quarter Contains Great qts. of Prickley Pear.
September 21, Friday, 1804, at 1:30 AM, the sandbar where we camped started to erode and collapse, which alarmed the sergeant on guard. The motion of the boat woke me up; I got up, and by the light of the moon, I saw that the land had eroded both above and below our camp and was falling in quickly. I ordered everyone to get ready as fast as possible and pushed off. We had barely pushed off when the bank under which the boat and canoes lay gave way, which would have definitely sunk both canoes. By the time we reached the opposite shore, our camp had collapsed. We set up a second camp for the rest of the night, and at daylight, we moved on to the gorge of this great bend for breakfast. We sent a man to measure the distance across the gorge; he said it was 2,000 yards. The distance around is 30 miles. The hills extend through the gorge and are about 200 feet above the water. In the bend, as well as on both sides above and below the bend, there is a beautiful sloping plain where many buffalo, elk, and goats can be seen grazing, and grouse, larks, and prairie birds are common in those plains. We continued on past a (1) willow island below the mouth of a small river called Taylor's River, which is about 35 yards wide, coming in on the left side, 6 miles above the gorge of the bend. At the mouth of this river, the two hunters ahead left a deer and its skin, along with the skin of a white wolf. We noticed an immense number of plovers of different kinds gathering and flying south, as well as brants that seemed to be moving in the same direction. The catfish are small and not as plentiful as below. (2) The shore on each side is lined with hard, rough gully stones of various sizes that have rolled from the hills and out of small brooks; cedar is common here. This day is warm, and the wind, which is not strong, blows from the southeast. We camped at the lower point of Mock Island on the south side, which is now connected to the mainland. It looks like it was once an island detached from the land and covered with tall cottonwood. We saw some camps and tracks of the Sioux that seem to be old, about three or four weeks ago. One Frenchman is suffering from what I fear is an abscess on his thigh; he is complaining a lot, and we are making every effort to relieve him. The prairies in this area contain large quantities of prickly pear.
[Clark, September 22, 1804]
22nd September Satturday 1804 a thick fog this morning untill 7 oClock which detained us, Saw Some old tracks of the Indians on the S. S. proceeded on—one French man with a abscess on his thigh which pains him verry much for 10 or 12 Days a butifull Plain on both Sides low high land under which there is a number of lage Stone, we See great numbers of Buffalow feeding
22nd September Saturday 1804 a thick fog this morning until 7 o'clock which held us up. Saw some old tracks of the Indians on the south side. Proceeded on—one French man with an abscess on his thigh that has been hurting him very much for 10 or 12 days. A beautiful plain on both sides with low and high land underneath which there are a number of large stones. We see great numbers of buffalo feeding.
[Clark, September 22, 1804]
A continuation of notes taken assending the Missourie in 1804-by W. Clark Satturday the 22nd of September 1804- A Thick fog this morning detained us untill 7 oClock, The plains on both Sides of the River is butifull and assends gradually from the river; noumerous herds of Buffalow to be Seen in every derections, (1) Took the altitude of the Sun & found the Lattitude to be 44° 11' 33" N- (2) passed a Small Island on the L. S. and one on the S. S. imediately above, & about 3 m. long, on the L. S. opposit this Island a Creek of about 15 yds wide mouthes, Called the Creek of the 3 Sisters (3) passed Cedar Island 11/2 M. long & 1 M. wide Situated a little above the last and nearest the S. S.near the upper part of this Island on its S. Side a Tradeing fort is Situated built of Cedar-by a Mr. Louiselle of St Louis, for the purpose of Tradeing with the Teton Bands of Soues (or "Sieux") about this Fort I saw numbers of Indians Temporary Lodges, & horse Stables, all of them round and to a point at top, I observed also numbers of Cotton Trees fallen for the purpose of feeding their horses on the Bark of the limbs of those trees which is Said to be excellent food for the horses—we came too on the S. S. below a Small Island called Goat island, passed a no. of large round Stones, Som distance in the river as also in the Sides of the hills,—I walked on the Shore this evening and Killed a verry large Deer—our hunters Killed 2 Deer & a Beaver, they Complain of the Mineral quallities of the high land distroying their mockersons-.
A continuation of notes taken ascending the Missouri in 1804 - by W. Clark Saturday, September 22, 1804 - A thick fog this morning held us back until 7 o'clock. The plains on both sides of the river are beautiful and gradually rise from the river; numerous herds of buffalo can be seen in every direction. (1) I measured the altitude of the sun and found the latitude to be 44° 11' 33" N. (2) We passed a small island on the left side and one on the right side just above it, both about 3 miles long. On the left side, opposite this island, a creek about 15 yards wide flows in, called the Creek of the 3 Sisters. (3) We passed Cedar Island, which is 1.5 miles long and 1 mile wide, located just a little above the last one and closest to the right side. Near the upper part of this island, on its south side, there is a trading fort built of cedar by Mr. Louiselle of St. Louis, intended for trading with the Teton bands of Sioux. Around this fort, I saw several temporary Indian lodges and horse stables, all rounded at the top and coming to a point. I also noticed many cottonwood trees that had been cut down to feed their horses, as the bark from those trees is said to be excellent food for them. We stopped on the right side below a small island called Goat Island and passed several large round stones both in the river and along the hillsides. I walked along the shore this evening and killed a very large deer. Our hunters killed 2 deer and a beaver; they complain that the mineral qualities of the high land are ruining their moccasins.
[Clark, September 22, 1804]
22nd of September Satturday 1804 a thick fog this morning detained us untill 7 oClock passed a butifull inclined Prarie on both Sides in which we See great numbers of Buffalow feeding—(1) took the Meridean altitude of the Suns upper Leimb. 92° 50' 00" the SexSecnt the Latd. produced from this Obsivation is 44° 11' 33" 3/10 North (2) passed a Small Island on the L. S. imediately above passed a Island Situated nearest the L. S. abt. 3 miles long, behind this Isd. on the L. S. a Creek Comes in about 15 yards wide, this Creek and Islands are Called the 3 Sisters a butifull Plain on both Sides of the river (3) passed a Island Situated nearest the S. S. imedeately above the last Called Ceder Island this Island is about 11/2 miles long & nearly as wide Covered with Ceder, on the South Side of this Island Mr. Louiselle a trader from St. Louis built a fort of Ceder & a good house to trate with the Seaux & wintered last winter; about this fort I observed a number of Indian Camps in a Conicel form,—they fed their horses on Cotton limbs as appears. here our hunters joined us havening killed 2 Deer & a Beaver, they Complain much of the Mineral Substances in the barren hills over which they passed distroying their mockersons.
22nd of September, Saturday, 1804. A thick fog this morning kept us until 7 o'clock. We passed a beautiful sloped prairie on both sides where we saw a lot of buffalo grazing. (1) I took the meridian altitude of the sun's upper limb: 92° 50' 00". The sextant reading gave us a latitude of 44° 11' 33" 3/10 North. (2) We passed a small island on the left side, immediately above, and then an island closest to the left side that’s about 3 miles long. Behind this island, on the left side, there’s a creek about 15 yards wide; this creek and the islands are called the Three Sisters, surrounded by beautiful plains on both sides of the river. (3) We passed another island, closest to the south side, immediately above the last, called Cedar Island. This island is about 1.5 miles long and nearly as wide, covered in cedar. On the south side of this island, Mr. Louiselle, a trader from St. Louis, built a cedar fort and a good house to trade with the Sioux and wintered here last winter. Around this fort, I noticed several Indian camps in a conical shape; they seemed to be feeding their horses on cottonwood limbs. Here our hunters rejoined us, having killed 2 deer and a beaver. They complained a lot about the minerals in the barren hills they passed, which were damaging their moccasins.
(4) we proceeded on and Camped late on the S. Side below a Small Island in the bend S. S. Called Goat Island. The large Stones which lay on the Sides of the banks in Several places lay Some distance in the river, under the water and is dangerous &.
(4) We continued on and set up camp late on the south side below a small island in the bend of the south side, called Goat Island. The large stones on the banks in several places were some distance in the river, underwater, making it dangerous.
I walked out this evening and killed a fine Deer, the musquiters is verry troublesom in the bottoms
I went out this evening and killed a nice deer; the mosquitoes are really bothersome in the low areas.
[Clark, September 23, 1804]
23rd Septr. Sunday 1804 (days and nights equal) Set out early under a gentle Breeze from the S E N. 46°W 33/4 Miles to the mo. of a Creek on the S. S. passd. a pt. on the L. S. (1) a Small Island opsd. in the bend to the S. S. This Island is Called goat Island, (1) this Creek is 10 yards wide. passed bad Sand bars—S. 46°W 23/4 mes. a wood at a Spring in the bend to the L. S. Saw the Prarie a fire behind us near the head of Ceder Island L. S. N. 80° W. 41/2 to the lower pt of Elk Island pass 2 Willow Islands & Sand I saw this morning 12 of those Black & white birds of the corvus Species.
23rd Sep, Sunday 1804 (days and nights equal) Set out early with a light breeze from the SE N. 46°W for 3.75 miles to the mouth of a creek on the south side. Passed a point on the left side (1) a small island opposite the bend to the south side. This island is called Goat Island, (1) and this creek is 10 yards wide. Passed through bad sandbars—S. 46°W for 2.75 miles to a wooded area at a spring in the bend to the left side. Saw a prairie fire behind us near the head of Cedar Island, left side, N. 80° W. 4.5 miles to the lower point of Elk Island, passing 2 willow islands and sand. This morning, I spotted 12 of those black and white birds from the corvus species.
Capt Lewis went out to hund on the Island a great number of Buffalow in Sight I must Seal up all those Scrips & draw from my Journal at Some other time Win Clark Cpt.
Capt Lewis went out to hunt on the island and saw a lot of buffalo. I need to seal up all those notes and write from my journal another time. Win Clark Cpt.
[Clark, September 23, 1804]
Sunday the 23rd September 1804 Set out under a Gentle breeze from the S. E—(1) passed Goat Island Situated in a bend to the S. S—above passed a Small Creek 12 yards wide on the S. S.—we observed a great Smoke to the SW. which is an Indian Signal of their haveing discovered us, I walked on Shore and observed great numbers of Buffalows. (2) passed 2 Small Willow Islands with large Sand bars makeing from their upper points (3) passed Elk Island Situated near the L. S. about 21/2 mes. long & 3/4 wide, Covered with Cotton wood, a red berry Called by the French "grise de buff," Grapes &c. the river is wide Streight & contains a great numr of Sand bars, (4) passed a Small Creek on the S. S. 16 yds wide I call Reubens Cr.—R. Fields was the first who found it—Came too & Camped on the S. S. in a Wood. Soon after we landed three Soues boys Swam across to us, those boys informed us that a Band of Sieux called the Tetons of 80 Lodges wer Camped near the mouth of the next River, and 60 Lodges more a Short distance above them, they had that day Set the praries on fire to let those Camps Know of our approach—we gave those boys two twists of Tobacco to carry to their Chiefs & Warriors to Smoke, with derections to tell them that we wished to Speak to them tomorrow, at the mouth of the next river—Capt Lewis walked on Shore, R F. Killed a She Goat or "Cabbra."
Sunday, September 23, 1804. We set out with a gentle breeze from the southeast. We passed Goat Island, which is located in a bend to the south. We also passed a small creek that was 12 yards wide on the south side. We noticed a large smoke signal to the southwest, which indicated that the Indians had spotted us. I went ashore and saw a lot of buffalo. We passed two small willow islands with large sandbars extending from their upper points. We then passed Elk Island, located near the left side, which is about 2.5 miles long and ¾ mile wide, covered with cottonwood, a red berry known by the French as "grise de buff," and grapes, etc. The river here is wide and straight, containing many sandbars. We passed another small creek on the south side, which I named Reuben's Creek. R. Fields was the first to discover it. We stopped and camped on the south side in a wooded area. Shortly after we landed, three Sioux boys swam across to us. They informed us that a band of Sioux called the Tetons, consisting of 80 lodges, were camped near the mouth of the next river, with another 60 lodges a short distance above them. They had set the prairies on fire that day to signal their camps about our approach. We gave the boys two twists of tobacco to take to their chiefs and warriors to smoke, with instructions to tell them that we wanted to speak with them tomorrow at the mouth of the next river. Captain Lewis walked ashore, and R.F. killed a female goat, or "cabbra."
[Clark, September 23, 1804]
23rd of September Sunday 1804 Set out under a gentle breeze from the S. E, (1) passed a Small Island Situated in a bend to the L. S. Called Goat Island, a Short distance above the upper point a Creek of 12 yards wide corns in on the S. S. we observed a great Smoke to the S W.—I walked on Shore & observed Buffalow in great Herds at a Distance (2) passed two Small willow Islands with large Sand bars makeing out from them, passed (3) Elk Island about 21/2 miles long & 3/4 mile wide Situated near the L. S. covered with Cotton wood the read Current Called by the French Gres de Butiff & grapes &c. &c. the river is nearly Streight for a great distance wide and Shoal. (4) passed a Creek on the S. S. 16 yards wide we Call Reubens Creek, as R Fields found it Camped on the S. S. below the mouth of a Creek on the L. S. three Souex boys Came to us Swam the river and informd that the Band of Soauex called the Teton of 80 Lodges were Camped at the next Creek above, & 60 Lodges more a Short distance above, we gave those boys two Carrots of Tobacco to Carry to their Chiefs, with derections to tell them that we would Speek to them tomorrow Capt Lewis walked on Shore this evening, R. F Killed a Doe Goat,-
23rd of September, Sunday, 1804. We set out with a gentle breeze from the southeast. (1) We passed a small island in a bend on the left side, called Goat Island. A short distance above the upper point, a creek about 12 yards wide comes in on the left side. We noticed a lot of smoke to the southwest. I walked on shore and saw buffalo in large herds in the distance. (2) We passed two small willow islands with large sandbars extending from them. (3) We passed Elk Island, which is about 2.5 miles long and 0.75 miles wide, located near the left side and covered with cottonwood. The river's current is referred to by the French as Gres de Butiff, along with grapes and other things. The river is nearly straight for a long distance, wide and shallow. (4) We passed a creek on the left side that's 16 yards wide, which we call Reubens Creek, as R. Fields found it camped on the left side below the mouth of a creek on the right side. Three Sioux boys came to us, swam across the river, and informed us that the band of Sioux called the Teton, consisting of 80 lodges, were camped at the next creek above, along with 60 more lodges a short distance above that. We gave those boys two pieces of tobacco to take to their chiefs, with directions to tell them that we would speak to them tomorrow. Captain Lewis walked on shore this evening, and R. F. killed a doe goat.
[Clark, September 24, 1804]
Monday the 24th of September 1804 a fair morning Set out early, wind from the East, passed the mouth of a Creek on the L. S. Called Creek in high water. passed a large (1) Island on the L. S. about 21/2 Miles long on which Colter had Camped & Killed 4 Elk. the wind from the S. E.—we prepared Some Clothes a few medal for the Chiefs of the Teton band of Sioux we expected to meet at the next River—much Stone on the S. S. of the River, we Saw one hare to day—our Perogues Called at the Island for the Elk, Soon after we passed the Island Colter ran up the bank & reported that the Sioux had taken his horse, we Soon after Saw five indians on the bank; who expressed a wish to come on board, we informed them we were friends, and wished to Continue So, we were not abraid any Indians—Some of their young Men had Stolen a horse Sent by their Great Father to their great Chief, and we Should not Speak to them any more untill the horse was returned to us again—passed a Island about 11/2 m. long on which we Saw maney elk & Buffalow, we Came too off the Mouth of a Small river, The Teton of the burnt woods is Camped 2 Miles up this river, this river we Call Teton is 70 Yds wide and corns in on the S W Side-I went on Shore and Smoked with a Chief, Called Buffalow Medison, who Came to See us here. The Chief Said he Knew nothing of the horse &c &. I informed them we would call the grand Chiefs in Council tomorrow, all continued on board all night
Monday, September 24, 1804, was a nice morning. We set out early with the wind coming from the east. We passed the mouth of a creek on the left side, called Creek in high water. We saw a large island on the left side, about 2.5 miles long, where Colter had camped and killed four elk. The wind was from the southeast. We prepared some clothes and a few medals for the chiefs of the Teton band of Sioux that we expected to meet at the next river. There was a lot of stone on the south side of the river, and we saw one hare today. Our perogues stopped at the island for the elk. Soon after passing the island, Colter ran up the bank and reported that the Sioux had taken his horse. Shortly after, we saw five Indians on the bank who wanted to come on board. We informed them that we were friends and wanted to stay that way; we weren't afraid of any Indians. Some of their young men had stolen a horse sent by their Great Father to their Great Chief, and we wouldn't speak to them anymore until the horse was returned. We passed an island about 1.5 miles long where we saw many elk and buffalo. We stopped at the mouth of a small river. The Teton of the burnt woods was camped 2 miles up this river, which we call Teton; it's 70 yards wide and comes in on the southwest side. I went ashore and smoked with a chief called Buffalo Medicine, who came to see us here. The chief said he knew nothing about the horse, and I informed them we would call the grand chiefs into council tomorrow. Everyone stayed on board all night.
[Clark, September 24, 1804]
24th September Monday 1804 Set out early a fair day the wind from the E, pass the mouth of Creek on the L. S. called on high water; passed (i ) a large Island on the L. S. about 2 miles & 1/2 long on which Colter had Camped & Killed 4 Elk, the wind fair from the S. E. we prepared Some Clothes and a fiew meadels for the Chiefs of the Teton's hand of Seaux which we expect to See to day at the next river, observe a Great Deel of Stone on the Sides of the hills on the S. S. we Saw one Hare to day, prepared all things for action in Case of necessity, our Perogus went to the Island for the meet, Soon after the man on Shore run up the bank and reported that the Indians had Stolen the horse we Soon after met 5 Inds. and ankered out Some distance & Spoke to them informed them we were friends, & wished to Continue So but were not afraid of any Indians, Some of their young men had taken the horse Sent by their Great father for ther Chief and we would not Speek to them untill the horse was returned to us again.
24th September Monday 1804 Set out early on a nice day with the wind from the east. We passed the mouth of a creek on the left side, which we noted during high water; then we passed a large island on the left side, about 2.5 miles long, where Colter had camped and killed 4 elk. The wind was favorable from the southeast, so we prepared some clothes and a few medals for the chiefs of the Teton Sioux that we expected to meet today at the next river. We observed a lot of stones on the sides of the hills on the south side. We saw one hare today and got everything ready for action in case of necessity. Our pirogue went to the island for the meat. Soon after, a man on shore ran up the bank and reported that the Indians had stolen the horse. Shortly after that, we encountered 5 Indians and anchored some distance away. We spoke to them, informing them we were friends and wished to keep it that way, but we were not afraid of any Indians. Some of their young men had taken the horse sent by their Great Father for their chief, and we would not speak to them until the horse was returned to us.
passed (2) a Island on the S. S. on which we Saw Several Elk, about 11/2 miles long Called Good humered Islds. Came to about 11/2 miles above off the mouth of a Small river about 70 yards wide Called by Mr. Evins the Little Mississou River, The Tribes of the Scouix Called the Teton, is Camped about 2 miles up on the N W Side and we Shall Call the River after that nation, Teton This river is 70 yards wide at the mouth of water, and has a considerable Current we anchored off the mouth the french Perogue Come up early in the morning, the other did not get up untill in the evening Soon after we had Came too. I went & Smoked with the Chief who Came to See us here all well, we prepare to Speek with the Indians tomorrow at which time we are informed the Indians will be here, The French man who had for Some time been Sick, began to blead which allarmed him—2/3 of our party Camped on board The remainder with the Guard on Shore.
We passed an island on the S.S. where we saw several elk, about 1.5 miles long, called Good Humored Islands. We arrived about 1.5 miles upstream from the mouth of a small river, around 70 yards wide, which Mr. Evins named the Little Mississou River. The Sioux tribes called it the Teton. They are camped about 2 miles up on the northwest side, and we will name the river after that nation: Teton. This river is 70 yards wide at its mouth and has a strong current. We anchored off the mouth; the French perogue came up early in the morning, while the other boat didn’t arrive until the evening. Soon after we arrived, I went and smoked with the chief who came to see us. Everyone is well; we are preparing to speak with the Indians tomorrow, at which time we’ve been informed that the Indians will be here. The Frenchman who had been sick for a while began to bleed, which alarmed him. Two-thirds of our party camped onboard, while the rest stayed on shore for guard duty.
[Clark, September 25, 1804]
25th of September 1804 off Teton River a fair Morning the wind from the S. E. raised a Flagg Staff and formed an orning & Shade on a Sand bar in the Mouth of Teton R to Council under, the greater portion of the party to Continue on boardabout 11 oClock the 1st & 2d Chief arrived, we gave them to eat; they gave us Some meat, (we discover our interpeter do not Speak the language well) at 12 oClock the Councill Commenced & after Smokeing agreeable to the usial custom C. L. Delivered a written Speech to them, I Some explinations &c. all party Paraded, gave a Medal to the grand Chief in Indian Un-ton gar-Sar bar, or Black Buffalow—2d Torto-hongar, Partezon (Bad fellow) the 3d Tar-ton-gar-wa-ker, Buffalow medison—we invited those Chiefs & a Soldier on board our boat, and Showed them many Curiossites, which they were much Surprised, we gave they 1/2 a wine glass of whiskey which they appeared to be exceedingly fond of they took up an empty bottle, Smelted it, and made maney Simple jestures and Soon began to be troublesom the 2d Chief effecting Drunkness as a Cloak for his vilenous intintious (as I found after wards,) realed or fell about the boat, I went in a perogue with those Chief who left the boast with great reluctians, my object was to reconsile them and leave them on Shore, as Soon as I landed 3 of their young ment Seased the Cable of the Perogue, one Soldiar Huged the mast and the 2d Chief was exceedingly insolent both in words and justures to me declareing I Should no go off, Saying he had not recived presents Suffient from us- I attempted to passify but it had a contrary effect for his insults became So personal and his intentions evident to do me injurey, I Drew my Sword at this motion Capt Louis ordered all in the boat under arms, the fiew men that was with me haveing previously taken up their guns with a full deturmination to defend me if possible—The grand Chief then took hold of the Cable & Sent all the young men off, the Soldier got out of the perogue and the 2nd Chief walked off to the Party at about 20 yards back, all of which had their bows Strung & guns Cocked- I then Spoke in verry positive terms to them all, principaly addressing myself to the 1st Chief, who let the roape go and walked to the Indian, party about, 100 I again offered my hand to the 1st Chief who refused it—(all this time the Indians were pointing their arrows blank-) I proceeded to the perogue and pushed off and had not proceeded far before the 1st & 3r Chief & 2 principal men walked into the water and requested to go on board, I took them in and we proceeded on abot a Mile, and anchored near a Small Island, I call this Island Bad humered Island
25th of September 1804, off Teton River a nice morning with the wind coming from the southeast. We raised a flagpole and set up a canopy on a sandbar at the mouth of the Teton River to hold a meeting. Most of the group stayed on board. Around 11 o'clock, the first and second chiefs arrived, and we provided them with food while they gave us some meat. We noticed our interpreter didn't speak the language well. At 12 o'clock, the council started, and after smoking as is customary, C. L. delivered a written speech to them, along with some explanations, etc. The whole group paraded and presented a medal to the grand chief, known as Un-ton gar-Sar bar, or Black Buffalo—2nd Torto-hongar, Partezon (Bad fellow) and the 3rd Tar-ton-gar-wa-ker, Buffalo medicine. We invited these chiefs and a soldier on board our boat and showed them many curiosities, which surprised them. We gave them half a wine glass of whiskey, which they seemed to enjoy a lot. They picked up an empty bottle, smelled it, and made many simple gestures and soon became troublesome, with the 2nd chief pretended to be drunk as a cover for his malicious intentions (as I found out later), staggering or falling around the boat. I went in a canoe with the chiefs, who reluctantly left the boat; my goal was to reconcile with them and leave them onshore. As soon as I landed, three of their young men grabbed the canoe's cable, one soldier hugged the mast, and the 2nd chief was extremely rude, both verbally and physically, telling me I shouldn't leave, insisting he'd not received enough gifts from us. I tried to calm him down, but it had the opposite effect; his insults became personal, and his intent to harm me was clear. I drew my sword, which made Captain Louis order everyone in the boat to get armed. The few men with me had already picked up their guns, fully determined to defend me if possible. The grand chief then took hold of the cable and sent all the young men away. The soldier got out of the canoe, and the 2nd chief walked back toward the group about 20 yards away, all of whom had their bows strung and guns cocked. I then spoke very firmly to them all, mainly addressing the 1st chief, who let the rope go and walked back to the Indian group about 100 feet away. I offered my hand to the 1st chief again, but he refused it. (During all this time, the Indians were pointing their arrows directly at us.) I got back to the canoe and pushed off, but not far into the water before the 1st & 3rd chiefs and 2 principal men walked into the water and asked to come on board. I took them in, and we moved on about a mile, anchoring near a small island, which I named Bad Humored Island.
[Clark, September 25, 1804]
25th Septr a fair morning the wind from the S. E. all well, raised a Flag Staff & made a orning or Shade on a Sand bar in the mouth of Teton River for the purpose of Speeking with the Indians under, the Boat Crew on board at 70 yards Distance from the bar The 5 Indians which we met last night Continued, about 11 oClock the 1 s & 2d Chief Came we gave them Some of our Provsions to eat, they gave us great quantites of meet Some of which was Spoiled we feel much at a loss for the want of an interpeter the one we have can Speek but little.
25th Sep a nice morning with the wind coming from the southeast. Everything is good. We raised a flagpole and set up a makeshift shade on a sandbar at the mouth of the Teton River to talk with the Indians. The boat crew was about 70 yards away from the bar. The 5 Indians we met last night showed up around 11 o'clock. The 1st and 2nd chiefs came, and we shared some of our provisions with them. They gave us a lot of meat, some of which was spoiled. We're really struggling because we don't have a good interpreter; the one we have can only speak a little.
Met in council at 12 oClock and after Smokeing, agreeable to the usial Custom, Cap Lewis proceeded to Deliver a Speech which we oblige to Curtail for want of a good interpeter all our Party paraded. gave a medal to the Grand Chief Calld. in Indian Un ton gar Sar bar in French Beefe nure Black Buffalow Said to be a good man, 2 Chief Torto hon gar- or the Partisan-or Partizan-bad the 3rd is the Beffe De Medison his name is Tar ton gar wa ker
Met in council at 12 o'clock and after smoking, as is usual custom, Cap Lewis gave a speech which we had to shorten due to the lack of a good interpreter. All our party was present. He presented a medal to the Grand Chief, called in Indian Un ton gar Sar bar, in French Beefe nure Black Buffalow, said to be a good man. The second was Chief Torto hon gar, or the Partisan, and the third is Beffe De Medison, his name is Tar ton gar wa ker.
1. Contesabe man War zing go
1. Contesabe man War zing go
2. do Second Bear = Ma to co que pan
2. do Second Bear = Ma to co que pan
Envited those Cheifs on board to Show them our boat and Such Curiossities as was Strange to them, we gave them 1/4 a glass of whiskey which they appeared to be verry fond of, Sucked the bottle after it was out & Soon began to be troublesom, one the 2d Cheif assumeing Drunkness, as a Cloake for his rascally intentions I went with those Cheifs (which left the boat with great reluctiance) to Shore with a view of reconseleing those men to us, as Soon as I landed the Perogue three of their young men Seased the Cable of the Perogue, the Chiefs Soldr. Huged the mast, and the 2d Chief was verry insolent both in words & justures declareing I Should not go on, Stateing he had not recved presents Suffient from us, his justures were of Such a personal nature I felt my Self Compeled to Draw my Sword, at this motion Capt. Lewis ordered all under arms in the boat, those with me also Showed a Disposition to Defend themselves and me, the grand Chief then took hold of the roop & ordered the young warrers away, I felt my Self warm & Spoke in verry positive terms Most of the warriers appeared to have ther Bows Strung and took out their arrows from they quves. as I was not permited to return, I Sent all the men except 2 Inpt. to the boat, the perogu Soon returned with about 12 of our detumind men ready for any event this movement caused a no. of the Indians to withdraw at a distance,—Their treatment tome was verry rough & I think justified rough ness on my part, they all left my Perogue and Councild. with themselves the result I could not lern and nearly all went off after remaining in this Situation Some time I offered my hand to the 1 & 2 Chief who refusd to recve it. I turned off & went with my men on board the perogue, I had not progd. more the 10 paces before the 1st Cheif 3rd & 2 Brave men waded in after me. I took them in & went on board we proceeded on about 1 mile & anchored out off a willow Island placed a guard on Shore to protect the Cooks & a guard in the boat, fastened the Perogues to the boat, I call this Island bad humered Island as we were in a bad humer.
Invited those chiefs on board to show them our boat and some curiosities that were strange to them. We gave them a quarter glass of whiskey, which they seemed to really enjoy, sucking the bottle once it was empty. They soon started to become troublesome, with one of the second chiefs pretending to be drunk as a cover for his sneaky intentions. I went with those chiefs (who left the boat very reluctantly) to shore hoping to reconcile them with us. As soon as I landed the perogue, three of their young men seized the cable of the perogue, and the chief's soldier hugged the mast. The second chief was very rude, both in words and gestures, declaring I shouldn't go on, stating that he hadn’t received enough gifts from us. His gestures were so personal that I felt compelled to draw my sword. At this, Captain Lewis ordered everyone in the boat to be on guard. Those with me also showed a readiness to defend themselves and me. The grand chief then grabbed the rope and ordered the young warriors away. I felt myself growing warm and spoke very assertively. Most of the warriors seemed to have their bows strung and were taking out their arrows from their quivers. Since I wasn't allowed to return, I sent all the men except for two back to the boat. The perogue soon returned with about twelve of our determined men ready for anything. This movement caused a number of the Indians to withdraw a distance. Their treatment of me was very rough, and I think my roughness was justified. They all left my perogue and held a council among themselves. I couldn't learn the outcome, and nearly all of them left after remaining in this situation for some time. I offered my hand to the first and second chiefs, who refused to take it. I turned away and went back to my men on board the perogue. I hadn’t gone more than ten paces before the first chief, the third, and two brave men waded in after me. I took them in, and we continued on board. We proceeded about a mile and anchored off a willow island, placing a guard on shore to protect the cooks and a guard in the boat. We secured the perogues to the boat. I called this island Bad Humored Island because we were in a bad mood.
[Clark, September 26, 1804]
26th of Septr Set out early and proceeded on—the river lined with indians, came too & anchored by the particular request of the Chiefs to let their Womin & Boys See the Boat, and Suffer them to Show us some friendship—great members of men womin & Children on the bank viewing us—Those people are Spritely Small legs ille looking Set men perticularly, they grease & Black themselves when they dress, make use of Hawks feathers about thier heads, cover with a Roab each a polecat Skin to hold their Smokeables, fond of Dress, Badly armed. ther women appear verry well, fine Teeth, High Cheek Dress in Skin Peticoats, & a Roabe with the flesh Side out and harey ends turned back over their Sholdes, and look well—they doe all the Laborious work, and I may say are perfect Slaves to thier husbands who frequently have Several wives- Capt Lewis & 5 men went on Shore with the Chiefs, who appeared to wish to become friendly they requested us to remain one night & see them dance &c.—in the evening I walked on Shore, and Saw Several Mahar Womin & Boys in a lodge & was told they were Prisones laterly taken in a battle in which they killed a number & took 48 prisoners—I advised the Chiefs to make peace with that nation and give up the Prisoners, if they intended to follow the words of their great father they promised that they would do So—I was in Several Lodges neetly formed, those lodges are about 15 to 20 feet Diametr Stretched on Poles like a Sugar Loaf, made of Buffalow Skins Dressed about 5 oClock I was approached by 10 well Dressed young men with a neet Buffalow Roab which they Set down before me & requested me to get in they Carried me to ther Council Tents forming 3/4 Circle & Set me down betwn 2 Chefs where about 70 men were Seated in a circle, in front of the Chief 6 feet Square was cleared & the pipe of peace raised on forks & Sticks, under which was Swans down Scattered, the Flags of Spane & the one we gave them yesterday was Displayed a large fire was made on which a Dog was Cooked, & in the center about 400 wt of Buffalow meat which they gave us,—Soon after, I took my Seat the young men went to the boat & brought Capt Lewis in the Same way & placed him by me Soon after an old man rose & Spoke approveing what we had done. requesting us to take pitty on them &C. answered—They form their Camp in a circle
26th of September Set out early and continued on—the river was lined with Indians, who came to us and anchored at the specific request of the Chiefs so their women and boys could see the boat and show us some friendship—many men, women, and children were on the bank watching us. These people are lively, small in stature, and look somewhat strange. They grease and paint themselves black when they dress, use hawk feathers in their hair, and wear a robe made of polecat skin to hold their smoking materials. They care a lot about their appearance but are poorly armed. The women look very nice, with good teeth, high cheekbones, dressing in skin petticoats, and a robe with the flesh side out and hairy ends turned back over their shoulders, which looks good—they do all the hard work and can be seen as perfect slaves to their husbands, who often have multiple wives. Captain Lewis and five men went ashore with the Chiefs, who seemed eager to be friendly; they asked us to stay one night to see them dance, etc. In the evening, I walked ashore and saw several Mahar women and boys in a lodge and was told they were prisoners taken in a recent battle, in which they had killed many and captured 48 prisoners. I advised the Chiefs to make peace with that nation and release the prisoners if they intended to follow the wishes of their great father; they promised they would do so. I visited several well-formed lodges; these lodges are about 15 to 20 feet in diameter, stretched on poles like a sugarloaf, made of dressed buffalo skins. Around 5 o'clock, I was approached by 10 well-dressed young men with a neat buffalo robe, which they laid down before me and asked me to get in. They carried me to their council tent, forming a three-quarters circle, and set me down between two chiefs, where about 70 men were seated in a circle. In front of the chief, a 6-foot square was cleared, and the pipe of peace was raised on forks and sticks, under which swan down was scattered; the flags of Spain and the one we gave them yesterday were displayed. A large fire was made on which a dog was cooked, and in the center was about 400 pounds of buffalo meat, which they gave us. Soon after, I took my seat; the young men went back to the boat and brought Captain Lewis in the same way and placed him next to me. Shortly after, an old man rose and spoke, approving what we had done, asking us to be kind to them, etc. answered—They form their camp in a circle.
The great Chief then rose in great State and Spoke to the Same purpos and with Solemnity took up the pipe of peace and pointed it to the heavens, the 4 quartrs and the earth, he made Some divistation, & presented the Sten to us to Smoke, after Smokeing & a Short Harrang to his people we were requested to take the meat, and the Flesh of the Dog gavin us to eat—We Smoked untill Dark, at which time all was cleared away & a large fire made in the Center, Several men with Tamborens highly Decorated with Der & Cabra Hoofs to make them rattle, assembled and began to Sing & Beat—The women Came forward highly decerated with the Scalps & Trofies of war of their fathes Husbands & relations, and Danced the war Dance, which they done with great chearfulness untill 12 oClock, when we informed the Chief we intended return on bord, (they offered us women, which we did not except) 4 Chiefs accompanied us to the boat and Staid all night—Those people have a Description of Men which they Call Soldiars, those men attend to the police of the Band, Correct all vices &. I Saw one to day whip 2 Squars who appeared to have fallen out, when the Soldier approached all appeared give way and flee at night they Keep 4 or 5 men at different distances walking around their Camp Singing the acursenes of the night all in Spirits this evening wind hard from the S E
The great Chief then stood up with great dignity and spoke with purpose. With solemnity, he picked up the peace pipe and pointed it to the heavens, the four corners, and the earth. He made some offerings and presented the pipe to us to smoke. After smoking and giving a short speech to his people, we were invited to eat the meat, including dog, which was given to us. We smoked until dark, at which time everything was cleared away, and a large fire was made in the center. Several men with tambourines, decorated with deer and goat hooves to make them rattle, gathered and started to sing and beat the drums. The women came forward, adorned with the scalps and war trophies of their fathers, husbands, and relatives, and danced the war dance, which they did cheerfully until midnight. When we told the Chief we intended to return to the boat, they offered us women, which we declined. Four chiefs accompanied us to the boat and stayed all night. These people have a group they call soldiers, who help maintain order in the community and correct any wrongdoings. I saw one today whip two girls who seemed to have been arguing; when the soldier approached, everyone stepped aside and fled. At night, they keep four or five men at different distances walking around their camp, singing to ward off evil spirits. This evening, the wind blew hard from the southeast.
I saw 25 Squars & Boys taken 13 days ago in a battle with the Mahars, in which they destroyed 40 Lodges, Killed 75 men & boys, & took 48 prisones which they promised us Should be delivered to Mr. Durion now with the Yankton _____, we gave our Mahar interpeter a few alls & &. to give those retched Prisonis, I saw Homney of ground Potatos a Spoon of the Big Horn animals which will hold 2 quarts.
I saw 25 Squars and boys taken 13 days ago in a battle with the Mahars, where they destroyed 40 lodges, killed 75 men and boys, and captured 48 prisoners, which they promised would be delivered to Mr. Durion now with the Yankton _____. We gave our Mahar interpreter a few all’s and &. to give those poor prisoners. I saw Homney of ground potatoes, a spoon of the Big Horn animals which will hold 2 quarts.
[Clark, September 26, 1804]
26th Septr. 1804 bad hd Isd. 26th of September Wednesday 1804 Set out early proceeded on and Came to by the wish of the Chiefs for to let their Squars & boys See the Boat and Suffer them to treat us well great number of men women & Children on the banks viewing us, these people Shew great anxiety, they appear Spritely, generally ill looking & not well made thier legs & arms Small Generally—they Grese & Black themselves with coal when they dress, make use of a hawks feather about their heads the men a robe & each a polecats Skins, for to hold ther Bais roly for Smokeing fond of Dress & Show badly armed with fuseis &. The Squaws are Chearfull fine lookg womin not handson, High Cheeks Dressed in Skins a Peticoat and roab which foldes back over thir Sholder, with long wool. doe all ther laborious work & I may Say perfect Slaves to the men, as all Squars of nations much at war, or where the womin are more noumerous than the men—after Comeing too Capt. Lewis & 5 men went on Shore with the Chiefs, who appeared desposed to make up & be friendly, after Captain Lewis had been on Shore about 3 hours I became uneasy for fear of Some Deception & sent a Serjeant to See him and know his treatment which he reported was friendly, & thy were prepareing for a Dance this evening
26th Sep 1804 bad hd Isd. 26th of September, Wednesday, 1804. We set out early, continued on, and arrived at the request of the chiefs to let their women and boys see the boat and allow them to treat us well. A large number of men, women, and children were on the banks watching us. These people showed great anxiety; they appeared lively, generally unappealing, and not well-built. Their legs and arms were typically small. They cover themselves in grease and black coal when they dress, using a hawk's feather in their hair. The men wear a robe and have a polecat skin to hold their pipes for smoking. They take pleasure in dressing up and showing off, but they are poorly armed with fusils. The women are cheerful and good-looking, though not beautiful, with high cheekbones. They dress in skins, wearing a petticoat and a robe that folds back over their shoulders, with long hair. They do all the demanding work and, I must say, are practically slaves to the men, as is the case with women in nations frequently at war or where there are more women than men. After coming to a halt, Captain Lewis and five men went ashore with the chiefs, who seemed inclined to reconcile and be friendly. After Captain Lewis had been ashore for about three hours, I became anxious, fearing some deception, and sent a sergeant to check on him and report his treatment, which he said was friendly. They were preparing for a dance that evening.
The made frequent Selecitiation for us to remain one night only and let them Show their good disposition towards us, we deturmined to remain, after the return of Capt. Lewis, I went on Shore I saw Several Maha Prisoners and Spoke to the Chiefs it was necessary to give those prisoners up & become good friends with the Mahars if they wished to follow the advice of their Great father I was in Several Lodges neetly formed as before mentioned as to the Bauruly Tribe—I was met by about 10 well Dressd. yound men who took me up in a roabe Highly a decrated and Set me Down by the Side of their Chief on a Dressed robe in a large Council House this house formed a 3/4 Cercle of Skins well Dressed and Sown together under this Shelter about 70 men Set forming a Circle in front of the Chiefs a plac of 6 feet Diameter was Clear and the pipe of peace raised on Sticks under which there was Swans down Scattered, on each Side of the Circle two Pipes, The flags of Spain 2 & the Flag we gave them in front of the Grand Chief a large fire was near in which provisions were Cooking, in the Center about 400 wt. of excellent Buffalo Beif as a present for us
They frequently requested us to stay just one night and let them show their goodwill toward us. After Captain Lewis returned, we decided to stay. When I went ashore, I saw several Maha prisoners and spoke with the chiefs. It was necessary to release those prisoners and become allies with the Mahars if they wanted to heed the advice of their Great Father. I visited several lodges, neatly formed as previously mentioned regarding the Bauruly Tribe. I was greeted by about ten well-dressed young men who wrapped me in a beautifully decorated robe and set me down beside their chief on a dressed robe in a large council house. This house had a three-quarters circle of well-dressed skins sewn together. Under this shelter, around seventy men sat in a circle in front of the chiefs. A clear space of six feet in diameter was left open for the peace pipe, which was raised on sticks, and swan down was scattered underneath. On each side of the circle were two pipes, the flags of Spain, and the flag we gave them, placed in front of the Grand Chief. A large fire nearby was cooking provisions, and in the center, there were about 400 pounds of excellent buffalo beef as a gift for us.
Soon after they set me Down, the men went for Capt Lewis brough him in the same way and placed him also by the Chief in a fiew minits an old man rose & Spoke approveing what we had done & informing us of their Situation requesting us to take pity on them &c which was answered The Great Chief then rose with great State to the Same purpote as far as we Could learn & then with Great Solemnity took up the pipe of peace whin the principal Chiefs Spoke with the pipe of Peace he took in one hand Some of the most Delicate parts of the Dog which was prepared for the feist & made a Sacrifise to the flag—& after pointing it to the heavins the 4 quarter of the Globe & the earth,, lit it and prosist presented the Stem to us to Smoke, after a Smoke had taken place, & a Short Harange to his people, we were requested to take the meal put before us the dog which they had been cooking, & Pemitigon & ground potatoe in Several platters. Pemn is buffo meat dried or baked pounded & mixed with grease raw Dog Sioux think great dishused on festivals. eat little of dog pemn & pote good we Smoked for an hour Dark & all was Cleared away a large fire made in the Center, about 10 misitions playing on tamberins. long sticks with Deer & Goats Hoofs tied So as to make a gingling noise and many others of a Similer kind, those men began to Sing, & Beet on the Tamboren, the women Came foward highly Deckerated in theire way, with the Scalps and Trofies of war of ther father Husbands Brothers or near Connection & proceeded to Dance the war Dance which they done with Great Chearfullness untill 12 oClock when we informed the Cheifs that they were fatigued &c. they then retired & we Accompd. by 4 Chiefs returned to our boat, they Stayed with us all night. Those people have Some brave men which they make use of as Soldiers those men attend to the police of the Village Correct all errors I saw one of them to day whip 2 Squars who appeared to have fallen out, when he approachd all about appeared to flee with great turrow at night thy keep two 3 4 or 5 men at deffinit Distances walking around Camp Singing the accurrunces of the night all the men on board 100 paces from Shore wind from the S. E. moderate one man verry sick on board with a Dangerass abscess on his Hip. all in Spirits this eveninge
Soon after we were set down, the men went for Captain Lewis, brought him in the same way, and placed him next to the Chief. A few minutes later, an old man stood up and spoke, approving what we had done and informing us of their situation, asking us to have pity on them, etc. The Great Chief then rose with great dignity for the same purpose, as far as we could understand, and then, with great solemnity, took up the pipe of peace. When the principal chiefs spoke with the pipe of peace, he took some of the most delicate parts of the dog that was prepared for the feast and made a sacrifice to the flag. After pointing it to the heavens, the four corners of the Earth, and the ground, he lit it and proceeded to present the stem to us to smoke. After we smoked and he gave a short speech to his people, we were invited to eat the meal that was laid out for us: the dog they had been cooking, pemmican, and ground potatoes on several platters. Pemmican is dried or baked buffalo meat that is pounded and mixed with grease; the raw dog is considered a great dish used at festivals. We ate very little of the dog, but the pemmican and potatoes were good. We smoked for an hour in the dark, and everything was cleared away as a large fire was made in the center. About ten men were playing on tambourines—long sticks with deer and goat hooves tied to make a jingling noise, along with many others of a similar kind. Those men began to sing and beat on the tambourines while the women came forward, highly decorated in their way, with the scalps and trophies of war from their fathers, husbands, brothers, or close relatives, and proceeded to dance the war dance, which they did with great cheerfulness until midnight. When we informed the chiefs that they were tired, they then retired, and we, accompanied by four chiefs, returned to our boat. They stayed with us all night. These people have some brave men who serve as soldiers; they handle the village police and correct any mistakes. I saw one of them today whip two women who seemed to have had a disagreement. When he approached, everyone around appeared to flee in great terror. At night, they keep two, three, four, or five men at definite distances walking around the camp, singing about the events of the night. All the men on board are 100 paces from shore, with a moderate wind from the southeast. One man is very sick on board with a dangerous abscess on his hip. Everyone is in good spirits this evening.
In this Tribe I saw 25 Squars and boys taken 13 days ago in a battle with the mahars in this battle they Destroyd 40 lodges, killed 75 men, & Som boys & children, & took 48 Prisones Womin & boys which they promis both Capt. Lewis and my Self Shall be Delivered up to Mr. Durion at the Tribe, those are a retched and Dejected looking people the Squars appear low & Corse but this is an unfavourabl time to judge of them we gave our Mahar inteptr. Some fiew articles to give those Squats in his name Such as alls needle &. &c.
In this tribe, I saw 25 women and boys who had been captured 13 days ago in a battle with the Mahars. In that battle, they destroyed 40 lodges, killed 75 men, as well as some boys and children, and took 48 women and boys as prisoners. They promised both Captain Lewis and me that they would be handed over to Mr. Durion at the tribe. These are a wretched and dejected-looking people; the women appear low and coarse, but this is not a good time to judge them. We gave our Mahar interpreter a few items to distribute to these women in his name, such as needles and so on.
I Saw & eat Pemitigon the Dog, Groud potatoe made into a Kind of homney, which I thought but little inferior—I also Saw a Spoon made of a horn of an animile of the Sheep kind the spoon will hold 2 quarts.
I saw and ate pemmican made from dog, ground potatoes turned into a sort of honey, which I thought was only slightly less impressive—I also saw a spoon made from a sheep's horn that could hold 2 quarts.
[Clark, September 27, 1804]
27th of Septr. 1804—The Bank as usial lined with Sioux, gave the 2 principal Chiefs a blanket & a peck of Corn each, Capt Lewis accompanied the Chiefs to their Lodges, they informed us that a great part of their nation had not arrived, & would arrive to night and requested us to Delay one Day longer, that they might See us
27th of September 1804—The bank, as usual, was filled with Sioux. We gave the two main chiefs a blanket and a peck of corn each. Captain Lewis went with the chiefs to their lodges. They told us that a large part of their nation hadn't arrived yet and would be getting here tonight. They asked us to wait one more day so they could see us.
I rote a letter to Mr. Durion, & prepared Some Commissions & a meadel & Sent to Captain Lewis—at 2 oClock Capt Lewis retuned with 4 chiefs & a Brave man named War-cha pa—after a delay of half an hour I went with them on Shore, they left the boat with reluctiance (we Suspect they are treacherous and are at all times guarded & on our guard) They again offered me a young woman and wish me to take her & not Dispise them, I wavered the Subject, at Dark the Dance began as usial and performed as last night. womin with ther Husbands & relations cloths arms Scalps on poles &c. &c. Capt Lewis joined me & we continued until about 11 oClock and 2 Chief accompaned us to the boat I with 2 Cheifs was in a Perogue going on board, by bad Stearing the parogu Struk the Cable with Such force as to brake it near the anchor (Cap Lewis) and 3 or 4 men on Shore, I had all hands up and was Compelled to Land—the Chief got allarmed & allarmed the Indians the 1s Chief & about 200 men Came down in great hast armd and for action, and found it was false, about 20 of them Camped on Shore all night—this allarm Cap Lewis & well as my Self viewed as the Signal of their intentions, one half on guard, our misfortune of loseing our anchor obliged us to lay under a falling in bank much exposed to the Accomplishment of the hostile intentions of those Tetons (who we had every reason to believe from ther Conduct intended to make an attempt to Stop our progress & if possible rob us-) Peter Crusat who Spoke Mahar came in the night and informed me that the mahar Prisoners told him that the Tetons intended to Stop us—We Shew'd but little Sign of a knowledge of there intentions.
I wrote a letter to Mr. Durion, prepared some commissions and a medal, and sent them to Captain Lewis. At 2 o'clock, Captain Lewis returned with four chiefs and a brave man named War-cha pa. After a delay of half an hour, I went ashore with them. They got out of the boat reluctantly (we suspect they are untrustworthy and we need to be cautious at all times). They again offered me a young woman and asked me to accept her, insisting that I not look down on them. I avoided the topic. When it got dark, the dance started as usual, similar to last night, with women alongside their husbands and relations, displaying clothes, arms, scalps on poles, etc. Captain Lewis joined me, and we stayed until about 11 o'clock, at which point two chiefs accompanied us back to the boat. I was in a pirogue with two chiefs heading on board when, due to poor steering, the pirogue struck the cable with such force that it broke near the anchor (that belonged to Captain Lewis), and three or four men on shore. I called everyone up and was forced to land. The chiefs got alarmed and alerted the Indians; the first chief and about 200 men rushed down, armed and ready for action, only to find it was a false alarm. About 20 of them camped on shore all night. Both Captain Lewis and I saw this alarm as a sign of their intentions; one half of them were on guard. Our misfortune in losing our anchor forced us to stay under a crumbling bank, making us vulnerable to the hostile intentions of those Tetons (who we had every reason to believe, based on their conduct, intended to try and stop our progress and possibly rob us). Peter Crusat, who spoke Mahar, came during the night and informed me that the Mahar prisoners told him the Tetons planned to stop us. We showed very little sign of knowing their intentions.
[Clark, September 27, 1804]
27th of Septr. Thursday 1804 I rose early aftr a bad nights Sleep found the Chief all up, and the bank as usial lined with Spectators we gave the 2 great Cheifs a Blanket a peace, or rethr they took off agreeable to their Custom the one they lay on and each one Peck of Corn after Brackfast Capt. Lewis & the Chiefs went on Shore, as a verry large part of their nation was Comeing in, the Disposition of whome I did not know one of us being Suffcent on Shore, I wrote a letter to Mr. P. Durion & prepared a meadel & Some Comsns. & Sent to Cap Lewis at 2 oClock Capt. Lewis returned with 4 Chiefs & a Brave man named War cha pa or on his Guard. when the friends of those people die they run arrows through their flesh above and below their elbous as a testimony of their Greaf after Staying about half an hour, I went with them on Shore, Those men left the boat with reluctience, I went first to the 2d Chiefs Lodge, where a Croud Came around after Speeking on various Subjects I went to a princpal mans lodge from there to the grand Chiefs lodge, after a fiew minits he invited me to a Lodge within the Circle in which I Stayed with all their principal men untill the Dance began, which was Similer to the one of last night performed by their womn which poles on which Scalps of their enemies were hung, Some with the Guns Spears & war empliments their husbands in their hands
September 27, 1804, Thursday. I got up early after a bad night's sleep and found the Chief already awake, with the riverbank lined with spectators as usual. We gave the two great Chiefs a blanket each, or rather, they took them off as per their custom—the one they lay on—and each received a peck of corn. After breakfast, Captain Lewis and the Chiefs went ashore, as a large part of their nation was arriving, whose purpose I didn't know. Since one of us was sufficient on shore, I wrote a letter to Mr. P. Durion and prepared a medal and some commissions, then sent them to Captain Lewis. At 2 o'clock, Captain Lewis returned with four Chiefs and a brave man named War cha pa, who was on guard. When the friends of those people die, they run arrows through their flesh above and below their elbows as a sign of their grief. After staying about half an hour, I went ashore with them. The men reluctantly left the boat. I first visited the second Chief's lodge, where a crowd gathered. After discussing various topics, I went to the lodge of a principal man and then to the grand Chief's lodge. After a few minutes, he invited me to a lodge inside the circle, where I stayed with all their principal men until the dance began, which was similar to the one from last night, performed by their women with poles on which the scalps of their enemies were hung, along with the guns, spears, and war implements their husbands held in their hands.
Capt. Lewis came on Shore and we Continued untill we were Sleepy & returned to our boat, the 2nd Chief & one principal man accompanid us, those two Indians accompanied me on board in the Small Perogue, Capt. Lewis with a guard Still on Shore, the man who Steered not being much acustomed to Steer, passed the bow of the boat & peroge Came broad Side against the Cable & broke it which obliged me to order in a loud voice all hands all hands up & at their ores, my preempty order to the men and the bustle of their getting to their ores allarmd the Cheifs, togethr with the appearance of the men on Shore, as the boat turnd. The Cheif hollowered & allarmed the Camp or Town informing them that the Mahars was about attacting us. in about 10 minits the bank was lined with men armed the 1st Cheif at their head, about 200 men appeared and after about 1/2 hour returned all but about 60 men who Continued on the bank all night, the Cheifs Contd. all night with us—This allarm I as well as Captn. Lewis Considered as the Signal of their intentions (which was to Stop our proceeding on our journey and if Possible rob us) we were on our Guard all night, the misfortune of the loss of our Anchor obliged us to Lay under a falling bank much exposd. to the accomplishment of their hostile intentions P. C—our Bowman who Cd. Speek Mahar informed us in the night that the Maha Prisoners informed him we were to be Stoped—we Shew as little Sighns of a Knowledge of their intentions as possible all prepared on board for any thing which might hapen, we kept a Strong guard all night in the boat no Sleep
Capt. Lewis came ashore and we kept going until we got sleepy and returned to our boat. The second chief and one important man joined us. Those two Indians came aboard in the small canoe while Capt. Lewis stayed on shore with a guard. The man steering wasn’t very experienced, and he lost control, causing the bow of the boat and canoe to hit the cable and break it. This forced me to shout loudly for everyone to get to their oars. My urgent command and the hustle of the crew getting ready alarmed the chiefs, along with the sight of the men on shore as the boat turned. The chief shouted and warned the camp or town that the Mahars were about to attack us. In about ten minutes, the bank was lined with armed men, with the first chief leading them. Around 200 men appeared, and after about half an hour, most of them left except for about 60 who stayed on the bank all night. The chiefs remained with us all night. Both Capt. Lewis and I considered this alarm a signal of their intentions, which were to stop us from continuing our journey and, if possible, rob us. We stayed on guard all night since losing our anchor forced us to stay under a collapsing bank, leaving us exposed to their hostile plans. Our bowman, who could speak Mahar, informed us during the night that the Mahar prisoners told him we would be stopped. We showed as few signs of awareness of their intentions as possible and got everything ready onboard for whatever might happen. We kept a strong guard in the boat all night and got no sleep.
[Clark, September 28, 1804]
28th of Septr 1804 Friday I made maney attempts in defferent ways to find our anchor without Sukcess, the Sand had Covered her up, we Deturmined to proceed on to Day—and after Brackfast we with great Dificuelty got the Chiefs out of the boat, and when we were about Setting out the Class Called the Soldiars took possession of the Cable- the 1st Cheif was Still on board and intended to go a Short distance up with us, was informed that the men Set on the Cable, he went out and told Capt Lewis who was at the Bow, they wanted tobacco The 2d Chief Demanded a flag & Tobacco which we refused to give, Stateing proper reasons to them for it, after much rangleing, we gave a Carrot of Tobacco to the 1st Cheif and he to the men &lurked the Cable from them & proceeded on under a Breeze from the S E. we took in the 3rd Cheif who was Sitting on a Sand bar 2 miles above—he told us the Rope was held by order of the 2d Chief who was a Double Spoken man—Soon after we Saw a man rideing full Speed up the bank, we brought him on board, & he proved to be the Sun of the 3d Cheif, by him we Sent a talk to the nation, explanitory of our hoisting the red flag under the white, if they were for Peace Stay at home and doe as we had Derected them and if they were for war or deturmined to attempt to Stop us, we were ready to defend our Selves (as I had before Said)—we Substituted large Stones in place of an Anchor, we came to at a Small Sand bar in the middle of the river and Stayed all night-I am verry unwell I think for the want of Sleep
28th of September 1804, Friday. I made many attempts in different ways to find our anchor without success; the sand had covered it up. We decided to proceed today, and after breakfast, we managed with great difficulty to get the Chiefs out of the boat. Just as we were about to set out, the group called the Soldiers took possession of the cable. The 1st Chief was still on board and intended to go a short distance with us. He was informed that the men took hold of the cable, so he went and told Captain Lewis, who was at the bow, that they wanted tobacco. The 2nd Chief demanded a flag and tobacco, which we refused to give, explaining our reasons to them. After much arguing, we gave a carrot of tobacco to the 1st Chief, who then gave it to the men and got the cable from them. We proceeded on under a breeze from the southeast. We picked up the 3rd Chief, who was sitting on a sandbar two miles upstream. He told us the rope had been held by order of the 2nd Chief, who was a double-talker. Soon after, we saw a man riding full speed up the bank. We brought him on board, and he turned out to be the son of the 3rd Chief. Through him, we sent a message to the nation, explaining our reason for hoisting the red flag under the white. If they wanted peace, they should stay home and do as we had directed; if they were for war or determined to stop us, we were ready to defend ourselves, as I had said before. We substituted large stones in place of an anchor and came to rest at a small sandbar in the middle of the river, staying there all night. I'm feeling very unwell; I think it's from lack of sleep.
[Clark, September 28, 1804]
28th of September 1804 Friday Made many attemps in different ways to find our Anchor but could not, the Sand had Covered it, from the misfortune of last night our boat was laying at Shore in a verry unfavourable Situation, after finding that the anchor Could not be found we deturmined to proceed on, with great difficuelty got the Chiefs out of our boat, and when we was about Setting out the Class Called the Soldiers took possession of the Cable the 1 s Chief which was Still on board & intended to go a Short distance up with us, I told him the men of his nation Set on the Cable, he went out & told Capt Lewis who was at the bow the men who Set on the Roap was Soldiers and wanted Tobacco Capt. L. Said would not agree to be forced into any thing, the 2d Chief Demanded a flag & Tobacco which we refusd. to Give Stateing proper reasons to them for it after much difucelty-which had nearly reduced us to hostility I threw a Carot of Tobacco to 1 s Chief Spoke So as to touch his pride took the port fire from the gunner the Chief gives the Tobaco to his Soldiers & he jurked the rope from them and handed it to the bows man we then Set out under a Breeze from the S. E. about 2 miles up we observed the 3rd Chief on Shore beckining to us we took him on board he informed us the roap was held by the order of the 2d Chief who was a Double Spoken man, Soon after we Saw a man Comeing full Speed, thro the plains left his horse & proceeded across a Sand bar near the Shore we took him on board & observed that he was the Son of the Chief we had on board we Sent by him a talk to the nation Stateent the Cause of our hoisting the red flag undr. the white, if they were for peace Stay at home & do as we had Derected them, if the were for war ore were Deturmined to Stop us we were ready to defend our Selves, we halted one houre & 1/2 on the S. S. & made a Substitute of Stones for a ancher, refreshed our men and proceeded on about 2 miles higher up & came too a verry Small Sand bar in the middle of the river & Stayed all night, I am Verry unwelle for want of Sleep Deturmined to Sleep to night if possible, the men Cooked & we rested well.
September 28, 1804, Friday. I made several attempts in different ways to find our anchor but couldn't; the sand had covered it. After the misfortune of last night, our boat was left on shore in a very unfavorable position. Once we realized we couldn't locate the anchor, we decided to move on. With great difficulty, we got the chiefs out of our boat, and just as we were about to leave, the group called the Soldiers took hold of the cable belonging to the first chief, who was still on board and intended to go a short distance with us. I told him that his men were on the cable. He went out to inform Captain Lewis, who was at the bow, that the men who were on the rope were Soldiers and wanted tobacco. Captain Lewis said he wouldn't agree to be forced into anything. The second chief demanded a flag and tobacco, which we refused to give, explaining our reasons to them. After much difficulty, which almost led us to hostility, I threw a carrot of tobacco to the first chief, speaking in a way that touched his pride. I took the port fire from the gunner; the chief gave the tobacco to his Soldiers, jerked the rope from them, and handed it to the bowman. We then set out with a breeze from the southeast. About two miles up, we saw the third chief on shore beckoning to us, so we took him on board. He informed us that the rope was held at the order of the second chief, who was a double-tongued man. Soon after, we saw a man coming full speed across the plains. He left his horse and crossed a sandbar near the shore. We took him on board and found out he was the son of the chief we already had with us. We sent a message to the nation stating the reason for raising the red flag under the white one: if they wanted peace, they should stay at home and do as we directed; if they wanted war or were determined to stop us, we were ready to defend ourselves. We halted for an hour and a half on the south side, made a substitute anchor out of stones, refreshed our men, and proceeded about two miles higher. We came to a very small sandbar in the middle of the river and stayed there for the night. I am feeling very unwell from lack of sleep and plan to rest tonight if possible. The men cooked, and we rested well.
[Clark, September 29, 1804]
Capt. W. Clarks Notes Continued as first taken- 29th of September Satturday 1804—Set out early Some bad Sand bars, at 9 oClock we observed the 2d Chief with 2 men and Squars on Shore, they wished to go up with us as far as the other part of their band, which would meet us on the river above not far Distant we refused to let one more Come on board Stateing Suffient reasons, observd they would walk on Shore to the place we intended to Camp, offered us women we objected and told them we Should not Speake to another teton except the one on board with us, who might go on Shore when ever he pleased, those Indians proceeded on untill later in the evening when the Chief requested that the Perogue might put him across the river which we agreed to—Saw numbers of Elk on the Sand bars today, passed an old Ricara Village at the mouth of a Creek without timber we Stayed all night on the Side of a sand bar 1/2 a Mile from the Shore.
Capt. W. Clark's Notes Continued as first taken - September 29 Saturday 1804 - Left early. There were some bad sandbars. At 9 o'clock, we saw the second chief with two men and women on shore. They wanted to join us and go up to where the rest of their group would meet us on the river not far away. We refused to let anyone else come on board, stating sufficient reasons. They said they would walk on shore to where we intended to camp and offered us women, but we declined. We told them we wouldn’t speak to any other Teton except the one on board with us, who could go ashore whenever he wanted. The Indians continued on until later in the evening when the chief asked if the pirogue could take him across the river, and we agreed. We saw a lot of elk on the sandbars today and passed an old Ricara village at the mouth of a creek without timber. We stayed overnight on the side of a sandbar half a mile from the shore.
[Clark, September 29, 1804]
29th of Septr. Satturday 1804 Set out early Some bad Sand bars, proceeded on at 9 oClock we observed the 2d Chief & 2 principal men one man & a Squar on Shore, they wished to go up with us as far as the other part of their band, which they Said was on the river a head not far Distant we refused Stateing verry Sufhcint reasons and was plain with them on the Subject, they were not pleased observed that they would walk on Shore to the place we intended to Camp to night, we observed it was not our wish that they Should for if they did we Could not take them or any other Tetons on board except the one we had now with us who might go on Shore when ever he pleased- they proceeded on, the Chief on board askd. for a twist of Tobacco for those men we gave him 1/2 a twist, and Sent one by them for that part of their band which we did not See, & Continued on Saw great numbers of Elk at the mouth of a Small Creek Called No timber (-as no timber appeared to be on it.) above the mouth of this Creek the Parties had a Village 5 years ago,—The 2d Chief Came on the Sand bar & requested we would put him across the river, I Sent a Perogue & Crossed him & one man to the S. S. and proceeded on & Came too on a Sand bar on about 1/2 mile from the main Shore & put on it 2 Sentinals Continud all night at anchor (we Substitute large Stones for anchors in place of the one we lost) all in high Spirits &c
September 29th, Saturday, 1804. We set out early. There were some bad sandbars along the way. At 9 o'clock, we saw the second chief and two key leaders—one man and a woman—on the shore. They wanted to travel with us to meet the rest of their group, which they said was just ahead on the river. We declined, explaining our reasons clearly, and they were unhappy about it. They mentioned that they would walk along the shore to the campsite we had planned for the night. We made it clear that we didn’t want them to do that because if they did, we couldn’t take them or any other Tetons on board, except for the one with us who could go ashore whenever he wanted. They moved on, and the chief on board asked for a twist of tobacco for those men. We gave him half a twist and sent one for the part of their group we didn’t see, then continued on. We saw lots of elk at the mouth of a small creek called “No Timber” (since no timber was evident there). Five years ago, the parties had a village just above this creek. The second chief came onto the sandbar and asked us to take him across the river. I sent a pirogue to ferry him and one man to the south side, then we proceeded and anchored on a sandbar about half a mile from the main shore, putting two sentinels on duty. We stayed all night at anchor (using large stones as anchors instead of the one we lost), all in high spirits, etc.
[Clark, September 30, 1804]
30th of September Sunday 1804 had not proceeded far before we discovered an Indian running after us, he requstd to go with us to the Ricaras, we refused to take him, I discovered at a great Distanc a great number of men women & Children decending a hill towards the river above which the Chief with us told us was the other Band, Some rain & hard wind at about 10 oClock we anchored opposit the Camps of this band and told them we took them by the hand, and Sent to each Chief a Carrot of Tobacco & Some to the principal men and farther Said that after Staying with the band below 2 days to See them we had been badly treated and Should not land again, as we had not time to Delay—refured then to Mr. Durion for a full account of us, and an explination of what had been Said, they appeard ansioes for us to eat with them and observed they were friendly we apoligised & proceeded on under a Double reafed Sale—the Chief on board threw out to those that ran up Small pieces of Tobacco & told them to go back and open thier ears, We Saw great number of white guls—refresh the party with whiskey, in the evening we Saw 2 Indians at a Distance, The boat turned by accident & was nearly filling and rocked verry much, allarmed the Indian Chief on board who ran and hid himself, we landed & the Indian express a wish to return, we gave him a Blanket Knife & Some tobacco and advised him to keep his men away, we camped on a Sand bar. verry Cold & windy-
30th of September, Sunday, 1804, didn’t take long before we noticed an Indian running after us. He asked to join us to the Ricaras, but we refused to take him. I spotted a large group of men, women, and children coming down a hill toward the river, which the Chief with us said belonged to the other band. After some rain and strong winds around 10 o'clock, we anchored across from the camps of this band and greeted them, sending a carrot of tobacco to each chief and some to the principal men. We also told them that after staying with the band below for two days, where we had been treated poorly, we wouldn’t land again as we didn’t have time to waste. We referred them to Mr. Durion for a full account of us and an explanation of what had been said. They seemed eager for us to eat with them and noted they were friendly, but we apologized and continued on under a double-reefed sail. The Chief on board tossed small pieces of tobacco to those who ran up and told them to go back and listen. We saw a lot of white gulls—refreshing the party with whiskey. In the evening, we spotted two Indians in the distance. The boat accidentally turned and nearly filled with water, rocking a lot, which alarmed the Indian Chief on board who ran and hid. We landed, and the Indian expressed a desire to return. We gave him a blanket, a knife, and some tobacco, advising him to keep his men away. We camped on a sandbar; it was very cold and windy.
[Clark, September 30, 1804]
30th of Septr. Sunday 1804. Set out this morning early had not proceeded on far before we discovered an Indn. running after us, he came up with us at 7 oClock & requested to come on bord and go up to the recorees we refused to take any of that band on board if he chose to proceed on Shore it was verry well Soon after I discovered on the hills at a great distance great numbers of Indians which appeared to be makeing to the river above us, we proceeded on under a Double reafed Sail, & Some rain at 9 oClock observed a large band of Indians the Same which I had before Seen on the hills incamping on the bank the L. S. we Came too on a Sand bar Brackfast & proceeded on & cast the ancher opposit their Lodgs. at about 100 yards distand, and informed the Indians which we found to be a part of the Band we had before Seen, that took them by the hand and Sent to each Chief a Carrot of tobacco, as we had been treated badly by Some of the band below, after Staying 2 days for them, we Could not delay any time, & refured them to Mr. Duron for a full account of us and to here our talk Sent by him to the Tetons, those were verry Selecitious for us to land and eate with them, that they were friendly &c. &. we appoligised & proceeded on, Sent the peroge to Shore above with the Tobacco & Delivd. it to a Soldr. of the Chief with us Several of them ran up the river, the Chf. on board threw then out a Small twist of Tobacco & told them to go back & open ther ears. they recved the Tobacco & returned to their lodges—we Saw great numbers of white guls this day is cloudy & rainey—refresh the men with a glass of whisky after Brackfast.
30th of September, Sunday, 1804. We set out early this morning and hadn't gone far before we spotted an Indian running after us. He caught up with us at 7 o'clock and asked to come on board and go up to the records. We refused to take any members of that band on board, but we told him that if he wanted to proceed ashore, that was fine. Soon after, I noticed a large number of Indians on the hills in the distance, seemingly making their way to the river above us. We continued on with a double-reefed sail, and it started to rain. At 9 o'clock, I saw a large group of Indians, the same ones I had spotted before on the hills, setting up camp on the left bank. We came to a stop on a sandbar for breakfast and then proceeded, dropping anchor opposite their lodges, about 100 yards away. I informed the Indians we encountered, who turned out to be part of the band we had seen earlier, by shaking their hands and sending each chief a piece of tobacco. Since we had been mistreated by some members of the band below, we couldn't wait any longer after staying two days for them. We referred them to Mr. Duron for a complete account of us and our message sent by him to the Tetons. They were very selective about us landing and eating with them, claiming they were friendly, etc. We apologized and moved on, sending the perogue to shore above with the tobacco and delivering it to a soldier of the chief accompanying us. Several of them ran up the river, and the chief on board tossed out a small twist of tobacco, telling them to go back and listen closely. They accepted the tobacco and returned to their lodges. We saw a lot of white gulls today, and the weather is cloudy and rainy. I refreshed the men with a glass of whiskey after breakfast.
we Saw about 6 miles above 2 Indians who came to the bank and looked at us a about 1/2 an hour & went over the hills to the S W. we proceeded on under a verry Stiff Breeze from the S., the Stern of the boat got fast on a log and the boat turned & was verry near filling before we got her righted, the waves being verry high, The Chief on board was So fritined at the motion of the boat which in its rocking caused Several loose articles to fall on the Deck from the lockers, he ran off and hid himself, we landed he got his gun and informed us he wished to return, that all things were Cleare for us to go on we would not See any more Tetons &c. we repeated to him what had been Said before and advised him to keep his men away, gave him a blanket a Knife & Some Tobacco, Smokd a pipe & he Set out. we also Set Sale and Came to at a Sand bar, & Camped, a verrey Cold evening, all on our guard
We saw about 6 miles ahead two Native Americans who came to the bank and watched us for about half an hour before heading over the hills to the southwest. We continued on with a strong breeze coming from the south. The back of the boat got stuck on a log, and the boat nearly capsized before we managed to get it righted, as the waves were quite high. The chief on board got so scared from the boat's motion, which caused several loose items to fall onto the deck, that he ran off and hid. After we landed, he grabbed his gun and told us he wanted to go back, saying everything was clear for us to continue and that we wouldn’t see any more Tetons. We repeated what had been said before and advised him to keep his men away. We gave him a blanket, a knife, and some tobacco, smoked a pipe, and he set off. We also set sail and stopped at a sandbar to camp for the night; it was a very cold evening, and we were all on guard.
[Clark, October 1, 1804]
1st of October Monday 1804 The wind blew hard from the S. E. all last night, Set out early passed a large Island in the middle of the river opposit this Island the Ricaras lived in 2 Villages on the S W. Side, about 2 Miles above the upper point of the Island the Chyenne River Coms in on the L. S. and is about 400 yards wide dischargeing but little water for a R. of its Size, the Current jentle, and navagable, to the Black mountains we haule the Boat over a Sand bar, River wide & Shoal, pass'd a Creek at 5 mils we Call Sentinal Creek, a Small one above, but little timber about this river, the hills not So high as usial, the upper Creek I call lookout Creek, Camped on a Sand bar, opposit a Tradeing house, where a Mr. Valles & 2 men had Some fiew goods to trade with the Sioux, a boy came to us, This Mr. Vallie informed us he wintered last winter 300 Legus up the Chyemne River under the Black mountains, he Sais the River is rapid and bad to navagate, it forks 100 Leagus up the N. fork enters the Black mountain 40 Leagues above the forks the Countrey like that on the Missouri less timber more Cedar, the Coat Nur or Black m. is high and Some parts retain Snow all Summer, Covered with timber principally pine, Great number of goats and a kind of anamal with verry large horns about the Size of a Small Elk, White Bear no bever on the chien great numbers in the mountains, The Chyenne Nation has about 300 Lodges hunt the Buffalow, Steel horses from the Spanish Settlements, which they doe in 1 month—the Chanal of this River is Corse gravel, Those mountains is inhabited also by the white booted Turkeys worthy of remark that the Grouse or Prarie hen is Booted, the Toes of their feet So constructed as to walk on the Snow, and the Tail Short with 2 long Stiff feathers in the middle.
1st of October, Monday 1804 The wind blew hard from the southeast all last night. We set out early and passed a large island in the middle of the river. Opposite this island, the Ricaras lived in two villages on the southwest side. About two miles above the upper point of the island, the Cheyenne River comes in on the left side and is about 400 yards wide, discharging very little water for a river its size. The current is gentle and navigable to the Black Mountains. We hauled the boat over a sandbar; the river is wide and shallow. We passed a creek at five miles, which we call Sentinel Creek, a small one above, but there's little timber around this river. The hills are not as high as usual, and I call the upper creek Lookout Creek. We camped on a sandbar opposite a trading house where Mr. Valles and two men had a few goods to trade with the Sioux. A boy came to us. Mr. Valles informed us he wintered 300 leagues up the Cheyenne River under the Black Mountains. He says the river is rapid and difficult to navigate. It forks 100 leagues up; the north fork enters the Black Mountains 40 leagues above the forks. The country is like that along the Missouri, with less timber but more cedar. The Black Mountains are high, and some parts hold snow all summer; they are covered with timber, mainly pine. There are a great number of goats and a kind of animal with very large horns, about the size of a small elk. There are white bears, but no beavers in the Cheyenne River—many in the mountains. The Cheyenne Nation has about 300 lodges and hunts buffalo, stealing horses from the Spanish settlements, which they do in a month. The channel of this river is coarse gravel. Those mountains are also inhabited by a type of turkey with white boots. It's noteworthy that the grouse or prairie hen is also booted, with their toes designed to walk on snow, and their tails are short with two long, stiff feathers in the middle.
Sand bars are So noumerous, that it is impossible to discribe them, & think it unnecessary to mention them.
Sandbars are so numerous that it's impossible to describe them, and I think it's unnecessary to mention them.
[Clark, October 1, 1804]
1st of October Monday 1804 The wind blew hard all last night from the S. E. verry Cold Set out early the wind Still hard passed a large Island in the middle of the river (1) opsd. the lower point of this Island the Ricrerees formerly lived in a large Town on the L. S. above the head of the Island about 2 miles we passed the (2) River) L. S. this river Comes in from the S W. and is about 400 yards wide, the Current appears gentle, throwing out but little Sands, and appears to throw out but little water the heads of this River is Indians live Some distance up this river, the presise distance I cant learn, above the mouth of this river the Sand bars are thick and the water Shoal the river Still verry wide and falling a little we are obliged to haul the boat over a Sand bar, after makeing Several attempts to pass. the wind So hard we Came too & Stayed 3 hours after it Slackened a little we proceeded on round a bend, the wind in the after part of the Day a head—(2) passed a Creek on the L. S. which we Call the Sentinal, this part of the river has but little timber, the hills not so high. the Sand bars now noumerous, & river more than one mile wide including the Sand bars. (2) pass a Small Creek above the latter which we Call lookout C-. Continued on with the wind imediately a head, and Came too on a large Sand bar in the middle of the river, we Saw a man opposit to our Camp on the L. S. which we discovd. to be a Frenchman, a little of the willows we observed a house, we Call to them to come over, a boy Came in a Canoo & informed that 2 french men were at the house with good to trade with the Seauex which he expected down from the rickerries everry day, Severl large parties of Seauex Set out from the rics for this place to trade with those men—This Mr. Jon Vallie informs us that he wintered last winter 300 Leagues up the Chien River under the Black mountains, he informs that this river is verry rapid and dificiult even for Canoos to assend and when riseing the Swels is verry high, one hundred Leagues up it forks one fork Comes from the S. the other at 40 Leagues above the forks enters the black Mountain. The Countrey from the Missourie to the black mountain is much like the Countrey on the Missourie, less timber & a greatr perpotion of Ceder. The black Mountains he Says is verry high, and Some parts of it has Snow on it in the Summer great quantities of Pine Grow on the mountains, a great noise is heard frequently on those mountains-, on the mountains great numbers of goat, and a kind of Anamale with large Circuler horns, This animale is nearly the Size of an Argalia Small Elk. White bear is also plenty—The Chien Inds. inhabit this river principally, and Steel horses from the Spanish Settlements This excurtion they make in one month the bottoms & Sides of R Chien is Corse gravel. This frenchman gives an account of a white booted turkey an inhabitant of the Cout Noie-
1st of October, Monday 1804 The wind blew hard all last night from the S.E. It was very cold. We set out early, and the wind was still strong. We passed a large island in the middle of the river (1) opposite the lower point of this island, where the Ricrerees used to live in a large town on the left side, about 2 miles above the head of the island. We passed the (2) river on the left side, which comes in from the southwest and is about 400 yards wide. The current seemed gentle, carrying only a little sand and not much water. The Indians live some distance up this river, but I can't learn the exact distance. Above the mouth of this river, the sandbars are thick, and the water is shallow. The river still seems very wide and falling a little, we had to haul the boat over a sandbar after trying to pass it several times. The wind was so strong that we stopped and stayed for 3 hours until it slackened a bit. We then proceeded around a bend, but the wind was in our face again later in the day. (2) We passed a creek on the left side that we call the Sentinel. This part of the river has very little timber, and the hills are not as high. The sandbars are now numerous, and the river is more than a mile wide, including the sandbars. (2) We passed a small creek above that we call Lookout Creek. We continued on with the wind immediately ahead and stopped on a large sandbar in the middle of the river. We saw a man across from our camp on the left side, who we discovered was a Frenchman. A bit beyond the willows, we noticed a house. We called out to them to come over, and a boy came in a canoe to inform us that 2 Frenchmen were at the house with goods to trade with the Sioux, who were expected to come down from the Ricreries any day now. Several large parties of Sioux had set out from the Ricreries to trade with those men. This Mr. Jon Vallie told us he wintered 300 leagues up the Chien River near the Black Mountains. He said that this river is very rapid and difficult to ascend even by canoe, and during floods, the swells are very high. One hundred leagues up, the river forks; one fork comes from the south, and the other enters the Black Mountain 40 leagues above the forks. The land from the Missouri to the Black Mountain resembles the land around the Missouri, with less timber and a greater proportion of cedar. The Black Mountains, he says, are very high, and some parts have snow on them in the summer. Great quantities of pine grow on the mountains, and there is often a loud noise heard on those slopes. The mountains are home to a large number of goats and a kind of animal with large circular horns, which is nearly the size of a small elk. White bears are also common. The Chien Indians primarily inhabit this river and steal horses from the Spanish settlements. This excursion takes them a month, and the bottoms and sides of the Chien River are made up of coarse gravel. This Frenchman also mentioned a white-footed turkey that is found in the Cout Noie.
[Clark, October 1, 1804]
1st of October Monday 1804 at the Mouth of River Chien or Dog R We proceeded now from the mouth of this river 11 miles and Camped on a Sand bar in the river opposit to a Tradeing house verry windy & Cold- 11 miles above the Chien R
1st of October, Monday, 1804, at the mouth of the River Chien (or Dog River). We continued from the mouth of this river for 11 miles and set up camp on a sandbar in the river, opposite a trading house. It was very windy and cold—11 miles above the Chien River.
[Clark, October 1, 1804]
The red Berry is Called by the Rees Nar-nis-
The red berry is called by the Rees Nar-nis-
The Ricares
Names of the nations who come to the Ricares to trafick and bring Horses & robes
Names of the countries that come to the Ricares to trade and bring horses and robes
1. * Kun-na-nar-wesh Gens de vash
Blue beeds
2. ° Noo-tar-wau
Hill Climbers
3. * Au ner-hoo
the people who pen Buffalow to Catch them
4. * To-che-wah-Coo
Fox Indians
5. * To-pah-cass
White hair's
6. * Cat-tar kah
Paducar
7. * Kie-wah
Tideing Indians
8. * Too war Sar
Skin pricks
9. Shar ha (Chien)
the village on the other Side
10. We hee Shaw (Chien)
The villages on this Side
1. * Kun-na-nar-wesh Gens de vash
Blue beads
2. ° Noo-tar-wau
Hill Climbers
3. * Au ner-hoo
the people who pen Buffalo to catch them
4. * To-che-wah-Coo
Fox Indians
5. * To-pah-cass
White hairs
6. * Cat-tar kah
Paducah
7. * Kie-wah
Tiding Indians
8. * Too war Sar
Skin pricks
9. Shar ha (Chien)
the village on the other side
10. We hee Shaw (Chien)
The villages on this side Those nation all live on the praries from S W. by S. to West of the Ricaries, all Speek different languages and are numerous all follow the Buffalow and winter in the mountains. The Mandans Call a red berry common to the upper part of the Missouri As-say the engages call the Same berry grease de Buff—grows in great abundance a makes a Delightfull Tart
Those nations all live on the prairies from southwest by south to west of the Ricaries. They all speak different languages and are numerous, all following the buffalo and spending winter in the mountains. The Mandans call a red berry that's common in the upper part of the Missouri "As-say." The Engages call the same berry "grease de Buff." It grows in great abundance and makes a delightful tart.
[Clark, October 2, 1804]
2nd of October Tuesday 1804, Mr. Vallie Came on board, Lat. 44° 19' 36 N. we observed Some Indians on a hill on the S. S. one Came to the river & fired off his gun and asked us to come he wish us to go to his Camp near at hand we refused, passed a large Island on the S. S., here we expected the Tetons would attempt to Stop us, and prepared for action, &c. opposit this Island on the L. S. a Small Creek comes in, we call this Caution Island, Camped on a Sand bar 1/2 mile from the main Shore the wind hard from the N W. Cold, the current of the river less rapid, & retains less Sediment than below.
2nd of October, Tuesday, 1804. Mr. Vallie arrived on board at Latitude 44° 19' 36" N. We noticed some Indians on a hill across the river. One of them came over, fired his gun, and invited us to his camp nearby, but we declined. We passed a large island on the south side, where we thought the Tetons might try to stop us, so we got ready for action, etc. Opposite this island on the left side, a small creek flows in, which we named Caution Island. We camped on a sandbar half a mile from the main shore. The wind was strong from the northwest, and it was cold. The current of the river was less rapid and carried less sediment than downstream.
[Clark, October 2, 1804]
2nd of Octr. 2nd of October Tuesday 1804 a Violent wind all night from the S. E. Slackened a little and we proceeded on. Mr. Jon Vallee Came on board and proceeded on 2 miles with us, a verry Cold morning Some black clouds flying took a meridian altitude & made the Lattitude 44° 19' 36" North this was taken at the upper part of the gouge of the Lookout bend, the Sentinal heard a Shot over the hills to the L. S. dureing the time we were Dineing on a large Sand bar. the after part of this day is pleasent, at 2 oClock opposit a wood on the L. S. we observed some Indians on a hill on the S. S. one Came down to the river opposit to us and fired off his gun, & beckind. to us to Come too, we payed no attention to him he followed on Some distance, we Spoke a few words to him, he wished us to go a Shore and to his Camp which was over the hill and Consisted of 20 Lodges, we excused our Selves advised him to go and here our talk of Mr. Durion he enquired for traders we informed him one was in the next bend below & parted, he returned—& we proceeded on (1) passed a large Island, the S. S. here we expected the Tetons would attempt to Stop us and under that Hear we prepared our Selves for action which we expected every moment. opsd. this Island on the L. S. a Small Creek Comes in, This Island we call Isd. of Caution we took in Some wood on a favourable Situation where we Could defend our men on Shore & (2) Camped on a Sand bar 1/2 a mile from the main Shore. the wind changed to the N. W. & rose verry high and Cold which Continud. The Current of the Missourie is less rapid & contains much less Sediment of the Same Colour.
2nd of October, Tuesday, 1804: A violent wind blew all night from the southeast but eased up a bit, allowing us to move on. Mr. Jon Vallee came aboard and traveled with us for 2 miles. It was a very cold morning, and some dark clouds were drifting by. We took a meridian altitude and determined the latitude to be 44° 19' 36" North, measured at the upper part of the gouge of the Lookout bend. The Sentinel heard a shot from across the hills on the left side while we were dining on a large sandbar. The latter part of the day was pleasant. At 2 o'clock, opposite some woods on the left side, we noticed some Indians on a hill on the south side. One of them came down to the river opposite us and fired his gun, signaling us to come over. We ignored him, and he followed us for some distance. We exchanged a few words; he invited us to come ashore to his camp, which was just over the hill and had 20 lodges. We declined and suggested he go back and listen to our discussion about Mr. Durion. He asked about traders, and we told him one was in the next bend below, and we parted ways. He returned, and we continued on. We passed a large island on the south side, where we expected the Tetons would try to stop us, so we prepared for action at any moment. Opposite this island, a small creek flows in. We named this island Island of Caution. We gathered some wood in a defensible spot where we could protect our men on shore and set up camp on a sandbar half a mile from the main shore. The wind shifted to the northwest and picked up in intensity, becoming very cold, which continued throughout the evening. The current of the Missouri was less rapid and carried much less sediment of the same color.
[Clark, October 2, 1804]
2nd of October Tuesday 1804 Proceeded on as mentioned in journal No. 2 twelve miles Camped above a large Island on a Sand bar, verry windy and Cold the after part of this day, the mid day verry worm, The Lattitude as taken to day is 44° 19' 36"—observe great Caution this day expecting the Seaux intentions Some what hostile towards our progression, The river not So rapid as below the Chien, its width nearly the Same 12 miles
2nd of October, Tuesday, 1804. Continued on as noted in journal No. 2, covering twelve miles. Camped above a large island on a sandbar. It was very windy and cold for the latter part of the day, though it was quite warm around noon. The latitude recorded today is 44° 19' 36". Exercise great caution today, as we expect the Saux’s intentions to be somewhat hostile towards our progress. The river is not as fast-moving as below the Chien, and its width is nearly the same—12 miles.
[Clark, October 3, 1804]
3rd of October Wednesday 1804 The N W. wind blew verry hard all night with Some rain, we Set out early, at 12 examoned our Stores & goods, Several bags Cut by the mice and Corn Scattered, Some of our Cloth also cut by them also papers &c. &c. at 1 oClock an Indian Came to the Bank S. S, with a turkey on his back 4 other soon joined him Some rain, Saw Brant & white guts flying Southerly
3rd of October, Wednesday, 1804 The northwest wind blew really hard all night with some rain. We set out early, and at noon examined our supplies and goods. Several bags were cut by mice, and corn was scattered. Some of our cloth was also damaged by them, along with papers, etc. At 1 o'clock, an Indian came to the south bank with a turkey on his back, and four others soon joined him. It rained some more, and we saw a Brant and some white guts flying south.
[Clark, October 3, 1804]
3rd of October Wednesday 1804 wind blew hard all night from the N W. Some rain and verry Cold. we Set out at 7 oClock & proceeded on
3rd of October Wednesday 1804 wind blew hard all night from the N W. Some rain and very cold. We set out at 7 o'clock & proceeded on
[Clark, October 3, 1804]
3rd of October Wednesday 1804 The N. W. wind blew verry hard all night with Some rain a Cold morning, we Set out at 7 oClock and proceeded on at 12 oClock landed on a Bare L. S. examined the Perogus & factle of the boat to see if the mice had done any damage, Several bags Cut by them Corn Scattered &. Some of our Clothes also Spoiled by them, and papers &c. &. at 1 oClock an Indian Came to the bank S. S. with a turkey on his back, four others Soon joined him, we attempted Several Chanels and Could not find water to assend, landed on a Sand bar & Concluded to Stay all night, & Send out and hunt a Chanell, Some rain this after noon—Saw Brant & white gulls flying Southerly in large flocks-
3rd of October, Wednesday 1804 The northwest wind blew really hard all night, bringing some rain. It was a cold morning. We set out at 7 o'clock and made progress until 12 o'clock when we landed on a bare sandbar. We checked the perogus and gear of the boat to see if the mice had caused any damage. Several bags were cut by them, corn was scattered, and some of our clothes and papers were spoiled as well. At 1 o'clock, an Indian came to the bank on the south side with a turkey on his back. Four others soon joined him. We tried several channels but couldn’t find any water to ascend. We landed on a sandbar and decided to stay the night, sending out to hunt for a channel. There was some rain this afternoon. We saw brant and white gulls flying south in large flocks.
[Clark, October 4, 1804]
4th of October Thursday—the Wind blew all night from the N W. Some rain we were obliged to drop down 3 miles to get a Channel Sufficient Deep to pass Several Indians on the bank, Call'd to us frequently to Land, one gave 3 yels & Sciped a Ball before us, we payed no attention to them, while at Brackfast one Swam across to us, beged for Powder, we gave him a Small piece of Tobacco & put him over on a Sand bar, passed a large Island in the middle of the river Good hope I. Passed a small Creek L. S. passed a creek L S Camped on a Sand bar at the upper point of an Island on which is the remains of an old ricara Village fortified Called La hoo It was circular, this Village appears to have been deserted about 5 or 6 years, 17 houses yet remain, the Island Contains but little timber, the evening verry Cold and wood Scerce, make use of Drift wood
October 4th, Thursday—the wind blew all night from the northwest. We had to drop down 3 miles to find a channel deep enough to pass through. Several Indians on the bank called out to us frequently to land; one yelled three times and fired a shot in front of us, but we ignored them. While we were having breakfast, one swam across to us and begged for gunpowder. We gave him a small piece of tobacco and directed him to a sandbar. We passed a large island in the middle of the river, which we called Good Hope. We passed a small creek on the left side and camped on a sandbar at the upper point of an island that has the remains of an old Ricara village, fortified and called La Hoo. It was circular and seems to have been deserted for about 5 or 6 years; 17 houses still remain. The island has very little timber, and the evening was very cold with scarce wood, so we made use of driftwood.
[Clark, October 4, 1804]
4th of October Thursday 1804 the wind blew all night from the NW. Some rain, we were obliged to Drop down 3 miles to get the Chanel Suft. deep to pass up, Several Indians on the Shore viewing of us Called to us to land one of them gave 3 yels & Sciped a ball before us, we payed no attention to him, proceeded on and Came too on the L. S. to brackft one of those Indians Swam across to us beged for Powder, we gave him a piece of Tobacco & Set him over on a Sand bar, and Set out, the wind hard a head (1) passed a Island in the middle of the river about 3 miles in length, we call Goodhope Island, (2) at 4 miles passed a (2) Creek on the L. S. about 12 yards wide Capt. Lewis and 3 men walked on Shore & crossed over to an (3) Island Situated on the S. S. of the Current & near the Center of the river this Isld. is about 11/2 miles long & nearly 1/2 as wide, in the Center of this Island was an old Village of the rickeries Called La ho catt it was Circular and walled Containing 17 lodges and it appears to have been deserted about five years, the Island Contains but little timber. we Camped on the Sand bar makeing from this Island, the day verry Cool.
On October 4th, Thursday, 1804, the wind blew all night from the northwest. There was some rain, and we had to move down 3 miles to get to the channel, which was deep enough to go through. Several Indians on the shore watching us called out for us to land. One of them yelled three times and shot a ball in front of us, but we ignored him, continued on, and stopped on the left side to have breakfast. One of those Indians swam across to us begging for gunpowder. Instead, we gave him a piece of tobacco and sent him back to a sandbar, then set out again. The wind was blowing strongly against us (1). We passed an island in the middle of the river about 3 miles long, which we named Goodhope Island (2). Four miles later, we passed a creek on the left side that was about 12 yards wide. Captain Lewis and three men walked on shore and crossed over to an island located on the south side of the current, near the center of the river. This island is about 1.5 miles long and nearly half a mile wide. In the center of this island was an old village of the Rickery tribe called La Ho Catt. It was circular and walled, containing 17 lodges, and it seemed to have been deserted for about five years. The island has very little timber. We camped on the sandbar made by this island; the day was very cool.
[Clark, October 5, 1804]
5th of October Friday 1804 Frost this morning, Set out early passed a Small Creek on the L. S. saw 3 Tetons on the S. S. they beged Some Tobacco, we proceed on passed a Creek on the S. S. I Saw a white brant in a gangue on the Sand bar Saw a large herd of Cabra or antelopes Swiming the River, we Killed four of them passed a Small Island on the L. S. a large Creek on the L. S. at the head of the Island White Brant Creek, I walked on the Island which is covered with wild rye, I Killed a Buck & a Small wolf this evening, Clear pleasant evening, Camped on a mud bar S. S. refreshd the men with whiskey.
5th of October, Friday, 1804. It was frosty this morning. We set out early and passed a small creek on the left side. I saw three Tetons on the right side; they asked for some tobacco. We continued on and passed another creek on the right side. I spotted a white brant in a group on the sandbar. We saw a large herd of cabra or antelopes swimming across the river, and we shot four of them. We passed a small island on the left side and a large creek at the head of the island called White Brant Creek. I walked on the island, which is covered with wild rye. I shot a buck and a small wolf this evening. It was a clear, pleasant evening. We camped on a mud bar on the right side and treated the men to whiskey.
[Clark, October 5, 1804]
5th of October Friday 1804 Frost this morning, we Set out early and proceeded on (1) passed a Small Creek on the L. S. at 7 oClock heard Some yels proceeded on Saw 3 Indians of the Teton band, they called to us to Come on Shore, beged Some Tobacco, we answd. them as usial and proceeded on, passed (2) a Creek on the S. S. at 3 mes. abov the mouth we Saw one white Brant in a gang of about 30, the others all as dark as usial, a Discription of this kind of Gees or Brant Shall be given here after Saw a Gang of Goats Swiming across the river out of which we killed four they were not fatt. in the evening passed a Small (3) Island Situated Close to the L. Side, at the head of this Isd. a large Creek coms in on the L. S. Saw white or Brants, we Call this Creek white Brant Creek—I walked on the Isd. found it Covered with wild rye, I Shot a Buck, Saw a large gang of Goat on the hills opposit, one Buck killed, also a Prarie wolf this evening, the high Land not So high as below, river about the Same width, the Sand bars as noumerous, the earth Black and many of the Bluffs have the appearance of being on fire, we Came too and Camped on a mud bar makeing from the L. S. The evening is Calm and pleasant, refreshed the men with a glass of whiskey-
5th of October, Friday, 1804 It was frosty this morning. We set out early and moved on. We passed a small creek on the left side. At 7 o'clock, we heard some yells and saw three Indians from the Teton band. They called for us to come ashore and begged for some tobacco. We responded as usual and continued on. We passed a creek on the south side, and 3 miles above its mouth, we saw one white brant among a group of about 30; the others were all dark, as usual. A description of this type of goose or brant will be provided later. We also saw a group of goats swimming across the river, from which we killed four, but they were not fat. In the evening, we passed a small island located close to the left side. At the head of this island, a large creek comes in on the left side. We saw white brants, and we named this creek White Brant Creek. I walked around the island and found it covered with wild rye. I shot a buck and saw a large group of goats on the opposite hills; we killed one buck and also a prairie wolf this evening. The high land wasn't as elevated as before, and the river remained about the same width, with numerous sandbars. The earth was black, and many of the bluffs appeared to have been on fire. We stopped and camped on a mud bar extending from the left side. The evening is calm and pleasant, and I refreshed the men with a glass of whiskey.
[Clark, October 6, 1804]
6th of October Satturday 1804 Cold Wind from the N. Saw many large round Stones near the middle of the River passed an old Ricara village of 80 Lodges Picketed in those lodges in nearly an octagon form, 20 to 60 feet Diameter Specious Covered with earth and as Close as they Can Stand, a number of Skin Canoes in the huts, we found Squashes of 3 different Kinds growing in the Village Shields Killed an Elk Close by- The Magpy is common here, we Camped off the mouth of Otter Creek on the S. S. this Creek is 22 yds. wide & heads near the R. Jacque,—contains much water.
6th of October, Saturday, 1804. There’s a cold wind coming from the north. We saw many large round stones in the middle of the river and passed by an old Ricara village with 80 lodges, arranged in nearly an octagon shape, each measuring 20 to 60 feet in diameter. The lodges are spacious, covered with earth, and packed closely together. There are several skin canoes in the huts, and we found squashes of three different kinds growing in the village. I killed an elk nearby. The magpie is common here. We set up camp at the mouth of Otter Creek on the south side. This creek is 22 yards wide and its source is near the River Jacque—it has a lot of water.
[Clark, October 6, 1804]
6th October Satturday 1804 a cool morning wind from the North Set out early passed a willow Island (1) Situated near the S. Shore at the upper point of Som timber on the S. S. many large round Stones near the middle of the river, those Stones appear to have been washed from the hills (2) passed a village of about 80 neet Lodges covered with earth and picketed around, those loges are Spicious of an Octagon form as close together as they can possibly be placed and appear to have been inhabited last Spring, from the Canoes of Skins Mats buckets & found in the lodges, we are of appinion they were the recrereis we found Squashes of 3 Different Kinds growing in the Village, one of our men killed an Elk Close by this Village, I saw 2 wolves in persute of another which appeared to be wounded and nearly tired, we proceeded on found the river Shole we made Severl. attempts to find the main Channel between the Sand bars, and was obliged at length to Drag the boat over to Save a league which we must return to get into the deepest Channel, we have been obgd to hunt a Chanl. for Some time past the river being devided in many places in a great number of Chanels, Saw Gees, Swan, Brants, & Ducks of Different kinds on the Sand bars to day, Capt Lewis walked on Shore Saw great numbers of Prarie hens, I observe but fiew Gulls or Pleaver in this part of the river, The Corvos or Magpye is verry Common in this quarter
6th October, Saturday 1804: It was a cool morning with a wind coming from the North. We set out early and passed a willow island near the south shore at the upper point of some timber on the south side. There were many large round stones in the middle of the river; these stones seemed to have been washed down from the hills. We passed a village of about 80 neat lodges covered with earth and surrounded by pickets. These lodges were suspiciously in an octagon shape, packed closely together, and appeared to have been inhabited last spring. From the canoe skins, mats, and buckets we found in the lodges, we think they were the residences of the people we encountered. We found squash of three different kinds growing in the village. One of our men killed an elk near this village, and I saw two wolves pursuing another that seemed to be wounded and nearly exhausted. We continued on and found the river was shallow; we made several attempts to locate the main channel between the sandbars and eventually had to drag the boat over to save a league, which we had to return to reach the deepest channel. We have been forced to search for a channel for some time now, as the river is divided in many places into a great number of channels. Today we saw geese, swans, brants, and various kinds of ducks on the sandbars. Captain Lewis walked on shore and saw a great number of prairie hens. I noticed few gulls or plovers in this part of the river, but the corvids, or magpies, are very common in this area.
We Camped on a large Sand bar off the mouth of Otter Creek on the S. S. this Creek is about 22 yards wide at the mouth and contains a greater perpotion of water than Common for Creeks of its Sise
We camped on a large sandbar at the mouth of Otter Creek on the S.S. This creek is about 22 yards wide at the mouth and has more water than usual for creeks of its size.
[Clark, October 7, 1804]
7th of October Sunday 1804 frost last night, passed a River 90 yds. wide the Ricaras Call Sur-war-kar-ne all the water of this river runs in a chanel of 20 yards, the Current appears jentle, I walked up this River a mile, Saw the tracks of white bear, verry large, also a old Ricara village partly burnt, fortified about 60 Lodges built in the Same form of those passed yesterday, many Canoes & Baskets about the huts—about 10 oClock we Saw 2 Indians on the S. S. they asked for Something to eat & told us they were Tetons of the band we left below on ther way to the Ricaras we gave them meat & wind hard from the South, passed a large open Island covered with grass and wild rye, I walked on the Isd & 4 men they Killed a Braroe & a Black tale Doe with a black breast, the largest Deer I ever saw, the great numbers of Grous on it, we call it Grous Island, Camped opposit the Island near the S. Side.
October 7th, Sunday, 1804. There was frost last night. We crossed a river that is 90 yards wide. The Ricaras call it Sur-war-kar-ne, and all the water from this river flows in a channel that’s 20 yards wide. The current seems gentle. I walked up the river for a mile and saw the tracks of a very large white bear, as well as an old Ricara village that was partly burned, which was fortified with about 60 lodges built in the same style as those we passed yesterday. There were many canoes and baskets around the huts. Around 10 o'clock, we saw 2 Indians on the south side. They asked for something to eat and told us they were Tetons from the band we left below, on their way to join the Ricaras. We gave them some meat and kept going with the wind coming hard from the south. We passed a large open island covered with grass and wild rye. I walked on the island with 4 men; they killed a rare brown deer and a black-tailed doe with a black breast, the largest deer I’ve ever seen, with a great number of grouse on it. We called it Grouse Island and camped opposite the island near the south side.
[Clark, October 7, 1804]
7th of October Sunday 1804 a Cloudy morning, Some little rain frost last night, we Set out early proceeded on 2 miles to the mouth of a (1) river on the L. S. and brackfast this river whin full is 90 yards wide the water is at this time Confined within 20 yards, the Current appears jentle, this river throws out but little Sand at the mouth of this river we Saw the Tracks of White bear which was verry large, I walked up this river a mile- below the (2) mouth of this river, is the remains of a Rickorrie Village or Wintering Camp fortified in a circular form of a bout 60 Lodges, built in the Same form of those passed yesterday This Camp appears to have been inhabited last winter, many of their willow & Straw mats, Baskets & Buffalow Skin Canoes remain intire within the Camp, the Ricares Call this river Sur-war-kar-na or Park from this river we proceeded on under a gentle Breeze from the S. W. at 10 oClock we Saw 2 Indians, on the S. S. they asked for Something to eate, & informed us they were part of the Beiffs De Medisons Lodge on their way to the Rickerreis, passed (3) a willow Island in a bind to the S. S. (4) at 5 miles passd. a willow Island on the S. S.—wind hard from the South in the evening I walked on an (5) Island nearly the middle of the river Called Grous Island, one of the men killed a Shee Brarrow, another man killed a Black tail Deer, the largest Doe I ever Saw (Black under her breast) this Island is nearly 11/4 ms. Squar no timbr high and Covered with grass wild rye and Contains Great numbers of Grouse, we proceeded on a Short distance above the Island and Camped on the S. S. a fine evening.
October 7th, Sunday 1804 - It was a cloudy morning with some light rain and frost from last night. We set out early and traveled 2 miles to the mouth of a river on the left side. We had breakfast there. When this river is full, it's 90 yards wide, but right now the water is confined to about 20 yards. The current seems gentle, and there’s not much sand being washed out at the mouth. We noticed large tracks of a white bear. I walked up the river a mile, and just below the mouth, I found the remains of a Rickerie village or winter camp, which was fortified in a circular shape with about 60 lodges built like those we passed yesterday. This camp appears to have been inhabited last winter; many of their willow and straw mats, baskets, and intact buffalo skin canoes are still inside. The Ricares call this river Sur-war-kar-na or Park. From this river, we continued on with a gentle southwest breeze. At 10 o'clock, we saw two Indians on the south side. They asked for something to eat and told us they were part of Beiffs De Medisons Lodge on their way to the Rickeries. We passed a willow island in a bend to the south. After 5 miles, we went past another willow island on the south side. The wind picked up from the south in the evening, and I walked onto an island nearly in the middle of the river called Grouse Island. One of the men shot a female bison, and another killed a black-tailed deer, the largest doe I’ve ever seen (black under her breast). This island is about 1.25 miles square, not very high, and covered with wild rye grass, hosting a large number of grouse. We moved a short distance above the island and set up camp on the south side for a pleasant evening.
[Clark, October 8, 1804]
8th of October Monday 1804 a cool Morning wind from the N. W. passed the mouth of a Small Creek on the L. S. about 21/2 Miles above the Isd. Passed the Mouth of a River on the L. S. called by the Ricaries We-tar-hoo. this river is 120 yards wide, the water Confined within 20 yards, throws out mud with little Sand, great quanties of red Berries, resembling Currents near the mouth of this river Latd. 45° 39' 5 N. this river heads in the 1s Black Mountain, 2 Miles higher up passed a Small River on the L. S. Called Maropa 25 yards wide Chocked up with mud—our hunters discovered a Ricara village on an Island a fiew miles above we passed the 1s Ricara Village about the center of the Island, in presence of Great numbers of Spectators and Camped above the Island on the L. S. at the foot of Some high land. (Mr. Gravotine a French man joined us as an interpeter) The Island on which is Ricara Village is Situated, is about 3 miles long Seperated from the Main L. Side by a Narrow Deep Channel, those Indians Cultivate on the Island Corn Beens Simmins, Tobacco &c &c. after Landing Capt. Lewis with Mr. Gravelin and 3 men went to the Village, I formd a Camp on Shore with the Perogue crew & guard, with the Boat at Anchor, Capt Lewis returned late, a french man and a Spaniard accompanied him
8th of October, Monday, 1804. It was a cool morning with a northwestern wind as we passed the mouth of a small creek on the left side, about 2.5 miles above the island. We passed the mouth of a river on the left side called We-tar-hoo by the Ricara tribe. This river is 120 yards wide, with the water confined within 20 yards, and it deposits mud with little sand and many red berries that look like currants near its mouth. The latitude here is 45° 39' 5" N. This river originates from the Black Mountain, 2 miles upstream. We passed a small river on the left side called Maropa, which is 25 yards wide and clogged with mud. Our hunters discovered a Ricara village on an island a few miles upstream. We passed the Ricara village located near the center of the island, in front of a large crowd of spectators, and camped above the island on the left side at the foot of some high land. Mr. Gravotine, a Frenchman, joined us as an interpreter. The island where the Ricara village is situated is about 3 miles long and separated from the main left side by a narrow, deep channel. These Indians cultivate corn, beans, simmons, tobacco, etc. After landing, Captain Lewis, along with Mr. Gravelin and three men, went to the village while I set up a camp onshore with the crew and guards from the perogue, and the boat was anchored. Captain Lewis returned late, accompanied by a Frenchman and a Spaniard.
[Clark, October 8, 1804]
8th of October Monday 1804 a Cool morning Set out early the wind from the N. W. proceeded on passed the mouth of a Small Creek on the L. S. about 21/2 miles above Grouse Island, (3) passed a willow Island which Divides the Current equilly. (2) passed the mouth of a River called by the ricares We tar hoo on the L. S. this river is 120 yards wide, the water of which at this time is Confined within 20 yards, dischargeing but a Small quantity, throwing out mud with Small propotion of Sand, great quantities of the red Berries, ressembling Currents, are on the river in every bend—77° 33' 0" Lattitude from the Obsevation of to day at the mouth of this river is 45° 39' 5"-North—proceeded on passed a (3) Small river of 25 yards wide Called (4) or Beaver Dam R this river is intirely Chocked up with mud, with a Streem of 1 Inch Diamiter passing through, discharging no Sand, at 1 (5) mile passed the lower pint of an Island close on the L. S. 2 of our men discovered the reckerrei village, about the Center of the Island on the L. Side on the main Shore. this Island is about 3 miles long, Seperated from the L. S. by a Channel of about 60 yards wide verry Deep, The Isld. is covered with fields, where those people raise their Corn Tobacco Beens &c. &c. Great numbers of those People came on the Island to See us pass, we passed above the head of the Island & Capt. Lewis with 2 interpeters & 2 men went to the Village I formed a Camp of the french & the guard on Shore, with one Sentinal on board of the boat at anchor, a pleasent evening all things arranged both for Peace or War, This Village (6) is Situated about the Center of a large Island near the L. Side & near the foot of Some high bald uneaven hills, Several french men Came up with Capt Lewis in a Perogue, one of which is a Mr. Gravellin a man well versed in the language of this nation and gave us Some information relitive to the Countrey naton &c
October 8th, Monday, 1804 - It was a cool morning as we set out early with the wind coming from the northwest. We continued on and passed the mouth of a small creek on the left side about 2.5 miles above Grouse Island. We also passed a willow island that evenly divides the current. Then we passed the mouth of a river called We tar hoo by the Ricares on the left side. This river is 120 yards wide, but at this time, the water is confined within 20 yards, discharging only a small amount and carrying out mud with a small proportion of sand. There are great quantities of red berries resembling currants on the river at every bend—77° 33' 0" Latitude from today’s observation at the mouth of this river, the location is 45° 39' 5" North. We proceeded and passed a small river, 25 yards wide, called Beaver Dam. This river is completely blocked with mud, with a stream of 1-inch diameter flowing through and discharging no sand. After 1 mile, we passed the lower point of an island close to the left side. Two of our men discovered the Reckerrei village about the center of the island on the left side of the main shore. This island is about 3 miles long, separated from the left side by a very deep channel about 60 yards wide. The island is covered with fields where these people grow corn, tobacco, beans, and more. Many of the locals came to the island to see us pass. We moved above the head of the island, and Captain Lewis, along with two interpreters and two men, went to the village while I set up camp for the French and the guard on shore, with one sentinel on board the anchored boat. It was a pleasant evening, everything arranged for either peace or war. This village is located near the center of a large island close to the left side and near the foot of some high, bald, uneven hills. Several Frenchmen joined Captain Lewis in a pirogue, one of whom is Mr. Gravellin, a man well-versed in the language of this nation, who provided us with some information regarding the country and the people.
[Clark, October 8, 1804] Orders October the 8th 1804 Robert Frazer being regularly inlisted and haveing become on of the Corps of Vollenteers for North Western Discovery, he is therefore to be viewed & respected accordingly; and will be anexed to Sergeant Gass's mess.
[Clark, October 8, 1804] Orders October 8, 1804 Robert Frazer has officially enlisted and has become one of the Corps of Volunteers for Northwestern Discovery. He should be acknowledged and treated accordingly, and will be added to Sergeant Gass's mess.
Win Clark Cpt &. Meriwether Lewis River Marapa Capt. 1st U.S. Regt. Infty
Win Clark Cpt & Meriwether Lewis River Marapa Capt. 1st U.S. Regt. Infty
[Clark, October 9, 1804]
9th of October Tuesday 1804 a windey night Some rain, and the wind Continued So high & cold We could not Speck in Council with the Indians, we gave them Some Tobacco and informed them we would Speek tomorrow, all the grand Chiefs visited us to day also Mr Taboe, a trader from St. Louis—Many Canoes of a Single Buffalow Skin made in the form of a Bowl Carrying generally 3 and Sometimes 5 & 6 men, those Canoes, ride the highest Waves—the Indians much asstonished at my Black Servent and Call him the big medison, this nation never Saw a black man before, the wind verry high, I saw at Several times to day 3 Squars in single Buffalow Skin Canoes loaded with meat Cross the River, at the time the waves were as high as I ever Saw them in the Missouri
9th of October, Tuesday, 1804. It was a windy night with some rain, and the wind continued to blow strong and cold. We couldn't speak in council with the Indians, so we gave them some tobacco and let them know we would talk tomorrow. All the grand chiefs visited us today, along with Mr. Taboe, a trader from St. Louis. Many canoes made from a single buffalo skin, shaped like bowls, can carry generally 3 and sometimes 5 or 6 men; these canoes ride the highest waves. The Indians were very surprised by my Black servant and called him the big medicine man. This nation had never seen a Black man before. The wind was very strong, and throughout the day, I saw several times 3 women in single buffalo skin canoes loaded with meat crossing the river, while the waves were as high as I have ever seen them on the Missouri.
[Clark, October 9, 1804]
9th of October 1804 Tuesday a windey rainey night, and Cold, So much So we Could not Speek with the Indians to day the three great Chiefs and many others Came to See us to day, we gave them Some tobacco and informed them we would Speek on tomorrow, the day Continued Cold & windey Some rain Sorry Canoos of Skins passed down from the 2 villages a Short distance above, and many Came to view us all day, much asstonished at my black Servent, who did not lose the oppertunity of his powers Strength &c. &. this nation never Saw a black man before.
9th of October 1804, Tuesday: It was a windy, rainy, and cold night, so much so that we couldn't talk with the Indians today. The three great chiefs and many others came to see us. We gave them some tobacco and told them we would speak tomorrow. The day remained cold and windy, with some rain. Sorry canoes made of skins passed by from the two villages a short distance upstream, and many people came to watch us all day, astonished by my black servant, who took the opportunity to show off his strength, etc. This nation had never seen a black man before.
Several hunters Came in with loads of meat, I observed Several Canoos made of a Single buffalow Skin with 2 & 3 Thre Squars Cross the river to day in Waves as high as I ever Saw them on this river, quite uncomposed I have a Slite Plurise this evening Verry Cold &c. &.
Several hunters came in with loads of meat. I noticed several canoes made from a single buffalo skin, with two or three paddling across the river today in waves as high as I’ve ever seen them on this river, pretty dangerously. I have a slight chill this evening; it's very cold, etc.
1st Chiefs name Ka kawissassa (lighting Crow.) 2d do do Pocasse (or Hay) 3d do do Piaa he to (or Eagles feather)
1st Chiefs name Ka kawissassa (Lightning Crow.) 2nd do do Pocasse (or Hay) 3rd do do Piaa he to (or Eagle's feather)
[Clark, October 10, 1804]
10th of October 1804 at 11 oClock the wind Shifted from S. E to N W. Mr. Taboe visited us—we hear that Some jealousy exists as to the Chiefs to be made—at 1 oclock the Cheifs all assembled under an orning near the Boat, and under the American Flag. we Delivered a Similar Speech to those delivered the Ottoes & Sioux, made three Chiefs, one for each Village and gave them Clothes & flags—1 s Chief is name Ka-ha-wiss assa lighting ravin 2d Chief Po-casse (Hay) & the 3rd Piaheto or Eagles Feather—after the Council was over we Shot the Air gun, which astonished them, & they all left us, I observed 2 Sioux in the Council one of them I had Seen below, they Came to interceed with the Ricaras to Stop us as we were told—the Inds. much astonished at my black Servent, who made him Self more turrible in thier view than I wished him to Doe as I am told telling them that before I cought him he was wild & lived upon people, young children was verry good eating Showed them his Strength &c. &c.—Those Indians are not fond of Licquer of any Kind-
On October 10, 1804, at 11 o'clock, the wind shifted from southeast to northwest. Mr. Taboe visited us, and we heard there was some jealousy regarding the chiefs that were to be appointed. At 1 o'clock, all the chiefs gathered under an awning near the boat and beneath the American flag. We delivered a speech similar to the ones given to the Ottoes and Sioux, appointed three chiefs—one for each village—and presented them with clothes and flags. The first chief's name is Ka-ha-wiss (Lightning Raven), the second chief is Po-casse (Hay), and the third is Piaheto (Eagle's Feather). After the council concluded, we fired the air gun, which amazed them, and they all left us. I noticed two Sioux in the council; one of them I had seen before, and they came to intercede with the Ricaras to stop us, as we had been informed. The Indians were quite surprised by my black servant, who made himself appear more terrifying in their eyes than I intended, as I heard he told them that before I caught him, he was wild and lived on people, claiming that young children were quite good eating. He showed them his strength, etc. These Indians are not fond of liquor of any kind.
[Clark, October 10, 1804]
10th of October Wednesday 1804. a fine forming wind from the S. E at about 11 oClock the wind Shifted, to the N. W. we prepare all things ready to Speak to the Indians, Mr. Tabo & Mr. Gravolin Came to brackfast with us the Chiefs &. came from the lower Town, but none from the 2 upper Towns, which is the largest, we Continue to delay & waite for them at 12 oClock Dispatchd Gravelin to envite them to Come down, we have every reason to believe that a jellousy exists between the Villages for fear of our makeing the 1st Cheif from the lower Village, at one oClock the Cheifs all assembled & after Some little Cerrimony the Council Commenced, we informd them what we had told the others before i e Ottoes & Seaux. made 3 Cheif 1 for each Village. gave them presents.
10th of October, Wednesday, 1804. A nice wind forming from the southeast. At around 11 o'clock, the wind shifted to the northwest. We prepared everything to talk to the Indians. Mr. Tabo and Mr. Gravolin came to breakfast with us. The chiefs came from the lower town, but none from the two upper towns, which are the largest. We continued to delay and wait for them. At 12 o'clock, we dispatched Gravolin to invite them to come down. We have every reason to believe there is jealousy between the villages out of fear that we would make the first chief from the lower village. At one o'clock, all the chiefs assembled, and after a brief ceremony, the council began. We informed them what we had previously told the others, namely the Ottoes and Seaux. We made three chiefs, one for each village, and gave them presents.
after the Council was Over we Shot the air guns which astonished them much, they then Departed and we rested Secure all night, Those Indians wer much astonished at my Servent, They never Saw a black man before, all flocked around him & examind. him from top to toe, he Carried on the joke and made himself more turibal than we wished him to doe. (Thos Indians were not fond of Spirits Licquer. of any kind)
After the Council was over, we fired the air guns, which amazed them a lot. They then left, and we rested safely all night. The Indians were really surprised by my servant; they had never seen a black man before and all gathered around him, examining him from head to toe. He played along with the joke and made himself more terrifying than we wanted him to. (Those Indians were not fond of alcohol of any kind.)
[Clark, October 11, 1804]
11th of October Thursday 1804 wind S. E. at 11 oClock met the 1s Chief in Council, he Thanked us for what we had given him & his people promised to attend to our advise, and Said the road was open for us and no one Dare Shut it &c. &. we took him and one Chief on board and Set out, on our way took in the 2d Chief at the mo of a Small Creek, and Came too off the 2d village which is 3 miles above the Island, we walked up with the 2 & 3 Chiefs to their villages which is Situated on each Side of a Small Creek, they gave us Something to eat in thier way, after Conversations on various Subjects & Beareing the civilities of those people who are both pore & dirtey we informed the Chiefs we would here what they had to Say tomorrow and returned on board about 10 oClock P M. Those people gave us to eat Corn & Beans, a large well flavoured Been which they rob the Mice of in the Plains and is verry nurishing-all tranquillity
11th of October, Thursday, 1804, wind S.E. at 11 o'clock. We met the first Chief in Council. He thanked us for what we had given him and his people, promised to listen to our advice, and said the road was open for us and that no one dared to shut it, etc. We took him and one Chief on board and set out. On our way, we picked up the second Chief at the mouth of a small creek and anchored off the second village, which is 3 miles above the island. We walked up with the second and third Chiefs to their villages, which are situated on either side of a small creek. They offered us something to eat along the way. After discussing various subjects and enduring the civility of those people, who are both poor and dirty, we informed the Chiefs that we would hear what they had to say tomorrow and returned on board around 10 o'clock PM. Those people fed us corn and beans, a large, well-flavored bean they gather from the plains, which is very nourishing—all was peaceful.
[Clark, October 11, 1804]
11th October Thursday 1804 a fine morning the wind from the S. E. at 11 oClock we met the Grand Chief in Council & and he made a Short Speech thanking us for what we had Given him & his nation promisseing to attend to the Council we had given him & informed us the road was open & no one dare Shut it, & we might Departe at pleasure, at 1 oClock we Set out for the upper villages 3 miles distant, the Grand Chief & nephew on board, proceeded on at 1 mile took in the 2d Chief & Came too off the first Second village Seperated from the 3rd by a Creek after arrangeing all matters we walked up with the 2d Chief to his village, and Set talking on various Subjects untile late we also visited the upper or 3rd Village each of which gave us Something to eate in their way, and a fiew bushels of Corn Beens &. &c.
11th October, Thursday, 1804: It was a beautiful morning with the wind coming from the southeast. At 11 o'clock, we met with the Grand Chief in Council, and he gave a short speech thanking us for what we had given him and his nation, promising to attend to the council we had established. He informed us that the road was open and that no one dared to close it, and we could depart whenever we wanted. At 1 o'clock, we set out for the upper villages, which were 3 miles away. The Grand Chief and his nephew were on board, and when we traveled a mile, we picked up the 2nd Chief and came to anchor off the first second village, separated from the third by a creek. After arranging everything, we walked with the 2nd Chief to his village and talked about various subjects until late. We also visited the upper or third village, and each of them provided us with something to eat in their own way, along with a few bushels of corn, beans, etc.
after being treated by everry civility by those people who are both pore & Durtey we returned to our boat at about 10 oClk. P M. informing them before we Departed that we would Speek to them tomorrow at there Seperate Villages. Those people gave us to eate bread made of Corn & Beens, also Corn & Beans boild. a large Been, which they rob the mice of the Prarie which is rich & verry nurrishing also
After being treated with every courtesy by those people who are both poor and dirty, we returned to our boat at about 10 PM, informing them before we departed that we would speak to them tomorrow at their separate villages. They gave us bread made of corn and beans, as well as boiled corn and beans, and a large bean that they gather from the prairie, which is rich and very nourishing.
[Clark, October 11, 1804]
(Ricares)
(Ricares)
October the 11th Thursday 1804 we met in Council to hear what the Grand Chief Ka kaw issassa had to Say in answer to the Speech of yesterday
October 11th, Thursday, 1804, we met in council to hear what Grand Chief Ka kaw issassa had to say in response to yesterday's speech.
The Grand Chief rose and spoke as follows i, e,
The Grand Chief stood up and said the following:
My Fathers-! My heart is glader than it ever was before to See my fathers.—a repetition.
My fathers! My heart is happier than ever to see my fathers. — a repetition.
If you want the road open no one Can provent it it will always be open for you.
If you want the road to be open, no one can stop it; it will always be open for you.
Can you think any one Dare put their hands on your rope of your boat. No! not one dar
Can you think of anyone who would dare to put their hands on the rope of your boat? No! Not a single person.
When you Get to the mandans we wish you to Speak good words with that Nation for us. we wish to be at peace with them.
When you arrive at the Mandans, please speak positively on our behalf to that nation. We hope to be at peace with them.
It gives us pain that we do not Know how to work the Beaver, we will make Buffalow roabs the best we Can.
It pains us that we don't know how to work with the beaver; we will make buffalo robes the best we can.
when you return if I am living you will See me again the same man The Indian in the prarie know me and listen to my words, when you come they will meet to See you.
when you return if I am living you will see me again the same man The Indian in the prairie know me and listen to my words, when you come they will meet to see you.
We Shall look at the river with impatient for your return. Finished
We will look at the river, eagerly waiting for your return.
[Clark, October 12, 1804]
12th of October Friday after Brackfast we joined the Chiefs & Indians on the bank who wer waiting for us, and proseeded to the 1st village and Lodge of the Pocasse, This man Spok at Some lengths, to the Same purpote of the 1 s Chief, & Declareing his intentions of visiting his great father, Some Doubts as to his Safty in Passing the Sioux, requested us to take a Chief of their nation and make a good peace with the Mandan for them, that they Knew that they were the Cause of the war by Killing the 2 Mandan Chiefs—this Chief & people gave us about 7 bushels of Corn, Some Tobacco of their own make, and Seed Legins & a Robe We proceeded to the 3rd Chiefs Village which is the largest, after the usial Seremoney of Eating Smokg. &. he Spoke to near the Same amount of the last Chief, & more pleasently, he gave us 10 bushels of Corn, Some Beens & Simmins, after he had Spoken, and I gave Some Sketches of the Power & Magnitude of Our Countrey, we returned to our Boat, I have the rhumetism on my neck the Chiefs accompanied us on board, we gave them Some Sugar Salt and a Sun Glass each, and after eating a little they returned on Shore leaveing one to accompany us to the Mandans, and we Set out viewed by men womin & children of each village proceeded on about 91/2 miles and Camped on the S S. Clear & Cold—The Ricaras Are about 500 men Mr. Taboe say 600 able to bear arms, and the remains of ten different tribes of Panias reduced by the Small Pox & wares with the Sioux, they are tall Stout men corsily featured, their womin Small & industerous raise great quantites of corn beans &c also Tobacco for the men to Smoke, they collect all the wood and doe the Drudgery common amongst Savages—Their language is So corrupted that many lodges of the Same village with dificuelty under Stand all that each other Say—They are Dirty, Kind, pore, & extravegent; possessing natural pride, no begers, rcive what is given them with pleasure, Thier houses are close together & Towns inclosed with Pickets, thier Lodges are 30 to 40 feet in Diamuter Covered with earth on Neet Poles Set end wise resting on 4 forks Supporting Beems Set in a Square form near the Center, and lower about 5 feet high other forks all around Supt. Strong Beems, from 8 to 10 of those, with a opening at top of about 5 to 6 feet Square, on the Poles which pass to the top, Small Willow & grass is put across to Support the earth—The Sioux exchange, Some merchndze of Small value which they get from Mr. Cameron of St. Peters for Corn &c and have great influence over this people treat them roughly and keep them in contineal dread—The Ricaras are at war with the Crow Indians and Mandans-&c. &—The Ricaras, have a custom Similar to the Sioux in maney instances, they think they cannot Show a Sufficient acknowledgement without to their guest handsom Squars and think they are despised if they are not recved
12th of October, Friday, after breakfast, we joined the Chiefs and Indians on the bank who were waiting for us, and proceeded to the first village and lodge of the Pocasse. This man spoke at length, expressing similar sentiments as the first Chief, and declared his intentions of visiting his great father. Some concerns were raised about his safety in passing the Sioux, and he requested that we take a Chief from their nation and establish a strong peace with the Mandan for them, acknowledging that they were the cause of the war by killing the two Mandan Chiefs. This Chief and his people gave us about seven bushels of corn, some tobacco they made themselves, seed leggings, and a robe. We proceeded to the third Chief's village, which is the largest; after the usual ceremony of eating and smoking, he spoke about the same issues as the last Chief but in a more pleasant manner. He gave us ten bushels of corn, some beans, and simmons. After he spoke, I provided some sketches of the power and magnitude of our country, and we returned to our boat. I have rheumatism in my neck. The Chiefs accompanied us on board, where we gave them some sugar, salt, and a sun glass each. After eating a little, they returned on shore, leaving one to accompany us to the Mandans. We set out, viewed by men, women, and children from each village, and proceeded about 9.5 miles before camping on the south side; it was clear and cold. The Ricaras have about 500 men; Mr. Taboe says 600 able-bodied men. They are the remains of ten different tribes of Panias, reduced by smallpox and wars with the Sioux. They are tall, stout, and coarsely featured; their women are small and industrious, raising large quantities of corn, beans, etc., as well as tobacco for the men to smoke. The women collect all the wood and do the drudgery commonly expected of savages. Their language is so corrupted that many lodges in the same village have difficulty understanding each other. They are dirty, kind, poor, and extravagant; they possess natural pride, do not beg, and receive what is given to them with pleasure. Their houses are close together, and their towns are enclosed with pickets. Their lodges are 30 to 40 feet in diameter and covered with earth on neat poles set upright, resting on four forks supporting beams arranged in a square form near the center and lower about five feet high, with other forks all around supporting strong beams from 8 to 10 in number, and an opening at the top of about five to six feet square. Small willow and grass are placed across to support the earth. The Sioux exchange some merchandise of small value, which they get from Mr. Cameron of St. Peters, for corn, etc., and have great influence over these people, treating them roughly and keeping them in continual dread. The Ricaras are at war with the Crow Indians and Mandans. The Ricaras have a custom similar to the Sioux in many instances; they believe they cannot show sufficient acknowledgment to their guests without offering handsome gifts and think they are looked down upon if they are not received well.
The Sioux followed us with women two days we put them off. the Ricarries we put off dureing the time we were near their village—2 were Sent by a man to follow us, and overtook us this evening, we Still procisted in a refusial-The Dress of the Ricara men is Simpally a pr. of Mockersons & Legins, a flap, and a Buffalow Robe—Their Hair is long and lais loose their arms & ears are decerated with trinkets
The Sioux followed us for two days after we turned them away. The Ricara stayed away during the time we were near their village—two were sent by a man to follow us and caught up with us this evening, but we still insisted on refusing. The Ricara men dress simply in a pair of moccasins and leggings, with a flap and a buffalo robe. Their hair is long and worn loose, and their arms and ears are adorned with trinkets.
The womin Dress Mockersons & Legins & Skirt of the Skin of the Cabre or Antelope, long fringed & roab to the fringes & with Sleaves, verry white, and Roabes—all were Dressed to be without hare in the Summer
The women wore dress mockers, leggings, and skirts made from the skin of the cabre or antelope, with long fringes and robes to the fringes, and with sleeves, all very white. The robes were all designed to be hairless for the summer.
Those people make large Beeds of Diferrent colours, out of glass or Beeds of Dift colours, verry ingeniously
Those people make large beads of different colors, out of glass or beads of different colors, very ingeniously.
[Clark, October 12, 1804]
12th October Friday 1804 I rose early after brackfast we joined the Indians who were waiting on the bank for us to come out and go and Council, we accordingly joined them and went to the house of the 2nd Chief Lassil where there was many Chief and warriers & about 7 bushels of Corn, a pr Leagins a twist of their Tobacco & Seeds of 2 Kind of Tobacco we Set Some time before the Councill Commenced this man Spoke at Some length declareing his dispotion to believe and prosue our Councils, his intention of going to Visit his great father acknowledged the Satisfaction in receiveing the presents &c. rais'g a Doubt as to the Safty on passing the nations below particularly the Souex. requested us to take a Chief of their nation and make a good pact with Mandins & nations above. after answering those parts of the 2d Chiefs Speech which required it, which appeared to give General Satisfaction we went to the Village of the 3rd Chief and as usial Some Serimony took place before he Could Speek to us on the Great Subject. This Chief Spoke verry much in the Stile on nearly the Same Subjects of the other Chief who Set by his Side, more Sincear & pleasently, he presented us with about 10 bushels of Corn Some beens & quashes all of which we acksepted with much pleasure, after we had ansd. his Speech & give them Some account of the Magnitude & power of our Countrey which pleased and astonished them verry much we returned to our boat, the Chiefs accompanied us on board, we gave them Some Sugar a little Salt, and a Sun Glass, & Set 2 on Shore & the third proceeded on with us to the Mandens by name, at 2 oClock we Set out the inhabitints of the two Villages Viewing us from the banks, we proceeded on about 91/2 miles and Camped on the S. S. at Some woods passed, the evening Clear & pleasent Cooler
12th October, Friday, 1804. I woke up early. After breakfast, we joined the Indians who were waiting for us on the bank to go to a council. We went with them to the house of the 2nd Chief, Lassil, where many chiefs and warriors were present, along with about 7 bushels of corn, a pair of leggings, a twist of their tobacco, and seeds of two kinds of tobacco. We spent some time before the council began. This man spoke at length, expressing his desire to believe in and support our councils, mentioning his intention to visit his "great father," and expressing satisfaction in receiving the gifts, while raising concerns about the safety of passing through the nations downriver, especially the Sioux. He requested that we take a chief from their nation to establish a good agreement with the Mandans and the nations upstream. After addressing the parts of the 2nd Chief's speech that needed a response, which seemed to please everyone, we went to the village of the 3rd Chief. As usual, some ceremonies took place before he could speak to us on the important issues. This Chief talked similarly to the other Chief sitting next to him, but in a more sincere and pleasant manner. He presented us with about 10 bushels of corn, some beans, and squashes, all of which we accepted gladly. After responding to his speech and giving them some account of the size and power of our country, which amazed and pleased them greatly, we returned to our boat. The chiefs joined us on board. We gave them some sugar, a little salt, and a sun glass, setting two chiefs ashore while the third came with us to the Mandans. At 2 o'clock, we set out, with the inhabitants of the two villages watching us from the banks. We traveled about 9.5 miles and camped on the south side, near some woods, with the evening clear, pleasant, and cooler.
The Nation of the Rickerries is about 600 men able to bear arms a Great perpotion of them have fusees they appear to be peacefull, their men tall and perpotiend, womin Small and industerous, raise great quantities of Corn Beens Simmins &c. also Tobacco for the men to Smoke they Collect all the wood and do the drugery as Common amongst Savages.
The Nation of the Rickerries has about 600 men who can bear arms. A large portion of them have muskets. They seem to be peaceful; the men are tall and strong, while the women are small but hardworking. They grow large quantities of corn, beans, simmins, etc., as well as tobacco for the men to smoke. The women gather all the firewood and do the labor, which is common among indigenous peoples.
Thise nation is made up of 10 Different Tribes of the Pania, who had formerly been Seperate, but by Commotion and war with their neighbours have Come reduced and compelled to Come together for protection, The Curruption of the language of those different Tribes has So reduced the language that the Different Villages do not understade all the words of the others.—Those people are Durtey, Kind, pore, & extravigent pursessing national pride. not beggarley reive what is given with great pleasure, Live in worm houses large and built in an oxigon form forming a Cone at top which is left open for the Smoke to pass, those houses are generally 30 or 40 foot Diamiter. Covd. with earth on poles willows & grass to prevent the earths passing thro, Those people express an inclination to be at peace with all nations The Seaux who trade the goods which they get of the British Traders for their corn, and great influence over the Rickeres, poisen their minds and keep them in perpetial dread.
This nation is made up of 10 different tribes of the Pania, who were once separate but have come together due to conflict and war with their neighbors for protection. The corruption of the language among these tribes has made it so that the different villages do not understand all the words of one another. These people are dirty, kind, poor, and extravagant, possessing national pride. They don’t beg; instead, they receive what is given with great pleasure. They live in warm houses that are large and built in a cone shape with an open top for the smoke to escape. These houses are generally 30 or 40 feet in diameter, covered with earth on poles, willows, and grass to prevent the earth from passing through. These people show a desire to be at peace with all nations. The Seaux, who trade goods obtained from British traders for their corn, have great influence over the Rickeres, poisoning their minds and keeping them in perpetual fear.
I Saw Some of the Chien or Dog Indians, also a man of a nation under the Court new-This nation is at war with the Crow Indians & have 3 Children prisoners.
I saw some of the Dog Indians and a man from a nearby nation. This nation is at war with the Crow Indians and has three children as prisoners.
a curious Cuistom with the Souix as well as the reckeres is to give handsom Squars to those whome they wish to Show Some acknowledgements to—The Seauix we got Clare of without taking their Squars, they followed us with Squars 13th two days. The Rickores we put off dureing the time we were at the Towns but 2 Handsom young Squars were Sent by a man to follow us, they Came up this evening and peresisted in their Civilities.
a curious custom with the Sioux as well as the Rickores is to give beautiful girls to those whom they wish to show some acknowledgment to—The Sioux we managed to avoid without taking their girls; they followed us with girls for two days. We put off the Rickores during the time we were at the towns, but two beautiful young girls were sent by a man to follow us; they arrived this evening and insisted on their courtesies.
Dress of the men of this nation is Simply a pr. mockerson, Leagins, flap in front & a Buffalow roabe, with ther arms & ears Deckorated The women, wore Mockersons leagins fringed and a Shirt of Goat Skins, Some with Sleaves. this garment is longe & Genlry. White & fringed, tied at the waste with a roabe, in Summer without hair.
The men of this nation typically wear a pair of moccasins, leggings, and a buffalo robe, with their arms and ears decorated. The women wear fringed moccasins, leggings, and a goat skin shirt, some with sleeves. This garment is long and generally white and fringed, tied at the waist with a robe, and in summer, they wear it without hair.
[Clark, October 12, 1804]
2nd Chief Ricaras
2nd Chief Ricaras
My Father, I am glad to See this is a fine Day to here the good Councils & talk good talk I am glad to See you & that your intentions are to open the road for all we See that our Grand father has Sent you to open the road we See it Our Grand father by Sending you means to take pity on us Our Grand father has Sent you with tobacco to make peace with all nations, we think
My Father, I'm happy to see that this is a great day to hear wise advice and have good conversations. I'm glad to see you and that you intend to pave the way for everyone. We see that our Grandfather has sent you to clear the path. By sending you, our Grandfather shows that he wants to help us. Our Grandfather has sent you with tobacco to make peace with all nations, and we believe this.
The first nation who has recomended the road to be clear and open. You Come here & have Directed all nations which you have met to open & clear the road. you come to See the water & roads to Clear them as Clear as possible
The first nation that has recommended the road to be clear and open. You come here and have directed all nations you’ve met to open and clear the road. You come to see the water and roads to clear them as much as possible.
you just now Come to See us, & we wish you to tell our Grand ftar that we wish the road to be kept Clear & open. I expect the Chief in the next Town will tell you the Same to move on & open the road
You just arrived to see us, and we want you to inform our Grand Star that we want the road to be kept clear and open. I expect the Chief in the next town will tell you the same thing, to keep moving and open the road.
I think when you Saw the nations below they wish you to open the road- (or something to that amount) when you passd. the Souex they told you the Same I expect. we See you here to day we are pore our women have no Strouds & Knives to Cut their meat take pitty on us when you return.
I think when you saw the nations below, they wanted you to open the road (or something like that) when you passed. The Sioux told you the same, I’m sure. We see you here today; we are poor, our women have no skirts and knives to cut their meat. Please have pity on us when you return.
you Come here & Derect us to Stay at home & not go to war, we Shall do So, we hope you will when you get to the Mandins you will tell them the Same & Cleer the road, no one Dar to Stop you, you go when you please,
you come here and direct us to stay home and not go to war, we shall do so. We hope that when you get to the Mandins, you will tell them the same and clear the road; no one dares to stop you, you can go whenever you want.
The you tell us to go Down, we will go and See our grand father & here & receve his Gifts, and think fully that our nation will be covered after our return, our people will look for us with the same impatience that our Grand father looks for your return, to Give him
The moment you tell us to go down, we will visit our grandfather and receive his gifts. We believe that our nation will be protected after our return. Our people will wait for us with the same eagerness that our grandfather has for your return, to give him.
If I am going to See my grand father, many bad nations on the road, I am not afraid to Die for the good of my people (all Cried around him.)
If I’m going to see my grandfather, I’m not afraid to die for the good of my people, even with all the dangerous nations along the way. (Everyone cried around him.)
The Chief By me will go to the Mandans & hear what they will Say. (we agree'd.)
The Chief will go to the Mandans and hear what they have to say. (we agreed.)
The verry moment we Set out to go down we will Send out my Brother to bring all the Nation in the open prarie to See me part on this Great mission to See my Great father.
The very moment we set out to leave, we'll send my brother to gather everyone in the open prairie to see me depart on this great mission to visit my great father.
our people hunting Shall be glad to here of your being here & they will all Come to See, as you Cannot Stay they must wate for your return to See you, we are pore take pity on our wants
Our people who are hunting will be happy to hear that you’re here, and they will all come to see you. Since you can’t stay, they have to wait for your return to see you. We are poor, so please have compassion for our needs.
The road is for you all to go on, who do you think will injure a white man when they come to exchange for our Roabes & Beaver
The road is for all of you to travel. Who do you think would hurt a white man when they're coming to trade for our robes and beaver?
after you Set out many nations in the open plains may Come to make war against us, we wish you to Stop their guns & provent it if possible. Finished
after you set out, many nations in the open plains may come to make war against us. we want you to stop their guns and prevent it if possible. Finished
3d Chief of Ricares
3D Chief of Ricares
My fathers I will see the Indians below & See if they have the hart as they tell you
My fathers, I will go see the Indians below and see if they have the heart as they say.
The nation below is the Mahas & Ottes & but one nation, (the Souix) has not a good heart.
The nation below is the Mahas & Ottes & but one nation, (the Souix) does not have a good heart.
I always look at the 1 t Chief & the 2d whin they go & will also follow ther example & go on also
I always watch the chief and the second when they go, and I’ll follow their example and go too.
You See those 2 men they are chiefs, when I go they will take Care, they beleve your words.
You see those two men? They are leaders. When I leave, they will take care of things. They believe your words.
Mabie we will not tell the trooth, as to the Child perhaps they will not wish to go.
Mabye we won’t tell the truth, as for the child, maybe they won’t want to go.
My Children the old women & men whin I return I can then give them, Some a Knife Some powder & others Ball &c. What is the matter if we was to go for nothing my great Chief wish to go, I wish to go also.
My kids, the old women and men, when I return, I can then give them some knives, some powder, and others some bullets, etc. What's the issue if we go for nothing? My great chief wants to go; I want to go too.
when I go to See my Grand father I wish to return quicke for fear of my people being uneasy.
when I go to see my grandfather, I wish to return quickly for fear of my family being worried.
my Children are Small & perhaps will be uneasy whin I may be Safe
my children are small and might be uneasy when I might be safe
I must go, I also wish to go, perhaps I may when I return make my people glad
I have to go, I want to go, and maybe when I come back, I can make my people happy.
I will Stay at home & not go to War even if my people are Struck
I will stay at home and not go to war, even if my people are affected.
we will believ your word but I fear the Indians above will not believe your word.
we will believe your word, but I’m afraid the Native Americans above won’t believe you.
I will think that 1/2 of the men who will return will Stay in this Village 1/2 below in the other villages
I believe that half of the men who come back will stay in this village, and half will go to the other villages.
what did the Seaus tell you—(we informd them)
what did the Seaus tell you—(we informed them)
[Clark, October 13, 1804]
13th of October Satturday 1804 Newmon Confined for Mutinous expressions, proceeded on passed a Camp of Sioux on the S. S. those people did not Speak to us. passed a Creek on the S. S. 18 miles above the Ricaras I call Stone Idol Creek, this Creek heads in a Small lake at no great distance, near which there is a Stone to which the Indians asscribe great virtue &. &c. at 21 Miles passed a Creek 15 yds wide on the L. S I call Pocasse, we observed great quantites of grapes, a fine Breez from S E Camped on the L. S. Some rain thus evening, we formed a Court Martial of 7 of our party to Try Newmon, they Senteenced him 75 Lashes and banishment from the party—The river narrow current jentle & wood plenty on the Bottoms the up land is as usial Open divircified plains, generally rich & leavel.
October 13th, Saturday, 1804 Newmon was confined for mutinous remarks. We passed a camp of Sioux on the south side, but they didn’t speak to us. We passed a creek on the south side, 18 miles above the Ricaras, which I named Stone Idol Creek. This creek originates from a small lake nearby, where there’s a stone that the Indians believe has special significance. After 21 miles, we passed a creek 15 yards wide on the left side, which I called Pocasse. We noticed a lot of grapes and enjoyed a nice breeze from the southeast. We camped on the left side. It rained a bit this evening. We formed a court-martial with seven members from our party to try Newmon. They sentenced him to 75 lashes and banishment from the group. The river is narrow, the current gentle, and there’s plenty of wood along the banks. The upland is typical open and varied plains, generally rich and flat.
[Clark, October 13, 1804]
13th of October Satturday 1804 one man J. Newmon Confined for mutinous expression Set out early proceeded on, passd. a Camp of Seauex on the S. S. those people only viewed us & did not Speak one word—The visiters of last evening all except one returned which is the Brother of the Chief we have on board passed (1) a Creek on the S. S. 13 yds. at 18 me. above the Town heading in Some Ponds a Short Diste. to the N. E we call Stone Idol C. (well to observe here that the Yankton or R Jacque heads at about 2 Days March of this place Easterly, the R de Seauex one Day further, the Chien a branch of R. Rouche Still beyend, and the River St. Peters 4 Days March from this place on the Same direction Informtn. of the Rickores). passed 2 large willow (2) & Sand Islands above the mouth of the last Creek—at 21 miles above the Village passed a (3) Creek about 15 yards wide on the L. S. we Call after 2d Chief Pocasse (or Hay) nearly opposit this creek a fiew miles from the river on the S. S. 2 Stones resembling humane persons & one resembling a Dog is Situated in the open Prarie, to those Stone the Rickores pay Great reverance make offerings whenever they pass (Infomtn. of the Chief & Intepeter) those people have a Curious Tredition of those Stones, one was a man in Love, one a Girl whose parents would not let marry, the Dog went to mourn with them all turned to Stone gradually, Commenceing at the feet. Those people fed on grapes untill they turned, & the woman has a bunch of grapes yet in her hand on the river near the place those are Said to be Situated, we obsd. a greater quantity of fine grapes than I ever Saw at one place.
13th of October, Saturday, 1804. One man, J. Newmon, was confined for mutinous expressions. We set out early and passed a camp of Sioux on the south side; those people only watched us and didn’t say a word. The visitors from last evening all returned except for one, who is the brother of the chief we have on board. We passed (1) a creek on the south side, 13 yards wide, 18 miles above the town, heading into some ponds a short distance to the northeast, which we call Stone Idol Creek. (It’s worth noting that the Yankton or R. Jacque heads about a two-day march east of this place, the R. de Sioux is one day farther, the Chien, a branch of the R. Rouch, is still beyond that, and the River St. Peters is a four-day march from this place in the same direction, according to information from the Rickores.) We passed two large willow (2) and sand islands above the mouth of the last creek. At 21 miles above the village, we passed a (3) creek about 15 yards wide on the left side, which we named after the second chief, Pocasse (or Hay). Nearly opposite this creek, a few miles from the river on the south side, there are two stones resembling human figures and one resembling a dog, situated in the open prairie. The Rickores hold these stones in great reverence and make offerings whenever they pass (information from the chief and interpreter). These people have a curious tradition about the stones: one was a man in love, and the other was a girl whose parents wouldn’t let her marry. The dog went to mourn with them, and they all gradually turned to stone, starting at their feet. Those people fed on grapes until they turned to stone, and the woman still has a bunch of grapes in her hand at the river near where these stones are said to be located. We observed a larger quantity of fine grapes than I have ever seen in one place.
The river about the Island on which the lower Rickores Village is Situated is narrow and Conts. a great propotion of Timber than below, the bottoms on both Sides is Covered with timber the up lands naked the Current jentle and Sand bars Confined to the points Generally
The river around the island where Lower Rickores Village is located is narrow and contains a lot more timber than downstream. The riverbanks on both sides are covered with trees, while the uplands are bare. The current is gentle, and sandbars are generally found at the points.
We proceeded on under a fine Breeze from the S.E. and Camped late at the upper part of Some wood on the Starboard Side, Cold & Some rain this evening. we Sent out hunters Killed one Deer.
We continued on with a nice breeze from the southeast and set up camp late in a wooded area on the right side. It was cold and there was some rain this evening. We sent out hunters who killed one deer.
We Tried the Prisoner Newmon last night by 9 of his Peers they did "Centence him 75 Lashes & Disbanded the party."
We tried the prisoner Newmon last night with 9 of his peers, and they sentenced him to 75 lashes and disbanded the party.
[Lewis and Clark, October 13, 1804]
Orders 13th of October 1804 A court Martial to Consist of nine members will set to day at 12 oClock for the trial of John Newman now under Confinement Capt. Clark will attend to the forms & rules of a president without giveing his opinion
Orders 13th of October 1804 A court martial consisting of nine members will convene today at 12 o'clock for the trial of John Newman, who is currently in confinement. Capt. Clark will oversee the procedures and rules of the president without offering his opinion.
Detail for the Court Martial
Sert. John Ordaway
Sergeant Pat. Gass
Jo. Shields
H. Hall
Jo. Collins
Wm. Werner
Wm. Bratten
Jo. Shannon
Silas Goodrich
Meriwether Lewis
Capt. 1st U S. Regt. Infty.
Win Clark Capt
or E. N W D
Detail for the Court Martial
Sgt. John Ordaway
Sgt. Pat Gass
Jo. Shields
H. Hall
Jo. Collins
Wm. Werner
Wm. Bratten
Jo. Shannon
Silas Goodrich
Meriwether Lewis
Capt. 1st U.S. Regt. Inf.
Win Clark Capt
or E. N W D In conformity to the above order the Court martial convened this day for the trial of John Newman, charged with "having uttered repeated expressions of a highly criminal and mutinous nature; the same having a tendency not only to distroy every principle of military discipline, but also to alienate the affections of the individuals composing this Detachment to their officers, and disaffect them to the service for which they have been so sacredly and solemnly engaged."—The Prisonar plead not guilty to the charge exhibited against him. The court after having duly considered the evidence aduced, as well as the defense of the said prisonor, are unanimously of opinion that the prisonar John Newman is guilty of every part of the charge exhibited against him, and do sentence him agreeably to the rules and articles of war, to receive seventy five lashes on his bear back, and to be henceforth discarded from the perminent party engaged for North Western discovery; two thirds of the Court concurring in the sum and nature of the punishment awarded. the commanding officers approve and confirm the sentence of the court, and direct the punishment take place tomorrow between the hours of one and two P.M.—The commanding officers further direct that John Newman in future be attatched to the mess and crew of the red Perogue as a labouring hand on board the same, and that he be deprived of his arms and accoutrements, and not be permited the honor of mounting guard untill further orders; the commanding officers further direct that in lue of the guard duty from which Newman has been exempted by virtue of this order, that he shall be exposed to such drudgeries as they may think proper to direct from time to time with a view to the general relief of the detachment.-
In line with the above order, the Court Martial convened today to try John Newman, who is charged with "having made repeated statements of a highly criminal and mutinous nature; these statements not only threaten to undermine every principle of military discipline but also risk alienating the bonds between the members of this Detachment and their officers, causing them to become disaffected towards the service they have been so solemnly committed to."—The prisoner pleaded not guilty to the charges against him. After thoroughly considering the evidence presented and the defense put forth by the prisoner, the court is unanimously of the opinion that John Newman is guilty of all charges. Therefore, they sentence him, in accordance with the rules and articles of war, to receive seventy-five lashes on his bare back and to be permanently removed from the team engaged in North Western discovery; two-thirds of the court concur in the type and severity of this punishment. The commanding officers approve and confirm the court's sentence and order the punishment to take place tomorrow between one and two P.M. The commanding officers further direct that John Newman be assigned to the mess and crew of the red Perogue as a laborer on board, that he be stripped of his arms and equipment, and that he not be allowed the honor of guard duty until further notice; they also direct that, in lieu of the guard duty from which Newman has been exempted by this order, he will be subjected to whatever menial tasks they deem appropriate to relieve the detachment from time to time.
[Clark, October 14, 1804]
14th of October Sunday 1804 Some rain last night we Set out in the rain which continued all day passed a Creek on the L. S. Piaheto 15 yds Wide, halted on a Sand bar and had the punishmt inflicted on Newmon, which caused the indian Chieif to cry untill the thing was explained to him Camped opposit an antient fortification which is on the L. S, when I explained to the Chief the Cause of whipping N—he observed that examples were necessary & that he himself had made them by Death, but his nation never whiped even from their bearth.
14th of October, Sunday, 1804. Some rain last night, and we set out in the rain, which continued all day. We passed a creek on the left side, 15 yards wide. We took a break on a sandbar and punished Newman, which made the Indian chief cry until I explained the situation to him. We camped opposite an ancient fortification on the left side. When I explained to the chief why we whipped Newman, he noted that examples were necessary and that he had made them through death, but his people never whipped anyone, even from their birth.
[Clark, October 14, 1804]
14th of October Sunday 1804. Some rain last night all wet & Cold, we Set early the rain contind all Day at ____ miles we passed a (1) Creek in the L. S. 15 yards wide this Creek we Call after the 3rd Chief Piaheto (or Eagles feather) at 1 oClock we halted on a Sand bar & after Dinner executed the Sentence of the Court Martial So far as giveing the Corporal punishment, & proceeded on a fiew miles, the wind a head from N. E. Camped in a Cove of the bank on the S. S. imediately opposit our Camp on the L. Side I observe an antient fortification the walls of which appear to be 8 or 10 feet high, the evening wet and disagreeable, the river Something wider more timber on the banks
14th of October, Sunday, 1804. It rained last night, and it’s all wet and cold. We set out early, and the rain continued all day. We passed a creek that's 15 yards wide on the left side, which we named after the third chief, Piaheto (or Eagle's Feather). At 1 o'clock, we stopped on a sandbar, and after lunch, we carried out the punishment decided by the court-martial, which involved corporal punishment, then proceeded a few miles. The wind was coming from the northeast. We camped in a cove on the south side, directly across from our camp on the left side. I noticed an ancient fortification with walls that look to be 8 to 10 feet high. The evening was wet and unpleasant, and the river appeared somewhat wider with more trees along the banks.
The punishment of this day allarmd. the Indian Chief verry much, he Cried aloud (or effected to Cry) I explained the Cause of the punishment and the necessity He thought examples were also necessary, & he himself had made them by Death, his nation never whiped even their Children, from their burth.
The punishment on this day really alarmed the Indian Chief. He cried out (or pretended to cry). I explained the reason for the punishment and its necessity. He believed that examples were also important, and he himself had set examples through death; his people never even punished their children with a beating from the time they were born.
[Clark, October 15, 1804]
15th of October Rained all last night, passed a Ricara hunting camp on the S.S. & halted at another on the L.S, Several from the 1t Camp visited us and gave meat as also those of the Camp we halted at, we gave them fish hooks Some beeds &c. as we proceeded on we Saw a number of Indians on both Sides all day, Saw L. S some Curious Nnobs high and much the resemblance of a hiped rough house, we halted at a Camp of 10 Lodges of Ricaras on the S. S., we visited thier Lodges & were friendly recved by all—their women fond of our men—&c.
15th of October It rained all night. We passed a Ricara hunting camp on the south side and stopped at another one on the left side. Several people from the first camp came to visit us and brought us meat, and those from the camp we stopped at did the same. We gave them fish hooks, some beads, and other items. As we continued on, we saw a number of Indians on both sides all day. On the left side, we noticed some curious knobs that were tall and very much resembled an old, rough house. We stopped at a camp with 10 lodges of Ricaras on the south side, visited their lodges, and were warmly received by everyone—their women seemed quite taken with our men, etc.
[Clark, October 15, 1804]
15th of October Monday 1804 rained all last night, we Set out early and proceeded on at 3 Miles passed an Ind. Camp on the S. S. we halted above and about 30 of the Indians came over in their Canoos of Skins, we eate with them, they give us meat, in return we gave fishhooks & Some beeds, about a mile higher we came too on the L. S. at a Camp of Ricres of about 8 Lodges, we also eate & they gave Some meat, we proceded on Saw numbers of Indians on both Sides passing a Creek, Saw many Curious hills, high and much the resemblance of a house with a hiped roof, at 12 oClock it Cleared away and the evening was pleasent, wind from the N. E.—at Sunset we arrived at a Camp of Ricares of 10 Lodges on the S. S. we Came too and Camped near them Capt Lewis & my Self went with the Chief who accompanis us, to the Huts of Several of the men all of whome Smoked & gave us Something to eate also Some meat to take away, those people were kind and appeared to be much plsd. at the attentioned paid them.
15th of October, Monday, 1804: It rained all night. We set out early and traveled 3 miles, passing an Indian camp on the south side. We stopped above it, and about 30 of the Indians came over in their skin canoes. We ate with them; they gave us meat, and in return, we gave them fishhooks and some beads. About a mile further, we arrived at a camp of Ricarees with about 8 lodges on the left side. We ate there as well, and they provided some meat. We continued on and saw numerous Indians on both sides as we passed a creek. We observed many interesting hills, tall and resembling houses with hipped roofs. At noon, it cleared up, and the evening was pleasant, with a wind from the northeast. At sunset, we reached a camp of Ricarees with 10 lodges on the south side. We set up camp nearby. Captain Lewis and I went with the chief, who accompanied us, to the huts of several men. They all smoked and offered us something to eat, as well as some meat to take with us. These people were kind and seemed to appreciate the attention we paid them.
Those people are much pleased with my black Servent—Their womin verry fond of carressing our men. &.
Those people are very pleased with my Black servant. Their women are quite fond of affectionately interacting with our men. &.
[Clark, October 16, 1804]
16th of October Tuesday 1804 Some rain this morning 2 Squars verry anxious to accompany us we Set out with our Chief on Board by name Ar ke tar nar shar (or Chief of the Town) a little above our Camp on the L. S. passed an old Shyenne Village, which appears to have been Serounded with a wall of earth; this is the retreat & first Stand of this nation after being reduced by the Sioux and drove from their Countrey on the heads of red River of L Winipic where they Cultivated the landspassed a Creek I call So-harch or Girl Creek L. S. 2 miles higher passed Woman Crreek or Char-parts passed an Island Situated in a bend to the S. S. at the lower point of this Island a Creek comes in Called Kee-tooth
16th of October, Tuesday, 1804. It rained this morning. Two square members were very eager to join us as we set out with our chief on board, named Arketarnarshar (or Chief of the Town), a bit above our camp on the left side. We passed an old Shyenne village, which seems to have been surrounded by an earth wall. This was the refuge and initial stand of this nation after being weakened by the Sioux and driven from their territory in the headwaters of the Red River of Lake Winnipeg, where they farmed the land. We passed a creek I named So-harch or Girl Creek on the left side, two miles further on, and then Woman Creek or Char-parts. We also passed an island situated in a bend on the south side. At the lower point of this island, a creek comes in called Kee-tooth.
Sar-kar-nar—or the place of Beaver above the Island a Small River on the Same S. Side Called War-re-Con nee Elk shed their horns, this river is 35 yards wide & heads near the River au Jacque, Carp Island wind hard a head from the N W. Saw great numbers of goats or Antelope on Shore, Capt Lewis one man & the Ricara Chief walked on Shore, in the evening I discovered a number of Indians on each Side and goats in the river or Swiming & on Sand bars, when I came near Saw the boys in the water Swiming amongst the goats & Killing them with Sticks, and then hauling them to the Shore those on Shore Kept them in the water, I saw 58 Killed in this way and on the Shore, the hunter with Cap Lewis Shot 3 goats I came too and Camped above the Ricara Camp on the L. S. Several Indians visited us duereing the night Some with meat, Sang and were merry all night.
Sar-kar-nar—or the place of Beaver above the Island, a small river on the same south side called War-re-Con, where elk shed their horns. This river is 35 yards wide and starts near the River au Jacque, with strong winds from the northwest. I saw a lot of goats or antelope on the shore. Captain Lewis, one man, and the Ricara Chief walked on shore. In the evening, I spotted a number of Indians on each side and goats in the river or swimming on sandbars. As I got closer, I saw boys in the water swimming among the goats and killing them with sticks, then dragging them to the shore. Those on shore kept them in the water. I saw 58 killed this way, both in the water and on the shore. The hunter with Captain Lewis shot 3 goats. I then set up camp above the Ricara camp on the left side. Several Indians visited us during the night, some with meat, sang, and were merry all night.
[Clark, October 16, 1804]
16th October Tuesday 1804 Some rain this morning, 2 young Squars verry anxious to accompany us, we Set out with our Chief on board by name Ar ke tar na Shar or Chief of the Town, a little above our Camp on the L. S. passed a Circular work, where the, Shar ha (or Chien, or Dog Indians) formerly lived, a Short distance abov passed a Creek which we Call Chien Creek, above is a willow Island Situated near (i ) the L. Side a large Sand bar above & on both Sides (2) passed a Creek above the Island on the L. S. call So-harch (or Girls) Creek, at 2 miles higher up (3) passed a Creek on L. S. call Char part (or womins) Creek passed (5) an Island Situated in a bend to the S. S. this Isd. is about 11/2 miles long, Covered with timber Such as Cotton wood, opsd. the lower point a creek coms in on the S. S. called by the Indians Kee tooth Sar kar nar (or place of Beavr) above the Island a Small river about 35 yards wide corns in Called War re con ne or (Elk Shed their horns). The Island is Called Carp Island by Ivens. wind hard from the N. W. Saw great numbers of Goats on the Shore S. S. proceeded on Capt. Lewis & the Indian Chief walked on Shore, Soon after I discovered Great numbers of Goats in the river, and Indians on the Shore on each Side, as I approached or got nearer I discovered boys in the water Killing the Goats with Sticks and halling them to Shore, Those on the banks Shot them with arrows and as they approachd. the Shore would turn them back of this Gangue of Goats I counted 58 of which they had killed & on the Shore, one of our hunters out with Cap Lewis killed three Goats, we passed the Camp on the S. S. and proceeded 1/2 mile and Camped on the L. S. many Indians came to the boat to See, Some Came across late at night, as they approach they hollowed and Sung, after Staying a Short time 2 went for Some meat, and returned in a Short time with fresh & Dried Buffalow, also goat, those Indians Strayed all night, They Sung and was verry merry the greater part of the night
16th October Tuesday 1804 Some rain this morning. Two young Squars were really eager to join us. We set out with our Chief on board, named Ar ketarna Shar, who is the Chief of the Town, a little above our Camp on the left side. We passed a circular area where the Shar ha (or Chien, or Dog Indians) used to live, a short distance above. We passed a creek which we call Chien Creek, and above that is a willow island located near (i) the left side with a large sandbar above and on both sides (2). We passed a creek above the island on the left side called So-harch (or Girls Creek). About two miles further up (3), we passed a creek on the left side called Char part (or women's) Creek. We passed (5) an island situated in a bend on the south side; this island is about 1.5 miles long and covered with timber like cottonwood. Opposite the lower point, a creek comes in on the south side called by the Indians Kee tooth Sar kar nar (or place of Beaver). Above the island, a small river about 35 yards wide comes in, called War re con ne (or Elk Shed their horns). The island is called Carp Island by Ivens. The wind was strong from the northwest. I saw many goats on the south shore. We continued on while Captain Lewis and the Indian Chief walked along the shore. Soon after, I noticed a large number of goats in the river, along with Indians on the shore on each side. As I got closer, I saw boys in the water killing the goats with sticks and hauling them to shore. Those on the banks shot them with arrows, and as the goats approached the shore, they would turn them back. From this group of goats, I counted 58 that they had killed and had on the shore. One of our hunters out with Captain Lewis killed three goats. We passed the camp on the south side and proceeded half a mile and camped on the left side. Many Indians came to the boat to watch. Some came across late at night; as they approached, they hollered and sang. After staying a short while, two went for some meat and returned shortly with fresh and dried buffalo, as well as goat. Those Indians stayed the whole night, singing and were very merry for most of the night.
[Lewis, October 16, 1804]
October 16th This day took a small bird alive of the order of the ____ or goat suckers. it appeared to be passing into the dormant state. on the morning of the 18th the murcury was at 30 above 0. the bird could scarcely move.—I run my penknife into it's body under the wing and completely distroyed it's lungs and heart—yet it lived upwards of two hours this fanominon I could not account for unless it proceeded from the want of circulation of the blood.—the recarees call this bird to'-na it's note is at-tah-to'-nah'; at-tah'to'-nah'; to-nah, a nocturnal bird, sings only in the night as does the whipperwill.—it's weights oz 17 Grains Troy
October 16th: I caught a small bird today from the order of the ____ or goat suckers. It seemed to be entering a dormant state. On the morning of the 18th, the mercury was at 30 degrees above zero. The bird could hardly move. I used my penknife to stab into its body under the wing and completely destroyed its lungs and heart, yet it lived for over two hours. I couldn't explain this phenomenon unless it was due to a lack of blood circulation. The natives call this bird to'-na, and its call sounds like at-tah-to'-nah'; at-tah'to'-nah'; to-nah. It's a nocturnal bird that sings only at night, like the whipperwill. It weighs 17 Troy ounces.
[Clark, October 17, 1804]
17th of October 1804 Wind S. W. I walked on Shore with the Ricara Chief and an Inteprieter, they told me maney extroadenary Stories, I Killed 3 Dear & a Elk, the Chief Killed a Deer and our hunters Killed 4 Deer, in my absenc the wind rose So high that the Boat lay too all Day; Latd 46° 23' 57" N, I caught a Small uncommon whiperwill we observe emence herds of Goats, or Antelopes flocking down from the N E Side & Swiming the River, the Chief tels me those animals winter in the Black Mountain, and in the fall return to those mounts from every quarter, and in the Spring disperse in the planes, those emence herds we See all of which is on the N E Side of the River is on their way to the mountain, and in the Spring they will be as noumeroes on their return (some ganges winter on the Missouri)—camped on the L. S.
October 17, 1804 Wind S.W. I walked on shore with the Ricara Chief and an interpreter. They shared many incredible stories with me. I shot 3 deer and an elk, the Chief shot a deer, and our hunters killed 4 deer. While I was gone, the wind picked up so much that the boat stayed put all day. Latitude 46° 23' 57" N. I caught a small, unusual whipperwill. We observed enormous herds of goats or antelopes coming down from the northeast side and swimming across the river. The Chief told me those animals winter in the Black Mountains and return to those mountains from all directions in the fall, then spread out in the plains in the spring. The huge herds we see, all on the northeast side of the river, are on their way to the mountain, and in the spring, they will return in just as large numbers (some herds winter on the Missouri). We camped on the left side.
note from the Ricares to the River Jacque near N. E. is about 40 mes. to the Chien a fork of R Rogue 20 passing the Souix River near the Chien this from information of Mr. Graveline who passed through this Countrey
note from the Ricares to the River Jacque near N. E. is about 40 mes. to the Chien a fork of R Rogue 20 passing the Souix River near the Chien this from information of Mr. Graveline who passed through this Countrey
[Clark, October 17, 1804]
17th October Wednesday 1804. Set out early a fine morning the wind from the N W. after brackfast I walked on Shore with the Indian Chief & Interpeters, Saw Buffalow Elk and Great numbers of Goats in large gangues (I am told by Mr. G. that those Animals winter in the Black mountains and this is about the Season they Cross from the East of the Missouris to go to that Mountain, they return in the Spring and pass the Missourie in Great numbers). This Chief tells me of a number of their Treditions about Turtles, Snakes, &. and the power of a perticiler rock or Cave on the next river which informs of everr thing none of those I think worth while mentioning—The wind So hard a head the boats Could not move aftr 10 oClock, Capt Louis Took the altitude of the Sun Laid. 46° 23' 57" I Killed 3 Deer and the hunters with me killed 3 also the Indian Shot one but Could not get it—I Scaffeled up the Deer & returned & met the boat after night on the L. S. about 6 miles above the place we Camped last night—one of the men Saw a number of Snakes, Capt Lewis Saw a large Beaver house S. S. I Cought a Whipprwill Small & not Common-. the leaves are falling fast-. the river wide and full of Sand bars,-. Great numbers of verry large Stone on the Sides of the hills & Some rock of a brownish Colour in the Ld. Bend below this-.
17th October, Wednesday 1804. I set out early on a beautiful morning with the wind coming from the northwest. After breakfast, I walked along the shore with the Indian Chief and interpreters. I saw buffalo, elk, and large numbers of goats in big groups. Mr. G. told me that these animals winter in the Black Mountains, and this is about the time they cross from the east side of the Missouri River to head to that mountain. They return in the spring and cross the Missouri in great numbers. The Chief shared several of their traditions about turtles, snakes, and the power of a particular rock or cave on the nearby river that is said to know everything. I didn’t think any of these stories were worth mentioning. The wind was so strong against us that the boats couldn’t move after 10 o’clock. Captain Lewis took the altitude of the sun, which was 46° 23' 57". I killed 3 deer, and the hunters with me also killed 3, although the Indian shot one but couldn’t retrieve it. I dressed the deer and returned, meeting the boat later that night on the left side about 6 miles above where we camped last night. One of the men saw a number of snakes, and Captain Lewis spotted a large beaver house on the south side. I caught a small, uncommon whip-poor-will. The leaves are falling quickly. The river is wide and filled with sandbars, with a lot of very large stones on the sides of the hills and some rocks of a brownish color in the lower bend below this.
Great numbers of Goats are flocking down to the S. Side of the river on their way to the Black Mountains where they winter those animals return in the Spring in the Same way & Scatter in different directions.
A large number of goats are moving down to the south side of the river on their way to the Black Mountains, where they spend the winter. Those animals return in the spring in the same way and scatter in different directions.
[Clark, October 18, 1804]
18th of October 1804. at 6 miles passed the mouth of La Bullet or Cannon Ball River on the L. Side about 140 yards Wide, and heads near the Black Mountains above the mouth of this River, in and at the foot of the Bluff, and in the water is a number of round Stones, resembling Shells and Cannon balls of Different Sises, and of excellent grit for Grindstons—the Bluff continus for about a mile, The water of this River is confined within 40 yards—we met 2 french men in a Canoe, who informed us they wer trapping near the mandans and were robed of 4 Traps, & part of their Skins and Several other articles by Indians he took to be Mandans those men return with us, Saw emence numbers of Goats all Day S. S. our hunters Kill Sevral passed a large Creek Called Che wah or fish Creek on the S. S. 28 yds. wide, passed a Small Creek at 2 m on the L. S. Camped on the L. S. Saw a no of Buffalow, & in one gangue 248 Elk our hunters Killed 6 Deer & 4 Elk this evening, The Countrey is leavel and fine Some high Short hills, and ridges at a Distance, Bottoms fine and Partially timbered with Cotton wood principally Some ash & Elm.
October 18, 1804. We passed 6 miles from the mouth of La Bullet, or Cannon Ball River, on the left side, which is about 140 yards wide. The river starts near the Black Mountains, above its mouth, and at the base of the bluff. In the water, there are a number of round stones that look like shells and cannonballs of different sizes, which are great for grindstones. The bluff continues for about a mile, and the river's water is confined to within 40 yards. We met two French men in a canoe who told us they were trapping near the Mandans and had four traps, some of their skins, and several other items stolen by Indians they thought were Mandans. Those men returned with us. We saw immense numbers of goats all day on the south side. Our hunters killed several. We passed a large creek called Chewah, or Fish Creek, on the south side, which is 28 yards wide, and we passed a small creek 2 miles later on the left side. We camped on the left side and saw a number of buffalo, and in one group, there were 248 elk. Our hunters killed 6 deer and 4 elk this evening. The land is flat and nice, with some high short hills and ridges in the distance. The bottoms are good and partially wooded with mainly cottonwood, some ash, and elm.
[Clark, October 18, 1804]
18th of October Thursday 1804 Set out early proceeded on at 6 mes. passed the mouth of (1) la Boulet (or Cannon Ball River) about 140 yards wide on the L. S. this river heads in the Court not or Black mountains) (a fine Day) above the mouth of this river Great numbers of Stone perfectly round with fine Grit are in the Bluff and on the Shore, the river takes its name from those Stones which resemble Cannon Balls.—The water of this river is Confined within 40 yards. We met 2 french men in a perogue Desending from hunting, & complained of the Mandans robing them of 4 Traps ther fur & Seeveral othr articles Those men were in the imploy of our Ricaree interpeter Mr. Gravelin they turned & followered us.
18th of October, Thursday, 1804 We set out early and made progress at 6 miles. We passed the mouth of La Boulet (or Cannon Ball River), which is about 140 yards wide on the left side. This river originates in the Court or Black Mountains. It was a fine day. Above the mouth of this river, there are numerous perfectly round stones with fine grit on the bluffs and on the shore. The river gets its name from these stones that look like cannonballs. The water of this river is confined within 40 yards. We met two Frenchmen in a canoe coming back from hunting, and they complained that the Mandans had stolen four traps, their fur, and several other items from them. Those men were employed by our Ricaree interpreter, Mr. Gravelin, and they turned and followed us.
Saw Great numbers of Goats on the S. S. Comeing to the river our hunters Killed 4 of them Some run back and others crossed & prosceed on their journey to the Court Noir, at (3) passed a Small River Called Che wah or fish river on the S. S. this river is about 28 yards wide and heads to the N. E, passed a Small creek on the L. S. 1 mile abov the last, and Camped on a Sand bar on the L. S. opposit to us we Saw a Gangue of Buffalow bulls which we did not think worth while to kill- our hunters Killd. 4 Goats 6 Deer 4 Elk & a pelican & informs that they Saw in one Gang 248 Elk, (I walked on Shore, in the evining with a view to See Some of those remarkable places mentioned by evens, none of which I could find,) The Countrey in this quarter is Generally leavel & fine Some high Short hills, and some ragid ranges of Hills at a Distans
We saw a lot of goats on the south side. When we got to the river, our hunters killed four of them. Some ran back, and others crossed over and continued their journey to the Court Noir. At mile marker three, we passed a small river called Che Wah, or Fish River, on the south side. This river is about 28 yards wide and flows to the northeast. We passed a small creek on the left side, one mile above the last, and camped on a sandbar on the left side. Across from us, we saw a group of buffalo bulls, but we didn't think it was worth killing any. Our hunters killed four goats, six deer, four elk, and a pelican, and they reported seeing a group of 248 elk. I walked along the shore in the evening to look for some of the remarkable places mentioned by Evans, but I couldn't find any of them. The landscape in this area is generally flat and nice, with some short high hills and some rugged ranges of hills in the distance.
The ricara Indians inform us that they find no black tail Deer as high up as this place, those we find are of the fallow Deer Kind
The Ricara Indians tell us that there are no black-tailed deer this high up; the ones we find are of the fallow deer kind.
The Ricareis are not fond of Spiritous liquers, nor do they apper to be fond of receiveing any or thank full for it
The Ricareis don't like spirituous liquors, nor do they seem to appreciate receiving any or be thankful for it.
[Clark, October 19, 1804]
19th of October Friday 1804. Set out early under a gentle Breeze from the S. E. more timber than Common in the bottoms passed a large Pond on the S. S. I walked out on the high land L. Side and observed great numbers of Buffalows, I counted in view at one time 52 gangues of Buffalow & 3 of Elk, besides Deer & goats &c. all the Streems falling from the hills or high lands So brackish that the water Can't be Drank without effecting the person making use of it as Globesalts-, I saw in my walk Several remarkable high Conocal hills, one 90 feet, one 60 and others Smaller-the Indian Chief Say that the Callemet Bird live in the hollows of those hills, which holes are made by the water passing from the top & &. I also Saw an old Village fortified Situated on the top of a high Point, which the Ricarra Chief tels me were Mandans, we Camped on the L. S. I Killed a Deer & Saw Swans &c. our hunters Killed 4 Elk and 6 Deer to Day
October 19th, Friday, 1804. We set out early with a light breeze from the southeast, and there was more timber than usual in the low areas. We passed a large pond to the south-southeast. I walked out onto the high ground on the left side and noticed a large number of buffalo; I counted 52 herds of buffalo and 3 herds of elk, along with deer and goats, etc. All the streams coming from the hills or higher land were so salty that the water couldn’t be drunk without causing issues, like taking salt tablets. Along my walk, I saw several notably tall conical hills, one 90 feet high, one 60 feet, and others smaller. The Indian chief told me that the calamitous bird lives in the hollows of those hills, which were formed by water flowing from the top. I also saw an old fortified village situated on a high point, which the Ricarra chief said belonged to the Mandans. We camped on the left side. I killed a deer and saw swans, etc. Our hunters killed 4 elk and 6 deer today.
[Clark, October 19, 1804]
19th October Friday 1804 a fine morning wind from the S. E. we Set out early under a gentle Breeze and proceeded on verry well, more timber than Common on the banks on this part of the river—passed a large Pond on the S. S.—I walked out on the Hills & observed Great numbers of Buffalow feedeing on both Sides of the river I counted 52 Gangues of Buffalow & 3 of Elk at one view, all the runs which come from the high hills which is Generally about one or 2 miles from the water is brackish and near the Hills (the Salts are) and the Sides of the Hills & edges of the Streems, the mineral salts appear I saw Som remarkable round hills forming a Cone at top one about 90 foot one 60 & Several others Smaller, the Indian Chief Say that the Callemet bird live in the holes of those hills, the holes form by the water washing thro Some parts in its passage Down from the top—near one of those noles, on a point of a hill 90 feet above the lower plane I observed the remains of an old village, which had been fortified, the Indian Chief with us tels me, a party of Mandins lived there, Here first saw ruins of Mandan nation we proceeded on & Camped on the L. S. opposit the upper of those Conocal hills our hunters killed 4 Elk 6 Deer & a pelican, I saw Swans in a Pond & Killed a fat Deer in my walk, Saw above 10 wolves. This day is pleasent
19th October, Friday, 1804 - It was a nice morning with a breeze coming from the southeast. We set out early, enjoying a gentle wind, and made good progress. There was more timber along the banks than usual in this part of the river. We passed a large pond on the south side. I walked up into the hills and noticed a large number of buffalo feeding on both sides of the river. I counted 52 groups of buffalo and 3 groups of elk at one time. All the streams coming from the high hills, generally about one or two miles from the water, are brackish near the hills, where the minerals are. The sides of the hills and the edges of the streams exhibited mineral salts. I saw some remarkable round hills that were cone-shaped at the top—one about 90 feet, one 60 feet, and several smaller ones. The Indian chief with us says that the calamit bird makes its home in the holes of those hills, which were formed by water eroding some parts as it flows down from the top. Near one of those holes, on a point of a hill 90 feet above the lower plain, I observed the remains of an old village that had been fortified. The Indian chief tells me that a group of Mandans lived there. This is the first time I saw ruins of the Mandan nation. We continued on and set up camp on the left side, opposite the upper of those conical hills. Our hunters killed 4 elk, 6 deer, and a pelican. I spotted swans in a pond and shot a fat deer during my walk, and I saw over 10 wolves. Overall, it was a pleasant day.
[Clark, October 20, 1804]
20th of October 1804 wind from the S E, I walked out to view those remarkable places pointed out by Evens, and continud all day Saw an old Village of the Mandans below the Chess chi ter R. appear to have been fortified above the village on the Same L. S. is a coal bank where we Campd. passed a Small Creek on the S. S. and an Island on the L. S Covered with willows Small Cotton the Countrey thro which I passed this day is Delightfull, Timber in the bottoms, Saw great nos. of Buffalow Elk Goats & Deer as we were in want of them I Killed 3 Deer, our hunters 10 Deer and wounded a white Bear, I Saw Several fresh tracks of that animal double the Sise of the largest track I ever Saw, great numbers of wolves, those animals follow the buffalow and devour, those that die or are Killed, and those too fat or pore to Keep up with the gangue
20th of October 1804, wind from the southeast. I went out to check out the remarkable places Evens pointed out and continued all day. I saw an old Mandan village below the Cheshichiter River, which seemed to have been fortified. Above the village on the same side, there’s a coal bank where we camped. We passed a small creek on the south side and an island on the left side covered with willows and small cottonwoods. The countryside I went through today is delightful, with timber in the low areas. I saw a great number of buffalo, elk, goats, and deer. Since we needed them, I killed 3 deer, our hunters got 10 deer, and wounded a white bear. I saw several fresh tracks of that animal, twice the size of the largest tracks I've ever seen, and there were many wolves. These animals follow the buffalo and eat those that die or are killed, as well as those too fat or poor to keep up with the herd.
[Clark, October 20, 1804]
20th of October Satterday 1804 Set out early this morning and proceeded on the wind from the S. E after brackfast I walked out on the L. Side to See those remarkable places pointed out by Evins, I saw an old remains of a villige on the Side of a hill which the Chief with us Too ne tels me that nation lived in a number villages on each Side of the river and the Troubleson Seauex caused them to move about 40 miles higher up where they remained a fiew years & moved to the place they now live, (2) passed a Small Creek on the S. S. (3) and one on the L. S. passed (4) a Island Covered with willows laying in the middle of the river no current on the L. S. Camped on the L. S. above a Bluff containing Coal (5) of an inferior quallity, this bank is imedeately above the old village of the Mandans- The Countrey is fine, the high hills at a Distanc with gradual assents, I Kild 3 Deer The Timber Confined to the bottoms as usial which is much larger than below. Great numbers of Buffalow Elk & Deer, Goats. our hunters killed 10 Deer & a Goat to day and wounded a white Bear I saw Several fresh track of those animals which is 3 times as large as a mans track-, The wind hard all Day from the N. E. & East, great numbers of buffalow Swiming the river
20th of October, Saturday, 1804 We set out early this morning, moving with the southeast wind. After breakfast, I walked out on the left side to see those remarkable places Evins mentioned. I spotted the ruins of an old village on the side of a hill. The chief accompanying us, Too ne, told me that this nation lived in several villages on both sides of the river, but the Troublesome Sioux forced them to relocate about 40 miles upstream, where they stayed for a few years before moving to their current location. (2) We passed a small creek on the south side. (3) Then we passed another one on the left side. (4) We noticed an island covered with willows in the middle of the river, where there was no current on the left side. We camped on the left side above a bluff with coal (5) of inferior quality. This bank is right above the old village of the Mandans. The country is beautiful, with high hills in the distance and gentle slopes. I killed three deer. The timber is limited to the bottoms, which is much larger than below. There were great numbers of buffalo, elk, deer, and goats. Our hunters took down 10 deer and a goat today and wounded a grizzly bear. I saw several fresh tracks of these animals, which are three times as large as a man's track. The wind was strong all day from the northeast and east, with many buffalo swimming across the river.
I observe near all large gangues of buffalow wolves and when the buffalow move those Anamals follow and feed on those that are killed by accident or those that are too pore or fat to Keep up with the gangue.
I watch most large packs of buffalo wolves, and when the buffalo move, those animals follow and feed on those that are killed by accident or those that are too weak or fat to keep up with the pack.
[Lewis, October 20, 1804]
20th October Peter Crusat this day shot at a white bear he wounded him, but being alarmed at the formidable appearance of the bear he left his tomahalk and gun; but shortly after returned and found that the bear had taken the oposite rout.—soon after he shot a buffaloe cow broke her thy, the cow pursued him he concealed himself in a small raviene.-
20th October, Peter Crusat shot at a white bear and wounded it. However, he got scared by the bear's intimidating look, so he left his tomahawk and gun behind. He returned shortly after and discovered that the bear had gone the other way. Soon after, he shot a buffalo cow, injuring her thigh. The cow chased him, and he hid in a small ravine.
[Clark, October 21, 1804]
21t of October Sunday 1804 a verry Cold night wind hard from the N. E. Some rain in the night which feesed as it fell, at Day began to Snow and Continued all the fore part of the day, at 1/4 of a mile passed the Mouth of Chess-che tar (or Heart) River L. S. 38 yards wide, this river heads near Turtle mountain with Knife River on this River is a Smothe Stone which the Indians have great fath in & Consult the Stone on all great occasions which they Say Marks or Simblems are left on the Stone of what is to take place &c. an old mandan Village above the mouth of this Little River, I saw a Single tree in the open Plains which the Mandans formerly paid great Devotion to run Cords thro their flesh & tie themselves to the tree to make them brave, passed an old Village on a Small run on the S S. one on the bank L. and Camped, I Killed a fat Buffalow this evening—Little gun all my hunting
On October 21st, Sunday, 1804, it was a very cold night with a strong wind from the northeast. There was some rain during the night that froze as it fell. In the morning, it began to snow and continued to snow for most of the day. After a quarter of a mile, we passed the mouth of the Chess-che tar (or Heart) River, which is 38 yards wide. This river originates near Turtle Mountain and connects with Knife River. There’s a smooth stone on this river that the Indians have a lot of faith in; they consult it during significant events. They believe the stone has markings or symbols that indicate what will happen next. I noticed an old Mandan village above the mouth of this little river. In the open plains, I saw a single tree that the Mandans used to venerate greatly. They would run cords through their flesh and tie themselves to the tree to gain bravery. We passed an old village by a small stream on the south side and settled on the bank on the left. I killed a fat buffalo this evening with my little gun while hunting.
[Clark, October 21, 1804]
21st October Sunday 1804 a verry Cold night wind hard from the N. E Some rain in the night which frosed up it fell at Day light it began to Snow and Continud all the fore part of the Day passed just above our Camp (1) a Small river on the L. S. Called by the Indians Chiss-Cho-tar this river is about 38 yards wide Containing a good Deel of water Some Distance up this River is Situated a Stone which the Indians have great fath in & Say they See painted on the Stone, "all the Calemites & good fortune to hapin the nation & partes who visit it"—a tree (an oak) which Stands alone near this place about 2 miles off in the open prarie which has with Stood the fire they pay Great respect to, make Holes and tie Strings thro the Skins of their necks and around this tree to make them brave (all this is the information of Too ne is a whipper will) the Chief of the Ricares who accompanied us to the Mandins, at 2 miles (2) passed the 2nd Villages of the Manden, which was in existance at the Same time with the 1st this village is at the foot of a hill on the S. S. on a butifull &extensive plain—at this time Covered with Buffalow—a Cloudy afternoon, I killed a fine Buffalow, we Camped on the L. S. verry Cold ground Covered with Snow. one orter KIM.
21st October, Sunday, 1804. It was a very cold night with a strong wind coming from the northeast. There was some rain during the night that froze, and at daylight, it started to snow, continuing for most of the day. Just above our camp, there was a small river on the left side called Chiss-Cho-tar by the Indians. This river is about 38 yards wide and has a good amount of water. Some distance up the river is a stone that the Indians have great faith in; they say they see painted on the stone, "all the calamities & good fortune to happen to the nation & parts who visit it." There's also a tree (an oak) standing alone about 2 miles away in the open prairie that has survived fires, and they hold it in high regard. They make holes and tie strings through the skins around their necks and around this tree to make themselves brave (all this information comes from Too ne, a whippoorwill), the chief of the Ricares who traveled with us to the Mandins. At 2 miles, we passed the second village of the Mandins, which existed at the same time as the first. This village sits at the foot of a hill on the south side, in a beautiful and extensive plain—at this time covered with buffalo. It was a cloudy afternoon when I killed a fine buffalo. We camped on the left side, on very cold ground covered with snow. One other... KIM.
[Clark, October 22, 1804]
22nd of October 1804 last night at about 1 oClock I was violently attacked with Rhumetism in my neck, which was so violently I could not move, Cap L. applied a hot Stone raped in flannel which gave temperry ease, we passed a War party of Tetons on their way as we Supposed to the Mandans of 12 men on the L. S. we gave them nothing and refused to put them across the river, passed 2 old Villages at the mouth of a large Creek L. S and a Small Island at the head of which is a bad place, an old Village on the S. S. and the upper of the 6 Villages the Mandans occupied about 25 years ago this village was entirely cut off by the Sioux & one of the others nearly, the Small Pox distroyed great Numbers
22nd of October 1804 Last night at about 1 o'clock, I had a severe attack of rheumatism in my neck, which was so intense that I couldn’t move. Cap L. used a hot stone wrapped in flannel, which provided temporary relief. We came across a group of 12 Tetons heading, as we assumed, to the Mandans on the left side. We didn’t give them anything and refused to help them cross the river. We passed by two old villages at the mouth of a large creek on the left side and a small island at the head, where there’s a dangerous spot. There was an old village on the south side and the upper part of the six villages that the Mandans occupied about 25 years ago. This village was completely cut off by the Sioux, and one of the others was almost entirely lost; the smallpox wiped out a large number of people.
[Clark, October 22, 1804]
22nd October Monday 1804 last night at 1 oClock I was violently and Suddinly attacked with the Rhumitism in the neck which was So violent I could not move Capt. applied a hot Stone raped in flannel, which gave me some temporry ease,-. we Set out early, the morning Cold at 7 oClock we Came too at a Camp of Teton Seaux on the L. S. those people 12 in number were naikd and had the appearanc of war, we have every reason to believ that they are going or have been to Steel horses from the Mandins, they tell two Stories, we gave them nothing after takeing brackfast proceeded on—my Neck is yet verry painfull at times Spasms.
October 22, Monday, 1804. Last night at 1 o'clock, I was suddenly and violently struck with rheumatism in my neck, so severe that I couldn’t move. The captain applied a hot stone wrapped in flannel, which provided me with some temporary relief. We set out early; it was cold in the morning. At 7 o'clock, we arrived at a camp of Teton Sioux on the left side. There were twelve of them, naked and looking like they were preparing for war. We have every reason to believe they are either going to or have already stolen horses from the Mandans. They told us two different stories. We didn’t give them anything after breakfast and continued on. My neck is still very painful at times with spasms.
Camped on the L Side, passed an Island Situated on the L. Side at the head of which & Mandans village S. S. we passd a bad place—The hunters killed a buffalow bull, they Say out of about 300 buffalow which they Saw, they did not See one Cow. Great Deel of Beaver Sign. Several Cought every night.
Camped on the left side, we passed an island on the left side where there’s a Mandan village nearby. We went through a rough spot— the hunters killed a male buffalo; they said they saw around 300 buffalo, but not a single cow. There were a lot of beaver signs, and several were caught every night.
[Clark, October 23, 1804]
23rd of October 1804 Some Snow, passed 5 Lodges fortified the place the two french men were robed Those are the hunting Camps of the mandans, who has latterly left them. we camped on the L. S.
23rd of October 1804 Some Snow, passed 5 Lodges that fortified the area where the two French men were robbed. Those are the hunting camps of the Mandans, who have recently left them. We camped on the L. S.
[Clark, October 23, 1804]
23rd of October Tuesday 1804 a cloudy morning Some Snow Set out early pass five Lodges which was Diserted, the fires yet burning we Suppose those were the Indians who robed the 2 french Trappers a fiew days ago those 2 men are now with us going up with a view to get their property from the Indians thro us. cold & Cloudy camped on The L. S. of the river
23rd of October, Tuesday, 1804 - It was a cloudy morning with some snow. We set out early and passed five deserted lodges, with the fires still burning. We assume those belonged to the Indians who robbed the two French trappers a few days ago. Those two men are now with us, hoping to retrieve their property from the Indians through us. It was cold and cloudy, and we camped on the left side of the river.
[Clark, October 24, 1804]
24th of October Cloudy Some little Snow (my Rhumetism Continue, not So bad as the 2 last days,) a butufull Countrey on both Sides, bottoms covered with wood, we See no game to day, passed an old village of a Band of Me ne tarres Called Mah har ha where they lived 40 year ago on the L. S. Came too on an Island Caused by the river cutting through a narrow point 7 years ago, on this Island we wer visited by the grand Chief of the mandans a 2d Chief and Some other, who wer Camped on the Island, those Chief met our Ricarra Chief with great Corduallity, & Smoked together Cap Lewis Visited the Camps 5 Lodges, and proceeded on & Camped near a 2d Camp of Mandans on the S. S. nearly opposit the old Ricara & Manden Village which the Ricarras abandaned in the year 1789
24th of October Cloudy with a little snow (my rheumatism continues, but it’s not as bad as the last two days). It’s a beautiful countryside on both sides, with bottoms covered in woods. We didn't see any game today. We passed an old village of a band of men called Mah har ha, where they lived 40 years ago on the left side of the river. We stopped on an island created by the river cutting through a narrow point 7 years ago. On this island, we were visited by the grand chief of the Mandans, a second chief, and some others who were camped there. Those chiefs greeted our Ricara chief warmly and smoked together. Captain Lewis visited the five lodges at the camps and then moved on, camping near a second Mandan camp on the south side, almost opposite the old Ricara and Mandan village that the Ricarras abandoned in 1789.
[Clark, October 24, 1804] 24th October Wednesday 1804 Set out early a Cloudy day Some little Snow in the morning I am Something better of the Rhumutim in my neck—a butifull Countrey on both Sides of the river. The bottoms Covd. with wood, we have Seen no game on the river to day a prof of the Indians hunting in the neighbourhod (1) passed a Island on the S. S. made by the river Cutting through a point, by which the river is Shortened Several miles—on this Isld. we Saw one of the Grand Chiefs of the Mandins, with five Lodges hunting, this Cheif met the Chief of the Ricares who accompanied us with great Cordiallity & Sermony Smoked the pipe & Capt. Lewis with the Interpeter went with the Chiefs to his Lodges at 1 mile distant, after his return we admited the Grand Chief & his brother for a few minits on our boat. proceeded on a Short distance and Camped on the S. S. below the old Village of the Mandins & ricares.—Soon after our landg. 4 Mandins Came from a Camp above, the Ricares Chief went with them to their Camp, 25th of October Thursday 1804. a Gentle Breeze from the S. E by E passed an (1) old Village on a high Plain where the Mandans onced lived & after they left the Village & moved higher the Ricaras took possession & live until 1799 when they abandoned it & flew from the just revenge of the Mandans, a verry extensive Bottom above the Village above the Center of which (2) the Mandans lived in the 2 villages on the L. 5., but little timber- Several parties of Indians on each Side of the River going up. in view in every directions—we are informed that the Sioux has latterly taken horses from the Big Bellies or Minitaries and on their way homerwards they fell in with the Assinniboins who killed them and took the horses & a frenchman Menard who resided with the Mandan for 20 years past was Killed a fiew days ago on his way from the Britishment astablishments on the Assineboin River, 150 miles N. of this place to the mandans by the assinniboin Indians—we were frequently Called to by parties of Indians & requested to land & talk, passed a verry bad place & Camped on a Point S S. opposit a high hill Several Indians visit us this evening the Sun of the late great Chief of the Mandans who had 2 of his fingers off and appeared to be pearced in maney places on inquiring the reason, was informed that it was a testimony to their grief for Deceased freinds, they frequently Cut off Sevral fingers & pierced themselves in Different parts, a Mark of Savage effection, wind hard from the S. W. verry Cold R Fields with a Rhumitisum in his Neck one man R. in his hips my Self much better, Those Indians appear to have Similar Customs with the Ricaras, their Dress the Same more mild in their language & justures &c. &c.
[Clark, October 24, 1804] 24th October Wednesday 1804 We set out early on a cloudy day with some light snow in the morning. I'm feeling a bit better with the rheumatism in my neck—a beautiful country on both sides of the river. The bottoms are covered with woods, but we haven't seen any game on the river today. There are signs of the Indians hunting nearby. We passed an island on the south side made by the river cutting through a point, which shortens the river by several miles. On this island, we saw one of the Grand Chiefs of the Mandans with five lodges hunting. This chief met the chief of the Ricara, who joined us, with great cordiality and formality. They smoked the pipe, and Capt. Lewis went with the chiefs to his lodges about a mile away with the interpreter. After his return, we admitted the Grand Chief and his brother on our boat for a few minutes. We proceeded a short distance and camped on the south side below the old village of the Mandans and Ricara. Soon after we landed, four Mandans came from a camp above, and the Ricara chief went with them to their camp. 25th of October Thursday 1804. There was a gentle breeze from the southeast by east as we passed an old village on a high plain where the Mandans once lived. After they left the village and moved to higher ground, the Ricara took possession and lived there until 1799 when they abandoned it and fled from the just revenge of the Mandans. There’s a very extensive bottom above the village, and in the center of it, the Mandans lived in two villages on the left side, but there is little timber. Several parties of Indians were visible on both sides of the river, heading upstream in different directions. We were informed that the Sioux recently took horses from the Big Bellies or Minnitaries, and on their way home, they ran into the Assiniboins, who killed them and took the horses. A Frenchman named Menard, who had lived with the Mandans for the past 20 years, was killed a few days ago on his way from the British establishments on the Assiniboine River, 150 miles north of here, by the Assiniboine Indians. We were frequently called to by groups of Indians who requested us to land and talk. We passed a very bad place and camped on a point on the south side opposite a high hill. Several Indians visited us this evening, including the son of a recently deceased great chief of the Mandans, who had two fingers missing and appeared to have piercings in many places. When I inquired about this, I was told it was a sign of their grief for deceased friends. They often cut off several fingers and pierce themselves in different parts as a mark of deep affection. The wind was blowing hard from the southwest and it was very cold. R. Fields had rheumatism in his neck, one man had it in his hips, and I'm feeling much better. These Indians appear to have similar customs to the Ricara, their dress is the same, and they are milder in their language and gestures, etc.
[Clark, October 25, 1804]
25th of October Thursday 1804 a Cold morning Set out early under a gentle Breeze from the S. E. by E proceeded on, passed (1) the 3rd old Village of the Mandans which has been Desd. for many years, This village was Situated on an eminance of about 40 foot above the water on the L. S. back for Several miles is a butifull plain (2) at a Short distance above this old village on a Continuation of the Same eminance was Situated the which have been avacuated only Six years, above this village a large and extensive bottom for Several miles in which the Squars raised ther Corn, but little timber near the villages, on the S. S. below is a point of excellent timber, and in the point Several miles above is fine timber, Several parties of Mandins rode to the river on the S. S. to view us indeed they are continuelly in Sight Satisying their Curiossities as to our apperance &c. we are told that the Seaux has latterly fallen in with & Stole the horses of the Big belley, on their way home they fell in with the Ossiniboin who killed them and took the horses—a frenchman has latterly been killed by the Indians on the Track to the tradeing establishment on the Ossinebine R. in the North of this place (or British fort) This frenchman has lived many years with the Mandins—we were frequently called on to land & talk to parties of the Mandins on the Shore, wind Shifted to the S. W at about 11 oClock and blew hard untill 3 OCk. clouded up river full of Sand bars & we are at a great loss to find the Channel of the river, frequently run on the Sand bars which Detain us much passed a verry bad riffle of rocks in the evining by takeing the L. S. of a Sand bar and Camped on a Sand point on the S. S. opposit a high hill on the L. S. Several Indians Come to See us this evening, amongst others the Sun of the late great Cheif of the Mandins, this man has his two little fingers off-; on inqureing the Cause, was told it was Customary for this nation to Show their greaf by Some testimony of pain, and that it was not uncommon for them to take off 2 Smaller fingers of the hand and Some times more with ther marks of Savage effection
25th of October, Thursday, 1804. It was a cold morning. We set out early under a gentle breeze from the southeast. We proceeded on and passed the third old village of the Mandans, which has been deserted for many years. This village was located on a rise about 40 feet above the water. Along the left side, for several miles, there is a beautiful plain. A short distance above this old village, continuing on the same rise, was another village that had been abandoned only six years ago. Above this village, there is a large and extensive bottomland for several miles where the women raised their corn. There is little timber near the villages; however, below on the south side is a point with excellent timber, and several miles above is also fine timber. Several groups of Mandans rode to the river on the south side to view us; they are continuously in sight, satisfying their curiosity about our appearance, etc. We were told that the Sioux recently captured and stole the horses of the Big Belly. On their way home, they encountered the Assiniboine, who killed them and took the horses. A Frenchman was recently killed by the Indians along the route to the trading post on the Assiniboine River, north of this location (or British fort). This Frenchman had lived many years with the Mandans. We were often called to land and talk to groups of Mandans on the shore. The wind shifted to the southwest at about 11:00 and blew hard until 3:00. The river became full of sandbars, and we had a hard time finding the channel, frequently running aground on the sandbars, which delayed us. We passed a very bad riffle of rocks in the evening by taking the left side of a sandbar and camped on a sand point on the south side, opposite a high hill on the left side. Several Indians came to see us that evening, including the son of the late great chief of the Mandans. This man was missing two little fingers. When we asked about it, we were told that it was customary for this nation to show their grief through some sort of physical pain, and that it was not uncommon for them to remove two smaller fingers from the hand, and sometimes more, as a mark of savage affection.
The wind blew verry hard this evening from the S. W. verry Cold
R. Fields with the rhumitim in his neck, P. Crusat with the Same Complaint in his Legs—the party other wise is well, as to my Self I feel but Slight Simptoms of that disorder at this time,
R. Fields has rheumatism in his neck, P. Crusat has the same issue in his legs—the rest of the group is fine, and as for me, I only feel minor symptoms of that illness right now.
[Clark, October 26, 1804]
26th of October 1804 wind from the S. E we Set the Ricara Chief on Shore with Some Mandans, many on each Side veiwing of us, we took in 2 Chiefs (Coal and Big Man) and halted a feiw minits at their Camps, on the L. S. fortified in their way, here we Saw a trader from the Ossinniboin River Called McCracken, this man arrived 9 day ago with goods to trade for horses & Roabs one other man with him—we Camped on the L. Side a Short distanc below the r st rnandan village on the L. S. many men women & Children flocked down to See us—Capt Lewis walked to the Village with the Chief and interpeters, my Rheumitism increasing prevented me from going also, and we had Deturmined that both would not leave the boat at the Same time untill we Knew the Desposition of the Nativs, Some Chieef visited me & I Smoked with them—they appeared delighted with the Steel Mill which we were obliged to use, also with my black Servent, Capt Lewis returned late
26th of October 1804, wind from the southeast. We set the Ricara chief ashore with some Mandans, many on each side watching us. We took in 2 chiefs (Coal and Big Man) and stopped for a few minutes at their camps on the left side, fortified in their way. Here we saw a trader from the Osinniboin River named McCracken; he arrived 9 days ago with goods to trade for horses and robes, along with one other man. We camped on the left side a short distance below the rest of the Mandan village on the left side. Many men, women, and children gathered to see us. Captain Lewis walked to the village with the chief and interpreters. My rheumatism was getting worse, which kept me from going, and we had decided that both of us would not leave the boat at the same time until we knew the disposition of the natives. Some chiefs visited me, and I smoked with them—they seemed delighted with the steel mill we had to use, as well as with my Black servant. Captain Lewis returned late.
[Clark, October 26, 1804]
26th of October Friday 1804 Set out early wind from the S W proceeded on Saw numbers of the Mandins on Shore, we Set the Ricare Chief on Shore, and we proceeded on to the Camp of two of their Grand Chiefs where we delayed a fiew minits, with the Chiefs and proceeded on takeing two of their Chiefs on board & Some of the heavy articles of his house hole, Such as earthen pots & Corn, proceeded on, at this Camp Saw a McCracken Englishmon from the N. W Company this mana Came nine Days ago to trade for horses & Buffalo robes,—one other man Came with him. the Indians Continued on the banks all day—but little wood on this part of the river, many Sand bars and bad places, water much devided between them
26th of October, Friday, 1804. We set out early with a wind from the southwest. We saw several Mandins on shore and dropped off the Ricare Chief. We then headed to the camp of two of their Grand Chiefs, where we paused for a few minutes with the Chiefs before moving on. We took two of their Chiefs on board, along with some heavy items from his house, such as clay pots and corn. At this camp, we encountered McCracken, an Englishman from the Northwest Company. He had come nine days ago to trade for horses and buffalo robes, along with one other man. The Indians stayed along the banks all day, but there was little wood in this section of the river, many sandbars, and poor spots, with the water divided among them.
for the 26th. Octr. we came too and Camped on the L. S. about 1/2 a mile below the ist. Manddin Town on the L. S. Soon after our arrival many men womin & Children flocked down to See us, Capt Lewis walked to the village with the principal Chiefs and our interpters, my rhumatic Complaint increasing I could not go—if I was well only one would have left the Boat & party untill we new the Disposition of the Inds. I Smoked with the Cheifs who Came after. Those people apd much pleased with the Corn mill which we were obliged to use, & was fixed in the boat.
On October 26th, we stopped and set up camp on the left side, about half a mile below the first Mandan town on the left side. Soon after we arrived, many men, women, and children came down to see us. Captain Lewis walked to the village with the main chiefs and our interpreters, but I couldn’t go because my rheumatic pain was getting worse. If I had felt better, only one person would have left the boat and the group until we understood the locals’ attitude. I smoked with the chiefs who came afterward. The people were quite impressed with the corn mill that we had to use, which was set up on the boat.
[Clark, October 27, 1804]
27th of October Satturday 1804 we Set out early and Came too at the village on the L. S. where we delayed a few minits, I walked to a Chiefs Logg & Smoked with them, but Could not eat, which did displease them a little, here I met with a Mr. Jessomme, who lived in this nation 13 years, I got him to interpet & he proceedd on with us we proceeded on to a Centeral point opposit the Knife River, & formed a Camp on the S. S. above the 2d Mandan village & opsd. the Mah-har-ha village—and raised a flag Staff—Capt Lewis & the Intepeters walked down to the 2d Village of Mandans, & returned in about an hour, we Sent 3 Carrotes of tobacco to the other villages & enviting them to come down and Council with us tomorrow,—we endeaver to precure Some Knowledge of the principal Chiefs of the Different nations &.—well to give my ideas as to the impression thais man makes on me is a Cunin artfull an insoncear—he tels me he was once empld. by my brother in the Illinois & of his description I conceve as a Spye upon the British of Michillinicknac & St Joseph,s we think he may be made use full to us & do employ him as an interpeter—no. of Indians bring their wives &c. to the campes of our party on Shore &c.
27th of October, Saturday, 1804, we set out early and stopped at the village on the left side, where we lingered for a few minutes. I went to a chief's lodge and smoked with them, but I couldn't eat, which upset them a little. Here, I met a Mr. Jessomme, who had lived in this nation for 13 years. I got him to interpret, and he continued on with us. We moved on to a central point opposite Knife River and set up camp on the south side, just above the second Mandan village and opposite the Mah-har-ha village—and we raised a flag staff. Captain Lewis and the interpreters walked down to the second Mandan village and returned in about an hour. We sent three barrels of tobacco to the other villages, inviting them to come down and meet with us tomorrow. We tried to gather some information about the main chiefs of the different nations. As for my impressions of this man, he seems cunning, artful, and insincere. He tells me he was once employed by my brother in Illinois, and from his description, I suspect he was a spy for the British at Michilimackinac and St. Joseph’s. We think he might be useful to us and decide to employ him as an interpreter. A number of Indians brought their wives and others to the camps of our party on shore.
[Clark, October 27, 1804]
27th of October Satturday 1804 we Set out arly Came too at this Village on the L. S. this village is Situated on an eminance of about 50 feet above the Water in a handson Plain it Containes houses in a kind of Picket work. the houses are round and Verry large Containing Several families, as also their horses which is tied on one Side of the enterance, a Discription of those houses will be given hereafter, I walked up & Smoked a pipe with the Cheifs of this Village they were anxious that I would Stay and eat with them, my indisposition provented my eating which displeased them, untill a full explination took place, I returned to the boat and Sent 2 Carrots of Tobacco for them to Smoke, and proceeded on, passed the 2d Village and Camped opsd. the Village of the Weter Soon or ah wah bar ways which is Situated on an eminance in a plain on the L. S. this Village is Small and Contains but fiew inhabitents. above this village & also above the Knife river on the Same Side of the Missouri the Big bellies Towns are Situated a further Discription will be given here after as also of the Town of Mandans on this Side of the river i e S. Side
On the 27th of October, Saturday 1804, we set out early and stopped at this village on the left side. This village is situated on an elevation of about 50 feet above the water in a beautiful plain. It has houses arranged like picket fences. The houses are round and quite large, housing several families, along with their horses, which are tied on one side of the entrance. A description of these houses will be provided later. I walked up and smoked a pipe with the chiefs of this village. They were eager for me to stay and eat with them, but my sickness prevented me from eating, which upset them until I explained the situation. I returned to the boat and sent two carrots of tobacco for them to smoke and then continued on, passed the second village, and camped opposite the village of Weter Soon or Ah Wah Bar Ways, which is located on a hill in a plain on the left side. This village is small and has very few inhabitants. Above this village, and also above Knife River on the same side of the Missouri, are the Big Bellies towns. A further description will be given later, as well as about the town of Mandans on this side of the river, i.e., the south side.
a fine worm Day we met with a french man by the name of jassamme which we imploy as an interpeter This man has a wife & Children in the Village—Great numbers on both Sides flocked down to the bank to view us as wee passed.
A nice day, we met a Frenchman named Jassamme, whom we hired as an interpreter. This man has a wife and children in the village. Many people from both sides gathered on the bank to watch us as we passed.
Capt. Lewis with the Interpetr. walked down to the village below our Camp After delaying one hour he returned and informed me the Indians had returned to their village &c., &c., we Sent three Carrots of Tobacco by three young men, to the three Villages above inviting them to come Down & Council with us tomorrow. many Indians Came to view us Some Stayed all night in the Camp of our party—we procured Some information of Mr. Jessomme of the Chiefs of the Different Nations
Capt. Lewis, along with the interpreter, walked down to the village below our camp. After waiting for an hour, he came back and told me that the Indians had returned to their village. We sent three bundles of tobacco with three young men to the three villages upstream, inviting them to come down and meet with us tomorrow. Many Indians came to see us, and some stayed overnight in our camp. We gathered some information about Mr. Jessomme, one of the chiefs of the different nations.
[Clark, October 28, 1804]
28th of October 1804 the wind So hard from the S. W. We could not meet the Indians in Councils, those who visited us we Sent to the nearest village, Consulted the Black Cat M Chief about the Chiefs of the Different Villages, who gave his Oppinion to us.
28th of October 1804, the wind was blowing fiercely from the southwest. We couldn’t meet with the Indians for councils. Those who came to see us were sent to the nearest village. We consulted Chief Black Cat about the leaders of the different villages, who shared his opinion with us.
[Clark, October 28, 1804]
Sunday 28th of October 1804 a windey Day, fair and Clear many of the Grosvantres (or Big Bellies) and Watersons Came to See us and hear the Council the wind being So violently hard from the S. W. provented our going into Councel, (indeed the Chiefs of the Manodans from the lower Village Could not Cross, we made up the presents and entertained Several of the Curious Cheifs whome, wished to See the Boat which was verry Curious to them viewing it as great medison, as they also viewed my black Servent The Black Cat Grand Chief of the Mandans, Capt Lewis & my Self with an Interpeter walked up the river about 11/2 miles our views were to examine the Situation & Timbers for a fort, we found the Situation good but the Timber Scerce, or at least Small timbr Such as would answer us-, we Cunsulted the Grand Chief in respect to the other Chiefs of the Defferent Villages he gave the names of 12—George Drewyer Cought 2 Beaver above our Camp last night, we had Several presents from the Woman of Corn boild homney, Soft Corn &c. &c. I prosent ajar to the Chiefs wife who recved it with much pleasure our men verry Chearfull this evening—we Sent the Cheifs of the Gross Vantres to Smoke a pipe with the Grand Chef of the Mandins in his Village, & told them we would Speek tomorrow.
Sunday, October 28th, 1804, was a windy day, fair and clear. Many of the Grosventres (or Big Bellies) and Watersons came to see us and hear the council. The strong wind from the southwest prevented us from holding the council, as the chiefs of the Mandans from the lower village couldn't cross. We prepared gifts and entertained several of the curious chiefs who wanted to see the boat, which was quite fascinating to them, as they viewed it as great medicine; they also looked at my Black servant. The Black Cat, Grand Chief of the Mandans, Captain Lewis, and I, along with an interpreter, walked up the river about 1.5 miles. Our goal was to examine the location and timber for a fort. We found the location good, but timber was scarce, or at least, the timber was small, which wouldn't be suitable for us. We consulted the Grand Chief about the other chiefs from different villages. He provided the names of 12. George Drewyer caught two beavers above our camp last night. We received several presents from the women, including boiled corn, sweet corn, etc. I presented a jar to the chief's wife, who received it with much pleasure. Our men were very cheerful this evening. We sent the chiefs of the Grosventres to smoke a pipe with the Grand Chief of the Mandans in his village and told them we would talk tomorrow.
[Clark, October 29, 1804]
29th of October 1804 a fine morning after Brackfast we were Visited by the Old Chief of the Big Bellies or me ne tar res, this Man has Given his power to his Son who is now on a war party against the Snake Indians who inhabit the Rockey Mountains, the S W wind verry high—we met in Council under an orning and our Sales Stretched round to keep out as much wind as possible & Delivered a long Speach Similar to what had been Said to the nations below, the old Chief was restless before the Speech was half ended, observed his Camp was exposed & could wait no longer &c. at the Conclusion of the Speach we mentioned the Ricaras & requested them to make a peace & Smoke out of the Sacred Stem with their Chief which I intreduced and gave him the pipe of peace to hand around, they all Smoked with eagerness out of the pipe held by the Ricara Chief Ar-ke-tar-na-Shar we mentioned our hands that were to be discharged here, also the roberrey commited on th 2 french men below, & requested them to answere us tomorrow, gave the Chief Small preasents and a fiew presents for each village Shot the air gun which both Surprised and astonished the nativs, and Soon dispersed
October 29, 1804, was a beautiful morning. After breakfast, we were visited by the old Chief of the Big Bellies, or Me Ne Tar Res. He has passed his power to his son, who is currently on a war party against the Snake Indians living in the Rocky Mountains. The southwest wind was very strong. We gathered for a council under a covering, and our sails were stretched out to block as much wind as possible. I delivered a long speech similar to what had been said to the nations below. The old Chief became restless before I finished speaking. He noted that his camp was exposed and could wait no longer. At the end of the speech, we mentioned the Ricaras and asked them to make peace and smoke from the sacred stem with their chief, whom I introduced. I handed him the peace pipe to pass around, and they all eagerly smoked from the pipe held by the Ricara Chief, Ar-ke-tar-na-Shar. We talked about our hands that were meant to be discharged here, as well as the robbery committed on the two French men downstream, and asked them to respond to us tomorrow. I gave the Chief a few small gifts and a few presents for each village, then fired the air gun, which both surprised and amazed the natives, and they soon dispersed.
our Ricara Chief Came told me he wished to return to his nation tomorrow I put him off & Said we would Send a talk by him after the Chiefs had Spoken to us—we gave a Steel mill to the mandans which was verry pleasing to them
our Ricara Chief Came told me he wanted to go back to his nation tomorrow. I postponed that and said we would send a message with him after the Chiefs had talked to us—we gave a steel mill to the Mandans, which they really appreciated.
The Chief who recved Medals to Day are as follows viz-in Council
The Chief who received medals today are as follows: in Council.
is Mandan village Ma-too-ton kai s Chief Sha-ha-ka Big White 2nd Ka-goh-ha-me little Crows
is Mandan village Ma-too-ton kai s Chief Sha-ha-ka Big White 2nd Ka-goh-ha-me little Crows
2 do village Roop tar-hee
2 do village Roop tar-hee
1 s & grand Chief Poss-cop-sa-he Black Cat
1 s & grand Chief Poss-cop-sa-he Black Cat
2d Chief Car-gar-no-mok-she raven man Chief
2d Chief Car-gar-no-mok-she raven man Chief
Mah har-ha village
Mah Har-Ha village
is Chief Ta-tuck-co pin re has, white Buffalow Skin unfolded
is Chief Ta-tuck-co pin re has, white Buffalow Skin unfolded
Little Menetarre village
Little Menetarre village
is Chief Omp-Se-ha-ra Black mockerson. 2d Chief Oh-hark little Fox.
is Chief Omp-Se-ha-ra Black mockerson. 2d Chief Oh-hark little Fox.
The Grand village of Manetarres, The One Eye is the principal Chief and he is out on a hunting party. we Send by the Grape all the articles for this grand Chief and all the Village what goods was intended for that Village—The Prarie got on fire and went with Such Violenc & Speed as to Catch a man & woman & burn them to Death, Several escapd. among other a Small boy who was Saved by getting under a green Buffalow Skin, this boy was half white, & the Indians Say all white flesh is medisan, they Say the grass was not burnt where the boy Sat &c. &. this fire passed us at 8 oClock, and lookd truly tremendious.
The Grand village of Manetarres, led by the One Eye, the chief, is currently out on a hunting expedition. We send all the supplies intended for this great chief and the entire village via the Grape. The prairie caught fire and spread with such violence and speed that it claimed the lives of a man and a woman. Several others escaped, including a small boy who was saved by hiding under a green buffalo skin. This boy was half white, and the Indians say that all white flesh is medicine; they observed that the grass wasn’t burned where the boy was sitting. The fire passed us at 8 o'clock and looked truly tremendous.
[Clark, October 29, 1804]
29th October Monday 1804 a fair fine morning after Brackfast we were visited by the old Cheaf of the Big bellies or ____ this man was old and had transfered his power to his Sun, who was then out at war against the Snake Indians who inhabit the rockey mountains—at 10 oClock the S W. wind rose verry high, we Collected the Chiefs and Commened a Council ounder a Orning and our Sales Stretched around to Keep out as much wind as possible, we delivered a long Speech the Substance of which Similer to what we had Delivered to the nations below. the old Chief of the Grossanters was verry restless before the Speech was half ended observed that he Could not wait long that his Camp was exposed to the hostile Indians, &c. &. he was rebuked by one of the Chiefs for his uneasiness at Such a time as the present, we at the end of the Speech mentioned the Ricare who Accompanied us to make a firm peace, they all Smoked with him (I gave this Cheaf a Dollar of the American Coin as a Meadel with which he was much pleased) In Councel we prosented him with a Certificate of his Sincrrity and good Conduct &c. we also Spoke about the fur which was taken from 2 french men by a Mandan, and informd of our intentions of Sending back the french hands—after the Council we gave the presents with much Seremoney, and put the Meadels on the Cheifs we intended to make viz. one for each Town to whome we gave Coats hats & flags, one Grand Cheif to each nation to whome we gave meadels with the presidents likeness in Councel we requested them to give us an answer tomorrow or as Soon as possible to Some points which required their Deliberation- after the Council was over we Shot the Air gun which appeared to assonish the nativs much, the greater part them retired Soon after
29th October Monday 1804, a fair morning. After breakfast, we were visited by the old chief of the Big Bellies. This man was elderly and had passed his authority to his son, who was away at war against the Snake Indians living in the Rocky Mountains. At 10 o'clock, the southwest wind picked up strongly. We gathered the chiefs and started a council under a tent, and our sails were stretched around to block as much wind as possible. We delivered a long speech that was similar to what we had shared with the nations below. The old chief of the Gros Ventres was very restless before the speech was halfway finished. He indicated that he couldn’t wait long because his camp was vulnerable to hostile Indians, etc. He was scolded by one of the chiefs for his impatience at such a time. By the end of the speech, we mentioned the Ricare who accompanied us to secure a lasting peace. They all smoked with him (I gave this chief a dollar of American coin as a medal, which pleased him greatly). In council, we presented him with a certificate of his sincerity and good conduct, etc. We also talked about the fur taken from two French men by a Mandan and informed them of our plans to return the French items. After the council, we presented gifts with much ceremony and adorned the chiefs we intended to reward with medals—one for each town, which we gave coats, hats, and flags. We awarded one grand chief from each nation with medals featuring the president’s likeness. In council, we requested their response tomorrow or as soon as possible on several matters that required their consideration. Once the council was finished, we shot the air gun, which astonished the natives, and most of them left shortly after.
The Ricare Cheaf Ar-ke-tar-na-shar Came to me this evening and tells me that he wishes to return to his Village & nation, I put him off Saying tomorrow we would have an answer, to our talk to the Satisfaction & Send by him a String of wompom informing what had passed here. a Iron or Steel Corn Mill which we gave to the Mandins, was verry Thankfully recived—(rte The Prarie was Set on fire (or Cought by accident) by a young man of the Mandins, the fire went with Such velocity that it burnt to death a man and woman, who Could not Get to any place of Safty, one man a woman & Child much burnt and Several narrowly escaped the flame—a boy half white was Saved un hurt in the midst of the flaim, Those ignerent people Say this boy was Saved by the great Spirit medisin because he was white—The Cause of his being Saved was a Green buffalow Skin was thrown over him by his mother who perhaps had more fore Sight for the pertection of her Son, and less for herself than those who escaped the flame, the Fire did not burn under the Skin leaving the grass round the boy This fire passed our Camp last about 8 oClock P.M. it went with great rapitidity and looked Tremendious
The Ricare Cheaf Ar-ke-tar-na-shar came to me this evening and told me that he wants to return to his village and nation. I put him off, saying that tomorrow we would have an answer to our discussion that would satisfy him, and I sent him a string of wampum informing him about what had happened here. An iron or steel corn mill that we gave to the Mandins was received with a lot of gratitude. The prairie was set on fire (or caught by accident) by a young man of the Mandins; the fire spread so quickly that it burned to death a man and woman who couldn’t find a safe place. One man, a woman, and a child were severely burned, and several others narrowly escaped the flames. A half-white boy was saved unharmed in the midst of the fire. Those ignorant people say this boy was saved by the great spirit medicine because he was white. The reason he was saved was that his mother threw a green buffalo skin over him, perhaps showing more foresight for her son’s protection than for her own, unlike those who escaped the flames. The fire didn’t burn under the skin, leaving the grass around the boy untouched. This fire passed our camp around 8 o'clock PM; it moved with great speed and looked tremendous.
The following Chiefs were made in Councel to day
The following Chiefs were appointed in Council today.
Mar-too-ton-ha or Lower Village of the Mandans 1st Cheif Sha-ha-ka or Big White 2 do Ka-goh-ha-mi or Little raven
Mar-too-ton-ha or Lower Village of the Mandans 1st Chief Sha-ha-ka or Big White 2 do Ka-goh-ha-mi or Little Raven
Roop-tar-hee or Second Village of the Mandans 1st and Grand Cheif-Pass-cop-sa-he or black Cat 2nd Cheif Car-gar-no-mok-She raven man Cheaf
Roop-tar-hee or Second Village of the Mandans 1st and Grand Chief-Pass-cop-sa-he or Black Cat 2nd Chief Car-gar-no-mok-She Raven Man Chief
Mah-har-ha 3rd Village Chief Ta-tuck-co-pin-re-ha (white Buffalow robe unfolded)
Mah-har-ha 3rd Village Chief Ta-tuck-co-pin-re-ha (white Buffalo robe unfolded)
Me-ne-tar-re Me-te har-tar 1st Cheif-Omp-se-ha-ra. Black Mockersons 2 do. Oh-harh or Little fox
Me-ne-tar-re Me-te har-tar 1st Cheif-Omp-se-ha-ra. Black Mockersons 2 do. Oh-harh or Little fox
we Sent the presents intended for the Grand Chief of the Mi-ne-tar-re or Big Belley, and the presents flag and wompoms by the Old Chief and those, and those intended for the Cheif of the Lower Village by a young Cheif
we sent the gifts meant for the Grand Chief of the Mi-ne-tar-re or Big Belly, along with the gift flag and wampum by the Old Chief, and those meant for the Chief of the Lower Village by a young Chief.
The following Cheifs were recommended in addition to those Viz.
The following Chiefs were recommended in addition to those, namely.
1st Village Oh-hee-nar Big Man—a Chien Sho-ta-har ro-ra
1st Village Oh-hee-nar Big Man—a Chien Sho-ta-har ro-ra
2d Village Taw nish-e-o—Bel-lar sa ra Ar-rat-ta na-mock-She—Wolf Man Chief
2d Village Taw nish-e-o—Bel-lar sa ra Ar-rat-ta na-mock-She—Wolf Man Chief
3rd Village Min-nis-Sur-ra-ree (Neighing horse) Lo-tong-gar-ti har—old woman at a distance
3rd Village Min-nis-Sur-ra-ree (Neighing horse) Lo-tong-gar-ti har—old woman at a distance
4th Village Mar-noh-tah the big Steeler Man-se-rus-se—tale of Callumet bird
4th Village Mar-noh-tah the big Steeler Man-se-rus-se—tale of Callumet bird
5th Village Ad hako ho pin nee Little Wolfs medisons Ar-rat-toe-no mook-gu (man wolf Chief) (at war) Cal-tar co ta—(Cherry grows on a bush) old Chief and father to the above mentd. Chief Maw-pah'-pir-re-cos-sa too—This chief is near this hunting and a verry Considerable man
5th Village Ad hako ho pin nee Little Wolfs medicines Ar-rat-toe-no mook-gu (man wolf Chief) (at war) Cal-tar co ta—(Cherry grows on a bush) old Chief and father to the above mentioned. Chief Maw-pah'-pir-re-cos-sa too—This chief is near this hunting and a very considerable man
To the 1st Chiefs we gave a medal with the Imp. of the President of the U S. To the 2d Chiefs a medal of weaveing & Domestic animals. To the 3rd Chiefs a medal with the impression of a man Sowing wheat.
To the 1st Chiefs, we gave a medal featuring the seal of the President of the U.S. To the 2nd Chiefs, a medal depicting woven patterns and domestic animals. To the 3rd Chiefs, a medal showing a man sowing wheat.
4th Village 1 Ea pa no pa—Two taled Calumet bird young Chief 2 War he ras sa the red Shield young Chief of Big belley-big town
4th Village 1 Ea pa no pa—Two-tailed Calumet Bird Young Chief 2 War he raised the red Shield Young Chief of Big Belly-Big Town
[Clark, October 30, 1804]
30th of October Tuesday 1804 many Indian Chief visit us today I went in th Perogou to the Island 7 miles above to look out a proper place for to winter, it being near the tim the ice begins to run at this place, and the Countrey after a few leagues high is Said to be barron of timber, I found no place Soutable, & we concluded to drop down to th next point below & build a fort to winter in the Party Danced which Delited the Indians.
30th of October, Tuesday, 1804. Many Indian chiefs visited us today. I went in the canoe to the island 7 miles upstream to find a suitable place to spend the winter, as it’s the time when the ice starts to flow in this area, and the land a few leagues in is said to be barren of timber. I couldn’t find a suitable spot, so we decided to move down to the next point below and build a fort to winter in. The party danced, which delighted the Indians.
[Clark, October 30, 1804]
30th October Tuesday 1804 Two Chiefs came to have Some talk one the princapal of the lower Village the other the one who thought himself the principal mane, & requested to hear Some of the Speech that was Delivered yesterday they were gratified, and we put the medal on the neck of the Big White to whome we had Sent Clothes yesterday & a flag, those men did not return from hunting in time to join the Counell, they were well pleased (2d of those is a Chien) I took 8 men in a Small perogue and went up the river as far as the 1st Island about 7 miles to See if a Situation Could be got on it for our Winter quarters, found the wood on the Isd. as also on the pt. above So Distant from the water that, I did not think that we Could get a good wintering ground there, and as all the white men here informed us that wood was Sceres, as well as game above, we Deturmined to drop down a fiew miles near wood and game on my return found maney Inds. at our Camp, gave the party a dram, they Danced as is verry Comn. in the evening which pleased the Savages much. Wind S. E
30th October Tuesday 1804 Two chiefs came to have a discussion, one being the head of the lower village and the other considering himself the main leader, and they requested to hear some of the speech that was delivered yesterday. They were pleased, and we placed the medal around the neck of the Big White to whom we had sent clothes and a flag yesterday. Those men did not return from hunting in time to join the council, but they were happy (the second of those is a Chien). I took 8 men in a small canoe and traveled up the river to the first island about 7 miles away to see if we could find a suitable location for our winter quarters. I found the wood on the island, as well as on the point above, was too far from the water, so I didn't think we could find a good wintering ground there. Also, all the white men here informed us that wood was scarce, as well as game up there. We decided to move down a few miles to get closer to wood and game. On my return, I found many Indians at our camp, gave the group a drink, and they danced, as is very common in the evening, which pleased the natives a lot. Wind S. E
[Clark, October 30, 1804]
Mandans
Mandans
Ka gar no mogh ge the 2d Chief of the 2d Village of Mandins Came the 30t of Octr. and Spoke to us as follows. Viz
Ka gar no mogh ge the 2d Chief of the 2d Village of Mandins came the 30th of Octr. and spoke to us as follows. Viz
Will you be So good as to go to the Village the Grand Chief will Speek & give Some Corn, if you will let Some men take bags it will be well. I am going with, the Chief of the ricares to Smoke a pipe with that nation—I concluded to go down
Will you be so kind as to go to the village where the Grand Chief will speak and give some corn? If you can let some men take bags, that would be great. I’m going with the Chief of the Ricares to smoke a pipe with that nation—I decided to go down.
Mockerson Indians
Mockerson Tribe
The principal Chief of the Wau to Soon Came and Spoke a fiew words on Various Subjects not much to the purpose. we Smoked and after my Shooting the air gun he departed, Those nations know nothing of reagular Councils, and know not how to proceed in them, they are restless &c-
The chief of the Wau soon came and spoke a few words on various topics that weren’t really significant. We smoked, and after I fired the air gun, he left. Those nations don't understand regular councils and don't know how to conduct them; they are restless, etc.
[Clark, October 31, 1804]
31st of October Wednesday 1804 The main Chief of the mandans Sent 2 Cheifs for to envite us to Come to his Lodge, and here what he has to Say I with 2 interpetes walked down, and with great Cerimony was Seated on a Robe by the Side of the Chief; he threw a Robe highly decoraterd over my Sholders, and after Smokeing a pipe with the old men in the Circle, the Chief Spoke he belived all we had told him, and that peace would be genl. which not only gave himself Satisfaction but all his people; they now Could hunt without fear & their women could work in the fields without looking every moment for the ememey, as to the Ricaras addressing himself to the Chief with me you know we do not wish war with your nation, you have brought it on your Selves, that man Pointing to the 2d Chief and those 2 young warriers will go with you & Smoke in the pipes of peace with the Ricaras—I will let you see my father addressing me that we wish to be at peace with all and do not make war upon any—he continud to Speak in this Stile (refer to notes) he delivered 2 of the Traps to me which was taken from the french men, gave me 2 bushels of Corn, I answered the Speech which appeared to give general Satisfactionand returned to the boat, In the evening the Chief Visited us Dressed in his new Suit, &delayed untill late the men Dancd untill 10 oClock which was common with them wrote to the N W Copanys agent on the Ossinniboin River by a Mr. McCruckin.
31st of October, Wednesday, 1804 The main Chief of the Mandans sent two chiefs to invite us to his lodge to hear what he had to say. I, along with two interpreters, went down and was ceremoniously seated on a robe beside the Chief. He threw a beautifully decorated robe over my shoulders, and after smoking a pipe with the elders in the circle, the Chief spoke. He believed everything we had told him and that peace would generally follow, which not only satisfied him but also pleased all his people. They could now hunt without fear, and their women could work in the fields without constantly looking out for the enemy. As for the Ricaras, addressing the Chief in my presence, he said, “You know we do not wish for war with your nation; you have brought it upon yourselves.” The man, pointing to the second Chief and those two young warriors, stated they would go with us and smoke the peace pipes with the Ricaras. “I will let you see my father,” he continued, “that we wish to be at peace with everyone and do not make war on anyone.” He kept speaking in this manner (refer to notes). He handed me two traps taken from the French and gave me two bushels of corn. I responded to the speech, which seemed to please everyone, and then returned to the boat. In the evening, the Chief visited us dressed in a new suit and stayed until late; the men danced until 10 o'clock, which was common for them. I wrote to the N.W. Company’s agent on the Ossinniboin River through a Mr. McCruckin.
[Clark, October 31, 1804]
31st of October Wednesday 1804 a fine morning, the Chief of the Mandans Sent a 2d Chief to invite us to his Lodge to recive Some Corn & here what he had to Say I walked down and with great ceremoney was Seeted on a roab by the Side of the Chief, he threw a handsom Roabe over me and after smokeing the pipe with Several old men arround, the Chief Spoke Said he believed what we had told them, and that peace would be general, which not only gave him Satisfaction but all his people, they now Could hunt without fear, & ther womin Could work in the fields without looking everry moment for the Enemey, and put off their mockersons at night, as to the Reares we will Show you that we wish peace with all, and do not make war on any without Cause, that Chief pointing to the 2d and Some brave men will accompy. the Ricare Chief now with you to his village & nation, to Smoke with that people, when you Came up the Indians in the neighbouring Villages, as well as those out hunting when they heard of you had great expectations of reciving presents they those hunting imediately on hearing returned to the Village and all was Disapointed, and Some Dessatisfied, as to himself he was not much So but his Village was—he would go and See his great father &c. &c.
October 31, 1804, Wednesday. It was a beautiful morning when the Chief of the Mandans sent a Second Chief to invite us to his lodge to receive some corn and hear what he had to say. I walked down and, with great ceremony, was seated on a robe beside the Chief. He draped a handsome robe over me, and after smoking the pipe with several old men around, the Chief spoke. He said he believed what we had told them and that peace would be widespread, which not only pleased him but all his people. They could now hunt without fear, and their women could work in the fields without constantly looking for the enemy, allowing them to set aside their anxieties at night. As for the rear, we will show you that we desire peace with everyone and do not make war on anyone without cause. The Chief pointed to the Second and some brave men who would accompany the Ricare Chief now with you to his village and nation, to smoke with that people. When you arrived, the Indians in the neighboring villages, as well as those out hunting, had high hopes of receiving presents. Those who were hunting immediately returned to the village upon hearing this and were all disappointed, with some feeling dissatisfied. As for himself, he wasn't too troubled, but his village was. He would go and see his great father, etc., etc.
he had put before me 2 of the Steel traps which was robed from the french a Short tim ago. about 12 bushels of Corn which was brought and put before me by the womin of the Village after the Chief finished & Smoked in great cerrimony, I answered the Speech which Satisfied them verry much and returned to the boat. met the princapal Chief of the 3d Village and the Little Crow both of which I invited into the Cabin and Smoked & talked with for about one hour. Soon after those Chiefs left us the Grand Chief of the Mandans Came Dressed in the Clothes we had given with his 2 Small Suns, and requested to See the men Dance which they verry readily gratified him in,—the wind blew hard all the after part of the day from the N E and Continud all night to blow hard from that point, in the mornig it Shifed N W. Capt Lewis wrote to the N W Companys agent on the Orsineboine River abt. North of this place
He showed me two steel traps that were taken from the French a little while ago. About twelve bushels of corn were brought and placed in front of me by the women of the village after the chief finished and smoked in a big ceremony. I responded to the speech, which made them very happy, and then returned to the boat. I met the principal chief of the third village and Little Crow, both of whom I invited into the cabin, and we smoked and talked for about an hour. Soon after those chiefs left us, the grand chief of the Mandans came dressed in the clothes we had given him, along with his two small sons, and asked to see the men dance, which they were more than happy to do. The wind blew hard from the northeast for the rest of the day and continued to blow strongly from that direction all night; by morning, it shifted to the northwest. Captain Lewis wrote to the Northwest Company's agent on the Orsineboine River about north of this place.
[Clark, October 31, 1804]
black Cat or Pose-cop-sa-he 1st Chief of the Mandans & 2d Village
black Cat or Pose-cop-sa-he 1st Chief of the Mandans & 2d Village
"I believe what you have told us in Council, & that peace will be general, which not only givs me pleasure, but Satisfaction to all the nation, they now Can hunt without fear, and our womin Can work in the fields without looking every moment for the enimey-" as to the Ricares we will Show you that we wish piace with all, and do not make war on any with out Cause, that Chief pointing to the 2d of the Village and Some young men will accompany the Ricrea Chief home to his Nation to Smoke with that people—When the Indians of the Different Villages heard of your Comeing up they all Came in from hunting to See, they expected Great presents. they were disapointed, and Some dissatisfied- as to my Self I am not much So, but my Village are—he believed the roade was open; and he would go and See his great father—he Delivered Up 2 Traps which had been taken from the french, & gave me a roabe & about 12 bushels of Corn—& smoked &c
"I believe what you've told us in the Council, and that peace will be widespread, which not only brings me joy but also satisfaction to the whole nation. Now they can hunt without fear, and our women can work in the fields without constantly watching for the enemy. Regarding the Ricarea, we want to show you that we wish for peace with everyone and do not start wars without reason. The chief pointed to the second village and mentioned that some young men will accompany the Ricarea chief back to his nation to smoke with them. When the Indians from different villages heard about your coming, they all returned from hunting to see you, expecting great gifts. They were disappointed and some were dissatisfied. As for me, I’m not too upset, but my village is. He believed the road was open, and he would go to see his great father. He handed over two traps that had been taken from the French and gave me a robe and about twelve bushels of corn—then we smoked, etc."
I answered the Speech it explained, many parts which he Could not understand-of the Speech of yesterday.
I replied to the speech; it clarified many parts that he couldn't understand from yesterday's speech.
[Lewis, October 31, 1804]
Wednesday October 31st 1804. The river being very low and the season so far advanced that it frequently shuts up with ice in this climate we determined to spend the Winter in this neighbourhood, accordingly Capt. Clark with a party of men reconnoitred the countrey for some miles above our encampment; he returned in the evening without having succeed in finding an eligible situation for our purpose.-
Wednesday, October 31st, 1804. The river was very low, and the season was getting late, often leading to it freezing over in this climate. We decided to spend the winter in this area. Capt. Clark, along with a group of men, explored the countryside for several miles above our camp; he returned in the evening without finding a suitable place for our needs.
[Clark, November 1, 1804]
1 November 1804 Visited by Several Chiefs of the lower Village who requested we would call on them &c. Spoke to the Same purpote with the Grand Chief. we Set out in the evening & I with the Party droped down to the place we intended to winter & Cap Lewis called at the Village 3 miles above &. &.
1 November 1804 Visited by several chiefs from the lower village who requested that we come to see them, etc. I spoke to the same purpose with the Grand Chief. We set out in the evening, and I, along with the party, moved down to the place where we planned to spend the winter, while Captain Lewis stopped at the village three miles above, and...
[Clark, November 1, 1804]
1st of November Thursday 1804 the wind hard from the N W. Mr. McCrackin a Trader Set out at 7 oClock to the fort on the Ossiniboin by him Send a letter, (incloseing a Copy of the British Ministers protection) to the principal agent of the Company—at about 10 OClock the Cheifs of the Lower Village Cam and after a Short time informed us they wished they would us to call at their village & take Some Corn, that they would make peace with the Ricares they never made war against them but after the rees Killed their Chiefs they killed them like the birds, and were tired and would Send a Chief and Some brave men to the Ricares to Smoke with that people in the evening we Set out and fell down to the lower Village where Capt. Lewis got out and continud at the Village untill after night I proceeded on & landed on the S. S. at the upper point of the 1st Timber on the Starboard Side after landing & Continuinge—all night droped down to a proper place to build Capt Lewis Came down after night, and informed me he intended to return the next morning by the perticular Request of the Chiefs.
1st of November, Thursday 1804. The wind was blowing hard from the northwest. Mr. McCrackin, a trader, set out at 7 o'clock to the fort on the Ossiniboin and sent a letter, including a copy of the British Minister's protection, to the principal agent of the Company. Around 10 o'clock, the chiefs of the Lower Village came by and briefly informed us that they wanted us to visit their village and take some corn. They expressed a desire to make peace with the Ricares, stating that they never declared war against them, but after the Ricares killed their chiefs, they retaliated without hesitation. They were weary of conflict and would send a chief and some brave men to smoke with the Ricares. In the evening, we set out and moved down to the Lower Village, where Captain Lewis got out and stayed until after dark. I continued on and landed on the south side at the upper point of the first timber on the starboard side. After landing and continuing throughout the night, I drifted down to a suitable spot to build. Captain Lewis came down after dark and informed me that he planned to return the next morning at the specific request of the chiefs.
We passed the Villages on our Decent in veiw of Great numbers of the inhabitents
We passed through the villages on our descent, seeing a large number of the inhabitants.
[Clark, November 1, 1804]
The 1st of Novr. Mandins is Village the Main Chief Big White & 2 others i e the Big Man or Sha-ha-ca and ____ Came early to talk, and Spoke as follows, after Smoking, Viz.
The 1st of Nov. Mandins is Village the Main Chief Big White & 2 others i.e. the Big Man or Sha-ha-ca and ____ came early to talk and spoke as follows, after smoking, namely:
Is it Certain that the ricares intend to make good with us our wish is to be at peace with all, we will Send a Chief with the pania Chief and Some young men to Smoke and make good peace-? are you going to Stay abov or below this Cold.—answer by C. L We are going down a few miles to look a place we can find no place abov proper.
Is it certain that the ricares intend to make things right with us? Our wish is to be at peace with everyone. We will send a chief with the pania chief and some young men to smoke and establish a good peace. Are you going to stay above or below this cold?—Answer by C. L. We are going down a few miles to look for a place; we can’t find a proper spot above.
The panias know's we do not begin the war, they allway begin, we Sent a Chief and a pipe to the Pania to Smoke and they killed them-, we have killed enough of them we kill them like the birds, we do not wish to kill more, we will, make a good peace
The Panias know that we don’t start the war; they always do. We sent a Chief and a pipe to the Panias to smoke, and they killed them. We have killed enough of them; we kill them like birds. We don’t want to kill any more; we want to make a good peace.
We were Sorry when we heard of your going up but now you are going down, we are glad, if we eat you Shall eat, if we Starve you must Starve also, our village is too far to bring the Corn to you, but we hope you will Call on us as you pass to the place you intend to Stop
We were sad to hear you were going up, but now that you’re coming down, we’re glad. If we eat, you should eat too; if we starve, then you must starve as well. Our village is too far to bring the corn to you, but we hope you’ll stop by as you pass on your way to where you plan to go.
C L answered the above-
C L responded to the above-
[Lewis, November 1, 1804]
Thursday November 1st 1804 The wind blew so violently during the greater part of this day that we were unable to quit our encampment; in the evening it abated;—we droped down about seven miles and land on N. E. side of the river at a large point of Woodland.
Thursday, November 1st, 1804 The wind blew so fiercely for most of the day that we couldn’t leave our camp; in the evening, it calmed down; we drifted about seven miles and landed on the northeast side of the river at a large wooded area.
[Clark, November 2, 1804]
2nd Novr. 1804 Friday—Capt Lewis returned to the Village & I fixed on a place for to build a fort and Set to work Cap Lewis returned in the eveng with 11 bushels of Corn, the Ricarre Chief Set out for his Village accompanied by Several mandans
2nd Nov 1804 Friday—Captain Lewis returned to the village, and I chose a spot to build a fort and got to work. Captain Lewis came back in the evening with 11 bushels of corn. The Ricarre chief set out for his village, accompanied by several Mandans.
[Clark, November 2, 1804]
2nd November Friday 1804 This morning at Day light I went down the river with 4 men to look for a proper place to winter proceeded down the river three miles & found a place well Supld. with wood, & returned, Capt. Lewis went to the village to here what they had to Say & I fell down, and formed a camp near where a Small Camp of Indian were huntig Cut down the Trees around our Camp, in the evening Capt. Lewis returned with a present of 11 bushels of Corn, our recaree Chief Set out acccompanied by one Chief and Several Brave men, he Called for Some Small article which we had given but as I could not understand him he Could not get. the wind from the S. E. a fine day—many Indians to day
2nd November Friday 1804 This morning at daylight I went down the river with 4 men to look for a good spot to spend the winter. We traveled down the river three miles and found a place well-supplied with wood, then returned. Captain Lewis went to the village to hear what they had to say while I set up a camp near a small group of Indians who were hunting. I cleared the trees around our camp, and in the evening, Captain Lewis returned with a gift of 11 bushels of corn. Our chief set out with one chief and several brave men, and he requested some small items that we had previously given, but since I couldn't understand him, he wasn't able to get them. The wind was from the southeast, and it was a nice day—many Indians were around today.
[Lewis, November 2, 1804]
Friday November 2nd 1804" This morning early we fixed on the site for our fortification which we immediately set about.
Friday, November 2nd, 1804: This morning, we decided on the location for our fortification, and we immediately got to work on it.
This place we have named Fort Mandan in honour of our Neighbours.
[Clark, November 3, 1804]
3rd of November Satturday 1804 wind hard from the west Commence building our Cabins, Dispatched 6 hunters in a perogue Down the River to hunt, Discharged the french hands, Mr. Jessomme his Squar & child moved to camp, the little Crow loaded his Squar with meat for us also a Roabe, we gave the Squar an ax & &. Cought 2 bever near Camp
3rd of November, Saturday 1804, strong wind from the west. We started building our cabins. Sent six hunters in a canoe down the river to hunt. Let go the French workers, and Mr. Jessomme, his wife, and child moved to camp. The little Crow loaded his wife with meat for us and also a robe. We gave her an axe and caught two beavers near camp.
[Clark, November 3, 1804]
3rd of November Satterday 1804 a fine morning wind hard from the West we commence building our Cabins, Send Down in Perogue 6 men to hunt Engaged one man, Set the french who intend to return to build a perogue, many Indians pass to hunt, Mr. Jessomme with his Squar & Children. come Down to live, as Interpter, we recive a hors for our Sirvice, in the evening the Ka goh ha mi or little ravin Came & brought us on his Squar about 60 Wt. of Dried Buffalow meat a roabe, & Pot of Meal &. they Delayed all night- we gave his Squar an ax & a fiew Small articles & himself a piece of Tobacco, the Men were indulged with a Dram, this evening two Beaver Cought This morning—and one Trap Lost
November 3rd, Saturday, 1804, was a beautiful morning with a strong wind coming from the west. We started building our cabins and sent six men down in a canoe to hunt. We hired one man and allowed the Frenchmen, who plan to return, to build a canoe. Many Indians passed by to hunt. Mr. Jessomme came down with his wife and children to stay with us as our interpreter. We received a horse for our service. In the evening, the Ka goh ha mi, or little raven, arrived and brought us about 60 pounds of dried buffalo meat, a robe, and a pot of meal. They stayed the night, and we gave his wife an axe and a few small items, while we gave him a piece of tobacco. The men enjoyed a drink this evening. Two beavers were caught this morning, but one trap was lost.
[Clark, November 4, 1804]
4th of Novr. a french man by Name Chabonah, who Speaks the Big Belley language visit us, he wished to hire & informed us his 2 Squars were Snake Indians, we engau him to go on with us and take one of his wives to interpet the Snake language The Indians Horses & Dogs live in the Same Lodge with themselves
4th of November, a French man named Chabonah, who speaks the Big Belly language, visited us. He wanted to hire on and informed us that his two wives were Snake Indians. We asked him to join us and bring one of his wives to interpret the Snake language. The Indians' horses and dogs live in the same lodge as them.
[Clark, November 4, 1804]
4th November Sunday 1804 Fort Mandan a fine morning we Continued to Cut Down trees and raise our houses, a Mr. Chaubonee, interpeter for the Gross Vintre nation Came to See us, and informed that he came Down with Several Indians from a Hunting expedition up the river, to here what we had told the Indians in Councl this man wished to hire as an interpeter, the wind rose this evining from the East & Clouded up—Great numbers of Indians pass hunting and Some on the return-
4th November Sunday 1804 Fort Mandan a beautiful morning we continued to cut down trees and build our houses. Mr. Chaubonee, the interpreter for the Gros Ventre nation, came to visit us and let us know he had come down with several Indians from a hunting trip up the river to hear what we had told the Indians in council. This man wanted to work as an interpreter. The wind picked up this evening from the East and it got cloudy—many Indians passed by hunting and some were on their way back.
[Clark, November 5, 1804]
5th November Monday 1804 I rose verry early and commenced raising the 2 range of Huts the timber large and heavy all to Carry on Hand Sticks, Cotton wood & Elm Som ash Small, our Situation Sandy, great numbers of Indians pass to and from hunting a Camp of Mandans, A fiew miles below us Cought within two days 100 Goat, by Driveing them in a Strong pen, derected by a Bush fence widening from the pen &c. &. the Greater part of this day Cloudy, wind moderate from the N. W. I have the Rhumitism verry bad, Cap Lewis writeing all Day—we are told by our interpeter that 4 Ossiniboin Indians, have arrived at the Camps of the Gross Venters & 50 Lodges are Comeing
5th November Monday 1804 I got up very early and started building the two ranges of huts. The timber was large and heavy, all carried on hand sticks, cottonwood, and elm, with some small ash. Our location was sandy, and many Indians passed by on their way to and from hunting. A camp of Mandans a few miles below us caught 100 goats in two days by driving them into a strong pen that was guided by a bush fence widening from the pen, etc. The weather was mostly cloudy for the greater part of the day, with a moderate wind coming from the northwest. I have a bad case of rheumatism, and Cap Lewis has been writing all day. Our interpreter told us that four Osiniboine Indians have arrived at the camps of the Gross Venters, and 50 lodges are on the way.
[Clark, November 6, 1804]
6th of Nov. Mr. Gravolin our Ricara Interpreter & 2 of our french hands & 2 boys Set out in a Canoe for the Ricaras Mr. ravellin is to accompany the Ricaras Chiefs to the City of Washington in the Spring, Great numbers of Geese pass to the South which is a certain approach of ice
6th of Nov. Mr. Gravolin, our Ricara Interpreter, along with 2 of our French crew members and 2 boys, set out in a canoe for the Ricaras. Mr. Gravolin will accompany the Ricaras' chiefs to the City of Washington in the spring. A large number of geese are heading south, which indicates that ice is definitely approaching.
[Clark, November 6, 1804]
6th November Tuesday 1804 Fort Mandan last night late we wer awoke by the Sergeant of the Guard to See a nothern light, which was light, not red, and appeared to Darken and Some times nearly obscered, and open, many times appeared in light Streeks, and at other times a great Space light & containing floating Collomns which appeared opposite each other & retreat leaveing the lighter Space at no time of the Same appearence
6th November Tuesday 1804 Fort Mandan last night late we were awakened by the Sergeant of the Guard to see a northern light, which was bright, not red, and seemed to darken and sometimes nearly disappear. It often appeared in bright streaks, and at other times, there were large areas of light containing floating columns that appeared opposite each other and retreated, leaving the lighter space without a consistent appearance.
This morning I rose a Day light the Clouds to the North appeared black at 8 oClock the wind begun to blow hard from the N W. and Cold, and Continud all Day Mr. Jo Gravilin our ricare interpeter Paul premor, Lajuness & 2 french Boys, who Came with us, Set out in a Small perogue, on their return to the ricaree nation & the Illinois, Mr. Gravilin has instructions to take on the recarees in the Spring &c.—Continue to build the huts, out of Cotton Timber, &c. this being the only timber we have.
This morning I got up at daylight. The clouds to the north looked black. At 8 o'clock, the wind started blowing hard from the northwest and it was cold, continuing all day. Mr. Jo Gravilin, our Ricare interpreter, Paul Premor, Lajuness, and two French boys who came with us set out in a small canoe on their way back to the Ricaree Nation and Illinois. Mr. Gravilin has instructions to bring back the Ricarees in the spring, etc.—We continue to build the huts out of cottonwood, etc., as this is the only timber we have.
[Clark, November 7, 1804]
7th November Wednesday 1804 a termperate day we continued to building our hut, Cloudy and fogging all day
7th November Wednesday 1804 a temperate day we continued building our hut, cloudy and foggy all day
[Clark, November 8, 1804]
8th Novr. Thursday 1804 a Cloudy morning Jussome our interpreter went to the Village, on his return he informed us that three English men had arrived from the Hudsons Bay Company, and would be here tomorrow, we Contd. to build our huts, many Indians Come to See us and bring their horses to Grass near us
8th Nov 1804, Thursday: It was a cloudy morning. Jussome, our interpreter, went to the village. When he returned, he told us that three Englishmen had arrived from the Hudson's Bay Company and would be here tomorrow. We continued building our huts, and many Indians came to see us, bringing their horses to graze nearby.
[Clark, November 9, 1804]
9th Novr. Friday 1804 a verry hard frost this morning we Continue to build our Cabens, under many disadvantages, Day Cloudy wind from the N W. Several Indians pass with flying news, we got a White weasel, (Taile excepted which was black at the end) of an Indian Capt Lewis walked to the hill abt. 3/4 of a mile—we are Situated in a point of the Missouri North Side in a Cotton wood Timber, this Timber is tall and heavy Containing an imence quantity of water Brickle & Soft food for Horses to winter (as is Said by the Indians) The Mandans Graze their horses in the day on Grass, and at night give them a Stick of Cotton wood to eate, Horses Dogs & people all pass the night in the Same Lodge or round House, Covd. with earth with a fire in the middle
9th Nov, Friday 1804. It was a really hard frost this morning. We continue to build our cabins despite many challenges. The day is cloudy, with the wind coming from the northwest. Several Indians have passed by with urgent news. We caught a white weasel (except for its tail, which was black). Captain Lewis walked to the hill about three-quarters of a mile away. We're located at a point on the north side of the Missouri River, in a cottonwood forest. This timber is tall and thick, containing a huge amount of water and soft fodder for horses to winter on (as the Indians say). The Mandans let their horses graze on grass during the day and give them a stick of cottonwood to eat at night. Horses, dogs, and people all share the same lodge or round house, covered with earth and with a fire in the middle.
great number of wild gees pass to the South, flew verry high
[Clark, November 10, 1804]
10th November Satturday 1804 rose early continued to build our fort numbers of Indians Came to See us a Chief Half Partia & brought a Side of a Buffalow, in return We Gave Some fiew small things to himself & wife & Son, he Crossed the river in the Buffalow Skin Canoo & and, the Squar took the Boat and proceeded on to the Town 3 miles the Day raw and Cold wind from the N W, the Gees Continue to pass in gangues as also brant to the South, Some Ducks also pass
10th November Saturday 1804, woke up early and continued to build our fort. A number of Indians came to see us; a chief named Half Partia brought a side of buffalo. In return, we gave him and his wife and son a few small gifts. He crossed the river in the buffalo skin canoe while the woman took the boat, and they headed to the town, which is 3 miles away. The day was raw and cold, with a north-west wind. The geese continued to fly in groups, as did the brant heading south. Some ducks were also passing by.
[Clark, November 11, 1804]
11th November Sunday 1804 Fort Mandan a Cold Day Continued at work at the Fort Two men Cut themselves with an ax, The large Ducks pass to the South an Indian gave me Several roles of parched meal two Squars of the Rock Mountain, purchased from the Indians by a frenchmen Came down The Mandans out hunting the Buffalow
11th November, Sunday, 1804, Fort Mandan: It was a cold day. We continued working at the fort. Two men accidentally cut themselves with an ax. The large ducks flew south. An Indian gave me several rolls of parched meal. Two square pieces of rock mountain were purchased from the Indians by a Frenchman. The Mandans came down to hunt buffalo.
[Clark, November 12, 1804]
12th November Monday 1804 a verry Cold night early this morning the Big White princapal Chief of the lower Village of the Mandans Came Down, he packd about 100 W. of fine meet on his Squar for us, we made Some Small presents to the Squar, & Child gave a Small ax which She was much pleased—3 men Sick with the ____ Several, Wind Changeable verry cold evening, freesing all day Some ice on the edges of the river.
12th November Monday 1804 a very cold night early this morning the Big White principal Chief of the lower Village of the Mandans came down, he packed about 100 lbs. of fine meat on his horse for us, we made some small presents to the Chief, and the child gave a small axe which she was very pleased with—3 men sick with the ____ several, wind changeable, very cold evening, freezing all day, some ice on the edges of the river.
Swans passing to the South, the Hunters we Sent down the river to hunt has not returned
Swans heading South, the hunters we sent down the river to hunt haven't returned.
The interpeter Says that the Mandan nation as they old men Say Came out of a Small lake where they had Gardins, maney years ago they lived in Several Villages on the Missourie low down, the Smallpox destroyed the greater part of the nation and reduced them to one large Village and Some Small ones, all nations before this maladey was affrd. of them after they were reduced the Sioux and other Indians waged war, and killed a great maney, and they moved up the Missourie, those Indians Still continued to wage war, and they moved Still higher, untill they got in the Countrey of the Panias, whith this ntn. they lived in friendship maney years, inhabiting the Same neighbourhood untill that people waged war, They moved up near the watersoons & winataree where they now live in peace with those nations, the mandans Specke a language peculial to themselves
The interpreter says that the Mandan nation, according to the old men, came from a small lake where they had gardens. Many years ago, they lived in several villages down by the Missouri River. The smallpox epidemic wiped out most of the nation, leaving them with one large village and a few small ones. All the other nations feared them before this disease, but after they were reduced, the Sioux and other tribes declared war and killed many of them. They moved up the Missouri River, but those tribes continued to wage war, and they moved even further until they reached the land of the Pani, with whom they lived in friendship for many years, sharing the same area until that people went to war. They then moved up near the waters of the Sun and Winatree, where they now live peacefully with those nations. The Mandans speak a language unique to themselves.
they can rase about 350 men, the Winatarees about 80 and the Big bellies about 600 or 650 men. the mandans and Seauex have the Same word for water-The Big bellies Winitarees & ravin Indians Speake nearly the Same language and the presumption is they were origionally the Same nation The Ravin Indians have 400 Lodges & about 1200 men, & follow the Buffalow, or hunt for their Subsistance in the plains & on the Court not & Rock Mountains, & are at war with the Sioux Snake Indians
they can raise about 350 men, the Winatarees about 80, and the Big Bellies about 600 or 650 men. The Mandans and Sioux have the same word for water. The Big Bellies, Winatarees, and Raven Indians speak nearly the same language, and it's assumed they were originally the same nation. The Raven Indians have 400 lodges and about 1200 men, and they follow the buffalo or hunt for their subsistence in the plains and on the Continental and Rocky Mountains, and they are at war with the Sioux Snake Indians.
The Big bellies & Watersoons are at war with the Snake Indians & Seauex, and were at war with the Ricares untill we made peace a fiew days passd.—The Mandans are at War with all who make war on them, at present with the Seauex only, and wish to be at peace with all nations, Seldom the agressors-
The Big Bellies and Watersoons are at war with the Snake Indians and Seauex, and they were at war with the Ricares until we made peace a few days ago. The Mandans are at war with anyone who attacks them, currently just the Seauex, and they want to be at peace with all nations, seldom being the aggressors.
[Clark, November 13, 1804]
13th The Ice begin to run we move into our hut, visited by the Grand Chief of the Mandans, and Che chark Lagru a Chief of the Assinniboins & 7 men of that Nation, I Smoke with them and gave the Chief a Cord & a Carrot of Tobacco—this Nation rove in the Plains above this and trade with the British Companes on the Ossinniboin River, they are Divided into Several bands, the decendants of the Sioux & Speak nearly their langguage a bad disposed Set & Can raies about moo men in the 3 bands near this place, they trade with the nations of this neighbourhood for horses Corn & Snow all Day Capt. L. at the village.
13th The ice begins to melt, and we move into our hut, visited by the Grand Chief of the Mandans and Che chark Lagru, a Chief of the Assinniboins, along with 7 men from that nation. I smoked with them and gave the Chief a cord and a carrot of tobacco. This nation roams the plains above us and trades with the British companies on the Ossinniboin River. They are divided into several bands, descendants of the Sioux, and speak nearly the same language. They are a troublesome group and can raise about 300 men among the 3 bands near this place. They trade with the neighboring nations for horses, corn, and snow all day. Capt. L. is at the village.
[Clark, November 13, 1804]
13th Novr. Tuesday 1804 The Ice began to run in the river 1/2 past 10 oClock P. M we rose early & onloaded the boat before brackfast except, the Cabin, & Stored away in a Store house—at 10 oClock A M the Black Cat the Mandin Chief and Lagru Che Chark Chief & 7 men of note visited us at Fort Mandan, I gave him a twist of Tobacco to Smoke with his people & a Gold Cord with a view to Know him again, The nation Consists of about 600 men, hunt in the Plains & winter and trade on the Ossiniboin River, they are Decendants of the Siaux and Speake their language, they Come to the nations to this quarter to trade or (make preasthts) for horses the method of this Kind of Trafick by addoption Shall be explained hereafter &, Snow'd all day, the Ice ran thick and air Cold.
13th Nov. Tuesday 1804 The ice started to flow in the river at 10:30 PM. We got up early and unloaded the boat before breakfast, except for the cabin, and stored everything in a shed. At 10 AM, the Black Cat, the Mandin chief, and Lagru Che Chark, the chief of seven notable men, visited us at Fort Mandan. I offered him a twist of tobacco to smoke with his people and a gold cord, hoping to recognize him later. The nation consists of about 600 people who hunt on the plains in winter and trade on the Ossiniboine River. They are descendants of the Sioux and speak their language. They come to this area to trade or try to secure horses. The method of this kind of trading will be explained later. It snowed all day, the ice flowed heavily, and the air was cold.
[Clark, November 14, 1804]
Fort Mandan 14th of November Wednesday 1804 a Cloudy morning, ice runing verry thick river rose 1/2 Inch last night Some Snow falling, only two Indians visit us to day Owing to a Dance at the Village last night in Concluding a Serimoney of adoption, and interchange of property, between the Ossiniboins, Christinoes and the nations of this neighbourhood—we Sent one man by land on hors back to know the reason of the Delay of our hunters, this evening 2 french men who were traping below Came up-with 20 beaver we are compelled to use our Pork which we doe Spearingly for fear of Some falur in precureing a Sufficiency from the Woods.
Fort Mandan, November 14th, Wednesday, 1804. It was a cloudy morning with ice flowing very thick. The river rose half an inch last night, and some snow is falling. Only two Indians visited us today due to a dance at the village last night that concluded a ceremony of adoption and the exchange of property among the Assiniboine, Chrisitino, and the local nations. We sent one man on horseback overland to find out why our hunters are delayed. This evening, two French men who were trapping downstream came back with 20 beaver. We are forced to use our pork sparingly for fear of not securing enough from the woods.
our Interpeter informs that 70 Lodges one of 3 bands of Assinniboins & Some Crestinoes, are at the Mandan Village. The Crrirstinoes are abt. 300 men Speak the Chipaway-Language, the live near Fort De peare
our Interpreter informs that 70 Lodges, one of 3 bands of Assinniboins & Some Crestinoes, are at the Mandan Village. The Crestinoes are about 300 men who speak the Chippewa language and live near Fort De Peare.
[Clark, November 15, 1804]
15th of November Thursday 1804 a Cloudy morning, the ice run much thicker than yesterday at 10 oClock G Drewyer & the frenchman we Dispatched yesterday came up from the Hunters, who is incamped about 30 miles below—after a about one hour we Dispatched a man with orders to the hunters to proceed on without Delay thro the floating ice, we Sent by the man Tin, to put on the parts of the Perogue exposed to the ice & a toe roape—The wind Changeable—all hands work at their huts untill 1 oClock at night Swans passing to the South—but fiew fowls water to be Seen—not one Indian Came to our fort to day
15th of November, Thursday 1804, a cloudy morning. The ice is much thicker than yesterday. At 10 o'clock, G. Drewyer and the Frenchman we sent out yesterday returned from the hunters, who are camped about 30 miles downriver. After about an hour, we sent a man with orders for the hunters to continue on without delay through the floating ice. We also sent along some tin to cover the parts of the perogue exposed to the ice and a tow rope. The wind is changeable, and everyone is working on their huts until 1 o'clock at night. Swans are flying south, but there are few birds to see. Not a single Indian came to our fort today.
[Clark, November 16, 1804]
16th November Friday 1804 a verry white frost all the trees all Covered with ice, Cloudy, all the men move into the huts which is not finishd Several Indians Come to Camp to day, The Ossiniboins is at the Big bellie Camp, Some trouble like to take place between them from the loss of horses &c. as is Said by an old Indian who visited us with 4 buffalow robes & Corn to trade for a pistol which we did not let him have, men imployed untill late in dobing their huts, Some horses Sent down to Stay in the woods near the fort, to prevent the Ossniboins Steeling them
16th November Friday 1804 a very white frost, all the trees covered with ice. It’s cloudy, and all the men are moving into the huts, which aren’t finished. Several Indians came to camp today. The Assiniboins are at the Big Belly Camp. Some trouble is likely due to the loss of horses, as said by an old Indian who visited us with 4 buffalo robes and corn to trade for a pistol, which we didn’t let him have. The men worked late completing their huts, and some horses were sent down to stay in the woods near the fort to prevent the Assiniboins from stealing them.
[Clark, November 17, 1804]
17 th November Satturday 1804 a fine morning, last night was Cold, the ice thicker than yesterday, Several Indians visit us, one Chief Stayed all day we are much engaged about our huts.
17th November Saturday 1804 a beautiful morning, last night was cold, the ice thicker than yesterday. Several Indians visited us, and one chief stayed all day. We are busy with our huts.
[Clark, November 18, 1804]
18th Novr. Sunday 1804 a Cold morning Some wind the Black Cat, Chief of the Mandans Came to See us, he made Great inquiries respecting our fashions. he also Stated the Situation of their nation, he mentioned that a Council had been held the day before and it was thought advisable to put up with the resent insults of the Ossiniboins & Christonoes untill they were Convinced that what had been told thim by us, Mr. Evins had deceived them & we might also, he promised to return & furnish them with guns & amunitiion, we advised them to remain at peace & that they might depend upon Getting Supplies through the Channel of the Missouri, but it requred time to put the trade in opperation. The Assiniboins &c have the trade of those nations in their power and treat them badly as the Soux does the Ricarees and they cannot resent for fear of loseing their trade &.
18th Nov. Sunday 1804 A cold morning with some wind. The Black Cat, chief of the Mandans, came to see us. He asked a lot of questions about our customs. He also explained the situation of their nation, mentioning that a council had been held the day before. It was decided that they should tolerate the recent insults from the Assiniboins and Christonoes until they were convinced that Mr. Evins had deceived them. He promised to return and provide them with guns and ammunition. We advised them to stay at peace and assured them they could expect to receive supplies through the Missouri, but it would take time to start the trade. The Assiniboins and others have control over the trade with those nations and treat them poorly, just like the Sioux do with the Ricarees, and they can’t retaliate for fear of losing their trade.
[Clark, November 19, 1804]
19th of November 1804 our hunters return with 32 Deerr, 12 Elk & a Buffalow Ice ran which detained the huntes much Cap lewis visit the Me ne tar rees, the 25th and returned the 27th of Nov. with 2 Chiefs &c. &c. and told me that 2 Clerks & 5 men of the N W Company & Several of the hudsons Bay Company had arrived with goods to trade with the Indians a Mr. La Roche & Mc Kinzey are the Celerks (Distant 150 Miles across)
19th of November 1804, our hunters returned with 32 deer, 12 elk, and a buffalo. Ice delayed the hunters quite a bit. Captain Lewis visited the Menatarrees on the 25th and came back on the 27th of November with 2 chiefs, and more. He informed me that 2 clerks and 5 men from the Northwest Company, along with several from the Hudson's Bay Company, had arrived with goods to trade with the Indians. Mr. La Roche and Mr. McKinzey are the clerks. (Distance: 150 miles away)
[Clark, November 19, 1804]
19th Novr. Monday a Cold day the ice Continue to run our Perogue of Hunters arrive with 32 Deer, 12 Elk & a Buffalow, all of this meat we had hung up in a Smoke house, a timeley supply—Several Indians here all day—the wind bley hard from the N. W. by W. our men move into their huts, Several little Indian aneckdts. told me to day
19th Nov. Monday, a cold day. The ice keeps running. Our canoe of hunters arrives with 32 deer, 12 elk, and a buffalo. We hung all this meat up in a smokehouse—a timely supply. Several Indians were here all day. The wind blew hard from the northwest by west. Our men moved into their huts. Several little Indian kids told me today.
[Clark, November 20, 1804]
20th November Tuesday 1804 Capt Lewis & my Self move into our huts, a verry hard wind from the W. all the after part of the day a temperate day Several Indians Came Down to Eat fresh meat, three Chiefs from the 2d Mandan Village Stay all Day, they are verry Curious in examining our works. Those Chiefs informs us that the Souix settled on the Missourie above Dog River, threten to attacked them this winter, and have treated 2 Ricares who Carried the pipe of peace to them Verry roughly. whiped & took their horses from them &c. &c. & is much displeased with Ricares for makeing a peace with the Mandans &. &. through us, &. we gave them a Sattisfactory answer. &c. &c.
20th November, Tuesday, 1804. Captain Lewis and I moved into our huts today. There was a really strong wind coming from the west for most of the day, but it was a mild day overall. Several Indians came by to eat fresh meat, and three chiefs from the second Mandan village stayed with us all day. They were very curious about our work. Those chiefs informed us that the Sioux, who live on the Missouri River above Dog River, are threatening to attack them this winter. They also mistreated two Ricares who carried a peace pipe to them—beating them and taking their horses, among other things. They're quite upset with the Ricares for making peace with the Mandans through us, but we gave them a satisfactory answer.
[Clark, November 21, 1804]
21st Novr. Wednesday a fine Day dispatched a perogu and Collected Stone for our Chimnys, Some wind from the S. W. arrange our different articles—maney Indians visit us to day, G D hurd his hand verry bad- all the party in high Spirits—The river Clear of ice, & riseing a little
21st Nov. Wednesday, a nice day. Dispatched a canoe and collected stone for our chimneys. Some wind from the southwest. Organized our various items—many Indians visited us today. G. D. hurt his hand really badly—everyone in the group is in high spirits. The river is clear of ice and rising slightly.
[Clark, November 22, 1804]
22nd of November Thursday 1804 a fine morning Dispatched a perogue and 5 Men under the Derection of Sergeant Pryor to the 2nd Village for 100 bushels of Corn in ears which Mr. Jessomme, let us have did not get more than 80 bushels—I was allarmed about 10 oClock by the Sentinal, who informed that an Indian was about to Kill his wife in the interpeters fire about 60 yards below the works, I went down and Spoke to the fellow about the rash act which he was like to commit and forbid any act of the kind near the fort- Some missunderstanding took place between this man & his wife about 8 days ago, and She came to this place, & Continued with the Squars of the interpeters, 2 days ago She returned to the Villg. in the evening of the Same day She came to the interpeters fire appearently much beat, & Stabed in 3 places—We Detected that no man of this party have any intercourse with this woman under the penelty of Punishment—he the Husband observed that one of our Serjeants Slept with his wife & if he wanted her he would give her to him, We derected the Serjeant Odway to give the man Some articles, at which time I told the Indian that I believed not one man of the party had touched his wife except the one he had given the use of her for a nite, in his own bed, no man of the party Should touch his Squar, or the wife of any Indian, nor did I believe they touch a woman if they knew her to be the wife of another man, and advised him to take his Squar home and live hapily together in future,—at this time the Grand Chief of the nation arrived, & lecturd him, and they both went off apparently dis
22nd of November, Thursday, 1804 - a lovely morning. I sent a canoe and 5 men under the direction of Sergeant Pryor to the 2nd Village for 100 bushels of corn on the cob that Mr. Jessomme had agreed to provide us with, but we only got about 80 bushels. Around 10 o'clock, I was alarmed by the sentry, who informed me that an Indian was about to kill his wife near the interpreter's fire, about 60 yards below the fort. I went down and talked to the man about the rash act he was about to commit and forbade any such actions near the fort. There had been a misunderstanding between this man and his wife about 8 days ago, so she came here and stayed with the interpreter's women. Two days ago, she returned to the village, and that evening she came back to the interpreter's fire, clearly beat up and stabbed in three places. We found out that no man in our group had any interactions with her under the penalty of punishment. The husband claimed that one of our sergeants had slept with his wife, and he said that if he wanted her, he would give her to him. We instructed Sergeant Odway to give the man some items, and I told the Indian that I believed none of our men had touched his wife except for the one night he had allowed. I assured him that none of the party should touch his woman or the wife of any other Indian, nor did I believe they would touch a woman if they knew she was already someone else's wife. I advised him to take his wife home and live happily together in the future. At that moment, the Grand Chief of the nation arrived and lectured him, and they both left looking apparently satisfied.
The grand Chief continued all day a warm Day fair afternoon—many Indian anickdotes one Chief & his familey Stay all night.
The chief spent the entire day in warm, pleasant weather—many Native American stories were shared, and the chief and his family stayed overnight.
[Clark, November 23, 1804]
23rd, a fair warm Day, wind from the S. E. Send after Stone Several men with bad Colds, one man Sheilds with the Rhumitism the river on a Stand haveing rose 4 Inches in all
23rd, a nice warm day, with the wind coming from the southeast. I sent several men after Stone, as some of them have bad colds, and one man, Shields, has rheumatism. The river is at a standstill, having risen 4 inches overall.
[Clark, November 24, 1804]
24th of November Satturday 1804 a warm Day Several men with bad Coalds we continue to Cover our Huts with hewed punchens, finishd. a Cord to draw our boat out on the bank, this is made 9 Straps of Elk Skin,—the wind from the S. E.
24th of November Saturday 1804, a warm day. Several men have bad colds. We continue to cover our huts with hewed punchens; finished a cord to pull our boat onto the bank. This is made of 9 straps of elk skin—the wind is coming from the southeast.
[Clark, November 25, 1804]
25th of Novr. Sunday 1804 a fine day warm & pleasent Capt. Lewis 2 Interpeters & 6 men Set out to See the Indians in the different Towns & Camps in this neighbour hood, we Continu to Cover & dob our huts, two Chiefs Came to See me to day one named Wau-ke-res-sa-ra, a Big belley and the first of that nation who has visited us Since we have been here, I gave him a Handkerchef Paint & a Saw band, and the other Some fiew articles, and paid a perticular attention which pleased them verry much, the interpeters being all with Capt. Lewis I could not talk to them. we Compleated our huts—Several men with bad Colds, river fall 11/2 inch
25th of Nov, Sunday 1804. It was a nice day, warm and pleasant. Captain Lewis, two interpreters, and six men set out to visit the Indians in the different towns and camps in this area. We continued to cover and finish our huts. Two chiefs came to see me today; one named Wau-ke-res-sa-ra, a big man and the first from his nation to visit us since we arrived here. I gave him a handkerchief, paint, and a saw blade, and the other chief received a few items as well. I paid special attention to them, which made them very happy. Since all the interpreters were with Captain Lewis, I couldn't talk to them. We finished our huts. Several men have bad colds. The river fell 1.5 inches.
[Clark, November 26, 1804]
26th of Novr. 1804 Monday Fort Mandan a little before day light the wind shifted to the N. W. and blew hard and the air Keen & Cold all day, Cloudy and much the appearance of Snow; but little work done to day it being Cold &c.
26th of Nov. 1804 Monday Fort Mandan just before dawn, the wind shifted to the N.W. and blew strongly, with the air sharp and cold all day. It was cloudy with signs of snow; not much work got done today because of the cold, etc.
[Clark, November 27, 1804]
27th of November Tuesday 1804 a cloudy morning after a verry Cold night, the River Crouded with floating ice wind from the N W. finished Dobing Capt. Lewis returned from the Villages with two Chiefs Mar-noh toh & Man-nes-sur ree & a Considerate man with the party who accompanied him, The Menitares, (or Big bellies) were allarmed at the tales told them by the Mandans Viz: that we intended to join the Seaux to Cut off them in the Course of the winter, many Circumstances Combind to give force to those reports i e the movements of the interpeters & their families to the Fort, the strength of our work &. &.
27th of November, Tuesday, 1804, a cloudy morning after a very cold night. The River was crowded with floating ice, and the wind was coming from the northwest. I finished Dobing. Captain Lewis returned from the villages with two chiefs, Mar-noh toh and Man-nes-sur ree, along with a respected man who was part of the group that accompanied him. The Menitares (or Big Bellies) were alarmed by the stories the Mandans told them, specifically that we planned to team up with the Seaux to cut them off during the winter. Many factors combined to strengthen these reports, such as the movements of the interpreters and their families to the fort, the strength of our position, and so on.
all those reports was contridicted by Capt Louis with a Conviction on the minds of the Indians of the falsity of those reports—the Indians in all the towns & Camps treated Capt Lewis & the party with Great respect except one of the principal Cheifs Mar par pa par ra pas a too or (Horned Weasel) who did not Chuse to be Seen by the Capt. & left word that he was not at home &.
All those reports were contradicted by Captain Lewis, convincing the Indians of the falsehood of those claims. The Indians in all the towns and camps treated Captain Lewis and his party with great respect, except for one of the main chiefs, Mar par pa par ra pas a too, also known as Horned Weasel, who chose not to be seen by the captain and informed them that he was not at home.
Seven Traders arrived from the fort on the Ossinaboin from the N W Companey one of which Lafrances took upon himself to speak unfavourably of our intentions &. the princpal Mr. La Rock, (& Mr. McKensey) was informed of the Conduct of their interpeter & the Consiquinces if they did not put a Stop to unfavourable & ill founded assursions &c. &.
Seven traders came from the fort on the Ossinaboin from the Northwest Company. One of them, Lafrances, spoke negatively about our intentions. The main trader, Mr. La Rock, along with Mr. McKensey, was informed about the behavior of their interpreter and the consequences if they didn’t put a stop to the unfavorable and baseless assurances.
The two Chiefs much pleased with their treatments & the Cherefullness of the party, who Danced to amuse them &c. &c.
The two Chiefs were very happy with their treatment and the cheerfulness of the group, who danced to entertain them, etc. etc.
The river fall 2 Inches verry Cold and began to Snow at 8 oClock P M and Continued all night—Some miss understanding with Jussomm & his woman—at Day the Snow Seased
The river dropped 2 inches, very cold, and it started to snow at 8 PM and continued all night. There was some misunderstanding with Jussomm and his woman. By morning, the snow stopped.
[Clark, November 28, 1804]
28th Novr. Wednesday 1804 a cold morning wind from the N. W river full of floating ice, began to Snow at 7 oClock a m and continued all day at 8 oClock the Poss-cop-so-he or Black Cat Grand Chief of the Mandans Came to See us, after Showing Those Chiefs many thing which was Curiossities to them, and Giveing a fiew presents of Curioes Handkerchiefs arm bans & paint with a twist of Tobaco they departed at 1 oClock much pleased, at parting we had Some little talk on the Subject of the British Trader Mr. Le rock Giveing Meadils & Flags, and told those Chiefs to impress it on the minds of their nations that those Simbells were not to be recved by any from them, without they wished incur the displieasure of their Great American Father—a verry disagreeable day—no work done to day river fall 1 Inch to day
28th Nov. Wednesday 1804, a cold morning with wind from the NW. The river was full of floating ice and started snowing at 7 AM, continuing all day. At 8 AM, the Poss-cop-so-he, or Black Cat, Grand Chief of the Mandans, came to see us. After showing the chiefs many things that intrigued them and giving a few gifts like handkerchiefs, armbands, and some paint along with a twist of tobacco, they left at 1 PM, quite pleased. Before parting, we discussed the British trader Mr. Le Rock giving medals and flags, instructing the chiefs to make it clear to their nations that those symbols should not be accepted from anyone unless they wanted to upset their Great American Father. It was a very unpleasant day—no work was done today, and the river fell by 1 inch.
[Clark, November 29, 1804]
29th November Thursday 1804 A verry Cold windey day wind from the N. W by W. Some Snow last night the Detpt of the Snow is various in the wood about 13 inches, The river Closed at the Village above and fell last night two feet Mr. La Rock and one of his men Came to visit us we informed him what we had herd of his intentions of makeing Chiefs &c. and forbid him to give meadels or flags to the Indians, he Denied haveing any Such intention, we agreeed that one of our interpeters Should Speak for him on Conditions he did not Say any thing more than what tended to trade alone—he gave fair promises &.
29th November Thursday 1804 A very cold, windy day with the wind coming from the NW by W. There was some snow last night; the depth of the snow varies, about 13 inches in the woods. The river closed at the village above and dropped two feet last night. Mr. La Rock and one of his men came to visit us. We informed him about what we had heard regarding his plans to make chiefs, etc., and we forbade him from giving medals or flags to the Indians. He denied having any such intention. We agreed that one of our interpreters should speak for him on the condition that he wouldn’t say anything beyond what related to trade alone—he gave fair promises.
[Clark, November 30, 1804]
30h of Nov. an Indian Chief Came and informed us that five Men of the Mandans Nation was on a hunting party to the S W, distance about Eight Leagues, they were Surprised one man Killed two wounded and nine horses taken, Severale others men wer on hunting partes & were to have returned Several days ago & had not yet returned, & that they expected to be attacked by an army of Sioux I took 23 men and went to the Village deturmined to Collect the warriers of the Different Villages and meet the Sioux—The village not expecting Such Strong aid in So Short a time was a little alarmed of the formable appearance of my party The principal Chiefs met me at 200 yards Distance from the Town, and envited me to his Lodge. I told the Nation the Cause of Comeing &. was to assist in Chastiseing the enimies of my Dutifull Children—I requested great Chief to repeat the Cercunstance of the Sioux attack as it realy happined which he did—I told them to Send runners to the other villages & assemble the warriers & we Would go and Chastize the Sioux for Spilling the Blood of my Dutifull Children—after a Conversation of a few minits amongst themselves, a Chief Said that they now Saw that what we had told them was the trooth and we were ready to protect them and Kill those who did not listen to our Councils (and after a long Speech) he concluded Said "the Sious who Spilt our Blood is gorn home—The Snow is deep and it is Cold, our horses Cannot Travel thro the plains in pursute—If you will go and conduct us in the Spring after the Snow is gorn, we will assemble all the warriers & Brave men in all the villages and go with you." I answered the Speach at Some length, explained to them their Situation declareing our intentions of Defending them at any time dureing the time we Should Stay in ther nieghbourhood, explained the Situation of the Ricaras & told them not to get angrey with them untill they were Certain of their haveing violated the treaty &c. &. I crossed the River on the Ice and returned to the fort
On November 30th, an Indian chief came to inform us that five men from the Mandan nation were on a hunting trip to the southwest, about eight leagues away. They were ambushed; one man was killed, two were wounded, and nine horses were taken. Several other men were also on hunting trips and were supposed to return several days ago but hadn't come back yet. They feared they would be attacked by a Sioux army. I took 23 men and went to the village, determined to gather warriors from different villages and confront the Sioux. The village, not expecting such strong support in such a short time, was a bit alarmed by the formidable appearance of my party. The main chiefs met me about 200 yards from the town and invited me to his lodge. I told the nation the reason for my visit: to help punish the enemies of my loyal children. I asked the great chief to repeat the details of the Sioux attack as they really happened, which he did. I instructed them to send runners to the other villages and gather the warriors, and we would go and punish the Sioux for spilling the blood of my loyal children. After a brief discussion among themselves, one chief said they now understood that what we had told them was true and that we were ready to protect them and deal with those who didn’t follow our advice. After a long speech, he concluded by saying, "The Sioux who spilled our blood has gone home. The snow is deep and it's cold; our horses can't travel through the plains in pursuit. If you'll lead us in the spring after the snow has melted, we'll gather all the warriors and brave men from all the villages and go with you." I responded to the speech at some length, explaining their situation and declaring our intention to defend them at any time during our stay in their area. I clarified the situation with the Ricaras and advised them not to get angry with them until they were sure they had violated the treaty, etc. I crossed the river on the ice and returned to the fort.
[Clark, November 30, 1804]
30th in the morning early a Indian Came to the river opposit & requsted to be brought over, that he had Some thing to Say from his nation we Sent for him, and after he had Smoked—he Said he thought the river was frosted across here & expected to Cross on the ice
30th in the early morning, an Indian came to the river opposite and requested to be brought over, saying he had something to say from his nation. We sent for him, and after he had smoked, he said he thought the river was frozen across here and expected to cross on the ice.
7 or 8 Mandans out hunting in a S. W, Derection from this place about 8 Leagues, after they had made their hunt and on their return was attackted by a large Party of Seaux, one of the party a young Chief was Killed 2 wounded & 9 horses taken, the men who made their escape Say the one half of the party who attacked them was Panias-
7 or 8 Mandans went out hunting to the southwest from this spot, about 8 leagues away. After they completed their hunt and were on their way back, they were attacked by a large group of Sioux. One of the party, a young chief, was killed, 2 were wounded, and 9 horses were taken. The men who escaped reported that half of the group that attacked them were Pawnees.
The two Panias who Came here a fiew days ago was imediately Sent home, for fear of their being put to death by the party Defeated
The two Panias who came here a few days ago were immediately sent home, for fear that they might be killed by the defeated party.
Two of the attacting party was Known to be Panies. The man who was killed mentioned that after he was wounded, that he had been at war & been wounded, "this day I shall die like a man before my Enimies,! tell my father that I died bravely, and do not greive for me-"
Two of the attacking party were known to be enemies. The man who was killed said that after he was wounded, he had been at war and had been hurt, "Today I will die like a man before my enemies! Tell my father that I died bravely, and don’t grieve for me."
4 of the Big bellies who were Camped near thos is missing, and Searching for him in their Camps above—no one Dare to go to the ground where the battle was for fear of the Sioux being noumerous-.
4 of the Big Bellies who were camped nearby are missing, and searching for them in their camps above—no one dares to go to the ground where the battle was for fear of the Sioux being numerous.
[Clark, November 30, 1804]
30th of November Friday 1804 This morning at 8 oClock an Indian Calld from the other Side and informed that he had Something of Consequence to Communicate. we Sent a perogue for him & he informed us as follows. Viz: "five men of the Mandan Nation out hunting in a S. W. derection about Eight Leagues was Suprised by a large party of Sceoux & Panies, one man was Killed and two wounded with arrows & 9 Horses taken, 4 of the We ter Soon nation was missing, & they expected to be attacked by the Souix &c. &." we thought it well to Show a Disposition to ade and assist them against their enimies, perticularly those who Came in oppersition to our Councils, and I Deturmined to go to the town with Some men, and if the Sceoux were comeing to attact the nation to Collect the worriers from each Village and meet them, thos Ideas were also those of Capt Lewis, I crossed the river in about an hour after the arrival of the Indian express with 23 men including the interpeters and flankd the Town & came up on the back part The Indians not expecting to receive Such Strong aide in So Short a time was much Supprised, and a littled allarmed at the formadable appearance of my party—The principal Chiefs met me Some Distance from the town (Say 200 yards) and invited me in to town, I ord my pty into dft. lodges & I explained to the nation the cause of my comeing in this formadable manner to their Town, was to asst and Chastise the enimies of our Dutifull Children,—I requested the Grand Cheif to repeat the Circumstancies as they hapined which he did as was mentioned by the Express in the morning—I then informed them that if they would assemble their warrers and those of the different Towns I would to meet the Army of Souix & Chastise thim for takeing the blood of our dutifull Children &c. after a conversation of a fiew minits anongst themselves, one Chief the Big Man Cien Said they now Saw that what we hade told them was the trooth, whin we expected the enimies of their Nation was Comeing to attact them, or had spilt their blood were ready to protect them, and Kill those who would not listen to our Good talk—his people had listened to what we had told them and Cearlessly went out to hunt in Small parties believing themselves to be Safe from the other Nations—and have been killed by the Panies & Seauex. "I knew Said he that the Panies were Tiers, and told the old Chief who Came with you (to Confirm a piece with us) that his people were hers and bad men and that we killed them like the Buffalow, when we pleased, we had made peace Several times and you Nation have always Commened the war, we do not want to Kill you, and will not Suffer you to Kill us or Steal our horses, we will make peace with you as our two fathers have derected, and they Shall See that we will not be the Ogressors, but we fear the Ricares will not be at peace-long—My father those are the words I Spoke to the Ricare in Your presents—you See they have not opened their ears to your good "Councils but have Spuilt our blood. two Ricarees whome we Sent home this day for fear of our peoples Killing them in their greaf-informed us when they Came here Several days ago, that two Towns of the Ricares were makeing their Mockersons, and that we had best take care of Our horses & a number of Sieuex were in their Towns, and they believed not well disposed towards us—four of the Wetersoons are now absent they were to have been back in 16 days they have been out 24 we fear they have fallen. my father the Snow is deep and it is cold our horses Cannot travel thro the the plains,—those people who have Spilt our blood have gorn back? if you will go with us in the Spring after the Snow goes off we will raise the Warriers of all the Towns & nations around about us, and go with you."
30th of November, Friday, 1804 This morning at 8 o'clock, an Indian came from the other side and said he had something important to tell us. We sent a canoe for him, and he informed us as follows: "Five men from the Mandan Nation were out hunting to the southwest, about eight leagues away, when they were surprised by a large group of Sioux and Panis. One man was killed, two were wounded by arrows, and nine horses were taken. Four of the Wetar Soon Nation are missing, and they expect to be attacked by the Sioux." We thought it was wise to show a willingness to help them against their enemies, especially those who went against our plans. I decided to go to the town with some men, and if the Sioux were coming to attack, we would gather the warriors from each village to meet them. This idea was also supported by Captain Lewis. I crossed the river about an hour after the Indian report arrived, with 23 men, including the interpreters, and approached the town from the back. The Indians, not expecting such strong support in such a short time, were very surprised and a little alarmed by the formidable appearance of my party. The main chiefs met me a short distance from the town (about 200 yards) and invited me in. I ordered my party into different lodges and explained to the nation that I came in this strong manner to assist and punish the enemies of our loyal children. I asked the Grand Chief to repeat the circumstances as they had occurred, which he did as mentioned by the express in the morning. I then informed them that if they would gather their warriors, I would go to confront the Sioux army and punish them for taking the blood of our loyal children. After a brief conversation among themselves, one chief, the Big Man Cien, said they now realized what we had told them was true—when we expected their enemies were coming to attack them or had spilled their blood, we were ready to protect them and kill those who would not listen to our good words. His people had heard what we said and foolishly went out to hunt in small groups, believing themselves safe from other nations, but they had been killed by the Panis and Sioux. "I knew," he said, "that the Panis were liars, and I told the old chief who came with you (to confirm peace with us) that his people were thieves and bad men, and we would kill them like buffalo whenever we wanted. We have made peace several times, and your nation has always started the war. We do not want to kill you, and we will not allow you to kill us or steal our horses. We will make peace with you as our two fathers have directed, and they shall see that we will not be the aggressors. However, we fear the Ricare will not be at peace for long. My father, those are the words I spoke to the Ricare in your presence. You see, they have not listened to your good advice but have spilled our blood. Two Ricare who we sent home today for fear of our people killing them out of grief informed us when they arrived here several days ago that two Ricare towns were preparing their war gear, and we should take care of our horses since a number of Sioux were in their towns, and they believed they were not well-disposed towards us. Four of the Wetar Soon are missing; they were supposed to return in 16 days but have been out for 24, and we fear they have fallen. My father, the snow is deep and it's cold; our horses cannot travel through the plains. Those people who have spilled our blood have gone back. If you will go with us in the spring after the snow melts, we will gather the warriors from all the towns and nations around us and go with you."
I told this nation that we Should be always willing and ready to defend them from the insults of any nation who would dare to Come to doe them injurey dureing the time we would remain in their neighbourhood, and requstd. that they would inform us of any party who may at any time be discovered by their Patroles or Scouts.
I told this nation that we should always be willing and ready to defend them from the insults of any country that would dare to harm them while we are in their vicinity, and I requested that they inform us of any group that may be found by their patrols or scouts.
I was Sorry that the Snow in the Plains had fallen So Deep Sence the Murder of the young Chief by the Scioux as prevented, their horses from traveling I wished to meet those Scioux & all others who will not open their ears, but make war on our dutifull Children, and let you See that the Wariers of your great father will Chastize the enimies of his dutifull Children the Mandans, wetersoons & Winitarees, who have opend. their ears to his advice—you Say that the Panies or Ricares were with the Sciaux, Some bad men may have been with the Sciaux you know there is bad men in all nations, do not get mad with the racarees untill we know if those bad men are Counternoncd. by their nation, and we are Convsd. those people do not intend to follow our Councils—you know that the Sceaux have great influence over the ricarees and perhaps have led Some of them astray—you know that the Ricarees, are Dependant on the Sceaux for their guns, powder, & Ball, and it was policy in them to keep on as good terms as possible with the Siaux untill they had Some other means of getting those articles &c. &. you know your Selves that you are Compelled to put up with little insults from the Christinoes & Ossinaboins (or Stone Inds.) because if you go to war with those people, they will provent the traders in the north from bringing you Guns Powder & Ball and by that means distress you verry much, but whin you will have Certain Suppliers from your Great American father of all those articls you will not Suffer any nation to insult you &c. after about two hours conversation on various Subjects all of which tended towards their Situation &c. I informed them I Should return to the fort, the Chief Said they all thanked me verry much for the fatherly protection which I Showed towards them, that the Village had been Crying all the night and day for the death of the brave young man, who fell but now they would wipe away their tears, and rejoice in their fathers protection-and Cry no more
I was sorry that the snow in the plains had fallen so deep since the murder of the young chief by the Sioux, which prevented their horses from traveling. I wished to confront those Sioux and all others who refuse to listen but choose to wage war against our dutiful children, and show you that the warriors of your great father will punish the enemies of his loyal children: the Mandans, the Wetersoons, and the Winitarees, who have listened to his advice. You say that the Panies or Ricarees were with the Sioux. Some bad people may have been with the Sioux; you know there are bad people in all nations. Let’s not get angry with the Ricarees until we know if those bad individuals are condemned by their nation, and we are convinced that those people do not intend to follow our councils. You know that the Sioux have great influence over the Ricarees and may have led some of them astray. You understand that the Ricarees depend on the Sioux for their guns, powder, and ball, and it was wise for them to maintain good relations with the Sioux until they have other means of obtaining those items. You also know that you have to tolerate small insults from the Christianos and Ossinaboins (or Stone Indians) because if you go to war with them, they will prevent traders in the north from bringing you guns, powder, and ball, which would distress you greatly. But once you have secure suppliers from your Great American father for those articles, you will not allow any nation to insult you. After about two hours of conversation on various topics, all related to their situation, I informed them I would return to the fort. The chief said they all thanked me very much for the fatherly protection I showed towards them and that the village had been crying all night and day for the brave young man who had fallen. But now they would wipe away their tears and rejoice in their father's protection and cry no more.
I then Paraded & Crossed the river on the ice and Came down on the N. Side the Snow So deep, it was verry fatigueing arrved at the fort after night, gave a little Taffee, a Cold night the river rise to its former hite—The Chief frequently thanked me for Comeing to protect them—and the whole Village appeared thankfull for that measure
I then paraded and crossed the river on the ice and came down on the north side. The snow was so deep that it was very exhausting. I arrived at the fort after dark, gave a little taffy, and it was a cold night. The river had risen to its previous height. The chief frequently thanked me for coming to protect them, and the whole village seemed grateful for that effort.
[Clark, December 1, 1804]
1s Decr. a young Chief arrived
1s Decr. a young Chief arrived
7 Chiens Came to the Village with a pipe & the 3 Ricares who Came here a fiew days ago & Sent off yesterday have returned and Say that the Sieaux & ricares are Camped together
7 Dogs Came to the Village with a pipe & the 3 Ricares who Came here a few days ago & Sent off yesterday have returned and Say that the Sieaux & Ricares are Camped together
[Clark, December 1, 1804]
1st of December Satturday 1804 wind from the N W. all hands ingaged in pitting pickets &. at 10 oClock the half brother of the man who was killed Came and informd. us that after my departure last night Six Chiens So Called by the french Shar ha Indians had arrived with a pipe and Said that The mandans apprehended danger from the Shar has as they were at peace with the Seaux; and wished to Kill them and the Ricarees (or Parties) but the Cheifs informed the nation "it was our wish that they Should not be hurt, and forbid being Killed &c." we gave a little Tobacco &c. & this man Departed well Satisfied with our councils and advice to him in the evening a Mr. G Henderson in the imploy of the hudsons bay Company Sent to trade with the Gros ventre-or big bellies So Called by the french traders
1st of December, Saturday, 1804. Wind from the NW. All hands were engaged in digging pickets. At 10 o'clock, the half-brother of the man who was killed came and informed us that after my departure last night, six "Chiens," as the French call them, Shar ha Indians had arrived with a pipe. They said that the Mandans were worried about danger from the Shar ha since they were at peace with the Seaux and wanted to kill them and the Ricarees (or Parties). However, the chiefs told the nation, "It is our wish that they should not be hurt, and we forbid them to be killed," etc. We gave a little tobacco, and this man left satisfied with our advice and counsel. In the evening, a Mr. G. Henderson, employed by the Hudson's Bay Company, sent to trade with the Gros Ventre—or Big Bellies, as they are called by French traders.
[Clark, December 2, 1804]
2d of Decr. 1804 Visited by Several Mandan Chiefs and 4 Chyannes Inds. who Came with a pipe to the Mandans, Sent a Speech to ther Nation a flag & Some tobacco, also written a Speech to the Ricaras & Sioux, informe them what they might depend on if they would not open their ears, & &.
2nd of December, 1804. I was visited by several Mandan chiefs and four Cheyenne individuals who came with a pipe to the Mandans. They sent a speech to their nation, a flag, and some tobacco. A speech was also written to the Ricaras and Sioux, informing them of what they could expect if they didn't pay attention.
[Clark, December 2, 1804]
2nd of December Sunday 1804 The latter part of last night was verry warm and Continued to thaw untill ____ oClock when the wind Shifted to the North at 11 oClock the Chiefs of the Lower village of the Mandans with maney of theire young men and 4 of the Shar-ha's who had come to Smoke with the pipe of Peace with the Mandans, we explained to them our intentions our views and advised them to be at peace, Gave them a flag for theire nation, Some Tobacco with a Speech to Deliver to their nation on theire return, also Sent by them a letter to Mrs. Tabbo & Gravoline, at the Ricares Village, to interseid in proventing Hostilities, and if they Could not effect those measures to Send & informe us of what was going on, Stateing to the Indians the part we intend to take if the Rickores & Seauex did not follow our Derections and be at peace with the nations which we had addopted—We made Some fiew Small presents to those Shar ha's and also Some to the Mandans & at 3 oClock they all Departed well pleased, haveing Seen many Curisossties, which we Showed them-. river rise one inch
December 2, Sunday, 1804 Last night was pretty warm and continued to thaw until ____ o'clock when the wind switched to the north. At 11 o'clock, the leaders of the Lower village of the Mandans, along with many of their young men and 4 of the Shar-ha's who had come to smoke the peace pipe with the Mandans, met with us. We explained our intentions and views and advised them to maintain peace. We gave them a flag for their nation, some tobacco, and a speech to deliver to their nation upon their return. We also sent them a letter to Mrs. Tabbo & Gravoline at the Ricares Village, asking them to intervene to prevent hostilities. If they couldn't manage that, we requested they send us updates on what was happening, informing the Indians about the role we intended to take if the Rickores & Seauex did not follow our directions and remain at peace with the nations we had aligned with. We made a few small gifts to the Shar-ha's and some to the Mandans, and at 3 o'clock, they all left satisfied, having seen many curiosities we showed them. The river rose one inch.
[Clark, December 3, 1804]
3rd December Monday 1804. a fine morning the after part of the day Cold & windey the wind from the N W. The Father of the Mandan who was killed Came and made us a present of Some Dried Simnens & a little pemicon, we made him Some Small preasents for which he was much pleased
3rd December Monday 1804. A beautiful morning; the afternoon was cold and windy with the wind coming from the northwest. The father of the Mandan who was killed came and gave us a gift of some dried salmon and a little pemmican. We gave him some small gifts in return, which made him very happy.
[Clark, December 4, 1804]
4th of December Tuesday 1804 a Cloudy raw Day wind from the N. W. the Black Cat and two young Chiefs Visit us and as usial Stay all Day the river rise one inch finish the main bastion, our interpetr. we discover to be assumeing and discontent'd
4th of December, Tuesday, 1804. It’s a cloudy, chilly day with wind coming from the northwest. The Black Cat and two young chiefs visit us and, as usual, stay all day. The river rises by one inch. We finish the main bastion. Our interpreter seems to be assuming and discontented.
[Clark, December 5, 1804]
5th December Wednesday 1804 a Cold raw morning wind from the S. E. Some Snow, two of the N W. Companey Came to See us, to let us Know they intended to Set out for the establishment on the osinniboin River in two Days-& their party would Consist of 5 men, Several Indians also visited us one brought Pumpkins or Simmins as a preasent a little Snow fell in the evening at which time the wind Shifted round to N. E.
5th December Wednesday 1804 a cold, chilly morning wind from the S.E. Some snow, two of the N.W. Company came to see us to let us know they intended to set out for the establishment on the Osinniboin River in two days, and their party would consist of 5 men. Several Indians also visited us; one brought pumpkins, or simmins, as a gift. A little snow fell in the evening when the wind shifted to N.E.
[Clark, December 6, 1804]
Fort Mandan 6th of December Thursday 1804 The wind blew violently hard from the N, N W. with Some Snow the air Keen and Cold. The Thermometer at 8 oClock A, M, Stood at 10 dgs. above o—at 9 oClock a man & his Squar Came down with Some meat for the inturpeter his dress was a par mockersons of Buffalow Skin Pr. Legins of Goat Skin & a Buffalow robe, 14 ring of Brass on his fingers, this metel the Mandans ar verry fond off—Cold after noon river rise 11/2 Inch to day
Fort Mandan, December 6th, Thursday, 1804. The wind blew fiercely from the north-northwest, with some snow; the air was sharp and cold. The thermometer at 8:00 AM read 10 degrees above zero. At 9:00 AM, a man and his wife came down with some meat for the interpreter. His outfit consisted of a pair of moccasins made from buffalo skin, goat skin leggings, and a buffalo robe, and he had 14 brass rings on his fingers. The Mandans are very fond of that metal. After noon, the river rose 1.5 inches today.
[Clark, December 7, 1804]
at Fort mandan 7th of December 1804, we were informed by a Chief that great numbers of Buffalow were on the hills near us Cap Lewis with a party went out & Killed 11three in view of our fort, The weather so excesive Cold & wolves plenty, we only saved 5 of them, I with a party turned on the 8th out and found the Buffalow at 7 ms. distant Killed 8 & a Deer, I returned with 2 Cows leaving men with remaining meat—Several men badly frost bit—The Themormeter Stood this morning at 44 d. below Breizing.
At Fort Mandan on December 7, 1804, we were told by a chief that there were a lot of buffalo on the hills nearby. Captain Lewis and a group went out and killed 11, three of which were visible from our fort. The weather was extremely cold, and there were plenty of wolves, so we only managed to save 5 of them. I, along with a group, went out on the 8th and found the buffalo 7 miles away. We killed 8 and a deer. I returned with 2 cows, leaving some men with the remaining meat. Several men suffered from severe frostbite. The thermometer this morning read 44 degrees below freezing.
Capt Lewis went out 9th & Stayed all night out Killed 9 buffalowmaney of the Buffalow Killed were So meager that they not fit for use Collected by the ade of Some horses the best of the meat in fact all we could Save from wolves & I went on a hunting party the 14 & 15 of Decr.—much Snow verry cold 52° below freesinge. N W. & H Bay Clerks Visit us the 16th also Mr Hainey, Cold Tem. 74° below freesing
Capt. Lewis went out on the 9th and stayed out all night, killing 9 buffalo. Many of the buffalo killed were so lean that they weren't fit for use. We collected what we could with the help of some horses; in fact, all the meat we could save from the wolves. I went on a hunting trip on the 14th and 15th of December. It was very snowy and extremely cold, 52° below freezing. The Northwest and Hudson Bay clerks visited us on the 16th, along with Mr. Hainey. The temperature was 74° below freezing.
I visit the Mandans on the 1s of January Capt Lewis the 2nd
I visit the Mandans on January 1st, Captain Lewis the 2nd.
[Clark, December 7, 1804]
7th of December Friday 1804 a verry Cold day wind from the N W. the Big White Grand Chief of the 1s Village, Came and informed us that a large Drove of Buffalow was near and his people was wating for us to join them in a Chase Capt. Lewis took 15 men & went out joined the Indians, who were at the time he got up, Killing the Buffalows on Horseback with arrows which they done with great dexterity, his party killed 14 Buffalow, five of which we got to the fort by the assistance of a horse in addition to what the men Packed on their backs—one Cow was killed on the ice after drawing her out of a vacancey in the ice in which She had fallen, and Butchered her at the fort—those we did not get in was taken by the indians under a Custon which is established amongst them i e. any person Seeing a buffalow lying without an arrow Sticking in him, or Some purticular mark takes possesion, many times (as I am told) a hunter who Kills maney Buffalow in a chase only Gets a part of one, all meat which is left out all night falls to the Wolves which are in great numbers, always in the Buffalows—the river Closed opposit the fort last night 11/2 inches thick The Thermometer Stood this morning at 1 d. below o- three men frost bit badly to day
7th of December, Friday, 1804. It was a really cold day with a northwest wind. The Big White Grand Chief of the first village came and told us that a large herd of buffalo was nearby, and his people were waiting for us to join them in a hunt. Captain Lewis took 15 men and went out to join the Indians, who had just started killing the buffalo on horseback with arrows, which they did with great skill. His party killed 14 buffalo, five of which we brought back to the fort with the help of a horse, in addition to what the men carried on their backs. One cow was killed on the ice after we pulled her out of a hole in the ice where she had fallen, and we butchered her at the fort. The ones we didn’t get were claimed by the Indians, following a custom they have, meaning any person who sees a buffalo lying down without an arrow stuck in it or a specific mark can take possession. I’ve heard that often a hunter who kills many buffalo in a chase only gets a part of one because any meat left out all night belongs to the wolves, which are plentiful around the buffalo. The river froze over in front of the fort last night, 1.5 inches thick. The thermometer this morning was at 1 degree below zero, and three men got badly frostbitten today.
[Clark, December 8, 1804]
8th December Satturday 1804 a verry Cold morning, the Thermometer Stood at 12 d. below 0 which is 42 d. below the freesing point, wind from the N W I with 15 men turned out Indians joined us on horseback, shot with arrows rode along side of buffaloel and killed 8 buffalow & one Deer, one Cow and Calf was brought in, two Cows which I killed at 7 miles Dst. I left 2 men to Skin & Keep off the wolves, and brought in one Cow & a calf, in the evening on my return to the fort Saw great numbers of Buffalow Comeing into the Bottoms on both Sides of the river This day being Cold Several men returned a little frost bit; one of men with his feet badly frost bit my Servents feet also frosted & his P-s a little, I feel a little fatigued haveing run after the Buffalow all day in Snow many Places 10 inches Deep, Generally 6 or 8, two men hurt their hips verry much in Slipping down—The Indians kill great numbers of Buffalow to day—2 reflectings Suns to day
8th December, Saturday, 1804. It was a very cold morning; the thermometer stood at 12 degrees below zero, which is 42 degrees below freezing. The wind was from the northwest. I had 15 men with me, and some Indians joined us on horseback. They shot arrows and rode alongside buffalo, killing 8 buffalo and 1 deer. One cow and calf were brought in, and I killed two cows at a distance of 7 miles. I left 2 men to skin them and keep off the wolves, and I brought in one cow and a calf. In the evening, on my return to the fort, I saw great numbers of buffalo coming into the bottoms on both sides of the river. Since it was a cold day, several men returned with a bit of frostbite; one man had badly frostbitten feet. My servant's feet also got frostbitten a little. I feel a bit fatigued after running after the buffalo all day in snow that was 10 inches deep in many places, and generally 6 to 8 inches deep. Two men hurt their hips quite a bit from slipping. The Indians killed a great number of buffalo today. There were 2 reflecting suns today.
[Clark, December 9, 1804]
9th December Sunday 1804 The Thermometer Stood this morning at 7° above 0, wind from the E. Capt Lewis took 18 men & 4 horses and went out Send in the meet killed yesterday and kill more, the Sun Shown to day Clear, both interpeters went to the Villages to day at 12 oClock two Chiefs Came loaded with meat one with a dog & Slay also loaded with meat, Capt. Lewis Sent in 4 Hors's loaded with meat, he continued at the hunting Camp near which they killed 9 buffalow.
9th December Sunday 1804 The thermometer read 7° above 0 this morning, with the wind coming from the east. Captain Lewis took 18 men and 4 horses and went out to send in the meat killed yesterday and to hunt more. The sun shone clearly today. Both interpreters went to the villages, and at 12 o'clock, two chiefs arrived, loaded with meat, one of them with a dog and sleigh also full of meat. Captain Lewis sent in 4 horses loaded with meat and stayed at the hunting camp, where they killed 9 buffalo.
[Clark, December 10, 1804]
10th Monday Decr. 1804 Fort Mandan a verry Cold Day The Thermometer to day at 10 & 11 Degrees below 0., Capt. Lewis returned, to day at 12 oClock leaveing 6 men at the Camp to prepare the meat for to pack 4 Horse loads Came in, Capt Lewis had a Cold Disagreeable night last in the Snow on a Cold point with one Small Blankett the Buffaloe Crossed the river below in emence herds without brakeing in. only 2 buffalow killed to day one of which was too pore to Skin, The men which was frost bit is gitting better. the rise 11/2 inch wind North
10th Monday Dec. 1804 Fort Mandan a very cold day. The thermometer today is at 10 & 11 degrees below 0. Capt. Lewis returned today at 12 o'clock, leaving 6 men at the camp to prepare the meat for packing 4 horse loads. He came in, having had a cold, uncomfortable night in the snow on a chilly point with just one small blanket. The buffalo crossed the river below in huge herds without breaking up. Only 2 buffalo were killed today, and one of them was too poor to skin. The men who had frostbite are getting better. The rise is 1.5 inches, wind from the north.
[Clark, December 11, 1804]
11th December Tuesday 1804 a verry Cold morning Wind from the north The Thermomettr at (4 oClock A M at 21°) Sunrise at 21° See list. below 0 which is 53° below the freesing point and getting colder, the Sun Shows and reflects two imigies, the ice floating in the atmespear being So thick that the appearance is like a fog Despurceing
11th December, Tuesday, 1804. A very cold morning with a wind from the north. The thermometer at 4 o'clock AM reads 21°. Sunrise at 21°; see list below, which is 53° below freezing point and getting colder. The sun shows and reflects two images, with the ice floating in the atmosphere being so thick that it appears like fog dispersing.
Sent out three horses for meat & with Derections for all the hunters to return to the fort as Soon as possible at 1 oClock the horses returned loaded at night all the hunters returned, Several a little frosted, The Black Cat Chief of the Mandans paid us a Visit to day continue Cold all day river at a Stand
Sent out three horses for meat and gave directions for all the hunters to return to the fort as soon as possible. At 1 o'clock, the horses returned loaded, and at night, all the hunters came back, several a bit frostbitten. The Black Cat, chief of the Mandans, paid us a visit today. It remained cold all day, and the river is at a standstill.
[Clark, December 12, 1804]
12th December Wednesday 1804 a Clear Cold morning wind from the north the Thormometer at Sun rise Stood at 38° below 0, moderated untill 6 oClock at which time it began to get Colder. I line my Gloves and have a cap made of the Skin of the Louservia (Lynx) (or wild Cat of the North) the fur near 3 inches long a Indian Of the Shoe nation Came with the half of a Cabra ko ka or Antilope which he killed near the Fort, Great numbers of those animnals are near our fort but the weather is So Cold that we do not think it prudent to turn out to hunt in Such Cold weather, or at least untill our Consts. are prepared to under go this Climate. I measure the river from bank to bank on the ice and make it 500 yards
12th December Wednesday 1804 a clear, cold morning with a wind from the north. The thermometer at sunrise stood at 38° below 0, warming up until 6 o'clock, at which point it started getting colder again. I lined my gloves and had a cap made from the skin of the louservia (lynx) (or wild cat of the north) with fur about 3 inches long. An Indian from the Shoe Nation came by with half of a cabra ko ka or antelope that he killed near the fort. There are a lot of those animals near our fort, but the weather is so cold that we don’t think it’s wise to go out hunting in such frigid conditions, or at least not until our bodies can handle this climate. I measured the river from bank to bank on the ice and found it to be 500 yards.
[Clark, December 13, 1804]
13th December Thursday 1804 The last night was verry Clear & the frost which fell Covered the ice old Snow & thos parts which was naked 1/6 of an inch, The Thermotr. Stands this morning at 20° below 0, a fine day. find it imposible to make an Observation with an artifical Horsison Joseph Fields kill a Cow and Calf to day one mile from the fort river falls
13th December Thursday 1804 The last night was very clear, and the frost that fell covered the ice and the old snow, along with the parts that were bare, with a layer of 1/6 of an inch. The thermometer reads this morning at 20° below 0; it's a nice day. I find it impossible to make an observation with an artificial horizon. Joseph Fields killed a cow and calf today, one mile from the fort by the river falls.
[Clark, December 14, 1804]
14th December Friday 1804 a fine morning. wind from the S. E. the murckerey Stood at '0' this morning I went with a party of men down the river 18 miles to hunt Buffalow, Saw two Bulls too pore to kill, the Cows and large gangues haveing left the River, we only killed two Deer & Camped all night with Some expectation of Seeing the Buffalow in the morning, a verry Cold night, Snowed.
14th December Friday 1804 a fine morning. Wind from the southeast. The mercury was at '0' this morning. I went with a group of men down the river 18 miles to hunt buffalo. We saw two bulls that were too lean to kill; the cows and large herds had left the river. We only killed two deer and camped all night, hoping to see the buffalo in the morning. It was a very cold night, and it snowed.
[Clark, December 15, 1804]
15th of December 1804 Satturday a Cold Clear morning, Saw no buffalow, I concluded to return to the Fort & hunt on each Side of the river on our return which we did without Success—the Snow fell 11/2 inches deep last night. wind North- on my return to the fort found Several Chiefs there
15th of December 1804, Saturday, a cold, clear morning. I didn’t see any buffalo, so I decided to head back to the fort and hunt on each side of the river on the way back, which we did, but had no luck. It had snowed 1.5 inches overnight. The wind was coming from the north. On my return to the fort, I found several chiefs there.
[Clark, December 16, 1804]
Fort Mandan 16th December, Sunday 1804 a clear Cold morning, the Thermtr. at Sun rise Stood at 22° below 0, a verry Singaler appearance of the Moon last night, as She appeared thro The frosty atmispear—Mr. Henny, from the Establishment on River Ossinnniboin, with a letter from, Mr Charles Chaboillez one of the Cos arrived in 6 Days, Mr. C in his letters expressed a great anxiety to Serve us in any thing in his power-
Fort Mandan, December 16th, Sunday, 1804: a clear, cold morning. The thermometer at sunrise stood at 22° below zero. There was a very strange appearance of the moon last night as it shone through the frosty atmosphere. Mr. Henny, from the establishment on the River Ossinniboin, arrived with a letter from Mr. Charles Chaboillez, one of the company members. Mr. C, in his letters, expressed a strong desire to help us in any way he could.
a root Discribed by Mr. Henry for the Cure of a Mad Dog
Mr. Le rock a Clerk, of the N W Company and Mr. George Bunch a Clerk of the Hudsons bay Compy accompanied Mr. Henny from the Village
Mr. Le, a clerk of the Northwest Company, and Mr. George Bunch, a clerk of the Hudson's Bay Company, accompanied Mr. Henny from the village.
[Clark, December 17, 1804]
17th December Monday 1804 a verry Cold morning the Thrmt. Stood a 43° below 0. We found Mr. Henny a verry intelligent man from whome we obtained Some Scetches of the Countrey between the Mississippi & Missouri, and Some Sketches from him, which he had obtained from the Indins. to the West of this place also the names and charecktors of the Sceoux &c about 8 oClock P M. the thermometer fell to 74° below the freesing pointe—the Indian Chiefs Sent word that Buffalow was in our neighbourhood, and if we would join them, in the morning they would go and kill them-
17th December, Monday, 1804, a very cold morning; the thermometer stood at 43° below 0. We met Mr. Henny, a very knowledgeable man from whom we got some sketches of the land between the Mississippi and Missouri, as well as some sketches he had gathered from the Indians to the west of this place. He also shared the names and characteristics of the Sioux, etc. Around 8 PM, the thermometer dropped to 74° below freezing. The Indian chiefs sent word that buffalo were in our area, and if we would join them in the morning, they would go out and hunt them.
[Clark, December 18, 1804]
18th December Tuesday 1804 The Themometer the Same as last night Mr. Haney & La Rocke left us for the Grossventre Camp, Sent out 7 men to hunt for the Buffalow They found the weather too cold & returned, Several Indians Came, who had Set out with a veiw to Kill buffalow, The river rise a little I imploy my Self makeing a Small map of Connection &. Sent Jessomme to the Main Chief of the mandans to know the Cause of his detaining or takeing a horse of Chabonoe our big belly interpeter, which we found was thro the rascallity of one Lafrance a trader from the N W. Company, who told this Cheif that Chabonah owd. him a horse to go and take him he done So agreeable to an indian Custom—he gave up the horse
18th December, Tuesday, 1804 The temperature is the same as last night. Mr. Haney and La Rocke left us for the Grossventre Camp. I sent out 7 men to hunt for buffalo, but they found the weather too cold and returned. Several Indians came, who had set out with the intention of hunting buffalo. The river rose a little. I occupied myself by making a small map of the area. I sent Jessomme to the main chief of the Mandans to find out why he was holding or taking a horse from Chabonoe, our big belly interpreter. We discovered it was due to the trickery of one Lafrance, a trader from the Northwest Company, who told the chief that Chabon owed him a horse, so he took it, following an Indian custom—he gave up the horse.
[Clark, December 19, 1804]
19th December Wednesday 1804 The wind from S. W. the weather moderated a little, I engage my self in Connecting the Countrey from information. river rise a little
19th December Wednesday 1804 The wind from the southwest; the weather got a bit milder. I spent my time connecting the country based on the information I gathered. The river rose slightly.
[Clark, December 20, 1804]
20th December Thursday 1804 The wind from the N W a moderate day, the Thermometr 37° above 0, which givs an oppertunity of putting up our pickets next the river, nothing remarkable took place to Day river fall a little
20th December Thursday 1804 The wind from the N W a moderate day, the Thermometer 37° above 0, which gives an opportunity of putting up our pickets next to the river, nothing remarkable took place today river fell a little
[Clark, December 21, 1804]
21st December Friday 1804 a fine Day worm and wind from the N W by W, the Indian whome I stoped from Commiting murder on his wife, thro jellousy of one of our interpeters, Came & brought his two wives and Showed great anxiety to make up with the man with whome his joulassey Sprung—a womin brought a Child with an abcess on the lower part of the back, and offered as much corn as She Could carry for Some medison, Capt Lewis administered &c.
21st December Friday 1804 a nice day, warm and windy from the NW by W. The Indian I stopped from murdering his wife out of jealousy over one of our interpreters came and brought his two wives, showing great concern about reconciling with the man over whom his jealousy arose. A woman brought a child with an abscess on the lower part of the back and offered as much corn as she could carry for some medicine. Capt Lewis administered, etc.
[Clark, December 22, 1804]
22nd December Satturday 1804 a number of Squars womn & men Dressed in Squars Clothes Came with Corn to Sell to the men for little things, we precured two horns of the animale the french Call the rock mountain Sheep those horns are not of the largest kind—The mandans Indians Call this Sheep Ar-Sar-ta it is about the Size of a large Deer, or Small Elk, its Horns Come out and wind around the head like the horn of a Ram and the teckere not unlike it much larger and thicker perticelarly that part with which they but or outer part which is ____ inchs thick, the length of those horns, which we have is
22nd December, Saturday, 1804. A number of traders, both men and women, dressed in traditional clothing, came to sell corn to the men for small items. We acquired two horns from an animal the French call the Rocky Mountain sheep. These horns are not the largest type. The Mandan Indians refer to this sheep as Ar-Sar-ta. It is about the size of a large deer or a small elk. Its horns curve around the head like a ram's. The horns of the larger version are much bigger and thicker, especially at the part they use to butt, which is ____ inches thick. The length of the horns we have is
[Clark, December 23, 1804]
23rd December Sunday 1804 a fine Day great numbers of indians of all discriptions Came to the fort many of them bringing Corn to trade, the little Crow, loadd. his wife & Sun with corn for us, Cap. Lewis gave him a few presents as also his wife, She made a Kettle of boild Simnins, beens, Corn & Choke Cherris with the Stones which was paletable
23rd December Sunday 1804 a nice day, a large number of Indians of all types came to the fort, many of them bringing corn to trade. The little Crow loaded his wife and son with corn for us. Captain Lewis gave him and his wife a few gifts. She made a kettle of boiled simnins, beans, corn, and chokecherries with the stones, which was tasty.
This Dish is Considered, as a treat among those people, The Chiefs of the Mandans are fond of Stayin & Sleeping in the fort
This dish is seen as a delicacy among those people. The chiefs of the Mandans enjoy staying and sleeping in the fort.
[Clark, December 24, 1804]
24 December Monday 1804 Several Chiefs and members of men womin and Children at the fort to day, Some for trade, the most as lookers on, we gave a fellet of Sheep Skin (which we brought for Spunging) to 3 Chiefs one to each of 2 inches wide, which they lay great value (priseing those felets equal to a fine horse), a fine Day we finished the pickingen around our works
24 December Monday 1804 Several chiefs and members of men, women, and children were at the fort today. Some came for trading, while most were just observing. We gave a piece of sheepskin (which we brought for sponging) to 3 chiefs, one to each, 2 inches wide. They valued these pieces highly, considering them equal to a fine horse. It was a beautiful day, and we finished the picking around our works.
[Clark, December 25, 1804]
25th December Christmass Tuesday I was awakened before Day by a discharge of 3 platoons from the Party and the french, the men merrily Disposed, I give them all a little Taffia and permited 3 Cannon fired, at raising Our flag, Some men went out to hunt & the Others to Danceing and Continued untill 9 oClock P, M, when the frolick ended &c.
25th December Christmas Tuesday I was awakened before dawn by a discharge from 3 platoons of the Party and the French. The men were in high spirits. I gave them all a little Taffia and allowed 3 cannons to fire at the raising of our flag. Some men went out to hunt, while others went dancing and continued until 9 o'clock PM, when the fun ended, etc.
[Clark, December 26, 1804]
26th Decr. Wednesday 1804 a temperate day no Indians to day or yesterday. A man from the N W Company Came Down from the Gross Vintres to Get one of our interpeters to assist them in trade This man informed that the Party of Gross Ventres who persued the Ossinboins that Stold their horses, has all returned in their usial way by Small parties, the last of the party bringing 8 horses which they Stole from a Camp of Asniboins which they found on Mouse river-
26th Dec. Wednesday 1804 a mild day, no Indians today or yesterday. A man from the N W Company came down from the Gros Ventre to get one of our interpreters to help them with trade. This man informed us that the party of Gros Ventres who pursued the Assiniboins that stole their horses has all returned in their usual way, in small groups, with the last group bringing back 8 horses that they stole from a camp of Assiniboins they found on Mouse River.
[Clark, December 27, 1804]
27th December 1804 Thursday a little fine Snow weather something Colder than yesterday Several Indians here to Day, much Surprised at the Bellos & method of makeing Sundery articles of Iron wind hard from the N W.
27th December 1804 Thursday a bit of light snow, colder than yesterday. Several Indians here today, very surprised by the bells and the way we make various iron items. The wind is blowing hard from the northwest.
[Clark, December 28, 1804]
28th of December Friday 1804 blew verry hard last night, the frost fell like a Shower of Snow, nothing remarkable to day, the Snow Drifting from one bottom to another and from the leavel plains into the hollows &c
28th of December Friday 1804 blew very hard last night, the frost fell like a shower of snow, nothing remarkable today, the snow drifting from one bottom to another and from the flat plains into the hollows, etc.
[Clark, December 29, 1804]
29th December Satturday 1804 The frost fell last night nearly a 1/4 of an inch Deep and Continud to fall untill the Sun was of Some bite, the Murcurey Stood this morning at 9 d below 0 which is not considered Cold, as the Changes take place gradually without long intermitions
29th December Saturday 1804 The frost fell last night to nearly a quarter of an inch deep and continued to fall until the sun warmed things up a bit. The mercury stood this morning at 9 degrees below 0, which isn’t considered cold, as the changes happen gradually without long breaks.
a number of Indians here
[Clark, December 30, 1804]
30th December Sunday 1804 Cold the Termtr. at 20 d below 0 a number of Indians here to day they are much Supprised at the Bellows one Deer Killed
30th December Sunday 1804 Cold, the temperature at 20 degrees below 0. A number of Indians here today; they are very surprised at the bellows. One deer killed.
[Clark, December 31, 1804]
Fort Mandan 31st of December Monday 1804 a fine Day Some wind last night which mixed the Snow and Sand in the bend of the river, which has the appearance of hillocks of Sand on the ice, which is also Covered with Sand & Snow, the feost which falls in the night continues on the earth & old Snow &c. &c.—a Number of indians here every Day our blckSmitth mending their axes hoes &c. &c. for which the Squars bring Corn for payment
Fort Mandan, December 31, 1804, Monday. It was a nice day. There was some wind last night that mixed the snow and sand in the river bend, making it look like little hills of sand on the ice, which is also covered with sand and snow. The frost that falls at night stays on the ground along with the old snow. A number of Indians are here every day, and our blacksmith is repairing their axes, hoes, etc., for which the women bring corn as payment.
[Clark, January 1, 1805]
Fort Mandan on the N E bank of the Missouries 1600 miles up January the 1st 1805 Tuesday The Day was ushered in by the Discharge of two Cannon, we Suffered 16 men with their musick to visit the 1st Village for the purpose of Danceing, by as they Said the perticular request of the Chiefs of that village, about 11 oClock I with an inturpeter & two men walked up to the Village (my views were to alay Some little miss understanding which had taken place thro jelloucy and mortificatiion as to our treatment towards them) I found them much pleased at the Danceing of our men, I ordered my black Servent to Dance which amused the Croud verry much, and Some what astonished them, that So large a man Should be active &c. &.
Fort Mandan on the northeast bank of the Missouri, 1600 miles upstream January 1st, 1805, Tuesday The day began with the firing of two cannons. We sent 16 men with their music to visit the first village for a dance, as the chiefs of that village specifically requested. Around 11 o'clock, I went to the village with an interpreter and two men because I wanted to clear up some misunderstandings that had arisen from jealousy and frustration regarding our treatment of them. I found the villagers pleased with the dancing of our men. I had my Black servant dance, which entertained the crowd a great deal and somewhat surprised them that such a large man could be so agile, etc.
I went into the lodges of all the men of note except two, whome I heard had made Some expressions not favourable towards us, in Compareing us with the trabers from the north—Those Cheifs observed what they Sayed was in just & lafture.—just as I was about to return the 2d Chief and the Black man, also a Chief returnd from a mission on which they had been Sent to meet a large party 150 of Gross Ventres who were on their way down from their Camps 10 Miles above to revenge on the Shoe tribe an injurey which they had received by a Shoe man Steeling a Gross Venters Girl, those Chiefs gave the pipe turned the party back, after Delivering up the girl, which the Shoe Chief had taken and given to them for that purpose. I returned in the evening, at night the party except 6 returned, with 3 robes, an 13 Strings of Corn which the indians had given them, The Day was worm, Themtr. 34° abov 0, Some fiew Drops of rain about Sunset, at Dark it began to Snow, and Snowed the greater part of the night, (the temptr for Snow is about o) The Black Cat with his family visited us to day and brought a little meet
I visited the lodges of all the notable men except for two, who I heard had made some unfriendly comments about us, comparing us to the traders from the north. Those chiefs claimed that what they said was fair and fun. Just as I was about to leave, the second chief and the Black man, who is also a chief, returned from a mission they had undertaken to meet a large group of 150 Gros Ventre who were coming down from their camps 10 miles upstream to take revenge on the Shoe tribe for an injury they had suffered when a Shoe man stole a Gros Ventre girl. The chiefs offered a peace pipe and turned the party back after returning the girl, who the Shoe chief had taken and given to them for that purpose. I returned in the evening; that night, the party, except for six, came back with three robes and 13 strings of corn that the Indians had given them. The day was warm, with a temperature of 34° above 0. There were a few drops of rain around sunset, and at night it started to snow, snowing for most of the night (the temperature for snow is around 0). The Black Cat and his family visited us today and brought a little meat.
[Clark, January 2, 1805]
2nd of January Wednesdey 1805 a Snowey morning a party of men go to Dance at the 2nd Village to Dance, Capt Lewis & the interptr visit the 2d Village, and return in the evening, Some Snow to Day verry Cold in the evining
2nd of January Wednesday 1805 a snowy morning a group of men went to dance at the 2nd Village to dance, Capt Lewis & the interpreter visited the 2nd Village, and returned in the evening. Some snow today, very cold in the evening.
[Clark, January 3, 1805]
3rd of January Thursday 1805 Soome Snow to day; 8 men go to hunt the buffalow, killed a hare & wolf Several Indians visit us to day & a Gross Ventre came after his wife, who had been much abused, & come here for Protection.
3rd of January Thursday 1805 Some snow today; 8 men went to hunt buffalo, killed a hare and a wolf. Several Indians visited us today, and a Gros Ventre man came to get his wife, who had been mistreated, and came here for protection.
[Clark, January 4, 1805]
Fort Mandan 4th of January Friday 1805 a worm Snowey morning, the Themtr. at 28° abov 0, Cloudy, Sent out 3 men to hunt down the river, Several Indians Came today the little Crow, who has proved friendly Came we gave him a handkerchf & 2 files, in the evening the weather became cold and windey, wind from the N W. I am verry unwell the after part of the Daye
Fort Mandan, January 4th, Friday, 1805. It was a chilly, snowy morning, with the temperature at 28°F. It was cloudy. I sent out three men to hunt down by the river. Several Indians visited today, including Little Crow, who has been friendly. We gave him a handkerchief and two files. In the evening, the weather got colder and windier, with the wind coming from the northwest. I felt very unwell for the latter part of the day.
[Clark, January 5, 1805]
5th of January Satturday 1805 a cold day Some Snow, Several Indians visit us with thier axes to get them mended, I imploy my Self drawing a Connection of the Countrey from what information I have recved—a Buffalow Dance (or Medison) for 3 nights passed in the 1st Village, a curious Custom the old men arrange themselves in a circle & after Smoke a pipe, which is handed them by a young man, Dress up for the purpose, the young men who have their wives back of the circle go to one of the old men with a whining tone and request the old man to take his wife (who presents necked except a robe) and—the Girl then takes the Old man (who verry often can Scercely walk) and leades him to a Convenient place for the business, after which they return to the lodge, if the Old man (or a white man) returns to the lodge without gratifying the man & his wife, he offers her again and again; it is often the Case that after the 2d time without Kissing the Husband throws a nice robe over the old man & and begs him not to dispise him, & his wife (we Sent a man to this Medisan last night, they gave him 4 Girls) all this is to cause the buffalow to Come near So that They may kill thim 2
5th of January, Saturday 1805, a cold day with some snow. Several Native Americans visit us with their axes to get them fixed. I occupy myself drawing a map of the area based on the information I’ve received—a Buffalo Dance (or Medicine) has been happening for three nights in the first village. It’s a curious custom: the old men form a circle and, after smoking a pipe handed to them by a young man dressed for the occasion, the young men, whose wives stand behind the circle, approach one of the old men in a whiny tone and ask him to take his wife (who is dressed only in a robe). The girl then takes the old man, who often can barely walk, to a suitable spot for the act, after which they return to the lodge. If the old man (or a white man) comes back to the lodge without pleasing the husband and his wife, he offers her again and again; it’s common that after the second time without a kiss, the husband throws a nice robe over the old man and begs him not to disrespect him and his wife. We sent a man to this Medicine last night, and they gave him four girls. All of this is meant to attract the buffalo so they can kill them.
[Clark, January 6, 1805] 6th of January Sunday 1805 a Cold day but fiew indians to day I am ingaged as yesterday
[Clark, January 6, 1805] 6th of January Sunday 1805 A cold day, but very few Indians today. I'm engaged as I was yesterday.
[Clark, January 7, 1805]
7th of January Monday 1805 Fort Mandan a verry Cold clear Day, the Themtr Stood at 22 d below 0 wind N W., the river fell 1 inch Several indians returned from hunting, one of them the Big White Chef of the Lower Mandan Village, Dined With us, and gave me a Scetch of the Countrey as far as the high mountains, & on the South Side of the River Rejone, he Says that the river rejone recves 6 Small rivers on the S. Side, & that the Countrey is verry hilley and the greater part Covered with timber, Great numbers of beaver &c.—the 3 men returned from hunting, they kill'd 4 Deer & 2 wolves, Saw Buffalow a long ways off, I continue to Draw a connected plote from the information of Traders, Indians & my own observation & idea—from the best information, the Great falls is about 800 miles nearly west,-
7th of January, Monday, 1805 Fort Mandan It was a very cold, clear day. The temperature was 22 degrees below zero with a northwest wind. The river level dropped by an inch. Several Indians returned from hunting, including the Big White Chief of the Lower Mandan Village, who dined with us and provided me with a sketch of the area up to the high mountains. He mentioned that the Rejone River receives six small rivers on the south side and that the land is very hilly, mostly covered in timber, with a large number of beavers and other wildlife. The three men who went hunting returned with four deer and two wolves; they also spotted buffalo in the distance. I continue to create a connected plot based on information from traders, Indians, and my own observations and ideas. According to the best information, the Great Falls is about 800 miles nearly west.
[Clark, January 8, 1805]
8th of January Tuesday 1805 a Cold Day but fiew indians at the fort to day wind from the N, W, one man at the Village
8th of January, Tuesday, 1805: A cold day, but few Indians at the fort today. Wind from the northwest; one man at the village.
[Clark, January 9, 1805]
9th of January Wednesday 1805 A Cold Day Themometer at 21° below 0, Great numbers of indians go to Kill Cows, the little Crow Brackft. with us, Several Indians Call at the Fort nearly frosed, one man reported that he had Sent his Son a Small boy to the fort about 3 oClock, & was much distressed at not finding him here, the after part of this day verry Cold, and wind Keen
9th of January, Wednesday 1805 A cold day, thermometer at 21° below 0. A lot of Indians went to kill cows. The little crow had breakfast with us. Several Indians stopped by the fort, almost frozen. One man reported that he had sent his son, a small boy, to the fort around 3 o'clock and was very worried about not finding him here. The latter part of the day was very cold, and the wind was sharp.
[Clark, January 10, 1805]
10th Of January 1805 This morning a boy of 13 years of age Came to the fort with his feet frozed, haveing Stayed out all night without fire, with no other Covering than a Small Robe goat skin leagens & a pr. Buffalow Skin mockersons—The Murcery Stood at 72° below the freesing point—Several others Stayed out all night not in the least hurt, This boy lost his Toes only-
10th Of January 1805 This morning, a 13-year-old boy came to the fort with frostbitten feet. He had stayed out all night without a fire, with nothing but a small goat skin robe and a pair of buffalo skin moccasins. The mercury was at 72° below freezing. Several others had also stayed out all night and were not hurt in the least; this boy only lost his toes.
[Clark, January 10, 1805]
10th of January Thursday 1805 last night was excessively Cold the murkery this morning Stood at 40° below 0 which is 72° below the freesing point, we had one man out last night, who returned about 8 oClock this morning The Indians of the lower Villages turned out to hunt for a man & a boy who had not returnd from the hunt of yesterday, and borrowd a Slay to bring them in expecting to find them frosed to death about 10 oclock the boy about 13 years of age Came to the fort with his feet frosed and had layen out last night without fire with only a Buffalow Robe to Cover him, the Dress which he wore was a pr of Cabra Legins, which is verry thin and mockersons—we had his feet put in Cold water and they are Comeing too- Soon after the arrival of the Boy, a man Came in who had also Stayed out without fire, and verry thinly Clothed, this man was not the least injured Customs & the habits of those people has ancered to bare more Cold than I thought it possible for man to indure
10th of January Thursday 1805 last night was extremely cold; the mercury this morning stood at 40° below 0, which is 72° below freezing. We had one man out last night who returned around 8 o'clock this morning. The Indians from the lower villages went out to search for a man and a boy who hadn’t returned from yesterday’s hunt and borrowed a sleigh to bring them back, expecting to find them frozen to death. Around 10 o'clock, the boy, about 13 years old, arrived at the fort with frostbite on his feet. He had spent the night outside without a fire, covered only by a buffalo robe. The clothing he wore consisted of a pair of thin cabra leggings and moccasins. We put his feet in cold water, and they are recovering. Soon after the boy's arrival, a man came in who had also stayed out without a fire and was very lightly clothed; this man was not harmed at all. The customs and habits of these people have allowed them to endure more cold than I thought was possible for a person to withstand.
Send out 3 men to hunt Elk below about 7 miles
[Clark, January 11, 1805]
11th January Friday 1805 verry Cold, Send out 3 men to join 3 now below & hunt,
11th January Friday 1805 very cold. Sent out 3 men to join the 3 below and go hunting.
Pose-cop se ha or Black Cat came to See us and Stay all night
Sho sa har ro ra or Coal also Stayd all night, the inturpeter oldst wife Sick, Some of our men go to See a war medison made at the village on the opposit Side of the river, this is a
Sho sa har ro ra or Coal also stayed all night, the interpreter's oldest wife was sick. Some of our men went to see a war medicine made at the village on the opposite side of the river. This is a
[Clark, January 12, 1805]
Fort Manden 12th of January Satturday 1805 a verry Cold Day three of our hunters J. & R Fields withe 2 Elk on a Slay Sent one more hunter out.
Fort Manden, January 12th, Saturday, 1805 - a very cold day. Three of our hunters, J. and R. Fields, returned with 2 elk on a sled. We sent one more hunter out.
[Clark, January 13, 1805]
13th of January Sunday (1805) a Cold Clear Day (great number of Indians move Down the River to hunt) those people Kill a number of Buffalow near their Villages and Save a great perpotion of the meat, their Custom of makeing this article of life General leaves them more than half of their time without meat Their Corn & Beans &c they Keep for the Summer, and as a reserve in Case of an attack from the Soues, which they are always in dread, and Sildom go far to hunt except in large parties, about 1/2 the Mandan nation passed this to day to hunt on the river below, they will Stay out Some Days, Mr. Chabonee (our inturpeter) and one man that accompanied him to Some loges of the Minatarees near the Turtle Hill returned, both frosed in their faces.
13th of January Sunday (1805) a cold clear day (a large number of Indians move down the river to hunt) these people kill several buffalo near their villages and save a lot of the meat. Their practice of making this resource generally leaves them without meat for more than half of their time. They keep their corn, beans, etc., for the summer and as a reserve in case of an attack from the Sioux, which they always fear, and rarely go far to hunt unless in large groups. About half of the Mandan nation passed by today to hunt on the river below; they will stay out for a few days. Mr. Chabonee (our interpreter) and one man who accompanied him to some lodges of the Minatare near Turtle Hill returned, both frostbitten on their faces.
Chaboneu informs that the Clerk of the Hudsons Bay Co. with the Me ne tar res has been Speaking Some fiew expressns. unfavourable towards us, and that it is Said the N W Co. intends building a fort at the Mene tar re's—he Saw the Grand Chief of the Big bellies who Spoke Slightly of the Americans, Saying if we would give our great flag to him he would Come to See us.
Chaboneu reports that the Clerk of the Hudson's Bay Company with the Metis has been saying a few negative things about us, and that it’s rumored the Northwest Company plans to build a fort at the Metis—he met with the Grand Chief of the Big Bellies, who mentioned the Americans disrespectfully, saying that if we gave him our great flag, he would come to see us.
[Clark, January 14, 1805]
14th of January 1805 Monday This morning early a number of indians men womin children Dogs &c & passed down on the ice to joine those that passed yesterday, we Sent Sergt Pryor and five men with those indians to hunt one of our hunters Sent out Several days arived & informs that one Man (Whitehouse) is frost bit and Can't walk home-
14th of January 1805 Monday This morning early, several Native American men, women, children, and dogs crossed the ice to join those who passed yesterday. We sent Sergeant Pryor and five men with those Native Americans to search for one of our hunters. One man (Whitehouse) who was sent out several days ago arrived and informed us that he has frostbite and can't walk home.
[Clark, January 15, 1805]
Fort Mandan 15th January Tuesday 1805 between 12 & 3 oClock this morning we had a total eclips of the moon, a part of the observations necessary for our purpose in this eclips we got which is at 12h 57m 54s Total Darkness of the moon @ 1 44 00 End of total Darkness of This moon @ 2 39 10 End of the eclips-
Fort Mandan, January 15th, Tuesday, 1805. Between 12 and 3 o'clock this morning, we experienced a total eclipse of the moon. We took some observations we needed for our research during this eclipse: the total darkness of the moon started at 12:57:54 and ended at 1:44:00. The end of the total darkness was at 2:39:10, marking the end of the eclipse.
This morning not So Cold as yesterday wind from the S. E. wind choped around to the N W. Still temperate four Considerate men of the Minetarre Came to See us we Smoked in the pipe, maney mands. present also, we Showed to those men who had been impressed with an unfavourable oppinion of us.
This morning wasn't as cold as yesterday, with the wind coming from the southeast and then shifting to the northwest. It was still mild. Four thoughtful men from the Minetaree visited us, and we shared the pipe with many others present. We also showed those men who had a negative opinion of us that we meant no harm.
[Clark, January 16, 1805]
16th January Wednesday 1805 about thirty Mandans Came to the fort to day, 6 Chiefs. Those Me ne to rees told them they were liars, had told them if they came to the fort the whites men would kill them, they had been with them all night, Smoked in the pipe and have been treated well and the whites had danced for them, observing the Mandans were bad and ought to hide themselves- one of the 1st War Chiefs of the big belles nation Came to See us to day with one man and his Squar to wate on him we Shot the Air gun, and gave two Shots with the Cannon which pleased them verry much, the little Crow 2d Chf of the lower village came & brought us Corn &. 4 men of ours who had been hunting returned one frost'd
January 16, Wednesday, 1805. About thirty Mandans came to the fort today, including 6 chiefs. The men from the Me ne to rees told them they were liars, claiming they had said that if they came to the fort, the white men would kill them. They had stayed with them all night, smoked from the pipe, and were treated well, with the whites dancing for them. They pointed out that the Mandans were bad and should hide themselves. One of the main war chiefs from the Big Belles nation visited us today with one man and his wife to wait on him. We shot the air gun and fired two shots with the cannon, which really pleased them. The little Crow, the 2nd chief of the lower village, came and brought us corn, and 4 of our men who had been hunting returned, frostbitten.
This war Chief gave us a Chart in his way of the Missourie, he informed us of his intentions of going to war in the Spring against the Snake Indians we advised him to look back at the number of nations who had been distroyed by war, and reflect upon what he was about to do, observing if he wished the hapiness of his nation, he would be at peace with all, by that by being at peace and haveing plenty of goods amongst them & a free intercourse with those defenceless nations, they would get on easy terms a great Number of horses, and that nation would increas, if he went to war against those Defenceless people, he would displease his great father, and he would not receive that pertection & Care from him as other nations who listened to his word—This Chief who is a young man 26 yr. old replied that if his going to war against the Snake indians would be displeasing to us he would not go, he had horses enough.
This war chief showed us a map of the Missouri and told us about his plans to go to war in the spring against the Snake Indians. We advised him to consider the many nations that had been destroyed by war and to think carefully about what he was about to do. We pointed out that if he wanted the happiness of his nation, he should be at peace with everyone. By being at peace and having plenty of goods among them, along with open trade with those defenseless nations, they could easily acquire many horses, and his nation would grow. If he went to war against those defenseless people, he would anger his great father and wouldn’t receive the protection and care that other nations got by listening to his advice. The chief, who is a young man of 26, replied that if going to war against the Snake Indians would upset us, he wouldn’t go, as he already had enough horses.
we observed that what we had Said was the words of his Great father, and what we had Spoken to all the nations which we Saw on our passage up, they all promis to open their ears and we do not know as yet if any of them has Shut them (we are doubtfull of the Souxs) if they do not attend to what we have told them their great father will open their ears—This Cheif Said that he would advise all his nation to Stay at home untill we Saw the Snake Indians & Knew if they would be friendly, he himself would attend to what we had told him
We noticed that what we said were the words of his great father, and what we spoke to all the nations we encountered on our journey, they all promised to listen. We still don’t know if any of them have chosen not to listen (we are unsure about the Sioux). If they ignore what we’ve told them, their great father will make them listen. This chief said he would advise his entire nation to stay home until we saw the Snake Indians and knew if they would be friendly; he himself would pay attention to what we had told him.
[Clark, January 17, 1805]
17th January Thursday 1805 a verry windey morning hard from the North Thermometer at 0, Several Indians here to day
17th January Thursday 1805 a very windy morning blowing hard from the North Thermometer at 0, Several Indians here today
[Clark, January 18, 1805]
18th January Friday 1805 a fine worm morning, Mr. La Rock & McKinzey Came down to See us with them Several of the Grosse Venrees.
18th January Friday 1805 a fine warm morning, Mr. La Rock & McKinzey came down to see us with several of the Grosse Venrees.
[Clark, January 19, 1805]
19th January Satturday 1805. a find Day Messrs. Larock & McKinzey returned home, Sent three horses down to our hunting Camp for the meet they had killed, Jussoms Squar, left him and went to the Village
19th January Saturday 1805. A nice day. Messrs. Larock & McKinzey returned home and sent three horses down to our hunting camp for the meat they had killed. Jussoms Square left him and went to the village.
[Clark, January 20, 1805]
20th a Cold fair day Several Indians at the fort to day a miss understanding took place between the two inturpeters on account of their Squars, one of the Squars of Shabownes Squars being Sick, I ordered my Servent to, give her Some froot Stewed and tee at dift Tims which was the Cause of the misundstd
20th: A cold, fair day. Several Indians at the fort today. A misunderstanding occurred between the two interpreters because of their squaws. One of the squaws of Shabowne's squaws was sick, so I ordered my servant to give her some fruit stewed and tea at different times, which was the cause of the misunderstanding.
[Clark, January 21, 1805]
Fort Mandan 21st Monday January 1805 a number of Indians hereto day a fine day nothing remarkable one ban verry bad with the pox
Fort Mandan 21st Monday January 1805 a number of Indians here today a nice day nothing remarkable one band very sick with the smallpox
[Clark, January 22, 1805]
22nd January 1805 Tuesday a find warm Day attempted to Cut the Boat & the perogues out of the Ice, found water at about 8 inches under the 1st Ice, the next thickness about 3 feet
22nd January 1805 Tuesday a fairly warm day tried to cut the boat & the canoes out of the ice, found water about 8 inches beneath the first ice, the next layer was about 3 feet thick.
[Clark, January 23, 1805]
23rd January 1805 Wednesday a Cold Day Snow fell 4 Inches deep, the occurrences of this day is as is common
23rd January 1805 Wednesday a Cold Day Snow fell 4 Inches deep, the occurrences of this day is as is common
[Clark, January 24, 1805]
24th January Thursday 1805 a fine day, our inturpeters appear to understand each others better than a fiew days past Sent out Several hunters, they returned without killing any thing, Cut Coal wood
24th January Thursday 1805 a nice day, our interpreters seem to understand each other better than a few days ago. Sent out several hunters; they returned without killing anything. Cut coal wood.
[Clark, January 25, 1805]
25th of January 1805 Friday we are informed of the arrival of a Band of Asniboins at the Villages with the Grand Cheif of those Tribes call the (Fee de petite veau) to trade, one of our interpeter & one man Set out to the Big Belley Camp opposit the Island men employ'd in Cutting the Boat out of the ice, and Collecting Coal wood.
25th of January 1805, Friday: We hear that a group of Asniboins has arrived at the villages with their Grand Chief, known as (Fee de petite veau), to trade. One of our interpreters and one man set out to the Big Belly Camp across from the island, while others are busy cutting the boat out of the ice and gathering firewood.
[Clark, January 26, 1805]
26th of January Satturday 1805 a verry fine warm Day Several Indians Dine with us and are much Pleased—one man taken violently Bad with the Plurisee, Bleed & apply those remedeis Common to that disorder.
26th of January Saturday 1805 a very nice warm day Several Indians dined with us and are very pleased—one man taken very ill with pleurisy, bled & applied those remedies common to that disorder.
[Lewis, January 26, 1805]
Saturday January 26th 1805 Observed Meridian Altitude of sun's U. L. with sextant and artificl. Horzn. of water 48° 50 Latitude deduced from this observatn. N. 47 21 47
Saturday January 26th 1805 Observed Meridian Altitude of sun's U. L. with sextant and artificial horizon of water 48° 50 Latitude deduced from this observation N. 47 21 47
[Clark, January 27, 1805]
27th of January Sunday 1804 a fine day, attempt to Cut our Boat and Canoos out of the Ice, a deficuelt Task I fear as we find waters between the Ice, I Bleed the man with the Plurisy to day & Swet him, Capt Lewis took of the Toes of one foot of the Boy who got frost bit Some time ago, Shabonoe our interpeter returned, & informed that the Assiniboins had returned to their Camps, & brough 3 horses of Mr. Laroches to Stay here for fear of their being Stolen by the Assiniboins who are great rogues—Cut off the boy toes
27th of January, Sunday, 1804: It’s a nice day. We tried to get our boat and canoes out of the ice, which is a difficult task since we’ve found water between the ice. I bled the man with pleurisy today and sweat him out. Captain Lewis removed the frostbitten toes from the boy's foot. Our interpreter, Shabonoe, returned and informed us that the Assiniboins had gone back to their camps and brought three of Mr. Laroche's horses to stay here because they were worried about them being stolen by the Assiniboins, who are quite the rogues. We cut off the boy's toes.
[Clark, January 28, 1805]
28th January Monday 1805 attempt to cut through the ice &c get our Boat and Canoo out without Suckcess, Several Indians here wishing to get war hatchets made this shape the man Sick yesterday is getting well Mr. Jessome our interpeter was taken verry unwell this evening warm day
28th January Monday 1805 attempted to break through the ice, etc., and get our boat and canoe out but had no success. Several Indians are here wanting to get war hatchets made. The man who was sick yesterday is getting better. Mr. Jessome, our interpreter, became very unwell this evening. It was a warm day.
[Clark, January 29, 1805]
29th January Tuesday 1805 Gave Jassome a Dost of Salts we Send & Collect Stones and put them on a large log heap to heet them with a View of warming water in the Boat and by that means, Sepperate her from the Ices, our attempt appears to be defeated by the Stones all breaking & flying to peaces in the fire, a fine warm Day, we are now burning a large Coal pit, to mend the indians hatchets, & make them war axes, the only means by which we precure Corn from them
29th January Tuesday 1805 Gave Jassome a dose of salts. We sent & collected stones and piled them on a large log heap to heat them, hoping to warm water in the boat and use that to separate her from the ice. However, our attempt seems to have failed as the stones just broke apart and scattered in the fire. It’s a nice warm day, and we’re currently burning a large coal pit to repair the Indians' hatchets and make them war axes, the only way we can get corn from them.
[Clark, January 30, 1805]
30th January Wednesday 1805 a fine morning, Clouded up at 9 oClock, Mr. La Rocke paid us a Visit, & we gave him an answer respecting the request he made when last here of accompanying us on our journey &c.
30th January Wednesday 1805 a beautiful morning, it got cloudy at 9 o'clock. Mr. La Rocke visited us, and we responded to his request from last time about joining us on our journey, etc.
[Clark, January 31, 1805]
31st January Thursday, 1805 Snowed last night, wind high from the N W. Sawed off the boys toes Sent 5 men down the river to hunt with 2 horses, our interpeter Something better, George Drewyer taken with the Ploursey last evening Bled & gave him Some Sage tea, this morning he is much better—Cold disagreeable
31st January Thursday, 1805 It snowed last night, and the wind was strong from the northwest. I had to amputate the boy's toes. I sent five men down the river to hunt with two horses, our interpreter is doing better. George Drewyer got sick with the pleurisy last evening; we bled him and gave him some sage tea. This morning, he's much better—it's cold and unpleasant.
[Clark, February 1, 1805]
1st of February Friday 1805 a cold windey Day our hunters returnd. haveing killed only one Deer, a war Chief of the Me ne tar ras Came with Some Corn requested to have a War hatchet made, & requested to be allowed to go to war against the Souis & Ricarres who had Killed a mandan Some time past—we refused, and gave reassons, which he verry readily assented to, and promised to open his ears to all we Said this man is young and named (Seeing Snake Mar-book, She-ah-O-ke-ah) this mans woman Set out & he prosued her, in the evening
1st of February, Friday, 1805—a cold, windy day. Our hunters returned, having killed only one deer. A war chief of the Menetarras came with some corn and asked for a war hatchet to be made. He requested permission to go to war against the Souis and Ricarres, who had killed a Mandan some time ago. We refused and explained our reasons, which he readily accepted, promising to listen to everything we said. This man is young and named Seeing Snake Mar-book, She-ah-O-ke-ah. His woman set out, and he pursued her in the evening.
[Clark, February 2, 1805]
2nd of February Satturday 1805 a find Day one Deer Killed our interpeter Still unwell, one of the wives of the Big belley interptr taken Sick—Mr. Larocke leave us to day (this man is a Clerk to the N W Company, & verry anxious to accompany us)
2nd of February Saturday 1805 a fine day, one deer killed, our interpreter still unwell. One of the wives of the big belly interpreter got sick. Mr. Larocke left us today (this man is a clerk for the N W Company and is very eager to join us).
[Lewis, February 3, 1805]
3rd of February Sunday 1805. a fine day; the blacksmith again commences his opperations. we were visited by but few of the natives today. the situation of our boat and perogues is now allarming, they are firmly inclosed in the Ice and almost covered with snow. The ice which incloses them lyes in several stratas of unequal thicknesses which are seperated by streams of water. this peculiarly unfortunate because so soon as we cut through the first strata of ice the water rushes up and rises as high as the upper surface of the ice and thus creates such a debth of water as renders it impracticable to cut away the lower strata which appears firmly attatched to, and confining the bottom of the vessels. the instruments we have hitherto used has been the ax only, with which, we have made several attempts that proved unsuccessful) from the cause above mentioned. we then determined to attempt freeing them from the ice by means of boiling water which we purposed heating in the vessels by means of hot stones, but this expedient proved also fruitless, as every species of stone which we could procure in the neighbourhood partook so much of the calcarious genus that they burst into small particles on being exposed to the heat of the fire. we now determined as the dernier resort to prepare a parse) of Iron spikes and attatch them to the end of small poles of convenient length and endeavour by means of them to free the vessels from the ice. we have already prepared a large rope of Elk-skin and a windless by means of which we have no doubt of being able to draw the boat on the bank provided we can free from the ice.
3rd of February, Sunday, 1805. A nice day; the blacksmith is starting his work again. We had only a few visits from the locals today. The situation with our boat and canoes is now alarming; they are firmly stuck in the ice and almost completely covered with snow. The ice surrounding them lies in different layers of varying thickness, separated by streams of water. This is particularly unfortunate because, as soon as we cut through the top layer of ice, water rushes in and rises to the level of the top surface of the ice, creating such a depth of water that it makes it impossible to cut away the lower layers, which seem to be tightly attached to the bottom of the vessels. The only tool we've used so far is an axe, and our several attempts to free them have been unsuccessful for the reasons mentioned above. We then decided to try to free them from the ice using boiling water, which we planned to heat in containers using hot stones, but this plan also failed, as the only stones we could find in the area were so much like limestone that they shattered into small pieces when exposed to the fire's heat. We have now resolved, as a last resort, to prepare a bundle of iron spikes and attach them to the ends of small poles of a manageable length to try to free the vessels from the ice. We've already made a large rope from elk skin, and with a winch, we are confident that we will be able to pull the boat onto the bank once we manage to free it from the ice.
[Clark, February 3, 1805]
3rd of February 1805 our provisions of meat being nearly exorsted I concluded to Decend the River on the Ice & hunt, I Set out with about 16 men 3 horses & 2 Slays Descended nearly 60 miles Killed & loaded the horses back, & made 2 pens which we filed with meat, & returned on the 13th we Killed 40 Deer, 3 Bulls 19 Elk, maney So meager that they were unfit for use
3rd of February 1805, our supply of meat was almost gone. I decided to go down the river on the ice to hunt. I set out with about 16 men, 3 horses, and 2 sleds. We traveled nearly 60 miles, killed enough animals to load the horses, and made 2 pens to store the meat. We returned on the 13th with 40 deer, 3 bulls, and 19 elk, though many were so lean that they were unusable.
[Lewis, February 4, 1805]
4th February, Monday 1805. This morning fair tho could the thermometer stood at 18° below Naught, wind from N. W. Capt Clark set out with a hunting party consisting of sixteen of our command and two frenchmen who together with two others, have established a small hut and resided this winter within the vicinity of Fort Mandane under our protection. visited by many of the natives today. our stock of meat which we had procured in the Months of November & December is now nearly exhausted; a supply of this articles is at this moment peculiarly interesting as well for our immediate consumption, as that we may have time before the approach of the warm season to prepare the meat for our voyage in the spring of the year. Capt. Clark therefore deturmined to continue his rout down the river even as far as the River bullet unless he should find a plenty of game nearer—The men transported their baggage on a couple of small wooden Slays drawn by themselves, and took with them 3 pack horses which we had agreed should be returned with a load of meat to fort mandane as soon as they could procure it. no buffaloe have made their appearance in our neighbourhood for some weeks; and I am informed that our Indian neighbours-suffer extreemly at this moment for the article of flesh. Shields killed two deer this evening, both very lean—one a large buck, he had shed his horns.
February 4, 1805, Monday. This morning was fair, although the thermometer stood at 18° below zero, with a northwest wind. Captain Clark set out with a hunting party made up of sixteen of our men and two Frenchmen who, along with two others, have built a small hut and have been living nearby Fort Mandane under our protection. We were visited by many natives today. Our supply of meat that we had gathered in November and December is nearly gone; getting more of this food is particularly important right now for both our immediate needs and so we can prepare meat for our trip in the spring. Therefore, Captain Clark decided to keep going down the river as far as the River Bullet unless he finds plenty of game closer. The men carried their gear on a couple of small wooden sleds they pulled themselves, and they took three pack horses that we agreed to send back loaded with meat to Fort Mandane as soon as they could get some. There haven't been any buffalo around here for a few weeks, and I'm told our Indian neighbors are suffering greatly right now due to the lack of meat. Shields killed two deer this evening; both were very lean—one was a large buck that had already shed its antlers.
[Lewis, February 5, 1805]
5th February Tuesday 1805. Pleasent morning wind from N. W. fair; visited by many of the natives who brought a considerable quanty of corn in payment for the work which the blacksmith had done for them—they are pecuarly attatched to a battle ax formed in a very inconvenient manner in my opinion. it is fabricated of iron only, the blade is extreemly thin, from 7 to nine inches in length and from 43/4, to 6 Inches on it's edge, from whence the sides proceed nearly in a straight line to the eye where it's width is generally not more than an inch. The eye is round & about one inch in diameter. the handle seldom more than fourteen inches in length, the whole weighing about one pound—the great length of the blade of this ax, added to the small size of the handle renders a stroke uncertain and easily avoided, while the shortness of the handel must render a blow much less forceable if even well directed, and still more inconvenient as they uniformly use this instrument in action on horseback. The oalder fassion is still more inconvenient, it is somewhat in the form of the blade of an Espantoon but is attatchd to a helve of the dementions before discribed the blade is sometimes by way of ornament purforated with two three or more small circular holes—the following is the general figure it is from 12 to 15 inces in length
5th February, Tuesday 1805. Pleasant morning with a northwest wind; many natives visited, bringing a good amount of corn as payment for the work the blacksmith did for them. They are particularly attached to a battle axe that I find quite inconvenient. It's made entirely of iron, with an extremely thin blade that measures between 7 to 9 inches long and 4.75 to 6 inches along its edge, with the sides continuing nearly straight to the eye, where its width is usually no more than an inch. The eye is round and about one inch in diameter. The handle is rarely more than fourteen inches long, and the entire axe weighs about a pound. The long blade combined with the short handle makes strikes uncertain and easy to dodge, while the short handle also reduces the force of a blow, even if well aimed. It's even more awkward since they typically use this tool while riding on horseback. The older style is even less convenient; it resembles the blade of an espantoon but is attached to a handle of the same dimensions mentioned earlier. For decoration, the blade often has two, three, or more small circular holes. Generally, it measures between 12 to 15 inches in length.
[Lewis, February 6, 1805]
6th February Wednesday 1805. Fair morning Wind from N. W. had a sley prepared against the return of the horses which Capt Clark had promised to send back as soon as he should be able to procure a load of meat. visited by many of the natives among others the Big white, the Coal, big-man, hairy horn and the black man, I smoked with them, after which they retired, a deportment not common, for they usually pester us with their good company the ballance of the day after once being introduced to our apartment. Shields killed three antelopes this evening. the blacksmiths take a considerable quantity of corn today in payment for their labour. the blacksmith's have proved a happy resoce to us in our present situation as I believe it would have been difficult to have devised any other method to have procured corn from the natives. the Indians are extravegantly fond of sheet iron of which they form arrow-points and manufacter into instruments for scraping and dressing their buffaloe robes—I permited the blacksmith to dispose of a part of a sheet-iron callaboos which had been nearly birnt out on our passage up the river, and for each piece about four inches square he obtained from seven to eight gallons of corn from the natives who appeared extreemly pleased with the exchange-
6th February, Wednesday, 1805. It was a nice morning with a northwest wind. I had a sled ready for when the horses returned, as Captain Clark had promised to send them back as soon as he could get a load of meat. Many natives visited us, including Big White, Coal, Big Man, Hairy Horn, and the Black Man. I smoked with them, and afterward, they left, which is unusual because they usually stick around and hang out with us for the rest of the day after being introduced to our place. Shields killed three antelopes this evening. The blacksmiths received a good amount of corn today in exchange for their work. The blacksmiths have been a great help to us in our current situation, as I believe it would have been hard to find any other way to get corn from the natives. The Indians are extremely fond of sheet iron, which they use to make arrow points and tools for scraping and preparing their buffalo robes. I allowed the blacksmith to sell some of a sheet of iron from a calaboo that had nearly burned out while we were traveling up the river, and for each piece about four inches square, he got seven to eight gallons of corn from the natives, who seemed very pleased with the trade.
[Lewis, February 7, 1805]
7th February Thursday 1805. This morning was fair Thermometer at 18° above naught much warmer than it has been for some days; wind S. E. continue to be visited by the natives. The Sergt. of the guard reported that the Indian women (wives to our interpreters) were in the habit of unbaring the fort gate at any time of night and admitting their Indian visitors, I therefore directed a lock to be put to the gate and ordered that no Indian but those attatched to the garrison should be permitted to remain all night within the fort or admitted during the period which the gate had been previously ordered to be kept shut which was from sunset untill sunrise.
7th February Thursday 1805. This morning was nice. The thermometer was at 18° above zero, not much warmer than it has been for the past few days. The wind was from the southeast. We continue to be visited by the locals. The sergeant of the guard reported that the Native women (wives of our interpreters) were in the habit of unbaring the fort gate at any time during the night and letting in their Native visitors. I therefore instructed that a lock be put on the gate and ordered that no Native except those attached to the garrison should be allowed to stay overnight within the fort or be admitted during the period when the gate had been previously ordered to remain shut, which was from sunset until sunrise.
[Lewis, February 8, 1805]
8th February Friday 1805. This morning was fair wind S. E. the weather still warm and pleasent- visited by the black-Cat the principal chief of the Roop-tar-he, or upper mandane vilage. this man possesses more integrety, firmness, inteligence and perspicuety of mind than any indian I have met with in this quarter, and I think with a little management he may be made a usefull agent in furthering the views of our government. The black Cat presented me with a bow and apologized for not having completed the shield he had promised alledging that the weather had been too could to permit his making it, I gave him som small shot 6 fishing-hooks and 2 yards of ribbon his squaw also presented me with 2 pair of mockersons for which in return I gave a small lookingglass and a couples of nedles. the chief dined with me and left me in the evening. he informed me that his people suffered very much for the article of meat, and that he had not himself tasted any for several days.
8th February Friday 1805. This morning had a nice breeze from the southeast, and the weather was still warm and pleasant. I was visited by the Black Cat, the main chief of the Roop-tar-he, or upper Mandan village. This man has more integrity, firmness, intelligence, and clarity of mind than any Indian I’ve met in this area, and I believe that with a little management, he could be a useful ally in supporting the goals of our government. The Black Cat gave me a bow and apologized for not having finished the shield he promised, saying the weather had been too cold for him to make it. I gave him some small shot, six fishing hooks, and two yards of ribbon. His wife also presented me with two pairs of moccasins, and in return, I gave her a small mirror and a couple of needles. The chief had dinner with me and left in the evening. He mentioned that his people were suffering greatly due to a lack of meat, and that he hadn’t tasted any himself for several days.
[Lewis, February 9, 1805]
9th February Saturday 1805. The morning fair and pleasent, wind from S. E.—visted by Mr. McKinzey one the N. W. Company's clerks. this evening a man by the name of Howard whom I had given permission to go the Mandane vilage returned after the gate was shut and rether than call to the guard to have it opened scaled the works an indian who was looking on shortly after followed his example. I convinced the Indian of the impropryety of his conduct, and explained to him the riske he had run of being severely treated, the fellow appeared much allarmed, I gave him a small piece of tobacco and sent him away Howard I had comitted to the care of the guard with a determineation to have him tryed by a Courtmartial for this offence. this man is an old soldier which still hightens this offnce-
9th February Saturday 1805. The morning was clear and pleasant, with the wind coming from the southeast. I was visited by Mr. McKinzey, one of the clerks from the Northwest Company. This evening, a man named Howard, whom I had given permission to go to the Mandane village, returned after the gate had been shut and, instead of calling to the guard to have it opened, he scaled the walls. An Indian, who was watching, shortly after followed his example. I convinced the Indian of the inappropriateness of his actions and explained to him the risks he had taken of being severely punished. The man seemed quite alarmed. I gave him a small piece of tobacco and sent him away. I had committed Howard to the guard’s care with the intent to have him tried by a court-martial for this offense. This man is an old soldier, which only escalates the severity of his actions.
[Lewis, February 10, 1805]
10th February Sunday 1805. This Morning was Cloudy after a slight snow which fell in the course of the night the wind blue very hard from N. W. altho the thermometer stood at 18° Above naught the violence of the wind caused a degree of could that was much more unpleasent than that of yesterday when thermometer stood at 10° only above the same point. Mr. McKinzey left me this morning. Charbono returned with one of the Frenchmen and informed that he had left the three Horses and two men with the meat which Capt. Clark had sent at some distance below on the river—he told me that the horses were heavy loaded and that not being shod it was impossible for horses to travel on the ice. I determined to send down some men with two small slays for the meat and accordingly I gave orders that they should set out early the next morning. two men were also sent to conduct the horses by way of the plain.
10th February Sunday 1805. This morning was cloudy after a light snowfall overnight. The wind blew very hard from the northwest, and even though the thermometer was at 18° above zero, the intensity of the wind made it feel much colder than yesterday when it was only 10° above the same point. Mr. McKinzey left me this morning. Charbono returned with one of the Frenchmen and informed me that he had left three horses and two men with the meat that Capt. Clark had sent a short distance down the river. He told me that the horses were heavily loaded and, since they weren't shod, it was impossible for them to travel on the ice. I decided to send some men with two small sleds for the meat, and I gave orders for them to leave early the next morning. Two men were also sent to guide the horses across the plain.
[Lewis, February 11, 1805]
11th February Monday 1805. The party that were ordered last evening set out early this morning. the weather was fair and could wind N. W. about five oclock this evening one of the wives of Charbono was delivered of a fine boy. it is worthy of remark that this was the first child which this woman had boarn and as is common in such cases her labour was tedious and the pain violent; Mr. Jessome informed me that he had freequently adminstered a small portion of the rattle of the rattle-snake, which he assured me had never failed to produce the desired effect, that of hastening the birth of the child; having the rattle of a snake by me I gave it to him and he administered two rings of it to the woman broken in small pieces with the fingers and added to a small quantity of water. Whether this medicine was truly the cause or not I shall not undertake to determine, but I was informed that she had not taken it more than ten minutes before she brought forth perhaps this remedy may be worthy of future experiments, but I must confess that I want faith as to it's efficacy.-
11th February, Monday, 1805. The group that was assigned last evening set out early this morning. The weather was nice, with a northwest wind. Around five o'clock this evening, one of Charbono's wives gave birth to a healthy boy. It's worth noting that this was the first child this woman had delivered, and as is common in such cases, her labor was long and the pain intense. Mr. Jessome told me that he had often given a small amount of rattlesnake rattle, which he assured me had always worked to speed up labor. Having a snake rattle on hand, I gave it to him, and he administered two rings of it to the woman, crushed into small pieces and mixed with a little water. Whether this medicine was genuinely responsible, I won't claim to know, but I was told she took it for no more than ten minutes before giving birth. Perhaps this remedy is worth trying again in the future, but I must admit my doubts about its effectiveness.
[Lewis, February 12, 1805]
12th February Tuesday 1805. The morning was fair tho could, thermometer at 14° below naught wind S. E. ordered the Blacksmith to shoe the horses and some others to prepare some gears in order to send them down with three slays to join the hunting party and transport the meat which they may have pocured to this place—the the men whom I had sent for the meat left by Charbono did not return untill 4 OClock this evening. Drewyer arrived with the horses about the same time, the horses appeared much fatieged I directed some meal brands given them moisened with a little water but to my astonishment found that they would not eat it but prefered the bark of the cotton wood which forms the principall article of food usually given them by their Indian masters in the winter season; for this purpose they cause the trees to be felled by their women and the horses feed on the boughs and bark of their tender branches. the Indians in our neighbourhood are freequently pilfered of their horses by the Recares, Souixs and Assinniboins and therefore make it an invariable rule to put their horses in their lodges at night. in this situation the only food of the horse consists of a few sticks of the cottonwood from the size of a man's finger to that of his arm. The Indians are invariably severe riders, and frequently have occasion for many days together through the whole course of the day to employ their horses in pursuing the Buffaloe or transporting meat to their vilages during which time they are seldom suffered to tast food; at night the Horse returned to his stall where his food is what seems to me a scanty allowance of wood. under these circumstances it would seem that their horses could not long exist or at least could not retain their flesh and strength, but the contrary is the fact, this valuable anamall under all those disadvantages is seldom seen meager or unfit for service.—A little after dark this evening Capt. Clark arrived with the hunting party—since they set out they have killed forty Deer, three buffaloe bulls, & sixteen Elk, most of them were so meager that they were unfit for uce, particularly the Buffaloes and male Elk—the wolves also which are here extreemly numerous heped themselves to a considerable proportion of the hunt—if an anamal is killed and lyes only one night exposed to the wolves it is almost invariably devoured by them.
February 12, Tuesday, 1805. The morning was nice but cold, with the thermometer at 14° below zero and the wind from the southeast. I instructed the blacksmith to put shoes on the horses and had some others prepare gear so we could send three sleds down to join the hunting party and bring back any meat they had obtained. The men I had sent for the meat left by Charbono didn’t return until 4 o’clock this evening. Drewyer arrived with the horses around the same time, and the horses looked quite tired. I ordered some meal brands to be given to them, moistened with a little water, but to my surprise, they wouldn’t eat it and preferred the bark from the cottonwood, which is the main food they usually get from their Indian masters in winter. For this, the women cut down the trees, and the horses feed on the branches and bark of the tender limbs. The local Indians frequently have their horses stolen by the Recares, Sioux, and Assiniboins, so they always put their horses in their lodges at night. In this situation, a horse’s food consists of a few sticks of cottonwood, from the size of a man’s finger to that of his arm. The Indians are generally tough riders and often spend many days using their horses to chase buffalo or transport meat to their villages, during which time the horses rarely get any food. At night, the horse returns to its stall, where its food seems to be a meager amount of wood. Under these conditions, it seems unlikely that their horses could survive or maintain their condition, but the opposite is true; this valuable animal rarely appears skinny or unfit for work despite these disadvantages. A little after dark this evening, Capt. Clark arrived with the hunting party—since they set out, they have killed forty deer, three buffalo bulls, and sixteen elk. Most of them were so thin they were unfit for use, especially the buffalo and male elk. The wolves here are also extremely numerous and took a significant portion of the hunt. If an animal is killed and left exposed to the wolves for just one night, it’s almost always eaten by them.
[Lewis, February 13, 1805]
13th February Wednesday 1805. The morning cloudy thermometer 2° below naught wind from S. E. visited by the Black-Cat gave him a battle ax with which he appeared much gratifyed.
13th February Wednesday 1805. The morning was cloudy, the thermometer read 2° below zero, and the wind was coming from the southeast. I was visited by the Black-Cat, and I gave him a battle ax, which he seemed very pleased with.
[Clark, February 13, 1805]
I returned last night from a hunting party much fatigued, haveing walked 30 miles on the ice and through of wood land Points in which the Snow was nearly Knee Deep
I returned last night from a hunting trip feeling very tired, having walked 30 miles on the ice and through wooded areas where the snow was almost knee-deep.
The 1st day I left the fort proceeded on the ice to new Mandan Island, 22 miles & Camped Killed nothing, & nothing to eat,
The 1st day I left the fort, I traveled on the ice to new Mandan Island, 22 miles, and set up camp. Didn’t hunt anything, and had nothing to eat.
The 2d day the morning verry Cold & Windey, I broke thro the ice and got my feet and legs wet, Sent out 4 hunters thro a point to Kill a Deer & Cook it by the time the party Should get up, those hunters killed a Deer & 2 Buffalow Bulls the Buffalow too Meagur to eate, we eate the Deer & proceeded on to an old Indian Lodge, Sent out the hunters & they brought in three lean Deer, which we made use of for food,—walking on uneaven ice has blistered the bottom of my feat, and walking is painfull to me
The second day was very cold and windy in the morning. I broke through the ice and got my feet and legs wet. I sent out four hunters through a point to kill a deer and cook it by the time the party should wake up. Those hunters killed a deer and two buffalo bulls, but the buffalo were too lean to eat. We ate the deer and continued on to an old Indian lodge. I sent out the hunters again, and they brought back three lean deer, which we used for food. Walking on uneven ice has blistered the bottoms of my feet, and it’s painful for me to walk.
3rd day Cold morning the after party of the Day worm, Camped on a Sand point near the mouth of a Creek on the S W. Side we Call hunting Creek, I turned out with the hunters, I Killed 2 Deer the hunters killed an Elk, Buffalow Bull & 5 Deer. all Meager
3rd day Cold morning after the party of the Day worm, Camped on a Sand point near the mouth of a Creek on the S W. Side we call Hunting Creek, I got up with the hunters. I killed 2 deer, the hunters killed an elk, a buffalo bull, and 5 deer. All meager.
4th Day hunted the two bottoms near the Camp Killed 9 Elk, 18 Deer, brought to camp all the meat fit to eate & had the bones taken out. every man ingaged either in hunting or Collecting & packing the meat to Camp
4th Day hunted the two valleys near the Camp. Killed 9 elk and 18 deer, brought back all the meat fit to eat and had the bones removed. Every man was engaged either in hunting or gathering and packing the meat to Camp.
5th Day Dispatched one of the party our Interpeter & 2 french men with the 3 horses loaded with the best of the meat to the fort 44 miles Distant, the remaining meat I had packed on the 2 Slays & drawn down to the next point about 3 miles below, at this place I had all the meat Collected which was killed yesterday & had escaped the wolves, Raven & Magpie, (which are verry noumerous about this Place) and put into a close pen made of logs to secure it from the wolves & birds & proceeded on to a large bottom nearly opposit the Chisscheter (heart) River, in this bottom we found but little game, Great No. of wolves, on the hills Saw Several parsels of Buffalow.—Camped. I killed a Buck
5th Day: I sent one of our group, our interpreter, and 2 French men with the 3 horses loaded with the best meat to the fort, which is 44 miles away. I packed the remaining meat onto the 2 sleds and pulled them down to the next spot, about 3 miles below. At this location, I gathered all the meat that was killed yesterday and had managed to escape the wolves, ravens, and magpies (which are very numerous around here), and put it into a secure pen made of logs to protect it from the wolves and birds. We then moved on to a large area nearly opposite the Chisscheter (Heart) River. In this area, we found very little game, but there were a lot of wolves on the hills, and I saw several groups of buffalo. We set up camp. I killed a buck.
6th Day The Buffalow Seen last night provd to be Bulls. lean & unfit for to make uce of as food, the Distance from Camp being nearly 60 miles, and the packing of meat that distance attended with much difficuity deturmined me to return and hunt the points above, we Set out on our return and halted at an old Indian lodge 40 miles below Fort Mandan Killed 3 Elk & 2 Deer-.
6th Day The buffalo we saw last night turned out to be bulls, which were lean and not suitable for food. Since the camp was nearly 60 miles away, carrying the meat that distance would be very difficult. So, I decided to go back and hunt the areas above. We set out on our return and stopped at an old Indian lodge 40 miles below Fort Mandan. We killed 3 elk and 2 deer.
7th Day a cold Day wind blew hard from the N. W. J Fields got one of his ears frosed deturmined to lay by and hunt today Killed an Elk & 6 deer,* this meat I had Boned & put onto a Close pen made of logs—*all that was fit for use
7th Day, a cold day with a strong wind blowing from the northwest. J. Fields got one of his ears frostbitten but was determined to stay put and hunt today. He killed an elk and six deer. I boned all the meat and put it in a close pen made of logs—everything that was fit for use.
8th day air keen halted at the old Camp we Stayed in on the 2d night after we left the Fort, expecting to meat the horses at this Place, killed 3 Deer, Several men being nearly out of Mockersons & the horses not returning deturmind me to return to the Fort on tomorrow
8th day air was sharp as we stopped at the old camp where we stayed on the 2nd night after leaving the Fort, expecting to meet the horses here. We killed 3 deer, and since several men were nearly out of supplies and the horses hadn’t come back, I decided to head back to the Fort tomorrow.
9th day. Set out early, Saw great numbers of Grouse feeding on the young willows, on the Sand bars one mans I sent in persute of a gangue of Elk killed three near the old Ricara Village and joined at the fort, Sent him back to Secure the meat one man with him—The ice on the parts of the River which was verry rough, as I went down, was Smothe on my return, this is owing to the rise and fall of the water, which takes place every day or two, and Caused by partial thaws, and obstructions in the passage of the water thro the Ice, which frequently attaches itself to the bottom.—the water when riseing forses its way thro the cracks & air holes above the old ice, & in one night becoms a Smothe Surface of ice 4 to 6 Inchs thick,—the river falls & the ice Sink in places with the water and attaches itself to the bottom, and when it again rises to its former hite, frequently leavs a valley of Several feet to Supply with water to bring it on a leavel Surfice.
9th day. Set out early. I saw a lot of grouse feeding on the young willows and the sandbars. I sent one man after a group of elk; he killed three near the old Ricara Village and joined me at the fort. I sent him back to secure the meat, along with one man. The ice on parts of the river, which was very rough when I went down, was smooth on my return. This is due to the daily rise and fall of the water, caused by partial thaws and obstructions in the flow of water through the ice, which often sticks to the bottom. When the water rises, it forces its way through the cracks and air holes above the old ice, creating a smooth surface of ice that is 4 to 6 inches thick overnight. When the river falls, the ice sinks in places with the water and sticks to the bottom, and when it rises again to its former height, it frequently leaves a valley of several feet to supply the water needed to create a level surface.
The water of the Missouri at this time is Clear with little Tinges.
The water of the Missouri right now is clear with a few slight tints.
I saw Several old Villages near the Chisscheta River on enquirey found they were Mandan Villages destroyed by the Sous & Small Pox, they noumerous and lived in 6 Villages near that place.
I saw several old villages near the Chisscheta River and found out they were Mandan villages destroyed by the Sioux and smallpox. They were numerous and lived in six villages near that area.
[Clark, February 14, 1805]
14th Sent 4 men with the Horses Shod & 2 Slays down for the meat I had left, 22 miles below those men were rushed on by 106 Sioux who robed them of 2 of their horses—& they returned
14th Sent 4 men with the horses shod and 2 sleds down for the meat I had left, 22 miles below. Those men were attacked by 106 Sioux who stole 2 of their horses, and they returned.
[Clark, February 14, 1805]
14th of February Thursday 1805 The Snow fell 3 inches Deep last night, a fine morning, Dispatched George Drewyer & 3 men with two Slays drawn by 3 horses for the meat left below-
14th of February Thursday 1805 The snow fell 3 inches deep last night, a nice morning. I sent George Drewyer and 3 men with two sleds pulled by 3 horses to collect the meat left below.
[Clark, February 15, 1805]
15th Capt. Lewis with a party of men & 4 Indians went in pursute of the Sioux, the Indians returned the next Day & informed me that the Sioux had Burnt all my meat & Born home (they Saw me but was afraid to attact me) Capt Lewis returned the 21st with 2400 l. of meat, haveing Killed 36 Deer & 14 Elk, the Sioux burnt one of my meet houses; they did not find the other
15th Capt. Lewis and a group of men along with 4 Native Americans went after the Sioux. The Native Americans came back the next day and told me that the Sioux had burned all my meat and went home (they saw me but were too scared to attack). Capt. Lewis returned on the 21st with 2400 lbs. of meat, having killed 36 deer and 14 elk. The Sioux burned down one of my meat houses; they didn’t find the other one.
[Clark, February 15, 1805]
15th of February Friday 1805 at 10 oClock P M. last night the men that dispatched yesterday for the meat, returned and informed us that as they were on their march down at the distance of about 24 miles below the Fort about 105 Indians which they took to be Souis rushed on them and Cut their horses from the Slays, two of which they carried off in great hast, the 3rd horse was given up to the party by the intersetion of an Indian who assumd Some authority on the accasion, probably more thro fear of himself or Some of the Indians being killed by our men who were not disposed to be Robed of all they had tamely, they also forced 2 of the mens knives & a tamahawk, the man obliged them to return the tamahawk the knives they ran off with G Drewyer Frasure, S Gutterage, & Newmon with a broken Gun
February 15, 1805, Friday at 10 PM. Last night, the men we sent out for meat returned and told us that while they were making their way back, about 24 miles below the Fort, around 105 Indians, whom they believed to be Souis, attacked them. They cut the horses loose from the sleds and quickly took two of them. The third horse was returned to the group thanks to the intervention of an Indian who took on some authority in the situation, likely out of fear that some of his companions might be killed by our men, who weren’t willing to be robbed of everything without a fight. They also forced two of the men to give up their knives and a tomahawk; one of the men managed to get the tomahawk back, but they ran off with the knives. G. Drewyer, Frasure, S. Gutterage, and Newman were with a broken gun.
we dispatched two men to inform the mandans, and if any of them chose to pursue those robers, to come down in the morning, and join Capt Lewis who intended to Set out with a party of men verry early, by 12 oClock the Chief of the 2ed Village Big white Came down, and Soon after one other Chief and Several men—The Chief observed that all the young men of the 2 Villages were out hunting, and but verry fiew guns were left,Capt. Lewis Set out at Sunrise with 24 men, to meet those Soues &c. Several Indians accompanied him Some with Bows & arrows Some withe Spears & Battle axes, a 2 with fusees—the morning fine the Thermometer Stood at 16° below 0, Nought, visited by 2 of the Big Bellies this evening,—one Chief of the Mandans returned from Capt Lewises Party nearly blind—this Complaint is as I am infomd. Common at this Season of the year and caused by the reflection of the Sun on the ice & Snow, it is cured by jentilley Swetting the part affected by throweng Snow on a hot Stone
We sent two men to inform the Mandans, and if any of them wanted to go after those robbers, they should come down in the morning and join Captain Lewis, who planned to set out with a group of men very early. By 12 o'clock, the chief of the second village, Big White, arrived, and soon after, another chief and several men came. The chief noted that all the young men from the two villages were out hunting, and very few guns were left. Captain Lewis set out at sunrise with 24 men to meet the Soues and others. Several Indians joined him, some with bows and arrows, some with spears and battle axes, and two with muskets. The morning was nice, and the thermometer read 16° below zero. Two of the Big Bellies visited this evening. One chief from the Mandans returned from Captain Lewis's party nearly blind. This issue, as I’ve been told, is common at this time of year and is caused by the sun reflecting off the ice and snow. It can be treated by gently sweating the affected area by throwing snow on a hot stone.
verry Cold part of the night—one man Killed a verry large Red Fox to day
verry Cold part of the night—one man killed a verry large red fox today
[Clark, February 16, 1805]
16th of February Satturday 1805 a fine morning, visited by but fiew Indians to day, at Dusk two of the Indians who wint down with Capt. Lewis returned, Soon after two others and one man (Howard) with his feet frosted, and informed that the Inds. who Commited the roberry of the 2 horses was So far a head that they could not be overtaken, they left a number of pars of Mockersons which, the Mandans knew to be Souix mockersons,—This war party Camped verry near the last camp I made when on my hunting party, where they left Some Corn, as a deception, with a view to induc a belief that they were Ricarras.
16th of February, Saturday, 1805. It was a nice morning, but only a few Indians visited today. At dusk, two of the Indians who went down with Capt. Lewis returned. Soon after, two others arrived, along with a man named Howard, who had frostbite on his feet. They reported that the Indians who stole the two horses were too far ahead to catch up with. They left several pairs of moccasins that the Mandans recognized as Sioux moccasins. This war party camped very close to the last camp I set up during my hunting trip, where they left some corn as a decoy to create the impression that they were Ricarras.
Capt Lewis & party proceeded on down the meat I left at my last Camp was taken.
Capt Lewis and his team continued on to the place where the meat I left at my last camp was taken.
[Clark, February 17, 1805]
17th of February Sunday 1805 this morning worm & a little Cloudy, the Coal & his Son visited me to day with about 30 w. of Drid Buffalow meat, & Some Tallow Mr. McKinsey one of the N W. Compys. Clerks visited me (one of the hoses the Sous robed a fiew Days past belonged to this man) The after part of the day fair,
17th of February, Sunday, 1805. This morning was warm and a little cloudy. Coal and his son came to visit me today with about 30 weight of dried buffalo meat and some tallow. Mr. McKinsey, one of the Northwest Company's clerks, also visited me (one of the horses that was stolen a few days ago belonged to this man). The second part of the day was clear.
[Clark, February 18, 1805]
18th of February Monday 1805 a cloudy morning Some Snow, Several Indians here today Mr. McKinsey leave me, the after part of the day fine I am much engaged makeing a discriptive List of the Rivers from Information our Store of Meat is out to day
18th of February Monday 1805 a cloudy morning Some Snow, Several Indians here today Mr. McKinsey left me, the latter part of the day was nice. I am very busy making a descriptive list of the rivers based on information. Our supply of meat ran out today.
[Clark, February 19, 1805]
19th of February Tuesday 1805 a fine Day visited by Several of the Mandans to day, our Smiths are much engaged mending and makeing Axes for the Indians for which we get Corn
19th of February, Tuesday, 1805 - a nice day. Today, several Mandans visited us. Our blacksmiths are really busy repairing and making axes for the Indians, and in exchange, we get corn.
[Clark, February 20, 1805]
Fort Mandan 20th February Wednesday 1805 a Butifull Day, visited by the Little raven verry early this morning I am informed of the Death of an old man whome I Saw in the Mandan Village. this man, informed me that he "was 120 winters old, he requested his grand Children to Dress him after Death & Set him on a Stone on a hill with his face towards his old Village or Down the river, that he might go Streight to his brother at their old village under ground"I observed Several Mandan verry old Chiefly men
Fort Mandan, February 20th, Wednesday, 1805. It was a beautiful day. I was visited by Little Raven very early this morning. I learned of the death of an old man whom I saw in the Mandan village. This man told me he was "120 winters old." He requested his grandchildren to dress him after death and place him on a stone on a hill with his face toward his old village or down the river, so he could go straight to his brother in their old village underground. I noticed several very old chief men among the Mandan.
[Clark, February 21, 1805]
21st February Thursday 1805 a Delightfull Day put out our Clothes to Sun—Visited by the big white & Big man they informed me that Several men of their nation was gorn to Consult their Medison Stone about 3 day march to the South West to know What was to be the result of the insuing year—They have great confidence in this Stone and Say that it informs them of every thing which is to happen, & visit it every Spring & Sometimes in the Summer "They haveing arrived at the Stone give it Smoke and proceed to the wood at Some distance to Sleep the next morning return to the Stone, and find marks white & raised on the Stone representing the piece or war which they are to meet with, and other changes, which they are to meet" This Stone has a leavel Surface of about 20 feet in Surcumfrance, thick and pores, and no doubt has Some mineral qualtites effected by the Sun.
21st February, Thursday, 1805, a delightful day. I hung out our clothes to dry in the sun. We were visited by the big white man and another large man who informed me that several people from their nation had gone to consult their medicine stone, about a three-day march to the southwest, to learn what the outcome of the upcoming year would be. They have a lot of confidence in this stone and say that it tells them everything that’s going to happen, and they visit it every spring and sometimes in the summer. After arriving at the stone, they smoke it and then go to sleep in the woods some distance away. The next morning, they return to the stone and find white and raised marks on it that represent the peace or war they will encounter, along with other changes they will face. This stone has a level surface of about 20 feet in circumference, is thick and has pores, and undoubtedly has some mineral qualities affected by the sun.
The Big Bellies have a Stone to which they ascribe nearly the Same Virtues
The Big Bellies have a Stone that they attribute almost the same qualities to.
Capt Lewis returned with 2 Slays loaded with meat, after finding that he could not overtake the Souis war party, (who had in their way distroyd all the meat at one Deposit which I had made & Burnt the Lodges) deturmined to proceed on to the lower Deposit, which he found had not been observed by Soux he hunted two day Killed 36 Deer & 14 Elk, Several of them So meager, that they were unfit for use, the meet which he killed and that in the lower Deposit amounting to about 3000 wt was brought up on two Slays, one Drawn by 16 men had about 2400 wt on it
Capt. Lewis came back with two sleds filled with meat after realizing he couldn’t catch up to the Sioux war party, who had destroyed all the meat at one of my deposits and burned the lodges. He decided to continue on to the lower deposit, which he found hadn’t been spotted by the Sioux. He hunted for two days, killing 36 deer and 14 elk, several of which were so skinny that they were inedible. The meat he hunted, along with that from the lower deposit, totaled about 3,000 pounds and was transported on two sleds, one of which, pulled by 16 men, carried about 2,400 pounds.
[Clark, February 22, 1805] Fort Mandan 22nd of February Friday 1805. a Cloudy morning, at about 12 oClock it began to rain and Continud for a fiew minits, and turned to Snow, and Continud Snowing for about one hour, and Cleared away fair The two hunters left below arrived, They killed two Elk, and hung them up out of the reach of the wolves—The Coal a Ricara who is a considerable Chief of the Mandans visited us to day, and maney others of the three nations in our neighbourhood.
[Clark, February 22, 1805] Fort Mandan February 22, Friday, 1805. It was a cloudy morning. Around noon, it started to rain and continued for a few minutes before changing to snow, which lasted about an hour before clearing up. The two hunters who had been down below returned; they killed two elk and hung them up out of reach of the wolves. A Ricara named Coal, who is a prominent chief of the Mandans, visited us today, along with many others from the three neighboring nations.
[Clark, February 23, 1805]
23rd of February 1805 Satturday All hands employed in Cutting the Perogus Loose from the ice, which was nearly even with their top; we found great difficuelty in effecting this work owing to the Different devisions of Ice & water after Cutting as much as we Could with axes, we had all the Iron we Could get & Some axes put on long poles and picked throught the ice, under the first water, which was not more the 6 or 8 inches deep—we disengaged one Perogue, and nearly disingaged the 2nd in Course of this day which has been warm & pleasent vised by a no of Indians, jessomme & familey went to the Shoes Indians Villag to day
23rd of February 1805, Saturday Everyone was busy cutting the perogues loose from the ice, which was almost level with the top of the boats. We encountered great difficulty with this task due to the various sections of ice and water. After cutting as much as we could with axes, we used all the iron tools we could find along with some axes attached to long poles to break through the ice under the shallow water, which was only about 6 to 8 inches deep. We managed to free one perogue and almost freed the second one during the course of this warm and pleasant day. A number of Indians visited us, and Jessomme and his family went to the Shoshone Indian village today.
The father of the Boy whose feet were frose near this place, and nearly Cured by us took him home in a Slay-
The father of the boy whose feet were frozen near this place, and nearly cured by us, took him home in a sleigh.
[Clark, February 24, 1805]
24th February Sunday 1805 The Day fine, we Commenced very early to day the Cutting loose the boat which was more difficuelt than the perogus with great exertions and with the assistance of Great prises we lousened her and turned the Second perogue upon the ice, ready to Draw out, in Lousening the boat from the ice Some of the Corking drew out which Caused her to Leake for a few minits untill we Discovered the Leake & Stoped it—Jessomme our interpeter & familey returned from the Villages Several Indians visit us today
24th February Sunday 1805 The weather was nice, and we started early today to detach the boat, which was more difficult than the pirogue. With great effort and the help of large levers, we managed to loosen her and turned the second pirogue onto the ice, ready to pull out. While freeing the boat from the ice, some of the caulking came out, which caused her to leak for a few minutes until we discovered the leak and fixed it. Jessomme, our interpreter, and his family returned from the villages. Several Indians visited us today.
[Clark, February 25, 1805]
25th of February Monday 1805 we fixed a Windlass and Drew up the two Perogues on the upper bank and attempted the Boat, but the Roap which we bade made of Elk Skins proved too weak & broke Several times night Comeing on obliged us to leave her in a Situation but little advanced- we were Visited by the Black mockerson Chief of the little Village of Big Bellies, the Cheef of the Shoe Inds and a number of others those Chiefs gave us Some meat which they packed on their wives, and one requested a ax to be made for hies Sun, Mr. Bunch, one of the under traders for the hudsons Bay Companey—one of the Big Bellies asked leave for himself & his two wives to Stay all night, which was granted, also two Boys Stayed all night, one the Sun of the Black Cat.
25th of February, Monday, 1805: We set up a windlass and pulled up the two canoes on the upper bank and tried to use the boat, but the rope we made from elk skins turned out to be too weak and broke several times. As night approached, we had to leave her in a barely advanced state. We were visited by the Black Mockerson chief from the small village of Big Bellies, the chief of the Shoe Indians, and a number of others. These chiefs brought us some meat, which they packed on their wives, and one asked for an axe to be made for his son, Mr. Bunch, one of the junior traders for the Hudson's Bay Company. One of the Big Bellies asked for permission for himself and his two wives to stay the night, which was granted, and two boys stayed overnight as well, one being the son of the Black Cat.
The Day has been exceedingly pleasent
[Clark, February 26, 1805]
26th of Feby 1805 Drew up the Boat & perogus, after Cutting them out of the ice with great Dificuelty-& trouble
26th of Feby 1805 Drew up the Boat & perogus, after Cutting them out of the ice with great Dificuelty-& trouble
[Clark, February 26, 1805]
26th February Tuesday 1805 a fine Day Commencd verry early in makeing preparations for drawing up the Boat on the bank, at Sunset by repeated exertions the whole day we accomplished this troublesom task, just as we were fixed for having the Boat the ice gave away near us for about 100 yds in length—a number of Indians here to day to See the Boat rise on the Bank
26th February Tuesday 1805 was a nice day. We started early, getting everything ready to haul the boat up onto the bank. By sunset, after working hard all day, we finally managed to complete this difficult task. Just as we were ready to secure the boat, the ice near us gave way for about 100 yards. A number of Indians were here today to watch the boat come up on the bank.
[Clark, February 27, 1805]
27th of February Wednesday 1805 a fine day, prepareing the Tools to make perogues all day—a feiw Indians visit us to day, one the largest Indian I ever Saw, & as large a man as ever I Saw, I commence a Map of the Countrey on the Missouries & its waters &c. &c.-
27th of February, Wednesday, 1805: It’s a nice day, preparing the tools to make canoes all day. A few Indians visited us today, including the largest Indian I've ever seen, as well as one of the biggest men I've ever encountered. I started a map of the country along the Missouri and its waters, etc.
[Clark, February 28, 1805]
28th of February 1805 Thursday Mr. Gravilin 2 frenchmen and 2 Ricaras arrived from the Ricaras with letters from Mr. Tahoe &c. informing us of the Deturmination of the Ricaras to follow our councils—and the threts & intintions of the Sioux in Killing us whenever they again met us—and that a party of Several bands were formeing to attacke the Mandans &c. &c.
28th of February 1805 Thursday Mr. Gravilin, 2 Frenchmen, and 2 Ricaras arrived from the Ricaras with letters from Mr. Tahoe, etc., informing us of the Ricaras' decision to follow our advice—and the threats and intentions of the Sioux to kill us whenever they encountered us again—and that a group of several bands was forming to attack the Mandans, etc., etc.
we informed the Mandans & others of this information & also the wish the Ricars had to live near them & fite the Sioux &c. &c. &c.
we informed the Mandans and others of this information and also the desire the Ricars had to live near them and fight the Sioux, etc. etc.
despatched 16 Men 5 Miles abov to build 6 Canoes for the voyage, being Deturmend to Send back the Barge
despatched 16 men 5 miles upstream to build 6 canoes for the trip, being determined to send back the barge.
[Clark, February 28, 1805]
28th of February Thursday 1805 a fine morning, two men of the N W Compy arrve with letters and Sacka comah also a Root and top of a plant presented by Mr. Haney, for the Cure of mad Dogs Snakes &c, and to be found & used as follows vz: "this root is found on high lands and asent of hills, the way of useing it is to Scarify the part when bitten to chu or pound an inch or more if the root is Small, and applying it to the bitten part renewing it twice a Day. the bitten person is not to chaw nor Swallow any of the Root for it might have contrary effect."
28th of February, Thursday, 1805 - It was a nice morning when two men from the Northwest Company arrived with letters and a sack of herbs, along with a root and top of a plant presented by Mr. Haney for treating rabid dogs, snakes, etc. This root can be found on high land and the slopes of hills. To use it, you need to scarify the area that was bitten and chew or pound an inch or more of the root if it’s small, then apply it to the bitten area, renewing it twice a day. The person who was bitten should not chew or swallow any of the root as it could have the opposite effect.
Sent out 16 men to make four Perogus those men returned in the evening and informed that they found trees they thought would answer.
Sent out 16 men to make four Perogus. Those men returned in the evening and reported that they found trees that they thought would work.
Mr. Gravelin two frenchmen & two Inds. arrive from the Ricara Nation with Letters from Mr. Anty Tabeaux, informing us of the peaceable dispositions of that nation towards the Mandans & Me ne to res & their avowed intentions of pursueing our Councils & advice, they express a wish to visit the Mandans, & Know if it will be agreeable to them to admit the Ricaras to Settle near them and join them against their common Enimey the Souis we mentioned this to the mandans, who observed they had always wished to be at peace and good neighbours with the Ricaras, and it is also the Sentiments of all the Big Bellies, & Shoe Nations
Mr. Gravelin, two Frenchmen, and two Indians arrived from the Ricara Nation with letters from Mr. Anty Tabeaux. They inform us of that nation's peaceful attitude towards the Mandans and Menetoures, as well as their stated intentions to seek our counsel and advice. They would like to visit the Mandans and want to know if it would be agreeable for the Ricaras to settle near them and join forces against their common enemy, the Sioux. We mentioned this to the Mandans, who noted that they have always wanted to be at peace and good neighbors with the Ricaras, which is also the sentiment of all the Big Bellies and Shoe Nations.
Mr. Gravilin informs that the Sisetoons and the 3 upper bands of the Tetons, with the Yanktons of the North intend to come to war in a Short time against the nations in this quarter, & will Kill everry white man they See—Mr. T. also informes that Mr. Cameron of St peters has put arms into the hands of the Souls to revenge the death of 3 of his men Killed by the Chipaways latterly—and that the Band of tetons which we Saw is desposed to doe as we have advised them—thro the influenc of their Chief the Black Buffalow
Mr. Gravilin reports that the Sisetoons and the three upper bands of the Tetons, along with the Yanktons from the North, plan to go to war soon against the nations in this area and will kill every white man they see. Mr. T. also mentions that Mr. Cameron from St. Peters has armed the Souls to take revenge for the deaths of three of his men recently killed by the Chipaways. Additionally, the band of Tetons we saw is inclined to act as we advised them, due to the influence of their chief, the Black Buffalo.
Mr. Gravilin further informs that the Party which Robed us of the 2 horses laterly were all Sieoux 100 in number, they Called at the Ricaras on their return, the Ricares being displeased at their Conduct would not give them any thing to eate, that being the greatest insult they could peaceably offer them, and upbraded them.
Mr. Gravilin also reports that the group who stole our 2 horses consisted of 100 Sioux. They stopped by the Ricaras on their way back, but the Ricaras, unhappy with their behavior, refused to provide them with any food, which they considered the greatest insult they could offer peacefully, and they reprimanded them.
[Clark, March 1, 1805]
March 1st Friday 1805 a fine Day I am ingaged in Copying a map, men building perogus, makeing Ropes, Burning Coal, Hanging up meat & makeing battle axes for Corn
March 1st, Friday, 1805. It’s a nice day. I’m busy copying a map, while men are building pirogues, making ropes, burning coal, hanging up meat, and making battle axes for corn.
[Clark, March 2, 1805]
2nd of March 1805 Satturday a fine Day the river brake up in places all engaged about Something Mr. La Rocque a Clerk of the N W Company visit us, he has latterly returned from the Establishments on the Assinniboin River with Merchindize to tarade with Indians—Mr. L informs us the N, W. & X Y Companies have joined, & the head of the N W. Co. is Dead Mr. McTavish of Monteral,- visted by the Coal & Several Indians
2nd of March 1805, Saturday, a nice day. The river broke up in places; everyone was busy with something. Mr. La Rocque, a clerk from the Northwest Company, visited us. He has recently returned from the establishments on the Assiniboine River with goods to trade with the Indians. Mr. L informs us that the Northwest and XY Companies have merged, and the head of the Northwest Company has passed away—Mr. McTavish from Montreal—visited by the coal and several Indians.
[Clark, March 3, 1805]
3rd of March Sunday 1805 a fine Day wind from the W, a large flock of Ducks pass up the Rivervisited by the black Cat, Chief of the Mandans 2d Cheif and a Big Belley, they Stayed but a Short time we informed those Chiefs of the news recved from the Ricaras, all hands employd
3rd of March, Sunday 1805, a nice day with a wind from the west. A large flock of ducks passed up the river. We were visited by the black cat, chief of the Mandans, the second chief, and a big belly. They stayed for a short time. We informed those chiefs of the news we received from the Ricaras. Everyone was busy.
[Clark, March 4, 1805]
Fort Mandan 4th March Monday 1805 a Cloudy morning wind from the N W the after part of the day Clear, visited by the Black Cat & Big White, who brought a Small present of meat, an Engage of the N W Co. Came for a horse, and requested in the name of the woman of the princapal of his Department Some Silk of three Colours, which we furnished-. The Assinniboins who visited the Mandans a fiew Days ago returned and attempted to take horses of the Minetarres & were fired on by them
Fort Mandan, March 4, 1805, Monday. It was a cloudy morning with wind from the northwest. The afternoon turned clear. We were visited by Black Cat and Big White, who brought a small gift of meat. An employee of the Northwest Company came asking for a horse and requested, on behalf of the woman of his department's chief, some silk in three colors, which we provided. The Assiniboins, who visited the Mandans a few days ago, returned and tried to steal horses from the Minetarres but were shot at by them.
[Clark, March 5, 1805]
5th March Tuesday 1805 A fine Day Themometer at 40° abo 0. Several Indians visit us to day one frenchman cross to join a Indian the two pass through by Land to the Ricaras with a Letter to Mr. Tabbow
5th March Tuesday 1805 A fine Day Thermometer at 40° above 0. Several Indians visit us today; one Frenchman crossed to join an Indian. The two traveled by land to the Ricaras with a letter to Mr. Tabbow.
[Clark, March 6, 1805]
6th of March Wednesday 1805 a Cloudy morning & Smokey all Day from the burning of the plains, which was Set on fire by the Minetarries for an early crop of Grass as an endusement for the Buffalow to feed on—the horses which was Stolen Some time ago by the Assinniboins from the minetarries were returned yesterday—visited by Oh-harh or the Little fox 2d Chief of the lower Village of the Me ne tar ries—one man Shannon Cut his foot with the ads in working at a perogue, George & Graviline go to the Village, the river rise a little to day-
6th of March, Wednesday, 1805: It was a cloudy morning and smoky all day from the burning of the plains, which the Minetarries set on fire to promote early grass growth as bait for the buffalo to graze on. The horses that were stolen some time ago by the Assiniboins from the Minetarries were returned yesterday. I was visited by Oh-harh, the Little Fox, the second chief of the lower village of the Minetarries. One man, Shannon, cut his foot with an axe while working on a canoe. George and Graviline went to the village, and the river rose a little today.
[Clark, March 7, 1805]
7th of March Thursday 1805 a little Cloudy and windey N E. the Coal visited us with a Sick child, to whome I gave Some of rushes Pills—Shabounar returned this evening from the Gross Vintres & informed that all the nation had returned from the hunting—he our menetarre interpeter had received a present from Mr. Chaboilleiz of the N. W. Company of the following articles 3 Brace of Cloath 1 Brace of Scarlet a par Corduroy Overalls 1 Vests 1 Brace Blu Cloth 1 Brace red or Scarlet with 3 bars, 200 balls & Powder, 2 bracs Tobacco, 3 Knives.
7th of March, Thursday, 1805 - a bit cloudy and windy from the northeast. The coal miner visited us with a sick child, for whom I gave some of Rush's pills. Shabounar returned this evening from the Gross Vintres and informed us that the whole nation had come back from the hunt. He, our Menetarre interpreter, received a gift from Mr. Chaboilleiz of the N.W. Company, which included the following items: 3 pairs of cloth, 1 pair of scarlet, a pair of corduroy overalls, 1 vest, 1 pair of blue cloth, 1 pair of red or scarlet with 3 bars, 200 balls and powder, 2 packs of tobacco, and 3 knives.
[Clark, March 8, 1805]
8th of March Friday 1805 a fair morning Cold and windey, wind from the East, visited by the Greesey head & a Riarca to day, those men gave Some account of the Indians near the rockey mountains
8th of March, Friday, 1805: it was a nice morning, cold and windy, with the wind coming from the east. Today, I was visited by Greesey Head and a Riarca. They shared some information about the Indians near the Rocky Mountains.
a young Indian same nation & Differnt Village Stole the Doughter of the Black man, he went to his Village took his horse & returned & took away his doughter
A young Indian from the same nation but a different village kidnapped the daughter of the Black man. He went to his village, took his horse, and returned to take his daughter away.
[Clark, March 9, 1805]
on the 9th of March we were Visited by the Grand Chief of the Minetarres, to whome we gave a medal & Some Cloths & a flag. Sent a French Man & a Indian with a letter to Mr. Tabboe informing them the Ricarras of the desire the Mandans had to See them &. &.
On March 9th, we were visited by the Grand Chief of the Minetarres, to whom we gave a medal, some cloth, and a flag. We sent a Frenchman and an Indian with a letter to Mr. Tabboe to inform them of the Ricarras' desire for the Mandans to see them.
[Clark, March 9, 1805]
9th of March Satturday 1805 a Cloudy Cold and windey morning wind from the North—walked up to See the Party that is makeing Perogues, about 5 miles above this, the wind hard and Cold on my way up I met The Main Chief of the Manitarres with four Indians on Thier way to See us, I requested him to proceed on to the fort where he would find Capt. Lewis I should be there my Self in corse of a fiew hours, Sent the interpeter back with him and proceeded on my Self to the Canoes found them nearly finished, the timber verry bad, after visiting all the perogues where I found a number of Indans I wind to the upper mandan Village & Smoked a pipe the greatest mark of friendship and attention with the Chief and returned on my return found the Manitarree Chief about Setting out on his return to his village, having recieved of Captain M. Lewis a medel Gorget armbans, a Flag Shirt, Scarlet &c. &c. &c. for which he was much pleased Those Things were given in place of Sundery articles Sent to him which he Sais he did not receive 2 guns were fired for this Great man
9th of March, Saturday, 1805 - a cloudy, cold, and windy morning with the wind coming from the north. I walked to check on the team that's making canoes, about 5 miles upstream. The wind was strong and cold. On my way, I met the main chief of the Mandan tribe with four Indians who were coming to see us. I asked him to go on to the fort where he would find Captain Lewis; I would be there myself in a few hours. I sent the interpreter back with him and continued on to the canoes, finding them nearly finished, although the timber was very poor quality. After visiting all the canoes, where I encountered several Indians, I headed to the upper Mandan village and smoked a pipe, which is the greatest mark of friendship and respect with the chief. On my way back, I found the Mandan chief about to leave for his village after receiving from Captain M. Lewis a medal, gorget, armbands, a flag shirt, and various other gifts, which he was very pleased with. These items were given in place of several things he said he didn’t receive. Two guns were fired for this great man.
[Clark, March 10, 1805]
10th of March Sunday 1805. a Cold winday Day. we are visited by the Black mockersons, Chief of the 2d Manetarre Village and the Chief of the Shoeman Village or Mah ha ha V. those Chiefs Stayed all day and the latter all night and gave us many Strang accounts of his nation &c this Little tribe or band of Menitaraies Call themselves Ah-nah-haway or people whose village is on the hill. nation formerleyed lived about 30 miles below this but beeing oppressed by the Asinniboins & Sous were Compelled to move 5 miles the Minitaries, where, the Assinniboins Killed the most of. them those remaining built a village verry near to the Minitarries at the mouth of Knife R where they now live and Can raise about 50 men, they are intermixed with the Mandans & Minatariers—the Manclans formerly lived in 6 large villages at and above the mouth of Chischeter or Heart River five Villages on the West Side & two on the East one of those Villages on the East Side of the Missouri & the larges was intirely Cut off by the Sioux & the greater part of the others and the Small Pox reduced the others.
10th of March, Sunday 1805. A cold windy day. We were visited by the Black mockersons, Chief of the 2nd Manetarre Village and the Chief of the Shoeman Village, also known as Mah ha ha V. These chiefs stayed all day, and the latter stayed all night, sharing many strange stories about his people, etc. This small tribe or band of Menitaraies call themselves Ah-nah-haway, meaning people whose village is on the hill. Their nation used to live about 30 miles below this area but, being oppressed by the Asinniboins and Sous, they were forced to move 5 miles to the Minitaries, where the Asinniboins killed most of them. Those who remained built a village very close to the Minitaries at the mouth of Knife River, where they now live and can raise about 50 men. They are intermixed with the Mandans and Minatariers. The Manclans used to live in 6 large villages at and above the mouth of Chischeter, or Heart River—five villages on the west side and two on the east side. One of those villages on the east side of the Missouri, the largest, was completely cut off by the Sioux, and the majority of the others were reduced by smallpox.
[Clark, March 11, 1805]
Fort Mandan 11th of March Monday 1805 A Cloudy Cold windey day, Some Snow in the latter part of the day, we deturmin to have two other Perogues made for us to transport our Provisions &c.
Fort Mandan, March 11th, Monday, 1805 A cloudy, cold, windy day with some snow in the later part of the day. We decided to have two more canoes made for us to transport our supplies, etc.
We have every reason to believe that our Menetarre interpeter, (whome we intended to take with his wife, as an interpeter through his wife to the Snake Indians of which nation She is) has been Corupted by the ____ Companeys &c. Some explenation has taken place which Clearly proves to us the fact, we give him to night to reflect and deturmin whether or not he intends to go with us under the regulations Stated.
We have every reason to believe that our Menetarre interpreter, (whom we intended to take with his wife, as an interpreter through her to the Snake Indians of which she is a member) has been corrupted by the ____ companies, etc. Some explanation has occurred that clearly proves to us this fact. We give him tonight to reflect and decide whether or not he intends to go with us under the stated regulations.
[Clark, March 12, 1805]
12th a fine day Some Snow last night our Interpeter Shabonah, detumins on not proceeding with us as an interpeter under the terms mentioned yesterday he will not agree to work let our Situation be what it may not Stand a guard, and if miffed with any man he wishes to return when he pleases, also have the disposial of as much provisions as he Chuses to Carrye.
12th: A nice day. Some snow last night. Our interpreter, Shabonah, decides not to continue with us as an interpreter under the terms discussed yesterday. He won’t agree to work regardless of our situation. He won't stand guard, and if he has a disagreement with anyone, he wants the option to leave whenever he wants. He also wants to choose how much food he can carry.
in admissable and we Suffer him to be off the engagement which was only virbal wind N W
inadmissible and we allow him to be released from the engagement which was only verbal nonsense.
[Clark, March 13, 1805]
13th of March Wednesday 1805 a fine day visited by Mr. Mckinsey one of the Clerks of the N W Companey, the river riseing a little—maney Inds. here to day all anxiety for war axes the Smiths have not an hour of Idle time to Spear wind S W
13th of March, Wednesday, 1805: it’s a nice day. I had a visit from Mr. Mckinsey, one of the clerks from the Northwest Company. The river is rising a bit. There are many Indians here today, all anxious for war axes. The Smiths don’t have a moment of free time to spare. The wind is blowing from the southwest.
[Clark, March 14, 1805]
14th March Thursday 1805. a fine day Set all hands to Shelling Corn &c. Mr. McKinsey leave us to day maney Indians as usial. wind west river Still riseing
14th March Thursday 1805. A nice day. Everyone worked on shelling corn, etc. Mr. McKinsey left us today, many Indians as usual. The wind is from the west and the river is still rising.
[Clark, March 15, 1805]
15th of March Friday 1805 a fine day I put out all the goods & Parch meal Clothing &c to Sun, a number of Indians here to day They make maney remarks respecting our goods &c. Set Some men about Hulling Corn &c.
15th of March, Friday, 1805: It was a nice day. I put out all the goods, parched meal, clothing, etc., to dry in the sun. There are several Indians here today. They make many comments about our goods, etc. I had some men working on hulling corn and other tasks.
[Lewis, March 16, 1805]
March 16th, 1804. Mr. Gurrow a Frenchman who has lived many years with the Ricares & Mandans shewed us the process used by those Indians to make beads. the discovery of this art these nations are said to have derived from the Snake Indians who have been taken prisoners by the Ricaras. the art is kept a secret by the Indians among themselves and is yet known to but few of them.
March 16th, 1804. Mr. Gurrow, a Frenchman who has lived for many years with the Ricares and Mandans, showed us how those tribes make beads. It is said that these nations learned this craft from the Snake Indians who were captured by the Ricaras. The craft is kept secret among the Indians themselves and is known to only a few of them.
the Prosess is as follows,—Take glass of as many different colours as you think proper, then pound it as fine as possible puting each colour in a seperate vessel. wash the pounded glass in several waters throwing off the water at each washing. continue this opperation as long as the pounded glass stains or colours the water which is poured off and the residium is then prepared for uce. You then provide an earthen pot of convenient size say of three gallons which will stand the fire; a platter also of the same materials sufficiently small to be admitted in the mouth of the pot or jar. the pot has a nitch in it's edge through which to watch the beads when in blast. You then provide some well seasoned clay with a propertion of sand sufficient to prevent it's becoming very hard when exposed to the heat. this clay must be tempered with water untill it is about the consistency of common doe. of this clay you then prepare, a sufficient number of little sticks of the size you wish the hole through the bead, which you do by roling the clay on the palm of the hand with your finger. this done put those sticks of clay on the platter and espose them to a red heat for a few minutes when you take them off and suffer them to cool. the pot is also heated to cles it perfectly of any filth it may contain. small balls of clay are also mad of about an ounce weight which serve each as a pedestal for a bead. these while soft ar distributed over the face of the platter at such distance from each other as to prevent the beads from touching. some little wooden paddles are now provided from three to four inches in length sharpened or brought to a point at the extremity of the handle. with this paddle you place in the palm of the hand as much of the wet pounded glass as is necessary to make the bead of the size you wish it. it is then arranged with the paddle in an oblong form, laying one of those little stick of clay crosswise over it; the pounded glass by means of the paddle is then roped in cilindrical form arround the stick of clay and gently roled by motion of the hand backwards an forwards until you get it as regular and smooth as you conveniently can. if you wish to introduce any other colour you now purforate the surface of the bead with the pointed end of your little paddle and fill up the cavity with other pounded glass of the colour you wish forming the whole as regular as you can. a hole is now made in the center of the little pedestals of clay with the handle of your shovel sufficiently large to admit the end of the stick of clay arround which the bead is formed. the beads are then arranged perpindicularly on their pedestals and little distance above them supported by the little sticks of clay to which they are attatched in the manner before mentioned. Thus arranged the platter is deposited on burning coals or hot embers and the pot reversed with the apparture in it's edge turned towards coverd the whole. dry wood pretty much doated; is then plased arron the pot in sush manner as compleatly to cover it is then set on fire and the opperator must shortly after begin to watch his beads through the apparture of the pot lest they should be distroyed by being over heated. he suffers the beads to acquire a deep red heat from which when it passes in a small degree to a pailer or whitish red, or he discovers that the beads begin to become pointed at their upper extremities he removes the fire from about the pot and suffers the whole to cool gradually. the pot is then removed and the beads taken out. the clay which fills the hollow of the beads is picked out with an awl or nedle, the bead is then fit for uce. The Indians are extreemly fond of the large beads formed by this process. they use them as pendants to their years, or hair and sometimes wear them about their necks.
The process is as follows: Take glass in as many different colors as you like, then crush it as finely as possible, placing each color in a separate container. Rinse the crushed glass in several waters, discarding the water after each wash. Continue this until the rinsed glass no longer stains the water, and prepare the residue for use. Next, get a clay pot of a suitable size, about three gallons, that can withstand heat; also, find a platter made of the same material that fits into the mouth of the pot. The pot should have a notch on its edge so you can watch the beads while they are being heated. Then, prepare some well-seasoned clay mixed with enough sand to prevent it from hardening too much when exposed to heat. This clay must be mixed with water until it has the consistency of regular dough. From this clay, create a sufficient number of small sticks of the size you want for the hole through the bead by rolling the clay in your hand with your finger. Once that's done, place those clay sticks on the platter and allow them to dry at a red heat for a few minutes before removing them and letting them cool. Heat the pot to clean it out thoroughly. Also, make small balls of clay weighing about an ounce, which will serve as pedestals for the beads. While the clay is still soft, arrange these balls across the platter, spaced apart to ensure the beads don’t touch. Next, prepare small wooden paddles about three to four inches long, sharpened or pointed at the end. Using this paddle, take a sufficient amount of the wet crushed glass to make the bead you want. Shape it with the paddle into an oblong form, placing one of those little clay sticks across it; the crushed glass is then rolled in a cylindrical shape around the stick of clay and gently rolled back and forth in your hand until it's as regular and smooth as you can make it. If you want to add another color, puncture the surface of the bead with the pointed end of your paddle and fill the cavity with more crushed glass of your desired color, shaping the whole thing as uniformly as possible. Now make a hole in the center of the little clay pedestals with the handle of your paddle, large enough to fit the end of the stick of clay around which the bead is formed. The beads are then placed vertically on their pedestals, just above them, supported by the little clay sticks as previously described. Once arranged, place the platter on hot coals or embers and invert the pot over it, with the opening towards the covered area. Lay dry wood, mostly charred, over the pot to completely cover it, then set it on fire. The operator must keep an eye on the beads through the pot's opening to prevent them from overheating. Allow the beads to reach a deep red heat, and when they start to turn pale or whitish red, or if they begin to taper at the top, remove the fire from around the pot and let everything cool gradually. Afterwards, take off the pot and extract the beads. Use an awl or needle to pick out the clay filling the hollow parts of the beads, and then the beads are ready for use. The Indians are extremely fond of the large beads created by this method; they use them as earrings or in their hair, and sometimes wear them around their necks.
[Clark, March 16, 1805]
16th of March Satturday 1805 a Cloudy day wind from the S. E one Indian much displeased with whitehouse for Strikeing his hand when eating with a Spoon for behaveing badly. Mr. Garrow Shew'd us the way the ricaras made their large Beeds
16th of March, Saturday, 1805. It was a cloudy day with wind coming from the southeast. An Indian was very upset with Whitehouse for hitting his hand while he was eating with a spoon for behaving poorly. Mr. Garrow showed us how the Ricara made their large beads.
[Clark, March 17, 1805]
17th of March Sunday a windey Day attempted to air our goods &. Mr. Chabonah Sent a french man of our party that he was Sorry for the foolissh part he had acted and if we pleased he would accompany us agreeabley to the terms we had perposed and doe every thing we wished him to doe &c. &c. he had requested me Some thro our French inturpeter two days ago to excuse his Simplicity and take him into the cirvise, after he had taken his things across the River we called him in and Spoke to him on the Subject, he agreed to our terms and we agreed that he might go on with us &c &c. but fiew Indians here to day; the river riseing a little and Severall places open.
March 17th, Sunday, was a windy day. We tried to air out our goods. Mr. Chabonah sent a French man from our group to say he was sorry for the foolish things he had done, and if we were willing, he would join us under the terms we proposed and do everything we asked him to. Two days ago, he had asked me through our French interpreter to excuse his simplicity and let him be part of the group. After he moved his things across the river, we called him in and talked to him about it. He agreed to our terms, and we decided he could continue with us. However, there were only a few Indians here today; the river was rising a little, and several spots were open.
[Clark, March 18, 1805]
18th of March 1805 a cold cloudy Day wind from the N. I pack up all the merchindize into 8 packs equally devided So as to have Something of every thing in each Canoe & perogue I am informed of a Party of Christanoes & assinniboins being killed by the Sioux, 50 in Number near the Estableishments on the assinniboin R. a fiew days ago (the effect of Mr. Cammeron, revenge on the Chipaway for Killing 3 of his men) Mr. Tousent Chabono, Enlisted as an Interpreter this evening, I am not well to day.
18th of March 1805, a cold, cloudy day with wind from the north. I packed all the merchandise into 8 bundles, evenly divided so that there would be a bit of everything in each canoe and pirogue. I heard about a group of Christanoes and Assiniboins who were killed by the Sioux, 50 in total, near the establishments on the Assiniboine River a few days ago (a result of Mr. Cammeron's retaliation against the Chippewa for killing 3 of his men). Mr. Tousent Chabono signed on as an interpreter this evening. I'm not feeling well today.
[Clark, March 19, 1805]
19th of March 1805 Cold windey Day Cloudy Some little Snow last night Visited to Day by the big white & Little Crow, also a man & his wife with a Sick Child, I administer for the child I am told that two parties are gorn to war from the Big bellies and one other party going to war Shortly.
19th of March 1805 Cold, windy day. Cloudy. A little snow last night. Visited today by the Big White and Little Crow, along with a man and his wife who have a sick child. I provided care for the child. I hear that two groups have gone to war from the Big Bellies, and another group is preparing to go to war soon.
[Clark, March 20, 1805]
I visited the Mandans on the 20th & have the canoes taken to the River, ready to Decend to the fort when the River Clears,
I visited the Mandans on the 20th and had the canoes taken to the river, ready to head down to the fort when the river clears.
[Clark, March 20, 1805]
Fort Mandan 20th March Wednesday 1805. I with all the men which could be Speared from the Fort went to Canoes, there I found a number of Indians the men carried 4 to the River about 11/2 miles thro the Bottom, I visited the Chief of the Mandans in the Course of the Day and Smoked a pipe with himself and Several old men. cloudy wind hard from N.
Fort Mandan, March 20th, Wednesday, 1805. I went with all the men who could be spared from the Fort to the canoes. There, I encountered several Indians. The men carried four canoes to the river about 1.5 miles through the bottomlands. I visited the chief of the Mandans during the day and smoked a pipe with him and several elders. It was cloudy and the wind was strong from the north.
[Clark, March 21, 1805]
I return on the 21st and on my return I passed on the points of the high hills S. S. where I saw an emence quantity of Pumice Stone, and evident marks of the hills being on fire I collected some Pumice Stone, burnt Stone & hard earth and put them into a furnace, the hard earth melted and glazed the other two a part of which i, e, the Hard Clay became a Pumice-Stone, I also collected a Plant the root of which is a Cure for the Bite of a mad dog & Snake which I shall Send—Mr. Haney (I think it grows in the Blue R Barrens) the Indians make large Beeds of Different Colours-
I returned on the 21st, and during my trip back, I noticed a huge amount of pumice stone and clear signs of the hills being on fire. I collected some pumice stone, burnt stone, and hard earth and put them into a furnace. The hard earth melted and glazed the other two materials, and part of the hard clay turned into pumice stone. I also collected a plant whose root cures bites from rabid dogs and snakes, which I will send to Mr. Haney (I believe it grows in the Blue R Barrens). The Indians make large beads in different colors.
[Clark, March 21, 1805]
21st March Thursday 1805 a Cloudy Day Some snow, the men Carried the remaining the 2 remained Canoes to the River, all except 3 left to take care & complete the Canoes, returned to the fort with their baggage, on my return to day to the Fort I came on the points of the high hills, Saw an emence quantity of Pumice Stone on the Sides & foot of the hills and emence beds of Pumice Stone near the Tops of the hills with evident marks of the Hill haveing once been on fire, I collected Some the differnt i e Stone Pumice Stone & a hard earth and put them into a furnace the hard earth melted and glazed the others two and the hard Clay became a pumice Stone Glazed. I collected Some plants &c.
21st March Thursday 1805, a cloudy day with some snow. The men carried the last two canoes to the river; everyone except three stayed behind to finish and take care of the canoes. They returned to the fort with their bags. On my way back to the fort today, I came across the high points of the hills and saw a huge amount of pumice stone on the sides and foot of the hills, as well as large deposits of pumice stone near the tops, clearly indicating that the hills had once been on fire. I collected some of the different types of pumice stone and a hard earth, and put them into a furnace. The hard earth melted and glazed the other two, and the hard clay turned into a glazed pumice stone. I also gathered some plants, etc.
[Clark, March 22, 1805]
22nd of March 1805 Visited by the 2nd Chief of the Grand Village of the Minetarrees to whome we gave a medal & Some Clothes acknowledging him as a 2d Chief, he Delayed all night, & Saw the men Dance, which is common amusement with the men he returned the 23rd with Mr. La Rocque & McKinsey two of the N W. Companys Clerks—Some few Drops of rain this evening for the first time this Winter visited by many Indians to day
22nd of March 1805 Visited by the 2nd Chief of the Grand Village of the Minetarrees, to whom we gave a medal and some clothes, recognizing him as a 2nd Chief. He stayed overnight and watched the men dance, which is a common pastime for them. He returned on the 23rd with Mr. La Rocque and McKinsey, two clerks from the N.W. Company. We had a few drops of rain this evening for the first time this winter and were visited by many Indians today.
[Clark, March 22, 1805]
March 22, 1805 23rd of March Friday 1805 a Cloudy Day visited by Mrs. Lack McKinsey & the 2d Chief of the Bigbellies, the white wolf and many other Menataries, we gave a Medal Some Clothes and wampoms to the 2 Chief and Delivered a Speach, which they all appeared well pleased with in The evening the men Danced Mr. Jessomme displeased
March 22, 1805 23rd of March, Friday, 1805 It was a cloudy day when we had a visit from Mrs. Lack McKinsey and the second chief of the Bigbellies, the white wolf, and many other men. We presented a medal, some clothes, and wampum to the two chiefs and gave a speech, which they all seemed happy with. In the evening, the men danced, but Mr. Jessomme was not pleased.
[Clark, March 24, 1805]
24th of March Satturday 1805 after Brackfast Mr. La Rocke and Mr. McKinsey and the Chiefs & men of the Minetarras leave us—Soon after we were visited by a Brother of the Burnia who gave us a Vocabulary of his Language—the Coal & many other Mandans also visit us to Day. a find Day in the fore part in the evening a little rain & the first this winter
24th of March, Saturday, 1805. After breakfast, Mr. La Rocke, Mr. McKinsey, and the chiefs and men of the Minetarras left us. Soon after, we were visited by a brother from the Burnia who provided us with a vocabulary of his language. The Coal and several other Mandans also visited us today. It was a nice day for the most part, but we had a little rain in the evening, marking the first rain of this winter.
[Clark, March 25, 1805]
25th of March Sunday 1805 a Cloudy morning wind from the N E the after part of the Day fair, Several Indians visit us today, prepareing to Set out on our journey Saw Swans & wild Gees flying N E this evening
25th of March Sunday 1805 a cloudy morning, wind from the NE; the later part of the day was clear. Several Indians visited us today as we prepared to set out on our journey. We saw swans and wild geese flying NE this evening.
[Clark, March 25, 1805]
March 25, 1805 26h The ice broke up in Several places in the evenig broke away and was nearly takeing off our new Canoes river rise a little
March 25, 1805 26h The ice broke up in several places in the evening, breaking away and nearly taking our new canoes with it. The river rose a little.
[Clark, March 26, 1805]
26th of March Monday 1805 a find Day wind S. W. but fiew Inds visit us to day the Ice haveing broken up in Several places, The ice began to brake away this evening and was near distroying our Canoes as they wer decnding to the fort, river rose only 9 Inches to day prepareing to Depart
26th of March, Monday, 1805: A nice day, with the wind from the southwest. Few Indians visited us today since the ice has broken up in several places. The ice started to break away this evening and nearly destroyed our canoes as they were heading down to the fort. The river rose only 9 inches today, getting ready to depart.
[Clark, March 27, 1805]
27th of March Tuesday 1805 The river choked up with ice opposit to us and broke away in the evening raised only 1/2 Inch all employed prepareing to Set out
27th of March Tuesday 1805 The river was blocked with ice across from us and broke loose in the evening, rising only half an inch. Everyone was busy getting ready to set out.
[Clark, March 28, 1805]
28th had all the Canoes, the Perogus corked pitchd & lined cover the Cotton Wood, which is win Shaken (the Mandans feed their horses on the cotton wood Sticks in places of corn).
28th had all the canoes, the perogues corked, pitched, and lined to cover the cottonwood, which is used when shaken (the Mandans feed their horses cottonwood sticks instead of corn).
[Clark, March 28, 1805]
28th of March Friday 1805 a windey Blustering Day wind S W ice running the river Blocked up in view for the Space of 4 hours and gave way leaveing great quantity of ice on the Shallow Sand bars. had all the canoes corked pitched & tirred in and on the cracks and windshake which is universially in the Cotton wood
28th of March, Friday, 1805: It was a windy, blustery day with the wind coming from the southwest. Ice was moving in the river, which was blocked for about four hours, leaving a large amount of ice on the shallow sandbars. We had all the canoes corked, pitched, and prepared for the cracks and windshakes that are common in the cottonwood.
[Clark, March 28, 1805]
March 28, 1805 25th the ice Stoped running owing to Some obstickle above all prepareing to Set out but few Indians visit us to day they are watching to catch the floating Buffalow which brake through the ice in Crossing, those people are fond of those animals tainted and Catch great numbers every Spring
March 28, 1805 25th the ice stopped moving due to some obstacles upstream. We’re all getting ready to leave, but not many Indians came to see us today. They’re waiting to catch the floating buffalo that break through the ice while crossing. These people really like those animals and catch a lot of them every spring.
[Clark, March 29, 1805]
29th of March Satturday 1805 The ice has Stoped running owing to Som obstickle above, repare the Boat & Perogues, and prepareing to Set out but few Indians visit us to day they are now attending on the river bank to Catch the floating Buffalow
29th of March Saturday 1805 The ice has stopped flowing due to some obstruction upstream. We're repairing the boat and canoes and getting ready to set out, but few Indians visit us today; they are currently on the riverbank trying to catch the floating buffalo.
[Clark, March 30, 1805]
30th of March. The Ice is passing in great quantites, river ran a little, The Plains are on fire on both Sides of the river it is common for the indians to Set those Plains on fire near their village for the advantage of early Grass for the hors & as an inducement to the Buffalow to visit them
30th of March. The ice is melting away in large amounts, and the river is flowing a bit. The plains are on fire on both sides of the river; it's common for the Native Americans to ignite those plains near their village to encourage early grass for the horses and to attract the buffalo to visit them.
[Clark, March 30, 1805]
30th of March Sunday 1805 The obstickle broke away above & the ice came dow in great quantites the river rose 13 inches the last 24 hours I observed extrodanary dexterity of the Indians in jumping from one Cake of ice to another, for the purpose of Catching the buffalow as they float down maney of the Cakes of ice which they pass over are not two feet Square. The Plains are on fire in view of the fort on both Sides of the River, it is Said to be common for the Indians to burn the Plains near their villages every Spring for the benifit of ther horse, and to induce the Buffalow to come near to them.
30th of March, Sunday, 1805. The obstacle broke away above, and the ice came down in large quantities. The river rose 13 inches in the last 24 hours. I observed the incredible skill of the Indians as they jumped from one ice floe to another to catch the buffalo floating downstream. Many of the ice floes they passed over are less than two feet square. The plains are on fire in view of the fort on both sides of the river. It's said that it's common for the Indians to burn the plains near their villages every spring to benefit their horses and to attract the buffalo closer to them.
[Clark, March 31, 1805]
31 h of March Monday 1805 Cloudy Several gangus of Ducks and Gees pass up not much ice floating. All the party in high Spirits, but fiew nights pass without a Dance they are helth. except the-vn.—which is common with the Indians and have been communicated to many of our party at this place—those favores bieng easy acquired. all Tranquille
31st of March, Monday, 1805 Cloudy. Several groups of ducks and geese passed by, with not much ice floating. Everyone in the party is in good spirits, but few nights go by without a dance; they are healthy, except for a few cases—which is common among the Indians and has spread to many in our party here—those illnesses being easily passed around. All is calm.
[Clark, March 31, 1805]
31t of March Monday 1805 Cloudy Day Seven Gangs of Gees and Ducks pass up the river—but a Small portion of ice floating down to day—but fiew Inds visit us to day all the party in high Spirits they pass but fiew nights without amuseing themselves danceing possessing perfect harmony and good understanding towards each other Generally healthy except venerials complains which is verry Commion amongst the natives and the men Catch it from them
31st of March, Monday, 1805. Cloudy day. Seven groups of geese and ducks are moving up the river—but only a small amount of ice is floating down today. Few Indians visit us today; the whole party is in high spirits. They rarely go a night without entertaining themselves with dancing, showing perfect harmony and understanding toward each other. Generally healthy except for venereal issues, which are very common among the natives, and the men catch it from them.
[Clark, April 1, 1805]
April 1st 1805 we have Thunder lightning hail and rain to day the first rain of note Sinc the 15 of October last, I had the Boat Perogus & Canos put in the water, and expect to Set off the boat with despatches in her will go 6 Americans 3 frenchmen, and perhaps Several ricarra Chief imediately after we Shall assend in 2 perogus & 6 canoes, accompanied by 5 french who intends to assend a Short distance to trap the beavr which is in great abundance highr up our party will consist of one Interpter & Hunter, one French man as an interpreter with his two wives (this man Speaks Minetary to his wives who are L hiatars or Snake Indians of the nations through which we Shall pass, and to act as interpretress thro him)—26 americans & french my servant and an Mandan Indian and provisions for 4 months
April 1st, 1805: We have thunder, lightning, hail, and rain today—the first significant rain since October 15th last year. I had the boats, pirogues, and canoes put in the water and expect to set off with dispatches. There will be 6 Americans, 3 Frenchmen, and possibly several Ricarra chiefs. Immediately after, we will ascend in 2 pirogues and 6 canoes, accompanied by 5 Frenchmen who plan to travel a short distance to trap beaver, which are abundant further up. Our party will consist of one interpreter and hunter, one Frenchman as an interpreter with his two wives (this man speaks Minetare to his wives, who are Lhiatars or Snake Indians of the nations we will pass through, and will act as an interpreter through him)—26 Americans and French, my servant, a Mandan Indian, and provisions for 4 months.
[Clark, April 1, 1805]
Fort Mandan April the 1st Tuesday 1805 The fore part of to day haile rain with Thunder & lightning, the rain continued by intimitions all day, it is worthey of remark that this is the 1st rain which has fallen Since we have been here or Since the 15 of October last, except a fiew drops at two or three defferent times
Fort Mandan April 1st, Tuesday, 1805 The first part of today had hail and rain, along with thunder and lightning. The rain continued intermittently all day. It’s worth noting that this is the first rain we’ve had since we arrived here, or since October 15th of last year, except for a few drops two or three times.
had the Boat Perogus & Canoes all put into the water.
[Clark, April 2, 1805]
April the 2nd a Cold rain day we are writeing and prepareing dispatches all day—I conclude to Send my journal to the President of the United States in its original State for his own perusial, untill I call for it or Some friend if I should not return, an this journal is from the 13th of May 1804 untill the 3rd of April 1805. wrote untill verry late at night but little time to devote to my friends, the river is falling fast.
April 2nd, a chilly rainy day. We are writing and preparing dispatches all day. I’ve decided to send my journal to the President of the United States in its original form for his review, until I ask for it back or a friend can retrieve it if I don’t come back. This journal covers the period from May 13, 1804, to April 3, 1805. I wrote late into the night but had little time to spend with my friends; the river is dropping quickly.
[Clark, April 2, 1805]
April the 2nd Friday 1805 a cloudy day rained all the last night we are preparing to Set out all thing nearly ready. The 2d Chief of the 2d Mandan Village took a miff at our not attending to him perticelarely after being here about ten day and moved back to his village
April 2nd, Friday, 1805. It was a cloudy day; it rained all night. We are preparing to set out; everything is nearly ready. The 2nd Chief of the 2nd Mandan Village got upset that we hadn’t given him enough attention after being here for about ten days, and he went back to his village.
The mandans Killed twenty one elk yesterday 15 miles below this, they were So meager that they Scercely fit for use
The Mandans killed twenty-one elk yesterday, 15 miles below here. They were so lean that they barely fit for use.
[Clark, April 3, 1805]
3rd of April we Shall pack up to day and Set out tomorrow.
3rd of April, we will pack up today and head out tomorrow.
[Clark, April 3, 1805] April the 3rd Thursday 1805 a white frost this morning, Some ice on the edge of the water, a fine day Pack up and prepare to load
[Clark, April 3, 1805] April 3rd, Thursday, 1805 There was a white frost this morning, some ice along the edge of the water, and it turned out to be a nice day. Let's pack up and get ready to load.
Mrs. La Roche & McKinsey Clerk to the N W. Compy. visit us. Mr. McKinzey wishes to get pay for his horse lost in our Service this winter and one of which was robed this winter by the Tetons, we Shall pay this man for his horse. we are all day ingaged packing up Sundery articles to be Sent to the President of the U. S.
Mrs. La Roche and the McKinsey Clerk from the Northwest Company are visiting us. Mr. McKinsey wants payment for his horse that was lost while serving with us this winter, and for another that was stolen by the Tetons. We will pay this man for his horse. We are busy all day packing various items to send to the President of the U.S.
bow an quiver of arrows-with some Ricara's tobacco seed
bow and a quiver of arrows—with some Ricara’s tobacco seed
No. 11 a Martin Skin, Containing the tail of a Mule Deer, a weasel and three Squirels from the Rockey mountains.
No. 11 a Martin Skin, containing the tail of a mule deer, a weasel, and three squirrels from the Rocky Mountains.
No. 12. The bones & Skeleton of a Small burrowing wolf of the Praries the Skin being lost by accident.
No. 12. The bones & skeleton of a small burrowing wolf from the plains, the skin having been lost by accident.
No. 99 The Skeliton of the white and Grey hare.
No. 99 The Skeleton of the White and Grey Hare.
Box No. 2, contains 4 Buffalow Robes, and a ear of Mandan Corn.
Box No. 2 contains 4 buffalo robes and a ear of Mandan corn.
The large Trunk Contains a male & female Brarow and female's Skeliton.
The large trunk contains a male and female Brarow and the female's skeleton.
a Carrote of Ricaras Tobacco
a stick of Ricaras tobacco
a red fox Skin Containing a Magpie.
a red fox skin containing a magpie.
No. 14 Minitarras Buffalow robe Containing Some articles of Indian dress.
No. 14 Minitarras Buffalo robe containing some articles of Native American clothing.
No. 15 a Mandan robe containing two burrowing Squirels, a white weasel and the Skin of a Loucirvea.
No. 15 a Mandan robe featuring two burrowing squirrels, a white weasel, and the skin of a loup-cervier.
also
also
13 red fox Skins.
1 white Hare Skin &.
4 horns of the mountain ram
1 Robe representing a battle between the Sioux & Ricaras,
Minetarras and Mandans.
13 red fox skins.
1 white hare skin &.
4 horns from the mountain ram.
1 robe depicting a battle between the Sioux & Ricaras, Minetarras, and Mandans.In Box No. 3.
In Box #3.
nos. 1 & 2 The Skins of the Male & female Antelope with their Skelitons. & the Skin of a yellow Bear which I obtained from the Scions
nos. 1 & 2 The skins of the male and female antelope along with their skeletons, and the skin of a yellow bear that I got from the Scions.
No. 4. Box Specimens of plants numbered from 1 to 67.
No. 4. Box specimens of plants numbered 1 to 67.
Specimens of Plants numbered frome 1 to 60.
Specimens of Plants numbered from 1 to 60.
1 Earthen pot Such as the Mandans Manufacture and use for
culinary purposes.
1 Earthen pot, like the ones made and used by the Mandans for cooking.
Box No 4 Continued
Box No 4 Continued
1 Tin box, containing insects mice &c. a Specimine of the fur of the antelope.
1 Tin box, containing insects, mice, etc. a specimen of the fur of the antelope.
a Specimon of a plant, and a parcel of its roots highly prized by the natives as
a sample of a plant, and a bundle of its roots highly valued by the locals as
an efficatious remidy in Cases of the bite of the rattle Snake or Mad Dog.
an effective remedy for cases of the bite of a rattlesnake or mad dog.
In a large Trunk
In a big trunk
Skins of a Male and female Braro, or burrowing Dog of the Prarie, with the Skeliton of the female.
Skins of a male and female Braro, or burrowing dog of the prairie, along with the skeleton of the female.
1 Skin of the red fox Containing a Magpie.
1 Skin of the red fox with a Magpie.
2 Cased Skins of the white hare.
2 Cased Skins of the white hare.
1 Minitarra Buffalow robe Containing Some articles of Indian Dress
1 Minitarra Buffalow robe Containing Some articles of Indian Dress
1 Mandan Buffalow robe Containing a dressed Lousirva Skin, and 2 Cased Skins of the Burrowing Squirel of the Praries.
1 Mandan buffalo robe containing a dressed Louisianna skin, and 2 cased skins of the burrowing squirrel of the prairies.
13 red fox Skins
13 red fox pelts
4 Horns of the Mountain Ram or big horn.
4 Horns of the Mountain Ram or big horn.
1 Buffalow robe painted by a mandan man representing a battle fought 8 years Since by the Sioux & Ricaras against the mandans, menitarras & Ah wah bar ways (Mandans &c. on horseback)
1 Buffalo robe painted by a Mandan man depicting a battle fought 8 years ago by the Sioux and Ricaras against the Mandans, Menitarras, and Ahwahbawis (Mandans, etc. on horseback)
Cage No. 6.
Cage #6.
Contains a liveing burrowing Squirel of the praries
Contains a living burrowing squirrel of the prairies
Cage No. 7.
Cage #7.
Contains 4 liveing magpies
Contains 4 living magpies
Cage No. 9.
Cage #9.
Containing a liveing hen of the Prarie
Containing a living hen of the Prairie
a large par of Elks horns containing by the frontal bone-
a large part of an elk's antlers connected by the frontal bone-
[Clark, April 4, 1805] April the 4th 1805 Wednesday a blustering windey Day the Clerks of the N W. Co. leave us we are arrangeing all things to Set out &c.
[Clark, April 4, 1805] April 4, 1805, Wednesday A blustery, windy day. The clerks of the N.W. Co. have left us. We are organizing everything to set out, etc.
[Clark, April 5, 1805]
April the 5th 1805 Thursday we have our 2 perogues & Six Canoes loaded with our Stores & provisions, principally provisions. the wind verry high from the N W. a number of Mandans visit us to day
April 5, 1805, Thursday: We have our 2 pirogues and six canoes loaded with our supplies and provisions, mostly provisions. The wind is very strong from the northwest. A number of Mandans visit us today.
[Clark, April 6, 1805]
April the 6th Friday Saturday 1805 a fine day visited by a number of mandans, we are informed of the arrival of the whole of the ricarra nation on the other Side of the river near their old village. we Sent an interpreter to See with orders to return imediately and let us know if their Chiefs ment to go down to See their great father.
April 6th, Friday, Saturday, 1805—a beautiful day, visited by several Mandans. We were informed about the arrival of the entire Ricara nation on the other side of the river, near their old village. We sent an interpreter to see them, with orders to return immediately and let us know if their chiefs intended to come down to see their great father.
[Lewis, April 7, 1805]
Fort Mandan April 7th 1805. Having on this day at 4 P.M. completed every arrangement necessary for our departure, we dismissed the barge and crew with orders to return without loss of time to S. Louis, a small canoe with two French hunters accompanyed the barge; these men had assended the missouri with us the last year as engages. The barge crew consisted of six soldiers and two ____ Frenchmen; two Frenchmen and a Ricara Indian also take their passage in her as far as the Ricara Vilages, at which place we expect Mr. Tiebeau to embark with his peltry who in that case will make an addition of two, perhaps four men to the crew of the barge. We gave Richard Warfington, a discharged Corpl., the charge of the Barge and crew, and confided to his care likewise our dispatches to the government, letters to our private friends, and a number of articles to the President of the United States. One of the Frenchmen by the Name of Gravline an honest discrete man and an excellent boat-man is imployed to conduct the barge as a pilot; we have therefore every hope that the barge and with her our dispatches will arrive safe at St. Louis. Mr. Gravlin who speaks the Ricara language extreemly well, has been imployed to conduct a few of the Recara Chiefs to the seat of government who have promised us to decend in the barge to St. Liwis with that view.-
Fort Mandan, April 7, 1805. Today at 4 PM, we finished all the arrangements needed for our departure. We sent the barge and its crew back to St. Louis without delay. A small canoe carrying two French hunters is accompanying the barge; these men traveled up the Missouri with us last year as engaged workers. The barge crew includes six soldiers and two Frenchmen. Two more Frenchmen and a Ricara Indian will also ride along as far as the Ricara villages, where we expect Mr. Tiebeau to board with his furs. If that happens, he will add two or maybe four more men to the barge crew. We entrusted Richard Warfington, a discharged corporal, with the barge and crew, as well as our dispatches to the government, letters to our private friends, and several items for the President of the United States. One of the Frenchmen, named Gravline, is a trustworthy, discreet man and an excellent boatman, and he has been hired as the barge's pilot. We are confident that both the barge and our dispatches will reach St. Louis safely. Mr. Gravlin, who speaks the Ricara language extremely well, is also helping to escort a few Ricara chiefs to the seat of government. They have promised to travel down to St. Louis with us for that purpose.
At same moment that the Barge departed from Fort Mandan, Capt. Clark embaked with our party and proceeded up the river. as I had used no exercise for several weeks, I determined to walk on shore as far as our encampment of this evening; accordingly I continued my walk on the N. side of the River about six miles, to the upper Village of the Mandans, and called on the Black Cat or Pose cop'se ha, the great chief of the Mandans; he was not at home; I rested myself a minutes, and finding that the party had not arrived I returned about 2 miles and joined them at their encampment on the N. side of the river opposite the lower Mandan village. Our party now consisted of the following Individuals. Sergts. John Ordway, Nathaniel Prior, & Patric Gass; Privates, William Bratton, John Colter, Reubin, and Joseph Fields, John Shields, George Gibson, George Shannon, John Potts, John Collins, Joseph Whitehouse, Richard Windsor, Alexander Willard, Hugh Hall, Silas Goodrich, Robert Frazier, Peter Crouzatt, John Baptiest la Page, Francis Labiech, Hue McNeal, William Werner, Thomas P. Howard, Peter Wiser, and John B. Thompson.
At the same moment the Barge left Fort Mandan, Capt. Clark and our group headed up the river. Since I hadn't exercised in several weeks, I decided to walk onshore as far as our campsite for the evening. I continued my walk on the north side of the river for about six miles, reaching the upper village of the Mandans, and I visited the Black Cat, or Pose cop'se ha, the great chief of the Mandans; he wasn't home. I rested for a few minutes, and when I realized the group hadn't arrived yet, I walked back about two miles to join them at their encampment on the north side of the river, across from the lower Mandan village. Our party now included the following individuals: Sergeants John Ordway, Nathaniel Prior, and Patric Gass; Privates William Bratton, John Colter, Reubin, and Joseph Fields, John Shields, George Gibson, George Shannon, John Potts, John Collins, Joseph Whitehouse, Richard Windsor, Alexander Willard, Hugh Hall, Silas Goodrich, Robert Frazier, Peter Crouzatt, John Baptiest la Page, Francis Labiech, Hue McNeal, William Werner, Thomas P. Howard, Peter Wiser, and John B. Thompson.
Interpreters, George Drewyer and Tauasant Charbono also a Black man by the name of York, servant to Capt. Clark, an Indian Woman wife to Charbono with a young child, and a Mandan man who had promised us to accompany us as far as the Snake Indians with a view to bring about a good understanding and friendly intercourse between that nation and his own, the Minetares and Ahwahharways.
Interpreters George Drewyer and Toussaint Charbono, along with a Black man named York, who was Captain Clark's servant, an Indian woman who was Charbono's wife with a young child, and a Mandan man who had promised to travel with us to the Snake Indians in hopes of fostering good relations and friendly interactions between that nation and his own, the Minetares and Ahwahharways.
Our vessels consisted of six small canoes, and two large perogues. This little fleet altho not quite so rispectable as those of Columbus or Capt. Cook were still viewed by us with as much pleasure as those deservedly famed adventurers ever beheld theirs; and I dare say with quite as much anxiety for their safety and preservation. we were now about to penetrate a country at least two thousand miles in width, on which the foot of civillized man had never trodden; the good or evil it had in store for us was for experiment yet to determine, and these little vessells contained every article by which we were to expect to subsist or defend ourselves. however as this the state of mind in which we are, generally gives the colouring to events, when the immagination is suffered to wander into futurity, the picture which now presented itself to me was a most pleasing one. entertaing as I do, the most confident hope of succeading in a voyage which had formed a darling project of mine for the last ten years, I could but esteem this moment of my departure as among the most happy of my life. The party are in excellent health and sperits, zealously attatched to the enterprise, and anxious to proceed; not a whisper of murmur or discontent to be heard among them, but all act in unison, and with the most perfect harmony. I took an early supper this evening and went to bed. Capt. Clark myself the two Interpretters and the woman and child sleep in a tent of dressed skins. this tent is in the Indian stile, formed of a number of dressed Buffaloe skins sewed together with sinues. it is cut in such manner that when foalded double it forms the quarter of a circle, and is left open at one side where it may be attatched or loosened at pleasure by strings which are sewed to its sides to the purpose. to erect this tent, a parsel of ten or twelve poles are provided, fore or five of which are attatched together at one end, they are then elivated and their lower extremities are spread in a circular manner to a width proportionate to the demention of the lodge, in the same position orther poles are leant against those, and the leather is then thrown over them forming a conic figure.
Our boats were made up of six small canoes and two large pirogues. This little fleet, while not as impressive as those of Columbus or Captain Cook, brought us just as much joy as those well-known explorers felt for theirs. I can confidently say we felt just as anxious for our safety and success. We were about to explore a land at least two thousand miles wide, where no civilized human being had ever stepped foot. The good or bad fortune waiting for us was yet to be discovered, and these small vessels held everything we needed to survive and protect ourselves. However, our state of mind often colors our experiences, especially when our imaginations take us into the future. The vision that unfolded in my mind was a very pleasant one. Holding the strongest hope of succeeding in a journey I had dreamed about for the last ten years, I viewed this moment of departure as one of the happiest of my life. The group was in great health and spirits, enthusiastically committed to the mission and eager to move forward; there was not a hint of complaint or discontent among them. Everyone was working together in perfect harmony. I had an early dinner this evening and went to bed. Captain Clark, the two interpreters, the woman, and the child shared a tent made of dressed skins. This tent was in the style of the Indians, made from several buffalo hides sewn together with sinew. It was designed so that when folded in half, it formed a quarter circle and could be opened on one side. It could be tied or released as needed using strings sewn to its sides. To set up this tent, we used a bunch of ten or twelve poles. Four or five of them were joined at one end, raised up, and their lower ends were spread out in a circular shape to match the size of the lodge. Then, other poles were leaned against these, and the leather was thrown over them to create a cone shape.
[Clark, April 7, 1805]
7th of April Satturday 1805" a windey day, The Interpreter we Sent to the Villages returned with Chief of the Ricara's & 3 men of that nation this Chief informed us that he was Sent by his nation to Know the despositions of the nations in this neighbourhood in respect to the recara's Settleing near them, that he had not yet made those arrangements, he request that we would Speek to the Assinniboins, & Crow Inds. in their favour, that they wished to follow our directions and be at peace with all, he viewed all nations in this quarter well disposed except the Sioux. The wish of those recaras appears to be a junction with the Mandans & Minetarras in a Defensive war with the Sioux who rob them of every Spece of property in Such a manner that they Cannot live near them any longer. I told this Chief we were glad to See him, and we viewed his nation as the Dutifull Children of a Great father who would extend his protection to all those who would open their ears to his good advice, we had already Spoken to the Assinniboins, and Should Speeke to the Crow Indians if we Should See them &c. as to the Sioux their Great father would not let them have any more good Guns &c. would take Care to prosu Such measurs as would provent those Sioux from Murding and taking the property from his dutyfull red Children &c.—we gave him a certificate of his good Conduct & a Small Medal, a Carrot of Tobacco and a String of Wompom—he requested that one of his men who was lame might decend in the boat to their nation and returned to the Mandans well Satisfied
7th of April, Saturday 1805 - It was a windy day. The interpreter we sent to the villages returned with the chief of the Ricara and three men from that nation. This chief informed us that he was sent by his people to learn about the attitudes of the neighboring nations regarding the Ricara settling near them. He had not yet made those arrangements. He requested that we speak to the Assiniboins and Crow Indians on their behalf, expressing their desire to follow our guidance and maintain peace with everyone. He saw all nations in this area as friendly except for the Sioux. The Ricara seem to want to join forces with the Mandans and Minetarras in a defensive war against the Sioux, who steal all their belongings, making it impossible for them to live nearby. I told this chief that we were pleased to see him and regarded his nation as dutiful children of a great father who would extend his protection to anyone who listened to his good advice. We had already spoken to the Assiniboins and would speak to the Crow Indians if we encountered them. As for the Sioux, their great father would not allow them to get any more good guns and would ensure measures were taken to prevent the Sioux from killing and robbing his dutiful red children. We gave him a certificate of good conduct, a small medal, a carrot of tobacco, and a string of wampum. He requested that one of his men who was lame could travel in the boat back to their nation, and he returned to the Mandans feeling satisfied.
The name of this Chief of War is Kah-kah, we to-Raven brave.
This Cheif delivered us a letter from Mr. Taboe. informing us of the wish of the Grand Chiefs of the Ricarras to visit their Great father and requesting the privolage of put'g on board the boat 3000 w of Skins &c. & adding 4 hands and himself to the party. this preposeal we Shall agree to, as that addition will make the party in the boat 15 Strong and more able to defend themselves from the Seoux &c.
This chief delivered a letter from Mr. Taboe, informing us that the Grand Chiefs of the Ricarras want to visit their Great Father and are requesting the privilege of putting 3,000 weights of skins and other items on board the boat. They would also like to add four more people, including themselves, to the party. We will agree to this proposal, as that addition will make the group in the boat 15 strong and better able to defend themselves against the Sioux and others.
[Clark, April 7, 1805]
Fort Mandan April 7th 1805" Sunday, at 4 oClock P M, the Boat, in which was 6 Soldiers 2 frenchmen & an Indian, all under the command of a corporal who had the charge of dispatches, &c.-and a Canoe with 2 french men, Set out down the river for St. Louis. at the same time we Sout out on our voyage up the river in 2 perogues and 6 canoes, and proceded on to the 1st villg. of Mandans & Camped on the S. S.—our party consisting of Sergt. Nathaniel Pryor Sgt. John Ordway Sgt. Pat. Gass, William Bratten, John Colter Joseph & Reubin Fields, John Shields George Gibson George Shannon, John Potts, John Collins, Jos. Whitehouse, Richard Windser, Alexander Willard, Hugh Hall, Silas Gutrich, Robert Frazure, Peter Crouzat, John Baptiest la page, Francis Labich, Hugh McNeal, William Werner, Thomas P. Howard, Peter Wiser, J. B. Thompson and my Servent york, George Drewyer who acts as a hunter & interpreter, Shabonah and his Indian Squar to act as an Interpreter & interpretress for the snake Indians-one Mandan & Shabonahs infant. Sah-kah-gar we a
Fort Mandan April 7th 1805" Sunday, at 4 PM, the boat carrying 6 soldiers, 2 Frenchmen, and an Indian, all under the command of a corporal in charge of dispatches, set out down the river for St. Louis. At the same time, we started our journey up the river in 2 pirogues and 6 canoes, proceeding to the first village of the Mandans and camping on the south side. Our party included Sgt. Nathaniel Pryor, Sgt. John Ordway, Sgt. Pat. Gass, William Bratten, John Colter, Joseph and Reubin Fields, John Shields, George Gibson, George Shannon, John Potts, John Collins, Joseph Whitehouse, Richard Windser, Alexander Willard, Hugh Hall, Silas Gutrich, Robert Frazure, Peter Crouzat, John Baptiest La Page, Francis Labich, Hugh McNeal, William Werner, Thomas P. Howard, Peter Wiser, J. B. Thompson, and my servant York, along with George Drewyer, who serves as a hunter and interpreter, Shabonah and his Indian wife, who will assist as interpreters for the Snake Indians—one Mandan and Shabonah's infant. Sah-kah-gar we a
[Lewis, April 8, 1805]
April 8th Set out early this morning, the wind blew hard against us from the N. W. we therefore traveled very slowly. I walked on shore, and visited the black Cat, took leave of him after smoking a pipe as is their custom, and then proceeded on slowly by land about four miles where I wated the arrival of the party, at 12 Oclock they came up and informed me that one of the small canoes was behind in distress. Capt Clark returned foud she had filled with water and all her loading wet. we lost half a bag of hisquit, and about thirty pounds of powder by this accedent; the powder we regard as a serious loss, but we spread it to dry immediately and hope we shall still be enabled to restore the greater part of it. this was the only powder we had which was not perfectly secure from geting wet. we took dinner at this place, and then proceed on to oure encampment, which was on the S. side opposite to a high bluff. the Mandan man came up after we had encamped and brought with him a woman who was extreemly solicitous to accompany one of the men of our party, this however we positively refused to permit.
April 8th We set out early this morning, and the wind was blowing hard against us from the Northwest, so we traveled very slowly. I walked along the shore and visited the black Cat, saying goodbye after sharing a pipe as is their custom. Then I continued on foot for about four miles, where I waited for the group to arrive. At noon, they caught up with me and informed me that one of the small canoes was behind and in trouble. Captain Clark returned and found that it had filled with water, soaking all its cargo. We lost half a bag of hardtack and about thirty pounds of powder due to this incident; we consider the loss of the powder quite serious, but we spread it out to dry immediately and hope we can salvage most of it. This was the only powder we had that wasn’t completely secure from getting wet. We had lunch at this spot and then proceeded to our campsite, which was on the south side opposite a high bluff. A Mandan man came over after we set up camp and brought with him a woman who was very eager to join one of the men in our group, but we firmly refused to allow that.
From the upper point on an island (being the point to which Capt. Clark took his last course when he assended the river in surch of a place for winter quarters 1st November last) to a point of wood land Stard side, passing a high bluff on the Lard. N 40° W. 31/2
From the highest point on an island (which is the point where Capt. Clark set his last course when he ascended the river in search of a spot for winter quarters on November 1st) to a wooded area on the starboard side, passing a steep bluff on the port side. N 40° W. 3.5
[Clark, April 8, 1805]
8th of April Monday 1805 Set out verry early wind hard a head from the N. W. proceeded on passed all the villages the inhabitents of which flocked down in great numbers to view us, I took my leave of the great Chief of the Mandans who gave me a par of excellent mockersons, one Canoe filed with water every thing in her got wet. 2/3 of a barrel of powder lost by this accedent.
8th of April, Monday, 1805 We set out very early with a strong headwind from the Northwest. We passed all the villages, where the inhabitants gathered in large numbers to see us. I took my leave of the great Chief of the Mandans, who gave me a pair of excellent moccasins. One canoe filled with water, and everything inside got wet. We lost two-thirds of a barrel of powder because of this accident.
Camped on the S. S. opsd. a high bluff an Indian joined us, also an Indian woman with a view to accompany us, the woman was Sent back the man being acquainted with the Countrey we allowed him to accompanie ns
Camped on the S. S. opsd. a high bluff, an Indian joined us, along with an Indian woman who intended to accompany us. The woman was sent back, and since the man was familiar with the area, we allowed him to join us.
[Lewis, April 9, 1805]
Tuesday April 9th Set out as early as it was possible to see this morning and proceed about five miles where we halted and took beakfas—the Indian man who had promised us to accompany us as far as the Snake Indians, now informed us of his intention to relinquish the journey, and accordingly returned to his village. we saw a great number of brant passing up the river, some of them were white, except the large feathers in the first and second joint of the wing which are black. there is no other difference between them and the common gray brant but that of their colour—their note and habits are the same, and they are freequently seen to associate together. I have not yet positively determined whether they are the same, or a different species.—Capt Clark walked on shore to-day and informed me on his return, that passing through the prarie he had seen an anamal that precisely resembled the burrowing squrril, accept in point of size, it being only about one third as large as the squirrel, and that it also burrows. I have observed in many parts of the plains and praries the work of an anamal of which I could never obtain a view. their work resembles that of the salamander common to the sand hills of the States of South Carolina and Georgia; and like that anamal also it never appears above the ground. the little hillocks which are thrown up by these anamals have much the appearance of ten or twelve pounds of loose earth poared out of a vessel on the surface of the plain. in the state they leave them you can discover no whole through which they throw out this earth; but by removing the loose earth gently you may discover that the soil has been broken in a circle manner for about an inch and a half in diameter, where it appears looser than the adjacent surface, and is certainly the place through which the earth has been thrown out, tho the operation is performed without leaving any visible aperture.—the Bluffs of the river which we passed today were upwards of a hundred feet high, formed of a mixture of yellow clay and sand—many horizontal stratas of carbonated wood, having every appearance of pitcoal at a distance; were seen in the the face of these bluffs. these stratas are of unequal thicknesses from I to 5 feet, and appear at different elivations above the water some of them as much as eighty feet. the hills of the river are very broken and many of them have the apearance of having been on fire at some former period. considerable quantities of pumice stone and lava appear in many parts of these hills where they are broken and washed down by the rain and melting snow. when we halted for dinner the squaw busied herself in serching for the wild artichokes which the mice collect and deposit in large hoards. this operation she performed by penetrating the earth with a sharp stick about some small collections of drift wood. her labour soon proved successful, and she procurrd a good quantity of these roots. the flavor of this root resembles that of the Jerusalem Artichoke, and the stalk of the weed which produces it is also similar, tho both the root and stalk are much smaller than the Jarusalem Artichoke. the root is white and of an ovate form, from one to three inches in length and usually about the size of a man's finger. one stalk produces from two to four, and somitimes six of these roots.
Tuesday, April 9th - We set out as early as we could see this morning and moved about five miles before stopping for breakfast. The Indian man who had promised to travel with us as far as the Snake Indians now informed us that he intended to leave the journey and returned to his village. We saw a lot of brant flying up the river; some were white except for the large black feathers on the first and second joints of the wing. There is no other difference between them and the common gray brant except for their color—their calls and behaviors are the same, and they often seen together. I still haven’t positively determined whether they are the same species or a different one. Capt. Clark walked on shore today and, upon his return, told me that while passing through the prairie, he saw an animal that looked just like a burrowing squirrel, except in size; it was only about a third of the size of a squirrel, and it also burrows. I’ve noticed in many areas of the plains and prairies the work of an animal that I could never see. Their work resembles that of the salamander common in the sand hills of South Carolina and Georgia, and like that animal, it never shows above ground. The little mounds created by these animals look like ten or twelve pounds of loose earth poured out on the surface of the plain. In the state they leave them, you can’t find a hole through which they expelled the earth; but by gently removing the loose soil, you can see that the ground has been disturbed in a circular pattern about an inch and a half in diameter, appearing looser than the surrounding soil, and it’s definitely the spot where the earth has been thrown out, even though the process leaves no visible opening. The river’s bluffs we passed today were over a hundred feet high and made up of a mix of yellow clay and sand. Many horizontal layers of carbonized wood, looking like coal from a distance, were visible in the face of these bluffs. These layers vary in thickness from one to five feet and appear at different elevations above the water, with some as high as eighty feet. The hills along the river are quite rugged, and many look like they had been on fire at some point in the past. Considerable amounts of pumice stone and lava can be found in various parts of these hills, washed down by rain and melting snow. When we stopped for lunch, the woman in our group busied herself searching for wild artichokes that mice gather and store in large hoards. She did this by digging into the ground with a sharp stick near some small piles of driftwood. Her efforts paid off, and she managed to gather a good amount of these roots. The taste of this root is similar to that of the Jerusalem Artichoke, and the stalk of the plant is also alike, though both the root and stalk are much smaller than the Jerusalem Artichoke. The root is white and oval-shaped, ranging from one to three inches in length, usually about the size of a man's finger. One stalk can produce two to four, and sometimes six of these roots.
at the distance of 6 miles passed a large wintering or hunting camp of the Minetares on the Stard. side. these lodges about thirty in number are built of earth and timber in their usual stile. 21/4 miles higher we passed the entrance of Miry Creek, which discharges itself on the Stard. side. this creek is but small, takes it's rise in some small lakes near the Mouse river and passes in it's course to the Missouri, through beatifull, level, and fertile plains, intirely destitute of timber.—Three miles above the mouth of this creek we passed a hunting camp of Minetares who had prepared a park and were wating the return of the Antelope; which usually pass the Missouri at this season of the year from the Black hills on the South side, to the open plains on the north side of the river; in like manner the Antelope repasses the Missouri from N. to South in the latter end of Autumn, and winter in the black hills, where there is considerable bodies of woodland. we proceed on 111/2 miles further and encamped on the N. side in a most beatifull high extensive open bottom
About 6 miles away, we passed a large wintering or hunting camp of the Minetares on the east side. There were about thirty lodges built from earth and wood in their usual style. A little over 2 miles further up, we passed the entrance of Miry Creek, which flows into the east side. This creek is quite small; it begins in some small lakes near the Mouse River and flows through beautiful, flat, fertile plains that have no trees. Three miles above the creek’s mouth, we passed another hunting camp of the Minetares who had set up a park and were waiting for the return of the antelope. These antelope typically cross the Missouri this time of year from the Black Hills on the south side to the open plains on the north side of the river. Similarly, the antelope will cross back from north to south at the end of autumn and spend the winter in the Black Hills, where there are significant areas of forest. We continued on for another 11.5 miles and set up camp on the north side in a beautiful, high, expansive open area.
[Clark, April 9, 1805]
9th of April Tuesday 1805. Set out this morning verry early under a gentle breeze from the S. E. at Brackfast the Indian deturmined to return to his nation. I saw a Musquetor to day great numbers of Brant flying up the river, the Maple, & Elm has buded & Cotton and arrow wood beginning to bud. I saw in the prarie an animal resembling the Prarie dog or Barking Squirel & burrow in the Same way, this animal was about 1/3 as large as the barking Squirel. But fiew resident birds or water fowls which I have Seen as yet at 6 miles passed an old hunting camp of Menitarrees on the S. S. 21/2 miles higher passed the mouth of Miry Creek on the S. S. passed a hunting Camp of Minetarees on the S. S. waiting the return of the Antilope, Saw Great numbers of Gees feedin in the Praries on the young grass, I saw flowers in the praries to day, juniper grows on the Sides of the hills, & runs on the ground all the hills have more or Less indefferent Coal in Stratias at different bites from the waters edge to 80 feet. those Stratias from 1 inch to 5 feet thick. we Campd. on the S. S. above some rocks makeing out in the river in a butifull ellivated plain.
9th of April, Tuesday, 1805. Set out early this morning with a gentle breeze coming from the southeast. During breakfast, the Indian decided to return to his nation. Today, I spotted a musketor and saw many brant flying up the river. The maple and elm trees have started to bud, and cottonwood and arrowwood are beginning to show signs of budding. I encountered an animal in the prairie that resembled a prairie dog or barking squirrel and burrowed in the same manner; this animal was about a third the size of a barking squirrel. However, I have seen very few resident birds or waterfowl so far. After six miles, we passed an old hunting camp of Minatareese on the south side. Two and a half miles farther, we passed the mouth of Miry Creek on the south side and another hunting camp of Minatareese on the same side, waiting for the return of the antelope. I saw great numbers of geese feeding in the prairies on the young grass, and I noticed flowers blooming today. Juniper grows on the sides of the hills and spreads along the ground. All the hills have varying amounts of low-quality coal in layers at different depths from the water's edge to 80 feet, with these layers ranging from 1 inch to 5 feet thick. We set up camp on the south side above some rocks that jut out into the river, on a beautiful elevated plain.
[Lewis, April 10, 1805]
Wednesday April 10th 1805. Set out at an early hour this morning at the distance of three miles passed some Minetares who had assembled themselves on the Lard shore to take a view of our little fleet. Capt Clark walked on shore today, for several hours, when he returned he informed me that he had seen a gang of Antelopes in the plains but was unable to get a shoot at them he also saw some geese and swan. the geese are now feeding in considerable numbers on the young grass which has sprung up in the bottom prariesthe Musquetoes were very troublesome to us today. The country on both sides of the missouri from the tops of the river hills, is one continued level fertile plain as far as the eye can reach, in which there is not even a solitary tree or shrub to be seen except such as from their moist situations or the steep declivities of hills are sheltered from the ravages of the fire. at the distance of 12 miles from our encampment of last night we arrived at the lower point of a bluff on the Lard side; about 11/2 miles down this bluff from this point, the bluff is now on fire and throws out considerable quantities of smoke which has a strong sulphurious smell. the appearance of the coal in the blufs continues as yesterday. at 1 P.M. we overtook three french hunters who had set out a few days before us with a view of traping beaver; they had taken 12 since they left Fort Mandan. these people avail themselves of the protection which our numbers will enable us to give them against the Assinniboins who sometimes hunt on the Missouri and intend ascending with us as far as the mouth of the Yellow stone river and continue there hunt up that river. this is the first essay of a beaver hunter of any discription on this river. the beaver these people have already taken is by far the best I have ever seen. the river bottoms we have passed to-day are wider and possess more timber than usualthe courant of the Missouri is but moderate, at least not greater than that of the Ohio in high tide; it's banks are falling in but little; the navigation is therefore comparitively with it's lower portion easy and safe.—we encamped this evening on a willow point, Stard. side just above a remarkable bend in the river to the S. W. which we called the little bason.-
Wednesday, April 10th, 1805. We set out early this morning, and after traveling three miles, we passed some Minetares who had gathered on the shore to watch our small fleet. Capt. Clark went ashore today for several hours, and when he returned, he told me he had spotted a group of antelope in the plains but couldn’t get a shot at them. He also saw some geese and swans. The geese are now feeding in large numbers on the young grass that has grown up in the bottom prairies. The mosquitoes were very bothersome today. The land on both sides of the Missouri from the tops of the river hills is a long, flat, fertile plain as far as we can see, with not a single tree or shrub in sight, except for those that are protected from fire due to their moist locations or steep hillsides. About 12 miles from our last night’s camp, we reached the lower end of a bluff on the left side; about 1.5 miles down this bluff, there’s a fire that is producing a lot of smoke with a strong sulfur smell. The appearance of coal in the bluffs remains as it was yesterday. At 1 P.M., we caught up with three French hunters who had set out a few days before us to trap beaver; they had caught 12 since leaving Fort Mandan. These folks rely on the protection our numbers provide against the Assinniboins, who sometimes hunt along the Missouri, and intend to travel with us as far as the mouth of the Yellowstone River to continue their hunt up that river. This is the first attempt by beaver hunters of any kind on this river. The beaver these people have caught so far is by far the best I’ve ever seen. The river bottoms we passed today are wider and have more timber than usual. The current of the Missouri is moderate, at least not stronger than that of the Ohio in high tide; its banks are eroding very little; therefore, navigation is comparatively easy and safe in this section. We set up camp this evening on a willow point on the right side, just above a notable bend in the river to the southwest, which we named the Little Bason.
[Clark, April 10, 1805]
10th of April Wednesday 1805 Set out verry early. the morning cool and no wind proceeded on passed a camp of Inds. on the L. S. this day proved to be verry worm, the Misquetors troublesom. I Saw Several Antilope on the S. S. also gees & Swan, we over took 3 french men Trappers The countrey to day as usial except that the points of Timber is larger than below, the Coal Continue to day, one man Saw a hill on fire at no great distance from the river, we camped on the S. S. just above a remarkable bend in the river to the S W, which we call the little bacon.
10th of April, Wednesday, 1805. We set out very early. The morning was cool with no wind. We moved on and passed a camp of Indians on the left side. This day turned out to be very warm, and the mosquitoes were bothersome. I saw several antelope on the south side, as well as geese and swans. We caught up with three French trappers. The landscape today was the same as usual, except that the trees were larger than those downstream. The coal was still present today. One man spotted a hill on fire at a short distance from the river. We camped on the south side, just above a notable bend in the river to the southwest, which we call the Little Bacon.
[Lewis, April 11, 1805]
Thursday April 11th Set out at an early hour; I proceeded with the party and Capt Clark with George Drewyer walked on shore in order to procure some fresh meat if possible. we proceeded on abot five miles, and halted for breakfast, when Capt Clark and Drewyer joined us; the latter had killed, and brought with him a deer which was at this moment excepable as we had had no fresh meat for several days. the country from fort Mandan to this place is so constantly hunted by the Minetaries that there is but little game we halted at two P.M. and made a comfortable dinner on a venison stake and beavers tales with the bisquit which got wet on the 8th inst. by the accidant of the canoe filling with water before mentioned. the powder which got wet by the same accedent, and which we had spread to dry on the baggage of the large perogue, was now examined and put up; it appears to be almost restored, and our loss is therefore not so great as we had at first apprehended.—the country much the same as yesterday. on the sides of the hills and even the banks of the rivers and sandbars, there is a white substance that appears in considerable quantities on the surface of the earth, which tastes like a mixture of common salt and glauber salts. many of the springs which flow from the base of the river hills are so strongly impregnated with this substance that the water is extreemly unpleasant to the taste and has a purgative effect.—saw some large white cranes pass up the river- these are the largest bird of that genus common to the country through which the Missouri and Mississippi pass. they are perfectly white except the large feathers of the two first joints of the wing which are black. we encamped this evening on the Stard. shore just above the point of woodland which formed to extremity of the last course of this day. there is a high bluff opposite to us, under which we saw some Indians, but the river is here so wide that we could not speake to them; suppose them to be a hunting party of Minetares.—we killed two gees today.
Thursday, April 11th Set out early in the morning; I moved with the group, and Captain Clark with George Drewyer walked along the shore to try to get some fresh meat if possible. We traveled about five miles and stopped for breakfast when Captain Clark and Drewyer joined us; Drewyer had killed a deer, which was perfect because we hadn't had fresh meat for several days. The area from Fort Mandan to this spot is so heavily hunted by the Minetaries that there’s very little game left. We paused at 2 PM and had a nice dinner of venison steak and beaver tails with the biscuits that got wet on the 8th because of the canoe filling with water, as I mentioned before. The powder that also got wet in the same incident and was laid out to dry on the baggage of the larger canoe was checked and repackaged; it seems to be nearly restored, so our loss isn't as bad as we initially feared. The landscape is much the same as yesterday. On the hillsides and even along the riverbanks and sandbars, there's a white substance that appears in significant amounts on the ground, tasting like a mix of regular salt and Glauber salts. Many of the springs flowing from the river hills are heavily laced with this substance, making the water extremely unpleasant to taste and acting as a laxative. We saw some large white cranes flying up the river—these are the biggest birds of that kind found in the areas where the Missouri and Mississippi rivers flow. They are completely white except for the large feathers of the first two joints of their wings, which are black. We camped this evening on the starboard shore just above the point of woodland that marked the end of our last segment for the day. There is a high bluff opposite us, under which we spotted some Indians, but the river is so wide here that we couldn’t speak to them; we assume they are a hunting party of Minetaries. We killed two geese today.
[Clark, April 11, 1805]
11th of April Thursday 1805 Set out verry early I walked on Shore, Saw fresh bear tracks, one deer & 2 beaver killed this morning in the after part of the day killed two gees; Saw great numbers of Gees Brant & Mallard Some White Cranes Swan & guls, the plains begin to have a green appearance, the hills on either side are from 5 to 7 miles asunder and in maney places have been burnt, appearing at a distance of a redish brown choler, containing Pumic Stone & lava, Some of which rolin down to the base of those hills—In maney of those hills forming bluffs to the river we procieve Several Stratums of bituminious Substance which resembles Coal; thong Some of the pieces appear to be excellent Coal it resists the fire for Some time, and consumes without emiting much flaim.
11th of April, Thursday, 1805 Set out very early. I walked on shore and saw fresh bear tracks, one deer, and two beavers killed this morning. Later in the day, I killed two geese and saw a lot of geese, including Brant and Mallard. I also spotted some white cranes, swans, and gulls. The plains are starting to look green, and the hills on either side are about 5 to 7 miles apart. In many places, they’ve been burned, giving them a reddish-brown color due to pumice stone and lava, some of which rolls down to the base of those hills. On many of these hills, which form bluffs along the river, we notice several layers of a bituminous substance that looks like coal. Although some pieces appear to be good coal, they resist fire for a while and burn without producing much flame.
The plains are high and rich Some of them are Sandy Containing Small pebble, and on Some of the hill Sides large Stones are to be Seen—In the evening late we observed a party of Me ne tar ras on the L. S. with horses and dogs loaded going down, those are a part of the Menetarras who camped a little above this with the Ossinniboins at the mouth of the little Missouri all the latter part of the winter we Camped on the S. S. below a falling in bank. the river raise a little.
The plains are elevated and fertile. Some areas are sandy with small pebbles, and on some of the hillsides, you can see large rocks. Late in the evening, we spotted a group of Menetarras on the left side with horses and dogs carrying loads as they moved down. These are part of the Menetarras who camped a bit upstream with the Ossinniboins at the mouth of the Little Missouri. We spent most of the winter camping on the right side below a collapsing bank. The river rose slightly.
[Lewis, April 12, 1805]
Friday April the 12th 1805. Set out at an early hour. our peroge and the Canoes passed over to the Lard side in order to avoid a bank which was rappidly falling in on the Stard. the red perogue contrary to my expectation or wish passed under this bank by means of her toe line where I expected to have seen her carried under every instant. I did not discover that she was about to make this attempt untill it was too late for the men to reembark, and retreating is more dangerous than proceeding in such cases; they therefore continued their passage up this bank, and much to my satisfaction arrived safe above it. this cost me some moments of uneasiness, her cargo was of much importance to us in our present advanced situation—We proceeded on six miles and came too on the lower side of the entrance of the little Missouri on the Lard shore in a fine plain where we determined to spend the day for the purpose of celestial observation. we sent out 10 hunters to procure some fresh meat. at this place made the following observations.-
Friday, April 12, 1805. We set out early. Our perogue and the canoes moved over to the left side to avoid a bank that was quickly eroding on the right. The red perogue, against my expectations and wishes, drifted under this bank using her towline, where I thought she would be pulled under at any moment. I didn’t realize she was about to make this move until it was too late for the men to get back on board, and retreating is more dangerous than continuing in situations like this; so they kept going along this bank and, to my relief, made it past safely. This caused me some moments of worry, as her cargo was very important to us in our current advanced position. We traveled six miles and stopped on the lower side of the small Missouri River on the left shore, in a lovely plain where we decided to spend the day for celestial observations. We sent out ten hunters to gather some fresh meat. At this location, we made the following observations.-
The night proved so cloudy that I could make no further observations. George Drewyer shot a Beaver this morning, which we found swiming in the river a small distance below the entrance of the little Missouri. the beaver being seen in the day, is a proof that they have been but little hunted, as they always keep themselves closly concealed during the day where they are so.—found a great quantity of small onions in the plain where we encamped; had some of them collected and cooked, found them agreeable. the bulb grows single, is of an oval form, white, and about the size of a small bullet; the leaf resembles that of the shive, and the hunters returned this eying with one deer only. the country about the mouth of this river had been recently hunted by the Minetares, and the little game which they had not killed and frightened away, was so extreemly shy that the hunters could not get in shoot of them.
The night was so cloudy that I couldn't make any more observations. George Drewyer shot a beaver this morning, which we found swimming in the river just below the mouth of the little Missouri. The fact that we saw the beaver during the day shows that they haven't been hunted much, as they usually stay well-hidden during that time. We found a lot of small onions in the plain where we set up camp; we had some picked and cooked, and they were quite tasty. The bulb grows singularly, is oval-shaped, white, and about the size of a small bullet; the leaf looks similar to that of a chive. The hunters returned this evening with just one deer. The area around the mouth of this river had recently been hunted by the Minetares, and the little game they hadn’t killed or scared away was extremely wary, making it impossible for the hunters to get a shot at them.
The little Missouri disembogues on the S. side of the Missouri 1693 miles from the confluence of the latter with the Mississippi. it is 134 yards wide at it's mouth, and sets in with a bould current but it's greatest debth is not more than 21/2 feet. it's navigation is extreemly difficult, owing to it's rapidity, shoals and sand bars. it may however be navigated with small canoes a considerable distance. this river passes through the Northern extremity of the black hills where it is very narrow and rapid and it's banks high an perpendicular. it takes it's rise in a broken country West of the Black hills with the waters of the yellow stone river, and a considerable distance S. W. of the point at which it passes the black hills. the country through which it passes is generally broken and the highlands possess but little timber. there is some timber in it's bottom lands, which consists of Cottonwood red Elm, with a small proportion of small Ash and box alder. the under brush is willow, red wood, (sometimes called red or swamp willow-) the red burry, and Choke cherry the country is extreamly broken about the mouth of this river, and as far up on both sides, as we could observe it from the tops of some elivated hills, which stand betwen these two rivers, about 3 miles from their junction. the soil appears fertile and deep, it consists generally of a dark rich loam intermixed with a small proportion of fine sand. this river in it's course passed near the N. W. side of the turtle mountain, which is said to be no more than 4 or 5 leagues distant from it's entrance in a straight direction, a little to the S. of West.—this mountain and the knife river have therefore been laid down too far S. W. the colour of the water, the bed of the river, and it's appearance in every respect, resembles the Missouri; I am therefore induced to believe that the texture of the soil of the country in which it takes it's rise, and that through which it passes, is similar to the country through which the Missouri passes after leaving the woody country, or such as we are now in.—on the side of a hill not distant from our camp I found some of the dwarf cedar of which I preserved a specimen (See No. 2). this plant spreads it's limbs alonge the surface of the earth, where they are sometimes covered, and always put forth a number of roots on the under side, while on the upper there are a great number of small shoots which with their leaves seldom rise higher than 6 or eight inches. they grow so close as perfectly to conceal the eath. it is an evergreen; the leaf is much more delicate than the common Cedar, and it's taste and smell the same. I have often thought that this plant would make very handsome edgings to the borders and walks of a garden; it is quite as handsom as box, and would be much more easily propegated.—the appearance of the glauber salts and Carbonated wood still continue.
The small Missouri River flows into the South side of the Missouri, 1693 miles from where the latter meets the Mississippi. It's 134 yards wide at its mouth, with a strong current, but its greatest depth is only 2.5 feet. Navigation is extremely challenging due to its speed, shallows, and sandbars. However, it can be navigated by small canoes for quite a distance. This river runs through the northern edge of the Black Hills, where it is very narrow and fast, with steep, vertical banks. It originates in a rugged area west of the Black Hills, close to the Yellowstone River, quite a distance southwest of where it traverses the Black Hills. The landscape it runs through is generally rugged, and the highlands have little timber. Some timber can be found in its floodplains, including cottonwood, red elm, and a small amount of ash and box alder. The underbrush consists of willow, redwood (sometimes called red or swamp willow), red berry, and chokecherry. The area around the mouth of this river is extremely rugged, and we could see far up both sides from the tops of some elevated hills about three miles from their junction. The soil looks fertile and deep, primarily a dark, rich loam mixed with some fine sand. Along its route, this river passes near the northwest side of Turtle Mountain, which is said to be only about 4 or 5 leagues away from its entrance in a straight line, slightly to the southwest. Therefore, this mountain and the Knife River have been placed too far southwest. The color of the water, the riverbed, and its appearance in every way resemble the Missouri; I believe that the soil texture in its drainage area and along its course is similar to the land the Missouri flows through after leaving the wooded region, or as we are currently in. On the side of a hill not far from our camp, I found some dwarf cedar, of which I preserved a specimen (See No. 2). This plant spreads its limbs along the ground, where they are sometimes covered, and always sends out roots underneath, while on top, numerous small shoots with their leaves usually stay below six or eight inches in height. They grow so closely together that they completely hide the ground. It's an evergreen; the leaves are much more delicate than those of the common cedar, sharing the same taste and smell. I have often thought this plant would make attractive borders for garden paths and beds; it’s just as pretty as boxwood and would be much easier to propagate. The presence of Glauber's salts and carbonated wood continues.
[Clark, April 12, 1805]
12th April Friday 1805 a fine morning Set out verry early, the murcery Stood 56° above 0. proceeded on to the mouth of the Little Missouri river and formed a Camp in a butifull elivated plain on the lower Side for the purpose of takeing Some observations to fix the Latitude & Longitude of this river. this river falls in on the L. Side and is 134 yards wide and 2 feet 6 Inches deep at the mouth, it takes its rise in the N W extremity of the black mountains, and through a broken countrey in its whole course washing the N W base of the Turtle Mountain which is Situated about 6 Leagues S W of its mouth, one of our men Baptiest who came down this river in a canoe informs me that it is not navagable, he was 45 days descending.
12th April, Friday, 1805: It was a nice morning. We set out very early; the thermometer read 56° above zero. We traveled to the mouth of the Little Missouri River and set up camp on a beautiful elevated plain on the lower side to take some observations to determine the latitude and longitude of this river. This river flows in from the left side and is 134 yards wide and 2 feet 6 inches deep at the mouth. It originates in the northwest part of the Black Mountains and moves through rough terrain along its entire course, washing the northwest base of Turtle Mountain, which is located about 6 leagues southwest of its mouth. One of our men, Baptiste, who came down this river in a canoe, told me that it is not navigable; it took him 45 days to descend.
One of our men Shot a beaver Swimming below the mouth of this river.
I walked out on the lower Side of this river and found the countrey hilley the Soil composed of black mole & a Small perportion of Sand containing great quantity of Small peable Some limestone, black flint, & Sand Stone I killed a Hare Changeing its Colour Some parts retaining its long white fur & other parts assumeing the Short grey, I Saw the Magpie in pars, flocks of Grouse, the old field lark & Crows, & observed the leaf of the wild Chery half grown, many flowers are to be seen in the plains, remains of Minetarra & Ossinneboin hunting Camps are to be Seen on each Side of the two Missouris
I walked out on the lower side of this river and found the land hilly. The soil was made up of black mold and a small amount of sand, containing a large quantity of small pebbles, some limestone, black flint, and sandstone. I killed a hare changing its color, with some parts retaining its long white fur and other parts taking on a short gray. I saw magpies in pairs, flocks of grouse, the old field lark, and crows, and observed the leaves of the wild cherry half grown. Many flowers could be seen in the plains, and remnants of Minetarra and Ossinneboin hunting camps were visible on each side of the two Missouri rivers.
The wind blew verry hard from the S. all the after part of the day, at 3 oClock P M. it became violent & flowey accompanied with thunder and a little rain. We examined our canoes &c found Several mice which had already commenced cutting our bags of corn & parched meal, the water of the little Missouri is of the Same texture Colour & quallity of that of the Big Missouri the after part of the day so Cloudy that we lost the evening observation.
The wind blew very hard from the south all afternoon. At 3 PM, it became violent and gusty, accompanied by thunder and a bit of rain. We checked our canoes and found several mice that had already started chewing through our bags of corn and parched meal. The water of the Little Missouri is the same texture, color, and quality as that of the Big Missouri. The afternoon was so cloudy that we lost the evening observation.
[Lewis, April 13, 1805]
Saturday April 13th Being disappointed in my observations of yesterday for Longitude, I was unwilling to remain at the entrance of the river another day for that purpose, and therefore determined to set out early this morning; which we did accordingly; the wind was in our favour after 9 A.M. and continued favourable untill three 3 P.M. we therefore hoisted both the sails in the White Perogue, consisting of a small squar sail, and spritsail, which carried her at a pretty good gate, untill about 2 in the afternoon when a suddon squall of wind struck us and turned the perogue so much on the side as to allarm Sharbono who was steering at the time, in this state of alarm he threw the perogue with her side to the wind, when the spritsail gibing was as near overseting the perogue as it was possible to have missed. the wind however abating for an instant I ordered Drewyer to the helm and the sails to be taken in, which was instant executed and the perogue being steered before the wind was agin placed in a state of security. this accedent was very near costing us dearly. beleiving this vessell to be the most steady and safe, we had embarked on board of it our instruments, Papers, medicine and the most valuable part of the merchandize which we had still in reserve as presents for the Indians. we had also embarked on board ourselves, with three men who could not swim and the squaw with the young child, all of whom, had the perogue overset, would most probably have perished, as the waves were high, and the perogue upwards of 200 yards from the nearest shore; however we fortunately escaped and pursued our journey under the square sail, which shortly after the accident I directed to be again hoisted. our party caught three beaver last evening; and the French hunters 7. as there was much appearance of beaver just above the entrance of the little Missouri these hunters concluded to remain some days; we therefore left them without the expectation of seeing them again.—just above the entrance of the Little Missouri the great Missouri is upwards of a mile in width, tho immediately at the entrance of the former it is not more than 200 yards wide and so shallow that the canoes passed it with seting poles. at the distance of nine miles passed the mouth of a creek on the Stard. side which we called onion creek from the quantity of wild onions which grow in the plains on it's borders. Capt. Clark who was on shore informed me that this creek was 16 yards wide a mile & a half above it's entrance, discharges more water than creeks of it's size usually do in this open country, and that there was not a stick of timber of any discription to be seen on it's borders, or the level plain country through which it passes. at the distance of 10 miles further we passed the mouth of a large creek; discharging itself in the center of a deep bend. of this creek and the neighbouring country, Capt Clark who was on shore gave me the following discription "This creek I took to be a small river from it's size, and the quantity of water which it discharged. I ascended it 11/2 miles, and found it the discharge of a pond or small lake, which had the appearance of having formerly been the bed of the Missouri. several small streems discharge themselves into this lake. the country on both sides consists of beautifull level and elivated plains; asscending as they recede from the Missouri; there were a great number of Swan and gees in this lake and near it's borders I saw the remains of 43 temperary Indian lodges, which I presume were those of the Assinniboins who are now in the neighbourhood of the British establishments on the Assinniboin river-" This lake and it's discharge we call Boos Egg from the circumstance of Capt Clark shooting a goose while on her nest in the top of a lofty cotton wood tree, from which we afterwards took one egg. the wild gees frequently build their nests in this manner, at least we have already found several in trees, nor have we as yet seen any on the ground, or sand bars where I had supposed from previous information that they most commonly deposited their eggs.- saw some Bufhaloe and Elk at a distance today but killed none of them. we found a number of carcases of the Buffaloe lying along shore, which had been drowned by falling through the ice in winter and lodged on shore by the high water when the river broke up about the first of this month. we saw also many tracks of the white bear of enormous size, along the river shore and about the carcases of the Buffaloe, on which I presume they feed. we have not as yet seen one of these anamals, tho their tracks are so abundant and recent. the men as well as ourselves are anxious to meet with some of these bear. the Indians give a very formidable account of the strengh and ferocity of this anamal, which they never dare to attack but in parties of six eight or ten persons; and are even then frequently defeated with the loss of one or more of their party. the savages attack this anamal with their bows and arrows and the indifferent guns with which the traders furnish them, with these they shoot with such uncertainty and at so short a distance, that they frequently mis their aim & fall a sacrefice to the bear. two Minetaries were killed during the last winter in an attack on a white bear. this anamall is said more frequently to attack a man on meeting with him, than to flee from him. When the Indians are about to go in quest of the white bear, previous to their departure, they paint themselves and perform all those superstitious rights commonly observed when they are about to make war uppon a neighbouring nation. Oserved more bald eagles on this part of the Missouri than we have previously seen saw the small hawk, frequently called the sparrow hawk, which is common to most parts of the U States. great quantities of gees are seen feeding in the praries. saw a large flock of white brant or gees with black wings pass up the river; there were a number of gray brant with them; from their flight I presume they proceed much further still to the N. W.—we have never been enabled yet to shoot one of these birds, and cannot therefore determine whether the gray brant found with the white are their brude of the last year or whether they are the same with the grey brant common to the Mississippi and lower part of the Missouri.—we killed 2 Antelopes today which we found swiming from the S. to the N. side of the river; they were very poor.—We encamped this evening on the Stard. shore in a beautiful) plain, elivated about 30 feet above the river.
Saturday, April 13th. After being disappointed in my observations for Longitude yesterday, I didn't want to stay at the river's entrance another day for that purpose, so I decided to set out early this morning; and we did just that. The wind was in our favor after 9 A.M. and remained so until around 3 P.M. We hoisted both sails on the White Perogue, which had a small square sail and a spritsail, allowing her to move quite well until about 2 in the afternoon when a sudden squall of wind hit us, causing the perogue to lean so much that it alarmed Sharbono, who was steering at the time. In his panic, he turned the perogue side on to the wind, and when the spritsail gusted, it nearly capsized the perogue. Luckily, the wind lessened for a moment, and I instructed Drewyer to take the helm while the sails were taken in. This was done immediately, and the perogue was steered before the wind, putting us back in a safe position. This incident almost cost us dearly. Believing this vessel to be the most stable and safe, we had taken our instruments, papers, medicine, and the most valuable merchandise we had left as gifts for the Indians aboard. We had also brought along three men who couldn't swim and a woman with a young child, all of whom would likely have drowned had the perogue capsized, as the waves were high and the perogue was over 200 yards from the nearest shore. Fortunately, we escaped and continued our journey with the square sail, which I had directed to be hoisted again shortly after the incident. Our group caught three beavers last night, while the French hunters caught seven. Since there were many signs of beavers just above the entrance of the Little Missouri, these hunters decided to stay for a few days, so we left them behind without expecting to see them again. Just above the Little Missouri entrance, the great Missouri is over a mile wide, although right at the entrance of the former, it isn't more than 200 yards wide and is so shallow that canoes passed it using setting poles. Nine miles later, we passed the mouth of a creek on the starboard side, which we named Onion Creek due to the abundance of wild onions growing along its banks. Captain Clark, who was on shore, informed me that this creek was 16 yards wide a mile and a half above its entrance, discharging more water than creeks of its size usually do in this open area, and that there were no trees of any kind to be seen along its banks or in the flat terrain through which it flows. Ten miles further on, we passed the mouth of a large creek discharging into the center of a deep bend. Of this creek and the surrounding area, Captain Clark, who was on shore, described it as follows: "I thought this creek was a small river because of its size and the amount of water it discharged. I traveled 1.5 miles up it and found it the outflow of a pond or small lake, which looked like it had once been the bed of the Missouri. Several small streams flow into this lake. The land on both sides consists of beautiful, flat, elevated plains that rise as they move away from the Missouri; there were a lot of swans and geese in this lake, and near its shores, I saw the remains of 43 temporary Indian lodges, which I assume belonged to the Assinniboins, who are now near the British settlements on the Assinniboin River." We named this lake and its outflow Boos Egg because Captain Clark shot a goose while it was nesting in the top of a tall cottonwood tree, from which we later took one egg. Wild geese often build their nests this way; at least we have already found several in trees, and we have yet to see any on the ground or sandbars, where I had previously thought they usually laid their eggs. Today, we spotted some buffalo and elk in the distance but didn't kill any. We found several buffalo carcasses along the shore, which had drowned after falling through the ice in winter and had washed ashore when the river broke up around the beginning of this month. We also saw many enormous tracks of white bears along the riverbank and around the buffalo carcasses, which I presume they feed on. Although we haven't seen one of these animals yet, their tracks are numerous and fresh. Both the men and we are eager to encounter one of these bears. The Indians provide a very intimidating account of the strength and ferocity of this animal, stating they never dare to attack it unless they have six, eight, or ten people with them; even then, they are often defeated and lose one or more of their group. The savages confront this animal with their bows and arrows and the poor-quality guns provided by traders; they shoot with such inaccuracy and from such close range that they frequently miss their targets and become victims of the bear. Two Minetaries were killed last winter during an attack on a white bear. This animal is said to be more likely to attack a person it encounters than to run away from them. When the Indians prepare to go hunting for the white bear, they paint themselves and observe all the superstitious rituals they usually perform before going to war against another tribe. I observed more bald eagles in this part of the Missouri than we have seen before, and I saw the small hawk, often called the sparrow hawk, which is common in most parts of the U.S. Great numbers of geese were seen feeding in the prairies. I spotted a large flock of white brant or geese with black wings flying up the river; there were several gray brant with them; by their flight pattern, I assume they continue much further to the northwest. We have yet to succeed in shooting one of these birds, so we cannot determine whether the gray brant found with the white ones are last year's brood or whether they are the same as the gray brant found in the Mississippi and lower Missouri. We killed two antelopes today that we found swimming from the south to the north side of the river; they were quite lean. We set up camp this evening on the starboard shore in a beautiful, elevated plain about 30 feet above the river.
[Clark, April 13, 1805]
13th of April Satturday 1805 Set out this morning at 6 oClock, the Missouri above the mouth of Little Missouri widens to nearly a mile containing a number of Sand bars this width &c. of the River Continues Generally as high as the Rochejhone River.
13th of April Saturday 1805 Set out this morning at 6 o'clock, the Missouri above the mouth of Little Missouri widens to nearly a mile, containing a number of sandbars. This width of the river continues generally as high as the Rochejhone River.
Cought 3 beaver this morning, at 9 miles passd. the mouth of a Creek on the S. S. on the banks of which there is an imence quantity of wild onions or garlick, I was up this Creek 1/2 a m. and could not See one Stick of timber of any kind on its borders, this creek is 16 yds wide 1/2 a mile up it and discharges more water than is common for Creeks of its Size. at about 10 miles higher we pass a Creek about 30 yards wide in a deep bend to the N W. This creek I took to be a Small river from its Size & the quantity of water which it discharged, I ascended it 11/2 mes and found it the discharge of a pond or Small Lake which has appearance of haveing been once the bead of the river, Some Small Streams discharge themselves into this Lake. the Countery on both Side is butifull elevated plains assending in Some parts to a great distance near the aforesaid Lake (which we call Goose egg L from a Circumstance of my Shooting a goose on her neast on Some Sticks in the top of a high Cotton wood tree in which there was one egg) We Saw 8 buffalow at a distance, We also Saw Several herds of Elk at a distance which were verry wild, I Saw near the Lake the remains of 43 lodges, which has latterly been abandond I Suppose them to have been Ossinniboins and now near the british establishments on the Ossinniboin River tradeing. we camped on the S. S. in a butifull Plain. I observe more bald Eagles on this part of the Missouri than usial also a Small Hawk Killed 2 Antelopes in the river to day emence numbers of Geese to be seen pared &c. a Gange of brant pass one half of the gange white with black wings or the large feathers of the 1 s & 2d joint the remds. of the comn. color. a voice much like that of a goos & finer &c.
Caught 3 beavers this morning, 9 miles past the mouth of a creek on the south side, where there’s a huge amount of wild onions or garlic. I went up this creek for half a mile and couldn't see any timber of any kind along its banks. This creek is 16 yards wide half a mile up and carries more water than is typical for creeks of its size. About 10 miles further, we passed a creek about 30 yards wide in a deep bend to the northwest. I initially thought this creek was a small river because of its size and the amount of water it was discharging. I went up it for 1.5 miles and discovered it was draining a pond or small lake, which looks like it used to be the bed of the river. Some small streams flow into this lake. The land on both sides is beautiful elevated plains, rising in some areas to a great distance near the lake (which we call Goose Egg Lake because I shot a goose on her nest on some sticks at the top of a tall cottonwood tree where there was one egg). We saw 8 buffalo in the distance and also spotted several herds of very wild elk. Near the lake, I found the remains of 43 lodges, which I assume were occupied by the Ossiniboins and are now abandoned, as they are near British trading establishments on the Ossiniboine River. We camped on the south side in a beautiful plain. I noticed more bald eagles in this part of the Missouri than usual, and a small hawk killed 2 antelopes in the river today. There are huge numbers of geese around, paired up, etc. A flock of brant passed by; half of them were white with black wings or large feathers of the first and second joints, while the rest were the common color. They have a voice similar to that of a goose but finer, etc.
[Lewis, April 14, 1805]
Sunday April 14th 1805. One of the hunters saw an Otter last evening and shot at it, but missed it. a dog came to us this morning, which we supposed to have been lost by the Indians who were recently encamped near the lake that we passed yesterday. the mineral appearances of salts, coal and sulpher, together with birnt hills & pumicestone still continue.—while we remained at the entrance of the little Missouri, we saw several pieces of pumice stone floating down that stream, a considerable quanty of which had lodged against a point of drift wood a little above it's entrance. Capt. Clark walked on shore this morning, and on his return informed me that he had passed through the timbered bottoms on the N. side of the river, and had extended his walk several miles back on the hills; in the bottom lands he had met with several uninhabited Indian lodges built with the boughs of the Elm, and in the plains he met with the remains of two large encampments of a recent date, which from the appearance of some hoops of small kegs, seen near them we concluded that they must have been the camps of the Assinniboins, as no other nation who visit this part of the missouri ever indulge themselves with spirituous liquor. of this article the Assinniboins are pationately fond, and we are informed that it forms their principal inducement to furnish the British establishments on the Assinniboin river with the dryed and pounded meat and grease which they do. they also supply those establishments with a small quantity of fur, consisting principally of the large and small wolves and the small fox skins. these they barter for small kegs of ruin which they generally transport to their camps at a distance from the establishments, where they revel with their friends and relations as long as they possess the means of intoxication, their women and children are equally indulged on those occations and are all seen drunk together. so far is a state of intoxication from being a cause of reproach among them, that with the men, it is a matter of exultation that their skill and industry as hunters has enabled them to get drunk frequently. in their customs, habits, and dispositions these people very much resemble the Siouxs from whom they have descended. The principal inducement with the British fur companies, for continuing their establishments on the Assinniboin river, is the Buffaloe meat and grease they procure from the Assinniboins, and Christanoes, by means of which, they are enabled to supply provision to their engages on their return from rainy Lake to the English river and the Athabaskey country where they winter; without such resource those voyagers would frequently be straitened for provision, as the country through which they pass is but scantily supplyed with game, and the rappidity with which they are compelled to travel in order to reach their winter stations, would leave therm but little leasure to surch for food while on their voyage.
Sunday, April 14, 1805. One of the hunters saw an otter last night and took a shot at it but missed. A dog showed up this morning; we think it got lost from the Indians who were recently camped near the lake we passed yesterday. The mineral signs of salt, coal, and sulfur, along with burned hills and pumice stone, continue. While we stayed at the mouth of the Little Missouri, we saw several pieces of pumice stone floating down the stream, and a significant amount had gathered against a driftwood point just above its entrance. Capt. Clark walked on shore this morning, and upon returning, he told me that he had walked through the wooded areas on the north side of the river and ventured several miles back into the hills. In the bottomlands, he came across several abandoned Indian lodges made from elm branches, and in the plains, he found the remains of two large, recently used encampments. From the appearance of some small keg hoops nearby, we figured they must have been the camps of the Assinniboins, as no other group that visits this part of the Missouri indulges in spirits. The Assinniboins have a strong passion for this drink, and we’ve learned it’s their main motivation for trading dried and ground meat and grease to the British establishments on the Assinniboin River. They also supply these trading posts with a small amount of fur, mainly from large and small wolves and small fox skins, which they exchange for small barrels of rum that they usually take back to their camps away from the trading posts, where they celebrate with friends and family until they run out of alcohol. Their women and children also partake in these occasions, and it's common to see everyone drunk together. Rather than seeing intoxication as shameful, the men take pride in their hunting skills and ability to drink frequently. In their customs, habits, and personalities, these people closely resemble the Sioux, from whom they are descended. The primary reason the British fur companies maintain their operations on the Assinniboin River is the buffalo meat and grease they get from the Assinniboins and Christanoes, which allows them to supply food to their crews returning from Rainy Lake to the English River and the Athabaskaw country where they spend the winter. Without this resource, those travelers would often struggle for food, as the areas they pass through are only sparsely supplied with game, and the speed they need to travel to reach their winter destinations leaves them little time to search for food during their journey.
The Assinniboins have so recently left this neighbourhood, that the game is scarce and very shy. the river continues wide, and not more rapid than the Ohio in an averge state of it's current. the bottoms are wide and low, the moister parts containing some timber; the upland is extreemly broken, chonsisting of high gaulded nobs as far as the eye can reach on ether side, and entirely destitute of timber. on these hills many aromatic herbs are seen; resembling in taste, smel and appearance, the sage, hysop, wormwood, southernwood and two other herbs which are strangers to me; the one resembling the camphor in taste and smell, rising to the hight of 2 or 3 feet; the other about the same size, has a long, narrow, smooth, soft leaf of an agreeable smel and flavor; of this last the Atelope is very fond; they feed on it, and perfume the hair of their foreheads and necks with it by rubing against it. the dwarf cedar and juniper is also found in great abundance on the sides of these hills. where the land is level, it is uniformly fertile consisting of a dark loam intermixed with a proportion of fine sand. it is generally covered with a short grass resembling very much the blue grass.—the miniral appearances still continue; considerable quantities of bitumenous water, about the colour of strong lye trickles down the sides of the hills; this water partakes of the taste of glauber salts and slightly of allumn.—while the party halted to take dinner today Capt Clark killed a buffaloe bull; it was meagre, and we therefore took the marrow bones and a small proportion of the meat only. near the place we dined on the Lard. side, there was a large village of burrowing squirrels. I have remarked that these anamals generally celect a South Easterly exposure for their residence, tho they are sometimes found in the level plains.—passed an Island, above which two small creeks fall in on Lard side; the upper creek largest, which we called Sharbono's Creek after our interpreter who encamped several weeks on it with a hunting party of Indians. this was the highest point to which any whiteman had ever ascended; except two Frenchmen who having lost their way had straggled a few miles further, tho to what place precisely I could not learn.—I walked on shore above this creek and killed an Elk, which was so poor that it was unfit for uce; I therefore left it, and joined the party at their encampment on the Stard shore a little after dark. on my arrival Capt Clark informed me that he had seen two white bear pass over the hills shortly after I fired, and that they appeared to run nearly from the place where I shot. the lard. shore on which I walked was very broken, and the hills in many places had the appearance of having sliped down in masses of several acres of land in surface.—we saw many gees feeding on the tender grass in the praries and several of their nests in the trees; we have not in a single instance found the nest of this bird on or near the ground. we saw a number of Magpies their nests and eggs. their nests are built in trees and composed of small sticks leaves and grass, open at top, and much in the stile of the large blackbird comm to the U States. the egg is of a bluish brown colour, freckled with redish brown spots. one of the party killed a large hooting owl. I observed no difference between this burd and those of the same family common to the U States, except that this appeared to be more booted and more thickly clad with feathers.-
The Assinniboins have just left this area, so the game is scarce and very skittish. The river remains wide and flows at a speed similar to the Ohio on average. The floodplains are broad and low, with some wet areas containing a bit of timber; the uplands are extremely rugged, filled with high, rounded hills as far as the eye can see on either side, and completely lacking in timber. Many aromatic herbs grow on these hills, tasting, smelling, and looking similar to sage, hyssop, wormwood, southernwood, and two other herbs that I'm not familiar with; one tastes and smells like camphor and grows to a height of 2 or 3 feet; the other, about the same size, has long, narrow, smooth, soft leaves with a pleasant smell and flavor. The antelope loves this last herb; they eat it and fragrance their foreheads and necks by rubbing against it. Dwarf cedar and juniper also grow abundantly on these hills. Where the land is flat, it is consistently fertile, made up of dark loam mixed with some fine sand. It is generally covered with short grass that closely resembles bluegrass. The mineral features continue; significant amounts of bituminous water, about the color of strong lye, trickle down the hillsides. This water has a taste like Glauber's salts and a hint of alum. While the group paused for lunch today, Captain Clark shot a buffalo bull; it was lean, so we only took the marrow bones and a small portion of the meat. Near where we had lunch on the left side, there was a large village of burrowing squirrels. I've noticed that these animals usually prefer a southeast exposure for their homes, although they are sometimes found in the flat plains. We passed an island, above which two small creeks flow into the left side; the upper creek is the largest, which we named Sharbono's Creek after our interpreter who camped there for several weeks with a hunting party of Indians. This was the furthest point any white man had ever reached, except for two Frenchmen who got lost and wandered a few miles further, though I couldn't find out exactly where they ended up. I walked ashore above this creek and shot an elk, which was so poor that it was not worth using; I left it and rejoined the group at their camp on the right side shortly after dark. When I arrived, Captain Clark told me he had seen two white bears cross the hills just after I fired, apparently running nearly from the spot where I shot. The left shore where I walked was very uneven, and in many places the hills looked like they had slipped down in large chunks of land. We saw many geese feeding on the tender grass in the prairies and several of their nests in the trees; we have not found a single nest of this bird on or near the ground. We also spotted a number of magpies, their nests, and eggs. Their nests are built in trees and made up of small sticks, leaves, and grass, open at the top, similar to the large blackbird common in the United States. The eggs are bluish-brown, speckled with reddish-brown spots. One of the group shot a large hooting owl. I didn't notice any differences between this bird and those of the same family that are common in the United States, except this one seemed to have thicker feathers and more prominent boots.
[Clark, April 14, 1805]
14th of April Sunday 1805. a fine morning, a dog came to us this morning we Suppose him to be left by the Inds. who had their camps near the Lake we passd. yesterday not long Sence, I observed Several Single Lodges built of Stiks of cotten timber in different parts of the bottoms. in my walk of this day which was through the wooded bottoms and on the hills for several miles back from the river on the S. S. I Saw the remains of two Indian incampments with wide beeten tracks leading to them. those were no doubt the Camps of the Ossinnaboin Indians (a Strong evidence is hoops of Small Kegs were found in the incampments) no other nation on the river above the Sioux make use of Spiritious licquer, the Ossinniboins is said to be pasionately fond of Licquer, and is the principal inducement to their putting themselves to the trouble of Catching the fiew wolves and foxes which they furnish, and recive their liquor always in small Kegs. The Ossinniboins make use of the Same kind of Lodges which the Sioux and other Indians on this river make use of—Those lodges or tents are made of a number of dressed buffalow Skins Sowed together with Sinues & deckerated with the tales, & Porcupine quils, when open it forms a half circle with a part about 4 Inches wide projecting about 8 or 9 Inches from the center of the Streight Side for the purpose of attaching it to a pole to it the hight they wish to raise the tent, when they errect this tent four poles of equal length are tied near one end, those poles are elevated and 8 10 or 12 other poles are anexed forming a Circle at the ground and lodging in the forks of the four attached poles, the tents are then raised, by attach the projecting part to a pole and incumpassing the poles with the tent by bringing the two ends together and attached with a Cord, or laied as high as is necessary, leaveing the lower part open for about 4 feet for to pass in & out, and the top is generally left open to admit the Smoke to pass—The Borders of the river has been So much hunted by those Indians who must have left it about 8 or 10 days past and I prosume are now in the neighbourhood of British establishments on the Osinniboin; the game is Scerce and verry wild. The River Continues wide and the current jentle not more rapid than the Current of the Ohio in middle State—The bottoms are wide and low and the moist parts of them Contain Som wood such as cotton Elm & Small ash, willow rose bushes &c. &c. &. next to the hills Great quantity of wild Isoop, the hills are high broken in every direction, and the mineral appearance of Salts Continue to appear in a greater perportion, also Sulpher, Coal & bitumous water in a Smaller quantity, I have observed but five burnt hills, about the little Missouri, and I have not Seen any pumey stone above that River I Saw Buffalow on the L. S. Crossed and dureing the time of dinner killed a Bull, which was pore, we made use of the best of it, I Saw a village of Burrowing dogs on the L. S. passed a Island above which two Small Creeks falls in on the L. S. the upper of which is the largest and we call Shabonas Creek after our interpreter who incamped several weeks on this Creek and is the highest point on the Missouri to which a white man has been previous to this time. Capt. Lewis walked out above this creek and killed an Elk which he found So meager that it was not fit for use, and joined the boat at Dusk at our Camp on the S. S. opposit a high hill Several parts of which had Sliped down. on the Side of those hills we Saw two white bear running from the report of Capt. Lewis Shot, those animals assended those Steep hills with Supprising ease & verlocity. they were too far to discover their prosise Colour & Size—Saw Several gees nests on trees, also the nests & egs of the Magpies, a large grey owl killed, booted & with ears &c.
April 14, 1805, Sunday. It was a nice morning, and a dog came to us. We think it was left behind by the Indians who had their camps near the lake we passed yesterday. Not long ago, I noticed several single huts made of sticks of cottonwood in different parts of the lowlands. During my walk today, which was through the wooded lowlands and on the hills for several miles back from the river on the south side, I saw the remains of two Indian camps with wide beaten paths leading to them. These were probably the camps of the Ossinnaboin Indians (there's strong evidence since hoops of small kegs were found at these camps). No other nation on the river above the Sioux uses alcohol; the Ossinniboins are said to be very fond of liquor, which is the main reason they bother to catch a few wolves and foxes to trade for their liquor, which they always receive in small kegs. The Ossinniboins use the same type of lodges as the Sioux and other Indians on this river. These lodges or tents are made from several dressed buffalo hides sewn together with sinew and decorated with tails and porcupine quills. When opened, it forms a half-circle with a part about 4 inches wide projecting about 8 or 9 inches from the center of the straight side to attach it to a pole at the height they want for the tent. When they set up this tent, four poles of equal length are tied near one end, then elevated, and 8, 10, or 12 other poles are attached, forming a circle at the ground and resting in the forks of the four attached poles. The tents are then raised by attaching the projecting part to a pole and wrapping the tent around the poles by bringing the two ends together and tying them with a cord, leaving the lower part open for about 4 feet for going in and out. The top is generally left open to let the smoke escape. The borders of the river have been heavily hunted by these Indians, who must have left about 8 or 10 days ago and I assume are now near the British establishments on the Osinniboin. The game is scarce and very wild. The river is still wide, and the current is gentle, not faster than the current of the Ohio in the middle states. The lowlands are wide and low, and the wet parts contain some woods like cottonwood, elm, small ash, and willow bushes, etc. Next to the hills, there's a great quantity of wild hyssop. The hills are high and broken in every direction, and the mineral presence of salts continues to show in greater proportion, along with some sulfur, coal, and bituminous water in smaller quantities. I’ve observed only five burned hills around the little Missouri, and I haven’t seen any pumice stone above that river. I saw buffalo on the left side and, during lunchtime, killed a bull which was lean; we made use of the best parts. I saw a village of burrowing dogs on the left side and passed an island above where two small creeks flow into the left side. The upper one is the largest, and we named it Shabonas Creek after our interpreter who camped here for several weeks and is the highest point on the Missouri that a white man has reached before this. Capt. Lewis walked out above this creek and killed an elk, which he found so lean that it wasn't fit for use, and he joined the boat at dusk at our camp on the south side, opposite a high hill, parts of which had slipped down. On the side of those hills, we saw two white bears running from the sound of Capt. Lewis's shot; those animals climbed those steep hills with surprising ease and speed. They were too far away to see their exact color and size. I also saw several goose nests in trees, along with the nests and eggs of the magpies, and a large gray owl was killed, booted and with ears, etc.
[Lewis, April 15, 1805]
Monday April 15th 1805. Set out at an early hour this morning. I walked on shore, and Capt. Clark continued with the party it being an invariable rule with us not to be both absent from our vessels at the same time. I passed through the bottoms of the river on the Stard. side. they were partially covered with timber & were extensive, level and beatifull. in my walk which was about 6 miles I passed a small rivulet of clear water making down from the hills, which on tasting, I discovered to be in a small degree brackish. it possessed less of the glauber salt, or alumn, than those little streams from the hills usually do.—in a little pond of water fromed by this rivulet where it entered the bottom, I heard the frogs crying for the first time this season; their note was the same with that of the small frogs which are common to the lagoons and swamps of the U States.—I saw great quantities of gees feeding in the bottoms, of which I shot one. saw some deer and Elk, but they were remarkably shy. I also met with great numbers of Grouse or prarie hens as they are called by the English traders of the N. W. these birds appeared to be mating; the note of the male is kuck, kuck, kuck, coo, coo, coo. the first part of the note both male and female use when flying. the male also dubbs something like the pheasant, but by no means as loud. after breakfast Capt. Clark walked on the Std. shore, and on his return in the evening gave me the following account of his ramble. "I ascended to the high country, about 9 miles distant from the Missouri. the country consists of beatifull, level and fertile plains, destitute of timber I saw many little dranes, which took their rise in the river hills, from whence as far as I could see they run to the N. E." these streams we suppose to be the waters of Mous river a branch of the Assinniboin which the Indians informed us approaches the Missouri very nearly, about this point. "I passed," continued he, "a Creek about 20 yards wide," which falls into the Missouri; the bottoms of this creek are wide level and extreemly fertile, but almost entirely destitute of timber. the water of this creek as well as all those creeks and rivulets which we have passed since we left Fort Mandan was so strongly impregnated with salts and other miniral substances that I was incapable of drinking it. I saw the remains of several camps of the Assinniboins; near one of which, in a small ravene, there was a park which they had formed of timber and brush, for the purpose of taking the Cabrie or Antelope. it was constructed in the following manner. a strong pound was first made of timbers, on one side of which there was a small apparture, sufficiently large to admit an Antelope; from each side of this apparture, a curtain was extended to a considerable distance, widening as they receded from the pound.—we passed a rock this evening standing in the middle of the river, and the bed of the river was formed principally of gravel. we encamped this evening on a sand point on Lard. side. a little above our encampment the river was confined to a channel of 80 yards in width.-
Monday, April 15, 1805. We set out early this morning. I walked along the shore, while Capt. Clark stayed with the group, as we have a strict rule not to be away from our boats at the same time. I walked through the river bottom on the starboard side. It was partially covered in trees and was expansive, flat, and beautiful. During my walk, which was about 6 miles, I came across a small stream of clear water flowing from the hills. When I tasted it, I found it to be slightly brackish, having less Glauber salt or alum than most streams from the hills usually do. In a small pond created by this stream where it entered the lowlands, I heard frogs calling for the first time this season; their call was similar to that of the small frogs common in the lagoons and swamps of the United States. I saw many geese feeding in the lowlands, and I shot one. I also spotted some deer and elk, but they were quite skittish. Additionally, I encountered a large number of grouse, or prairie hens as they're called by English traders in the Northwest. These birds seemed to be courting; the male's call is "kuck, kuck, kuck, coo, coo, coo." Both the male and female use the first part of the call when flying. The male also makes a sound similar to a pheasant, but not nearly as loud. After breakfast, Capt. Clark walked along the starboard shore, and when he returned in the evening, he shared the details of his exploration: "I climbed up to the high country, about 9 miles from the Missouri. The area consists of beautiful, flat, and fertile plains with almost no trees. I saw many small streams rising from the river hills, flowing northeast as far as I could see." We believe these streams are part of Mous River, a branch of the Assinniboine, which the Indians told us comes quite close to the Missouri around this area. "I passed," he continued, "a creek about 20 yards wide that flows into the Missouri; the flats by this creek are wide, flat, and extremely fertile but nearly devoid of trees. The water in this creek and all other streams we've encountered since leaving Fort Mandan was so heavily infused with salts and other mineral substances that I couldn’t drink it. I saw the remnants of several Assinniboine camps; near one of them, in a small ravine, there was a corral made of timber and brush, designed for capturing the cabrie or antelope. It was built in the following way: a sturdy pen was created with timbers, with a small opening on one side large enough to let an antelope in; from each side of this opening, a curtain extended far away, widening as they moved away from the pen." We passed a rock this evening standing in the middle of the river, and the riverbed was mainly gravel. We set up camp this evening on a sandy point on the left side. Just above our campsite, the river was narrowed to a channel of 80 yards wide.
[Clark, April 15, 1805]
15th of April Monday 1805 Set out at an early hour, Captn Lewis walked on Shore and Killed a goose, passed a Island in a bend to the L. S. the wind hard from the S. E. after brackfast I walked on Shore and assended to the high Countrey on the S. S. and off from the Missouri about three miles the countrey is butifull open fertile plain the dreans take theer rise near the Clifts of the river and run from the river in a N E derection as far as I could See, this is the part of the River which Mouse river the waters of Lake Winnipec approaches within a fiew miles of Missouri, and I believe those dreans lead into that river. we passed a creek about 20 yds. wide on the S. S. the bottoms of this Creek is extensive & fertile, the water of this as also, all the Streams which head a fiew miles in the hills discharge water which is black & unfit for use (and can Safely Say that I have not Seen one drop of water fit for use above fort Mandan except Knife and the little Missouris Rivers and the Missouri, the other Streams being So much impregnated with mineral as to be verry disagreeble in its present State.) I saw the remains of Several Camps of ossinniboins, near one of those camps & at no great distance from the mouth of the aforesid Creek, in a hollow, I saw a large Strong pen made for the purpose of Catching the antelope, with wings projecting from it widining from the pen
15th of April, Monday, 1805 Set out early. Captain Lewis walked on shore and killed a goose. We passed an island in a bend to the left side. The wind was strong from the southeast. After breakfast, I walked on shore and climbed up to the high country on the south side. About three miles off from the Missouri, the land was beautifully open and fertile. The streams rise near the cliffs of the river and flow northeast as far as I could see. This part of the river is where the Mouse River comes close to the waters of Lake Winnipec within a few miles of the Missouri, and I believe these streams lead into that river. We passed a creek about 20 yards wide on the south side. The banks of this creek are extensive and fertile. However, the water from this creek and all the streams that originate a few miles in the hills discharges black water, which is unsuitable for use. I can safely say that I haven't seen a drop of usable water above Fort Mandan, except for the Knife and the Little Missouri Rivers and the Missouri itself. The other streams are so contaminated with minerals that the water is very unpleasant in its current state. I saw the remains of several camps of Osinniboins near one of those camps and not far from the mouth of the aforementioned creek. In a hollow, I spotted a large, strong pen made for the purpose of catching antelope, with wings projecting from it and widening from the pen.
Saw Several gangs of Buffalow and Some elk at a distance, a black bear Seen from the Perogues to day—passed a rock in the Middle of the river, Some Smaller rocks from that to the L. Shore, the dog that came to us yesterday morning continues to follow us, we camped on a Sand point to the L. S.
Saw several groups of buffalo and some elk in the distance, and a black bear was spotted from the canoes today—passed a rock in the middle of the river, with some smaller rocks leading to the left shore. The dog that came to us yesterday morning keeps following us. We camped on a sandy point on the left shore.
[Lewis, April 16, 1805]
Tuesday April 16th 1805. Set out very early this morning. Capt. Clark walked on Shore this morning, and killed an Antelope, rejoined us at 1/2 after eight A.M.- he informed me that he had seen many Buffaloe Elk and deer in his absence, and that he had met with a great number of old hornets nests in the woody bottoms through which he had passed.—the hills of the river still continue extreemly broken for a few miles back, when it becomes a fine level country of open fertile lands immediately on the river there are many fine leavel extensive and extreemly fertile high plains and meadows. I think the quantity of timbered land on the river is increasing. the mineral appearances still continue. I met with several stones today that had the appearance of wood first carbonated and then petrefyed by the water of the river, which I have discovered has that effect on many vegitable substances when exposed to it's influence for a length of time. l believe it to be the stratas of Coal seen in those hills which causes the fire and birnt appearances frequently met with in this quarter. where those birnt appearances are to be seen in the face of the river bluffs, the coal is seldom seen, and when you meet with it in the neighbourhood of the stratas of birnt earth, the coal appears to be presisely at the same hight, and is nearly of the same thickness, togeter with the sand and a sulphurious substance which ususually accompanys it. there was a remarkable large beaver caught by one of the party last night. these anamals are now very abundant. I have met with several trees which have been felled by them 20 Inches in diameter. bark is their only food; and they appear to prefer that of the Cotton wood and willow; as we have never met with any other species of timber on the Missouri which had the appearance of being cut by them.—we passed three small creeks on the Stard. side. they take their rise in the river hills at no great distance. we saw a great number of geese today, both in the plains and on the river—I have observed but few ducks, those we have met with are the Mallard and blue winged Teal
Tuesday, April 16, 1805. We set out very early this morning. Captain Clark walked onshore and killed an antelope, then rejoined us at 8:30 AM. He told me he had seen many buffalo, elk, and deer while he was away, and he found a lot of old hornet nests in the wooded areas he passed through. The hills along the river remain quite broken for a few miles, after which it becomes a nice level area with open, fertile land right by the river. There are many beautiful, extensive, and extremely fertile high plains and meadows. I believe the amount of timbered land by the river is increasing. The mineral signs are still present. I came across several stones today that looked like wood that had been carbonized and then petrified by the river's water, which I’ve noticed has that effect on many plant materials when exposed to it over time. I think it’s the coal layers in those hills that cause the burned and charred appearances commonly found in this area. Where these burned spots are visible in the river bluffs, coal is usually not seen, and when you do find it near the burned earth strata, the coal seems to be at the same height and is almost the same thickness, along with sand and a sulfurous substance that usually accompanies it. A notably large beaver was caught by one of our group last night. These animals are now very plentiful. I've encountered several trees that they’ve felled, measuring 20 inches in diameter. Bark is their only food, and they seem to prefer that of cottonwood and willow; we’ve never found any other types of timber along the Missouri that looked like it had been cut by them. We passed three small creeks on the starboard side, which rise in the river hills not far away. We saw a large number of geese today, both in the plains and on the river—I’ve noticed very few ducks; the ones we’ve encountered are mallards and blue-winged teal.
[Clark, April 16, 1805]
16th of April Tuesday 1805 Wind hard from the S. E I walked on Shore and Killed an antilope which was verry meagre, Saw great numbers of Elk & some buffalow & Deer, a verry large Beaver Cought this morning. Some verry handsom high planes & extensive bottoms, the mineral appearances of Coal & Salt together with Some appearance of Burnt hils continue. a number of old hornets nests Seen in every bottom more perticularly in the one opposit to the place we camped this night—the wooded bottoms are more extensive to day than Common. passed three Small Creeks on the S. S. to day which take their rise in the hills at no great distance, Great numbers of Gees in the river & in the Plains feeding on the Grass.
April 16th, Tuesday, 1805. The wind was strong from the southeast. I walked onshore and killed an antelope, which was quite lean. I saw many elk, some buffalo, and deer, and a very large beaver was caught this morning. There were some beautiful high plains and extensive bottoms, with signs of coal and salt, along with some evidence of burned hills continuing. I noticed several old hornets' nests in every bottom, especially in the one opposite where we camped tonight—the wooded bottoms are more extensive today than usual. I passed three small creeks on the south side today, which originate in the nearby hills. There are a lot of geese in the river and in the plains, feeding on the grass.
[Lewis, April 17, 1805]
Wednesday April 17th 1805. A delightfull morning, set out at an erly hour. the country though which we passed to (lay was much the same as that discribed of yesterday; there wase more appearance of birnt hills, furnishing large quanties of lava and pumice stone, of the latter some pieces were seen floating down the river. Capt. Clark walked on shore this morning on the Stard. side, and did not join us untill half after six in the evening. he informed me that he had seen the remains of the Assinniboin encampments in every point of woodland through which he had passed. we saw immence quantities of game in every direction around us as we passed up the river; consisting of herds of Buffaloe, Elk, and Antelopes with some deer and woolves. tho we continue to see many tracks of the bear we have seen but very few of them, and those are at a great distance generally runing from us; I thefore presume that they are extreemly wary and shy; the Indian account of them dose not corrispond with our experience so far. one black bear passed near the perogues on the 16th and was seen by myself and the party but he so quickly disappeared that we did not shoot at him.—at the place we halted to dine on the Lard. side we met with a herd of buffaloe of which I killed the fatest as I concieved among them, however on examining it I found it so poar that I thought it unfit for uce and only took the tongue; the party killed another which was still more lean. just before we encamped this evening we saw some tracks of Indians who had passed about 24 hours; they left four rafts of timber on the Stard. side, on which they had passed. we supposed them to have been a party of the Assinniboins who had been to war against the rocky mountain Indians, and then on their return. Capt. Clark saw a Curlou today. there were three beaver taken this morning by the party. the men prefer the flesh of this anamal, to that of any other which we have, or are able to procure at this moment. I eat very heartily of the beaver myself, and think it excellent; particularly the tale, and liver. we had a fair wind today which enabled us to sail the greater part of the distance we have travled, encamped on the Lard shore the extremity of the last course
Wednesday, April 17th, 1805. A delightful morning; we set out early. The landscape we passed through was much like what I described yesterday; there were more signs of burnt hills, providing large quantities of lava and pumice stone, with some pieces seen floating down the river. Captain Clark walked along the shore on the starboard side this morning and didn't join us until six-thirty in the evening. He told me he had seen the remains of the Assinniboin encampments in every wooded area he passed through. We noticed immense amounts of game in every direction as we traveled up the river, including herds of buffalo, elk, and antelopes, along with some deer and wolves. Although we saw many bear tracks, we encountered very few bears, and those were generally running away from us. I assume they are extremely cautious and shy; the Indian accounts of them do not match our experiences so far. One black bear passed close to the pirogues on the 16th, and both I and the party saw it, but it disappeared so quickly that we did not take a shot. While halting to dine on the left bank, we encountered a herd of buffalo, and I killed what I thought was the fattest among them; however, upon examination, I found it so poor that I deemed it unfit for use and only took the tongue. The party killed another that was even leaner. Just before we set up camp this evening, we saw tracks of Indians who had passed about 24 hours earlier; they left four rafts of timber on the starboard side, which they had used to cross. We suspected they were a group of Assinniboins who had gone to war against the Rocky Mountain Indians and were now returning. Captain Clark spotted a curlew today. The party trapped three beavers this morning. The men prefer the meat of this animal over any other that we have or can currently obtain. I enjoyed the beaver meat myself and think it’s excellent, especially the tail and liver. We had a good wind today that let us sail most of the distance we traveled and camped on the left shore at the end of our last course.
[Clark, April 17, 1805]
17th of April Wednesday 1805 a fine morning wind from the S E. Genly to day handsom high extencive rich Plains on each Side, the mineral appearances continue with greater appearances of Coal, much greater appearance of the hills haveing been burnt, more Pumice Stone & Lava washed down to the bottoms and some Pumice Stone floating in the river, I walked on the S. S. Saw great numbs. of Buffalow feeding in the Plains at a distance Capt. Lewis killed 2 Buffalow buls which was near the water at the time of dineing, they were So pore as to be unfit for use. I Saw Several Small parties of antelopes large herds of Elk, Some white wolves, and in a pond (formed on the S. S. by the Missouries Changeing its bead) I Saw Swan Gees & different kinds of Ducks in great numbers also a Beaver house. Passed a Small Creek on the S. S. & Several runs of water on each Side, Saw the remains of Indian camps in every point of timbered land on the S. S. in the evining a thunder gust passed from the S W, without rain, about Sunset Saw Some fresh Indians track and four rafts on the shore S. S. Those I prosume were Ossinniboins who had been on a war party against the Rockey Mountain Indians—Saw a Curlow, Some verry large beaver taken this morning. those animals are made use of as food and preferred by the party to any other at this Season
April 17, 1805, Wednesday: It was a beautiful morning with a breeze coming from the southeast. Today we saw vast, rich plains on both sides, and the mineral signs were more pronounced, especially with coal. There were more signs of hills that had been burned, and we noticed pumice stones and lava being washed down, with some pumice stones floating in the river. I walked along the south side and saw large numbers of buffalo grazing in the plains at a distance. Captain Lewis shot two buffalo bulls that were near the water at lunchtime, but they were so poor they were unfit for consumption. I spotted several small groups of antelope, large herds of elk, some white wolves, and in a pond formed on the south side by the Missouri River changing its course, I saw numerous swan geese and various kinds of ducks, as well as a beaver lodge. We passed a small creek on the south side and several streams of water on both sides, and I observed the remnants of Indian camps in every wooded area on the south side. In the evening, a thunderstorm blew in from the southwest, but we didn’t get any rain. Around sunset, I saw some fresh Indian tracks and four rafts on the shore of the south side. I assume they belonged to the Ossiniboins who had been on a war party against the Rocky Mountain Indians. I also saw a curlew and some very large beavers caught this morning. Those animals are used as food and preferred by the party over anything else at this season.
[Lewis, April 18, 1805]
Thursday April 18th 1805. A fine morning, set out at an early hour. one Beaver caught this morning by two traps, having a foot in each; the traps belonged to different individuals, between whom, a contest ensued, which would have terminated, most probably, in a serious rencounter had not our timely arrival at the place prevented it. after breakfast this morning, Capt. Clark walked on Stad. shore, while the party were assending by means of their toe lines, I walked with them on the bank; found a species of pea bearing a yellow flower, and now in blume; it seldom rises more than 6 inches high, the leaf & stalk resembles that of the common gardin pea, the root is pirenial. (See specimen of vegitables No. 3.) I also saw several parsels of buffaloe's hair hanging on the rose bushes, which had been bleached by exposure to the weather and became perfectly white. it every appearance of the wool of the sheep, tho much finer and more silkey and soft. I am confident that an excellent cloth may be made of the wool of the Buffaloe. the Buffaloe I killed yesterday had cast his long hare, and the poll which remained was very thick, fine, and about 2 inches in length. I think this anamal would have furnished about five pounds of wool. we were detained today from one to five P.M. in consequence of the wind which blew so violently from N. that it was with difficulty we could keep the canoes from filling with water altho they were along shore; I had them secured by placing the perogues on the out side of them in such manner as to break the waves off them. at 5 we proceed, and shortly after met with Capt. Clark, who had killed an Elk and a deer and was wating our arrival. we took the meat on board and continued our march untill nearly dark when we came too on the Stard side under a boald welltimbered bank which sheltered us from the wind which had abated but not yet ceased. here we encamped, it being the extremity of the last course of this day.-
Thursday, April 18th, 1805. It was a beautiful morning, and we set out early. We caught a beaver this morning in two traps, each belonging to different people. This led to a competition between them that might have ended in a serious altercation if we hadn't arrived just in time to stop it. After breakfast, Captain Clark walked along the starboard shore while the team was ascending using their toe lines. I walked with them along the bank and found a type of pea with yellow flowers that was currently in bloom. It rarely grows taller than 6 inches, and its leaves and stems look like those of regular garden peas; the root is perennial. (See specimen of vegetables No. 3.) I also saw several pieces of buffalo hair hanging on the rose bushes, which had been bleached by the weather and had turned completely white. It looked just like sheep wool, but much finer, silkier, and softer. I'm sure great cloth could be made from buffalo wool. The buffalo I killed yesterday had shed its long hair, and the remaining fur was very thick, fine, and about 2 inches long. I believe this animal could have provided about five pounds of wool. We were held up today from 1 to 5 P.M. because the wind was blowing so fiercely from the north that it was difficult to keep the canoes from taking on water, even though they were along the shore. I secured them by placing the perogues on their sides to break the waves. At 5, we continued on and soon met Captain Clark, who had killed an elk and a deer and was waiting for us. We loaded the meat onto the canoes and kept going until nearly dark when we stopped on the starboard side under a high, well-timbered bank that sheltered us from the wind that had calmed but not completely stopped. Here, we set up camp, marking the end of the last leg of today’s journey.
[Clark, April 18, 1805]
18th of April Thursday 1805 Set out at an early hour one Beaver & a Musrat Cought this morning, the beaver cought in two traps, which like to have brought about a missunderstanding between two of the party &c. after brackfast I assended a hill and observed that the river made a great bend to the South, I concluded to walk thro the point about 2 miles and take Shabono, with me, he had taken a dost of Salts &c. his Squar followed on with his child, when I Struck the next bend of the river could See nothing of the Party, left this man & his wife & Child on the river bank and went out to hunt, Killed a young Buck Elk, & a Deer, the Elk was tolerable meat, the Deer verry pore, Butcherd the meat and Continued untill near Sunset before Capt Lewis and the party Came up, they were detained by the wind, which rose Soon after I left the boat from the N W. & blew verry hard untill verry late in the evening. we Camped on the S. S. in an excellent harbor, Soon after We came too, two men went up the river to Set their beaver traps they met with a Bear and being without their arms thought prodent to return &c. the wild Cheries are in bloom, Great appearance of Burnt hills Pumice Stone &c. the Coal & Salt appearance Continued, the water in the Small runs much better than below,—Saw Several old Indian Camps, the game, Such as Buffalow Elk, antelopes & Deer verry plenty
18th of April, Thursday, 1805 We set out early and caught one beaver and a muskrat this morning. The beaver was caught in two traps, which almost caused a misunderstanding between two members of the party, etc. After breakfast, I climbed a hill and noticed the river had a significant bend to the south. I decided to walk through the point for about two miles and took Shabono with me. He had taken a dose of salts, and his wife followed with their child. When I reached the next bend in the river, I couldn't see any of the party. I left this man, his wife, and child on the riverbank and went hunting. I killed a young buck elk and a deer; the elk was decent meat, while the deer was very poor. I butchered the meat and continued until near sunset before Capt. Lewis and the party caught up. They were delayed by strong winds that picked up soon after I left the boat and blew hard until late in the evening. We camped on the south side in a great harbor. Shortly after we arrived, two men went up the river to set their beaver traps. They encountered a bear and wisely decided to return since they were unarmed, etc. The wild cherries are in bloom, and there are many signs of burnt hills, pumice stone, etc. The coal and salt formations continued, and the water in the smaller streams is much better than below. I saw several old Indian camps, and game like buffalo, elk, antelope, and deer are very plentiful.
[Lewis, April 19, 1805]
Friday April 19th 1805. The wind blew So hard this morning from N. W. that we dared not to venture our canoes on the river.—Observed considerable quantities of dwarf Juniper on the hillsides (see specimen No. 4) it seldom rises higher then 3 feet.—the wind detained us through the couse of this day, tho we were fortunate in having placed ourselves in a safe harbour. the party killed one Elk and a beaver today. The beaver of this part of the Missouri are larger, fatter, more abundant and better clad with fur than those of any other part of the country that I have yet seen; I have remarked also that their fur is much darker.
Friday, April 19, 1805. The wind blew so hard this morning from the northwest that we didn’t dare take our canoes out on the river. We noticed a lot of dwarf juniper on the hillsides (see specimen No. 4); it rarely grows taller than 3 feet. The wind kept us detained throughout the day, though we were lucky to have found a safe harbor. The team managed to hunt one elk and a beaver today. The beavers in this part of the Missouri are larger, fatter, more plentiful, and have better fur than those I've seen anywhere else in the country; I've also noticed that their fur is much darker.
[Clark, April 19, 1805]
19th of April Friday 1805 a blustering windey day the wind So hard from the N, W. that we were fearfull of ventering our Canoes in the river, lay by all day on the S. Side in a good harber, the Praries appear to green, the cotton trees bigin to leave, Saw some plumb bushes in full bloom, those were the plumb bushes which I have Seen for Some time. Killed an Elk an a Beaver to day—The beaver of this river is much larger than usial, Great deal of Sign of the large Bear,
19th of April, Friday, 1805. It was a windy, blustery day with the wind so strong from the northwest that we were afraid to take our canoes out on the river. We stayed put all day on the south side in a good harbor. The prairies looked very green, and the cottonwood trees were starting to leaf out. I saw some plum bushes in full bloom; those were the same plum bushes I had noticed for some time. Today, I killed an elk and a beaver—the beaver in this river is much larger than usual. There were a lot of signs of large bears around.
[Lewis, April 20, 1805]
Saturday April 20th 1805. The wind continued to blow tolerably hard this morning but by no means as violently as it (lid yesterday; we determined to set out and accordingly departed a little before seven. I walked on shore on the N. side of the river, and Capt Clark proceeded with the party. the river bottoms through which I passed about seven miles were fertil and well covered with Cottonwood some Box alder, ash and red Elm. the under brush, willow, rose bushes Honeysuccle, red willow, goosbury, currant and servicebury & in the open grounds along the foot of the river hills immence quantities of the hisop. in the course of my walk I killed two deer, wounded an Elk and a deer; saw the remains of some Indian hunting camps, near which stood a small scaffold of about 7 feet high on which were deposited two doog slays with their harnis. underneath this scaffold a human body was lying, well rolled in several dressed buffaloe skins and near it a bag of the same materials containg sundry articles belonging to the disceased; consisting of a pare of mockersons, some red and blue earth, beaver's nails, instruments for dressing the Buffalo skin, some dryed roots, several platts of the sweet grass, and a small quantity of Mandan tobacco.—I presume that the body, as well as the bag containing these articles, had formerly been placed on the scaffold as is the custom of these people, but had fallen down by accedent. near the scaffold I saw the carcase of a large dog not yet decayed, which I supposed had been killed at the time the human body was left on the scaffold; this was no doubt the reward, which the poor doog had met with for performing the ____-friendly office to his mistres of transporting her corps to the place of deposit. it is customary with the Assinniboins, Mandans, Minetares &c who scaffold their dead, to sacrefice the favorite horses and doggs of their disceased relations, with a view of their being servicable to them in the land of sperits. I have never heard of any instances of human sacrefices on those occasions among them.
Saturday, April 20th, 1805. The wind was blowing pretty hard this morning, but not nearly as violently as it did yesterday; we decided to set out and left a little before seven. I walked along the shore on the north side of the river, while Capt. Clark and the party moved on. The river bottoms I passed through for about seven miles were fertile and well-covered with Cottonwood, some Box Alder, ash, and red Elm. The underbrush included willow, rose bushes, honeysuckle, red willow, gooseberry, currant, and serviceberry, and in the open areas along the foot of the river hills, there were immense quantities of hyssop. During my walk, I killed two deer, wounded an elk and a deer, and saw remnants of some Indian hunting camps, near which was a small scaffold about seven feet high, containing two dog sleighs with their harness. Beneath this scaffold lay a human body rolled in several dressed buffalo skins, and nearby was a bag made of the same material containing various articles belonging to the deceased, including a pair of moccasins, some red and blue earth, beaver nails, tools for dressing buffalo skin, some dried roots, several bundles of sweet grass, and a small amount of Mandan tobacco. I assume that the body, along with the bag of items, had originally been placed on the scaffold as is customary for these people, but had accidentally fallen down. Near the scaffold, I saw the carcass of a large dog that was not yet decayed, which I guessed had been killed when the human body was left on the scaffold; this was likely the fate the poor dog met for performing the loyal service of transporting his mistress' body to the burial site. It is customary among the Assiniboine, Mandan, Minetare, etc., who scaffold their dead, to sacrifice the favorite horses and dogs of their deceased relatives, hoping they will be of service to them in the spirit world. I have never heard of any instances of human sacrifices on these occasions among them.
The wind blew so hard that I concluded it was impossible fror the perogues and canoes to proceed and therefore returned and joined them about three in the evening. Capt. Clark informed me that soon after seting out, a part of the bank of the river fell in near one of the canoes and had very nearly filled her with water. that the wind became so hard and the waves so high that it was with infinite risk he had been able to get as far as his present station. the white perrogue and several of the canoes had shiped water several times but happily our stores were but little injured; those which were wet we put out to dry and determined to remain untill the next morning. we sent out four hunters who soon added 3 Elk 4 gees and 2 deer to our stock of provisions. the party caught six beaver today which were large and in fine order. the Buffaloe, Elk and deer are poor at this season, and of tours are not very palitable, however our good health and apetites make up every necessary deficiency, and we eat very heartily of them.- encamped on Stard side; under a high well timbered bank.
The wind blew so hard that I figured it was impossible for the perogues and canoes to continue, so I turned back and rejoined them around three in the afternoon. Capt. Clark told me that soon after they set out, part of the riverbank collapsed near one of the canoes and nearly sank it. The wind was so strong and the waves so high that he risked a lot just to get to his current location. The white perrogue and several of the canoes took on water multiple times, but fortunately, our supplies were not badly damaged; we set out the wet items to dry and decided to stay until the next morning. We sent out four hunters who quickly added 3 elk, 4 geese, and 2 deer to our food supplies. The party caught six large, well-kept beavers today. The buffalo, elk, and deer are lean this season and aren’t very appetizing; however, our good health and appetites make up for what we’re missing, and we eat heartily. We camped on the starboard side under a high, well-timbered bank.
[Clark, April 20, 1805]
20th of April Satturday 1805 wind a head from the N W. we Set out at 7 oClock proceeded on, Soon after we Set out a Bank fell in near one of the Canoes which like to have filled her with water, the wind became hard and waves So rought that we proceeded with our little Canoes with much risque, our Situation was Such after Setting out that we were obliged to pass round the 1st Point or lay exposed to the blustering winds & waves, in passing round the Point Several canoes took in water as also our large Perogue but without injuring our Stores & much I proceeded on to the upper part of the 1st bend and came too at a butifull Glade on the S. S., about 1 mile below Capt Lewis who had walked thro the point, left his Coat & a Deer on the bank which we took on board,-. a Short distance below our Camp I Saw Some rafts on the S. S. near which, an Indian woman was Scaffeled in the Indian form of Deposing their dead, & fallen down She was or had been raised about 6 feet inclosed in Several robes tightly laced around her, with her dog Slays, her bag of Different coloured earths paint Small bones of animals beaver nales and Several other little trinkets, also a blue jay, her dog was killed and lay near her. Capt. Lewis joined me Soon after I landed & informed me he has walked Several miles higher, & in his walk killed 2 Deer & wounded an Elk & a Deer, our party Shot in the river four beaver & cought two, which were verry fat and much admired by the men, after we landed they killed 3 Elk 4 Gees & 2 Deer we had Some of our Provisions & which got a little wet aired, the wind Continued So hard that we were Compelled to delay all day. Saw Several buffalow lodged in the drift wood which had been drouned in the winter in passing the river; Saw the remains of 2 which had lodged on the Side of the bank & eate by the bears.
20th of April, Saturday, 1805. The wind was from the northwest. We set out at 7 o'clock and continued on. Soon after we started, a bank collapsed near one of the canoes, nearly filling it with water. The wind picked up and the waves got so rough that we had to navigate our small canoes with great risk. Our situation was such that we had to go around the first point or risk being exposed to the strong winds and waves. While going around the point, several canoes took on water, including our large perogue, but it didn’t harm our supplies. I went on to the upper part of the first bend and docked at a beautiful glade on the south side, about a mile below Captain Lewis, who had walked through the point. He had left his coat and a deer on the bank, which we took on board. A short distance below our camp, I saw some rafts on the south side, near which an Indian woman was preparing their dead in the traditional way. She was or had been raised about six feet, enclosed in several robes tightly bound around her, along with her dog, a bag of different colored earths for paint, small animal bones, beaver nails, and several other little trinkets, including a blue jay. Her dog was dead and lay nearby. Captain Lewis joined me soon after I landed and told me that he had walked several miles higher and in his walk had killed two deer and wounded an elk and a deer. Our party shot four beavers in the river and caught two, which were very fat and admired by the men. After we landed, they killed three elk, four geese, and two deer. We had some of our provisions, which got a little wet and aired out. The wind continued to blow hard, so we were forced to delay all day. I saw several buffalo lodged in the driftwood, which had drowned in the winter while crossing the river. I also saw the remains of two that had washed up on the bank and were eaten by bears.
This morning was verry cold, Some Snow about 2 oClock from flying clouds, Some frost this morning & the mud at the edge of the water was frosed
This morning was very cold, some snow around 2 o'clock from drifting clouds, some frost this morning, and the mud at the water's edge was frozen.
[Lewis, April 21, 1805]
Sunday April 21st 1805. Set out at an early hour this morning. Capt Clark walked on shore; the wind tho a head was not violent. the country through which we passed is very simelar in every rispect to that through which we have passed for several days.—We saw immence herds of buffaloe Elk deer & Antelopes. Capt Clark killed a buffaloe and 4 deer in the course of his walk today; and the party with me killed 3 deer, 2 beaver, and 4 buffaloe calves. the latter we found very delicious. I think it equal to any veal I ever tasted. the Elk now begin to shed their horns. passed one large and two small creeks on the Lard. side, tho neither of them discharge any water at present. the wind blew so hard this evening that we were obliged to halt several hours. we reached the place of incampment after dark, which was on the Lard. side a little above White earth river which discharges itself on the Stard. side. immediately at the mouth of this river it is not more than 10 yards wide being choked up by the mud of the Missouri; tho after leaving the bottom lands of this river, or even sooner, it becomes a boald stream of sixty yards wide and is deep and navigable. the course of this river as far as I could see from the top of Cut bluff, was due North. it passes through a beatifull level and fertile vally about five miles in width. I think I saw about 25 miles up this river, and did not discover one tree or bush of any discription on it's borders. the vally was covered with Elk and buffaloe. saw a great number of gees today as usual, also some swan and ducks.
Sunday, April 21, 1805. We set out early this morning. Captain Clark walked on shore; the wind, although coming from the front, wasn't too strong. The landscape we passed was very similar in every way to what we’ve seen for the past several days. We encountered huge herds of buffalo, elk, deer, and antelopes. Captain Clark killed a buffalo and four deer during his walk today, and the group with me hunted three deer, two beavers, and four buffalo calves. We found the calves to be very tasty. I think it's just as good as any veal I’ve ever had. The elk are starting to shed their antlers now. We passed one large creek and two smaller ones on the left side, although neither is currently flowing. The wind picked up so much this evening that we had to stop for several hours. We reached our campsite after dark, which was on the left side, a little above the White Earth River, which flows in on the right side. At the mouth of this river, it’s only about 10 yards wide, clogged with mud from the Missouri; however, after leaving the river's bottom lands, or even sooner, it becomes a broad stream about sixty yards wide and is deep enough to navigate. The course of this river, as far as I could see from the top of Cut Bluff, was due north. It flows through a beautiful, flat, and fertile valley about five miles wide. I think I could see about 25 miles up this river, and I didn’t notice a single tree or bush of any kind along its banks. The valley was filled with elk and buffalo. I also saw a lot of geese today, as usual, along with some swans and ducks.
[Clark, April 21, 1805]
21st of April Sunday 1805 Set out early the wind gentle & from the N. W. the river being verry Crooked, I concluded to walk through the point, the Countrey on either Side is verry Similar to that we have passed, Saw an emence number of Elk & Buffalow, also Deer Antelopes Geese Ducks & a fiew Swan, the Buffalow is about Calveing I killed a Buffalow & 4 Deer in my walk to day, the party killed 2 deer 2 beaver & 4 Buffalow Calves, which was verry good veele. I Saw old Camps of Indians on the L. Side, we passed 1 large & 2 Small Creeks on the L. Side neither of them discharge any water into the river, in the evening the wind became verry hard a head, we made Camp at a late hour which was on the L. Side a little above the mouth of White Earth River which falls in on the Stad Side and is 60 yds. wide, several Mes. up
21st of April, Sunday, 1805 Set out early with a gentle wind from the NW. The river is very crooked, so I decided to walk through the point. The countryside on either side is very similar to what we've already passed. I saw a huge number of elk and buffalo, as well as deer, antelope, geese, ducks, and a few swans. The buffalo are about to calve. I killed a buffalo and four deer on my walk today; the party killed two deer, two beavers, and four buffalo calves, which made for some very good veal. I saw old Indian camps on the left side. We passed one large and two small creeks on the left side; neither of them flow into the river. In the evening, the wind picked up strongly against us, and we set up camp late on the left side, just above the mouth of the White Earth River, which flows in on the south side and is 60 yards wide, several miles upstream.
[Lewis, April 22, 1805]
Monday April 22cd 1805. Set out at an early hour this morning; proceeded pretty well untill breakfat, when the wind became so hard a head that we proceeded with difficulty even with the assistance of our toe lines. the party halted and Cpt. Clark and myself walked to the white earth river which approaches the Missouri very near at this place, being about 4 miles above it's entrance. we found that it contained more water than streams of it's size generally do at this season. the water is much clearer than that of the Missouri. the banks of the river are steep and not more than ten or twelve feet high; the bed seems to be composed of mud altogether. the salts which have been before mentioned as common on the Missouri, appears in great quantities along the banks of this river, which are in many places so thickly covered with it that they appear perfectly white. perhaps it has been from this white appearance of it's banks that the river has derived it's name. this river is said to be navigable nearly to it's source, which is at no great distance from the Saskashawan, and I think from it's size the direction which it seems to take, and the latitude of it's mouth, that there is very good ground to believe that it extends as far North as latitude 50°.—this stream passes through an open country generally.—the broken hills of the Missouri about this place exhibit large irregular and broken masses of rocks and stones; some of which tho 200 feet above the level of the water seem at some former period to have felt it's influence, fo they appear smoth as if woarn by the agetation of the water. this collection consists of white & grey gannite, a brittle black rock, flint, limestone, freestone, some small specimens of an excellent pebble and occasionally broken stratas of a stone which appears to be petrefyed wood, it is of a black colour, and makes excellent whetstones. Coal or carbonated wood pumice stone lava and other mineral apearances still continue. the coal appears to be of better quality; I exposed a specimen of it to the fire and found that it birnt tolerably well, it afforded but little flame or smoke, but produced a hot and lasting fire.—I asscended to the top of the cutt bluff this morning, from whence I had a most delightfull view of the country, the whole of which except the vally formed by the Missouri is void of timber or underbrush, exposing to the first glance of the spectator immence herds of Buffaloe, Elk, deer, & Antelopes feeding in one common and boundless pasture. we saw a number of bever feeding on the bark of the trees alonge the verge of the river, several of which we shot, found them large and fat. walking on shore this evening I met with a buffaloe calf which attatched itself to me and continued to follow close at my heels untill I embarked and left it. it appeared allarmed at my dog which was probably the cause of it's so readily attatching itself to me. Capt Clark informed me that he saw a large drove of buffaloe pursued by wolves today, that they at length caught a calf which was unable to keep up with the herd. the cows only defend their young so long as they are able to keep up with the herd, and seldom return any distance in surch of them.-
Monday, April 22, 1805. We set out early this morning and made good progress until breakfast, when the wind picked up so much that we struggled to move forward, even with our tow lines. The group halted, and Captain Clark and I walked to the White Earth River, which gets really close to the Missouri here, about 4 miles upstream from where it flows in. We found that it had more water than similar-sized streams usually do at this time of year. The water is much clearer than that of the Missouri. The riverbanks are steep, around ten to twelve feet high, and the bed seems to be made entirely of mud. The salts previously noted as common on the Missouri are found in great amounts along the banks of this river, to the extent that in many spots, the banks look completely white. This white appearance may be why the river got its name. It is said that the river is navigable nearly to its source, which is not far from the Saskatchewan, and I believe, based on its size, direction, and latitude at its mouth, that it likely extends as far north as latitude 50°. This stream flows through mostly open country. The rugged hills near the Missouri here show large, irregular chunks of rock and stone, some of which, though 200 feet above the water level, appear to have been smoothed by it at some earlier time, looking worn as if shaped by the water. The collection includes white and gray granite, a brittle black rock, flint, limestone, freestone, some small bits of excellent gravel, and occasionally broken layers of a stone that looks like petrified wood, which is black in color and makes great whetstones. Coal or carbonized wood, pumice, lava, and other mineral appearances are still present. The coal seems to be of better quality; I tested a piece in the fire, and it burned fairly well, producing little flame or smoke but giving off a hot and lasting fire. I climbed to the top of the cut bluff this morning, where I had a wonderful view of the land, which, aside from the valley formed by the Missouri, is mostly free of trees or underbrush, revealing huge herds of buffalo, elk, deer, and antelopes grazing in a vast, open pasture. We saw several beavers eating the bark off the trees along the riverbank, and we shot a few, finding them large and plump. While walking along the shore this evening, I came across a buffalo calf that attached itself to me and followed at my heels until I got on my boat and left it behind. It seemed frightened by my dog, which was probably why it took to me so quickly. Captain Clark told me he saw a large group of buffalo being chased by wolves today, and eventually, they caught a calf that couldn't keep up with the herd. The cows only protect their young as long as they can keep up with the herd and rarely go back searching for them.
[Clark, April 22, 1805]
22nd of April Monday 1805 a verry cold morning Some frost, we Set out at an early hour and proceeded on verry well untill brackfast at which time the wind began to blow verry hard ahead, and Continued hard all day we proceeded on with much dificuelty with the assistance of the toe Ropes. Capt. Lewis & my Self walked to the ____ River which is near the Missouri four miles above its mouth, this river is 60 yards wide and contains a greater perportion of water at this time than is Common for Rivers of its Size it appears navagable as fur as any of the party was, and I am told to near its Source in morrasses in the open Plains, it passes (as far as we can See which is 6 or 7 Leagus) thro a butifull extinsive vallie, rich & fertile and at this time Covered with Buffalow, Elk & antelopes, which may be Seen also in any other direction in this quarter—this river must take its rise at no great distance Easte of the Saskashawan, and no doubt as far N. as Latd. 50°
April 22nd, Monday, 1805 - It was a very cold morning with some frost. We set out early and made good progress until breakfast, when the wind started blowing really hard against us and continued that way all day. We moved forward with a lot of difficulty, aided by the tow ropes. Captain Lewis and I walked to the ____ River, which is located near the Missouri, about four miles above its mouth. This river is 60 yards wide and has a larger amount of water than is usually expected for a river of its size. It seems navigable as far as any of the party went, and I've heard it continues near its source in marshes in the open plains. It flows, as far as we can see, which is about six or seven leagues, through a beautiful, extensive valley that is rich and fertile, currently covered with buffalo, elk, and antelopes, which can also be seen in any direction in this area. This river likely originates not far east of the Saskatchewan and probably as far north as latitude 50°.
Some of the high plains or the broken Revien of the river contains great quantity of Pebble Stones of various Sizes, The Stratum of Coal is much richer than below, the appearances of Mineral & burnt hills Still continue the river riseing a little, Saw an emence number of beaver feeding on the waters edge & Swiming Killed Several, Capt. Lewis assended a hill from the top of which he had a most inchanting prospect of the Countrey around & the meanderings of the two rivers, which is remarkable Crooked—a buffalow calf which was on the Shore alone followed Cap Lewis Some distance,—I observed a large drove of buffalow prosued by wolves the wolves cought one of their Calves in my view, those animals defend their young as long as they Can keep up with the drove
Some of the high plains or the broken Revien by the river have a large amount of pebble stones of various sizes. The coal layers are much richer than those below, and mineral and burnt hills are still visible. The river rises a little. I saw an immense number of beavers feeding along the water's edge and swimming—killed several. Captain Lewis climbed a hill from the top of which he had a stunning view of the surrounding country and the winding paths of the two rivers, which are notably crooked. A buffalo calf that was alone on the shore followed Captain Lewis for a short distance. I noticed a large herd of buffalo being pursued by wolves; the wolves caught one of their calves right in front of me. Those animals defend their young as long as they can keep up with the herd.
[Lewis, April 23, 1805]
Tuesday April 23rd Set out at an early hour this morning. about nine A.M. the wind arose, and shortly after became so violent that we were unabled to proceed, in short it was with much difficulty and some risk that I was enabled to get the canoes and perogues into a place of tolerable safety, there being no timber on either side of the river at this place. some of the canoes shiped water, and wet several parsels of their lading, which I directed to be opened and aired we remained untill five in the evening when the wind abating in some measure, we reloaded, and proceeded. shortly after we were joined by Capt. Clark who had walked on shore this morning, and passing through the bottom lands had fallen on the river some miles above, and concluding that the wind had detained us, came down the river in surch of us. he had killed three blacktaled, or mule deer, and a buffaloe Calf, in the course of his ramble. these hard winds, being so frequently repeated, become a serious source of detention to us.—incamped on the Stard. side.-
Tuesday, April 23rd We set out early this morning, around 9 A.M. The wind picked up and soon became so strong that we couldn't continue. It was difficult and somewhat risky to get the canoes and pirogues into a reasonably safe spot, as there was no timber on either side of the river here. Some of the canoes took on water, soaking several of their loads, which I instructed to be opened up and aired out. We stayed there until 5 in the evening, when the wind calmed down a bit, and we reloaded and moved on. Shortly after, we were joined by Capt. Clark, who had walked on shore this morning. He came down the river after passing through the bottom lands a few miles upstream, thinking the wind had held us up. He had killed three black-tailed or mule deer and a buffalo calf during his walk. These strong winds occur so frequently that they seriously delay us. We camped on the starboard side.
[Clark, April 23, 1805]
23rd of April 1805 a cold morning at about 9 oClock the wind as usial rose from the N W and continued to blow verry hard untill late in the evening I walked on Shore after brackfast in my walk on the S side passed through extensive bottoms of timber intersperced with glades & low open plains, I killed 3 mule or black tail Deer, which was in tolerable order, Saw Several others, I also killed a Buffalow Calf which was verry fine, I Struck the river above the Perogus which had Come too in a bend to the L. S. to Shelter from the wind which had become violently hard, I joined Capt Lewis in the evening & after the winds falling which was late in the evening we proceeded on & encamped on the S. S. The winds of this Countrey which blow with Some violence almost every day, has become a Serious obstruction in our progression onward, as we Cant move when the wind is high without great risque, and if there was no risque the winds is generally a head and often too violent to proceed
On April 23, 1805, it was a cold morning around 9 o'clock. The wind, as usual, came from the northwest and kept blowing hard until late in the evening. After breakfast, I walked on shore and, during my walk on the south side, passed through large areas of timber with clearings and low open plains. I shot three mule or black-tailed deer, which were in decent condition, and saw several others. I also killed a buffalo calf that was in great shape. I crossed the river above the canoes, which had come to a bend to the left side to take shelter from the wind, which had become extremely strong. I met up with Captain Lewis in the evening, and after the wind died down late in the evening, we continued on and set up camp on the south side. The winds in this area blow quite violently almost every day, which has become a serious obstacle to our progress. We can't move when the wind is high without significant risk, and even if there were no risk, the wind is usually coming from the front and often too strong to proceed.
[Lewis, April 24, 1805]
Wednesday April 24th The wind blew so hard during the whole of this day, that we were unable to move. notwithstanding that we were sheltered by high timber from the effects of the wind, such was it's violence that it caused the waves to rise in such manner as to wet many articles in the small canoes before they could be unloaded. we sent out some hunters who killed 4 deer & 2 Elk, and caught some young wolves of the small kind.—Soar eyes is a common complaint among the party. I believe it origenates from the immence quantities of sand which is driven by the wind from the sandbars of the river in such clouds that you are unable to discover the opposite bank of the river in many instances. the particles of this sand are so fine and light that they are easily supported by the air, and are carried by the wind for many miles, and at a distance exhibiting every appearance of a collumn of thick smoke. so penitrating is this sand that we cannot keep any article free from it; in short we are compelled to eat, drink, and breath it very freely. my pocket watch, is out of order, she will run only a few minutes without stoping. I can discover no radical defect in her works, and must therefore attribute it to the sand, with which, she seems plentifully charged, notwithstanding her cases are double and tight.
Wednesday, April 24th The wind blew so hard all day that we couldn't move. Even though we were protected by tall trees from the wind's effects, it was so strong that it caused the waves to rise, soaking many items in the small canoes before we could unload them. We sent out some hunters who killed 4 deer and 2 elk, and caught some young wolves of the smaller kind. Sore eyes are a common issue among the group. I believe it comes from the huge amounts of sand blown by the wind from the river's sandbars in such clouds that you can't see the opposite bank in many cases. The grains of this sand are so fine and light that they're easily picked up by the air and carried by the wind for miles, appearing from a distance like a column of thick smoke. This sand is so penetrating that we can't keep anything free from it; in short, we're forced to eat, drink, and breathe it quite freely. My pocket watch is out of order; it only runs for a few minutes without stopping. I can't find any major defect in its mechanism, so I have to blame it on the sand, which seems to have filled it up, even though its cases are double and tight.
[Clark, April 24, 1805]
24th of April Wednesday 1805 The wind rose last night and continued blowing from the N. & N W. and Sometimes with great violence, untill 7 oClock P. M, Several articles wet in the Perogues by their takeing water &c. as the wind was a head we could not move today Sent out hunters, they killed 4 Deer 2 Elk & cought Some young wolves of the Small kind, The party complain much of the Sand in their eyes, the Sand is verry fine and rises in clouds from the Points and bars of the river, I may Say that dureing those winds we eat Drink & breeth a prepotion of Sand.
24th of April, Wednesday, 1805. The wind picked up last night and continued blowing from the north and northwest, sometimes quite fiercely, until 7 o'clock PM. Several items were wet in the pirogues because they took on water, and since the wind was against us, we couldn't move today. We sent out hunters who killed 4 deer, 2 elk, and caught some young wolves of the smaller kind. The group is really complaining about the sand in their eyes; the sand is very fine and rises in clouds from the points and bars of the river. I can say that during these winds, we eat, drink, and breathe a whole lot of sand.
[Lewis, April 25, 1805]
Thursday April 25th 1805. The wind was more moderate this morning, tho still hard; we set out at an early hour. the water friezed on the oars this morning as the men rowed. about 10 oclock A.M. the wind began to blow so violently that we were obliged to lye too. my dog had been absent during the last night, and I was fearfull we had lost him altogether, however, much to my satisfaction he joined us at 8 Oclock this morning. The wind had been so unfavorable to our progress for several days past, and seeing but little prospect of a favourable chang; knowing that the river was crooked, from the report of the hunters who were out yesterday, and beleiving that we were at no very great distance from the Yellow stone River; I determined, in order as mush as possible to avoid detention, to proceed by land with a few men to the entrance of that river and make the necessary observations to determine it's position, which I hoped to effect by the time that Capt. Clark could arrive with the party; accordingly I set out at 1 t OCk. on the Lard. side, accompanyed by four men. we proceeded about four miles, when falling in with some bufaloe I killed a yearling calf, which was in good order; we soon cooked and made a hearty meal of a part of it, and renewed our march our rout lay along the foot of the river hills. when we had proceeded about four miles, I ascended the hills from whence I had a most pleasing view of the country, perticularly of the wide and fertile values formed by the missouri and the yellowstone rivers, which occasionally unmasked by the wood on their borders disclose their meanderings for many miles in their passage through these delightfull tracts of country. I could not discover the junction of the rivers immediately, they being concealed by the woods, however, sensible that it could not be distant I determined to encamp on the bank of the Yellow stone river which made it's appearance about 2 miles South of me. the whol face of the country was covered with herds of Buffaloe, Elk & Antelopes; deer are also abundant, but keep themselves more concealed in the woodland. the buffaloe Elk and Antelope are so gentle that we pass near them while feeding, without apearing to excite any alarm among them, and when we attract their attention, they frequently approach us more nearly to discover what we are, and in some instances pursue us a considerable distance apparenly with that view.—in our way to the place I had determined to encamp, we met with two large herds of buffaloe, of which we killed three cows and a calf. two of the former, wer but lean, we therefore took their tongues and a part of their marrow-bones only. I then proceeded to the place of our encampment with two of the men, taking with us the Calf and marrowbones, while the other two remained, with orders to dress the cow that was in tolerable order, and hang the meat out of the reach of the wolves, a precaution indispensible to it's safe keeping, even for a night. we encamped on the bank of the yellowstone river, 2 miles South of it's confluence with the Missouri. On rejoining Capt. Clark, the 26th in the evening, he informed me, that at 5 P.M. after I left him the wind abated in some measure and he proceeded a few miles further and encamped.
Thursday, April 25, 1805. The wind was calmer this morning, but still strong; we set out early. The water froze on the oars as the men rowed. Around 10 o’clock A.M., the wind picked up so violently that we had to stop. My dog had been missing during the night, and I was worried we had lost him for good, but fortunately, he rejoined us at 8 o'clock this morning. The wind had been unfavorable for our progress for several days, and seeing little chance of improvement; knowing that the river was winding, from what the hunters reported yesterday, and believing that we were not far from the Yellowstone River, I decided to avoid delays as much as possible and proceed overland with a few men to the entrance of that river to make the necessary observations to determine its position, which I hoped to accomplish by the time Captain Clark arrived with the party. So, I set out at 1 o'clock on the left bank, accompanied by four men. We traveled about four miles when we came across some buffalo, and I shot a young calf, which was in good condition; we cooked part of it and enjoyed a hearty meal before continuing our march. Our route followed along the base of the river hills. After traveling about four miles, I climbed the hills and enjoyed a stunning view of the country, especially the wide and fertile valleys formed by the Missouri and Yellowstone rivers, which, sometimes revealed by the woods along their edges, showed their twisting paths for many miles through these lovely areas. I couldn't immediately see where the rivers joined, as they were hidden by trees, but realizing it couldn't be far, I decided to make camp by the Yellowstone River, which appeared about 2 miles south of me. The entire landscape was dotted with herds of buffalo, elk, and antelope; deer were also plentiful but tended to hide more in the woods. The buffalo, elk, and antelope were so tame that we could walk near them while they were feeding without alarming them, and when they noticed us, they often came closer to see what we were, and sometimes even followed us for a considerable distance, seemingly to investigate. On our way to the camping spot I had chosen, we encountered two large herds of buffalo, from which we killed three cows and a calf. Two of the cows were quite lean, so we only took their tongues and some marrow-bones. I then moved on to our campsite with two of the men, taking the calf and marrow bones with us, while the other two stayed behind with instructions to prepare the cow that was in decent condition and hang the meat out of reach of the wolves, a necessary precaution for keeping it safe, even for just one night. We set up camp on the bank of the Yellowstone River, 2 miles south of where it joins the Missouri. When I rejoined Captain Clark on the evening of the 26th, he told me that at 5 P.M., after I had left him, the wind had calmed down a bit and he had continued on for a few more miles before camping.
[Clark, April 25, 1805]
25th of April Thursday 1805 The wind was moderate & ahead this morning, we Set out at an early hour The morning cold, Some flying Clouds to be Seen, the wind from the N. ice collected on the ores this morning, the wind increased and became So violent about 1 oClock we were obliged to lay by our Canoes haveing taken in Some water, the Dog which was lost yesterday, joined us this morning.
25th of April, Thursday, 1805 The wind was moderate and against us this morning. We set out early. The morning was cold, and there were some clouds in the sky with the wind coming from the north. Ice formed on the oars this morning. The wind picked up and became so strong around 1 o'clock that we had to stop with our canoes, having taken in some water. The dog that was lost yesterday joined us this morning.
finding that the winds retarded our progression for maney days past, and no apparance of an alteration, and the river being Crooked that we could never have 3 miles fair wind, Capt. Lewis concluded to go by land as far as the Rochejhone or yellow Stone river, which we expect is at no great distance by land and make Some Selestial observations to find the Situation of its mouth, and by that measure not detain the Perogues at that place any time for the purpose of makeing those necessary observations he took 4 men & proceeded on up the Missouri on the L. Side, at 5 oClock the wind luled and we proceeded on and incamped.
Finding that the winds had slowed our progress for many days with no sign of change, and the river being so winding that we could never have a consistent 3 miles of fair wind, Capt. Lewis decided to travel by land as far as the Rochejhone or Yellow Stone River, which we expect isn't too far away. He planned to make some celestial observations to determine the position of its mouth, so as not to delay the Perogues for those necessary observations. He took 4 men and continued up the Missouri on the left side. At 5 o'clock, the wind died down, and we moved on and set up camp.
[Lewis, April 26, 1805]
Friday April 26th 1805. This morning I dispatched Joseph Fields up the yellowstone river with orders to examine it as far as he could conveniently and return the same evening; two others were directed to bring in the meat we had killed last evening, while I proceeded down the river with one man in order to take a view of the confluence of this great river with the Missouri, which we found to be two miles distant on a direct line N. W. from our encampment. the bottom land on the lower side of the yellowstone river near it's mouth for about one mile in width appears to be subject to inundation; while that on the opposite side of the Missouri and the point formed by the junction of these rivers is of the common elivation, say from twelve to 18 feet above the level of the water, and of course not liable to be overflown except in extreem high water, which dose not appear to be very frequent there is more timber in the neighbourhood of the junction of these rivers, and on the Missouri as far below as the White earth river, than there is on any part of the Missouri above the entrance of the Chyenne river to this place. the timber consists principally of Cottonwood, with some small elm, ash and boxalder. the under growth on the sandbars and verge of the river is the small leafed willow; the low bottoms, rose bushes which rise to three or four feet high, the redburry, servicebury, and the redwood; the high bottoms are of two discriptions either timbered or open; the first lies next to the river and it's under brush is the same with that of the low timbered bottoms with the addition of the broad leafed willow, Goosbury, choke cherry, purple currant; and honeysuckle bushis; the open bottoms border on the hills, and are covered in many parts by the wild hyssop which rises to the hight of two feet. I observe that the Antelope, Buffaloe Elk and deer feed on this herb; the willow of the sandbars also furnish a favorite winter food to these anamals as well as the growse, the porcupine, hare, and rabbit. about 12 Olock I heard the discharge of several guns at the junction of the rivers, which announced to me the arrival of the paty with Capt Clark; I afterwards learnt that they had fired on some buffaloe which they met with at that place, and of which they killed a cow and several Calves; the latter are now fine veal. I dispatched one of the men to Capt Clark requesting him to send up a canoe to take down the meat we had killed and our baggage to his encampmt, which was accordingly complyed with. after I had completed my observations in the evening I walked down and joined the party at their encampment on the point of land fromed by the junction of the rivers; found them all in good health, and much pleased at having arrived at this long wished for spot, and in order to add in some measure to the general pleasure which seemed to pervade our little community, we ordered a dram to be issued to each person; this soon produced the fiddle, and they spent the evening with much hilarity, singing & dancing, and seemed as perfectly to forget their past toils, as they appeared regardless of those to come. in the evening, the man I had sent up the river this morning returned, and reported that he had ascended it about eight miles on a streight line; that he found it crooked, meandering from side to side of the valley formed by it; which is from four to five miles wide. the corrent of the river gentle, and it's bed much interrupted and broken by sandbars; at the distance of five miles he passed a large Island well covered with timber, and three miles higher a large creek falls in on the S. E. sides above a high bluff in which there are several stratas of coal. the country bordering on this river as far as he could percieve, like that of the Missouri, consisted of open plains. he saw several of the bighorned anamals in the couse of his walk; but they were so shy that he could not get a shoot at them; he found a large horn of one of these anamals which he brought with him. the bed of the yellowstone river is entirely composed of sand and mud, not a stone of any kind to be seen in it near it's entrance. Capt Clark measured these rivers just above their confluence; found the bed of the Missouri 520 yards wide, the water occupying 330. it's channel deep. the yellowstone river including it's sandbar, 858 yds. of which, the water occupyed 297 yards; the depest part 12 feet; it was falling at this time & appeard to be nearly at it's summer tide.—the Indians inform that the yellowstone river is navigable for perogues and canoes nearly to it's source in the Rocky Mountains, and that in it's course near these mountains it passes within less than half a day's march of a navigable part of the Missouri. it's extreem sources are adjacent to those of the Missouri, river platte, and I think probably with some of the South branch of the Columbia river. the first part of its course lies through a mountanous rocky country tho well timbered and in many parts fertile; the middle, and much the most extensive portion of the river lies through a delightfull rich and fertile country, well covered with timber, intersperced with plains and meadows, and well watered; it is some what broken in many parts. the lower portion consists of fertile open plains and meadows almost entirely, tho it possesses a considerable proportion of timber on it's borders. the current of the upper portion is extreemly rappid, that of the middle and lower portions much more gentle than the Missouri. the water of this river is turbid, tho dose not possess as much sediment as that of the Missouri. this river in it's course recieves the waters of many large tributary strains principally from the S. E. of which the most considerable are the Tongue and bighorn rivers the former is much the largest, and heads with the river Platte and Bighorn river, as dose the latter with the Tongue river and the river Platte.—a suficient quantity of limestone may be readily procured for building near the junction of the Missouri and yellowstone rivers. I could observe no regular stratas of it, tho it lies on the sides of the river hills in large irregular masses, in considerable quantities; it is of a light colour, and appears to be of an excellent quality.-
Friday, April 26th, 1805. This morning, I sent Joseph Fields up the Yellowstone River with orders to explore it as far as he could and return by the same evening. Two others were instructed to bring in the meat we had killed last night while I went down the river with one man to get a look at where this great river meets the Missouri. We found it to be two miles away in a direct line northwest from our campsite. The floodplain on the lower side of the Yellowstone River near its mouth is about a mile wide and seems prone to flooding, while the land on the opposite side of the Missouri and the point formed by the junction of these rivers is at a common elevation, about twelve to eighteen feet above the water level, and therefore not likely to be flooded except during extremely high water, which doesn’t seem to happen very often. There’s more timber around the junction of these rivers and on the Missouri as far down as the White Earth River than in any part of the Missouri upstream of where the Cheyenne River flows into it. The timber primarily consists of cottonwood, with some small elm, ash, and boxelder. The undergrowth on the sandbars and along the river consists of small-leafed willow; the low areas have rose bushes that grow to three or four feet high, as well as redberry, serviceberry, and redwood. The high areas are either wooded or open; the wooded areas sit next to the river and have the same underbrush as the low wooded bottoms, plus broad-leafed willow, gooseberry, chokecherry, purple currant, and honeysuckle bushes; the open areas by the hills are often covered with wild hyssop that grows to two feet tall. I noticed that antelope, buffalo, elk, and deer feed on this herb; the willows on the sandbars also provide a favorite winter food for these animals, as well as for grouse, porcupines, hares, and rabbits. Around noon, I heard several gunshots at the rivers' junction, signaling the arrival of Capt. Clark’s party. I later learned that they had shot at some buffalo they encountered there, killing a cow and several calves, which are now prime veal. I sent one of the men to Capt. Clark asking him to send a canoe up to collect the meat we killed and our gear for his campsite, which was done. After I finished my observations in the evening, I walked down to join the party at their campsite on the point of land formed by the junction of the rivers; I found them all in good health and very pleased to have arrived at this long-awaited spot. To further boost the general joy that seemed to fill our little community, we decided to issue a drink to each person; this quickly led to the fiddle coming out, and they spent the evening joyfully singing and dancing, appearing to completely forget their past hardships, as if they were also unconcerned about those to come. In the evening, the man I had sent up the river this morning returned and reported that he had traveled about eight miles directly up the river, finding it winding back and forth across the valley that it forms, which is about four to five miles wide. The current of the river is gentle, and its bed is much disrupted and broken by sandbars; at five miles in, he passed a large island well covered with timber, and three miles further up, a large creek joins on the southeast side above a high bluff where there are several layers of coal. The land along this river, as far as he could see, like that of the Missouri, is made up of open plains. He saw several bighorn animals during his walk, but they were so shy that he couldn't get a shot at them; he found a large horn from one of these animals that he brought back with him. The bed of the Yellowstone River is entirely made up of sand and mud, with no stones of any kind visible near its mouth. Capt. Clark measured these rivers just above their junction and found the Missouri River to be 520 yards wide, with the water occupying 330. Its channel is deep. The Yellowstone River, including its sandbar, measures 858 yards, of which the water covers 297 yards, with the deepest part being twelve feet; it was falling at this time and seemed to be close to its summer level. The Indians say the Yellowstone River is navigable for pirogues and canoes almost to its source in the Rocky Mountains, and that along its course near these mountains, it comes within less than half a day’s march of a navigable section of the Missouri. Its extreme sources are close to the Missouri River, the Platte River, and probably near some of the south branches of the Columbia River. The initial portion of its course runs through a mountainous, rocky area that is well-timbered and fertile in many parts; the middle, which is the largest section of the river, flows through a lovely, rich, fertile area that is well-covered with timber, interspersed with plains and meadows, and well-watered; it’s somewhat broken in many areas. The lower part consists mostly of fertile open plains and meadows, although it has a significant amount of timber along its edges. The current in the upper part is extremely fast, while it is much gentler in the middle and lower portions compared to the Missouri. The water of this river is murky, though it does not have as much sediment as that of the Missouri. Along its course, this river receives water from many large tributaries, mostly from the southeast, with the most significant being the Tongue and Bighorn rivers; the former is much larger and originates near the Platte River, while the latter comes from the Tongue River and the Platte. A sufficient amount of limestone can be easily found for building near the junction of the Missouri and Yellowstone rivers. I couldn’t see any regular strata of it, though it sits on the sides of the river hills in large, irregular masses in significant quantities; it is light-colored and appears to be of excellent quality.
[Clark, April 26, 1805]
26th of April Friday 1805 last night was verry Cold. the Thermometer Stood at 32 abov 0 this morning. I Set out at an early hour, as it was cold I walked on the bank, & in my walk Shot a beaver & 2 Deer, one of the Deer in tolerable order, the low bottom of the river is generaly Covered with wood willows & rose bushes, red berry, wild Cherry & red or arrow wood intersperced with glades The timber is Cottonwood principally, Elm Small ash also furnish a portion of the timber, The Clay of the bluffs appear much whiter than below, and Contain Several Stratums of Coal, on the hill Sides I observe pebbles of different Size & Colour—The river has been riseing for Several days, & raised 3 inches last night, at 12 oClock arrived at the forks of the Roche Johne & Missouri and formed a Camp on the point Soon after George Drewyer Came from Capt Lewis & informed me that he was a little way up the Roche johne and would join me this evining, I Sent a canoe up to Capt Lewis and proceeded measure the width of the rivers, and find the debth. The Missouri is 520 yards wide above the point of yellow Stone and the water covers 330 yards; the YellowStone River is 858 yards wide includeing its Sand bar, the water covers 297 yards and the deepest part is 12 feet water, it is at this time falling, the Missouri rising The Indians inform that the yellow Stone River is navagable for Perogues to near its Source in the Rocky Mountains, it has many tributary Streams, principally on the S. E. Side, and heads at no great distance from the Missouri, the largest rivers which fall into it is Tongue river which heads with the waters of River Platt, and Big horn river which also heads with Platt & Tongue R the current of this river is Said to be rapid near its mouth it is verry jentle, and its water is of a whitish colour much Clearer of Sediment than the Missouri. the Countrey on this river is Said to be broken in its whole Course & Contains a great deel of wood, the countrey about its mouth is verry fine, the bottoms on either Side is wooded with Cotton wood, ash, Elm &c. near the banks of the river back is higher bottoms and Covered with red berry, Goose berry & rose bushes &. interspersed with Small open Glades, and near the high land is Generally open rich bottoms—at our arrival at the forks I observed a Drove of Buffalow Cows & Calves on a Sand bar in the point, I directed the men to kill the fattest Cow, and 3 or 4 Calves, which they did and let the others pass, the Cows are pore, Calves fine veele.
April 26, 1805, Friday: Last night was very cold. The thermometer stood at 32 degrees above zero this morning. I set out early; since it was cold, I walked along the bank and while walking, shot a beaver and two deer, one of which was in decent condition. The low area along the river is generally covered with willows, rose bushes, red berries, wild cherries, and arrowwood, interspersed with clearings. The main type of timber is cottonwood, with some elm and small ash contributing to the mix. The clay in the bluffs appears much whiter than below and contains several layers of coal. On the hillside, I noticed pebbles of different sizes and colors. The river has been rising for several days and increased by three inches last night. At noon, I arrived at the forks of the Roche John and Missouri rivers and set up camp at the point. Soon after, George Drewyer came from Captain Lewis and informed me that he was a little way up the Roche John and would join me this evening. I sent a canoe up to Captain Lewis and proceeded to measure the width of the rivers and find their depth. The Missouri is 520 yards wide above the point of Yellowstone, with the water covering 330 yards; the Yellowstone River is 858 yards wide, including its sandbar, with the water covering 297 yards and the deepest part being 12 feet. Currently, the Yellowstone is falling while the Missouri is rising. The Indians say that the Yellowstone River is navigable for pirogues nearly to its source in the Rocky Mountains; it has many tributary streams, primarily on the southeast side, and its source is not far from the Missouri. The largest rivers that flow into it are Tongue River, which shares a source with the Platte River, and Bighorn River, which also shares a source with the Platte and Tongue Rivers. The current of the Yellowstone is said to be rapid near its mouth, but it is very gentle, and its water is a whitish color, much clearer of sediment than the Missouri. The land along this river is reported to be broken throughout its course and has a lot of wood. The area around its mouth is very nice, with the bottoms on either side wooded with cottonwood, ash, elm, etc. Near the riverbanks, the higher bottoms are covered with red berries, gooseberries, and rose bushes, interspersed with small open glades, and near the high ground, it's generally rich and open. Upon arriving at the forks, I saw a herd of buffalo cows and calves on a sandbar at the point. I instructed the men to kill the fattest cow and three or four calves, which they did, allowing the others to pass. The cows are poor, but the calves are great veal.
Capt Lewis joined me in the evening after takeing equal altitudes a little way up the YellowStone river the Countrey in every direction is plains except the moist bottoms of the river, which are covered with Some indifferent timber Such as Cotton wood Elm & Small ash, with different kind of Stubs & bushes in the forks about 1 mile from the point at which place the 2 rivers are near each other a butifull low leavel plain Commences, and extends up the Missourie & back, this plain is narrow at its commencement and widens as the Missouri bends north, and is bordered by an extencive wood land for many miles up the yellow Stone river, this low plain is not Subject to over flow, appear to be a few inches above high water mark and affords a butifull commanding Situation for a fort near the commencement of the Prarie, about ____ miles from the Point & ____ yards from the Missouri a Small lake is Situated, from this lake the plain rises gradually to a high butifull Countrey, the low Plain continues for Some distance up both rivers on the Yellow Stone it is wide & butifull opsd. the point on the S. Side is Some high timbered land, about 11/2 miles below on the Same Side a little distance from the water is an elivated plain—Several of the party was up the yellow Stone R Several miles, & informed that it meandered throught a butifull Countrey Joseph Fields discovered a large Creek falling into the Yellowstone River on the S E Side 8 miles up near which he Saw a big horn animal, he found in the Prarie the horn of one of those animals which was large and appeared to have laid Several years I Saw maney buffalow dead on the banks of the river in different places Some of them eaten by the white bears & wolves all except the Skin & bones, others entire, those animals either drounded in attempting to Cross on the ice dureing the winter or Swiming across to bluff banks where they Could not get out & too weak to return we Saw several in this Situation.
Capt. Lewis joined me in the evening after taking equal altitudes a little way up the Yellowstone River. The area in every direction is plains, except for the wet bottoms of the river, which are covered with some ordinary timber like cottonwood, elm, and small ash, along with various stubs and bushes. About a mile from where the two rivers are close together, a beautiful, low, level plain begins and stretches up the Missouri River and back. This plain is narrow at its start and widens as the Missouri bends north, bordered by extensive woodlands for many miles along the Yellowstone River. This low plain is not subject to flooding; it appears to be just a few inches above high water mark and offers a lovely commanding spot for a fort near the start of the prairie. About ___ miles from the point and ___ yards from the Missouri, a small lake is located. From this lake, the plain rises gradually to a high, beautiful area. The low plain continues for some distance up both rivers; on the Yellowstone, it is wide and lovely. Opposite the point on the south side is some high timbered land, and about 1.5 miles down on the same side, a bit away from the water, is an elevated plain. Several members of the party went up the Yellowstone River several miles and reported that it meanders through a beautiful area. Joseph Fields discovered a large creek flowing into the Yellowstone River on the southeast side, 8 miles up, near which he saw a big-horned animal. He found the horn of one of those animals in the prairie, which was large and seemed to have been there for several years. I saw many buffalo carcasses on the banks of the river in different spots, some of them eaten by bears and wolves, all except the skin and bones, while others were intact. Those animals either drowned while trying to cross on the ice during winter or swam to the steep banks where they couldn’t get out and were too weak to return. We saw several in this situation.
emence numbers of antelopes in the forks of the river, Buffalow & Elk & Deer is also plenty beaver is in every bend. I observe that the Magpie Goose duck & Eagle all have their nests in the Same neighbourhood, and it is not uncommon for the Magpie to build in a few rods of the eagle, the nests of this bird is built verry Strong with Sticks Covered verry thickly with one or more places through which they enter or escape, the Goose I make no doubt falls a pray to those vicious eagles
There are huge numbers of antelopes at the forks of the river, and buffalo, elk, and deer are plentiful. Beavers can be found in every bend. I've noticed that the magpie, goose, duck, and eagle all have their nests in the same area, and it’s not unusual for a magpie to nest just a few yards away from an eagle. The nests of this bird are built very strong, using sticks that are thickly covered, with one or more openings for entering or escaping. I have no doubt that the goose often becomes prey for those vicious eagles.
[Lewis, April 27, 1805]
Saturday April 27th 1805. Previous to our seting out this morning I made the following observations.
Saturday, April 27, 1805. Before we set out this morning, I made the following observations.
This morning I walked through the point formed by the junction of the rivers; the woodland extends about a mile, when the rivers approach each other within less than half a mile; here a beatifull level low plain commences and extends up both rivers for many miles, widening as the rivers recede from each other, and extending back half a mile to a plain about 12 feet higher than itself; the low plain appears to be a few inches higher than high water mark and of course will not be liable to be overflown; tho where it joins the high plain a part of the Missouri when at it's greatest hight, passes through a channel of 60 or 70 yards wide and falls into the yellowstone river. on the Missouri about 21/2 miles from the entrance of the yellowstone river, and between this high and low plain, a small lake is situated about 200 yards wide extending along the edge of the high plain parallel with the Missouri about one mile. on the point of the high plain at the lower extremity of this lake I think would be the most eligible site for an establishment. between this low plain and the Yellowstone river their is an extensive body of timbered land extending up the river for many miles. this site recommended is about 400 yards distant from the Missouri and about double that distance from the river yellowstone; from it the high plain, rising very gradually, extends back about three miles to the hills, and continues with the same width between these hills and the timbered land on the yellowstone river, up that stream, for seven or eight miles; and is one of the hadsomest plains I ever beheld. on the Missouri side the hills sircumscribe it's width, & at the distance of three miles up that river from this site, it is not more than 400 yards wide. Capt Clark thinks that the lower extremity of the low plane would be most eligible for this establishment; it is true that it is much nearer both rivers, and might answer very well, but I think it reather too low to venture a permanent establishment, particularly if built of brick or other durable materials, at any considerable expence; for so capricious, and versatile are these rivers, that it is difficult to say how long it will be, untill they direct the force of their currents against this narrow part of the low plain, which when they do, must shortly yeald to their influence; in such case a few years only would be necessary, for the annihilation of the plain, and with it the fortification.—I continued my walk on shore; at 11 A.M. the wind became very hard from N. W. insomuch that the perogues and canoes were unable either to proceede or pass the river to me; I was under the necessity therefore of shooting a goose and cooking it for my dinner. the wind abated about 4. P.M. and the party proceeded tho I could not conveniently join them untill night. altho game is very abundant and gentle, we only kill as much as is necessary for food. I believe that two good hunters could conveniently supply a regiment with provisions. for several days past we have observed a great number of buffaloe lying dead on the shore, some of them entire and others partly devoured by the wolves and bear. those anamals either drownded during the winter in attempting to pass the river on the ice during the winter or by swiming acrss at present to bluff banks which they are unable to ascend, and feeling themselves too weak to return remain and perish for the want of food; in this situation we met with several little parties of them.—beaver are very abundant, the party kill several of them every day. The Eagles, Magpies, and gees have their nests in trees adjacent to each other; the magpye particularly appears fond of building near the Eagle, as we scarcely see an Eagle's nest unaccompanyed with two or three Magpies nests within a short distance.—The bald Eagle are more abundant here than I ever observed them in any part of the country.
This morning, I walked through the point where the rivers meet; the woodland stretches about a mile, where the rivers get closer to each other to within less than half a mile. Here, a beautiful, flat low plain begins and extends up both rivers for many miles, widening as the rivers move apart, and reaching back half a mile to a plain about 12 feet higher than itself. The low plain seems to be a few inches above the high-water mark, so it won’t flood; although where it meets the high plain, part of the Missouri, at its highest, flows through a channel 60 or 70 yards wide and then joins the Yellowstone River, about 2.5 miles from the entrance of the Yellowstone River. Between this high and low plain, there’s a small lake about 200 yards wide that runs along the edge of the high plain, parallel to the Missouri for about a mile. At the end of this lake on the high plain, I think would be the best spot for a settlement. Between this low plain and the Yellowstone River, there is a vast expanse of timbered land stretching up the river for many miles. The recommended site is about 400 yards from the Missouri and about twice that distance from the Yellowstone River; from here, the high plain rises gently, extending back about three miles to the hills, and continues with the same width between these hills and the timbered land along the Yellowstone for seven or eight miles, making it one of the prettiest plains I have ever seen. On the Missouri side, the hills confine its width, and three miles up that river from this site, it’s no more than 400 yards wide. Captain Clark believes the lower end of the low plain would be better for this settlement; it’s true that it’s much closer to both rivers and might work well, but I think it’s a bit too low to risk a permanent establishment, especially if built of brick or other durable materials at a considerable expense. These rivers are so unpredictable and changeable that it’s hard to say how long it will be until they direct their currents against this narrow part of the low plain, which, when they do, will soon yield to their influence; in that case, it wouldn’t take many years for the plain to be destroyed, and with it, the fortification. I continued my walk along the shore; at 11 A.M., the wind picked up strongly from the northwest, making it impossible for the boats and canoes to get to me; therefore, I had to shoot a goose and cook it for my dinner. The wind died down around 4 P.M., and the group moved on, though I couldn’t conveniently join them until night. Even though game is very plentiful and calm, we only kill as much as we need for food. I believe that two good hunters could easily supply a regiment with provisions. For several days, we have noticed many dead buffalo on the shore, some intact and others partly eaten by wolves and bears. These animals either drowned trying to cross the river on ice during winter or by swimming across to the steep banks they can’t climb, feeling too weak to return, they stay and die from hunger; in this situation, we encountered several small groups of them. Beavers are very plentiful, and the group kills several every day. Eagles, magpies, and geese have their nests in trees close to one another; the magpie especially seems to love building near the eagle, as we hardly ever see an eagle’s nest without two or three magpie nests nearby. The bald eagles are more abundant here than I’ve ever noticed them in any other part of the country.
[Clark, April 27, 1805]
27th of April Satturday 1805 after take the azmuth of the Sun & brackfasting we Set out wind moderate & a head, at 11 oClock the wind rose and continued to blow verry hard a head from the N. W. untill 4 oClock P M, which blew the Sand off the Points in Such clouds as almost Covered us on the opposit bank, at 4 I Set out from my unpleasent Situation and proceeded on, Capt. Lewis walked on Shore in the Point to examine & view the Countrey and could not get to the boats untill night, Saw great numbers of Goats or antilopes, Elk, Swan Gees & Ducks, no buffalow to day I Saw Several beaver and much Sign, I Shot one in the head which imediately Sunk, altho the game of different kinds are in abundance we Kill nothing but what we can make
April 27th, Saturday, 1805. After taking the azimuth of the Sun and having breakfast, we set out with a moderate headwind. At 11 o'clock, the wind picked up and continued to blow very hard from the northwest until 4 PM. It blew the sand off the points in such clouds that they almost covered us on the opposite bank. At 4, I left my uncomfortable position and moved on. Captain Lewis walked along the shore at the point to explore and survey the country and couldn't get to the boats until night. We saw large numbers of goats or antelopes, elk, swan geese, and ducks; however, no buffalo today. I spotted several beavers and their signs. I shot one in the head, which immediately sank. Even though there is plenty of game of different kinds, we only kill what we can use.
[Lewis, April 28, 1805]
Sunday April 28th 1805. Set out this morning at an early hour; the wind was favourable and we employed our sails to advantage. Capt Clark walked on shore this morning, and I proceeded with the party. the country through which we passed today is open as usual and very broken on both sides near the river hills, the bottoms are level fertile and partially covered with timber. the hills and bluffs exhibit their usual mineral appearances, some birnt hills but no appearance of Pumicestone; coal is in great abundance and the salts still increase in quantity; the banks of the river and sandbars are incrusted with it in many places and appear perfectly white as if covered with snow or frost.—the woods are now green, tho the plains and meadows appear to abate of the verdure those below exhibited some days past. we past three small runs today. two falling in on the Stard. and one on the Lard. side, they are but small afford but little water and head a few miles back in the hills. we saw great quantities of game today; consisting of the common and mule deer, Elk, Buffaloe, and Antelopes; also four brown bear, one of which was fired on and wounded by one of the party but we did not get it; the beaver have cut great quantities of timber; saw a tree nearly 3 feet in diameter that had been felled by them. Capt. Clark in the course of his walk killed a deer and a goose; & saw three black bear; he thinks the bottoms are not so wide as they have been for some days past.
Sunday, April 28th, 1805. We set out early this morning; the wind was in our favor and we made good use of our sails. Captain Clark went onshore this morning, while I continued with the rest of the group. The area we traveled through today was open as usual and very hilly on both sides near the river; the floodplains are level, fertile, and partly covered with trees. The hills and bluffs showed their typical mineral features, some burned hills but no sign of pumice stone; coal is plentiful, and the amount of salts is still increasing. The riverbanks and sandbars are coated with it in many spots and look completely white, as if covered with snow or frost. The woods are now green, although the plains and meadows seem to have less greenery than they did a few days ago. We passed three small streams today, two flowing into the starboard side and one on the port side; they are quite small, providing little water and originating a few miles back in the hills. We saw a lot of game today, including common and mule deer, elk, buffalo, and antelope; also encountered four brown bears, one of which was shot and injured by a member of our party, but we didn't manage to catch it. The beavers have cut down a lot of timber; we saw a tree nearly 3 feet in diameter that they had felled. Captain Clark, during his walk, killed a deer and a goose, and he spotted three black bears; he thinks the floodplains are not as wide as they have been for the past few days.
[Clark, April 28, 1805]
28th of April Sunday 1805 a fine day river falling, wind favourable from the S. E. and moderate, I walked on Shore to view the Countrey, from the top of the high hills, I beheld a broken & open Countrey on both Sides, near the river Some verry handsom low plains, I killd. a Deer & a goose, Saw three black bear great numbers of Elk antelopes & 2 Gangues of Buffalow, the hills & Bluffs Shew the Straturs of Coal, and burnt appearances in maney places, in and about them I could find no appearance of Pumice Stone, the wood land have a green appearance, the Plains do not look So green as below, The bottoms are not So wide this afternoon as below Saw four bear this evening, one of the men Shot at one of them. The Antilopes are nearly red, on that part which is Subject to change i e the Sides & 2/3 of the back from the head, the other part as white as Snow, 2 Small runs fall in on the S. Side and one this evening on the Lard Side those runs head at a fiew miles in the hills and discharge but little water, the Bluffs in this part as also below Shew different Straturs of Coal or carbonated wood, and Coloured earth, such as dark brown, yellow a lightish brown, & a dark red &c.
28th of April, Sunday, 1805 - a nice day with the river receding, a gentle breeze coming from the southeast. I walked along the shore to explore the area. From the top of the high hills, I saw a fragmented and open landscape on both sides, with some very nice low plains near the river. I killed a deer and a goose, and spotted three black bears, along with a large number of elk, antelopes, and two groups of buffalo. The hills and bluffs showed layers of coal and signs of burning in many places. I couldn't find any signs of pumice stone. The woodland had a lush appearance, but the plains didn't look as green as the lower areas. The floodplains weren't as wide this afternoon as they were further down. I saw four bears this evening; one of the men shot at one of them. The antelopes were almost red on the parts that are subject to change, meaning the sides and two-thirds of the back from the head, while the other part was as white as snow. Two small streams flow into the south side, and one this evening on the left side. These streams originate a few miles up in the hills and carry very little water. The bluffs in this area, as well as further down, showed different layers of coal or carbonized wood, along with colored earth, such as dark brown, yellow, a light brown, and dark red, etc.
[Lewis, April 29, 1805]
Monday April 29th 1805. Set out this morning at the usual hour; the wind was moderate; I walked on shore with one man. about 8 A.M. we fell in with two brown or yellow bear; both of which we wounded; one of them made his escape, the other after my firing on him pursued me seventy or eighty yards, but fortunately had been so badly wounded that he was unable to pursue so closely as to prevent my charging my gun; we again repeated our fir and killed him. it was a male not fully grown, we estimated his weight at 300 lbs. not having the means of ascertaining it precisely. The legs of this bear are somewhat longer than those of the black, as are it's tallons and tusks incomparably larger and longer. the testicles, which in the black bear are placed pretty well back between the thyes and contained in one pouch like those of the dog and most quadrupeds, are in the yellow or brown bear placed much further forward, and are suspended in seperate pouches from two to four inches asunder; it's colour is yellowish brown, the eyes small, black, and piercing; the front of the fore legs near the feet is usually black; the fur is finer thicker and deeper than that of the black bear. these are all the particulars in which this anamal appeared to me to differ from the black bear; it is a much more furious and formidable anamal, and will frequently pursue the hunter when wounded. it is asstonishing to see the wounds they will bear before they can be put to death. the Indians may well fear this anamal equiped as they generally are with their bows and arrows or indifferent fuzees, but in the hands of skillfull riflemen they are by no means as formidable or dangerous as they have been represented. game is still very abundant we can scarcely cast our eyes in any direction without percieving deer Elk Buffaloe or Antelopes. The quantity of wolves appear to increase in the same proportion; they generally hunt in parties of six eight or ten; they kill a great number of the Antelopes at this season; the Antelopes are yet meagre and the females are big with young; the wolves take them most generally in attempting to swim the river; in this manner my dog caught one drowned it and brought it on shore; they are but clumsey swimers, tho on land when in good order, they are extreemly fleet and dureable. we have frequently seen the wolves in pursuit of the Antelope in the plains; they appear to decoy a single one from a flock, and then pursue it, alturnately relieving each other untill they take it. on joining Capt Clark he informed me that he had seen a female and faun of the bighorned anamal; that they ran for some distance with great aparent ease along the side of the river bluff where it was almost perpendicular; two of the party fired on them while in motion without effect. we took the flesh of the bear on board and proceeded. Capt. Clark walked on shore this evening, killed a deer, and saw several of the bighorned anamals. there is more appearance of coal today than we have yet seen, the stratas are 6 feet thick in some instances; the earth has been birnt in many places, and always appears in stratas on the same level with the stratas of coal. we came too this evening in the mouth of a little river, which falls in on the Stard. side. This stream is about 50 yards wide from bank to bank; the water occupyes about 15 yards. the banks are of earth only, abrupt, tho not high—the bed, is of mud principally. Capt Clark, who was up this streeam about three miles, informed me that it continued about the same width, that it's current was gentle and it appeared navigable for perogus it meanders through an extensive, fertile, and beautifull vally as far as could bee seen about N. 30°W. there was but one solitary tree to be seen on the banks of this river after it left the bottom of the Missouri. the water of this river is clear, with a brownish yelow tint. here the highlands receede from the Missouri, leaving the vally formed by the river from seven to eight miles wide, and reather lower then usual.- This stream my friend Capt. C. named Marthas river
Monday, April 29, 1805. Set out this morning at the usual time; the wind was moderate. I walked on shore with one man. Around 8 A.M., we encountered two brown or yellow bears; we wounded both of them. One escaped, while the other, after I shot at him, chased me for seventy or eighty yards, but fortunately, he had been so badly injured that he couldn't follow closely enough to stop me from reloading my gun. We shot again and killed him. It was a male, not fully grown, and we estimated his weight to be around 300 lbs, although we couldn't measure it precisely. The legs of this bear are somewhat longer than those of the black bear, and its claws and tusks are much larger and longer. The testicles, which in the black bear are located further back between the thighs and contained in one pouch like those of a dog and most quadrupeds, are in the yellow or brown bear placed much further forward, suspended in separate pouches about two to four inches apart. Its color is yellowish brown, with small, black, piercing eyes. The front of the forelegs near the feet is usually black; the fur is finer, thicker, and denser than that of the black bear. These are all the differences I noticed between this animal and the black bear; it is much more aggressive and formidable, often pursuing hunters when wounded. It’s astonishing how much injury they can endure before being killed. The Indians may well fear this animal, usually armed with bows and arrows or poor firearms, but in the hands of skilled riflemen, they are not nearly as formidable or dangerous as they’re made out to be. Game is still very abundant; we can barely look in any direction without spotting deer, elk, buffalo, or antelope. The number of wolves seems to be increasing at the same rate; they usually hunt in groups of six, eight, or ten and kill many antelopes this season. The antelopes are still skinny, and the females are pregnant; the wolves generally catch them while trying to swim across the river. In one case, my dog caught one, drowned it, and brought it ashore. Wolves are clumsy swimmers, but on land, they are extremely fast and durable. We have often seen wolves chasing antelopes on the plains; they seem to lure a single one away from the herd and then pursue it, taking turns until they catch it. When I joined Captain Clark, he told me he had seen a female and a fawn of the bighorned animal; they ran for some distance effortlessly along the nearly vertical river bluff. Two members of our party shot at them while they were moving, but it was ineffective. We took the bear's meat aboard and continued. Captain Clark walked on shore this evening, killed a deer, and saw several bighorned animals. There were more signs of coal today than we had seen before; the layers are up to six feet thick in some areas. The earth has been burned in many places and always appears in layers at the same level as the coal strata. We stopped this evening at the mouth of a small river that flows into the starboard side. This stream is about 50 yards wide from bank to bank; the water takes up about 15 yards of that space. The banks are made of earth only, steep but not high—the bed is mostly mud. Captain Clark, who traveled up this stream about three miles, reported that it stayed about the same width, had a gentle current, and seemed navigable for canoes as it meanders through a wide, fertile, and beautiful valley as far as he could see about N. 30°W. There was only one solitary tree visible on the banks of this river after it left the Missouri's floodplain. The water of this river is clear, with a brownish-yellow tint. Here, the highlands recede from the Missouri, leaving a valley formed by the river about seven to eight miles wide and lower than usual. This stream, my friend Captain C., named Martha's River.
[Clark, April 29, 1805]
29th of April Monday 1805 Set out this morning at the usial hour. the wind is moderate & from the N E had not proceeded far eer we Saw a female & her faun of the Bighorn animal on the top of a Bluff lying, the noise we made allarmed them and they came down on the Side of the bluff which had but little Slope being nearly purpindicular, I directed two men to kill those anamals, one went on the top and the other man near the water they had two Shots at the doe while in motion without effect, Those animals run & Skiped about with great ease on this declivity & appeared to prefur it to the leavel bottom or plain. Capt Lewis & one man walkd on Shore and he killed a yellow Bear & the man with him wounded one other, after getting the flesh of the bear on bord which was not far from the place we brackfast, we proceeded on Saw 4 gangus of buffalow and great numbers of Antelopes in every direction also Saw Elk and Several wolves, I walked on Shore in the evening & killed a Deer which was So meager as to be unfit for use The hills Contain more Coal, and has a greater appearance of being burnt that below, the burnt parts appear on a parrilel with the Stratiums of Coal, we Came too in the mouth of a Little river on the S. S. which is about 50 or 60 yards from bank to bank, I was up this Stream 3 miles it continues its width and glides with a gentle Current, its water is about 15 yards wide at this time, and appears to be navagable for Canoes &c. it meanders through a butifull & extencive vallie as far as can be Seen about N 30° W. I saw only a Single tree in this fertile vallie The water of the River is clear of a yellowish Colour, we call this river Martheys river in honor to the Selebrated M. F
29th of April Monday 1805 Set out this morning at the usual hour. The wind is moderate and coming from the northeast. We hadn't gone far when we saw a female bighorn and her faun on top of a bluff lying down. The noise we made startled them, and they moved down the bluff, which was nearly vertical. I directed two men to shoot those animals; one went to the top, and the other man stayed near the water. They took two shots at the doe while she was moving, but missed. Those animals ran and bounded effortlessly down the slope and seemed to prefer it to the flat bottom or plain. Capt. Lewis and one man walked on shore, and he killed a yellow bear, while the man with him wounded another. After getting the bear's meat on board, which wasn’t far from where we had breakfast, we continued on and saw four herds of buffalo and a lot of antelopes in every direction. We also saw elk and several wolves. I walked on shore in the evening and killed a deer, which was so lean that it was unfit for use. The hills contain more coal and look more burnt than those below. The burnt areas appear parallel to the coal strata. We stopped at the mouth of a little river on the south side, which is about 50 or 60 yards wide. I went up this stream 3 miles, and it maintained its width, flowing with a gentle current. Its water is about 15 yards wide right now and looks navigable for canoes, etc. It meanders through a beautiful and extensive valley as far as the eye can see, about N 30° W. I saw only a single tree in this fertile valley. The water of the river is clear with a yellowish tint, and we named this river Marthey's River in honor of the celebrated M. F.
Here the high land widen from five to Eight miles and much lower than below, Saw Several of the big horn animals this evening. The Wolves distroy great numbers of the antilopes by decoying those animals Singularly out in the plains and prosueing them alternetly, those antelopes are Curious and will approach any thing which appears in motion near them &c.
Here, the high land expands from five to eight miles and is much lower than below. I saw several of the big horn animals this evening. The wolves destroy a large number of the antelopes by luring those animals out onto the plains and chasing them alternately. Those antelopes are curious and will approach anything that seems to be moving near them, etc.
[Lewis, April 30, 1805]
Tuesday April 30th 1805. Set out at sunrise. the wind blew hard all last night, and continued to blow pretty hard all day, but not so much, as to compell us to ly by. the country as usual is bare of timber; the river bottoms are level and fertile and extensive, but possess but little timber and that of an indifferent quality even of it's kind; principally low cottonwood, either too small for building, or for plank or broken and dead at top and unsound in the center of the trunk. saw great quantities of game as usual. Capt. Clark walked on shore the greater part of the day, past some old Indian lodges built of drift wood; they appear to be of antient date and not recently inhabited. I walked on shore this evening and killed a buck Elk, in tolerable order; it appeared to me to be the largest I had seen, and was therefore induced to measure it; found it five feet three inches from the point of the hoof, to the top of the sholders; the leg and hoof being placed as nearly as possible in the same position they would have been had the anamal been standing.
Tuesday, April 30th, 1805. We set out at sunrise. The wind blew hard all last night and continued to blow pretty hard all day, but not so much that we had to stop. The landscape, as usual, is bare of trees; the river bottoms are flat, fertile, and extensive, but have very little timber, and what little there is is of poor quality; mainly low cottonwood that is either too small for building, or broken and dead at the top and unsound in the center of the trunk. We saw a lot of game as usual. Capt. Clark walked along the shore for most of the day, passing some old Indian lodges made of driftwood; they look ancient and don’t seem to have been inhabited recently. I walked on shore this evening and shot a buck elk, which was in decent condition; it seemed to be the largest I had seen, so I decided to measure it. It measured five feet three inches from the tip of the hoof to the top of the shoulders, with the leg and hoof positioned as closely as possible to how they would have been if the animal were standing.
[Clark, April 30, 1805]
30th of April Tuesday 1805 The wind blew hard from the N E all last night, we Set out at Sunrise the wind blew hard the greater part of the day and part of the time favourable, we did not lie by to day on account of the wind I walked on Shore to day our interpreter & his Squar followed, in my walk the Squar found & brought me a bush Something like the Current, which She Said bore a delicious froot and that great quantites grew on the Rocky Mountains, this Srub was in bloom has a yellow flower with a deep Cup, the froot when ripe is yellow and hangs in bunches like Cheries, Some of those berries yet remained on the bushes. The bottoms above the mouth of the last river is extensive level & fertile and covered with indifferent timber in the points, the up land appear to rise gradually, I saw Great numbers of Antelopes, also Scattering Buffalow, Elk, Deer, wolves, Gees, ducks & Grows—I Killed 2 Gees which we dined on to day Capt Lewis walked on Shore and killed an elk this evening, and we Came too & camped on the S. S the Countrey on both Sides have a butifull appearance.
30th of April, Tuesday, 1805 The wind blew hard from the northeast all night. We set out at sunrise, and the wind was strong for most of the day, with some favorable moments. We didn't stop today because of the wind. I walked on shore, accompanied by our interpreter and his wife. During my walk, she found and brought me a bush that looked somewhat like currant, claiming it produced delicious fruit that grew in large quantities on the Rocky Mountains. This shrub was in bloom, with yellow flowers and a deep cup. The ripe fruit is yellow and hangs in bunches like cherries, and some of those berries still remained on the bushes. The area above the mouth of the last river is vast, flat, and fertile, with decent timber along the points. The uplands appear to rise gradually. I saw a large number of antelopes, as well as scattered buffalo, elk, deer, wolves, geese, ducks, and crows. I shot two geese, which we had for dinner today. Captain Lewis walked on shore and killed an elk this evening, and we set up camp on the south side, where the landscape on both sides has a beautiful appearance.
[Lewis, May 1, 1805]
Wednesday May 1st 1805. Set out this morning at an early, the wind being favourable we used our sales which carried us on at a good pace untill about 12 OCk. when the wind became so high that the small canoes were unable to proceed one of them which seperated from us just befor the wind became so violent, is now lying on the opposite side of the river, being unable to rejoin us in consequence of the waves, which during those gusts run several feet high. we came too on the Lard. shore in a handsome bottom well stocked with cottonwood timber; here the wind compelled us to spend the ballance of the day. we sent out some hunters who killed a buffaloe, an Elk, a goat and two beaver. game is now abundant. the country appears much more pleasant and fertile than that we have passed for several days; the hills are lower, the bottoms wider, and better stocked with timber, which consists principally of cottonwood, not however of large size; the under-growth willow on the verge of the river and sandbars, rose bushes, red willow and the broad leafed willow in the bottom lands; the high country on either side of the river is one vast plain, intirely destitute of timber, but is apparently fertile, consisting of a dark rich mellow looking lome. John Shields sick today with the rheumatism. Shannon killed a bird of the plover kind. weight one pound. it measured from the tip of the toe, to the extremity of the beak, 1 foot 10 Inches; from tip to tip of wings when extended 2 F. 5 I.; Beak 3 5/8 inches; tale 3 1/8 inches; leg and toe 10 Ins.—the eye black, piercing, prominent and moderately large. the legs are Hat thin, slightly imbricated and of a pale sky blue colour, being covered with feathers as far as the mustle extends down it, which is about half it's length. it has four toes on each foot, three of which, are connected by a web, the fourth is small and placed at the heel about the 1/8 of an inch up the leg. the nails are black and short, that of the middle toe is extreemly singular, consisting of two nails the one laping on or overlaying the other, the upper one somewhat the longest and sharpest. the tale contains eleven feathers of equal length, & of a bluish white colour. the boddy and underside of the wings, except the large feathers of the 1st & 2cd joints of the same, are white; as are also the feathers of the upper part of the 4th joint of the wing and part of those of the 3rd adjacent thereto, the large feathers of the 1st or pinion and the 2cd joint are black; a part of the larger feathers of the 3rd joint on the upper side and all the small feathers which cover the upper part of the wings are black, as are also the tuft of long feathers on each side of the body above the joining of the wing, leaving however a stripe of white betwen them on the back. the head and neck are shaped much like the grey plover, and are of a light brickdust brown; the beak is black and flat, largest where it joins the head, and from thence becoming thiner and tapering to a very sharp point, the upper chap being 1/8 of an inch the longest turns down at the point and forms a little hook. the nostrils, which commence near the head are long, narrow, connected, and parallel with the beak; the beak is much curved, the curvature being upwards in stead of downwards as is common with most birds; the substance of the beak precisely resembles whalebone at a little distance, and is quite as flexable as that substance their note resembles that of the grey plover, tho is reather louder and more varied, their habits appear also to be the same, with this difference; that it sometimes rests on the water and swims which I do not recollect having seen the plover do. this bird which I shall henceforth stile the Missouri plover, generally feeds about the shallow bars of the river; to collect it's food which consists of ____, it immerces it's beak in the water and throws it's head and beak from side to side at every step it takes.
Wednesday, May 1st, 1805. We set out early this morning, and with the wind at our backs, we made good speed until around 12 o'clock. At that point, the wind picked up so much that the small canoes couldn't go on. One of the canoes that separated from us just before the wind got violent is now stuck on the opposite side of the river, unable to rejoin us because of the high waves caused by the gusts. We docked on the left bank in a nice area well-filled with cottonwood timber; here, the wind forced us to stay for the rest of the day. We sent out some hunters who managed to kill a buffalo, an elk, a goat, and two beavers. Game is now plentiful. The country looks much more pleasant and fertile than what we’ve seen for the last few days; the hills are lower, the bottoms wider, and better stocked with timber, mainly cottonwood, though not very large. The underbrush includes willows along the river and sandbars, rose bushes, red willows, and broadleaf willows in the lowlands. The high ground on either side of the river is a vast plain, completely lacking in timber, but it looks fertile, made up of dark, rich-looking loam. John Shields is sick today with rheumatism. Shannon shot a bird resembling a plover, weighing one pound. It measured 1 foot 10 inches from the tip of the toe to the end of the beak; with wings spread, it was 2 feet 5 inches; the beak was 3 5/8 inches; the tail was 3 1/8 inches, and the leg and toe were 10 inches—its eye was black, sharp, prominent, and moderately large. The legs are flat, thin, slightly overlapping, and pale sky blue, covered with feathers up to about half their length. It has four toes on each foot, three of which are webbed together, and the fourth is small and placed at the heel about 1/8 of an inch up the leg. The nails are black and short; the middle toe has an unusual feature, having two overlapping nails, with the upper one being the longest and sharpest. The tail has eleven feathers of equal length, and a bluish-white color. The body and the underside of the wings, except for the large feathers of the first and second joints, are white; the feathers on the upper part of the fourth wing joint and part of those adjacent on the third are white too, while the large feathers of the first and second joints are black. The larger feathers on the upper side of the third joint and all the small feathers covering the upper parts of the wings are also black, as are the tufts of long feathers on each side of the body above where the wing joins, although a stripe of white runs between them on the back. The head and neck resemble the grey plover and are of a light brick dust brown; the beak is black and flat, widest at the base where it connects to the head, tapering to a sharp point. The upper jaw, which is 1/8 of an inch longer, curves down at the tip and forms a small hook. The nostrils are long, narrow, connected, and run parallel with the beak; the beak itself curves upwards rather than downwards as is common with most birds. It looks a bit like whalebone from a distance and is as flexible as that substance. Its call is similar to the grey plover, but louder and more varied, and it shares similar habits, with the exception that it sometimes rests on the water and swims, which I don't recall seeing the plover do. This bird, which I will now refer to as the Missouri plover, usually feeds around the shallow bars of the river; to gather food, which consists of ____, it dips its beak into the water and moves its head and beak side to side with each step it takes.
[Clark, May 1, 1805]
May the 1st Wednesday 1805 We Set out at Sun rise under a Stiff Breeze from the East, the morning Cool & Cloudy. one man J. Shields Sick with rhumetism—one of the men (Shannon) Shot a Gull or pleaver, which is about the Size of an Indian hen, with a Sharp pointed bill turning up & 4 Inches long, the head and neck of a light brown, the breast, the underfeathers of the 2nd and 3d joint of the wings, the Short feathers on the upper part of the 3rd joint of the wings, down the back the rump & tail white. The large feathers of the 1st joints of the wing the upper feathers of the 2d joints of the wings, on the body on the joints of the wing and the bill is black.—the legs long and of a Skie blue. The feet webed &c. This fowl may be properly Stiled the Missouri Pleaver—the wind became verry Hard and we put too on the L. Side, as the wind Continued with Some degree of violence and the waves too high for the Canoes we were obliged to Stay all day
May 1st, Wednesday, 1805. We set out at sunrise under a strong breeze coming from the east. The morning was cool and cloudy. One man, J. Shields, was sick with rheumatism. One of the men (Shannon) shot a gull, which is about the size of an Indian hen, with a sharp pointed bill that curves upward and is 4 inches long. The head and neck are light brown, while the breast, the underfeathers of the second and third wing joints, the short feathers on the upper part of the third wing joint, along the back, the rump, and the tail are white. The large feathers of the first wing joints, the upper feathers of the second wing joints, the body, and the wing joints are black. The legs are long and sky blue. The feet are webbed, etc. This bird can be rightly called the Missouri Pleaver. The wind grew very strong, and we pulled to the left side since the wind continued with some intensity and the waves were too high for the canoes, forcing us to stay all day.
[Lewis, May 1, 1805]
May 1st 1805. Shannon killed a bird of the plover kind the weight one pound.—eye black percing and prominent
May 1, 1805. Shannon killed a bird of the plover type weighing one pound. Its eyes were black, piercing, and prominent.
Measure F. Inchs from the tip of the toe to the extremity of the beak 1 10 from tip to tip of wing when extended 2 5 length of beak 3 5/8 length of tale 3 1/8 length of leg and toe 10
Measure F. Inches from the tip of the toe to the end of the beak 1 10 from tip to tip of wing when extended 2 5 length of beak 3 5/8 length of tail 3 1/8 length of leg and toe 10
the legs are flat, of pale skye blue colour and but slightly imbricated. the second joint, as low as the mustle extends is covered with feathers which is about half it's length. it has three toes on a foot connected by a web. there is also a small toe on each foot placed about the eighth of an inch up the leg behind. the nails are black and short and those of the middle toes ar singular-there being two nails on each the one above the other the upper one the longest and sharpest.- the tale contains eleven feathers of the same length of a bluish white colour. the body and under side of the wings except the large feathers of the 1 & 2cd joints of the wings are white, as are also the feathers of the upper part of the 4th joint of the wing. and some of those of the 3rd adjoining.—the large feathers of the pinion or first (joint) & the second joint are black; a part of the larger feathers of the third joint on the upper side and all the smaller feathers which cover the upper part of these joints ar black; as are also the tuft of long feathers on each side of the body above the joining of the wing, leaving however a stripe of white between them on the back. the head and neck are shaped much like the grey plover, and is a light brickdust brown. the beak is black and flat, largest where it joins the head and from thence tapering every way gradually to a very sharp point the upper beak being 1/8 of an inch the longest turning down at the point. the nostrils are parrallal with the beak and are long narrow and connected. the beak is curvated and invirted; the Curvature being upwards in stead of downwards as those of most birds are—the substance of the beak is as flexable as whalebone and at a little distance precisely resembles that substance. their note is like that of the common whistling or grey plover tho reather louder, and more varied, and their habits are the same with that bird so far as I have been enabled to learn, with this difference however that this bird sometimes lights in the water and swims.—it generally feads about the shallow bars of the river; to collect it's food, it immerces it's beak in the water, and thows it's head and beak from side to side at every step it takes.
The legs are flat, a pale sky blue color, and only slightly overlapping. The second joint, down to where the muscle extends, is covered with feathers that are about half its length. It has three webbed toes on each foot, along with a small toe on each foot placed about an eighth of an inch up the leg behind. The nails are short and black, and the middle toes have a unique feature—two nails each, stacked on top of one another, with the upper one being the longest and sharpest. The tail has eleven feathers of the same length, a bluish-white color. The body and underside of the wings, except for the large feathers of the first and second joints, are white, as are some feathers of the upper part of the fourth joint and some of those on the adjoining third joint. The large feathers of the pinion or first joint and the second joint are black; a portion of the larger feathers of the third joint on the upper side and all the smaller feathers covering the upper part of these joints are also black. The tuft of long feathers on each side of the body above where the wing joins is black, leaving a stripe of white between them on the back. The head and neck resemble that of the grey plover and are light brick-dust brown. The beak is black and flat, widest where it connects to the head, tapering off gradually to a very sharp point—the upper beak is one-eighth of an inch long and curves downward at the tip. The nostrils are parallel to the beak, long, narrow, and connected. The beak is curved and inverted; the curve goes upward instead of downward like most birds. The material of the beak is as flexible as whalebone and looks just like it from a distance. Their call is similar to that of the common whistling or grey plover but somewhat louder and more varied. Their behavior aligns with that bird as far as I’ve been able to learn, with the exception that this bird sometimes lands in the water and swims. It generally feeds around the shallow bars of the river; to gather its food, it dips its beak into the water and moves its head and beak from side to side with each step it takes.
[Lewis, May 2, 1805]
Thursday May 2ed 1805 The wind continued violent all night nor did it abate much of it's violence this morning, when at daylight it was attended with snow which continued to fall untill about 10 A.M. being about one inch deep, it formed a singular contrast with the vegitation which was considerably advanced. some flowers had put forth in the plains, and the leaves of the cottonwood were as large as a dollar. sent out some hunters who killed 2 deer 3 Elk and several buffaloe; on our way this evening we also shot three beaver along the shore; these anamals in consequence of not being hunted are extreemly gentle, where they are hunted they never leave their lodges in the day, the flesh of the beaver is esteemed a delecacy among us; I think the tale a most delicious morsal, when boiled it resembles in flavor the fresh tongues and sounds of the codfish, and is usually sufficiently large to afford a plentifull meal for two men. Joseph Fields one of the hunters who was out today found several yards of scarlet cloth which had been suspended on the bough of a tree near an old indian hunting camp, where it had been left as a sacrefice to the deity by the indians, probably of the Assinniboin nation, it being a custom with them as well as all the nations inhabiting the waters of the Missouri so far as they are known to us, to offer or sacrefice in this manner to the deity watever they may be possessed off which they think most acceptable to him, and very honestly making their own feelings the test of those of the deity offer him the article which they most prize themselves. this being the most usual method of weshiping the great sperit as they term the deity, is practiced on interesting occasions, or to produce the happy eventuation of the important occurrances incident to human nature, such as relief from hungar or mallady, protection from their enemies or the delivering them into their hands, and with such as cultivate, to prevent the river's overflowing and distroying their crops &c. screfices of a similar kind are also made to the deceased by their friends and relatives. the are was very piercing this evening the water friezed on the oars as they rowed. the wind dying at 5 P.M. we set out.
Thursday, May 2, 1805 The wind was strong all night and didn’t let up much this morning. At dawn, it was snowing, which continued until about 10 A.M., leaving about an inch on the ground, creating a strange contrast with the advanced vegetation. Some flowers were blooming in the plains, and the leaves of the cottonwood were as big as a dollar. I sent out some hunters who killed 2 deer, 3 elk, and several buffalo; on our way this evening, we also shot three beavers along the shore. These animals, because they haven't been hunted, are extremely gentle. Where they are hunted, they never leave their lodges during the day. The flesh of the beaver is considered a delicacy among us; I find the tail to be a delicious treat. When boiled, it tastes like fresh tongues and sounds of codfish and is usually large enough to provide a hearty meal for two men. Joseph Fields, one of the hunters, found several yards of scarlet cloth hanging on a tree branch near an old Indian hunting camp, where it had been left as a sacrifice to the deity by the Indians, probably from the Assinniboin nation. It’s customary for them, as well as other nations living along the Missouri River, to offer sacrifices to the deity using items they think are most pleasing to him, often taking their own feelings as a guide. This is the most common way to worship the great spirit, as they refer to the deity, practiced during significant occasions or to secure a favorable outcome for important human events, such as relief from hunger or illness, protection from enemies, or capturing them. For those who farm, they also wish to prevent the river from flooding and destroying their crops, and similar sacrifices are made to the deceased by their friends and relatives. The air was very cold this evening, and the water froze on the oars as we rowed. The wind calmed down at 5 P.M., and we set out.
every thing which is incomprehensible to the indians they call big medicine, and is the opperation of the presnts and power of the great sperit. this morning one of the men shot the indian dog that had followed us for several days, he would steal their cooked provision.
everything that is hard for the Indians to understand, they call big medicine, and it’s the work of the gifts and power of the great spirit. this morning, one of the men shot the Indian dog that had been following us for several days; it would steal their cooked food.
[Clark, May 2, 1805]
May 2nd Thursday 1805 The wind blew verry hard all the last night, this morning about Sunrise began to Snow, (The Thermomtr. at 28 abov o) and Continued untill about 10 oClock, at which time it Seased, the wind Continued hard untill about 2 P.M. the Snow which fell to day was about 1 In deep, a verry extroadernaley Climate, to behold the trees Green & flowers Spred on the plain, & Snow an inch deep. we Set out about 3 oClock and proceeded on about five 1/2 miles and encamped on the Std Side, the evening verry cold, Ice freesing to the Ores, I Shot a large beaver & Drewyer three in walking on the bank, the flesh of those animals the party is fond of eating &c.
May 2nd, Thursday, 1805 The wind blew very hard all night. This morning, around sunrise, it started to snow (the thermometer was at 28 degrees Fahrenheit) and continued until about 10 o'clock, when it stopped. The wind remained strong until about 2 PM. The snow that fell today was about an inch deep, creating a really strange climate, with green trees and flowers spread across the plain alongside an inch of snow. We set out around 3 o'clock and traveled about five and a half miles, then camped on the south side. The evening was very cold, and ice was forming on the ores. I shot a large beaver, and Drewyer saw three while walking along the bank. The party enjoys eating the flesh of these animals, etc.
[Lewis, May 3, 1805]
Friday May 3rd 1805. The morning being very could we did not set out as early as usual; ice formed on a kettle of water 1/4 of an inch thick. the snow has melted generally in the bottoms, but the hills still remain covered. on the lard side at the distance of 2 miles we passed a curious collection of bushes which had been tyed up in the form of a faciene and standing on end in the open bottom it appeared to be about 30 feet high and ten or twelve feet in diameter, this we supposed to have been placed there by the Indians, as a sacrefice for some purpose. The wind continued to blow hard from the West but not so strong as to compel us to ly by. Capt. Clark walked on shore and killed an Elk which he caused to be butched by the time I arrived with the party, here we halted and dined being about 12 OCk. our usual time of halting for that purpose. after dinner Capt. Clark pursued his walk, while I continued with the party, it being a rule which we had established, never to be absent at the same time from the party. the plains or high lands are much less elivated than they were, not being more than from 50 to 60 feet above the river bottom, which is also wider than usual being from 5 to 9 ms. in width; traces of the ancient beds of the river are visible in many places through the whole extent of this valley. since the hills have become lower the appearance of the stratas of coal burnt hills and pumice stone have in a great measure ceased; I saw none today. we saw vast quantities of Buffaloe, Elk, deer principally of the long tale kind, Antelope or goats, beaver, geese, ducks, brant and some swan. near the entrance of the river mentioned in the 10th course of this day, we saw an unusual number of Porcupines from which we determined to call the river after that anamal, and accordingly denominated it Porcupine river. this stream discharges itself into the Missouri on the Stard. side 2000 miles above the mouth of the latter, it is a beatifull bold runing stream, 40 yards wide at it's entrance; the water is transparent, it being the first of this discription that I have yet seen discharge itself into the Missouri; before it enters a large sand bar through which it discharges itself into the missouri it's banks and bottom are formed of a stiff blue and black clay; it appears to be navigable for canoes and perogues at this time and I have no doubt but it might be navigated with boats of a considerable size in high water. it's banks appear to be from 8 to ten feet high and seldom overflow; from the quantity of water furnished by this river, the appearance of the country, the direction it pursues, and the situation of it's entrance, I have but little doubt but it takes it's source not far from the main body of the Suskashawan river, and that it is probably navigable 150 miles; perhaps not very distant from that river. should this be the case, it would afford a very favorable communication to the Athebaskay country, from whence the British N. W. Company derive so large a portion of their valuable furs.—Capt. Clark who ascended this river several miles and passed it above where it entered the hills informed me on his return that he found the general width of the bed of the river about one hundred yards, where he passed the river the bed was 112 yards wide, the water was knee deep and 38 yard in width; the river which he could observe from the rising grounds for about 20 miles, bore a little to the East of North. there was a considerable portion of timber in the bottom lands of this river. Capt Clark also met with limestone on the surface of the earth in the course of his walk. he also saw a range of low mountains at a distance to the W of N , their direction being N. W. the country in the neighborhood of this river, and as far as the eye can reach, is level, fertile, open and beatifull beyond discription. 1/4 of a mile above the entrance of this river a large creek falls in which we called 2000 mile creek. I sent Rubin Fields to examine it, he reported it to be a bold runing stream, it's bed 30 yards wide. we proceeded about 3 miles abov this creek and encamped on the Stard. shore. I walked out a little distance and met with 2 porcupines which were feeding on the young willow which grow in great abundance on all the sandbars; this anamal is exceedingly clumsy and not very watchfull I approached so near one of them before it percieved me that I touched it with my espontoon.—found the nest of a wild goose among some driftwood in the river from which we took three eggs. this is the only nest we have met with on driftwood, the usual position is the top of a broken tree, sometimes in the forks of a large tree but almost invariably, from 15 to 20 feet or upwards high.-
Friday, May 3rd, 1805. The morning was very cold, so we didn't leave as early as usual; ice formed on a kettle of water about 1/4 of an inch thick. The snow has mostly melted in the low areas, but the hills are still covered. On the left side, about 2 miles away, we passed a strange collection of bushes tied together in the shape of a fence, standing upright in the open area, appearing to be about 30 feet high and ten or twelve feet in diameter. We assumed this was placed there by the Indians as a sacrifice for some purpose. The wind continued to blow hard from the west, but not strong enough to force us to stay put. Captain Clark walked on shore and killed an elk, which he had processed by the time I arrived with the party. We halted here and had lunch around noon, our usual time for this. After lunch, Captain Clark continued his walk while I stayed with the party, as it was a rule we had established to never be away from the group at the same time. The plains or highlands are much less elevated than before, only about 50 to 60 feet above the river bottom, which is also wider than usual, measuring 5 to 9 miles in width. Traces of ancient riverbeds are visible in many places throughout this entire valley. Since the hills have become lower, the appearance of the coal strata and pumice stone has largely diminished; I saw none today. We saw vast quantities of buffalo, elk, deer—mostly the long-tailed kind—antelope or goats, beavers, geese, ducks, brant, and a few swans. Near the entrance of the river mentioned in the 10th course of the day, we noticed an unusual number of porcupines, leading us to name the river after that animal, so we called it Porcupine River. This stream flows into the Missouri on the eastern side, 2000 miles above the mouth of the latter. It is a beautiful, strong-running stream, 40 yards wide at its entrance; the water is clear, making it the first of this kind I've seen flow into the Missouri. Before it enters, there is a large sandbar, and its banks and bottom consist of hard blue and black clay. It seems navigable for canoes and pirogues at this time, and I believe it could handle boats of considerable size in high water. Its banks are about 8 to 10 feet high and seldom overflow. Given the amount of water from this river, the appearance of the land, the direction it flows, and its entrance location, I have little doubt it originates not far from the main body of the Saskatchewan River and is likely navigable for about 150 miles, perhaps not too far from that river. If this is the case, it could provide a favorable route to the Athabasca country, which is where the British Northwest Company gets a large portion of their valuable furs. Captain Clark, who traveled several miles up this river and passed its entry into the hills, told me upon his return that he found the general width of the riverbed to be about one hundred yards. Where he crossed, it was 112 yards wide, the water was knee-deep and 38 yards wide; he could see the river from the rising ground for about 20 miles, and it flowed slightly to the east of north. There was a significant amount of timber in the bottomlands of this river. Captain Clark also encountered limestone at the surface of the earth during his walk. He spotted a range of low mountains at a distance to the northwest of north. The area around this river, as far as the eye can see, is flat, fertile, and exceedingly beautiful. A quarter of a mile above the river's entrance, a large creek flows in, which we named 2000 Mile Creek. I sent Rubin Fields to check it out, and he reported it as a strong-running stream, about 30 yards wide. We proceeded about 3 miles above this creek and camped on the eastern shore. I walked a short distance and saw 2 porcupines feeding on young willow, which grows abundantly on all the sandbars. This animal is quite clumsy and not very alert; I approached so close to one that I touched it with my espontoon. I found a wild goose nest among some driftwood in the river, from which we took three eggs. This is the only nest we've found in driftwood; usually, they are positioned on the top of a broken tree, sometimes in the forks of a large tree, but almost always from 15 to 20 feet or more off the ground.
[Clark, May 3, 1805]
May 3rd Friday 1805 we Set out reather later this morning than usial owing to weather being verry cold, a frost last night and the Thermt. Stood this morning at 26 above 0 which is 6 Degrees blow freeseing—the ice that was on the Kittle left near the fire last night was 1/4 of an inch thick. The Snow is all or nearly all off the low bottoms, the Hills are entireley Covered. three of our party found in the back of a bottom 3 pieces of Scarlet one brace in each, which had been left as a Sacrifice near one of their Swet houses, on the L. S. we passed to day a curious collection of bushes tied up in the shape of fascene about 10 feet diamuter, which must have been left also by the natives as an offering to their medison which they Convinced protected or gave them relief near the place, the wind Continued to blow hard from the West, altho not Sufficently So to detain us, I walked on Shore and killed an Elk & had him bucchured by the time the Perogus Came up which was the usial time of dineing. The high lands are low and from 8 to 9 miles apart and there is evident marks of the bead of the river having been changed frequently but little appearance of the Coal & burnt hills to day- Great numbers of Buffalow, Elk, Deer, antilope, beaver, Porcupins, & water fowls Seen to day, Such as, Geese, ducks of dift. kinds, & a fiew Swan—I continued my walk on Shore after dinner, and arrived at the mouth of a river on the St. Side, which appeared to be large, and I concluded to go up this river a few miles to examine it accordingly I Set out North 1 mile thro wood or timbered bottom, 2 miles through a butifull leavel plain, and 1 mile over a high plain about 50 feet higher than the bottom & Came to the little river, which I found to be a butifull clear Stream of about 100 yds. from bank to bank, (I waded this river at the narrowest part and made it 112 Steps from bank to bank and at this place which was a kind of fording place the water was near Knee deep, and 38 steps wide, the bottom of a hard stiff Black Clay,) I observed a Great perportion of timber in the bottoms of this river as far as I could See which was to the East of N. 18 or 20 miles, it appears to be navigable at this time for Canoes, and from appearances must be navagable a long distance for Perogus & boats in high water. This river we call Porcupine from the great number of those anamals found about it's mouth.—a Short distance above about 1/4 mile and on the Lard Side a large Creek falls in, which R. Fields went to examine & reports that it is a bold running Stream, 30 yds wide as this Creek is 2000 miles up the Missouri we Call it the 2000 mile Creek, we proceeded on 3 miles & Camped on the S. S. here I joined Capt Lewis who had in my absens walkd. on the upper Side of Porcupine River for Some distance—This river from its Size & quantity of water must head at no great distance from the Saskashawan on this river I Saw emence herds Elk & Buffalow & many deer & Porcupine. I also Saw the top of a mountain which did not appear verry high to the West of N. & bore N W. I Saw on the high land limestone & pebble—The Countrey about the mouth of this river and as far as the eye Can reach is butifull open Countrey. The greater part of the Snow is melted.
May 3rd, Friday, 1805: We set out a bit later this morning than usual due to the weather being very cold. There was a frost last night, and the thermometer stood at 26 degrees above zero, which is 6 degrees below freezing. The ice that was on the kettle left near the fire last night was 1/4 inch thick. The snow is mostly gone from the low areas, but the hills are completely covered. Three of our party found three pieces of scarlet fabric tied in a brace in the back of a low area, which had been left as a sacrifice near one of their sweat houses. On the left side, we passed a curious collection of bushes tied together in the shape of a fascine about 10 feet in diameter, likely left by the natives as an offering to their medicine, which they believed protected or helped them in that area. The wind continued to blow hard from the west, though not enough to hold us back. I walked on shore and killed an elk, and by the time the pirogue caught up with us, it was the usual time for dinner. The highlands are low, about 8 to 9 miles apart, and there are clear signs of the river's course changing frequently, but today there was little sign of coal or burned hills. We saw many buffalo, elk, deer, antelope, beaver, porcupines, and waterfowl, such as geese and various kinds of ducks, along with a few swans. I continued my walk on shore after dinner and reached the mouth of a large river on the south side, deciding to explore it a few miles up. Accordingly, I set out north for 1 mile through wooded bottomland, then 2 miles across a beautiful level plain, and 1 mile over a higher plain about 50 feet above the bottom. I came to the little river, which I found to be a beautiful clear stream about 100 yards wide. I waded across at the narrowest part, which took me 112 steps from bank to bank. At this fording place, the water was nearly knee-deep and 38 steps wide, with a hard, stiff black clay bottom. I noticed a significant amount of timber in the bottoms of this river as far as I could see, likely extending eastward 18 to 20 miles. It seems to be navigable at this time for canoes and, from appearances, should be navigable for pirogues and boats when the water is high. We named this river Porcupine because of the numerous porcupines found around its mouth. A short distance upstream, about 1/4 mile on the left side, a large creek flows in, which R. Fields went to investigate. He reported it as a strong-running stream, 30 yards wide. Since this creek is 2000 miles up the Missouri, we named it the 2000 Mile Creek. We proceeded for 3 miles and camped on the south side, where I joined Captain Lewis, who had walked a distance on the upper side of Porcupine River in my absence. This river, due to its size and water volume, must originate not far from the Saskatchewan. Along this river, I saw large herds of elk and buffalo, along with many deer and porcupines. I also spotted the top of a mountain to the west, which didn't seem very high and bore northwest. I observed limestone and pebbles on the highland. The area around the mouth of this river stretches beautifully open as far as the eye can see. Most of the snow has melted.
[Lewis, May 4, 1805]
Saturday May 4th 1805. We were detained this morning untill about 9 OCk. in order to repare the rudder irons of the red perogue which were broken last evening in landing; we then set out, the wind hard against us. I walked on shore this morning, the weather was more plesant, the snow has disappeared; the frost seems to have effected the vegetation much less than could have been expected the leaves of the cottonwood the grass the box alder willow and the yellow flowering pea seem to be scarcely touched; the rosebushes and honeysuckle seem to have sustaned the most considerable injury. The country on both sides of the Missouri continues to be open level fertile and beautifull as far as the eye can reach which from some of the eminences is not short of 30 miles. the river bottoms are very extensive and contain a much greater proportion of timber than usual; the fore part of this day the river was bordered with timber on both sides, a circumstance which is extreemly rare and the first which has occurred of any thing like the same extent since we left the Mandans, in the after part of the day we passed an extensive beautifull plain on the Stard. side which gradually ascended from the river. I saw immence quantities of buffaloe in every direction, also some Elk deer and goats; having an abundance of meat on hand I passed them without firing on them; they are extreemly gentle the bull buffaloe particularly will scarcely give way to you. I passed several in the open plain within fifty paces, they viewed me for a moment as something novel and then very unconcernedly continued to feed. Capt. Clark walked on shore this evening and did not rejoin us untill after dark, he struck the river several miles above our camp and came down to us. we saw many beaver some which the party shot, we also killed two deer today. much sign of the brown bear. passed several old Indian hunting camps in the course of the day one of them contained two large lodges which were fortifyed with old driftwood and fallen timber; this fortification consisted of a circular fence of timber lade horizontally laping on and over laying each other to the hight of 5 feet. these pounds are sometimes built from 20 to 30 feet in diameter and covered over with the trunks and limbs of old timber. the usual construction of the lodges we have lately passed is as follows. three or more strong sticks the thickness of a man's leg or arm and about 12 feet long are attatched together at one end by a with of small willows, these are then set on end and spread at the base, forming a circle of ten twelve or 14 feet in diameter; sticks of driftwood and fallen timber of convenient size are now placed with one end on the ground and the other resting against those which are secured together at top by the with and which support and give the form to the whole, thus the sticks are laid on untill they make it as thick as they design, usually about three ranges, each piece breaking or filling up the interstice of the two beneath it, the whole forming a connic figure about 10 feet high with a small apperture in one side which answers as a door. leaves bark and straw are sometimes thrown over the work to make it more complete, but at best it affords a very imperfect shelter particularly without straw which is the state in which we have most usually found them.
Saturday, May 4th, 1805. We were held up this morning until about 9 o'clock to repair the broken rudder irons of the red pirogue, which got damaged last night while landing. After that, we set off, but the wind was blowing hard against us. I walked along the shore this morning; the weather was more pleasant, and the snow had melted away. The frost seems to have affected the vegetation much less than expected. The leaves of the cottonwood, grass, box elder, willow, and yellow flowering pea appear to be barely touched; the rosebushes and honeysuckle seem to have suffered the most significant damage. The land on both sides of the Missouri River remains open, flat, fertile, and beautiful as far as the eye can see, which from some high points is not less than 30 miles. The river's floodplains are quite extensive and have a much higher proportion of timber than usual; during the first part of the day, the river was lined with trees on both sides, which is extremely rare and the first instance of such a stretch since we left the Mandans. Later, we crossed a vast, beautiful plain on the starboard side that gently rose from the river. I saw huge numbers of buffalo in every direction, as well as some elk, deer, and goats. Since we had plenty of meat, I decided not to fire at them. They are incredibly gentle; the bull buffalo, in particular, hardly moves out of the way for you. I passed several on the open plain within fifty paces. They looked at me briefly as if I were something unusual and then nonchalantly went back to grazing. Captain Clark walked along the shore this evening and didn't rejoin us until after dark; he hit the river several miles upstream from our camp and made his way down to us. We saw many beavers, some of which the group shot, and we also killed two deer today. There were many signs of brown bears. We passed several old Indian hunting camps throughout the day; one of them had two large lodges fortified with old driftwood and fallen timber. This fortification consisted of a circular fence of timber laid horizontally, overlapping each other to a height of 5 feet. These enclosures are sometimes built with diameters ranging from 20 to 30 feet and covered with trunks and limbs of old trees. The typical design of the lodges we've seen recently is as follows: three or more strong sticks, about the thickness of a man's leg or arm and around 12 feet long, are tied together at one end with a bundle of small willows. These are then erected, spread out at the base to form a circle about 10, 12, or 14 feet in diameter. Pieces of driftwood and fallen timber of suitable size are placed with one end on the ground and the other resting against those secured at the top with the willow, which supports and shapes the entire structure. Sticks are layered on until they reach the desired thickness, typically around three layers, with each piece breaking or filling the gaps of the two below it, creating a conical shape about 10 feet high with a small opening on one side that serves as a door. Leaves, bark, and straw are sometimes tossed over the structure for better insulation, but at best, it provides very inadequate shelter, especially without straw, which is how we've mostly found them.
At noon the sun was so much obscured that I could not obtain his maridian Altitude which I much wished in order to fix the latitude of the entrance of Porcupine river. Joseph Fields was very sick today with the disentary had a high fever I gave him a doze of Glauber salts, which operated very well, in the evening his fever abated and I gave him 30 drops of laudnum.-
At noon, the sun was so obscured that I couldn't get his noon altitude, which I really wanted to determine the latitude of the entrance to Porcupine River. Joseph Fields was very sick today with dysentery and had a high fever. I gave him a dose of Glauber salts, which worked well. In the evening, his fever went down, and I gave him 30 drops of laudanum.
[Clark, May 4, 1805]
May 4th Satturday 1805 The rudder Irons of our large Perogue broke off last night, the replaceing of which detained us this morning untill 9 oClock at which time we Set out the wind a head from the west, The Countrey on each Side of the Missouri is a rich high and butifull the bottoms are extencive with a great deal of timber on them all the fore part of this day the wood land bordered the river on both Sides, in the after part a butifull assending plain on the Std Side we Camped on the Std. Side a little above we passed a Small Creek on the L. Side near which I Saw where an Indian lodge had been fortified many year past. Saw great numbers of anamals of different kinds on the banks, I Saw the black martin to day-in the evening I walkd. on Shore on the Std Side & Struck the river Several miles above our Camp & did not get to Camp untill Some time after night—we have one man Sick, The river has been falling for Several days passed; it now begins to rise a little; the rate of rise & fall is from one to 3 inches in 24 hours.
May 4th, Saturday, 1805: The rudder irons on our large Perogue broke off last night, and replacing them held us up this morning until 9 o'clock. At that time, we set out with the wind coming from the west. The land on both sides of the Missouri is rich, high, and beautiful; the bottoms are extensive and have a lot of timber on them. Throughout the first part of the day, the woodland lined the river on both sides, and later in the day, we saw a lovely ascending plain on the starboard side. We camped on the starboard side just above where we crossed a small creek on the left side, near which I saw that an Indian lodge had been fortified many years ago. I spotted a great number of animals of different kinds along the banks, including a black marten today. In the evening, I walked onshore on the starboard side and hit the river several miles above our camp and didn’t return to camp until sometime after nightfall. One of our men is sick. The river has been falling for several days; it's now starting to rise a little. The rate of rise and fall is between one to three inches in 24 hours.
[Lewis, May 5, 1805]
Sunday May 5th 1805 A fine morning I walked on shore untill 8 A M when we halted for breakfast and in the course of my walk killed a deer which I carried about a mile and a half to the river, it was in good order. soon after seting out the rudder irons of the white perogue were broken by her runing fowl on a sawyer, she was however refitted in a few minutes with some tugs of raw hide and nales. as usual saw a great quantity of game today; Buffaloe Elk and goats or Antelopes feeding in every direction; we kill whatever we wish, the buffaloe furnish us with fine veal and fat beef, we also have venison and beaver tales when we wish them; the flesh of the Elk and goat are less esteemed, and certainly are inferior. we have not been able to take any fish for some time past. The country is as yesterday beatifull in the extreme.
Sunday, May 5th, 1805 It was a beautiful morning. I walked onshore until 8 AM, when we stopped for breakfast. During my walk, I killed a deer, which I carried about a mile and a half to the river; it was in good condition. Soon after setting out, the rudder irons of the white perogue broke when it hit a sawyer. However, we fixed it in a few minutes with some rawhide tugs and nails. As usual, I saw a lot of game today: buffalo, elk, and antelopes grazing in every direction. We kill whatever we want; the buffalo provide us with excellent veal and rich beef. We can also have venison and beaver tails whenever we want. The meat from the elk and goat is not as prized and is certainly considered inferior. We haven't been able to catch any fish for a while. The scenery is, as it was yesterday, extremely beautiful.
saw the carcases of many Buffaloe lying dead along the shore partially devoured by the wolves and bear. saw a great number of white brant also the common brown brant, geese of the common kind and a small species of geese which differ considerably from the common canadian goose; their neck head and beak are considerably thicker shorter and larger than the other in proportion to it's size, they are also more than a third smaller, and their note more like that of the brant or a young goose which has not perfectly acquired his notes, in all other rispects they are the same in colour habits and the number of feathers in the tale, they frequently also ascociate with the large geese when in flocks, but never saw them pared off with the large or common goose. The white brant ascociate in very large flocks, they do not appear to be mated or pared off as if they intended to raise their young in this quarter, I therefore doubt whether they reside here during the summer for that purpose.
I saw the carcasses of many buffalo lying dead along the shore, partially eaten by wolves and bears. I noticed a large number of white brant as well as the common brown brant, typical geese, and a smaller type of goose that differs significantly from the common Canadian goose. Their neck, head, and beak are much thicker, shorter, and larger in proportion to their size. They are also more than a third smaller, and their call is more like that of a brant or a young goose that hasn't fully developed its sounds. In every other respect, they are the same in color, habits, and the number of feathers in their tail. They often hang out with the larger geese when in flocks, but I never saw them paired off with the larger or common goose. The white brant gather in very large flocks, and they don’t seem to be mated or paired off as if they plan to raise their young here, so I doubt they stay here during the summer for that purpose.
this bird is about the size of the common brown brant or two thirds of the common goose, it is not so long by six inches from point to point of the wings when extended as the other; the beak head and neck are also larger and stronger; their beak legs and feet are of a redish or fleshcoloured white. the eye is of moderate size, the puple of a deep sea green incircled with a ring of yellowish brown. it has sixteen feathers of equal length in the tale; their note differs but little from the common brant, their flesh much the same, and in my opinion preferable to the goose, the flesh is dark. they are entirely of a beatifull pure white except the large feathers of the 1st and second joints of the wings which are jut black. form and habits are the same with the other brant; they sometimes ascociate and form one common flock. Capt Clark found a den of young wolves in the course of his walk today and also saw a great number of those anamals; they are very abundant in this quarter, and are of two species the small woolf or burrowing dog of the praries are the inhabitants almost invariably of the open plains; they usually ascociate in bands of ten or twelve sometimes more and burrow near some pass or place much frequented by game; not being able alone to take a deer or goat they are rarely ever found alone but hunt in bands; they frequently watch and seize their prey near their burrows; in these burrows they raise their young and to them they also resort when pursued; when a person approaches them they frequently bark, their note being precisely that of the small dog. they are of an intermediate size between that of the fox and dog, very active fleet and delicately formed; the ears large erect and pointed the head long and pointed more like that of the fox; tale long; the hair and fur also resembles the fox tho is much coarser and inferior. they are of a pale redish brown colour. the eye of a deep sea green colour small and piercing. their tallons are reather longer than those of the ordinary wolf or that common to the atlantic states, none of which are to be found in this quarter, nor I believe above the river Plat.—The large woolf found here is not as large as those of the atlantic states. they are lower and thicker made shorter leged. their colour which is not effected by the seasons, is a grey or blackish brown and every intermediate shade from that to a creen coloured white; these wolves resort the woodlands and are also found in the plains, but never take refuge in the ground or burrow so far as I have been able to inform myself. we scarcely see a gang of buffaloe without observing a parsel of those faithfull shepherds on their skirts in readiness to take care of the mamed & wounded. the large wolf never barks, but howls as those of the atlantic states do. Capt. Clark and Drewyer killed the largest brown bear this evening which we have yet seen. it was a most tremendious looking anamal, and extreemly hard to kill notwithstanding he had five balls through his lungs and five others in various parts he swam more than half the distance acoss the river to a sandbar & it was at least twenty minutes before he died; he did not attempt to attact, but fled and made the most tremendous roaring from the moment he was shot. We had no means of weighing this monster; Capt. Clark thought he would weigh 500 lbs. for my own part I think the estimate too small by 100 lbs. he measured 8 Feet 71/2 Inches from the nose to the extremety of the hind feet, 5 F. to 1/2 Inch arround the breast, 1 F. 11 I. arround the middle of the arm, & 3 F. 11 I. arround the neck; his tallons which were five in number on each foot were 4 1/8 Inches in length. he was in good order, we therefore divided him among the party and made them boil the oil and put it in a cask for future uce; the oil is as hard as hogs lard when cool, much more so than that of the black bear. this bear differs from the common black bear in several respects; it's tallons are much longer and more blont, it's tale shorter, it's hair which is of a redish or bey brown, is longer thicker and finer than that of the black bear; his liver lungs and heart are much larger even in proportion with his size; the heart particularly was as large as that of a large Ox. his maw was also ten times the size of black bear, and was filled with flesh and fish. his testicles were pendant from the belly and placed four inches assunder in seperate bags or pouches.—this animal also feeds on roots and almost every species of wild fruit.
This bird is about the size of the common brown brant or two-thirds the size of the common goose. It's six inches shorter from the tip of its wings when fully spread compared to the others. The beak, head, and neck are also larger and sturdier. Their beak, legs, and feet are reddish or flesh-colored white. The eye is of moderate size, with a deep sea green pupil surrounded by a ring of yellowish-brown. It has sixteen feathers of equal length in its tail. Their call is quite similar to that of the common brant, and their flesh is much the same, in my opinion, even better than that of the goose; the meat is dark. They are all a beautiful pure white, except for the large feathers on the first and second joints of the wings, which are black. Their shape and habits are similar to those of the other brants; they sometimes associate and form one common flock. Captain Clark discovered a den of young wolves during his walk today and also spotted a large number of those animals; they are very common in this area and consist of two species: the small wolf or burrowing dog of the prairies, which usually inhabit the open plains. They often band together in groups of ten or twelve, sometimes more, and burrow near a pass or a place frequently visited by game. Unable to hunt deer or goats alone, they’re rarely found alone but hunt in packs. They often wait and pounce on their prey near their burrows; they raise their young in these burrows and retreat there when chased. When approached, they often bark, sounding just like a small dog. They are intermediate in size between a fox and a dog, very active, fast, and delicately built; their ears are large, erect, and pointed, the head long and pointed, resembling that of a fox. They have long tails, and their fur is similar to that of a fox, although much coarser and of lesser quality. They have a pale reddish-brown color, and their eyes are a deep sea green, small and piercing. Their claws are somewhat longer than those of the typical wolf found in the Atlantic states, none of which are present in this area, nor do I believe above the Rio Plata. The large wolf found here is not as big as those from the Atlantic states; they are shorter, sturdier, and have shorter legs. Their color, which isn’t affected by the seasons, ranges from grey or blackish-brown and every shade in between to a greenish-white. These wolves inhabit woodlands and can also be found in the plains, but they never dig burrows or take refuge underground, as far as I know. We hardly see a buffalo herd without noticing a pack of these faithful shepherds on the outskirts, ready to tend to the injured and wounded. The larger wolf never barks but howls, like those in the Atlantic states. Captain Clark and Drewyer killed the largest brown bear we’ve seen this evening. It was an incredibly intimidating creature and extremely hard to bring down; despite having five bullets in its lungs and five others in various parts, it swam more than half the distance across the river to a sandbar, and it took at least twenty minutes for it to die. It didn’t try to attack but fled, making a tremendous roaring sound the moment it was shot. We had no way to weigh this beast; Captain Clark estimated it would weigh 500 lbs., but I think that's too low by about 100 lbs. It measured 8 feet 7.5 inches from the nose to the tip of the hind feet, 5 feet 1/2 inch around the breast, 1 foot 11 inches around the middle of the arm, and 3 feet 11 inches around the neck. Its claws, five in number on each foot, were 4 1/8 inches long. It was in good condition, so we divided it among the party and had them boil the oil and store it in a barrel for future use; the oil is as solid as hog lard when cool, much firmer than that of the black bear. This bear differs from the common black bear in several ways: its claws are much longer and blunter, its tail is shorter, and its hair, which is reddish or bay-brown, is longer, thicker, and finer than that of the black bear. Its liver, lungs, and heart are proportionally larger than its size, with the heart being as large as that of a big ox. Its stomach was also ten times the size of a black bear's and was filled with meat and fish. Its testicles hung from the belly and were four inches apart in separate bags or pouches. This animal also feeds on roots and nearly every type of wild fruit.
The party killed two Elk and a Buffaloe today, and my dog caught a goat, which he overtook by superior fleetness, the goat it must be understood was with young and extreemly poor. a great number of these goats are devowered by the wolves and bear at this season when they are poor and passing the river from S. W. to N. E. they are very inactive and easily taken in the water, a man can out swim them with great ease; the Indians take them in great numbers in the river at this season and in autumn when they repass to the S. W.
The party killed two elk and a buffalo today, and my dog caught a goat, which he caught up to because he was faster. The goat, by the way, was pregnant and in very poor condition. A lot of these goats get eaten by wolves and bears during this time when they’re weak, and when they’re crossing the river from southwest to northeast, they’re quite sluggish and easy to catch in the water; a person can swim faster than them with ease. The Indians catch them in large numbers in the river during this time and in autumn when they head back to the southwest.
[Clark, May 5, 1805]
5th of May Sunday 1805 We Set out verry early and had not proceeded far before the rudder Irons of one of the Perogus broke which detained us a Short time Capt Lewis walked on Shore this morning and killed a Deer, after brackfast I walked on Shore Saw great numbers of Buffalow & Elk Saw also a Den of young wolves, and a number of (frown wolves in every direction, the white & Grey Brant is in this part of the Missouri I shot at the white brant but at So great a distance I did not kill, The Countrey on both sides is as yesterday, handsom & fertile—The river rising & Current Strong & in the evening we Saw a Brown or Grisley beare on a Sand beech, I went out with one man Geo. Drewyer & Killed the bear, which was verry large and a turrible looking animal, which we found verry hard to kill we Shot ten Balls into him before we killed him, & 5 of those Balls through his lights This animal is the largest of the Carnivorous kind I ever Saw we had nothing that could way him, I think his weight may be Stated at 500 pounds, he measured 8 feet 71/2 In. from his nose to the extremity of the Toe, 5 feet 101/2 in. arround the breast, 1 feet 11 Ins. around the middle of the arm, 3 feet 11 Ins. arround the neck his tallents was 4 Inches &3/8 long, he was good order, and appeared verry different from the Common black bear in as much as his tallents were blunt, his tail Short, his liver & lights much larger, his maw ten times as large and Contained meat or flesh & fish only—we had him Skined and divided, the oile tried up & put in Kegs for use. we Camped on the Stard Side, our men killed three Elk and a Buffalow to day, and our Dog Cought an antilope a fair race, this animal appeared verry pore & with young.
5th of May, Sunday, 1805 We set out very early and hadn’t gone far before the rudder irons of one of the perogues broke, which held us up for a bit. Captain Lewis walked ashore this morning and killed a deer. After breakfast, I walked on shore and saw a lot of buffalo and elk. I also spotted a den of young wolves and several grown wolves in every direction. The white and gray brant are present in this part of the Missouri. I shot at the white brant, but at such a great distance, I missed. The landscape on both sides is just like yesterday—beautiful and fertile. The river is rising, and the current is strong. In the evening, we saw a brown or grizzly bear on a sand beach. I went out with one man, George Drewyer, and killed the bear, which was very large and a terrifying-looking animal. It was difficult to kill; we shot ten bullets into it before it went down, five of those bullets hitting its lungs. This animal is the largest carnivorous creature I’ve ever seen; we had nothing that could weigh it. I estimate its weight at about 500 pounds. It measured 8 feet 7.5 inches from its nose to the tip of its toes, 5 feet 10.5 inches around the chest, 1 foot 11 inches around the middle of the arm, and 3 feet 11 inches around the neck. Its claws were 4 inches and 3/8 long. It was in good condition and looked very different from the common black bear, as its claws were blunt, its tail short, and its liver and lungs much larger; its maw was ten times as large and contained only meat or fish. We had it skinned and divided, the oil was collected and put in kegs for use. We camped on the starboard side. Our men killed three elk and a buffalo today, and our dog caught an antelope in a fair chase; this animal looked very thin and was with young.
[Lewis, May 6, 1805]
Monday May 6th 1805. The morning being fair and pleasant and wind favourable we set sale at an early hour, and proceeded on very well the greater part of the day; the country still continues level fertile and beautifull, the bottoms wide and well timbered comparitively speaking with other parts of the river; no appearance of birnt hills pumice stone or coal, the salts of tartar or vegitable salts continues to appear on the river banks, sand bars and in many parts of the plains most generally in the little revines at the base of the low hills. passed three streames today which discharged themselves on the Lard. side; the first of these we call little dry creek it contained some water in standing pools but discharged none, the 2ed 50 yards wide no Water, we called it Big dry Creek, the 3rd is bed of a conspicuous river 200 yards wide which we called little dry river; the banks of these streams are low and bottoms wide with but little timber, their beds are almost entirely formed of a fine brown sand intermixed with a small proportion of little pebbles, which were either transparent, white, green, red, yellow or brown. these streams appeared to continue their width without diminution as far as we could perceive them, which with rispect to the river was many miles, they had recenly discharged their waters. from the appearance of these streams, and the country through which they passed, we concluded that they had their souces in level low dry plains, which probably is the character of the country for a great distance west of this, or to the vicinity of the black hills, that the country being low on the same level nearly and in the same parallel of latitude, that the rains in the spring of the year suddonly melts the snow at the same time and causes for a few days a vast quantity of water which finds it's way to the Missouri through those channels; by reference to the diary of the weather &c it will be percieved that there is scarcely any rain during the summer Autumn and winter in this open country distant from the mountains. Fields still continues unwell. saw a brown bear swim the river above us, he disappeared before we can get in reach of him; I find that the curiossity of our party is pretty well satisfyed with rispect to this anamal, the formidable appearance of the male bear killed on the 5th added to the difficulty with which they die when even shot through the vital parts, has staggered the resolution several of them, others however seem keen for action with the bear; I expect these gentlemen will give us some amusement shotly as they soon begin now to coppolate. saw a great quantity of game of every species common here. Capt Clark walked on shore and killed two Elk, they were not in very good order, we therefore took a part of the meat only; it is now only amusement for Capt. C. and myself to kill as much meat as the party can consum; I hope it may continue thus through our whole rout, but this I do not much expect. two beaver were taken in traps this morning and one since shot by one of the party. saw numbers of these anamals peeping at us as we passed out of their wholes which they form of a cilindric shape, by burrowing in the face of the abbrupt banks of the river.
Monday, May 6th, 1805. The morning was fair and pleasant, with a favorable wind, so we set sail early and made good progress for most of the day. The land remains level, fertile, and beautiful, with wide bottoms that are relatively well-timbered compared to other parts of the river. There are no signs of burnt hills, pumice stone, or coal; instead, we continue to see salts of tartar or vegetable salts along the riverbanks, sandbars, and in many areas of the plains, most commonly in the small ravines at the base of the low hills. We passed three streams today that flow into the left side; the first we named Little Dry Creek, which had some water in standing pools but was not flowing. The second was 50 yards wide with no water, so we called it Big Dry Creek. The third was a dry riverbed, 200 yards wide, which we named Little Dry River. The banks of these streams are low, and the bottoms are wide with very little timber. Their beds are mostly made of fine brown sand mixed with a small amount of small pebbles that are transparent, white, green, red, yellow, or brown. These streams seemed to maintain their width without narrowing as far as we could see, which was many miles from the river; they had recently drained their waters. From the appearance of these streams and the surrounding land, we inferred that they sourced from level, dry plains, which likely extends for a great distance westward, possibly near the Black Hills. The terrain appears to be mostly flat and on the same latitude, where spring rains suddenly melt the snow at the same time, creating a large volume of water that flows to the Missouri River through these channels. According to the weather diary, it is clear there is very little rain during the summer, autumn, and winter in this open area far from the mountains. The party's health is still not good. I saw a brown bear swim across the river above us, but he disappeared before we could get close. The curiosity of our group regarding this animal seems to have been mostly satisfied; the imposing look of the male bear killed on the 5th and the difficulty in bringing them down, even when shot in vital areas, has shaken the resolve of several. However, some others are eager to hunt bears; I expect they will entertain us soon as they begin to mate. We saw a lot of game of various species common in this area. Captain Clark walked ashore and killed two elk, but they weren’t in great condition, so we only took a portion of the meat. Now it’s just for fun for Captain C. and me to bring in as much meat as the group can eat; I hope this will continue throughout our journey, but I’m not too optimistic about it. Two beavers were caught in traps this morning, and one was shot by a member of the group. We noticed many of these animals watching us as we passed by their homes, which they make in a cylindrical shape by burrowing into the steep riverbanks.
[Clark, May 6, 1805]
May 6th Monday 1805 a fine morning wind from the N. E. we Set out early and proceeded on verry well under Sail the greater part of the day, passed two Creeks & a River to day on the Lard. Side, neither of them discharged any water into the Missouri, they were wide and Continued their width for Some distance, the little water of those Creeks & the little river must wash the low Country, I believe those Streams to be the Conveyance of the water of the heavy rains & melting Snows in the Countrey back &c. &c. I walked on Shore and Killed two Elk neither of which was fat, we saved the best of the meat, one beaver Shot to day. the countrey on both Sides butifull no appearances of either Coal or pumice Stone & burnt hills, The Salts of Tarter or white aprs. of Salts are yet to be Seen.
May 6th, Monday, 1805 – it was a nice morning with a wind from the northeast. We set out early and sailed pretty well for most of the day, passing two creeks and a river on the left side. Neither of them flowed into the Missouri; they were wide and remained that way for quite a distance. The little water from those creeks and the small river must wash the lowland. I think these streams carry the water from heavy rains and melting snow in the area. I walked on shore and shot two elk, neither of which were fat, but we kept the best of the meat. I also shot one beaver today. The countryside on both sides is beautiful, and there are no signs of coal or pumice stone, nor any burnt hills. The salts of tartar or white appearances of salts have yet to be seen.
[Lewis, May 7, 1805]
Tuesday May 7th 1805. A fine morning, set out at an early hour; the drift wood begins to come down in consequence of the river's rising; the water is somewhat clearer than usual, a circumstance I did not expect on it's rise. at 11 A.M. the wind became so hard that we were compelled to ly by for several hours, one of the small canoes by the bad management of the steersman filled with water and had very nearly sunk; we unloaded her and dryed the baggage; at one we proceed on the wind having in some measure abated. the country we passed today on the North side of the river is one of the most beautifull plains we have yet seen, it rises gradually from the river bottom to the hight of 50 or 60 feet, then becoming level as a bowling green. extends back as far as the eye can reach; on the S. side the river hills are more broken and much higher tho some little destance back the country becomes level and fertile. no appearance of birnt hills coal or pumicestone, that of salts still continue. vegitation appears to have advanced very little since the 28th Ulto.—we continue to see a great number of bald Eagles, I presume they must feed on the carcases of dead anamals, for I see no fishing hawks to supply them with their favorite food. the water of the river is so terbid that no bird wich feeds exclusively on fish can subsist on it; from it's mouth to this place I have neither seen the blue crested fisher nor a fishing hawk. this day we killed 3 Buffaloe 1 Elk & 8 beaver; two of the Buffaloe killed by Capt Clark near our encampment of this evening wer in good order dressed them and saved the meat, the Elk I killed this morning, thought it fat, but on examineation found it so lean that we took the tongue marrowbones and Skin only.
Tuesday, May 7, 1805. It was a beautiful morning, and we set out early. The driftwood is starting to come down because the river is rising; the water is a bit clearer than usual, which I didn't expect with the rise. At 11 A.M., the wind picked up so much that we had to wait for several hours. One of the small canoes nearly sank due to the poor handling of the steersman, so we unloaded it and dried the baggage. By one o'clock, we continued on as the wind had eased somewhat. The area we passed today on the north side of the river is one of the most beautiful plains we've seen yet. It gradually rises from the riverbank to a height of 50 or 60 feet, then levels off like a bowling green, extending as far as the eye can see. On the south side, the river hills are more rugged and much higher, though a little further back, the terrain becomes flat and fertile. There are no signs of burnt hills, coal, or pumice stone, but there is still some salt. Vegetation doesn't seem to have progressed much since the 28th of last month. We continue to spot many bald eagles; I assume they must be feeding on the carcasses of dead animals, as I haven't seen any fishing hawks to provide their favorite food. The river water is so muddy that no birds that rely solely on fish can survive here; from its mouth to this point, I haven't spotted the blue-crested kingfisher or a fishing hawk. Today we hunted 3 buffalo, 1 elk, and 8 beavers. Two of the buffalo killed by Capt. Clark near our campsite this evening were in good shape, so we dressed them and saved the meat. I shot the elk this morning, thinking it was fat, but upon inspection, I found it so lean that we only kept the tongue, marrow bones, and skin.
[Clark, May 7, 1805]
May 7th Tuesday, 1805 A fine morning river rose 11/2 Inches last night, the drift wood beginning to run the water Something Clearer than usial, the wind became verry hard, and at 11 oClock one Canoe by bad Stearing filled with water, which detained us about 3 hours, had a Meridian altitude, the Laid. from which is 47°36' 11" 6/10 The Countrey on the North Side of the Missouri is one of the handsomest plains we have yet Seen on the river the plain rises from the river bottom gradually. The Hills on the South Side is high & uneavin. no appearance of Coal or burnt hills, that of Salts Still appear; vegitation appears to be Slow, I walked on the bank to day and Shot 2 beaver, in the evening Killed two Buffalow in tolerable order which we Saved and Camped on the Lard Side. 8 beaver, 3 buffalow & an Elk killed to day
May 7th, Tuesday, 1805 A beautiful morning; the river rose 1.5 inches last night, and the driftwood is starting to flow. The water is a bit clearer than usual. The wind picked up a lot, and at 11 o'clock, one canoe filled with water due to poor steering, which set us back about 3 hours. We took a meridian altitude; the latitude is 47°36' 11" 6/10. The country on the north side of the Missouri is one of the most beautiful plains we've seen on the river. The plain gradually rises from the riverbottom. The hills on the south side are high and uneven, with no signs of coal or burnt hills, but the salt deposits are still visible. Vegetation seems to be growing slowly. I walked along the bank today and shot 2 beavers. In the evening, I killed two buffalo in decent condition, which we saved, and we camped on the left side. Today, we killed 8 beavers, 3 buffalo, and an elk.
[Lewis, May 8, 1805]
Wednesday May 8th 1805. Set out at an early hour under a gentle brieze from the East. a black cloud which suddonly sprung up at S. E. soon over shaddowed the horizon; at 8 A.M. it gave us a slight sprinke of rain, the wind became much stronger but not so much so as to detain us. we nooned it just above the entrance of a large river which disimbogues on the Lard. side; I took the advantage of this leasure moment and examined the river about 3 miles; I found it generally 150 yards wide, and in some places 200. it is deep, gentle in it's courant and affords a large boddy of water; it's banks which are formed of a dark rich loam and blue clay are abbrupt and about 12 feet high. it's bed is principally mud. I have no doubt but it is navigable for boats perogues and canoes, for the latter probably a great distance. the bottoms of this stream ar wide, level, fertile and possess a considerable proportion of timber, principally Cottonwood. from the quantity of water furnised by this river it must water a large extent of country; perhaps this river also might furnish a practicable and advantageous communication with the Saskashiwan river; it is sufficiently large to justify a belief that it might reach to that river if it's direction be such. the water of this river possesses a peculiar whiteness, being about the colour of a cup of tea with the admixture of a tablespoonful) of milk. from the colour of it's water we called it Milk river. (we think it possible that this may be the river called by the Minitares the river which scoalds at all others or ____) Capt Clark who walked this morning on the Lard. shore ascended a very high point opposite to the mouth of this river; he informed me that he had a perfect view of this river and the country through which it passed for a great distance (probably 50 or 60 Miles,) that the country was level and beautifull on both sides of the river, with large herds of Buffaloe distributed throughout that the river from it's mouth boar N. W. for 12 or 15 Miles when it forked, the one taking a direction nearly North, and the other to the West of N. West. from the appearance of the vallies and the timber on each of these streams Capt. C. supposed that they were about the same size. great appearance of beaver on this river, and I have no doubt but what they continue abundant, there being plenty of cottonwood and willow, the timber on which they subsist. The country on the Lard. side of the river is generally high broken hills, with much broken, grey black and brown grannite scattered on the surface of the earth in a confused manner. The wild Licquorice is found on the sides of these hills, in great abundance. at a little distance from the river there is no timber to be seen on either side; the bottom lands are not more than one fifth covered with timber; the timber as below is confined to the borders of the river. in future it will be understood that there is no timber of any discription on the upland unless particularly mentioned; and also that one fifth of the bottom lands being covered with timber is considered a large proportion. The white apple is found in great abundance in this neighbourhood; it is confined to the highlands principally. The whiteapple, so called by the French Engages, is a plant which rises to the hight of 6 or 9 Inchs. rarely exceeding a foot; it puts forth from one to four and sometimes more stalks from the same root, but is most generally found with one only, which is branched but not defusely, is cylindric and villose; the leafstalks, cylindric, villose and very long compared with the hight of the plant, tho gradually diminish in length as they ascend, and are irregular in point of position; the leaf, digitate, from three to five in number, oval 1 Inch long, absolutely entire and cottony; the whole plant of a pale green, except the under disk of the leaf which is of a white colour from the cottony substance with which it is covered. the radix a tuberous bulb; generally ova formed, sometimes longer and more rarely partially divided or brancing; always attended with one or more radicles at it's lower extremity which sink from 4 to 6 inches deep. the bulb covered with a rough black, tough, thin rind which easily seperates from the bulb which is a fine white substance, somewhat porus, spungy and moist, and reather tough before it is dressed; the center of the bulb is penitrated with a small tough string or ligament, which passing from the bottom of the stem terminates in the extremity of the radicle, which last is also covered by a prolongation of the rind which invellopes the bulb. The bulb is usually found at the debth of 4 inches and frequently much deeper. This root forms a considerable article of food with the Indians of the Missouri, who for this purpose prepare them in several ways. they are esteemed good at all seasons of the year, but are best from the middle of July to the latter end of Autumn when they are sought and gathered by the provident part of the natives for their winter store. when collected they are striped of their rhind and strung on small throngs or chords and exposed to the sun or placed in the smoke of their fires to dry; when well dryed they will keep for several years, provided they are not permitted to become moist or damp; in this situation they usually pound them between two stones placed on a piece of parchment, untill they reduce it to a fine powder thus prepared they thicken their soope with it; sometimes they also boil these dryed roots with their meat without breaking them; when green they are generally boiled with their meat, sometimes mashing them or otherwise as they think proper. they also prepare an agreeable dish with them by boiling and mashing them and adding the marrow grease of the buffaloe and some buries, until the whole be of the consistency of a haisty pudding. they also eat this root roasted and frequently make hearty meals of it raw without sustaining any inconvenience or injury therefrom. The White or brown bear feed very much on this root, which their tallons assist them to procure very readily. the white apple appears to me to be a tastless insippid food of itself tho I have no doubt but it is a very healthy and moderately nutricious food. I have no doubt but our epicures would admire this root very much, it would serve them in their ragouts and gravies in stead of the truffles morella.
Wednesday, May 8th, 1805. We set out early in the morning with a light breeze from the east. A black cloud suddenly appeared in the southeast, quickly overshadowing the horizon. At 8 A.M., it gave us a light sprinkle of rain; the wind picked up but was not strong enough to delay us. We took a break just above the mouth of a large river that flows into the left side; I seized this moment of leisure to explore the river for about 3 miles. I found it generally 150 yards wide, and in some areas, 200 yards. It is deep, flows gently, and offers a large body of water; its banks, made of dark, rich loam and blue clay, are steep, about 12 feet high. The riverbed consists mainly of mud. I am confident it is navigable for boats, canoes, and perhaps even larger vessels for a significant distance. The floodplain of this river is wide, flat, fertile, and has a considerable amount of timber, mostly Cottonwood. Given the amount of water provided by this river, it likely waters a vast area of land; it may also offer a feasible and beneficial route to the Saskatchewan River. It is large enough to suggest that it could connect with that river, depending on its direction. The water of this river has a unique milky whiteness, resembling a cup of tea with a tablespoon of milk added. Due to the color of its water, we named it Milk River. (We think it’s possible this might be the river referred to by the Minitares as the river that scalds all others or ____.) Captain Clark, who walked this morning along the left shore, climbed a very high point across from the mouth of this river. He reported that he had a clear view of the river and the surrounding countryside for a considerable distance (probably 50 or 60 miles), noting that the land was flat and beautiful on both sides, with large herds of buffalo scattered throughout. The river flows northwest for 12 or 15 miles before it forks, with one branch going nearly north and the other to the northwest. Judging by the appearance of the valleys and the timber along each of these streams, Captain C. believed they were about the same size. There is a strong presence of beaver in this river, and I’m sure they are abundant, given the plentiful cottonwood and willow, the main food sources for them. The land on the left side of the river consists of mostly high, broken hills, with grey, black, and brown granite scattered densely on the surface. Wild licorice grows abundantly on the sides of these hills. A short distance from the river, there is no timber visible on either bank; the floodplains are only about one-fifth covered with timber; as mentioned earlier, the timber is restricted to the riverbanks. In future references, please note that there is no timber of any kind on the uplands unless specifically mentioned, and that having one-fifth of the floodplains covered with timber is considered a large proportion. The white apple is extremely abundant in this area; it primarily grows in the highlands. The white apple, as called by the French trappers, is a plant that grows about 6 to 9 inches tall, rarely exceeding a foot. It typically produces one to four stalks from the same root, but is most commonly found with just one, which is branched but not overly so, cylindrical, and covered with fine hairs; the leaf stalks are also cylindrical, hairy, and quite long relative to the plant's height, gradually becoming shorter as they rise and are irregular in position. The leaves, which are usually from three to five in number, are oval, about 1 inch long, completely smooth, and cottony; the entire plant is pale green except for the underside of the leaves, which are white due to the cottony substance covering them. The root is a tuberous bulb, typically oval-shaped, sometimes longer, and rarely partially divided or branching; it is always accompanied by one or more roots at the lower end, which extend downwards 4 to 6 inches. The bulb is covered with a rough, black, tough, thin skin that easily separates from the bulb, which consists of a fine white substance that is somewhat porous, spongy, and moist, and rather tough before it’s cooked; the center of the bulb contains a small tough string or ligament that runs from the bottom of the stem to the tip of the root, which is also covered by an extension of the skin that wraps around the bulb. The bulb is usually found at a depth of 4 inches and often deeper. This root is a significant food source for the Indians of the Missouri, who prepare it in various ways. It is considered good year-round but is best from mid-July to late autumn, when the more resourceful natives gather it for their winter supplies. After collecting, they strip off the skin and string them on small threads or cords to dry in the sun or over their fires; when dried well, they can last for several years if kept dry. In this state, they often pound the roots between two stones laid on a piece of parchment until reduced to a fine powder; they use this powder to thicken their soups. Sometimes, they also boil these dried roots with their meat without breaking them; when fresh, they are usually boiled with meat, sometimes mashed or prepared in other ways that they prefer. They also make a tasty dish by boiling and mashing the roots, adding buffalo marrow grease and some berries until the mix reaches the consistency of a thick pudding. They also eat this root roasted and occasionally make hearty meals by consuming it raw without experiencing any adverse effects. Both white and brown bears feed heavily on this root, which their claws easily help them to dig up. To me, the white apple seems like a tasteless, bland food, but I have no doubt it is very healthy and moderately nutritious. I am certain our food enthusiasts would appreciate this root a lot; it could serve as a substitute for truffles in their dishes and gravies.
We saw a great number buffaloe, Elk, common and Black taled deer, goats beaver and wolves. Capt C. killed a beaver and a wolf, the party killed 3 beaver and a deer. We can send out at any time and obtain whatever species of meat the country affords in as large quantity as we wish. we saw where an Indian had recently grained, or taken the hair off of a goatskin; we do not wish to see those gentlemen just now as we presume they would most probably be the Assinniboins and might be troublesome to us. Capt C. could not be certain but thought he saw the smoke and some Indian lodges at a considrable distance up Milk river.
We saw a lot of buffalo, elk, common and black-tailed deer, goats, beavers, and wolves. Captain C. killed a beaver and a wolf, and the team caught 3 beavers and a deer. We can easily send out for whatever type of meat is available in the area, and we can get as much as we want. We noticed where an Indian had recently processed a goat skin by removing the hair; we’d prefer to avoid any encounters with them right now since they are likely Assiniboins and could pose issues for us. Captain C. wasn't sure, but he thought he saw smoke and some Indian lodges at a considerable distance up the Milk River.
[Clark, May 8, 1805]
May the 8th Wednesday 1805 a verry black Cloud to the S W. we Set out under a gentle breeze from the N. E. about 8 oClock began to rain, but not Sufficient to wet, we passed the mouth of a large river on the Starboard Side 150 yards wide and appears to be navagable. the Countrey thro which it passes as far as Could be seen from the top of a verry high hill on which I was, a butifull leavil plain this river forks about N W from its mouth 12 or 15 miles one fork runs from the North & the other to the West of N W. the water of this river will justify a belief that it has its Sourse at a considerable distance, and waters a great extent of Countrey—we are willing to believe that this is the River the Minitarres Call the river which Scolds at all others
May 8th, Wednesday, 1805. A very dark cloud to the southwest. We set out with a light breeze from the northeast. Around 8 o'clock, it started to rain, but not enough to get us wet. We passed the mouth of a large river on our right side, about 150 yards wide and seems navigable. The area it flows through, as far as I could see from the top of a very tall hill I was on, is a beautiful, level plain. This river forks about northwest from its mouth, 12 to 15 miles in. One fork flows north, and the other goes west-northwest. The water of this river suggests that it comes from quite a distance and drains a large area. We believe this is the river the Minitarres call the river that scolds all others.
the Countrey on the Lard. Side is high & broken with much Stone Scattered on the hills, In walking on Shore with the Interpreter & his wife, the Squar Geathered on the Sides of the hills wild Lickerish, & the white apple as called by the angegies and gave me to eat, the Indians of the Missouri make great use of the white apple dressed in different ways—Saw great numbers of Buffalow, Elk, antelope & Deer, also black tale deer beaver & wolves, I killed a beaver which I found on the bank, & a wolf. The party killed 3 Beaver 1 Deer I saw where an Indian had taken the hair off a goat Skin a fiew days past—Camped early on the Lard. Side. The river we passed today we call Milk river from the peculiar whiteness of it's water, which precisely resembles tea with a considerable mixture of milk.
The countryside on the river's bank is high and rocky, with lots of stones scattered on the hills. While walking along the shore with the interpreter and his wife, the square gathered wild licorice on the slopes, as well as the white apple, which the angels call it, and gave it to me to eat. The Missouri Indians make great use of the white apple, preparing it in different ways. I saw a large number of buffalo, elk, antelope, and deer, as well as black-tailed deer, beavers, and wolves. I killed a beaver that I found on the bank and also took down a wolf. The group harvested 3 beavers and 1 deer. I noticed where an Indian had stripped the hair off a goat skin a few days ago. We camped early on the riverbank. The river we passed today, we named Milk River because of the unique whiteness of its water, which closely resembles tea mixed with a good amount of milk.
[Lewis, May 9, 1805]
Thursday May 9th 1805. Set out at an early hour; the wind being favourable we used our sails and proceeded very well; the country in appearance is much as yester, with this difference that the land appears more fertile particularly of the Lard. hills which are not so stoney and less broken; the timber has also in some measure declined in quantity. today we passed the bed of the most extraordinary river that I ever beheld. it is as wide as the Missouri is at this place or 1/2 a mile wide and not containing a single drop of runing water; some small standing pools being all the water that could be per-ceived. it falls in on the Lard. side. I walked up this river about three miles and ascended an eminence from which I could perceive it many miles; it's course about South for 10 or 12 miles, when it viered around to the E of S. E. as far as I could see. the valley of this river is wide and possesses but a scanty proportion of timber; the hills which border it are not very high nor is the country very broken; it is what may properly be designated a wavy or roling country intersperced with some handsom level plains. the bank are low and abbrupt, seldom more than 6 or eight feet above the level of the bed, yet show but little appearance of being overflown; they are of black or yellow clay or a rich sandy loam. the bed is entirely composed of a light brown sand the particles of which as well as that of the Missoury are remarkably fine. this river I presume must extend back as far as the black hills and probably is the channel through which a great extent of plain country discharge their superfluous waters in the spring season. it had the appearance of having recently discharged it's waters; and from the watermark, it did not appear that it had been more than 2 feet deep at it's greatest hight. This stream (if such it can properly be termed) we called Big dry river. about a mile below this river on the same side a large creek falls in also dry at present. The mineral salts and quarts appear in large quantities in this neighbourhood. the sand of the Missouri from it's mouth to this place has always possessed a mixture of granulated talk or I now think most probably that it is this quarts. Capt C. killed 2 bucks and 2 buffaloe, I also killed one buffaloe which proved to be the best meat, it was in tolerable order; we saved the best of the meat, and from the cow I killed we saved the necessary materials for making what our wrighthand cook Charbono calls the boudin blanc, and immediately set him about preparing them for supper; this white pudding we all esteem one of the greatest delacies of the forrest, it may not be amiss therefore to give it a place. About 6 feet of the lower extremity of the large gut of the Buffaloe is the first mosel that the cook makes love to, this he holds fast at one end with the right hand, while with the forefinger and thumb of the left he gently compresses it, and discharges what he says is not good to eat, but of which in the squel we get a moderate portion; the mustle lying underneath the shoulder blade next to the back, and fillets are next saught, these are needed up very fine with a good portion of kidney suit; to this composition is then added a just proportion of pepper and salt and a small quantity of flour; thus far advanced, our skilfull opporater C-o seizes his recepticle, which has never once touched the water, for that would intirely distroy the regular order of the whole procedure; you will not forget that the side you now see is that covered with a good coat of fat provided the anamal be in good order; the operator sceizes the recepticle I say, and tying it fast at one end turns it inwards and begins now with repeated evolutions of the hand and arm, and a brisk motion of the finger and thumb to put in what he says is bon pour manger; thus by stuffing and compressing he soon distends the recepticle to the utmost limmits of it's power of expansion, and in the course of it's longtudinal progress it drives from the other end of the recepticle a much larger portion of the ____ than was prevously discharged by the finger and thumb of the left hand in a former part of the operation; thus when the sides of the recepticle are skilfully exchanged the outer for the iner, and all is compleatly filled with something good to eat, it is tyed at the other end, but not any cut off, for that would make the pattern too scant; it is then baptised in the missouri with two dips and a flirt, and bobbed into the kettle; from whence after it be well boiled it is taken and fryed with bears oil untill it becomes brown, when it is ready to esswage the pangs of a keen appetite or such as travelers in the wilderness are seldom at a loss for.
Thursday, May 9th, 1805. We set out early; the wind was favorable, so we used our sails and made good progress. The landscape looks much the same as yesterday, with the distinction that the land appears more fertile, especially on the left hills, which are less rocky and less rugged. The amount of timber has also somewhat decreased. Today, we came across the bed of the most extraordinary river I have ever seen. It is as wide as the Missouri here, about half a mile across, but there isn’t a single drop of running water—just a few small standing pools were visible. It flows in from the left side. I walked up this river for about three miles and climbed a hill from which I could see it for many miles; its course goes south for 10 or 12 miles before it bends to the southeast as far as I could see. The valley of this river is wide but has a sparse amount of timber; the hills bordering it aren’t very high, and the country isn’t very rugged; it's what you might call a wavy or rolling landscape, interspersed with some nice flat plains. The banks are low and steep, rarely more than 6 or 8 feet above the riverbed, yet they show little sign of flooding; they consist of black or yellow clay or rich sandy loam. The riverbed is entirely made up of a light brown sand, the grains of which, like those of the Missouri, are remarkably fine. I assume this river must extend back toward the Black Hills and probably serves as a channel through which a large area of flat land drains its excess water in the spring. It seemed to have recently released its waters; based on the watermark, it didn’t look like it had been deeper than 2 feet at its highest. We named this stream Big Dry River. About a mile downstream on the same side, a large creek also flows in, but it’s dry at present. Mineral salts and quartz are found in large quantities around here. The sand of the Missouri, from its mouth to this point, has always had a mix of granulated talc, or I now think it’s probably quartz. Captain C. killed 2 bucks and 2 buffalo; I also killed one buffalo, which turned out to be the best meat, in decent condition. We saved the best of the meat, and from the cow I killed, we saved what we needed to make what our cook Charbono calls boudin blanc and immediately put him to work preparing it for supper. This white pudding is considered one of the greatest delicacies in the forest, so it deserves a mention. About 6 feet of the lower end of the buffalo's intestines is the first part the cook prepares; he holds one end firmly with his right hand while gently squeezing it with the fingers of his left hand to expel what he says isn’t good to eat, although we get a fair bit of it in the process. The muscle beneath the shoulder blade next to the back and the fillets are next on his list; these are chopped very fine with a good amount of kidney fat. Then, he adds just the right amount of pepper and salt, along with a small quantity of flour. Having reached this point, our skilled operator C-o grabs his container, which has never touched the water because that would completely ruin the whole process. You won’t forget that the side you see is covered with a good coat of fat if the animal is in good shape; the operator ties off one end of the container and turns it inside out, then begins to use his hand and arm with quick movements of his fingers and thumb to stuff in what he says is good to eat. By stuffing and compressing, he soon expands the container to the maximum of its capacity, and as it stretches lengthwise, it pushes out a much larger portion from the other end than was previously released by the squeeze of his fingers. Once the container is skillfully flipped inside out and filled completely, it is tied at the other end, but nothing is cut off, as that would make it too sparse. It is then dipped twice in the Missouri and placed into the kettle; after it is well boiled, it is taken out and fried in bear oil until brown, making it ready to satisfy the keen appetites that travelers in the wilderness often experience.
we saw a great quantity of game today particularly of Elk and Buffaloe, the latter are now so gentle that the men frequently throw sticks and stones at them in order to drive them out of the way. we also saw this evening emence quantities of timber cut by the beaver which appeared to have been done the preceeding year, in place particularly they had cut all the timber down for three acres in front and on nearly one back from the river and had removed a considerable proportion of it, the timber grew very thick and some of it was as large as a man's body. the river for several days has been as wide as it is generally near it's mouth, tho it is much shallower or I should begin to dispair of ever reaching it's source; it has been crouded today with many sandbars; the water also appears to become clearer, it has changed it's complexin very considerably. I begin to feel extreemly anxious to get in view of the rocky mountains.
We saw a large amount of game today, especially elk and buffalo. The buffalo have become so tame that the men often throw sticks and stones at them to get them out of the way. This evening, we also noticed a huge amount of timber cut by beavers, which seemed to have been done the previous year. In some places, they had cleared all the timber over three acres in front and nearly one acre back from the river, and they had removed a significant portion of it. The trees were very thick, with some as large as a man's body. The river has been as wide as it usually is near its mouth for several days, although it is much shallower, or else I would be starting to lose hope of ever reaching its source. It has been crowded today with many sandbars, and the water also appears to be getting clearer; its complexion has changed quite a bit. I'm starting to feel extremely anxious to catch a glimpse of the Rocky Mountains.
I killed four plover this evening of a different species from any I have yet seen; it resembles the grey or whistling plover more than any other of this family of birds; it is about the size of the yellow legged or large grey plover common to the lower part of this river as well as most parts of the Atlantic States where they are sometimes called the Jack curloo; the eye is moderately large, are black with a narrow ring of dark yellowish brown; the head, neck, upper part of the body and coverts of the wings are of a dove coloured brown, which when the bird is at rest is the predominant colour; the brest and belley are of a brownish white; the tail is composed of 12 feathers of 3 Ins. being of equal length, of these the two in the center are black, with traverse bars of yellowish brown; the others are a brownish white. the large feathers of the wings are white tiped with blacked. the beak is black, 21/2 inches in length, slightly tapering, streight of a cilindric form and blontly or roundly pointed; the chaps are of equal length, and nostrils narrow. longitudional and connected; the feet and legs are smoth and of a greenish brown; has three long toes and a short one on each foot, the long toes are unconnected with a web, and the short one is placed very high up the leg behind, insomuch that it dose not touch the ground when the bird stands erect. the notes of this bird are louder and more various than any other of this family that I have seen.
I killed four plovers this evening that belong to a different species than any I've seen before; they resemble the gray or whistling plover more than any other bird in this family. They are about the size of the yellow-legged or large gray plover, which is common in the lower part of this river as well as in most parts of the Atlantic States, where they are sometimes called the Jack curlew. The eyes are moderately large, black with a narrow ring of dark yellowish-brown; the head, neck, upper body, and wing coverts are a dove-colored brown, which is the main color when the bird is at rest; the breast and belly are a brownish-white. The tail consists of 12 feathers, each about 3 inches long and equal in length—of these, the two in the center are black with transverse bars of yellowish-brown, while the others are brownish-white. The large feathers of the wings are white tipped with black. The beak is black, 2.5 inches long, slightly tapering, straight, cylindrical in shape, and bluntly or roundly pointed; the jaws are of equal length, and the nostrils are narrow, longitudinal, and connected. The feet and legs are smooth and a greenish-brown; there are three long toes and one short toe on each foot, with the long toes unconnected by webbing, and the short toe positioned very high up the leg behind, so it doesn't touch the ground when the bird stands upright. The notes of this bird are louder and more varied than any other in this family that I’ve encountered.
[Clark, May 9, 1805]
May 9th Thursday 1805 a fine Day wind from the East we proceeded on verry well the Countrey much the appearance which it had yesterday the bottom & high land rich black earth, Timber not so abondant as below, we passed the mouth of a river (or the appearance of a river) on the Lard. Side the bend of which as far as we went up it or could See from a high hill is as large as that of the Missouri at this place which is near half a mile this river did not Contain one drop of running water, about a mile below this river a large Creeke joins the river L. S. which is also Dry- Those dry Streams which are also verry wide, I think is the Conveyance of the melted Snow, & heavy rains which is Probable fall in from the high mountanious Countrey which is Said to be between this river & the Yellow Stone river—I walked on Shore the fore part of this day, & observed Great quantities of the Shining Stone which we view as quarts, I killed 2 Bucks & a Buffalow, Capt Lewis also killed one which verry good meat, I saw emunerable herds of buffalow, & goats to day in every derection—The Missouri keeps its width which is nearly as wide as near its mouth, great number of Sand bars, the water not So muddy & Sand finer & in Smaller perpotion. Capt. Lewis killed 4 pleaver different from any I have ever before Seen, larger & have white breast & the underfeathers of the wings are white &c.
May 9th, Thursday, 1805 – a beautiful day with an east wind. We made good progress as the landscape looked much like it did yesterday, with rich black soil and less timber compared to lower areas. We passed what appeared to be the mouth of a river on the left side; the bend of it, as far as we went or could see from a high hill, is as wide as the Missouri River at this point, which is nearly half a mile across. However, this river didn’t have any running water. About a mile downstream, a large creek joins the left side of the river, and it was also dry. I think these dry streams, which are quite wide, are likely pathways for melted snow and heavy rains that probably come from the high mountainous area said to be between this river and the Yellowstone River. I walked onshore for part of the day and noticed many shiny stones that we identified as quartz. I hunted and killed two bucks and a buffalo, and Captain Lewis also killed one, which was very good meat. I saw countless herds of buffalo and goats in every direction. The Missouri maintains its width, which is almost as wide as near its mouth, with many sandbars. The water is less muddy, and the sand is finer and in smaller quantities. Captain Lewis shot four plovers that I’ve never seen before; they are larger and have white breasts, and the under feathers of their wings are white as well.
[Lewis, May 9, 1805]
May 9th 1805. I killed four plover this evening of a different kind from any I have yet seen. it resembles the grey or whistling plover more than any other of this family of birds, tho it is much larger. it is about the size of the yellow leged plover common to the U States, and called the jack curlooe by some. the legs are of a greenish brown; the toes, three and one high at the heel unconnected with a webb, the breast and belly of a brownish white; the head neck upper part of the body and coverts of the wings are of a dove colured brown which when the bird is at rest is the predomanent colour. the tale has 12 feathers of the same length of which the two in the center are black with transverse bars of yellowish bron, the others are a brownish white. the large feathers of the wings are white tiped with black. the eyes are black with a small ring of dark yellowish brown—the beak is black, 21/2 inches long, cilindrical, streight, and roundly or blountly pointed. the notes of this bird are louder and more various than of any other species which I have seen.-
May 9th, 1805. I killed four plovers this evening that are different from any I've seen before. They resemble the gray or whistling plover more than any other in this family, but they're much larger. They're about the size of the yellow-legged plover found in the U.S., which some people call the jack curlew. The legs are a greenish-brown; the toes are three plus one high up at the heel and not connected by a web. The breast and belly are a brownish-white; the head, neck, upper body, and wing coverts are a dove-colored brown, which is the dominant color when the bird is resting. The tail has 12 feathers of the same length, with the two center ones being black and having yellowish-brown bars, while the others are a brownish-white. The large wing feathers are white tipped with black. The eyes are black with a small ring of dark yellowish-brown—the beak is black, 2.5 inches long, cylindrical, straight, and rounded at the tip. The calls of this bird are louder and more varied than any other species I've encountered.
[Lewis, May 10, 1805]
Friday May 10th 1805. Set out at sunrise and proceeded but a short distance ere the wind became so violent that we were obliged to come too, which we did on the Lard. side in a suddon or short bend of the river where we were in a great measure sheltered from the effects of the wind. the wind continued violent all day, the clouds were thick and black, had a slight sprinkle of rain several times in the course of the day. we sent out several hunters to scower the country, to this we were induced not so much from the want of provision as to discover the Indians whome we had reasons to believe were in the neighbourhood, from the circumstance of one of their dogs comeing to us this morning shortly after we landed; we still beleive ourselves in the country usually hunted by the Assinniboins, and as they are a vicious illy disposed nation we think it best to be on our guard, accordingly we inspected the arms and accoutrements the party and found them all in good order. The hunters returned this evening having seen no tents or Indians nor any fresh sign of them; they killed two Mule deer, one common fallow or longtailed deer, 2 Buffaloe and 5 beaver, and saw several deer of the Mule kind of immence size, and also three of the Bighorned anamals. from the appearance of the Mule deer and the bighorned anamals we beleive ourselves fast approaching a hilly or mountainous country; we have rarely found the mule deer in any except a rough country; they prefer the open grounds and are seldom found in the woodlands near the river; when they are met with in the woodlands or river bottoms and are pursued, they invariably run to the hills or open country as the Elk do. the contrary happens with the common deer ther are several esscential differences between the Mule and common deer as well in form as in habits. they are fully a third larger in general, and the male is particularly large; I think there is somewhat greater disparity of size between the male and female of this speceis than there is between the male and female fallow deer; I am convinced I have seen a buck of this species twice the volume of a buck of any other species. the ears are peculiarly large; I measured those of a large buck which I found to be eleven inches long and 31/2 in width at the widest part; they are not so delicately formed, their hair in winter is thicker longer and of a much darker grey, in summer the hair is still coarser longer and of a paleer red, more like that of the Elk; in winter they also have a considerable quantity of a very fine wool intermixed with the hair and lying next to the skin as the Antelope has. the long hair which grows on the outer sides of the 1st joint of the hinder legs, and which in the common deer do not usually occupy more than 2 inches in them occupys from 6 to eight; their horns also differ, these in the common deer consist of two main beams from which one or more points project the beam graduly deminishing as the points procede from it, with the mule deer the horns consist of two beams which at the distance of 4 or 6 inches from the head divide themselves each into two equal branches which again either divide into two other equal branches or terminate in a smaller, and two equal ones; having either 2 4 or 6 points on a beam; the horn is not so rough about the base as the common deer and are invariably of a much darker colour. the most striking difference of all, is the white rump and tale. from the root of the tail as a center there is a circular spot perfectly white, of abot 3 inches radius, which occupys a part of the rump and extremitys of the buttocks and joins the white of the belley underneath; the tail which is usually from 8 to 9 inches long, for the first 4 or 5 inches from it's upper extremity is covered with short white hairs, much shorter indeed than the hairs of the body; from hence for about one inch further the hair is still white but gradually becomes longer, the tail then terminates in a tissue of black hair of about 3 Inches long. from this black hair of the tail they have obtained among the French engages the appelation of the black taled deer, but this I conceive by no means characteristic of the anamal as much the larger portion of the tail is white. the year and the tail of this anamal when compared with those of the common (leer, so well comported with those of the mule when compared with the horse, that we have by way of distinction adapted the appellation of the mule deer which I think much more appropriate. on the inner corner of each eye there is a drane or large recepicle which seems to answer as a drane to the eye which gives it the appearance of weeping, this in the common deer of the atlantic states is scarcely perceptable but becomes more conspicuous in the fallow deer, and still more so in the Elk; this recepticle in the Elk is larger than in any of the pecora order with which I am acquainted.
Friday, May 10th, 1805. We set out at sunrise and traveled only a short distance before the wind became so strong that we had to stop. We anchored on the left bank in a sudden bend of the river where we were mostly sheltered from the wind. The wind remained strong all day, the clouds were thick and dark, and we had a light rain several times throughout the day. We sent out several hunters to explore the area, not so much because we were lacking food, but to find the Indians we believed were nearby, as one of their dogs came to us shortly after we landed this morning. We still think we're in the territory usually hunted by the Assinniboins, and since they are a hostile and ill-disposed nation, we feel it’s best to stay vigilant. So, we checked the arms and gear of the party and found everything in good condition. The hunters returned this evening having seen no tents, Indians, or fresh signs of them; they killed two mule deer, one common fallow or long-tailed deer, two buffaloes, and five beavers, and saw several extremely large mule deer and three bighorned animals. Based on the appearance of the mule deer and the bighorned animals, we believe we are nearing a hilly or mountainous region; we usually only find mule deer in rough areas. They tend to prefer open grounds and are rarely seen in the forests near the river; when they are found in woodlands or river bottoms and are chased, they always run to the hills or open country like elk do. The opposite is true for common deer. There are several essential differences between mule and common deer in both form and habits. Generally, mule deer are about a third larger, and the males are particularly large. I think there’s a greater size difference between male and female mule deer than there is between male and female fallow deer; I am convinced I have seen a buck of this species that was twice the volume of a buck from any other species. Their ears are particularly large; I measured those of a large buck and found them to be eleven inches long and three and a half inches wide at the widest part. They are not as delicately formed, and their winter fur is thicker, longer, and a much darker gray; in summer, the fur is coarser, longer, and a lighter red, more like that of an elk. In winter, they also have quite a bit of fine wool mixed in with the hair, lying close to the skin like the antelope. The long hair on the outer sides of the first joint of their hind legs, which is usually no more than two inches on common deer, occupies six to eight inches on mule deer. Their antlers also differ; the antlers of common deer consist of two main beams with one or more points projecting from them, and the beam gradually diminishes as the points extend from it. In mule deer, the antlers consist of two beams that split into two equal branches about four to six inches from the head, which may either divide again or end in smaller ones, having two, four, or six points on a beam. The base of the horn is not as rough as that of common deer and is invariably a much darker color. The most striking difference of all is the white rump and tail. From the base of the tail as a center, there’s a perfectly white circular patch about three inches in radius, which occupies part of the rump and extends to the buttocks, connecting to the white of the belly underneath. The tail, which is usually eight to nine inches long, has short white hairs for the first four or five inches from its upper end, much shorter than the hair on the body. The hair remains white for about an inch further, becoming progressively longer, concluding with a tuft of black hair about three inches long. The French fur trappers have given them the name "black-tailed deer," but I think this is not a fitting name since much of the tail is white. The ears and tail of this animal, when compared with those of common deer, align so well with those of the mule when compared to horses, that we’ve adopted the name "mule deer," which I find much more suitable. On the inner corner of each eye, there is a drain or large receptacle that seems to function as a drain for the eye, giving it a weeping appearance; this feature in common deer of the Atlantic states is hardly noticeable but becomes more prominent in fallow deer and even more so in elk. This receptacle in elk is larger than in any of the other members of the Pecora order that I am familiar with.
Boils and imposthumes have been very common with the party Bratton is now unable to work with one on his hand; soar eyes continue also to be common to all of us in a greater or less degree. for the imposthume I use emmolient poltices, and for soar eyes a solution of white vitriol and the sugar of lead in the proportion of 2 grs. of the former and one of the latter to each ounce of water.
Boils and abscesses have been very common with the group, and Bratton is now unable to work with one on his hand; sore eyes also seem to affect all of us to varying degrees. For the abscess, I use soothing poultices, and for sore eyes, I prepare a solution of white vitriol and lead acetate in the ratio of 2 grams of the former and 1 gram of the latter to each ounce of water.
[Clark, May 10, 1805]
May the 10th Friday 1805 river fell 3/4 of an inch last night, wind from the N. W, we proceeded on but a short distance e'r'e the wind became So violent we could not proceed came to on the Lard. Side in a Short bend, the wind Continued all day Several times in the course of the day We had some fiew drops of rain from verry black Clouds, no thunder or lightning latterly, Soon after we landed a Dog came to us from the opposit Side, which induced a belief that we had not passd. the Assinniboin Indians, parties wer Sent on the hills in different derections to examine but Saw no tents or fresh Sign. examined the arms &c. of the party found all in good order. Three mule deer, two Buffalow & 5 beaver killed, 3 of the mountain ram Seen.
May 10th, Friday, 1805 - The river dropped ¾ of an inch last night, and the wind was coming from the northwest. We moved on, but only for a short distance before the wind got so strong we couldn't go any further, so we stopped on the left side in a small bend. The wind kept up all day, and several times we had a few drops of rain from very dark clouds, but there was no thunder or lightning afterward. Soon after we landed, a dog came over to us from the opposite side, leading us to believe we hadn’t passed the Assinniboin Indians. We sent parties up the hills in different directions to scout, but they didn’t see any tents or fresh signs. We checked the arms and equipment of the group and found everything in good condition. We killed three mule deer, two buffalo, and five beavers, and we saw three mountain rams.
[Lewis, May 11, 1805]
Saturday May 11th 1805. Set out this morning at an early hour, the courant strong; and river very crooked; the banks are falling in very fast; I sometimes wonder that some of our canoes or perogues are not swallowed up by means of these immence masses of earth which are eternally precipitating themselves into the river; we have had many hair breadth escapes from them but providence seems so to have ordered it that we have as yet sustained no loss in consequence of them. The wind blue very hard the forepart of last night but abated toward morning; it again arose in the after part of this day and retarded our progress very much. the high lands are broken, the hills higher and approach nearer the river, tho the soil of both hills and bottoms appear equally as furtile as below; it consists of a black looking tome with a moderate portion of sand; the hills and bluffs to the debth of 20 or thirty feet, seemed to be composed entirely of this loam; when thrown in the water it desolves as readily as loaf sugar and effervesses like marle. great appearance of quarts and mineral salts, the latter appears both on the hills and bottoms, in the bottoms of the gullies which make down from the hills it lies incrusting the earth to the debth of 2 or 3 inches, and may with a fether be swept up and collected in large quantities, I preserved several specimines of this salts. the quarts appears most commonly in the faces of the bluffs. no coal, burnt hills, or pumice stone. saw today some high hills on the Stard. whose summits were covered with pine. Capt Clark went on shore and visited them; he brought with him on his return som of the boughs of this pine it is of the pitch kind but I think the leaves somewhat longer than ours in Virginia. Capt C. also in his walk killed 2 Mule deer a beaver and two buffaloe; these last he killed about 3 miles above where we encamped this evening in the expectation that we would reach that place, but we were unable to do so from the adverse winds and other occurrences, and he came down and joined us about dark. there is a dwarf cedar growing among the pine on the hills; it rises to the hight thre sometimes 4 feet, but most generally spreads itself like a vine along the surface of the earth, which it covers very closely, puting out roots from the underside of the limbs; the leaf is finer and more delicate than the common red ceader, it's fruit and smell are the same with the red ceader. the tops of these hills which produce the pine and cedar is of a different soil from that just described; it is a light coloured poor sterile sandy soil, the base usually a yellow or white clay; it produces scarcely any grass, some scattering tuffts of sedge constitutes the greater part of it's grass. About 5 P.M. my attention was struck by one of the Party runing at a distance towards us and making signs and hollowing as if in distress, I ordered the perogues to put too, and waited untill he arrived; I now found that it was Bratton the man with the soar hand whom I had permitted to walk on shore, he arrived so much out of breath that it was several minutes before he could tell what had happened; at length he informed me that in the woody bottom on the Lard. side about 11/2 below us he had shot a brown bear which immediately turned on him and pursued him a considerable distance but he had wounded it so badly that it could not overtake him; I immediately turned out with seven of the party in quest of this monster, we at length found his trale and persued him about a mile by the blood through very thick brush of rosbushes and the large leafed willow; we finally found him concealed in some very thick brush and shot him through the skull with two balls; we proceeded dress him as soon as possible, we found him in good order; it was a monstrous beast, not quite so large as that we killed a few days past but in all other rispects much the same the hair is remarkably long fine and rich tho he appears parshally to have discharged his winter coat; we now found that Bratton had shot him through the center of the lungs, notwithstanding which he had pursued him near half a mile and had returned more than double that distance and with his tallons had prepared himself a bed in the earth of about 2 feet deep and five long and was perfectly alive when we found him which could not have been less than 2 hours after he received the wound; these bear being so hard to die reather intimedates us all; I must confess that I do not like the gentlemen and had reather fight two Indians than one bear; there is no other chance to conquer them by a single shot but by shooting them through the brains, and this becomes difficult in consequence of two large muscles which cover the sides of the forehead and the sharp projection of the center of the frontal bone, which is also of a pretty good thickness. the flece and skin were as much as two men could possibly carry. by the time we returned the sun had set and I determined to remain here all night, and directed the cooks to render the bear's oil and put it in the kegs which was done. there was about eight gallons of it.
Saturday, May 11, 1805. We set out this morning early; the current was strong and the river very winding. The banks are collapsing quickly; I often wonder how some of our canoes or boats don’t get swallowed by these massive chunks of earth constantly falling into the river. We’ve had many close calls, but it seems like fate has kept us safe so far. The wind blew hard last night but calmed down in the morning; it picked up again later in the day and really slowed us down. The highlands are rougher, with taller hills that come closer to the river, though the soil on both the hills and lowlands looks just as fertile as below. It’s a black-looking loam with a decent amount of sand; the hills and bluffs go down about 20 to 30 feet and seem entirely made of this loam. When it hits the water, it dissolves instantly, much like sugar, and fizzes like marl. There’s a lot of quartz and mineral salts around, which you can see both on the hills and in the valleys; in the valleys of the gullies coming down from the hills, it crusts the earth to a depth of 2 or 3 inches and can be easily swept up in large amounts. I kept several samples of these salts. The quartz is most commonly found on the faces of the bluffs. There’s no coal, burnt hills, or pumice stone. Today, we saw tall hills on the starboard side, their tops covered with pine trees. Captain Clark went ashore to check them out; he returned with some branches from this type of pine, which is the pitch kind, though I think the needles are slightly longer than those in Virginia. While walking, Captain Clark also killed 2 mule deer, a beaver, and two buffalo; he shot the buffalo about 3 miles upstream from where we camped this evening, expecting we would reach that spot, but we couldn’t due to the strong winds and other events, so he came back and joined us around dusk. There’s a dwarf cedar growing among the pines on the hills; it grows to heights of three to four feet but mostly spreads like a vine along the ground, closely covering it and sending out roots from the underside of its limbs. The leaves are finer and more delicate than those of the common red cedar, but its fruit and smell are the same. The tops of the hills that produce the pine and cedar have a different kind of soil than what I described earlier; it’s a light-colored, poor, sterile sandy soil, with a base usually of yellow or white clay. It hardly produces any grass; just a few scattered tufts of sedge make up most of the grass. Around 5 P.M., I noticed one of the crew running toward us in the distance, making signs and shouting as if in distress. I ordered the boats to stop and waited for him to arrive; I soon found out it was Bratton, the man with the sore hand whom I let walk onshore. He was so out of breath that it took him several minutes to explain what had happened; eventually, he told me that in the wooded bottomland on the left side, about a mile and a half below us, he had shot a brown bear, which immediately turned on him and chased him for quite a distance, but he had wounded it badly enough that it couldn’t catch him. I quickly gathered seven men to go after this beast. We finally picked up its trail and followed the blood about a mile through thick brush and large-leafed willow. We eventually found it hidden in some really dense brush and shot it in the skull with two bullets. We skinned it as soon as we could; it was in good condition. It was a huge animal, not quite as large as the one we killed a few days ago but similar in every other way. Its fur was remarkably long, fine, and rich, although it seemed to have partially shed its winter coat. We discovered Bratton had shot it through its lungs, yet it had managed to chase him for almost half a mile and had returned over double that distance, digging itself a bed in the ground about 2 feet deep and 5 feet long, and it was still alive when we found it, which was at least 2 hours after he shot it. Bears are so tough that they intimidate all of us; I have to admit I would prefer to fight two Indians rather than one bear. The only way to take them down is with a single bullet to the brain, but this is tough because of the large muscles covering the sides of the forehead and the sharp ridge in the center of the frontal bone, which is also quite thick. The pelt and skin were too heavy for two men to carry. By the time we got back, the sun had set, and I decided we would stay here for the night. I directed the cooks to render the bear's fat and put it into the barrels, which they did; there was about eight gallons of it.
the wild Hysop grows here and in all the country through which we have passed for many days past; tho from big Dry river to this place it has been more abundant than below, and a smaller variety of it grows on the hills, the leaves of which differ considerably being more deeply indented near it's extremity. the buffaloe deer and Elk feed on this herb in the winter season as they do also on the small willow of the sandbars. there is another growth that begins now to make it's appearance in the bottom lands and is becoming extreemly troublesome; it is a shrub which rises to the hight of from two to four feet, much branched, the bark of the trunk somewhat rough hard and of light grey colour; the wood is firm and stif, the branches beset with a great number of long, shap, strong, wooddy looking thorns; the leaf is about 3/4 or an inch long, and one 1/8 of an inch wide, it is obtuse, absolutely entire, veinless fleshy and gibbose; has no perceptable taste or smell, and no anamal appears to eat it. by way of designating when I mention it hereafter I shall call it the fleshey leafed thorn
The wild hyssop grows here and throughout the area we’ve been traveling for many days. However, from Big Dry River to this spot, it has been more abundant than further down, and a smaller variety grows on the hills, with leaves that differ quite a bit, being more deeply indented toward the end. The buffalo deer and elk feed on this herb during the winter, just as they do on the small willows along the sandbars. There's another plant that is starting to show up in the bottomlands and is becoming extremely troublesome; it’s a shrub that grows between two to four feet tall, very branched. The bark of the trunk is somewhat rough, hard, and light gray; the wood is firm and stiff, and the branches are covered with numerous long, sharp, strong, woody-looking thorns. The leaves are about three-quarters of an inch long and one-eighth of an inch wide; they are blunt, completely whole, veinless, fleshy, and swollen. They have no noticeable taste or smell, and no animals seem to eat them. To identify it when I mention it again, I’ll refer to it as the fleshy-leafed thorn.
[Clark, May 11, 1805]
May the 11th Satturday 1805. Wind hard fore part of last night the latter part verry Cold a white frost this morning, the river riseing a little and verry Crooked the high land is rugged and approaches nearer than below, the hills and bluff exhibit more mineral quats & Salts than below, the gullies in maney places are white, and their bottoms one, two & 3 Inches deep of this mineral, no appearance of either burnt pumice Stone or Coal, the Countrey hilley on both Sides of a rich black earth, which disolves This kind of Countrey Continues of the Same quallity for maney miles on either Side, we observed Some hills which appeared to be timbered, I walked to this timber and found it to pitch pine & Dwarf Cedar, we observe in every derection Buffalow, Elk, Antelopes & Mule deer inumerable and So jintle that we Could approach near them with great ease, I killed 2 Mule Deer for the benifit of their Skins for the party, and about the place I expected the party would get to Camp I killed 2 fat Bulls for theire use, in my absence they had killed a fine fat Yellow bear below which detained them and they did not reach the place I expected, but had Camped on the Lard. Side about 2 miles below on my return to the party I killed a fat Beaver the wind blew verry hard from the S. W. all the after part of this day which retarded our progress verry much. river rose 2 In
May 11th, Saturday, 1805. The wind was strong last night, and the latter part of the night was very cold, with a white frost this morning. The river is rising a bit and is very crooked. The high land is rugged and comes closer than below. The hills and bluffs show more mineral quartz and salts than further down. In many places, the gullies are white, with their bottoms 1, 2, and 3 inches deep in this mineral. There are no signs of burnt pumice stone or coal. The land is hilly on both sides with rich black earth, which seems consistent in quality for many miles on either side. We noticed some hills that looked like they had timber, so I walked to the timber and found pitch pine and dwarf cedar. We saw buffalo, elk, antelopes, and mule deer in every direction, so numerous and gentle that we could approach them easily. I killed 2 mule deer for their skins for the party, and near the place I thought the party would reach camp, I killed 2 fat bulls for their use. While I was away, they had killed a fine fat yellow bear below, which delayed them, so they didn’t make it to the spot I expected but camped on the left side about 2 miles below. On my way back to the party, I killed a fat beaver. The wind blew very hard from the southwest for the latter part of this day, which greatly slowed our progress. The river rose 2 inches.
[Lewis, May 12, 1805]
Sunday May 12th 1805. Set out at an early hour, the weather clear and Calm; I walked on shore this morning for the benifit of exersize which I much wanted, and also to examine the country and it's productions, in these excurtions I most generally went alone armed with my rifle and espontoon; thus equiped I feel myself more than an equal match for a brown bear provided I get him in open woods or near the water, but feel myself a little diffident with respect to an attack in the open plains, I have therefore come to a resolution to act on the defencive only, should I meet these gentlemen in the open country. I ascended the hills and had a view of a rough and broken country on both sides of the river; on the North side the summits of the hills exhibit some scattering pine and cedar, on the South side the pine has not yet commenced tho there is some cedar on the face of the hills and in the little ravines. the choke cherry also grows here in the hollows and at the heads of the gullies; the choke Cherry has been in blume since the ninth inst. this growth has freequently made it's appearance on the Missouri from the neighbourhood of the Baldpated Prarie, to this place in the form of it's leaf colour and appearance of it's bark, and general figure of it's growth it resembles much the Morillar cherry,1 tho much smaller not generally rising to a greater hight than from 6 to 10 feet and ascociating in thick clusters or clumps in their favorit situations which is usually the heads of small ravines or along the sides of small brooks which flow from the hills. the flowers which are small and white are supported by a common footstalk as those of the common wild cherry are, the corolla consists of five oval petals, five stamen and one pistillum, and of course of the Class and order Pentandria Monogynia. it bears a fruit which much resembles the wild cherry in form and colour tho larger and better flavoured; it's fruit ripens about the begining of July and continues on the trees untill the latter end of September—The Indians of the Missouri make great uce of this cherry which they prepare for food in various ways, sometimes eating when first plucked from the trees or in that state pounding them mashing the seed boiling them with roots or meat, or with the prarie beans and white-apple; again for their winter store they geather them and lay them on skins to dry in the sun, and frequently pound them and make them up in small roles or cakes and dry them in the sun; when thus dryed they fold them in skins or put them in bags of parchment and keep them through the winter either eating them in this state or boiling them as before mentioned. the bear and many birds also feed on these burries. the wild hysop sage, fleshey leaf thorn, and some other herbs also grow in the plains and hills, particularly the arromatic herb on which the Antelope and large hare feed. The soil has now changed it's texture considerably; the base of the hills and river bottoms continue the same and are composed of a rich black loam while the summits of the hills and about half their hight downwards are of a light brown colour, poor sterile and intermixed with a coarse white sand. about 12 OClock the wind veered about to the N. W. and blew so hard that we were obliged to Ly by the ballance of the day. we saw great quantities of game as usual. the bottom lands still becomeing narrower.
Sunday, May 12th, 1805. I set out early this morning; the weather was clear and calm. I walked along the shore for some exercise, which I really needed, and also to explore the land and its resources. Most of the time, I went on these excursions alone, armed with my rifle and espontoon. Equipped this way, I feel more than capable of handling a brown bear, as long as I encounter it in the open woods or near water, but I feel a bit hesitant about facing one in open plains. So, I’ve decided to take a defensive approach if I meet these bears in flat areas. I climbed the hills and got a view of the rugged landscape on both sides of the river. On the north side, the hilltops have some scattered pine and cedar, while on the south side, the pine hasn’t started growing yet, although there are some cedars on the hillsides and in small ravines. Choke cherries also grow here in the depressions and at the ends of the gullies; they have been blooming since the ninth. This plant frequently appears along the Missouri River, from the area around Baldpated Prairie to here, and in terms of leaf color, bark appearance, and overall growth shape, it closely resembles the Morillar cherry, though it’s much smaller, usually only about 6 to 10 feet tall and growing in thick clusters or clumps, especially at the heads of small ravines or alongside little brooks descending from the hills. The small, white flowers sit on a common stalk, similar to those of the wild cherry; they have five oval petals, five stamens, and one pistil, classifying them under Pentandria Monogynia. The fruit looks a lot like wild cherries in shape and color but is larger and tastier; it ripens around early July and stays on the trees until late September. The Indians of the Missouri make great use of these cherries, treating them in various ways for food. They sometimes eat them fresh off the trees or mash the seeds, boil them with roots or meat, or combine them with prairie beans and white-apple. For winter storage, they gather the cherries and lay them on skins to dry in the sun, often pounding them into small rolls or cakes and drying them. When dried, they wrap them in skins or place them in parchment bags to keep through the winter, either eating them as they are or boiling them as mentioned. Bears and many birds also feed on these berries. Wild hyssop, sage, fleshy-leaved thorns, and other herbs grow in the plains and hills, especially the aromatic herb that antelope and large hares eat. The soil has changed quite a bit; the base of the hills and river bottoms remains the same, consisting of rich black loam, while the tops of the hills and about halfway down are lighter brown, poor, and mixed with coarse white sand. Around noon, the wind shifted to the northwest and blew so hard that we had to stay put for the rest of the day. We saw plenty of game, as usual, and the bottom lands continue to get narrower.
About sunset it began to rain, and continued to fall a few drops at a time untill midnight; the wind blew violently all night.
Around sunset, it started to rain, and it kept drizzling a bit at a time until midnight; the wind howled fiercely all night.
[Clark, May 12, 1805]
May 12th Sunday 1805. Set out at an early hour, the morning Clear and Calm, Capt. Lewis walked on Shore this morning about 12 oClock the wind becam Strong from the E. about half past one oClock the wind Shifted round to the N. W. and blew verry hard all the latter part of the day, which obliged us to Lay by—The Countrey is hilley & rugged and the earth of a lightish brown and but indifferent, Some Small Cedar is Scattered on the Sides of the hils & in the hollars, Some pine ridges is also to be Seen on the North Side, we observe great quantites of game as usual. I killed a beaver in the water, Saw Several Sitting on the bank near the waters edge about Sunset it began to rain, and rained very moderately only a fiew drops at a time for about half the night, wind Continued violent all night
May 12th, Sunday, 1805. We set out early; the morning was clear and calm. Capt. Lewis walked on shore around 12 o'clock. The wind picked up strongly from the east around 1:30 PM, then shifted to the northwest and blew really hard for the rest of the day, forcing us to stay put. The landscape is hilly and rugged, with light brown soil that’s not very good. Some small cedar trees are scattered on the hillsides and in the valleys, and there are some pine ridges visible on the north side. As usual, we see a lot of game. I caught a beaver in the water and saw several sitting on the bank near the water's edge. Around sunset, it started to rain, but it was only a few drops at a time and continued like this for about half the night. The wind remained strong all night.
[Lewis, May 13, 1805]
Monday May 13th 1805. The wind continued to blow so violently this morning that we did not think it prudent to set out. sent out some hunters. At 1 P.M. the wind abated, and altho the hunters had not all returned we set out; the courant reather stronger than usual and the water continues to become reather clearer, from both which I anticipate a change of Country shortly. the country much the same as yesterday; but little timber in the bottoms and a scant proportion of pine an cedar crown the Stard. hills. Capt C. who was on shore the greater part of the day killed a mule and a Common deer, the party killed several deer and some Elk principally for the benefit of their skins which are necessary to them for cloathing, the Elk skins I now begin to reserve for making the leather boat at the falls. the hunters joined us this evening; Gibson had wounded a very large brown bear but it was too late in the evening to pursue him.
Monday, May 13, 1805. The wind was still blowing fiercely this morning, so we decided it wasn't safe to leave. We sent out some hunters. By 1 P.M., the wind calmed down, and even though not all the hunters were back yet, we decided to set out; the current was a bit stronger than usual, and the water seemed to be getting clearer, which makes me think we might be nearing a change in the landscape. The terrain was mostly the same as yesterday, with hardly any trees in the low areas and a limited amount of pine and cedar covering the higher hills. Captain C., who spent most of the day on shore, shot a mule and a common deer. The group took down several deer and some elk, mainly for their hides, which they needed for clothing. I'm starting to save the elk hides for making the leather boat at the falls. The hunters rejoined us this evening; Gibson had wounded a very large brown bear, but it was too late to track him down.
[Clark, May 13, 1805]
13th of May Monday 1805 The wind Continued to blow hard untill one oClock P M. to day at which time it fell a little and we Set out and proceeded on verry well about 9 miles and Camped on the Lard Side. the countrey much the Same appearance as yesterday but little timber in the bottoms; Some Pine in places on the Stard. Hills. I killed two deer this evening one a mule deer & the other a common Deer, the party killed Several this morning all for the use of their Skins which are now good, one man Gibson wounded a verry large brown bear, too late this evening to prosue him- We passed two Creeks in a bend to the Lard Side neither them had any water, are somewhat wider; passed some high black bluffs. saw immence herds of buffaloe today also Elk deer wolves and Antelopes. passed three large creeks one on the Stard. and two others on the Lard. side, neither of which had any runing water. Capt Clark walked on shore and killed a very fine buffaloe cow. I felt an inclination to eat some veal and walked on shore and killed a very fine buffaloe calf and a large woolf, much the whitest I had seen, it was quite as white as the wool of the common sheep. one of the party wounded a brown bear very badly, but being alone did not think proper to pursue him. In the evening the men in two of the rear canoes discovered a large brown bear lying in the open grounds about 300 paces from the river, and six of them went out to attack him, all good hunters; they took the advantage of a small eminence which concealed them and got within 40 paces of him unperceived, two of them reserved their fires as had been previously conscerted, the four others fired nearly at the same time and put each his bullet through him, two of the balls passed through the bulk of both lobes of his lungs, in an instant this monster ran at them with open mouth, the two who had reserved their fires discharged their pieces at him as he came towards them, boath of them struck him, one only slightly and the other fortunately broke his shoulder, this however only retarded his motion for a moment only, the men unable to reload their guns took to flight, the bear pursued and had very nearly overtaken them before they reached the river; two of the party betook themselves to a canoe and the others seperated an concealed themselves among the willows, reloaded their pieces, each discharged his piece at him as they had an opportunity they struck him several times again but the guns served only to direct the bear to them, in this manner he pursued two of them seperately so close that they were obliged to throw aside their guns and pouches and throw themselves into the river altho the bank was nearly twenty feet perpendicular; so enraged was this anamal that he plunged into the river only a few feet behind the second man he had compelled take refuge in the water, when one of those who still remained on shore shot him through the head and finally killed him; they then took him on shore and butched him when they found eight balls had passed through him in different directions; the bear being old the flesh was indifferent, they therefore only took the skin and fleece, the latter made us several gallons of oil; it was after the sun had set before these men come up with us, where we had been halted by an occurrence, which I have now to recappitulate, and which altho happily passed without ruinous injury, I cannot recollect but with the utmost trepidation and horror; this is the upseting and narrow escape of the white perogue It happened unfortunately for us this evening that Charbono was at the helm of this Perogue, in stead of Drewyer, who had previously steered her; Charbono cannot swim and is perhaps the most timid waterman in the world; perhaps it was equally unluckey that Capt. C. and myself were both on shore at that moment, a circumstance which rarely happened; and tho we were on the shore opposite to the perogue, were too far distant to be heard or to do more than remain spectators of her fate; in this perogue ____ were embarked, our papers, Instruments, books medicine, a great part of our merchandize and in short almost every article indispensibly necessary to further the views, or insure the success of the enterprize in which we are now launched to the distance of 2200 miles. surfice it to say, that the Perogue was under sail when a sudon squawl of wind struck her obliquely, and turned her considerably, the steersman allarmed, in stead of puting her before the wind, lufted her up into it, the wind was so violent that it drew the brace of the squarsail out of the hand of the man who was attending it, and instantly upset the perogue and would have turned her completely topsaturva, had it not have been from the resistance mad by the oarning against the water; in this situation Capt. C and myself both fired our guns to attract the attention if possible of the crew and ordered the halyards to be cut and the sail hawled in, but they did not hear us; such was their confusion and consternation at this moment, that they suffered the perogue to lye on her side for half a minute before they took the sail in, the perogue then wrighted but had filled within an inch of the gunwals; Charbono still crying to his god for mercy, had not yet recollected the rudder, nor could the repeated orders of the Bowsman, Cruzat, bring him to his recollection untill he threatend to shoot him instantly if he did not take hold of the rudder and do his duty, the waves by this time were runing very high, but the fortitude resolution and good conduct of Cruzat saved her; he ordered 2 of the men to throw out the water with some kettles that fortunately were convenient, while himself and two others rowed her ashore, where she arrived scarcely above the water; we now took every article out of her and lay them to drane as well as we could for the evening, baled out the canoe and secured her; there were two other men beside Charbono on board who could not swim, and who of course must also have perished had the perogue gone to the bottom. while the perogue lay on her side, finding I could not be heard, I for a moment forgot my own situation, and involluntarily droped my gun, threw aside my shot pouch and was in the act of unbuttoning my coat, before I recollected the folly of the attempt I was about to make, which was to throw myself into the river and indevour to swim to the perogue; the perogue was three hundred yards distant the waves so high that a perogue could scarcely live in any situation, the water excessively could, and the stream rappid; had I undertaken this project therefore, there was a hundred to one but what I should have paid the forfit of my life for the madness of my project, but this had the perogue been lost, I should have valued but little.—After having all matters arranged for the evening as well as the nature of circumstances would permit, we thought it a proper occasion to console ourselves and cheer the sperits of our men and accordingly took a drink of grog and gave each man a gill of sperits.
13th of May, Monday 1805 The wind kept blowing hard until 1 PM today, at which point it eased up a bit, and we set out, making good progress of about 9 miles before camping on the left side. The landscape looked much the same as yesterday, with little timber in the low areas and some pine trees on the right hills. I shot two deer this evening, one a mule deer and the other a regular deer; the team also killed several this morning, all for their skins, which are now in good condition. One man, Gibson, wounded a very large brown bear but it was too late in the evening to pursue him. We crossed two creeks that curved to the left side; neither had any water and were somewhat wider; we also passed some high black bluffs. We saw huge herds of buffalo today along with elk, deer, wolves, and antelopes. We crossed three large creeks, one on the right side and two on the left, none of which had any running water. Captain Clark walked on shore and shot a very fine buffalo cow. I felt like having some veal, so I walked on shore and killed a nice buffalo calf and a large wolf, which was the whitest I had ever seen—almost as white as common sheep wool. One of the group wounded a brown bear very badly, but being alone, he didn’t think it wise to chase after it. In the evening, the men in two of the rear canoes spotted a large brown bear lying in an open area about 300 paces from the river, and six of them, all good hunters, went out to track it. They took advantage of a small rise that concealed them and got within 40 paces of the bear without being noticed. Two of them waited to fire their shots as arranged, while the other four fired nearly at the same time, each hitting the bear. Two of the bullets went through both lobes of its lungs. Instantly, this monster charged at them with its mouth open; the two who held back their shots fired as he approached, both hitting him, one just slightly and the other lucky enough to break his shoulder. However, that only slowed him down for a moment. Unable to reload their guns, the men fled, with the bear almost catching up to them before they reached the river. Two of the team jumped into a canoe, while the others hid among the willows, reloaded their guns, and shot at the bear whenever they got the chance. They hit it several times again, but the shots only directed the bear towards them. In this way, he chased two of them separately so closely that they had to discard their guns and bags and leap into the river, even though the bank was nearly twenty feet straight down. The bear, enraged, dove into the river just a few feet behind the second man who had been forced into the water, when one of those who remained on shore shot it in the head and finally killed it. They then pulled it ashore and butchered it, discovering that eight bullets had passed through it in different directions. Since the bear was old, the meat was not very good, so they only took the skin and fleece, which yielded several gallons of oil. It was after sunset before these men rejoined us, where we had paused due to an incident I need to recount. Although we escaped serious harm, I can only remember it with great anxiety and horror: this is the story of the capsizing and narrow escape of the white pirogue. Unfortunately, that evening Charbono was at the helm of the pirogue instead of Drewyer, who had previously steered it. Charbono cannot swim and is likely the most timid waterman alive. It was also unlucky that Captain Clark and I were both on the shore at that moment, a situation that rarely occurs. Although we were on the opposite shore from the pirogue, we were too far away to be heard or do anything but watch the events unfold. On this pirogue were our papers, instruments, books, medicine, a large part of our merchandise, and practically every necessary item for the success of our endeavor as we traveled 2,200 miles. Suffice to say, the pirogue was sailing when a sudden gust of wind struck her sideways, causing a significant turn. The helmsman, alarmed, instead of turning her into the wind, let her ride up into it. The wind was so strong that it pulled the brace of the square sail from the hand of the man attending to it, and the pirogue immediately capsized. It would have completely flipped over if it weren't for the resistance of the oars against the water. At this moment, Captain Clark and I fired our guns to attract the crew's attention and ordered them to cut the halyards and haul in the sail, but they didn’t hear us. Their confusion and panic were so intense that they allowed the pirogue to lie on its side for half a minute before they finally took in the sail. The pirogue then righted itself but had filled almost to the gunwales with water. Charbono, still crying out for mercy, had not yet remembered the rudder. Despite the attempts of the bowman, Cruzat, to get him to remember, he only acted when Cruzat threatened to shoot him if he didn’t take hold of the rudder and do his duty. By this time, the waves were running very high, but Cruzat’s bravery, determination, and levelheadedness saved her. He ordered two of the men to bail out the water using kettles that were luckily available while he and two others rowed the pirogue to the shore, where they arrived just above the surface of the water. We then removed every item from her and let them drain as best we could for the evening, baled out the canoe, and secured it. There were two other men besides Charbono aboard who couldn't swim, and they would have surely perished if the pirogue had sunk. While the pirogue lay on its side, finding that I could not be heard, I momentarily forgot my own situation and involuntarily dropped my gun, cast aside my shot pouch, and began to unbutton my coat, before I realized the folly of my intended action of jumping into the river and trying to swim to the pirogue. The pirogue was three hundred yards away; the waves were so high that a pirogue could barely stay afloat, the water was freezing, and the current was swift. Had I attempted this plan, I likely would have lost my life due to the madness of my actions, yet had the pirogue been lost, I wouldn’t have cared much. Once we arranged everything for the evening to the extent that the circumstances permitted, we thought it was a good time to console ourselves and uplift the spirits of our men, so we had a drink of grog and gave each man a small measure of spirits.
[Clark, May 14, 1805]
14th of May Tuesday 1805 A verry Clear Cold morning a white frost & some fog on the river the Thermomtr Stood at 32 above 0, wind from the S. W. we proceeded on verry well untill about 6 oClock a Squawl of wind Struck our Sale broad Side and turned the perogue nearly over, and in this Situation the Perogue remained untill the Sale was Cut down in which time She nearly filed with water—the articles which floated out was nearly all caught by the Squar who was in the rear. This accident had like to have cost us deerly; for in this perogue were embarked our papers, Instruments, books, medicine, a great proportion of our merchandize, and in short almost every article indispensibly necessary to further the views, or insure the success of the enterprize in which, we are now launched to the distance of 2,200 miles. it happened unfortunately that Capt. Lewis and myself were both on shore at the time of this occurrence, a circumstance which seldom took place; and tho we were on the shore opposit to the perogue were too far distant to be heard or do more than remain spectators of her fate; we discharged our guns with the hope of attracting the attention of the crew and ordered the sail to be taken in but such was their consternation and confusion at the instant that they did not hear us. when however they at length took in the sail and the perogue wrighted; the bowsman Cruzatte by repeated threats so far brought Charbono the Sternman to his recollection that he did his duty while two hands bailed the perogue and Cruzatte and two others rowed her on shore were she arrived scarcely above the water. we owe the preservation of the perogue to the resolution and fortitude of Cruzatte
14th of May, Tuesday, 1805 It was a really clear, cold morning with white frost and some fog on the river. The thermometer stood at 32°F, and the wind was coming from the southwest. We made good progress until around 6 o'clock when a gust of wind hit our sail broadside, nearly capsizing the canoe. The canoe stayed in that position until we were able to cut the sail down, during which time it nearly filled with water. Most of the items that floated out were caught by the crew member who was behind us. This accident could've cost us dearly because this canoe held our papers, instruments, books, medicine, a large portion of our merchandise, and basically everything essential for the success of our mission, which we are undertaking over a distance of 2,200 miles. Unfortunately, Captain Lewis and I were both on the shore at the time, which rarely happened. Although we were on the opposite shore, we were too far away to be heard, and could only watch the canoe's plight. We fired our guns in hopes of getting the crew's attention and ordered them to take in the sail, but they were so panicked that they didn't hear us. Eventually, when they did take in the sail and the canoe righted itself, the bowsman Cruzatte managed to bring the sternman Charbono back to his senses with repeated threats, prompting him to do his job. Meanwhile, two hands bailed out the canoe while Cruzatte and two others rowed it to shore, where it arrived barely above the water. We owe the canoe's preservation to Cruzatte's determination and courage.
The Countrey like that of yesterday, passed a Small Island and the enterence of 3 large Creeks, one on the Stard. & the other 2 on the Lard Side, neither of them had any running water at this time—Six good hunters of the party fired at a Brown or Yellow Bear Several times before they killed him, & indeed he had like to have defeated the whole party, he pursued them Seperately as they fired on him, and was near Catching Several of them one he pursued into the river, this bear was large & fat would way about 500 wt; I killed a Buffalow, & Capt. Lewis a Calf & a wolf this evening.
The countryside, similar to yesterday's, passed a small island and the entrance of three large creeks—one on the starboard side and the other two on the port side. None of them had any running water at the time. Six skilled hunters from our group took several shots at a brown or yellow bear before finally bringing it down. In fact, it almost overpowered the entire group; it chased them one by one as they shot at it and nearly caught several of them, even pursuing one into the river. This bear was large and fat, weighing about 500 pounds. I killed a buffalo, and Captain Lewis took down a calf and a wolf this evening.
[Lewis, May 15, 1805]
Wednesday May 15th as soon as a slight shower of rain passed over this morning, we spread the articles to dry which had got wet yesterday in the white perogue; tho the day proved so cloudy and damp that they received but little benifit from the sun or air; we were enabled to put them in such a state as to prevent their sustaining further injury. our hunters killed several deer, and saw three bear one of which they wounded.
Wednesday, May 15th, as soon as a light rain shower passed this morning, we spread out the items that got wet yesterday in the white perogue to dry. However, the day turned out to be so cloudy and damp that they didn’t get much benefit from the sun or air. We managed to get them into a condition to prevent further damage. Our hunters killed several deer and spotted three bears, one of which they wounded.
[Clark, May 15, 1805]
May 15th Wednesday 1805 Our medisons, Instruments, merchandize, Clothes, provisions &c. &c. which was nearly all wet we had put out to air and dry. the day being Cloudy & rainey those articles dried but little to day—our hunters killed Several deer &c. and Saw three Bear one of which they wounded &c.
May 15th, Wednesday, 1805. We put our medicines, instruments, merchandise, clothes, provisions, etc., out to air and dry since most of them were quite wet. The day was cloudy and rainy, so those items didn't dry much today. Our hunters killed several deer and saw three bears, one of which they wounded.
We see Buffalow on the banks dead, others floating down dead, and others mired every day, those buffalow either drown in Swiming the river or brake thro the ice
We see dead buffalo on the riverbanks, others floating down dead, and still others stuck in mud every day. Those buffalo either drown while trying to swim across the river or break through the ice.
[Lewis, May 16, 1805]
Thursday May 16th The morning was fair and the day proved favorable to our operations; by 4 oClock in the evening our Instruments, Medicine, merchandize provision &c, were perfectly dryed, repacked and put on board the perogue. the loss we sustained was not so great as we had at first apprehended; our medicine sustained the greatest injury, several articles of which were intirely spoiled, and many others considerably injured; the ballance of our losses consisted of some gardin seeds, a small quantity of gunpowder, and a few culinary articles which fell overboard and sunk, the Indian woman to whom I ascribe equal fortitude and resolution, with any person onboard at the time of the accedent, caught and preserved most of the light articles which were washed overboard all matters being now arranged for our departure we lost no time in seting out; proceeced on tolerably well about seven miles and encamped on the Stard. side. in the early part of the day two of our men fired on a panther, a little below our encampment, and wounded it; they informed us that it was very large, had just killed a deer partly devoured it, and in the act of concealing the ballance as they discovered him. we caught two Antelopes at our encampment in attempting to swim the river; these anamals are but lean as yet, and of course not very pleasant food. I walked on shore this evening and killed a buffaloe cow and calf, we found the calf most excellent veal. the country on either side of the river is broken and hills much higher than usual, the bottoms now become narrow and the timber more scant; some scattering pine and cedar on the steep declivities of the hills.- this morning a white bear toar Labuiche's coat which he had left in the plains.
Thursday, May 16th The morning was nice, and the day was good for our work; by 4 o'clock in the evening, our instruments, medicine, merchandise, provisions, etc., were completely dried, repacked, and loaded onto the canoe. The loss we faced wasn't as bad as we initially feared; our medicine suffered the most damage, with several items completely spoiled and many others significantly affected. The rest of our losses included some garden seeds, a small amount of gunpowder, and a few cooking items that fell overboard and sank. The Indian woman, who I consider just as brave and determined as anyone else on board at the time of the accident, managed to catch and save most of the lightweight items that washed overboard. With everything now organized for our departure, we wasted no time in setting out; we made decent progress, traveling about seven miles and camping on the starboard side. Earlier in the day, two of our men shot at a panther just below our camp and hit it; they told us it was quite large and had just killed a deer, partially eaten it, and was trying to hide the rest when they spotted it. We captured two antelopes at our camp as they tried to swim across the river; these animals are still quite lean and not very appetizing. I walked along the shore this evening and shot a buffalo cow and calf; we found the calf to be excellent veal. The land on both sides of the river is rugged, with hills that are taller than usual, and the valleys are now narrow with sparser trees. There are some scattered pine and cedar trees on the steep hillsides. This morning, a white bear tore Labuiche's coat that he had left in the plains.
[Clark, May 16, 1805]
May 16th Thursday 1805 a fair morning our articles all out to Dry at 4 oClock we had every thing that was Saved dry and on bord, our loss is Some medison, Powder, Seeds, & Several articles which Sunk, and maney Spoiled had a medn. altitude which gave for Latd. ° ' " N.—two of our men fired at a pant hr a little below our Camp, this animale they say was large, had Caught a Deer & eate it half & buried the ballance. a fiew antilope Swam the river near our Camp two of them were Cought by the party in the river. at half past 4 oClock we Set out and proceeded on verry well ____ miles and incamped on the Std. Side the Countrey as before hilley & broken verry Small proprotion of timber in the points, Some little pine & Ceader in the hills
May 16th, Thursday, 1805. It was a nice morning. We had our stuff out to dry by 4 o'clock. Everything we were able to save was dry and on board. We lost some medicine, gunpowder, seeds, and several items that sank, with many more spoiled. I recorded the altitude, which gave a latitude of ° ' " N. Two of our men shot at a panther a little below our camp. They said this animal was large and had caught a deer, eaten half of it, and buried the rest. A few antelope swam across the river near our camp, and the party caught two of them. At half-past 4 o’clock, we set out and made good progress for ____ miles, then camped on the east side. The country was hilly and broken, with very little timber in the low points, just some small pine and cedar in the hills.
Buffalow & Deer is yet plenty on the river in the small timbered bottoms Capt Lewis walked out on the Std. Side and killed a Cow & Calf the calf was verry fine their bases. it is somewhat singular that the lower part of these hills appear to be formed of a dark rich loam while the upper region about 150 feet is formed of a whiteish brown sand, so hard in many parts as to resemble stone; but little rock or stone of any kind to be seen in these hills. the river is much narrower than usual, the bed from 200 to 300 yards only and possessing a much larger proportion of gravel than usual. a few scattering cottonwood trees are the only timber near the river; the sandbars, and with them the willow points have almost entirely disappeared. greater appearance than usual of the saline incrustations of the banks and river hills. we passed two creeks the one on Stard. side, and the other just below our camp on the Lard. side; each of these creeks afford a small quantity of runing water, of a brackish tast. the great number of large beds of streams perfectly dry which we daily pass indicate a country but badly watered, which I fear is the case with the country through which we have been passing for the last fifteen or twenty days. Capt Clark walked on shore this evening and killed an Elk; buffaloe are not so abundant as they were some days past. the party with me killed a female brown bear, she was but meagre, and appeared to have suckled young very recently. Capt. Clark narrowly escaped being bitten by a rattlesnake in the course of his walk, the party killed one this evening at our encampment, which he informed me was similar to that he had seen; this snake is smaller than those common to the middle Atlantic States, being about 2 feet 6 inches long; it is of a yellowish brown colour on the back and sides, variagated with one row of oval spots of a dark brown colour lying transversely over the back from the neck to the tail, and two other rows of small circular spots of the same colour which garnis the sides along the edge of the scuta. it's bely contains 176 scuta on the belly and 17 on the tale. Capt Clark informed me that he saw some coal which had been brought down by the water of the last creek we passed; this creek also throws out considerable quantities of Driftwood, though there is no timber on it which can be perceived from the Missouri; we called this stream rattlesnake creek. Capt Clark saw an Indian fortifyed camp this evening, which appeared to have been recently occupyed, from which we concluded it was probable that it had been formed by a war party of the Menetares who left their vilage in March last with a view to attack the blackfoot Indians in consequence of their having killed some of their principal warriors the previous autumn. we were roused late at night by the Sergt. of the guard, and warned of the danger we were in from a large tree that had taken fire and which leant immediately over our lodge. we had the loge removed, and a few minutes after a large proportion of the top of the tree fell on the place the lodge had stood; had we been a few minutes later we should have been crushed to attoms. the wind blew so hard, that notwithstanding the lodge was fifty paces distant from the fire it sustained considerable injury from the burning coals which were thrown on it; the party were much harrassed also by this fire which communicated to a collection of fallen timber, and could not be extinguished.
Buffalo and deer are still abundant along the river in the small wooded areas. Captain Lewis went out on the starboard side and killed a cow and calf; the calf was quite nice. It's a bit unusual that the lower part of these hills seems to be made of dark, rich soil, while the upper part, about 150 feet up, is made of whitish-brown sand, which is so hard in many areas that it resembles stone. There's little rock or stone visible in these hills. The river is much narrower than normal, only 200 to 300 yards wide, and has a greater amount of gravel than usual. A few scattered cottonwood trees are the only timber near the river; the sandbars and willow points have almost completely vanished. There's a greater presence than usual of saline deposits along the banks and river hills. We passed two creeks—one on the starboard side and the other just below our camp on the larboard side; each creek offers a small amount of brackish water. The numerous large dry stream beds we pass daily indicate that this area is poorly watered, which I suspect has been the case for the last fifteen or twenty days. Captain Clark walked on shore this evening and killed an elk; buffalo are not as plentiful as they were a few days ago. The group with me killed a female brown bear; she was thin and seemed to have nursed young recently. Captain Clark narrowly avoided being bitten by a rattlesnake during his walk; the party killed one this evening at our campsite, which he told me resembled the one he saw. This snake is smaller than those typically found in the Mid-Atlantic States, measuring about 2 feet 6 inches long; it's yellowish-brown on its back and sides, with a row of dark brown oval spots running transversely from neck to tail, and two other rows of small circular spots of the same color along the sides at the edge of the scales. Its belly has 176 scales and 17 on the tail. Captain Clark mentioned that he saw some coal brought down by the water from the last creek we passed; this creek also carries a good amount of driftwood, though there are no perceivable trees along it from the Missouri side. We named this stream Rattlesnake Creek. Captain Clark saw an Indian fortified camp this evening that appeared to have been recently occupied, leading us to think it was likely established by a war party of the Mandan tribe who left their village last March to attack the Blackfoot Indians after they had killed some of their key warriors the previous autumn. Late that night, we were awakened by the sergeant of the guard, who warned us of danger from a large tree that had caught fire and was leaning directly over our lodge. We had to move the lodge, and just minutes later, a large part of the top of the tree fell where the lodge had been standing; if we had been a few minutes later, we would have been crushed. The wind was blowing so hard that even though the lodge was fifty paces away from the fire, it still suffered considerable damage from the burning embers that were blown onto it. The fire also troubled the group as it spread to a pile of fallen timber and could not be extinguished.
[Clark, May 17, 1805]
May 17th Friday 1805 a fine morning wind from the N W. mercury at 60° a 0. river falling a little. we Set out at an early hour and proceeded on verry well by the assistance of the Toe rope principally, the Countrey verry rugged & hills high and the river washing the base on each Side, Great appearance of the Salt Substance. a fiew Cotton trees is the only timber which is Scattered in the bottoms & the hills contain a fiew Pine & Cedar, which is Scattered. river much narrower than below from 2 to 300 yards wide, the bottoms muddey & hills rich earth except near their topes—We passed 2 large Creeks to day one on the Starbd Side and the other just below our camp on the Lard. Side each of those creeks has a little running water near their mouthes which has a brackish taste, I was nearly treading on a Small fierce rattle Snake different from any I had ever Seen &c. one man the party killed another of the Same kind. I walked on Shore after dinner & killed an Elk—the party in my absence Killed a female Brown or yellow Bear which was meagre the appearances of the Hills & Countrey is as before mentioned except a greater appearance of the white appearance of Salts or tarter and Some Coal which has been thrown out by the floods in the last Creek- Buffalow & Deer is not plenty to day, Elk is yet to be Seen in abundance we Camped in the upper part of a Small timbered bottom on the Lard. Side in which I Saw a fortified Indian Camp, which I Suppose is one of the Camps of a Mi ne tar re war party of about 15 men, that Set out from their village in March last to war against the Blackfoot Indians.
May 17th, Friday, 1805: a beautiful morning with a northwest wind. The mercury reads 60°. The river is falling a bit. We set out early and moved along quite well, mainly thanks to the tow rope. The terrain is very rugged, with high hills on either side of the river, which is washing against their bases, showing a significant amount of salt. A few cottonwood trees are the only timber scattered in the valleys, while the hills have a few scattered pines and cedars. The river is much narrower than downstream, measuring 200 to 300 yards wide. The bottoms are muddy, and the hills have rich earth, except near their tops. We passed two large creeks today—one on the starboard side and the other just below our camp on the larboard side. Each of these creeks has a little running water near their mouths that tastes brackish. I nearly stepped on a small but fierce rattlesnake, unlike any I had seen before. One man in the party killed another of the same kind. After dinner, I walked on shore and killed an elk. While I was away, the party killed a lean female brown or yellow bear. The hills and countryside look as I described earlier, but with a greater appearance of white salts or tarter, along with some coal that the recent floods have exposed in the last creek. Buffalo and deer are scarce today, but elk are still abundant. We camped in the upper part of a small wooded bottom on the larboard side, where I saw a fortified Indian camp. I believe it belongs to a Mi ne tar re war party of about 15 men who set out from their village last March to fight against the Blackfoot Indians.
we were roused late at night and warned of the danger of fire from a tree which had Cought and leaned over our Lodge, we had the lodge moved Soon after the Dry limbs & top of the tree fell in the place the Lodge Stood, the wind blew hard and the dry wood Cought & fire flew in every direction, burnt our Lodge verry much from the Coals which fell on it altho at Some distance in the plain, the whole party was much disturbed by this fire which could not be extinguished &c
We were awakened late at night and warned about the danger of a fire from a tree that had caught fire and was leaning over our lodge. We had the lodge moved shortly after, and the dry limbs and top of the tree fell where the lodge had been. The wind blew hard, and the dry wood caught fire, sending flames flying in every direction. Our lodge was heavily damaged by the coals that fell on it, even though it was some distance away in the plain. The entire group was really upset by this fire, which couldn’t be put out, etc.
[Lewis, May 18, 1805]
Saturday May 18th 1805. The wind blew hard this morning from the West. we were enabled to employ our toe line the greater part of the day and therefore proceeded on tolerably well. there are now but few sandbars, the river is narrow and current gentle. the timber consists of a few cottonwood trees along the verge of the river; the willow has in a great measure disappeared. in the latter part of the day the hills widened, the bottoms became larger, and contained more timber. we passed a creek on the Stard. side about three oclock, which afforded no water; came too and encamped on the Lard. side opposite to the lower point of a small Island, two miles short of the extremity of the last course of this day. Capt Clark in the course of his walk this evening killed four deer, two of which were the black tailed or mule deer; the skins are now good, they have not yet produced their young.—we saw a number of buffaloe, Elk, deer and Antelopes.—the saline substance frequently mentioned continues to appear as usual.-
Saturday, May 18, 1805. The wind blew strong from the west this morning. We were able to use our toe line for most of the day, which helped us make good progress. There are only a few sandbars now; the river is narrow and the current is gentle. The timber mainly consists of a few cottonwood trees along the river’s edge; the willows have mostly disappeared. Later in the day, the hills opened up, the banks became broader, and there was more timber. We passed a creek on the starboard side around three o'clock, but it had no water. We made camp on the port side, across from the lower point of a small island, two miles short of the end of today’s course. Captain Clark shot four deer during his walk this evening, two of which were black-tailed or mule deer; their skins are now in good condition, and they haven't had their young yet. We saw several buffalo, elk, deer, and antelopes. The saline substance we've mentioned frequently continues to appear as usual.
[Clark, May 18, 1805]
May 18th Satturday 1805 A windey morning wind from the West we proceeded on verry well with the assistance of the Toe Coard, river narrow but flew Sand bars, & current jentle, but a few Cotton Trees Contained in the bottoms willow is not common on the bears as usial Some little on the Sides of the river is yet to be Seen, the after part of the day was Cloudy & at about 12 oClock it began to rain and continued moderately for about 11/2 hours, not Sufficient to wet a man thro his clothes; this is the first rain Since we Set out this Spring The hills widen and the bottoms Contain more timber than for Several days past, we passed a Wisers Creek on the Std. Side about 3 oClock and Camped on the Lard Side opposit the lower point of a handsom little Island near the middle of the river. I walked on Shore and killed four Deer, 2 common & 2 mule deer, one of which had 3 fauns, 2 others had 2 each, those deer are fat, & their Skins tolerable good, which are now in demand with us for clothes Such as Legins & Mockersons, I Saw great numbers of Buffalows & Elk; Some of the party Shoot & Catch beaver every day & night
May 18th, Saturday, 1805 It was a windy morning with a breeze coming from the west. We made good progress with the help of the tow cord. The river was narrow but had many sandbars, and the current was gentle. A few cottonwoods were found in the bottoms, but willows were less common than usual. There was still some to be seen along the sides of the river. The latter part of the day turned cloudy, and around noon it started to rain, continuing moderately for about an hour and a half, not enough to soak a person through their clothes. This was the first rain since we set out this spring. The hills opened up, and the bottoms had more timber than we had seen in several days. We passed a creek on the starboard side around 3 o'clock and camped on the port side opposite the lower point of a beautiful little island near the middle of the river. I went ashore and killed four deer—two common and two mule deer. One of the mule deer had three fawns; the others each had two. These deer are fat, and their skins are fairly good, which we need for clothing like leggings and moccasins. I saw a lot of buffalo and elk. Some members of the party hunt and catch beavers every day and night.
[Lewis, May 19, 1805]
Sunday May 19th 1805. The last night was disagreeably could; we were unable to set out untill 8 oclock A.M. in consequence of a heavy fogg, which obscured the river in such a manner that we could not see our way; this is the first we have experienced in any thing like so great a degree; there was also a fall of due last evening, which is the second we have experienced since we have entered this extensive open country. at eight we set out and proceeded as yesterday by means of the cord principally, the hills are high and the country similar to that of yesterday. Capt Clark walked on shore with two of the hunters and killed a brown bear; notwithstanding that it was shot through the heart it ran at it's usual pace near a quarter of a mile before it fell. one of the party wounded a beaver, and my dog as usual swam in to catch it; the beaver bit him through the hind leg and cut the artery; it was with great difficulty that I could stop the blood; I fear it will yet prove fatal to him. on Capt. Clark's return he informed me that he had from the top of one of the adjacent hights discovered the entrance of a large stream which discharged itself into the Missouri on the Lard. side distant 6 or seven miles; from the same place he also saw a range of Mountains, bearing W. distant 40 or 50 miles; they appeared to proceed in a S. S. W. direction; the N. N. E. extremity of these mountains appeared abrupt.
Sunday, May 19, 1805. Last night was uncomfortably cold; we couldn't set out until 8 o'clock A.M. because of a heavy fog that obscured the river so much we couldn’t see where we were going. This is the first time we’ve encountered fog to such an extent; there was also a dew last night, which is the second we’ve experienced since entering this vast open country. At eight, we set out and moved along as we did yesterday, mostly using the cord. The hills are high, and the landscape is similar to what we saw yesterday. Captain Clark walked on shore with two of the hunters and shot a brown bear; even though it was hit through the heart, it ran at its usual pace for about a quarter of a mile before it fell. One of the party injured a beaver, and my dog, as usual, swam in to catch it; the beaver bit him through the hind leg and cut an artery; I had a tough time stopping the bleeding, and I fear it might be fatal for him. When Captain Clark returned, he told me that from the top of one of the nearby hills, he discovered the entrance of a large stream that flows into the Missouri from the left side, about 6 or 7 miles away. From that same spot, he also saw a range of mountains to the west, about 40 or 50 miles away; they seemed to extend in a south-southwest direction, and the northeast end of these mountains appeared steep.
This afternoon the river was croked, rappid and containing more sawyers than we have seen in the same space since we left the entrance of the river Platte. Capt. C. in the course of his walk killed three deer and a beaver, I also walked on shore this evening a few miles and killed an Elk, a buck, and a beaver. the party killed and caught 4 other beaver & 3 deer.
This afternoon the river was crooked, rapid, and had more obstacles than we’ve seen in the same stretch since we left the mouth of the Platte River. Captain C. killed three deer and a beaver during his walk. I also walked a few miles along the shore this evening and killed an elk, a buck, and a beaver. The group caught and killed four other beavers and three deer.
The men complain much of sore eyes and imposthumes.
The men often complain about sore eyes and abscesses.
[Clark, May 19, 1805]
May 19th Sunday 1805 a verry cold night, the murckery Stood at 38 at 8 oClock this morning, a heavy dew which is the 2d I have Seen this Spring. The fog (which was the first) was So thick this morning that we could not Set out untill the Sun was about 2 hours up, at which time a Small breeze Sprung up from the E. which Cleared off the fog & we proceeded on by means of the Cord The hills are high & rugged the Countrey as yesterday—I walked on Shore with two men we killed a white or grey bear; not withstanding that it was Shot through the heart it ran at it's usial pace near a quarter of a mile before it fell. Capt Lewis's dog was badly bitten by a wounded beaver and was near bleading to death-. after killing the Bear I continued my walk alone, & killed 3 Deer & a Beaver; finding that the Perogues were below I assended the highest hill I could See, from the top of which I Saw the mouth of M. Shell R & the meanderings of the Missouri for a long distance. I also Saw a high mountain in a westerley direction, bearing S. S W. about 40 or 50 miles distant, in the evening the river was verry Crooked and much more rapid & Containing more Sawyers than any which we have passed above the River Platte Capt Lewis walked on Shore this after noon & killed an Elk, Buck & a Beaver, I kiled three Deer at dinner, the hunters killed three other Deer to day Several beaver also killed. We Camped on the Stard Side in a bottom of Small Cotton wood
May 19th, Sunday, 1805. It was a very cold night; the mercury stood at 38 degrees at 8 o'clock this morning. There was a heavy dew, which is the second I've seen this spring. The fog (the first one) was so thick this morning that we couldn't set out until the sun was up for about two hours. At that point, a light breeze from the east cleared the fog, and we proceeded with the help of the cord. The hills are high and rugged, and the landscape looks the same as yesterday. I walked on shore with two men, and we killed a white or gray bear. Even though it was shot through the heart, it ran at its usual pace for nearly a quarter of a mile before it fell. Captain Lewis's dog was badly bitten by a wounded beaver and was close to bleeding to death. After killing the bear, I continued my walk alone and killed three deer and a beaver. Finding that the perogues were below me, I climbed the highest hill I could see. From the top, I noticed the mouth of M. Shell River and the winding Missouri River for quite a distance. I also saw a high mountain to the west, bearing S.S.W., about 40 to 50 miles away. In the evening, the river was very crooked, much more rapid, and had more sawyers than any we passed above the River Platte. Captain Lewis walked on shore this afternoon and killed an elk, a buck, and a beaver. I killed three deer at dinner, and the hunters killed three other deer today, along with several beavers. We camped on the starboard side in a bottom of small cottonwoods.
[Lewis, May 20, 1805]
Monday May 20th 1805 Set out at an early hour as usual, the banks being favourable and water strong we employed the toe rope principally; river narrow and croked; country much as that of yesterday; immence number of the prickley pears in the plains and on the hills. At the distance of 21/4 miles passed the entrance of a large Creek, affording but little water; this stream we named Blowing Fly Creek, from the immence quantities of those insects found in this neighbourhood, they infest our meat while roasting or boiling, and we are obliged to brush them off our provision as we eat. At 11 A.M. we arrived at the entrance of a handsome bold river which discharges itself into the Missouri on the Lard. side; this stream we take to be that called by the Minnetares the ____ or Muscleshell River; if it be the same, of which I entertain but little doubt, it takes it's rise, by their information in the 1st Chain of the Rocky Mountains at no great distance from the Yellow stone river, from whence in it's course to this place it passes through a high and broken country pretty well timbered, particularly on it's borders, and intersperced with handsome fertile plains and medows. but from the circumstance of the same Indians informing us that we should find a well timbered country in the neighbourhood of it's mouth, I am induced to beleive that the timbered country of which they speak is similar to that we have passed for a day or two, or that in our view above, which consists of nothing more than a few scattering small scrubby pine and dwarf cedar on the summits of some of the highest hills nine tenths of the country being wholy destitute of timber of any kind, covered with a short grass, arromatic herbs and the prickley pear; the river bottom however, so far as we have explored it or 8 m. are well stocked with Cottonwood timber of tollerable size, & lands of excellent quality. We halted at thentrance of the river on the point formed by it's junction with the Missouri determining to spend the day, make the necessary observations and send out some hunters to explore the country. The Muscle Shell river falls into the Missouri 2270 miles above it's mouth, and is 110 yards in width, it affords much more water than streams of it's width generally do below, it's courant is by no means rappid, and from appearances it might be navigated with canoes a considerable distance; it's bed is coarse sand and gravel principally with an occasion mixture of black mud; it's banks abbrupt and about 12 feet high yet never appear to overflow; the waters of this river is of a greenish yellow cast, much more transparent than the Missouri, which last is also much more transparent than below but still retains it's whiteish hue and a proportion of it's sedement. the Missouri opposite to this point is deep, gentle in it's courant, and 222 yards in width. The hunters returned this evening and informed us that the country continued much the same in appearance as that we saw where we were or broken, and that about five miles abe the mouth of shell river a handsome river of about fifty yards in width discharged itself into the shell river on the Stard. or upper side; this stream we called Sah-ca-gar me-ah or bird woman's River, after our interpreter the Snake woman. Shields also found a bould spring or fountain issuing from the foot of the Lard. hills about 4 miles up the Missouri; a fountain in this plain country is a great novelty; I have not seen a bould fountain of pure water except one since I left the Mandans; there a number of small ones but all without exception are impregnated with the salts which abound in this country, and with which I believe the Missoury itself considerably impregnated but to us in the habit of useing it not perceptible; the exception I make is a very fine fountain under the bluffs on the Lard. side of the Missouri and at a distance from the river about five miles below the entrance of the yellowstone River. The sands of the Missouri are not so abundant as they have been for some time past, being confined to the points only; the bed of the river principally mud and still too deep to use the seting pole. Capt. Clark walked out today and killed two deer and an Elk, the hunters killed 4 deer and elk and a buffaloe. I saw two large Owls with remarkable long feathers on the sides of the head which resembled ears; I take them to be the large hooting owl tho they are somewhat larger and their colours brighter than those common to the J States.-
Monday, May 20th, 1805 We set out early as usual. The banks were favorable, and the water was strong, so we mainly used the toe rope. The river was narrow and winding; the landscape was similar to yesterday's. There were countless prickly pears in the plains and on the hills. After traveling 2.25 miles, we passed the entrance of a large creek that had little water; we named this stream Blowing Fly Creek, due to the large number of those insects found nearby. They infest our meat while we're roasting or boiling it, and we have to brush them off our food as we eat. At 11 A.M., we arrived at the mouth of a beautiful, bold river that flows into the Missouri on the left side. We think this is the stream called the ____ or Musselshell River by the Minnetarees; if it is, which I have little doubt about, it originates, according to their information, in the first chain of the Rocky Mountains, not far from the Yellowstone River. Along its course to this point, it passes through a high, rugged area that is fairly well-wooded, especially along its banks, with lovely fertile plains and meadows interspersed. However, since the same Indians informed us that we would find a well-wooded area near its mouth, I believe that the wooded area they are referring to is similar to what we've passed over the past day or two, or what we see above, which consists of only a few scattered small, scrubby pine trees and dwarf cedars on the tops of some of the highest hills. Ninety percent of the land is entirely devoid of timber, covered instead with short grass, aromatic herbs, and prickly pear. The river bottom, however, as far as we've explored it, or 8 miles, is well-stocked with cottonwood timber of decent size and lands of excellent quality. We stopped at the mouth of the river, where it joins the Missouri, deciding to spend the day there, make the necessary observations, and send out some hunters to explore the area. The Musselshell River flows into the Missouri 2,270 miles above its mouth and is 110 yards wide. It has much more water than streams of its width usually have; its current is not very swift, and it seems navigable by canoe for quite a distance. Its bed mainly consists of coarse sand and gravel with occasional black mud. Its banks are steep, about 12 feet high, yet they never appear to overflow. The waters of this river have a greenish-yellow tint and are much clearer than the Missouri, which is also more transparent than downstream but still retains its whitish hue and some sediment. The Missouri, opposite this point, is deep, has a gentle current, and is 222 yards wide. The hunters returned this evening, reporting that the landscape looked much the same as what we saw earlier—hilly and broken. They also mentioned that about five miles above the mouth of the Musselshell River, a beautiful river, about fifty yards wide, flows into it from the upper side; we named this stream Sah-ca-gar me-ah or Bird Woman's River, after our interpreter, the Snake Woman. Shields also discovered a bold spring or fountain at the base of the left hills, about 4 miles up the Missouri. A fountain in this flat country is quite a rarity; I haven't seen a bold spring of pure water since I left the Mandans. There are several small springs, but they're all contaminated with the salts that are common in this area, which I believe the Missouri itself is also heavily mixed with, though it's not noticeable to us who are used to it. The exception I note is a very nice spring located under the bluffs on the left side of the Missouri, about five miles downstream from the mouth of the Yellowstone River. The sands in the Missouri aren’t as abundant as they have been recently, being confined only to the points; the riverbed is mostly mud and still too deep for using a setting pole. Captain Clark went out today and killed two deer and an elk, while the hunters got four deer, an elk, and a buffalo. I spotted two large owls with remarkably long feathers on the sides of their heads that looked like ears; I believe they are the large hooting owl, although they are somewhat larger, and their colors are brighter than those commonly found in the United States.
[Clark, May 20, 1805]
May 20th Monday 1805 a fine morning wind from the N E. river falling a little We Set out at 7 oClock and proceeded on verry well as usial by the assistance of the Cord passed Some verry Swift water, river narrow and Crooked, at 11 oClock arrived at the mouth of Shell river on the Lard Side and formed a Camp for the present. haveing passed a large Creek about 4 miles below on the Ld Side which we call Blowing fly Creek from the emence quantites of those insects which geather on our meat in Such numbers that we are oblige to brush them off what we eate.
May 20th, Monday, 1805 - It was a nice morning with a breeze from the northeast. The river was dropping a bit. We set out at 7 o'clock and made good progress as usual with the help of the cord. We passed some really fast water; the river was narrow and winding. At 11 o'clock, we arrived at the mouth of Shell River on the left side and set up camp for the time being. We passed a large creek about 4 miles downstream on the left side, which we named Blowing Fly Creek because of the huge numbers of those insects that gather on our food, so much so that we have to brush them off what we eat.
muscle Shell River falls in on Lard Side 2270 miles up Contains a greater perportion of water than Rivers of its Size below, I measured it and find it to be 110 yards wide, the water of a Greenish yellow Colour, and appers to be navagable for Small Craft, The Minetarras inform us that this river heads in the 1st of the rockey Mountains & passes through a broken Countrey. its head at no great distance from the Yellow Stone River The Countrey about this river as described yesterday we took the Meredian altitude 59° 50' 0" back observation and found the Latd. to be 47° 0' 24"
Muscle Shell River falls in on Lard Side, 2270 miles upstream. It has a greater proportion of water than rivers of its size below. I measured it and found it to be 110 yards wide, with water that has a greenish-yellow color, and it appears to be navigable for small boats. The Minetarras inform us that this river starts in the first of the Rocky Mountains and flows through a rugged area. Its source is not far from the Yellowstone River. The surrounding area of this river, as described yesterday, had us take the meridian altitude at 59° 50' 0" back observation, and we found the latitude to be 47° 0' 24".
The Missouri at the mouth of Shell River is 222 yards wide with a Smoth Current the Missouri water is not So muddey as below, but retains nearly its usial Cholour, and the Sands principally Confined to the points I killed two Deer & an Elk, the hunters killed an Elk & Several deer mearly for their Skins to make Leagins,—Sent men out in every derection, the Countrey generally verry broken Some leavel plains up the Shell river The bottoms of the Shell river is well timbered as also a Small river which falls into that river on the upper Side 5 miles above its mouth. The hills on the Lard. Contain Scattering Pine & Cedar.
The Missouri River at the mouth of Shell River is 222 yards wide with a smooth current. The water here is not as muddy as downstream but keeps its usual color, and the sand is mostly confined to the points. I hunted two deer and an elk, and the other hunters got an elk and several deer mainly for their skins to make leggings. I sent men out in every direction; the land is generally very rough with some flat plains along the Shell River. The banks of the Shell River are well-timbered, as is a small river that joins it on the upper side, five miles above its mouth. The hills on the left side have scattered pine and cedar.
[Lewis, May 21, 1805]
Tuesday May 21st 1805 A delightfull morning set out at an early hour and proceeded on very well, imployed the chord principally; the shores are abbrupt and bould and composed of a black and yellow clay; see no extensive collection of pure sand, the bars are composed black mud and a small poportion of fine sand; the courant still pretty strong. the Missouri in it's course downward makes a suddon and extensive bend to receive the Muscle shell river, the point of country thus formed tho high is still much lower than that surrounding it, thus forming a valley of wavey country which extends itself for a great distance in a Northerly direction; the soil is fertile, produces a fine turf of low grass and some herbs, also immence quantities of the Prickley pear, without a stick of timber of any discription. the country on the South side is high broken and crowned with some scrubby pines and dwarf cedar; the leaf of this pine is much longer than the common pitch or red pine of Virginia, the cone is also longer and slimer, and the imbrications wider and thicker, and the whole frequently covered with rosin. Mineral appearances as usual. the growse or praire hen are now less abundant on the river than they were below; perhaps they betake themselves to the open plains at a distance from the river at this season.-
Tuesday, May 21st, 1805 A beautiful morning. I set out early and made good progress, mainly using the chord; the shores are steep and rocky, made of black and yellow clay; I don’t see any large areas of pure sand, as the bars consist of black mud with a small amount of fine sand; the current is still quite strong. The Missouri River takes a sudden and large bend as it receives the Muscle Shell River; the area formed here, although high, is still much lower than the surrounding land, creating a valley of rolling terrain that stretches a long way north. The soil is fertile, producing a nice covering of low grass and some herbs, as well as huge quantities of prickly pear, with no timber of any kind. The land on the south side is high and rugged, covered with some scrubby pines and dwarf cedar; the leaves of this pine are longer than those of the common pitch or red pine found in Virginia, the cones are also longer and slimmer, with wider and thicker scales, and they're often coated in resin. As usual, there are signs of minerals. The prairie chickens are now less common along the river than they were further down; maybe they move to the open plains away from the river at this time of year.
The wind which was moderate all the fore part of the day continued to encrease in the evening, and about dark veered about to N. W. and blew a storm all night, in short we found ourselves so invelloped with clouds of dust and sand that we could neither cook, eat, nor sleep; and were finally compelled to remove our lodge about eight oClock at night to the foot of an adjacent hill where we were covered in some measure from the wind by the hills. several loose articles blown over board and lost. our first station was on a bar on Stard. opposite the lower point of a small Island, which we now called windy Island. the bends of the river are short and suddon, the points covered with some cottonwood, larger willow, or broadleafed willow with an abundance of the wild rose and some small honeysuckle bushes constitute the undergrowth, the redwood is also found in small quantities. Capt. C walked on shore today and killed 2 Elk; the party killed several deer and a buffaloe Cow.-
The wind, which was moderate for most of the day, picked up in the evening, and around dark it shifted to the northwest and turned into a storm that lasted all night. We found ourselves surrounded by clouds of dust and sand, making it impossible to cook, eat, or sleep. Eventually, we had to move our camp around eight o'clock at night to the base of a nearby hill, where we were somewhat sheltered from the wind by the hills. Several loose items were blown overboard and lost. Our first campsite was on a sandbar on the starboard side, across from the lower point of a small island, which we named Windy Island. The bends in the river are short and sharp, with points covered in some cottonwood, large willows, or broadleaf willows, along with plenty of wild roses and some small honeysuckle bushes as undergrowth. Redwood can also be found in small amounts. Captain C walked ashore today and shot two elk; the crew also killed several deer and a buffalo cow.
[Clark, May 21, 1805]
May 21st Tuesday 1805. a butifull morning, wind from the West, river falling a little, we Set out at an early hour and proceed on in the usial way by the assistance of the Coard principally, but little use of the Oares & less with the poles as the bottoms are muddey, we Se no great bodies of pure Sand the bars & points are rich mud mixed with fine Sand. I walked on Shore Stard. Side the river makes a great bend to the South to receve Shell River, the boint for many miles out in a Northerley direction is a rich uneaven valley Contain Some Short grass, and Prickley pears without timber The Countrey on the South Side of the Missouri is high, Soil and mineral appearance as usial, more Scattering pine & Cedar on the hills, the wind which blew moderatly all the forepart of the day increassd and about Dark Shifted to the N W. and Stormed all night, Several loose articles were blown over board, our lodge & Camp which was on a Sand bar on the Std. Side & opposite to the lower point of an Island we were obliged to move under the hills, the dust & Sand blew in clouds. The bends of the river are Short and points Covered with Cotton wood under groth wild rose bushes I killed 2 Elk to day Several Deer Killd. & a Buffalow Cow.
May 21st, Tuesday, 1805. It was a beautiful morning, with a west wind, and the river was slightly falling. We set out early and continued on as usual, primarily using the cord; the oars were barely useful, and the poles even less so because the bottoms were muddy. We didn’t see any large patches of pure sand; the bars and points were rich mud mixed with fine sand. I walked along the shore on the starboard side, where the river makes a large bend to the south to receive Shell River. The point extends for many miles in a northern direction and features a rich, uneven valley with some short grass and prickly pears, but no timber. The land on the south side of the Missouri is elevated, with the usual soil and mineral appearance, and more scattered pine and cedar on the hills. The wind, which had been blowing moderately all morning, picked up and around dark shifted to the northwest, causing a storm that lasted all night. Several loose items were blown overboard, and we had to move our lodge and camp, which were set up on a sandbar on the starboard side, across from the lower point of an island, under the hills. Dust and sand blew in clouds all around. The bends of the river are short, and the points are covered with cottonwood undergrowth and wild rose bushes. I killed two elk today, several deer, and a buffalo cow.
[Lewis, May 22, 1805]
Wednesday May 22cd 1805. The wind blew so violently this morning that we did not think it prudent to set out untill it had in some measure abated; this did not happen untill 10 A.M. when we proceeded principally by the toe lines the bottoms somewhat wider than usual, the lands fertile or apparently so tho the short grass and the scantey proportion of it on the hills would indicate no great fertility. passed Windy Island on Lard. at 1 M. 51/2 miles above passed a large Island in a bend on Stard. side, and three miles further on the same side passed the entrance of grows Creek 20 yds wide, affords but little water. this creek we named from seeing a number of the pointed tail praire hen near it's mouth, these are the fist we have seen in such numbers for some days. I walked on shore this morning the country is not so broken as yesterday tho still high and roling or wavy; the hills on Lard. side possess more pine than usual; some also on the Stard. hills. Salts and other mineral appearances as usual. the river continues about the same width or from 200 to 250 yds. wide, fewer sandbars and the courant more gentle and regular; game not so abundant as below the Muscle Shell river. I killed a deer in the course of my walk today. Capt. C. also walked out this evening and took a view of the country from a conspicuous point and found it the same as has been discribed. we have caught but few fish since we left the Mandans, they do not bite freely, what we took were the white cat of 2 to 5 lbs. I presume that fish are scarce in this part of the river. We encamped earlyer this evening than usual in order render the oil of a bear which we killed. I do not believe that the Black bear common to the lower part of this river and the Atlantic States, exists in this quarter; we have neither seen one of them nor their tracks which would be easily distinguished by it's shortness of tallons when compared with the brown grizly or white bear. I believe that it is the same species or family of bears which assumes all those colours at different ages and seasons of the year.
Wednesday, May 22, 1805. The wind blew so violently this morning that we decided it wasn’t wise to set out until it calmed down a bit; this didn’t happen until 10 A.M. when we moved forward mainly by pulling with the towlines. The riverbanks were somewhat wider than usual, and the land seemed fertile, although the short and sparse grass on the hills suggested otherwise. We passed Windy Island on the left at 1 P.M., 5.5 miles above, then passed a large island in a bend on the right side, and three miles further on the same side, we passed the entrance to Grows Creek, which is 20 yards wide and offers very little water. We named this creek after seeing several pointed-tailed prairie hens near its mouth; these are the first we’ve seen in such numbers for a few days. I walked ashore this morning; the terrain isn’t as rough as yesterday, though it’s still high and rolling. The hills on the left side have more pines than usual; there are also some on the right hills. There were salt and other mineral signs as usual. The river continues about the same width, between 200 to 250 yards wide, with fewer sandbars and a gentler, more consistent current; game isn’t as plentiful as it was below the Muscle Shell River. I killed a deer during my walk today. Captain C. also went out this evening and checked out the scenery from a prominent point, finding it consistent with previous descriptions. We’ve caught only a few fish since leaving the Mandans; they aren’t biting well. The ones we caught were white cats weighing between 2 to 5 pounds. I suspect fish are scarce in this part of the river. We set up camp earlier this evening than usual to render the oil from a bear we killed. I don’t think that the black bear, which is common in the lower part of this river and the Atlantic States, exists in this area; we haven’t seen any or their tracks, which would easily be recognized by their shorter claws compared to the brown grizzly or white bear. I believe it’s the same species or family of bears that changes its colors at different ages and seasons of the year.
[Clark, May 22, 1805]
May 22nd Wednesday 1805 The wind Continued to blow So violently hard we did not think it prudent to Set out untill it luled a little, about 10 oClock we Set out the morning Cold, passed a Small Island in the bend to the Lard Side, & proceeded on at 5 miles higher passed a Island in a bend to the Stard Side, and a Creek a Short distance above on the Stard Side 20 yds. w Capt Lewis walked out before dinner & Killed a Deer, I walked out after dinner and assended & but a few miles to view the Countrey, which I found roleing & of a verry rich Stickey Soil produceing but little vegitation of any kind except the prickley-piar, but little grass & that verry low. a great deal of Scattering Pine on the Lard Side & Some fur on the Stard. Sd. The mineral productions as described in the proceeding days, game not So abundant as below, the river Continue about the Same width, fewer Sand bars & current more regular, river falls about an inch a day We camped on the Stard. Side, earlier than we intend on account of Saveing the oil of a bear which the party killed late this afternoon.
May 22nd Wednesday 1805 The wind continued to blow so violently that we didn’t think it wise to set out until it calmed down a bit. Around 10 o’clock, we started our journey. The morning was cold, and we passed a small island on the left side. We continued for 5 miles and passed another island on the right side, along with a creek a short distance above on the right side, 20 yards wide. Captain Lewis went out before dinner and killed a deer. After dinner, I went out and walked a few miles to explore the countryside, which I discovered was rolling with very rich, sticky soil, producing very little vegetation except for prickly pear, with hardly any grass, and that very low. There was a lot of scattered pine on the left side and some fir on the right. The mineral resources were as described in previous days, and game was not as plentiful as below. The river continued about the same width, with fewer sandbars and a more regular current, falling about an inch a day. We camped on the right side earlier than planned to save the oil from a bear that the party killed late this afternoon.
Maney of the Creeks which appear to have no water near ther mouths have Streams of running water higher up which rise & waste in the Sand or gravel. the water of those Creeks are So much impregnated with the Salt Substance that it cannot be Drank with pleasure.
Many of the Creeks that seem to have no water near their mouths have streams of running water further upstream that rise and disappear in the sand or gravel. The water in those Creeks is so heavily infused with salt that it's not pleasant to drink.
[Lewis, May 23, 1805]
Thursday May 23rd 1805. Set out early this morning, the frost was severe last night, the ice appeared along the edge of the water, water also freized on the oars. at the distance of one mile passed the entrance of a creek 15 yds. wide on Stard. side, this we call Teapot Creek, it affords no water at it's mouth but has runing water at some small distance above, this I beleive to be the case with many of those creekes which we have passed since we entered this hilley country, the water is absorbed by the earth near the river and of course appear dry; they afford but little water at any rate, and that is so strongly impregnated with these salts that it is unfit for uce; all the wild anamals appear fond of this water; I have tryed it by way of experiment & find it moderately pergative, but painfull to the intestens in it's opperation. this creek runs directly towards some low mountains which lye N. W. of it and appear to be about 30 mes. distant, perhaps it heads in them. This range of mountains appear to be about 70 miles long runing from E to W. having their Eastern extremity about 30 mes. distant in a northwardly direction from pot Island.—also passed two small creeks on Lard. and two others on Stard. all inconsiderable and dry at their entrances. just above the entrance of Teapot Creek on the stard. there is a large assemblage of the burrows of the Burrowing Squirrel they generally seelect a south or a south Easterly exposure for their residence, and never visit the brooks or river for water; I am astonished how this anamal exists as it dose without water, particularly in a country like this where there is scarcely any rain during Yi of the year and more rarely any due; yet we have sometimes found their villages at the distance of five or six miles from any water, and they are never found out of the limits of the ground which their burrows occupy; in the Autumn when the hard frosts commence they close their burrows and do not venture out again untill spring, indeed some of them appear to be yet in winter quarters. passed 3 Islands the two first covered with tall cottonwood timber and the last with willows only. river more rappid, & the country much the same as yesterday. some spruce pine of small size appears among the pitch pine, and reather more rock than usual on the face of the hills. The musquetoes troublesome this evening, a circumstance I did not expect from the temperature of the morning. The Gees begin to lose the feathers of their wings and are unable to fly. Capt Clark walked on shore and killed 4 deer and an Elk. We killed a large fat brown bear which took the water after being wounded and was carried under some driftwood where he sunk and we were unable to get him. Saw but few buffaloe today, but a great number of Elk, deer, some antelopes and 5 bear. The wild rose which is now in blume are very abundant, they appear to differ but little from those common to the Atlantic States, the leaves of the bushes and the bush itself appear to be of somewhat smaller size.
Thursday, May 23, 1805. We set out early this morning; the frost was severe last night, and ice appeared along the edge of the water. Water also froze on the oars. After a mile, we passed the entrance of a creek 15 yards wide on the starboard side, which we call Teapot Creek. There's no water at its mouth, but there is running water a short distance upstream. I believe this is true for many of the creeks we've passed since entering this hilly area; the water gets absorbed by the ground near the river, so they appear dry. They provide very little water anyway, and that water is heavily infused with salts, making it unsuitable for use. All the wild animals seem to prefer this water; I’ve tried it as an experiment and found it somewhat laxative but painful to the intestines during its effect. This creek runs directly toward some low mountains to the northwest, which seem to be about 30 miles away; perhaps it originates in them. This mountain range appears to be about 70 miles long, extending from east to west, with its eastern end about 30 miles away in a northward direction from Pot Island. We also passed two small creeks on the larboard side and two others on the starboard side, all inconsequential and dry at their entrances. Just above the entrance of Teapot Creek on the starboard side, there’s a large cluster of burrows made by the burrowing squirrel. They usually prefer a south or southeast exposure for their homes and never visit the brooks or rivers for water. I'm amazed at how this animal survives without water, especially in a region like this, where it hardly rains for half the year and where dew is even rarer; yet we have sometimes found their colonies five or six miles from any water, and they are never seen outside the area their burrows occupy. In autumn, when the hard frosts begin, they seal their burrows and don't come out again until spring; indeed, some seem to still be hibernating. We passed three islands; the first two were covered with tall cottonwood trees, and the last one had only willows. The river runs faster, and the landscape is much the same as yesterday. Some small spruce pines are mixed in with the pitch pines, and there’s somewhat more rock than usual on the hillsides. The mosquitoes were bothersome this evening, which I didn't expect given the temperature this morning. The geese are starting to lose their wing feathers and can’t fly. Captain Clark walked on shore and shot four deer and an elk. We also killed a large, fat brown bear, which moved into the water after being wounded and swam under some driftwood, where it sank, and we couldn’t retrieve it. We saw only a few buffalo today but encountered many elk, deer, some antelopes, and five bears. The wild roses, which are now in bloom, are very plentiful; they appear to differ little from those common in the Atlantic States, though the leaves of the bushes and the bushes themselves seem to be somewhat smaller.
[Clark, May 23, 1805]
May 23rd Thursday 1805 a Severe frost last night, the Thrmotr. Stood at the freesing point this morning i e 32 a 0. wind S W. the water freeses on the oars. Ice on the edge of the river we Set out at an early hour and passed the mouth a Creek at 1 mile on the Stard. Side which heads in a mountain N W of its mouth 30 or _____ miles, the Countrey on each Side is as passed yesterday passed 2 Small Creeks on the Stard & 2 on the Lard. Side to day. a mountain which appears to be 60 or 70 miles long bearing E. & W is about 25 miles distant from this river on the Stard Side Notherley of Pot Island I walked on Shore and killed 4 deer & an Elk, & a beaver in the evening we killed a large fat Bear, which we unfortunately lost in the river, after being Shot took the water & was Carried under a drift passed in course of this day three Islands, two of them Covered with tall timber & a 3rd with willows
May 23rd, Thursday, 1805: We had a severe frost last night; the thermometer was at freezing point this morning, 32°F. The wind was coming from the southwest. Water was freezing on the oars, and there was ice along the river's edge. We set out early and passed the mouth of a creek on the starboard side, about 1 mile away, which originates in a mountain 30 miles northwest of its mouth. The countryside on both sides was the same as what we encountered yesterday. We passed 2 small creeks on the starboard side and 2 on the port side today. There's a mountain about 25 miles away from this river on the starboard side, just north of Pot Island, that looks to be 60 or 70 miles long, stretching east and west. I walked ashore and killed 4 deer, an elk, and in the evening we shot a large, fat bear, which unfortunately got away in the river. After being shot, it fell into the water and was carried away under some drift. Throughout the day, we passed three islands: two covered with tall trees and a third with willows.
The after part of this day was worm & the Misquitors troublesome. Saw but five Buffalow a number of Elk & Deer & 5 bear & 2 Antilopes to day. the river beginning to rise, and Current more rapid than yesterday, in maney places I saw Spruces on the hills Sides Stard. this evening.
The later part of the day was warm and the mosquitoes were annoying. I only saw five buffalo, a number of elk and deer, five bears, and two antelopes today. The river is starting to rise, and the current is faster than yesterday. In many places, I noticed spruces on the hillsides this evening.
[Lewis, May 24, 1805]
Friday May 24th 1805.
Friday, May 24, 1805.
The water standing in the vessels freized during the night 1/8 of an inch thick, ice also appears along the verge of the river. the folage of some of the cottonwood trees have been entirely distroyed by the frost and are again puting forth other buds. the high country in which we are at present and have been passing for some days I take to be a continuation of what the Indians as well as the French Engages call the Black hills. This tract of country so called consists of a collection of high broken and irregular hills and short chain of mountains sometimes 120 miles in width and again becomeing much narrower, but always much higher than the country on either side; they commence about the head of the Kanzas river and to the West of that river near the Arkansas, from whence they take their course a little to the W. of N. W. approaching the rockey Mountains obliquely, passing the river platte above the forks and intercepting the Yellowstone river near the big bend and passing the Missouri at this place and probably continuing to swell the country as far North as the Saskashawan river tho they are lower here than they are discribed to the Sth. and may therefore probably terminate before they reach the Suskashawan. the black hills in their course nothwardly appear to approach more nearly to the Rocky Mountains.
The water sitting in the containers froze overnight to about 1/8 of an inch thick, and there's also ice forming along the edge of the river. The leaves on some of the cottonwood trees have been completely destroyed by the frost and are now sprouting new buds. The high country we're currently in, which we've been traveling through for several days, seems to be a continuation of what both the Indians and the French trappers refer to as the Black Hills. This area consists of a series of high, uneven hills and a short chain of mountains, sometimes stretching 120 miles wide but often becoming much narrower, though it remains much higher than the surrounding land. They start near the headwaters of the Kansas River and to the west of that river, close to the Arkansas, from which they head slightly west of northwest, approaching the Rocky Mountains at an angle. They pass the Platte River above its forks and intersect the Yellowstone River near the big bend, and they cross the Missouri River at this point, likely extending northward as far as the Saskatchewan River, though they are lower here than described further south and may therefore end before reaching the Saskatchewan. The Black Hills, as they head northward, seem to get closer to the Rocky Mountains.
We set out at an early hour this morning and proceed on principally by the chord untill about 9 A.M. when a fine breeze sprung up from the S. E. and enabled us though the ballance of the day to employ our sails to advantage; we proceed at a pretty good pace notwithstanding the courant of the river was very strong. we passed two large and four small Islands; also several streams on either side; the first of these is a large Creek or small river which disinboged on the Stard. side about 11/2 miles above our encampment of last evening, it is 30 yards wide and contains some water. the bed is gravley and intermixed with some stone, it takes its rise in the mountains which are situated in a Northwardly direction from its entrance, distant about 30 miles. the air is so pure in this open country that mountains and other elivated objects appear much nearer than they really are; these mountains do not appear to be further than 15 m. we sent a man up this creek to explore the country he returned late in the evening and informed that he had proceeded ten miles directly towards these mountains and that he did not think himself by any mean half way these mountains are rockey and covered with some scattering pine. This stream we call North Mountain creek. the next stream in order is a creek which falls in on Lard. 21/2 miles higher; this is 15 yds. wide no water; a large village of the burrowing or barking squirrels on the Stard. side opposite it's entrance, hence the name Little dog Ck. that being the name by which the French Engages call this anamal. at three miles and at 10 ms. from hence still ascending 2 Small creek fall in on the Stard. side, no water. 51/2 miles higher a small river falls in on Lard. side this we called South Mountain creek as from it's direction it appeared to take it's rise in a range of Mountains lying in a S. Westerly direction from it's entrance distant 50 or 60 m.; this creek is 40 yards wide and discharges a handsome stream of water. it's bed is rockey with gravel and sand, the banks high and country broken it's bottom narrow and no timber. The country high and broken, a considerable portion of black rock and brown sandy rock appear in the faces of the hills; the tops of the hills covered with scattering pine spruce and dwarf cedar; the soil poor and sterile, sandy near the tops of the hills, the whole producing but little grass; the narrow bottoms of the Missouri producing little else but Hysop or southern wood and the pulpy leafed thorn. Capt. Clark walked on shore this evening and killed a buffaloe cow, we left 2 Canoes and six men to dress the Cow and bring on the meat, they did not overtake us this evening. game is becoming more scarce, particularly beaver, of which we have seen but few for several days the beaver appears to keep pace with the timber as it declines in quantity they also become more scarce.
We set out early this morning and mainly traveled by paddle until about 9 A.M. when a nice breeze picked up from the southeast, allowing us to take advantage of our sails for the rest of the day. We moved at a pretty good speed even though the current of the river was very strong. We passed two large islands and four small ones, as well as several streams on either side. The first of these is a large creek or small river that empties on the starboard side about 1.5 miles above where we camped last night. It is 30 yards wide and has some water. The bottom is gravelly with some stones mixed in, and it originates in the mountains located about 30 miles to the north. The air in this open country is so clear that mountains and other elevated objects seem much closer than they actually are; the mountains look to be no more than 15 miles away. We sent a man up this creek to explore the area, and he returned late in the evening, telling us that he had gone ten miles straight towards these mountains and did not think he was even halfway there. These mountains are rocky and dotted with some scattered pine trees. We named this stream North Mountain Creek. The next stream is a creek that flows in on the port side 2.5 miles further up. This creek is 15 yards wide and has no water; there’s a large colony of burrowing or barking squirrels on the starboard side opposite its entrance, hence the name Little Dog Creek, which is what the French trappers call this animal. At three miles and again at ten miles from here, two small creeks flow in on the starboard side, but they have no water. Five and a half miles further, a small river flows in on the port side, which we called South Mountain Creek because it seems to originate from a range of mountains that lie to the southwest about 50 or 60 miles away. This creek is 40 yards wide and carries a nice stream of water. Its bed is rocky with gravel and sand, the banks are steep, and the land is uneven; the bottom is narrow with no trees. The area is high and hilly, with considerable black rock and brown sandy rock visible on the slopes; the tops of the hills are covered with scattered pine, spruce, and dwarf cedar. The soil is poor and dry, especially sandy near the hilltops, producing very little grass. The narrow floodplains of the Missouri yield little else but hyssop or southernwood and thorny bushes with fleshy leaves. Captain Clark walked along the shore this evening and shot a buffalo cow. We left two canoes and six men to prepare the cow and bring back the meat, but they didn’t catch up with us tonight. Game is becoming scarcer, especially beavers, of which we have seen very few over the past few days. It seems like the beavers are following the decline in timber, as they too are becoming rarer.
[Clark, May 24, 1805]
May 24th Friday 1805 a Cold night the water in the Small vestles frosed 1/8 of an inch thick, and the thermometer Stood this morning at the freesing point. we Set out at an early hour and proceeded on, at 9 oClock we had a Breeze from the S E which Continued all day. This Breeze afforded us good Sailing, the river rising fast Current verry rapid. passed Several Small Islands, two large & two Small Creeks, the 1st of those Creeks or Small rivers 11/2 m. above our Camp is 30 yards wide and Contains water and appears to take its rise in the North Mountns. which is Situated in a northerley detection about 20 miles distant. 21/2 m. higher a Creek falls in on the Lard. Side, opposit a large village of Barking Squirels. 3 miles Still higher a Small Creek falls in on the Stard. 13 miles higher up a Small river falls in on the Lard Side which is 40 yards wide and has running water. This Stream appears to take its rise in the South Mountains which is Situated in a Southerly direction 30 or 40 miles distant. I walked on the high countrey on the Stard. Side found it broken & Dry Some pine, Spruce & Dwarf Cedar on the hill sides, I Sent one man 10 mile out he reports a Similarity of Countrey back I killed a fat buffalow a Short distance below the place we dined 2 Canoes & 6 men we left to get the meat did not join us this evening. we Camped on the Lard point. the Cotton wood in this point is beginning to put out a Second bud, the first being killed by the frost
May 24th, Friday, 1805. It was a cold night; the water in the small vessels froze about 1/8 of an inch thick, and the thermometer was at freezing this morning. We set out early and continued on. At 9 o'clock, we had a breeze from the southeast that lasted all day. This breeze gave us good sailing, with the river's current rising quickly and flowing very fast. We passed several small islands, two large creeks, and two small creeks. The first of those creeks, about 1.5 miles above our camp, is 30 yards wide and has water flowing in it; it seems to originate in the northern mountains, which are about 20 miles to the north. Two and a half miles further up, a creek enters on the left side, opposite a large village of barking squirrels. Three miles higher, a small creek enters on the right side. Thirteen miles farther up, a small river enters on the left side, which is 40 yards wide and has running water. This stream appears to originate in the southern mountains, situated about 30 to 40 miles to the south. I walked on the high ground on the right side and found it broken and dry, with some pine, spruce, and dwarf cedar on the hillsides. I sent one man out 10 miles, and he reported similar terrain. I killed a fat buffalo a short distance below where we dined. We left two canoes and six men to get the meat, but they didn't join us this evening. We camped on the left point. The cottonwood trees at this point are starting to put out a second bud, the first having been killed by the frost.
[Lewis, May 25, 1805]
Saturday May 25th 1805. The Two canoes which we left behind yesterday to bring on the meat did not arrive this morning untill 8 A M. at which time we set out; the wind being against us we did not proceed with so much ease or expedition as yesterday, we imployed the toe line principally which the banks favored the uce off; the courant strong particularly arround the points against which the courant happened to set, and at the entrances of the little gullies from the hills, those rivulets having brought down considerable quantities of stone and deposited it at their entrances forming partial barriers to the water of the river to the distance of 40 or 50 feet from the shore, arround these the water run with great violence, and compelled us in some instances to double our force in order to get a perorogue or canoe by them. as we ascended the river today I saw several gangs of the bighorned Anamals on the face of the steep bluffs and clifts on the Stard. side and sent drewyer to kill one which he accomplished; Capt. Clark and Bratton who were on shore each killed one of these anamals this evening. The head and horns of the male which Drewyer killed weighed 27 lbs. it was somewhat larger than the male of the common deer, the boddy reather thicker deeper and not so long in proportion to it's hight as the common deer; the head and horns are remakably large compared with the other part of the anamal; the whole form is much more delicate than that of the common goat, and there is a greater disparity in the size of the male and female than between those of either the deer or goat. the eye is large and prominant, the puple of a deep sea green and small, the iris of a silvery colour much like the common sheep; the bone above the eye is remarkably prominant; the head nostrils and division of the upper lip are precisely in form like the sheep. there legs resemble the sheep more than any other animal with which I am acquainted tho they are more delicately formed, like the sheep they stand forward in the knee and the lower joint of the foreleg is smallest where it joins the knee, the hoof is black & large in proportion, is divided, very open and roundly pointed at the toe, like the sheep; is much hollowed and sharp on the under edge like the Scotch goat, has two small hoofs behind each foot below the ankle as the goat sheep and deer have. the belley, inside of the legs, and the extremity of the rump and butocks for about two inches arround the but of the tale, are white, as is also the tale excet just at it's extremity on the upper side which is of a dark brown. the tail is about three inches in length covered with short hair, or at least not longer than that of the boddy; the outher parts of the anamal are of a duskey brown or reather a leadcoloured light brown; the anamal is now sheding it's winter coat which is thick not quite as long as that of the deer and appears to be intermixed with a considerable quantity of a fine fur which lyes next to the skin & conceald by the coarcer hear; the shape of the hair itself is celindric as that of the antelope is but is smaller shorter, and not compressed or flattened as that of the deer's winter coat is, I believe this anamal only sheds it's hair once a year. it has eight fore teeth in the under jaw and no canine teeth. The horns are lagest at their base, and occupy the crown of the head almost entirely. they are compressed, bent backwards and lunated; the surface swelling into wavy rings which incircleing the horn continue to succeed each other from the base to the extremity and becoming less elivated and more distant as they recede from the head. the horn for about two thirds of it's length is filled with a porus bone which is united with the frontal bone. I obtained the bones of the upper part of the head of this animal at the big bone lick. the horns of the female are small, but are also compress bent backwards and incircled with a succession of wavy rings. the horn is of a light brown colour; when dressed it is almost white extreemly transparent and very elastic. this horn is used by the natives in constructing their bows; I have no doubt but it would eligant and ucefull hair combs, and might probably answer as many valuable purposes to civilized man, as it dose to the savages, who form their watercups spoons and platters of it. the females have already brought forth their young indeed from the size of the young I suppose that they produce them early in March. they have from one to two at a birth. they feed on grass but principally on the arromatic herbs which grow on the clifts and inaccessable hights which they usually frequent. the places they gerally celect to lodg is the cranies or cevices of the rocks in the faces of inacessable precepices, where the wolf nor bear can reach them and where indeed man himself would in many instancies find a similar deficiency; yet these anamals bound from rock to rock and stand apparently in the most careless manner on the sides of precipices of many hundred feet. they are very shye and are quick of both sent and sight.
Saturday, May 25, 1805. The two canoes we left behind yesterday to bring in the meat didn't arrive this morning until 8 A.M. At that time, we set out; since the wind was against us, we didn't make as much progress or move as quickly as we did yesterday. We mainly used the tow line, which was easier with the banks. The current was strong, particularly around the points where it was flowing, and at the openings of the small gullies from the hills. Those streams had carried down a significant amount of stone and deposited it at their mouths, creating partial barriers to the river's flow up to 40 or 50 feet from the shore. Around these barriers, the water was rushing violently, forcing us in some cases to double our efforts to get a perogue or canoe past them. As we traveled upstream today, I spotted several groups of big-horned animals on the steep cliffs on the starboard side and sent Drewyer to hunt one, which he successfully did. Captain Clark and Bratton, who were on shore, both killed one of these animals this evening. The head and horns of the male that Drewyer killed weighed 27 pounds; it was somewhat larger than the male of the common deer, with a body that was thicker and deeper, not as long in proportion to its height as the common deer. The head and horns are remarkably large compared to the rest of the animal; its overall shape is much more delicate than that of the common goat, and there is a larger difference in size between the male and female than between those of either the deer or goat. The eye is large and prominent, with a deep sea green pupil that is small, and the iris is silvery, similar to that of the common sheep. The bone above the eye is very prominent; the shape of the head, nostrils, and upper lip is exactly like that of a sheep. Its legs resemble those of a sheep more than any other animal I know, though they are more delicately formed. Like a sheep, they stand forward at the knee, and the lower joint of the foreleg is smallest where it connects to the knee. The hoof is black and relatively large, divided, very open, and rounded at the toe, much like a sheep's; it is also hollowed and sharp on the underside, like the Scottish goat, and has two small hoofs behind each foot below the ankle, as goats, sheep, and deer do. The belly, inside of the legs, and the ends of the rump and buttocks, about two inches around the base of the tail, are white; the tail itself is also white except for the upper side's tip, which is dark brown. The tail is around three inches long and covered with short hair, or at least no longer than that of the body. The rest of the animal is a dusky brown or somewhat light lead-colored brown. It is currently shedding its winter coat, which is thick and not quite as long as that of a deer, and seems to be mixed with a considerable amount of fine fur close to the skin, concealed by the coarser hair. The shape of the hair itself is cylindrical, similar to the antelope's, but smaller, shorter, and not compressed or flattened like a deer's winter coat. I believe this animal only sheds its hair once a year. It has eight front teeth in the lower jaw and no canine teeth. The horns are largest at their base and occupy almost the entire crown of the head. They are compressed, bent backward, and shaped like a crescent; the surface swells into wavy rings that encircle the horn and continue in succession from the base to the tip, becoming less raised and more spaced apart as they get farther from the head. About two-thirds of the horn's length is filled with porous bone that connects to the frontal bone. I obtained the bones from the upper part of this animal's head at the big bone lick. The horns of the female are small, but they are also compressed, bent backward, and encircled by a series of wavy rings. The horn is a light brown color; when processed, it is almost white, extremely transparent, and very elastic. Native people use this horn to make their bows; I have no doubt it would make elegant and useful hair combs and could likely serve many valuable purposes for civilized people, just as it does for the natives, who make their cups, spoons, and plates from it. The females have already given birth to their young; indeed, judging by the size of the young, I suspect they give birth early in March. They typically have one or two at a time. They feed on grass but primarily on the aromatic herbs that grow on the cliffs and inaccessible heights they usually inhabit. The places they generally choose to rest are the crevices or gaps in the rocks on the faces of steep cliffs, where wolves and bears cannot reach them, and even humans would often find it difficult. Yet these animals jump from rock to rock and appear to stand casually on the sides of cliffs that drop many hundreds of feet. They are very shy and have quick senses of both smell and sight.
At the distance of two 3/4 miles above our encampment of last evening we passed a Creek 20 yard wide affording no runing water, we also passed 7 Islands in the course of the day. The Country on either hand is high broken and rockey; the rock is either soft brown sand stone covered with a thin strata of limestone, or a hard black rugged grannite, both usually in horizontal stratas and the Sandy rock overlaying the other.—Salts and quarts still appear, some coal and pumice stone also appear; the river bottoms are narrow and afford scarcely any timber. the bars of the river are composed principally of gravel, but little pine on the hills. We saw a Pole-cats this evening it is the first we have seen for many days. buffalow are now scarce and I begin to fear our harvest of white puddings are at an end.
Two and three-quarters miles past our campsite from last night, we crossed a creek that was 20 yards wide but had no flowing water. Throughout the day, we also passed seven islands. The land on both sides is high, uneven, and rocky; the rock is either soft brown sandstone topped with a thin layer of limestone or a hard black, rugged granite, usually in horizontal layers, with the sandy rock sitting on top. We still see salts and quartz, along with some coal and pumice stone. The riverbanks are narrow and provide very little timber. The river bars are mainly made up of gravel, with hardly any pine on the hills. We spotted a polecat this evening; it's the first one we’ve seen in days. Buffalo are becoming rare, and I’m starting to worry that our supply of white puddings might be running out.
[Clark, May 25, 1805]
May 25th Satturday 1805" The two Canoes left for meat yesterday did not joint us untill 8 oClock this morning at which time we Set out, the morning Cool & pleasent wind a head all day from the S. W. we pass a Creek on the Lard. Side about 20 yards wide, which does not run, we also passd 7 Islands, I walked on Shore and killed a female Ibex or big horn animal in my absence Drewyer & Bratten killed two others, this animale is a species peculiar to this upper part of the Missouri, the head and horns of the male which Drewyer killed to day weighed 27 lbs it was Somewhat larger than the Mail of the Common Deer;) The body reather thicker deeper and not So long in proportion to its hight as the common Deer; the head and horns of the male are remarkably large Compared with the other parts of the animal; the whole form is much more delicate than that of the common goat, and there is a greater disparity in the Size of the mail and female than between those of either the deer or goat. the eye is large and prominant, the puple of a deep Sea green and Small, the iris of a Silvery Colour much like the common Sheep; the bone above the Eye is remarkably prominant; the head nostrils and division of the upper lip are precisely in form like the Sheep. their legs resemble the Sheep more than any other animal with which I am acquainted tho they are more delicately formed, like the Sheep they stand foward in the Knee and the lower joint of the fore leg is Smallest where it joins the Knee, the hoof is black and large in perpotion, is divided, very open and roundly pointed at the toe; like the Sheep; is much hollowed and Sharp on the under edge like the Scotch goat, has two Small Hoofs behind each foot below the ankle as the goat Sheep and Deer have. the belley, iner Side of the legs, and the extremity of the rump and buttocks for about two inches 1/2 around the but of the tail, are white, as is also the tail except just at its extremity on the upper Side which is of a dark brown. the tail is about 3 inches in length covered with Short hair, or at least not longer than that of the boddy; the outer part of the animal are of a duskey brown or reather a lead coloured light brown; the animal is now Sheding its winter coat which is thick not quite as long as that of the Deer and appears to be inter mixt with a considerable quantity of fine fur which lies next to the Skin and concealed by the Coarcer hair; the Shape of the hair itself is cylindric as that of the Antilope is, but is Smaller, Shorter and not Compressed or flattened as that of the deers winter Coat is. I believe this animal only Sheds it's hair once a year. it has Eight fore teeth in the underjaw and no canine teeth. The Horns are large at their base, and occupy the Crown of the head almost entirely, they are compressed, bent backwards and lunated; the Surface Swelling into wavey rings which incircleing the horn continue to Succeed each other from the base to the extremity and becomeing less elivated and more distant as they receed from the head. The horn for about two thirds of its length is filled with a porus bone which is united with the frontal bone (Capt. Lewis obtained the bones of the upper part of the head of this Animal at the big Bone Lick in the State of Kentucky which I Saw and find to be the Same in every respect with those of the Missouri and the Rockey Mountains) the horns of the female are Small, but are also compressed and bent backwards and incircled with a Succession of wavy rings. the horn is of a light brown Colour; when Dressed it is almost white extreamly transparent and very elastic. this horn is used by the nativs in constructing their bows; I have no doubt of it's elegance and usefullness in hair Combs, and might probably answer as maney valuable purpoces to civilized man, as it does to the native indians, who form their water Cups, Spoons and platters of it. the females have already brought forth their young indeed from the Size of the young, I Suppose that they produce them early in March. they have from one to two at a birth. they feed on grass, but principally on the arramatic herbs which grow on the Clifts and inaccessable hights which they frequent most commonly, and the places they generally collect to lodge is the Cranies or Cevices of the rocks in the face of inaccessable precepices, where the wolf nor Bear Can reach them, and where indeed man himself would in maney instances find a Similar deficiency; yet those animals bound from rock to rock and Stand apparently in the most Careless manner on the Side of precipices of maney hundred feet. they are very Shy and quick of both Sent and Sight. The flesh of this animal is dark and I think inferior to the flesh of the Common Deer, and Superior to the antilope of the Missouri and the Columbian Plains-. In my walk of this day I saw mountts. on either side of the river at no great distance, those mountains appeared to be detached, and not ranges as laid down by the Minetarrees, I also think I saw a range of high mounts. at a great distance to the S S W. but am not certain as the horozon was not clear enough to view it with Certainty. The country on either side is high broken and rockey a dark brown hard rugid Stone intermixed with a Soft white Sand Stone. the hills contain Coal or cabonated wood as below and Some Scattering pumistone. the Sides of the river is bordered with coars gravel, which in maney places have washed either together or down Small brooks and forms bars at Some distance in the water, around which the current passes with great valocity. the bottoms between hills and river are narrow and Contain Scercely any timber. The appearence of Salts, and bitumun Still Continue. we Saw a polecat to day being the first which we have Seen for Some time past. The Air of this quarter is pure and helthy. the water of the Missouri well tasted not quite So muddy as it is below, not withstanding the last rains has raised the river a little it is less muddy than it was before the rain.
May 25th, Saturday, 1805: The two canoes we sent out for meat yesterday finally joined us at 8 o'clock this morning, at which point we set out. The morning was cool and pleasant, with a headwind all day from the southwest. We passed a creek on the left side, about 20 yards wide, that was dry. We also passed seven islands. I walked on shore and killed a female ibex, or big horn animal; during my absence, Drewyer and Bratten killed two others. This animal is a species unique to this upper part of the Missouri. The head and horns of the male that Drewyer killed today weighed 27 lbs and were somewhat larger than a common deer male. The body is thicker and deeper, and not as long in proportion to its height as a common deer; the head and horns of the male are remarkably large compared to the rest of the body. Its overall form is much more delicate than that of a common goat, and there is a greater size difference between males and females than between those of either deer or goats. The eyes are large and prominent, with a deep sea green pupil and a silvery iris, similar to that of a common sheep. The bone above the eye is notably prominent; the head, nostrils, and division of the upper lip are shaped like that of a sheep. Their legs resemble those of a sheep more than any other animal I know, though they are more delicately formed. Like sheep, they stand forward at the knee, and the lower joint of the foreleg is smallest where it connects to the knee. The hooves are black, large in proportion, divided, very open, and pointed at the toe, similar to sheep; they are also much hollowed and sharp on the underside like the Scottish goat, with two small hooves behind each foot below the ankle, as seen in goats, sheep, and deer. The belly, inner sides of the legs, and the ends of the rump and buttocks—about 2.5 inches around the base of the tail—are white, as is the tail except for the dark brown tip on the upper side. The tail is about 3 inches long, covered with short hair, not longer than that of the body. The outer fur of the animal is a dusky brown or rather a lead-colored light brown. The animal is currently shedding its winter coat, which is thick, not quite as long as that of a deer, and appears to be mixed with a significant amount of fine fur next to the skin, concealed by the coarser fur. The shape of the hair itself is cylindrical like that of an antelope, but smaller, shorter, and not flattened like a deer's winter coat. I believe this animal only sheds its hair once a year. It has eight front teeth in the lower jaw and no canine teeth. The horns are large at the base, occupying almost the entire crown of the head, and are compressed, bent backward, and curved. The surface swells into wavy rings that encircle the horn, becoming lower and more distant as they move away from the head. For about two-thirds of their length, the horns are filled with porous bone connected to the frontal bone (Capt. Lewis obtained the upper bones of this animal’s head at the Big Bone Lick in Kentucky, which I saw, and they are identical in every respect to those from Missouri and the Rocky Mountains). The horns of the female are smaller but are also compressed and bent backward with a series of wavy rings. The horn is light brown; when processed, it is nearly white, extremely transparent, and very elastic. This horn is used by natives in making their bows; I have no doubt about its elegance and usefulness in hair combs, and it could serve many valuable purposes for civilized people, just as it does for the native Indians, who make cups, spoons, and platters from it. The females have already given birth; based on the size of the young, I suspect they give birth early in March. They have one or two offspring at a time. They eat grass, but mainly the aromatic herbs that grow on cliffs and in the high, inaccessible areas they frequent. Their preferred places to rest are the crevices or crannies of rocks on steep cliffs, where wolves or bears cannot reach them, and where even humans often find it challenging to access; still, these animals leap from rock to rock and appear to stand casually on the sides of cliffs hundreds of feet high. They are very shy and have quick senses of smell and sight. The flesh of this animal is dark and, in my opinion, inferior to that of the common deer, but superior to that of the antelope found in Missouri and the Columbian Plains. During my walk today, I saw mountains on either side of the river nearby; these mountains seemed to be detached rather than forming a range as noted by the Minetarrees. I also think I spotted a range of high mountains in the distance to the south-southwest, but I’m not sure since the horizon was not clear enough to see it definitively. The land on both sides is high, rugged, and rocky, with dark brown, hard, rough stone mixed with some soft white sandstone. The hills contain coal or carbonized wood below, along with some scattered pumice stone. The riverbank is lined with coarse gravel, which in many places has washed either together or into small brooks, creating bars some distance into the water, around which the current flows rapidly. The lowlands between the hills and the river are narrow and contain hardly any trees. The presence of salts and bitumen continues. We saw a polecat today; it was the first one we’d seen in a while. The air in this area is pure and healthy. The water of the Missouri tastes good and is not as muddy as it is downstream; despite the recent rains raising the river a bit, it is less muddy than it was before the rain.
[Lewis, May 26, 1805]
Sunday May 26th 1805. Set out at an early hour and proceeded principally by the toe line, using the oars mearly to pass the river in order to take advantage of the shores. scarcely any bottoms to the river; the hills high and juting in on both sides, to the river in many places. the stone tumbleing from these clifts and brought down by the rivulets as mentioned yesterday became more troublesome today. the black rock has given place to a very soft sandstone which appears to be washed away fast by the river, above this and towards the summits of the hills a hard freestone of a brownish yellow colour shews itself in several stratas of unequal thicknesses frequently overlain or incrusted by a very thin strata of limestone which appears to be formed of concreted shells. Capt. Clark walked on shore this morning and ascended to the summit of the river hills he informed me on his return that he had seen mountains on both sides of the river runing nearly parrallel with it and at no great distance; also an irregular range of mountains on lard. about 50 mes. distant, the extremities of which boar W and N. W. from his station. he also saw in the course of his walk, some Elk, several herds of the Big horn, and the large hare; the latter is common to every part of this open country. scarcely any timber to be seen except the few scattering pine and spruce which crown the high hills, or in some instances grow along their sides. In the after part of the day I also walked out and ascended the river hills which I found sufficiently fortiegueing. on arriving to the summit one of the highest points in the neighbourhood I thought myself well repaid for any labour; as from this point I beheld the Rocky Mountains for the first time, I could only discover a few of the most elivated points above the horizon, the most remarkable of which by my pocket compass I found bore N. 65° W. being a little to the N. of the N. W. extremity of the range of broken mountains seen this morning by Capt. C. these points of the Rocky Mountains were covered with snow and the sun shone on it in such manner as to give me the most plain and satisfactory view. while I viewed these mountains I felt a secret pleasure in finding myself so near the head of the heretofore conceived boundless Missouri; but when I reflected on the difficulties which this snowey barrier would most probably throw in my way to the Pacific, and the sufferings and hardships of myself and party in them, it in some measure counterballanced the joy I had felt in the first moments in which I gazed on them; but as I have always held it a crime to anticipate evils I will believe it a good comfortable road untill I am compelled to beleive differently. saw a few Elk & bighorns at a distance on my return to the river I passed a creek about 20 yds. wide near it's entrance it had a handsome little stream of runing water; in this creek I saw several softshelled Turtles which were the first that have been seen this season; this I believe proceeded reather from the season than from their non existence in the portion of the river from the Mandans hither. on the Stard. shore I killed a fat buffaloe which was very acceptable to us at this moment; the party came up to me late in the evening and encamped for the night on the Lard. side. it was after dark before we finished butchering the buffaloe, and on my return to camp I trod within five inches of a rattle snake but being in motion I passed before he could probably put himself in a striking attitude and fortunately escaped his bite, I struck about at random with my espontoon being directed in some measure by his nois untill I killed him. Our hunters had killed two of the Bighorned Anamals since I had left them. we also passed another creek a few miles below Turtle Creek on the Stard. 30 yds in width which also had runing water bed rockey.- late this evening we passed a very bad rappid which reached quite across the river, the party had considerable difficulty in ascending it altho they doubled their crews and used both the rope and the pole. while they were passing this rappid a female Elk and it's fawn swam down throught the waves which ran very high, hence the name of Elk rappids which they instantly gave this place, these are the most considerable rappids which we have yet seen on the missouri and in short the only place where there has appeared to be a suddon decent. opposite to these rappids there is a high bluff and a little above on Lard. a small cottonwood bottom in which we found sufficient timber for our fires and encampment. here I rejoined the party after dark. The appearances of coal in the face of the bluffs, also of birnt hills, pumice stone salt and quarts continue as yesterday. This is truly a desert barren country and I feel myself still more convinced of it's being a continuation of the black hills. we have continued every day to pass more or less old stick lodges of the Indians in the timbered points, there are two even in this little bottom where we lye.-
Sunday, May 26, 1805. We set out early and mainly moved by the toe line, using the oars only to cross the river to take advantage of the shores. There were hardly any river bottoms; the hills were steep and jutted into the river in many places. The stones tumbling from these cliffs and brought down by the streams, as I mentioned yesterday, became more troublesome today. The black rock has been replaced by a very soft sandstone, which seems to be washing away quickly due to the river, and above this, toward the tops of the hills, a hard brownish-yellow freestone appeared in several layers of uneven thickness, often covered by a very thin layer of limestone that seems to be made of compacted shells. Captain Clark walked on shore this morning and climbed to the top of the river hills. He told me upon his return that he saw mountains on both sides of the river running almost parallel to it and not very far away; he also spotted an irregular range of mountains on land about 50 miles distant, whose ends pointed W and NW from his location. He also saw elk, several herds of bighorns, and the large hares during his walk; the latter are common all over this open country. There was hardly any timber to be seen except for a few scattered pines and spruces that crowned the high hills or grew along their sides in some cases. Later in the day, I also went out and climbed the river hills, which I found quite exhausting. Upon reaching the summit of one of the highest points nearby, I felt well rewarded for my efforts as I spotted the Rocky Mountains for the first time. I could only make out a few of the tallest peaks above the horizon, the most notable of which, according to my pocket compass, was located N 65° W, just to the north of the northwestern end of the range of broken mountains that Captain C. saw this morning. These points of the Rocky Mountains were covered in snow, and the sun shone on them in such a way that provided me with a clear and satisfactory view. While I looked at these mountains, I felt a secret pleasure in being so close to what I had previously thought of as the boundless Missouri; but when I considered the challenges that this snowy barrier would likely pose on my way to the Pacific, and the suffering and hardships that my party and I would face, it somewhat dampened the joy I felt when I first gazed upon them. However, since I've always believed it's a mistake to anticipate misfortunes, I will think positively about it until I have reason to believe otherwise. I saw a few elk and bighorns at a distance on my return to the river and passed a creek about 20 yards wide, which had a lovely little stream of running water near its entrance. In this creek, I saw several soft-shelled turtles, the first I've seen this season; I believe this is more due to the season than their absence in the river section from the Mandans to here. On the starboard shore, I shot a fat buffalo, which was very welcome to us at that moment. The party caught up with me late in the evening and set up camp for the night on the left side. It was after dark when we finished butchering the buffalo, and on my way back to camp, I nearly stepped on a rattlesnake, but because I was moving, I passed by before it could get into a striking position, and I fortunately escaped its bite. I struck out randomly with my espontoon, guided somewhat by its noise until I killed it. Our hunters had taken down two bighorned animals since I left them. We also crossed another creek a few miles downstream from Turtle Creek on the starboard side, 30 yards wide, which also had running water and a rocky bed. Late this evening, we encountered a very bad rapid that spanned the entire river; the party had significant trouble getting through despite doubling their crews and using both rope and pole. While passing through this rapid, a female elk and her fawn swam through the high waves, leading us to name this spot Elk Rapids. These are the most significant rapids we've seen on the Missouri so far and, in short, the only place where there seems to be a sudden drop. Across from these rapids, there is a high bluff, and just above it on the left side is a small cottonwood bottom where we found enough timber for our fires and campsite. I rejoined the party after dark. The signs of coal in the bluffs, as well as burnt hills, pumice stone, salt, and quartz, continued as they did yesterday. This is truly a barren desert country, and I’m more convinced that it is part of the black hills. Every day, we keep passing more or less old stick lodges of the Indians in the wooded areas; there are even two in this little bottom where we are camped.
[Clark, May 26, 1805]
May 26th Sunday 1805 We Set out early and proceeded as yesterday wind from the S. W. the river enclosed with very high hills on either Side. I took one man and walked out this morning, and ascended the high countrey to view the mountains which I thought I Saw yesterday, from the first Sumit of the hill I could plainly See the Mountains on either Side which I Saw yesterday and at no great distance from me, those on the Stard Side is an errigular range, the two extremities of which bore West and N. West from me. those Mountains on the Lard. Side appeared to be Several detached Knobs or mountains riseing from a leven open Countrey, at different distances from me, from South West to South East, on one the most S. Westerly of those Mountains there appeared to be Snow. I crossed a Deep holler and assended a part of the plain elevated much higher than where I first viewed the above mountains; from this point I beheld the Rocky Mountains for the first time with Certainty, I could only discover a fiew of the most elivated points above the horizon. the most remarkable of which by my pocket Compas I found bore S. 60 W. those points of the rocky Mountain were Covered with Snow and the Sun Shown on it in Such a manner as to give me a most plain and Satisfactory view. whilst I viewed those mountains I felt a Secret pleasure in finding myself So near the head of the heretofore Conceived boundless Missouri; but when I reflected on the difficulties which this Snowey barrier would most probably throw in my way to the Pacific Ocean, and the Sufferings and hardships of my Self and party in them, it in Some measure Counter ballanced the joy I had felt in the first moments in which I gazed on them; but as I have always held it little Short of Criminality to anticipate evils I will allow it to be a good Comfortable road untill I am Compelled to believe otherwise The high Country in which we are at present and have been passing for Some days I take to be a continuation of what the Indians as well as the French Engages call the Black hills. This tract of Country So Called Consists of a Collection of high broken and irregular hills and Short Chains of Mountains, sometimes 100 miles in width and again becoming much narrower, but always much higher than the Country on either Side; they commence about the head of the Kanzas river and to the west of that river near the Arkansaw river, from whence they take their Cource a little to the west of N. W. approaching the Rocky Mountains obliquely passing the river Platt near the forks, and intersepting the River Rochejhone near the big bend of that river, and passing the Missouri at this place-, and probably Continueing to Swell the Country as far North as the Saskashawan river. tho they are lower here than they are discribed to the South and may therefore termonate before they reach the Saskashawan. the Black hills in their Course northerly appear to approach more nearly the Rocky Mountains. I Saw a great number of white brant, also the common brown brant, Geese of the common Size & kind and a Small Species of geese, which differs considerably from the Common or Canadian Goose; their necks, head and backs are considerably thicker, Shorter and larger than the other in propotion to its Size they are also more than a third Smaller, and their note more like that of the brant or young goose which has not perfectly acquired his note, in all other respect they are the Same in Colour habits and the number of feathers in the tail, they frequently also ascocate with the large Geese when in flocks, but never Saw them pared off with the larger or common goose. The white Brant ascocates in very large flocks, they do not appear to be mated or pared off as if they intended to raise their young in this quarter, I therefore doubt whether they reside here dureing the Summer for that purpose. this bird is larger than the Common brown brant or 2/3 of the common goose. it is not So long by Six inches from point to point of the wings when extended as the other; the back head and neck are also larger and Stronger; their beak, legs and feet are of a redish flesh coloured white. the eye of a moderate Size, the puple of a deep Sea green encircled with a ring of yellowish brown. it has 16 feathers of equal length in the tail their note differs but little from the Common brant. they are of a pure white except the large feathers of the 1st and 2d joint of the wings which are jut black.
May 26th, Sunday, 1805 We set out early and continued on from yesterday, with the wind coming from the southwest. The river was flanked by very high hills on both sides. I took one man with me this morning and hiked up to a high point to get a view of the mountains I thought I saw yesterday. From the summit of the hill, I could clearly see the mountains on both sides that I had seen before, not too far away. The ones on the starboard side formed an irregular range, with the two ends pointing west and northwest from me. The mountains on the larboard side seemed to be several separate hills rising from a flat landscape, spaced out from southwest to southeast. On one of the most southwest hills, there appeared to be snow. I crossed a deep hollow and climbed part of a plateau that was much higher than where I had first viewed the mountains. From this point, I could see the Rocky Mountains for the first time with certainty; I could only make out a few of the highest peaks above the horizon. The most notable of these, according to my pocket compass, pointed S. 60 W. These Rocky Mountain peaks were covered in snow, and the sun shone on them in such a way that I got a clear and satisfying view. While I looked at those mountains, I felt a secret pleasure in realizing I was so close to the previously imagined endless Missouri River. However, when I thought about the difficulties that this snowy barrier would likely present on my path to the Pacific Ocean, and the hardships my party and I would endure because of it, my initial joy was somewhat balanced out by that reflection. But since I've always viewed it as nearly a sin to anticipate misfortunes, I'll consider it a good, comfortable road until I have reason to believe otherwise. The high country we are currently traveling through, which we have been in for several days, I believe is a continuation of what the Indians and French traders refer to as the Black Hills. This area consists of a collection of high, broken, and irregular hills along with short mountain ranges, sometimes spanning 100 miles in width and occasionally becoming much narrower, but always rising higher than the surrounding landscape. They begin around the head of the Kansas River and to the west of that river near the Arkansas River, from where they head slightly northwest, approaching the Rocky Mountains at an angle, passing the Platte River near its confluence, intersecting the Rochejhone River near its big bend, and crossing the Missouri River at this location, likely continuing to expand the land as far north as the Saskatchewan River. Although they are lower here than described further south and may terminate before reaching Saskatchewan, the Black Hills appear to get closer to the Rocky Mountains as they head north. I saw a large number of white brant, as well as the common brown brant and geese of standard size and type, along with a small species of goose, which is quite different from the common or Canadian goose; their necks, heads, and backs are noticeably thicker, shorter, and larger in proportion to their size, and they are also over a third smaller. Their call is more like that of the brant or a young goose that hasn't fully developed its voice, but in every other way, they are the same in color, habits, and the number of tail feathers. They frequently associate with the larger geese in flocks but I've never seen them paired with the larger, common goose. The white brant gather in very large groups, and they don't seem to be mated or paired off as if they plan to raise their young here, leading me to doubt that they stay here during the summer for that purpose. This bird is larger than the common brown brant or two-thirds the size of the common goose. When its wings are extended, it is six inches shorter than the other; the back, head, and neck are also larger and sturdier. Their beak, legs, and feet are reddish flesh-colored, with white. The eyes are of moderate size, with deep sea-green pupils encircled by a ring of yellowish-brown. It has 16 feathers of equal length in its tail, and its call differs little from that of the common brant. They are completely white, except for the large feathers of the first and second joints of the wings, which are just black.
The country which borders the river is high broken and rocky, generally imbeded with a Soft Sand Stone higher up the hill the Stone is of a brownish yellow hard and gritty those Stones wash down from the hills into the river and cause the Shore to be rocky &c. which we find troublesom to assend there is Scerce any bottom between the Hills & river and but a fiew trees to be Seen on either Side except Scattering pine on the Sides of the emence hills; we passed 2 Creeks on the Stard Side both of them had running water in one of those Creek Capt Lewis tells me he saw Soft Shell Turtle Capt Lewis in his walk killed a fat Buffalow which we were in want of our hunters killed 2 Mountain rams or bighorns in the evening late we passed a rapid which extended quite across the river we assended it by the assistance of a Cord & poles on the Lard. Side the Cliffs jut over, the opposit Side is a Small leavel bottom, we Camped a little above in a Small grove of Cotton trees on the Lard. Side in the rapid we saw a Dow Elk & her faun, which gave rise to the name of Elk & faun Riffle we had a few drops of rain at Dark.—the Salts Coal & Burnt hills & Pumicston Still Continue, game Scerce this Countrey may with propriety I think be termed the Deserts of America, as I do not Conceive any part can ever be Settled, as it is deficent in water, Timber & too Steep to be tilled. We pass old Indian lodges in the woody points everry day & 2 at our camp &c
The land next to the river is uneven and rocky, mostly covered with a soft sandstone. Higher up the hill, the stone is a brownish-yellow, hard, and gritty. Those stones wash down from the hills into the river, making the shore rocky, which we find difficult to navigate. There’s hardly any solid ground between the hills and the river, and there are only a few trees visible on either side, mainly scattered pines on the steep hillsides. We passed two creeks on the starboard side, both with running water. In one of those creeks, Captain Lewis mentioned seeing a soft-shell turtle. While walking, Captain Lewis shot a plump buffalo, which we needed, and our hunters also caught two mountain rams or bighorns. Late in the evening, we encountered a rapid that stretched across the entire river. We navigated it with the help of a cord and poles from the larboard side. The cliffs jut out, and the opposite side features a small flat area. We set up camp a bit further up in a small grove of cottonwood trees on the larboard side. In the rapid, we spotted a doe elk and her fawn, which led to the name Elk and Fawn Riffle. We had a few drops of rain after dark. The salt flats, burnt hills, and pumice stone are still present, and game is scarce. I believe this area can rightfully be called the Deserts of America, as I don’t think any part of it can ever be settled due to a lack of water, timber, and the steep terrain making it impossible to farm. We see old Indian lodges in the wooded areas every day, including two at our camp.
[Lewis, May 26, 1805]
May 26, 1805. One of the party killed a bighorned, the head and horns of which weighed 27 lbs. a hare was also killed which weighed 81/2 lbs. the hare are now of a plale lead brown colour-
May 26, 1805. One of the group killed a bighorn sheep, the head and horns of which weighed 27 lbs. A hare was also killed that weighed 8.5 lbs. The hares are now a pale lead brown color.
[Lewis, May 27, 1805]
Monday May 27th 1805. The wind blew so hard this morning that we did not sent out untill 10 A.M. we employed the chord most of the day; the river becomes more rappid and is intercepted by shoals and a greater number of rocky points at the mouths of the little gulies than we experienced yesterday. the bluffs are very high steep rugged, containing considerable quantities of stone and border the river closely on both sides; once perhaps in the course of several miles there will be a few acres of tolerably level land in which two or thre impoverished cottonwood trees will be seen. great quantities of stone also lye in the river and garnish it's borders, which appears to have tumbled from the bluffs where the rains had washed away the sand and clay in which they were imbeded. the bluffs are composed of irregular tho horizontal stratas of yellow and brown or black clay, brown and yellowish white sand, of soft yellowish white sand stone and a hard dark brown free stone, also of large round kidneyformed and irregular seperate masses of a hard black Iron stone, which is imbeded in the Clay and sand. some little pine spruce and dwarf cedar on the hills. some coal or carbonated wood still makes it's appearance in these bluffs, pumicestone and birnt hills it's concommutants also are seen. the salts and quarts are seen but not in such abundance. the country more broken and barren than yesterday if possible. about midday it was very warm to this the high bluffs and narrow channel of the river no doubt contributed greatly. we passed a small untimbered Island this morning on the Lard. side of the river just above our encampment of last evening. saw a few small herds of the Bighorned anamals and two Elk only, of the last we killed one, the river is generally about 200 yds. wide, very rappid and has a perceptable fall or declination through it's whole course.
Monday, May 27th, 1805. The wind was blowing so hard this morning that we didn't set out until 10 A.M. We spent most of the day working with the chord; the river is becoming more rapid and is interrupted by shoals and a greater number of rocky points at the mouths of the little gullies than we encountered yesterday. The bluffs are very high, steep, and rugged, containing significant amounts of stone and closely lining the river on both sides; there are only a few acres of relatively flat land over several miles, where we can see two or three struggling cottonwood trees. Large quantities of stone also lie in the river and line its banks, which seems to have fallen from the bluffs where the rains washed away the sand and clay they were embedded in. The bluffs consist of irregular but horizontal layers of yellow and brown or black clay, brown and yellowish-white sand, soft yellowish-white sandstone, and hard dark brown freestone. There are also large round kidney-shaped and irregular separate masses of hard black ironstone embedded in the clay and sand. Some small pine, spruce, and dwarf cedar grow on the hills. Coal or carbonized wood still appears in these bluffs, along with pumice stone and burnt hills. Salts and quartz are also visible but not as abundant. The land is more broken and barren than yesterday, if that's even possible. Around midday, it was quite warm, thanks in part to the high bluffs and narrow channel of the river. We passed a small unwooded island this morning on the left side of the river, just above our campsite from last evening. We saw a few small herds of bighorn animals and only two elk; we killed one of the latter. The river is generally about 200 yards wide, very rapid, and has a noticeable fall or decline throughout its entire course.
This evening we encamped, for the benefit of wood, near two dead toped cottonwood trees on the Lard. side; the dead limbs which had fallen from these trees furnished us with a scanty supply only, and more was not to be obtained in the neighbourhood.-
This evening we set up camp near two dead cottonwood trees on the left side, hoping to find some wood. The fallen branches from these trees provided us with only a small amount, and there wasn’t any more to be found nearby.
[Clark, May 27, 1805]
May 27th Monday 1805. The wind blew hard from the S W. which detained us untill about 10 oClock, at which time we Set out and proceeded on, passed a Small nacked Island on the Lard Side imediately above the timber in which we Camped The river is verry Shoaley and the bad places are verry numerous, i e at the mouth of every Drean the rocks which is a hard dark gritey Stone is thrown out Some distance in the river which Cause a Considerable riffle on that Side, the hills approach the river verry Close on either Side, river narrow & no timber except Some Scattering pine on the hills & hill Sides, the Salts, Coal, burn hills & Pumice Stone &c. Continue, the hills are Generally Bluffs of various Coloured earth most commonly black with different quallities stone intermixed Some Stratums of Soft Sand Stone, Some hard, Some a dark brown & yellow hard grit, those Stones are loosened by the earths washing from them into the river and ultimately role down into the river, which appears to be Crowded with them. This day is verry worm—we only Saw a fiew Small herds of the big horn animals on the hills, and two Elk one of which We killed, we Camped at 2 dead top trees on the Lard Side. The river is Genly about 200 yards wide and Current very Swift to day and has a verry perceptiable fall in all its Course—it rises a little.
May 27th, Monday, 1805. The wind was blowing hard from the southwest, which held us up until about 10 o'clock. At that time, we set out and continued on, passing a small bare island on the left side, just above the timber where we camped. The river is very shallow, and there are many bad spots; at the mouth of every creek, rocks—dark, gritty stones—are thrown out a short distance into the river, creating a considerable riffle on that side. The hills come very close to the river on both sides, making it narrow with no timber except for some scattered pines on the hills and slopes. The salt, coal, burnt hills, pumice stone, etc., continue. The hills are generally bluffs of various colored earth, most commonly black, mixed with different qualities of stone. Some layers of soft sandstone, some hard, some dark brown and yellow hard grit can be found. These stones are loosened as the earth washes away from them into the river and eventually roll down into the river, which appears to be crowded with them. Today is very warm—we only saw a few small herds of big horn sheep on the hills and two elk, one of which we killed. We camped at two dead top trees on the left side. The river is generally about 200 yards wide, and the current is very swift today with a noticeable drop in its course—it rises a little.
[Lewis, May 28, 1805]
Tuesday May 28th 1805. This morning we set forward at an early hour; the weather dark and cloudy, the are smokey, had a few drops of rain; we employed the chord generally to which we also gave the assistance of the pole at the riffles and rocky points; these are as numerous and many of them much worse than those we passed yesterday; arround those points the water drives with great force, and we are obliged in many instaces to steer our vessels through the appertures formed by the points of large sharp rocks which reach a few inches above the surface of the water, here sould our chord give way the bough is instantly drivin outwards by the stream and the vessel thrown with her side on the rocks where she must inevitably overset or perhaps be dashed to peices; our ropes are but slender, all of them except one being made of Elk's skin and much woarn, frequently wet and exposed to the heat of the weather are weak and rotten; they have given way several times in the course of the day but happily at such places that the vessel had room to wheel free of the rocks and therefore escaped injury; with every precaution we can take it is with much labour and infinite risk that we are enabled to get around these points. found a new indian lodge pole today which had been brought down by the stream, it was woarn at one end as if draged by dogs or horses; a football also, and several other articles were found, which have been recently brought down by the courant; these are strong evedences of Indians being on the river above us, and probably at no great distance; the football is such as I have seen among the Minetaries and therefore think it most probable that they are a band of the Minetaries of Fort de Prarie. the river country &c continued much as yesterday untill late in the evening when we arrived at the entrance of a large Creek discharges itself on the Stard. side, is 35 Yd. wide and contains runing water; here the hills recede from the river on both sides, the bottoms extensive particularly on the Stard. side where the hills are comparitively low and open into three large vallies which extend for a considerable distance in a Northwardly direction; here also the river spreads to more than 3 times it's former width and is filled with a number of small and handsome Islands covered with cottonwood some timber also in the bottoms, the land again fertile. These appearances were quite reviving after the drairy country through which we had been passing. Capt. C. walked on shore in the early part of the day and killed a big horned anamal; he saw a great number of them as well as ourselves in the broken country. at 10 A.M. a few drops of rain again fell and were attended with distant thunder which is the first we have heated since we left the Mandans.—This evening we encamped on Stard. opposite to the entrance of a small Creek. I beleive the bighorn have their young at a very early season, say early in March for they appear now to be half grown. One of the party saw a very large bear today but being some distance from the river and no timber to conceal him he did not think proper to fire on him.
Tuesday, May 28, 1805. This morning, we got underway early; the weather was dark and cloudy, the air smoky, and we experienced a few drops of rain. We generally used the cord and also relied on the pole at the riffles and rocky points; there were many of these, and many were worse than those we passed yesterday. Around these points, the water flowed with great force, and we often had to navigate our vessels through the openings formed by large, sharp rocks that protruded a few inches above the water's surface. If our cord gave way here, the current would immediately push the bow outward, causing the vessel to be tossed sideways onto the rocks, where it would inevitably capsize or possibly be smashed to pieces. Our ropes are quite thin; all but one are made of elk skin and are worn down. Frequently wet and exposed to the heat, they have become weak and rotten; they have snapped several times throughout the day, but fortunately at spots where the vessel had enough room to steer clear of the rocks, thus avoiding damage. Despite every precaution we take, it takes considerable effort and immense risk to navigate around these points. Today, we found a new Indian lodge pole brought down by the stream; one end was worn as if dragged by dogs or horses. We also found a football and several other items that have recently been washed down by the current; these are strong evidence that Indians are on the river above us, likely not too far away. The football resembles those I have seen among the Minetaries, so I think it’s most probable that they are a band of the Minetaries from Fort de Prairie. The river country continued much as it did yesterday, until late in the evening when we reached the entrance of a large creek on the starboard side, which is 35 yards wide and has running water. Here, the hills recede from the river on both sides, with extensive bottoms, especially on the starboard side, where the hills are relatively low and open into three large valleys that extend a considerable distance northward. Also, the river widens to more than three times its previous width and is filled with several small, attractive islands covered with cottonwood trees, and there is some timber in the bottoms; the land is fertile once again. These sights were quite refreshing after the dreary country we had been passing through. Captain C. walked ashore early in the day and killed a large horned animal; he saw a great many, just as we did, in the broken country. At 10 A.M., a few drops of rain fell again, accompanied by distant thunder, the first we have heard since leaving the Mandans. This evening, we camped on the starboard side, opposite the entrance of a small creek. I believe the bighorn have their young very early in the season, around early March, because they seem to be about half grown now. One of the party spotted a very large bear today, but since it was some distance from the river and there was no cover, he deemed it unwise to shoot at it.
[Clark, May 28, 1805]
May 28th Tuesday 1805 a Cloudy morning Some fiew drops of rain and verry Smokey wind from the S. W. we Set out at an early hour, the Shoaley places are verry numerous and Some bad to get around we have to make use of the Cord & Poles, and our tow. ropes are all except one of Elkskin, & Stretch and Sometimes brake which indanger the Perogues or Canoe, as it imedeately turns and if any rock Should chance to be below, the rapidity of the current would turn her over, She Should chance to Strike the rock we observe great Caution at those places.
May 28th, Tuesday, 1805 - It was a cloudy morning with a few drops of rain and a very smoky wind coming from the southwest. We set out early; there are many shallow spots, and some are difficult to navigate around. We have to use the cord and poles, and our tow ropes, all but one of which are made of elk skin. They stretch and sometimes break, which puts the canoes at risk because they can quickly tip over. If we happen to hit a rock beneath the surface, the strong current could flip the canoe if we’re not careful. We exercise great caution in those areas.
I walked on Shore found the Countrey ruged and as described yesterday, I Saw great numbers of the Big horned animals, one of which I killed their fauns are nearly half grown—one of the Party Saw a verry large bear, picked up on the Shore a pole which had been made use of by the Nativs for lodge poles, & haul'd by dogs it is new and is a Certain Sign of the Indians being on the river above a foot ball and Several other articles are also found to Substantiate this oppinion-. at 1 oClock we had a few drops of rain and Some thunder whic is the first thunder we have had Sinc we Set out from Fort Mandan; at 10 miles the the hills begin to widen & the river Spreds & is crouded with Islands the bottoms Contain Some Scattering Cotton wood the Islands also Contain timber—passed a Creek of running water on the Stard Side about 35 yards wide and camped imedeately opposit to a Small Creek on the Lard. Side we call Bull Creek from the Circumstance of a Buffalow Bull swiming from the opposit Side and comeing out of the river imedeately across one of the Perogues without Sinking or injureing any thing in the Perogue, and passing with great violence thro our Camp in the night makeing 3 angles without hurting a man, altho they lay in every direction, and it was very dark The Creek below 35 yards wide I call Thompsons Creek after a valuable member of our party—this Creek contains a Greater preportion of running water than Common.
I walked along the shore and found the land rugged, just as described yesterday. I saw a lot of the big-horned animals, and I managed to kill one; their fawns are nearly half-grown. One of the group spotted a very large bear. I picked up a pole on the shore that the natives had used for lodge poles, which had been pulled by dogs. It’s new and a clear sign that the Indians have been upstream. We also found a football and several other items that support this idea. At 1 o'clock, we had a few drops of rain and some thunder, which is the first thunder we've heard since we set out from Fort Mandan. After about 10 miles, the hills began to widen, and the river spread out, crowded with islands. The lowlands had some scattered cottonwood trees, and the islands also had timber. We passed a creek with running water on the starboard side, about 35 yards wide, and set up camp directly across from a small creek on the larboard side, which we named Bull Creek. This name comes from a buffalo bull that swam across from the opposite side, coming out of the river directly in front of one of the canoes without sinking or damaging anything, and passing through our camp at night, making three angles without hurting anyone, even though they were lying everywhere in the dark. The creek below is 35 yards wide, and I call it Thompson's Creek after a valuable member of our group; this creek has a greater proportion of running water than usual.
[Lewis, May 29, 1805]
Wednesday May 29th 1905. Last night we were all allarmed by a large buffaloe Bull, which swam over from the opposite shore and coming along side of the white perogue, climbed over it to land, he then alarmed ran up the bank in full speed directly towards the fires, and was within 18 inches of the heads of some of the men who lay sleeping before the centinel could allarm him or make him change his course, still more alarmed, he now took his direction immediately towards our lodge, passing between 4 fires and within a few inches of the heads of one range of the men as they yet lay sleeping, when he came near the tent, my dog saved us by causing him to change his course a second time, which he did by turning a little to the right, and was quickly out of sight, leaving us by this time all in an uproar with our guns in or hands, enquiring of each other the case of the alarm, which after a few moments was explained by the centinel; we were happy to find no one hirt. The next morning we found that the buffaloe in passing the perogue had trodden on a rifle, which belonged to Capt. Clark's black man, who had negligently left her in the perogue, the rifle was much bent, he had also broken the spindle, pivit, and shattered the stock of one of the bluntderbushes on board, with this damage I felt well content, happey indeed, that we had sustaned no further injury. it appears that the white perogue, which contains our most valuable stores, is attended by some evil gennii. This morning we set out at an early hour and proceded as usual by the Chord. at the distance of 21/2 miles passed a handsome river which discharged itself on the Lard. side, I walked on shore and acended this river about a mile and a half in order to examine it. I found this river about 100 yds. wide from bank to bank, the water occupying about 75 yard. the bed was formed of gravel and mud with some sand; it appeared to contain much more water as the Muscle-Shell river, was more rappid but equally navigable; there were no large stone or rocks in it's bed to obstruct the navigation; the banks were low yet appeared seldom to overflow; the water of this River is Clear than any we have met with great abundance of the Argalia or Bighorned animals in the high country through which this river passes Cap. C who assended this R. much higher than I did has thought proper to call it Judieths River. The bottoms of this stream as far as I could see were wider and contained more timber than the Missouri; here I saw some box alder intermixed with the Cottonwood willow rose bushes and honeysuckle with some red willow constitute the undergrowth. on the Missouri just above the entrance of the Big Horn River I counted the remains of the fires of 126 Indian lodges which appeared to be of very recent date perhaps 12 or 15 days. Capt. Clark also saw a large encampent just above the entrance of this river on the Stard. side of reather older date, probably they were the same Indians. The Indian woman with us exmined the mockersons which we found at these encampments and informed us that they were not of her nation the Snake Indians, but she beleived they were some of the Indians who inhabit the country on this side of Rocky Mountains and North of the Missoury and I think it most probable that they were the Minetaries of Fort de Prarie. At the distance of six 1/2 ms. from our encampment of last night we passed a very bad rappid to which we gave the name of the Ash rappid from a few trees of that wood growing near them; this is the first ash I have seen for a great distance. at this place the hills again approach the river closely on both sides, and the same seen which we had on the 27th and 28th in the morning again presents itself, and the rocky points and riffles reather more numerous and worse; there was but little timber; salts coal &c still appear. today we passed on the Stard. side the remains of a vast many mangled carcases of Buffalow which had been driven over a precipice of 120 feet by the Indians and perished; the water appeared to have washed away a part of this immence pile of slaughter and still their remained the fragments of at least a hundred carcases they created a most horrid stench. in this manner the Indians of the Missouri distroy vast herds of buffaloe at a stroke; for this purpose one of the most active and fleet young men is scelected and disguised in a robe of buffaloe skin, having also the skin of the buffaloe's head with the years and horns fastened on his head in form of a cap, thus caparisoned he places himself at a convenient distance between a herd of buffaloe and a precipice proper for the purpose, which happens in many places on this river for miles together; the other indians now surround the herd on the back and flanks and at a signal agreed on all shew themselves at the same time moving forward towards the buffaloe; the disguised indian or decoy has taken care to place himself sufficiently nigh the buffaloe to be noticed by them when they take to flight and runing before them they follow him in full speede to the precepice, the cattle behind driving those in front over and seeing them go do not look or hesitate about following untill the whole are precipitated down the precepice forming one common mass of dead an mangled carcases; the decoy in the mean time has taken care to secure himself in some cranney or crivice of the clift which he had previously prepared for that purpose. the part of the decoy I am informed is extreamly dangerous, if they are not very fleet runers the buffaloe tread them under foot and crush them to death, and sometimes drive them over the precepice also, where they perish in common with the buffaloe.—we saw a great many wolves in the neighbourhood of these mangled carcases they were fat and extreemly gentle, Capt. C. who was on shore killed one of them with his espontoon. just above this place we came too for dinner opposite the entrance of a bold runing river 40 yds. wide which falls in on Lard. side. this stream we called slaughter river. it's bottoms are but narrow and contain scarcely any timber. our situation was a narrow bottom on the Stard. possessing some cottonwood. soon after we landed it began to blow & rain, and as there was no appearance of even wood enough to make our fires for some distance above we determined to remain here untill the next morning, and accordingly fixed our camp and gave each man a small dram. notwithstanding the allowance of sperits we issued did not exceed 1/2 pn. man several of them were considerably effected by it; such is the effects of abstaining for some time from the uce of sperituous liquors; they were all very merry.—The hunters killed an Elk this evening, and Capt. C. killed two beaver.
Wednesday, May 29th, 1905. Last night, we were all startled by a large buffalo bull that swam over from the opposite shore. It came alongside the white canoe, climbed over it to land, and then bolted up the bank at full speed directly towards the fires. It got within 18 inches of the heads of some men who were sleeping before the sentinel could alert them or make the bull change its course. Even more alarmed, the bull then headed straight for our lodge, passing between four fires and within a few inches of one group of men still lying asleep. When it got close to the tent, my dog saved us by making it change direction for a second time, turning slightly to the right and quickly disappearing from sight. By that point, we were all in an uproar with our guns in hand, asking each other what had caused the alarm, which was explained by the sentinel a few moments later. We were relieved to find that no one was hurt. The next morning, we discovered that the buffalo had stepped on a rifle belonging to Capt. Clark's Black servant, who had carelessly left it in the canoe. The rifle was badly bent, and the buffalo had also broken the spindle, pivot, and shattered the stock of one of the blunderbusses on board. Despite this damage, I felt well satisfied and genuinely happy that we had sustained no further injuries. It seems that the white canoe, which carries our most valuable supplies, is haunted by some evil spirits. This morning, we set out early and proceeded as usual down the river. After 2.5 miles, we passed a beautiful river that flowed into the left side. I went ashore and explored this river for about a mile and a half. I found it to be about 100 yards wide from bank to bank, with the water taking up about 75 yards. Its bed was made up of gravel and mud with some sand; it appeared to hold much more water than the Muscle-Shell River, was faster, but just as navigable. There were no large rocks or stones in its bed to block navigation; the banks were low yet seemed to rarely overflow. The water in this river was clearer than any we had encountered, and there was a great abundance of Bighorn sheep in the high country through which this river flowed. Capt. Clark, who explored this river farther than I did, decided to name it Judith River. The bottoms of this stream, as far as I could see, were wider and had more trees than the Missouri; here I noticed box alders mixed with cottonwoods, willow, rose bushes, and honeysuckle, along with some red willows making up the undergrowth. On the Missouri, just above the entrance of the Big Horn River, I counted the remains of 126 Indian lodges, which looked quite recent, perhaps 12 or 15 days old. Capt. Clark also spotted a large camp just above the entrance of this river on the right side, which appeared to be older—probably the same Indians. The Indian woman with us examined the moccasins we found at these camps and told us they weren’t from her nation, the Snake Indians, but she believed they were from some Indians living on this side of the Rocky Mountains and north of the Missouri. I think it’s most probable they were the Minetarres from Fort de Prairie. About 6.5 miles from our last night’s camp, we encountered a very bad rapid, which we named Ash Rapid because a few ash trees were growing nearby; this was the first ash I had seen in a long time. At this point, the hills again pressed closely against the river on both sides, and the same scene we had viewed on the 27th and 28th morning appeared again, with rocky points and riffles being more numerous and worse; there was little timber, and salts and coal still appeared. Today, we passed the remains of many mangled buffalo carcasses on the right side that had been driven over a 120-foot precipice by the Indians, resulting in their deaths; the water seemed to have washed away part of this immense pile of slaughter, and there were still fragments of at least a hundred carcasses, creating a horrible stench. This is how the Missouri Indians destroy vast herds of buffalo in one strike; for this purpose, one of the most active and fleet young men disguises himself in a buffalo skin robe, also wearing the buffalo head's skin with its ears and horns attached to his head as a cap. Thus equipped, he positions himself at a convenient spot between a herd of buffalo and a suitable precipice, which often occurs in many places along this river for miles. Other Indians then surround the herd from behind and flanks, and at a pre-agreed signal, they all reveal themselves and move toward the buffalo. The disguised Indian or decoy is careful to stand close enough to be noticed by the buffalo when they panic and start running. He then runs ahead of them, leading them right to the precipice, causing the cattle behind to push those in front over the edge; seeing them fall, they don’t hesitate to follow until the entire herd is plunged over the cliff in a mass of dead and mangled carcasses. Meanwhile, the decoy has taken care to position himself safely in some cranny or crevice of the cliff he previously prepared for this purpose. I've been told that the role of the decoy is extremely dangerous; if they are not very fast runners, the buffalo trample them underfoot and crush them to death, and sometimes they too are driven over the precipice, perishing along with the buffalo. We saw many wolves around these mangled carcasses; they were fat and extremely docile. Capt. Clark, who was onshore, killed one of them with his espontoon. Just above this location, we stopped for dinner across from a fast-running river that was 40 yards wide flowing into the left side. We called this stream Slaughter River. Its bottoms were narrow and held almost no timber. Our camp was in a narrow area on the right side with some cottonwood. Soon after we landed, it started to blow and rain, and since there was clearly not enough wood upstream to make fires, we decided to stay here until the next morning. We set up our camp and gave each man a small drink. Despite the spirits we issued not exceeding half a pint per person, several of them were noticeably affected by it; such are the effects of abstaining from alcohol for some time; they were all very cheerful. The hunters killed an elk this evening, and Capt. Clark killed two beavers.
[Clark, May 29, 1805]
May 29th Wednesday 1805 In the last night we were alarmed by a Buffalow which Swam from the opposit Shore landed opposit the Perogue in which Capt Lewis & my Self were in he Crossed the perogue, and went with great force up to the fire where Several men were Sleeping and was 18 inches of their heads, when one man Sitting up allarmed him and he turned his course along the range of men as they lay, passing between 4 fires and within a fiew Inches of Some of the mens heads as they lay imediately in a direction to our lodge about which Several men were lying. our Dog flew out & he changed his course & passed without doeing more damage than bend a rifle & brakeing hir Stock and injureying one of the blunder busts in the perogue as he passed through—We Set out this morning at the usial hour & proceeded on at 21/2 miles passed the mouth of a river ____ yards wide, discharging a great quantity of water, and Containing more wood in its bottoms than the Missouri—this river Capt Lewis walked up for a Short distance & he Saw an old encampment of Indians (I also saw large encampment on the Stard Side at the mouth of a Small Creek of about 100 Lodges which appeared to be 5 or 6 weeks past, the Indian woman examined the mockersons &c. and told us they were the Indians which resided below the rocky mountains & to the North of this river,that her nation make their mockersons differently) at 61/2 miles passed a considerable rapid at which place the hills approach near the river on both Sides, leaveing a narrow bottom on the Stard. Side, (ash rapid) and continue Close all day but little timber, I walked on the bank in the evening and saw the remains of a number of buffalow, which had been drove down a Clift of rocks I think from appearances that upwards of 100 of those animals must have perished here, Great numbers of wolves were about this place & verry jentle I killed one of them with my Spear. The hills above ash rapid Contains more rock and Coal, and the more rapid points. we Came too for Dinner opposit the enterence of a Small river which falls in on the Lard Side and is about ____ yards wide, has a bold running Stream, Soon after we Came too it began to rain & blow hard, and as we were in a good harbor & Small point of woods on the Stard Side, and no timber for some distance above, induced us to conclude to Stay all night. we gave the men a dram, altho verry Small it was Sufficent to effect Several men. one of our hunters killed an elk this evening—I killed 2 beaver on the Side of the bank a table Spoon full of water exposed to the air in a Saucer would avaperate in 36 hours when the mercury did not Stand higher than the temperate point in the heat of the day.
May 29th, Wednesday, 1805 Last night, we were startled by a buffalo that swam across from the opposite shore and landed near our canoe, where Captain Lewis and I were. It crossed the canoe and charged right up to the fire where several men were sleeping, being just 18 inches from their heads. One man sitting up startled it, and it changed its path, moving along the line of men lying down, passing between four fires and just inches from some men's heads in the direction of our lodge, where several men were lying. Our dog ran out, which made it change direction, and it moved on without causing more damage than bending a rifle, breaking its stock, and damaging one of the blunderbusses in the canoe as it passed through. We set out this morning at our usual hour and traveled 2.5 miles past the mouth of a river that was ____ yards wide, discharging a large amount of water and containing more wood in its bottom than the Missouri. Captain Lewis walked up this river for a short distance and saw an old encampment of Indians. I also noticed a large camp on the starboard side at the mouth of a small creek, consisting of about 100 lodges, which seemed to have been there 5 or 6 weeks ago. An Indian woman examined the moccasins and told us they belonged to the Indians who lived below the Rocky Mountains and to the north of this river, explaining that her people make their moccasins differently. At 6.5 miles, we passed a significant rapid where the hills approach the river closely on both sides, leaving a narrow bottom on the starboard side (ash rapid). The hills continued close all day with little timber. I walked along the bank in the evening and saw the remains of many buffalo that had fallen from a cliff. From appearances, I think more than 100 of these animals must have perished here. There were many wolves around, very gentle, and I killed one with my spear. The hills above ash rapid contain more rock and coal, as well as the rapider points. We stopped for dinner opposite the entrance of a small river that flows in from the left side and is about ____ yards wide, with a strong running stream. Soon after we arrived, it started to rain and blow hard, and since we were in a good harbor with a small patch of woods on the starboard side and no timber for some distance upstream, we decided to stay the night. We gave the men a small drink, and although it was very little, it had a noticeable effect on several of them. One of our hunters killed an elk this evening, and I caught two beavers along the bank. A tablespoon of water left exposed in a saucer would evaporate in 36 hours when the mercury didn't rise above the temperature point during the heat of the day.
[Lewis, May 30, 1805]
Thursday May 30th 1805. The rain which commenced last evening continued with little intermission untill 11this morning when we set out; the high wind which accompanied the rain rendered it impracticable to procede earlyer. more rain has now fallen than we have experienced since the 15th of September last. many circumstances indicate our near approach to a country whos climate differs considerably from that in which we have been for many months. the air of the open country is asstonishingly dry as well as pure. I found by several experiments that a table spoon full of water exposed to the air in a saucer would avaporate in 36 hours when the murcury did not stand higher than the temperate point at the greatest heat of the day; my inkstand so frequently becoming dry put me on this experiment. I also observed the well seasoned case of my sextant shrunk considerably and the joints opened. The water of the river still continues to become clearer and notwithstanding the rain which has fallen it is still much clearer than it was a few days past. this day we proceded with more labour and difficulty than we have yet experienced; in addition to the imbarrasments of the rappid courant, riffles, & rockey point which were as bad if not worse than yesterday, the banks and sides of the bluff were more steep than usual and were now rendered so slippery by the late rain that the men could scarcely walk. the chord is our only dependance for the courant is too rappid to be resisted with the oar and the river too deep in most places for the pole. the earth and stone also falling from these immence high bluffs render it dangerous to pass under them. the wind was also hard and against us. our chords broke several times today but happily without injury to the vessels. we had slight showers of rain through the course of the day, the air was could and rendered more disagreeable by the rain. one of the party ascended the river hills and reported on his return that there was snow intermixed with the rain which fell on the hights; he also informed us that the country was level a little back from the river on both sides. there is now no timber on the hills, an only a few scattering cottonwood, ash, box Alder and willows to be seen along the river. in the course of the day we passed several old encampment of Indians, from the apparent dates of which we conceived that they were the several encampments of a band of about 100 lodges who were progressing slowly up the river; the most recent appeared to have been evacuated about 5 weeks since. these we supposed to be the Minetares or black foot Indians who inhabit the country watered by the Suskashawan and who resort to the establishment of Fort de Prarie, no part of the Missouri from the Minetaries to this place furnishes a perminent residence for any nation yet there is no part of it but what exhibits appearances of being occasionally visited by some nation on hunting excurtions. The Minnetares of the Missoury we know extend their excurtions on the S. side as high as the yellowstone river; the Assinniboins still higher on the N. side most probably as high as about Porcupine river and from thence upwards most probably as far as the mountains by the Minetares of Fort de Prarie and the Black Foot Indians who inhabit the S. fork of the Suskashawan. I say the Missouri to the Rocky mountains for I am convinced that it penetrates those mountains for a considerable distance.—Two buffaloe killed this evening a little above our encampment.
Thursday, May 30, 1805. The rain that started last night continued with little break until 11 this morning when we set out; the strong wind that accompanied the rain made it impossible to leave any earlier. More rain has fallen now than we’ve seen since September 15 of last year. Many signs indicate that we are approaching a region with a climate that is quite different from the one we’ve been in for many months. The air in the open country is surprisingly dry and clean. I discovered through several experiments that a tablespoon of water left exposed in a saucer would evaporate in 36 hours, even when the mercury didn’t rise above the temperate point at the hottest part of the day; my inkstand frequently drying out prompted this experiment. I also noticed that the well-seasoned case of my sextant had shrunk significantly and the joints had opened. The river water continues to get clearer, and despite the rain, it’s still much clearer than it was a few days ago. Today, we faced more labor and difficulty than we have experienced so far; in addition to the challenges of the swift current, riffles, and rocky points that were as bad, if not worse, than yesterday, the banks and sides of the bluff were steeper than usual and were rendered very slippery by the recent rain, making it hard for the men to walk. The cord is our only reliance because the current is too fast to overcome with the oar and the river is too deep in most areas for a pole. The earth and stones also falling from these immense high bluffs make it dangerous to pass beneath them. The wind was strong and against us. Our cords broke several times today, but fortunately, there was no damage to the vessels. We had light rain showers throughout the day; the air was cold and made more uncomfortable by the rain. One of the members of the party climbed the river hills and reported back that there was snow mixed with the rain falling on the heights; he also informed us that the land was level a little back from the river on both sides. There are now no trees on the hills, just a few scattered cottonwoods, ashes, box alders, and willows along the river. Throughout the day, we passed several old Indian camps, and based on their apparent dates, we surmised they were the several camps of a group of about 100 lodges slowly making their way up the river; the most recent seemed to have been abandoned about 5 weeks ago. We believed these to be the Minnetarees or Blackfoot Indians who inhabit the area along the Saskatchewan River and who visit the Fort de Prairie establishment. There is no part of the Missouri from the Minnetarees to here that provides a permanent residence for any nation, yet every part shows signs of being occasionally visited by some group on hunting trips. We know the Minnetarees of the Missouri extend their hunting trips south of the river as far as the Yellowstone River; the Assiniboins likely go even further north as high as Porcupine River and up from there likely reach the mountains frequented by the Minnetarees from Fort de Prairie and the Blackfoot Indians who live along the south fork of the Saskatchewan. I refer to the Missouri leading to the Rocky Mountains because I am convinced it penetrates those mountains for quite a distance. —Two buffalo were killed this evening just above our camp.
[Clark, May 30, 1805]
May 30th Thursday 1805 The rain conmmenced yesterday evining, and continued moderately through the course of the night, more rain has now fallin than we have experienced Since the 15th of September last, the rain continued this morning, and the wind too high for us to proceed, untill about 11 oClock at which time we Set out, and proceeded on with great labour, we were obliged to make use of the Tow rope & the banks were So muddey & Slipery that the men could Scercely walk not with Standing we proceeded on as well as we could wind hard from the N W. in attempting to assend a rapid our toe Cord broke & we turned without injurey, those rapids or Shoaley points are noumerous and dificuelt, one being at the mouth of every drean Some little rain at times all day one man assended the high Countrey and it was raining & Snowing on those hills, the day has proved to be raw and Cold. Back from the river is tollerably leavel, no timber of any kind on the hills, and only a fiew Scattering cotton willow & ash near the river, much hard rock; & rich earth, the Small portion of rain which has fallen causes the rich earth as deep as is wet to Slip into the river or bottoms &c.
May 30th, Thursday, 1805 The rain started yesterday evening and continued at a moderate pace throughout the night. We've had more rain now than we’ve experienced since September 15th last year. The rain persisted this morning, and the wind was too strong for us to move until about 11 o’clock. At that time, we set out and continued on with great effort. We had to use the tow rope, and the banks were so muddy and slippery that the men could hardly walk. Despite this, we pressed on as best we could with a strong wind from the northwest. While trying to ascend a rapid, our tow cord broke, and we turned back without injury. These rapids or shallow points are numerous and difficult, one located at the mouth of every drain. We had some light rain throughout the day. One man climbed the nearby high country, where it was raining and snowing on the hills. The day turned out to be chilly and raw. Back from the river, the land is fairly level, with no timber of any kind on the hills, and only a few scattered cottonwood and ash trees near the river. There is a lot of hard rock and rich soil; the small amount of rain that has fallen causes the rich earth, as deep as it is wet, to slide into the river or low areas.
we discover in Several places old encampments of large bands of Indians, a fiew weeks past and appear to be makeing up the river—Those Indians we believe to be the Blackfoot Inds. or Menetares who inhabit the heads of the Saskashowin & north of this place and trade a little in the Fort de Prarie establishments. we Camped in a grove of Cotton trees on the Stard Side, river rise 11/2 In.
we find several old encampments of large groups of Native Americans, and a few weeks ago, they seemed to be heading up the river. We believe these Native Americans are the Blackfoot or Menetare tribes, who live near the headwaters of the Saskatchewan River and trade a bit at the Fort de Prairie establishments. We camped in a grove of cottonwood trees on the starboard side, and the river rose 1.5 inches.
[Lewis, May 31, 1805]
Friday May 31st 1805. This morning we proceeded at an early hour with the two perogues leaving the canoes and crews to bring on the meat of the two buffaloe that were killed last evening and which had not been brought in as it was late and a little off the river. soon after we got under way it began to rain and continued untill meridian when it ceased but still remained cloudy through the ballance of the day. The obstructions of rocky points and riffles still continue as yesterday; at those places the men are compelled to be in the water even to their armpits, and the water is yet very could, and so frequent are those point that they are one fourth of their time in the water, added to this the banks and bluffs along which they are obliged to pass are so slippery and the mud so tenacious that they are unable to wear their mockersons, and in that situation draging the heavy burthen of a canoe and walking ocasionally for several hundred yards over the sharp fragments of rocks which tumble from the clifts and garnish the borders of the river; in short their labour is incredibly painfull and great, yet those faithfull fellows bear it without a murmur. The toe rope of the white perogue, the only one indeed of hemp, and that on which we most depended, gave way today at a bad point, the perogue swung and but slightly touched a rock, yet was very near overseting; I fear her evil gennii will play so many pranks with her that she will go to the bottomm some of those days.—Capt. C. walked on shore this morning but found it so excessively bad that he shortly returned. at 12 OCk. we came too for refreshment and gave the men a dram which they received with much cheerfullness, and well deserved.
Friday, May 31st, 1805. This morning, we set off early with the two pirogues, leaving the canoes and crews behind to bring in the meat from the two buffalo that were killed last night. It was too late to retrieve them yesterday since they were a bit off the river. Shortly after we got going, it started to rain and continued until noon, when it stopped, but it remained cloudy for the rest of the day. The rocky points and riffles persisted as they did yesterday; at these spots, the men had to be in the water up to their armpits, and the water was still really cold. These points were so frequent that they spent about a quarter of their time in the water. To make things worse, the banks and bluffs they had to pass were so slippery and the mud so sticky that they couldn’t wear their moccasins. Under these conditions, they had to drag the heavy burden of a canoe and walk occasionally for several hundred yards over sharp fragments of rock that tumbled from the cliffs and lined the riverbanks. In short, their work was incredibly painful and challenging, yet these loyal guys endured it without a complaint. The toe rope of the white pirogue, the only one made of hemp and the one we relied on the most, broke today at a bad spot. The pirogue swung and barely touched a rock, yet almost capsized. I fear that its bad luck will lead to it sinking one of these days. Captain C. walked on shore this morning but found the conditions so terrible that he quickly came back. At 12 o'clock, we stopped for a break and gave the men a drink, which they accepted with great cheerfulness—they really earned it.
The hills and river Clifts which we passed today exhibit a most romantic appearance. The bluffs of the river rise to the hight of from 2 to 300 feet and in most places nearly perpendicular; they are formed of remarkable white sandstone which is sufficiently soft to give way readily to the impression of water; two or thre thin horizontal stratas of white free-stone, on which the rains or water make no impression, lie imbeded in these clifts of soft stone near the upper part of them; the earth on the top of these Clifts is a dark rich loam, which forming a graduly ascending plain extends back from 1/2 a mile to a mile where the hills commence and rise abruptly to a hight of about 300 feet more. The water in the course of time in decending from those hills and plains on either side of the river has trickled down the soft sand clifts and woarn it into a thousand grotesque figures, which with the help of a little immagination and an oblique view at a distance, are made to represent eligant ranges of lofty freestone buildings, having their parapets well stocked with statuary; collumns of various sculpture both grooved and plain, are also seen supporting long galleries in front of those buildings; in other places on a much nearer approach and with the help of less immagination we see the remains or ruins of eligant buildings; some collumns standing and almost entire with their pedestals and capitals; others retaining their pedestals but deprived by time or accident of their capitals, some lying prostrate an broken othes in the form of vast pyramids of connic structure bearing a sereis of other pyramids on their tops becoming less as they ascend and finally terminating in a sharp point. nitches and alcoves of various forms and sizes are seen at different hights as we pass. a number of the small martin which build their nests with clay in a globular form attatched to the wall within those nitches, and which were seen hovering about the tops of the collumns did not the less remind us of some of those large stone buildings in the U States. the thin stratas of hard freestone intermixed with the soft sandstone seems to have aided the water in forming this curious scenery. As we passed on it seemed as if those seens of visionary inchantment would never have and end; for here it is too that nature presents to the view of the traveler vast ranges of walls of tolerable workmanship, so perfect indeed are those walls that I should have thought that nature had attempted here to rival the human art of masonry had I not recollected that she had first began her work. These walls rise to the hight in many places of 100 feet, are perpendicular, with two regular faces and are from one to 12 feet thick, each wall retains the same thickness at top which it possesses at bottom. The stone of which these walls are formed is black, dence and dureable, and appears to be composed of a large portion of earth intermixed or cemented with a small quantity of sand and a considerable portion of talk or quarts. these stones are almost invariably regular parallelepipeds, of unequal sizes in the walls, but equal in their horizontal ranges, at least as to debth. these are laid regularly in ranges on each other like bricks, each breaking or covering the interstice of the two on which it rests. thus the purpendicular interstices are broken, and the horizontal ones extend entire throughout the whole extent of the walls. These stones seem to bear some proportion to the thickness of the walls in which they are employed, being larger in the thicker walls; the greatest length of the parallelepiped appears to form the thickness of the thiner walls, while two or more are employed to form that of the thicker walls. These walls pass the river in several places, rising from the water's edge much above the sandstone bluffs, which they seem to penetrate; thence continuing their course on a streight line on either side of the river through the gradually ascending plains, over which they tower to the hight of from ten to seventy feet until) they reach the hills, which they finally enter and conceal themselves. these walls sometimes run parallel to each other, with several ranges near each other, and at other times interscecting each other at right angles, having the appearance of the walls of ancient houses or gardens. I walked on shore this evening and examined these walls minutely and preserved a specimine of the stone. I found the face of many of the river hills formed of Clifts of very excellent free stone of a light yellowish brown colour; on these clifts I met with a species of pine which I had never seen, it differs from the pitchpine in the particular of it's leaf and cone, the first being vastly shorter, and the latter considerably longer and more pointed. I saw near those bluffs the most beautiful) fox that I ever beheld, the colours appeared to me to be a fine orrange yellow, white and black, I endevoured to kill this anamal but it discovered me at a considerable distance, and finding that I could get no nearer, I fired on him as he ran, and missed him; he concealed himself under the rocks of the clift; it appeared to me to be about the size of the common red fox of the Atlantic states, or reather smaller than the large fox common to this country; convinced I am that it is a distinct species. The appearance of coal continues but in small quantities, but little appearance of birnt hills or pumice stones the mineral salts have in some measure abated and no quarts. we saw a great number of the Bighorn some mule deer and a few buffaloe and Elk, no antelopes or common deer. Drewyer who was with me and myself killed two bighorned anamals; the sides of the Clifts where these anamals resort much to lodg, have the peculiar smell of the sheepfolds. the party killed in addition to our hunt 2 buffaloe and an Elk. the river today has been from 150 to 250 yds. wide but little timber today on the river.
The hills and cliffs along the river we passed today look incredibly beautiful. The river bluffs rise about 200 to 300 feet high and are almost vertical in most places. They’re made of striking white sandstone that’s soft enough for water to shape it easily. Near the top of these soft stone cliffs, there are two or three thin layers of hard white stone that remain unaffected by rain or water. The soil on top of these cliffs is a dark, rich loam that extends back from half a mile to a mile, gradually rising to where the hills start, which then rise steeply another 300 feet. Over time, water flowing down from these hills and plains has worn the soft sandstone cliffs into countless strange shapes, which, with a bit of imagination and a distant view, resemble elegant rows of tall stone buildings, their parapets filled with statues. Columns, both ornate and plain, can also be seen supporting long galleries in front of these buildings. When we got closer, we saw the remains of what were once graceful structures; some columns still stand tall, almost complete with their bases and capitals, while others lost their capitals due to time or accidents. Some lie broken, and others form vast conical pyramids resting on top of smaller pyramids that taper off to a sharp point. Various niches and alcoves at different heights are visible as we pass through. A number of small martins, which build their clay nests in round shapes attached to the walls within those niches, were flying around the tops of the columns, reminding us of some of the large stone buildings in the United States. The thin layers of hard stone mixed with the soft sandstone seem to help create this fascinating scenery. As we continued on, it felt like this enchanting view would never end; here, nature offers the traveler vast ranges of walls that show considerable workmanship. These walls are so well-made that I would have thought nature was trying to rival human masonry if I hadn’t remembered that she started this work first. In many places, these walls reach heights of 100 feet, are vertical, have two flat sides, and are 1 to 12 feet thick, maintaining the same thickness from top to bottom. The stone used to make these walls is black, dense, durable, and seems to consist of a large amount of earth mixed or cemented with some sand and a good amount of talc or quartz. These stones are typically regular rectangular blocks of various sizes within the walls but uniform in their horizontal arrangements, at least in terms of depth. They are neatly stacked like bricks, with each one overlapping the gaps in the two below it. This arrangement breaks the vertical gaps while maintaining long horizontal sections throughout the walls. The stones seem to vary in size according to the thickness of the walls they’re part of, being larger in thicker walls. The longest side of the rectangular stones typically makes up the thickness of the thinner walls, while two or more are used for the thicker ones. These walls sometimes cross the river in various locations, rising from the water’s edge much higher than the sandstone bluffs, which they seem to penetrate; then they continue straight along either side of the river, climbing up to heights of 10 to 70 feet until they reach the hills, where they eventually enter and disappear. The walls sometimes run parallel to each other, with several rows close together, and at other times they intersect at right angles, looking like the walls of old houses or gardens. I walked along the shore this evening and closely examined these walls, keeping a sample of the stone. I found the faces of many of the river hills made of excellent light yellowish-brown sandstone. On these cliffs, I encountered a type of pine I had never seen before; it differs from pitch pine in its leaves and cones, with the leaves being much shorter and the cones longer and more pointed. Near the bluffs, I spotted the most beautiful fox I’ve ever seen; its colors appeared to be a striking orange-yellow, white, and black. I tried to catch it, but it saw me from some distance away. Finding I couldn’t get any closer, I shot at it as it ran but missed. It hid under the rocks of the cliff. It seemed to be about the size of a common red fox from the Atlantic states, or slightly smaller than the larger foxes found here; I’m convinced it’s a different species. We continue to see coal, but in small amounts, and there’s little sign of burned hills or pumice stones. The mineral salts have somewhat diminished, and there’s no quartz. We saw many Bighorn sheep, some mule deer, and a few buffalo and elk, but no antelopes or common deer. Drewyer, who was with me, and I killed two bighorn animals. The cliff sides where these animals often reside have a distinctive smell similar to sheepfolds. In addition to our hunt, the rest of the group managed to kill two buffalo and an elk. The river today ranged from 150 to 250 yards wide, but there was little timber along its banks.
[Clark, May 31, 1805]
May 31st Friday 1805. A cloudy morning we dispatched all the Canoes to Collect the meat of 2 Buffalow killed last night a head and a little off the river, and proceeded on with the perogues at an early hour. I attempted to walk on Shore Soon found it verry laborious as the mud Stuck to my mockersons & was verry Slippery. I return'd on board. it continued to rain moderately untill about 12 oClock when it ceased, & Continued Cloudy. the Stone on the edge of the river continue to form verry Considerable rapids, which are troublesom & dificuelt to pass, our toe rope which we are obliged to make use of altogether broke & we were in Some danger of turning over in the perogue in which I was, we landed at 12 and refreshed the men with a dram, our men are obliged to under go great labour and fatigue in assending this part of the Missouri, as they are compelled from the rapidity of the Current in many places to walk in the water & on Slippery hill Sides or the Sides of rocks, on Gravel & thro a Stiff mud bear footed, as they Cannot keep on Mockersons from the Stiffness of the mud & decline of the Slipy. hills Sides—the Hills and river Clifts of this day exhibit a most romantick appearance on each Side of the river is a white Soft Sand Stone bluff which rises to about half the hight of the hills, on the top of this Clift is a black earth on points, in maney places this Sand Stone appears like antient ruins some like elegant buildings at a distance, Some like Towers &c. &c. in maney places of this days march we observe on either Side of the river extraodanary walls of a black Semented Stone which appear to be regularly placed one Stone on the other, Some of those walls run to the hite of 100 feet, they are from about 1 foot to 12 feet thick and are perpendicular, those walls Commence at the waters edge & in Some places meet at right angles—those walls appear to Continue their Course into the Sand Clifts, the Stones which form those walls are of different Sizes all Squar edged, Great numbers has fallen off from the walls near the river which cause the walls to be of uneaquil hite, in the evening the Countrey becomes lower and the bottoms wider, no timber on the uplands, except a few Cedar & pine on the Clifts a few Scattering Cotton trees on the points in the river bottoms, The apparance of Coal Continus Capt Lewis walked on Shore & observed a Species of Pine we had never before Seen, with a Shorter leaf than Common & the bur different, he also Collected Some of the Stone off one of the walls which appears to be a Sement of Isin glass black earth we Camped on the Stard Side in a Small timbered bottom above the mouth of a Creek on the Stard Side our hunters killed, 2 animals with big horns, 2 Buffalow & an Elk, we Saw Great numbers of those big horned animals on the Clifts, but fiew Buffalow or Elk, no antelope, a fiew mule deer, Saw a fox to day. The river rises a little it is from 150 to 250 yds. wide
May 31st, Friday, 1805. It was a cloudy morning. We sent out all the canoes to collect the meat from two buffalo killed last night, a bit ahead and off the river, and continued on with the perogues early. I tried walking onshore but quickly found it very tiring as the mud stuck to my shoes and was quite slippery. I returned on board. It continued to rain lightly until about noon when it stopped, but it stayed cloudy. The rocks along the edge of the river caused some significant rapids, which were troublesome and hard to navigate. Our tow rope broke completely, and we were in some danger of capsizing in the perogue I was in. We landed at noon and refreshed the men with a drink. Our crew had to endure a lot of hard work and fatigue while ascending this part of the Missouri, as they often had to walk in the water and across slippery hillsides or rocky areas, barefoot, since they couldn’t keep their shoes on due to the mud's stiffness and the slippery hillsides. The hills and river cliffs today looked quite picturesque; each side of the river had a white, soft sandstone bluff rising to about half the height of the hills. On top of this cliff was a layer of black earth in spots. In many areas, the sandstone resembled ancient ruins, some appearing like elegant buildings from a distance, others like towers, etc. During today's journey, we noticed extraordinary walls made of a black cemented stone, seeming to be stacked regularly with one stone on top of another. Some of these walls reached up to 100 feet in height, were between 1 and 12 feet thick, and stood straight up. These walls started at the water's edge and, in some places, met at right angles. They seemed to continue into the sandstone cliffs. The stones forming these walls varied in size and were all square-edged. Many had fallen from the walls near the river, causing the walls to have uneven heights. In the evening, the land became lower and the bottoms wider, with no trees on the uplands except for a few cedar and pine on the cliffs, and some scattered cottonwoods in the river bottoms. The appearance of coal continued. Capt. Lewis walked onshore and observed a species of pine we had never seen before, with shorter needles than usual and different burrs. He also collected some stones from one of the walls that appeared to be a black earth cement. We camped on the starboard side in a small timbered bottom above the mouth of a creek. On the starboard side, our hunters killed two animals with big horns, two buffalo, and an elk. We saw many of those big-horned animals on the cliffs, but few buffalo or elk, and no antelope, though we saw a few mule deer and a fox today. The river was a little higher, ranging from 150 to 250 yards wide.
[Clark, May 31, 1805]
May 31st Friday 1805 Cloudy morning, we proceeded on at an early hour with the two Perogues leaving the Canoes and crews to bring on the meat of two Buffalow that were killed last evening and which had not been brought in as it was late and a little off the river. Soon after we got under way it began to rain and Continued untill 12 oClock when it Seased but Still remained cloudy through the ballance of the day. the obstructions of rocky points and riffles Still continue as yesterday; at those places the men are compelled to be in the water even to their armpits, and the water is yet very cold, and So frequent are those points that they are one fourth of their time in the water. added to this the bank and bluff along which they are obliged to pass are So Slippery and the mud So tenatious that they are unable to bare their mockersons, and in that Situation dragging the heavy burthen of a Canoe and Walking occasionally for Several hundred yards over the Sharp fragments of rocks which tumble from the Clifts; and in Short their labour is incredibly painfull and great, yet those faithfull fellows bear it without a murmer.
May 31st, Friday, 1805. It was a cloudy morning as we set off early with the two Perogues, leaving the Canoes and crews to bring in the meat from the two Buffalos we killed last night, which wasn’t collected earlier since it was late and a bit off the river. Soon after we started, it began to rain and continued until noon when it stopped, but the day remained cloudy. We still encountered rocky points and riffles like yesterday; at those locations, the men had to be in water up to their armpits, which was still very cold. These points are so frequent that they spent about a quarter of their time in the water. Additionally, the bank and bluff they had to pass were so slippery and the mud so sticky that they couldn't take off their shoes. In that situation, they had to drag the heavy burden of a Canoe, sometimes walking several hundred yards over sharp rock fragments that fell from the cliffs. In short, their work was incredibly painful and difficult, yet these loyal men endured it without a complaint.
The toe rope of the white perogue, the only one indeed of hemp, and that on which we most depended, gave way to day at a bad point, the perogue Swong and but slightly touched a rock, yet was very near oversetting; I fear her evil Ginnie will play So many pranks with her that She will go to the bottom Some of those days.
The toe rope of the white canoe, the only one made of hemp, which we relied on the most, broke today at a bad spot. The canoe swung and barely grazed a rock, but it was very close to tipping over; I worry that her bad luck will cause so many issues that she will sink one of these days.
I attempted to walk on Shore this morning but found it so excessivily bad that I Soon returned on board. at 12 oClock we came too for refreshment and gave the men a dram which they received with much Chearfulness, and well deserved all wet and disagreeable. Capt. Lewis walked on Shore, he informed one that he Saw "the most butifull fox in the world" the Colour appeared to him to be of a fine Orrange yellow, white and black, he fired at this fox running and missed him, he appeared to be about the size of the common red fox of the united States, or rather smaller.
I tried to walk on shore this morning, but the conditions were so bad that I quickly returned to the boat. At 12 o'clock, we stopped for some refreshments and gave the crew a drink, which they happily accepted, well-deserved after being wet and uncomfortable. Captain Lewis went ashore and told us that he saw "the most beautiful fox in the world." He described its color as a nice orange-yellow with white and black. He shot at the fox while it was running but missed. It seemed to be about the same size as a regular red fox in the United States, or maybe a bit smaller.
The hills and river clifts which we pass to day exhibit a most romantic appearance. The Bluffs of the river rise to the hight of from 2 to 300 feet and in most places nearly perpendicular; they are formed of remarkable white Sandstone which is Sufficiently Soft to give way readily to the impression of water; two or three thin horizontal Stratas of white free Stone, on which the rains or water make no impression, lie imbeded in those clifts of Soft Stone near the upper part of them; the earth on the top of these clifts is a dark rich loam, which forming a gradual ascending plain extend back from 1/2 a mile to a mile where the hills commence and rise abruptly to the hight of about 300 feet more. The water in the Course of time acecending from those hills and plains on either Side of the river has trickled down the Soft Sand Clifts and woarn it into a thousand grotesque figures; which with the help of a little imagination and an oblique view at a distance are made to represent elegant ranges of lofty freestone buildings, haveing their parapets well Stocked with Statuary; Colloms of various Sculptures both Grooved and plain, are also Seen Supporting long galleries in part of those buildings; in other places on a much nearer approach and with the with the help of less immagination we See the remains of ruins of eligant buildings; Some Collumns Standing and almost entire with their pedestals and Capitals, others retaining their pedestals but deprived by time or accedint of their capitals, Some lying prostrate and broken, others in the form of vast Pyramids of connic Structure bearing a Serious of other pyramids on their tops becomeing less as they ascend and finally termonateing in a Sharp point. nitches and alcoves of various forms and Sizes are Seen at different hights as we pass. a number of the Small martin which build their nests with Clay of a globular form attached to the wall within those nitches, and which were Seen hovering about the top of the collumns did not the less remind us of Some of those large Stone buildings in the United States. The thin Stratas of hard free Stone intermixed with the Soft Sand Stone Seems to have aided the water in forming this Curious Scenery.
The hills and river cliffs we pass today have a really romantic look. The river bluffs rise to heights between 200 and 300 feet and are almost vertical in most places; they’re made of striking white sandstone that is soft enough to easily show the effects of water. Two or three thin horizontal layers of white freestone, which the rain or water doesn’t affect, are embedded in the soft stone cliffs near the top. The earth on these cliffs is a dark, rich loam, creating a gently rising plain that extends from half a mile to a mile back, where the hills begin and rise sharply another 300 feet. Over time, water flowing from those hills and plains on either side of the river has trickled down the soft sand cliffs, wearing them into a thousand quirky shapes. With a little imagination and a sideways view from a distance, these can look like elegant rows of tall freestone buildings, their rooftops adorned with statues; columns with various sculptures, some grooved and some plain, can also be seen supporting long galleries in parts of these structures. In other places, upon closer inspection and with a bit less imagination, we see the remains of elegant buildings. Some columns stand almost intact with their pedestals and capitals; others still have their pedestals but have lost their capitals over time or by accident. Some are lying broken on the ground, while others take the form of vast conical pyramids, with a series of smaller pyramids on top, getting smaller as they rise and finally coming to a sharp point. Niches and alcoves of various shapes and sizes appear at different heights as we pass. A number of small martins build their globular clay nests in those niches, fluttering around the tops of the columns, reminding us of some of those large stone buildings in the United States. The thin layers of hard freestone mixed with the soft sandstone seem to have helped the water shape this unusual scenery.
as we passed on it Seemed as if those Seens of Visionary enchantment would never have an end; for here it is too that nature presents to the view of the traveler vast ranges of walls of tolerable workmanship, So perfect indeed are those walls that I Should have thought that nature had attempted here to rival the human art of Masonry had I not recollected that She had first began her work. These walls rise to the hight in many places of 100 feet, are perpindicular, with two regular faces, and are from one to 12 feet thick, each wall retains the Same thickness to the top which it possesses at bottom. The Stone of which these walls are formed is black, dense and dureable, and appears to be Composed of a large portion of earth intermixed or Cemented with a Small quantity of Sand and a Considerable portion of quarts. these Stones are almost invariably regular parallelepipeds, of unequal Sizes in the wall, but equal in their horizontal ranges, at least as to debth. These are laid regularly in ranges on each other like bricks, each breaking or covering this interstice of the two on which it rests, thus the pirpendicular interstices are broken, and the horizontal ones extend entire throughout the whole extent of the walls. These Stones Seam to bear Some proportion to the thickness of the walls in which they are employd, being larger in the thicker walls; the greatest length of the parallelepiped appear to form the thickness of the thiner walls, while two or more are employed to form that of the thicker walls. Those walls pass the river in Several places rising from the waters edge much above the Sand Stone Bluffs, which they Seam to penetrate; thence Continueing their course on a Streight line on either Side of the river thorough the gradually ascending plains over which they tower to the hight of from ten to 90 feet untill they reach the hills which they finally enter and Conceal themselves. these walls Sometimes run parallel to each other, with Several ranges near each other, and at other times intersecting each other at right angles, haveing the appearance of the walls of ancient houses or gardins. both Capt Lewis and My self walked on Shore this evening and examined those walls minutely and preserved a Specimine of the Stone.—I found many clifts of very excellent free Stone of a light yellowish brown Colour. Capt. Lewis observed a Species of pine which I had never Seen, it differs from the pitch pine in the particular of its leaf and Cone, the first being partly Shorter, and the latter considerably longer and more pointed. The appearance of Coal Continues but in Smaller quantities, but little appearance of burnt hills or pumicestone. the mineral Salt in Some measure have abated and no quarts. we Saw a great number of the Big Horn, Some mule deer, and a few Buffalow and Elk, no antelopes or Common Deer-. Capt. Lewis killed a Big horn animal. the party killed 2 Buffalow one Elk and a Big horn or Ibex to day-. The river has been from 150 to 250 yards wide but little timber on the river to day. river less muddy than it was below.
As we passed by, it seemed like those scenes of enchanting beauty would never end. Here, nature offers travelers vast stretches of walls that are built quite well. These walls are so perfect that I would have thought nature was trying to outdo human masonry if I hadn’t remembered that she started this work first. These walls rise up to heights of 100 feet in many places, standing straight up with two regular sides, and they are between 1 to 12 feet thick, maintaining the same thickness from bottom to top. The stone these walls are made of is black, dense, and durable, appearing to be made up of a large amount of earth mixed or cemented with a small quantity of sand and a significant portion of quartz. The stones are almost always regular parallelepipeds, of varying sizes in the wall but equal in their horizontal ranges, at least in depth. They are laid out neatly in rows on top of each other like bricks, each one overlapping or covering the gap of the two below it, thus breaking the vertical gaps while the horizontal ones extend fully across the entire length of the walls. These stones seem proportionate to the thickness of the walls in which they are used, being larger in the thicker walls; the longest stones form the thickness of the thinner walls, while two or more are used for the thicker walls. These walls cross the river in several spots, rising from the water’s edge well above the sandstone bluffs they seem to penetrate; then they continue straight on either side of the river across the gradually ascending plains, towering from 10 to 90 feet high until they finally reach the hills, where they disappear. Sometimes these walls run parallel to each other with several rows close together, and at other times they intersect at right angles, resembling the walls of ancient houses or gardens. Both Captain Lewis and I walked onshore this evening to examine these walls closely and collected a specimen of the stone. I found many outcrops of excellent free stone with a light yellowish-brown color. Captain Lewis noted a type of pine I had never seen before, which differs from pitch pine in its leaves and cones; the leaves are somewhat shorter, and the cones are much longer and pointier. The appearance of coal continues, though in smaller quantities, with little sign of burnt hills or pumice stone. The presence of mineral salt has decreased somewhat, and there is no quartz. We saw a lot of big horn sheep, some mule deer, and a few buffalo and elk, but no antelope or common deer. Captain Lewis killed a big horn animal. The party also killed 2 buffalo, 1 elk, and another big horn or ibex today. The river has been between 150 to 250 yards wide, with little timber along the river today. The river is less muddy than it was downstream.
[Lewis, June 1, 1805]
Saturday June 1st 1805 The moring was cloudy and a few drops of rain. Set out at an early hour and proceeded as usual by the help of our chords. the river Clifts and bluffs not so high as yesterday and the country becomes more level. a mountain or a part of the N. Mountain appears to approach the river within 8 or 10 ms. bearing N. from our encampment of the last evening. Capt C. who walked on shore today informed me that the river hills were much lower than usual and that from the tops of those hills he had a delightfull view of rich level and extensive plains on both sides of the river; in those plains, which in many places reach the river clifts, he observed large banks of pure sand which appeared to have been driven by the S W. winds from the river bluffs and there deposited. the plains are more fertile at some distance from the river than near the bluffs where the surface of the earth is very generally covered with small smothe pebbles which have the appearance of having been woarn by the agitation of the waters in which they were no doubt once immerced. A range of high Mountains appear to the S. W. at a considerable distance covered with snow, they appear to run Westerly. no timber appears on the highlands; but much more than yesterday on the river and Islands. rockey points and shoals less freequent than yesterday but some of them quite as bad when they did occur. the river from 2 to 400 yards wide, courant more gentle and still becoming clearer. game is by no means as abundant as below; we killed one male bighorn and a mule deer today; saw buffalow at a distance in the plains particularly near a small Lake on Lard. side about 8 ms. distant. some few drops of rain again fell this evening. we passed six Islands and encamped on the 7th; they are all small but contain some timber. the wind has been against us all day.—I saw the choke cherry the yellow and red courant bushes; the wild rose appears now to be in full bloom as are also the prickley pear which are numerous in these plains.—We also saw some Indian Lodges of sticks today which did not appear to have been long evacuated.—some coal appear in the bluffs.
Saturday, June 1st, 1805 The morning was cloudy with a few drops of rain. We set out early and continued as usual with the help of our chords. The cliffs and bluffs of the river weren’t as high as yesterday, and the landscape became more level. A mountain, part of the northern range, seemed to come closer to the river, about 8 to 10 miles north from our camp from the night before. Captain C., who walked on shore today, told me that the hills by the river were much lower than usual. From the tops of those hills, he enjoyed a lovely view of rich, flat, expansive plains on both sides of the river. In those plains, which often extend to the river cliffs, he noticed large banks of pure sand that seemed to have been carried by the southwest winds from the river bluffs and deposited there. The plains are more fertile further away from the river than near the bluffs, where the ground is generally covered with small smooth pebbles that look like they’ve been worn down by the movement of the waters they must have once been submerged in. A range of high mountains appeared to the southwest, far off and covered with snow, running westward. There’s no timber on the highlands, but there’s much more than yesterday along the river and islands. Rocky points and shoals are less frequent than yesterday, though some of them are just as troublesome when they do appear. The river is 200 to 400 yards wide, with a gentler current, and it's becoming clearer. Game isn’t nearly as abundant as downstream; we killed one male bighorn and a mule deer today, and we saw buffalo in the distance on the plains, especially near a small lake on the left side about 8 miles away. A few more drops of rain fell this evening. We passed six islands and camped on the seventh; they are all small but have some timber. The wind has been against us all day. I spotted choke cherries, yellow and red currant bushes; the wild rose seems to be in full bloom now, as are the prickly pears that are plentiful in these plains. We also saw some Indian lodges made of sticks today that didn’t seem to have been vacant for long. Some coal is visible in the bluffs.
[Clark, June 1, 1805]
June 1st Satterday 1805 a Cloudy morning we Set out at an early hour and proseeded on as usial with the toe rope The Countrey appears to be lower and the Clifts not So high or Common, a mountain or a part of the north Mountain about 8 or 10 miles N. of this place, I walked on Shore to day found the Plains much lower than we have Seen them and on the top we behold an extencive plain on both Sides, in this plain I observed maney noles of fine Sand which appeared to have blown from the river bluffs and collected at these points Those plains are fertile near the river a great no. of Small Stone, I observed at Some distance to the S. W. a high mountain which appears to bear westerly The Cole appear as usial, more Cotton trees Scattered on the Shores & Islands than yesterday—no timber on the high land, the river from 2 to 400 yards wide & current more jentle than yesterday but fiew bad rapid points to day—the wild animals not So plenty as below we only killed a ram & mule Deer to day, we Saw Buffalow at a distance in the plains, particularly near a Lake on the Lard. Side about 8 miles distant from the river—We passed Six Islands and encamped on the 7th all those Islands are Small but contain Some timber on them The river riseing a little Wind to day from the S. W. Som fiew drops of rain in the morning and also in the evening, flying Clouds all day
June 1st, Saturday, 1805. It was a cloudy morning as we set out early and proceeded as usual with the tow rope. The land seems to be lower, and the cliffs are not as high or common. There's a mountain or part of the northern mountain about 8 to 10 miles north of here. I walked along the shore today and noticed that the plains are much lower than we’ve seen before. On top, we could see an extensive plain on both sides. In this plain, I observed many mounds of fine sand that seemed to have blown from the river bluffs and gathered at these spots. Those plains are fertile near the river, with a lot of small stones. I noticed a high mountain some distance to the southwest that appears to stretch westward. The coal seems to be the same as usual, with more cottonwood trees scattered along the shores and islands than yesterday—no timber on the high land. The river is 200 to 400 yards wide, and the current is gentler than yesterday, but there are still a few bad rapids today. The wild animals are not as plentiful as below; we only killed a ram and a mule deer today. We saw buffalo in the distance on the plains, particularly near a lake on the left side about 8 miles away from the river. We passed six islands and camped on the seventh. All these islands are small but have some timber on them. The river is rising a bit. There was a light breeze today from the southwest and a few drops of rain in the morning and also in the evening, with flying clouds all day.
Saw Several Indian camps made of Sticks & bark Set up on end and do not appear to belong evacuated—The roses are in full bloome, I observe yellow berries, red berry bushes Great numbers of Wild or choke Cheries, prickley pares are in blossom & in great numbers
Saw several Indian camps made of sticks and bark set up on end and they don't seem to belong to anyone anymore. The roses are in full bloom; I notice yellow berries, red berry bushes, and a lot of wild or choke cherries. Prickly pears are blooming and in great numbers.
[Lewis, June 2, 1805]
Sunday June 2ed 1805 The wind blew violently last night and was attended by a slight shower of rain; the morning was fair and we set out at an early hour. imployed the chord as usual the greater part of the day. the courant was strong tho regular, and the banks afforded us good toeing. the wind was hard and against us yet we proceded with infinitely more ease than the two precedeing days. The river bluffs still continue to get lower and the plains leveler and more extensive; the timber on the river increases in quantity; the country in all other rispects much as discribed yesterday. I think we are now completely above the black hills we had a small shower of rain today but it lasted only a few minutes and was very moderate. Game becomeing more abundant this morning and I thought it best now to loose no time or suffer an opportunity to escape in providing the necessary quantity of Elk's skins to cover my leather boat which I now expect I shall be obliged to use shortly. Accordingly I walked on shore most of the day with some of the hunters for that purpose and killed 6 Elk 2 buffale 2 Mule deer and a bear. these anamals were all in good order we therefore took as much of the meat as our canoes and perogues could conveniently carry. the bear was very near catching Drewyer; it also pursued Charbono who fired his gun in the air as he ran but fortunately eluded the vigilence of the bear by secreting himself very securely in the bushes untill Drewyer finally killed it by a shot in the head; the shot indeed that will conquer the farocity of those tremendious anamals.—in the course of the day we passed 9 Islands all of them small and most of them containing some timber.
Sunday, June 2, 1805. The wind blew fiercely last night, accompanied by a light rain shower; this morning was clear, and we set off early. I used the chord as usual for most of the day. The current was strong but steady, and the banks provided good anchoring. The wind was strong and against us, yet we made much better progress than the previous two days. The river bluffs continue to get lower, and the plains are flatter and more expansive; the timber along the river is increasing in amount; the rest of the landscape is much as described yesterday. I believe we are now completely past the Black Hills. We had a brief rain shower today, but it only lasted a few minutes and was quite light. Game is becoming more plentiful this morning, and I thought it best to not waste any time or miss the opportunity to gather enough elk skins to cover my leather boat, which I expect I will need to use soon. So, I spent most of the day walking ashore with some of the hunters and managed to kill 6 elk, 2 buffalo, 2 mule deer, and a bear. These animals were all in good condition, so we took as much meat as our canoes and pirogues could carry comfortably. The bear nearly caught Drewyer; it also chased Charbono, who fired his gun into the air as he ran, but fortunately, he escaped the bear’s attention by hiding securely in the bushes until Drewyer finally killed it with a shot to the head; that shot was indeed what it took to overcome the ferocity of those formidable animals. Throughout the day, we passed 9 small islands, most of which had some timber.
we came too on the Lard. side in a handsome bottom of small cottonwood timber opposite to the entrance of a very considerable river; but it being too late to examine these rivers minutely to night we determined to remain here untill the morning, and as the evening was favourable to make some obsevations.-
we woke up on the Lard. side in a nice spot with small cottonwood trees, right across from the entrance of a pretty big river; however, since it was too late to check out these rivers closely tonight, we decided to stay here until morning, and since the evening was good, we made some observations.
[Clark, June 2, 1805]
June 2nd Sunday 1805 we had a hard wind and a little rain last night, this morning fair we Set out at an early hour, wind from the S W. Some little rain to day wind hard a head, the Countrey much like that of yesterday as discribed Capt Lewis walked on Shore, himself & the hunters killed 6 Elk & a Bear and 2 mule deer, and 2 buffalow which was all in good order a beaver also killed to day, passed 9 Islands to day the Current Swift but regular, we Camped on the Lard Side at the forks of the river the Currents & Sizes of them we Could not examine this evening a fair night we took Some Luner observations of moon & Stears
June 2nd, Sunday, 1805. We had a strong wind and a little rain last night. This morning was clear, and we set out early, with the wind coming from the southwest. There was a bit of rain today, and the wind was hard against us. The countryside looked much like yesterday. Captain Lewis walked on shore with the hunters, and they killed 6 elk, a bear, 2 mule deer, and 2 buffalo, all in good condition. They also caught a beaver today. We passed 9 islands; the current was swift but steady. We camped on the left side at the river forks. We couldn't examine the currents and sizes of the rivers this evening. It was a clear night, and we took some lunar observations of the moon and stars.
[Lewis, June 3, 1805]
Monday June 3rd 1805 This morning early we passed over and formed a camp on the point formed by the junction of the two large rivers. here in the course of the day I continued my observations as are above stated. An interesting question was now to be determined; which of these rivers was the Missouri, or that river which the Minnetares call Amahte Arz zha or Missouri, and which they had discribed to us as approaching very near to the Columbia river. to mistake the stream at this period of the season, two months of the traveling season having now elapsed, and to ascend such stream to the rocky Mountain or perhaps much further before we could inform ourselves whether it did approach the Columbia or not, and then be obliged to return and take the other stream would not only loose us the whole of this season but would probably so dishearten the party that it might defeat the expedition altogether. convinced we were that the utmost circumspection and caution was necessary in deciding on the stream to be taken. to this end an investigation of both streams was the first thing to be done; to learn their widths, debths, comparitive rappidity of their courants and thence the comparitive bodies of water furnished by each; accordingly we dispatched two light canoes with three men in each up those streams; we also sent out several small parties by land with instructions to penetrate the country as far as they conveniently can permiting themselves time to return this evening and indeavour if possible to discover the distant bearing of those rivers by ascending the rising grounds. between the time of my A.M. and meridian Capt. C & myself stroled out to the top of the hights in the fork of these rivers from whence we had an extensive and most inchanting view; the country in every derection around us was one vast plain in which innumerable herds of Buffalow were seen attended by their shepperds the wolves; the solatary antelope which now had their young were distributed over it's face; some herds of Elk were also seen; the verdure perfectly cloathed the ground, the weather was pleasent and fair; to the South we saw a range of lofty mountains which we supposed to be a continuation of the S. Mountains, streching themselves from S. E. to N. W. terminating abbrubtly about S. West from us; these were partially covered with snow; behind these Mountains and at a great distance, a second and more lofty range of mountains appeared to strech across the country in the same direction with the others, reaching from West, to the N of N. W., where their snowey tops lost themselves beneath the horizon. this last range was perfectly covered with snow. the direction of the rivers could be seen but little way, soon loosing the break of their channels, to our view, in the common plain. on our return to camp we boar a little to the left and discovered a handsome little river falling into the N. fork on Lard. side about 11/2 ms. above our camp. this little river has as much timber in it's bottoms as either of the larger streams. there are a great number of prickley pears in these plains; the Choke cherry grows here in abundance both in the river bottoms and in the steep ravenes along the river bluffs. saw the yellow and red courants, not yet ripe; also the goosberry which begins to ripen; the wild rose which grows here in great abundance in the bottoms of all these rivers is now in full bloom, and adds not a little to the beaty of the cenery. we took the width of the two rivers, found the left hand or S. fork 372 yards and the N. fork 200. The noth fork is deeper than the other but it's courant not so swift; it's waters run in the same boiling and roling manner which has uniformly characterized the Missouri throughout it's whole course so far; it's waters are of a whitish brown colour very thick and terbid, also characteristic of the Missouri; while the South fork is perfectly transparent runds very rappid but with a smoth unruffled surface it's bottom composed of round and flat smooth stones like most rivers issuing from a mountainous country. the bed of the N. fork composed of some gravel but principally mud; in short the air & character of this river is so precisely that of the missouri below that the party with very few exceptions have already pronounced the N. fork to be the Missouri; myself and Capt. C. not quite so precipitate have not yet decided but if we were to give our opinions I believe we should be in the minority, certain it is that the North fork gives the colouring matter and character which is retained from hence to the gulph of Mexico. I am confident that this river rises in and passes a great distance through an open plain country I expect that it has some of it's souces on the Eastern side of the rocky mountain South of the Saskashawan, but that it dose not penetrate the first range of these Mountains and that much the greater part of it's sources are in a northwardly direction towards the lower and middle parts of the Saskashawan in the open plains. convinced I am that if it penetrated the Rocky Mountains to any great distance it's waters would be clearer unless it should run an immence distance indeed after leaving those mountains through these level plains in order to acquire it's turbid hue. what astonishes us a little is that the Indians who appeared to be so well acquainted with the geography of this country should not have mentioned this river on wright hand if it be not the Missouri; the river that scolds at all others, as they call it if there is in reallity such an one, ought agreeably to their account, to have fallen in a considerable distance below, and on the other hand if this righthand or N. fork be the Missouri I am equally astonished at their not mentioning the S. fork which they must have passed in order to get to those large falls which they mention on the Missouri. thus have our cogitating faculties been busily employed all day.
Monday, June 3rd, 1805 This morning, we set up camp at the point where the two large rivers meet. Throughout the day, I continued my observations as mentioned above. An important question needed to be answered: which of these rivers was the Missouri, or as the Minnetares call it, Amahte Arz zha, and which they described as being very close to the Columbia River. It would be a significant mistake to misidentify the stream at this time of year—two months into our travel season—and to head upstream toward the Rocky Mountains or possibly even further before knowing if it leads to the Columbia. This would not only waste the entire season but could also demoralize the group to the point of jeopardizing the expedition. We were sure that extreme caution was necessary when deciding which stream to take. Therefore, we needed to investigate both rivers first; to measure their widths, depths, and the relative speed of their currents, and then determine the comparative volumes of water from each. To this end, we sent two light canoes with three men each up both streams. We also dispatched several small groups on land with orders to explore the area as far as they could, allowing time to return this evening and, if possible, discover the direction of those rivers by climbing higher ground. Between my morning observations and noon, Captain C. and I walked to the top of the heights at the fork of these rivers, where we had an extensive and breathtaking view. The landscape around us was one vast plain, filled with countless herds of buffalo, accompanied by their guardians, the wolves. Solitary antelopes with their young scattered across the terrain, and we also spotted some herds of elk. The ground was richly covered in greenery, and the weather was pleasant and clear. To the south, we observed a range of tall mountains that we believed to be a continuation of the Southern Mountains, stretching from southeast to northwest and abruptly ending to the southwest of us; these mountains were partially snow-covered. Behind this range, at a great distance, another taller mountain range appeared to extend across the land in the same direction, reaching from the west to the north-northwest, where its snowy peaks disappeared beneath the horizon. This last range was fully covered in snow. The direction of the rivers was hard to see for any distance, as their channels soon faded from view in the flatland. On our return to camp, we veered slightly left and discovered a nice little river flowing into the north fork on the left side, about 1.5 miles above our camp. This little river had as much timber in its banks as either of the larger streams. There were many prickly pears in these plains; chokecherries grew abundantly in both the river bottoms and the steep ravines along the river bluffs. We saw yellow and red currants, which were not yet ripe; also, the gooseberries were beginning to ripen; the wild rose, which grows abundantly along the bottoms of all these rivers, was now in full bloom, adding to the beauty of the scene. We measured the widths of the two rivers; the south fork measured 372 yards, and the north fork measured 200. The north fork is deeper than the other, but its current is not as swift; its waters flow in the same bubbling and rolling manner that has consistently characterized the Missouri so far; its waters are a cloudy, whitish-brown color, which is also typical of the Missouri. The south fork, on the other hand, is perfectly clear, flows quickly but with a smooth surface, and its bottom consists of round, flat, smooth stones like most rivers coming from mountainous areas. The bed of the north fork has some gravel but is primarily composed of mud. In short, the air and characteristics of this river closely resemble those of the Missouri downstream, leading most of the party, with very few exceptions, to conclude that the north fork is the Missouri. Captain C. and I, being a bit more cautious, haven't made a final decision yet, but if we were to express our opinions, I believe we would be in the minority. It's clear that the north fork exhibits the same coloring and characteristics that persist all the way to the Gulf of Mexico. I'm confident that this river rises in and flows through a vast open plain and suspect that some of its sources are on the eastern side of the Rocky Mountains south of the Saskatchewan, but I don't believe it penetrates the first range of these mountains, and that most of its sources lie to the north towards the lower and middle sections of the Saskatchewan in the open plains. I'm convinced that if it extended deep into the Rocky Mountains, its waters would be clearer unless it traveled an extremely long distance after leaving those mountains through these flatlands to achieve its murky appearance. What puzzles us a bit is that the Indians, who seem to have a good understanding of the geography here, haven't mentioned this river to the right if it isn't the Missouri—the river that outshines all others, as they call it, should have appeared considerably further downstream according to their account. On the other hand, if this right-hand north fork is the Missouri, I am equally surprised they didn’t mention the south fork, which they must have passed to reach the large falls they talk about on the Missouri. Thus, we've been deeply engaged in thought all day.
Those who have remained at camp today have been busily engaged in dressing skins for cloathing, notwithstanding that many of them have their feet so mangled and bruised with the stones and rough ground over which they passed barefoot, that they can scarcely walk or stand; at least it is with great pain they do either. for some days past they were unable to wear their mockersons; they have fallen off considerably, but notwithstanding the difficulties past, or those which seem now to mennace us, they still remain perfectly cheerfull. In the evening the parties whom we had sent out returned agreeably to instructions. The parties who had been sent up the rivers in canoes informed that they ascended some distance and had then left their canoes and walked up the rivers a considerable distance further barely leaving themselves time to return; the North fork was not so rappid as the other and afforded the easiest navigation of course; Six feet appeared to be the shallowest water of the S. Branch and 5 feet that of the N. Their accounts were by no means satisfactory nor did the information we acquired bring us nigher to the decision of our question or determine us which stream to take. Sergt. Pryor had ascended the N. fork and had taken the following courses and distances-viz-
Those who stayed at camp today have been busy preparing skins for clothing, even though many of them have their feet so injured and sore from the stones and rough ground they walked over barefoot that they can hardly walk or stand; doing either is very painful for them. For the past few days, they haven't been able to wear their shoes; they have deteriorated significantly. Despite the past challenges and the problems that now seem to threaten us, they remain completely cheerful. In the evening, the groups we sent out returned as instructed. The teams that went up the rivers in canoes reported that they traveled some distance before leaving their canoes and walked up the rivers much further, barely leaving themselves enough time to get back. The North fork wasn't as fast-flowing as the other, making it the easier route. Six feet seemed to be the shallowest in the South Branch, while the North Branch had five feet. Their reports were not very satisfying, and the information we gathered did not bring us closer to a decision about which stream to take. Sergeant Pryor had traveled up the North fork and took the following courses and distances—viz—
Joseph and Reubin Fields reported that they had been up the South fork about 7 mes. on a streight course somewhat N of W. and that there the little river which discharges itself into the North fork just above us, was within 100 yards of the S. fork; that they came down this little river and found it a boald runing stream of about 40 yds. wide containg much timber in it's bottom, consisting of the narrow and wide leafed cottonwood with some birch and box alder undrgrowth willows rosebushes currents &c. they saw a great number of Elk on this river and some beaver. Those accounts being by no means satisfactory as to the fundamental point; Capt. C. and myself concluded to set out early the next morning with a small party each, and ascend these rivers untill we could perfectly satisfy ourselves of the one, which it would be most expedient for us to take on our main journey to the Pacific. accordingly it was agreed that I should ascend the right hand fork and he the left. I gave orders to Sergt. Pryor Drewyer, Shields, Windsor, Cruzatte and La Page to hold themselves in readiness to accompany me in the morning. Capt. Clark also selected Reubin &Joseph Fields, Sergt. Gass, Shannon and his black man York, to accompany him. we agreed to go up those rivers one day and a halfs march or further if it should appear necessary to satisfy us more fully of the point in question. the hunters killed 2 Buffaloe, 6 Elk and 4 deer today. the evening proved cloudy. we took a drink of grog this evening and gave the men a dram, and made all matters ready for an early departure in the morning. I had now my sack and blanket happerst in readiness to swing on my back, which is the first time in my life that I had ever prepared a burthen of this kind, and I am fully convinced that it will not be the last. I take my Octant with me also, this I confide La Page.
Joseph and Reubin Fields reported that they had traveled up the South Fork for about 7 miles in a straight line somewhat northwest. They stated that the small river that flows into the North Fork just above us was within 100 yards of the South Fork. They followed this little river and found it to be a bold, flowing stream about 40 yards wide, with plenty of timber along its banks, including both narrow and broad-leaved cottonwood, as well as some birch and box alder, underbrush willows, rosebushes, currants, etc. They saw a large number of elk along this river and some beaver. Since their reports were not satisfactory regarding the crucial issue, Captain C. and I decided to set out early the next morning with a small group each, to explore these rivers until we could clearly determine which one we should take for our main journey to the Pacific. So, we agreed that I would take the right-hand fork and he would take the left. I instructed Sergeant Pryor, Drewyer, Shields, Windsor, Cruzatte, and La Page to be ready to accompany me in the morning. Captain Clark also selected Reubin and Joseph Fields, Sergeant Gass, Shannon, and his black man York to go with him. We agreed to travel up those rivers for a day and a half or further if necessary to get a clearer understanding of the issue at hand. The hunters killed 2 buffalo, 6 elk, and 4 deer today. The evening turned out to be cloudy. We had a drink of grog this evening and gave the men a shot, preparing everything for an early departure in the morning. I had my sack and blanket packed and ready to carry on my back, which was the first time in my life that I had ever prepared a load like this, and I’m sure it won’t be the last. I’m also taking my octant with me, which I trust to La Page.
[Clark, June 3, 1805]
June 3rd Monday 1805 we formed a Camp on the point in the junction of the two rivers, and dispatched a Canoe & three men up each river to examine and find if possible which is the most probable branch, the left fork which is the largest we are doubtfull of, the Indians do not mention any river falling in on the right in this part of the Missouri, The Scolding river, if there is Such a one Should have fallen in below agreeable to their accts. we also dispatched men in different dircts. by land, to a mountain Covered with Snow to the South & other up each river—Capt Lewis and my Self walked out & assended the hill in the point observed a leavel open Countrey to the foot of the mountains which lye South of this, also a River which falls into the Right hand fork about 11/2 miles above its mouth on the Lard. Side this little river discharges a great deal of water & contains as much Cotton timber in its bottoms as either of the others we saw Buffalow & antelopes &c. wild Cheries, red & yellow hurries, Goose berries &c. abound in the river bottoms, prickley pares on the high plains, we had a meridian altitude and the Lattd. produced was 47° 24' 12" N. the after part of the day proved Cloudy, we measured each river and found the one to Right hand 200 yards wide of water & the Left hand fork 372 yards wide & rapid—the right hand fork falling the other at a Stand and Clear, the right fork and the river which fall into it is Coloured & a little muddey. Several men Complain of their feet being Sore in walking in the Sand & their being Cut by the Stones They to be Sure have a bad time of it obliged to walk on Shore & haul the rope and 9/10 of their time bear footed, in the evening late the Canoes returned and the men informed us that they had assended Some miles by water & left their Canoes & walked on land the greater part of the day, their accounts by no means Satisfactory, Serjt. Pryor assended the right hand fork and took the following Courses, &c
June 3rd Monday 1805, we set up camp at the point where the two rivers meet, and sent a canoe and three men up each river to explore and find out which branch is more likely to be the main one. We're unsure about the left fork since it's the largest. The Indians haven't mentioned any river coming in on the right side around here, and if there is a Scolding River, it should have joined below based on what they've told us. We also sent men in different directions on land towards a snow-covered mountain to the south and others up each river. Captain Lewis and I walked out and climbed the hill at the point. We saw level open land leading to the foot of the mountains south of here, as well as a river flowing into the right fork about a mile and a half upstream on the left side. This small river carries a lot of water and has as much cottonwood timber in its banks as the others we’ve seen. We spotted buffalo, antelope, and plenty of wild cherries, red and yellow huckleberries, and gooseberries in the river bottoms, along with prickly pears on the high plains. We took a meridian altitude, which put our latitude at 47° 24' 12" N. The latter part of the day was cloudy. We measured both rivers and found the right one was 200 yards wide while the left fork was 372 yards wide and rapid. The right fork flows into the other one, which is still and clear. The right fork and its tributary are colored and slightly muddy. Several men complained about sore feet from walking in the sand and getting cut by the stones. They really had a rough time having to walk on the shore, haul the rope, and spend most of their time barefoot. Late in the evening, the canoes returned, and the men reported that they went several miles by water but left their canoes and walked on land for most of the day. Their accounts were far from satisfactory. Sergeant Pryor ascended the right fork and noted the following courses, etc.
Joseph & Rubin Fields went up the left fork 7 miles on a direct line at which place, the Small river which falls into the right hand fork approaches within 100 yards of the South fork, they Came down the Small river which is a bold Stream Covered with Elk & Some beaver, its bottoms Covered with wood, as the Information given by those parties respecting the rivers did not Satisfy us as to the main & principal branch Capt. Lewis & my Self deturmined to go up each of those rivers one Day & a half with a view to Satisfy ourselves which of the two was the principal Stream and best calculated for us to assend—The hunters Killed 2 buffalow, 6 Elk & Several deer to day we refreshed our party with a dram &c Cloudy evining.-
Joseph & Rubin Fields traveled up the left fork for 7 miles in a straight line, where the Small River, which flows into the right-hand fork, comes within 100 yards of the South Fork. They followed the Small River, which is a strong stream filled with elk and some beavers, its banks lined with trees. Since the information we received about the rivers didn’t satisfy us regarding which was the main and principal branch, Captain Lewis and I decided to explore each of those rivers for a day and a half to figure out which one was the primary stream and more suitable for us to navigate. The hunters killed 2 buffalo, 6 elk, and several deer today, and we treated our group to a drink. It was a cloudy evening.
[Lewis, June 4, 1805]
Tuesday June 4th 1805 This morning early Capt. C. departed, and at the same time I passed the wright hand fork opposite to our camp below a small Island; from hence I steered N. 30 W. 41/2 to a commanding eminence; here I took the following bearings of the mountains which were in view. The North Mountains appear to change their direction from that of being parallel with the Missouri turning to the North and terminating abruptly; their termineation bearing N. 48° E distant by estimate 30 mes. The South Mountains appear to turn to the S. also terminating abrubtly, their extremity bearing S. 8 W. distant 25 mes. The Barn Mountain, a lofty mountain so called from it's resemblance to the roof of a large Barn, is a seperate Mountain and appears reather to the wright of and retreating from the extremity of the S. mts.; this boar S. 38 W. distant 35 ms. The North fork which I am now ascending lies to my left and appears to make a considerable bend to the N. W. on it's Western border a range of hills about 10 mes. long appear to lye parallel with the river and from hence bear N. 60° W. to the N. of this range of hills an Elivated point of the river bluff on it's Lard. side boar N. 72° W. distant 12 mes. to this last object I now directed my course through a high level dry open plain. the whole country in fact appears to be one continued plain to the foot of the mountains or as far as the eye can reach; the soil appears dark rich and fertile yet the grass is by no means as high nor dose it look so luxurient as I should have expected, it is short just sufficient to conceal the ground. great abundance of prickly pears which are extreemly troublesome; as the thorns very readily perce the foot through the Mockerson; they are so numerous that it requires one half of the traveler's attention to avoid them In these plains I observed great numbers of the brown Curloos, a small species of curloo or plover of a brown colour about the size of the common snipe and not unlike it in form with a long celindric curved and pointed beak; it's wings are proportionately long and the tail short; in the act of liteing this bird lets itself down by an extention of it's wings without motion holding their points very much together above it's back, in this rispect differing ascentially from any bird I ever observed. a number of sparrows also of three distinct species I observed. also a small bird which in action resembles the lark, it is about the size of a large sparrow of a dark brown colour with some white fathers in the tail; this bird or that which I take to be the male rises into the air about 60 feet and supporting itself in the air with a brisk motion of the wings sings very sweetly, has several shrill soft notes reather of the plaintive order which it frequently repeats and varies, after remaining stationary about a minute in his aireal station he descends obliquely occasionly pausing and accomnying his decension with a note something like twit twit twit; on the ground he is silent. thirty or forty of these birds will be stationed in the air at a time in view, these larks as I shall call them add much to the gayety and cheerfullness of the scene. All those birds are now seting and laying their eggs in the plains; their little nests are to be seen in great abundance as we pass. there are meriads of small grasshoppers in these plains which no doubt furnish the principal aliment of this numerous progeny of the feathered creation. after walking about eight miles I grew thisty and there being no water in the plains I changed my direction and boar obliquely in towards the river, on my arrival at which about 3 mes. below the point of observation, we discovered two deer at feed at some distance near the river; I here halted the party and sent Drewyer to kill one of them for breakfast; this excellent hunter soon exceded his orders by killing of them both; they proved to be two Mule Bucks in fine order; we soon kindled a fire cooked and made a hearty meal. it was not yet twelve when we arrived at the river and I was anxious to take the Meridian Altd. of the sun but the clouds prevent ed my obtaining the observation. after refreshing ourselves we proceded up the river to the extremity of the first course, from whence the river boar on it's general course N. 15° W. 2 M. to a bluff point on Stard. here Drewyer killed four other deer of the common kind; we skined them and hung up a part of the meat and the skins as we did also of the first, and took as much of the meat as we thought would answer for our suppers and proceeded N. 30 W. 2 m. to the entrance of a large creek on Lard. side the part of the river we have passed is from 40 to 60 yds. wide, is deep, has falling banks, the courant strong, the water terbid and in short has every appearance of the missouri below except as to size. it's bottoms narrow but well timbered. Salts coal and other mineral appearances as usual; the bluffs principally of dark brown, yellow and some white clay; some freestone also appears in places. The river now boar N. 20° E. 12 mes. to a bluff on Lard. At the commencement of this course we ascended the hills which are about 200 feet high, and passed through the plains about 3 m. but finding the dry ravines so steep and numerous we determined to return to the river and travel through it's bottoms and along the foot and sides of the bluffs, accordingly we again reached the river about 4 miles from the commencement of the last course and encamped a small distant above on the Stard. side in a bend among the willow bushes which defended us from the wind which blew hard from the N. W. it rained this evening and wet us to the skin; the air was extremely could. just before we encamped Drewyer fired at a large brown bar across the river and wounded him badly but it was too late to pursue him. killed a braro and a beaver, also at the place of our encampment, a very fine Mule deer. we saw a great number of Buffaloe, Elk, wolves and foxes today. the river bottoms form one emence garden of roses, now in full bloe.
Tuesday, June 4, 1805 This morning, Captain C. left, and at the same time, I took the right-hand fork across from our camp, below a small island. From there, I steered N. 30 W. for 4.5 miles to a high point. Here, I noted the following mountain bearings visible in the area. The North Mountains seem to change direction from parallel with the Missouri, turning north and ending abruptly; their end bears N. 48° E, about 30 miles away. The South Mountains also curve south and end suddenly, with their extremity bearing S. 8 W, about 25 miles away. Barn Mountain, a tall mountain resembling the roof of a large barn, is a separate mountain that appears to the right and retreats from the southern mountains; it bears S. 38 W, about 35 miles away. The North Fork that I'm currently ascending is to my left and seems to bend significantly northwest. On its western border, a range of hills about 10 miles long runs parallel to the river, bearing N. 60° W. To the north of this range, an elevated point on the riverbank on its left side bears N. 72° W, about 12 miles away. I directed my course toward this point through a high, dry, open plain. The entire area indeed appears to be one continuous plain leading to the foot of the mountains, or as far as the eye can see; the soil looks dark, rich, and fertile, yet the grass isn't as tall nor does it look as lush as I expected; it's short, just enough to cover the ground. There are plenty of prickly pears, which are extremely bothersome; the thorns easily pierce the foot through the moccasins. They are so numerous that it takes half of a traveler's attention to avoid them. In these plains, I saw many brown curlews, a small species of plover about the size of a common snipe, with a long cylindrical, curved, and pointed beak; its wings are proportionately long and its tail short. When landing, this bird descends by extending its wings without flapping, holding their tips close together above its back; in this respect, it differs significantly from any bird I’ve ever seen. I also spotted sparrows of three distinct species, along with a small bird that resembles a lark. It’s about the size of a large sparrow, dark brown, with some white feathers in its tail. This bird, which I think is the male, rises about 60 feet into the air, hovering there with a brisk wing motion and singing very sweetly, with several soft, shrill notes that are somewhat plaintive, which it frequently repeats and varies. After staying in the air for about a minute, it descends obliquely, occasionally pausing and accompanying its descent with a sound like "twit twit twit"; on the ground, it is silent. At times, thirty or forty of these birds will be in the air together; these larks, as I’ll call them, add much to the liveliness and cheeriness of the scene. All these birds are currently nesting and laying their eggs in the plains; we can see their little nests in great numbers as we pass. There are countless small grasshoppers in these plains, which undoubtedly provide the main food source for this abundance of feathered life. After walking about eight miles, I became thirsty, and since there was no water in the plains, I changed my direction and angled toward the river. Upon reaching the river, about 3 miles below my observation point, we spotted two deer feeding at a distance near the river. I halted the party and sent Drewyer to hunt one for breakfast; this excellent hunter soon exceeded his orders by taking both of them. They turned out to be two fine mule bucks. We quickly started a fire, cooked, and enjoyed a hearty meal. It wasn't even noon when we arrived at the river, and I was eager to take the sun's meridian altitude, but the clouds prevented me from making the observation. After refreshing ourselves, we proceeded up the river to the end of the first leg, from where the river bears generally N. 15° W for 2 miles to a bluff point on the starboard side. Here, Drewyer killed four more deer of the common kind; we skinned them and hung up parts of the meat and skins, just like we did with the first catch, and took as much meat as we thought would be enough for our supper. We then moved N. 30 W for 2 miles to the entrance of a large creek on the left side. The part of the river we’ve passed is between 40 to 60 yards wide, deep, has steep banks, a strong current, turbidity, and overall resembles the Missouri below, except for its size. Its bottoms are narrow but well-timbered. Salts, coal, and other mineral signs are common; the bluffs mostly consist of dark brown, yellow, and some white clay; some freestone also appears in places. The river now bears N. 20° E, 12 miles to a bluff on the left. At the start of this course, we ascended the hills, which are about 200 feet high, and traversed the plains for about 3 miles. However, finding the dry ravines too steep and numerous, we decided to go back to the river and travel through its bottoms and along the foot and sides of the bluffs. We reached the river again about 4 miles from the start of our last course and set up camp a little distance above on the starboard side in a bend among willow bushes that sheltered us from the strong northwesterly wind. It rained this evening, soaking us to the skin; the air was extremely cold. Just before we set up camp, Drewyer shot at a large brown bear across the river and wounded it badly, but it was too late to pursue. He also killed a bear and a beaver at our campsite, in addition to a very fine mule deer. We saw many buffalo, elk, wolves, and foxes today. The river bottoms form one immense garden of roses that are now in full bloom.
[Clark, June 4, 1805]
June 4th Tuesday 1805 Capt. Lewis & my Self each with a Small party of men Set out earlythose who accompanied Capt Lewis were G. Drewyer Serjt. Pryor, J Shields, P. Crusat J. B. de Page, R. Winser, went up the N. side of the N. fork. those who accompanied me were Serjt. Gass Jos. & Ruben Fields G. Shannon & my black man York, and we Set out to examine the South fork, our first Course was S. 25° W. 7 miles to the S. fork at a Spring, at which place the little river which falls into the N. fork is 100 yards distant only Seperated from the South fork by a narrow ridge. our course from thence S. 20° W. 8 miles to the river at an Island where we dined below a Small river falls in on the S E Side which heads in a mountain to the S. E about 20 miles. North of this place about 4 miles the little river brakes thro a high ridge into the open Leavel plain thro which we have passd. from the point, this plain is covered with low grass & prickley pear, emence number of Prarie dogs or barking Squirel are thro this plain—after eating we proceeded on N. 45° W. Struck the river at 3 miles 5, 9 & 13 miles at which place we encamped in an old Indian lodge made of Stiks and bark at the river near our camp we Saw two white Bear, one of them was nearly catching Joseph Fields who could not fire, as his gun was wet the bear was So near that it Struck his foot, and we were not in a Situation to give him assistance, a Clift of rocks Seperated us the bear got allarmed at our Shot & yells & took the river.—Some rain all the afternoon Saw Several Gangues of Buffalow at a distance in the open plains on each Side, Saw Mule deer antilopes & wolves—The river is rapid & Closely himed on one or the other Side with high bluffs, Crouded with Islands & graveley bars Containing but a Small quantity of timber on its bottoms & none on the high land.
June 4th, Tuesday, 1805. Capt. Lewis and I each took a small group of men and set out early. Those who joined Capt. Lewis were G. Drewyer, Sgt. Pryor, J. Shields, P. Crusat, J. B. de Page, and R. Winser. They went up the north side of the north fork. Those who came with me were Sgt. Gass, Jos. and Ruben Fields, G. Shannon, and my Black man York. We set out to explore the south fork. Our first direction was S. 25° W. for 7 miles to the south fork at a spring. At this spot, the small river that flows into the north fork is just 100 yards away, separated from the south fork by a narrow ridge. From there, we continued S. 20° W. for 8 miles to the river at an island where we had lunch. A small river enters from the southeast side, originating in a mountain about 20 miles to the southeast. About 4 miles north of this location, the small river breaks through a high ridge into the open, level plain that we have passed through. This plain is covered with low grass and prickly pear, and there are a huge number of prairie dogs or barking squirrels throughout. After eating, we continued on N. 45° W. and hit the river at distances of 3, 5, 9, and 13 miles, where we set up camp in an old Indian lodge made of sticks and bark. Near our camp, we saw two white bears; one got dangerously close to Joseph Fields, who couldn't shoot because his gun was wet. The bear was so close that it brushed his foot, and we couldn’t help him because a cliff of rocks separated us. The bear got spooked by our gunshots and yells and ran to the river. It rained most of the afternoon. We saw several herds of buffalo in the distance in the open plains on both sides, as well as mule deer, antelopes, and wolves. The river is fast-moving and flanked on either side by high bluffs, crowded with islands and gravel bars, containing very little timber on its bottomlands and none on the high ground.
[Lewis, June 5, 1805]
Wednesday June 5th 1805. This morning was cloudy and so could that I was obleged to have recourse to a blanket coat in order to keep myself comfortable altho walking. the rain continued during the greater part of last night. the wind hard from N. W. we set out at sunrise and proceded up the river eight miles on the course last taken yesterday evening, at the extremity of which a large creek falls in on the Stard. 25 yards. wide at it's entrance, some timber but no water, notwithstanding the rain; it's course upwards is N. E. it is astonishing what a quantity of water it takes to saturate the soil of this country, the earth of the plains are now opened in large crivices in many places and yet looks like a rich loam from the entrance of this Creek (which I called Lark C.) the river boar N. 50. W. 4 m. at the entrance of this creek the bluffs were very steep and approached the river so near on the Stard. side that we ascended the hills and passed through the plains; at the extremity of this course we returned to the river which then boar North 2 rues. from the same point, I discovered a lofty single mountain which appeard to be at a great distance, perhaps 80 or more miles it boar N. 52 W. from it's conic figure I called it tower Mountain. we now passed through the river bottoms to the extremity of the last course thence with the river S 60° W 11/2 m. S 10 W. 3 m N 50 W 11/2 at the extremity of which I again ascended the bluffs and took a course to a point of the Lard. bluffs of the river which boar West 10 m. the river making a deep bend to the south that is of at least five miles from the center of the chord line to the center of the bend. on this course we passed through the plains found the plains as yesterday extreemly leavel and beautifull, great quanties of Buffaloe, some wolves foxes and Antelopes seen. near the river the plain is cut by deep ravines in this plain and from one to nine miles from the river or any water, we saw the largest collection of the burrowing or barking squirrels that we had ever yet seen; we passed through a skirt of the territory of this community for about 7 miles. I saw a flock of the mountain cock, or a large species of heath hen with a long pointed tail which the Indians informed us were common to the Rockey Mountains, I sent Shields to kill one of them but he was obliged to fire a long distance at them and missed his aim. as we had not killed or eat anything today we each killed a burrowing squrrel as we passed them in order to make shure of our suppers. we again intersepted the river at the expiration of the last course or the lard. bluffs, from whence it now boar N 80° W. 2 mes. from this point saw some other lofty mountains to the N. W. of Tower Mtn. which boar N. 65°W. 80 or 100 mes. distant at the expiration of this course we killed five Elk and a blacktailed or mule deer and encamped on Stard. side of the river in a handsome well timbered bottom where there were several old stick lodges. in the forepart of the day there was but little timber in the river bottoms but the quantity is now greater than usual. the river is about 80 yds. wide with a strong steady courant and from 6 to 10 feet water. I had the burrowing squirrels roasted by way of experiment and found the flesh well flavored and tender; some of them were very fat.
Wednesday, June 5th, 1805. This morning was cloudy and so cold that I had to wear a blanket coat to stay comfortable while walking. The rain continued for most of last night, with a strong wind coming from the northwest. We set out at sunrise and traveled up the river for eight miles, following the same path we took yesterday evening. At the end of that stretch, a large creek flows into the river on the starboard side, measuring 25 yards wide at its entrance; there’s some timber but no water, despite the rain. Its course goes northeast. It’s amazing how much water it takes to soak the soil in this area; the earth in the plains has opened up in large cracks in many spots, yet it still looks like rich loam near the entrance of this creek (which I named Lark Creek). The river was heading north 50 degrees west for four miles; at the entrance of this creek, the bluffs were steep and came close to the river on the starboard side, so we climbed the hills and moved through the plains. At the end of this path, we returned to the river, which then flowed north 2 miles. From that point, I spotted a tall single mountain, which seemed to be far away—perhaps 80 miles or more—and it was heading north 52 degrees west. Due to its conical shape, I called it Tower Mountain. We then crossed through the river bottoms to the end of the last stretch, then followed the river south 60 degrees west for 1.5 miles, south 10 degrees west for 3 miles, and north 50 degrees west for 1.5 miles. At the end of that, I climbed the bluffs again and headed toward a point of the left bank of the river, which goes west for 10 miles, with the river making a deep bend to the south that is at least five miles from the center of the straight line to the center of the bend. During this course, we traveled through the plains, which were, like yesterday, extremely level and beautiful, with many buffalo, some wolves, foxes, and antelopes in sight. Near the river, the plain has deep ravines in it, and one to nine miles away from the river or any water, we saw the largest group of burrowing or barking squirrels we had ever encountered. We passed through a portion of this community’s territory for about seven miles. I spotted a flock of mountain cock, or a large type of heath hen with a long pointed tail, which the Indians told us were common in the Rocky Mountains. I sent Shields to hunt one, but he had to shoot from a long distance and missed. Since we hadn’t killed or eaten anything today, we each shot a burrowing squirrel as we passed to ensure we had dinner. We intersected the river again at the end of the last section, where it was now heading north 80 degrees west for 2 miles. From this point, I saw some other tall mountains to the northwest of Tower Mountain, which were heading north 65 degrees west, located 80 or 100 miles away. At the end of this course, we hunted five elk and a black-tailed or mule deer and set up camp on the starboard side of the river in a beautiful, well-timbered bottom where there were several old stick lodges. Earlier in the day, there was very little timber in the river bottoms, but the amount increased significantly. The river is about 80 yards wide with a strong, steady current and between 6 to 10 feet of water. I had the burrowing squirrels roasted as an experiment and found the meat well-flavored and tender; some of them were quite fatty.
[Clark, June 5, 1805]
June 5th Wednesday 1805 Some little rain & Snow last night the mountains to our S E. covered with Snow this morning air verry Cold & raining a little, we Saw 8 buffalow opposit, they made 2 attempts to Cross, the water being So Swift they Could not, about the time we were Setting out three white bear approached our Camp we killed the three & eate part of one & Set out & proceeded on N. 20° W 11 miles.—k the river at maney places in this distance to a ridge on the N. Side t m the top of which I could plainly See a mountain to the South & W. covered with Snow at a long distance, The mountains opposit to us to the S. E. is also Covered with Snow this morning.—a high ridge from those mountains approach the river on the S E Side forming Some Clifts of hard dark Stone.—From the ridge at which place I Struck the river last, I could ____ discover that the river run west of South a long distance, and has a Strong rapid Current, as this river Continued its width debth & rapidity and the Course west of South, going up further would be useless, I deturmined to return, I accordingly Set out, thro the plain on a Course N. 30° E on my return & Struck the little river at 20 miles passing thro a Leavel plain, at the little river we killed 2 buck Elk & dined on their marrow, proceeded on a few miles & Camped, haveing killed 2 deer which was verry fat, Some few drops of rain to day, the evening fair wind hard from the N. E. I Saw great numbers of Elk & white tale deer, Some beaver, antelope mule deer & wolves & one bear on this little river marked my name in a tree N. Side near the ridge where the little river brakes thro
June 5th, Wednesday, 1805 We had some light rain and snow last night. This morning, the mountains to our southeast were covered in snow, and the air is very cold with a bit of rain. We saw 8 buffalo across the river; they made 2 attempts to cross, but the water was too swift for them. Just as we were getting ready to leave, three white bears approached our camp. We killed all three, ate part of one, and then set out, heading N. 20° W for 11 miles. In this stretch, the river appeared in many places leading to a ridge on the north side. From the top of that ridge, I could clearly see a mountain to the south and west covered in snow, even from a long distance. The mountains across from us to the southeast were also snow-covered this morning. A high ridge from those mountains comes down to the river on the southeast side, creating some cliffs of hard, dark stone. From the last ridge where I reached the river, I could clearly see that it flowed west of south for a long distance and had a strong, rapid current. Since the river maintained its width, depth, and rapid flow while continuing to head west of south, going further upstream would be pointless, so I decided to turn back. I set out again through the plain, heading N. 30° E on my way back, and I reached the little river after 20 miles, passing through a level plain. At the little river, we killed 2 buck elk and dined on their marrow. After continuing a few more miles, we camped after having killed 2 very fat deer. There were a few drops of rain today, but the evening is clear and windy, coming hard from the northeast. I saw a lot of elk and white-tailed deer, some beavers, antelope, mule deer, wolves, and one bear near this little river. I marked my name on a tree on the north side, close to the ridge where the little river breaks through.
[Lewis, June 6, 1805]
Thursday June 6th 1805. I now became well convinced that this branch of the Missouri had it's direction too much to the North for our rout to the Pacific, and therefore determined to return the next day after taking an observation of the sun's Meridian Altitude in order to fix the latitude of the place. The forepart of the last evening was fair but in the latter part of the night clouded up and contnued so with short intervals of sunshine untill a little before noon when the whole horizon was overcast, and I of course disappointed in making the observation which I much wished. I had sent Sergt. Pryor and Windsor early this morning with orders to procede up the river to some commanding eminence and take it's bearing as far as possible. in the mean time the four others and myself were busily engaged in making two rafts on which we purposed descending the river; we had just completed this work when Sergt. Pryor and Windsor returned, it being about noon; they reported that they had proceded from hence S 70 W. 6 m. to the summit of a commanding eminence from whence the river on their left was about 21/2 miles distant; that a point of it's Lard. bluff, which was visible boar S 80 W. distant about 15 ms.; that the river on their left bent gradually arround to this point, and from thence seemed to run Northwardly. we now took dinner and embarcked with our plunder and five Elk's skins on the rafts but were soon convinced that this mode of navigation was hazerdous particularly with those rafts they being too small and slender. we wet a part of our baggage and were near loosing one of our guns; I therefore determined to abandon the rafts and return as we had come, by land. I regreted much being obliged to leave my Elk's skins, which I wanted to assist in forming my leather boat; those we had prepared at Fort Mandan being injured in such manner that they would not answer. we again swung our packs and took our way through the open plains for about 12 mes. when we struck the river; the wind blew a storm from N. E. accompanyed by frequent showers of rain; we were wet and very could. continued our rout down the river only a few miles before the Abruptness of the clifts and their near approach to the river compelled us take the plains and once more face the storm; here we boar reather too much to the North and it was late in the evening before we reached the river, in our way we killed two buffaloe and took with us as much of the flesh as served us that night, and a part of the next day. we encamped a little below the entrance of the large dry Creek called Lark C. having traveled abut 25 mes. since noon. it continues to rain and we have no shelter, an uncomfortable nights rest is the natural consequence.
Thursday, June 6, 1805. I became convinced that this branch of the Missouri was heading too far north for our route to the Pacific, so I decided to head back the next day after taking a measurement of the sun's Meridian Altitude to determine the latitude of our location. The early part of last evening was clear, but later in the night it became cloudy and stayed that way with brief moments of sunshine until just before noon when the entire horizon was overcast, leaving me disappointed that I couldn't make the observation I wanted. I had sent Sergeant Pryor and Windsor early this morning with orders to go up the river to a high point and take its bearing as far as they could. Meanwhile, the other four of us and I were busy building two rafts to float down the river; we had just finished this task when Sergeant Pryor and Windsor returned around noon. They reported that they had traveled S 70 W for 6 miles to the top of a high point, from where the river on their left was about 2.5 miles away; that a section of its left bank, which was visible, was at S 80 W, about 15 miles away; that the river to the left gradually curved around to this point and then seemed to flow northward. We had dinner and loaded our belongings and five elk skins onto the rafts but soon realized that this way of traveling was risky, especially with the rafts being too small and fragile. Some of our gear got wet, and we almost lost one of our guns; so I decided to abandon the rafts and return by land as we came. I was very sorry to leave my elk skins behind, which I needed to help make my leather boat since the ones we prepared at Fort Mandan were damaged and unusable. We packed our gear again and traveled through the open plains for about 12 miles until we reached the river. The wind blew a fierce storm from the northeast, accompanied by frequent rain showers; we were soaked and very cold. We continued south down the river for just a few miles before the steep cliffs came too close to the river, forcing us to move back to the plains and face the storm again; here we tilted a bit too far north, and it was late evening before we reached the river again. On the way, we hunted two buffalo and took as much meat as we could for that night and part of the next day. We set up camp just below the entrance of the large dry creek called Lark Creek after covering about 25 miles since noon. It continued to rain, and we had no shelter, resulting in an uncomfortable night’s rest.
[Clark, June 6, 1805]
June 6th Thursday 1805 a Cloudy Cold raw day wind hard from the N. E. we Set out early & traveled down the little river which was imedeately in our Course on this river we killed 7 Deer for their Skins the bottoms of this little river is in everry respect except in extent like the large bottoms of the Missouri below the forks containing a great perpotion of a kind of Cotton wood with a leaf resembling a wild Cherry-. I also observed wild Tanzey on this little river in great quantities, we halted at 12 oClock and eate a part of a fat Buck, after Dinner we assended the Plain at which time it began to rain and Continued all day, at 5 oClock we arrived at our Camp on the point, where I expected to meet Capt Lewis- he did not return this evening.—my Self and party much fatigued haveing walked Constantly as hard as we Could march over a Dry hard plain, dcending & assending the Steep river hills & gullies, in my absence the party had killed an Elk & 2 buffalow, I Sent out for the meat a part of which was brought in—nothing remarkable had transpired at camp in my absence
June 6th, Thursday, 1805—a cloudy, cold, raw day with a strong wind from the northeast. We set out early and traveled down the small river that was directly in our path. On this river, we killed seven deer for their skins. The lowlands of this river, in every way except for size, resemble the large lowlands of the Missouri below the forks, containing a great proportion of a type of cottonwood with leaves like a wild cherry. I also noticed a large amount of wild tansy along this river. We stopped at 12 o'clock and ate some of a fat buck. After lunch, we ascended the plain, at which point it started to rain and continued all day. At 5 o'clock, we arrived at our camp on the point, where I expected to meet Captain Lewis—he did not return this evening. My party and I were very tired, having walked as hard as we could march over a dry, hard plain, descending and ascending the steep river hills and gullies. While I was away, the party had killed an elk and two buffalo, and I sent out for the meat, some of which was brought back. Nothing notable had happened at camp in my absence.
[Lewis, June 7, 1805]
Friday June 7th 1805. It continued to rain almost without intermission last night and as I expected we had a most disagreable and wrestless night. our camp possessing no allurements, we left our watery beads at an early hour and continued our rout down the river. it still continues to rain the wind hard from N. E. and could. the grownd remarkably slipry, insomuch that we were unable to walk on the sides of the bluffs where we had passed as we ascended the river. notwithstanding the rain that has now fallen the earth of these bluffs is not wet to a greater debth than 2 inches; in it's present state it is precisely like walking over frozan grownd which is thawed to small debth and slips equally as bad. this clay not only appears to require more water to saturate it as I before observed than any earth I ever observed but when saturated it appears on the other hand to yeald it's moisture with equal difficulty. In passing along the face of one of these bluffs today I sliped at a narrow pass of about 30 yards in length and but for a quick and fortunate recovery by means of my espontoon I should been precipitated into the river down a craggy pricipice of about ninety feet. I had scarcely reached a place on which I could stand with tolerable safety even with the assistance of my espontoon before I heard a voice behind me cry out god god Capt. what shall I do on turning about I found it was Windsor who had sliped and fallen abut the center of this narrow pass and was lying prostrate on his belley, with his wright hand arm and leg over the precipice while he was holding on with the left arm and foot as well as he could which appeared to be with much difficulty. I discovered his danger and the trepedation which he was in gave me still further concern for I expected every instant to see him loose his strength and slip off; altho much allarmed at his situation I disguised my feelings and spoke very calmly to him and assured him that he was in no kind of danger, to take the knife out of his belt behind him with his wright hand and dig a hole with it in the face of the bank to receive his wright foot which he did and then raised himself to his knees; I then directed him to take off his mockersons and to come forward on his hands and knees holding the knife in one hand and the gun in the other this he happily effected and escaped. those who were some little distance bhind returned by my orders and waded the river at the foot of the bluff where the water was breast deep. it was useless we knew to attempt the plains on this part of the river in consequence of the numerous steep ravines which intersected and which were quite as had as the river bluffs. we therefore continued our rout down the river sometimes in the mud and water of the bottom lands, at others in the river to our breasts and when the water became so deep that we could not wade we cut footsteps in the face of the steep bluffs with our knives and proceded. we continued our disagreeable march through the rain mud and water untill late in the evening having traveled only about 18 miles, and encamped in an old Indian stick lodge which afforded us a dry and comfortable shelter. during the day we had killed six deer some of them in very good order altho none of them had yet entirely discarded their winter coats. we had reserved and brought with us a good supply of the best peices; we roasted and eat a hearty supper of our venison not having taisted a mosel before during the day; I now laid myself down on some willow boughs to a comfortable nights rest, and felt indeed as if I was fully repaid for the toil and pain of the day, so much will a good shelter, a dry bed, and comfortable supper revive the sperits of the waryed, wet and hungry traveler.
Friday, June 7, 1805. It rained almost continuously last night, and just as I expected, we had a really unpleasant and restless night. With our camp offering no comforts, we left our soggy spot early and continued our route down the river. It’s still raining, the wind blowing hard from the northeast, and it’s cold. The ground is incredibly slippery, making it impossible to walk on the sides of the bluffs we climbed earlier. Despite the rain that has fallen, the soil on these bluffs isn’t wet more than about 2 inches deep; right now, it feels just like walking on frozen ground that has thawed a bit, but it’s just as slippery. This clay seems to need more water to soak through than any soil I’ve ever seen and, when wet, it appears to hold onto its moisture just as stubbornly. While passing along the edge of one of these bluffs today, I slipped in a narrow stretch about 30 yards long, and if I hadn’t quickly rebalanced myself using my espontoon, I would have fallen into the river from a rocky cliff about ninety feet high. I hardly found a spot where I could stand safely, even with my espontoon, when I heard someone behind me shout, “Oh God, Captain, what should I do?” Turning around, I saw it was Windsor, who had slipped and fallen near the center of the narrow stretch, lying on his stomach with his right arm and leg dangling over the edge while he struggled to hold on with his left arm and foot. I realized he was in serious danger, and the fear he was feeling added to my concern because I thought any moment he might lose his grip and fall. Although I was alarmed by his situation, I managed to hide my emotions and spoke to him calmly, assuring him he was safe and instructing him to take the knife out of his belt with his right hand and dig a hole in the bank to support his right foot. He did this and managed to get himself up to his knees. Next, I told him to remove his moccasins and move forward on his hands and knees, holding the knife in one hand and the gun in the other. He successfully carried out my instructions and escaped. Those who were a little further back returned upon my orders and waded through the river at the bottom of the bluff where the water was chest deep. We knew it would be pointless to try to cross the plains at this part of the river due to the many steep ravines that were just as bad as the river bluffs. So, we continued our route down the river, sometimes trudging through the muddy bottomlands, other times in water up to our chests, and when the water got too deep to wade, we cut footholds into the steep bluffs with our knives and proceeded. We endured our miserable march through rain, mud, and water until late in the evening, having only traveled about 18 miles, and set up camp in an old Indian stick lodge that offered us dry and comfortable shelter. During the day, we had killed six deer, some in pretty good condition, though none had completely shed their winter coats yet. We saved some of the best cuts and brought them with us; we roasted and enjoyed a hearty supper of venison since we hadn’t eaten anything throughout the day. I laid down on some willow branches for a restful night, truly feeling that I was well compensated for the day’s toil and hardship—nothing revives the spirits of a weary, wet, and hungry traveler like a good shelter, a dry bed, and a comforting meal.
[Clark, June 7, 1805]
June 7th Friday 1805 rained moderately all the last night and Continus this morning, the wind from the S. W, off the mountains, The Themometer Stood at 40° above 0, I allow Several men to hunt a Short time to day, the rain Continue moderately all day the bottom verry muddey 2 buffalow an Elk & Deer killed to day—Capt. Lewis not returned yet. river falling
June 7th, Friday, 1805: It rained moderately all night and continued this morning, with the wind coming from the southwest off the mountains. The thermometer stood at 40° Fahrenheit. I let several men hunt for a short time today, as the rain continued moderately all day, making the ground very muddy. Two buffalo, an elk, and a deer were killed today. Captain Lewis has not returned yet. The river is falling.
[Lewis, June 8, 1805]
Saturday June 8th 1805 It continued to rain moderately all last night this morning was cloudy untill about ten oClock when it cleared off and became a fine day. we breakfasted and set out about sunrise and continued our rout down the river bottoms through the mud and water as yesterday, tho the road was somewhat better than yesterday and we were not so often compelled to wade in the river. we passed some dangerous and difficult bluffs. The river bottoms affording all the timber which is to be seen in the country they are filled with innumerable litle birds that resort thither either for shelter or to build their nests. when sun began to shine today these birds appeared to be very gay and sung most inchantingly; I observed among them the brown thrush, Robbin, turtle dove, linnit goaldfinch, the large and small blackbird, wren and several other birds of less note. some of the inhabitants of the praries also take reffuge in these woods at night or from a storm. The whole of my party to a man except myself were fully peswaided that this river was the Missouri, but being fully of opinion that it was neither the main stream or that which it would be advisable for us to take, I determined to give it a name and in honour of Miss Maria W-d. called it Maria's River. it is true that the hue of the waters of this turbulent and troubled stream but illy comport with the pure celestial virtues and amiable qualifications of that lovely fair one; but on the other hand it is a noble river; one destined to become in my opinion an object of contention between the two great powers of America and Great Britin with rispect to the adjustment of the North westwardly boundary of the former; and that it will become one of the most interesting brances of the Missouri in a commercial point of view, I have but little doubt, as it abounds with anamals of the fur kind, and most probably furnishes a safe and direct communication to that productive country of valuable furs exclusively enjoyed at present by the subjects of his Britanic Majesty; in adition to which it passes through a rich fertile and one of the most beatifully picteresque countries that I ever beheld, through the wide expance of which, innumerable herds of living anamals are seen, it's borders garnished with one continued garden of roses, while it's lofty and open forrests, are the habitation of miriads of the feathered tribes who salute the ear of the passing traveler with their wild and simple, yet sweet and cheerfull melody.—I arrived at camp about 5 OClock in the evening much fatiegued, where I found Capt. Clark and the ballance of the party waiting our return with some anxiety for our safety having been absent near two days longer than we had engaged to return. on our way to camp we had killed 4 deer and two Antelopes; the skins of which as well as those we killed while on the rout we brought with us. Maria's river may be stated generally from sixty to a hundred yards wide, with a strong and steady current and possessing 5 feet water in the most sholly parts.
Saturday, June 8th, 1805. It rained moderately all night, and this morning was cloudy until about ten o'clock when it cleared up and turned into a beautiful day. We had breakfast and set out around sunrise, continuing our journey down the river bottoms through the mud and water, just like yesterday, though the path was a bit better, and we didn't have to wade in the river as often. We passed some dangerous and challenging bluffs. The river bottoms provided all the timber visible in the area and were filled with countless little birds that gathered there for shelter or to build their nests. When the sun began to shine today, these birds seemed very cheerful and sang most enchantingly; I noticed among them the brown thrush, robin, turtle dove, linnet, goldfinch, large and small blackbirds, wren, and several other lesser-known birds. Some of the prairie residents also take refuge in these woods at night or during storms. Everyone in my party, except me, was convinced that this river was the Missouri, but since I believed it wasn’t the main stream and not the best route for us, I decided to give it a name in honor of Miss Maria W-d and called it Maria's River. It's true that the color of the waters of this turbulent stream doesn't quite match the pure celestial virtues and charming qualities of that lovely lady; however, on the other hand, it is a magnificent river, one that I believe will become a point of contention between the two major powers, America and Great Britain, regarding the adjustment of the northwestern boundary of the former. I have no doubt it will become one of the most interesting branches of the Missouri from a commercial perspective, as it is rich in fur-bearing animals and likely provides a safe and direct route to the valuable fur-rich lands currently enjoyed exclusively by British subjects. Additionally, it flows through a rich, fertile, and one of the most beautifully picturesque regions I've ever seen, where countless herds of living animals roam, its borders decorated with a continuous garden of roses, and its tall, open forests are home to myriads of birds that greet the ear of passing travelers with their wild, simple, yet sweet and cheerful melodies. I arrived at camp around 5 o'clock in the evening, quite fatigued, where I found Captain Clark and the rest of the party anxiously waiting for our return, as we had been gone nearly two days longer than we promised. On our way back to camp, we had hunted 4 deer and 2 antelope; we brought their skins with us, as well as those we killed along the way. Maria's River can generally be described as being sixty to a hundred yards wide, with a strong and steady current and about 5 feet of water in the shallowest areas.
As the incidents which occurred Capt. C. during his rout will be more fully and satisfactoryley expressed by himself I here insert a copy of his journal during the days we wer seperated.-
As the events that happened to Capt. C. during his journey will be better and more clearly explained by him, I’m including a copy of his journal from the days we were apart.-
I now gave myself this evening to rest from my labours, took a drink of grog and gave the men who had accompanyed me each a dram. Capt. Clark ploted the courses of the two rivers as far as we had ascended them. I now began more than ever to suspect the varacity of Mr. Fidler or the correctness of his instruments. for I see that Arrasmith in his late map of N. America has laid down a remarkable mountain in the chain of the Rocky mountains called the tooth nearly as far South as Latitude 45°, and this is said to be from the discoveries of Mr. Fidler? we are now within a hundred miles of the Rocky Mountains, and I find from my observation of the 3rd Inst that the latitude of this place is 47° 24' 12.8". the river must therefore turn much to the South, between this and the rocky Mountain to have permitted Mr. Fidler to have passed along the Eastern border of these mountains as far S. as nearly 45° without even seeing it. but from hence as far as Capt. C. had ascended the S. fork or Missouri being the distance of 55 miles it's course is S. 29°W. and it still appeared to bear considerably to the W. of South as far as he could see it. I think therefore that we shall find that the Missouri enters the rocky mountains to the North of 45°—we did take the liberty of placing his discoveries or at least the Southern extremity of them about a degree further N. in the sketh which we sent on to the government this spring mearly from the Indian information of the bearing from Fort Mandan of the entrance of the Missouri into the Rocky Mountains, and I reather suspect that actual observation will take him at least one other degree further North. The general Course of Maria's river from hence to the extremity of the last course taken by Sergt. pryor is N 69° W. 59 mes.
I decided to take the evening off to relax from my work, had a drink of grog, and gave each of the guys who accompanied me a shot. Capt. Clark mapped out the routes of the two rivers as far as we had traveled up them. I'm starting to doubt the accuracy of Mr. Fidler or the reliability of his instruments. I noticed that Arrasmith, in his recent map of North America, marked a significant mountain in the Rocky Mountains called the Tooth located nearly as far south as Latitude 45°, and this is supposedly based on Mr. Fidler's findings? We are now within a hundred miles of the Rocky Mountains, and from my observations on the 3rd, I found that the latitude of this location is 47° 24' 12.8". Therefore, the river must turn quite a bit south between here and the Rocky Mountains to allow Mr. Fidler to travel along the eastern edge of these mountains as far south as nearly 45° without even seeing them. However, as far as Capt. C. ascended the south fork or Missouri, it was about 55 miles, and its course is S. 29°W. It still seemed to veer significantly west of south as far as he could see. So, I believe we will find that the Missouri enters the Rocky Mountains north of 45°. We felt it was reasonable to place his discoveries, or at least the southernmost point of them, about a degree further north in the sketch we sent to the government this spring, purely based on the information from the Indians about the Missouri's entrance into the Rocky Mountains from Fort Mandan, and I suspect that actual observations will push it at least another degree north. The general course of Maria's River from here to the last point traveled by Sergt. Pryor is N 69° W, 59 miles.
[Clark, June 8, 1805]
June 8th Saturday 1805 rained moderately all the last night & Some this morning untill 10 oClock, I am Some what uneasy for Capt. Lewis & party as days has now passed the time he was to have returned, I had all the arms put in order and permited Severall men to hunt, aired and dried our Stores &c. The rivers at this point has fallen 6 Inches Sinc our arrival, at 10 oClock cleared away and became fair—the wind all the morning from the S. W. & hard—The water of the South fork is of a redish brown colour this morning the other river of a whitish colour as usual-The mountains to the South Covered with Snow. Wind Shifted to the N E in the evening, about 5 oClock Capt. Lewis arrived with the party much fatigued, and inform'd me that he had assended the river about 60 miles by Land and that the river had a bold current of about 80 or 100 yards wide the bottoms of Gravel & mud, and may be estimated at 5 feet water in Sholest parts
June 8th, Saturday, 1805: It rained moderately all night and some this morning until 10 o'clock. I'm somewhat anxious about Capt. Lewis and his group since it's been several days past when he was supposed to return. I had all the weapons checked and allowed several men to go hunt. We aired and dried our supplies, etc. The river at this point has dropped 6 inches since we arrived. By 10 o'clock, the skies cleared and it became fair—the wind had been strong from the southwest all morning. The water in the South Fork is a reddish-brown color this morning, while the other river is its usual whitish color. The mountains to the south are covered with snow. The wind shifted to the northeast in the evening. Around 5 o'clock, Capt. Lewis arrived with the group, looking quite tired, and informed me that he had traveled up the river about 60 miles by land. He described the river as having a strong current, about 80 to 100 yards wide, with gravel and mud bottoms, and estimated the shallowest parts to be about 5 feet deep.
Some rain in the evening. the left hand fork rose a little.
[Lewis, June 9, 1805]
Sunday June 9th 1805. We determined to deposite at this place the large red perogue all the heavy baggage which we could possibly do without and some provision, salt, tools powder and Lead &c with a view to lighten our vessels and at the same time to strengthen their crews by means of the seven hands who have been heretofore employd. in navigating the red perogue; accordingly we set some hands to diging a hole or cellar for the reception of our stores. these holes in the ground or deposits are called by the engages cashes; on enquiry I found that Cruzatte was well acquainted this business and therefore left the management of it intirely to him. today we examined our maps, and compared the information derived as well from them as from the Indians and fully settled in our minds the propryety of addopting the South fork for the Missouri, as that which it would be most expedient for us to take. The information of Mr. Fidler incorrect as it is strongly argued the necessity of taking the South fork, for if he has been along the Eastern side of the rocky mountains as far as even Latd. 47°, which I think fully as far south as he ever was in that direction, and saw only small rivulets making down from those mountains the presumption is very strong that those little streams do not penetrate the rocky Mountains to such distance as would afford rational grownds for a conjecture that they had their sources near any navigable branch of the Columbia, and if he has seen those rivulets as far south as 47° they are most probably the waters of some Nothern branch of the Missouri or South fork probably the river called by the Indians Medicine River; we therefore cannot hope by going Northwardly of this place being already in Latititude 47° 24" to find a stream between this place and the Saskashawan which dose penetrate the Rocky mountains, and which agreeably to the information of the Indians with rispect to the Missouri, dose possess a navigable curent some distance in those mountains. The Indian information also argued strongly in favour of the South fork. they informed us that the water of the Missouri was nearly transparent at the great falls, this is the case with the water of the South fork; that the falls lay a little to the South of sunset from them; this is also brobable as we are only a few minutes North of Fort Mandan and the South fork bears considerably South from hence to the Mountains; that the falls are below the rocky mountains and near the Nothern termineation of one range of those mountains. a range of mountains which apear behind the S. Mountains and which appear to terminate S. W. from this place and on this side of the unbroken chain of the Rocky Mountains gives us hope that this part of their information is also correct, and there is sufficient distance between this and the mountains for many and I fear for us much too many falls. another impression on my mind is that if the Indians had passed any stream as large as the South fork on their way to the Missouri that they would not have omitted mentioning it; and the South fork from it's size and complexion of it's waters must enter the Ry. Mountains and in my opinion penetrates them to a great distance, or els whence such an immence body of water as it discharges; it cannot procede from the dry plains to the N. W. of the Yellow Stone river on the East side of the Rocky Mountains for those numerous large dry channels which we witnessed on that side as we ascended the Missouri forbid such a conjecture; and that it should take it's sourses to the N. W. under those mountains the travels of Mr. Fidler fobid us to beleive. Those ideas as they occurred to me I indevoured to impress on the minds of the party all of whom except Capt. C. being still firm in the beleif that the N. Fork was the Missouri and that which we ought to take; they said very cheerfully that they were ready to follow us any wher we thought proper to direct but that they still thought that the other was the river and that they were affraid that the South fork would soon termineate in the mountains and leave us at a great distance from the Columbia. Cruzatte who had been an old Missouri navigator and who from his integrity knowledge and skill as a waterman had acquired the confidence of every individual of the party declared it as his opinion that the N. fork was the true genuine Missouri and could be no other. finding them so determined in this beleif, and wishing that if we were in an error to be able to detect it and rectify it as soon as possible it was agreed between Capt. C. and myself that one of us should set out with a small party by land up the South fork and continue our rout up it untill we found the falls or reached the snowy Mountains by which means we should be enabled to determine this question prety accurately. this expedition I prefered undertaking as Capt. C best waterman &c. and determined to set out the day after tomorrow; I wished to make some further observations at this place, and as we had determined to leave our blacksmith's bellows and tools here it was necessary to repare some of our arms, and particularly my Airgun the main spring of which was broken, before we left this place. these and some other preperations will necessarily detain us two perhaps three days. I felt myself very unwell this morning and took a portion of salts from which I feel much releif this evening. The cash being completed I walked to it and examined it's construction. it is in a high plain about 40 yards distant from a steep bluff of the South branch on it's nothern side; the situation a dry one which is always necessary. a place being fixed on for a cash, a circle abut 20 inches in diameter is first discribed, the terf or sod of this circle is carefully removed, being taken out as entire as possible in order that it may be replaced in the same situation when the chash is filled and secured. this circular hole is then sunk perpendicularly to the debth of one foot, if the ground be not firm somewhat deeper. they then begin to work it out wider as they proceed downwards untill they get it about six or seven feet deep giving it nearly the shape of the kettle or lower part of a large still. it's bottom is also somewhat sunk in the center. the dementions of the cash is in proportion to the quantity of articles intended to be deposited. as the earth is dug it is handed up in a vessel and carefully laid on a skin or cloth and then carryed to some place where it can be thrown in such manner as to conseal it usually into some runing stream wher it is washed away and leaves no traces which might lead to the discovery of the cash. before the goods are deposited they must be well dryed; a parsel of small dry sticks are then collected and with them a floor is maid of three or four inches thick which is then covered with some dry hay or a raw hide well dryed; on this the articles are deposited, taking care to keep them from touching the walls by putting other dry sticks between as you stoe away the merchandize, when nearly full the goods are covered with a skin and earth thrown in and well ramed untill with the addition of the turf furst removed the whole is on a level with the serface of the ground. in this manner dryed skins or merchandize will keep perfectly sound for several years. the traders of the Missouri, particularly those engaged in the trade with the Siouxs are obliged to have frequent recourse to this method in order to avoyd being robed. most of the men are busily engaged dressing skins for cloathing. In the evening Cruzatte gave us some music on the violin and the men passed the evening in dancing singing &c and were extreemly cheerfull.-
Sunday, June 9th, 1805. We decided to leave the large red canoe here along with all the heavy baggage we could do without, as well as some provisions, salt, tools, powder, and lead, to lighten our vessels and strengthen their crews by utilizing the seven men who had been navigating the red canoe. So, we had some people start digging a hole or cellar for our supplies. These ground holes or deposits are called "caches" by the crew; upon inquiry, I found that Cruzatte was well-versed in this task and therefore left the management entirely to him. Today we reviewed our maps and compared the information we gathered from them and the Indians. We fully convinced ourselves of the necessity of taking the South fork of the Missouri, as it was the most practical option for us. Mr. Fidler’s information, while incorrect, strongly emphasized the importance of taking the South fork. If he ventured along the Eastern side of the Rocky Mountains as far as latitude 47°, which I believe is about as far south as he traveled in that direction, and saw only small streams flowing from those mountains, it's a strong assumption that those tiny rivers don't go into the Rocky Mountains far enough to suggest they originated near any navigable branch of the Columbia. If he saw those streams as far south as 47°, they are likely part of a northern branch of the Missouri or the South fork, possibly the river the Indians call Medicine River. Therefore, we can't expect to find a river between this place and the Saskatchewan that penetrates the Rocky Mountains, especially since we are already at latitude 47° 24". According to the Indians regarding the Missouri, it has a navigable current extending some distance into those mountains. The Indian information also strongly supported the South fork. They told us that the water of the Missouri was nearly clear at the Great Falls, which is also the case with the South fork; that the falls are a bit south of sunset from their location; this seems plausible since we are only a few minutes north of Fort Mandan, and the South fork flows considerably south from here to the mountains; that the falls are below the Rocky Mountains and near the northern end of one range of those mountains, a range that appears behind the South Mountains and seems to end southwest from here and on this side of the unbroken chain of the Rocky Mountains gives us hope that this part of their information is also accurate. There’s enough distance between this location and the mountains for many— and I fear, perhaps too many—falls. Another thought that crossed my mind is that if the Indians had encountered any stream as large as the South fork on their way to the Missouri, they certainly would have mentioned it. The South fork, due to its size and water composition, must flow into the Rocky Mountains and likely penetrates them quite deeply, or else where does such a vast volume of water come from? It cannot originate from the dry plains northwest of the Yellowstone River on the eastern side of the Rocky Mountains because those numerous dry channels we observed as we ascended the Missouri rule that out. The idea of it flowing northwest beneath those mountains is countered by Mr. Fidler’s travels. As these ideas came to me, I tried to impress them on the minds of the party, all of whom, except Captain C., remained convinced that the North Fork was the Missouri and the route we should take. They cheerfully said they were ready to follow us anywhere we chose to lead but still thought that the other was the true river and were worried the South fork would soon end in the mountains, leaving us far from the Columbia. Cruzatte, who was an experienced Missouri navigator and had earned the trust of every member of the party with his reliability, knowledge, and skill as a waterman, asserted that the North fork was the genuine Missouri and could be nothing else. Seeing their strong conviction in this belief, and wanting to identify and correct any potential error as soon as possible, Captain C. and I agreed that one of us should set out with a small group overland up the South fork and follow it until we found the falls or reached the snowy mountains, which would allow us to accurately determine this question. I preferred to take on this expedition as Captain C. was our best waterman, and we planned to set out the day after tomorrow. I wanted to make a few more observations here, and since we decided to leave our blacksmith's bellows and tools, it was necessary to repair some of our weapons, especially my airgun, which had a broken mainspring, before departing. These and some other preparations will likely keep us here for two or possibly three days. I felt quite unwell this morning and took a dose of salts, which gave me much relief by this evening. With the cache completed, I walked over to check its construction. It is located on a high plain about 40 yards from a steep bluff on the northern side of the South branch; the location is dry, which is always important. Once a spot is chosen for a cache, a circle about 20 inches in diameter is first outlined, and the turf or sod in this circle is carefully removed, kept intact as much as possible so it can be replaced after the cache is filled and secured. This circular hole is then dug straight down to a depth of one foot, or deeper if the ground isn’t firm. They then widen it as they continue down until it’s about six or seven feet deep, giving it a shape similar to the bottom of a large kettle. The bottom is also slightly recessed in the center. The dimensions of the cache are proportionate to the quantity of items intended to be stored. As they dig, the earth is placed in a vessel, carefully laid on a skin or cloth, and then carried to a spot where it can be disposed of in such a way as to conceal it—typically dumping it into a running stream where it is washed away without leaving any evidence that could lead to discovering the cache. Before depositing the goods, they must be thoroughly dried; a bunch of small dry sticks are then gathered and used to create a floor about three or four inches thick, which is then covered with some dry hay or well-dried rawhide. On this, the items are placed, ensuring they don't touch the walls by placing other dry sticks between them while organizing the merchandise. When nearly full, the goods are covered with a skin, and dirt is thrown in and packed down until, with the addition of the turf removed earlier, the entire thing is level with the ground surface. This way, dried skins or merchandise can remain in perfect condition for several years. Traders from Missouri, particularly those dealing with the Sioux, often have to resort to this method to avoid being robbed. Most of the men are busy preparing skins for clothing. In the evening, Cruzatte played some music on the violin, and the men spent the evening dancing, singing, and being extremely cheerful.
[Clark, June 9, 1805]
June 9th Sunday a fair morning the wind hard from the S. W. the river during the night fell 1 Inch, we conclude to burry a few of our heavy articles, Some Powder & Lead provisions & a fiw Tools, in case of accident and leave one perogue at this place, and as Soon as those things are accomplished to assend the South fork, which appears to be more in our Course than the N. fork the Genl. Course of the South fork for 35 miles is S. 29° W.—that of the N. fork is N. 69° W. for 59 miles, and as we are North of Fort mandan it is probable the most Southerley fork is the best for us.—Capt. Lewis a little unwell to day & take Salts &c. Send out 7 men to make a cache or hole to burry the Stores, air out Cloathes &c. &c. finish'd the cache or Seller &c. the men all engaged dressing Skins for their clothes, in the evening the party amused themselves danceing and Singing Songes in the most Social manner. had a meridian altitude which gave 47° 24' 29" took some Luner observations which gave for Longitude ____ variation 151/2° East
June 9th, Sunday: a nice morning with a strong wind from the southwest. The river fell 1 inch overnight. We decided to bury a few of our heavy items, including some powder, lead, provisions, and a few tools, just in case of an accident. We’ll leave one canoe here, and as soon as we finish that, we’ll head up the South Fork, which seems to be a better route than the North Fork. The general course of the South Fork for 35 miles is S. 29° W., while the North Fork goes N. 69° W. for 59 miles. Since we are north of Fort Mandan, it’s likely that the southernmost fork is the best option for us. Captain Lewis is feeling a bit unwell today and took some salts, etc. I sent out 7 men to dig a hole to bury our supplies and air out our clothes, etc. They finished the cache or cellar. The men were all busy dressing skins for their clothing. In the evening, the group had fun dancing and singing songs in a very social way. I got a meridian altitude reading that gave 47° 24' 29" and took some lunar observations that indicated a longitude of ____ with a variation of 15.5° East.
[Lewis, June 10, 1805]
Monday June 10th 1805. The day being fair and fine we dryed all our baggage and merchandize. Shields renewed the main Spring of my air gun we have been much indebted to the ingenuity of this man on many occasions; without having served any regular apprenticeship to any trade, he makes his own tools principally and works extreemly well in either wood or metal, and in this way has been extreenely servicable to us, as well as being a good hunter and an excellent waterman. in order to guard against accedents we thout it well to conceal some ammunicion here and accordingly buryed a tin cannester of 4 lbs. of powder and an adequate quantity of lead near our tent; a cannester of 6 lbs. lead and an ax in a thicket up the S. Fork three hundred yards distant from the point. we concluded that we still could spare more amunition for this deposit Capt. Clark was therefore to make a further deposit in the morning, in addition to one Keg of 20 lbs. and an adequate proportion of lead which had been laid by to be buryed in the large Cash. we now scelected the articles to be deposited in this cash which consisted of 2 best falling axes, one auger, a set of plains, some files, blacksmiths bellowses and hammers Stake tongs &c. 1 Keg of flour, 2 Kegs of parched meal, 2 Kegs of Pork, 1 Keg of salt, some chissels, a cooper's Howel, some tin cups, 2 Musquets, 3 brown bear skins, beaver skins, horns of the bighorned anamal, a part of the men's robes clothing and all their superfluous baggage of every discription, and beaver traps.—we drew up the red perogue into the middle of a small Island at the entrance of Maria's river, and secured and made her fast to the trees to prevent the high floods from carrying her off put my brand on several trees standing near her, and covered her with brush to shelter her from the effects of the sun. At 3 P.M. we had a hard wind from the S. W. which continued about an hour attended with thunder and rain. as soon as the shower had passed over we drew out our canoes, corked, repared and loaded them. I still feel myself somewhat unwell with the disentary, but determined to set out in the morning up the South fork or Missouri leaving Capt. Clark to compleat the deposit and follow me by water with the party; accordingly gave orders to Drewyer, Joseph Fields, Gibson and Goodrich to hold themselves in readiness to accompany me in the morning. Sah-cah-gah, we a, our Indian woman is very sick this evening; Capt. C. blead her. the night was cloudy with some rain.
Monday, June 10th, 1805. The day was fair and nice, so we dried all our gear and supplies. Shields replaced the main spring of my air gun; we owe a lot to his skill on many occasions. Even though he never formally trained in any trade, he mostly makes his own tools and works extremely well in wood and metal. This has been incredibly helpful to us, and he's also a good hunter and a skilled waterman. To prevent accidents, we thought it was wise to hide some ammunition here, so we buried a tin canister with 4 lbs. of powder and a sufficient amount of lead near our tent, and a canister with 6 lbs. of lead and an ax in a thicket three hundred yards away from the point, up the South Fork. We agreed that we could still spare more ammunition for this deposit, so Capt. Clark was set to make another deposit in the morning, in addition to one keg of 20 lbs. and an adequate amount of lead that had been set aside to be buried in the large cache. We now selected the items for this cache, which included 2 top-notch falling axes, one auger, a set of planes, some files, blacksmith's bellows and hammers, stake tongs, etc. Additionally, we had 1 keg of flour, 2 kegs of parched meal, 2 kegs of pork, 1 keg of salt, some chisels, a cooper's howel, some tin cups, 2 muskets, 3 brown bear skins, beaver skins, horns from a bighorn animal, part of the men's clothing and all their extra baggage of every kind, and beaver traps. We pulled the red perogue into the middle of a small island at the entrance of Maria's River, secured it to some trees to prevent high floods from sweeping it away, marked several nearby trees with my brand, and covered it with brush to protect it from the sun. At 3 P.M., a strong wind blew from the southwest, lasting about an hour and accompanied by thunder and rain. Once the shower passed, we took out our canoes, corked them, made repairs, and loaded them up. I'm still feeling a bit unwell from the dysentery, but I'm determined to set out in the morning up the South Fork of the Missouri, leaving Capt. Clark to finish the deposit and follow me by water with the group; I instructed Drewyer, Joseph Fields, Gibson, and Goodrich to be ready to accompany me in the morning. Our Indian woman, Sah-cah-gah, is very sick this evening; Capt. C. bled her. The night was cloudy with some rain.
I saw a small bird today which I do not recollect ever having seen before. it is about the size of the blue thrush or catbird, and it's contour not unlike that bird. the beak is convex, moderately curved, black, smoth, and large in proportion to its size. the legs were black, it had four toes of the same colour on eah foot, and the nails appeared long and somewhat in form like the tallons of the haulk, the eye black and proportionably large. a bluish brown colour occupyed the head, neck, and back, the belly was white; the tail was reather long in proportion and appeared to be composed of feathers of equal length of which a part of those in the center were white the others black. the wings were long and were also varigated with white and black. on each side of the head from the beak back to the neck a small black stripe extended imbrasing the eye. it appeared to be very busy in catching insects which I presume is it's usual food; I found the nest of this little bird, the female which differed but little in size or plumage from the male was seting on four eggs of a pale blue colour with small black freckles or dots.—the bee martin or Kingbird is common to this country tho there are no bees in this country, nor have we met with a honey bee since we passed the entrance of the Osage river.
I saw a small bird today that I don’t remember seeing before. It’s about the size of a blue thrush or a catbird, and its shape is similar to that bird. The beak is convex, moderately curved, black, smooth, and large in proportion to its size. Its legs were black, and it had four toes of the same color on each foot, with long nails that looked somewhat like the talons of a hawk. The eye was black and relatively large. A bluish-brown color covered the head, neck, and back, while the belly was white. The tail was rather long in proportion and appeared to consist of feathers of equal length, with some of the center feathers being white and the others black. The wings were long and also had a mix of white and black. On each side of the head, from the beak back to the neck, there was a small black stripe that surrounded the eye. It seemed to be very busy catching insects, which I assume is its typical food. I found the nest of this little bird; the female, which was very similar in size and plumage to the male, was sitting on four eggs that were pale blue with small black freckles or dots. The bee martin or kingbird is common in this area, even though there are no bees here, and we haven’t encountered a honey bee since we passed the entrance of the Osage River.
[Clark, June 10, 1805]
June 10th Monday 1805 a fine day dry all our articles arrange our baggage burry Some Powder & lead in the point, Some Lead a canister of Powder & an ax in a thicket in the point at Some distance, buried on this day and in the large cache or whole we buried on the up land near the S. fork 1 mile up S. S. we drew up our large Perogue into the middle of a Small Island in the North fork and covered her with bushes after makeing her fast to the trees, branded several trees to prevent the Indians injureing her, at 3 oClock we had hard wind from the S. W. thunder and rain for about an hour after which we repaired & Corked the Canoes & loadded them—Sah cah gah, we a our Indian woman verry Sick I blead her, we deturmined to assend the South fork, and one of us, Capt. Lewis or My self to go by land as far as the Snow mountains S. 20° W. and examine the river & Countrey Course & to be Certain of our assending the proper river, Capt Lewis inclines to go by land on this expedition, according Selects 4 men George Drewyer, Gibson, Jo. Fields & S. Gutrich to accompany him & deturmine to Set out in the morning—The after noon or night Cloudy Some rain, river riseing a little.
June 10th, Monday, 1805: It was a nice, dry day. We organized our supplies and buried some powder and lead at the point, as well as a canister of powder and an ax in a thicket nearby. On this day, we also buried a larger cache on the upland near the south fork, one mile up the south side. We pulled our large canoe into the middle of a small island in the north fork and covered it with branches after tying it securely to the trees. We marked several trees to prevent the Indians from damaging it. At 3 o'clock, a strong wind came from the southwest, along with thunder and rain that lasted about an hour. After the storm, we repaired and corked the canoes and loaded them. Our Indian woman, Sah cah gah, was very sick, so I bled her. We decided to ascend the south fork, with one of us—either Captain Lewis or myself—heading overland towards the Snow Mountains, 20° west, to survey the river and the surrounding country to confirm we were heading up the correct river. Captain Lewis preferred to go overland for this mission, so he selected four men: George Drewyer, Gibson, Jo. Fields, and S. Gutrich to accompany him, planning to set out in the morning. The afternoon was cloudy with some rain, and the river was rising a little.
[Lewis, June 11, 1805]
Tuesday June 11th 1805 This morning I felt much better, but somewhat weakened by my disorder. at 8 A.M. I swung my pack, and set forward with my little party. proceeded to the point where Rose River a branch Maria's River approaches the Missouri so nearly. from this hight we discovered a herd of Elk on the Missouri just above us to which we desended and soon killed four of them. we butchered them and hung up the meat and skins in view of the river in order that the party might get them. I determined to take dinner here, but before the meal was prepared I was taken with such violent pain in the intestens that I was unable to partake of the feast of marrowbones. my pain still increased and towards evening was attended with a high fever; finding myself unable to march, I determined to prepare a camp of some willow boughs and remain all night. having brought no medecine with me I resolved to try an experiment with some simples; and the Choke cherry which grew abundanly in the bottom first struck my attention; I directed a parsel of the small twigs to be geathered striped of their leaves, cut into pieces of about 2 Inches in length and boiled in water untill a strong black decoction of an astringent bitter tact was produced; at sunset I took a point of this decoction and abut an hour after repeated the dze by 10 in the evening I was entirely releived from pain and in fact every symptom of the disorder forsook me; my fever abated, a gentle perspiration was produced and I had a comfortable and refreshing nights rest. Goodrich who is remarkably fond of fishing caught several douzen fish of two different species—one about 9 inches long of white colour round and in form and fins resembles the white chub common to the Potomac; this fish has a smaller head than the Chubb and the mouth is beset both above and below with a rim of fine sharp teeth; the eye moderately large, the puple dark and the iris which is narrow is of a yellowish brown colour, they bite at meat or grasshoppers. this is a soft fish, not very good, tho the flesh is of a fine white colour. the other species is precisely the form and about the size of the well known fish called the Hickory Shad or old wife, with the exception of the teeth, a rim of which garnish the outer edge of both the upper and lower jaw; the tonge and pallet are also beset with long sharp teeth bending inwards, the eye of this fish is very large, and the iris of a silvery colour and wide. of the 1st species we had caught some few before our arrival at the entrance of Maria's river, but of the last we had seen none untill we reached that place and took them in Missouri above it's junction with that river. the latter kind are much the best, and do not inhabit muddy water; the white cat continue as high as the entrance of Maria's R, but those we have caught above Mandans never excede 6 lbs. I beleive that there are but few in this part of the Missouri. saw an abundance of game today even in our short march of 9 miles.
Tuesday, June 11th, 1805 This morning I felt much better, but still a bit worn out from my illness. At 8 A.M., I shouldered my pack and set off with my small group. We made our way to the point where Rose River, a branch of Maria's River, comes very close to the Missouri. From this height, we spotted a herd of elk on the Missouri just above us, so we made our way down and soon brought down four of them. We butchered them and hung the meat and skins where the party could see them, so they could retrieve them. I decided to have dinner here, but before the meal was ready, I was hit with such severe pain in my intestines that I couldn't join in the feast of marrow bones. My pain only intensified, and by evening, I had developed a high fever; realizing I couldn't march any further, I decided to set up camp with some willow branches and stay here for the night. Since I hadn't brought any medicine, I resolved to try a remedy with some local plants. The chokecherry, which grew abundantly in the area, caught my attention first. I instructed a few members of the party to gather some small twigs, stripped them of their leaves, cut them into pieces about 2 inches long, and boil them in water until a strong, dark liquid with an astringent, bitter taste was produced. At sunset, I took a sip of this decoction, and about an hour later, I took another dose. By 10 in the evening, I was completely relieved of pain, and all the symptoms of my illness vanished; my fever subsided, I broke into a gentle sweat, and I enjoyed a comfortable and refreshing night's sleep. Goodrich, who loves fishing, caught several dozen fish of two different types—one type was about 9 inches long, white in color, and round-shaped, resembling the white chub common in the Potomac. This fish has a smaller head than the chub, and its mouth is lined both above and below with a row of fine, sharp teeth; the eye is moderately large, the pupil is dark, and the narrow iris is a yellowish-brown color. They will bite at meat or grasshoppers. This fish is soft and not very tasty, though its flesh is a nice white color. The other type is exactly the same shape and about the same size as the well-known fish called the hickory shad, with the exception of its teeth—both the upper and lower jaw have a row of sharp teeth. The tongue and palate are also lined with long, sharp teeth angled inward, the eye of this fish is quite large, and its wide iris is silver-colored. We had caught a few of the first species before arriving at the entrance of Maria's River, but we hadn't seen any of the second type until we reached that point and caught them in the Missouri above its junction with that river. The latter kind is much better and doesn't live in muddy water; the white catfish can be found as far up as the entrance of Maria's River, but the ones we've caught above Mandans never exceed 6 lbs. I believe there are very few in this part of the Missouri. We saw plenty of game today, even during our short march of 9 miles.
[Clark, June 11, 1805]
June 11th Tuesday 1805 a fair morning wind from the S W. hard we burry 1 keg in the Cash & 2 Canisters of Powder in 2 seperate places all with Lead; & in the Cash 2 axes, auger, Plains, 1 Keg flour, 2 Kegs Pork, 2 Kegs Parchd meal 1 Keg salt, files Chisel, 2 Musquits, Some tin cups, bowel, 3 bear Skins, Beaver Skins, Horns, & parts of the mens robes & clothes.—Beaver Traps and blacksmith's tools. Capt. Lewis Set out at 8 oClock we delayed to repare Some guns out of order & complete our deposit, which took us the day the evening fair and fine wind from the N. W. after night it became cold & the wind blew hard, the Indian woman verry Sick, I blead her which appeared to be of great Service to her both rivers riseing fast
June 11th, Tuesday, 1805, it was a nice morning with a strong wind from the southwest. We buried 1 keg in the cache and 2 canisters of powder in 2 separate spots, all with lead; and in the cache, we placed 2 axes, an auger, planks, 1 keg of flour, 2 kegs of pork, 2 kegs of parched meal, 1 keg of salt, files, a chisel, 2 muskets, some tin cups, a bowl, 3 bear skins, beaver skins, horns, and parts of the men's robes and clothes—beaver traps and blacksmith's tools. Captain Lewis set out at 8 o'clock while we delayed to repair some guns that were out of order and finish our deposit, which took us the whole day. The evening was pleasant with a nice wind from the northwest, but after nightfall, it got cold and the wind picked up. The Indian woman was very sick, so I bled her, which seemed to help her a lot. Both rivers are rising quickly.
[Lewis, June 12, 1805]
Wednesday June 12th 1805. This morning I felt myself quite revived, took another portion of my decoction and set out at sunrise. I now boar out from the river in order to avoid the steep ravines of the river which usually make out in the plain to the distance of one or two miles; after gaining the leavel plain my couse was a litte to the West of S. W.—having traveled about 12 miles by 9 in the morning, the sun became warm, and I boar a little to the south in order to gain the river as well to obtain water to allay my thirst as to kill something for breakfast; for the plain through which we had been passing possesses no water and is so level that we cannot approach the buffaloe within shot before they discover us and take to flight. we arrived at the river about 10 A.M. having traveled about 15 m. at this place there is a handsom open bottom with some cottonwood timber, here we met with two large bear, and killed them boath at the first fire, a circumstance which I beleive has never happend with the party in killing the brown bear before. we dressed the bear, breakfasted on a part of one of them and hung the meat and skins on the trees out of the reach of the wolves. I left a note on a stick near the river for Capt. Clark, informing him of my progress &c.—after refreshing ourselves abut 2 hours we again ascended the bluffs and gained the high plain; saw a great number of burrowing squirrels in the plains today. also wolves Antelopes mule deer and immence herds of buffaloe. we passed a ridge of land considerably higher than the adjacent plain on either side, from this hight we had a most beatifull and picturesk view of the Rocky mountains which wer perfectly covered with Snow and reaching from S. E. to the N. of N. W.—they appear to be formed of several ranges each succeeding range rising higher than the preceding one untill the most distant appear to loose their snowey tops in the clouds; this was an august spectacle and still rendered more formidable by the recollection that we had them to pass. we traveled about twelve miles when we agin struck the Missoury at a handsome little bottom of Cottonwood timber and altho the sun had not yet set I felt myself somewhat weary being weakened I presume by late disorder; and therfore determined to remain here during the ballance of the day and night, having marched about 27 miles today. on our way in the evening we had killed a buffaloe, an Antelope and three mule deer, and taken a sufficient quantity of the best of the flesh of these anamals for three meals, which we had brought with us. This evening I ate very heartily and after pening the transactions of the day amused myself catching those white fish mentioned yesterday; they are here in great abundance I caught upwards of a douzen in a few minutes; they bit most freely at the melt of a deer which goodrich had brought with him for the purpose of fishing.
Wednesday, June 12th, 1805. This morning, I felt quite revitalized, took another dose of my brew, and set out at sunrise. I moved away from the river to avoid the steep ravines that extend a mile or two into the plain; after reaching the level plain, my course was slightly to the West of S.W. After traveling about 12 miles by 9 in the morning, the sun warmed up, and I shifted a bit south to reach the river for water to quench my thirst and to hunt something for breakfast. The plain we had been crossing had no water and was so flat that we couldn’t get close to the buffalo before they noticed us and ran off. We arrived at the river around 10 A.M., having covered about 15 miles. At this spot, there’s a nice open area with some cottonwood trees; here we encountered two large bears and managed to kill both with our first shots, a feat I believe has never happened before with this party while hunting brown bears. We dressed the bear, had part of one for breakfast, and hung the meat and skins in the trees out of the wolves’ reach. I left a note on a stick near the river for Capt. Clark, updating him on my progress, etc. After resting for about two hours, we climbed back up the bluffs and reached the high plain, where we saw many burrowing squirrels today, along with wolves, antelopes, mule deer, and immense herds of buffalo. We passed a ridge of land significantly higher than the surrounding plain, and from this height, we enjoyed a beautiful and picturesque view of the Rocky Mountains, which were completely covered in snow, stretching from the southeast to the northwest. They seemed to consist of several ranges, each one higher than the last, until the most distant ones appeared to lose their snowy peaks in the clouds; this was a grand sight made more daunting by the knowledge that we had to cross them. After traveling about twelve miles, we reached the Missouri River at a lovely little bottom with cottonwood trees, and even though the sun hadn’t set yet, I felt a bit tired, likely due to previous illness. So, I decided to stay here for the rest of the day and night, having walked about 27 miles today. On our way in the evening, we had killed a buffalo, an antelope, and three mule deer, taking enough of the best meat from these animals for three meals for later. That evening, I ate heartily, and after noting the day’s events, I entertained myself by catching those white fish I mentioned yesterday; they were plentiful here, and I caught over a dozen in a few minutes; they bit eagerly on the deer entrails that Goodrich had brought along for fishing.
The narrow leafed cottonwood grows here in common with the other species of the same tree with a broad leaf or that which has constituted the major part of the timber of the Missouri from it's junction with the Mississippi to this place. The narrow leafed cottonwood differs only from the other in the shape of it's leaf and greater thickness of it's bark. the leaf is a long oval acutely pointed, about 21/2 or 3 Inches long and from 3/4 to an inch in width; it is thick, sometimes slightly grooved or channeled; margin slightly serrate; the upper disk of a common green while the under disk is of a whiteish green; the leaf is smoth. the beaver appear to be extremely fond of this tree and even seem to scelect it from among the other species of Cottonwood, probably from it's affording a deeper and softer bark than the other species.—saw some sign of the Otter as well as beaver near our camp, also a great number of tracks of the brown bear; these fellows leave a formidable impression in the mud or sand I measured one this evening which was eleven inches long exclusive of the tallons and seven and 1/4 in width.
The narrow-leafed cottonwood grows here alongside other species of the same tree, like the broadleaf variety, which has made up most of the timber from the Missouri River's junction with the Mississippi to this area. The narrow-leafed cottonwood is only different in the shape of its leaf and the thicker bark. The leaf is long, oval, and pointed, about 2.5 to 3 inches long and from ¾ to an inch wide; it's thick and sometimes has slight grooves; the edges are slightly serrated. The top side is a standard green, while the underside is a whitish green; the leaf is smooth. Beavers seem really fond of this tree and even appear to select it over other cottonwood species, likely because it offers a thicker and softer bark. I also saw some signs of otters and beavers near our camp, as well as many tracks from brown bears; these guys leave quite an impression in the mud or sand. I measured one this evening that was eleven inches long, not counting the claws, and seven and a quarter inches wide.
[Clark, June 12, 1805]
June 12th 1805 Wednesday last night was Clear and Cold, this morning fair we Set out at 8 oClock & proceeded on verry well wind from the S. W. The interpreters wife verry Sick So much So that I move her into the back part of our Covered part of the Perogue which is Cool, her own situation being a verry hot one in the bottom of the Perogue exposed to the Sun—Saw emence No. of Swallows in the 1st bluff on the Lard. Side, water verry Swift, the bluff are blackish Clay & Coal for about 80 feet. the earth above that for 30 or 40 feet is a brownish yellow, a number of bars of corse gravil and Stones of different Shape & Size &c. Saw a number of rattle Snakes to day one of the men cought one by the head in Catch'g hold of a bush on which his head lay reclined three canoes were in great danger today one diped water, another was near turning over &c. at 2 oClock P M a fiew drops of rain I walked thro a point and killed a Buck Elk & Deer, and we camped on the Stard Side, the Interpreters woman verry Sick worse than She has been. I give her medison one man have a fellon riseing on his hand one other with the Tooth ake has taken cold in the jaw &c.
June 12th, 1805, Wednesday: Last night was clear and cold, and this morning was fair. We set out at 8 o'clock and made good progress, with the wind coming from the southwest. The interpreter's wife was very sick, so I moved her to the cooler back part of our covered canoe, as her situation in the hot bottom of the canoe was uncomfortable—exposed to the sun. We saw a huge number of swallows at the first bluff on the left side. The water was very swift, and the bluffs are made of blackish clay and coal for about 80 feet. The soil above that is a brownish-yellow for 30 or 40 feet, with several bars of coarse gravel and stones of various shapes and sizes. I spotted several rattlesnakes today; one of the men caught one by the head after grabbing a bush on which its head was resting. Three canoes were in great danger today; one took on water, and another nearly capsized. At 2 o'clock PM, a few drops of rain fell. I walked through a point and killed a buck elk and a deer, and we camped on the starboard side. The interpreter's wife was very sick, worse than she had been. I gave her medicine; one man has a festering sore developing on his hand, and another has a toothache and has caught a cold in his jaw.
[Lewis, June 13, 1805]
Thursday June 13th 1805. This morning we set out about sunrise after taking breakfast off our venison and fish. we again ascended the hills of the river and gained the level country. the country through which we passed for the first six miles tho more roling than that we had passed yesterday might still with propryety he deemed a level country; our course as yesterday was generally S W. the river from the place we left it appeared to make a considerable bend to the South. from the extremity of this roling country I overlooked a most beatifull and level plain of great extent or at least 50 or sixty miles; in this there were infinitely more buffaloe than I had ever before witnessed at a view. nearly in the direction I had been travling or S. W. two curious mountains presented themselves of square figures, the sides rising perpendicularly to the hight of 250 feet and appeared to be formed of yellow clay; their tops appeared to be level plains; these inaccessible hights appeared like the ramparts of immence fortifications; I have no doubt but with very little assistance from art they might be rendered impregnable. fearing that the river boar to the South and that I might pass the falls if they existed between this an the snowey mountains I altered my course nealy to the South leaving those insulated hills to my wright and proceeded through the plain; I sent Feels on my right and Drewyer and Gibson on my left with orders to kill some meat and join me at the river where I should halt for dinner. I had proceded on this course about two miles with Goodrich at some distance behind me whin my ears were saluted with the agreeable sound of a fall of water and advancing a little further I saw the spray arrise above the plain like a collumn of smoke which would frequently dispear again in an instant caused I presume by the wind which blew pretty hard from the S. W. I did not however loose my direction to this point which soon began to make a roaring too tremendious to be mistaken for any cause short of the great falls of the Missouri. here I arrived about 12 OClock having traveled by estimate about 15 Miles. I hurryed down the hill which was about 200 feet high and difficult of access, to gaze on this sublimely grand specticle. I took my position on the top of some rocks about 20 feet high opposite the center of the falls. this chain of rocks appear once to have formed a part of those over which the waters tumbled, but in the course of time has been seperated from it to the distance of 150 yards lying prarrallel to it and forming a butment against which the water after falling over the precipice beats with great fury; this barrier extends on the right to the perpendicular clift which forms that board of the river but to the distance of 120 yards next to the clift it is but a few feet above the level of the water, and here the water in very high tides appears to pass in a channel of 40 yds. next to the higher part of the ledg of rocks; on the left it extends within 80 or ninty yards of the lard. Clift which is also perpendicular; between this abrupt extremity of the ledge of rocks and the perpendicular bluff the whole body of water passes with incredible swiftness. immediately at the cascade the river is about 300 yds. wide; about ninty or a hundred yards of this next the Lard. bluff is a smoth even sheet of water falling over a precipice of at least eighty feet, the remaining part of about 200 yards on my right formes the grandest sight I ever beheld, the hight of the fall is the same of the other but the irregular and somewhat projecting rocks below receives the water in it's passage down and brakes it into a perfect white foam which assumes a thousand forms in a moment sometimes flying up in jets of sparkling foam to the hight of fifteen or twenty feet and are scarcely formed before large roling bodies of the same beaten and foaming water is thrown over and conceals them. in short the rocks seem to be most happily fixed to present a sheet of the whitest beaten froath for 200 yards in length and about 80 feet perpendicular. the water after decending strikes against the butment before mentioned or that on which I stand and seems to reverberate and being met by the more impetuous courant they role and swell into half formed billows of great hight which rise and again disappear in an instant. this butment of rock defends a handsom little bottom of about three acres which is deversified and agreeably shaded with some cottonwood trees; in the lower extremity of the bottom there is a very thick grove of the same kind of trees which are small, in this wood there are several Indian lodges formed of sticks. a few small cedar grow near the ledge of rocks where I rest. below the point of these rocks at a small distance the river is divided by a large rock which rises several feet above the water, and extends downwards with the stream for about 20 yards. about a mile before the water arrives at the pitch it decends very rappidly, and is confined on the Lard. side by a perpendicular clift of about 100 feet, on Stard. side it is also perpendicular for about three hundred yards above the pitch where it is then broken by the discharge of a small ravine, down which the buffaloe have a large beaten road to the water, for it is but in very few places that these anamals can obtain water near this place owing to the steep and inaccessible banks. I see several skelletons of the buffaloe lying in the edge of the water near the Stard. bluff which I presume have been swept down by the current and precipitated over this tremendious fall. about 300 yards below me there is another butment of solid rock with a perpendicular face and abot 60 feet high which projects from the Stard. side at right angles to the distance of 134 yds. and terminates the lower part nearly of the bottom before mentioned; there being a passage arround the end of this butment between it and the river of about 20 yardes; here the river again assumes it's usual width soon spreading to near 300 yards but still continues it's rappidity. from the reflection of the sun on the spray or mist which arrises from these falls there is a beatifull rainbow produced which adds not a little to the beauty of this majestically grand senery. after wrighting this imperfect discription I again viewed the falls and was so much disgusted with the imperfect idea which it conveyed of the scene that I determined to draw my pen across it and begin agin, but then reflected that I could not perhaps succeed better than pening the first impressions of the mind; I wished for the pencil of Salvator Rosa or the pen of Thompson, that I might be enabled to give to the enlightened world some just idea of this truly magnifficent and sublimely grand object, which has from the commencement of time been concealed from the view of civilized man; but this was fruitless and vain. I most sincerely regreted that I had not brought a crimee obscura with me by the assistance of which even I could have hoped to have done better but alas this was also out of my reach; I therefore with the assistance of my pen only indeavoured to traces some of the stronger features of this seen by the assistance of which and my recollection aided by some able pencil I hope still to give to the world some faint idea of an object which at this moment fills me with such pleasure and astonishment, and which of it's kind I will venture to ascert is second to but one in the known world. I retired to the shade of a tree where I determined to fix my camp for the present and dispatch a man in the morning to inform Capt. C. and the party of my success in finding the falls and settle in their minds all further doubts as to the Missouri. the hunters now arrived loaded with excellent buffaloe meat and informed me that they had killed three very fat cows about 3/4 of a mile hence. I directed them after they had refreshed themselves to go back and butcher them and bring another load of meat each to our camp determining to employ those who remained with me in drying meat for the party against their arrival. in about 2 hours or at 4 OClock P.M. they set out on this duty, and I walked down the river about three miles to discover if possible some place to which the canoes might arrive or at which they might be drawn on shore in order to be taken by land above the falls; but returned without effecting either of these objects; the river was one continued sene of rappids and cascades which I readily perceived could not be encountered with our canoes, and the Clifts still retained their perpendicular structure and were from 150 to 200 feet high; in short the river appears here to have woarn a channel in the process of time through a solid rock. on my return I found the party at camp; they had butchered the buffaloe and brought in some more meat as I had directed. Goodrich had caught half a douzen very fine trout and a number of both species of the white fish. these trout are from sixteen to twenty three inches in length, precisely resemble our mountain or speckled trout in form and the position of their fins, but the specks on these are of a deep black instead of the red or goald colour of those common to the U. States. these are furnished long sharp teeth on the pallet and tongue and have generally a small dash of red on each side behind the front ventral fins; the flesh is of a pale yellowish red, or when in good order, of a rose red.
Thursday, June 13th, 1805. This morning we set off around sunrise after having breakfast with our venison and fish. We climbed the hills by the river and reached the flatlands. The terrain we traveled through for the first six miles, though more rolling than what we passed yesterday, could still be considered level land; our course, like yesterday, was mostly southwest. From where we left the river, it seemed to make a significant bend to the south. From the edge of this rolling terrain, I looked out over a beautiful, expansive plain stretching for at least 50 or 60 miles; there were more buffalo here than I had ever seen at once. Approximately in the direction I was traveling, southwest, two curious mountains appeared, shaped like squares, rising straight up to about 250 feet, seemingly made of yellow clay; their tops appeared flat. These towering heights looked like the walls of massive fortifications; I have no doubt that, with just a little help from engineering, they could be made impenetrable. Worried that the river might curve too far south and that I could miss any falls between here and the snowy mountains, I adjusted my course nearly south, leaving those isolated hills to my right, and continued through the plain. I sent Fields on my right and Drewyer and Gibson on my left with instructions to hunt some meat and meet me at the river where I would stop for lunch. I had traveled this way for about two miles with Goodrich a bit behind me when I heard the pleasant sound of falling water. Moving a little further, I saw spray rising above the plain like a column of smoke, which would often vanish in an instant, likely due to the strong wind blowing from the southwest. However, I didn't lose my direction, and soon it began to make a roaring sound too loud to be anything but the great falls of the Missouri. I arrived there around 12 o'clock, having estimated I traveled about 15 miles. I hurried down a hill about 200 feet high that was difficult to navigate to gaze at this incredibly grand spectacle. I positioned myself on top of some rocks about 20 feet high, opposite the center of the falls. This chain of rocks once formed part of the waterfall, but over time has separated about 150 yards away from it, lying parallel and creating a buttress against which the water crashes with great force after tumbling over the edge; this barrier extends to the right towards the vertical cliff that forms the riverbank, but about 120 yards next to the cliff, it is just a few feet above the water level, and during very high tides, the water appears to flow in a channel of 40 yards next to the higher part of the rock ledge; on the left, it extends within 80 or 90 yards of the steep cliff, which is also vertical. Between this abrupt end of the rock ledge and the steep bluff, the entire body of water passes with incredible speed. Right at the waterfall, the river is about 300 yards wide; about 90 to 100 yards of this, near the bluff, is a smooth, even sheet of water plunging over a drop of at least 80 feet. The remaining section, about 200 yards on my right, creates the grandest sight I have ever seen; the height of the falls is the same, but the uneven and somewhat protruding rocks below catch the water as it falls and breaks it into perfect white foam, forming a thousand shapes in an instant, sometimes shooting up in jets of sparkling foam to heights of 15 or 20 feet, only to be quickly covered by large swirling masses of the same beaten frothing water. In short, the rocks seem perfectly arranged to present a sheet of the whitest beaten foam for 200 yards in length and about 80 feet high. The water, after descending, crashes into the base I mentioned earlier, or the one on which I stand, seeming to reverberate, and being met by the more forceful current, it rolls and swells into half-formed waves of great height that rise and vanish in an instant. This rock buttress protects a lovely little flat area of about three acres, which is pleasantly shaded by several cottonwood trees; at the bottom of this area, there is a very dense grove of the same type of trees, which are smaller, and here there are several Indian lodges made from sticks. A few small cedars grow by the rock ledge where I rest. Below the tip of these rocks, at a small distance, the river splits around a large rock rising several feet above the water, extending downstream about 20 yards. About a mile upstream from the drop, the water descends very rapidly, confined on the left side by a vertical cliff about 100 feet high, and on the right side, it remains vertical for about 300 yards until it becomes disturbed by a small ravine, down which the buffalo have created a well-trodden path to the water, as there are very few places where these animals can access water near here due to the steep and inaccessible banks. I noticed several buffalo skeletons at the water's edge near the right bluff, which I suspect were swept down by the current and thrown over this tremendous fall. About 300 yards below me, there is another solid rock buttress with a vertical face about 60 feet high protruding from the right side, extending at a right angle for about 134 yards and nearly ending the lower part of the previously mentioned flat area; there being a passage around the end of this buttress between it and the river of about 20 yards; here the river returns to its usual width, quickly widening to nearly 300 yards while maintaining its rapid flow. The sun's reflection on the spray or mist rising from these falls creates a beautiful rainbow, enhancing the beauty of this majestically grand scenery. After writing this imperfect description, I looked at the falls again and was so dissatisfied with how poorly it conveyed the scene that I considered starting over, but then I realized I might not succeed better than capturing the initial impressions in my mind. I wished for the talent of Salvator Rosa or the pen of Thompson so that I could portray this truly magnificent and sublimely grand object, which has been hidden from the sight of civilized man since the beginning of time; but this hope was in vain. I deeply regretted not bringing a camera obscura with me, which might have allowed me to do better, but alas, that was also beyond my reach; so, with just my pen, I attempted to sketch some of the more prominent features of this sight, hoping that, with the help of my recollections and a skilled artist, I could still give the world a faint idea of something that fills me with such pleasure and astonishment and which I assert is second only to one other in the known world. I retired to the shade of a tree, where I decided to set up camp for now and send a man in the morning to inform Capt. C. and the party of my success in finding the falls, clearing up any further doubts about the Missouri. The hunters soon arrived, loaded with excellent buffalo meat, and told me they had killed three very fat cows about three-quarters of a mile away. I instructed them to refresh themselves and then return to butcher them and bring another load of meat to our camp, planning to have those who remained with me dry meat for the party’s return. About two hours later, around 4 o'clock p.m., they set out for this task, and I walked down the river about three miles to see if there was any place where the canoes could land or be pulled ashore to be taken overland above the falls; but I returned without achieving either goal; the river was one continuous scene of rapids and cascades that I quickly realized could not accommodate our canoes, and the cliffs still stood vertical, rising from 150 to 200 feet high; in short, the river seems to have carved a channel through solid rock over time. On my return, I found the party at camp; they had butchered the buffalo and brought in some more meat as I had directed. Goodrich had caught half a dozen very fine trout and several of both species of whitefish. These trout range from 16 to 23 inches in length, resembling our mountain or speckled trout in shape and fin positioning, but the spots on these fish are a deep black instead of the red or gold of those common in the U.S. They have long, sharp teeth on their palate and tongue and usually a small dash of red on each side behind the front ventral fins; their flesh is of a pale yellowish-red, or, when in good condition, a rose red.
I am induced to believe that the Brown, the white and the Grizly bear of this country are the same species only differing in colour from age or more probably from the same natural cause that many other anamals of the same family differ in colour. one of those which we killed yesterday was of a creemcoloured white while the other in company with it was of the common bey or rdish brown, which seems to be the most usual colour of them. the white one appeared from it's tallons and teath to be the youngest; it was smaller than the other, and although a monstrous beast we supposed that it had not yet attained it's growth and that it was a little upwards of two years old. the young cubs which we have killed have always been of a brownish white, but none of them as white as that we killed yesterday. one other that we killed sometime since which I mentioned sunk under some driftwood and was lost, had a white stripe or list of about eleven inches wide entirely arround his body just behind the shoalders, and was much darker than these bear usually are. the grizly bear we have never yet seen. I have seen their tallons in possession of the Indians and from their form I am perswaded if there is any difference between this species and the brown or white bear it is very inconsiderable. There is no such anamal as a black bear in this open country or of that species generally denominated the black bear
I believe that the Brown, white, and Grizzly bears in this area are all the same species, just differing in color due to age or likely the same natural causes that lead to color variations in other animals of the same family. One we killed yesterday was a cream-colored white, while the other one beside it was the usual bay or reddish brown, which seems to be their most common color. The white one appeared to be younger based on its claws and teeth; it was smaller than the other and, although still large, we thought it hadn't fully grown yet and was probably just over two years old. The young cubs we've hunted have always been a brownish white, but none were as white as the one we killed yesterday. There was another one we killed a while back that sank under some driftwood and was lost. It had a white stripe about eleven inches wide all around its body just behind the shoulders and was much darker than the typical bears. We have never seen a Grizzly bear. I've seen their claws with the Indians, and from their shape, I'm convinced that if there is any difference between this species and the brown or white bear, it’s minimal. There is no animal like a black bear in this open country, nor is there a species commonly referred to as the black bear.
my fare is really sumptuous this evening; buffaloe's humps, tongues and marrowbones, fine trout parched meal pepper and salt, and a good appetite; the last is not considered the least of the luxuries.
My meal is really wonderful tonight; buffalo humps, tongues, and marrow bones, fine trout, roasted cornmeal with pepper and salt, and a good appetite; the last is not seen as the least of the luxuries.
[Clark, June 13, 1805]
June 13th Thursday 1805 a fair morning, Some dew this morning the Indian woman Verry sick I gave her a doste of Salts. We Set out early, at a mile & 1/2 passed a Small rapid Stream on the Lard Side which heads in a mountain to the S. E 12 or 15 miles, which at this time covered with Snow, we call this stream Snow river, as it is the conveyance of the melted snow from that mountain at present. numbers of gees & goslings, the gees cannot fly at this Season—goose berries are ripe and in great abundance, the yellow Current is also Common, not yet ripe Killed a buffalow & Campd on the Lard Side near an old Indian fortified campy one man Sick & 3 with Swellings, the Indian woman verry Sick. Killed a goat & fraser 2 Buffalow
June 13th, Thursday, 1805 - it was a nice morning. There was some dew. The Indian woman was very sick, so I gave her a dose of salts. We set out early and, after about a mile and a half, we passed a small fast-running stream on the left side that starts in a mountain to the southeast, about 12 or 15 miles away. At this time of year, it's covered in snow, so we call this stream Snow River, as it carries the melted snow from that mountain right now. There were many geese and goslings, but the geese can’t fly at this season. Gooseberries were ripe and plentiful, and yellow currants were also common, though not yet ripe. We killed a buffalo and set up camp on the left side near an old Indian fortified camp. One man was sick and three others had swellings, and the Indian woman was very sick. We also killed a goat and two buffalo.
The river verry rapid maney Sholes great nos of large Stones passed Some bluffs or low cliffts of Slate to day
The river is very fast, with many shallows and a lot of large stones. We passed some bluffs or low cliffs of slate today.
[Lewis, June 14, 1805]
Friday June 14th 1805. This morning at sunrise I dispatched Joseph Fields with a letter to Capt. Clark and ordered him to keep sufficiently near the river to observe it's situation in order that he might be enabled to give Capt. Clark an idea of the point at which it would be best to halt to make our portage. I set one man about preparing a saffold and collecting wood to dry the meat Sent the others to bring in the ballance of the buffaloe meat, or at least the part which the wolves had left us, for those fellows are ever at hand and ready to partake with us the moment we kill a buffaloe; and there is no means of puting the meat out of their reach in those plains; the two men shortly after returned with the meat and informed me that the wolves had devoured the greater part of the meat. about ten OClock this morning while the men were engaged with the meat I took my Gun and espontoon and thought I would walk a few miles and see where the rappids termineated above, and return to dinner. accordingly I set out and proceeded up the river about S. W. after passing one continued rappid and three small cascades of abut for or five feet each at the distance of about five miles I arrived at a fall of about 19 feet; the river is hereabout 400 yds. wide. this pitch which I called the crooked falls occupys about three fourths of the width of the river, commencing on the South side, extends obliquly upwards about 150 yds. then forming an accute angle extends downwards nearly to the commencement of four small Islands lying near the N. shore; among these Islands and between them and the lower extremity of the perpendicular pitch being a distance of 100 yards or upwards, the water glides down the side of a sloping rock with a volocity almost equal to that of it's perpendicular decent. just above this rappid the river makes a suddon bend to the right or Northwardly. I should have returned from hence but hearing a tremendious roaring above me I continued my rout across the point of a hill a few hundred yards further and was again presented by one of the most beatifull objects in nature, a cascade of about fifty feet perpendicular streching at rightangles across the river from side to side to the distance of at least a quarter of a mile. here the river pitches over a shelving rock, with an edge as regular and as streight as if formed by art, without a nich or brake in it; the water decends in one even and uninterupted sheet to the bottom wher dashing against the rocky bottom rises into foaming billows of great hight and rappidly glides away, hising flashing and sparkling as it departs the sprey rises from one extremity to the other to 50 f. I now thought that if a skillfull painter had been asked to make a beautifull cascade that he would most probably have pesented the precise immage of this one; nor could I for some time determine on which of those two great cataracts to bestoe the palm, on this or that which I had discovered yesterday; at length I determined between these two great rivals for glory that this was pleasingly beautifull, while the other was sublimely grand. I had scarcely infixed my eyes from this pleasing object before I discovered another fall above at the distance of half a mile; thus invited I did not once think of returning but hurried thither to amuse myself with this newly discovered object. I found this to be a cascade of about 14 feet possessing a perpendicular pitch of about 6 feet. this was tolerably regular streching across the river from bank to bank where it was about a quarter of a mile wide; in any other neighbourhood but this, such a cascade would probably be extoled for it's beaty and magnifficence, but here I passed it by with but little attention, determining as I had proceded so far to continue my rout to the head of the rappids if it should even detain me all night. at every rappid cateract and cascade I discovered that the bluffs grew lower or that the bed of the river rose nearer to a level with the plains. still pursuing the river with it's course about S. W. passing a continued sene of rappids and small cascades, at the distance of 21/2 miles I arrived at another cataract of 26 feet. this is not immediately perpendicular, a rock about 1/3 of it's decent seems to protrude to a small distance and receives the water in it's passage downwards and gives a curve to the water tho it falls mostly with a regular and smoth sheet. the river is near six hundred yards wide at this place, a beatifull level plain on the S. side only a few feet above the level of the pitch; on the N. side where I am the country is More broken and immediately behind me near the river a high hill. below this fall at a little distance a beatifull little Island well timbered is situated about the middle of the river. in this Island on a Cottonwood tree an Eagle has placed her nest; a more inaccessable spot I beleive she could not have found; for neither man nor beast dare pass those gulphs which seperate her little domain from the shores. the water is also broken in such manner as it decends over this pitch that the mist or sprey rises to a considerable hight. this fall is certainly much the greatest I ever behald except those two which I have mentioned below. it is incomparably a geater cataract and a more noble interesting object than the celibrated falls of Potomac or Soolkiln &c. just above this is another cascade of about 5 feet, above which the water as far as I could see began to abate of it's valosity, and I therefore determined to ascend the hill behind me which promised a fine prospect of the adjacent country, nor was I disappointed on my arrival at it's summit. from hence I overlooked a most beatifull and extensive plain reaching from the river to the base of the Snowclad mountains to the S. and S. West; I also observed the missoury streching it's meandering course to the South through this plain to a great distance filled to it's even and grassey brim; another large river flowed in on it's Western side about four miles above me and extended itself though a level and fertile valley of 3 miles in width a great distance to the N. W. rendered more conspicuous by the timber which garnished it's borders. in these plains and more particularly in the valley just below me immence herds of buffaloe are feeding. the missouri just above this hill makes a bend to the South where it lies a smoth even and unruffled sheet of water of nearly a mile in width bearing on it's watry bosome vast flocks of geese which feed at pleasure in the delightfull pasture on either border. the young geese are now completely feathered except the wings which both in the young and old are yet deficient. after feasting my eyes on this ravishing prospect and resting myself a few minutes I determined to procede as far as the river which I saw discharge itself on the West side of the Missouri convinced that it was the river which the Indians call medicine river and which they informed us fell into the Missouri just above the falls I decended the hills and directed my course to the bend of the Missouri near which there was a herd of at least a thousand buffaloe; here I thought it would be well to kill a buffaloe and leave him untill my return from the river and if I then found that I had not time to get back to camp this evening to remain all night here there being a few sticks of drift wood lying along shore which would answer for my fire, and a few sattering cottonwood trees a few hundred yards below which would afford me at least a semblance of a shelter. under this impression I scelected a fat buffaloe and shot him very well, through the lungs; while I was gazeing attentively on the poor anamal discharging blood in streams from his mouth and nostrils, expecting him to fall every instant, and having entirely forgotton to reload my rifle, a large white, or reather brown bear, had perceived and crept on me within 20 steps before I discovered him; in the first moment I drew up my gun to shoot, but at the same instant recolected that she was not loaded and that he was too near for me to hope to perform this opperation before he reached me, as he was then briskly advancing on me; it was an open level plain, not a bush within miles nor a tree within less than three hundred yards of me; the river bank was sloping and not more than three feet above the level of the water; in short there was no place by means of which I could conceal myself from this monster untill I could charge my rifle; in this situation I thought of retreating in a brisk walk as fast as he was advancing untill I could reach a tree about 300 yards below me, but I had no sooner terned myself about but he pitched at me, open mouthed and full speed, I ran about 80 yards and found he gained on me fast, I then run into the water the idea struk me to get into the water to such debth that I could stand and he would be obliged to swim, and that I could in that situation defend myself with my espontoon; accordingly I ran haistily into the water about waist deep, and faced about and presented the point of my espontoon, at this instant he arrived at the edge of the water within about 20 feet of me; the moment I put myself in this attitude of defence he sudonly wheeled about as if frightened, declined the combat on such unequal grounds, and retreated with quite as great precipitation as he had just before pursued me. as soon as I saw him run off in that manner I returned to the shore and charged my gun, which I had still retained in my hand throughout this curious adventure. I saw him run through the level open plain about three miles, till he disappeared in the woods on medecine river; during the whole of this distance he ran at full speed, sometimes appearing to look behind him as if he expected pursuit. I now began to reflect on this novil occurrence and indeavoured to account for this sudden retreat of the bear. I at first thought that perhaps he had not smelt me before he arrived at the waters edge so near me, but I then reflected that he had pursued me for about 80 or 90 yards before I took the water and on examination saw the grownd toarn with his tallons immediately on the impression of my steps; and the cause of his allarm still remains with me misterious and unaccountable.—so it was and I feelt myself not a little gratifyed that he had declined the combat. My gun reloaded I felt confidence once more in my strength; and determined not to be thwarted in my design of visiting medicine river, but determined never again to suffer my peice to be longer empty than the time she necessarily required to charge her. I passed through the plain nearly in the direction which the bear had run to medecine river, found it a handsome stream, about 200 yds. wide with a gentle current, apparently deep, it's waters clear, and banks which were formed principally of darkbrown and blue clay were about the hight of those of the Missouri or from 3 to 5 feet; yet they had not the appearance of ever being overflown, a circumstance, which I did not expect so immediately in the neighbourhood of the mountains, from whence I should have supposed, that sudden and immence torrants would issue at certain seasons of the year; but the reverse is absolutely the case. I am therefore compelled to beleive that the snowey mountains yeald their warters slowly, being partially effected every day by the influence of the sun only, and never suddonly melted down by haisty showers of rain.
Friday, June 14th, 1805. This morning at sunrise, I sent Joseph Fields with a letter to Capt. Clark and instructed him to stay close to the river to keep an eye on its situation, so he could give Capt. Clark an idea of the best spot to stop for our portage. I assigned one man to prepare a scaffold and collect wood to dry the meat, while the others were sent to gather the remaining buffalo meat, or at least what the wolves had left us, since those guys are always around, ready to feast the moment we kill a buffalo. There's no way to keep the meat out of their reach on those plains. The two men soon returned with the meat and informed me that the wolves had eaten most of it. Around ten o'clock this morning, while the men were busy with the meat, I took my gun and espontoon and decided to walk a few miles to see where the rapids ended upstream, planning to return for dinner. So, I set out and proceeded up the river about southwest. After passing one continuous rapid and three small cascades of about four or five feet each, I arrived at a drop of about 19 feet. The river here is about 400 yards wide. This drop, which I called the Crooked Falls, takes up about three-quarters of the river's width. It starts on the south side, extending diagonally upwards for about 150 yards, then forming an acute angle and extending downwards almost to the start of four small islands near the north shore. Among these islands, and between them and the lower end of the vertical drop, which is about 100 yards or more, the water slides down a sloping rock with a velocity almost equal to its vertical descent. Just above this rapid, the river makes a sudden bend to the right, or northward. I should have turned back from here, but hearing a tremendous roar above me, I continued my route across the point of a hill a few hundred yards further and was presented with one of the most beautiful sights in nature: a cascade about fifty feet high, stretching across the river from side to side for at least a quarter of a mile. Here, the river cascades over a sloping rock, with an edge as regular and straight as if crafted by art, without a notch or break in it; the water descends in one even and uninterrupted sheet to the bottom, where it crashes against the rocky base, rising into foaming waves and quickly flowing away, hissing, flashing, and sparkling as it departs. The spray rises from one end to the other up to 50 feet. I thought that if a skilled painter were asked to create a beautiful cascade, he would probably have drawn this exact one. I couldn’t decide which of these two great waterfalls deserved the praise; this one seemed pleasingly beautiful, while the other was sublimely grand. I had barely taken my eyes off this lovely sight when I spotted another fall half a mile away. Tempted, I didn’t even consider turning back and hurried to check out this newly discovered feature. I found this to be a cascade of about 14 feet, with a vertical drop of about 6 feet. This one was quite orderly, stretching across the river from bank to bank where it was about a quarter of a mile wide. In any other area, this cascade would probably be praised for its beauty and magnificence, but here I barely noticed it, deciding that since I had come this far, I might as well continue to the head of the rapids, even if it took me all night. At every rapid, waterfall, and cascade, I noticed that the bluffs were getting lower, or the riverbed was rising closer to the level of the plains. I kept following the river southwest, passing a continuous series of rapids and small cascades. After 2.5 miles, I reached another cataract of 26 feet. This one isn’t completely vertical; about a third of its drop has a rock that juts out slightly, catching the water on its way down and creating a curve in the flow, though it falls mostly in a smooth sheet. The river is nearly six hundred yards wide here, with a lovely level plain on the south side, only a few feet above the level of the drop. On the north side, where I am, the land is more rugged, and just behind me, near the river, is a high hill. Below this drop, a little further down, there’s a beautiful little island well-covered in timber, located about in the middle of the river. On this island, an eagle has made her nest in a cottonwood tree; I believe she couldn’t have chosen a more inaccessible spot because neither man nor beast would dare cross those cliffs that separate her small domain from the shores. The water also is broken in such a way as it cascades over the drop that mist or spray rises to a considerable height. This fall is certainly the greatest I have ever seen except for the two I mentioned earlier. It is incomparably a grander waterfall and a more noble, interesting sight than the famous falls of the Potomac or Susquehanna, etc. Just above this is another cascade of about 5 feet, above which the water, as far as I could see, started to lose its velocity. So, I decided to climb the hill behind me, which promised a wonderful view of the surrounding area. I was not disappointed when I reached the top. From there, I looked out over a beautiful and extensive plain that reached from the river to the base of the snow-clad mountains to the south and southwest. I also observed the Missouri stretching its winding course south through this plain for a great distance, filled to its grassy brim. Another large river flowed in on its western side about four miles above me, extending through a level and fertile valley about three miles wide, made more noticeable by the trees that lined its banks. In these plains, particularly in the valley just below me, immense herds of buffalo were grazing. Just above this hill, the Missouri makes a bend to the south, where it flows in a smooth, even, unruffled sheet of water nearly a mile wide, bearing vast flocks of geese that feed at leisure in the delightful pastures on either side. The young geese are now fully feathered, except for their wings, which are still lacking in both the young and the old. After enjoying this captivating view and resting for a few minutes, I decided to head toward the river I saw flowing into the west side of the Missouri, convinced it was the river the Indians call Medicine River, which they told us joins the Missouri just above the falls. I descended the hills and made my way to the bend of the Missouri, near which there was a herd of at least a thousand buffalo. Here, I thought it would be a good idea to kill a buffalo and leave it until I returned from the river. If I found that I didn’t have time to get back to camp that evening, I could stay the night since there were a few pieces of driftwood along the shore for my fire and some scattered cottonwood trees a few hundred yards down that would provide at least a semblance of shelter. With this in mind, I chose a fat buffalo and shot him well, hitting him through the lungs. While I was intently watching the poor animal bleeding from his mouth and nostrils, expecting him to fall any second, I completely forgot to reload my rifle. A large white, or rather brown bear, had noticed me and crept up to within 20 steps before I realized it. At that moment, I raised my gun to shoot, but I quickly remembered it wasn't loaded and that he was too close for me to hope to load it before he reached me, as he was quickly advancing toward me. I was in an open, level plain with no bushes within miles, nor trees closer than three hundred yards away. The riverbank sloped down and was only about three feet above the water level; in short, there was no way to hide from this monster until I could reload my rifle. In this predicament, I thought about retreating briskly, walking as fast as he was coming until I could reach a tree about 300 yards below me. But as soon as I turned, he charged at me, mouth open and running full speed. I ran about 80 yards and realized he was gaining on me. So, I ran into the water, thinking to get in deep enough so I could stand, and he would have to swim; in that case, I could defend myself with my espontoon. I quickly waded into the water until it was about waist-deep, turned around, and pointed my espontoon at him. Just then, he reached the water’s edge, about 20 feet away from me. The moment I took this defensive stance, he suddenly turned as if frightened, declined to fight on such unequal terms, and retreated as quickly as he had chased me. Once I saw him run off like that, I went back to the shore and reloaded my gun, which I had kept in my hand throughout this strange encounter. I watched him sprint through the open plain for about three miles until he disappeared into the woods by Medicine River. All the while, he was running at full speed, occasionally looking back as if he expected someone to chase him. Now I began to reflect on this unusual occurrence and tried to make sense of the bear’s sudden retreat. At first, I thought that maybe he hadn’t smelled me before he got so close to the water, but then I realized he had followed me for about 80 or 90 yards before I entered the water. Examining the ground, I noticed tracks made by his claws right where my footprints were. The cause of his alarm remains a mystery to me. So it was, and I felt quite relieved that he had backed down from the fight. With my gun reloaded, I regained my confidence and was determined to stick to my plan of visiting Medicine River. I promised myself never to let my rifle go unloaded for more than the necessary time it took to recharge it. I crossed the plain nearly in the direction the bear had run toward Medicine River, finding it to be a lovely stream about 200 yards wide with a gentle current that appeared deep, its waters clear and its banks, primarily composed of dark brown and blue clay, standing about the same height as the Missouri's, roughly 3 to 5 feet high. Yet, they didn’t appear to flood, which I didn’t expect so close to the mountains, where I thought sudden, immense torrents would occur during certain times of the year. But the reverse is absolutely true. I am therefore led to believe that the snowy mountains release their waters slowly, impacted each day only by the sun, and are never suddenly melted by heavy rain showers.
having examined Medecine river I now determined to return, having by my estimate about 12 miles to walk. I looked at my watch and found it was half after six P.M.—in returning through the level bottom of Medecine river and about 200 yards distant from the Missouri, my direction led me directly to an anamal that I at first supposed was a wolf; but on nearer approach or about sixty paces distant I discovered that it was not, it's colour was a brownish yellow; it was standing near it's burrow, and when I approached it thus nearly, it couched itself down like a cat looking immediately at me as if it designed to spring on me. I took aim at it and fired, it instantly disappeared in it's burrow; I loaded my gun and exmined the place which was dusty and saw the track from which I am still further convinced that it was of the tiger kind. whether I struck it or not I could not determine, but I am almost confident that I did; my gun is true and I had a steady rest by means of my espontoon, which I have found very serviceable to me in this way in the open plains. It now seemed to me that all the beasts of the neighbourhood had made a league to distroy me, or that some fortune was disposed to amuse herself at my expence, for I had not proceded more than three hundred yards from the burrow of this tyger cat, before three bull buffaloe, which wer feeding with a large herd about half a mile from me on my left, seperated from the herd and ran full speed towards me, I thought at least to give them some amusement and altered my direction to meet them; when they arrived within a hundred yards they mad a halt, took a good view of me and retreated with precipitation. I then continued my rout homewards passed the buffaloe which I had killed, but did not think it prudent to remain all night at this place which really from the succession of curious adventures wore the impression on my mind of inchantment; at sometimes for a moment I thought it might be a dream, but the prickley pears which pierced my feet very severely once in a while, particularly after it grew dark, convinced me that I was really awake, and that it was necessary to make the best of my way to camp. it was sometime after dark before I returned to the party; I found them extremely uneasy for my safety; they had formed a thousand conjectures, all of which equally forboding my death, which they had so far settled among them, that they had already agreed on the rout which each should take in the morning to surch for me. I felt myself much fortiegued, but eat a hearty supper and took a good night's rest.—the weather being warm I had left my leather over shirt and had woarn only a yellow flannin one.
After examining the Medicine River, I decided to head back, estimating that I had about 12 miles to walk. I looked at my watch and saw it was half past six in the evening. As I made my way through the flat area by the Medicine River, around 200 yards away from the Missouri, I noticed an animal that I initially thought was a wolf. But as I got closer, about sixty paces away, I realized it wasn’t; its color was a brownish yellow. It was near its burrow and, when I got close, it crouched down like a cat, staring at me as though it was ready to pounce. I aimed my gun and fired, but it quickly disappeared into its burrow. I reloaded my gun and checked the area, which was dusty, and saw tracks confirming it was likely a type of tiger. I couldn’t tell if I hit it or not, but I was almost sure I did; my gun is accurate, and I had a steady rest with my espontoon, which has been very useful for me in the open plains. It felt like all the animals around had teamed up to harm me, or that fortune was toying with me, because I hadn’t gone more than three hundred yards from that tiger cat's burrow when three bull buffalo, who were grazing with a large herd about half a mile to my left, broke away and charged straight at me. Thinking they might provide some amusement, I changed my path to intercept them. When they got within a hundred yards, they stopped, took a good look at me, and then quickly backed off. I continued on my way home, passing the buffalo I had killed, but decided it wasn’t wise to stay there overnight, as the series of strange events left me feeling enchanted. For a moment, I even wondered if it was all a dream, but the prickly pears that jabbed into my feet, especially after dark, convinced me that I was awake and that I needed to get back to camp. It was quite a while after dark before I returned to the group, who were very worried about my safety. They had imagined all sorts of scenarios, all foreboding my death, and had already agreed on the routes they would take in the morning to search for me. I felt really exhausted but ate a hearty supper and got a good night’s rest. Since the weather was warm, I had left my leather overshirt behind and was just wearing a yellow flannel one.
[Clark, June 14, 1805]
June 14th Friday 1805 a fine morning, the Indian woman complaining all night & excessively bad this morning—her case is Somewhat dangerous—two men with the Tooth ake 2 with Turners, & one man with a Tumor & Slight fever passed the Camp Capt. Lewis made the 1st night at which place he had left part of two bear their skins &c three men with Turners went on shore and Staycd out all night one of them killed 2 buffalow, a part of which we made use of for brackfast, the Current excesevely rapid more So as we assend we find great difficuelty in getting the Perogue & Canoes up in Safety, Canoes take in water frequently, at 4 oClock this evening Jo. Fields returned from Capt. Lewis with a letter for me, Capt Lewis dates his letter from the Great falls of the Missouri, which Fields informs me is about 20 miles in advance & about 10 miles above the place I left the river the time I was up last week Capt. L. informs that those falls; in part answer the discription given of them by the Indians, much higher the Eagles nest which they describe is there, from those Signs he is Convinced of this being the river the Indians call the Missouri, he intends examineing the river above untill my arrival at a point from which we can make a portage, which he is apprehensive will be at least 5 miles & both above & below there is Several Small pitches, & Swift troubled water we made only 10 miles to day and Camped on the Lard Side, much hard Slate in the Clifts & but a Small quantity of timber.
June 14th, Friday, 1805: It was a beautiful morning, but the Indian woman was complaining all night and felt really bad this morning—her situation is somewhat dangerous. Two men had toothaches, two had Turner’s syndrome, and one man had a tumor and a slight fever. They passed our camp. Captain Lewis spent the first night at a place where he left part of two bear skins and other supplies. Three men with Turner’s syndrome went ashore and stayed out all night; one of them killed two buffalo, part of which we used for breakfast. The current is extremely rapid, and as we go upstream, we find it very difficult to safely get the pirogue and canoes up. The canoes frequently take on water. At 4 o'clock this evening, Jo. Fields returned from Captain Lewis with a letter for me. Captain Lewis dated his letter from the Great Falls of the Missouri, which Fields tells me is about 20 miles ahead and about 10 miles upstream from where I left the river last week. Captain Lewis mentions that these falls somewhat match the description given by the Indians; the Eagles' Nest they describe is there. From these signs, he is convinced this is the river the Indians call the Missouri. He plans to examine the river upstream until I reach a point where we can make a portage, which he fears will be at least 5 miles. Both above and below there are several small rapids and fast-moving water. We covered only 10 miles today and camped on the left side, where there’s a lot of hard slate in the cliffs and only a small amount of timber.
[Lewis, June 15, 1805]
Saturday June 15th 1805. This morning the men again were sent to bring in some more meat which Drewyer had killed yesterday, and continued the opperation of drying it. I amused myself in fishing, and sleeping away the fortiegues of yesterday. I caught a number of very fine trout which I made Goodrich dry; goodrich also caught about two douzen and several small cat of a yellow colour which would weigh about 4 lbs. the tails was seperated with a deep angular nitch like that of the white cat of the missouri from which indeed they differed only in colour. when I awoke from my sleep today I found a large rattlesnake coiled on the leaning trunk of a tree under the shade of which I had been lying at the distance of about ten feet from him. I killed the snake and found that he had 176 scuta on the abdomen and i'7 half formed scuta on the tale; it was of the same kinde which I had frequently seen before; they do not differ in their colours from the rattle snake common to the middle attlantic states, but considerably in the form and figures of those colours. This evening after dark Joseph Fields returned and informed me that Capt Clark had arrived with the party at the foot of a rappid about 5 miles below which he did not think proper to ascend and would wait my arrival there. I had discovered from my journey yesterday that a portage on this side of the river will be attended by much difficulty in consequence of several deep ravines which intersect the plains nearly at right angles with the river to a considerable distance, while the South side appears to be a delighfull smoth unbroken plain; the bearings of the river also make it pobable that the portage will be shorter on that side than on this.—I directed Fields to return early in the morning to Capt. C. and request him to send up a party of men for the dryed meat which we had made. I finde a very heavy due on the grass about my camp every morning which no doubt procedes from the mist of the falls, as it takes place no where in the plains nor on the river except here.
Saturday, June 15th, 1805. This morning, the men were once again sent out to collect more meat that Drewyer had killed yesterday, and they continued the process of drying it. I passed the time fishing and catching up on sleep from yesterday's fatigue. I caught several nice trout, which I had Goodrich dry; Goodrich also caught about two dozen and several small yellow catfish weighing around 4 lbs. Their tails had a distinct deep angular notch, similar to that of the white catfish from the Missouri, differing only in color. When I woke up from my nap today, I discovered a large rattlesnake coiled on the leaning trunk of a tree only about ten feet away from where I had been lying. I killed the snake and found that it had 176 scales on its abdomen and 17 half-formed scales on its tail; it was the same type I had seen many times before. They don't differ in color from the rattlesnakes common to the Middle Atlantic states, but they do vary in the shapes and patterns of those colors. This evening, after dark, Joseph Fields returned and informed me that Captain Clark had arrived with the group at the bottom of a rapid about five miles downstream, which he didn’t think was appropriate to navigate, and would wait for my arrival there. From my journey yesterday, I discovered that a portage on this side of the river would be quite difficult due to several deep ravines that intersect the plains nearly at right angles to the river for a considerable distance, while the south side appears to be a pleasant, smooth, unbroken plain. The layout of the river also suggests that the portage will be shorter on that side than on this one. I instructed Fields to head back early in the morning to Captain Clark and ask him to send a group of men for the dried meat we had prepared. I find that there is a heavy dew on the grass around my camp every morning, which surely comes from the mist of the falls, as it does not occur anywhere else in the plains or along the river except here.
[Clark, June 15, 1805]
June the 15th Satturday 1805 a fair morning and worm, we Set out at the usial time and proceeded on with great dificuelty as the river is more rapid we can hear the falls this morning verry distinctly—our Indian woman Sick &low Spirited I gave her the bark & apply it exteranaly to her region which revived her much. the curt. excessively rapid and dificuelt to assend great numbers of dangerous places, and the fatigue which we have to encounter is incretiatable the men in the water from morning untill night hauling the Cord & boats walking on Sharp rocks and round Sliperery Stones which alternately cut their feet & throw them down, not with Standing all this dificuelty they go with great chearfulness, aded to those dificuelties the rattle Snakes inumerable & require great caution to prevent being bitten.—we passed a Small river on the Lard Side about 30 yards wide verry rapid which heads in the mountains to the S. E. I Sent up this river 5 miles, it has Some timber in its bottoms and a fall of 15 feet at one place, above this river the bluffs are of red earth mixed with Stratums of black Stone, below this little river, we pass a white clay which mixes with water like flour in every respect, the Indian woman much wors this evening, She will not take any medison, her husband petetions to return &c., river more rapid late in the evening we arrived at a rapid which appeared So bad that I did not think it prudent to attempt passing of it this evening as it was now late, we Saw great numbers of Gees Ducks, Crows Blackbirds &c Geese & Ducks with their young. after Landing I detached Joseph Fields to Capt. Lewis to let him know where I was &c river rises a little this evening we could not get a Sufficency of wood for our use
June 15th, Saturday, 1805, a nice warm morning. We set out at the usual time and moved on with great difficulty as the river is becoming more rapid. We can hear the falls very clearly this morning. Our Indian woman is sick and low-spirited, so I gave her some bark and applied it externally to help her, which revived her a lot. The current is extremely swift and challenging to navigate, with many dangerous spots. The fatigue we’re facing is incredible. The men have been in the water from morning until night, hauling the cord and boats, walking on sharp rocks and slippery stones that cut their feet and sometimes send them tumbling. Despite these challenges, they maintain a great spirit. On top of all this, there are countless rattlesnakes, so we have to be very careful to avoid getting bitten. We passed a small river on the left side, about 30 yards wide and very rapid, which comes from the mountains to the southeast. I sent up this river for 5 miles; it has some timber in its banks and a 15-foot drop in one place. Above this river, the cliffs are made of red earth mixed with layers of black stone. Below this small river, we passed through white clay that mixes with water like flour in every way. The Indian woman is much worse this evening; she won’t take any medicine, and her husband is asking to go back, etc. The river is even more rapid. Late in the evening, we reached a rapid that looked so treacherous that I didn’t think it was wise to try to pass it tonight since it was already late. We saw lots of geese, ducks, crows, blackbirds, etc., along with geese and ducks with their young. After landing, I sent Joseph Fields to Captain Lewis to let him know where I was, etc. The river rose a little this evening, and we couldn’t gather enough wood for our needs.
[Lewis, June 16, 1805]
Sunday June 16th 1805 J. Fields set out early on his return to the lower camp, at noon the men arrived and shortly after I set out with them to rejoin the party. we took with us the dryed meat consisting of about 600 lbs. and several douzen of dryed trout. about 2 P.M. I reached the camp found the Indian woman extreemly ill and much reduced by her indisposition. this gave me some concern as well for the poor object herself, then with a young child in her arms, as from the consideration of her being our only dependence for a friendly negociation with the Snake Indians on whom we depend for horses to assist us in our portage from the Missouri to the columbia River. I now informed Capt. C. of my discoveries with rispect to the most proper side for our portage, and of it's great length, which I could not estimate at less than 16 miles. Capt. C. had already sent two men this morning to examine the country on the S. side of the river; he now passed over with the party to that side and fixed a camp about a mile blow the entrance of a Creek where there was a sufficient quantity of wood for fuel, an article which can be obtained but in few places in this neighbourhood. after discharging the loads four of the canoes were sent back to me, which by means of strong ropes we hawled above the rappid and passed over to the south side from whence the water not being rappid we can readily convey them into the creek by means of which we hope to get them on the high plain with more ease. one of the small canoes was left below this rappid in order to pass and repass the river for the purpose of hunting as well as to procure the water of the Sulpher spring, the virtues of which I now resolved to try on the Indian woman. this spring is situated about 200 yards from the Missouri on the N. E. side nearly opposite to the entrance of a large creek; it discharges itself into the Missouri over a precepice of rock about 25 feet, forming a pretty little ____ the water is as transparent as possible strongly impregnated with sulpher, and I suspect Iron also, as the colour of the hills and bluffs in the neighbourhood indicate the existence of that metal. the water to all appearance is precisely similar to that of Bowyer's Sulpher spring in Virginia. Capt. Clark determined to set out in the morning to examine and survey the portage, and discover the best rout. as the distance was too great to think of transporting the canoes and baggage on the men's shoulders, we scelected six men, and ordered them to look out some timber this evening, and early in the morning to set about making a parsel of truck wheels in order to convey our canoes and baggage over the portage. we determined to leave the white perogue at this place, and substitute the Iron boat, and also to make a further deposit of a part of our stores. in the evening the men who had been sent out to examine the country and made a very unfavourable report. they informed us that the creek just above us and two deep ravenes still higher up cut the plain between the river and mountain in such a manner, that in their opinions a portage for the canoes on this side was impracticable. good or bad we must make the portage. notwithstanding this report I am still convinced from the view I had of the country the day before yesterday that a good portage may be had on this side at least much better than on the other, and much nearer also. I found that two dozes of barks and opium which I had given her since my arrival had produced an alteration in her pulse for the better; they were now much fuller and more regular. I caused her to drink the mineral water altogether. wen I first came down I found that her pulse were scarcely perceptible, very quick frequently irregular and attended with strong nervous symptoms, that of the twitching of the fingers and leaders of the arm; now the pulse had become regular much fuller and a gentle perspiration had taken place; the nervous symptoms have also in a great measure abated, and she feels herself much freeer from pain. she complains principally of the lower region of the abdomen, I therefore continued the cataplasms of barks and laudnumn which had been previously used by my friend Capt Clark. I beleive her disorder originated principally from an obstruction of the mensis in consequence of taking could.—I determined to remain at this camp in order to make some celestial observations, restore the sick woman, and have all matters in a state of readiness to commence the portage immediately on the return of Capt. Clark, who now furnished me with the dayly occurrences which had taken place with himself and party since our seperation which I here enter in his own words.
Sunday, June 16th, 1805: J. Fields left early to head back to the lower camp. By noon, the men arrived, and shortly after, I set out with them to rejoin the group. We took with us the dried meat, which weighed about 600 lbs, and several dozen dried trout. Around 2 P.M., I reached the camp and found the Indian woman extremely ill and weakened by her condition. This worried me not just for her sake, especially with a young child in her arms, but also because she was our only hope for a friendly negotiation with the Snake Indians, who we relied on for horses to help us transport our gear from the Missouri to the Columbia River. I informed Capt. C. about my findings regarding the best side for our portage and its significant distance, which I estimated to be no less than 16 miles. Capt. C. had already sent two men this morning to explore the area on the south side of the river. He then crossed over with the team and set up a camp about a mile below the entrance of a creek, where there was enough wood for fuel, something that is hard to find in this area. After unloading the canoes, four of them were sent back to me. Using strong ropes, we pulled them past the rapid and over to the south side, where the water wasn't as fast, allowing us to easily transport them into the creek, through which we hope to move them onto the high plain more easily. One of the smaller canoes was left below this rapid to ferry back and forth across the river for hunting and to gather water from the sulfur spring. I decided to try the spring's healing properties on the Indian woman. This spring is located about 200 yards from the Missouri on the northeast side, almost directly opposite a large creek; it cascades into the Missouri over a cliff of rock about 25 feet high, creating a lovely little waterfall. The water is crystal clear, strongly infused with sulfur, and I suspect it also contains iron, as indicated by the color of the nearby hills and bluffs. The water looks very similar to Bowyer's Sulfur Spring in Virginia. Capt. Clark planned to leave in the morning to evaluate and map out the portage and find the best route. Since the distance was too great to consider carrying the canoes and supplies on the men's backs, we selected six men and instructed them to find some timber this evening and begin making a set of wheeled carts in the morning to transport our canoes and baggage over the portage. We decided to leave the white pirogue here and replace it with the iron boat, as well as store some of our supplies. In the evening, the men sent out to scout the area reported back with a very unfavorable update. They told us that the creek just above us and two deep ravines further up cut through the plain between the river and the mountains in such a way that they thought a portage for the canoes on this side was impossible. Regardless of the situation, we needed to make the portage. Despite their report, I still believe based on what I saw of the area the day before yesterday that a good portage is possible on this side, at least much better and closer than the alternative. I found that the two doses of bark and opium I had given her since my arrival had improved her pulse; it was now much stronger and more regular. I had her drink the mineral water entirely. When I first arrived, I noticed her pulse was barely detectable, very fast, often irregular, and she showed strong nervous symptoms including twitching fingers and limbs. Now, her pulse had become regular and fuller, and she was lightly sweating; the nervous symptoms had greatly decreased, and she felt much less pain. She mainly complained about discomfort in the lower abdomen, so I continued applying the poultices of bark and laudanum that my friend Capt. Clark had previously used. I believe her illness mainly stemmed from a blockage in her menstrual cycle due to exposure to cold. I decided to stay at this camp to make some celestial observations, help the sick woman recover, and ensure everything was ready to start the portage as soon as Capt. Clark returned, who provided me with daily updates on his and his team's activities since our separation, which I’ll note here in his own words.
[Clark, June 16, 1805]
June 16th of Sunday 1805 Some rain last night a cloudy morning wind hard from the S. W. we Set out passed the rapid by double manning the Perogue & Canoes and halted at 1/4 of a mile to examine the rapids above, which I found to be an Continued Cascade for as far as could be Seen which was about 2 miles, I walked up on the Lard Side as high as a large Creek, which falls in on the Lard. Side one mile above & opposit a large Sulpher Spring which falls over the rocks on the Std. Side the wind rored from the S. W. hard & Some rain, at about 2 oClock Capt Lewis joined me from the falls 5 miles distant, & infd. that the Lard Side was the best portage I despatched 2 men this morning on the Lard. Side to examine the portage.—the Indian woman verry bad, & will take no medisin what ever, untill her husband finding her out of her Senses, easyly provailed on her to take medison, if She dies it will be the fault of her husband as I am now convinced-. we crossed the river after part of the day and formed a Camp from which we intended to make the first portage, Capt. Lewis stayed on the Std Side to direct the Canoes over the first riffle 4 of them passed this evening the others unloaded & part of the Perogue Loading taken out—I deturmined to examine & Survey the Portage find a leavel rout if possible—The 2 men despatched to examine the Portage gave an unfavourable account of the Countrey, reporting that the Creek & 2 deep reveens cut the Prarie in such a manner between the river and mountain as to render a portage in their oppinion for the Canoes impossible—we Selected 6 men to make wheels & to draw the Canoes on as the distance was probably too far for to be caried on the mens Sholders
June 16th, Sunday, 1805. We had some rain last night and a cloudy morning with a strong wind coming from the southwest. We set out, passed the rapids by double manning the pirogue and canoes, and stopped after a quarter of a mile to check out the rapids ahead. I found that the rapids continued as a cascade for as far as I could see, which was about two miles. I walked up the left side until I reached a large creek that flows in on that side, about a mile above, opposite a large sulfur spring that spills over the rocks on the right side. The wind howled hard from the southwest, and there was some rain. Around 2 o'clock, Captain Lewis joined me from the falls, five miles away, and informed me that the left side was the best for portaging. I sent two men this morning along the left side to check the portage. The Indian woman was in very bad shape and refused to take any medicine until her husband, noticing she was out of her senses, persuaded her to take some. If she dies, it'll be her husband's fault, as I am now convinced. We crossed the river later in the day and set up camp from which we planned to make the first portage. Captain Lewis stayed on the right side to guide the canoes over the first riffle; four of them made it across this evening, while the others were unloaded, and part of the pirogue’s load was taken out. I decided to examine and survey the portage to find a level route, if possible. The two men sent to inspect the portage came back with an unfavorable report, stating that the creek and two deep ravines cut the prairie in such a way between the river and the mountains that they considered a canoe portage impossible. We selected six men to make wheels and pull the canoes since the distance was probably too far to carry them on their shoulders.
[Lewis, June 17, 1805]
Monday June 17th 1805. Capt. Clark set out early this morning with five men to examine the country and survey the river and portage as had been concerted last evening. I set six men at work to pepare four sets of truck wheels with couplings, toungs and bodies, that they might either be used without the bodies for transporting our canoes, or with them in transporting our baggage I found that the Elk skins I had prepared for my boat were insufficient to compleat her, some of them having become dammaged by the weather and being frequently wet; to make up this deficiency I sent out two hunters this morning to hunt Elk; the ballance of the party I employed first in unloading the white perogue, which we intend leaving at this place, and bring the whole of our baggage together and arranging it in proper order near our camp. this duty being compleated I employed them in taking five of the small canoes up the creek which we now call portage creek about 13/4 miles; here I had them taken out and lyed in the sun to dry. from this place ther is a gradual ascent to the top of the high plain to which we can now take them with ease; the bluffs of this creek below and those of the river above it's entrance are so steep that it would be almost impracticable to have gotten them on the plain. we found much difficulty in geting the canoes up this creek to the distance we were compelled to take them, in consequence of the rappids and rocks which obstruct the channel of the creek. one of the canoes overset and was very near injuring 2 men essencially. just above the canoes the creek has a perpendicular fall of 5 feet and the cliffts again become very steep and high. we were fortunate enough to find one cottonwood tree just below the entrance of portage creek that was large enough to make our carrage wheels about 22 Inches in diameter; fortunate I say because I do not beleive that we could find another of the same size perfectly sound within 20 miles of us. the cottonwood which we are obliged to employ in the other parts of the work is extreemly illy calculated for it being soft and brittle. we have made two axeltrees of the mast of the white peroge, which I hope will answer tolerably well tho it is reather small. The Indian woman much better today, I have still continued the same course of medecine; she is free from pain clear of fever, her pulse regular, and eats as heartily as I am willing to permit her of broiled buffaloe well seasoned with pepper and salt and rich soope of the same meat; I think therefore that there is every rational hope of her recovery. saw a vast number of buffaloe feeding in every direction arround us in the plains, others coming down in large herds to water at the river; the fragments of many carcases of these poor anamals daily pass down the river, thus mangled I pesume in decending those immence cataracts above us. as the buffaloe generally go in large herds to water and the passages to the river about the falls are narrow and steep the hinder part of the herd press those in front out of their debth and the water instatly takes them over the cataracts where they are instantly crushed to death without the possibility of escaping. in this manner I have seen ten or a douzen disappear in a few minutes. their mangled carcases ly along the shores below the falls in considerable quantities and afford fine amusement for the bear wolves and birds of prey; this may be one reason and I think not a bad one either that the bear are so tenatious of their right of soil in this neighbourhood.
Monday, June 17th, 1805. Capt. Clark set out early this morning with five men to explore the area and survey the river and portage as we had planned last night. I had six men work on preparing four sets of truck wheels with couplings, tongues, and bodies, so they could either be used without the bodies to transport our canoes or with them for our baggage. I discovered that the elk skins I had set aside for my boat weren't enough to finish her, as some had been damaged by the weather and got wet frequently; to make up for this shortfall, I sent out two hunters this morning to find elk. I assigned the rest of the group to first unload the white perogue, which we plan to leave here, and to gather all our baggage and organize it properly near our camp. Once this task was done, I had them take five small canoes up the creek we now call Portage Creek, about 1.75 miles. Here, I had them taken out and laid in the sun to dry. From this spot, there is a gentle rise to the top of the high plain, making it easy to move the canoes there now; the bluffs of this creek below and the river's bluffs above its entrance are so steep that it would have been nearly impossible to get them onto the plain. We encountered a lot of difficulty moving the canoes up the creek due to the rapids and rocks obstructing the channels. One of the canoes tipped over and nearly injured two men severely. Just above the canoes, the creek has a vertical drop of 5 feet, and the cliffs become very steep and high again. We were lucky to find one cottonwood tree just below the entrance of Portage Creek that was large enough to make our carriage wheels, about 22 inches in diameter; I say fortunate because I don't think we could find another of the same size, perfectly sound, within 20 miles of here. The cottonwood we have to use for other parts of the work is extremely unsuitable as it is soft and brittle. We made two axletrees from the mast of the white perogue, which I hope will work reasonably well, although it's a bit small. The Indian woman is much better today; I have continued the same course of medicine. She is free from pain, has no fever, her pulse is regular, and she eats as heartily as I allow her, with broiled buffalo seasoned with pepper and salt and rich soup made from the same meat. Therefore, I believe there’s every reason to hope for her recovery. I saw a huge number of buffalo grazing all around us in the plains, with others coming down in large herds to drink at the river; many carcasses of these poor animals pass down the river every day, presumably mangled as they go over the immense waterfalls above us. As buffalo generally move in large herds to water, and the paths to the river at the falls are narrow and steep, the back part of the herd pushes those in front out of their depth, and the water instantly carries them over the cataracts where they are crushed to death without any chance of escape. I've seen ten or a dozen disappear in just a few minutes like this. Their mangled carcasses lie along the shores below the falls in considerable quantities and provide great entertainment for bears, wolves, and birds of prey; this might be one reason, and I think a good one, why bears are so tenacious about their territory in this area.
[Clark, June 17, 1805]
June 17th Monday 1805 a fine morning wind as usial Capt. Lewis with the party unloaded the Perogue & he determined to keep the party employed in getting the loading to the Creek about 1 mile over a low hill in my absence on the Portage.
June 17th, Monday, 1805, a nice morning with the usual wind. Captain Lewis and the team unloaded the Perogue, and he decided to keep everyone busy transporting the load to the creek about a mile over a low hill while I was away on the portage.
I Set out with 5 men at 8 oClock, and proceeded on up the Creek Some distance to examine that & if possable assend that Suffcently high, that a Streight Cours to the mouth of Medison river would head the 2 reveins, the Creek I found Confined rapid and Shallow generalley
I set out with 5 men at 8 o'clock and traveled up the creek for some distance to check it out and, if possible, find a way to get high enough so that a straight route to the mouth of the Madison River would connect the two streams. I found the creek to be narrow, fast-flowing, and generally shallow.
Monday 17th of June passed through an open roleing Prarie, So as to head the two reveins after heading two we Stand our Course So as to Strike the river below the great pitch on our Course to the river Crossed a Deep rivein near its mouth with Steep Clifts this rivein had running water which was very fine, the river at this place is narrow & Confined in perpindicular clifts of 170 feet from the tops of those Clifts the Countrey rises with a Steep assent for about 250 feet more we proceeded up the river passing a Sucession of rapids & Cascades to the Falls, which we had herd for Several miles makeing a dedly Sound, I beheld those Cateracts with astonishment the whole of the water of this great river Confined in a Channel of 280 yards and pitching over a rock of 97 feet 3/4 of an, from the foot of the falls arrises a Continued mist which is extended for 150 yds. down & to near the top of the Clifts on L Sd. the river below is Confined a narrow Chanl. Of 93 yards haveing a Small bottom of timber on the Stard Side which is definded by a rock, rangeing Cross wise the river a little below the Shoot, a Short distance below this Cataract a large rock divides the Stream, I in assendending the Clifts to take the hith of the fall was near Slipping into the water, at which place I must have been Sucked under in an instant, and with deficuelty and great risque I assended again, and decended the Clift lower down (but few places Can be descended to the river) and took the hight with as much accuricy as possible with a Spirit Leavels &c. dined at a fine Spring 200 yards below the pitch near which place 4 Cotton willow trees grew. on one of them I marked my name the date, and hight of the falls,—we then proceeded up on the river passing a Continued Cascade & rapid to a fall of 19 feet at 4 Small Islands, this fall is diaguanally across the river from the Lard Side, forming an angle of 3/4 of the width from the Lard. from which Side it pitches for 2/3 of that distance. on the Stard Side is a rapid decline—below this Shoot a Deep revein falls in which we Camped for the night which was Cold (The mountains in every derection has Snow on Them) The plain to our left is leavel we Saw one Bear & inumerable numbers of Buffalow, I Saw 2 herds of those animals watering immediately above a considerable rapid, they decended by a narrow pass to the bottom Small, the rier forced those forwd into the water Some of which was taken down in an instant, and Seen no more others made Shore with difficuelty, I beheld 40 or 50 of those Swimming at the Same time those animals in this way are lost and accounts for the number of buffalow carcases below the rapids
Monday, June 17th, we traveled through an open rolling prairie to head towards the two streams. After reaching the two, we kept our course to hit the river below the big falls. We crossed a deep stream near its mouth, which had steep cliffs. This stream had clear running water, and at this spot, the river was narrow, confined by vertical cliffs that were 170 feet high. The land rises sharply from the top of those cliffs for about another 250 feet. We continued upstream, passing a succession of rapids and cascades to the falls, which we had heard from several miles away, making a thunderous sound. I looked at those cascades in awe, as all the water from this great river was funneled into a channel 280 yards wide, plummeting over a rock that was 97 feet high. From the base of the falls, a continuous mist rose, extending for 150 yards downstream and reaching nearly to the top of the cliffs on the left side. Below, the river was confined to a narrow channel of 93 yards, with a small patch of timber on the right side, defined by a rock that spanned the river just below the falls. Not far below this waterfall, a large rock split the stream. While climbing the cliffs to get a better view of the falls, I nearly slipped into the water, where I would have been pulled under instantly. With difficulty and great risk, I climbed back up and descended the cliffs further down (very few places could be accessed to the river) and took the measurements as accurately as possible using a spirit level, etc. We had lunch at a nice spring 200 yards below the falls, near which grew four cottonwood trees. On one of them, I carved my name, the date, and the height of the falls. We then continued upstream, passing a series of cascades and rapids to a drop of 19 feet at four small islands. This drop angled diagonally across the river from the left side, covering three-quarters of the width on that side and plunging for two-thirds of that distance. On the right side, there was a steep decline. Below this drop, a deep stream flowed in, where we camped for the night, which was cold (the mountains in every direction had snow on them). The plain to our left was flat, and we saw one bear and countless buffalo. I spotted two herds of these animals drinking just above a significant rapid; they descended through a narrow path to the bottom. The river pushed them into the water, some of which were swept away in an instant, never to be seen again, while others managed to reach shore with difficulty. I watched 40 or 50 of them swimming at the same time. This explains the number of buffalo carcasses below the rapids.
[Lewis, June 18, 1805]
Tuesday June 18th 1805. This morning I employed all hands in drawing the perogue on shore in a thick bunch of willow bushes some little distance below our camp; fastened her securely, drove out the plugs of the gage holes of her bottom and covered her with bushes and driftwood to shelter her from the sun. I now scelected a place for a cash and set tree men at work to complete it, and employed all others except those about the waggons, in overhawling airing and repacking our indian goods ammunition, provision and stores of every discription which required inspection. examined the frame of my Iron boat and found all the parts complete except one screw, which the ingenuity of Sheilds can readily replace, a resource which we have very frequent occasion for. about 12 O'Clk. the hunters returned; they had killed 10 deer but no Elk. I begin to fear that we shall have some difficulty in procuring skins for the boat. I wold prefer those of the Elk because I beleive them more durable and strong than those of the Buffaloe, and that they will not shrink so much in drying. we saw a herd of buffaloe come down to water at the sulpher spring this evening, I dispatched some hunters to kill some of them, and a man also for a cask of mineral water. the hunters soon killed two of them in fine order and returned with a good quantity of the flesh, having left the remainder in a situation that it will not spoil provided the wolves do not visit it. The waggons are completed this evening, and appear as if they would answer the purpose very well if the axetrees prove sufficiently strong. the wind blew violently this evening, as they frequently do in this open country where there is not a tree to brake or oppose their force. The Indian woman is recovering fast she set up the greater part of the day and walked out for the fist time since she arrived here; she eats hartily and is free from fever or pain. I continue same course of medecine and regimen except that I added one doze of 15 drops of the oil of vitriol today about noon.
Tuesday, June 18th, 1805. This morning, I had everyone working on dragging the canoe ashore into a thick clump of willow bushes a little way down from our camp; I secured it tightly, pulled out the plugs from the drainage holes in the bottom, and covered it with bushes and driftwood to protect it from the sun. I chose a spot to store supplies and put three men to work on that while I had everyone else, except those tending to the wagons, busy overhauling, airing out, and repacking our Indian goods, ammunition, provisions, and other supplies that needed inspection. I checked the frame of my iron boat and found all the parts were complete except for one screw, which Shields can easily replace—something we often need. Around noon, the hunters returned; they had killed ten deer but no elk. I'm starting to worry that we will have trouble getting skins for the boat. I would prefer elk skins because I believe they are more durable and stronger than buffalo skins and won’t shrink as much when drying. We saw a herd of buffalo come down to drink at the sulfur spring this evening, so I sent out some hunters to take down a few of them, along with a man to fetch a cask of mineral water. The hunters quickly managed to kill two buffalo in great condition and brought back a good amount of meat, leaving the rest in a place where it won't spoil, as long as the wolves don’t find it first. The wagons were finished this evening and seem like they will serve their purpose well if the axle trees are strong enough. The wind picked up fiercely this evening, as it often does in this open country without trees to break its force. The Indian woman is recovering quickly; she sat up for most of the day and walked outside for the first time since her arrival here. She's eating well and shows no signs of fever or pain. I’m continuing the same course of medicine and regimen, except I added a dose of 15 drops of oil of vitriol today around noon.
There is a species of goosberry which grows very common about here in open situations among the rocks on the sides of the clifts. they are now ripe of a pale red colour, about the size of a common goosberry. and like it is an ovate pericarp of soft pulp invelloping a number of smal whitish coloured seeds; the pulp is a yelloish slimy muselaginous substance of a sweetish and pinelike tast, not agreeable to me. the surface of the berry is covered with a glutinous adhesive matter, and the frut altho ripe retains it's withered corollar. this shrub seldom rises more than two feet high and is much branched, the leaves resemble those of the common goosberry only not so large; it has no thorns. the berry is supported by seperate peduncles or footstalks of half an inch in length. immence quantities of small grasshoppers of a brown colour in the plains, they no doubt contribute much to keep the grass as low as we find it which is not generally more than three inches, the grass is a narrow leaf, soft, and affords a fine pasture for the Buffaloe.-
There’s a type of gooseberry that grows quite commonly around here in open areas among the rocks on the cliffs. They’re currently ripe, a pale red color and about the size of a regular gooseberry. Like the regular gooseberry, it has an oval fruit with soft pulp surrounding several small whitish seeds; the pulp is a yellowish, slimy, gel-like substance with a sweet yet pine-like taste, which I don’t find pleasant. The surface of the berry is coated with a sticky, adhesive substance, and although the fruit is ripe, it still has its withered calyx. This shrub rarely grows more than two feet high and is very bushy; its leaves are similar to those of the common gooseberry but smaller, and it doesn’t have thorns. The berries hang from separate stems or stalks about half an inch long. There are huge numbers of small, brown grasshoppers in the plains, which likely play a big role in keeping the grass as short as we see it, usually no more than three inches. The grass has narrow, soft leaves and provides excellent pasture for the buffalo.
[Clark, June 18, 1805]
June 18th Tuesday 1805 we Set out early and arrived at the second great Cataract at about 200 yds above the last of 19 feet pitch—this is one of the grandest views in nature and by far exceeds any thing I ever Saw, the Missouri falling over a Shelveing rock for 47 feet 8 Inches with a Cascade &c of 14 feet 7 Inches above the Shoot for a 1/4 mile I decended the Clift below this Cateract with ease measured the hight of the purpendicular fall of 47 feet 8 Inches at which place the river is 473 yards wide as also the hight of the Cascade &c. a continuel mist quite across this fall* after which we proceeded on up the river a little more than a mile to the largest fountain or Spring I ever Saw, and doubt if it is not the largest in America Known, this water boils up from under th rocks near the edge of the river and falls imediately into the river 8 feet and keeps its Colour for 1/2 a mile which is emencely Clear and of a bluish Cast, proceeded on up the river passed a Succession of rapids to the next great fall of 26 Ft. 5 I. river 580 yards wide this fall is not intirely perpdincular a Short bench gives a Curve to the water as it falls a butifull Small Island at the foot of this fall near the Center of the Channel Covered with trees, the Missouri at this fall is 36 yards wide, a Considerable mist rises at this fall ocasionally, from this pitch to the head of the rapids is one mile & has a fall of 20 feet, this is also a handsome Scenery a fall in an open leavel plain, after takeing the hight & measureing the river proceeded on, Saw a gange of Buffalow Swiming the river above the falls, Several of which was drawn in to the rapids and with dificuelty mad Shore half drowned, we killed one of those Cows & took as much meat as we wished. emence herds of those animals in every direction, passed 2 groves in the Point just above the rapids & dined in one opposit the mouth of Medison River, which fails in on the Stard. Side and is 137 yards wide at its mouth the Missouri above is 800 yards wide, as the river Missouri appears to bear S Easterley I assended about 4 miles high to a Creek which appeared to head in South mountains passed a Island of ____ and a little timber in an Easterly bend at 1 mile, passed Some timber in a point at 2 mile at or near the lower point of a large Island on which we Shot at a large white bear. passed a Small Island in the middle and one close on the Lard Shore at 3 miles behind the head of which we Camped. those 3 Islands are all opposit, Soon after we Camped two ganges of Buffalow crossed one above & the other below we killed 7 of them & a calf and Saved as much of the best of the meat as we could this evening, one man A Willard going for a load of meat at 170 yards distance on an Island was attact by a white bear and verry near being Caught, prosued within 40 yards of Camp where I was with one man I collected 3 others of the party and prosued the bear (who had prosued my track from a buffalow I had killed on the Island at about 300 yards distance and chance to meet Willard) for fear of his attacking one man Colter at the lower point of the Island, before we had got down the bear had allarmed the man and prosued him into the water, at our approach he retreated, and we relieved the man in the water, I Saw the bear but the bushes was So thick that I could not Shoot him and it was nearly dark, the wind from the S W & Cool killed a beaver & an elk for their Skins this evening
June 18th, Tuesday, 1805, we set out early and arrived at the second great waterfall about 200 yards above the last one, which has a drop of 19 feet. This is one of the grandest views in nature and far exceeds anything I've ever seen. The Missouri River cascades over a ledge of rock for 47 feet 8 inches, with a 14-foot 7-inch cascade above the drop for a quarter mile. I easily descended the cliff below this waterfall and measured the height of the vertical fall at 47 feet 8 inches, where the river is 473 yards wide, as well as the height of the cascade. A constant mist spreads across this fall. After that, we continued up the river for a little over a mile to the largest spring I’ve ever seen, and I doubt it’s not the largest known in America. This water bubbles up from under the rocks near the river's edge and immediately falls 8 feet into the river, maintaining its color for half a mile, which is extremely clear with a bluish tint. We moved further up the river, passing a series of rapids to the next major fall of 26 feet 5 inches with the river 580 yards wide. This drop is not entirely vertical; a short ledge gives the water a curve as it falls. There’s a beautiful small island at the base of this fall near the center of the channel, covered with trees. At this fall, the Missouri is 36 yards wide, and a considerable mist occasionally rises. From this drop to the head of the rapids is one mile with a drop of 20 feet, which also offers scenic views in an open, level plain. After taking measurements, we continued on and saw a herd of buffalo swimming upstream past the falls, several of which were swept into the rapids and struggled to make it to shore, nearly drowning. We killed one of the cows and took as much meat as we wanted. Immense herds of these animals are spotted in every direction. We passed two groves in a point just above the rapids and had lunch in one opposite the mouth of the Madison River, which flows in on the starboard side and is 137 yards wide at its mouth. The Missouri above is 800 yards wide. As the Missouri River appears to head southeast, I ascended about 4 miles to a creek that seems to originate in the southern mountains, passing an island and a little timber in an easterly bend at 1 mile, and some timber at a point at 2 miles near the lower tip of a large island where we shot at a large white bear. We passed a small island in the middle and one close to the left bank at 3 miles, where we camped behind its head. These three islands are all opposite each other. Shortly after we camped, two herds of buffalo crossed—one above and the other below. We killed 7 of them and a calf, saving as much of the best meat as we could in the evening. One man, A Willard, went to get a load of meat 170 yards away on an island when he was attacked by a white bear and was nearly caught. The bear chased him right up to our camp, where I was with another man. I gathered three more members of our party to pursue the bear, which had followed my tracks from a buffalo I had killed about 300 yards away and happened to encounter Willard. I worried it would attack Colter, who was at the lower tip of the island. By the time we arrived, the bear had scared the man and chased him into the water. Upon our approach, the bear retreated, allowing us to rescue the man in the water. I saw the bear, but the bushes were so thick that I couldn’t shoot him, and it was almost dark. The wind from the southwest was cool. That evening, I killed a beaver and an elk for their skins.
[Lewis, June 19, 1805]
Wednesday June 19th 1805. This morning I sent over several men for the meat which was killed yesterday, a few hours after they returned with it, the wolves had not discovered it. I also dispatched George Drewyer Reubin Fields and George Shannon on the North side of the Missouri with orders to proceed to the entrance of Medecine river and indeavour to kill some Elk in that neigh-bourhood. as there is more timber on that river than the Missouri I expect that the Elk are more plenty. The cash completed today. The wind blew violently the greater part of the day. the Indian woman was much better this morning she walked out and gathered a considerable quantity of the white apples of which she eat so heartily in their raw state, together with a considerable quantity of dryed fish without my knowledge that she complained very much and her fever again returned. I rebuked Sharbono severely for suffering her to indulge herself with such food he being privy to it and having been previously told what she must only eat. I now gave her broken dozes of diluted nitre untill it produced perspiration and at 10 P.M. 30 drops of laudnum which gave her a tolerable nights rest. I amused myself in fishing several hours today and caught a number of both species of the white fish, but no trout nor Cat. I employed the men in making up our baggage in proper packages for transportation; and waxed the stoppers of my powder canesters anew. had the frame of my Iron boat clensed of rust and well greased. in the evening the men mended their mockersons and preparedthemselves for the portage. After dark my dog barked very much and seemed extreemly uneasy which was unusual with him; I ordered the sergt. of the guard to reconniter with two men, thinking it possible that some Indians might be about to pay us a visit, or perhaps a white bear; he returned soon after & reported that he believed the dog had been baying a buffaloe bull which had attempted to swim the river just above our camp but had been beten down by the stream landed a little below our camp on the same side & run off.
Wednesday, June 19th, 1805. This morning, I sent several men to collect the meat that was killed yesterday. A few hours after they returned with it, the wolves hadn’t discovered it. I also sent George Drewyer, Reubin Fields, and George Shannon to the north side of the Missouri with orders to head to the entrance of Medicine River and try to hunt some elk in that area since there is more timber along that river than the Missouri, and I expect there will be more elk there. The cash was completed today. The wind blew fiercely for most of the day. The Indian woman was feeling much better this morning; she walked out and gathered a good amount of white apples, which she ate heartily raw, along with a fair amount of dried fish without my knowledge. Unfortunately, she complained a lot afterward, and her fever returned. I scolded Sharbono severely for letting her indulge in that food when he knew she had been told what she could eat. I then gave her small doses of diluted nitre until it made her sweat, and at 10 P.M., I gave her 30 drops of laudanum, which provided her with a decent night’s rest. I spent several hours fishing today and caught a number of both species of whitefish, but no trout or catfish. I had the men package our supplies for transport and rewaxed the stoppers of my powder canisters. I had the frame of my iron boat cleaned of rust and well-greased. In the evening, the men repaired their moccasins and got ready for the portage. After dark, my dog was barking a lot and seemed unusually restless; I ordered the sergeant of the guard to scout with two men, thinking it was possible that some Indians might be about to visit us, or perhaps a white bear. He returned shortly and reported that he believed the dog had been barking at a buffalo bull that had tried to swim across the river just above our camp but had been swept downstream and landed a little below our camp on the same side, then ran off.
[Clark, June 19, 1805]
June 19th Wednesday 1805 We went on the Island to hunt the White bear this morning but Could not find him, after plotting my Courses &c. I deturmined to dry the meat we killed and leave here, and proceed up the river as far as it bent to the S. E. and examine a Small Creek above our Camp, I Set out and found the Creek only Contained back water for 1 mile up, ascend near the Missouri 3 miles to the bend, from which place it turnd. Westerly, from this bend I with 2 men went forward towards the Camp of the party to examine the best ground for the portage, the little Creek has verry extencive bottoms which Spread out into a varriety of leavl rich bottoms quite to the mountains to the East, between those bottoms is hills low and Stoney on this declivity where it is Steep. I returned to Camp late and deturmined that the best nearest and most eassy rout would be from the lower part of the 3rd or white bear Island, the wind all this day blew violently hard from the S W. off the Snowey mountains, Cool, in my last rout I lost a part of my notes which could not be found as the wind must have blown them to a great distance. Summer duck Setting great numbers of buffalow all about our Camp
June 19th, Wednesday, 1805 We went to the island to hunt the white bear this morning but couldn’t find him. After mapping out my course, I decided to dry the meat we killed and leave it here, then proceed up the river as far as it bent southeast to check out a small creek above our camp. I set out and found the creek only had backwater for about a mile. I ascended near the Missouri for three miles to the bend, from which it turned westerly. From this bend, I went forward with two men toward the camp of the party to look for the best ground for the portage. The little creek has extensive bottoms that spread out into a variety of rich, level land all the way to the mountains to the east. Between these bottoms are low, stony hills on this steep slope. I returned to camp late and determined that the best and easiest route would be from the lower part of the third or white bear island. The wind blew violently hard from the southwest all day off the snowy mountains, and it was cool. During my last route, I lost part of my notes, which couldn’t be found since the wind must have blown them a great distance. Summer ducks were setting, and there were large numbers of buffalo all around our camp.
[Lewis, June 20, 1805]
Thursday June 20th 1805. This morning we had but little to do; waiting the return of Capt. Clark; I am apprehensive from his stay that the portage is longer than we had calculated on. I sent out 4 hunters this morning on the opposite side of the river to kill buffaloe; the country being more broken on that side and cut with ravenes they can get within shoot of the buffaloe with more ease and certainty than on this side of the river. my object is if possible while we have now but little to do, to lay in a large stock of dryed meat at this end of the portage to subsist the party while engaged in the transportation of our baggage &c, to the end, that they may not be taken from this duty when once commenced in order to surch for the necessary subsistence. The Indian woman is qute free from pain and fever this morning and appears to be in a fair way for recovery, she has been walking about and fishing. In the evening 2 of the hunters returned and informed me that they had killed eleven buffaloe eight of which were in very fine order, I sent off all hands immediately to bring in the meat they soon returned with about half of the best meat leaving three men to remain all night in order to secure the ballance. the bufhaloe are in inimence numbers, they have been constantly coming down in large herds to water opposite to us for some hours sometimes two or three herds wartering at the same instant and scarcely disappear before others supply their places. they appear to make great use of the mineral water, whether this be owing to it's being more convenient to them than the river or that they actually prefer it I am at a loss to determine for they do not use it invaryably, but sometimes pass at no great distance from it and water at the river. brackish water or that of a dark colour impregnated with mineral salts such as I have frequenly mentioned on the Missouri is found in small quantities in some of the steep ravenes on the N. side of the river opposite to us and the falls. Capt. Clark and party returned late this evening when he gave me the following relation of his rout and the occurrences which had taken place with them since their departure.
Thursday, June 20th, 1805. This morning, we had very little to do while we waited for Captain Clark to return. I'm worried that his delay means the portage is longer than we expected. I sent out four hunters this morning to the other side of the river to hunt buffalo. The terrain is more rugged over there, with ravines, which makes it easier and more certain for them to get close enough to shoot the buffalo than it is on this side of the river. My goal is to gather a large supply of dried meat at this end of the portage while we have the time, to feed the group while we transport our baggage to the end. This way, once we start the work, they won't have to stop to search for food. The Indian woman is feeling much better this morning, free from pain and fever, and seems to be on the road to recovery. She has been walking around and fishing. In the evening, two of the hunters returned and reported that they had killed eleven buffalo, eight of which were in excellent condition. I sent everyone out immediately to bring in the meat, and they quickly returned with about half of the best cuts, leaving three men behind to stay overnight to secure the rest. The buffalo are in huge numbers, constantly coming down in large herds to drink water right in front of us for several hours. Sometimes two or three herds are drinking at the same time, and they barely finish before more come in. They seem to really use the mineral water; I'm not sure if it's just more convenient for them than the river or if they actually prefer it. They don't always go for it, as they sometimes pass by not too far from it and drink from the river. There are small amounts of brackish water or dark-colored water with mineral salts, like what I've mentioned before on the Missouri, found in some of the steep ravines on the north side of the river across from us and the falls. Captain Clark and his party returned late this evening and he told me about his route and the events that had happened since they left.
Capt. Clark now furnished me with the field notes of the survey which he had made of the Missouri and it's Cataracts cascades &c. from the entrance of portage Creek to the South Eastwardly bend of the Missouri above the White bear Islands, which are as follow.
Capt. Clark now provided me with the field notes from the survey he conducted of the Missouri and its cataract cascades, etc., from the entrance of Portage Creek to the southeast bend of the Missouri above the White Bear Islands, which are as follows.
[Clark, June 20, 1805]
June 20th Thursday 1805 a Cloudy morning, a hard wind all night and this morning, I direct Stakes to be Cut to Stick up in the prarie to Show the way for the party to transport the baggage &c. &c. we Set out early on the portage, Soon after we Set out it began to rain and continued a Short time we proceeded on thro a tolerable leavel plain, and found the hollow of a Deep rivein to obstruct our rout as it Could not be passed with Canos & baggage for Some distance above the place we Struck it I examined it for Some time and finding it late deturmined to Strike the river & take its Course & distance to Camp which I accordingly did the wind hard from the S. W. a fair after noon, the river on both Sides Cut with raveins Some of which is passes thro Steep Clifts into the river, the Countrey above the falls & up the Medison river is leavel, with low banks, a chain of mountains to the west Some part of which particuler those to the N W. & S W are Covered with Snow and appear verry high—I Saw a rattle Snake in an open plain 2 miles from any Creek or wood. When I arrived at Camp found all well with great quantites of meet, the Canoes Capt. Lewis had Carried up the Creek 1 mile to a good place to assend the band & taken up. Not haveing Seen the Snake Indians or knowing in fact whither to Calculate on their friendship or hostillity, we have Conceived our party Sufficiently Small, and therefore have Concluded not to dispatch a Canoe with a part of our men to St. Louis as we have intended early in the Spring. we fear also that Such a measure might also discourage those who would in Such Case remain, and migh possibly hazard the fate of the expedition. we have never hinted to any one of the party that we had Such a Scheem in contemplation, and all appear perfectly to have made up their minds, to Succeed in the expedition or perish in the attempt. we all believe that we are about to enter on the most perilous and dificuelt part of our Voyage, yet I See no one repineing; all appear ready to meet those dificuelties which await us with resolution and becomeing fortitude.
June 20th, Thursday, 1805: It was a cloudy morning after a strong wind all night. This morning, I directed that stakes be cut to mark the path in the prairie to guide the party in transporting the baggage, etc. We set out early on the portage. Soon after we started, it began to rain for a short time. We continued on through a fairly level plain and encountered a deep ravine that blocked our route; it couldn't be crossed with canoes and baggage for some distance above where we struck it. I examined it for a while and, finding it late, decided to follow the river and take its course and distance back to camp, which I did. The wind was strong from the southwest, and it cleared up in the afternoon. The riverbanks were carved by ravines, some of which drop steeply into the river. The country above the falls and up the Madison River is flat with low banks, and there is a chain of mountains to the west, some of which—particularly those to the northwest and southwest—are covered with snow and appear very high. I saw a rattlesnake in an open plain two miles from any creek or woods. When I got to camp, everyone was doing well, and there was a lot of meat. Captain Lewis had taken the canoes up the creek a mile to a good spot to haul them up. Not having seen the Snake Indians or knowing whether to expect their friendship or hostility, we felt our party was too small. Therefore, we've decided not to send a canoe with some of our men to St. Louis, as we had planned to do earlier in the spring. We also fear that such an action might discourage those who would remain and could possibly jeopardize the expedition's success. We have never mentioned to anyone in the party that we were considering such a plan, and everyone seems to have fully committed to either succeeding in the expedition or perishing in the attempt. We all believe that we are about to enter the most perilous and difficult part of our journey, yet I see no one complaining; everyone appears ready to face the challenges ahead with resolution and proper fortitude.
We had a heavy dew this morning. the Clouds near those mountains rise Suddonly and discharge their Contents partially on the neighbouring Plains; the Same Cloud discharge hail alone in one part, hail and rain in another and rain only in a third all within the Space of a fiew Miles; and on the Mountains to the South & S. E. of us Sometimes Snow. at present there is no Snow on those mountains; that which covered them a fiew days ago has all disappeared. the Mountains to the N. W. and West of us are Still entirely Covered are white and glitter with the reflection of the Sun.
We had a heavy dew this morning. The clouds near those mountains suddenly rise and release their contents partially on the nearby plains; the same cloud drops hail in one area, hail and rain in another, and just rain in a third, all within a few miles. Sometimes, it even snows on the mountains to the south and southeast of us. Right now, there’s no snow on those mountains; the snow that covered them a few days ago has completely melted away. The mountains to the northwest and west of us are still fully covered, shining white with the reflection of the sun.
I do not believe that the Clouds that pervale at this Season of the year reach the Summits of those lofty mountains; and if they do the probability is that they deposit Snow only for there has been no proceptable diminution of the Snow which they Contain Since we first Saw them. I have thought it probable that these mountains might have derived their appellation of Shineing Mountains, from their glittering appearance when the Sun Shines in certain directions on the Snow which Cover them.
I don’t think the clouds that hang around at this time of year reach the tops of those tall mountains; and if they do, it’s likely that they only drop snow because there’s been no noticeable decrease in the snow they hold since we first saw them. I’ve considered that these mountains might have gotten their name, the Shining Mountains, from how they sparkle when the sun shines in certain directions on the snow covering them.
Dureing the time of my being on the Plains and above the falls I as also all my party repeatedly heard a nois which proceeded from a Direction a little to the N. of West, as loud and resembling precisely the discharge of a piece of ordinance of 6 pounds at the distance of 5 or six miles. I was informed of it Several times by the men J. Fields particularly before I paid any attention to it, thinking it was thunder most probably which they had mistaken. at length walking in the plains yesterday near the most extreem S. E. bend of the River above the falls I heard this nois very distinctly, it was perfectly calm clear and not a Cloud to be Seen, I halted and listened attentively about two hour dureing which time I heard two other discharges, and took the direction of the Sound with my pocket Compass which was as nearly West from me as I could estimate from the Sound. I have no doubt but if I had leasure I could find from whence it issued. I have thought it probable that it might be caused by running water in Some of the caverns of those emence mountains, on the principal of the blowing caverns; but in Such case the Sounds would be periodical and regular, which is not the Case with this, being Sometimes heard once only and at other times Several discharges in quick Succession. it is heard also at different times of the day and night. I am at a great loss to account for this Phenomenon. I well recollect hereing the Minitarees Say that those Rocky Mountains make a great noise, but they could not tell me the Cause, neither Could they inform me of any remarkable substance or situation in these mountains which would autherise a conjecture of a probable cause of this noise-. it is probable that the large river just above those Great falls which heads in the detection of the noise has taken it's name Medicine River from this unaccountable rumbling Sound, which like all unacountable thing with the Indians of the Missouri is Called Medicine.
During my time on the Plains and above the falls, I and my party repeatedly heard a noise coming from a direction just north of west, as loud as the discharge of a 6-pound cannon from about five or six miles away. I was informed about it several times by the men, especially J. Fields, before I paid any attention to it, thinking it was probably mistaken for thunder. Finally, while walking in the plains yesterday near the far southeast bend of the river above the falls, I heard this noise very clearly. It was perfectly calm, clear, and there wasn't a cloud in sight. I stopped and listened attentively for about two hours, during which time I heard two other discharges and took the direction of the sound with my pocket compass, which pointed almost directly west from where I stood. I have no doubt that if I had more time, I could find where it originated. I thought it might be caused by running water in some of the immense mountains' caverns, based on the principle of blowing caverns. However, in that case, the sounds would be periodic and regular, which isn't the case here, as sometimes it's heard just once and other times several discharges in quick succession. It's also heard at different times of day and night. I’m at a loss to explain this phenomenon. I remember the Minatare people saying that those Rocky Mountains make a lot of noise, but they couldn't tell me the cause. They also couldn't inform me of any remarkable substance or situation in these mountains that might explain this noise. It's likely that the large river just above those great falls, which is where the noise is perceived, was named Medicine River due to this unexplainable rumbling sound, which, like all unexplained things to the Indians of the Missouri, is referred to as Medicine.
The Ricaras inform us of the black mountains making a Simalar noise &c. &c. and maney other wonderfull tales of those Rocky mountains and those great falls.
The Ricaras tell us about the black mountains making a similar noise, etc. and many other wonderful stories of those Rocky Mountains and those great falls.
[Lewis, June 21, 1805]
Friday June 21st 1805. This morning I employed the greater part of the men in transporting a part of the bagage over portage creek to the top of the high plain about three miles in advance on the portage. I also had one canoe carryed on truck wheles to the same place and put the baggage in it, in order to make an early start in the morning, as the rout of our portage is not yet entirely settled, and it would be inconvenient to remain in the open plain all night at a distance from water, which would probably be the case if we did not set out early as the latter part of the rout is destitute of water for about 8 miles—having determined to go to the upper part of the portage tomorrow; in order to prepare my boat and receive and take care of the stores as they were transported, I caused the Iron frame of the boat and the necessary tools my private baggage and Instruments to be taken as a part of this load, also the baggage of Joseph Fields, Sergt. Gass and John sheilds, whom I had scelected to assist me in constructing the leather boat. Three men were employed today in shaving the Elk skins which had ben collected for the boat. the ballance of the party were employed in cuting the meat we had killed yesterday into thin Retches and drying it, and in bring in the ballance of what had been left over the river with three men last evening. I readily preceive several difficulties in preparing the leather boat which are the want of convenient and proper timber; bark, skins, and above all that of pitch to pay her seams, a deficiency that I really know not how to surmount unless it be by means of tallow and pounded charcoal which mixture has answered a very good purpose on our wooden canoes heretofore. I have seen for the first time on the Missouri at these falls, a species of fishing ducks with white wings, brown and white body and the head and part of the neck adjoining of a brick red, and the beak narrow; which I take to be the same common to James river, the Potomac and Susquehanna. immence numbers of buffaloe comeing to water at the river as usual. the men who remained over the river last night killed several mule deer, and Willard who was with me killed a young Elk. The wind blew violently all day. The growth of the neighbourhood what little there is consists of the broad and narrow leafed cottonwood, box alder, the large or sweet willow, the narrow and broad leafed willow. the sweet willow has not been common to the Missouri below this or the entrance of Maria's river; here attains to the same size and in appearance much the same as in the Atlantic States. the undergrowth consists of rosebushes, goosberry and current bushes, honeysuckle small, and the red wood, the inner bark of which the engages are fond of smoking mixed with tobacco.
Friday, June 21, 1805. This morning I had most of the men transport some of the baggage over Portage Creek to the top of the high plain, about three miles ahead on the portage. I also had one canoe carried on wheeled carts to the same spot and put the baggage in it to ensure an early start in the morning, since our portage route isn't entirely settled yet. It would be inconvenient to stay out in the open plain all night, far from water, which would likely happen if we didn't leave early, as the latter part of the route is without water for about 8 miles. I've decided to head to the upper part of the portage tomorrow; to prepare my boat and manage the supplies as they were moved, I had the iron frame of the boat and the necessary tools, along with my personal baggage and instruments, included in this load. I also had the baggage of Joseph Fields, Sergeant Gass, and John Shields, whom I've chosen to help me build the leather boat. Three men worked today on shaving the elk skins that had been collected for the boat. The rest of the party was busy cutting the meat we killed yesterday into thin strips to dry and bringing in the remainder of what had been left across the river with three men last evening. I quickly see several challenges in preparing the leather boat, mainly the lack of suitable timber; bark, skins, and especially pitch to seal the seams. I really don't know how to overcome this, unless by using tallow and crushed charcoal, which has worked well for our wooden canoes in the past. For the first time on the Missouri at these falls, I saw a type of fishing duck with white wings, a brown and white body, a brick-red head and part of its neck, and a narrow beak, which I believe is common to the James River, the Potomac, and the Susquehanna. Immense numbers of buffalo came to drink at the river as usual. The men who stayed across the river last night killed several mule deer, and Willard, who was with me, killed a young elk. The wind blew fiercely all day. The local vegetation, although limited, includes broad and narrow-leaved cottonwoods, box alders, large or sweet willows, and narrow and broad-leaved willows. The sweet willow isn't common along the Missouri below this point or where Maria's River enters; here it grows to the same size and looks much like it does in the Atlantic States. The undergrowth includes rose bushes, gooseberry and currant bushes, and small honeysuckle, as well as redwood, the inner bark of which the engages enjoy smoking mixed with tobacco.
[Clark, June 21, 1805]
June 21st Friday 1805 a fine morning wind from the S W. off the mountains and hard, Capt Lewis with the men except a few take a part of the baggage & a Canoe up the Hill 3 mile in advance, Several men employed in Shaveing & Graneing Elk hides for the Iron boat as it is called—3 men were Sent up the Medison river yesterday to kill Elk for the Skins for the boat, I fear that we Shall be put to Some dificuelty in precureing Elk Skins Sufficent-, Cloudy afternoon, we dry meat for the men to eat on their return from the upper part of the portage Capt Lewis determine to proceed to the upper part of the Portage tomorrow & with 3 men proced to fix the Iron boat with Skins &c. &c.
June 21st, Friday, 1805—a beautiful morning with a strong wind from the southwest off the mountains. Capt. Lewis, along with most of the men, took part of the baggage and a canoe up the hill, three miles ahead. Several men were busy shaving and scraping elk hides for what they called the iron boat. Three men were sent up the Madison River yesterday to hunt elk for the skins needed for the boat. I worry we’ll have some difficulty securing enough elk hides. It turned cloudy in the afternoon, and we dried meat for the men to eat on their return from the upper part of the portage. Capt. Lewis plans to head to the upper part of the portage tomorrow and will take three men to prepare the iron boat with the skins and other materials.
[Lewis, June 22, 1805]
Saturday June 22cd 1805. This morning early Capt Clark and myself with all the party except Sergt. Ordway Sharbono, Goodrich, york and the Indian woman, set out to pass the portage with the canoe and baggage to the Whitebear Islands, where we intend that this portage shall end. Capt. Clarke piloted us through the plains. about noon we reached a little stream about 8 miles on the portage where we halted and dined; we were obliged here to renew both axeltrees and the tongues and howns of one set of wheels which took us no more than 2 hours. these parts of our carriage had been made of cottonwood and one axetree of an old mast, all of which proved deficient and had broken down several times before we reached this place we have now renewed them with the sweet willow and hope that they will answer better. after dark we had reached within half a mile of our intended camp when the tongues gave way and we were obliged to leave the canoe, each man took as much of the baggage as he could carry on his back and proceeded to the river where we formed our encampment much fortiegued. the prickly pears were extreemly troublesome to us sticking our feet through our mockersons. Saw a great number of buffaloe in the plains, also immence quantities of little birds and the large brown curloo; the latter is now seting; it lays it's eggs, which are of a pale blue with black specks, on the ground without any preperation of a nest. there is a kind of larke here that much resembles the bird called the oldfield lark with a yellow brest and a black spot on the croop; tho this differs from ours in the form of the tail which is pointed being formed of feathers of unequal length; the beak is somewhat longer and more curved and the note differs considerably; however in size, action, and colours there is no perceptable difference; or at least none that strikes my eye. after reaching our camp we kindled our fires and examined the meat which Capt. Clark had left, but found only a small proportion of it, the wolves had taken the greater part. we eat our suppers and soon retired to rest.
Saturday, June 22, 1805. Early this morning, Captain Clark and I, along with the rest of the group except Sergeant Ordway, Sharbono, Goodrich, York, and the Indian woman, set out to carry the canoe and our gear across the portage to Whitebear Islands, where we plan to end this portage. Captain Clark guided us through the plains. Around noon, we reached a small stream about 8 miles into the portage, where we stopped to have lunch. We had to replace both axle trees and the tongues and hounds of one set of wheels, which took us no more than 2 hours. These parts of our carriage were made of cottonwood and one axle tree from an old mast, all of which turned out to be inadequate and had broken several times before we arrived here. We replaced them with sweet willow and hope they will perform better. After dark, we were within half a mile of our planned campsite when the tongues broke, forcing us to leave the canoe. Each man took as much of the baggage as he could carry on his back and made our way to the river, where we set up camp, feeling quite exhausted. The prickly pears were extremely bothersome, poking our feet through our moccasins. We saw a large number of buffalo on the plains, as well as immense quantities of small birds and the large brown curlew; the latter is currently nesting, laying its pale blue eggs speckled with black directly on the ground without any nest preparation. There is a type of lark here that closely resembles what we call the oldfield lark, featuring a yellow breast and a black spot on its back; however, it differs in tail shape, which is pointed and made of feathers of varying lengths. Its beak is somewhat longer and more curved, and its song is quite different. Still, in size, movement, and colors, I see no noticeable difference, at least nothing that catches my eye. After arriving at our camp, we made our fires and checked the meat that Captain Clark had left, but found only a small portion; the wolves had taken most of it. We had our supper and soon went to sleep.
[Clark, June 22, 1805]
June 22nd Satturday 1805 a fine morning, Capt Lewis my Self and all the party except a Sergeant Ordway Guterich and the Interpreter and his wife Sar car gah we a (who are left at Camp to take Care of the baggage left) across the portage with one Canoe on truck wheels and loaded with a part of our Baggage I piloted thro the plains to the Camp I made at which place I intended the portage to end which is 3 miles above the Medesin River we had great dificuelty in getting on as the axeltree broke Several times, and the Cuppling tongus of the wheels which was of Cotton & willow, the only wood except Boxelder & ____ that grow in this quarter, we got within half a mile of our intended Camp much fatigued at dark, our tongus broke & we took a load to the river on the mens back, where we found a number of wolves which had distroyed a great part of our meat which I had left at that place when I was up day before yesterday we Soon went to Sleep & Slept Sound wind from the ____ we deturmine to employ every man Cooks & all on the portage after to day
June 22nd, Saturday, 1805 – It was a beautiful morning. Capt. Lewis, myself, and the entire party except for Sergeant Ordway, Guterich, the Interpreter, and his wife Sar car gah stayed back at camp to take care of the luggage we left behind. We crossed the portage with one canoe on wheels, loaded with part of our baggage. I guided it through the plains to the campsite where I planned to end the portage, which is three miles above the Medicine River. We faced significant challenges getting there as the axle broke several times, and the coupling tongue of the wheels, made from cotton and willow—the only wood except for boxelder that grows in this area—gave us trouble. We managed to get within half a mile of our designated camp, feeling very tired by dark. Our tongue broke, and we carried a load to the river on the men's backs, where we discovered a number of wolves had destroyed a large part of the meat I had left there two days ago. We quickly went to sleep and slept soundly through the night. With the wind from the ____ , we decided to have every man, including the cooks, work on the portage starting today.
Canoe and baggage brought up, after which we breakfasted and nearly consumed the meat which he had left here. he now set out on his return with the party. I employed the three men with me in the forenoon clearing away the brush and forming our camp, and puting the frame of the boat together. this being done I sent Shields and Gass to look out for the necessary timber, and with J. Fields decended the river in the canoe to the mouth of Medicine river in surch of the hunters whom I had dispatched thither on the 19th inst. and from whom we had not heard a sentence. I entered the mouth of medicine river and ascended it about half a mile when we landed and walked up the Stard. side. frequently hooping as we went on in order to find the hunters; at length after ascending the river about five miles we found Shannon who had passed the Medecine river & fixed his camp on the Lard. side, where he had killed seven deer and several buffaloe and dryed about 600 lbs. of buffaloe meat; but had killed no Elk. Shannon could give me no further account of R. Fields and Drewyer than that he had left them about noon on the 19th at the great falls and had come on the mouth of Medicine river to hunt Elk as he had been directed, and never had seen them since. the evening being now far spent I thought it better to pass the Medicine river and remain all night at Shannon's camp; I passed the river on a raft which we soon constructed for the purpose. the river is here about 80 yds. wide, is deep and but a moderate current. the banks low as those of the Missouri above the falls yet never appear to overflow. as it will give a better view of the transactions of the party, I shall on each day give the occurrences of both camps during our seperation as I afterwards learnt those of the lower camp from Capt. Clark. on his return today he cut of several angles of the rout by which we came yesterday, shortened the portage considerably, measured it and set up stakes throughout as guides to marke the rout. he returned this evening to the lower camp in sufficient time to take up two of the canoes from portage creek to the top of the plain about a mile in advance. this evening the men repaired their mockersons, and put on double souls to protect their feet from the prickley pears. during the late rains the buffaloe have troden up the praire very much, which having now become dry the sharp points of earth as hard as frozen ground stand up in such abundance that there is no avoiding them. this is particulary severe on the feet of the men who have not only their own wight to bear in treading on those hacklelike points but have also the addition of the burthen which they draw and which in fact is as much as they can possibly move with. they are obliged to halt and rest frequently for a few minutes, at every halt these poor fellows tumble down and are so much fortiegued that many of them are asleep in an instant; in short their fatiegues are incredible; some are limping from the soreness of their feet, others faint and unable to stand for a few minutes, with heat and fatiegue, yet no one complains, all go with cheerfullness. in evening Reubin Fields returned to the lower camp and informed Capt. Clark of the absence of Shannon, with rispect to whome they were extreemly uneasy. Fields and Drewyer had killed several buffaloe at the bend of the missouri above the falls and had dryed a considerable quantity of meat; they had also killed several deer but no Elk.
Canoe and gear were brought up, and then we had breakfast, almost finishing the meat he had left here. He then headed back with the group. I had the three men with me spend the morning clearing the brush and setting up our camp, and assembling the boat frame. Once that was done, I sent Shields and Gass to find the necessary timber, and with J. Fields, I went down the river in the canoe to the mouth of Medicine River in search of the hunters I had sent there on the 19th, from whom we hadn't heard a word. I entered the mouth of Medicine River and went upstream about half a mile until we landed and walked up the right side, frequently calling out as we went to find the hunters. After going about five miles, we found Shannon, who had passed Medicine River and set up camp on the left side, where he had killed seven deer and several buffalo, drying about 600 lbs. of buffalo meat, but had not killed any elk. Shannon couldn't tell me anything further about R. Fields and Drewyer except that he had left them around noon on the 19th at the Great Falls and had come to the mouth of Medicine River to hunt elk as directed, and he hadn't seen them since. As the evening was getting late, I decided it was better to cross Medicine River and stay overnight at Shannon's camp; we quickly built a raft for this purpose. The river here is about 80 yards wide, deep, and has a moderate current. The banks are low like those of the Missouri above the falls but never seem to overflow. To give a clearer view of what happened with the party, I'll provide updates from both camps each day during our separation, as I later learned about the lower camp from Capt. Clark. On his return today, he cut off several angles of the route we took yesterday, shortening the portage significantly, measuring it, and setting up stakes as guides to mark the way. He returned to the lower camp this evening in time to move two canoes from Portage Creek to the top of the plain about a mile ahead. Tonight, the men repaired their moccasins and put on double soles to protect their feet from the prickly pears. The recent rains had really disturbed the prairie, and now that it’s dry, the sharp points of earth as hard as frozen ground are abundant, making them impossible to avoid. This is particularly tough on the men’s feet, as they bear not only their own weight stepping on those prickly points but the extra load they’re carrying, which is quite a lot. They have to stop and rest frequently for a few minutes; at every break, these poor guys collapse and are so exhausted that many fall asleep instantly. In short, their fatigue is unbelievable; some are limping from sore feet, others faint and can't stand for a few minutes due to the heat and exhaustion, yet no one complains; they all keep going cheerfully. In the evening, Reubin Fields returned to the lower camp and informed Capt. Clark about Shannon's absence, which worried them greatly. Fields and Drewyer had killed several buffalo at the bend of the Missouri above the falls and had dried a good amount of meat; they also killed several deer but no elk.
[Clark, June 23, 1805]
June 23rd Sunday 1805 a Cloudy morning wind from the S. E, after getting the Canoe to Camp & the articles left in the plains we eate brackfast of the remaining meat found in Camp & I with the party the truck wheels & poles to Stick up in the prarie as a guide, Set out on our return, we proceeded on, & measured the Way which I Streightened considerably from that I went on yesterday, and arrived at our lower camp in Suffcent time to take up 2 Canoes on the top of the hill from the Creek, found all Safe at Camp the men mended their mockersons with double Soles to Save their feet from the prickley pear, (which abounds in the Praries,) and the hard ground which in Some & maney places So hard as to hurt the feet verry much, the emence number of Buffalow after the last rain has trod the flat places in Such a manner as to leave it uneaven, and that has tried and is wors than frozen ground, added to those obstructions, the men has to haul with all their Strength wate & art, maney times every man all catching the grass & knobes & Stones with their hands to give them more force in drawing on the Canoes & Loads, and notwithstanding the Coolness of the air in high presperation and every halt, those not employed in reparing the Couse; are asleep in a moment, maney limping from the Soreness of their feet Some become fant for a fiew moments, but no man Complains all go Chearfully on—to State the fatigues of this party would take up more of the journal than other notes which I find Scercely time to Set down. I had the best rout Staked out and measured which is 17 miles 3/4 to the river & 1/2 a mile up i.e 181/4 miles portage—from the lower rapid to the 1st Creek is 286 poles, to a Deep run of water, Called Willow Run is 6 miles thence to the river 3 miles above Medison Riv at 3 Island Called White Bear Islands is 11 miles all prarie without wood or water except at the Creek & run which afford a plenty of fine water and a little wood the plain is tolerably leavel except at the river a Small assent & passing a low hill from the Creek a rough & Steep assent for about 1/4 of a mile and Several Gullies & a gradual hill for 11/2 miles the heads of Several gullies which have Short assents & the willow run of a Steep hill on this run grows Purple & red Currents. the red is now ripe the Purple full grown, an emence number of Prarie birds now Setting of two kinds one larger than a Sparrow dark yellow the Center feathers of its tail yellow & the out Sides black Some Streeks about its neck, the other about the Same Size White tail
June 23rd, Sunday, 1805—a cloudy morning with a wind from the southeast. After getting the canoe to camp and the items left on the plains, we had breakfast of the remaining meat found at camp. I, along with the crew, set up the truck wheels and poles in the prairie as a guide and set out on our return. We made progress and measured the route, which I straightened significantly from the path I took yesterday. We arrived back at our lower camp in plenty of time to haul up two canoes from the creek to the top of the hill. Everything was safe at camp. The men repaired their moccasins with double soles to protect their feet from the prickly pear, which is abundant in the prairies, and the hard ground, which in many places is so hard it hurts the feet quite a bit. The immense number of buffalo after the last rain have trampled the flat areas, making them uneven, and that is worse than frozen ground. On top of these obstacles, the men have to pull with all their strength, many times each man grabbing at the grass, knobs, and stones with their hands to gain extra power while drawing the canoes and loads. Despite the chill in the air, they sweat profusely and at every break, those not busy repairing the canoes quickly fall asleep, many limping from sore feet. Some faint for a few moments, but no one complains; they all carry on cheerfully. To detail the hardships of this party would take up more of the journal than I can manage to write down. I had the best route staked out and measured, which is 17¾ miles to the river and half a mile up, totaling 18¾ miles for the portage. From the lower rapid to the first creek is 286 poles to a deep stretch of water called Willow Run, which is 6 miles away, and then 3 miles to the river above Madison River, at a spot known as White Bear Islands, which is 11 miles—entirely prairie with no wood or water except at the creek and run that provide plenty of fine water and a little wood. The plain is reasonably level except near the river where there's a small incline, and after passing a low hill from the creek, there's a rough and steep ascent for about a quarter of a mile, then several gullies and a gradual hill for a mile and a half, heading into several gullies with short ascents. Along this steep hill by Willow Run, purple and red currants grow; the red ones are now ripe, while the purple ones are full grown. There's an immense number of prairie birds now—two kinds: one larger than a sparrow, dark yellow, with yellow tail feathers in the center and black on the outside, plus some streaks around its neck; the other about the same size has a white tail.
[Lewis, June 24, 1805]
Monday June 24th 1805. Supposing that Drewyer and R. Fields might possibly be still higher up medicine river, I dispatched J. Fields up the river with orders to proceede about four miles and then return whether he found them or not and join Shannon at this camp. I set out early and walked down the South West side of the river and sent Shannon down the opposite side to bring the canoe over to me and put me across the Missouri; having landed on the Lard. side of the Missouri I sent Shannon back with the canoe to ascend the Medicine river as far as his camp to meet J. Fields and bring the dryed meat at that place to the camp at the white bear Islands which accomplished and arrived with Fields this evening. the party also arrived this evening with two canoes from the lower camp. they were wet and fatiegued, gave them a dram. R. Fields came with them and gave me an account of his & Drewyer's hunt, and informed me that Drewyer was still at their camp with the meat they had dryed. the iron frame of my boat is 36 feet long 41/2 F. in the beam and 26 Inches in the hole.
Monday, June 24, 1805. Thinking that Drewyer and R. Fields might still be further up Medicine River, I sent J. Fields up the river with instructions to go about four miles and then return, whether he found them or not, and join Shannon at this camp. I left early and walked down the southwest side of the river, sending Shannon down the opposite side to bring the canoe to me and take me across the Missouri. After landing on the left side of the Missouri, I sent Shannon back with the canoe to go up Medicine River to his camp to meet J. Fields and bring the dried meat from there to the camp at the White Bear Islands. He successfully completed this and arrived with Fields this evening. The party also arrived this evening with two canoes from the lower camp. They were wet and exhausted, so I gave them a drink. R. Fields came with them and gave me an account of his and Drewyer's hunt, informing me that Drewyer was still at their camp with the meat they had dried. The iron frame of my boat is 36 feet long, 4.5 feet wide, and 26 inches deep.
This morning early Capt. Clark had the remaining canoe drawn out of the water; and divided the remainder of our baggage into three parcels, one of which he sent today by the party with two canoes. The Indian woman is now perfectly recovered. Capt. C. came a few miles this morning to see the party under way and returned. on my arrival at the upper camp this morning, I found that Sergt. Gass and Shields had made but slow progress in collecting timber for the boat; they complained of great difficulty in geting streight or even tolerably streight sticks of 4/2 feet long. we were obliged to make use of the willow and box alder, the cottonwood being too soft and brittle. I kept one of them collecting timber while the other shaved and fitted them. I have found some pine logs among the drift wood near this place, from which, I hope to obtain as much pitch as will answer to pay the seams of the boat. I directed Fraizer to remain in order to sew the hides together, and form the covering for the boat.
This morning, Captain Clark had the remaining canoe pulled out of the water and split up our luggage into three bags. He sent one of them off today with the group using two canoes. The Indian woman has fully recovered now. Captain Clark traveled a few miles this morning to check on the group and then returned. When I arrived at the upper camp this morning, I found that Sergeant Gass and Shields had made slow progress gathering timber for the boat. They complained about having a hard time finding straight or even reasonably straight sticks that are 4.5 feet long. We had to use willow and box alder since the cottonwood was too soft and brittle. I had one of them collect timber while the other shaved and prepared the pieces. I found some pine logs in the driftwood near here, from which I hope to get enough pitch to seal the boat's seams. I instructed Fraizer to stay behind to sew the hides together to make the boat's covering.
[Clark, June 24, 1805]
June 24th Monday 1805 a Cloudy morning I rose early had, the remaining Canoe hauled out of the water to dry and divided the baggage into 3 parcels, one of which the party took on their backs & one waggon with truk wheels to the Canoes 3 miles in advance (Those Canoes or 5 of our Canoes were Carried up the Creek 13/4 of a mile taken out on the bank and left to dry from which place they are taken up a point and intersects this rout from the mouth of the Creek at 3 miles from the foot of the rapids) after getting up their loads they divided men & load & proceeded on with 2 canoes on truck wheels as before, I accompaned them 4 miles and returned, my feet being verry Sore from the walk over ruts Stones & hills & thro the leavel plain for 6 days proceeding Carrying my pack and gun. Some few drops of rain in the fore part of the day, at 6 oClock a black Cloud arose to the N West, the wind shifted from the S to that point and in a short time the earth was entirely Covered with hail, Some rain Succeeded, which Continud for about an hour very moderately on this Side of the river, without the earths being wet 1/2 an inch, the riveins on the opposit or N W Side discharged emence torrents of water into the river, & Showed evidently that the rain was much heavyer on that Side, Some rain at different times in the night which was worm—Thunder without lightning accompanied the hail Cloud
June 24th, Monday, 1805 was a cloudy morning. I got up early, had the remaining canoe taken out of the water to dry, and split the baggage into three parcels. One was carried by the team on their backs, and one was loaded onto a wagon with truck wheels, heading to the canoes three miles ahead. (Five of our canoes were carried up the creek for a mile and three-quarters, then taken out onto the bank and left to dry. From there, they were moved to a point that intersects this route three miles from the foot of the rapids.) After loading up, they split into groups of men and loads and proceeded with two canoes on truck wheels as before. I accompanied them for four miles and then returned, my feet very sore from walking over ruts, stones, hills, and through a flat plain for six days while carrying my pack and gun. There were a few drops of rain early in the day. At 6 o'clock, a dark cloud appeared in the northwest, the wind shifted from the south to that direction, and soon the ground was completely covered with hail. Some rain followed, which lasted for about an hour, very lightly on this side of the river, without soaking the ground more than half an inch. The rivers on the opposite, northwest side were pouring immense torrents of water into the river, clearly showing that the rain was much heavier on that side. There was some rain at various times during the night, which was warm—thunder without lightning accompanied the hail cloud.
[Lewis, June 25, 1805]
Tuesday June 25th 1805. This morning early I sent the party back to the lower camp; dispatched Frazier down with the canoe for Drewyer and the meat he had collected, and Joseph Fields up the Missouri to hunt Elk. at eight OCIk. sent Gass and Sheilds over to the large Island for bark and timber. about noon Fields returned and informed me that he had seen two white bear near the river a few miles above and in attempting to get a shoot them had stumbled uppon a third which immediately made at him being only a few steps distant; that in runing in order to escape from the bear he had leaped down a steep bank of the river on a stony bar where he fell cut his hand bruised his knees and bent his gun. that fortunately for him the bank hid him from the bear when he fell and that by that means he had escaped. this man has been truly unfortunate with these bear, this is the second time that he has narrowly escaped from them. about 2 P. M Shields and Gass returned with but a small quantity of both bark and timber and informed me that it was all they could find on the Island; they had killed two Elk the skins of which and a part of the flesh they brought with them. in the evening Drewyer and Frazier arrivd with about 800 lbs. of excellent dryed meat and about 100 lbs of tallow. The river is about 800 yds. wide opposite to us above these islands, and has a very gentle current the bottoms are hadsome level and extensive on both sides; the bank on this side is not more than 2 feet above the level of the water; it is a pretty little grove in which our camp is situated. there is a species of wild rye which is now heading it rises to the hight of 18 or 20 inches, the beard is remarkably fine and soft it is a very handsome grass the culm is jointed and is in every rispect the wild rye in minuture. great quantities of mint also are here it resemble the pepper mint very much in taste and appearance. the young blackbirds which are almost innumerable in these islands just begin to fly. see a number of water tarripens. I have made an unsuccessfull attempt to catch fish, and do not think there are any in this part of the river. The party that returned this evening to the lower camp reached it in time to take one canoe on the plain and prepare their baggage for an early start in the morning after which such as were able to shake a foot amused themselves in dancing on the green to the music of the violin which Cruzatte plays extreemly well.
Tuesday, June 25th, 1805. This morning, I sent the group back to the lower camp; I dispatched Frazier down with the canoe for Drewyer and the meat he had gathered, and Joseph Fields up the Missouri to hunt elk. At eight o'clock, I sent Gass and Shields over to the large island for bark and timber. Around noon, Fields returned and told me that he had seen two white bears near the river a few miles upstream, and while trying to shoot them, he stumbled upon a third bear that charged at him from just a few steps away. In his effort to escape from the bear, he jumped down a steep riverbank onto a rocky bar, where he fell, cut his hand, bruised his knees, and bent his gun. Fortunately for him, the bank hid him from the bear when he fell, allowing him to escape. This man has truly had bad luck with bears; this is the second time he's narrowly escaped them. Around 2 PM, Shields and Gass returned with only a small amount of bark and timber, informing me that it was all they could find on the island. They had killed two elk, the skins and part of the meat of which they brought back with them. In the evening, Drewyer and Frazier arrived with about 800 lbs of excellent dried meat and about 100 lbs of tallow. The river is about 800 yards wide across from us above these islands, with a very gentle current. The bottoms are beautiful, level, and extensive on both sides; the bank on this side is not more than 2 feet above the water level. Our camp is nestled in a lovely little grove. There’s a species of wild rye that’s now heading, rising to a height of 18 to 20 inches; the beard is remarkably fine and soft, making it a very attractive grass. The stalk is jointed and is in every respect a miniature version of wild rye. There are also large quantities of mint here, which closely resembles peppermint in taste and appearance. The young blackbirds, which are almost countless on these islands, are just starting to fly. I’ve seen a number of water tarpins. I made an unsuccessful attempt to catch fish and don’t think there are any in this part of the river. The group that returned this evening to the lower camp arrived in time to take one canoe on the plain and prepare their supplies for an early start in the morning, after which those who were able to moved their feet to the music of the violin played extremely well by Cruzatte.
Capt. C. somewhat unwell today. he made Charbono kook for the party against their return. it is worthy of remark that the winds are sometimes so strong in these plains that the men informed me that they hoisted a sail in the canoe and it had driven her along on the truck wheels. this is really sailing on dry land.
Capt. C. is feeling a bit under the weather today. He had Charbono cook for the party in anticipation of their return. It’s worth noting that the winds here can be so strong that the men told me they put a sail up in the canoe, and it actually propelled her along on the truck wheels. This is basically sailing on dry land.
[Clark, June 25, 1805]
June 25th Tuesday 1805 a fair worm morning, Clouded & a few drops of rain at 5 oClock A.M. fair I feel my Self a little unwell with a looseness &c. &c. put out the Stores to dry & Set Chabonah &c to Cook for the party against their return-he being the only man left on this Side with me I had a little Coffee for brackfast which was to me a riarity as I had not tasted any Since last winter. The wind from the N. W. & worm. This Countrey has a romantick appearance river inclosed between high and Steep hills Cut to pieces by revines but little timber and that Confined to the Rivers & Creek, the Missourie has but a fiew Scattering trees on its borders, and only one Solitary Cotton tree in sight of my Camp the wood which we burn is drift wood which is broken to pieces in passing the falls, not one large tree longer than about 8 or 10 feet to be found drifted below the falls the plains are inferior in point of Soil to those below, more Stone on the sides of the hill, grass but a few inches high and but few flowers in the Plains, great quantites of Choke Cheries, Goose burres, red & yellow berries, & red & Purple Currents on the edges of water Courses in bottoms & damp places, about my Camp the Cliffs or bluffs are a hard red or redish brown earth Containing Iron. we Catch great quantities of Trout, and a kind of mustel, flat backs & a Soft fish resembling a Shad and a few Cat. at 5 oClock the party returned, fatigued as usial, and proceeded to mend their mockersons &c. and G Shannon & R, Fds. to of the men who ware Sent up the medison river to hunt Elk, they killed no Elk, Several Buffalow & Deer, and reports that the river is 120 yds wide and about 8 feet deep Some timber on its borders—a powerfull rain fell on the party on their rout yesterday Wet Some fiew articles, and Caused the rout to be So bad wet & Deep thay Could with dificuelty proceed, Capt. Lewis & the men with him much employd with the Iron Boat in fitting it for the water, dispatched one man to George Drewyers Camp below medison river for meat &c. a fair after noon—great numbers of buffalow water opposit to my Camp everry day—it may be here worthy of remark that the Sales were hoised in the Canoes as the men were drawing them and the wind was great relief to them being Sufficeritly Strong to move the Canoes on the Trucks, this is Saleing on Dry land in every Sence of the word, Serjeant N Pryor Sick, the party amused themselves with danceing untill 10 oClock all Chearfullness and good humer, they all tied up their loads to make an early Start in the morning.
June 25th, Tuesday, 1805 — it was a warm morning, cloudy with a few drops of rain at 5 o'clock A.M. I felt a bit unwell with some digestive issues, so I put out the supplies to dry and had Chabonah cook for the group until their return—he was the only man left here with me. I had a little coffee for breakfast, which was a rarity for me since I hadn't had any since last winter. The wind was warm and coming from the northwest. This area has a romantic look, with rivers surrounded by high, steep hills marked by ravines. There's little timber, and what there is is mostly along the rivers and creeks. The Missouri has only a few scattered trees on its banks, and I can see just one lonely cottonwood tree near my camp. The wood we burn is driftwood, which gets broken apart while passing over the falls; there isn’t a single large tree longer than about 8 or 10 feet that can be found drifting below the falls. The plains here have poorer soil compared to those farther down, with more rocks on the hillsides, grass only a few inches high, and few flowers in the plains. There are large quantities of chokecherries, gooseberries, red and yellow berries, and red and purple currants along the edges of watercourses in the low areas and damp places. Around my camp, the cliffs or bluffs consist of hard red or reddish-brown earth containing iron. We catch a lot of trout, a type of mustelid, flatfish, a soft fish resembling a shad, and a few catfish. At 5 o'clock, the group returned, tired as usual, and proceeded to mend their mocs. G. Shannon and R. Fds. were among the men who went up the Medicine River to hunt elk; they didn’t find any elk but reported killing several buffalo and deer. They said the river is 120 yards wide and about 8 feet deep, with some timber along its banks. A heavy rain fell on the group during their journey yesterday, wetting some items and making the path muddy and difficult to navigate. Captain Lewis and the men with him were busy preparing the iron boat for the water and sent one man to George Drewyer's camp below the Medicine River for meat and other supplies. It was a nice afternoon—every day, there are large numbers of buffalo in the water opposite my camp. It’s worth noting that the sails were raised on the canoes as the men were pulling them in, and the wind provided great relief, being strong enough to help move the canoes on the trucks; this is essentially sailing on dry land. Sergeant N. Pryor was sick, and the group entertained themselves dancing until 10 o'clock, all cheerful and in good spirits. They tied up their loads to make an early start in the morning.
[Lewis, June 26, 1805]
Wednesday June 26th 1805. The Musquetoes are extreemly troublesome to us. This morning early I dispatched J. Fields and Drewyer in one of the canoes up the river to hunt Elk. set Frazier at work to sew the skins together for the covering of the boat. Sheilds and Gas I sent over the river to lurch a small timbered bottom on that side opposite to the Islands for timber and bark; and to myself I assign the duty of cook as well for those present as for the party which I expect again to arrive this evening from the lower camp. I collected my wood and water, boiled a large quantity of excellent dryed buffaloe meat and made each man a large suet dumpling by way of a treat. about 4 P.M. Shields and Gass returned with a better supply of timber than they had yet collected tho not by any means enough. they brought some bark principally of the Cottonwood which I found was too brittle and soft for the purpose; for this article I find my only dependence is the sweet willow which has a tough & strong bark. Shields and Gass had killed seven buffaloe in their absence the skins of which and a part of the best of the meat they brought with them. if I cannot procure a sufficient quantity of Elk's skins I shall substitute those of the buffaloe. late in the evening the party arrived with two more canoes and another portion of the baggage. Whitehouse one of them much heated and fortiegued on his arrivall dank a very hearty draught of water and was taken almost instanly extreemly ill. his pulse were very full and I therefore bled him plentifully from which he felt great relief. I had no other instrument with which to perform this opperation but my pen knife, however it answered very well. the wind being from S. E today and favourable the men made considerable progress by means of their sails.
Wednesday, June 26th, 1805. The mosquitoes are extremely bothersome to us. This morning, I sent J. Fields and Drewyer up the river in one of the canoes to hunt elk. I had Frazier start sewing the skins together for the boat cover. Shields and Gass went across the river to look for a small timbered area on the opposite side of the islands to gather timber and bark. I took on the task of cooking for everyone here and for the group I expect will arrive this evening from the lower camp. I gathered wood and water, boiled a large amount of excellent dried buffalo meat, and made each man a big suet dumpling as a treat. Around 4 P.M., Shields and Gass returned with a better supply of timber than they had collected before, although it was still not enough. They brought some bark, mainly from the cottonwood, which I found to be too brittle and soft for our needs; my only reliable option for this is the sweet willow, which has tough and strong bark. Shields and Gass had killed seven buffalo during their absence, and they brought back the skins and some of the best meat. If I can’t get enough elk skins, I'll use buffalo skins instead. Late in the evening, the group arrived with two more canoes and some additional baggage. One of them, Whitehouse, was extremely hot and tired when he arrived, and he drank a large amount of water, then almost instantly became very ill. His pulse was very strong, so I bled him sufficiently, and he felt a lot better afterward. I only had my penknife to perform this procedure, but it worked well enough. The wind was coming from the southeast today and was favorable, so the men made significant progress with their sails.
At the lower Camp. The party set out very early from this place, and took with them two canoes and a second alotment of baggage consisting of Parched meal, Pork, powder lead axes, tools, bisquit, portable soupe, some merchandize and cloathing. Capt. C. gave Sergt. Pryor a doze of salts this morning and employed Sharbono in rendering the buffaloe tallow which had been collected there, he obtained a sufficient quantity to fill three empty kegs. Capt. C. also scelected the articles to be deposited in the cash consisting of my desk which I had left for that purpose and in which I had left some books, my specimens of plants minerals &c. collected from fort Mandan to that place. also 2 Kegs of Pork, 1/2 a Keg of flour 2 blunderbushes, 1/2 a keg of fixed ammunition and some other small articles belonging to the party which could be dispenced with. deposited the swivel and carriage under the rocks a little above the camp near the river. great numbers of buffaloe still continue to water daily opposite the camp. The antelopes still continue scattered and seperate in the plains. the females with their young only of which they generally have two, and the males alone. Capt. Clarke measured the rout from the Camp at the Whitebear Islands to the lower camp which is as follows.-
At the lower camp. The group left very early from this spot and brought along two canoes and a second load of supplies, including dry meal, pork, powder, lead, axes, tools, biscuits, portable soup, some merchandise, and clothing. Captain C. gave Sergeant Pryor a dose of salts this morning and had Sharbono melt down the buffalo tallow that had been collected there; he got enough to fill three empty kegs. Captain C. also selected the items to be stored in the cache, which included my desk that I had left for this purpose, containing some books, and my specimens of plants and minerals collected from Fort Mandan to this place. Additionally, there were two kegs of pork, half a keg of flour, two blunderbuss guns, half a keg of fixed ammunition, and some other small items belonging to the group that could be set aside. The swivel and carriage were stored under the rocks a little above the camp near the river. Large numbers of buffalo continue to drink daily opposite the camp. The antelopes are still scattered and separated across the plains, with the females and their young, usually two, while the males are alone. Captain Clarke measured the route from the camp at the White Bear Islands to the lower camp, which is as follows.-
[Clark, June 26, 1805]
June 26th Wednesday 1805 Some rain last night this morning verry Cloudy the party Set out this morning verry early with their loads to the Canoe Consisting of Parched meal Pork Powder Lead axes, Tools Bisquit, P. Soup & Some Merchendize & Clothes &c. &c. I gave Serjt. Pryor a dolt of Salts, & Set Chabonah to trying up the Buffalow tallow & put into the empty Kegs &c. I assort our articles for to be left at this place buried, ____ Kegs of Pork, 1/2 a Keg of flour, 2 blunderbuts, ____ Caterrages a few Small lumbersom articles Capt Lewiss Desk and Some books & Small articles in it
June 26th, Wednesday, 1805 Some rain last night; this morning is very cloudy. The team set out early today with their loads to the canoe, which included parched meal, pork, powder, lead, axes, tools, biscuits, pea soup, some merchandise, clothes, etc. I gave Sergeant Pryor a dose of salts and had Chabonah working on trying the buffalo tallow and putting it into the empty kegs. I sorted our items to be left buried at this location: ____ kegs of pork, half a keg of flour, two blunderbusses, ____ cartridges, a few small cumbersome items, Captain Lewis's desk, and some books and small items in it.
The wind from the N. W. verry worm flying Clouds in the evening the wind Shifted round to the East & blew hard, which is a fair wind for the two Canoes to Sail on the Plains across the portage, I had three Kegs of Buffalow Grease tried up. Great numbers of Buffalow opposite to our Camp watering to day.
The wind from the northwest was very warm, and there were flying clouds in the evening. The wind then shifted to the east and picked up, which was a good wind for the two canoes to sail across the plains over the portage. I had three kegs of buffalo grease tied up. There were a lot of buffalo near our camp drinking water today.
[Lewis, June 27, 1805]
Thursday June 27th 1805. The party returned early this morning for the remaining canoe and baggage; Whitehouse was not quite well this morning I therefore detained him and about 10 A.M. set him at work with Frazier sewing the skins together for the boat; Shields and Gass continued the operation of shaving and fiting the horizontall bars of wood in the sections of the boat; the timber is so crooked and indifferent that they make but little progress, for myself I continued to act the part of cook in order to keep all hands employed. some Elk came near our camp and we killed 2 of them at 1 P.M. a cloud arrose to the S. W. and shortly after came on attended with violent Thunder Lightning and hail &c. (see notes on diary of the weather for June). soon after this storm was over Drewyer and J. Fields returned. they were about 4 miles above us during the storm, the hail was of no uncommon size where they were. They had killed 9 Elk and three bear during their absence; one of the bear was the largest by far that we have yet seen; the skin appear to me to be as large as a common ox. while hunting they saw a thick brushey bottom on the bank of the river where from the tracks along shore they suspected that there were bare concealed; they therefore landed without making any nois and climbed a leaning tree and placed themselves on it's branches about 20 feet above the ground, when thus securely fixed they gave a hoop and this large bear instantly rushed forward to the place from whence he had heard the human voice issue, when he arrived at the tree he made a short paus and Drewyer shot him in the head. it is worthy of remark that these bear never climb. the fore feet of this bear measured nine inches across and the hind feet eleven and—3/4 in length & exclusive of the tallons and seven inches in width. a bear came within thirty yards of our camp last night and eat up about thirty weight of buffaloe suit which was hanging on a pole. my dog seems to be in a constant state of alarm with these bear and keeps barking all night. soon after the storm this evening the water on this side of the river became of a deep crimson colour which I pesume proceeded from some stream above and on this side. there is a kind of soft red stone in the bluffs and bottoms. of the gullies in this neighbourhood which forms this colouring matter.—At the lower camp. Capt. Clark completed a draught of the river with the couses and distances from the entrance of the Missouri to Ft. Mandan, which we intend depositing here in order to guard against accedents. Sergt. Pryor is somewhat better this morning. at 4 P.M. the party returned from the upper camp; Capt. C. gave them a drink of grog; they prepared for the labour of the next day. soon after the party returned it began to rain accompanyed by some hail and continued a short time; a second shower fell late in the evening accompanyed by a high wind from N. W.—the mangled carcases of several buffaloe pass down the river today which had no doubt perished in the falls.
Thursday, June 27th, 1805. The group came back early this morning for the remaining canoe and supplies; Whitehouse wasn’t feeling great this morning, so I kept him here and around 10 A.M. had him work with Frazier sewing the skins together for the boat. Shields and Gass continued to shave and fit the horizontal wooden bars in the boat sections; the timber is so warped and poor that they made little progress. As for me, I continued to take on the role of cook to keep everyone busy. Some elk came close to our camp and we shot 2 of them at 1 P.M. A cloud formed to the southwest and shortly after came through with intense thunder, lightning, hail, etc. (see notes on weather diary for June). Soon after the storm passed, Drewyer and J. Fields returned. They were about 4 miles upstream during the storm, and the hail there was of ordinary size. They had killed 9 elk and 3 bears while they were away; one of the bears was by far the largest we’ve seen so far; the skin looked to me as big as an average ox. While hunting, they spotted a thick, brushy bottom along the riverbank where they suspected bears were hiding from the tracks they saw. They quietly landed, climbed a leaning tree, and positioned themselves on its branches about 20 feet above the ground. Once securely settled, they shouted, and the large bear rushed towards them from the source of the voice. When it reached the tree, it paused briefly, and Drewyer shot it in the head. It’s worth noting that these bears never climb. The forefeet of this bear measured nine inches across, and the hind feet were eleven and three-quarters inches long, excluding the claws, and seven inches wide. A bear came within thirty yards of our camp last night and ate about thirty pounds of buffalo skin that was hanging on a pole. My dog seems to be in a constant state of alarm with these bears and keeps barking all night. Shortly after the storm this evening, the water on our side of the river turned a deep crimson color, which I assume came from some upstream source. There’s a type of soft red stone in the bluffs and gullies around here that causes this coloring. At the lower camp, Capt. Clark finished a draft of the river with the courses and distances from the mouth of the Missouri to Ft. Mandan, which we plan to store here to prevent any accidents. Sergeant Pryor is feeling a bit better this morning. At 4 P.M., the group returned from the upper camp; Capt. C. gave them a drink of grog, and they got ready for the work ahead tomorrow. Shortly after the group returned, it started to rain, along with some hail, which lasted a short time. A second shower came late in the evening, accompanied by strong winds from the northwest. Several buffalo carcasses floated down the river today, likely having perished in the falls.
[Clark, June 27, 1805]
June 27th Thursday 1805 a fair warm morning wind from the S, E, and moderate. Serjt. Pryor Something better this morning, I proceed to finish a rough draugh of the river & Distances to leave at this place, the wormest day we have had this year, at 4 oClock the Party returned from the head of the portage Soon after it began to hail and rain hard and continued for a fiew minits & Ceased for an hour and began to rain again with a heavy wind from the N W. I refresh the men with a drink of grog The river beginning to rise a little the water is Coloured a redish brown, the Small Streams, discharges in great torrents, and partake of the Choler of the earth over which it passes-a great part of which is light & of a redish brown. Several Buffalow pass drowned & in passing over the falls Cloudy all night, Cold
June 27th, Thursday, 1805 - It’s a nice, warm morning with a light wind coming from the southeast. Serjt. Pryor is feeling a bit better today. I’m going to finish a rough draft of the river and distances to leave here. It’s the warmest day we’ve had all year. At 4 o'clock, the team returned from the end of the portage. Soon after that, it started hailing and raining hard, which lasted for a few minutes before stopping for an hour, then started pouring again with a strong wind from the northwest. I treated the guys to some grog. The river is starting to rise a bit, and the water has a reddish-brown color. The small streams are flowing in great torrents, carrying the earth's cholera over which they pass, much of which is light and reddish-brown. Several buffalo passed by, drowned, and while crossing the falls. It was cloudy all night and cold.
[Lewis, June 28, 1805]
Friday June 28th 1805. Set Drewyer to shaving the Elk skins, Fields to make the cross stays for the boat, Frazier and Whitehouse continue their operation with the skins, Shields and Gass finish the horizontal bars of the sections; after which I sent them in surch of willow bark, a sufficient supply of which they now obtained to bind the boat. expecting the party this evening I prepared a supper for them but they did not arrive. not having quite Elk skins enough I employed three buffaloe hides to cover one section. not being able to shave these skins I had them singed pretty closely with a blazeing torch; I think they will answer tolerable well. The White bear have become so troublesome to us that I do not think it prudent to send one man alone on an errand of any kind, particularly where he has to pass through the brush. we have seen two of them on the large Island opposite to us today but are so much engaged that we could not spare the time to hunt them but will make a frolick of it when the party return and drive them from these islands. they come close arround our camp every night but have never yet ventured to attack us and our dog gives us timely notice of their visits, he keeps constantly padroling all night. I have made the men sleep with their arms by them as usual for fear of accedents. the river is now about nine inches higher than it was on my arrival. lower Camp. early this morning Capt. C. dispatched the remaining canoe with some baggage to the top of the plain above Portage creek three miles in advance; some others he employed in carrying the articles to the cash and depositing them and others to mend the carriages which wer somewhat out of repair. this being accomplished he loaded the two carriages with the remaining baggage and set out with all the party and proceeded on with much difficulty to the canoe in the plain. portage creek had arisen considerably and the water was of crimson colour and illy tasted. on his arrival at the canoe he found there was more baggage than he could possibly take at one load on the two sets of trucks and therefore left some barrels of pork & flour and a few heavy boxes of amunition which could not well be injured, and proceeded with the canoe & one set of trucks loaded with baggage to willow run where he encamped for the night, and killed two buffaloe to subsist the party. soon after his arrival at willow run he experienced a hard shower of rain which was succeeded by a violent wind from the S. W. off the snowy mountains, accompanyed with rain; the party being cold and wet, he administered the consolation of a dram to each.
Friday, June 28, 1805. I had Drewyer shave the elk skins, Fields make the cross stays for the boat, and Frazier and Whitehouse keep working on the skins. Shields and Gass finished the horizontal bars for the sections. After that, I sent them to look for willow bark, and they managed to get enough to bind the boat. I expected the group back this evening, so I prepared dinner for them, but they didn’t show up. Since we didn’t have quite enough elk skins, I used three buffalo hides to cover one section. I couldn’t shave those skins, so I singed them pretty close with a blazing torch; I think they’ll work out reasonably well. The white bears have become so much of a problem that I don’t think it’s wise to send anyone out alone for any errands, especially where they have to go through the brush. We saw two of them on the large island across from us today, but we were too busy to go hunting, so we’ll make it a fun event when the group comes back and drive them off these islands. They come around our camp every night but haven’t dared to attack us yet, and our dog warns us of their visits; he keeps patrolling all night. I’ve made the men sleep with their arms close by, as usual, just in case. The river is now about nine inches higher than it was when I arrived. Lower Camp. Early this morning, Capt. C. sent the last canoe with some baggage to the top of the plain above Portage Creek, three miles ahead; he had some others carry items to cache and deposit them and worked on fixing the carriages, which were somewhat damaged. Once that was done, he loaded the two carriages with the remaining baggage and set out with the whole party, making their way to the canoe in the plain with a lot of difficulty. Portage Creek had risen significantly, and the water was a crimson color and tasted bad. When he got to the canoe, he found there was more baggage than he could take in one load on the two sets of trucks, so he left behind some barrels of pork and flour and a few heavy boxes of ammunition that wouldn’t be damaged easily, then proceeded with the canoe and one set of trucks loaded with baggage to Willow Run, where he camped for the night and killed two buffalo to feed the party. Soon after he arrived at Willow Run, he faced a heavy rain shower, followed by a strong wind from the southwest off the snowy mountains, along with more rain. The party, being cold and wet, received a comforting drink from him.
[Clark, June 28, 1805]
June 28th Friday 1805 a fair morning wind from the South I dispatch the remaining Canoe with baggage in her to the top of the Hill three miles, imploy Some hands in Carrying those things we intend to deposit to the Carsh or hole, Some to repareing one of the trucks &c. &c. the water is riseing and of a redish brown Cholour after Covering the Carshe & loading the two Carrges with the remaining part of our Baggage we all Set out passed the Creek which had rose a little and the water nearly red, and bad tasted, we assended the hill to the place the Canoe lay with great labour, at the Canoe at which place we left Some boxes & Kegs of Pork & flour for another Load, and proceeded on with the Canoe & what baggage we could draw on the wheels to willow run 6 miles where we Camped, this run mearly Some water remaining in holes &c. Soon after we halted we had a Shower, and at dark we expereinced a most dredfull wind from off the Snow Mountains to the S. W. accompd. with rain which continued at intervales all night men wet. I refreshed them with a dram. Killed 2 Buffalow. Great nos. about
June 28th, Friday, 1805 - It was a nice morning with a wind coming from the south. I sent the remaining canoe loaded with baggage to the top of the hill three miles away. Some people helped carry the items we planned to store in the cache or hole, while others worked on repairing one of the trucks, etc. The water is rising and has a reddish-brown color. After covering the cache and loading the two carriages with the rest of our baggage, we all set out. We passed the creek, which had risen slightly, and the water was nearly red and had a bad taste. We climbed the hill to the spot where the canoe was, which took a lot of effort. At the canoe, we left some boxes and kegs of pork and flour for another load and continued on with the canoe and as much baggage as we could transport using the wheels to Willow Run, six miles away, where we camped. There was only some water left in holes and such. Shortly after we stopped, we had a shower, and by nightfall, we experienced a terrible wind coming from the southwest off the snow-covered mountains, accompanied by rain that continued intermittently all night, leaving the men wet. I treated them to a drink. I killed two buffalo. There were large numbers around.
[Lewis, June 29, 1805]
Saturday June 29th 1805. This morning we experienced a heavy shower of rain for about an hour after which it became fair. not having seen the large fountain of which Capt. Clark spoke I determined to visit it today as I could better spare this day from my attention to the boat than probably any other when the work would be further advanced; accordingly after seting the hands at their several employments I took Drewyer and seet out for the fountain and passed through a level beautiful plain for about Six miles when I reached the brake of the river hills here we were overtaken by a violent gust of wind and rain from the S. W. attended with thunder and Litning. I expected a hail storm probably from this cloud and therefore took refuge in a little gully wher there were some broad stones with which I purposed protecting my head if we should have a repetition of the seene of the 27th but fortunately we had but little hail and that not large; I sat very composedly for about an hour without sheter and took a copious drenching of rain; after the shower was over I continued my rout to the fountain which I found much as Capt. C; had discribed & think it may well be retained on the list of prodegies of this neighbourhood towards which, nature seems to have dealt with a liberal hand, for I have scarcely experienced a day since my first arrival in this quarter without experiencing some novel occurrence among the party or witnessing the appearance of some uncommon object. I think this fountain the largest I ever beheld, and the hadsome cascade which it affords over some steep and irregular rocks in it's passage to the river adds not a little to it's beauty. it is about 25 yds. from the river, situated in a pretty little level plain, and has a suddon decent of about 6 feet in one part of it's course. the water of this fountain is extreemly tranparent and cold; nor is it impregnated with lime or any other extranious matter which I can discover, but is very pure and pleasent. it's waters marke their passage as Capt. Clark observes for a considerable distance down the Missouri notwithstanding it's rapidity and force. the water of the fountain boil up with such force near it's center that it's surface in that part seems even higher than the surrounding earth which is a firm handsom terf of fine green grass. after amusing myself about 20 minutes in examining the fountain I found myself so chilled with my wet cloaths that I determined to return and accordingly set out; on our way to camp we found a buffaloe dead which we had shot as we came out and took a parsel of the meat to camp it was in very good order; the hump and tongue of a fat buffaloe I esteem great delicasies. on my arrival at camp I was astonished not to find the party yet arrived, but then concluded that probably the state of the praries had detained them, as in the wet state in which they are at present the mud sticks to the wheels is such manner that they are obliged to halt frequently and clense them. Transaction and occurrencies which took place with Capt. Clark and party today.
Saturday, June 29th, 1805. This morning we had a heavy rain shower for about an hour, after which the weather cleared up. Not having seen the large fountain that Captain Clark mentioned, I decided to visit it today since I could spare the time better than I might be able to later when work on the boat progresses. After assigning the crew their tasks, I took Drewyer and set out for the fountain, passing through a beautiful, level plain for about six miles until I reached the edge of the river hills. There, we were hit by a strong gust of wind and rain from the southwest, accompanied by thunder and lightning. I expected hail from the cloud, so I took refuge in a small gully where there were some large stones that I planned to use to protect my head if the situation turned into a repeat of the scene on the 27th. Fortunately, we only experienced a little hail, and it was small. I sat patiently for about an hour without shelter, getting thoroughly soaked. After the storm passed, I continued my way to the fountain, which I found to be much as Captain Clark described it, and I believe it deserves to be on the list of wonders in this area, where nature has truly been generous. Since I arrived in this region, I have hardly experienced a day without a novel event among the party or seeing something unusual. I think this fountain is the largest I've ever seen, and the attractive cascade it produces over steep and irregular rocks on its way to the river greatly enhances its beauty. It's located about 25 yards from the river, set in a charming little level plain, and has a sudden drop of about six feet in one part of its course. The water from this fountain is extremely clear and cold; it doesn't have any noticeable lime or other foreign substances that I can detect, but it is very pure and pleasant. As Captain Clark noted, its waters can be traced for a considerable distance down the Missouri, despite their rapidity and force. The water at the fountain bubbles up with such force near its center that its surface there seems even higher than the surrounding ground, which is a solid, attractive turf of fine green grass. After spending about 20 minutes examining the fountain, I became so chilled from my wet clothes that I decided to head back. On our way to camp, we came across a buffalo that we had shot earlier and brought a portion of the meat back to camp; it was in very good condition. I consider the hump and tongue of a fat buffalo to be great delicacies. When I arrived at camp, I was surprised not to find the rest of the party there yet, but I figured that the condition of the prairies had delayed them; in their wet state, mud sticks to the wheels so much that they have to stop frequently to clean them. Transactions and occurrences that took place with Captain Clark and the party today.
Shortly after the rain which fell early this morning he found it imposseble from the state of the plains for the party to reach the upper extremity of the portage with their present load, and therefore sent back almost all of the party to bring the baggage which had been left behind yesterday. he determined himself to pass by the way of the river to camp in order to supply the deficiency of some notes and remarks which he had made as he first ascended the river but which he had unfortunately lost. accordingly he left one man at Willow run to guard the baggage and took with him his black man York, Sharbono and his indian woman also accompanyed Capt. C. on his arrival at the falls he perceived a very black cloud rising in the West which threatened immediate rain; he looked about for a shelter but could find none without being in great danger of being blown into the river should the wind prove as violent as it sometimes is on those occasions in these plains; at length about a 1/4 of a mile above the falls he discovered a deep rivene where there were some shelving rocks under which he took shelter near the river with Sharbono and the Indian woman; laying their guns compass &c. under a shelving rock on the upper side of the rivene where they were perfectly secure from the rain. the first shower was moderate accompanyed by a violent rain the effects of which they did but little feel; soon after a most violent torrent of rain decended accompanyed with hail; the rain appeared to decend in a body and instantly collected in the rivene and came down in a roling torrent with irrisistable force driving rocks mud and everything before it which opposed it's passage, Capt. C. fortunately discovered it a moment before it reached them and seizing his gun and shot pouch with his left hand with the right he assisted himself up the steep bluff shoving occasionaly the Indian woman before him who had her child in her arms; Sharbono had the woman by the hand indeavouring to pull her up the hill but was so much frightened that he remained frequently motionless and but for Capt. C. both himself and his woman and child must have perished. so suddon was the rise of the water that before Capt C could reach his gun and begin to ascend the bank it was up to his waist and wet his watch; and he could scarcely ascend faster than it arrose till it had obtained the debth of 15 feet with a current tremendious to behold. one moment longer & it would have swept them into the river just above the great cataract of 87 feet where they must have inevitably perished. Sarbono lost his gun shot pouch, horn, tomahawk, and my wiping rod; Capt. Clark his Umbrella and compas or circumferenter. they fortunately arrived on the plain safe, where they found the black man, York, in surch of them; york had seperated from them a little while before the storm, in pursuit of some buffaloe and had not seen them enter the rivene; when this gust came on he returned in surch of them & not being able to find them for some time was much allarmed. the bier in which the woman carrys her child and all it's cloaths wer swept away as they lay at her feet she having time only to grasp her child; the infant was therefore very cold and the woman also who had just recovered from a severe indisposition was also wet and cold, Capt C. therefore relinquished his intended rout and returned to the camp at willow run in order also to obtain dry cloathes for himself and directed them to follow him. on Capt. Clark's arrival at camp he found that the party dispatched for the baggage had returned in great confusion and consternation leaving their loads in the plains; the men who were all nearly naked and no covering on the head were sorely mawled with the hail which was so large and driven with such force by the wind that it nocked many of them (town and one particulary as many as three times most of them were bleeding freely and complained of being much bruised. willow run raised about 6 feet with this rain and the plains were so wet they could do nothing more this evening. Capt. C. gave the party a dram to console them in some measure for their general defeat.
Shortly after the rain that fell early this morning, he found it impossible for the group to reach the upper end of the portage with their current load, so he sent most of the party back to retrieve the baggage they had left behind yesterday. He decided to go via the river to camp to make up for the notes and observations he had lost when he first ascended the river. He left one man at Willow Run to guard the baggage and took with him his black man York, along with Sharbono and his Indian woman. When he arrived at the falls, he noticed a dark cloud rising in the west that threatened immediate rain. He looked for shelter but couldn't find any that wouldn’t put him in danger of being blown into the river by the strong winds common in this area. Finally, about a quarter of a mile above the falls, he discovered a deep ravine with some overhanging rocks under which he took shelter near the river with Sharbono and the Indian woman. They laid their guns, compass, etc., under a ledge on the upper side of the ravine, where they were completely safe from the rain. The first shower was moderate, accompanied by heavy rain, but they didn’t feel much of its effects. Soon after, a violent torrent of rain fell, accompanied by hail; the rain seemed to come down in a massive surge, instantly filling the ravine and rushing down in a rolling torrent with unstoppable force, sweeping away rocks, mud, and anything else in its way. Capt. C. thankfully noticed it just moments before it reached them and grabbed his gun and shot pouch with his left hand while using his right to help himself up the steep bank, occasionally pushing the Indian woman, who was carrying her child, ahead of him. Sharbono held the woman's hand, trying to pull her up the hill but was so frightened that he often froze in place, and without Capt. C., both he and the woman with her child would have surely drowned. The water rose so suddenly that by the time Capt. C. could get to his gun and start climbing the bank, it was already up to his waist and wet his watch; he could barely climb faster than it was rising until it reached a depth of 15 feet, with a terrifying current. Just one moment more, and it would have swept them into the river above the great 87-foot waterfall where they would have certainly drowned. Sharbono lost his gun, shot pouch, horn, tomahawk, and my wiping rod; Capt. Clark lost his umbrella and compass. Luckily, they reached the plain safely, where they found York searching for them; he had separated from them shortly before the storm while tracking buffalo and hadn’t seen them enter the ravine. When the wind picked up, he returned looking for them, and not finding them for some time, he became very worried. The cradle where the woman carried her child and all its clothes were swept away as they lay at her feet, and she only had time to grab her child; the infant was therefore very cold, and the woman, who had just recovered from a serious illness, was also wet and cold. Capt. C. decided to abandon his intended route and return to the camp at Willow Run to get dry clothes for himself and instructed them to follow him. When Capt. Clark arrived at camp, he found the party dispatched for the baggage had returned in great disarray and panic, leaving their loads in the plains. The men were nearly naked, had no head covering, and were seriously battered by the hail, which was so large and driven with such force by the wind that it knocked many of them down—one in particular got knocked down as many as three times. Most of them were bleeding freely and complained of being badly bruised. Willow Run had risen about 6 feet from the rain, and the plains were so soaked they could do nothing more that evening. Capt. C. gave the party a drink to somewhat console them after their overall defeat.
[Clark, June 29, 1805]
Junne 29th Saltarday 1805 a little rain verry early this morning after Clear, finding that the Prarie was So wet as to render it impossible to pass on to the end of the portage, deturmined to Send hack to the top of the hill at the Creek for the remaining part of the baggage left at that place yesterday, leaveing one man to take care of the baggage at this place. I deturmined any Self to proceed on to the falls and take the river, according we all Set out., I took my Servent & one man Chabono our Interpreter & his Squar accompanied, Soon after I arrived at the falls, I perceived a Cloud which appeared black and threaten imediate rain, I looked out for a Shelter but Could See no place without being in great danger of being blown into the river if the wind Should prove as turbelant as it is at Some times about 1/4 of a mile above the falls I obsd a Deep rivein in which was Shelveing rocks under which we took Shelter near the river and placed our guns the Compass &c. &c. Under a Shelveing rock on the upper Side of the Creek, in a place which was verry Secure from rain, the first Shower was moderate accompanied with a violent wind, the effects of which we did not feel, Soon after a torrent of rain and hail fell more violent than ever I Saw before, the rain fell like one voley of water falling from the heavens and gave us time only to get out of the way of a torrent of water which was Poreing down the hill in the rivin with emence force tareing every thing before it takeing with it large rocks & mud, I took my gun & Shot pouch in my left hand, and with the right Scrambled up the hill pushing the Interpreters wife (who had her Child in her arms) before me, the Interpreter himself makeing attempts to pull up his wife by the hand much Scared and nearly without motion—we at length retched the top of the hill Safe where I found my Servent in Serch of us greatly agitated, for our wellfar-. before I got out of the bottom of the revein which was a flat dry rock when I entered it, the water was up to my waste & wet my watch, I Scrcely got out before it raised 10 feet deep with a torrent which turrouble to behold, and by the time I reached the top of the hill, at least 15 feet water, I directed the party to return to the Camp at the run as fast as possible to get to our lode where Clothes Could be got to Cover the Child whose Clothes were all lost, and the woman who was but just recovering from a Severe indispostion, and was wet and Cold, I was fearfull of a relaps I caused her as also the others of the party to take a little Spirits, which my Servent had in a Canteen, which revived verry much. on arrival at the Camp on the willow run-met the party who had returned in great Confusion to the run leaveing their loads in the Plain, the hail & wind being So large and violent in the plains, and them naked, they were much brused, and Some nearly killed one knocked down three times, and others without hats or any thing on their heads bloodey & Complained verry much; I refreshed them with a little grog—Soon after the run began to rise and rose 6 feet in a few minits-. I lost at the river in the torrent the large Compas, an eligant fusee, Tomahawk Humbrallo, Shot pouh, & horn wih powder & Ball, mockersons, & the woman lost her Childs Bear & Clothes bedding &c.—The Compass is a Serious loss; as we have no other large one. The plains are So wet that we Can do nothing this evining particilarly as two deep reveins are between ourselves & Load
June 29th, Saturday, 1805. It rained a little early this morning after being clear. Realizing that the prairie was so wet, it was impossible to continue to the end of the portage, I decided to send back to the top of the hill at the creek for the remaining baggage left there yesterday, leaving one man to take care of the baggage at this location. I determined to proceed to the falls myself and take the river. Accordingly, we all set out; I took my servant and one man, Chabono, our interpreter, and his wife accompanied us. Soon after I arrived at the falls, I noticed a cloud that looked black and threatened immediate rain. I searched for shelter but couldn’t see any place without the risk of being blown into the river if the wind became as turbulent as it sometimes is. About a quarter of a mile above the falls, I observed a deep ravine with overhanging rocks under which we took shelter near the river, placing our guns, compass, etc., under a ledge on the upper side of the creek in a spot that was very secure from the rain. The first shower was moderate but came with a violent wind, the effects of which we didn’t feel. Soon after, a torrential downpour of rain and hail fell more violently than I had ever seen before. The rain fell like one continuous stream of water pouring from the heavens and gave us just enough time to move out of the way of a torrent of water that was rushing down the hill in the ravine with immense force, tearing everything in its path and taking large rocks and mud with it. I took my gun and shot pouch in my left hand and scrambled up the hill with my right, pushing the interpreter's wife (who was holding her child) ahead of me. The interpreter himself was trying to pull his wife by the hand, very scared and nearly frozen in place. Eventually, we reached the top of the hill safely, where I found my servant searching for us, greatly agitated about our well-being. Before I got out of the bottom of the ravine, where I had entered on a flat, dry rock, the water was up to my waist and wet my watch. I barely managed to get out before it rose to 10 feet deep in a torrent that was terrifying to behold, and by the time I reached the top of the hill, it was at least 15 feet deep. I directed the party to return to the camp at the run as quickly as possible to get to our load where clothes could be found to cover the child, whose clothes were all lost, and the woman, who was just recovering from a severe illness and was now wet and cold. I was fearful of her relapsing, so I had her and the others in the party take a little spirits, which my servant had in a canteen, and that helped revive them considerably. Upon arriving at the camp at Willow Run, I met the party who had returned in great confusion, leaving their loads in the plain. The hail and wind were so large and violent in the plains, and they were naked; many were bruised, and some were nearly killed—one person was knocked down three times, and others were without hats or anything on their heads, bloodied, and complained a lot. I refreshed them with a little grog. Shortly after, the run began to rise, and it rose six feet in just a few minutes. I lost at the river in the torrent a large compass, an elegant fowling piece, a tomahawk, my shot pouch, and horn with powder and ball, moccasins, and the woman lost her child's bear and clothes, bedding, etc. The compass is a serious loss, as we don’t have another large one. The plains are so wet that we can do nothing this evening, particularly since there are two deep ravines between us and our load.
[Lewis, June 30, 1805]
Sunday June 30th 1805.
Sunday, June 30, 1805.
We had a heavy dew this morning which is a remarkable event. Fraizer
and Whitehouse still continue their opperation of sewing the skins together. I set Shields and gass to shaving bark and Fields continued to make the cross brases. Drewyer and myself rendered a considerable quantity of tallow and cooked. I begin to be extremely impatient to be off as the season is now waisting a pace nearly three months have now elapsed since we left Fort Mandan and not yet reached the Rocky Mountains I am therefore fully preswaded that we shall not reach Fort Mandan again this season if we even return from the ocean to the Snake Indians. wherever we find timber there is also beaver; Drewyer killed two today. There are a number of large bat or goatsucker here I killed one of them and found that there was no difference between them and those common to the U States; I have not seen the leather winged bat for some time nor is there any of the small goatsuckers in this quarter of the country. we have not the whip-poor-will either. this last is by many persons in the U States confounded with the large goat-sucker or night-hawk as it is called in the Eastern States, and are taken for the same bird. it is true that there is a great resemblance but they are distinct species of the goatsucker. here the one exists without the other. the large goat sucker lays it's eggs in these open plains without the preperation of a nest we have found their eggs in several instances they lay only two before they set nor do I beleive that they raise more than one brood in a season; they have now just hatched their young.—This evening the bark was shaved and the leather covering for the sections were also completed and I had them put into the water, in order to toughen the bark, and prepare the leather for sewing on the sections in the morning. it has taken 28 Elk skins and 4 Buffaloe skins to complete her. the crossbars are also finished this evening; we have therefore only the way strips now to obtain in order to complete the wood work, and this I fear will be a difficult task. The party have not returned from the lower camp I am therefore fearfull that some uncommon accedent has happened.
and Whitehouse are still working on sewing the skins together. I had Shields and Gass shave bark while Fields continued making the cross braces. Drewyer and I processed a significant amount of tallow and cooked. I'm getting really impatient to leave since the season is slipping away—nearly three months have passed since we left Fort Mandan, and we haven’t even reached the Rocky Mountains yet. I’m fully convinced that we won’t make it back to Fort Mandan this season, even if we return from the ocean to the Snake Indians. Wherever we find timber, we also find beaver; Drewyer killed two today. There are a number of large bats or goatsuckers here; I shot one and found it was no different from those common in the U.S. I haven't seen the leather-winged bat for a while, nor have I spotted any of the small goatsuckers in this area. We don’t have the whip-poor-will either. Many people in the U.S. confuse this last bird with the large goat-sucker or night-hawk, as it's called in the Eastern States, thinking they are the same bird. It’s true there’s a strong resemblance, but they are distinct species of goatsucker. One exists here without the other. The large goatsucker lays its eggs in these open plains without making a nest; we have found their eggs on several occasions. They lay only two before they sit, and I don’t believe they raise more than one brood in a season; they have just hatched their young. This evening, the bark has been shaved, and the leather covering for the sections is also finished, so I had them put in the water to toughen the bark and prepare the leather for sewing onto the sections in the morning. It has taken 28 elk skins and 4 buffalo skins to complete it. The crossbars are also done this evening; we just need to get the way strips to finish the woodwork, and I fear that will be a tough task. The party hasn’t returned from the lower camp, so I’m worried that something unusual has happened.
Occurrences with Capt. Clark and Party
Occurrences with Capt. Clark and Party
This morning Capt. Clark dispatched two men to kill some buffaloe, two others to the falls to surch for the articles lost yesterday, one he retained to cook and sent the others for the baggage left in the plains yesterday. the hunters soon returned loaded with meat those sent for the baggage brought it up in a few hours, he then set four men at work to make axeltrees and repare the carrages; the others he employed in conveying the baggage over the run on their sholders it having now fallent to about 3 feet water. the men complained much today of the bruises and wounds which they had received yesterday from the hail. the two men sent to the falls returned with the compas which they found covered in the mud and sand near the mouth of the rivene the other articles were irrecoverably lost. they found that part of rivene in; which Capt. C. had been seting yesterday, filled with huge rocks. at 11 A.M. Capt. Clark dispatched the party with a load of the baggage as far as the 6 miles stake, with orders to deposit it there and return with the carriages which they did accordingly. they experienced a heavy gust of wind this evening from the S. W. after which it was a fair afternoon. more buffaloe than usual were seen about their camp; Capt. C assured me that he beleives he saw at least ten thousand at one view.
This morning, Capt. Clark sent two men to hunt some buffalo, two others to the falls to search for the items lost yesterday, and kept one man to cook while sending the rest to retrieve the baggage left on the plains yesterday. The hunters quickly returned loaded with meat, and those sent for the baggage brought it back in a few hours. He then set four men to work making axletrees and repairing the carriages; the others helped carry the baggage across the stream on their shoulders, as the water had now dropped to about three feet. The men complained a lot today about the bruises and wounds they received yesterday from the hail. The two men sent to the falls returned with the compass, which they found covered in mud and sand near the mouth of the river. The other items were irretrievably lost. They found the part of the river where Capt. C. had been working yesterday filled with huge rocks. At 11 A.M., Capt. Clark sent a party with a load of baggage as far as the six-mile stake, instructing them to drop it there and return with the carriages, which they did. They experienced a strong gust of wind from the southwest this evening, but it turned into a nice afternoon. More buffalo than usual were seen around their camp; Capt. C assured me that he believed he saw at least ten thousand in one view.
[Clark, June 30, 1805]
June 30th Sunday 1805. a fair morning, I dispatch the party except 5 for the remaining baggage Scattered in the plains, two to hunt for meat, two to the falls, and one to Cook at 10 oClock the hunters Came in loaded with fat meat, & those were dispatched for the baggage returned with it. I Set 4 men to make new axeltrees & repare the Carrages, others to take the load across the run which had fallen & is about 3 feet water, men Complain of being Swore this day dull and lolling about, The two men dispatched in Serch of the articls lost yesterday returned and brought the Compass which they found in the mud & Stones near the mouth of the revein, no other articles found, the place I Sheltered under filled up with hugh Rocks, I Set the party out at 11 oClock to take a load to the 6 mile Stake & return this evening, and I intend to take on the ballance to the river tomorrow if the prarie will permit. at 3 oClock a Storm of wind from the S. W. after which we had a clear evening. Great numbers of Buffalow in every direction, I think 10,000 may be Seen in a view.
June 30th, Sunday, 1805. It was a nice morning. I sent most of the party out, leaving only 5 behind for the remaining supplies scattered across the plains—two went hunting for meat, two went to the falls, and one stayed to cook. At 10 o'clock, the hunters came back loaded with plenty of fat meat, and those who were sent for the supplies returned with them. I assigned four men to make new axletrees and repair the carts while others took the load across the stream, which had swollen to about three feet deep. The men complained about feeling bored and just hanging around all day. The two men sent to look for the items lost yesterday returned and brought back the compass they found in the mud and stones near the mouth of the river; no other items were found. The spot I sheltered under is now filled with huge rocks. I sent the party out at 11 o'clock to deliver a load to the 6-mile stake and return this evening. I plan to take the rest to the river tomorrow if the prairie allows. At 3 o'clock, we had a storm from the southwest, after which the evening cleared up. There are huge numbers of buffalo in every direction; I believe around 10,000 can be seen at once.
[Lewis, July 1, 1805]
Monday July 1st 1805. This morning I set Frazier and Whitehouse to sewing the leather on the sides of the sections of the boat; Shields and J. Fields to collect and split light wood and prepare a pit to make tar. Gas I set at work to make the way strips out of some willow limbs which tho indifferent were the best which could be obtained. Drewyer and myself completed the opperation of rendering the tallow; we obtained about 100 lbs. by evening the skins were all attatched to their sections and I returned them again to the water. all matters were now in readiness to commence the opperation of puting the parts of the boat together in the morning. the way strips are not yet ready but will be done in time as I have obtained the necessary timber. the difficulty in obtaining the necessary materials has retarded my operations in forming this boat extreemly tedious and troublesome; and as it was a novel peice of machinism to all who were employed my constant attention was necessary to every part of the work; this together with the duties of cheif cook has kept me pretty well employed. at 3 P.M. Capt. Clark arrived with the party all very much fortiegued. he brought with him all the baggage except what he had deposited yesterday at the six mile stake, for which the party were too much fortiegued to return this evening. we gave them a dram and suffered them to rest from their labours this evening. I directed Bratton to assist in making the tar tomorrow, and scelected several others to assist in puting the boat together. the day has been warm and the Musquetoes troublesome of course the bear were about our camp all last night, we have therefore determined to beat up their quarters tomorrow, and kill them or drive them from their haunts about this place.
Monday, July 1st, 1805. This morning, I assigned Frazier and Whitehouse to sew the leather onto the sides of the boat sections; Shields and J. Fields were tasked with collecting and splitting light wood and preparing a pit to make tar. I had Gas work on creating the way strips from some willow branches that, although not great, were the best we could get. Drewyer and I finished rendering the tallow; by evening, we had about 100 lbs. The skins were all attached to their sections, and I returned them to the water. Everything was ready to start putting the parts of the boat together in the morning. The way strips aren’t ready yet, but they will be in time since I’ve obtained the necessary timber. The difficulty in gathering the materials has made building this boat extremely tedious and challenging. Since it was a new piece of machinery for everyone involved, I needed to pay constant attention to every part of the work; alongside my duties as chief cook, this kept me quite busy. At 3 PM, Capt. Clark arrived with the party, all of them very tired. He brought all the baggage except what he had left yesterday at the six-mile stake, which the party was too exhausted to retrieve this evening. We gave them a drink and let them rest from their efforts. I instructed Bratton to help with making the tar tomorrow and selected several others to assist with putting the boat together. It was a warm day, and the mosquitoes were bothersome, so bears had been around our camp all last night. We’ve decided to search for their dens tomorrow and either kill them or drive them away from this area.
[Clark, July 1, 1805]
White Bear Islands above the Falls of the Missouri July 1st Monday 1805 I arrived at this place to day at 3 oClock P.M. with the party from the lower part of the portage much fatigued &c.
White Bear Islands above the Falls of the Missouri July 1st Monday 1805 I arrived at this place today at 3 o'clock PM with the group from the lower part of the portage, feeling very tired, etc.
[Clark, July 1, 1805]
July 1st Monday 1805. We Set out early this morning with the remaining load, and proceeded on verry well to Capt Lewis's Camp where we arrived at 3 oClock, the Day worm and party much fatigued, found Capt. Lewis and party all buisey employd in fitting up the Iron boat, the wind hard from the S, W,—one man verry unwell, his legs & theis broke out and Swelled the hail which fell at Capt. Lewis Camp 27 Ins was 7 Inches in circumfrance & waied 3 ounces, fortunately for us it was not So large in the plains, if it had we Should most certainly fallen victims to its rage as the men were mostly naked, and but few with hats or any covering on their heads, The hunters killed 3 white bear one large, the fore feet of which measured 9 Inchs across, the hind feet 11 Inchs 3/4 long & 7 Inch's wide a bear nearly Catching Joseph Fields Chased him into the water, bear about the Camp every night & Seen on an Isld. in the day
July 1st, Monday, 1805. We set out early this morning with the remaining load and made good progress to Captain Lewis's camp, where we arrived at 3 o'clock. The day was warm, and our party was pretty tired. We found Captain Lewis and his team busy working on the iron boat. The wind was strong from the southwest. One man was feeling very unwell; his legs and thighs had broken out and swollen. The hail that fell at Captain Lewis's camp measured 27 inches, with some pieces being 7 inches in circumference and weighing 3 ounces. Luckily for us, it wasn't that large on the plains; if it had been, we would have likely fallen victim to its fury, as most of the men were mostly naked, and very few had hats or any kind of head covering. The hunters killed 3 white bears, one of which was large; its forefeet measured 9 inches across, the hind feet were 11¾ inches long and 7 inches wide. A bear nearly caught Joseph Fields, chasing him into the water. Bears have been around the camp every night and seen on an island during the day.
[Lewis, July 2, 1805]
Tuesday July 2cd 1805 A shower of rain fell very early this morning after which we dispatched the men for the remaining baggage at the 6 mile stake. Shields and Bratton seting their tarkiln, Sergts. Pryor and Gass at work on the waystrips and myself and all other hands engaged in puting the boat together which we accomplished in about 3 hours and I then set four men at work sewing the leather over the cross bars of Iron on the inner side of the boat, which form the ends of the sections. about 2 P.M. the party returned with the baggage, all well pleased that they had completed the laborious task of the portage. The Musquetoes uncommonly troublesome the wind hard from the S. W. all day I think it possible that these almost perpetual S. W. winds proceede from the agency of the Snowey Mountains and the wide level and untimbered plains which streach themselves along their bases for an immence distance (i e) that the air comeing in contact with the snow is suddonly chilled and condenced, thus becoming heaver than the air beneath in the plains, it glides down the sides of these mountains & decends to the plains, where by the constant action of the sun on the face of an untimbered country there is a partial vacuum formed for it's reception. I have observed that the winds from this quarter are always the coldest and most violent which we experience, yet I am far from giving full credit to my own hypothesis on this subject; if hoever I find on the opposite side of these mountains that the winds take a contrary direction I shall then have more faith. After I had completed my observation of Equal Altitudes today Capt. Clark Myself and 12 men passed over to the large Island to hunt bear. the brush in that part of it where the bear frequent is an almost impenetrable thicket of the broad leafed willow; this brush we entered in small parties of 3 or four together and surched in every part. we found one only which made at Drewyer and he shot him in the brest at the distance of about 20 feet, the ball fortunately passed through his heart, the stroke knocked the bear down and gave Drewyer time to get out of his sight; the bear changed his course we pursued him about a hundred yards by the blood and found him dead; we surched the thicket in every part but found no other, and therefore returned. this was a young male and would weigh about 400 lbs. the water of the Missouri here is in most places about 10 feet deep. after our return, in moving some of the baggage we caught a large rata it was somewhat larger than the common European rat, of lighter colour; the body and outer part of the legs and head of a light lead colour, the belly and inner side of the legs white as were also the feet and years. the toes were longer and the ears much larger than the common rat; the ears uncovered with hair. the eyes were black and prominent the whiskers very long and full. the tail was reather longer than the body and covered with fine fur or poil of the same length and colour of the back. the fur was very silkey close and short. I have frequently seen the nests of these rats in clifts of rocks and hollow trees but never before saw one of them. they feed very much on the fruit and seed of the prickly pear; or at least I have seen large quantities of the hulls of that fruit lying about their holes and in their nests.
Tuesday, July 2, 1805. A shower of rain fell very early this morning. After that, we sent the men to get the remaining baggage at the 6-mile mark. Shields and Bratton set up their tar kiln, Sergeants Pryor and Gass worked on the way straps, while I and the other hands worked on putting the boat together, which we finished in about 3 hours. I then set four men to sew the leather over the iron crossbars on the inner side of the boat, which form the ends of the sections. Around 2 PM, the party came back with the baggage, all happy that they had completed the hard work of the portage. The mosquitoes were especially bothersome, and the wind blew hard from the southwest all day. I think it’s possible that these nearly constant southwest winds come from the influence of the Snowy Mountains and the wide, flat, treeless plains that stretch along their bases for an immense distance. The air, coming into contact with the snow, gets suddenly chilled and condensed, becoming heavier than the air below in the plains. It then glides down the mountainsides and descends to the plains, where the constant sunlight on the bare land creates a partial vacuum for its arrival. I've noticed that the winds from this direction are always the coldest and most violent that we experience, yet I'm far from fully believing my own theory on this. However, if I discover that the winds on the opposite side of these mountains go in the opposite direction, I will have more faith. After I finished my observations of equal altitudes today, Captain Clark, I, and 12 men crossed over to the large island to hunt bears. The brush in that part, where the bears frequent, is an almost impenetrable thicket of broadleaf willow. We entered this brush in small groups of 3 or 4 and searched every part. We found only one bear, which took off running. Drewyer shot it in the chest from about 20 feet away. Fortunately, the bullet went through its heart, knocking the bear down and giving Drewyer time to move out of its sight. The bear changed direction, and we tracked it about a hundred yards by the blood and found it dead. We searched the thicket thoroughly but found no others, so we returned. This was a young male and probably weighed about 400 lbs. The water in the Missouri here is about 10 feet deep in most places. After we returned, while moving some of the baggage, we caught a large rat. It was somewhat larger than the common European rat and had a lighter color. The body and outer part of the legs and head were a light lead color, while the belly and inner side of the legs were white, as were the feet and ears. The toes were longer, and the ears were much larger than those of the common rat, uncovered with hair. The eyes were black and prominent, and the whiskers were very long and full. The tail was a bit longer than the body and covered with fine fur of the same length and color as the back. The fur was very silky, close, and short. I have often seen the nests of these rats in rock cliffs and hollow trees, but I had never seen one of them before. They feed a lot on the fruit and seeds of prickly pears; at least, I have seen large quantities of the hulls of that fruit lying around their holes and in their nests.
[Clark, July 2, 1805]
July 2nd Tuesday 1805 Some rain at day light this morning. dispatched the party for the remaining baggage left at the 6 mile Stake, they returned in the evening and we Crossed to a large Island nearly opposit to us to kill bear which has been Seen frequently in the Island, we killed one bear & returned at Sun Set. The Roreing of the falls for maney miles above us
July 2nd, Tuesday, 1805 Some rain at dawn this morning. I sent the team to collect the remaining luggage left at the 6-mile stake. They came back in the evening, and we crossed over to a large island almost directly across from us to hunt bears, which have been spotted frequently on the island. We killed one bear and returned at sunset. The roaring of the falls could be heard for many miles above us.
[Clark, July 2, 1805]
July 2nd Tuesday 1805 Some rain at day light this morn'g after which a fair morning, dispatched the men for the Kegs &c. left at the Six mile Stake, others to get timber for the boat &c. Musquetors verry troublesom to day, day worm, after the return of the men with the articles left at the 6 mile Stake Capt. Lewis my Self & 12 men Crossed to an Island on which we Saw a bear the evening before, & Several had been Seen by the party at this place, we killed one of the bear and returned. The river at this place is ____ yards wide and about 10 feet water Cought a rat in our Stores, which had done some mischief, this rat was about the Sise of a Comn. large rat, larger ears, long whiskers & toes, with a tail long & hairey like a ground Squirel, verry fine fur and lighter than the Common rat. Wind to day as usial from the S. W. and hard all the after part of the day, those winds are also Cool and generally verry hard.
July 2nd, Tuesday 1805 There was some rain at daybreak this morning, after which it turned into a nice morning. I sent the men to retrieve the kegs and other items left at the Six Mile Stake, while others went to get timber for the boat. The mosquitoes were very bothersome today; it was warm. After the men returned with the items from the Six Mile Stake, Captain Lewis, myself, and 12 men crossed to an island where we saw a bear the evening before, and several others had been spotted by the party at that location. We killed one bear and headed back. The river at this point is ____ yards wide and about 10 feet deep. I caught a rat in our supplies that had caused some trouble. This rat was about the size of a common large rat, with larger ears, long whiskers and toes, and a tail that was long and furry like a ground squirrel. It had very fine fur and was lighter than a common rat. The wind today, as usual, came from the southwest and was strong throughout the afternoon. These winds are also cool and generally quite strong.
[Lewis, July 3, 1805]
Wednesday July 3rd 1805. This morning early we employed all hands; some were making tar or attempting to make it, others were attatching the skins on the boat, other cuting and fiting the bark for lining puting in the woodworke &c some hunters were sent out to kill buffaloe in order to make pemecon to take with us and also for their skins which we now want to cover our baggage in the boat and canoes when we depart from hence. the Indians have informed us that we should shortly leave the buffaloe country after passing the falls; this I much regret for I know when we leave the buffaloe that we shal sometimes be under the necessity of fasting occasionally. and at all events the white puddings will be irretreivably lost and Sharbono out of imployment. our tar-kiln which ought to have began to run this morning has yealded no tar as yet and I am much affraid will not yeald any, if so I fear the whole opperation of my boat will be useless. I fear I have committed another blunder also in sewing the skins with a nedle which has sharp edges these have cut the skin and as it drys I discover that the throng dose not fill the holes as I expected tho I made them sew with a large throng for that purpose. at 10 OCk A.M. we had a slight shower which scarcely wet the grass. One buffaloe only and 2 Antelopes killed today six beaver and 2 otter have been killed within the last three days. The current of the river looks so gentle and inviting that the men all seem anxious to be moving upward as well as ourselves. we have got the boat prety well forward today and think we shall be able to complete her tomorrow except paying her, to do which will require some little time to make her first perfectly dry. she has assumed her shape and looks extreemly well. She will be very light, more so than any vessel of her size that I ever saw.
Wednesday, July 3rd, 1805. This morning, we had everyone working early; some were trying to make tar, others were attaching the skins to the boat, and some were cutting and fitting the bark for the lining and putting in the woodwork, etc. A few hunters went out to catch buffalo to make pemmican to take with us, as well as for their skins, which we now need to cover our supplies in the boat and canoes when we leave here. The Indians have told us that we will soon be leaving the buffalo country after passing the falls; I really regret this because I know that once we leave the buffalo, we’ll sometimes have to go without food. And in any case, the white puddings will be irretrievably lost, and Sharbono will be out of work. Our tar kiln, which was supposed to start producing tar this morning, hasn’t yielded any so far, and I’m really worried it won’t produce any at all. If it doesn’t, I fear the whole operation for my boat will be pointless. I think I've made another mistake in sewing the skins with a needle that has sharp edges; it has cut through the skin, and as it dries, I see that the thread doesn’t fill the holes as I expected, even though I had them sew with a large thread for that purpose. At 10 A.M., we had a light shower that barely wet the grass. Only one buffalo and two antelopes were killed today; six beavers and two otters have been caught in the last three days. The river current looks so gentle and inviting that everyone, including us, seems eager to move upstream. We’ve made good progress on the boat today and think we’ll finish it tomorrow, except for paying it, which will take some time to make it perfectly dry first. It has taken shape and looks extremely good. It will be very light, lighter than any vessel of its size that I’ve ever seen.
[Clark, July 3, 1805]
July 3rd Wednesday 1805 all of party employd in Sowing the Skins to the boat, burning Tare, preparing timber, hunting buffalow for their meat & Skins, drying & repacking the Stores, Goods &c. &c. at 1 oClock began to rain. in the evening the hunters killed two antilopes & a Buffalow.
July 3rd, Wednesday, 1805: everyone in the party was busy sewing the skins to the boat, burning tare, preparing timber, hunting buffalo for their meat and skins, and drying and repacking the stores, goods, etc. At 1 o'clock, it started to rain. In the evening, the hunters killed two antelopes and a buffalo.
[Clark, July 3, 1805]
July 3rd Wednesday 1805 A fine morning wind from the S. W all the party employd, Some about the boat, attaching the Skins & Sowing them to the Sections, others prepareing timber, Some, burning tar of the drift pine, Some airring and repacking the Stores & Goods, & others hunting for Meet to make pemitigon & for the use of their Skins to Cover the Canoes & boat,-. a Small Shower at 1 oClock which did Scercely wet the grass-. one buffalow and two Antilopes Killed this evening. Six beaver & 2 orters has been Killed at this camp within a fiew days we discover no fish above the falls as yet—the only timber in this part of the Countrey is willow, a fiew Cotton trees which is neither large nor tall, Boxalders and red wood. (Boil roche arrow wood)
July 3rd, Wednesday, 1805 It was a nice morning with a wind from the southwest. Everyone in the group was busy—some were working on the boat, attaching the skins and sewing them to the sections, others were preparing timber, some were burning tar from drift pine, some were airing and repacking the supplies and goods, and others were hunting for meat to make pemmican and for the use of their skins to cover the canoes and boat. There was a light shower at 1 o'clock that barely wet the grass. One buffalo and two antelopes were killed this evening. Six beavers and two otters have been killed at this camp in the last few days. We haven't seen any fish above the falls yet. The only timber in this part of the country is willow, a few cottonwood trees, which are neither large nor tall, boulders, and redwood (boiling arrow wood).
The water tolerably clear and Soft in the river, Current jentle and bottoms riseing from the water; no appearance of the river riseing more than a few feet above the falls, as high up as we have yet explored. but few trees on the Std Side the grass is high and fine near the river. the winds has blown for Several days from the S. W. I think it possible that those almost perpetial S W. winds, proceed from the agency of the Snowey mountains and the wide leavel and untimbered plains which Streach themselves along their borders for an emence distance, that the air comeing in Contact with the Snow is Suddenly chilled and condensed, thus becomeing heavyer than the air beneath in the plains it glides down the Sides of those mountains and decends to the plains, where by the constant action of the Sun on the face of the untimbered country there is a partial vacuom formed for it's reception I have observed that the winds from this quarter is always the Coaldest and most violent which we experience, yet I am far from giveing full credit to this hypothesis on this Subject; if I find however on the opposit Side of these mountains that the winds take a contrary direction I Shall then have full faith. (The winds take a contrary direction in the morning or from the mountains on the west Side)
The water in the river is fairly clear and soft, with a gentle current and rising bottoms. There’s no sign of the river getting more than a few feet higher than the falls in the areas we’ve explored so far. There are only a few trees on the south side, and the grass near the river is tall and nice. The wind has been blowing from the southwest for several days. I think it's possible that these almost constant southwest winds are influenced by the snowy mountains and the wide, flat, and treeless plains that stretch along their edges for a great distance. The air coming into contact with the snow gets suddenly chilled and condensed, making it heavier than the air in the plains. This heavier air slides down the sides of the mountains and descends to the plains, where the sun’s constant action on the treeless land creates a partial vacuum that pulls it in. I have noticed that the winds from this direction are always the coldest and most violent we experience, but I'm not fully convinced by this theory. However, if I find that the winds on the opposite side of these mountains blow in a different direction, I will be completely convinced. (The winds blow in a different direction in the morning or from the mountains on the west side.)
[Lewis, July 4, 1805]
Thursday July 4th 1805. Yesterday we permitted Sergt. Gass McNeal and several others who had not yet seen the falls to visit them. no appearance of tar yet and I am now confident that we shall not be able to obtain any; a serious misfortune. I employed a number of hands on the boat today and by 4 P.M. in the evening completed her except the most difficult part of the work that of making her seams secure. I had her turned up and some small fires kindled underneath to dry her. Capt. C. completed a draught of the river from Fort Mandan to this place which we intend depositing at this place in order to guard against accedents. not having seen the Snake Indians or knowing in fact whether to calculate on their friendship or hostility or friendship we have conceived our party sufficiently small and therefore have concluded not to dispatch a canoe with a part of our men to St. Louis as we had intended early in the spring. we fear also that such a measure might possibly discourage those who would in such case remain, and might possibly hazzard the fate of the expedition. we have never once hinted to any one of the party that we had such a scheme in contemplation, and all appear perfectly to have made up their minds to suceed in the expedition or purish in the attempt. we all beleive that we are now about to enter on the most perilous and difficult part of our voyage, yet I see no one repining; all appear ready to met those difficulties which wait us with resolution and becoming fortitude. we had a heavy dew this morning. the clouds near these mountains rise suddonly and discharge their contents partially on the neighbouring plains; the same cloud will discharge hail alone in one part hail and rain in another and rain only in a third all within the space of a few miles; and on the Mountains to the S. E. of us sometimes snow. at present there is no snow on those mountains; that which covered them when we first saw them and which has fallen on them several times since has all disappeared. the Mountains to the N. W. & W. of us are still entirely covered are white and glitter with the reflection of the sun. I do not beleive that the clouds which prevail at this season of the year reach the summits of those lofty mountains; and if they do the probability is that they deposit snow only for there has been no perceptible deminution of the snow which they contain since we first saw them. I have thought it probable that these mountains might have derived their appellation of shining Mountains, from their glittering appearance when the sun shines in certain directions on the snow which covers them. since our arrival at the falls we have repeatedly witnessed a nois which proceeds from a direction a little to the N. of West as loud and resembling precisely the discharge of a piece of ordinance of 6 pounds at the distance of three miles. I was informed of it by the men several times before I paid any attention to it, thinking it was thunder most probably which they had mistaken at length walking in the plains the other day I heard this noise very distictly, it was perfectly calm clear and not a cloud to be seen, I halted and listened attentively about an hour during which time I heard two other discharges and tok the direction of the sound with my pocket compass. I have no doubt but if I had leasure I could find from whence it issued. I have thout it probable that it might be caused by runing water in some of the caverns of those immence mountains, on the principal of the blowing caverns; but in such case the sounds would be periodical & regular, which is not the case with this, being sometimes heard once only and at other times, six or seven discharges in quick succession. it is heard also at different seasons of the day and night. I am at a loss to account for this phenomenon. our work being at an end this evening, we gave the men a drink of sperits, it being the last of our stock, and some of them appeared a little sensible of it's effects the fiddle was plyed and they danced very merrily untill 9 in the evening when a heavy shower of rain put an end to that part of the amusement tho they continued their mirth with songs and festive jokes and were extreemly merry untill late at night. we had a very comfortable dinner, of bacon, beans, suit dumplings & buffaloe beaf &c. in short we had no just cause to covet the sumptuous feasts of our countrymen on this day.—one Elk and a beaver were all that was killed by the hunters today; the buffaloe seem to have withdrawn themselves from this neighbourhood; tho the men inform us that they are still abundant about the falls.
Thursday, July 4th, 1805. Yesterday, we allowed Sergt. Gass McNeal and a few others who hadn't seen the falls yet to visit them. There's still no sign of tar, and I'm now pretty sure we won't be able to get any; that's a serious setback. I had several people working on the boat today, and by 4 PM, we finished everything except the toughest part: sealing the seams. I had the boat turned over with some small fires lit underneath to dry it. Capt. C. finished a draft of the river from Fort Mandan to this spot, which we plan to leave here to guard against accidents. Not having seen the Snake Indians or knowing whether to expect their friendship or hostility, we've decided our group is small enough, so we won’t send a canoe with some of our men to St. Louis as we initially planned in the spring. We're also worried that this move might discourage those who remain, potentially jeopardizing the whole expedition. We haven’t mentioned this plan to anyone in the party, and everyone seems completely determined to succeed in the expedition or die trying. We all believe we’re about to enter the most dangerous and challenging part of our journey, yet I see no one complaining; everyone appears ready to face the difficulties ahead with resolve and courage. We had heavy dew this morning. The clouds near these mountains rise quickly and rain partially on the nearby plains; the same cloud can drop only hail in one area, hail and rain in another, and just rain in a third, all within just a few miles. Sometimes it even snows on the mountains southeast of us. Right now, there's no snow on those mountains; the snow that covered them when we first saw them and has fallen since has all melted away. The mountains to our northwest and west are still completely covered in white, glittering in the sunlight. I don’t believe the clouds typical for this time of year reach the tops of those high mountains; and if they do, it's likely they only drop snow since we haven’t noticed any significant decrease in the snow there since we first spotted them. I think these mountains might have gotten their name "shining mountains" because of how they sparkle when the sun hits them just right. Since our arrival at the falls, we have often heard a noise coming from a direction slightly north of west, sounding like a 6-pound cannon firing three miles away. The men mentioned it to me several times before I paid attention, thinking it was probably thunder they misheard. Then, while walking in the plains the other day, I heard it very clearly; it was perfectly calm, clear, and not a cloud in the sky. I stopped and listened attentively for about an hour, during which time I heard two more discharges and pinpointed the direction of the sound with my pocket compass. I have no doubt that if I had more time, I could find its source. I thought this noise might be caused by running water in some of the vast mountain caverns, similar to the blowing caverns, but in that case, the sounds would be periodic and regular, which isn't true here, as sometimes it's heard only once and other times, six or seven times in quick succession. It’s also heard at various times throughout the day and night. I'm puzzled by this phenomenon. Once our work was done this evening, we gave the men a drink of spirits since it was the last of our supply, and some of them seemed a bit tipsy from it. The fiddle was played, and they danced happily until 9 in the evening when a heavy rain shower ended that fun, though they continued to enjoy themselves with songs and jokes and were extremely merry until late at night. We had a very satisfying dinner of bacon, beans, dumplings, and buffalo meat, etc. In short, we had no reason to envy the lavish feasts of our fellow countrymen on this day. One elk and a beaver were the only animals killed by the hunters today; the buffalo seem to have moved away from this area, although the men tell us they are still plentiful around the falls.
[Clark, July 4, 1805]
,July the 4th Thursday 1805 A fine morning, a heavy dew last night, all hands employed in Completeing the leather boat, gave the Party a dram which made Several verry lively, a black Cloud came up from the S. W, and rained a fiew drops I employ my Self drawing a Copy of the river to be left at this place for fear of Some accident in advance, I have left buried below the falls a Map of the Countrey below Fort Mandan with Sundery private papers the party amused themselves danceing untill late when a Shower of rain broke up the amusement, all lively and Chearfull, one Elk and a beaver kill'd to day. our Tar kill like to turn out nothing from the following cause.
July 4th, Thursday, 1805 It was a beautiful morning, and there was a heavy dew from last night. Everyone was busy finishing the leather boat. I gave the team a drink, which made several of them quite lively. A dark cloud came up from the southwest and rained a few drops. I spent my time drawing a map of the river to leave here in case something happens as we move forward. I left a map of the area below Fort Mandan buried below the falls, along with some private papers. The group entertained themselves by dancing until late, but a rain shower ended the fun. Everyone was lively and cheerful, and we killed one elk and a beaver today. Unfortunately, our tar seems unlikely to yield any results for the following reasons.
The climate about the falls of Missouri appears to be Singular Cloudy every day (Since our arrival near them) which rise from defferent directions and discharge themselves partially in the plains & mountains, in Some places rain others rain & hail, hail alone, and on the mountains in Some parts Snow. a rumbling like Cannon at a great distance is heard to the west if us; the Cause we Can't account
The weather around the Missouri falls seems to be unusually cloudy every day (since we got here), with clouds coming from different directions. They release precipitation in the plains and mountains—sometimes rain, sometimes a mix of rain and hail, just hail, and in some mountain areas, even snow. We can hear a rumbling noise in the west that sounds like distant cannon fire, but we can't figure out the cause.
[Lewis, July 5, 1805]
Friday July 5th 1805. This morning I had the boat removed to an open situation, scaffold her off the ground, turned her keel to the sun and kindled fires under her to dry her more expeditiously. I then set a couple of men to pounding of charcoal to form a composition with some beeswax which we have and buffaloe tallow now my only hope and resource for paying my boat; I sincerely hope it may answer yet I fear it will not. the boat in every other rispect completely answers my most sanguine expectation; she is not yet dry and eight men can carry her with the greatest ease; she is strong and will carry at least 8,000 lbs. with her suit of hands; her form is as complete as I could wish it. the stitches begin to gape very much since she has began to dry; I am now convinced this would not have been the case had the skins been sewed with a sharp point only and the leather not cut by the edges of a sharp nedle. about 8 A M. a large herd of buffaloe came near our camp and Capt. Clark with a party of the hunters indeavoured to get a shoot at them but the wind proved unfavourable and they ran off; the hunters pursued and killed three of them; we had most of the meat brought in and set a party to drying it. their skins were all brought in and streached to dry for the purpose of covering the baggage. 2 Wolves and three Antelopes also killed today. we permitted three other men to visit the falls today; these were the last of the party who had not as yet indulged themselves with this grand and interesting seen. the buffaloe again appear in great numbers about our camp and seem to be moving down the river. it is somewhat remarkable that altho you may see ten or a douzen herds of buffaloe distinctly scattered and many miles distant yet if they are undisturbed by pursuit, they will all be traveling in one direction. the men who were permitted to visit the falls today returned in the evening and reported that the buffaloe were very numerous in that quarter; and as the country is more broken near the river in that quarter we conclude to dispatch a couple of canoes tomorrow with some hunters to kill as many as will answer our purposes.
Friday, July 5th, 1805. This morning I had the boat moved to an open spot, lifted off the ground, turned her keel to the sun, and started fires underneath to dry her out faster. I then had a couple of men pounding charcoal to mix with some beeswax and buffalo tallow, which are now my only hopes for sealing the boat. I really hope it works, but I’m worried it won’t. The boat, in every other respect, meets my most optimistic expectations; she’s not dry yet, but eight men can carry her with ease; she’s strong and can hold at least 8,000 lbs. with her crew; her shape is exactly what I wanted. The stitches are starting to come apart since she began to dry; I’m now convinced this wouldn’t have happened if the skins had been sewn with a sharp point only and not cut by the edges of a sharp needle. Around 8 A.M., a large herd of buffalo came near our camp, and Captain Clark, along with a group of hunters, tried to shoot at them, but the wind was against them, and the buffalo ran off; the hunters chased them and killed three. We had most of the meat brought in and sent a group to dry it. All their skins were brought in and stretched to dry for use in covering our supplies. We also killed two wolves and three antelopes today. We allowed three other men to visit the falls today; they were the last in the party who hadn’t experienced this grand and interesting sight yet. The buffalo again appeared in great numbers around our camp and seemed to be moving down the river. It's somewhat remarkable that even if you can see ten or a dozen herds of buffalo scattered and many miles apart, if they aren’t disturbed by chasing, they all travel in the same direction. The men who visited the falls today returned in the evening and reported that there were many buffalo in that area; since the terrain is more rugged near the river there, we decided to send a couple of canoes tomorrow with some hunters to kill as many as we need.
The plains in this part of the country are not so fertile as below the entrance of the Cockkle or missel shell river and from thence down the Missouri there is also much more stone on the sides of the hills and on the broken lands than below.-
The plains in this area of the country aren't as fertile as those below the entrance of the Cockkle or Missel Shell River, and from there down the Missouri, there are also many more stones on the hillsides and on the rough terrain than further down.
[Clark, July 5, 1805]
July 5th Friday 1805 A fine morning and but little wind, worm and Sultrey at 8 oClock—I Saw a large gangue of Buffalow and prosued them with Several men the wind was unfavourable and we Could not get near them, the party Scattered & Killed 3 buffalow and brought in their Skins and Some meat, Killed 2 wolves & 3 Antilopes for their Skins, Capt. Lewis much engaged in Completeing the Leather boat. Three men went to See the Falls, Saw great numbers of Buffalow on both Sides of the river. great numbers of young black birds
July 5th, Friday, 1805. It was a nice morning with very little wind, warm and sultry. At 8 o'clock, I spotted a large herd of buffalo and pursued them with several men. The wind was against us, and we couldn't get close. The group scattered and managed to kill 3 buffalo, bringing back their hides and some meat. They also killed 2 wolves and 3 antelopes for their skins. Captain Lewis was busy completing the leather boat. Three men went to check out the falls and saw a lot of buffalo on both sides of the river, along with a great number of young blackbirds.
[Lewis, July 6, 1805]
Saturday July 6th 1805 In the couse of last night had several showers of hail and rain attended with thunder and lightning. about day a heavy storm came on from the S W attended with hail rain and a continued roar of thunder and some lightning. the hail was as large as musket balls and covered the ground perfectly. we hand some of it collected which kept very well through the day and served to cool our water. These showers and gusts keep my boat wet in dispite of my exertions. she is not yet ready for the grease and coal. after the hail and rain was over this morning we dispatched 4 hunters and two canoes to the head of the rappids as we had determined last evening. the red and yellow courants are now ripe and abundant, they are reather ascid as yet. There is a remarkable small fox which ascociate in large communities and burrow in the praries something like the small wolf but we have not as yet been able to obtain one of them; they are extreemly watchfull and take reffuge in their burrows which are very deep; we have seen them no where except near these falls.
Saturday, July 6th, 1805 Last night, we had several hail and rain showers, accompanied by thunder and lightning. Around dawn, a heavy storm came in from the southwest, bringing hail, rain, and a continuous roar of thunder along with some lightning. The hail was about the size of musket balls and completely covered the ground. We collected some of it, which stayed good throughout the day and helped cool our water. These showers and gusts kept my boat wet despite my efforts. It isn't ready for the grease and coal yet. After the hail and rain ended this morning, we sent out four hunters and two canoes to the head of the rapids, as we had decided last night. The red and yellow currants are now ripe and plentiful, though they are still quite tart. There is a remarkably small fox that lives in large groups and digs burrows in the prairies, similar to a small wolf, but we haven't managed to catch one yet; they are extremely watchful and take refuge in their very deep burrows. We've only seen them near these falls.
[Clark, July 6, 1805]
July 6th Satturday 1805 a heavy wind from the S W and Some rain about mid night last, at day light this morning a verry black Cloud from the S W, with a Contined rore of thunder & Some lightening and rained and hailed tremendiously for about 1/2 an hour, the hail was the Size of a musket ball and Covered the ground. this hail & rain was accompand. by a hard wind which lasted for a fiew minits. Cloudy all the forepart of the day, after Part Clear. dispatched 4 men in 2 Canoes to the falls, to kill Buffalow, for their Skins & Meat others employd about the boat, I cought Some Small fish this evening.
July 6th, Saturday, 1805. A strong wind came from the southwest and a bit of rain around midnight. At dawn this morning, a very dark cloud appeared from the southwest, accompanied by continuous rumbling thunder and some lightning. It rained and hailed heavily for about half an hour; the hail was the size of a musket ball and covered the ground. This storm was accompanied by a strong wind that lasted for a few minutes. It was cloudy for most of the morning, then partly clear later on. I sent four men in two canoes to the falls to hunt buffalo for their skins and meat, while others worked on the boat. I caught some small fish this evening.
[Lewis, July 7, 1805]
Sunday July 7th 1805. The weather warm and cloudy therefore unfavourable for many operations; I keep small fires under the boat; the blowing flies are innumerable about it; the moisture retained by the bark prevents it from drying as fast as it otherwise would. we dispatched two other hunters to kill Elk or buffaloe for their skins to cover our baggage. we have no tents; the men are therefore obliged to have recourse to the sails for shelter from the weather and we have not more skins than are sufficient to cover our baggage when stoed away in bulk on land. many of the men are engaged in dressing leather to cloath themselves. their leather cloathes soon become rotton as they are much exposed to the water and frequently wet. Capt. Clarks black man York is very unwell today and he gave him a doze of tartar emettic which operated very well and he was much better in the evening. this is a discription of medecine that I nevr have recourse to in my practice except in cases of the intermittent fever. this evening the hunters returned with the canoes and brought thre buffaloe skins only and two Antelope 4 deer and three wolf skins; they reported that the buffaloe had gone further down the river. the two hunters whom we sent out from hence returned also without having killed anything except one Elk. I set one of the party at work to make me some sacks of the wolf skins, to transport my Instruments when occasion requirs their being carried any distance by land.—we had a light shower of rain about 4 P.M. attended with some thunder and lightning. one beaver caught this morning. the musquetoes are excessively troublesome to us. I have prepared my composition which I should have put on this evening but the rain prevented me.
Sunday, July 7th, 1805. The weather is warm and cloudy, making it unfavorable for many tasks. I keep small fires going under the boat; the flies buzzing around are countless. The moisture trapped by the bark is preventing it from drying as quickly as it normally would. We sent out two more hunters to catch elk or buffalo for their hides to cover our gear. We don’t have any tents, so the men have to use the sails for shelter from the weather, and we don’t have enough hides to cover our baggage when stored in bulk on land. Many of the men are busy making leather clothing for themselves. Their leather garments quickly become rotten because they are often exposed to water and frequently get wet. Captain Clark's servant, York, is feeling very unwell today, so I gave him a dose of tartar emetic which worked well, and he felt much better in the evening. This is a type of medicine I usually only use in cases of intermittent fever. This evening, the hunters returned with the canoes and brought only three buffalo hides and two antelope, four deer, and three wolf skins; they reported that the buffalo had moved further down the river. The two hunters we sent out from here also came back empty-handed, having only killed one elk. I assigned one of the group to make me some sacks out of the wolf skins to transport my instruments whenever they need to be carried any distance by land. We had a light rain shower around 4 PM, accompanied by some thunder and lightning. One beaver was caught this morning. The mosquitoes are extremely bothersome for us. I prepared my mixture that I planned to apply this evening, but the rain stopped me.
[Clark, July 7, 1805]
July 7th Sunday 1805 A Warm day wind from the S. W Cloudy as usial, the four men hunters did not return last night. dispatched 2 men to kill Elk for the use of their Skin for the boat. my man York Sick, I give him a dosh of Tarter. Some rain in the after part of the day in the evining the hunters returned with three buffalow Skins two goat Skins, four Deer Skins, two deer, & 3 wolve Skins, to be used in Covering the boat Canoes & to make mockersons, one Elk also killed to day
July 7th, Sunday, 1805 It was a warm day with a southwest wind. It was cloudy as usual, and the four hunters didn't come back last night. I sent two men to hunt elk for their skins to use on the boat. My man York is sick, so I gave him a dose of tartar. There was some rain in the afternoon. In the evening, the hunters returned with three buffalo skins, two goat skins, four deer skins, two deer, and three wolf skins, all to cover the boat canoes and to make moccasins. They also killed one elk today.
[Lewis, July 8, 1805]
Monday July 8th 1805. Capt. Clark Determined to make a second effort to replace the notes which he had made with rispect to the river and falls accordingly he set out after an early breakfast and took with him the greater part of the men with a view also to kill buffaloe should there be any in that quarter. after geting some distance in the plains he divided the party and sent them in different directions and himself and two others struck the Missouri at the entrance of medicine river and continued down it to the great Cataract, from whence he returned through the plains to camp where he arrived late in the evening. the hunters also returned having killed 3 buffaloe 2 Antelopes and a deer. he informed me that the immence herds of buffaloe which we had seen for some time past in this neighbourhood have almost entirely disappeared and he beleives are gone down the river.
Monday, July 8th, 1805. Capt. Clark was determined to make a second attempt to replace the notes he had taken about the river and falls. After an early breakfast, he set out, bringing most of the men along to hunt buffalo if there were any in the area. After traveling some distance across the plains, he divided the party and sent them in different directions. He and two others went to the Missouri River at the entrance of Medicine River and continued downstream to the Great Cataract. From there, he returned across the plains to camp, arriving late in the evening. The hunters also returned, having killed three buffalo, two antelope, and a deer. He informed me that the massive herds of buffalo we had seen around here for some time have mostly disappeared, and he believes they have moved down the river.
The day being warm and fair about 12 OCk. the boat was sufficiently dry to receive a coat of the composition which I accordingly applyed. this adds very much to her appearance whether it will be effectual or not. it gives her hull the appearance of being formed of one solid piece. after the first coat had cooled I gave her a second which I think has made it sufficiently thick. The mountains which ly before us from the South, to the N. W. still continue covered with snow. one hunter also passed the river to hunt this morning in the evening he returned having killed a Buck and a male Antelope. The party who were down with Capt. Clark also killed a small fox which they brought with them. it was a female appeared to give suck, otherwise it is so much like the comm small fox of this country commonly called the kit fox that I should have taken it for a young one of that species; however on closer examination it did apear to differ somewhat; it's colour was of a lighter brown, it's years proportionably larger, and the tale not so large or the hair not so long which formed it. they are very delicately formed, exceedingly fleet, and not as large as the common domestic cat. their tallons appear longer than any species of fox I ever saw and seem therefore prepared more amply by nature for the purpose of burrowing. there is sufficient difference for discrimination between it and the kit fox, and to satisfy me perfectly that it is a distinct species. the men also brought me a living ground squirrel which is something larger than those of the U States or those of that kind which are also common here. this is a much hadsomer anamal. like the other it's principal colour is a redish brown but is marked longitudinally with a much greater number of black or dark bron stripes; the spaces between which is marked by ranges of pure white circular spots, about the size of a brister blue shot. these colours imbrace the head neck back and sides; the tail is flat, or the long hair projecting horizontally from two sides of it only gives it that appearance. the belly and breast are of much lighter brown or nearly white. this is an inhabitant of the open plain altogether, wher it burrows and resides; nor is it like the other found among clifts of rocks or in the woodlands. their burrows sometimes like those of the mole run horizontally near the surface of the ground for a considerable distance, but those in which they reside or take refuge strike much deeper in the earth.—Slight rain this afternoon. musquetoes troublesome as usual.
The day was warm and nice around 12 o'clock. The boat was dry enough to put on a coat of the mixture, which I applied. This really improves her appearance, whether it will be effective or not. It makes her hull look like one solid piece. After the first coat cooled, I applied a second, which I think is thick enough. The mountains in front of us, from the South to the Northwest, are still covered in snow. A hunter crossed the river this morning to hunt, and in the evening, he returned with a buck and a male antelope. The group with Captain Clark also caught a small fox that they brought back. It was a female that seemed to be nursing; otherwise, it looked so much like the common small fox in this area, usually called the kit fox, that I would have thought it was a young one of that type. However, upon closer examination, it did seem to differ somewhat. Its color was a lighter brown, its ears were relatively larger, and its tail was smaller with less long hair. They are very delicately built, extremely fast, and not as large as a typical domestic cat. Their claws seem longer than any species of fox I've ever seen, which makes them more naturally suited for digging. There is enough difference to distinguish it from the kit fox, and I'm completely convinced it's a separate species. The men also brought me a live ground squirrel, which is slightly larger than those in the U.S. or the kind usually found here. This one is much prettier. Like the others, its main color is reddish-brown, but it's marked with many more black or dark brown stripes running lengthwise; the spaces in between have pure white circular spots about the size of a small blue marble. These colors cover its head, neck, back, and sides; the tail is flat, or rather the long hair sticking out horizontally from both sides gives that appearance. The belly and chest are a much lighter brown or nearly white. This animal lives entirely in the open plains where it digs burrows and stays; it isn’t found among cliffs of rocks or in the woodlands. Their burrows, sometimes like a mole's, run horizontally near the surface of the ground for some distance, but those where they live or seek refuge go much deeper into the earth. There was a slight rain this afternoon, and mosquitoes were as annoying as usual.
[Clark, July 8, 1805]
July 8th Monday 1805 A worm morning flying Clouds I deturmin take the width of the river at the falls & the Medison river and to take the greater part of the men which Can be Speared to Kill Buffalow for their Skins as well as meat, devided the party & Sent them in different directions to hunt & proceeded my Self to the mouth of Medison river measured it and found it to be 137 yards wide, in the narrowest part of the Missouri imediately above Medison river the Missouri is 300 yards wide, below and a little above the falls 1440 yards wide with the direction of the upper great fall 580 yards wide, at the great Spring 270 yards wide, at the handsom falls of 47 ft. 8 I. the river is 473 yards wide, at the lower great falls the river is confined within 280 yards, below the falls the water occupies 93 yards only—after takeing the wedth of the river at those Sundery placies I returned thro the plains in a direct line to Camp. Some rain this evening after a verry hot day.—the mountains which are in view to the South & N W. are Covered with Snow. those nearer us and forma 3/4 Circle around us is not Covered with Snow at this time. The hunters killed 3 buffalow, two antelopes, & a Deer to day—the emence herds of buffalow which was near us a fiew days ago, has proceeded on down the river, we Can See but a fiew Bulls in the plains
July 8th, Monday 1805 A warm morning, flying clouds. I determined to measure the width of the river at the falls and the Madison River, and to take most of the men who can spear buffalo for their skins and meat. I divided the party and sent them in different directions to hunt, then proceeded myself to the mouth of the Madison River. I measured it and found it to be 137 yards wide. In the narrowest part of the Missouri, just above the Madison River, it’s 300 yards wide. Below and slightly above the falls, it’s 1,440 yards wide, with the upper great fall being 580 yards wide. At the great spring, it’s 270 yards wide, and at the beautiful falls of 47 ft. 8 in., the river is 473 yards wide. At the lower great falls, the river is restricted to 280 yards, and below the falls, the water occupies only 93 yards. After taking the width of the river at these various points, I returned through the plains in a direct line to camp. There was some rain this evening after a very hot day. The mountains in view to the south and northwest are covered with snow, while those closer to us, which form a three-quarter circle around us, are not covered with snow at this time. The hunters killed 3 buffalo, two antelopes, and a deer today. The immense herds of buffalo that were near us a few days ago have moved down the river; we can see only a few bulls in the plains.
[Lewis, July 9, 1805]
Tuesday July 9th 1805. The morning was fair and pleant. the Islands seem crouded with blackbirds; the young brude is now completely feathered and flying in common with the others. we corked the canoes and put them in the water and also launched the boat, she lay like a perfect cork on the water. five men would carry her with the greatest ease. I now directed seats to be fixed in her and oars to be fitted. the men loaded the canoes in readiness to depart. just at this moment a violent wind commenced and blew so hard that we were obliged to unload the canoes again; a part of the baggage in several of them got wet before it could be taken out. the wind continued violent untill late in the evening, by which time we discovered that a greater part of the composition had seperated from the skins and left the seams of the boat exposed to the water and she leaked in such manner that she would not answer. I need not add that this circumstance mortifyed me not a little; and to prevent her leaking without pich was impossible with us, and to obtain this article was equally impossible, therefore the evil was irraparable I now found that the section formed of the buffaloe hides on which some hair had been left, answered much the best purpose; this leaked but little and the parts which were well covered with hair about 1/8th of an inch in length retained the composition perfectly and remained sound and dry. from these circumstances I am preswaided, that had I formed her with buffaloe skins singed not quite as close as I had done those I employed, that she would have answered even with this composition. but to make any further experiments in our present situation seemed to me madness; the buffaloe had principally dserted us, and the season was now advancing fast. I therefore relinquished all further hope of my favorite boat and ordered her to be sunk in the water, that the skins might become soft in order the better to take her in peices tomorrow and deposite the iron fraim at this place as it could probably be of no further service to us. had I only singed my Elk skins in stead of shaving them I beleive the composition would have remained and the boat have answered; at least untill we could have reached the pine country which must be in advance of us from the pine which is brought down by the water and which is probably at no great distance where we might have supplyed ourselves with the necessary pich or gum. but it was now too late to introduce a remidy and I bid a dieu to my boat, and her expected services.—The next difficulty which presented itself was how we should convey the stores and baggage which we had purposed carrying in the boat. both Capt. Clark and myself recollected having heard the hunters mention that the bottoms of the river some few miles above us were much better timbered than below and that some of the trees were large. the idea therefore suggested itself of building two other canoes sufficiently large to carry the surplus baggage. on enquiry of the hunters it seemed to be the general opinion that trees sufficiently a large for this purpose might be obtained in a bottom on the opposite side about 8 miles distant by land and reather more than double that distance by water; accordingly Capt. Clark determined to set out early in the morning with ten of the best workmen and proceede by land to that place while the others would in the mean time be employed by myself in taking the Boat in peices and depositing her, together with the articles which we had previously determined to deposit at this place, and also in trasporting all the baggage up the river to that point in the six small canoes. this plan being settled between us orders were accordingly given to the party, and the ten men who were to accompany Capt. Clark had ground and prepared their axes and adds this evening in order to prepare for an early departure in the morning. we have on this as well as on many former occasions found a small grindstone which I brought with me from Harper's ferry extreemly convenient to us. if we find trees at the place mentioned sufficiently large for our purposes it will be extreemly fortunate; for we have not seen one for many miles below the entrance of musselshell River to this place, which would have answered.-
Tuesday, July 9th, 1805. The morning was fair and pleasant. The islands were crowded with blackbirds; the young brood was now fully feathered and flying alongside the others. We corked the canoes and put them in the water, and we also launched the boat, which floated perfectly on the water. Five men could easily carry it. I directed that seats be installed and oars fitted. The men loaded the canoes, getting ready to depart. Just then, a strong wind started blowing, causing us to unload the canoes again; some of the baggage in several of them got wet before it could be removed. The wind kept blowing violently until late in the evening, by which time we discovered that much of the material had separated from the skins, leaving the seams of the boat exposed to the water, and it leaked so badly that it wasn’t usable. I need not say that this situation frustrated me quite a bit; it was impossible for us to stop the leaks without pitch, and obtaining pitch was equally impossible, so the damage was irreparable. I found that the section made from buffalo hides, which still had some hair on them, worked the best; it leaked only a little, and the areas well covered with hair—about 1/8th of an inch in length—retained the material perfectly and remained intact and dry. Given these circumstances, I believed that if I had used buffalo skins singed less closely than the ones I had used, it would have performed even with this material. But trying any more experiments in our current situation seemed foolish; the buffalo had largely deserted us, and the season was advancing quickly. I therefore gave up all hope for my favored boat and ordered it to be sunk in the water so the skins could soften, allowing us to take it apart more easily tomorrow and store the iron frame at this spot, as it likely wouldn’t be of any further use to us. If I had only singed my elk skins instead of shaving them, I believe the material would have held up and the boat would have worked, at least until we could reach the pine country ahead, where we could potentially gather the necessary pitch or gum from the pine brought down by the water, which was presumably not too distant. But it was now too late for a fix, so I said goodbye to my boat and its expected services. The next challenge was figuring out how to transport the supplies and baggage we had intended to carry in the boat. Both Captain Clark and I remembered hearing the hunters mention that the bottoms of the river a few miles upstream were much better timbered than below and that some of the trees were large. The idea came to us to build two other canoes large enough to carry the extra baggage. Upon asking the hunters, it seemed the general opinion was that sufficiently large trees for this purpose could be found in a bottom on the opposite side, about 8 miles away by land and over double that distance by water; accordingly, Captain Clark decided to set out early the next morning with ten of the best workers to head overland to that spot, while I would use the remaining time to take the boat apart and store it, along with the items we had already planned to deposit here, and also transport all the baggage up the river to that location in the six small canoes. Once this plan was agreed upon, orders were given to the party, and the ten men who were to accompany Captain Clark ground and prepared their axes and adzes that evening to get ready for an early departure in the morning. We found a small grindstone that I had brought from Harper's Ferry extremely useful, as it had been on many previous occasions. If we find trees at the mentioned location that are large enough for our needs, it would be extremely fortunate; we haven’t seen any for many miles below the entrance of Musselshell River to this spot that would have worked.
[Clark, July 9, 1805]
July 9th Tuesday 1805 a clear worm morning wind from the S W. Lanced the Leather boat, and found that it leaked a little; Corked Lanced & loaded the Canoes, hurried our truk wheels, & made a Carsh for a Skin & a fiew papers I intend to leave here on trial found the leather boat would not answer without the addition of Tar which we had none of, haveing Substituted Cole & Tallow in its place to Stop the Seams &c. which would not answer as it Seperated from the Skins when exposed to the water and left the Skins naked & Seams exposed to the water this falire of our favourate boat was a great disapointment to us, we haveing more baggage than our Canoes would Carry. Concluded to build Canoes for to Carry them; no timber near our Camp. I deturmined to proceed on up the river to a bottom in which our hunters reported was large Trees &c.
July 9th, Tuesday, 1805 - It was a clear, warm morning with a southwest wind. We checked the leather boat and found it had a small leak. We corked it, loaded the canoes, hurried our pack wheels, and made a cache for a skin and a few papers I plan to leave here for now. I discovered that the leather boat wouldn't work properly without tar, which we didn't have, as we had used coal and tallow to seal the seams, but that didn't hold up; it separated from the skins when exposed to water and left the skins and seams exposed. This failure of our favorite boat was a big disappointment since we had more gear than our canoes could carry. We decided to build canoes to transport our stuff; however, there was no timber near our camp. I decided to move up the river to a bottom where our hunters reported there were large trees and such.
[Lewis, July 10, 1805]
Wednesday July 10th 1805. Capt. Clark set out with his party early this morning and passed over to the opposite side. after which I dispatched Sergt. Ordway with 4 Canoes and 8 men to take up a load of baggage as far as Capt. Clark's camp and return for the remainder of our plunder. with six others I now set to work on my boat, which had been previously drawn out of the water before the men departed, and in two hours had her fraim in readiness to be deposited. had a cash dug and deposited the Fraim of the boat, some papers and a few other trivial articles of but little importance. the wind blew very hard the greater part of the day. I also had the truck wheels buried in the pit which had been made to hold the tar. having nothing further to do I amused myself in fishing and caught a few small fish; they were of the species of white chub mentioned below the falls, tho they are small and few in number. I had thought on my first arrival here that there were no fish in this part of the river. Capt. Clark proceeded up the river 8 miles by land (distance by water 231/4) and found 2 trees of Cottonwood and cut them down; one proved to be hollow and split in falling at the upper part and was somewhat windshaken at bottom; the other proved to be much windshaken. he surched the bottom for better but could not find any he therefore determined to make canoes of those which he had fallen; and to contract their length in such manner as to clear the craks and the worst of the windsken parts making up the deficiency by allowing them to be as wide as the trees would permit. they were much at a loss for wood to make axhandles. the Chokecherry is the best we can procure for this purpose and of that wood they made and broke thir 13 handles in the course of this part of a day. had the eyes of our axes been round they would have answered this country much better. the musquetoes were very troublesome to them as well as ourselves today. Sergt. Ordway proceeded up the river about 5 miles when the wind became so violent that he was obliged to ly by untill late in the evening when he again set out with the canoes and arrived within 3 miles of Capt. Clark's Camp where he halted for the night. about five miles above whitebear camp there are two Islands in the river covered with Cottonwood box alder and some sweet willow also the undergrowth like that of the islands at this place.-
Wednesday, July 10th, 1805. Capt. Clark left with his group early this morning and crossed to the other side. Afterward, I sent Sergt. Ordway along with 4 canoes and 8 men to carry a load of baggage to Capt. Clark's camp and then return for the rest of our supplies. With six others, I started working on my boat, which had been pulled out of the water before the men left, and in two hours, I had the frame ready to be set up. I had a hole dug and placed the frame of the boat there along with some papers and a few other unimportant items. The wind blew strongly for most of the day. I also had the truck wheels buried in the pit that was made for the tar. With nothing else to do, I passed the time fishing and caught a few small fish; they were a type of white chub mentioned below the falls, though they were small and scarce. I had thought when I first arrived here that there were no fish in this part of the river. Capt. Clark traveled up the river 8 miles overland (a water distance of 23¼ miles) and found 2 cottonwood trees, which he cut down; one was hollow, split at the top as it fell, and somewhat wind-damaged at the bottom; the other was very wind-damaged. He searched the area for better wood but couldn’t find any, so he decided to make canoes from the ones he had cut down, shortening them enough to avoid the cracks and the worst of the wind-damaged areas, while making them as wide as the trees would allow. They were struggling to find wood to make axe handles. The chokecherry is the best option we could get for this purpose, and from that wood, they made and broke 13 handles in a single day. If our axe eyes had been round, they would have worked better for this area. The mosquitoes were quite a nuisance for both them and us today. Sergt. Ordway traveled up the river for about 5 miles when the wind became so strong that he had to stay put until late in the evening when he set out again with the canoes and reached a point 3 miles from Capt. Clark's camp where he stopped for the night. About five miles above Whitebear camp, there are two islands in the river covered with cottonwood, box alder, and some sweet willow, along with underbrush similar to that of the islands at this location.
[Clark, July 10, 1805]
July 10th Wednesday 1805 a fair windey day wind hard the most of the day from the S. W.rained modderately all last night (by Showers) we dispatched Serjt. Ordway with 4 Canoes loaded & 8 men by water to assend as high as I Should have found timber for Canoes & formed a Camp;-. I Set out with Sergt. Pryor four Choppers two Involids & one man to hunt, Crossed to the Std. Side and proceeded on up the river 8 miles by land (distance by water 231/4 ms.) and found two Trees which I thought would make Canoes, had them fallen, one of them proved to be hollow & Split at one End & verry much win Shaken at the other, the other much win Shaken, we Serched the bottoms for better trees and made a trial of Several which proved to be more indifferent. I deturmined to make Canoes out of the two first trees we had fallen, to Contract thir length so as to clear the hollow & winshakes, & ad to the width as much as the tree would allow. The Musquitors emencely noumerous & troublesom, Killed two deer & a goat. The Canoes did not arrive as I expected, owing to the hard wind which blew a head in maney places. we ar much at a loss for wood to make ax hilthes,13 hath been made & broken in this piece of a day by the four Choppers, no other wood but Cotton Box elder Choke Cherry and red arrow wood. we Substitute the Cherry in place of Hickory for ax hilthes ram rods, &c. &c.
July 10th, Wednesday, 1805: It was a nice and windy day, with a strong wind blowing from the southwest. It rained moderately all last night in showers. We sent Sergeant Ordway with four canoes and eight men by water to go as high as I could find timber for canoes and set up a camp. I set out with Sergeant Pryor, four choppers, two invalids, and one man to hunt. We crossed to the standard side and continued up the river for eight miles on land (the distance by water was 23 ¼ miles). We found two trees that I thought could be used for canoes, so we had them felled. One of them turned out to be hollow and split at one end and quite shaken at the other, while the other was also very shaken. We searched the area for better trees and tried several, but they were not much better. I decided to make canoes from the first two trees we had felled, shortening their length to avoid the hollow and shakes, and widening them as much as the trees would allow. The mosquitoes were incredibly numerous and bothersome. We killed two deer and a goat. The canoes did not arrive as I had expected, due to the strong wind blowing against us in many places. We are struggling to find wood for making axe handles; 13 handles have been made and broken throughout this day by the four choppers. The only other wood available is cottonwood, box elder, choke cherry, and red arrow wood. We are substituting the cherry for hickory for axe handles, ramrods, etc.
[Lewis, July 11, 1805]
Thursday July 11th 1805. We had now nothing to do but wait for the canoes; as they had not returned I sent out some of the small party with me to hunt; in the evening they returned with a good quantity of the flesh of a fat buffaloe which they had killed. the canoes not arrived this evening. I saw several very large grey Eagles today they are a half as large again as the common bald Eagle of this country. I do not think the bald Eagle here qute so large as those of the U States; the grey Eagle is infinitely larger and is no doubt a distinct species. this evening a little before the sun set I heared two other discharges of this unaccounable artillery of the Rocky Mountains proceeding from the same quarter that I had before heard it. I now recollected the Minnetares making mention of the nois which they had frequently heard in the Rocky Mountains like thunder; and which they said the mountains made; but I paid no attention to the information supposing it either false or the fantom of a supersticious immagination. I have also been informed by the engages that the Panis and Ricaras give the same account of the Black mountains which lye West of them. this phenomenon the philosophy of the engages readily accounts for; they state it to be the bursting of the rich mines of silver which these mountains contain.
Thursday, July 11th, 1805. We had nothing to do but wait for the canoes; since they hadn’t returned, I took some of the small party with me to hunt. In the evening, they came back with a good amount of fat buffalo meat they had killed. The canoes didn’t arrive this evening. I saw several very large gray eagles today; they are about one and a half times the size of the common bald eagle in this area. I don’t think the bald eagle here is quite as large as those in the U.S.; the gray eagle is significantly larger and is likely a distinct species. Just before sunset this evening, I heard two more discharges of that strange artillery from the Rocky Mountains coming from the same direction I heard before. I now remembered the Minnetarees mentioning a noise they had frequently heard in the Rocky Mountains that sounded like thunder, which they said was made by the mountains. I didn’t pay much attention to this information, thinking it was either false or a product of superstitious imagination. I have also been informed by the engages that the Panis and Ricaras give the same account of the Black Mountains lying west of them. The philosophy of the engages explains this phenomenon readily; they attribute it to the bursting of the rich silver mines that these mountains contain.
This morning Capt. Clark dispatched Bratton to meet the canoes which were detained by the wind to get a couple of axes. he obtained the axes and returned in about two hours. this man has been unable to work for several days in consequence of a whitlow on one of his fingers; a complaint which has been very common among the men. one of the canoes arrived at Capt. Clarks camp about 10 A.M. this he had unloaded and set a few miles up the river for a buffaloe which had been killed, the party sent killed another in thir rout and brought in the flesh and skins of both they were in good order; his hunters had also killed two deer and an Antelope yesterday. the three other canoes did not arrive untill late in the evening in consequence of the wind and the fear of weting their loads which consisted of articles much more liable to be injured by moisture than those which composed the load of that which arrived in the morning. Capt. C. had the canoes unloaded and ordered them to float down in the course of the night to my camp, but the wind proved so high after night that they were obliged to put too about 8 miles above and remain untill morning. Capt. C. kept the party with him busily engaged at the canoes. his hunters killed and brought in three very fat deer this evening.
This morning, Capt. Clark sent Bratton to meet the canoes that were delayed by the wind to get a couple of axes. He got the axes and returned in about two hours. This man has not been able to work for several days due to a whitlow on one of his fingers, which has become quite common among the men. One of the canoes reached Capt. Clark's camp around 10 A.M. He unloaded it and sent it a few miles up the river for a buffalo that had been killed. The party sent along managed to kill another one on their way back and brought in the meat and skins of both; they were in good condition. His hunters also killed two deer and an antelope yesterday. The three other canoes didn't arrive until late in the evening due to the wind and the concern of wetting their loads, which were much more susceptible to damage from moisture than the load of the canoe that arrived in the morning. Capt. Clark had the canoes unloaded and instructed them to float down to my camp during the night, but the wind was so strong after dark that they had to turn back about 8 miles upstream and stay there until morning. Capt. Clark kept the crew busy with the canoes. His hunters killed and brought in three very fat deer this evening.
[Clark, July 11, 1805]
July 11th Thursday 1805 a fair windey morning wind S. W. I dispatch W Bratten (who cannot work he haveing a turner rising on his finger) to meat the Canoes & bring from them two axes, which is necessary for the work at the perogues or Canoes, and is indespenceable he returned in about two hours & informed that one Canoe was within three miles, about 1 oClock the Canoe which Bratten left arrived haveing killed a Buffalow on the river above our Camp, at which place the bend of the river below & that above is about 1 mile apart, I dispatched Serjt. Pryor with 3 men in the Canoe to get the meat they killed another buffalow near the one killed and brought the meat of both down. at Sunset the 3 remaining Canoes arrived unloaded & returned imeadeately with orders to flote down to Camp at the portage to night for the purpose of takeing up the remaining baggage. Musquitors verry troublesom, and in addition to their torments we have a Small Knat, which is as disagreeable, our hunter killed 3 Deer to day one of them verry fat. all the men with me engaged about the Canoes hunting &c. &.
July 11th, Thursday, 1805: It was a fair, windy morning with a southwest wind. I sent W. Bratten (who couldn't work because he had a turner’s cyst on his finger) to meet the canoes and bring back two axes, which are necessary for working on the pirogues or canoes, and are indispensable. He returned in about two hours and reported that one canoe was within three miles. Around 1 o’clock, the canoe that Bratten left back arrived, having killed a buffalo on the river above our camp, where the bend of the river below and above is about a mile apart. I sent Sergeant Pryor with three men in the canoe to retrieve the meat. They also killed another buffalo near the first one and brought the meat of both back. At sunset, the three remaining canoes arrived, unloaded, and immediately returned with orders to float down to camp at the portage tonight to collect the remaining baggage. The mosquitoes are very bothersome, and in addition to their irritation, we also have a small gnat that is quite unpleasant. Our hunter killed three deer today, one of which was very fat. All the men with me are busy with the canoes, hunting, etc.
[Lewis, July 12, 1805]
Friday July 12th 1805. The canoes not having arrived and the wind still high I dispatched Sergt. Gass with three men to join Capt. Clark and assist in completing the canoes retaining only a few who in addition to those in the canoes that I expect every moment, will be sufficient to man the six canoes and take up all the baggage we have here at one load. I feel excessively anxious to be moving on. the canoes were detained by the wind untill 2 P.M. when they set out and arrived at this place so late that I thought it best to detain them untill morning. Bratton came down today for a cople of axes which I sent by him; he returned immediately. Sergt. Gass and party joined Capt. Clark at 10 A.M. Capt. C. kept all the men with him busily engaged some in drying meat, others in hunting, and as many as could be employed about the canoes. Segt. Pryor got his sholder dislocated yesterday, it was replaced immediately and is likely to do him but little injury; it is painfull to him today. the hunters with Capt. C. killed three deer and two otter today. the otter are now plenty since the water has become sufficiently clear for them to take fish. the blue crested fisher, or as they are sometimes called the Kingfisher, is an inhabitant of this part of the country; this bird is very rare on the Missouri; I have not seen more than three or four of those birds during my voyage from the entrance of the Missouri to the mouth of Maria's river and those few were reather the inhabitants of streams of clerer water which discharged themselves into the Missouri than of that river, as they were seen about the entrances of such streams. Musquetoes extreemly troublesome to me today nor is a large black knat less troublesome, which dose not sting, but attacks the eye in swarms and compells us to brush them off or have our eyes filled with them. I made the men dry the ballance of the freshe meet which we had abot the camp amounting to about 200 lbs.
Friday, July 12th, 1805. The canoes still haven't arrived, and the wind is still strong. I sent Sergeant Gass with three men to join Captain Clark and help finish the canoes, keeping only a few people with me. With those on the canoes I expect any minute, it should be enough to operate all six canoes and carry all our baggage in one trip. I'm really anxious to get moving. The canoes were held up by the wind until 2 PM, when they finally left but arrived so late that I decided it was best to keep them here until morning. Bratton came down today for a couple of axes that I sent with him; he returned immediately. Sergeant Gass and his group joined Captain Clark at 10 AM. Captain Clark kept all the men busy—some were drying meat, others were hunting, and as many as could help with the canoes. Sergeant Pryor dislocated his shoulder yesterday; it was fixed right away and shouldn't cause him much trouble, though it's painful for him today. The hunters with Captain Clark got three deer and two otters today. The otters have become common now that the water has cleared up enough for them to catch fish. The blue crested fisher, or Kingfisher as they’re sometimes called, lives in this part of the country; this bird is very rare on the Missouri River. I've only seen a few of them during my trip from the entrance of the Missouri to the mouth of Maria's River, and those were mostly near clear water streams flowing into the Missouri. Mosquitoes were extremely bothersome to me today, and a large black gnat was equally annoying. It doesn't sting but attacks the eyes in swarms, forcing us to wave them away or risk having our eyes filled with them. I had the men dry the remaining fresh meat we had at the camp, which amounted to about 200 lbs.
[Clark, July 12, 1805]
July 12th Friday 1805 a fair windey morning wind from the S. W. all hands at work at Day light Some at the Canoes, & others drying meat for our voyage- Dispatched W. Brattin to the lower Camp for two axes which are necessary to carry on our work at this place &. Serjt. Pryors Sholder was put out of place yesterday Carrying Meat and is painfull to day. wind hard all day dispatched 2 hunters, they returnd in the evening with three Deer & 2 orters. four men arrived from the lower Camp by land to assist at this place in building the Canoes &c. musquitors & knats verry troublesom all day. a fiew wild pigions about our Camp.
July 12th, Friday, 1805: It was a nice, breezy morning with the wind coming from the southwest. Everyone started working at daybreak, some on the canoes and others drying meat for our journey. I sent W. Brattin to the lower camp to get two axes that we need to continue our work here. Sergeant Pryor dislocated his shoulder yesterday while carrying meat and it's painful today. The wind was strong all day. I sent out two hunters, and they returned in the evening with three deer and two otters. Four men arrived from the lower camp on foot to help with building the canoes, etc. The mosquitoes and gnats were very bothersome all day, and there were a few wild pigeons around our camp.
[Lewis, July 13, 1805]
Saturday July 13th 1805. This morning being calm and Clear I had the remainder of our baggage embarked in the six small canoes and maned them with two men each. I now bid a cheerfull adue to my camp and passed over to the opposite shore. Baptiest La Page one of the men whom I had reserved to man the canoes being sick I sent Charbono in his stead by water and the sick man and Indian woman accompanyed me by land. from the head of the white bear Islands I passed in a S. W. direction and struck the Missouri at 3 miles and continued up it to Capt. Clark's camp where I arrived about 9 A.M. and found them busily engaged with their canoes Meat &c. in my way I passed a very extraordinary Indian lodge, or at least the fraim of one; it was formed of sixteen large cottonwood poles each about fifty feet long and at their larger end which rested on the ground as thick as a man's body; these were arranged in a circular manner at bottom and equally distributed except the omission of one on the East side which I suppose was the entrance to the lodge; the upper part of the poles are united in a common point above and secured with large wyths of willow brush. in the center of this fabric there was the remains of a large fire; and about the place the marks of about 80 leather lodges. I know not what was the intention or design of such a lodge but certain I am that it was not designed for a dwelling of anyone family. it was 216 feet in circumpherence at the base. it was most probably designed for some great feast, or a council house on some great national concern. I never saw a similar one nor do the nations lower down the Missouri construct such. The canoes and party with Sergt. Ordway poceeded up the river about 5 miles when the wind became so violent that two of the canoes shiped a considerable quanty of water and they were compelled to put too take out the baggage to dry and clense the canoes of the water. about 5 P.M. the wind abated and they came on about 8 miles further and encamped. I saw a number of turtledoves and some pigeons today. of the latter I shot one; they are the same common to the United States, or the wild pigeon as they are called. nothing remarkable in the appearance of the country; the timber entirely confined to the river and the country back on either side as far as the eye can reach entirely destitute of trees or brush. the timber is larger and more abundant in the bottom in which we now are than I have seen it on the Missouri for many hundred miles. the current of the river is still extreemly gentle. The hunters killed three buffaloe today which were in good order. the flesh was brought in dryed the skins wer also streached for covering our baggage. we eat an emensity of meat; it requires 4 deer, an Elk and a deer, or one buffaloe, to supply us plentifully 24 hours. meat now forms our food prinsipally as we reserve our flour parched meal and corn as much as possible for the rocky mountains which we are shortly to enter, and where from the indhan account game is not very abundant. I preserved specemines of several small plants to day which I have never before seen. The Musquetoes and knats are more troublesome here if possible than they were at the White bear Islands. I sent a man to the canoes for my musquetoe bier which I had neglected to bring with me, as it is impossible to sleep a moment without being defended against the attacks of these most tormenting of all insects; the man returned with it a little after dark.
Saturday, July 13th, 1805. This morning was calm and clear, so I loaded the rest of our baggage into the six small canoes, manned by two men each. I said a cheerful goodbye to my camp and crossed to the opposite shore. Baptiste La Page, one of the men I had reserved for the canoes, was sick, so I sent Charbono in his place by water, while the sick man and an Indian woman accompanied me by land. From the head of the White Bear Islands, I traveled southwest and hit the Missouri River after three miles, then continued upstream to Capt. Clark's camp, where I arrived around 9 A.M. and found them busy with their canoes and meat. On the way, I came across a very unusual Indian lodge, or at least the frame of one; it was made of sixteen large cottonwood poles, each about fifty feet long and as thick as a man's body at the wider end resting on the ground. These were arranged in a circular shape at the base and evenly spaced, except for one missing on the east side, which I assume was the entrance. The tops of the poles were tied together at a common point and secured with large bundles of willow brush. In the center, there were the remains of a large fire, and around the area, I saw traces of about eighty leather lodges. I can't say what the purpose or design of such a lodge was, but I'm certain it wasn't meant as a home for one family. It measured 216 feet in circumference at the base and was likely designed for a big feast or a council house for a significant national issue. I've never seen a similar structure, nor do the tribes further down the Missouri build such. The canoes and the party with Sgt. Ordway went up the river about five miles when the wind picked up so strongly that two of the canoes took on a considerable amount of water. They had to stop to unload the baggage to dry it out and clean out the water from the canoes. Around 5 P.M., the wind calmed down, and they continued on about eight more miles and set up camp. I spotted several turtledoves and some pigeons today; I shot one of the latter, which is the same as the common wild pigeon found in the United States. There was nothing remarkable about the landscape; the timber was entirely along the river, and the land on either side was completely devoid of trees or brush for as far as the eye could see. The timber here in the bottomlands is larger and more plentiful than I have seen on the Missouri for many hundreds of miles. The river's current is still extremely gentle. The hunters killed three buffalo today, which were in good condition. We brought in the dried meat and stretched the skins to cover our baggage. We ate an enormous amount of meat; it takes four deer, one elk and a deer, or one buffalo to feed us generously for 24 hours. Meat now makes up the bulk of our diet as we try to save our flour, roasted meal, and corn for the Rocky Mountains, which we will be entering soon, where, according to Indian accounts, game is not very plentiful. I collected specimens of several small plants today that I have never seen before. The mosquitoes and gnats here are even more bothersome than they were at the White Bear Islands. I sent a man to the canoes for my mosquito net, which I had forgotten to bring, as it's impossible to sleep at all without protection from these most irritating insects; the man returned with it shortly after dark.
[Clark, July 13, 1805]
July 13th Saturday 1805. a fair Calm Morning, verry Cool before day—we were visited by a Buffalow Bull who came within a fiew Steps of one of the Canoes the men were at work. Capt. Lewis one man &c. arrived over Land at 9 oClock, the wind rose and blew hard from the S. E. the greater part of the day both Canoes finished all to Corking & fixing ores &c. &c. The Hunters killed 3 Buffalow the most of all the meat I had dried for to make Pemitigon. The Musquetors & Knats verry troublesom all day & night
July 13th, Saturday, 1805. It was a clear, calm morning, quite cool before dawn. A buffalo bull came within a few steps of one of the canoes where the men were working. Captain Lewis and a man arrived over land at 9 o'clock. The wind picked up and blew hard from the southeast for most of the day. Both canoes were completely finished, with all the corking and repairs done. The hunters killed three buffalo, which was more than all the meat I had dried to make pemmican. The mosquitoes and gnats were very bothersome all day and night.
[Lewis, July 14, 1805]
Sunday July 14th 1805. This morning was calm fair and warm; the Musquetoes of course troublesome. all hands that could work were employed about the canoes. which we completed and launched this evening. the one was 25 feet and the other 33 feet in length and about 3 feet wide. we have now the seats and oars to make and fit &c. I walked out today and ascended the bluffs which are high rockey and steep; I continued my rout about 31/2 when I gained a conspicuous eminence about 2 mes. distant from the river a little below the entrance of Fort Mountain Creek. from this place I had a commanding view of the country and took the bearings of the following places. (viz)
Sunday, July 14, 1805. This morning was calm, clear, and warm; the mosquitoes, of course, were bothersome. Everyone who could work was busy with the canoes. We finished and launched them this evening. One was 25 feet long and the other 33 feet, both about 3 feet wide. Now we need to make and fit the seats and oars, etc. I went for a walk today and climbed the bluffs, which are high, rocky, and steep; I continued my path for about 3.5 miles until I reached a prominent high point about 2 miles from the river, just below the entrance of Fort Mountain Creek. From there, I had a great view of the area and took the bearings of the following places. (viz)
To the point at which the Missouri first enters the Rocky Mountains S. 28° W. 25 To the termineation of the 1st Chain of Rocky Mountains; northwardly, being that through which the Missouri first passes N. 73° W 80 To the extremity or tirmineation of 2cd Chain of the Rocky Mountains N. 65 W. 150 To the most distant point of a third and continued chain of the same mts N. 50°W. 200 The direction of the 2cd Do. from S 45 E. to N. 45deg. W.
To the point where the Missouri first enters the Rocky Mountains S. 28° W. 25 to the end of the 1st Chain of Rocky Mountains; going north, which is where the Missouri first passes N. 73° W. 80 to the end of the 2nd Chain of the Rocky Mountains N. 65 W. 150 to the farthest point of a third and continuing chain of the same mountains N. 50° W. 200. The direction of the 2nd one goes from S 45 E. to N. 45° W.
To Fort Mountain S. 75° W. 8
To Fort Mountain S. 75° W. 8
The country in most parts very level and in others swelling with gentle rises and decents, or in other wirds what I have heretofore designated a wavy country destitute of timber except along the water-courses. On my return to camp found Sergt. Ordway had arrived with all the canoes about noon and had unloaded them every preperation except the entire completion of the oars poles &c is made for our departure tomorrow. the grass and weeds in this bottom are about 2 feet high; which is a much greater hight than we have seen them elsewhere this season. here I found the sand rush and nittles in small quantities. the grass in the plains is not more than 3 inches high. grasshoppers innumerable in the plains and the small birds before noticed together with the brown Curlooe still continue nomerous in every part of the plains.
The country is mostly flat, with some gentle hills and dips, which I’ve previously called a wavy landscape, lacking trees except near the waterways. When I returned to camp, I found Sergeant Ordway had arrived with all the canoes around noon and had unloaded them. Everything is prepared for our departure tomorrow, except for the final touches on the oars, poles, etc. The grass and weeds in this area are about 2 feet high, which is much taller than we’ve seen them elsewhere this season. Here, I found a small amount of sand rush and nettles. The grass in the plains is no more than 3 inches tall. There are countless grasshoppers in the plains, and the small birds I mentioned earlier, along with the brown curlew, continue to be numerous throughout the plains.
had a slight shower at 4 P.M. this evening.
had a light rain shower at 4 PM this evening.
[Clark, July 14, 1805]
July 14th Sunday 1805 a fine morning Calm and worm musquetors & Knats verry troublesom. The Canoes arrive at 12 oClock & unloade to Dry &c. finished & Lanced the 2 Canoes, Some rain this afternoon. all prepareing to Set out on tomorrow.
July 14th, Sunday, 1805 - a nice morning. Calm and warm, but mosquitoes and gnats are really bothersome. The canoes arrived at noon and were unloaded to dry, etc. We finished and fixed the two canoes. There was some rain this afternoon. Everyone is getting ready to set out tomorrow.
[Lewis, July 15, 1805]
Monday July 15th 1805. We arrose very early this morning, assigned the canoes their loads and had it put on board. we now found our vessels eight in number all heavily laden, notwithstanding our several deposits; tho it is true we have now a considerable stock of dryed meat and grease. we find it extreemly difficult to keep the baggage of many of our men within reasonable bounds; they will be adding bulky articles of but little use or value to them. At 10 A.M. we once more saw ourselves fairly under way much to my joy and I beleive that of every individual who compose the party. I walked on shore and killed 2 Elk near one of which the party halted and dined. we took the skins marrow bones and a part of the flesh of these Elk. in order to lighten the burthen of the canoes I continued my walk all the evening and took our only invalledes Potts an LaPage with me. we passed the river near where we dined and just above the entrance of a beautifull river 80 yards wide which falls in on the Lard. side which in honour of Mr. Robert Smith the Secretary of the Navy we called Smith's River. this stream meanders through a most lovely valley to the S. E. for about 25 miles when it enters the Rocky mountains and is concealed from our view. many herds of buffaloe were feeding in this valley. we again crossed the river to the Stard. side and passed through a plain and struck the river at a Northwardly bend where there was timber here we waited untill the canoes arrived by which time it was so late that we concluded to encamp for the night. here Drewyer wouded a deer which ran into the river my dog pursued caught it drowned it and brought it to shore at our camp. we have now passed Fort Mountain on our right it appears to be about ten miles distant. this mountain has a singular appearance it is situated in a level plain, it's sides stand nearly at right angles with each other and are each about a mile in extent. these are formed of a yellow clay only without the mixture of rock or stone of any size and rise perpendicularly to the hight of 300 feet. the top appears to be a level plain and from the eminence on which I was yesterday I could see that it was covered with a similar cost of grass with the plain on which it stands. the surface appears also to possess a tolerable fertile mole of 2 feet thick. and is to all appearance inaccessible. from it's figure we gave it the name of fort mountain. those mounds before mentioned near the falls have much the same appearance but are none of them as large as this one. the prickly pear is now in full blume and forms one of the beauties as well as the greatest pests of the plains. the sunflower is also in blume and is abundant. this plant is common to every part of the Missouri from it's entrance to this place. the lambsquarter, wild coucumber, sand rush and narrow dock are also common here. Drewyer killed another deer and an Otter today. we find it inconvenient to take all the short meanders of the river which has now become cooked and much narrower than below, we therefore take it's general course and lay down the small bends by the eye on our daily traverse or chart. the river is from too to 150 yds. wide. more timber on the river than below the falls for a great distance. on the banks of the river there are many large banks of sand much elivated above the plains on which they ly and appear as if they had been collected in the course of time from the river by the almost incessant S. W. winds; they always appear on the sides of the river opposite to those winds.
Monday, July 15th, 1805. We woke up very early this morning, assigned the canoes their loads, and loaded them up. We now found ourselves with eight heavily loaded vessels, despite our various deposits; however, we do have a decent stock of dried meat and grease. It's extremely difficult to keep some of the men's baggage within reasonable limits; they keep adding bulky items of little use or value. At 10 A.M., we were finally on our way, much to my joy and I believe to the joy of everyone in the group. I walked on shore and shot two elk near where the party stopped to have lunch. We took the skins, marrow bones, and part of the meat from these elk to lighten the load of the canoes. I continued my walk throughout the evening, taking our only invalids, Potts and LaPage, with me. We crossed the river near where we had lunch and just above the entrance of a beautiful river, 80 yards wide, which flows in on the left side. In honor of Mr. Robert Smith, the Secretary of the Navy, we named it Smith's River. This stream winds through a lovely valley to the southeast for about 25 miles before entering the Rocky Mountains and disappearing from view. Many herds of buffalo were grazing in this valley. We crossed back to the right side of the river and passed through a plain, reaching the river at a northward bend where there was timber. We waited here until the canoes arrived, by which time it was so late that we decided to set up camp for the night. Here, Drewyer wounded a deer that ran into the river; my dog chased it, caught it, drowned it, and brought it to shore at our camp. We have now passed Fort Mountain on our right, which appears to be about ten miles away. This mountain has a unique appearance; it's in a flat plain, its sides are nearly perpendicular to each other, and each side is about a mile long. They are made of yellow clay only, without significant rock or stone, rising straight up to a height of 300 feet. The top looks like a flat plain, and from the height I was at yesterday, I could see that it was covered with a similar layer of grass as the plain it stands on. The surface seems to be made of reasonably fertile soil about 2 feet thick and appears to be nearly inaccessible. Due to its shape, we named it Fort Mountain. The mounds mentioned earlier near the falls have a similar look, but none are as large as this one. The prickly pear is now in full bloom, representing both one of the beauties and the biggest nuisances of the plains. The sunflower is also blooming and is plentiful. This plant is found everywhere along the Missouri from its entrance to this location. Lambsquarter, wild cucumber, sand rush, and narrow dock are also common here. Drewyer killed another deer and an otter today. We find it inconvenient to follow all the short bends of the river, which has now become shallower and much narrower than upstream, so we take its general course and lay out the small bends by eye on our daily traverse or chart. The river ranges from 100 to 150 yards wide, with more timber along it than below the falls for a considerable distance. On the riverbanks, there are many high sandbanks, elevated above the plains they sit on, which seem to have been formed over time from the river by almost constant southwest winds; they always appear on the opposite side of the river from those winds.
The couses and distances from the White bear islands to the camp at which we made the canoes as taken by Sergt. Ordway.-
The courses and distances from the White Bear Islands to the camp where we made the canoes, as recorded by Sergt. Ordway.
[Clark, July 15, 1805]
July 15th Monday 1805 rained all the last night I was wet all night this morning wind hard from the S. W. we Set out at 10 oClock and proceeded on verry well passed a river on the Lard Side about 80 yards wide which we Call after the Secy of the Navey Smiths River the river verry Crooked bottoms extensive rich and Passes thro a butifull vally between 2 mts. Conts. high grass, our Canoes being So Small Several of the men Capt. Lewis & my Self Compelled to walked on Shore & Cross the bends to keep up with the Canoes—a round mountain on our right abt. 10 miles appears inaxcessable we Call fort mountain. The Prickley pear in bloom but fiew other flowers. Sun flowr are common, also lambs quarter & Nettles. Capt Lew Killed 2 Elk & the hunters killed 2 Deer & a Ortter, we Camped on the Stard Side at which place I Saw many beaver, the timber on the edge of the river more Common than below the falls—as I am compelled to walk on Shore find it verry dificuelt to take the Courses of the river, as it is verry Crooked more So than below
July 15th, Monday, 1805—It rained all night, and I was wet all night. This morning, the wind was strong from the southwest. We set out at 10 o'clock and made good progress. We passed a river on the left side about 80 yards wide, which we named after the Secretary of the Navy, Smith's River. The river is very winding, with extensive rich bottoms, and it flows through a beautiful valley between two mountains. The grass is tall. Since our canoes are so small, several of the men, Captain Lewis, and I had to walk on shore and cross the bends to keep pace with the canoes. There’s a round mountain on our right about 10 miles away that seems inaccessible; we call it Fort Mountain. The prickly pear is blooming, but there are few other flowers. Sunflowers, lambsquarters, and nettles are common. Captain Lewis killed two elk, and the hunters got two deer and an otter. We camped on the starboard side, where I saw many beavers; the timber on the riverbank was more abundant than below the falls. Since I have to walk on shore, I find it very difficult to track the course of the river since it is much more winding than below.
[Lewis, July 16, 1805]
Tuesday July 16th 1805. We had a heavy dew last night sen one man back this morning for an ax that he had carelessly left last evening some miles below, and set out at an early hour. early this morning we passed about 40 little booths formed of willow bushes to shelter them from the sun; they appeared to have been deserted about 10 days; we supposed that they were snake Indians. they appeared to have a number of horses with them-. this appearance gives me much hope of meeting with these people shortly. Drewyer killed a buffaloe this morning near the river and we halted and breakfasted on it. here for the first time I ate of the small guts of the buffaloe cooked over a blazing fire in the Indian stile without any preperation of washing or other clensing and found them very good.- After breakfast I determined to leave Capt. C. and party, and go on to the point where the river enters the Rocky Mountains and make the necessary observations against their arrival; accordingly I set out with the two invalleds Potts and LaPage and Drewyer; I passed through a very handsome level plain on the Stard. side of the river, the country equally level and beautiful) on the opposite side; at the distance of 8 mes. passed a small stream on which I observed a considerable quantity of aspin. a little before 12 I halted on the river at a Stard. bend and well timbered bottom about 41/2 miles below the mountains and made the following observation.
Tuesday, July 16, 1805. We had a heavy dew last night, and one man went back this morning for an ax he had carelessly left a few miles below. We set out early. This morning, we passed about 40 little booths made of willow bushes to shelter from the sun; they seemed to have been deserted about 10 days ago, and we guessed they belonged to the Snake Indians. They seemed to have quite a few horses with them, which gives me a lot of hope that we’ll meet these people soon. Drewyer killed a buffalo this morning near the river, and we stopped to have breakfast with it. Here, for the first time, I tried the small intestines of the buffalo cooked over a blazing fire in the Indian style without any washing or cleaning and found them quite good. After breakfast, I decided to leave Capt. C. and his group, and continue on to the point where the river enters the Rocky Mountains to make the necessary observations before they arrived; so I set out with the two invalids, Potts and LaPage, and Drewyer. I passed through a very nice, flat plain on the starboard side of the river, with the landscape just as level and beautiful on the opposite side. About 8 miles in, I crossed a small stream where I noticed a good amount of aspen. Just before noon, I stopped on the river at a starboard bend and well-timbered bottom, about 4.5 miles below the mountains, and made the following observation.
after this observation we pursued our rout through a high roling plain to a rappid immediately at the foot of the mountain where the Missouri first enters them. the current of the missouri below these rappids is strong for several miles, tho just above there is scarcely any current, the river very narrow and deep abot 70 yds. wide only and seems to be closely hemned in by the mountains on both sides, the bottoms only a few yards in width. an Indian road enters the mountain at the same place with the river on the Stard side and continues along it's border under the steep clifts these mountains appear to be only about 800 feet above the river and are formed almost entirely of a hard black grannite. with a few dwarf pine and cedar scattered on them. at this place there is a large rock of 400 feet high wich stands immediately in the gap which the missouri makes on it's passage from the mountains; it is insulated from the neighbouring mountains by a handsome little plain which surrounds it base on 3 sides and the Missouri washes it's base on the other, leaving it on the Lard. as it decends. this rock I called the tower. it may be ascended with some difficulty nearly to it's summit, and from it there is a most pleasing view of the country we are now about to leave. from it I saw this evening immence herds of buffaloe in the plains below. near this place we killed a fat elk on which we both dined and suped. the Musquetoes are extreemly troublesome this evening and I had left my bier, of course suffered considerably, and promised in my wrath that I never will be guily of a similar peice of negligence while on this voyage.
After this observation, we continued our route through a high rolling plain to a rapid right at the foot of the mountain where the Missouri first enters them. The current of the Missouri below these rapids is strong for several miles, though just above there is hardly any current; the river is very narrow and deep, about 70 yards wide, and seems to be closely bordered by the mountains on both sides, with the bottoms only a few yards wide. An Indian trail enters the mountains at the same spot as the river on the starboard side and continues along its edge under the steep cliffs. These mountains appear to be only about 800 feet above the river and are made almost entirely of hard black granite, with a few dwarf pines and cedars scattered across them. At this location, there is a large rock that stands 400 feet high and sits directly in the gap created by the Missouri as it flows from the mountains; it is isolated from the neighboring mountains by a lovely little plain that surrounds its base on three sides, while the Missouri washes its base on the other, leaving it on the left as it descends. I named this rock the Tower. It can be climbed with some difficulty nearly to the summit, and from there, there is a beautiful view of the country we are about to leave. This evening, I saw immense herds of buffalo in the plains below. Near this spot, we hunted a fat elk, which became our dinner and supper. The mosquitoes are extremely annoying this evening, and since I left my net, I suffered considerably, vowing in my frustration that I will never be guilty of such negligence again during this journey.
[Clark, July 16, 1805]
July 16th Tuesday 1805 a fair morning after a verry cold night, heavy dew, dispatched one man back for an ax left a fiew miles below, and Set out early Killed a Buffalow on which we Brackfast Capt Lewis & 3 men went on to the mountain to take a meridian altitude, passed about 40 Small Camps, which appeared to be abandoned about 10 or 12 days, Suppose they were Snake Indians, a fiew miles above I Saw the poles Standing in thir position of a verry large lodge of 60 feet Diamater, & the appearance of a number of Leather Lodges about, this Sign was old & appeared to have been last fall great number of buffalow the river is not So wide as below from 100 to 150 yards wide & Deep Crouded with Islands & Crooked Some Scattering timber on its edge Such as Cotton wood Cotton willow, willow and box elder, the Srubs are arrow wod, red wood, Choke Cherry, red berries, Goose beries, Sarvis burey, red & yellow Currents a Spcie of Shomake &c.
July 16th, Tuesday, 1805: It was a nice morning after a very cold night, with heavy dew. We sent one man back to retrieve an ax left a few miles downriver and set out early. We killed a buffalo for breakfast. Captain Lewis and three men headed up to the mountain to take a meridian altitude. We passed about 40 small camps that seemed to have been abandoned for around 10 or 12 days. We think they belonged to the Snake Indians. A few miles upstream, I saw the poles still standing from a very large lodge, about 60 feet in diameter, and there were signs of several leather lodges nearby. This evidence was old and looked like it had been from last fall. There were a lot of buffalo. The river here is not as wide as downstream, measuring about 100 to 150 yards, and it's deep, filled with islands and winding. There's some scattered timber along the edge, such as cottonwood, cotton willow, willow, and box elder. The shrubs include arrowwood, redwood, chokecherry, red berries, gooseberries, serviceberry, and red and yellow currants, along with a species of shomake.
I camped on the head of a Small Island near the Stard. Shore at the Rockey Mountains this Range of mountains appears to run N W & S E and is about 800 feet higher than the Water in the river faced with a hard black rock the current of the River from the Medison river to the mountain is gentle bottoms low and extensive, and its General Course is S. 10° W. about 30 miles on a direct line
I set up camp on a small island near the Starde shore at the Rocky Mountains. This mountain range seems to stretch northwest to southeast and is around 800 feet higher than the water in the river. The rocky faces are made of hard black rock. The current of the river from the Madison River to the mountain is gentle, with low and extensive bank areas, and its general course is south at a 10° west angle, covering about 30 miles in a straight line.
[Lewis, July 17, 1805]
Wednesday July 17th 1805. The sunflower is in bloom and abundant in the river bottoms. The Indians of the Missouri particularly those who do not cultivate maze make great uce of the seed of this plant for bread, or use it in thickening their scope. they most commonly first parch the seed and then pound them between two smooth stones until) they reduce it to a fine meal. to this they sometimes mearly add a portion of water and drink it in that state, or add a sufficient quantity of marrow grease to reduce it to the consistency of common dough and eate it in that manner. the last composition I think much best and have eat it in that state heartily and think it a pallateable dish. there is but little of the broad leafed cottonwood above the falls, much the greater portion being of the narrow leafed kind. there are a great abundance of red yellow perple & black currants, and service berries now ripe and in great perfection. I find these fruits very pleasent particularly the yellow currant which I think vastly preferable to those of our gardens. the shrub which produces this fruit rises to the hight of 6 or 8 feet; the stem simple branching and erect. they grow closly ascociated in cops either in the oppen or timbered lands near the watercouses. the leaf is petiolate of a pale green and resembles in it's form that of the red currant common to our gardens. the perianth of the fructification is one leaved, five cleft, abreviated and tubular, the corolla is monopetallous funnel-shaped; very long, superior, withering and of a fine orrange colour. five stamens and one pistillum; of the first, the fillaments are capillare, inserted into the corolla, equal, and converging; the anther ovate, biffid and incumbent. with rispect to the second the germ is roundish, smoth, inferior pedicelled and small; the style, long, and thicker than the stamens, simple, cylindrical, smooth, and erect, withering and remains with the corolla untill the fruit is ripe. stigma simple obtuse and withering.—the fruit is a berry about the size and much the shape of the red currant of our gardins, like them growing in clusters supported by a compound footstalk, but the peduncles which support the several berries are longer in this species and the berries are more scattered. it is quite as transparent as the red current of our gardens, not so ascid, & more agreeably flavored. the other species differ not at all in appearance from the yellow except in the colour and flavor of their berries. I am not confident as to the colour of the corolla, but all those which I observed while in blume as we came up the Missouri were yellow but they might possibly have been all of the yellow kind and that the perple red and black currants here may have corollas of different tints from that of the yellow currant.—The survice berry differs somewhat from that of the U States the bushes are small sometimes not more than 2 feet high and scarcely ever exceed 8 and are proportionably small in their stems, growing very thickly ascosiated in clumps. the fruit is the same form but for the most part larger more lucious and of so deep a perple that on first sight you would think them black.—there are two species of goosbirris here allso but neither of them yet ripe. the choke cherries also abundant and not yet ripe. there is Box alder, red willow and a species of sumac here also. there is a large pine tree situated on a small island at the head of these rappids above our camp; it being the first we have seen for a long distance near the river I called the island pine island. This range of the rocky mountains runs from S E to N. W.—at 8 A.M. this morning Capt. Clark arrived with the party. we took breakfast here, after which I had the box which contained my instruments taken by land arround tower rock to the river above the rappid; the canoes ascended with some difficulty but without loss or injury, with their loads.
Wednesday, July 17th, 1805. The sunflower is blooming and plentiful in the river bottoms. The Missouri Indians, especially those who don’t grow corn, make great use of the seeds from this plant for bread or to thicken their soups. They usually parch the seeds first and then pound them between two smooth stones until they turn into a fine meal. To this, they sometimes just add some water and drink it or mix in enough animal fat to make it the consistency of regular dough and eat it that way. I think the latter option is much better, and I’ve enjoyed eating it like that, finding it quite tasty. There’s not much of the broad-leafed cottonwood above the falls; most of the trees are of the narrow-leafed kind. There are plenty of red, yellow, purple, and black currants, along with service berries, now ripe and perfect. I find these fruits very pleasant, especially the yellow currant, which I think is vastly superior to those from our gardens. The shrub that produces this fruit grows to about 6 or 8 feet tall, has a simple, branching, upright stem. They grow closely grouped in clumps, either in open or wooded areas near the waterways. The leaf is petiolate, pale green, and shape-wise resembles that of the red currant common in our gardens. The flower structure has one leaf, is five-parted, short, and tubular, with a long, funnel-shaped, single-petal corolla that is superior, withering, and a nice orange color. There are five stamens and one pistil; the filaments of the stamens are hair-like, inserted into the corolla, equal in length, and converge; the anther is oval, split, and sits on top. As for the pistil, the germ is rounded, smooth, positioned low on a small stem; the style is long and thicker than the stamens, simple, cylindrical, smooth, and upright, withering and staying with the corolla until the fruit is ripe. The stigma is simple, blunt, and withering. The fruit is a berry about the size and shape of the red currant from our gardens, growing in clusters supported by a compound stalk, but the stems supporting the individual berries are longer in this species, and the berries are more spread out. It’s just as transparent as the red currant from our gardens, not as sour, and more pleasantly flavored. The other species looks identical to the yellow except for the color and taste of their berries. I’m not sure about the color of the corolla, but all the ones I saw in bloom while we traveled up the Missouri were yellow; however, they could all have been yellow, and the purple, red, and black currants here might have flowers in different colors than the yellow currant. The service berry is a bit different from those in the U.S.; the bushes are small, sometimes not more than 2 feet tall and rarely exceed 8 feet, with proportionally thin stems, growing very thickly in clumps. The fruit is a similar shape but generally larger, tastier, and so deep in color that at first glance you might think they’re black. There are also two species of gooseberries here, but neither are ripe yet. The chokecherries are abundant but also not ripe. There’s box alder, red willow, and a type of sumac here too. There’s a large pine tree located on a small island at the head of these rapids above our camp; being the first one we’ve seen for a long stretch near the river, I named the island Pine Island. This range of the Rocky Mountains runs from southeast to northwest. At 8 A.M. this morning, Captain Clark and the party arrived. We had breakfast here, after which I had the box containing my instruments transported by land around Tower Rock to the river above the rapids; the canoes ascended with some difficulty but without loss or injury, carrying their loads.
After making those observations we proceed, and as the canoes were still heavy loaded all persons not employed in navigating the canoes walled on shore. the river clifts were so steep and frequently projecting into the river with their perpendicular points in such manner that we could not pass them by land, we wer therefore compelled to pass and repass the river very frequently in the couse of the evening. the bottoms are narrow the river also narrow deep and but little current. river from 70 to 100 yds. wide. but little timber on the river aspin constitutes a part of that little. see more pine than usual on the mountains tho still but thinly scattered. we saw some mountain rams or bighorned anamals this evening, and no other game whatever and indeed there is but little appearance of any. in some places both banks of the river are formed for a short distance of nearly perpendicular rocks of a dark black grannite of great hight; the river has the appearance of having cut it's passage in the course of time through this solid rock. we ascended about 6 miles this evening from the entrance of the mountain and encamped on the Stard. side where we found as much wood as made our fires. musquetoes still troublesome knats not as much so.—Capt. C. now informed me that after I left him yesterday, he saw the poles of a large lodge in praire on the Stard. side of the river which was 60 feet in diameter and appeared to have been built last fall; there were the remains of about 80 leather lodges near the place of the same apparent date. This large lodge was of the same construction of that mentioned above the white bear Islands. the party came on very well and encamped on the lower point of an island near the Stard. shore on that evening. this morning they had set out early and proceeded without obstruction untill they reached the rappid where I was encamped.
After making those observations, we continued on, and since the canoes were still heavily loaded, everyone not involved in navigating the canoes stayed on shore. The river cliffs were so steep and often jutted into the river with their vertical points that we couldn’t get around them by land, so we were forced to cross the river back and forth quite a few times during the evening. The banks are narrow, and the river is also narrow and deep with very little current, measuring from 70 to 100 yards wide. There’s not much timber along the river; aspen makes up part of what little there is. We noticed more pine than usual on the mountains, though it's still thinly scattered. We saw some mountain rams or bighorn animals this evening, but no other game at all, and there seems to be little sign of any. In some areas, both sides of the river have nearly vertical cliffs of dark black granite that are quite high; it looks like the river has carved its path through this solid rock over time. We traveled about 6 miles this evening from the entrance of the mountains and camped on the starboard side, where we found enough wood for our fires. Mosquitoes were still bothersome, but the gnats were less of a problem. Captain C. informed me that after I left him yesterday, he saw the poles of a large lodge in the prairie on the starboard side of the river, which was 60 feet in diameter and seemed to have been built last fall; there were remains of about 80 leather lodges nearby that looked to be from the same time period. This large lodge was constructed similarly to the one mentioned near the White Bear Islands. The party made good progress and camped on the lower point of an island near the starboard shore that evening. This morning, they set out early and continued on without obstruction until they reached the rapid where I was camped.
[Clark, July 17, 1805]
July 17th Wednesday 1805 Set out early this morning and Crossed the rapid at the Island Cald pine rapid with Some dificuelty, at this rapid I came up with Capt Lewis & party took a Medn. altitude & we took Some Luner Observations &c. and proceeded on, the emence high Precipies oblige all the party to pass & repass the river from one point to another the river confined in maney places in a verry narrow Chanel from 70 to 120 yards wide bottoms narrow without timber and maney places the mountain approach on both Sides, we observe great deel of Scattering pine on the mountains, Some aspin, Spruce & fur trees took a meridian altd. which gave for Lattitude 46° 42' 14" 7/10 N we proceeded on verry well about 8 miles & Camped on the Stard Side The river crooked bottoms narrow, Clifts high and Steep, I assended a Spur of the Mountain which I found to be highe & dificuelt of axcess, Containig Pitch Pine & Covered with grass Scercely any game to be Seen The yellow Current now ripe also the fussey red Choke Cheries getting ripe Purple Current are also ripe. Saw Several Ibex or mountain rams to day
July 17th, Wednesday, 1805 Set out early this morning and crossed the rapids at Island Cald Pine with some difficulty. At this rapids, I met up with Captain Lewis and his party. We took a median altitude and some lunar observations, then continued on. The immense high cliffs forced the entire party to pass back and forth across the river from one point to another. The river is confined in many places to a very narrow channel, ranging from 70 to 120 yards wide. The bottoms are narrow without timber, and in many places, the mountains approach on both sides. We noticed a lot of scattered pine on the mountains, as well as some aspen, spruce, and fir trees. I took a meridian altitude which indicated a latitude of 46° 42' 14" 7/10 N. We proceeded very well for about 8 miles and camped on the starboard side. The river is winding, the bottoms are narrow, and the cliffs are high and steep. I ascended a spur of the mountain which I found to be higher and difficult to access, containing pitch pine and covered with grass. There was barely any game to be seen. The yellow currants are now ripe, and the fuzzy red chokecherries are getting ripe too. Purple currants are also ripe. I spotted several ibex or mountain rams today.
[Lewis, July 18, 1805]
Thursday July 18th 1805. Set out early this morning. previous to our departure saw a large herd of the Bighorned anamals on the immencely high and nearly perpendicular clift opposite to us; on the fase of this clift they walked about and hounded from rock to rock with apparent unconcern where it appared to me that no quadruped could have stood, and from which had they made one false step they must have been precipitated at least a 500 feet. this anamal appears to frequent such precepices and clifts where in fact they are perfectly secure from the pursuit of the wolf, bear, or even man himself.—at the distance of 21/2 miles we passed the entrance of a considerable river on the Stard. side; about 80 yds. wide being nearly as wide as the Missouri at that place. it's current is rapid and water extreamly transparent; the bed is formed of small smooth stones of flat rounded or other figures. it's bottoms are narrow but possess as much timber as the Missouri. the country is mountainous and broken through which it passes. it appears as if it might be navigated but to what extent must be conjectural. this handsome bold and clear stream we named in honour of the Secretary of war calling it Dearborn's river.- as we were anxious now to meet with the Sosonees or snake Indians as soon as possible in order to obtain information relative to the geography of the country and also if necessary, some horses we thought it better for one of us either Capt. C. or myself to take a small party & proceed on up the river, some distance before the canoes, in order to discover them, should they be on the river before the daily discharge of our guns, which was necessary in procuring subsistence for the party, should allarm and cause them to retreat to the mountains and conceal themselves, supposing us to be their enemies who visit them usually by the way of this river. accordingly Capt. Clark set out this morning after breakfast with Joseph Fields, Pots and his servant York. we proceeded on tolerably well; the current stonger than yesterday we employ the cord and oars principally tho sometimes the setting pole. in the evening we passed a large creek about 30 yds. wide which disembogues on the Stard. side; it discharges a bold current of water it's banks low and bed frormed of stones altogether; this stream we called Ordway's creek after Sergt. John Ordway. I have observed for several days a species of flax growing in the river bottoms the leaf stem and pericarp of which resembles the common flax cultivated in the U States. the stem rises to the hight of about 21/2 or 3 feet high; as many as 8 or ten of which proceede from the same root. the root appears to be perennial. the bark of the stem is thick strong and appears as if it would make excellent Hax. the seed are not yet ripe but I hope to have an opportunity of collecting some of them after they are so if it should on experiment prove to yeald good flax and at the same time admit of being cut without injuring the perennial root it will be a most valuable plant, and I think there is the greatest probability that it will do so, for notwithstanding the seed have not yet arrived at maturity it is puting up suckers or young shoots from the same root and would seem therefore that those which are fully grown and which are in the proper stage of vegitation to produce the best fax are not longer essencial to the preservation or support of the root. the river somewhat wider than yesterday and the mountains more distant from the river and not so high; the bottoms are but narrow and little or no timber near the river. some pine on the mountains which seems principally confined to their uper region. we killed one Elk this morning and found part of the flesh and the skin of a deer this evening which had been kited and left by Capt. Clark. we saw several herds of the Bighorn but they were all out of our reach on inacessable clifts.- we encamped on the Lard. side in a small grove of narrow leafed cottonwood there is not any of the broad leafed cottonwood on the river since it has entered the mountains. Capt Clark ascended the river on the Stard. side. in the early part of the day after he left me the hills were so steep that he gained but little off us; in the evening he passed over a mountain by which means he cut off many miles of the river's circuitous rout; the Indian road which he pursued over this mountain is wide and appears as if it had been cut down or dug in many places; he passed two streams of water, the branches of Ordway's creek, on which he saw a number of beaver dams succeeding each other in close order and extending as far up those streams as he could discover them in their couse towards the mountains. he also saw many bighorn anamals on the clifts of the mountains. not far beyond the mountain which he passed in the evening he encamped on a small stream of runing water. having travelled about 20 m. the water of those rivulets which make down from these mountains is extreemly cold pure and fine. the soil near the river is of a good quality and produces a luxuriant growth of grass and weeds; among the last the sunflower holds a distinguished place. the aspin is small but grows very commonly on the river and small streams which make down from the Mouts.
Thursday, July 18, 1805. We set out early this morning. Before we left, we saw a large herd of bighorn sheep on the incredibly high and nearly vertical cliff across from us; they moved around and jumped from rock to rock with apparent ease, where it seemed impossible for any animal to stand. If they had made one wrong move, they could have plummeted at least 500 feet. These animals seem to prefer such cliffs, where they are completely safe from wolves, bears, or even humans. About 2.5 miles later, we passed the entrance of a sizable river on the starboard side; it was about 80 yards wide, nearly as wide as the Missouri at that spot. Its current is fast and the water is extremely clear; the riverbed is made of small smooth stones of various shapes. The bottoms are narrow but have as much timber as the Missouri. The area is mountainous and rugged as the river flows through it. It seems like it could be navigated, but how far is uncertain. We named this beautiful, bold, and clear stream Dearborn's River in honor of the Secretary of War. We were eager to meet the Shoshone or Snake Indians as soon as possible to gather information about the area's geography and, if necessary, obtain some horses. We decided that one of us, either Captain Clark or I, should take a small party and head up the river ahead of the canoes to find them, in case they were on the river before our daily gunfire, which was necessary for our food supply, might alarm them and make them retreat to the mountains, thinking we were enemies coming through the river. Captain Clark set out this morning after breakfast with Joseph Fields, Pots, and his servant York. We made decent progress; the current was stronger than yesterday, so we mostly used the cord and oars, although sometimes we used the setting pole. In the evening, we passed a large creek about 30 yards wide emptying into the starboard side; it had a strong current, and its banks were low with a bed made entirely of stones. We named this stream Ordway's Creek after Sergeant John Ordway. I have noticed a type of flax growing in the river bottoms for several days; the leaf, stem, and seed pod resemble the common flax cultivated in the United States. The stem grows to about 2.5 or 3 feet high, with as many as 8 or 10 emerging from the same root. The root appears to be perennial. The stem's bark is thick and strong and seems like it would make excellent flax. The seeds aren't ripe yet, but I hope to collect some once they are. If experiments show that it can yield good flax and can be cut without damaging the perennial root, it will be a very valuable plant. I think it will likely do well, because even though the seeds aren't mature yet, it is sending up suckers or young shoots from the same root, suggesting that the fully grown plants aren't essential for the root's survival. The river is a bit wider than yesterday, and the mountains are farther from the river and not as tall; the bottoms are narrow, with little to no timber near the river, only some pine in the upper regions of the mountains. We killed one elk this morning and found part of a deer’s flesh and skin this evening, which had been caught and left by Captain Clark. We saw several herds of bighorn sheep, but they were all out of reach on inaccessible cliffs. We camped on the left side in a small grove of narrow-leaved cottonwood; there hasn’t been any broad-leaved cottonwood on the river since entering the mountains. Captain Clark went up the river on the starboard side. In the early part of the day after he left me, the hills were so steep that he made little progress. In the evening, he crossed over a mountain, cutting off many miles of the river's winding route. The Indian trail he followed over this mountain is wide and looks like it has been cleared or dug in many places; he crossed two streams, branches of Ordway's Creek, where he saw several beaver dams positioned close together, extending as far upstream as he could see in their path toward the mountains. He also spotted many bighorn sheep on the cliffs of the mountains. Not far beyond the mountain he crossed in the evening, he camped by a small stream of running water after traveling about 20 miles. The waters from these streams flowing down from the mountains are extremely cold, pure, and clear. The soil near the river is of good quality and produces a lush growth of grass and weeds; among the weeds, sunflowers are prominent. The aspen trees are small but grow very commonly along the river and small streams that run down from the mountains.
I also observed another species of flax today which is not so large as the first, sildome obtaining a greater hight than 9 Inches or a foot the stem and leaf resemble the other species but the stem is rarely branched, bearing a single monopetallous bellshaped blue flower which is suspended with it's limb downwards,
I also saw another type of flax today that isn't as big as the first, rarely reaching more than 9 inches to a foot in height. The stem and leaves look similar to the other species, but the stem is usually unbranched, supporting a single, cup-shaped blue flower that hangs with its petals facing downwards.
[Clark, July 18, 1805]
July 18th Tursday 1805 a fine morning passed a Considerable river which falls in on the Stard Side and nearly as wide as the Missouri we call Dearbournes river after the Sety. of war. we thought it prudent for a partey to go a head for fear our fireing Should allarm the Indians and cause them to leave the river and take to the mountains for Safty from their enemes who visit them thro this rout. I deturmined to go a head with a Small partey a few days and find the Snake Indians if possible after brackfast I took J. Fields Potts & my Servent proceeded on. the Country So Hilley that we gained but little of the Canoes untill in the evening I passed over a mountain on an Indian rode by which rout I cut off Several miles of the Meanderings of the River, the roade which passes this mountain is wide and appears to have been dug in maney places, we Camped on a Small run of Clear Cold water, musquitors verry troublesom the forepart of the evening I Saw great maney Ibex. we Crossed two Streams of running water on those Streams I saw Several Beaver dams. ordway Creek the Countrey is Mountanious & rockey except the valey &c. which is Covered with earth of a good quallity without timber, The timber which is principally pitch pine is Confined to the mountains, the Small runs & Creeks which have water running in them Contain Cotton-Willow, Willow, & aspin. trees all Small I Saw maney fine Springs & Streams of running water which Sink & rise alternately in the Valies the water of those Streams are fine, those Streams which run off into the river are darned up by the beaver from near ther mouthes up as high as I could See up them
July 18th, Thursday, 1805. It was a beautiful morning as we passed a significant river that flows into the Sturgeon Side, nearly as wide as the Missouri. We named it Dearbourne's River after the Secretary of War. We thought it wise to send a party ahead to prevent our gunfire from alarming the Indians, causing them to flee the river and take refuge in the mountains from their enemies who travel through this route. I decided to go ahead with a small group for a few days to find the Snake Indians if possible. After breakfast, I took J. Fields Potts and my servant and proceeded on. The land was so hilly that we didn’t gain much ground with the canoes until evening when I crossed a mountain on an Indian trail, which cut off several miles of the river’s winding path. The road that goes over this mountain is wide and seems to have been dug in many places. We camped by a small stream of clear, cold water, and the mosquitoes were quite bothersome in the early part of the evening. I saw many ibex. We crossed two streams of running water, where I noticed several beaver dams. The terrain is mountainous and rocky except for the valley, which is covered with quality soil but has no timber. The timber, mainly pitch pine, is confined to the mountains. The small streams and creeks that have flowing water contain cottonwood, willow, and aspen trees, all small. I noticed many fine springs and streams of running water that alternately sink and rise in the valleys; the water in these streams is clear. The streams flowing into the river are blocked by beaver dams from near their mouths as far upstream as I could see.
[Lewis, July 19, 1805]
Friday July 19th 1805 The Musquetoes are very troublesome to us as usual. this morning we set out early and proceeded on very well tho the water appears to encrease in volocity as we advance. the current has been strong all day and obstructed with some rapids, tho these are but little broken by rocks and are perfectly safe. the river deep and from 100 to 150 yds. wide. I walked along shore today and killed an Antelope. whever we get a view of the lofty summits of the mountains the snow presents itself, altho we are almost suffocated in this confined vally with heat. the pine cedar and balsum fir grow on the mountains in irregular assemleages or spots mostly high up on their sides and summits. this evening we entered much the most remarkable clifts that we have yet seen. these clifts rise from the waters edge on either side perpendicularly to the hight of 1200 feet. every object here wears a dark and gloomy aspect. the towering and projecting rocks in many places seem ready to tumble on us. the river appears to have forced it's way through this immence body of solid rock for the distance of 53/4 miles and where it makes it's exit below has thown on either side vast collumns of rocks mountains high. the river appears to have woarn a passage just the width of it's channel or 150 yds. it is deep from side to side nor is ther in the 1st 3 miles of this distance a spot except one of a few yards in extent on which a man could rest the soal of his foot. several fine springs burst out at the waters edge from the interstices of the rocks. it happens fortunately that altho the current is strong it is not so much so but what it may be overcome with the oars for there is hear no possibility of using either the cord or Setting pole. it was late in the evening before I entered this place and was obliged to continue my rout untill sometime after dark before I found a place sufficiently large to encamp my small party; at length such an one occurred on the lard. side where we found plenty of lightwood and pichpine. this rock is a black grannite below and appears to be of a much lighter colour above and from the fragments I take it to be flint of a yelloish brown and light creemcolourd yellow.—from the singular appearance of this place I called it the gates of the rocky mountains. the mountains higher today than yesterday, saw some Bighorns and a few Antelopes also beaver and Otter; the latter are now very plenty one of the men killed one of them today with a setting pole. musquetoes less troublesome than usual. we had a thundershower today about 1 P.M. which continued about an hour and was attended with som hail. we have seen no buffaloe since we entered the mounts. this morning early Capt. Clark pursued his rout, saw early in the day the remains of several Indians camps formed of willow brush which appeared to have been inhabited some time this spring. saw where the natives had pealed the bark off the pine trees about this same season. this the indian woman with us informs that they do to obtain the sap and soft part of the wood and bark for food. at 11 A.M. Capt. C. feell in with a gang of Elk of which he killed 2. and not being able to obtain as much wood as would make a fire substituded the dung of the buffaloe and cooked a part of their meat on which they breakfasted and again pursueed their rout, which lay along an old indian road. this evening they passed a hansome valley watered by a large creek which extends itself with it's valley into the mountain to a considerable distance. the latter part of the evening their rout lay over a hilly and mountanous country covered with the sharp fragments of flint which cut and bruised their feet excessively; nor wer the prickly pear of the leveler part of the rout much less painfull; they have now become so abundant in the open uplands that it is impossible to avoid them and their thorns are so keen and stif that they pearce a double thickness of dressed deers skin with ease. Capt. C. informed me that he extracted 17 of these bryers from his feet this evening after he encamped by the light of the fire. I have guarded or reather fortifyed my feet against them by soaling my mockersons with the hide of the buffaloe in parchment. he encamped on the river much fortiegud having passed two mountains in the course of the day and travelled about 30 miles.-
Friday, July 19th, 1805 The mosquitoes are as annoying as ever. This morning, we set out early and made good progress, although the water seems to be increasing in speed as we move forward. The current has been strong all day, and we're facing some rapids, though they aren't badly broken by rocks and are completely safe. The river is deep and spans about 100 to 150 yards wide. I walked along the shore today and shot an antelope. Whenever we catch a glimpse of the towering mountain peaks, snow becomes visible, even as we struggle with the heat in this cramped valley. Pine, cedar, and balsam fir grow on the mountains in scattered clusters, mostly high on their slopes and summits. This evening, we entered some of the most remarkable cliffs we've seen so far. These cliffs rise straight up from the water's edge on both sides to a height of 1,200 feet. Everything here has a dark and gloomy look. The towering and jutting rocks in many places seem poised to collapse on us. It looks like the river has carved its way through this immense solid rock for a distance of 5.75 miles, and where it exits below, it has thrown up vast columns of rock, mountain-high, on either side. The river seems to have worn a path just the width of its channel—about 150 yards. It's deep from bank to bank, and during the first 3 miles of this stretch, there’s only one small spot, just a few yards wide, where a person could rest their foot. Several fine springs erupt at the water's edge from the cracks in the rocks. Fortunately, although the current is strong, it’s manageable with the oars, as there’s no way to use a cord or setting pole here. It was late in the evening by the time I reached this spot and had to press on until after dark before I found a place large enough to set up camp for my small group; eventually, I found such a spot on the left side where we discovered plenty of lightwood and pitch pine. The rock below is black granite but appears much lighter above, and from the fragments, I believe it’s flint of a yellowish-brown and light cream color. Due to the unusual appearance of this location, I named it the Gates of the Rocky Mountains. The mountains are higher today than yesterday; I saw some bighorns and a few antelopes, along with beavers and otters; the latter are quite abundant now, and one of the men caught one today using a setting pole. The mosquitoes were less bothersome than usual. We had a thunderstorm today around 1 P.M. that lasted about an hour and was accompanied by some hail. We haven't seen any buffalo since entering the mountains. This morning, early on, Capt. Clark continued his route and saw the remains of several Indian camps made from willow brush, which seemed to have been occupied earlier this spring. He noticed where the natives had peeled bark off pine trees around that same time; our Indian woman informed us that they do this to obtain the sap and the soft parts of the wood and bark for food. At 11 A.M., Capt. Clark encountered a herd of elk, from which he killed two. Unable to find enough wood to make a fire, he substituted buffalo dung and cooked part of the meat, which they ate for breakfast before continuing along an old Indian road. In the evening, they passed through a beautiful valley watered by a large creek that extends into the mountains for quite a distance. Later in the evening, their path crossed a hilly and mountainous area covered with sharp flint shards that cut and bruised their feet severely; the prickly pear in the flatter parts of the route was no less painful. They are now so prevalent in the open uplands that it's impossible to avoid them, and their thorns are so sharp that they easily pierce through double layers of dressed deer skin. Capt. Clark told me he pulled 17 of these thorns from his feet this evening after setting up camp by the fire. I’ve protected my feet against them by lining my moccasins with buffalo hide. He camped by the river, well fortified, having crossed two mountains during the day and traveled about 30 miles.
[Clark, July 19, 1805]
July 19th Fryday 1805 a find morning I proceeded on in an Indian path river verry crooked passed over two mountains Saw Several Indian Camps which they have left this Spring. Saw trees Peeled & found poles &c. at 11 oC I Saw a gange of Elk as we had no provision Concluded to kill Some Killd two and dined being oblige to Substitute dry buffalow dung in place of wood, this evening passed over a Cream Coloured flint which roled down from the Clifts into the bottoms, the Clifts Contain flint a dark grey Stone & a redish brown intermixed and no one Clift is Solid rock, all the rocks of everry description is in Small pices appears to have been broken by Some Convulsion—passed a butifull Creek on the Std. Side this eveng which meanders thro a butifull Vallie of great extent, I call after Sgt Pryor the countrey on the Lard Side a high mountain Saw Several Small rapids to day the river Keep its width and appear to be deep, my feet is verry much brused & cut walking over the flint, & constantly Stuck full Prickley pear thorns, I puled out 17 by the light of the fire to night We camped on the river Same (Lard) Side Musqutors verry troublesom.
July 19th, Friday, 1805 - a nice morning. I continued along an Indian path. The river was very winding. I crossed over two mountains and saw several Indian camps that had been left this spring. I noticed peeled trees and found poles, etc. At 11 o’clock, I saw a herd of elk. Since we had no provisions, we decided to kill some. We killed two and had them for lunch, substituting dry buffalo dung for wood. This evening, I passed over pale-colored flint that rolled down from the cliffs into the valley. The cliffs contain dark grey stone and reddish-brown mixed together, and no cliff is solid rock; all the rocks of every description are in small pieces, which seem to have been broken by some kind of upheaval. I passed a beautiful creek on the starboard side this evening that meanders through a lovely valley of great extent. I named the area on the left bank after Sgt. Pryor, as it has a high mountain. I saw several small rapids today. The river maintained its width and appeared to be deep. My feet are very bruised and cut from walking over the flint, and I constantly got stuck with prickly pear thorns. I pulled out 17 thorns by the firelight tonight. We camped by the river on the same (left) side. The mosquitoes are very bothersome.
[Lewis, July 20, 1805]
Saturday 20 h 1805. Set out early this morning as usual, currant strong, we therefore employ the toe rope when ever the banks permit the use of it; the water is reather deep for the seting pole in most places. at 6 A.M. the hills retreated from the river and the valley became wider than we have seen it since we entered the mountains. some scattering timber on the river and in the valley. consisting of the narrowleafed Cottonwood aspin & pine. vas numbers of the several species of currants goosberries and service berries; of each of these I preserved some seeds. I found a black currant which I thought preferable in flavor to the yellow. this currant is really a charming fruit and I am confident would be prefered at our markets to any currant now cultivated in the U States. we killed an Elk this morning which was very acceptable to us. through the valley which we entered early in the morning a large creek flows from the mountains and discharges itself into the river behind an island on Stard. side about 15 yds. wide this we called Potts's Creek after John Potts one of our party. about 10 A.M. we saw the smoke arrose as if the country had been set on fire up the valley of this creek about 7 ms. distant we were at a loss to determine whether it had been set on fire by the natives as a signall among themselves on discovering us, as is their custom or whether it had been set on fire by Capt. C. and party accedentally. the first however proved to be the fact, they had unperceived by us discovered Capt. Clark's party or mine, and had set the plain on fire to allarm the more distant natives and fled themselves further into the interior of the mountains. this evening we found the skin of an Elk and part of the flesh of the anamal which Capt. C. had left near the river at the upper side of the valley where he assended the mountain with a note informing me of his transactions and that he should pass the mounts which lay just above us and wate our arrival at some convenient place on the river. the other elk which Capt. C. had killed we could not find. about 2 in the evening we had passed through a range of low mountains and the country bacame more open again, tho still broken and untimbered and the bottoms not very extensive. we encamped on the Lard. side near a spring on a high bank the prickly pears are so abundant that we could scarcely find room to lye. just above our camp the river is again closed in by the Mouts. on both sides. I saw a black woodpecker today about the size of the lark woodpecker as black as a crow. I indevoured to get a shoot at it but could not. it is a distinct species of woodpecker; it has a long tail and flys a good deel like the jay bird.
Saturday 20, 1805. We set out early this morning as usual, with a strong current, so we used the toe rope whenever the banks allowed it; the water is pretty deep in most places for the setting pole. At 6 A.M., the hills receded from the river, and the valley opened up wider than we’ve seen it since we entered the mountains. There’s some scattered timber along the river and in the valley, including narrow-leafed cottonwood, aspen, and pine. There are many species of currants, gooseberries, and serviceberries; I saved seeds from each. I found a black currant that I thought tasted better than the yellow one. This currant is truly a delightful fruit, and I’m sure it would be preferred in our markets over any currant now grown in the U.S. We hunted an elk this morning, which was very welcome. In the valley we entered early, a large creek flows from the mountains and drains into the river behind an island on the starboard side, about 15 yards wide; we named this Potts's Creek after John Potts, one of our group. Around 10 A.M., we saw smoke rising as if the area had been set on fire up the valley of this creek, about 7 miles away. We couldn't tell if the fire was set by the natives as a signal among themselves upon spotting us, as is their custom, or if it had been accidentally caused by Captain C. and his group. It turned out to be the first case; they had, without us noticing, discovered Captain Clark's party or mine and set the plain on fire to alert more distant natives before fleeing deeper into the mountains themselves. This evening, we found the skin and some of the flesh of an elk that Captain C. had left near the river at the upper end of the valley where he ascended the mountain, along with a note informing me of his activities and that he planned to cross the mountains just above us and wait for us at some convenient spot along the river. We couldn’t find the other elk that Captain C. had killed. Around 2 in the afternoon, we passed through a range of low mountains, and the land opened up again, though it was still rough and without timber, and the bottomlands weren’t very extensive. We camped on the left side near a spring on a high bank, where prickly pears were so abundant that we could barely find room to lay down. Just above our camp, the river is again flanked by mountains on both sides. I saw a black woodpecker today, about the size of a lark woodpecker, as black as a raven. I tried to get a shot at it but couldn’t. It’s a distinct species of woodpecker; it has a long tail and flies quite a bit like a jaybird.
This morning Capt. Clark set out early and proceeded on through a valley leaving the river about six miles to his left; he fell in with an old Indian road which he pursued untill it struck the river about 18 miles from his camp of the last evening just above the entrance of a large creek which we call white paint Creek. the party were so much fortiegued with their march and their feet cut with the flint and perced with the prickly pears untill they had become so painfull that he proceeded but little further before he determined to encamp on the river and wait my arrival.—Capt. C. saw a smoke today up the valley of Pryor's creek which was no doubt caused by the natives likewise. he left signals or signs on his rout in order to inform the indians should they pursue his trale that we were not their enemies, but white men and their friends.—cloth &c
This morning, Capt. Clark set out early and continued through a valley, leaving the river about six miles to his left. He came across an old Indian road, which he followed until it reached the river about 18 miles from his camp of the previous evening, just above the entrance of a large creek we call White Paint Creek. The party was so exhausted from their march, and their feet were cut by the flint and pierced by the prickly pears to the point of great pain, that he didn’t go much further before deciding to set up camp by the river and wait for my arrival. Capt. C. saw smoke today up the valley of Pryor's Creek, which was likely caused by the natives as well. He left signals or signs along his route to inform the Indians, should they follow his trail, that we were not their enemies, but white men and their friends. —cloth &c
[Clark, July 20, 1805]
July 20th Satturday 1805 a fine morning we proceded on thro a valley leaveing the river about 6 miles to our left and fell into an Indian roade which took us to the river above the mo. of a Creek 18 miles The Misquetors verry troublesom my man York nearly tired out, the bottoms of my feet blistered. I observe a Smoke rise to our right up the Valley of the last Creek about 12 miles distant, The Cause of this Smoke I can't account for certainly tho think it probable that the Indians have heard the Shooting of the Partey below and Set the Praries or Valey on fire to allarm their Camps; Supposeing our party to be a war party comeing against them, I left Signs to Shew the Indians if they Should come on our trail that we were not their enemeys. Camped on the river, the feet of the men with me So Stuck with Prickley pear & cut with the Stones that they were Scerseley able to march at a Slow gate this after noon
July 20th, Saturday, 1805 - It was a beautiful morning as we made our way through a valley, leaving the river about 6 miles to our left. We picked up an Indian trail that led us to the river above the mouth of a creek, 18 miles away. The mosquitoes were really bothersome, and my man York was nearly exhausted, with the bottoms of my feet blistered. I noticed smoke rising to our right, up the valley of the last creek, about 12 miles away. I can’t say for sure what caused the smoke, but I think it's likely that the Indians heard the shooting from the party below and set the prairies or valley on fire to alert their camps, assuming that our group was a war party coming to attack them. I left signs to show the Indians, in case they followed our trail, that we were not their enemies. We camped by the river, and the feet of the men with me were so stuck with prickly pear and cut by stones that they could barely march at a slow pace this afternoon.
[Lewis, July 21, 1805]
Sunday July 21st 1805. Set out early this morning and passed a bad rappid where the river enters the mountain about 1 m. from our camp of last evening the Clifts high and covered with fragments of broken rocks. the current strong; we employed the toe rope principally, and also the pole as the river is not now so deep but reather wider and much more rapid our progress was therefore slow and laborious. we saw three swans this morning, which like the geese have not yet recovered the feathers of the wing and could not fly we killed two of them the third escaped by diving and passed down with the current; they had no young ones with them therefore presume they do not breed in this country these are the first we have seen on the river for a great distance. we daily see great numbers of gees with their young which are perfectly feathered except the wings which are deficient in both young and old. my dog caught several today, as he frequently dose. the young ones are very fine, but the old gees are poor and unfit for uce. saw several of the large brown or sandhill Crain today with their young. the young Crain is as large as a turkey and cannot fly they are of a bright red bey colour or that of the common deer at this season. this bird feeds on grass prinsipally and is found in the river bottoms. the grass near the river is lofty and green that of the hill sides and high open grounds is perfectly dry and appears to be scorched by the heat of the sun. the country was rough mountainous & much as that of yesterday untill towards evening when the river entered a beautifull and extensive plain country of about 10 or 12 miles wide which extended upwards further that the eye could reach this valley is bounded by two nearly parallel ranges of high mountains which have their summits partially covered with snow. below the snowey region pine succeeds and reaches down their sides in some parts to the plain but much the greater portion of their surfaces is uncovered with timber and expose either a barren sterile soil covered with dry parched grass or black and rugged rocks. the river immediately on entering this valley assumes a different aspect and character, it spreads to a mile and upwards in width crouded with Islands, some of them large, is shallow enough for the use of the seting pole in almost every part and still more rappid than before; it's bottom is smooth stones and some large rocks as it has been since we have entered the mountains. the grass in these extensive bottoms is green and fine, about 18 inches or 2 feet high. the land is a black rich loam and appears very fertile. we encamped in this beatiful valley on the Lard. side the party complain of being much fatiegued with this days travel. we killed one deer today.—This morning we passed a bold creek 28 yds. wide which falls in on Stard. side. it has a handsome and an extensive valley. this we called Pryor's Creek after Sergt. (John) Pryor one of our party. I also saw two fesants today of a dark brown colour much larger than the phesant of the U States.
Sunday, July 21, 1805. We set out early this morning and passed a rough rapid where the river enters the mountains about a mile from our camp last night. The cliffs are high and littered with broken rocks. The current is strong, and we mainly used the toe rope, as well as the pole, since the river isn’t very deep right now but rather wider and much faster. Thus, our progress was slow and laborious. We saw three swans this morning, which, like the geese, haven’t yet regained their wing feathers and couldn’t fly. We hunted two of them, while the third escaped by diving and floated down with the current; they had no young with them, so we assume they don’t breed in this area. These are the first swans we’ve seen on the river in a long time. Daily, we see many geese with their young, who are fully feathered except for their wings, both young and old. My dog caught several today, as he often does. The young ones are quite nice, but the older geese are thin and unfit for eating. I also spotted several large brown or sandhill cranes today with their young. The young cranes are as big as turkeys and can’t fly. They are a bright reddish-bay color, similar to that of a common deer at this time of year. This bird mainly feeds on grass and is found in the river bottoms. The grass near the river is tall and green, while that on the hillsides and open ground is completely dry and looks scorched by the sun. The terrain was rough and mountainous, much like yesterday, until towards evening when the river entered a beautiful and expansive plain about 10 to 12 miles wide, stretching far beyond what the eye could see. This valley is bordered by two nearly parallel ranges of high mountains, with their peaks partially covered in snow. Below the snowy area, pine trees grow down the mountainsides in some places to the plains, but much of their surfaces are bare, showing either a barren, sterile soil covered with dry grass or black, rugged rocks. Upon entering this valley, the river takes on a different appearance and character; it spreads over a mile wide, crowded with islands, some large, shallow enough for the setting pole almost everywhere, and is even more rapid than before. Its bottom consists of smooth stones and some large rocks, as it has since we entered the mountains. The grass in these expansive bottoms is green and lush, about 18 inches to 2 feet high. The land is a rich black loam and looks very fertile. We camped in this beautiful valley on the left side. The party complained of being very tired from today’s travel. We killed one deer today. This morning, we crossed a bold creek 28 yards wide that flows in from the right side. It has a nice, extensive valley, which we named Pryor's Creek after Sgt. (John) Pryor, one of our party. I also saw two pheasants today, dark brown in color and much larger than the pheasants in the U.S.
this morning Capt. Clark having determined to hunt and wait my arrival somewhere about his preset station was fearfull that some indians might still be on the river above him sufficiently near to hear the report of his guns and therefore proceeded up, the river about three miles and not finding any indians nor discovering any fresh appearance of them returned about four miles below and fixed his camp near the river; after refreshing themselves with a few hours rest they set out in different directions to hunt. Capt C. killed a buck and Fields a buck and doe. he caught a young curlooe which was nearly feathered. the musquetoes were equally as troublesome to them as to ourselves this evening; tho some hours after dark the air becomes so cold that these insects disappear. the men are all fortunately supplyed with musquetoe biers otherwise it would be impossible for them to exist under the fatiegues which they daily encounter without their natural rest which they could not obtain for those tormenting insects if divested of their biers. timber still extreemly scant on the river but there is more in this valley than we have seen since we entered the mountains; the creeks which fall into the river are better supplyed with this article than the river itself.-
This morning, Captain Clark decided to hunt and wait for me to arrive at his current location. He was worried that some Native Americans might still be up the river close enough to hear the sound of his guns, so he moved about three miles up the river. Not finding any Native Americans or any signs of them, he returned about four miles downstream and set up camp near the river. After taking a few hours to rest, they headed out in different directions to hunt. Captain Clark killed a buck, and Fields got a buck and a doe. He also caught a young bird that was almost fully feathered. The mosquitoes were just as bothersome to them as they were to us this evening; however, some hours after dark, the air gets so cold that the insects disappear. Fortunately, all the men had mosquito nets, or it would have been impossible for them to get through the exhausting days without their much-needed rest, which they couldn’t have achieved with those annoying insects without the nets. Timber is still extremely scarce along the river, but there’s more in this valley than we’ve seen since entering the mountains; the creeks feeding into the river have better supplies of timber than the river itself.
we saw a number of trout today since the river has become more shallow; also caught a fish of a white colour on the belly and sides and of a bluish cast on the back which had been accedentally wounded by a setting pole. it had a long pointed mouth which opened somewhat like the shad.
we saw several trout today since the river has become shallower; we also caught a fish with a white belly and sides and a bluish tint on the back that had been accidentally injured by a setting pole. it had a long pointed mouth that opened somewhat like a shad.
[Clark, July 21, 1805]
July 21st Sunday 1805 a fine morning our feet So brused and Cut that I deturmined to delay for the Canoes, & if possible kill Some meat by the time they arrived, all the Creeks which fall into the Missouri on the Std. Side Since entering the Mountains have extencive Valies of open Plain. the river bottoms Contain nothing larger than a Srub untill above the last Creek the Creeks & runs have timber on them generally, the hills or mountains are in Some places thickly covered with pine & Cedar &c. &c. I proceeded on about 3 miles this morning finding no fresh Indian Sign returned down the river four miles and Camped, turned out to hunt for Some meat, which if we are Suckessfull will be a Seasonable Supply for the partey assending. emence quantities of Sarvice buries, yellow, red, Purple & black Currents ripe and Superior to any I ever tasted particularly the yellow & purple kind. Choke Cheries are Plenty; Some Goose buries—The wild rose Continue the Willow more abundant no Cotton wood of the Common kind Small birds are plenty, Some Deer, Elk, Goats, and Ibex; no buffalow in the Mountains.
July 21st, Sunday, 1805 - it was a beautiful morning. Our feet were so bruised and cut that I decided to wait for the canoes and, if possible, hunt some meat by the time they arrived. All the creeks that flow into the Missouri on the south side since we entered the mountains have extensive valleys of open plains. The river bottoms contain nothing larger than shrubs until just above the last creek. The creeks and streams generally have timber along them, and in some places, the hills or mountains are thickly covered with pine, cedar, etc. I went about three miles this morning but found no fresh Indian signs, so I turned back down the river four miles and set up camp. I went out to hunt for some meat, which, if we're successful, will be a timely supply for the party ascending. There are immense quantities of serviceberries, yellow, red, purple, and black currants ripe and better than any I've ever tasted, especially the yellow and purple varieties. Chokecherries are plentiful, along with some gooseberries. The wild roses continue, and willows are more abundant; there is no common cottonwood. Small birds are plentiful, along with some deer, elk, goats, and ibex; there are no buffalo in the mountains.
Those mountains are high and a great perportion of them rocky Vallies fertile I observe on the highest pinicals of Some of the mountains to the West Snow lying in Spots Some Still further North are covered with Snow and cant be Seen from this point The Winds in those mountains are not Settled generally with the river, to day the wind blow hard from the West at the Camp. The Missouri Continus its width the Current Strong and Crouded with little Islands and Cose graveley bars; but little fine Sand the Chanel generally a Corse gravel or Soft mud. Musquetors & Knats verry troublesom. I killed a Buck, and J. Fields killed a Buck and Doe this evening. Cought a young Curlough.
The mountains are high, and a large part of them consists of rocky valleys. I notice that on the highest peaks of some of the mountains to the west, there are patches of snow. Some further north are completely covered in snow and can't be seen from here. The winds in those mountains aren't usually aligned with the river; today, the wind is blowing hard from the west at the camp. The Missouri River continues to be wide, the current is strong, and it's full of little islands and coarse gravel bars; there's not much fine sand, and the channel is usually gravel or soft mud. Mosquitoes and gnats are really annoying. I shot a buck, and J. Fields shot a buck and a doe this evening. We caught a young curlew.
[Lewis, July 22, 1805]
Monday July 22cd 1805. We set out early as usual. The river being divided into such a number of channels by both large and small Island that I found it impossible to lay it down correctly following one channel only in a canoe and therefore walked on shore took the general courses of the river and from the rising grounds took a view of the Islands and it's different channels which I laid don in conformity thereto on my chart. there being but little timber to obstruct my view I could see it's various meanders very satisfactorily. I passed though a large Island which I found a beautifull level and fertile plain about 10 feet above the surface of the water and never overflown. on this Island I met with great quantities of a smal onion about the size of a musquit ball and some even larger; they were white crisp and well flavored I geathered about half a bushel of them before the canoes arrived. I halted the party for breakfast and the men also geathered considerable quantities of those onions. it's seed had just arrived to maturity and I gathered a good quantity of it. This appears to be a valuable plant inasmuch as it produces a large quantity to the squar foot and bears with ease the rigor of this climate, and withall I think it as pleasantly flavored as any species of that root I ever tasted. I called this beatifull and fertile island after this plant Onion Island. here I passed over to the stard. shore where the country was higher and ascended the river to the entrance of a large creek which discharges itself into the Missouri on the Stard. side. it is composed of three pretty considerable creeks which unite in a beautifull and extensive vally a few miles before it discharges itself into the river. while wateing for the canoes to arrive I killed an otter which sunk to the bottom on being shot, a circumstance unusual with that anamal. the water was about 8 feet deep yet so clear that I could see it at the bottom; I swam in and obtained it by diving. I halted the party here for dinner; the canoes had taken different channels through these islands and it was sometime before they all came up. I placed my thermometer in a good shade as was my custom about 4 P.M. and after dinner set out without it and had proceeded near a mile before I recollected it I sent Sergt. Ordway back for it, he found it and brought it on. the murcury stood at 80 a. 0 this is the warmest day except one which we have experienced this summer. The Indian woman recognizes the country and assures us that this is the river on which her relations live, and that the three forks are at no great distance. this peice of information has cheered the sperits of the party who now begin to console themselves with the anticipation of shortly seeing the head of the missouri yet unknown to the civilized world. the large creek which we passed on Stard. 15 yds. we call white Earth Creek from the circumstance of the natives procuring a white paint on this crek.—Saw many gees, crams, and small birds common to the plains, also a few phesants and a species of small curlooe or plover of a brown colour which I first met with near the entrance of Smith's river but they are so shy and watchfull there is no possibility of geting a shoot at them it is a different kind from any heretofore discribed and is about the size of the yellow leged plover or jack Curlooe. both species of the willow that of the broad leaf and narrow leaf still continue, the sweet willow is very scarce. the rose bush, small honesuckle, the pulpy leafed thorn, southernwood, sage Box alder narrow leafed cottonwood, red wod, a species of sumac are all found in abundance as well as the red and black goosberries, service berries, choke cherries and the currants of four distinct colours of black, yellow, red and perple. the cherries are not yet ripe. the bear appear to feed much on the currants. late this evening we arrived at Capt. Carks camp on the stard. side of the river; we took them on board with the meat they had collected and proceeded a short distance and encamped on an Island Capt. Clark's party had killed a deer and an Elk today and ourselves one deer and an Antelope only. altho Capt C. was much fatiegued his feet yet blistered and soar he insisted on pursuing his rout in the morning nor weould he consent willingly to my releiving him at that time by taking a tour of the same kind. finding him anxious I readily consented to remain with the canoes; he ordered Frazier and Jo. & Reubin Filds to hold themselves in readiness to accompany him in the morning. Sharbono was anxious to accompany him and was accordingly permitted. the musquetoes and knats more than usually troublesome to us this evening.-
Monday, July 22, 1805. We set out early as usual. The river was split into so many channels by both large and small islands that I found it impossible to accurately map it by following just one channel in a canoe. So, I walked along the shore to take general observations of the river, and from higher ground, I looked at the islands and their various channels, which I recorded on my chart. With little timber obstructing my view, I could easily see its many bends. I passed through a large island, which I found to be a beautiful, flat, and fertile plain about 10 feet above the water's surface and never flooded. On this island, I came across a lot of small onions about the size of a mosquito ball, and some even larger; they were white, crisp, and well-flavored. I gathered about half a bushel before the canoes arrived. I stopped the group for breakfast, and the men also gathered a good amount of those onions. The seeds had just matured, and I collected a fair quantity. This seems to be a valuable plant because it produces a lot per square foot and handles this climate's harshness easily. Plus, I think it has a flavor that's as pleasant as any type of that root I've ever tasted. I named this beautiful and fertile island Onion Island. Here, I crossed over to the starboard shore, where the country was higher, and I moved up the river to where a large creek empties into the Missouri on the starboard side. It is made up of three decent-sized creeks that join in a beautiful and expansive valley a few miles before flowing into the river. While I waited for the canoes, I shot an otter, which sank to the bottom upon being shot, an unusual occurrence for that animal. The water was about 8 feet deep but so clear that I could see the bottom; I swam in and retrieved it by diving. I stopped the group here for dinner; the canoes had taken different channels through the islands, and it took some time for them to catch up. I placed my thermometer in the shade as I usually did around 4 P.M., and after dinner, I set off without it, proceeding nearly a mile before I remembered it. I sent Sgt. Ordway back for it; he found it and brought it to me. The mercury read 80 degrees. This is the warmest day we've had this summer, save for one other. The Indian woman recognized the area and assured us that this is the river where her family lives, and that the three forks are not far away. This piece of information lifted the spirits of the party, who now began to look forward to seeing the unknown head of the Missouri. The large creek we passed on the starboard side, 15 yards wide, we named White Earth Creek because the natives obtained white paint from it. We saw many geese, cranes, and small birds common to the plains, along with a few pheasants and a type of small curlew or plover that is brown; I first encountered them near the entrance of Smith's River, but they are so shy and cautious that there is no chance of getting a shot at them. It is a different kind from any previously described and is about the size of the yellow-legged plover or jack curlew. Both species of willow, the broadleaf and narrowleaf, continue to grow, while sweet willow is quite scarce. The rose bush, small honeysuckle, pulp-leafed thorn, southernwood, sage, box elder, narrow-leaf cottonwood, redwood, and a species of sumac are all found in abundance, along with red and black gooseberries, serviceberries, chokecherries, and four distinct colors of currants—black, yellow, red, and purple. The cherries aren't ripe yet. Bears seem to feed a lot on the currants. Late this evening, we arrived at Capt. Clark's camp on the starboard side of the river; we took them on board with the meat they had collected and proceeded a short distance to camp on an island. Capt. Clark's party had killed a deer and an elk today, and we had taken one deer and one antelope. Although Capt. Clark was very fatigued, with blistered and sore feet, he insisted on continuing his route in the morning and was not willing to let me take over that part of the journey. Seeing that he was anxious, I readily agreed to stay with the canoes. He ordered Frazier, Jo, and Reubin Fields to be ready to accompany him in the morning. Sharbono was eager to join him and was allowed to do so. The mosquitoes and gnats were more bothersome than usual for us this evening.
[Clark, July 22, 1805]
July 22d Monday 1805 a fine morning wind from the S. E. the last night verry cold, my blanket being Small I lay on the grass & Covered with it. I opened the bruses & blisters of my feet which caused them to be painfull dispatched all the men to hunt in the bottom for Deer, deturmined my Self to lay by & nurs my feet. haveing nothing to eat but venison and Currents, I find my Self much weaker than when I left the Canoes and more inclined to rest & repose to day. These men were not Suckcessfull in hunting killed only one Deer Capt Lewis & the Party arvd. at 4 oClock & we all proceeded on a Short distance and Camped on an Island the Musquitors verry troublesom this evening G Drewyer not knowing the place we Camped Continued on up the river. I deturmined to proceed on in pursute of the Snake Indians on tomorrow and directed Jo Rubin Fields Frasure to get ready to accompany me. Shabono, our interpreter requested to go, which was granted &c. In my absence the hunters had killed Some Deer & a Elk, one fusee found &c. &c.
July 22nd, Monday, 1805. It was a nice morning with a breeze from the southeast. Last night was really cold, and since my blanket was small, I lay on the grass and covered myself with it. I opened the bruises and blisters on my feet, which made them painful. I sent all the men to hunt for deer in the bottom and decided to rest and take care of my feet. With nothing to eat but venison and currants, I felt much weaker than when I left the canoes and more inclined to rest today. The men weren't successful in hunting; they only killed one deer. Captain Lewis and the party arrived at 4 o'clock, and we all moved a short distance and camped on an island. The mosquitoes were very bothersome this evening. G. Drewyer, not knowing where we camped, continued up the river. I decided to go after the Snake Indians tomorrow and told Jo, Rubin, Fields, and Frasure to get ready to come with me. Shabono, our interpreter, asked to go, which was granted. In my absence, the hunters had killed some deer and an elk, and one fusil was found, etc.
[Lewis, July 23, 1805]
Tuesday July 23rd 1805. Set out early as usual; Capt. Clark left us with his little party of 4 men and continued his rout on the Stard. side of the river. about 10 OCk. A M. we came up with Drewyer who had seperated from us yesterday evening and lay out all night not being able to find where we had encamped. he had killed 5 deer which we took on board and continued our rout. the river is still divided by a great number of islands, it channels sometimes seperating to the distance of 3 miles; the current very rapid with a number of riffles; the bed gravel and smooth stones; the banks low and of rich loam in the bottoms; some low bluffs of yellow and red clay with a hard red slate stone intermixed. the bottoms are wide and but scantily timbered; the underbrush very thick consisting of the narrow & broad leafed willow rose and Currant bushes principally. high plains succeeds the river bottoms and extend back on either side to the base of the mountains which are from 8 to 12 miles assunder, high, rocky, some small pine and Cedar on them and ly parallel with the river. passed a large creek on Lard. side 20 yds. wide which after meandering through a beautifull and extensive bottom for several miles nearly parallel with the river discharges itself opposite to a large cluster of islands which from their number I called the 10 islands and the creek Whitehous's Creek, after Josph. Whitehouse one of the party. saw a great abundance of the common thistles; also a number of the wild onions of which we collected a further supply. there is a species of garlic also which grows on the high lands with a flat leaf now green and in bloe but is strong tough and disagreeable. found some seed of the wild flax ripe which I preserved; this plant grows in great abundance in these bottoms. I halted rearther early for dinner today than usual in order to dry some articles which had gotten wet in several of the canoes. I ordered the canoes to hoist their small flags in order that should the indians see us they might discover that we were not Indians, nor their enemies. we made great uce of our seting poles and cords the uce of both which the river and banks favored. most of our small sockets were lost, and the stones were so smooth that the points of their poles sliped in such manner that it increased the labour of navigating the canoes very considerably, I recollected a parsel of giggs which I had brought on, and made the men each atatch one of these to the lower ends of their poles with strong wire, which answered the desired purpose. we saw Antelopes Crain gees ducks beaver and Otter. we took up four deer which Capt. Clark & party had killed and left near the river. he pursued his rout untill late in the evening and encamped on the bank of the river 25 ms. above our encampment of the last evening; he followed an old indian road which lyes along the river on the stard side Capt. saw a number of Antelopes, and one herd of Elk. also much sign of the indians but all of ancient date. I saw the bull rush and Cattail flag today.
Tuesday, July 23, 1805. We set out early as usual; Capt. Clark left us with his small group of 4 men and continued his route along the east side of the river. Around 10 AM, we caught up with Drewyer, who had separated from us the previous evening and spent the night trying to find our campsite. He had killed 5 deer, which we loaded onto the canoes and continued on our way. The river is still split by numerous islands, with channels sometimes separating by distances of 3 miles; the current is very swift, with several riffles; the riverbed consists of gravel and smooth stones; the banks are low and made of rich loam in the bottomlands; there are some low bluffs of yellow and red clay mixed with hard red slate stone. The bottoms are wide but sparsely timbered; the underbrush is quite thick, mainly consisting of narrow and broad-leafed willow, rose, and currant bushes. High plains follow the river bottoms and extend back on both sides to the base of the mountains, which are about 8 to 12 miles apart, high, rocky, with some small pine and cedar trees, running parallel to the river. We passed a large creek on the left side, 20 yards wide, which meanders through a beautiful and extensive bottomland for several miles, nearly parallel to the river, discharging opposite a large cluster of islands that I named the Ten Islands and the creek Whitehouse's Creek, after Joseph Whitehouse from our party. We saw a great abundance of common thistles; also, we collected several wild onions for later use. There’s a type of garlic that grows on the highlands with a flat green leaf and is now in bloom, but it has a strong, tough, and unpleasant taste. I found some ripe seeds of wild flax, which I saved; this plant grows abundantly in these bottoms. I stopped for dinner earlier than usual today to dry some items that had gotten wet in the canoes. I instructed the canoes to raise their small flags so that if any Native Americans saw us, they would recognize that we were not Natives and not their enemies. We made great use of our setting poles and ropes, both of which the river and banks supported. Most of our small sockets were lost, and the stones were so smooth that the tips of our poles slipped, which made navigating the canoes much more labor-intensive. I remembered some attachments I had brought along and had each man attach one to the lower ends of their poles with strong wire, which worked well. We spotted antelopes, crane, geese, ducks, beavers, and otters. We picked up four deer that Capt. Clark and his group had killed and left near the river. He continued his route until late in the evening and set up camp on the riverbank, 25 miles above our last campsite. He followed an old Native American path that runs along the river on the east side. Capt. saw a number of antelopes and one herd of elk, along with many signs of Native Americans, but all were from long ago. I spotted bullrush and cattail flags today.
I saw a black snake today about two feet long the Belly of which was as black as any other part or as jet itself. it had 128 scuta on the belley 63 on the tail.
I saw a black snake today that was about two feet long. Its belly was as black as any other part or as jet itself. It had 128 scales on its belly and 63 on its tail.
[Clark, July 23, 1805]
July 23rd Tuesday 1805 a fair morning wind from the South. I Set out by land at 6 miles overtook G Drewyer who had killed a Deer. we killed in the Same bottom 4 deer & a antelope & left them on the river bank for the Canoes proceeded on an Indian roade through a wider Vallie which the Missouri Passes about 25 miles & Camped on the bank of the river, High mountains on either Side of the Vallie Containing Scattering Pine & Cedar Some Small Cotton willow willow &c. on the Islands & bank of the river I Saw no fresh Sign of Indians to day Great number of antelopes Some Deer & a large Gangue of Elk
July 23rd, Tuesday, 1805 - it was a nice morning with a wind coming from the south. I set out on land at 6 miles and caught up with G. Drewyer, who had just killed a deer. We also killed 4 deer and an antelope in the same area and left them on the riverbank for the canoes. We continued on an Indian trail through a wider valley that the Missouri passes through, about 25 miles long, and camped by the riverbank. There were high mountains on either side of the valley, dotted with pine and cedar trees, as well as some small cottonwoods and willows on the islands and the riverbank. I didn't see any fresh signs of Indians today, but there were many antelopes, some deer, and a large herd of elk.
[Lewis, July 24, 1805]
Wednesday July 24th 1805. Set out at sunrise; the current very strong; passed a remarkable bluff of a crimson coloured earth on Stard. intermixed with Stratas of black and brick red slate. the valley through which the river passed today is much as that of yesterday nor is there any difference in the appearance of the mountains, they still continue high and seem to rise in some places like an amphatheater one rang above another as they receede from the river untill the most distant and lofty have their tops clad with snow. the adjacent mountains commonly rise so high as to conceal the more distant and lofty mountains from our view. I fear every day that we shall meet with some considerable falls or obstruction in the river notwithstanding the information of the Indian woman to the contrary who assures us that the river continues much as we see it. I can scarcely form an idea of a river runing to great extent through such a rough mountainous country without having it's stream intercepted by some difficult and gangerous rappids or falls. we daily pass a great number of small rappids or riffles which decend one to or 3 feet in 150 yards but they are rarely incommoded with fixed or standing rocks and altho strong rappid water are nevertheless quite practicable & by no means dangerous. we saw many beaver and some otter today; the former dam up the small channels of the river between the islands and compell the river in these parts to make other channels; which as soon as it has effected that which was stoped by the beaver becomes dry and is filled up with mud sand gravel and drift wood. the beaver is then compelled to seek another spot for his habitation wher he again erects his dam. thus the river in many places among the clusters of islands is constantly changing the direction of such sluices as the beaver are capable of stoping or of 20 yds. in width. this anamal in that way I beleive to be very instrumental in adding to the number of islands with which we find the river crouded. we killed one deer today and found a goat or Antelope which had been left by Capt. Clark. we saw a large bear but could not get a shoot at him. we also saw a great number of Crams & Antelopes, some gees and a few red-headed ducks the small bird of the plains and curloos still abundant. we observed a great number of snakes about the water of a brown uniform colour, some black, and others speckled on the abdomen and striped with black and brownish yellow on the back and sides. the first of these is the largest being about 4 feet long, the second is of that kind mentioned yesterday, and the last is much like the garter snake of our country and about it's size. none of these species are poisonous I examined their teeth and fund them innosent. they all appear to be fond of the water, to which they fly for shelter immediately on being pursued.—we saw much sign of Elk but met with none of them. from the appearance of bones and excrement of old date the buffaloe sometimes straggle into this valley; but there is no fresh sighn of them and I begin think that our harrvest of white puddings is at an end, at least untill our return to the buffaloe country. our trio of pests still invade and obstruct us on all occasions, these are the Musquetoes eye knats and prickley pears, equal to any three curses that ever poor Egypt laiboured under, except the Mahometant yoke. the men complain of being much fortiegued, their labour is excessively great. I occasionly encourage them by assisting in the labour of navigating the canoes, and have learned to push a tolerable good pole in their fraize. This morning Capt. Clark set out early and pursued the Indian road whih took him up a creek some miles abot 10 A.M. he discovered a horse about six miles distant on his left, he changed his rout towards the horse, on approaching him he found the horse in fine order but so wild he could not get within less than several hundred paces of him. he still saw much indian sign but none of recent date. from this horse he directed his course obliquely to the river where on his arrival he killed a deer and dined. in this wide valley where he met with the horse he passed five handsome streams, one of which only had timber another some willows and much stoped by the beaver. after dinner he continued his rout along the river upwards and encamped having traveled about 30 mes.
Wednesday, July 24, 1805. We set out at sunrise; the current is very strong. We passed a notable bluff of crimson-colored earth on the starboard side, mixed with layers of black and brick-red slate. The valley through which the river flows today is much like yesterday’s; there’s no difference in the mountains’ appearance, which remain high and rise like an amphitheater, stacked one above another as they recede from the river until the most distant and high peaks are capped with snow. The nearby mountains are often so tall that they hide the more distant peaks from our view. Every day, I worry we might encounter significant drops or obstructions in the river, despite what the Indian woman told us, assuring us the river continues as we see it. I can barely picture a river running extensively through such a rugged, mountainous area without being interrupted by some challenging and dangerous rapids or falls. Each day we pass a lot of small rapids or riffles that drop one to three feet over 150 yards, but they are rarely obstructed by fixed or standing rocks and although the water is strong, it’s still quite passable and not dangerous. Today, we saw many beavers and some otters; the beavers dam up the smaller channels of the river between the islands, forcing the river to carve out new paths. Once a channel is blocked by the beavers, it dries up and fills with mud, sand, gravel, and driftwood. The beavers then have to find another spot to build their dam. Thus, in many spots among the islands, the river is constantly changing the direction of the channels that the beavers are capable of damming, which can be up to 20 yards wide. This animal, in this way, seems to play a significant role in increasing the number of islands crowded along the river. We killed one deer today and found a goat or antelope that was left by Capt. Clark. We saw a large bear but couldn’t get a shot at him. We also spotted numerous cranes and antelopes, some geese, and a few red-headed ducks; the small bird of the plains and curlews are still abundant. We noticed a lot of snakes near the water; they are uniformly brown, some black, and others have speckles on their bellies and stripes of black and brownish yellow on their backs and sides. The first type is the largest, about four feet long; the second is the one mentioned yesterday, and the last resembles the garter snake from our country and is about the same size. None of these species is poisonous; I examined their teeth and found them innocent. They all seem to enjoy the water and quickly seek shelter there when pursued. We saw plenty of signs of elk but didn’t encounter any. Judging by the old bones and droppings, buffalo sometimes wander into this valley, but there are no fresh signs, and I’m beginning to think our hunt for white puddings is over at least until we return to the buffalo country. Our trio of pests continues to bother and hinder us at every turn: the mosquitoes, eye gnats, and prickly pears are as bad as any three curses that poor Egypt ever endured, except for the yoke of the Mahometans. The men complain of being very fatigued; their labor is extremely demanding. I occasionally help them by assisting in navigating the canoes and have learned to handle a pole fairly well. This morning, Capt. Clark set out early, following the Indian path that led him up a creek some miles away. Around 10 A.M., he saw a horse about six miles to his left and changed his route toward it. As he approached, he found the horse in good condition but so wild that he couldn’t get within several hundred paces. He still noticed many signs of Indian presence, but none were recent. From the horse, he angled his course towards the river, where he arrived, killed a deer, and dined. In this wide valley where he found the horse, he crossed five pretty streams; only one had timber, another had some willows, and much was obstructed by beavers. After lunch, he continued upstream along the river and set up camp after traveling about 30 miles.
[Clark, July 24, 1805]
July 24th Wednesday 1805 a fine day wind from the N W. I proceeded on up a Creek on the direction of the Indian road at 10 oClock discovered a horse 6 miles to my left towards the river as I approached the horse found him fat and verry wild we could not get near him, we changed our Direction to the river for water haveing previously Crossed 5 handsom Streams in one Vallie one only had any timber on it one other Willows only & a number of beaver Dams. when I Struck the river turned down to kill a Deer which we dined on & proceeded on up the river a fiew miles an Campd. on the river. the river much like it was yesterday. the mountains on either Side appear like the hills had fallen half down & turned Side upwards the bottoms narrow and no timber a fiew bushes only.
July 24th, Wednesday, 1805—a nice day with a northwest wind. I continued up a creek following the Indian path. At 10 o'clock, I spotted a horse about 6 miles to my left by the river. As I got closer, I found the horse to be fat and very wild, and we couldn't approach him. We changed our direction toward the river for water, having previously crossed five lovely streams in one valley—only one had any timber, another had willows, and there were several beaver dams. When I hit the river, I headed downstream to hunt a deer, which we dined on, and then moved a few miles up the river to camp. The river looked much like it did yesterday. The mountains on either side appeared as if the hills had collapsed halfway down and were turned sideways; the bottoms were narrow and had no timber, just a few bushes.
[Lewis, July 25, 1805]
Thursday July 25th 1805. Set out at an early hour and proceeded on tolerably well the water still strong and some riffles as yesterday. the country continues much the same as the two preceeding days. in the forenoon we saw a large brown bear on an island but he retreated immediately to the main shore and ran off before we could get in reach of him. they appear to be more shy here than on the Missouri below the mountains. we saw some antelopes of which we killed one. these anamals appear now to have collected again is small herds several females with their young and one or two males compose the herd usually. some males are yet soletary or two perhaps together scattered over the plains which they seen invariably to prefer to the woodlands. if they happen accedentaly in the woodlands and are allarmed they run immediately to the plains, seeming to plaise a just confidence in their superior fleetness and bottom. we killed a couple of young gees which are very abundant and fine; but as they are but small game to subsist a party on of our strength I have forbid the men shooting at them as it waists a considerable quantity of amunition and delays our progress. we passed Capt. Clark's encampment of the 23rd inst. the face of the country & anamal and vegatable productions were the same as yesterday, untill late in the evening, when the valley appeared to termineate and the river was again hemned in on both sides with high caiggy and rocky clifts. soon after entering these hills or low mountains we passed a number of fine bold springs which burst out underneath the Lard. clifts near the edge of the water; they wer very cold and freestone water. we passed a large Crk. today in the plain country, 25 yds. wide, which discharges itself on the Stard. side; it is composed of five streams which unite in the plain at no great distance from the river and have their souces in the Mts. this stream we called Gass's Creek. after Sergt. Patric Gass one of our party.—two rapids near the large spring we passed this evening were the worst we have seen since that we passed on entering the rocky Mountain; they were obstructed with sharp pointed rocks, ranges of which extended quite across the river. the clifts are formed of a lighter coloured stone than those below I obseve some limestone also in the bed of the river which seem to have been brought down by the current as they are generally small and woarn smooth.—This morning Capt. Clark set out early and at the distance of a few miles arrived at the three forks of the Missouri, here he found the plains recently birnt on the stard. side, and the track of a horse which appeared to have passed only about four or five days. after taking breakfast of some meat which they had brought with them, examined the rivers, and written me a note informing me of his intended rout, he continued on up the North fork, which though not larger than the middle fork, boar more to the West, and of course more in the direction we were anxious to pursue. he ascended this stream about 25 miles on Stard. side, and encamped, much fatiegued, his feet blistered and wounded with the prickley pear thorns. Charbono gave out, one of his ankles failed him and he was unable to proceede any further.—I observed that the rocks which form the clifts on this part of the river appear as if they had been undermined by the river and by their weight had seperated from the parent hill and tumbled on their sides, the stratas of rock of which they are composed lying with their edges up; others not seperated seem obliquely depressed on the side next the river as if they had sunk down to fill the cavity which had been formed by the washing and wearing of the river. I have observed a red as well as a yellow species of goosberry which grows on the rocky Clifts in open places of a swetish pine like flavor, first observed in the neighbourhood of the falls; at least the yellow species was first observed there. the red differs from it in no particular except it's colour and size being somewhat larger; it is a very indifferent fruit, but as they form a variety of the native fruits of this country I preserved some of their seeds. musquetoes and knats troublesome as usual.
Thursday, July 25, 1805. We set out early and moved along pretty well; the water is still strong with some riffles like yesterday. The landscape is much the same as the past two days. In the morning, we spotted a large brown bear on an island, but it quickly retreated to the main shore and ran off before we could reach it. They seem to be more skittish here than on the Missouri below the mountains. We saw some antelopes and managed to kill one. These animals appear to have regrouped into small herds, usually consisting of several females with their young and one or two males. Some males are still solitary or found in pairs scattered across the plains, which they seem to prefer over the woodlands. If they accidentally venture into the woods and feel threatened, they immediately run back to the plains, as if trusting completely in their speed and endurance. We killed a couple of young geese, which are quite plentiful and in good condition; however, since they’re not enough to feed a group our size, I’ve told the men to stop shooting at them, as it wastes a lot of ammunition and slows us down. We passed Captain Clark's camp from the 23rd. The terrain and the animal and plant life were the same as yesterday, until late in the evening, when the valley seemed to end, and the river was again flanked by high, steep, and rocky cliffs. Soon after entering these hills or low mountains, we came across several impressive springs bursting out from the cliffs near the water's edge; they were very cold and had fresh water. We crossed a large creek today in the flat country, 25 yards wide, which flows into the river on the starboard side; it consists of five streams merging in the plains not far from the river and originating in the mountains. We named this stream Gass's Creek after Sergeant Patrick Gass, one of our party. The two rapids near the large spring we passed this evening were the worst we’ve encountered since we entered the Rocky Mountains; they were filled with sharp-pointed rocks that spanned the river. The cliffs in this area are made of lighter-colored stone than those below, and I also observed some limestone in the riverbed, likely washed down by the current as they are generally small and worn smooth. This morning, Captain Clark left early and, after a few miles, reached the three forks of the Missouri; there, he found plains that had recently burned on the starboard side, along with the tracks of a horse that seemed to have passed only about four or five days ago. After having breakfast with some meat they brought, he examined the rivers and wrote me a note about his intended route, then continued up the North Fork, which, while not larger than the Middle Fork, headed more westward, going in the direction we wanted to follow. He traveled this stream about 25 miles on the starboard side and camped, feeling very fatigued, with his feet blistered and sore from the prickly pear thorns. Charbono was exhausted; one of his ankles gave out, and he couldn’t continue. I noticed that the rocks forming the cliffs along this part of the river looked like they had been undermined by the water; their weight seemed to have caused them to separate from the parent hill and tumble over, with the layers of rock lying on their edges. Other rocks that hadn’t separated seem to have been depressed on the river side as if they sank down to fill the gaps created by the river’s erosion. I also observed both red and yellow varieties of gooseberry growing on the rocky cliffs in open areas, with a sweet, pine-like flavor; the yellow variety was first noticed near the falls. The red version differs only in color and is slightly larger; the fruit is quite average, but as they add to the variety of native fruits in this area, I preserved some seeds. Mosquitoes and gnats are as bothersome as usual.
[Clark, July 25, 1805]
July 25th Thursday 1805 a fine morning we proceeded on a fiew miles to the three forks of the Missouri those three forks are nearly of a Size, the North fork appears to have the most water and must be Considered as the one best calculated for us to assend middle fork is quit as large about 90 yds. wide. The South fork is about 70 yds wide & falls in about 400 yards below the midle fork. those forks appear to be verry rapid & Contain Some timber in their bottoms which is verry extincive,—on the North Side the Indians have latterly Set the Praries on fire, the Cause I can't account for. I Saw one horse track going up the river about four or 5 days past. after Brackfast (which we made on the ribs of a Buck killed yesterday), I wrote a note informing Capt Lewis the rout I intended to take, and proeeded on up the main North fork thro a vallie, the day verry hot about 6 or 8 miles up the North fork a Small rapid river falls in on the Lard Side which affords a great Deel of water and appears to head in the Snow mountains to the S W. this little river falls into the Missouri by three mouthes, haveing Seperated after it arrives in the river Bottoms, and Contains as also all the water courses in this quarter emence number of Beaver & orter maney thousand enhabit the river & Creeks near the 3 forks (Pholosiphie's River)—We Campd on the Same Side we assended Starboard 20 miles on a direct line up the N. fork. Shabono our intrepreter nearly tired one of his ankles falling him—The bottoms are extencive and tolerable land Covered with tall grass & prickley pears The hills & mountains are high Steep & rockey. The river verry much divided by Islands Some Elk Bear & Deer and Some Small timber on the Islands. Great quantities of Currents, red, black, yellow, Purple, also Mountain Currents which grow on the Sides of Clifts; inferior in taste to the others haveing Sweet pineish flaver and are red & yellow, Choke Cheries, Boin roche, and the red buries also abound—musquitors verry trouble Som untill the mountain breeze Sprung up which was a little after night.
July 25th, Thursday, 1805. It was a nice morning as we traveled a few miles to the three forks of the Missouri. The three forks are nearly the same size; the North fork seems to have the most water and is the best route for us to take. The middle fork is just as big, about 90 yards wide. The South fork is about 70 yards wide and flows in about 400 yards below the middle fork. These forks are quite fast-flowing and have some extensive timber in their bottoms. On the north side, the Indians recently set the prairies on fire, though I can’t explain why. I saw a horse track going up the river from about four or five days ago. After breakfast (which we had on the ribs of a buck we killed yesterday), I wrote a note to Captain Lewis about the route I planned to take and continued up the main North fork through a valley. It was very hot. About 6 or 8 miles up the North fork, a small rapid river flows in from the left side, providing a lot of water and probably coming from the Snow Mountains to the southwest. This little river enters the Missouri by three mouths, having split after reaching the river bottoms, and along with all the watercourses in this area, it has a huge number of beavers and otters; many thousands inhabit the river and creeks near the three forks (Philosopher's River). We camped on the same side we ascended, starboard, 20 miles in a straight line up the North fork. Shabono, our interpreter, almost twisted one of his ankles. The bottoms are extensive and decent land covered with tall grass and prickly pears. The hills and mountains are high, steep, and rocky. The river is heavily divided by islands, with some elk, bear, and deer, and a bit of small timber on the islands. There are large quantities of currants—red, black, yellow, purple—as well as mountain currants that grow on the sides of cliffs; they taste inferior to the others, having a sweet, pine-like flavor and are red and yellow. Chokecherries, bone raspberry, and red berries are also abundant. Mosquitoes were very troublesome until the mountain breeze picked up a little after nightfall.
[Lewis, July 26, 1805]
Friday July 26th 1805. Set out early this morning as usual current strong with frequent riffles; employ the cord and seting poles. the oars scarcely ever being used except to pass the river in order to take advantage of the shore and cur-rent. at the distance of 33/4 m. passed the entrance of a large Creek 15 yds. wide which discharges itself on Lard. near the center of a Lard. bend it is a bold runing stream this we called Howard's Creek after Thomas P. Howard one of our party. at the distance of one mile further we passed the entrance of a small run which falls in just above a rocky clift on Lard. here the hills or reather mountains again recede from the river and the valley again widens to the extent of several miles with wide and fertile bottom lands. covered with grass and in many places a fine terf of greenswoard. the high lands are thin meagre soil covered with dry low sedge and a species of grass also dry the seeds of which are armed with a long twisted hard beard at the upper extremity while the lower point is a sharp subulate firm point beset at it's base with little stiff bristles standing with their points in a contrary direction to the subulate point to which they answer as a barb and serve also to pres it forward when onece entered a small distance. these barbed seed penetrate our mockersons and leather legings and give us great pain untill they are removed. my poor dog suffers with them excessively, he is constantly hinting and scratching himself as if in a rack of pain. the prickly pear also grow here as abundantly as usual. there is another species of the prickly pear of a globular form, composed of an assemblage of little conic leaves springing from a common root to which their small points are attached as a common center and the base of the cone forms the apex of the leaf which is garnished with a circular range of sharp thorns quite as stif and more keen than the more common species with the flat leaf, like the Cockeneal plant. on entering this open valley I saw the snowclad tops of distant mountains before us. the timber and mountains much as heretofore. saw a number of beaver today and some otter, killed one of the former, also 4 deer; found a deer's skin which had been left by Capt. C. with a note informing me of his having met with a horse but had seen no fresh appearance of the Indians. the river in the valley is from 2 to 250 yds. wide and crouded with Islands, in some places it is 3/4 of a mile wide including islands. were it passed the hills it was from 150 to 200 yds. the banks are still low but never overflow. one of the men brought me an indian bow which he found, it was made of cedar and about 2 F. 9 Inh. in length. it had nothing remarkable in it's form being much such as is used by the Mandans Minetares &c. This morning Capt. Clark left Sharbono and Joseph Fields at the camp of last evening and proceeded up the river about 12 miles to the top of a mountain from whence he had an extensive view of the valley of the river upwards and of a large creek which flowed into it on Std. side. not meeting with any fresh appearance of Indians he determined to return and examine the middle fork of the missouri and meet me by the time he expected me to arrive at the forks. he returned down the mountain by the way of an old Indian road which led through a deep hollow of the mountain facing the south the day being warm and the road unshaded by timber he suffered excessively with heat and the want of water, at length he arrived at a very cold spring, at which he took the precaution of weting his feet head and hands before drank but notwithstanding this precaution he soon felt the effects of the water. he felt himself very unwell shortly after but continued his march rejoined Sharbono and Fields where the party eat of a fawn which Jo. Fields had killed in their absence Capt. C. was so unwell that he had no inclination to eat. after a short respite he resumed his march pass the North fork at a large island; here Charbono was very near being swept away by the current and cannot swim, Capt. C however risqued him and saved his life. Capt. C. continued his march to a small river which falls into the North fork some miles above the junction of the 3 forks it being the distance of about four miles from his camp of last evening here finding himself still more unwell he determined to encamp. they killed two brown or Grisley bear this evening on the island where they passed the N. fork of the Missouri. this stream is much divided by islands and it's current rapid and much as that of the missouri where we are and is navigable.-
Friday, July 26th, 1805. We set out early this morning as usual, with a strong current and lots of riffles; we used the cord and setting poles since we rarely used the oars except to cross the river for the sake of the shore and current. After traveling 3.75 miles, we passed the entrance of a large creek, 15 yards wide, flowing into the left bank near the center of a bend. It was a bold, fast-moving stream, which we named Howard's Creek after Thomas P. Howard, one of our party. One mile further, we passed the entrance of a small stream that flows in just above a rocky cliff on the left bank. Here, the hills, or rather mountains, recede from the river again, and the valley widens significantly, extending several miles with broad and fertile bottom lands, covered in grass and, in many places, a fine turf of green sward. The highlands have thin, poor soil covered with dry, short sedge and a type of grass that is also dry. The seeds of this grass have a long, twisted, hard beard at the top, while the lower tip is a sharp, firm point, surrounded at the base by tiny stiff bristles, pointing in the opposite direction to the sharp tip, functioning like a barb to push them forward once they penetrate something. These barbed seeds get stuck in our moccasins and leather leggings, causing us significant pain until we manage to remove them. My poor dog suffers a lot from them; he keeps hinting and scratching himself as if he's in agony. The prickly pear grows here as abundantly as ever. There's another species of prickly pear that's globular, made up of a collection of small conical leaves sprouting from a common root, with their tiny points attached like a common center. The base of the cone forms the apex of the leaf, which is surrounded by a circular arrangement of sharp thorns, just as stiff and sharper than the more common flat-leaf species, like the Cochineal plant. Upon entering this open valley, I could see the snow-covered peaks of distant mountains in front of us. The timber and mountains looked much the same as before. I spotted several beavers and a few otters today, killed one beaver, and also four deer. I found a deer's skin left by Capt. C. with a note informing me that he had encountered a horse but had seen no recent signs of Indians. In the valley, the river measures from 200 to 250 yards wide and is filled with islands; in some places, it's 3/4 of a mile wide, including the islands. Where it passes the hills, it is between 150 to 200 yards wide. The banks remain low but never overflow. One of the men brought me an Indian bow he found; it was made of cedar and about 2 feet 9 inches long. There was nothing remarkable about its shape, resembling the ones used by the Mandans, Minetares, etc. This morning, Capt. Clark left Sharbono and Joseph Fields at the campsite from the previous evening and traveled up the river about 12 miles to the top of a mountain, where he had a wide view of the river valley above and a large creek flowing into it on the south side. Not spotting any recent signs of Indians, he decided to return and explore the middle fork of the Missouri, aiming to meet up with me as I arrived at the forks. He came back down the mountain along an old Indian trail that led through a deep hollow on the south-facing slope. It was a hot day, and the road was unshaded, making him suffer a lot from the heat and the lack of water. Eventually, he reached a very cold spring, and he took the precaution of wetting his feet, head, and hands before drinking; however, despite this precaution, he soon felt the effects of the water. He felt quite unwell shortly after but kept moving and met up with Sharbono and Fields, where the group had some fawn that Jo. Fields had killed during their absence. Capt. C. felt so unwell that he had no desire to eat. After a short break, he continued his march past the north fork at a large island. Here, Charbono nearly got swept away by the current, and he couldn’t swim, but Capt. C. risked saving him and succeeded. Capt. C. continued on to a small river that flows into the north fork several miles above the junction of the three forks, about four miles from his previous campsite. Realizing he was feeling worse, he decided to set up camp. They killed two brown or grizzly bears that evening on the island where they crossed the north fork of the Missouri. This stream is heavily divided by islands, has a rapid current, and is similar to the Missouri where we are and is navigable.
[Clark, July 26, 1805]
July 26th Friday 1805 I deturmined to leave Shabono & one man who had Sore feet to rest & proceed on with the other two to the top of a mountain 12 miles distant west and from thence view the river & vallies a head, we with great dificuelty & much fatigue reached the top at 11 oClock from the top of this mountain I could see the Course of the North fork about 10 miles meandering through a Vallie but Could discover no Indians or Sign which was fresh. I could also See Some distance up the Small River below, and also the middle fork after Satisfying my Self returned to the two men by an old Indian parth, on this parth & in the Mountain we Came to a Spring of excessive Cold water, which we drank reather freely of as we were almost famished; not with Standing the precautions of wetting my face, hands, & feet, I Soon felt the effects of the water. We Contind. thro a Deep Vallie without a Tree to Shade us Scorching with heat to the men who had killed a pore Deer, I was fatigued my feet with Several blisters & Stuck with prickley pears. I eate but verry little deturmined to Cross to the middle fork and examine that. we Crossed the Missouri which was divided by a verry large Island, the first Part was knee deep, the other waste deep & verry rapid—I felt my Self verry unwell & took up Camp on the little river 3 miles above its mouth & near the place it falls into the bottom a fiew Drops of rain this evening
July 26th, Friday, 1805. I decided to leave Shabono with one man who had sore feet to rest and continue with the other two to the top of a mountain 12 miles west. From there, we could look over the river and the valleys ahead. With great difficulty and a lot of fatigue, we reached the top by 11 o'clock. From this mountain, I could see the course of the North Fork meandering through the valley for about 10 miles, but I couldn't spot any signs of fresh Indian activity. I also saw some distance up the small river below, as well as the middle fork. After satisfying my curiosity, I returned to the two men by an old Indian path. Along this path and in the mountains, we came across a spring of very cold water, which we drank quite a bit of since we were nearly famished. Despite my efforts to wet my face, hands, and feet, I soon felt the effects of the cold water. We continued through a deep valley with no trees to shade us, scorching in the heat. The men had killed a poor deer, and I was exhausted with blisters on my feet from walking and stuck by prickly pears. I ate very little, determined to cross to the middle fork and examine that. We crossed the Missouri, which was split by a very large island; the first part was knee-deep, the other was waste-deep and very fast-flowing. I felt quite unwell and set up camp by the little river, three miles above its mouth and near where it flows into the bottom. A few drops of rain fell this evening.
we killed 2 bear which was imediately in our way. both pore emence number of Beaver and orter in this little river which forks in the bottom
we killed 2 bears that were directly in our path. both had a large number of beavers and otters in this small river that splits at the bottom.
[Lewis, July 27, 1805]
Saturday July 27th 1805. We set out at an early hour and proceeded on but slowly the current still so rapid that the men are in a continual state of their utmost exertion to get on, and they begin to weaken fast from this continual state of violent exertion. at the distance of 13/4 miles the river was again closely hemned in by high Clifts of a solid limestone rock which appear to have tumbled or sunk in the same manner of those discribed yesterday. the limestone appears to be of an excellent quality of deep blue colour when fractured and of a light led colour where exposed to the weather. it appears to be of a very fine grain the fracture like that of marble. we saw a great number of the bighorn on those Clifts. at the distance of 33/4 ms. further we arrived at 9 A.M. at the junction of the S. E. fork of the Missouri and the country opens suddonly to extensive and beatifull plains and meadows which appear to be surrounded in every direction with distant and lofty mountains; supposing this to be the three forks of the Missouri I halted the party on the Lard. shore for breakfast and walked up the S. E. fork about 1/2 a mile and ascended the point of a high limestone clift from whence I commanded a most perfect view of the neighbouring country. From this point I could see the S. E. fork about 7 miles. it is rapid and about 70 yards wide. throughout the distance I saw it, it passes through a smoth extensive green meadow of fine grass in it's course meandering in several streams the largest of which passes near the Lard. hills, of which, the one I stand on is the extremity in this direction. a high wide and extensive plain succeeds the meadow and extends back several miles from the river on the Stard. sade and with the range of mountains up the Lard. side of the middle fork. a large spring arrises in this meadow about 1/4 of a mile from the S. E. fork into which it discharges itself on the Stard. side about 400 paces above me. from E to S. between the S. E. and middle forks a distant range of lofty mountains rose their snow-clad tops above the irregular and broken mountains which lie adjacent to this beautifull spot. the extreme point to which I could see the S. E. fork boar S. 65° E. distant 7 ms. as before observed. between the middle and S. E. forks near their junctions with the S. W. fork there is a handsom site for a fortification it consists of a limestone rock of an oblong form; it's sides perpendicular and about 25 ft high except at the extremity towards the middle fork where it ascends gradually and like the top is covered with a fine terf of greenswoard. the top is level and contains about 2 Acres. the rock rises from the level plain as if it had been designed for some such purpose. the extream point to which I can see the bottom and meandering of the Middle fork bears S. 15 E distant about 14 miles. here it turns to the right around a point of a high plain and disappears to my view. it's bottoms are several miles in width and like that of the S. E. fork form one smoth and beautifull green meadow. it is also divided into several streams. betwen this and the S. W. fork there is an extensive plain which appears to extend up both those rivers many miles and back to the mountains. the extreme point to which I can see the S. W. fork bears S. 30 W. distant about 12 miles. this stream passes through a similar country with the other two and is more divided and serpentine in it's course than either of the others; it also possesses abundanly more timber in it's bottoms. the timber here consists of the narrowleafed cottonwood almost entirely. but little box alder or sweet willow the underbrush thick and as heretofore discribed in the quarter of the missouri. a range of high mountains at a considerable distance appear to reach from South to West and are partially covered with snow the country to the right of the S. W. fork like that to the left of the S. E. fork is high broken and mountainous as is that also down the missouri behind us, through which, these three rivers after assembling their united force at this point seem to have forced a passage these bottom lands tho not more than 8 or 9 feet above the water seem never to overflow. after making a draught of the connection and meanders of these streams I decended the hill and returned to the party, took breakfast and ascended the S. W. fork 13/4 miles and encamped at a Lard. bend in a handsome level smooth plain just below a bayou, having passed the entrance of the middle fork at 1/2 a mile. here I encamped to wait the return of Capt. Clark and to give the men a little rest which seemed absolutely necessary to them. at the junction of the S. W. and Middle forks I found a note which had been left by Capt. Clark informing me of his intended rout, and that he would rejoin me at this place provided he did not fall in with any fresh sighn of Indians, in which case he intended to pursue untill he over took them calculating on my taking the S. W. fork, which I most certainly prefer as it's direction is much more promising than any other. beleiving this to be an essential point in the geography of this western part of the Continent I determined to remain at all events untill I obtained the necessary data for fixing it's latitude Longitude &c. after fixing my camp I had the canoes all unloaded and the baggage stoed away and securely covered on shore, and then permitted several men to hunt. I walked down to the middle fork and examined and compared it with the S. W. fork but could not satisfy myself which was the largest stream of the two, in fact they appeared as if they had been cast in the same mould there being no difference in character or size, therefore to call either of these streams the Missouri would be giving it a preference wich it's size dose not warrant as it is not larger then the other. they are each 90 yds. wide. in these meadows I saw a number of the duckanmallad with their young which are now nearly grown. Currants of every species as well as goosberries are found here in great abundance and perfection. a large black goosberry which grows to the hight of five or six feet is also found here. this is the growth of the bottom lands and is found also near the little rivulets which make down from the hills and mountains it puts up many stems from the same root, some of which are partialy branched and all reclining. the berry is attatched seperately by a long peduncle to the stem from which they hang pendant underneath. the berry is of an ovate form smooth as large as the common garden goosberry when arrived at maturity and is as black as jet, tho the pulp is of a cimson colour. this fruit is extreemly asced. the leaf resembles the common goosberry in form but is reather larger and somewhat proportioned to the superior size of it's stem when compared with the common goosberry. the stem is covered with very sharp thorns or bryers. below the tree forks as we passed this morning I observed many collections of the mud nests of the small martin attatched to the smooth face of the limestone rocks sheltered by projections of the same rock above. Our hunters returned this evening with 6 deer 3 Otter and a musk rat. they informed me that they had seen great numbers of Antelopes, and much sign of beaver Otter deer Elk, &c. at 3 P.M. Capt Clark arrived very sick with a high fever on him and much fatiegued and exhausted. he informed me that he was very sick all last night had a high fever and frequent chills & constant aking pains in all his mustles. this morning notwithstanding his indisposition he pursued his intended rout to the middle fork about 8 miles and finding no recent sign of Indians rested about an hour and came down the middle fork to this place. Capt. C. thought himself somewhat bilious and had not had a passage for several days; I prevailed on him to take a doze of Rushes pills, which I have always found sovereign in such cases and to bath his feet in warm water and rest himself. Capt. C's indisposition was a further inducement for my remaining here a couple of days; I therefore informed the men of my intention, and they put their deer skins in the water in order to prepare them for dressing tomorrow. we begin to feel considerable anxiety with rispect to the Snake Indians. if we do not find them or some other nation who have horses I fear the successfull issue of our voyage will be very doubtfull or at all events much more difficult in it's accomplishment. we are now several hundred miles within the bosom of this wild and mountanous country, where game may rationally be expected shortly to become scarce and subsistence precarious without any information with rispect to the country not knowing how far these mountains continue, or wher to direct our course to pass them to advantage or intersept a navigable branch of the Columbia, or even were we on such an one the probability is that we should not find any timber within these mountains large enough for canoes if we judge from the portion of them through which we have passed. however I still hope for the best, and intend taking a tramp myself in a few days to find these yellow gentlemen if possible. my two principal consolations are that from our present position it is impossible that the S. W. fork can head with the waters of any other river but the Columbia, and that if any Indians can subsist in the form of a nation in these mountains with the means they have of acquiring food we can also subsist. Capt. C. informed me that there is a part of this bottom on the West side of the Middle fork near the plain, which appears to overflow occasionally and is stony.
Saturday, July 27, 1805. We set out early and made slow progress as the current was still so strong that the crew worked hard just to keep moving, and they were starting to tire quickly from this constant exertion. After covering 1.75 miles, the river was again tightly squeezed in by tall cliffs of solid limestone that seemed to have collapsed or sunk in a similar way as those described yesterday. The limestone looked to be of excellent quality, exhibiting a deep blue color when broken and a light lead color where exposed to the elements. It appeared to have a fine grain with a fracture resembling that of marble. We spotted a large number of bighorn sheep on those cliffs. After another 3.75 miles, we arrived at 9 A.M. at the junction of the southeast fork of the Missouri, where the landscape suddenly opened up to vast and beautiful plains and meadows surrounded by distant, towering mountains. Believing this to be the three forks of the Missouri, I stopped the group on the left bank for breakfast and walked up the southeast fork for about half a mile, climbing to the top of a high limestone cliff from where I had a perfect view of the surrounding area. From this point, I could see the southeast fork stretching about seven miles; it was fast-flowing and around 70 yards wide. During the distance I could see, it flowed through a smooth, extensive green meadow of fine grass, meandering into several streams, the largest of which ran near the left-hand hills, of which the cliff I was standing on was the extremity in that direction. A high, wide, and extensive plain followed the meadow and extended miles back from the river on the right-hand side, along with a range of mountains rising on the left side of the middle fork. A large spring emerged in this meadow about a quarter of a mile from the southeast fork, emptying into it on the right side about 400 paces above me. Between the southeast and middle forks, a distant line of lofty mountains rose with snow-covered peaks above the irregular and broken mountains nearby this beautiful spot. The farthest point I could see of the southeast fork was due south, 65° east, about seven miles away, as noted earlier. Near the junction of the middle and southeast forks with the southwest fork, there is an attractive site for a fortification made of limestone rock in an oblong shape; its sides are steep and about 25 feet high, except for the end toward the middle fork, which rises gradually and like the top is covered with a fine layer of green grass. The top is level and covers about two acres. The rock rises up from the flat plain as though it were designed for this purpose. The farthest point I could see into the meadow and winding path of the middle fork was about 15° east, around 14 miles away. Here, it bends to the right around a point of high ground and disappears from my view. Its banks are several miles wide and, like those of the southeast fork, form a single smooth and beautiful green meadow, which is also split into several streams. Between this and the southwest fork lies a vast plain that appears to stretch up both rivers for many miles and back toward the mountains. The farthest point of the southwest fork I can see is about 30° west, about 12 miles away. This stream flows through a similar landscape as the other two but is more twisted and serpentine in its course than either; it also has much more timber in its low-lying areas. The timber consists mostly of narrowleaf cottonwood, with little box alder or sweet willow. The underbrush is thick, as previously described in the quarter of the Missouri. A range of high mountains seems to stretch from south to west in the distance, partially covered in snow. The land to the right of the southwest fork, like the land to the left of the southeast fork, is high, uneven, and mountainous, as is the area down the Missouri behind us, through which these three rivers, after coming together at this point, appear to have forced a passage. These bottom lands, though not more than 8 or 9 feet above the water, seem never to flood. After drafting a map of the connections and meandering paths of these streams, I descended the hill and returned to the group, had breakfast, and then continued up the southwest fork for 1.75 miles, setting up camp at a left-hand bend in a nice, level, smooth plain just below a bayou, after passing the entrance of the middle fork at half a mile. I decided to camp here to wait for Captain Clark's return and give the men some rest, which seemed absolutely necessary. At the junction of the southwest and middle forks, I found a note left by Captain Clark, informing me of his intended route and that he would rejoin me here unless he found any fresh signs of Indians, in which case he planned to pursue them, expecting that I would take the southwest fork, which I definitely preferred due to its more promising direction. Believing this to be a crucial point in the geography of this western part of the continent, I decided to stay here until I gathered the necessary data to fix its latitude, longitude, etc. After setting up my camp, I had the canoes unloaded, stored the supplies safely onshore, and allowed several men to go hunt. I walked down to the middle fork to examine it and compare it with the southwest fork but couldn't determine which was larger; in fact, they appeared similar, as if they had come from the same mold, showing no difference in character or size. Therefore, choosing either of these streams to call the Missouri would imply a preference that their sizes do not justify, since neither is larger than the other. They are both 90 yards wide. In these meadows, I saw several mallard ducks with their nearly grown young. Currants of every kind, as well as gooseberries, are plentiful here and in excellent condition. A large black gooseberry bush, which can grow to five or six feet high, is found here. This grows in the bottom lands and is seen near the small streams flowing down from the hills and mountains. It sends up many stems from the same root, some of which are partially branched and all arching. The berry is attached separately by a long stem to the branch, hanging down beneath it. The berry is oval-shaped, smooth, and about the size of a typical garden gooseberry when ripe and as black as jet, though the pulp is a crimson color. This fruit is very sour. The leaf resembles that of a regular gooseberry in shape but is somewhat larger, proportionate to the greater size of its stem compared to the common gooseberry. The stem is covered with very sharp thorns or brambles. Below the tree forks, as we passed this morning, I noted many clusters of mud nests from small martins attached to the smooth face of the limestone rocks, sheltered by overhanging ledges of the same rock above. Our hunters returned this evening with six deer, three otters, and one muskrat. They reported seeing many antelopes and plenty of signs of beaver, otter, deer, elk, etc. At 3 P.M., Captain Clark arrived, very ill with a high fever, fatigued and worn out. He told me he had been very sick all night with a high fever, frequent chills, and constant aching pains in all his muscles. Despite feeling unwell this morning, he continued on his intended route to the middle fork for about eight miles but found no recent signs of Indians, so he rested for about an hour and then returned down the middle fork to this location. Captain Clark thought he might be somewhat bilious and hadn’t been able to go for several days, so I persuaded him to take a dose of Rush's pills, which I've always found effective in such cases, and to soak his feet in warm water and rest. Captain Clark's illness encouraged me to stay here a couple more days; I informed the men of my plan, and they put their deer hides in the water to prepare them for dressing tomorrow. We're beginning to feel concerned about encountering the Snake Indians. If we don’t find them or another tribe with horses, I fear that the successful outcome of our expedition will be very doubtful, or at the very least, much more challenging to achieve. We are several hundred miles deep into this wild and mountainous region, where game may soon become scarce and sustenance precarious, without any knowledge of the area; we don’t know how far these mountains stretch or where to aim for a better route around them to intercept a navigable branch of the Columbia. Even if we were on one, it seems likely we wouldn’t find any timber large enough for canoes within these mountains based on what we've seen so far. Nonetheless, I still remain hopeful and plan to take a scouting trip in a few days to locate these yellow gentlemen if possible. My two main comforts are that from our current position, it’s impossible for the southwest fork to feed any other river but the Columbia and that if any nation of Indians can survive in these mountains given their means to procure food, then so can we. Captain Clark mentioned that there’s a part of the bottom on the west side of the middle fork near the plain that seems to occasionally flood and is rocky.
[Clark, July 27, 1805]
July 27th Saturday 1805 I was verry unwell all last night with a high fever & akeing in all my bones. my fever &c. continus, deturmind to prosue my intended rout to the middle fork, accordingly Set out in great pain across a Prarie 8 miles to the Middle this fork is nearly as large as the North fork & appears to be more rapid, we examined and found no fresh Sign of Indians, and after resting about an hour, proceeded down to the junction thro a wide bottom which appears to be overflown every year, & maney parts Stoney this river has Several Islands and number of beaver & orter, but little timber. we could See no fresh Sign of Indians just above the Point I found Capt Lewis encamped haveing arrived about 2 oClock. Several Deer killed this evening. I continue to be verry unwell fever verry high; take 5 of rushes pills & bathe my feet & legs in hot water
July 27th, Saturday, 1805. I felt really sick all night with a high fever and aches in all my bones. My fever continues, but I’m determined to stick to my planned route to the middle fork. So, I set out in great pain across a prairie for 8 miles to the middle. This fork is nearly as large as the north fork and seems to flow faster. We examined the area but found no fresh signs of Indians. After resting for about an hour, we moved down to the junction through a wide bottom that seems to flood every year, with many rocky parts. This river has several islands and a lot of beaver and otter, but not much timber. We couldn’t see any fresh signs of Indians just above the point where I found Capt. Lewis encamped, having arrived around 2 o'clock. Several deer were killed this evening. I still feel very unwell, with a high fever; I took 5 of Rush's pills and bathed my feet and legs in hot water.
[Lewis, July 28, 1805]
Sunday July 28th 1805. My friend Capt. Clark was very sick all last night but feels himself somwhat better this morning since his medicine has opperated. I dispatched two men early this morning up the S. E. Fork to examine the river; and permitted sundry others to hunt in the neighbourhood of this place. Both Capt. C. and myself corrisponded in opinon with rispect to the impropriety of calling either of these streams the Missouri and accordingly agreed to name them after the President of the United States and the Secretaries of the Treasury and state having previously named one river in honour of the Secretaries of War and Navy. In pursuance of this resolution we called the S. W. fork, that which we meant to ascend, Jefferson's River in honor of Thomas Jefferson. the Middle fork we called Madison's River in honor of James Madison, and the S. E. Fork we called Gallitin's River in honor of Albert Gallitin. the two first are 90 yards wide and the last is 70 yards. all of them run with great valocity and thow out large bodies of water. Gallitin's River is reather more rapid than either of the others, is not quite as deep but from all appearances may be navigated to a considerable distance. Capt. C. who came down Madison's river yesterday and has also seen Jefferson's some distance thinks Madison's reather the most rapid, but it is not as much so by any means as Gallitin's. the beds of all these streams are formed of smooth pebble and gravel, and their waters perfectly transparent; in short they are three noble streams. there is timber enough here to support an establishment, provided it be erected with brick or stone either of which would be much cheaper than wood as all the materials for such a work are immediately at the spot. there are several small sand-bars along the shores at no great distance of very pure sand and the earth appears as if it would make good brick. I had all our baggage spread out to dry this morning; and the day proving warm, I had a small bower or booth erected for the comfort of Capt. C. our leather lodge when exposed to the sun is excessively hot. I observe large quantities of the sand rush in these bottoms which grow in many places as high as a man's breast and stand as thick as the stalks of wheat usually do. this affords one of the best winter pastures on earth for horses or cows, and of course will be much in favour of an establishment should it ever be thought necessary to fix one at this place. the grass is also luxouriant and would afford a fine swarth of hay at this time in parsels of many acres together. all those who are not hunting altho much fatiegued are busily engaged in dressing their skins, making mockersons leggings &c to make themselves comfortable. the Musquetoes are more than usually troublesome, the knats are not as much so. in the evening about 4 O'Ck the wind blew hard from South West and after some little time brought on a Cloud attended with thunder and Lightning from which we had a fine refreshing shower which cooled the air considerably; the showers continued with short intervals untill after dark. in the evening the hunters all returned they had killed 8 deer and 2 Elk. some of the deer wer in excellent order. those whome I had sent up Gallitin's river reported that after it passed the point to which I had seen it yesterday that it turned more to the East to a considerable distance or as far as they could discover the opening of the Mountains formed by it's valley which was many miles. the bottoms were tolerably wide but not as much so as at or near it's mouth. it's current is rappid and the stream much divided with islands but is sufficiently deep for canoe navigation. Our present camp is precisely on the spot that the Snake Indians were encamped at the time the Minnetares of the Knife R. first came in sight of them five years since. from hence they retreated about three miles up Jeffersons river and concealed themselves in the woods, the Minnetares pursued, attacked them, killed 4 men 4 women a number of boys, and mad prisoners of all the females and four boys, Sah-cah-gar-we-ah or Indian woman was one of the female prisoners taken at that time; tho I cannot discover that she shews any immotion of sorrow in recollecting this event, or of joy in being again restored to her native country; if she has enough to eat and a few trinkets to wear I beleive she would be perfectly content anywhere.
Sunday, July 28th, 1805. My friend Captain Clark was very sick all last night but feels a bit better this morning since his medicine has taken effect. I sent two men early this morning up the Southeast Fork to check out the river and allowed several others to hunt near this place. Both Captain Clark and I agreed that it was inappropriate to call either of these streams the Missouri, so we decided to name them after the President of the United States and the Secretaries of the Treasury and State, having already named one river in honor of the Secretaries of War and Navy. Following this resolution, we named the Southwest Fork, which we intended to ascend, Jefferson's River in honor of Thomas Jefferson. The Middle Fork we named Madison's River in honor of James Madison, and the Southeast Fork we named Gallatin's River in honor of Albert Gallatin. The first two are 90 yards wide, and the last is 70 yards. All of them flow with great speed and carry large amounts of water. Gallatin's River is slightly faster than the others, not quite as deep, but it seems navigable for a considerable distance. Captain Clark, who came down Madison's River yesterday and has also seen Jefferson's for a ways, thinks Madison's is a bit more rapid, but it's not nearly as fast as Gallatin's. The beds of all these streams are made of smooth pebbles and gravel, and their waters are perfectly clear; in short, they are three impressive rivers. There is enough timber here to support a settlement, provided it is built with brick or stone, either of which would be much cheaper than wood since all the materials needed for such a project are right here. There are several small sandbars along the shores nearby with very pure sand, and the soil looks like it would make good brick. I had all our baggage spread out to dry this morning, and since it was a warm day, I had a small shelter built for Captain Clark's comfort; our leather lodge gets extremely hot in the sun. I notice large amounts of sand rush growing in these low areas, reaching up to a man's chest in places and standing as densely as wheat stalks usually do. This provides one of the best winter pastures on earth for horses or cows, and it would be very favorable for a settlement if it were ever considered necessary to establish one here. The grass is also lush and would provide a great swath of hay right now in patches of many acres together. Those not hunting, although quite tired, are busy dressing their skins, making moccasins, leggings, etc., to keep themselves comfortable. The mosquitoes are particularly bothersome, though the gnats aren't as much of a problem. In the evening, around 4 o'clock, the wind picked up strongly from the southwest, and after a little while, it brought in a cloud accompanied by thunder and lightning, which gave us a nice refreshing shower that cooled the air considerably; the showers continued at short intervals until after dark. By evening, all the hunters returned; they had killed 8 deer and 2 elk. Some of the deer were in excellent condition. Those I sent up Gallatin's River reported that after the point where I saw it yesterday, it turned eastward for quite a distance or as far as they could see the mountains formed by its valley, which was many miles. The low areas were fairly wide, but not as wide as at or near its mouth. Its current is fast, and the stream is much divided by islands, but it is deep enough for canoe navigation. Our current camp is precisely where the Snake Indians were encamped when the Minnetaree of the Knife River first caught sight of them five years ago. From here, they retreated about three miles up Jefferson's River and hid in the woods. The Minnetaree pursued, attacked them, killed 4 men and 4 women, many boys, and took all the females and four boys as prisoners. Sah-cah-gar-we-ah, or Indian woman, was one of the female prisoners taken at that time; however, I can't see that she shows any emotion of sorrow in recalling this event, or joy in being back in her native land; if she has enough to eat and a few trinkets to wear, I believe she would be perfectly content anywhere.
[Clark, July 28, 1805]
July 28th Sunday 1805 I was verry unwell all night, Something better this morning, a very worm day untill 4 oClock when the wind rose & blew hard from the S W. and was Cloudy, The Thermometr. Stood at 90° above 0 in the evening a heavy thunder Shower from the S W. which continud at intervales untill after dark, Several deer killed to day men all employed dressing Skins for Clothes & Mockersons, two men went up the East fork & reports that it is nearly the Size of the N. fork, verry rapid & has maney Islands. Our present Camp is the prosise Spot the Snake Indians were Camped at the time the Minetarries came in Sight, attacked & killed 4 men 4 women & a number of boys, & made prisoners of all. the females & 4 boys.
July 28th, Sunday, 1805 I was very unwell all night. I felt somewhat better this morning. It was a very warm day until 4 o'clock when the wind picked up and blew hard from the southwest, and it became cloudy. The thermometer stood at 90° in the evening. There was a heavy thunder shower from the southwest that continued at intervals until after dark. Several deer were killed today, and all the men were busy dressing skins for clothes and moccasins. Two men went up the east fork and reported that it is nearly the size of the north fork, very fast-flowing, and has many islands. Our current camp is the exact spot where the Snake Indians were camped when the Minetarries came into sight, attacked, and killed 4 men, 4 women, and several boys, and took all the females and 4 boys captive.
[Lewis, July 29, 1805]
Monday July 29th 1805. This morning some of the hunters turned out and returned in a few hours with four fat bucks, the venison is now very fine we have killed no mule deer since we lay here, they are all of the longtailed red deer which appear quite as large as those of the United States. the hunters brought in a living young sandhill crane it has nearly obtained it's growth but cannot fly; they had pursued it and caught it in the meadows. it's colour is precisely that of the red deer. we see a number of the old or full grown crams of this species feeding in these meadows. this young animal is very ferce and strikes a severe blow with his beak; after amusing myself with it I had it set at liberty and it moved off apparently much pleased with being releived from his captivity. the men have been busily engaged all day in dising skins and making them into various garments all are leather dressers and taylors. we see a great abundance of fish in the stream some of which we take to be trout but they will not bite at any bate we can offer them. the King fisher is common on the river since we have left the falls of the Missouri. we have not seen the summer duck since we left that place, nor do I beleive that it is an inhabitant of the Rocky mountains. the Duckanmallard were first seen with their young on the 20th inst. and I forgot to note it; they are now abundant with their young but do not breed in the missouri below the mountains. the grasshopers and crickets are abundant in the plains as are also the small birds frequently mentioned. there is also in these plains a large ant with a redish brown body and legs, and a black head and abdomen; they construct little perimids of small gravel in a conic shape, about 10 or 12 inches high without a mixture of sticks and with but little earth. Capt. Clark is much better today, is perfectly clear of fever but still very languid and complains of a general soarness in all his limbs. I prevailed on him to take the barks which he has done and eate tolerably freely of our good venison.
Monday, July 29th, 1805. This morning, some of the hunters went out and returned a few hours later with four fat bucks. The venison is really good now. We haven’t hunted any mule deer since we’ve been here; they’re all long-tailed red deer that seem just as large as those in the United States. The hunters also brought in a young sandhill crane that is almost fully grown but can’t fly; they chased and caught it in the meadows. Its color is exactly like that of the red deer. We see a number of adult cranes of this species feeding in these meadows. This young bird is very fierce and strikes hard with its beak; after I entertained myself with it, I let it go, and it moved off looking quite happy to be freed from captivity. The men have been busy all day processing skins and making them into various garments; they are all leatherworkers and tailors. There are plenty of fish in the stream, some of which we think are trout, but they won’t bite at any bait we offer. The kingfisher is common on the river since we left the falls of the Missouri. We haven’t seen the summer duck since we left that place, and I don’t believe it lives in the Rocky Mountains. The duck mallards were first seen with their young on the 20th and I forgot to note it; they are now abundant with their young but don’t breed in the Missouri below the mountains. The grasshoppers and crickets are plentiful in the plains, as are the small birds we’ve often mentioned. There’s also a large ant in these plains with a reddish-brown body and legs, and a black head and abdomen; they build small pyramids of gravel in a cone shape, about 10 or 12 inches high, without using any sticks and with very little earth. Capt. Clark feels much better today; he’s completely free of fever but still feels very weak and complains of general soreness in all his limbs. I persuaded him to take the barks, which he did, and he ate fairly freely of our good venison.
[Clark, July 29, 1805]
July 29 Monday 1805 A fair morning wind from the North I feel my Self something better to day, made some Celestial observations took two Merdn. altitudes which gave for Latd. 45° 22' 34" N men all dressing Skins &c.
July 29, Monday, 1805 A nice morning breeze from the North. I'm feeling a bit better today. I made some celestial observations and took two meridian altitudes, which gave a latitude of 45° 22' 34" N. The men are all working on dressing skins, etc.
[Lewis, July 30, 1805]
Tuesday July 30th 1805. Capt. Clark being much better this morning and having completed my observations we reloaded our canoes and set out, ascending Jeffersons river. Sharbono, his woman two invalleds and myself walked through the bottom on the Lard. side of the river about 41/2 miles when we again struck it at the place the woman informed us that she was taken prisoner. here we halted untill Capt. Clark arrived which was not untill after one P.M. the water being strong and the river extreemly crooked. we dined and again proceeded on; as the river now passed through the woods the invalleds got on board together with Sharbono and the Indian woman; I passed the river and continued my walk on the Stard. side. saw a vast number of beaver in many large dams which they had maid in various bayoes of the river which are distributed to the distance of three or four miles on this side of the river over an extensive bottom of timbered and meadow lands intermixed. in order to avoid these bayoes and beaver dams which I found difficult to pass I directed my course to the high plain to the right which I gained after some time with much difficulty and waiding many beaver dams to my waist in mud and water. I would willingly have joined the canoes but the brush were so thick, the river crooked and bottoms intercepted in such manner by the beaver dams, that I found it uceless to attempt to find them, and therefore proceeded on up the river in order to intersept it where it came near the plain and woult be more collected into one channel. at length about sunset I arrived at the river only about six miles from my calculation on a direct line from the place I had left the canoes but I thought they were still below me. I found the river was divided where I reached it by an Island and was therefore fearfull that they might pass without my seeing them, and went down to the lower point of the large island; here I discovered a small Island, close under the shore on which I was; I passed the narrow channel to the small island and examined the gravly bar along the edge of the river for the tracks of the men, knowing from the appearance of the river at this place that if they had passed they would have used the cord on the side where I was. I saw no tracks and was then fully convinced that they were below me. I fired my gun and hallooed but counld hear nothing of them. by this time it was getting nearly dark and a duck lit on the shore in about 40 steps of me and I killed it; having now secured my supper I looked our for a suitable place to amuse myself in combating the musquetoes for the ballance of the evening. I found a parsel of drift wood at the head of the little Island on which I was and immediately set it on fire and collected some willow brush to lye on. I cooked my duck which I found very good and after eating it layed down and should have had a comfortable nights lodge but for the musquetoes which infested me all night. late at night I was awakened by the nois of some animal runing over the stoney bar on which I lay but did not see it; from the weight with which it ran I supposed it to be either an Elk or a brown bear. the latter are very abundant in this neighbourhood. the night was cool but I felt very little inconvenience from it as I had a large fire all night. Capt. Clark had proceeded on after I seperated from him and encamped on a islad. only about 2 miles below me but did not hear the report of my gun nor of my hooping.-I saw some deer and antelopes.
Tuesday, July 30th, 1805. Captain Clark was feeling much better this morning, and after finishing my observations, we reloaded our canoes and set off, going up Jefferson's River. Sharbono, his partner, two injured men, and I walked along the bottom on the left side of the river for about 4.5 miles until we reached the spot where the woman told us she had been captured. We paused here until Captain Clark arrived, which wasn’t until after 1 PM due to the strong water and the river’s extreme bends. We had lunch and then continued on; as the river went through the woods, the injured men boarded the canoes along with Sharbono and the Indian woman. I crossed the river and kept walking on the right side. I saw a huge number of beavers and many large dams they had built in various bays of the river, which stretched for three or four miles on this side over a wide area of timbered and meadow land. To avoid these bays and beaver dams, which were hard to navigate, I headed towards the high plain on my right, which I reached after some time, struggling through mud and water up to my waist while wading across many beaver dams. I would have liked to join the canoes, but the underbrush was so thick, the river was so winding, and the bottoms were blocked by beaver dams that I found it pointless to look for them. I decided to continue up the river to intercept it where it approached the plain and would be more confined into one channel. Finally, around sunset, I reached the river — only about six miles off from my straight-line estimate of where I had left the canoes — but I thought they were still downstream. I found that the river was split by an island where I arrived, and I worried they might pass without me seeing them. So, I went to the lower point of the large island; there, I noticed a small island close to the shore I was on. I crossed the narrow channel to the small island and checked the gravel bar along the river's edge for tracks, knowing from the river's appearance that if they had passed, they would have used the cord on my side. I saw no tracks and was convinced they were below me. I fired my gun and called out but heard nothing from them. By this time, it was getting nearly dark, and a duck landed about 40 steps away from me, which I shot. Having secured my dinner, I looked for a suitable place to deal with the mosquitoes for the rest of the evening. I found a pile of driftwood at the head of the little island I was on and quickly set it on fire, gathering some willow brush to lie on. I cooked my duck, which tasted very good, and after eating, I lay down, expecting to have a comfortable night’s rest, but the mosquitoes bothered me all night. Late at night, I was awakened by the sound of some animal running over the stony bar where I lay, but I didn’t see it. From the weight of its footsteps, I guessed it was either an elk or a brown bear; the latter are very common in this area. The night was cool, but I felt little discomfort because I had a large fire going all night. Captain Clark had moved on after I separated from him and camped on an island only about 2 miles below me, but he didn’t hear the sound of my gun or my calls. I did see some deer and antelopes.
[Clark, July 30, 1805]
July 30th Monday 1805 We Set out 8 oClock and proceeded on 131/2 miles up the N. fork the river verry rapid & Sholey the Channel entirely Corse gravel many Islands and a number of Chanels in different directions thro the bottom &c. passed the place the Squar interpretress was taken, one man with his Sholder Strained, 2 with Turners, we Camped on the Std. Side the evening Cool. Capt Lewis who walkd on Shore did not join me this evening
July 30th, Monday, 1805 We set out at 8 o'clock and traveled 13.5 miles up the north fork of the river, which was very fast-flowing and shallow. The channel was made up of coarse gravel, with many islands and several channels in various directions throughout the bottom, etc. We passed the spot where the square interpretress was taken; one man had a shoulder strain, and two had sprains. We camped on the standard side, and the evening was cool. Captain Lewis, who walked along the shore, didn’t join me this evening.
[Lewis, July 31, 1805]
Wednesday July 31st 1805. This morning I waited at my camp very impatiently for the arrival of Capt. Clark and party; I observed by my watch that it was 7 A.M. and they had not come in sight. I now became very uneasy and determined to wait until 8 and if they did not arrive by that time to proceed on up the river taking it as a fact that they had passed my camp some miles last evening. just as I set out to pursue my plan I discovered Charbono walking up shore some distance below me and waited untill arrived I now learnt that the canoes were behind, they arrived shortly after. their detention had been caused by the rapidity of the water and the circuitous rout of the river. they halted and breakfasted after which we all set out again and I continued my walk on the Stard. shore the river now becomes more collected the islands tho numerous ar generally small. the river continues rapid and is from 90 to 120 yd. wide has a considerable quantity of timber in it's bottoms. towards evening the bottoms became much narrower and the timber much more scant. high hills set in close on the Lard. and the plain high waivy or reather broken on the Stard. and approach the river closely for a shot distance vally above 11/2 M wd. About one mile above Capt. Clark's encampment of the last evening the principall entrance of a considerable river discharges itself into Jefferson's river. this stream is a little upwards of 30 yd. wide discharges a large quantity of very clear water it's bed like that of Jefferson's river is pebble and gravel. it takes it's rise in the snowclad mountains between Jefferson's and Madison's Rivers to the S. W. and discharges itself into the former by seven mouths it has some timber in it's bottoms and vas numbers of beaver and Otter. this stream we call River Philosophy. the rock of the clifts this evening is a hard black grannite like that of the clifts of most parts of the river below the limestone clifts at the 3 forks of the Missouri this evening just before we encamped Drewyer discovered a brown bear enter a small cops of bushes on the Lard. side; we surrounded the place an surched the brush but he had escaped in some manner unperceived but how we could not discover. nothing killed today and our fresh meat is out. when we have a plenty of fresh meat I find it impossible to make the men take any care of it, or use it with the least frugallity. tho I expect that necessity will shortly teach them this art. the mountiains on both sides of the river at no great distance are very lofty. we have a lame crew just now, two with turners or bad boils on various parts of them, one with a bad stone bruise, one with his arm accedently dislocated but fortunately well replaced, and a fifth has streigned his back by sliping and falling backwards on the gunwall of the canoe. the latter is Sergt. Gass. it gives him great pain to work in the canoe in his present situation, but he thinks he can walk with convenience, I therefore scelected him as one of the party to accompany me tomorrow, being determined to go in quest of the Snake Indians. I also directed Drewyer and Charbono to hold themselves in readiness. Charbono thinks that his ankle is sufficiently recovered to stand the march but I entertain my doubts of the fact; he is very anxious to accompany me and I therefore indulge him. There is some pine on the hills on both sides of the river opposite to our encampment which is on the Lard. side upon a small island just above a run. the bull rush & Cat-tail flag grow in great abundance in the moist parts of the bottoms the dryer situations are covered with fine grass, tanzy, thistles, onions and flax. the bottom land fertile and of a black rich loam. the uplands poor sterile and of a light yellow clay with a mixture of small smooth pebble and gravel, poducing prickley pears, sedge and the bearded grass in great abundance; this grass is now so dry that it would birn like tinder.—we saw one bighorn today a few antelopes and deer.-
Wednesday, July 31st, 1805. This morning, I waited anxiously at my camp for Capt. Clark and his group to arrive; I checked my watch and saw it was 7 A.M. and they still hadn’t appeared. I became quite uneasy and decided to wait until 8, and if they hadn’t shown up by then, I would move on up the river, assuming they had passed my camp miles back the previous evening. Just as I was about to go ahead with my plan, I saw Charbono walking along the shore some distance below me, so I waited for him to arrive. I learned that the canoes were delayed, but they showed up shortly after. Their delay had been caused by the fast river currents and the winding route. They stopped to have breakfast, and after that, we all set out again, and I continued my walk along the starboard shore. The river is now more confined; although there are many islands, they are generally small. The river remains rapid and is between 90 to 120 yards wide with a considerable amount of timber along its banks. Toward evening, the lowlands became much narrower with less timber. Tall hills came in close on the left side, while the plain was quite hilly and broken on the starboard side, closely approaching the river for a short distance above 1.5 miles. About one mile above Capt. Clark's last encampment, a significant river flows into Jefferson's River. This stream is just over 30 yards wide and carries a large volume of very clear water; its bed, like that of Jefferson's River, is made up of pebbles and gravel. It originates in the snow-capped mountains between Jefferson's and Madison's Rivers to the southwest and flows into Jefferson's by seven mouths. There is some timber in its lowlands, and it has lots of beaver and otter. We call this stream River Philosophy. The cliffs this evening are made of a hard black granite, similar to those in most parts of the river below the limestone cliffs at the three forks of the Missouri. Just before we set up camp, Drewyer spotted a brown bear enter a small thicket on the left side; we surrounded the area and searched the brush, but the bear escaped unnoticed, though we couldn't figure out how. We didn’t catch anything today, and we’ve run out of fresh meat. When we have a lot of fresh meat, I find it impossible to get the men to take care of it or use it sparingly, though I expect that necessity will soon teach them this skill. The mountains on both sides of the river nearby are very tall. We have a few crew members who are currently injured: two have turners or bad boils on various parts of their bodies, one has a severe bruise on his foot, one accidentally dislocated his arm but thankfully it’s been reset, and a fifth has strained his back by slipping and falling backward onto the gunwale of the canoe. The latter is Sergt. Gass. Working in the canoe is very painful for him, but he thinks he can manage to walk comfortably, so I selected him as one of the party to accompany me tomorrow, as I’m determined to search for the Snake Indians. I also instructed Drewyer and Charbono to be ready. Charbono believes his ankle is healed enough for the march, although I have my doubts; he’s eager to join me, so I decided to indulge him. There's some pine on the hills on both sides of the river, opposite our camp, which is on the left side upon a small island just above a stream. Bullrush and cattail grow abundantly in the moist areas of the lowlands, while the drier spots are covered with fine grass, tansen, thistles, onions, and flax. The bottom land is fertile and has rich black soil. The uplands are poor, sterile, and consist of light yellow clay mixed with small smooth pebbles and gravel, producing prickly pears, sedges, and bearded grass in large quantities; this grass is now so dry it could catch fire easily. We saw one bighorn today, along with a few antelopes and deer.
[Clark, July 31, 1805]
July 31st Tuesday 1805 a fair Morning Capt Lewis out all night, we arrived at his Camp to brackfast, he was without a blanket, & he killed a Duck whiche Suped on &c. the river as yesterday Sholey & rapid, passed the lower mouth of a Small river on the Lard. in the morning & the upper mouth a ____ Miles above, this little river is the one I camped on the 26th & heads in the Snow mountains to the S W. proceeded on verry well and Camped on a Small Island a little above the place I Camped the 25th instant at the mouth of a run on the Lard Side, the bottoms from the Mouth of the river extend to 21/2 Miles & enter a Short & high hill which is about 1 mile thro and, the river then passes thro a 2d value of about 11/2 Miles wide, Some Islands. below this Knobe the river is Crouded with Islands, we are out of fresh meet, & nothing killed to day The Mountains on either Side is high & rough we have two men with toumers and unable to work.
July 31st, Tuesday, 1805 - It was a nice morning. Captain Lewis spent the night outside, and we arrived at his camp for breakfast. He didn’t have a blanket, and he killed a duck, which we had for supper. The river was shallow and fast, just like yesterday. We passed the lower mouth of a small river on the left in the morning, and the upper mouth a few miles above. This little river is where I camped on the 26th and it starts in the snowy mountains to the southwest. We made good progress and camped on a small island just above where I camped on the 25th at the mouth of a stream on the left side. The floodplains from the mouth of the river extend for 2.5 miles and lead to a short, steep hill that is about a mile wide, and then the river flows through a second valley that is about 1.5 miles wide, filled with some islands. Below this point, the river is crowded with islands. We’re out of fresh meat and nothing was killed today. The mountains on either side are high and rugged, and we have two men with injuries who are unable to work.
Capt Lewis deturmin to proceed on with three men in Serch of the Snake Indians, tomorrow
Capt. Lewis decided to move forward with three men in search of the Snake Indians tomorrow.
[Lewis, August 1, 1805]
August 1st 1805 At half after 8 A.M. we halted for breakfast and as had been previously agreed on between Capt. Clark and myself I set out with 3 men in quest of the Snake Indians. the men I took were the two Interpreters Drewyer and Sharbono and Sergt. Gass who by an accedental fall had so disabled himself that it was with much pain he could work in the canoes tho he could march with convenience. the rout we took lay over a rough high range of mountains on the North side of the river. the rive entered these mountains a few miles above where we left it. Capt Clark recommended this rout to me from a belief that the river as soon as it past the mountains boar to the N. of W. he having a few days before ascended these mountains to a position from which he discovered a large valley passing betwen the mountains and which boar to the N. West. this however poved to be the inlet of a large creek which discharged itself into the river just above this range of mountans, the river bearing to the S. W. we were therefore thrown several miles out of our rout. as soon as we discovered our mistake we directed our course to the river which we at length gained about 2 P.M. much exhausted by the heat of the day the roughnes of the road and the want of water. the mountains are extreemly bare of timber and our rout lay through the steep valleys exposed to the heat of the sun without shade and scarcely a breath of air; and to add to my fatiegue in this walk of about 11 miles I had taken a doze of glauber salts in the morning in consequence of a slight desentary with which I had been afflicted for several days; being weakened by the disorder and the opperation of the medecine I found myself almost exhausted before we reached the river. I felt my sperits much revived on our near approach to the river at the sight of a herd of Elk of which Drewyer and myself killed two. we then hurried to the river and allayed our thirst. I ordered two of the men to skin the Elk and bring the meat to the river while myself and the other prepared a fire and cooked some of the meat for our dinner. we made a comfortable meal of the Elk and left the ballance of the meat on the bank of the river the party with Capt. Clark. this supply was no doubt very acceptable to them as they had had no fresh meat for near two days except one beaver Game being very scarce and shy. we had seen a few deer and some goats but had not been fortunate enough to kill any of them. after dinner we resumed our march and encamped about 6 m. above on the Stard side of the river.
August 1st, 1805 At 8:30 A.M., we stopped for breakfast, and as previously agreed upon by Captain Clark and me, I set out with three men in search of the Snake Indians. The men I took were the two interpreters, Drewyer and Sharbono, and Sergeant Gass, who had injured himself from an accidental fall and could manage to walk, although he struggled with the canoes. The route we chose took us over a rough high range of mountains on the north side of the river. The river entered these mountains a few miles above where we left it. Captain Clark recommended this route because he believed that as soon as the river passed the mountains, it would turn north of west. A few days prior, he had climbed these mountains to a spot where he discovered a large valley passing between them that also bore to the northwest. However, this turned out to be the entrance of a large creek that flowed into the river just above this mountain range, with the river actually heading southwest. Therefore, we ended up several miles off our course. As soon as we realized our mistake, we changed direction toward the river, which we eventually reached around 2 P.M., extremely tired from the heat of the day, the rough terrain, and lack of water. The mountains were incredibly bare of trees, and our path lay through steep valleys that were exposed to the sun's heat with no shade and hardly a breath of air. To add to my fatigue from the roughly 11-mile walk, I had taken a dose of Glauber salts that morning due to a slight bout of diarrhea I had been dealing with for several days; weakened by this and the effects of the medicine, I felt almost exhausted by the time we reached the river. My spirits lifted when we got close to the river and saw a herd of elk, of which Drewyer and I managed to kill two. We then hurried to the river to quench our thirst. I instructed two of the men to skin the elk and bring the meat to the river while the other man and I prepared a fire and cooked some of the meat for dinner. We enjoyed a hearty meal of elk and left the remaining meat on the riverbank for Captain Clark's group. This supply was certainly welcome for them, as they hadn't had any fresh meat for nearly two days except for one beaver, with game being very scarce and timid. We had seen a few deer and some goats but hadn't been lucky enough to hunt any. After dinner, we continued our march and set up camp about 6 miles upstream on the starboard side of the river.
[Lewis, August 1, 1805]
Thursday August 1st 1805. This morning we set out early and proceeded on tolerably well untill 8 OCT. by which time we had arrived within a few miles of a mountain through which the river passes. we halted on the Stard. side and took breakfast. after which or at 1/2 after 8 A.M. as had been previously concerted betwen Capt. Clark and myself I set out with three men in surch of the Snake Indians or Sosonees. our rout lay over a high range of mountains on the North side of the river. Capt C. recommended this rout to me no doubt from a beleif that the river as soon as it passed this chain of mountains boar to the N. of W. he having on the 26th ult. ascended these mountains to a position from whence he discoved a large valley passing between the mountains which boar to the N. W. and presumed that the river passed in that direction; this however proved to be the passage of a large creek which discharged itself into the river just above this range of mountains, the river bearing to the S. W. we were therefore thrown several miles out of our rout. as soon as we discovered our error we directed our course to the river which we at length gained about 2 P.M. much exhausted by the heat of the day, the roughness of the road and the want of water. the mountains are extreemly bare of timber, and our rout lay through the steep and narrow hollows of the mountains exposed to the intese heat of the midday sun without shade or scarcely a breath of air to add to my fatiegue in this walk of about 11 miles, I had taken a doze of glauber salts in the morning in consequence of a slight disentary with which I had been afflicted for several days. being weakened by the disorder and the operation of the medicine I found myself almost exhausted before we reached the river. I felt my sperits much revived on our near approach to the river at the sight of a herd of Elk, of which Drewyer and myself soon killed a couple. we then hurryed to the river and allayed our thirst. I ordered two of the men to skin the Elk and bring the meat to the river, while myself and the other prepared a fire and cooked some of the meat for our dinner. we made a comfortable meal on the Elk, and left the ballance of the meat and skins on the bank of the river for Capt. Clark and party. this supply will no doubt be acceptable to them, as they had had no fresh meat when I left them for almost 2 days except one beaver; game being very scarce and shy above the forks. we had seen a few deer and antelopes but had not been fortunate enough to kill any of them. as I passed these mountains I saw a flock of the black or dark brown phesants; the young phesant is almost grown we killed one of them. this bird is fully a third larger than the common phesant of the Atlantic states. it's form is much the same. it is booted nearly to the toes and the male has not the tufts of long black feathers on the sides of the neck which are so conspicuous in those of the Atlantic. their colour is a uniform dark brown with a small mixture of yellow or yelloish brown specks on some of the feathers particularly those of the tail, tho the extremities of these are perfectly black for about one inch. the eye is nearly black, the iris has a small dash of yellowish brown. the feathers of the tail are reather longer than that of our phesant or pattridge as they are Called in the Eastern States; are the same in number or eighteen and all nearly of the same length, those in the intermediate part being somewhat longest. the flesh of this bird is white and agreeably flavored. I also saw near the top of the mountain among some scattering pine a blue bird about the size of the common robbin. it's action and form is somewhat that of the jay bird and never rests long in any one position but constantly flying or hoping from sprey to sprey. I shot at one of them but missed it. their note is loud and frequently repeated both flying and when at rest and is char ah', char'ah, char ah', as nearly as letters can express it. after dinner we resumed our march and my pack felt much lighter than it had done about 2 hours before. we traveled about six miles further and encamped on the stard. bank of the river, making a distance of 17 miles for this day. the Musquetoes were troublesome but I had taken the precaution of bringing my bier.
Thursday, August 1st, 1805. This morning we set out early and made good progress until 8 AM, by which time we had come within a few miles of a mountain that the river flows through. We stopped on the starboard side and had breakfast. After that, at 8:30 AM, as previously arranged between Captain Clark and me, I set out with three men in search of the Snake Indians or Sosonees. Our route took us over a high range of mountains on the north side of the river. Captain Clark suggested this route, probably believing that the river, once it crossed this mountain range, would turn north of west. On the 26th of last month, he had climbed these mountains and spotted a large valley between them that headed northwest, leading him to assume that the river flowed in that direction; however, it turned out to be the path of a large creek that emptied into the river just above this mountain range, with the river actually veering southwest. As a result, we were several miles off course. Once we realized our mistake, we adjusted our direction toward the river, which we finally reached around 2 PM, very exhausted from the heat of the day, the rough terrain, and the lack of water. The mountains are extremely bare of trees, and our path led through steep and narrow valleys exposed to the intense heat of the midday sun, without shade or hardly any breeze to relieve my fatigue during this 11-mile walk. I had taken a dose of Glauber's salts that morning due to a slight case of dysentery I had been suffering from for several days. Weakened by the illness and the effects of the medicine, I felt nearly drained by the time we reached the river. My spirits were greatly lifted when we neared the river and spotted a herd of elk, which Drewyer and I quickly hunted down. We then hurried to the river to quench our thirst. I instructed two of the men to skin the elk and bring the meat back to the river while the other man and I set up a fire and cooked some for dinner. We enjoyed a hearty meal of elk and left the rest of the meat and hides on the riverbank for Captain Clark and his party. They would certainly appreciate this supply, as they had not had fresh meat in almost two days, except for one beaver; game was scarce and skittish above the forks. We had seen a few deer and antelope but hadn’t been lucky enough to catch any. While passing through these mountains, I spotted a flock of black or dark brown pheasants; the young pheasant was nearly fully grown, and we managed to kill one. This bird is at least a third larger than the common pheasant found in the Atlantic states. Its shape is similar but has feathers that are almost booted up to the toes, and the male does not have the long black feather tufts on the sides of the neck that are characteristic of those in the Atlantic. Their color is a uniform dark brown with a few yellow or yellowish-brown specks on some of the feathers, especially those of the tail, although the tips of the tail feathers are perfectly black for about an inch. The eye is nearly black, and the iris has a faint dash of yellowish brown. The tail feathers are somewhat longer than those of our pheasant or partridge, as they are called in the Eastern States; they number eighteen and are all nearly the same length, with the middle ones being slightly longer. The flesh of this bird is white and has a pleasant flavor. I also saw a blue bird near the top of the mountain among some scattered pines, about the size of a common robin. Its actions and shape are somewhat like a jay bird, never staying in one place for long but constantly flying or hopping from branch to branch. I shot at one of them but missed. Their call is loud and frequently repeated both in flight and while resting, sounding like "char ah', char'ah, char ah'," as closely as letters can express it. After dinner, we continued our march, and my pack felt much lighter than it had a couple of hours earlier. We traveled about six more miles and camped on the starboard bank of the river, covering a distance of 17 miles for the day. The mosquitoes were bothersome, but I had the foresight to bring my net.
Shortly after I left Capt. Clark this morning he proceed on and passed through the mountains; they formed tremendious clifts of ragged and nearly perpendicular rocks; the lower.part of this rock is of the black grannite before mentioned and the upper part a light coloured freestone. these clifts continue for 9 miles and approach the river very closely on either side. he found the current verry strong. Capt. C. killed a big horn on these clifts which himself and party dined on. after passing this range of mountains he entered this beautifull valley in which we also were it is from 6 to 8 miles wide. the river is crooked and crouded with islands, it's bottoms wide fertile and covered with fine grass from 9 inches to 2 feet high and possesses but a scant proportion of timber, which consists almost entirely of a few narrow leafed cottonwood trees distributed along the verge of the river. in the evening Capt. C. found the Elk I had left him and ascended a short distance above to the entrance of a large creek which falls in on Stard. and encamped opposite to it on the Lard. side. he sent out the two Fieldses to hunt this evening and they killed 5 deer, which with the Elk again gave them a plentifull store of fresh provisions. this large creek we called Field's Creek after Reubin Fields one our party. on the river about the mountains wich Capt. C. passed today he saw some large cedar trees and some juniper also just at the upper side of the mountain there is a bad rappid here the toe line of our canoe broke in the shoot of the rapids and swung on the rocks and had very nearly overset. a small distance above this rapid a large bold Creek falls in on Lard. side which we called Frazier's Creek after Robt. Frazier. They saw a large brown bear feeding on currants but could not get a shoot at him.
Shortly after I left Capt. Clark this morning, he continued on and passed through the mountains. They formed tremendous cliffs of jagged and almost vertical rocks; the lower part of the rock is the black granite I mentioned before, and the upper part is a light-colored sandstone. These cliffs continue for 9 miles and come very close to the river on either side. He found the current to be very strong. Capt. C. killed a bighorn on these cliffs, which he and his party dined on. After passing this mountain range, he entered a beautiful valley where we also were; it is about 6 to 8 miles wide. The river is winding and packed with islands, its floodplains are wide, fertile, and covered with lush grass ranging from 9 inches to 2 feet high, and there's only a sparse amount of timber, which consists almost entirely of a few narrow-leaved cottonwood trees scattered along the river's edge. In the evening, Capt. C. found the elk I had left him and moved a short distance upstream to the mouth of a large creek that flows in from the east and set up camp across from it on the west side. He sent out the Fields brothers to hunt that evening, and they killed 5 deer, which, along with the elk, provided them a generous supply of fresh provisions. We named this large creek Field's Creek after Reubin Fields, one of our party members. On the river near the mountains that Capt. C. passed today, he saw some large cedar trees and some juniper. Just on the upper side of the mountain, there is a rough rapid; here, the toe line of our canoe broke in the rush of the rapids and swung onto the rocks, nearly capsizing us. A short distance above this rapid, a large bold creek flows in on the west side, which we named Frazier's Creek after Robt. Frazier. They spotted a large brown bear feeding on currants but couldn’t get a shot at him.
[Clark, August 1, 1805]
August 1st Wednesday 1805 A fine day Capt. Lewis left me at 8 oClock just below the place I entered a verrey high mountain which jutted its tremedious Clifts on either Side for 9 Miles, the rocks ragide Some verry dark & other part verry light rock the light rocks is Sand Stone. The water Swift & very Sholey. I killed a Ibix on which the whole party Dined, after passing through the Mountain we entered a wide extesive vallie of from 4 to 8 Miles wide verry leavell a Creek falls in at the Commencement of this Vallie on the Lard Side, the river widens & spreds into Small Chanels. We encamped on the Lard Side opposit a large Creek I sent out Jo. & R fields to hunt this evening they killed 5 Deer, I saw a large Bear eateing Currents this evining The river so rapid that the greatest exertion is required by all to get the boats on wind S W Murckery at sun rise 50° Ab. 0
August 1st, Wednesday, 1805 It was a nice day. Capt. Lewis left me at 8 o'clock, just below a very tall mountain with steep cliffs on either side for 9 miles. The rocks were rugged, with some very dark and others very light. The lighter rocks were sandstone. The water was fast and quite shallow. I shot an ibex, which the whole party ate for dinner. After passing through the mountain, we entered a wide, extensive valley that was 4 to 8 miles wide and very level. A creek flows in at the start of this valley on the left side, and the river widens and spreads into small channels. We set up camp on the left side, opposite a large creek. I sent Jo and R Fields out to hunt, and they shot 5 deer. I saw a large bear eating currents this evening. The river was so fast that it took significant effort from everyone to get the boats on. Wind was coming from the southwest. The mercury at sunrise was 50°F above zero.
[Lewis, August 2, 1805]
August 2nd 1805. We resumed our march this morning at sunrise the weather was fair and wind from N. W. finding that the river still boar to the south I determined to pass it if possible to shorten our rout this we effected about five miles above our camp of last evening by wading it. found the current very rappid about 90 yards wide and waist deep this is the first time that I ever dared to make the attempt to wade the river, tho there are many places between this and the three forks where I presume it migh be attempted with equal success. the valley though which our rout of this day lay and through which the river winds it's meandering course is a beatifull level plain with but little timber and that on the verge of the river. the land is tolerably fertile, consisting of a black or dark yellow loam, and covered with grass from 9 Inches to 2 feet high. the plain ascends gradually on either side of the river to the bases of two ranges of mountains which ly parrallel to the river and which terminate the width of the vally. the tops of these mountains were yet partially covered with snow while we in the valley. were suffocated nearly with the intense heat of the midday sun. the nights are so could that two blankets are not more than sufficient covering. we found a great courants, two kinds of which were red, others yellow deep purple and black, also black goosburies and service buries now ripe and in full perfection, we feasted suptuously on our wild fruit particularly the yellow courant and the deep purple servicebury which I found to be excellent the courrant grows very much like the red currant common to the gardens in the atlantic states tho the leaf is somewhat different and the growth taller. the service burry grows on a smaller bush and differs from ours only in colour and the superior excellence of it's flavor and size, it is of a deep purple. this day we saw an abundance of deer and goats or antelopes and a great number of the tracks of Elk; of the former we killed two. we continued our rout along this valley which is from six to eight Miles wide untill sun set when we encamped for the night on the river bank having traveled about 24 miles. I feel myself perfectly recovered of my indisposition and do not doubt being able to pursue my march with equal comfort in the morning.
August 2nd, 1805. We started our march this morning at sunrise. The weather was nice with a northwest wind. Since the river still flowed south, I decided to cross it if possible to shorten our route. We managed to do this about five miles above where we camped last night by wading across. The current was very strong, about 90 yards wide and waist-deep. This was the first time I'd dared to attempt crossing the river this way, though I believe there are many places between here and the three forks where it could be done successfully. The valley through which we traveled today, where the river winds its way, is a beautiful flat plain with very little timber, mostly along the riverbank. The land is fairly fertile, made up of black or dark yellow loam, and is covered with grass ranging from nine inches to two feet high. The plain gradually rises on either side of the river to the bases of two mountain ranges that run parallel to it, marking the boundaries of the valley. The tops of these mountains were still partially covered with snow, while we in the valley were nearly overwhelmed by the intense heat of the midday sun. Nights are so cold that two blankets barely provide enough warmth. We found plenty of currants, with two types being red, others yellow, and deep purple and black. We also discovered black gooseberries and serviceberries, now ripe and perfect. We feasted luxuriously on our wild fruit, particularly the yellow currant and the deep purple serviceberry, which I found to be excellent. The currant grows similarly to the red currant commonly found in gardens in the Atlantic states, though the leaf is somewhat different and the plant taller. The serviceberry grows on a smaller bush and differs from ours only in color and the superior taste and size, being a deep purple. Today we saw many deer and goats or antelopes, along with numerous elk tracks; we managed to kill two of the former. We continued our route along this valley, which is six to eight miles wide, until sunset when we set up camp for the night on the riverbank, having traveled about 24 miles. I feel completely recovered from my previous illness and have no doubt that I'll be able to continue my march comfortably in the morning.
[Lewis, August 2, 1805]
Friday August 2cd 1805. We resumed our march this morning at sunrise; the day was fair and wind from N. W. finding that the river still boar to the South I determined to pass it if possible in order to shorten our rout; this we effected by wading the river about 5 miles above our encampment of the last evening. we found the current very rapid waist deep and about 90 yd. wide bottom smooth pebble with a small mixture of coarse gravel. this is the first time that I ever dared to wade the river, tho there are many places between this and the forks where I presume it might be attempted with equal success. The vally allong which we passed today, and through which the river winds it's meandering course is from 6 to 8 miles wide and consists of a beatifull level plain with but little timber and that confined to the verge of the river; the land is tolerably fertile, and is either black or a dark yellow loam, covered with grass from 9 inches to 2 feet high. the plain ascends gradually on either side of the river to the bases of two ranges of high mountains, which lye parallel to the river and prescribe the limits of the plains. the tops of these mountains are yet covered partially with snow, while we in the valley are nearly suffocated with the intense heat of the midday sun; the nights are so cold that two blankets are not more than sufficient covering. soon after passing the river this morning Sergt. Gass lost my tommahawk in the thick brush and we were unable to find it, I regret the loss of this usefull implement, however accedents will happen in the best families, and I consoled myself with the recollection that it was not the only one we had with us. the bones of the buffaloe and their excrement of an old date are to be met with in every part of this valley but we have long since lost all hope of meeting with that animal in these mountains. we met with great quantities of currants today, two species of which were red, others yellow, deep perple and black; also black goosberries and serviceberries now ripe and in great perfection. we feasted sumptuously on our wild fruits, particularly the yellow currant and the deep perple serviceberries, which I found to be excellent. the serviceberry grows on a small bush and differs from ours only in colour size and superior excellence of it's flavour. it is somewhat larger than ours. on our way we saw an abundance of deer Antelopes, of the former we killed 2. we also saw many tracks of the Elk and bear. no recent appearance of Indians. the Indians in this part of the country appear to construct their lodges with the willow boughs and brush; they are small of a conic figure and have a small aperture on one side through which they enter. we continued our rout up this valley on the Lard. side of the river untill sunset, at which time we encamped on the Lard. bank of the river having traveled 24 miles. we had brought with us a good stock of venison of which we eat a hearty supper. I feel myself perfectly recovered of my indisposition, and do not doubt being able to pursue my rout tomorrow with the same comfort I have done today.—we saw some very large beaver dams today in the bottoms of the river several of which wer five feet high and overflowed several acres of land; these dams are formed of willow brush mud and gravel and are so closely interwoven that they resist the water perfectly. the base of this work is thick and rises nearly perpendicularly on the lower side while the upper side or that within the dam is gently sloped. the brush appear to be laid in no regular order yet acquires a strength by the irregularity with which they are placed by the beaver that it would puzzle the engenuity of man to give them.
Friday, August 2, 1805. We started our march this morning at sunrise; the day was clear with a northwest wind. Noticing that the river still flowed south, I decided to cross it if possible to shorten our route. We managed to cross by wading the river about 5 miles above our last evening’s campsite. The current was very swift, waist-deep, and roughly 90 yards wide, with a smooth pebble bottom mixed with some coarse gravel. This is the first time I've dared to wade across the river, although I believe there are many spots between here and the forks where it could be attempted with similar success. The valley we traveled through today, along which the river winds its meandering course, is 6 to 8 miles wide and consists of a beautiful level plain with little timber, mostly confined to the riverbanks. The land is fairly fertile, either black or dark yellow loam, covered with grass ranging from 9 inches to 2 feet tall. The plain gradually rises on either side of the river to the bases of two parallel mountain ranges that define the limits of the plains. The tops of these mountains are still partially covered in snow while we're nearly suffocated by the intense heat of the midday sun in the valley; the nights are so cold that even two blankets don't provide enough warmth. Shortly after crossing the river this morning, Sergeant Gass lost my tomahawk in the thick brush, and we couldn’t find it. I regret losing this useful tool; however, accidents can happen to anyone, and I consoled myself with the thought that it wasn’t the only one we had with us. We encounter old buffalo bones and their droppings throughout the valley, but we have long since abandoned hope of finding those animals in these mountains. We found a great abundance of currants today, two species of which were red, along with yellow, deep purple, and black varieties; there were also black gooseberries and ripe serviceberries, all in perfect condition. We feasted on our wild fruits, especially the yellow currants and the deep purple serviceberries, which I found to be excellent. The serviceberry grows on a small bush and differs from ours only in color, size, and the superior quality of its flavor. It is somewhat larger than ours. Along our way, we saw plenty of deer and antelopes, and we killed two deer. We also saw many tracks of elk and bear but no recent signs of Indians. The Indians in this region seem to build their lodges from willow branches and brush; they are small, cone-shaped, with a small opening on one side for entry. We continued our route up this valley on the left side of the river until sunset, at which point we camped on the left bank after traveling 24 miles. We brought a good supply of venison with us and enjoyed a hearty supper. I feel completely recovered from my earlier illness and have no doubt I’ll continue our journey tomorrow with the same ease I had today. We saw some very large beaver dams in the river bottoms, several of which were five feet high and flooded several acres of land; these dams are built from willow branches, mud, and gravel, and are so tightly woven that they resist the water perfectly. The base of this structure is thick and nearly vertical on the lower side, while the upper side, inside the dam, is gently sloped. The brush appears to be placed without any specific order, yet its irregular arrangement provides strength that would challenge the ingenuity of any human builder.
Capt. Clark continued his rout early this morning. the rapidity of the current was such that his progress was slow, in short it required the utmost exertion of the men to get on, nor could they resist this current by any other means than that of the cord and pole. in the course of the day they passed some villages of burrowing squirrels, saw a number of beaver dams and the inhabitants of them, many young ducks both of the Duckanmallard and the redheaded fishing duck, gees, several rattle snakes, black woodpeckers, and a large gang of Elk; they found the river much crouded with island both large and small and passed a small creek on Stard. side which we called birth Creek. Capt. Clark discovers a tumor rising on the inner side of his ankle this evening which was painfull to him. they incamped in a level bottom on the Lard. side.-
Capt. Clark continued his route early this morning. The speed of the current was such that his progress was slow; it required the full effort of the men to move forward, and they could only fight this current using a cord and pole. During the day, they passed some villages of burrowing squirrels, saw several beaver dams and their inhabitants, many young ducks—both Mallard and redheaded fishing ducks—geese, several rattlesnakes, black woodpeckers, and a large herd of elk. They found the river crowded with islands, both large and small, and passed a small creek on the starboard side, which they named Birth Creek. This evening, Capt. Clark discovered a painful tumor on the inner side of his ankle. They camped in a flat area on the larboard side.
[Clark, August 2, 1805]
August 2nd Friday 1805 a fine day Set out early the river has much the Same kind of banks Chanel Current &c. as it had in the last vallie, I walked out this morning on Shore & Saw Several rattle Snakes in the plain, the wind from the S W we proceeded on with great dificuelty from the rapidity of the current & rapids, abt. 15 miles and Encamped on the Lard Side, saw a large Gangue of Elk at Sunset to the S W. passed a Small Creek on the Stard Side and maney large and Small Islands. Saw a number of young Ducks as we have also Seen everry Day, Some geese I saw Black woodpeckers—I have either got my foot bitten by Some poisonous insect or a turner is riseing on the inner bone of my ankle which is painfull
August 2nd, Friday, 1805. It’s a beautiful day. We set out early; the river has pretty much the same kind of banks, channel, current, etc., as it did in the last valley. I went for a walk on shore this morning and saw several rattlesnakes in the plain. The wind is coming from the southwest, and we continued on with great difficulty due to the fast current and rapids, covering about 15 miles before making camp on the left side. I spotted a large group of elk at sunset to the southwest. We passed a small creek on the right side, along with many large and small islands. I saw a number of young ducks, which we have also seen every day, and a few geese. I also noticed some black woodpeckers. I think I've either been bitten by a poisonous insect or there’s a painful bump developing on the inner bone of my ankle.
[Lewis, August 3, 1805]
August the 3rd 1805. Set out this morning at sunrise and continued our rout through the valley on the Lard. side of the river. at eleven A.M. Drewyer killed a doe and we halted and took breakfast. the mountains continue high on either side of the valley, and are but skantily supplyed with timber; small pine appears to be the prevalent growth. there is no timber in the valley except a small quantity of the narrow leafed cottonwood on the verge of the river. the underwood consists of the narrowleafed or small willow, honeysuckle rosebushes, courant, goosbury and service bury bushes allso a small quantity of a species of dwarf burch the leaf of which, oval, deep green, finely indented and very small. we encamped this evening after sunset having traveled by estimate 23 miles. from the width and appearance of the valley at this place I concieved that the river forked not far above me and therefore resolved the next morning to examine the adjacent country more minutely.
August 3rd, 1805. We set out this morning at sunrise and continued our route through the valley on the left side of the river. At 11 A.M., Drewyer shot a doe, and we paused for breakfast. The mountains rise steeply on both sides of the valley and have very little timber; small pines seem to be the main type of tree here. There’s no timber in the valley except for a small amount of narrow-leafed cottonwood along the river's edge. The underbrush includes narrow-leafed or small willows, honeysuckle rosebushes, currants, gooseberries, and serviceberry bushes, along with a small amount of a type of dwarf birch whose leaves are oval, deep green, finely serrated, and very small. We camped this evening after sunset, having traveled an estimated 23 miles. From the width and appearance of the valley at this spot, I thought the river forked not far above, so I decided to explore the nearby area more closely the next morning.
[Lewis, August 3, 1805]
Saturday August 3rd 1805. Set out early this morning, or before sunrise; still continued our march through the level valley on the lard. side of the river. the valley much as yesterday only reather wider; I think it 12 Miles wide, tho the plains near the mountains rise higher and are more broken with some scattering pine near the mountain. in the leaveler parts of the plain and river bottoms which are very extensive there is no timber except a scant proportion of cottonwood neat the river. the under wood consists of the narrow leafed or small willow, the small honeysuckle, rosebushes, currant, serviceberry, and goosbery bushes; also a small species of berth in but small quantities the leaf which is oval finely, indented, small and of a deep green colour. the stem is simple ascending and branching, and seldom rises higher than 10 or 12 feet. the Mountains continue high on either side of the valley, and are but scantily supplyed with timber; small pine apears to be the prevalent growth; it is of the pith kind, with a short leaf. at 11 A.M. Drewyer killed a doe and we halted about 2 hours and breakfasted, and then continued our rout untill night without halting, when we arrived at the river in a level bottom which appeared to spread to greater extent than usual. from the appearance of the timber I supposed that the river forked above us and resolved to examine this part of the river minutely tomorrow. this evening we passed through a high plain for about 8 miles covered with prickley pears and bearded grass, tho we found this even better walking than the wide bottoms of the river, which we passed in the evening; these altho apparently level, from some cause which I know not, were formed into meriads of deep holes as if rooted up by hogs these the grass covered so thick that it was impossible to walk without the risk of falling down at every step. some parts of these bottoms also possess excellent terf or peat, I beleive of many feet deep. the mineral salts also frequently mentioned on the Missouri we saw this evening in these uneven bottoms. we saw many deer, Antelopes ducks, gees, some beaver and great appearance of their work. also a small bird and the Curlooe as usual. we encamped on the river bank on Lard. side having traveled by estimate 23 Miles. The fish of this part of the river are trout and a species of scale fish of a white colour and a remarkable small long mouth which one of our men inform us are the same with the species called in the Eastern states bottlenose. the snowey region of the mountains and for some distance below has no timber or herbage of any kind; the timber is confined to the lower and middle regions. Capt. Clark set out this morning as usual. he walked on shore a small distance this morning and killed a deer. in the course of his walk he saw a track which he supposed to be that of an Indian from the circumstance of the large toes turning inward. he pursued the track and found that the person had ascended a point of a hill from which his camp of the last evening was visible; this circumstance also confirmed the beleif of it's being an Indian who had thus discovered them and ran off. they found the river as usual much crouded with islands, the currant more rapid & much more shallow than usual. in many places they were obliged to double man the canoes and drag them over the stone and gravel. this morning they passed a small creek on Stard. at the entrance of which Reubin Fields killed a large Panther. we called the creek after that animal Panther Creek. they also passed a handsome little stream on Lard. which is form of several large springs which rise in the bottoms and along the base of the mountains with some little rivulets from the melting snows. the beaver have formed many large dams on this stream. they saw some deer Antelopes and the common birds of the country. in the evening they passed a very bad rappid where the bed of the river is formed entrely of solid rock and encamped on an island just above. the Panther which Fields killed measured seven and 1/2 feet from the nose to the extremity of the tail. it is precisely the same animal common to the western part of our country. the men wer compelled to be a great proportion of their time in the water today; they have had a severe days labour and are much fortiegued.
Saturday, August 3rd, 1805. We set out early this morning, just before sunrise; we continued our march through the flat valley on the left side of the river. The valley was much like yesterday but a bit wider; I estimate it to be about 12 miles wide, although the plains near the mountains rise higher and are more uneven with some scattered pine near the mountains. In the flatter parts of the plains and river bottoms, which are very extensive, there is little timber except for a small amount of cottonwood near the river. The underbrush consists of narrow-leafed or small willows, small honeysuckle, rose bushes, currant, serviceberry, and gooseberry bushes; there is also a small species of birch, but in small quantities, with oval, finely indented leaves that are deep green. The stem is simple, upright, and branching, and rarely grows higher than 10 or 12 feet. The mountains continue high on either side of the valley and are sparsely supplied with timber; small pine seems to be the prevalent growth; it is of the pitch kind, with short leaves. At 11 A.M., Drewyer killed a doe, and we halted for about 2 hours to have breakfast, then continued our route until night without stopping, when we reached the river in a flat area that appeared to spread wider than usual. From the look of the timber, I suspected that the river forked above us and decided to closely examine that part of the river tomorrow. This evening, we passed through a high plain for about 8 miles covered with prickly pears and bearded grass, although we found this easier to walk on than the wide river bottoms we passed through in the evening; these, while seemingly level, were formed into numerous deep holes as if uprooted by hogs, and the grass covered them so thickly that it was impossible to walk without the risk of falling at every step. Some areas of these bottoms also had excellent turf or peat, which I believe is several feet deep. The mineral salts frequently mentioned on the Missouri were also seen this evening in these uneven bottoms. We spotted many deer, antelopes, ducks, geese, some beavers, and clear signs of their activity. We also saw a small bird and the curlew, as usual. We set up camp on the riverbank on the left side, having traveled approximately 23 miles. The fish in this part of the river are trout and a species of white-scaled fish with a remarkably small long mouth, which one of our men told us is the same species called bottlenose in the eastern states. The snowy region of the mountains and for a distance below has no timber or vegetation of any kind; the timber is limited to the lower and middle regions. Capt. Clark set out this morning as usual. He walked along the shore a small distance and killed a deer. During his walk, he noticed a track he assumed was that of an Indian because of the large toes turning inward. He followed the track and found that the person had gone up a hill from which they could see his camp from the previous evening; this supported the belief that it was an Indian who had discovered them and ran off. As usual, they found the river crowded with islands, the current more rapid and much shallower than before. In many places, they had to double-man the canoes and drag them over rocks and gravel. This morning they passed a small creek at which Reubin Fields killed a large panther. We named the creek Panther Creek. They also passed a nice little stream on the left, formed by several large springs that rise in the bottoms and along the base of the mountains, with small rivulets from melting snow. The beavers have built many large dams on this stream. They saw some deer, antelopes, and the common birds of the area. In the evening, they encountered a very rough rapid where the riverbed was entirely solid rock and camped on an island just above it. The panther that Fields killed measured seven and a half feet from nose to tail. It is exactly the same animal common in the western part of our country. The men were compelled to spend a large portion of their time in the water today; they had a hard day's work and were quite fatigued.
[Clark, August 3, 1805]
August 3rd Saturday1805 a fine morning wind from the N E I walked on Shore & killed a Deer in my walk I saw a fresh track which I took to be an Indian from the Shape of the foot as the toes turned in, I think it probable that this Indian Spied our fires and Came to a Situation to view us from the top of a Small knob on the Lard Side. the river more rapid and Sholey than yesterday one R. F. man killed a large Panthor on the Shore we are oblige to haul over the Canoes Sholey in maney places where the Islands are noumerous and bottom Sholey, in the evening the river more rapid and Sholey we encamped on an Island avove a part of the river which passed thro a rockey bed enclosed on both sides with thick willow current & red buries &c &c passed a bold Stream which heads in the mountains to our right and the drean of the minting Snow in the Montn. on that side ar in View—at 4 oClock passed a bold Stream which falls from a mountn in three Channels to our left, the Greater portion of the Snow on this mountain is melted, but little remaining near us Some Deer Elk & antelopes & Bear in the bottoms. but fiew trees and they Small the Mountains on our left Contain pine those on our right but verry partially Supplied and what pine & cedar it has is on the Lower region, no wood being near the Snow. great numbers of Beaver Otter &c. Some fish trout & and bottle nose. Birds as usial. Geese young Ducks & Curlows
August 3rd, Saturday, 1805. It was a beautiful morning with a breeze from the northeast. I walked along the shore and killed a deer. During my walk, I noticed a fresh track that I guessed belonged to an Indian because the shape of the foot had the toes turned in. I believe this Indian spotted our fires and came to a spot to watch us from the top of a small hill on the left side. The river is flowing more rapidly and is shallower than yesterday. One of our men killed a large panther on the shore. We have to haul the canoes over shallow areas in many places where there are numerous islands and the bottom is shallow. In the evening, the river is still more rapid and shallow, so we set up camp on an island above a section of the river that flows through a rocky bed, surrounded on both sides by thick willows, currents, and red berries, among other things. We passed a strong stream that flows from the mountains to our right, and we can see the melting snow on that side. At 4 o'clock, we encountered another strong stream that comes down from the mountain in three channels to our left. Most of the snow on this mountain has melted, with only a little remaining nearby. There are some deer, elk, antelope, and bears in the bottoms, but few trees, and they are small. The mountains on our left have pine trees, while those on our right are very sparsely covered, and any pine and cedar found there are in the lower areas, with no wood near the snow. There are great numbers of beavers, otters, etc. Some fish, such as trout and bottle-nosed ones, can be found. Birds, as usual: geese, young ducks, and curlews.
[Lewis, August 4, 1805]
August 4th 1805. Set out very early this morning and steered S. E. by E. about 4 Miles when we passed a bould runing creek about 12 yards wide the water could and remarkably clear, we then changed our course to S. E. passing obliquely across a valley which boar nearly E leaving the valley which we had pursued for the 2 precedeing days. at the distance of 3 miles we passed a handsome little river which passes through this valley; it is about 30 yards wide affords a considerable quantity of water and I believe it may be navigated some miles. I then changed my rout to S. W. passed a high plain which lyes between the vallies and returned to the S. valley, in passing which I fell in with a river about 45 yards wide which I waideg and then continued my rout down to it's junction with the river just mentioned, and from thence to the entrance of the creek which falls in about 2 miles below; still continuing my rout down this stream about three miles further and about 2 M. below our encampment of the last evening this river forms a junction with a river 50 yards wide which comes from the N. W. and falling into the S. valley runs parrallel with the middle fork about 12 miles. this is a bould rappid & clear stream it's bed so broken and obstructed by gravel bars and Islands that it appeared to me impossible to navigate it with safety. the middle fork is gentle and possesses about 2/3ds as much water as this rappid stream, it's cours so far as I can observe it is about S. W. and it appears to be navigable; its water is much warmer than that of the rappid fork and somewhat turbid, from which I concluded that it had it's source at a greater distance in the mountains and passed through an opener country than the other. under this impression I wrote a note to Capt. Clark recommending his taking the middle fork provided he should arrive at this place before my return which I expect will be the day after tomorrow. the note I left on a pole at the forks of the river and having refreshed ourselves and eat heartily of some venison we killed this morning I continued my rout up the Stard side of the N. W. fork, determining to pursue it untill 12 OC. the next day and then pass over to the middle fork and return to their junction or untill I met Capt. Clark. we encamped this evening near the point where the river leaves the valley and enters the mountains, having traveled about 20 miles.-
August 4th, 1805. We set out very early this morning and headed Southeast by East for about 4 miles until we passed a bouldering creek about 12 yards wide. The water was cool and remarkably clear. We then changed our course to Southeast, crossing a valley that extended nearly East, leaving the valley we had been following for the previous two days. After 3 miles, we passed a lovely little river flowing through this valley; it is about 30 yards wide, carries a considerable amount of water, and I believe it can be navigated for some miles. I then changed my route to Southwest, passing a high plain that lies between the valleys and returning to the Southern valley. While crossing, I encountered a river about 45 yards wide, which I waded through, and continued downstream to its junction with the previously mentioned river. From there, I went to the entrance of the creek that joins about 2 miles below. Continuing down this stream for about three more miles, and roughly 2 miles below our camp from last night, this river meets another river that's 50 yards wide, which comes from the Northwest and flows into the Southern valley, running parallel to the middle fork for about 12 miles. This is a turbulent, clear stream with a bed so broken and obstructed by gravel bars and islands that it seemed impossible to navigate safely. The middle fork is gentle and has about two-thirds as much water as this turbulent stream; its course, as far as I can see, is about Southwest, and it looks navigable. Its water is much warmer than that of the turbulent fork and somewhat murky, leading me to conclude that it starts farther away in the mountains and passes through a more open landscape than the other. With this in mind, I wrote a note to Captain Clark, recommending that he take the middle fork if he arrived at this spot before I returned, which I expect will be the day after tomorrow. I left the note on a pole at the river forks, and after refreshing ourselves and enjoying some venison we had killed that morning, I continued my route up the starboard side of the Northwest fork, planning to follow it until 12 o'clock the next day and then cross over to the middle fork and return to their junction or until I met Captain Clark. We camped this evening near the spot where the river leaves the valley and enters the mountains, having traveled about 20 miles.
[Lewis, August 4, 1805]
Sunday August 4th 1805. Set out very early this morning and Steered S. E. by E. 4 M. when we pased a bold runing Creek 12 yds. wide, the water of which was clear and very cold. it appears to be formed by four dranes from the snowey mountains to our left. after passing this creek we changed our direction to S. E. passing obliquely across a valley which boar E leaving the valley we had pursued for the two peceeding days. at the distance of 3 Ms. we passed a handsome little river which meanders through this valley; it is about 30 yds wide, affords a considerable quantity of water and appears as if it might be navigated some miles. the currant is not rapid nor the water very clear; the banks are low and the bed formed of stone and gravel. I now changed my rout to S. W. passed a high plain which lies betwen the valleies and returned to the South valley, in passing which I fell in with a river about 45 yds. wide gravley bottom gentle currant waist deep and water of a whitish blue tinge. this stream we waded and continued our rout down it to the entrance of the river just mentioned about 3/4 of a mile. still continuing down we passed the entrance of the creek about 2 miles lower down; and at the distance of three miles further arrived at it's junction with a river 50 yds. wide which Comes from the S. W. and falling into the South valley runs parallel with the middle fork about 12 miles before it forms a junction. I now found that our encampment of the last evening was about 11/2 miles above the entrance of this large river on Stard. this is a bold rappid and Clear Stream, it's bed so much broken and obstructed by gravley bars and it's waters so much subdivided by Islands that it appears to me utterly impossible to navigate it with safety. the middle fork is gentle and possesses about 2/3rds as much water as this stream. it's course so far as I can observe it is about S. W., and from the opening of the valley I beleive it still bears more to the West above it may be safely navigated. it's water is much warmer then the rapid fork and it's water more turbid; from which I conjecture that it has it's sources at a greater distance in the mountains and passes through an opener country than the other. under this impression I wrote a note to Capt Clark, recommending his taking the middle fork povided he should arrive at this place before my return, which I expect will be the day after tomorrow. this note I left on a pole at the forks of the river, and having refreshed ourselves and eat heartily of some venison which we killed this morning we continued our rout up the rapid fork on the Stard side, resolving to pursue this stream untill noon tomorrow and then pass over to the middle fork and come down it to their junction or untill I meet Capt Clark. I have seen no recent Indian sign in the course of my rout as yet. Charbono complains much of his leg, and is the cause of considerable detention to us. we encamped on the river bank near the place at which it leaves the valley and enters the mountain having traveled about 23 miles. we saw some Antelopes deer Grains, gees, and ducks of the two species common to this country. the summer duck has ceased to appear, nor do I beleive it is an inhabitant of this part of the country. the timber &c is as heretofore tho there is more in this valley on the rapid fork than we have seen in the same extent on the river since we entered this valley. the Indians appear on some parts of the river to have distroyed a great proportion of the little timber which there is by seting fire to the bottoms. This morning Capt. Clark set out at sunrise, and sent two hunters ahead to kill some meat. at 8 A.M. he arrived at my camp of the 2ed inst. where he breakfasted; here he found a note which I had left for him at that place informing him of the occurences of my rout &c. the river continued to be crouded with Islands, rapid and shoaly. these shoals or riffles succeeded each other every 3 or four hundred yards; at those places they are obliged to drag the canoes over the stone there not being water enough to float them, and betwen the riffles the current is so strong that they are compelled to have cecourse to the cord; and being unable to walk on the shore for the brush wade in the river along the shore and hawl them by the cord; this has increased the pain and labour extreemly; their feet soon get tender and soar by wading and walking over the stones. these are also so slipry that they frequently get severe falls. being constantly wet soon makes them feble also. their hunters killed 2 deer today and some gees and ducks wer killed by those who navigated the canoes. they saw deer antelopes Grains beaver Otter &c. Capt. Clark's ancle became so painfull to him that he was unable to walk.—This evening they encamped on the Stard. side in a bottom of cottonwood timber all much fatiegued.
Sunday, August 4th, 1805. We set out very early this morning, steering Southeast by East for 4 miles until we passed a bold, fast-flowing creek that was 12 yards wide, with clear, very cold water. It looks like it’s formed by four streams coming down from the snowy mountains to our left. After passing this creek, we changed our direction to Southeast, crossing a valley that lay to the east, leaving the valley we had traveled for the past two days. After 3 miles, we passed a lovely little river that winds through the valley; it is about 30 yards wide, carries a good amount of water, and seems navigable for several miles. The current isn’t fast, and the water isn’t very clear; the banks are low, and the riverbed is made of stone and gravel. I then changed my route to Southwest, passing a high plain that lies between the valleys and returning to the South valley. On my way, I came across a river about 45 yards wide with a gravel bottom, gentle current, waist-deep water, and water that has a whitish-blue tint. We waded through this stream and continued our route down it for about three-quarters of a mile. Continuing downstream, we passed the entrance of the creek about 2 miles further down and, after another 3 miles, arrived at its junction with a river 50 yards wide, which comes from the Southwest and flows into the South valley, running parallel to the middle fork for about 12 miles before they meet. I now realized that our camp from last evening was about a mile and a half above the entrance of this large river on the starboard side. This is a bold, rapid, and clear stream, with a bed that is significantly broken and obstructed by gravel bars, and its waters are so divided by islands that it seems utterly impossible to navigate it safely. The middle fork flows gently and has about two-thirds as much water as this stream. From what I can tell, it flows about Southwest, and from the opening of the valley, I believe it still veers more to the West, which makes me think it can be navigated safely. Its water is much warmer than the rapid fork and more turbid, leading me to speculate that its sources are further away in the mountains and it flows through more open terrain than the other. With this in mind, I wrote a note to Captain Clark, suggesting that he take the middle fork if he arrives here before I return, which I expect will be the day after tomorrow. I left this note on a pole at the forks of the river. After refreshing ourselves and enjoying some venison we hunted this morning, we continued our route up the rapid fork on the starboard side, planning to follow this stream until noon tomorrow and then cross over to the middle fork to come down it to their junction or until I meet Captain Clark. So far, I haven't seen any recent signs of Indians along my route. Charbono is complaining a lot about his leg, which is causing us considerable delays. We camped on the riverbank near the spot where it leaves the valley and enters the mountains, having traveled about 23 miles. We saw some antelope, deer, grain, geese, and ducks of the two species common to this area. The summer duck has stopped appearing, and I don’t think it inhabits this part of the country. The timber, etc., remains as it has been, though there’s more in this valley along the rapid fork than we’ve seen in the same stretch of river since entering this valley. The Indians seem to have destroyed a significant portion of the little timber that exists along the river by setting fire to the bottoms. This morning, Captain Clark set out at sunrise and sent two hunters ahead to get some meat. By 8 A.M., he arrived at my camp from the 2nd, where he had breakfast; he found a note I left for him there, updating him on the happenings of my route, etc. The river continued to be crowded with islands, rapid, and shallow. These shoals or riffles appeared every 300 to 400 yards; in those places, they had to drag the canoes over the rocks because there wasn’t enough water to float them. Between the riffles, the current was so strong that they had to use a cord; unable to walk on the shore due to the brush, they waded in the river and pulled them along with the cord. This greatly increased their pain and labor; their feet quickly became tender and sore from wading and walking over the stones. The stones were also slippery, causing them to fall hard often. Being constantly wet soon made them weak as well. Their hunters killed 2 deer today, and some geese and ducks were harvested by those navigating the canoes. They saw deer, antelope, grain, beaver, otter, etc. Captain Clark’s ankle became so painful that he was unable to walk. This evening, they camped on the starboard side in a cottonwood bottom, all very fatigued.
[Clark, August 4, 1805]
August 4th Sunday 1805 a fine morning cool proceeded on verry early and Brackfast at the Camp Capt Lewis left yesterday morning, at this Camp he left a note informing that he discovered no fresh Sign of Indians &c. The river continued to be crouded with Islands Sholey rapid & clear, I could not walk on Shore to day as my ankle was Sore from a turner on that part. the method we are compelled to take to get on is fatigueing & laborious in the extreen, haul the Canoes over the rapids, which Suckceed each other every two or three hundred yards and between the water rapid oblige to towe & walke on Stones the whole day except when we have poleing men wet all day Sore feet &c. &c Murcury at Sun rise 49 a. 0,
August 4th, Sunday, 1805. It was a nice, cool morning. We got started very early and had breakfast at the camp. Captain Lewis left yesterday morning. At this camp, he left a note saying that he hadn't found any fresh signs of Indians, etc. The river was still crowded with islands, shallow, fast, and clear. I couldn't walk on shore today because my ankle was sore from a twist to that area. The method we have to use to get along is exhausting and incredibly labor-intensive; we have to haul the canoes over the rapids, which occur every two or three hundred yards. In between the rapids, we have to tow and walk on stones all day, except when we have men using poles. We’re wet all day, dealing with sore feet, etc. Mercury at sunrise was 49 degrees.
[Lewis, August 5, 1805]
Monday August 5th 1805 As Charbono complained of being unable to march far today I ordered him and Sergt. Gass to pass the rappid river near our camp and proceed at their leasure through the level bottom to a point of high timber about seven miles distant on the middle fork which was in view; I gave them my pack that of Drewyer and the meat which we had, directing them to remain at that place untill we joined them. I took Drewyer with me and continued my rout up the stard. side of the river about 4 miles and then waded it; found it so rapid and shallow that it was impossible to navigate it. continued up it on the Lard. side about 11/2 miles further when the mountains put in close on both sides and arrose to great hight, partially covered with snow. from hence the course of the river was to the East of North. I took the advantage of a high projecting spur of the mountain which with some difficulty we ascended to it's summit in about half an hour. from this eminance I had a pleasing view of the valley through which I had passed many miles below and the continuation of the middle fork through the valley equally wide above me to the distance of about 20 miles when that also appeared to enter the mountains and disappeared to my view; however the mountains which termineate the valley in this direction appeared much lower than those up either of the other forks. on the rapid fork they appeared still to rise the one range towering above another as far as I could perceive them. the middle fork as I suspected dose bear considerably to the West of South and the gap formed by it in the mountains after the valley terminates is in the same direction. under these circumstances I did not hesitate in beleiving the middle fork the most proper for us to ascend. about South from me, the middle fork approached within about 5 miles. I resolved to pass across the plains to it and return to Gass and Charbono, accordingly we set out and decended the mountain among some steep and difficult precipices of rocks. here Drewyer missed his step and had a very dangerous fall, he sprained one of his fingers and hirt his leg very much. in fifteen or 20 minutes he was able to proceed and we continued our rout to the river where we had desighned to interscept it. I quenched my thirst and rested a few minutes examined the river and found it still very navi-gable. an old indian road very large and plain leads up this fork, but I could see no tracks except those of horses which appeared to have passed early in the spring. as the river mad a great bend to the South East we again ascended the high plain and steered our course as streight as we could to the point where I had directed Gass and Sharbono to remain. we passed the plain regained the bottom and struck the river about 3 miles above them; by this time it was perfectly dark & we hooped but could hear no tidings of them. we had struck the river at the point of timber to which I had directed them, but having mistaken a point of woods lower down, had halted short of the place. we continued our rout after dark down the bottom through thick brush of the pulppy leafed thorn and prickly pears for about 2 hours when we arrived at their camp. they had a small quantity of meat left which Drewyer and myself eat it being the first we had taisted today. we had traveled about 25 miles. I soon laid down and slept very soundly untill morning. I saw no deer today nor any game except a few Antelopes which were very shy. the soil of the plains is a light yellow clay very meager and intermixed with a large proportion of gravel, producing nothing except the twisted or bearded grass, sedge and prickly pears. the dryer parts of the bottoms are also much more indifferent in point of soil to those below and are covered with the southernwood pulpy leafed thorn and prickley pears with but little grass. the moist parts are fertile and covered with fine grass and sand rushes.
Monday, August 5th, 1805. Since Charbono complained about not being able to march far today, I ordered him and Sgt. Gass to cross the rapid river near our camp and make their way at their own pace through the flat area to a point of tall timber about seven miles away on the middle fork, which was visible. I gave them my pack, Drewyer's pack, and the meat we had, instructing them to stay there until we rejoined them. I took Drewyer with me and continued along the river's starboard side for about four miles before wading across. I found it too fast and shallow to navigate. I continued upstream on the left side for another 1.5 miles when the mountains closed in on both sides, rising to great heights and partly covered with snow. From there, the river's course veered to the east of north. I took advantage of a high ridge of the mountain, which we climbed with some effort to reach the summit in about half an hour. From this high point, I enjoyed a nice view of the valley I had passed many miles below and saw the middle fork continuing through the valley, which widened above me for about 20 miles before it also seemed to enter the mountains and disappeared from my sight. However, the mountains that defined the valley in this direction looked much lower than those along the other forks. On the rapid fork, they appeared to rise in towering ranges as far as I could see. As I suspected, the middle fork does curve considerably to the west of south, and the gap it forms in the mountains after the valley ends is in the same direction. Given these circumstances, I was convinced that the middle fork was the best route for us to take. About south of me, the middle fork came within five miles. I decided to cross the plains to it and return to Gass and Charbono; we set out and descended the mountain among steep and treacherous rocky cliffs. Here, Drewyer lost his footing and took a dangerous fall; he sprained a finger and hurt his leg badly. After about 15 or 20 minutes, he was able to continue, and we made our way to the river where we planned to intercept it. I quenched my thirst and rested for a few minutes while checking the river, finding it still very navigable. An old Indian road, wide and clear, leads up this fork, but I saw no tracks except for those of horses that seemed to have passed early in the spring. As the river took a sharp bend to the southeast, we climbed back up to the high plain and headed straight to the spot I had directed Gass and Charbono to stay. We crossed the plain, returned to the bottom, and reached the river about three miles above them; by this time, it was perfectly dark, and we hoped to hear from them but received no news. We had reached the river at the timber point I had directed them to, but having misidentified a point of woods lower down, we had stopped short of the exact location. We continued our route after dark down the bottom through thick brush of pulpy-leafed thorn and prickly pears for about two hours until we reached their camp. They had a small amount of meat left, which Drewyer and I ate as it was the first food we had tasted today. We had traveled about 25 miles. I soon laid down and slept soundly until morning. I didn't see any deer today or any game except for a few antelopes that were very skittish. The soil of the plains is a light yellow clay, very poor and mixed with a lot of gravel, producing nothing but twisted or bearded grass, sedge, and prickly pears. The drier parts of the bottoms are also much poorer in soil quality than those below and are covered with southernwood, pulpy-leafed thorn, and prickly pears with very little grass. The moist areas are fertile and full of nice grass and sand rushes.
This morning Capt. Clark set out at sunrise and dispatched Joseph & Reubin Fields to hunt. they killed two deer on one of which the party breakfasted. the river today they found streighter and more rapid even than yesterday, and the labour and difficulty of the navigation was proportionably increased, they therefore proceeded but slowly and with great pain as the men had become very languid from working in the water and many of their feet swolen and so painfull that they could scarcely walk. at 4 P.M. they arrived at the confluence of the two rivers where I had left the note. this note had unfortunately been placed on a green pole which the beaver had cut and carried off together with the note; the possibility of such an occurrence never one occurred to me when I placed it on the green pole. this accedent deprived Capt. Clark of any information with ripect to the country and supposing that the rapid fork was most in the direction which it was proper we should pursue, or West, he took that stream and asscended it with much difficulty about a mile and encamped on an island that had been lately overflown and was yet damp; they were therefore compelled to make beds of brush to keep themselves out of the mud. in ascending this stream for about a quarter of a mile it scattered in such a maner that they were obliged to cut a passage through the willow brush which leant over the little channels and united their tops. Capt. Clarks ankle is extreemly painfull to him this evening; the tumor has not yet mature, he has a slight fever.—The men were so much fortiegued today that they wished much that navigation was at an end that they might go by land.-
This morning, Capt. Clark set out at sunrise and sent Joseph and Reubin Fields to hunt. They killed two deer, and the group had one for breakfast. Today, they found the river to be straighter and faster than yesterday, which increased the difficulty of navigation. As a result, they proceeded slowly and with great effort because the men were very fatigued from working in the water, and many of their feet were swollen and so painful that they could barely walk. At 4 P.M., they arrived at the confluence of the two rivers where I had left the note. Unfortunately, the note had been placed on a green pole that a beaver had cut down and carried off along with the note; I never considered that this could happen when I set it on the green pole. This incident deprived Capt. Clark of any information regarding the area, and assuming that the rapid fork was the best direction to take, or west, he chose that stream and ascended it with much difficulty for about a mile, then camped on an island that had recently been flooded and was still damp. They were forced to make beds of brush to stay out of the mud. As they went up this stream for about a quarter of a mile, it spread out so much that they had to cut a path through the willow brush that leaned over the small channels and connected their tops. Capt. Clark's ankle is extremely painful this evening; the swelling has not yet subsided, and he has a slight fever. The men were so worn out today that they really wished the navigation was over so they could go by land.
[Clark, August 5, 1805]
August 5th Monday 1805 a Cold Clear morning the wind from the S. E. the river Streight & much more rapid than yesterday, I Sent out Jo. & R. Fields to kill Some meat they killed 2 Deer & we brackfast on one of them and proceeded on with great dificuelety from the rapidity of the Current, and numerable rapids we had to encounter, at 4 oClock P M Murcury 49 ab. 0, passed the mouth of principal fork which falls in on the Lard. Side, this fork is about the Size of the Stard. one less water reather not so rapid, its Course as far as can be Seen is S. E & appear to pass through between two mountains, the N W. fork being the one most in our course i. e. S 25 W. as far as I can See, deturmind me to take this fork as the principal and the one most proper the S E fork is of a Greenish Colour & contains but little timber. The S W fok contains more timber than is below for Some distance, we assended this fork about one mile and Encamped on an Island which had been laterly overflown & was wet we raised our bead on bushes, we passed a part of the river above the forks which was divided and Scattered thro the willows in Such a manner as to render it dificuelt to pass through for a 1/4 of a mile, we wer oblige to Cut our way thro the willows—Men much fatigued from their excessive labours in hauling the Canoes over the rapids &c. verry weak being in the water all day. my foot verry painfull
August 5th, Monday, 1805: It was a cold, clear morning with the wind coming from the southeast. The river was straight and much faster than yesterday. I sent Jo and R. Fields out to hunt some meat; they killed two deer. We had breakfast on one of them and continued on with great difficulty due to the swift current and numerous rapids we had to face. At 4 PM, the mercury read about 49 degrees. We passed the mouth of the main fork, which joins from the left side. This fork is about the same size as the right one but has less water and isn’t as rapid. Its course, as far as I can see, is southeast and it seems to pass between two mountains. The northwest fork is the one that’s mainly in our direction, that is, S 25 W as far as I can tell. I decided to take this fork as the main route since it seemed more suitable. The southeast fork appears green and has little timber. The southwest fork has more timber than what we've seen below for some distance. We traveled up this fork for about a mile and camped on an island that had recently been flooded and was wet. We raised our beds on bushes. We passed a section of the river above the forks that was divided and scattered through the willows, making it difficult to navigate for about a quarter of a mile. We had to cut our way through the willows. The men were very fatigued from their hard work hauling the canoes over the rapids, feeling very weak after being in the water all day. My foot was very painful.
Assended the N W Fork 9 miles on a Course S. 30° W. to a Bluff on the Stard. Side passed Several Bayous & Islands
Assended the NW Fork 9 miles on a course of S. 30° W. to a bluff on the starboard side, passing several bayous and islands.
[Lewis, August 6, 1805]
Tuesday August 6th 1805. We set out this morning very early on our return to the forks. having nothing to eat I set Drewyer to the woodlands to my left in order to kill a deer, sent Sergt. Gass to the right with orders to keep sufficiently near to discover Capt. C. and the party should they be on their way up that stream, and with Sharbono I directed my course to the main forks through the bottom directing the others to meet us there. about five miles above the forks I head the hooping of the party to my left and changed my rout towards them; on my arrival found that they had taken the rapid fork and learnt from Capt. Clark that he had not found the note which I had left for him at that place and the reasons which had induced him to ascend this stream. it was easeist & more in our direction, and apd. to contain as much water he had hoever previously to my comeing up with him, met Drewyer who informed him of the state of the two rivers and was on his return. one of their canoes had just overset and all the baggage wet, the medecine box among other articles and several articles lost a shot pouch and horn with all the implements for one rifle lost and never recovered. I walked down to the point where I waited their return. on their arrival found that two other canoes had filled with water and wet their cargoes completely. Whitehouse had been thrown out of one of the canoes as she swing in a rapid current and the canoe had rubed him and pressed him to the bottom as she passed over him and had the water been 2 inches shallower must inevitably have crushed him to death. our parched meal, corn, Indian preasents, and a great part of our most valuable stores were wet and much damaged on this ocasion. to examine, dry and arrange our stores was the first object; we therefore passed over to the lard. side opposite to the entrance of the rapid fork where there was a large gravly bar that answered our purposes; wood was also convenient and plenty. here we fixed our camp, and unloaded all our canoes and opened and exposed to dry such articles as had been wet. a part of the load of each canoe consisted of the leaden canestirs of powder which were not in least injured, tho some of them had remained upwards of an hour under water. about 20 lbs. of powder which we had in a tight Keg or at least one which we thought sufficiently so got wet and intirely spoiled. this would have been the case with the other had it not have been for the expedient which I had fallen on of securing the powder by means of the lead having the latter formed into canesters which were filled with the necessary proportion of poder to discharge the lead when used, and those canesters well secured with corks and wax. in this country the air is so pure and dry that any vessel however well seasoned the timber may be will give way or shrink unless it is kept full of some liquid. we found that three deer skins which we had left at a considerable hight on a tree were taken off which we supposed had been done by a panther. we sent out some men to hunt this evening, they killed 3 deer and four Elk which gave us a plentifull supply of meat once more. Shannon had been dispatched up the rapid fork this morning to hunt, by Capt Clark before he met with Drewyer or learnt his mistake in the rivers. when he returned he sent Drewyer in surch of him, but he rejoined us this evening and reported that he had been several miles up the river and could find nothing of him. we had the trumpet sounded and fired several guns but he did not join us this evening. I am fearful he is lost again. this is the same man who was seperated from us 15 days as we came up the Missouri and subsisted 9 days of that time on grapes only. Whitehouse is in much pain this evening with the injury one of his legs sustained from the canoe today at the time it upset and swing over him. Capt Clarks ankle is also very painfull to him.—we should have given the party a days rest some where near this place had not this accedent happened, as I had determined to take some observations to fix the Latitude and longitude of these forks. our merchandize medecine &c are not sufficiently dry this evening we covered them securely for the evening. Capt Clark had ascended the river about 9 miles from this place on a course of S 30° W. before he met with Drewyer.
Tuesday, August 6th, 1805. We set out this morning very early on our return to the forks. Having nothing to eat, I sent Drewyer to the woods to my left to hunt a deer and sent Sgt. Gass to the right with orders to stay close enough to spot Capt. Clarke and the party if they were coming up that stream. With Sharbono, I headed toward the main forks through the bottom, directing the others to meet us there. About five miles above the forks, I heard the party calling to my left, so I changed my route toward them. Upon my arrival, I found they had taken the rapid fork and learned from Capt. Clarke that he had not found the note I left for him at that location, which explained why he decided to go up this stream. It was easier and more in our direction and seemed to have as much water. However, before I caught up with him, he had met Drewyer, who informed him about the state of the two rivers and was on his way back. One of their canoes had just capsized, soaking all the baggage, including the medicine box and several other items. A shot pouch and horn were lost along with all the implements for one rifle, which were never recovered. I walked down to where I waited for their return. When they arrived, I found that two other canoes had filled with water and ruined their cargoes completely. Whitehouse had been thrown out of one of the canoes as it swung in a rapid current, and the canoe had rolled over him. If the water had been just two inches shallower, it would have crushed him to death. Our parched meal, corn, Indian presents, and a significant part of our most valuable supplies were soaked and badly damaged during this incident. Examining, drying, and organizing our supplies was our top priority; we moved to the left bank opposite the entrance of the rapid fork, where there was a large gravel bar that suited our needs, and wood was nearby and plentiful. Here, we set up camp, unloaded all our canoes, and opened up and exposed the wet items to dry. Each canoe carried lead canisters of powder, which were not damaged at all, though some had been underwater for over an hour. About 20 lbs. of powder stored in a tight keg, or at least one we thought was secure, got soaked and completely spoiled. This would have happened to the rest if it weren't for the idea I had of securing the powder in canisters made of lead, filled with the right amount of powder to discharge the lead when needed, and those canisters were well secured with corks and wax. In this region, the air is so pure and dry that any container, no matter how well-seasoned the wood, will break down or shrink unless it’s kept filled with some liquid. We discovered that three deer skins we had left high up in a tree were taken down, which we suspected was the work of a panther. We sent some men out to hunt this evening, and they killed three deer and four elk, providing us with an ample meat supply once again. Shannon had been sent up the rapid fork to hunt this morning by Capt. Clarke before he met Drewyer or learned about the rivers’ mistake. When he returned, he sent Drewyer to search for him, but he rejoined us this evening, reporting that he had gone several miles up the river without finding anything. We sounded the trumpet and fired several shots, but he did not join us this evening. I'm worried that he is lost again. This is the same man who got separated from us for 15 days while coming up the Missouri and survived nine of those days on grapes alone. Whitehouse is in a lot of pain this evening from the injury to one of his legs caused by the canoe when it capsized and rolled over him. Capt. Clarke's ankle is also very painful to him. We would have given the party a day’s rest somewhere nearby if this accident hadn't happened, as I intended to take some observations to determine the latitude and longitude of these forks. Our merchandise and medicine aren’t dry enough this evening, so we secured them for the night. Capt. Clarke had gone about nine miles up the river from this location on a course of S 30° W before he met Drewyer.
we beleive that the N. W. or rapid fork is the dane of the melting snows of the mountains, and that it is not as long as the middle fork and dose not at all seasons of the year supply any thing like as much water as the other and that about this season it rises to it's greatest hight. this last appears from the apparent bed of the river which is now overflown and the water in many plases spreads through old channels which have their bottoms covered with grass that has grown this season and is such as appears on the parts of the bottom not innundated. we therefore determined that the middle fork was that which ought of right to bear the name we had given to the lower portion or River Jefferson and called the bold rapid an clear stream Wisdom, and the more mild and placid one which flows in from the S. E. Philanthrophy, in commemoration of two of those cardinal virtues, which have so eminently marked that deservedly selibrated character through life.
We believe that the Northwest or rapid fork is the result of the melting snows from the mountains, and that it is not as long as the middle fork and does not supply as much water at any time of the year compared to the other. Around this time, it rises to its highest level. This is evident from the visible riverbed that is currently overflowing, and the water in many places spreads through old channels where the bottoms are covered with grass that has grown this season, similar to what appears in the areas that are not flooded. Therefore, we decided that the middle fork should rightfully bear the name we had given to the lower portion or River Jefferson. We named the bold, rapid, and clear stream Wisdom, and the more gentle and calm one flowing in from the southeast Philanthropy, in honor of two of those cardinal virtues that have so prominently characterized that truly celebrated individual throughout their life.
[Clark, August 6, 1805]
August 6th Tuesday 1805 a Clear morning Cool wind from the S W we proceeded on with much dificuelty and fatigue over rapids & Stones; river about 40 or 50 yards wide much divided by Islands and narrow Bayoos to a low bluff on the Stard Side & Brackfast, dureing the time of Brackfast Drewyer Came to me from Capt. Lewis and informed me that they had explored both forks for 30 or 40 miles & that the one we were assending was impractiabl much further up & turned imediately to the north, The middle fork he reported was jintle and after a Short distanc turned to the S. W. and that all the Indian roades leades up the middle fork. this report deturmind me to take the middle fork, accordingly Droped down to the forks where I met with Capt Lewis & party, Capt Lewis had left a Letter on a pole in the forks informing me what he had discovered & the course of the rivers &c. this lettr was Cut down by the beaver as it was on a green pole & Carried off. Three Skins which was left on a tree was taken off by the Panthers or wolvers. In decending to the Point one Canoe Struck & turned on a rapid & Sunk, and wet every thing which was in her, this misfortune obliged us to halt at the forks and dry those articles, one other Canoe nearly turning over, filled half full of water & wet our medison & Some Goods Corn &c. Several hunters out to day & killed a young Elk, Antilope, & 3 Deer, one man Shannon did not return to night—This evening Cool my anckle much wors than it has been—this evening a Violent wind from the N. W accompanied with rain which lasted half an hour wind N. W
August 6th, Tuesday, 1805: It was a clear morning with a cool wind from the southwest. We moved on with a lot of difficulty and fatigue over rapids and stones. The river was about 40 to 50 yards wide, split up by islands and narrow bayous, leading to a low bluff on the starboard side where we had breakfast. During breakfast, Drewyer came to me from Captain Lewis and informed me that they had explored both forks for 30 to 40 miles. He said that the one we were ascending was impassable much further up and turned immediately north. The middle fork, he reported, was gentle and after a short distance turned southwest, and all the Indian paths led up the middle fork. This report made me decide to take the middle fork, so I dropped down to the forks where I met Captain Lewis and his party. Captain Lewis had left a letter on a pole at the forks explaining what he had discovered and the course of the rivers, etc. Unfortunately, this letter was cut down by a beaver since it was on a green pole and was carried off. Three skins that were left on a tree were taken by panthers or wolverines. While descending to the point, one canoe hit a rapid and overturned, sinking and soaking everything inside. This misfortune forced us to stop at the forks and dry those items. Another canoe nearly capsized, filling halfway with water and getting our medicine and some goods, including corn, wet. Several hunters went out today and killed a young elk, an antelope, and three deer. One man, Shannon, didn't return tonight. This evening was cool, and my ankle is much worse than it has been. A strong wind from the northwest accompanied by rain lasted for half an hour.
[Lewis, August 7, 1805]
Wednesday August 7th 1805. The morning being fair we spread our stores to dry at an early hour. Dispatched Reubin Fields in surch of Shannon. our stores were now so much exhausted that we found we could proceed with one canoe less. we therefore drew out one of them into a thicket of brush and secured her in such manner that the water could not take her off should the river rise to the hight where she is. The creek which falls in above us we called turf creek from the cercustance of it's bottoms being composed of excellent turf. my air gun was out of order and her sights had been removed by some accedent I put her in order and regulated her. she shot again as well as she ever did. The clouds last night prevented my taking any lunar observations this day I took Equal Altitudes of the 0 with Sextant.
Wednesday, August 7, 1805. The morning was nice, so we set out our supplies to dry early on. I sent Reubin Fields to look for Shannon. Our supplies were so low that we realized we could manage with one less canoe. We pulled one into a thicket of brush and secured it in such a way that the water couldn't carry it away if the river rose to its level. The creek that flows in above us is called Turf Creek because its banks are made of excellent turf. My air gun was out of order, and its sights had been removed due to some accident, but I fixed it and adjusted it. It shot just as well as it ever had. The clouds last night prevented me from taking any lunar observations; today, I took equal altitudes of the sun with the sextant.
At one oclock all our baggage was dry we therefore packed it up reloaded the canoes and the party proceeded with Capt. Clark up Jefferson's river. I remained with Sergt. Gass to complete the observation of equal altitudes and joined them in the evening at their camp on the Lard. side just above the entrance of turf creek. we had a shower of rain wich continued about 40 minutes attended with thunder and lightning. this shower wet me perfectly before I reached the camp. the clouds continued during the night in such manner that I was unable to obtain any lunar observations. This evening Drewyer brought in a deer which he had killed. we have not heard any thing from Shannon yet, we expect that he has pursued Wisdom river upwards for som distance probably killed some heavy animal and is waiting our arrival. the large biteing fly or hare fly as they sometimes called are very troublesome to us. I observe two kinds of them a large black species and a small brown species with a green head. the musquetoes are not as troublesome as they were below, but are still in considerable quantities. the eye knats have disappeared. the green or blowing flies are still in swarms.
At one o'clock, all our baggage was dry, so we packed it up, reloaded the canoes, and the group moved on with Captain Clark up Jefferson's River. I stayed behind with Sergeant Gass to finish the observation of equal altitudes and joined them in the evening at their camp on the left side, just above the entrance of Turf Creek. We had a rain shower that lasted about 40 minutes, accompanied by thunder and lightning. I got completely wet before I reached the camp. The clouds persisted throughout the night, making it impossible for me to take any lunar observations. That evening, Drewyer brought in a deer that he had hunted. We haven't heard anything from Shannon yet, but we expect he's moved up Wisdom River for some distance, probably having killed a large animal and is waiting for us. The large biting flies, sometimes called hare flies, are very bothersome. I noticed two types of them: a large black variety and a small brown variety with a green head. The mosquitoes aren't as bothersome as they were further down, but there are still quite a few of them. The eye gnats have disappeared, and the green or blow flies are still swarming.
r the courses from the entrance of Wisdom river to the forks of Jefferson's river are taken directly to the objects mentioned and the distance set down is that by land on a direct line between the points; the estimated distances by water is also added in the body of the remarks on each course.
r the routes from the entrance of Wisdom River to where Jefferson's River splits are measured straight to the mentioned locations, and the distance noted is the land distance in a direct line between the points; the estimated distances by water are also included in the comments on each route.
[Clark, August 7, 1805]
August 7th Wednesday 1805 a fine morning put out our Stores &c. to dry & took equal altitudes with the Sextant,—as our Store were a little exorsted and one Canoe became unnecessary deturmind to leave one. we Hauled her up in the bushes on the lower Side of the main fork & fastened her So that the water could not flote her off. The Countrey in this quarter is as follows i, e a Vallie of 5 or 6 miles wide Inclosed between two high Mountains, the bottom rich Some Small timber on the Islands & bushes on the edges of the river Some Bogs & verry good turf in different places in the vallie, Some scattering Pine & ceder on the mountains in places, other Parts nacked except grass and Stone The Lattitude of the Mouth of Wisdom River is 45° 2' 21.6" North, we proceeded up the Main Middle or S. E. fork, passed a Camped on the Lard. Side above the mouth of a bold running Stream 12 yards wide, which we call turf Creek from the number of bogs & quanty of turf in its waters. this Creek runs thro a open Plain for Several miles, takeing its rise in a high mountain to the N E. The river Jefferson above Wisdom is gentle Crooked and about 40 yards wide, Containing but little timber, Some few Cotton willow Willow & Birch, and the Srubs common to the countrey and before mentioned at 5 oClock a thunder Storm from the N. W. accompanied with rain which lasted about 40 minits.—despatched R Fields to hunt Shannon, who was out huntg. on Wisdom river at the time I returned down that Stream, and has made on up the river expecting us to follow him up that river one Deer killed this evening. all those Streams Contain emence number of Beaver orter Muskrats &c.
August 7th, Wednesday, 1805. It was a nice morning, so we laid out our supplies to dry and took equal altitudes with the sextant. Since our stores were a bit worn out and one canoe had become unnecessary, we decided to leave one behind. We pulled it up into the bushes on the lower side of the main fork and secured it so that the water couldn't float it away. The area around here is a valley about 5 or 6 miles wide, surrounded by two high mountains. The valley bottom is rich, with some small timber on the islands and bushes along the river's edges. There are some bogs and very good turf in various spots throughout the valley, with scattered pine and cedar on the mountains, while other areas are bare except for grass and stones. The latitude of the mouth of Wisdom River is 45° 2' 21.6" North. We continued up the main middle or southeast fork and camped on the left side above the mouth of a fast-running stream that's 12 yards wide, which we named Turf Creek due to the number of bogs and the amount of turf in its waters. This creek flows through an open plain for several miles, originating from a high mountain to the northeast. The Jefferson River above Wisdom is gentle, winding, and about 40 yards wide, containing very little timber—just a few cottonwoods, willows, and birch, along with the shrubs common to the area, as mentioned earlier. At 5 o'clock, a thunderstorm came from the northwest with rain that lasted about 40 minutes. I sent R. Fields to find Shannon, who was hunting on the Wisdom River when I returned down that stream. He had gone further up the river, expecting us to follow him there. One deer was killed this evening. All these streams are filled with a huge number of beavers, otters, muskrats, and so on.
[Lewis, August 8, 1805]
Thursday August 8th 1805. We had a heavy dew this morning. as one canoe had been left we had now more hads to spear for the chase; game being scarce it requires more hunters to supply us. we therefore dispatched four this morning. we set out at sunrise and continued our rout up the river which we find much more gentle and deep than below the entrance of Wisdom river it is from 35 to 45 yards wide very crooked many short bends constituteing large and general bends; insomuch that altho we travel briskly and a considerable distance yet it takes us only a few miles on our general course or rout. there is but very little timber on this fork principally the under brush frequently mentioned. I observe a considerable quantity of the buffaloe clover in the bottoms. the sunflower, flax, green swoard, thistle and several species of the rye grass some of which rise to the hight of 3 or 4 feet. there is a grass also with a soft smooth leaf that bears it's seeds very much like the timothy but it dose not grow very luxouriant or appear as if it would answer so well as the common timothy for meadows. I preserved some of it's seeds which are now ripe, thinking perhaps it might answer better if cultivated, at all events is at least worth the experi-ment. it rises about 3 feet high. on a direct line about 2 miles above our encampment of this morning we passed the entrance of Philanthrophy River which discharges itself by 2 channels a small distance assunder. this river from it's size and S. Eastwardly course no doubt heads with Madisons river in the snowey mountains visible in that direction. at Noon Reubin Fields arrived and reported that he had been up Wisdom river some miles above where it entered the mountain and could find nothing of Shannon, he had killed a deer and an Antelope. great quantity of beaver Otter and musk-rats in these rivers. two of the hunters we sent out this morning returned at noon had killed each a deer and an Antelope. we use the seting poles today almost altogether. we encamped on the Lard sides where there was but little timber were obliged to use willow brush for fuel; the rosebushes and bryers were very thick. the hunters brought in another deer this evening. to tumor on Capt. Clarks ankle has discharged a considerable quantity of matter but is still much swolen and inflamed and gives him considerable pain. saw a number of Gees ducks and some Crains today. the former begin to fly.
Thursday, August 8th, 1805. We had a heavy dew this morning. Since one canoe was left behind, we now have more hands to help with the hunt; game is scarce, so we need more hunters to supply us. We therefore sent out four this morning. We set off at sunrise and continued our route up the river, which we find much gentler and deeper than below the entrance of Wisdom River. It’s about 35 to 45 yards wide and very winding, with many short bends creating larger curves; so even though we travel quickly and a considerable distance, we only make a few miles on our overall route. There is very little timber along this fork, mainly just the underbrush we’ve mentioned before. I noticed a significant amount of buffalo clover in the low areas, along with sunflowers, flax, green grass, thistles, and several species of ryegrass, some of which grow to heights of 3 or 4 feet. There’s also a grass with soft, smooth leaves that produces seeds similar to timothy, but it doesn’t grow very lush and doesn’t seem like it would do as well as common timothy for meadows. I collected some of its seeds, which are now ripe, thinking they might grow better if cultivated; at least it's worth a try. It grows about 3 feet tall. On a direct line about 2 miles above our camp from this morning, we passed the entrance of Philanthropy River, which splits into two channels a short distance apart. This river, given its size and southeastward course, likely connects with Madison River in the snowy mountains visible in that direction. At noon, Reubin Fields arrived and reported that he had gone several miles up Wisdom River past where it enters the mountains and couldn’t find anything of Shannon; he had killed a deer and an antelope. There are plenty of beaver, otter, and muskrats in these rivers. Two of the hunters we sent out this morning returned at noon, and each killed a deer and an antelope. We mostly used the setting poles today. We camped on the left side where there was very little timber, so we had to use willow brush for fuel; the rose bushes and briars were very dense. The hunters brought back another deer this evening. Capt. Clark’s ankle has discharged a considerable amount of pus but is still very swollen and inflamed, causing him significant pain. We saw a number of geese, ducks, and some cranes today; the geese are starting to fly.
the evening again proved cloudy much to my mortification and prevented my making any lunar observations. the Indian woman recognized the point of a high plain to our right which she informed us was not very distant from the summer retreat of her nation on a river beyond the mountains which runs to the west. this hill she says her nation calls the beaver's head from a conceived remblance of it's figure to the head of that animal. she assures us that we shall either find her people on this river or on the river immediately west of it's source; which from it's present size cannot be very distant. as it is now all important with us to meet with those people as soon as possible, I determined to proceed tomorrow with a small party to the source of the principal stream of this river and pass the mountains to the Columbia; and down that river untill I found the Indians; in short it is my resolusion to find them or some others, who have horses if it should cause me a trip of one month. for without horses we shall be obliged to leave a great part of our stores, of which, it appears to me that we have a stock already sufficiently small for the length of the voyage before us.
The evening turned out cloudy again, much to my disappointment, and it stopped me from making any lunar observations. The Indian woman pointed out a high plain to our right and told us it wasn’t far from her nation’s summer retreat on a river beyond the mountains that flows west. She says her people call this hill the Beaver's Head because its shape resembles that of the animal. She assures us that we will either find her people on this river or on the river just west of its source, which, judging by its current size, can’t be too far away. Since it’s crucial for us to meet up with those people as soon as possible, I decided to head out tomorrow with a small group to the source of the river's main stream and cross the mountains to reach the Columbia; then follow that river until I find the Indians. In short, I’m determined to locate them or others who have horses, even if it takes me a month. Without horses, we’ll have to leave behind a significant portion of our supplies, and I believe our current stock is already too small for the long journey ahead.
[Clark, August 8, 1805]
August 8th Thursday 1805 We proceeded on early wind from the S W. The Thermometer at 52 a 0 at Sunrise at 5 miles by water & 41/2 on a derect line from the forks we passed a River on the Lard Side 30 yards wide and navagable for Some distance takeing its rise in the Mountains Easterly & with the waters of Madisons River, passes thro an extensive vallie open & furtill &c. this river we call Philanthophy—above this river (which has but little timber) Jeffersons R is crooked with Short bends a fiew Islands and maney gravelly Sholes, no large timber, Small willow Birch & Srubs &c. Encamped on the Lard Side, R Fields joined us this eveng. & informes that he could not find Shannon my foot yet verry Swore
August 8th, Thursday, 1805 We set out early with a southwest wind. The thermometer read 52 at sunrise. We traveled 5 miles by water and 4.5 miles in a straight line from the forks. We passed a river on the left side, which is 30 yards wide and navigable for some distance, rising in the mountains to the east. It joins the waters of Madison's River and flows through a large, open, fertile valley. We named this river Philanthropy. Above this river, Jefferson's River is winding, with short bends, a few islands, and many gravelly shallows. There's no large timber, just small willows, birch, and shrubs. We set up camp on the left side. R. Fields joined us this evening and informed me that he couldn't locate Shannon. My foot is still very sore.
[Lewis, August 9, 1805]
Friday August 9th 1805. The morning was fair and fine; we set out at an early hour and proceeded on very well. some parts of the river more rapid than yesterday. I walked on shore across the land to a point which I presumed they would reach by 8 A.M. our usual time of halting. by this means I acquired leasure to accomplish some wrightings which I conceived from the nature of my instructions necessary lest any accedent should befall me on the long and reather hazardous rout I was now about to take. the party did not arrive and I returned about a mile and met them, here they halted and we breakefasted; I had killed two fine gees on my return. while we halted here Shannon arrived, and informed us that having missed the party the day on which he set out he had returned the next morning to the place from whence he had set out or furst left them and not finding that he had supposed that they wer above him; that he then set out and marched one day up wisdom river, by which time he was convinced that they were not above him as the river could not be navigated; he then returned to the forks and had pursued us up this river. he brought the skins of three deer which he had killed which he said were in good order. he had lived very plentifully this trip but looked a good deel worried with his march. he informed us that Wisdom river still kept it's course obliquely down the Jefferson's river as far as he was up it. immediately after breakfast I slung my pack and set out accompanyed by Drewyer Shields and McNeal who had been previously directed to hold themselves in readiness for this service. I directed my course across the bottom to the Stard. plain led left the beaver's head about 2 miles to my left and interscepted the river about 8 miles from the point at which I had left it; I then waded it and continued my rout to the point where I could observe that it entered the mountain, but not being able to reach that place, changed my direction to the river which I struck some miles below the mountain and encamped for the evening having traveled 16 M. we passed a handsom little stream formed by some large spring which rise in this wide bottom on the Lard. side of the river. we killed two Antelopes on our way and brought with us as much meat as was necessary for our suppers and breakfast the next morning. we found this bottom fertile and covered with taller grass than usual. the river very crooked much divided by islands, shallow rocky in many plases and very rapid; insomuch that I have my doubts whether the canoes could get on or not, or if they do it must be with great labour.—Capt. Clark proceeded after I left him as usual, found the current of the river increasing in rapidity towards evening. his hunters killed 2 antelopes only. in the evening it clouded up and we experienced a slight rain attended with some thunder and lightning. the musquetoes very troublesome this evening. there are some soft bogs in these vallies covered with turf. the earth of which this mud is composed is white or bluish white and appears to be argillacious.
Friday, August 9, 1805. The morning was clear and pleasant; we set out early and made good progress. Some sections of the river were faster than yesterday. I walked on land to a point I expected they would reach by 8 A.M., our usual stopping time. This gave me the time to finish some writings that I thought were necessary in case anything happened to me on the long and quite risky route I was about to take. The group didn’t arrive, so I walked back about a mile and met them; here, they stopped, and we had breakfast. I had shot two nice geese on my way back. While we halted here, Shannon arrived and told us that after missing the group the day he set out, he returned the next morning to the place where he first left them, and not finding them there, he thought they had gone upstream. He then set out and traveled one day up Wisdom River, by which point he became convinced they were not above him since the river couldn’t be navigated. He then returned to the forks and had followed us up this river. He brought back the skins of three deer he had killed, which he said were in good condition. He had eaten well on this trip but looked quite worn out from his journey. He told us that Wisdom River still ran diagonally down to Jefferson River as far as he had traveled up it. Right after breakfast, I packed my gear and set out with Drewyer, Shields, and McNeal, who had previously been told to be ready for this task. I headed across the bottom to the east, leaving the beaver's head about two miles to my left and intercepting the river about eight miles from where I had left it. I then waded across and continued on towards the point where I could see it entering the mountains, but couldn’t reach that spot, so I changed my direction to the river, which I hit some miles below the mountains and set up camp for the night after traveling 16 miles. We passed a nice little stream formed by large springs that rise in this wide bottom on the left side of the river. We hunted two antelopes along the way and brought back enough meat for our dinner and breakfast the next morning. We found this bottom land fertile and covered with taller grass than usual. The river was very winding, much divided by islands, shallow and rocky in many places, and very fast; I doubt if the canoes could navigate it, and if they manage to, it must be with great effort. Captain Clark continued after I left him as usual and found the current of the river increasing in speed towards evening. His hunters only killed two antelopes. In the evening, it became cloudy, and we experienced a slight rain, accompanied by some thunder and lightning. The mosquitoes were very bothersome this evening. There are some soft bogs in these valleys covered with turf. The soil in these muddy areas is white or bluish-white and seems to be clay-like.
[Clark, August 9, 1805]
August 9th Friday 1805 a fine morning wind from the N. E we proceeded on verry well rapid places more noumerous than below, Shannon the man whome we lost on Wisdom River Joined us, haveing returned to the forks & prosued us up after prosueing Wisdom River one day
August 9th, Friday, 1805. It was a beautiful morning with a wind coming from the northeast. We moved along quite well, with more rapids than below. Shannon, the man we lost on Wisdom River, joined us after returning to the forks and following us upstream after pursuing Wisdom River for one day.
Capt Lewis and 3 men Set out after brackft. to examine the river above, find a portage if possible, also the Snake Indians. I Should have taken this trip had I have been able to march, from the rageing fury of a turner on my anckle musle, in the evening Clouded up and a fiew drops of rain Encamped on the Lard Side near a low bluff, the river to day as yesterday. the three hunters Could kill only two antelopes to day, game of every kind Scerce
Capt. Lewis and three men set out after breakfast to explore the river upstream, look for a portage if possible, and meet the Snake Indians. I would have joined this trip if I could have walked, but I was dealing with the intense pain from a sprained ankle. In the evening, it clouded up and we got a few drops of rain. We set up camp on the left side near a low bluff; the river today was like it was yesterday. The three hunters could only catch two antelopes today; game of all kinds is scarce.
[Lewis, August 10, 1805]
Saturday August 10th 1805. We set out very early this morning and continued our rout through the wide bottom on the Lard. side of the river after passing a large creek at about 5 miles we fel in with a plain Indian road which led towards the point that the river entered the mountain we therefore pursued the road I sent Drewyer to the wright to kill a deer which we saw feeding and halted on the river under an immencely high perpendicular clift of rocks where it entered the mountain here we kindled a fire and waited for Drewyer. he arrived in about an hour and a half or at noon with three deer skins and the flesh of one of the best of them, we cooked and eat a haisty meal and departed, returning a shot distance to the Indian road which led us the best way over the mountains, which are not very high but ar ruggid and approach the river closely on both sides just below these mountains I saw several bald Eagles and two large white headed fishinghawks boath these birds were the same common to our country.
Saturday, August 10, 1805. We set out very early this morning and continued our route through the wide valley on the left side of the river. After passing a large creek about 5 miles in, we came across a native Indian road that led toward the point where the river entered the mountains. We decided to follow this road. I sent Drewyer to the right to kill a deer that we spotted feeding. We stopped along the river under a towering cliff of rock where it entered the mountain. Here, we started a fire and waited for Drewyer. He arrived about an hour and a half later, around noon, with three deer hides and the meat from one of the best deer. We cooked and had a quick meal before setting off again, retracing a short distance to the Indian road that took us the best way over the mountains. The mountains aren't very high but are rugged and come close to the river on both sides. Just below these mountains, I saw several bald eagles and two large white-headed fish hawks; both of these birds are the same as those common in our country.
from the number of rattle snakes about the Clifts at which we halted we called them the rattle snake clifts. this serpent is the same before discribed with oval spots of yellowish brown. the river below the mountains is rapid rocky, very crooked, much divided by islands and withal shallow. after it enters the mountains it's bends are not so circuetous and it's general course more direct, but it is equally shallow les divided more rocky and rapid. we continued our rout along the Indian road which led us sometimes over the hills and again in the narrow bottoms of the river till at the distance of fifteen Ms. from the rattle snake Clifts we arrived in a hadsome open and leavel vally where the river divided itself nearly into two equal branches; here I halted and examined those streams and readily discovered from their size that it would be vain to attempt the navigation of either any further. here also the road forked one leading up the vally of each of these streams. I therefore sent Drewer on one and Shields on the other to examine these roads for a short distance and to return and compare their information with respect to the size and apparent plainness of the roads as I was now determined to pursue that which appeared to have been the most traveled this spring. in the mean time I wrote a note to Capt. Clark informing him of the occurrences which had taken place, recommending it to him to halt at this place untill my return and informing him of the rout I had taken which from the information of the men on their return seemed to be in favour of the S W or Left hand fork which is reather the smallest. accordingly I put up my note on a dry willow pole at the forks, and set out up the S. E. fork, after proceeding about 11/2 miles I discovered that the road became so blind that it could not be that which we had followed to the forks of Jefferson's river, neither could I find the tracks of the horses which had passed early in the spring along the other; I therefore determined to return and examine the other myself, which I did, and found that the same horses had passed up the West fork which was reather largest, and more in the direction that I wished to pursue; I therefore did not hesitate about changing my rout but determined to take the western road. I now wrote a second note to Capt C. informing him of this change and sent Drewyer to put it with the other at the forks and waited untill he returned. there is scarcely any timber on the river above the R. Snake Clifts, nor is there anything larger than willow brush in sight of these forks. immediately in the level plain between the forks and about 1/2 a mile distance from them stands a high rocky mountain, the base of which is surrounded by the level plain; it has a singular appearance. the mountains do not appear very high in any direction tho the tops of some of them are partially covered with snow. this convinces me that we have ascended to a great hight since we have entered the rocky Mountains, yet the ascent has been so gradual along the vallies that it was scarcely perceptable by land. I do not beleive that the world can furnish an example of a river runing to the extent which the Missouri and Jefferson's rivers do through such a mountainous country and at the same time so navigable as they are. if the Columbia furnishes us such another example, a communication across the continent by water will be practicable and safe. but this I can scarcely hope from a knowledge of its having in it comparitively short course to the ocean the same number of feet to decend which the Missouri and Mississippi have from this point to the Gulph of Mexico.
Given the number of rattlesnakes around the cliffs where we stopped, we named them the rattlesnake cliffs. This serpent is the same as previously described, with oval spots of yellowish-brown. The river below the mountains is fast, rocky, very winding, often split by islands, and shallow. Once it enters the mountains, its bends aren't as curvy, and its overall course is more direct, but it's still shallow, less divided, and just as rocky and fast. We continued along the Indian road, which led us over hills and through the narrow river valleys until we reached a nice, open, level valley about fifteen miles from the rattlesnake cliffs, where the river nearly split into two equal branches. I stopped here to examine the streams and quickly realized from their size that it would be pointless to try to navigate either further. The road also forked here, with one path leading up the valley of each stream. I decided to send Drewyer down one and Shields down the other to scout the roads for a short distance and report back on the size and clarity of the paths, as I was now set on following the route that seemed to have the most traffic this spring. In the meantime, I wrote a note to Capt. Clark to inform him of recent events, recommending that he stay at this spot until my return and updating him on the route I had taken, which, based on the men’s feedback, leaned towards the southwest or left-hand fork, which is slightly narrower. I posted my note on a dry willow pole at the forks and set out up the southeast fork. After about a mile and a half, I noticed that the path became so unclear that it couldn’t be the one we took to reach the forks of Jefferson's River, and I couldn't find the tracks of the horses that had passed earlier in the spring along the other. So, I decided to go back and check the other fork myself, which I did, and found that the same horses had traveled up the west fork, which was larger and more in the direction I wanted to go. I didn’t hesitate to change my route and chose to take the western road. I wrote a second note to Capt. Clark about this change and sent Drewyer to place it with the first note at the forks, then I waited for his return. There is hardly any timber on the river above the rattlesnake cliffs, and nothing larger than willow brush is visible near these forks. Right in the flat area between the forks, about half a mile away, stands a tall rocky mountain, with its base surrounded by the flat land; it has a unique look. The mountains don’t seem very high from any angle, although the tops of some are partially snow-covered. This makes me think we have risen to a great height since entering the Rocky Mountains, yet the ascent has been so gradual along the valleys that it was hardly noticeable on the ground. I don't believe there’s another river in the world that runs as far as the Missouri and Jefferson rivers do through such mountainous terrain while being so navigable. If the Columbia offers a similar example, a water route across the continent could be feasible and safe. But I can hardly expect that, given its shorter course to the ocean, it descends the same number of feet to the Gulf of Mexico as the Missouri and Mississippi do from this point.
The valley of the west fork through which we passed for four miles boar a little to N of West and was about 1 mile wide hemned in on either side by rough mountain and steep Clifts of rock at 41/2 miles this stream enters a beatifull and extensive plain about ten miles long and from 5 to six in width. this plain is surrounded on all sides by a country of roling or high wavy plains through which several little rivulets extend their wide vallies quite to the Mountains which surround the whole in an apparent Circular manner; forming one of the handsomest coves I ever saw, of about 16 or 18 miles in diameter. just after entering this cove the river bends to the N. W. and runs close under the Stard. hills. here we killed a deer and encamped on the Stard.,side and made our fire of dry willow brush, the only fuel which the country produces. there are not more than three or four cottonwood trees in this extensive cove and they are but small. the uplands are covered with prickly pears and twisted or bearded grass and are but poor; some parts of the bottom lands are covered with grass and tolerably fertile; but much the greater proportion is covered with prickly pears sedge twisted grass the pulpy leafed thorn southernwood wild sage &c and like the uplands is very inferior in point of soil. we traveled by estimate 30 Ms. today, that is 10 to the Rattle snake Clift, 15 to the forks of Jefferson's river and 5 to our camp in the cove. at the apparent extremity of the bottom above us two perpendicular clifts of considerable hight stand on either side of the river and appers at this distance like a gate, it is about 10 M. due West.
The valley of the west fork that we traveled through for four miles moved slightly north of west and was about a mile wide, flanked on both sides by rugged mountains and steep cliffs of rock. At four and a half miles, this stream flows into a beautiful and expansive plain that stretches about ten miles long and five to six miles wide. This plain is surrounded on all sides by rolling or hilly plains, across which several small streams carve their wide valleys all the way to the mountains that encircle it in an apparent circular shape, creating one of the prettiest coves I've ever seen, about 16 to 18 miles in diameter. Just after entering this cove, the river bends northwest and flows close to the stony hills. Here, we killed a deer and set up camp on the sandy side, making our fire from dry willow brush, the only fuel available in the area. There are only three or four small cottonwood trees in this vast cove. The uplands are covered with prickly pears and twisted grass, and they aren't very fertile; some areas of the bottom land have decent grass and are somewhat fertile, but the majority is covered with prickly pears, sedge, twisted grass, thorny plants, wild sage, and similar vegetation, which, like the uplands, has poor soil quality. We traveled roughly 30 miles today, which breaks down to 10 miles to Rattlesnake Cliff, 15 miles to the forks of Jefferson's River, and 5 miles to our campsite in the cove. At the visible edge of the bottom land above us, two tall, steep cliffs stand on either side of the river, appearing from a distance like a gate; it's about 10 miles due west.
Capt Clark set out at sunrise this morning and pursued his rout; found the river not rapid but shallow also very crooked. they were obliged to drag the canoes over many riffles in the course of the day. they passed the point which the natives call the beaver's head. it is a steep rocky clift of 150 feet high near the Stard. side of the river, opposite to it at the distance of 300 yards is a low clift of about 50 feet which is the extremity of a spur of the mountains about 4 miles distant on Lard. at 4 P.M. they experienced a heavy shower of rain attended with hail thunder and Lightning which continued about an hour. the men defended themselves from the hail by means of the willow bushes but all the party got perfectly wet. after the shower was over they pursued their march and encamped on the stard side only one deer killed by their hunters today. tho they took up another by the way which had been killed three days before by Jos. Fields and hung up near the river.
Capt. Clark set out at sunrise this morning and followed his route; he found the river to be not fast but shallow and very winding. They had to drag the canoes over many riffles throughout the day. They passed the point that the natives call Beaver's Head. It's a steep rocky cliff about 150 feet high on the starboard side of the river, and opposite it, 300 yards away, is a low cliff about 50 feet high, which is the end of a spur of the mountains about 4 miles away on the larboard side. At 4 P.M., they faced a heavy rain shower accompanied by hail, thunder, and lightning, which lasted about an hour. The men shielded themselves from the hail using willow bushes, but everyone in the group got completely soaked. After the storm passed, they continued on their march and set up camp on the starboard side. Only one deer was killed by their hunters today, though they found another one along the way that had been killed three days earlier by Jos. Fields and hung near the river.
[Clark, August 10, 1805]
August 10th Satturday 1805 Some rain this morning at Sun rise and Cloudy we proceeded on passed a remarkable Clift point on the Stard. Side about 150 feet high, this Clift the Indians Call the Beavers head, opposit at 300 yards is a low clift of 50 feet which is a Spur from the Mountain on the Lard. about 4 miles, the river verry Crooked, at 4 oClock a hard rain from the S W accompanied with hail Continued half an hour, all wet, the men Sheltered themselves from the hail with bushes We Encamped on the Stard Side near a Bluff, only one Deer killed to day, the one killed Jo Fields 3 Days past & hung up we made use of river narrow, & Sholey but not rapid.
August 10th, Saturday, 1805 Some rain this morning at sunrise and it’s cloudy. We moved on and passed a notable cliff on the starboard side, about 150 feet high. The Indians call this cliff Beaver's Head. Opposite it, about 300 yards away, there's a low cliff of 50 feet, which is a spur from the mountain on the larboard side. The river is very crooked. At 4 o'clock, a heavy rain came from the southwest, along with hail, and lasted for half an hour. We all got wet, and the men took cover from the hail using bushes. We set up camp on the starboard side near a bluff. Only one deer was killed today, the one Jo Fields got three days ago that we hung up. We made use of narrow, shallow river areas, but they weren’t rapid.
[Lewis, August 11, 1805]
Sunday August 11th 1805. We set out very early this morning; but the track which we had pursued last evening soon disappeared. I therefore resolved to proceed to the narrow pass on the creek about 10 miles West in hopes that I should again find the Indian road at the place, accordingly I passed the river which was about 12 yards wide and bared in several places entirely across by beaver dams and proceeded through the level plain directly to the pass. I now sent Drewyer to keep near the creek to my right and Shields to my left, with orders to surch for the road which if they found they were to notify me by placing a hat in the muzzle of their gun. I kept McNeal with me; after having marched in this order for about five miles I discovered an Indian on horse back about two miles distant coming down the plain toward us. with my glass I discovered from his dress that he was of a different nation from any that we had yet seen, and was satisfyed of his being a Sosone; his arms were a bow and quiver of arrows, and was mounted on an eligant horse without a saddle, and a small string which was attatched to the underjaw of the horse which answered as a bridle. I was overjoyed at the sight of this stranger and had no doubt of obtaining a friendly introduction to his nation provided I could get near enough to him to convince him of our being whitemen. I therefore proceeded towards him at my usual pace. when I had arrived within about a mile he mad a halt which I did also and unloosing my blanket from my pack, I mad him the signal of friendship known to the Indians of the Rocky mountains and those of the Missouri, which is by holding the mantle or robe in your hands at two corners and then throwing up in the air higher than the head bringing it to the earth as if in the act of spreading it, thus repeating three times. this signal of the robe has arrisen from a custom among all those nations of spreading a robe or skin for ther gests to set on when they are visited. this signal had not the desired effect, he still kept his position and seemed to view Drewyer an Shields who were now comiming in sight on either hand with an air of suspicion, I wold willingly have made them halt but they were too far distant to hear me and I feared to make any signal to them least it should increase the suspicion in the mind of the Indian of our having some unfriendly design upon him. I therefore haistened to take out of my sack some beads a looking glas and a few trinkets which I had brought with me for this purpose and leaving my gun and pouch with McNeal advanced unarmed towards him. he remained in the same stedfast poisture untill I arrived in about 200 paces of him when he turn his hose about and began to move off slowly from me; I now called to him in as loud a voice as I could command repeating the word tab-ba-bone, which in their language signifyes white man. but loking over his sholder he still kept his eye on Drewyer and Sheilds who wer still advancing neither of them haveing segacity enough to recollect the impropriety of advancing when they saw me thus in parley with the Indian. I now made a signal to these men to halt, Drewyer obeyed but Shields who afterwards told me that he did not obseve the signal still kept on the Indian halted again and turned his horse about as if to wait for me, and I beleive he would have remained untill I came up whith him had it not been for Shields who still pressed forward. whe I arrived within about 150 paces I again repepeated the word tab-ba-bone and held up the trinkits in my hands and striped up my shirt sieve to give him an opportunity of seeing the colour of my skin and advanced leasure towards him but he did not remain untill I got nearer than about 100 paces when he suddonly turned his hose about, gave him the whip leaped the creek and disapeared in the willow brush in an instant and with him vanished all my hopes of obtaining horses for the preasent. I now felt quite as much mortification and disappointment as I had pleasure and expectation at the first sight of this indian. I fet soarly chargrined at the conduct of the men particularly Sheilds to whom I principally attributed this failure in obtaining an introduction to the natives. I now called the men to me and could not forbare abraiding them a little for their want of attention and imprudence on this occasion. they had neglected to bring my spye-glass which in haist I had droped in the plain with the blanket where I made the signal before mentioned. I sent Drewyer and Shields back to surche it, they soon found it and rejoined me. we now set out on the track of the horse hoping by that means to be lead to an indian camp, the trail of inhabitants of which should they abscond we should probably be enabled to pursue to the body of the nation to which they would most probably fly for safety. this rout led us across a large Island framed by nearly an equal division of the creek in this bottom; after passing to the open ground on the N. side of the creek we observed that the track made out toward the high hills about 3 m. distant in that direction. I thought it probable that their camp might probably be among those hills & that they would reconnoiter us from the tops of them, and that if we advanced haistily towards them that they would become allarmed and probably run off; I therefore halted in an elivated situation near the creek had a fire kindled of willow brush cooked and took breakfast. during this leasure I prepared a small assortment of trinkits consisting of some mockkerson awls a few strans of several kinds of beads some paint a looking glass &c which I attatched to the end of a pole and planted it near our fire in order that should the Indians return in surch of us they might from this token discover that we were friendly and white persons. before we had finised our meal a heavy shower of rain came on with some hail wich continued abot 20 minutes and wet us to the skin, after this shower we pursued the track of the horse but as the rain had raised the grass which he had trodden down it was with difficulty that we could follow it. we pursued it however about 4 miles it turning up the valley to the left under the foot of the hills. we pas several places where the Indians appeared to have been diging roots today and saw the fresh tracks of 8 or ten horses but they had been wandering about in such a confused manner that we not only lost the track of the hose which we had been pursuing but could make nothing of them. in the head of this valley we passed a large bog covered with tall grass and moss in which were a great number of springs of cold pure water, we now turned a little to the left along the foot of the high hills and arrived at a small branch on which we encamped for the night, having traveled in different directions about 20 Miles and about 10 from the camp of last evening on a direct line. after meeting with the Indian today I fixed a small flag of the U'S. to a pole which I made McNeal carry. and planted in the ground where we halted or encamped.
Sunday, August 11, 1805. We set out very early this morning, but the path we had followed last evening quickly vanished. I decided to head toward the narrow pass on the creek about 10 miles west in hopes of finding the Indian road there again. I crossed the river, which was about 12 yards wide and had several areas blocked by beaver dams, and moved through the flat plain directly to the pass. I sent Drewyer to stay near the creek on my right and Shields to my left, instructing them to search for the road and to signal me by placing a hat in the muzzle of their gun if they found it. I kept McNeal with me. After marching for about five miles, I spotted an Indian on horseback about two miles away, coming down the plain toward us. With my binoculars, I could see from his clothing that he belonged to a different tribe than any we had encountered so far, and I was certain he was a Sosone. He was armed with a bow and quiver of arrows and was riding a beautiful horse without a saddle, using a small string attached to the horse's jaw as a bridle. I was thrilled to see this stranger and was hopeful about getting a friendly introduction to his tribe once I could get close enough to show him we were white men. So, I moved toward him at my usual pace. When I got within about a mile, he stopped, so I did too. I took my blanket from my pack and made the friendly signal known among the Indians of the Rocky Mountains and Missouri by holding the blanket at two corners and throwing it up into the air above my head, then bringing it back down to the ground as if spreading it, repeating this three times. This signaling comes from a custom where these tribes spread a robe or skin for their guests to sit on when they visit. Unfortunately, this signal didn’t have the desired effect; he still held his position and seemed suspicious as he watched Drewyer and Shields, who were now coming into view on either side of him. I wanted to make them stop, but they were too far away to hear me, and I was worried that signaling them might increase the Indian's suspicion about our intentions. So, I hurried to take some beads, a mirror, and a few trinkets I had brought for this purpose out of my sack, leaving my gun and pouch with McNeal, and approached him unarmed. He stayed in the same firm position until I was about 200 paces away when he turned his horse around and slowly started to move away from me. I then called out to him in the loudest voice I could manage, repeating the word "tab-ba-bone," which means "white man" in their language. However, looking over his shoulder, he still kept an eye on Drewyer and Shields, who were still advancing, neither of them realizing the inappropriateness of approaching while I was trying to communicate with the Indian. I signaled to these men to stop, and Drewyer complied, but Shields, who later told me he didn't see the signal, kept going. The Indian halted again and turned his horse back toward me, and I believe he would have waited for me to approach if Shields hadn’t kept moving forward. When I got within about 150 paces, I repeated "tab-ba-bone," held up the trinkets in my hands, and rolled up my shirt sleeve to show him the color of my skin, advancing leisurely toward him. This time, he did not stay put—when I was about 100 paces away, he suddenly turned his horse around, whipped it, leaped the creek, and vanished into the willow thickets in an instant, taking all my hopes of getting horses at that moment with him. I now felt just as much mortification and disappointment as I had felt pleasure and excitement upon first seeing this Indian. I was very upset with the behavior of my men, especially Shields, whom I primarily blamed for this failure to make contact with the natives. I called the men over and could not help but scold them a little for their lack of attention and carelessness in this situation. They had forgotten to bring my spyglass, which I had accidentally left in the plain along with the blanket where I made my signal. I sent Drewyer and Shields back to look for it; they found it quickly and rejoined me. We then followed the trail of the horse, hoping it would lead us to an Indian camp. If they fled, we could probably pursue them to the main body of their tribe for safety. This route took us across a large island formed by a nearly equal split of the creek in this area. After crossing to the open ground on the north side of the creek, we noticed the trail heading toward the high hills about 3 miles away. I thought their camp might be among those hills and that they would be watching us from the tops. I figured if we rushed toward them, they would be alarmed and likely run away. So, I halted in an elevated spot near the creek, built a fire with willow brush, cooked, and had breakfast. During this break, I prepared a small assortment of trinkets, including some mockerson awls, a few strands of different beads, some paint, a mirror, etc., which I attached to the end of a pole and planted near our fire to show any returning Indians that we were friendly white people. Before we finished our meal, a heavy rain shower started, accompanied by some hail, which soaked us to the skin for about 20 minutes. After the rain, we tried to follow the horse's track, but the rain had raised the grass he had trampled down, making it difficult to follow. However, we persisted for about 4 miles as it turned up the valley to the left beneath the hills. We passed several areas where the Indians had apparently been digging for roots that day and saw fresh tracks from 8 or 10 horses, but they had wandered about so erratically that we lost the trail of the horse we had been following and couldn't make sense of them. At the head of this valley, we crossed a large bog covered with tall grass and moss, filled with numerous springs of cold, pure water. We then turned slightly to the left along the foot of the high hills and reached a small branch where we camped for the night, having traveled in different directions about 20 miles, with roughly 10 miles from the camp we left this morning. After the encounter with the Indian today, I fixed a small flag of the U.S. to a pole and had McNeal carry it, planting it in the ground where we stopped or set up camp.
This morning Capt Clark dispatched several hunters a head; the morning being rainy and wet did not set out untill after an early breakfast. he passed a large Island which he called the 3000 mile Island from the circumstance of it's being that distance from the entrance of the Missouri by water. a considerable proportion of the bottom on Lard. side is a bog covered with tall grass and many parts would afford fine turf; the bottom is about 8 Ms. wide and the plains which succeed it on either side extend about the same distance to the base of the mountains. they passed a number of small Islands and bayous on both sides which cut and intersect the bottoms in various directions. found the river shallow and rapid, insomuch that the men wer compelled to be in the water a considerable proportion of the day in drageing the canoes over the shoals and riffles. they saw a number of geese ducks beaver & otter, also some deer and antelopes. the men killed a beaver with a seting pole and tommahawked several Otter. the hunters killed 3 deer and an Antelope. Capt. C. observed some bunches of privy near the river. there are but few trees in this botom and those small narrow leafed Cottonwood. the principal growth is willow with the narrow leaf and Currant bushes. they encamped this evening on the upper point of a large Island near the Stard. shore.-
This morning, Captain Clark sent several hunters ahead; since it was rainy and wet, they didn't set off until after an early breakfast. He passed a large island, which he named the 3000 Mile Island because it is that distance from the entrance of the Missouri River by water. A significant portion of the bottom on the left side is a bog covered with tall grass, and many areas would provide good turf; the bottom is about 8 miles wide, and the plains that follow on either side extend about the same distance to the base of the mountains. They passed several small islands and bayous on both sides that cut through and intersect the bottoms in various ways. The river was shallow and fast, causing the men to spend a significant part of the day wading in the water to drag the canoes over the shallows and rapids. They saw several geese, ducks, beavers, and otters, as well as some deer and antelopes. The men caught a beaver using a setting pole and tomahawked several otters. The hunters also killed 3 deer and an antelope. Captain Clark noticed some patches of wild onions near the river. There are very few trees in this bottomland, and those are small, narrow-leaved cottonwoods. The main vegetation is willows with narrow leaves and currant bushes. They made camp this evening at the upper point of a large island near the starboard shore.
[Clark, August 11, 1805]
August 11th Sunday 1805. a Shower of rain this morning at Sun rise, Cloudy all the morning wind from the S W passed a large Island which I call the 3000 mile Island as it is Situated that distance from the mouth of the Missouri by water, a number of Small Bayoes running in different directions thro the Bottom, which is about 5 miles wide, then rises to an ellivated plain on each Side which extends as far. passed Several Small Islands and a number of Bayoes on each Side and Encamped on the upper point of a large Island, our hunters killed three Deer, one antilope, and Tomahawked Several Orter to day killed one Beaver with a Setting pole. I observed Some bunches of Privey on the banks
August 11th, Sunday, 1805. It rained this morning at sunrise and was cloudy all morning. The wind came from the southwest. We passed a large island that I call the 3000 Mile Island, as it is that distance from the mouth of the Missouri by water. There are several small bayous running in different directions through the bottom, which is about five miles wide, then it rises to an elevated plain on each side that extends far. We passed several small islands and many bayous on each side and camped at the upper point of a large island. Our hunters took down three deer, one antelope, and Tomahawked several otters today, and killed one beaver with a setting pole. I noticed some bunches of privet on the banks.
[Lewis, August 12, 1805]
Monday August 12th 1805 This morning I sent Drewyer out as soon as it was light, to try and discover what rout the Indians had taken. he followed the track of the horse we had pursued yesterday to the mountain wher it had ascended, and returned to me in about an hour and a half. I now determined to pursue the base of the mountains which form this cove to the S. W. in the expectation of finding some Indian road which lead over the Mountains, accordingly I sent Drewyer to my right and Shields to my left with orders to look out for a road or the fresh tracks of horses either of which we should first meet with I had determined to pursue. at the distance of about 4 miles we passed 4 small rivulets near each other on which we saw som resent bowers or small conic lodges formed with willow brush. near them the indians had geathered a number of roots from the manner in which they had toarn up the ground; but I could not discover the root which they seemed to be in surch of. I saw several large hawks that were nearly black near this place we fell in with a large and plain Indian road which came into the cove from the N. E. and led along the foot of the mountains to the S. W. oliquely approaching the main stream which we had left yesterday. this road we now pursued to the S. W. at 5 miles it passed a stout stream which is a principal fork of the man stream and falls into it just above the narrow pass between the two clifts before mentioned and which we now saw below us. here we halted and breakfasted on the last of our venison, having yet a small peice of pork in reseve. after eating we continued our rout through the low bottom of the main stream along the foot of the mountains on our right the valley for 5 mes. further in a S. W. direction was from 2 to 3 miles wide the main stream now after discarding two stream on the left in this valley turns abruptly to the West through a narrow bottom betwen the mountains. the road was still plain, I therefore did not dispair of shortly finding a passage over the mountains and of taisting the waters of the great Columbia this evening. we saw an animal which we took to be of the fox kind as large or reather larger than the small wolf of the plains. it's colours were a curious mixture of black, redis-brown and yellow. Drewyer shot at him about 130 yards and knocked him dow bet he recovered and got out of our reach. it is certainly a different animal from any that we have yet seen. we also saw several of the heath cock with a long pointed tail and an uniform dark brown colour but could not kill one of them. they are much larger than the common dunghill fowls, and in their habits and manner of flying resemble the growse or prarie hen. at the distance of 4 miles further the road took us to the most distant fountain of the waters of the mighty Missouri in surch of which we have spent so many toilsome days and wristless nights. thus far I had accomplished one of those great objects on which my mind has been unalterably fixed for many years, judge then of the pleasure I felt in allying my thirst with this pure and ice cold water which issues from the base of a low mountain or hill of a gentle ascent for 1/2 a mile. the mountains are high on either hand leave this gap at the head of this rivulet through which the road passes. here I halted a few minutes and rested myself. two miles below McNeal had exultingly stood with a foot on each side of this little rivulet and thanked his god that he had lived to bestride the mighty & heretofore deemed endless Missouri. after refreshing ourselves we proceeded on to the top of the dividing ridge from which I discovered immence ranges of high mountains still to the West of us with their tops partially covered with snow. I now decended the mountain about 3/4 of a mile which I found much steeper than on the opposite side, to a handsome bold running Creek of cold Clear water. here I first tasted the water of the great Columbia river. after a short halt of a few minutes we continued our march along the Indian road which lead us over steep hills and deep hollows to a spring on the side of a mountain where we found a sufficient quantity of dry willow brush for fuel, here we encamped for the night having traveled about 20 Miles. as we had killed nothing during the day we now boiled and eat the remainder of our pork, having yet a little flour and parched meal. at the creek on this side of the mountain I observed a species of deep perple currant lower in its growth, the stem more branched and leaf doubly as large as that of the Missouri. the leaf is covered on it's under disk with a hairy pubersence. the fruit is of the ordinary size and shape of the currant and is supported in the usual manner, but is ascid & very inferior in point of flavor.
Monday, August 12th, 1805 This morning, I sent Drewyer out as soon as it was light to try to find out which way the Indians had gone. He followed the track of the horse we chased yesterday to the mountain where it had gone up and returned to me in about an hour and a half. I decided to go along the base of the mountains that form this cove to the southwest, hoping to find an Indian path that led over the mountains. I sent Drewyer to my right and Shields to my left with orders to look for a path or fresh horse tracks; whichever we came across first, I planned to follow. After about four miles, we passed four small streams close together, where we saw some recent bowers or small conical lodges made of willow branches. Nearby, the Indians had gathered a number of roots from how they had disturbed the ground, but I couldn’t identify the root they seemed to be searching for. I saw several large hawks that were nearly black. Near this place, we discovered a large, clear Indian path that came into the cove from the northeast and led along the foot of the mountains to the southwest, gradually approaching the main stream we had left yesterday. We followed this path southwest, where after five miles it crossed a strong stream, which is a major fork of the main stream and flows into it just above the narrow pass between the two cliffs mentioned before, which we now saw below us. Here, we stopped and had breakfast on the last of our venison, while still having a small piece of pork in reserve. After eating, we continued on along the low bottom of the main stream, at the foot of the mountains on our right. The valley for another five miles in a southwest direction was from two to three miles wide. The main stream now, after branching off two streams on the left in this valley, turns sharply west through a narrow bottom between the mountains. The path was still clear, so I didn’t lose hope of quickly finding a way over the mountains and tasting the waters of the great Columbia by this evening. We saw an animal that we thought was a type of fox, about the size of or maybe slightly larger than a small wolf from the plains. Its colors were a strange mix of black, reddish-brown, and yellow. Drewyer shot at it from about 130 yards and knocked it down, but it recovered and got out of our reach. It was definitely a different animal from any we had seen before. We also spotted several grouse with long pointed tails and a uniform dark brown color, but we couldn’t catch one. They are much larger than common house chickens and behave and fly like prairie chickens. After traveling another four miles, we reached the farthest source of the mighty Missouri waters, in search of which we had spent so many exhausting days and restless nights. So far, I had achieved one of those great goals that my mind has been fixed on for many years, so imagine the pleasure I felt quenching my thirst with this pure, ice-cold water that flowed from the base of a low mountain or hill with a gentle slope for half a mile. The mountains were high on either side, leaving this gap at the head of the stream through which the road passes. I stopped here for a few minutes to rest. Two miles below, McNeal joyfully stood with a foot on each side of this little stream and thanked his god for living to straddle the mighty and previously deemed endless Missouri. After refreshing ourselves, we continued to the top of the dividing ridge, from which I spotted immense ranges of high mountains still to the west of us with their peaks partially covered in snow. I then descended the mountain about three-quarters of a mile, which was much steeper than on the other side, to a beautiful, bold-running creek of cold, clear water. Here, I first tasted the waters of the great Columbia River. After a short break of a few minutes, we continued our march along the Indian path, which led us over steep hills and deep valleys to a spring on the side of a mountain, where we found enough dry willow brush for fuel. We camped here for the night after traveling about 20 miles. Since we had killed nothing during the day, we boiled and ate the remainder of our pork, and we still had a little flour and roasted meal left. At the creek on this side of the mountain, I observed a type of dark purple currant that was lower in growth, with more branched stems and leaves twice as large as those of the Missouri. The leaves are covered on the underside with a hairy fuzz. The fruit is the usual size and shape of a currant and supported in the usual way, but it is sour and very inferior in taste.
this morning Capt. Clark set out early. found the river shoally, rapid shallow, and extreemly difficult. the men in the water almost all day. they are geting weak soar and much fortiegued; they complained of the fortiegue to which the navigation subjected them and wished to go by land Capt. C. engouraged them and passifyed them. one of the canoes was very near overseting in a rapid today. they proceeded but slowly. at noon they had a thunderstorm which continued about half an hour. their hunters killed 3 deer and a fawn. they encamped in a smoth plain near a few cottonwood trees on the Lard. side.-
This morning, Captain Clark set out early. He found the river shallow, fast-flowing, and extremely difficult to navigate. The men were in the water almost all day. They were getting weak, sore, and very fatigued; they complained about the exhaustion caused by the navigation and wished to go by land. Captain C. encouraged and calmed them down. One of the canoes almost capsized in a rapid today. They moved forward, but slowly. At noon, they had a thunderstorm that lasted about half an hour. Their hunters killed three deer and a fawn. They camped on a smooth plain near a few cottonwood trees on the left side.
[Clark, August 12, 1805]
August 12th Monday 1805 We Set out early (Wind N E) proceeded on passed Several large Islands and three Small ones, the river much more Sholey than below which obliges us to haul the Canoes over those Sholes which Suckceed each other at Short intervales emencely laborious men much fatigued and weakened by being continualy in the water drawing the Canoes over the Sholes encamped on the Lard Side men complain verry much of the emence labour they are obliged to undergo & wish much to leave the river. I passify them. the weather Cool, and nothing to eate but venison, the hunters killed three Deer to day
August 12th, Monday, 1805 We set out early (Wind N E) and continued on, passing several large islands and three small ones. The river is much shallower than below, which forces us to haul the canoes over the shallows that follow one after another at short intervals. It's extremely laborious, and the men are very fatigued and worn out from constantly being in the water pulling the canoes over the shallows. We camped on the left side. The men are complaining a lot about the intense labor they have to endure and are very eager to leave the river. I try to calm them down. The weather is cool, and we have nothing to eat but venison. The hunters killed three deer today.
[Lewis, August 13, 1805]
Tuesday August 13th 1805. We set out very early on the Indian road which still led us through an open broken country in a westerly direction. a deep valley appeared to our left at the base of a high range of mountains which extended from S. E. to N. W. having their sides better clad with pine timber than we had been accustomed to see the mountains and their tops were also partially covered with snow. at the distance of five miles the road after leading us down a long decending valley for 2 Ms. brought us to a large creek about 10 yds. wide; this we passed and on rising the hill beyond it had a view of a handsome little valley to our left of about a mile in width through which from the appearance of the timber I conjectured that a river passed. I saw near the creek some bushes of the white maple, the shumate of the small species with the winged rib, and a species of honeysuckle much in it's growth and leaf like the small honeysuckle of the Missouri only reather larger and bears a globular berry as large as a garden pea and as white as wax. this berry is formed of a thin smooth pellicle which envellopes a soft white musilagenous substance in which there are several small brown seed irregularly scattered or intermixed without any sell or perceptable membranous covering.—we had proceeded about four miles through a wavy plain parallel to the valley or river bottom when at the distance of about a mile we saw two women, a man and some dogs on an eminence immediately before us. they appeared to vew us with attention and two of them after a few minutes set down as if to wait our arrival we continued our usual pace towards them. when we had arrived within half a mile of them I directed the party to halt and leaving my pack and rifle I took the flag which I unfurled and avanced singly towards them the women soon disappeared behind the hill, the man continued untill I arrived within a hundred yards of him and then likewise absconded. tho I frequently repeated the word tab-ba-bone sufficiently loud for him to have heard it. I now haistened to the top of the hill where they had stood but could see nothing of them. the dogs were less shye than their masters they came about me pretty close I therefore thought of tying a handkerchief about one of their necks with some beads and other trinkets and then let them loose to surch their fugitive owners thinking by this means to convince them of our pacific disposition towards them but the dogs would not suffer me to take hold of them; they also soon disappeared. I now made a signal fror the men to come on, they joined me and we pursued the back tarck of these Indians which lead us along the same road which we had been traveling. the road was dusty and appeared to have been much traveled lately both by men and horses. these praries are very poor the soil is of a light yellow clay, intermixed with small smooth gravel, and produces little else but prickly pears, and bearded grass about 3 inches high. the prickley pear are of three species that with a broad leaf common to the missouri; that of a globular form also common to the upper part of the Missouri and more especially after it enters the Rocky Mountains, also a 3rd peculiar to this country. it consists of small circular thick leaves with a much greater number of thorns. these thorns are stronger and appear to be barbed. the leaves grow from the margins of each other as in the broad leafed pear of the missouri, but are so slightly attatched that when the thorn touches your mockerson it adhears and brings with it the leaf covered in every direction with many others. this is much the most troublesome plant of the three. we had not continued our rout more than a mile when we were so fortunate as to meet with three female savages. the short and steep ravines which we passed concealed us from each other untill we arrived within 30 paces. a young woman immediately took to flight, an Elderly woman and a girl of about 12 years old remained. I instantly laid by my gun and advanced towards them. they appeared much allarmed but saw that we were to near for them to escape by flight they therefore seated themselves on the ground, holding down their heads as if reconciled to die which the expected no doubt would be their fate; I took the elderly woman by the hand and raised her up repeated the word tab-babone and strip up my shirt sieve to sew her my skin; to prove to her the truth of the ascertion that I was a white man for my face and hads which have been constantly exposed to the sun were quite as dark as their own. they appeared instantly reconciled, and the men coming up I gave these women some beads a few mockerson awls some pewter looking-glasses and a little paint. I directed Drewyer to request the old woman to recall the young woman who had run off to some distance by this time fearing she might allarm the camp before we approached and might so exasperate the natives that they would perhaps attack us without enquiring who we were. the old woman did as she was requested and the fugitive soon returned almost out of breath. I bestoed an equvolent portion of trinket on her with the others. I now painted their tawny cheeks with some vermillion which with this nation is emblematic of peace. after they had become composed I informed them by signs that I wished them to conduct us to their camp that we wer anxious to become acquainted with the chiefs and warriors of their nation. they readily obeyed and we set out, still pursuing the road down the river. we had marched about 2 miles when we met a party of about 60 warriors mounted on excellent horses who came in nearly full speed, when they arrived I advanced towards them with the flag leaving my gun with the party about 50 paces behid me. the chief and two others who were a little in advance of the main body spoke to the women, and they informed them who we were and exultingly shewed the presents which had been given them these men then advanced and embraced me very affectionately in their way which is by puting their left arm over you wright sholder clasping your back, while they apply their left cheek to yours and frequently vociforate the word ah-hi'-e, &h-hi'-e that is, I am much pleased, I am much rejoiced. bothe parties now advanced and we wer all carresed and besmeared with their grease and paint till I was heartily tired of the national hug. I now had the pipe lit and gave them smoke; they seated themselves in a circle around us and pulled of their mockersons before they would receive or smoke the pipe. this is a custom among them as I afterwards learned indicative of a sacred obligation of sincerity in their profession of friendship given by the act of receiving and smoking the pipe of a stranger. or which is as much as to say that they wish they may always go bearfoot if they are not sincere; a pretty heavy penalty if they are to march through the plains of their country. after smoking a few pipes with them I distributed some trifles among them, with which they seemed much pleased particularly with the blue beads and vermillion. I now informed the chief that the object of our visit was a friendly one, that after we should reach his camp I would undertake to explain to him fully those objects, who we wer, from whence we had come and wither we were going; that in the mean time I did not care how soon we were in motion, as the sun was very warm and no water at hand. they now put on their mockersons, and the principal chief Ca-me-ah-wait made a short speach to the warriors. I gave him the flag which I informed him was an emblem of peace among whitemen and now that it had been received by him it was to be respected as the bond of union between us. I desired him to march on, which did and we followed him; the dragoons moved on in squadron in our rear. after we had marched about a mile in this order he halted them ang gave a second harang; after which six or eight of the young men road forward to their encampment and no further regularity was observed in the order of march. I afterwards understood that the Indians we had first seen this morning had returned and allarmed the camp; these men had come out armed cap a pe for action expecting to meet with their enemies the Minnetares of Fort de Prarie whome they Call Rah'-kees. they were armed with bows arrow and Shield except three whom I observed with small pieces such as the N. W. Company furnish the natives with which they had obtained from the Rocky Mountain Indians on the yellow stone river with whom they are at peace. on our arrival at their encampmen on the river in a handsome level and fertile bottom at the distance of 4 Ms. from where we had first met them they introduced us to a londge made of willow brush and an old leather lodge which had been prepared for our reception by the young men which the chief had dispatched for that purpose. Here we were seated on green boughs and the skins of Antelopes. one of the warriors then pulled up the grass in the center of the lodge forming a smal circle of about 2 feet in diameter the chief next produced his pipe and native tobacco and began a long cerimony of the pipe when we were requested to take of our mockersons, the Chief having previously taken off his as well as all the warriors present. this we complyed with; the Chief then lit his pipe at the fire kindled in this little magic circle, and standing on the oposite side of the circle uttered a speach of several minutes in length at the conclusion of which he pointed the stem to the four cardinal points of the heavens first begining at the East and ending with the North. he now presented the pipe to me as if desirous that I should smoke, but when I reached my hand to receive it, he drew it back and repeated the same cremony three times, after which he pointed the stern first to the heavens then to the center of the magic circle smoked himself with three whifs and held the pipe untill I took as many as I thought proper; he then held it to each of the white persons and then gave it to be consumed by his warriors. this pipe was made of a dense simitransparent green stone very highly polished about 21/2 inches long and of an oval figure, the bowl being in the same direction with the stem. a small piece of birned clay is placed in the bottom of the bowl to seperate the tobacco from the end of the stem and is of an irregularly rounded figure not fitting the tube purfectly close in order that the smoke may pass. this is the form of the pipe. their tobacco is of the same kind of that used by the Minnetares Mandans and Ricares of the Missouri. the Shoshonees do not cultivate this plant, but obtain it from the Rocky mountain Indians and some of the bands of their own nation who live further south. I now explained to them the objects of our journey &c. all the women and children of the camp were shortly collected about the lodge to indulge themselves with looking at us, we being the first white persons they had ever seen. after the cerimony of the pipe was over I distributed the remainder of the small articles I had brought with me among the women and children. by this time it was late in the evening and we had not taisted any food since the evening before. the Chief informed us that they had nothing but berries to eat and gave us some cakes of serviceberries and Choke cherries which had been dryed in the sun; of these I made a hearty meal, and then walked to the river, which I found about 40 yards wide very rapid clear and about 3 feet deep. the banks low and abrupt as those of the upper part of the Missouri, and the bed formed of loose stones and gravel. Cameahwait informed me that this stream discharged itself into another doubly as large at the distance of half a days march which came from the S. W. but he added on further enquiry that there was but little more timber below the junction of those rivers than I saw here, and that the river was confined between inacessable mountains, was very rapid and rocky insomuch that it was impossible for us to pass either by land or water down this river to the great lake where the white men lived as he had been informed. this was unwelcome information but I still hoped that this account had been exagerated with a view to detain us among them. as to timber I could discover not any that would answer the purpose of constructing canoes or in short more than was bearly necessary for fuel consisting of the narrow leafed cottonwood and willow, also the red willow Choke Cherry service berry and a few currant bushes such as were common on the Missouri. these people had been attacked by the Minetares of Fort de prarie this spring and about 20 of them killed and taken prisoners. on this occasion they lost a great part of their horses and all their lodges except that which they had erected for our accomodation; they were now living in lodges of a conic figure made of willow brush. I still observe a great number of horses feeding in every direction around their camp and therefore entertain but little doubt but we shall be enable to furnish ourselves with an adiquate number to transport our stores even if we are compelled to travel by land over these mountains. on my return to my lodge an indian called me in to his bower and gave me a small morsel of the flesh of an antelope boiled, and a peice of a fresh salmon roasted; both which I eat with a very good relish. this was the first salmon I had seen and perfectly convinced me that we were on the waters of the Pacific Ocean. the course of this river is a little to the North of west as far as I can discover it; and is bounded on each side by a range of high Mountains. tho those on the E. side are lowest and more distant from the river.
Tuesday, August 13, 1805. We set out very early on the Indian road, which led us through open, rugged country in a westerly direction. A deep valley appeared to our left at the base of a high mountain range extending from southeast to northwest, with better pine cover than we were used to seeing on mountains, and their peaks were also partially covered in snow. After five miles, the road led us down a long descending valley for 2 miles, bringing us to a large creek about 10 yards wide. We crossed it, and upon climbing the hill beyond, we saw a beautiful little valley to our left about a mile wide, which I guessed likely contained a river based on the timber's appearance. Near the creek, I noticed some bushes of white maple, shumate of the small species with winged ribs, and a type of honeysuckle that looked much like the small honeysuckle of Missouri, only larger, producing a round berry the size of a garden pea and as white as wax. This berry consists of a thin, smooth skin covering a soft, white, gelatinous substance, with several small brown seeds scattered irregularly within without any shell or discernible membrane covering. We had traveled about four miles through a wavy plain parallel to the valley or river bottom when we spotted two women, a man, and some dogs on a hill about a mile ahead. They seemed to watch us closely, and after a few minutes, two of them sat down as if to wait for us. We maintained our usual pace towards them. When we got within half a mile, I instructed the party to halt. Leaving my pack and rifle behind, I took the flag, unfurled it, and advanced alone towards them. The women soon disappeared behind the hill, while the man stayed until I was within a hundred yards of him, then he too ran off, despite me repeatedly saying the word "tab-ba-bone" loud enough for him to hear. I hurried to the top of the hill where they had stood, but saw nothing of them. The dogs were less shy than their masters; they came close to me. I then thought about tying a handkerchief around one of their necks with some beads and trinkets, then letting them loose to find their fleeing owners, hoping to show them we meant no harm, but the dogs wouldn’t let me grab them; they too quickly ran off. I then signaled for the men to join me, and we followed the path these Indians had taken, which was the same road we had been traveling. The road was dusty and looked like it had been well-trodden lately by both men and horses. These prairies were very poor; the soil was a light yellow clay mixed with small smooth gravel, yielding little more than prickly pears and grass about three inches high. The prickly pear consists of three species: one with broad leaves common to Missouri; a globular form also seen in the upper Missouri, especially after it enters the Rocky Mountains; and a third type unique to this area, which has small, thick circular leaves covered in many stronger, barbed thorns. The leaves grow from the edges of one another like the broad-leafed pear of Missouri, but are so loosely attached that, when a thorn touches your shoe, it sticks to it, bringing along with it a leaf covered in thorns. This is by far the most troublesome plant of the three. We had only gone about a mile when we were lucky enough to encounter three Native women. The short, steep ravines hid us from each other until we were within 30 paces. One young woman immediately ran away, while an older woman and a girl about 12 years old stayed. I quickly set my gun aside and moved toward them. They looked very scared but soon realized we were too close for them to escape on foot, so they sat down on the ground, heads bowed as if resigned to die, which they probably expected would be their fate. I took the older woman’s hand and helped her up, repeated the word "tab-babone," and lifted my shirt sleeve to show her my skin, trying to prove to her that I was a white man, as my face and hands, constantly exposed to the sun, were as dark as theirs. They instantly appeared reassured, and when the men arrived, I gave the women some beads, a few moccasin awls, some pewter mirrors, and a little paint. I directed Drewyer to ask the older woman to call back the young woman who had run off, fearing she might alarm the camp and provoke the natives to attack us without finding out who we were. The older woman complied, and the fugitive soon returned, almost out of breath. I gave her an equal share of trinkets like the others. I then painted their brown cheeks with some vermilion, which symbolizes peace among this nation. Once they were calm, I gestured that I wanted them to guide us to their camp, expressing our desire to meet the chiefs and warriors of their nation. They readily complied, and we set off, continuing along the road by the river. After marching about 2 miles, we encountered a group of about 60 warriors riding excellent horses who came at nearly a full gallop. When they arrived, I moved towards them with the flag while leaving my gun about 50 paces behind with the party. The chief and two others a little ahead of the main group spoke to the women, who explained who we were and proudly displayed the gifts we had given them. The men then approached, hugging me warmly as is their custom, putting their left arm over my right shoulder, clasping my back while resting their left cheek against mine, repeatedly exclaiming "ah-hi'-e, ah-hi'-e," meaning "I am very pleased, I am very happy." Both groups mingled, and we all ended up hugging and smearing each other with their grease and paint until I was quite tired of the national embrace. I lit the pipe and offered them smoke; they seated themselves in a circle around us and took off their moccasins before accepting or smoking the pipe. This is a custom meant to indicate a sacred obligation of honesty in their expression of friendship, shown by the act of receiving and smoking a stranger's pipe. It means that they hope to go barefoot forever if they are not sincere, which would be quite a tough penalty should they need to navigate the plains of their country. After smoking a few pipes with them, I handed out some small gifts, which they appreciated, especially the blue beads and vermilion. I then informed the chief that the purpose of our visit was friendly; that once we reached his camp, I would fully explain our objectives, who we were, where we had come from, and where we were going. In the meantime, I mentioned that I didn’t mind moving on quickly since the sun was hot and there was no water around. They then put their moccasins back on, and Chief Cameahwait gave a short speech to the warriors. I handed him the flag, which I told him was a symbol of peace among white men, and now that it was accepted by him, it was to be considered a bond between us. I asked him to move on, and he did, leading the way as we followed him; the dragoons moved in a squadron behind us. After about a mile in this formation, he halted them and gave another speech, after which six or eight young men rode ahead to their camp, and no further order was observed in the march. I later learned that the Indians we had first seen this morning had returned and alarmed the camp; these men had come out fully armed, expecting to confront their enemies, the Minnetares from Fort de Prairie, whom they call Rah'-kees. They carried bows, arrows, and shields, except for three who had small guns typical of those supplied to the natives by the Northwest Company, which they had acquired from the Rocky Mountain Indians on the Yellowstone River, with whom they were at peace. Upon reaching their encampment on the river, in a beautiful, flat, and fertile bottomland, about 4 miles from where we first met, they brought us to a lodge made of willow branches and an old leather lodge prepared for us by the young men the chief had sent. Here, we were seated on green boughs and antelope skins. One of the warriors then gathered grass in the center of the lodge, creating a small circle about 2 feet in diameter. The chief then produced his pipe and native tobacco, starting a lengthy ceremony with it, during which we were asked to remove our moccasins, which the chief and all the warriors had already done. We complied, and the chief lit his pipe at the fire in the little circle, standing opposite us while delivering a speech lasting several minutes. At the end, he pointed the pipe stem toward the four cardinal points of the heavens, starting from the east and ending in the north. He then offered the pipe to me as if wanting me to smoke, but when I reached for it, he drew it back and repeated the same ceremony three times. Afterward, he pointed the stem first towards the heavens, then to the center of the circle, smoked three puffs himself, and held the pipe for me to take as many puffs as I wished. He then held it out to each of the white people and finally gave it to his warriors. This pipe was made from a dense, semi-transparent green stone, highly polished, about 2 ½ inches long and oval-shaped, with the bowl oriented in the same direction as the stem. A small piece of burned clay sits at the bottom of the bowl to separate the tobacco from the end of the stem, irregularly rounded so it does not fit tightly, allowing smoke to pass. Their tobacco is similar to that used by the Minnetares, Mandans, and Riccarees of Missouri. The Shoshonees do not cultivate this plant but obtain it from the Rocky Mountain Indians and some bands of their own nation that live further south. I explained our journey's objectives and shortly, all the women and children from the camp gathered around the lodge, eager to look at us, as we were the first white people they had ever encountered. After the pipe ceremony concluded, I distributed the rest of the small items I had brought among the women and children. By this time, it was late evening, and we hadn't eaten since the night before. The chief told us they had nothing but berries to eat and offered us some cakes made from serviceberries and chokecherries dried in the sun; I made a hearty meal of those. Then I walked to the river, which I found to be about 40 yards wide, very fast, clear, and about 3 feet deep. The banks were low and steep like those of the upper Missouri, with a bed formed of loose stones and gravel. Cameahwait told me this stream flowed into another one twice its size about half a day's travel away, which came from the southwest. However, he added upon further inquiry that there was little timber below the junction of these rivers compared to what I saw here and that the river was confined between inaccessible mountains, very fast and rocky, making it impossible for us to travel either by land or water down this river to the great lake where the white men lived, as he had been informed. This was unwelcome news, but I still hoped this account had been exaggerated to keep us among them. Regarding timber, I could see nothing suitable for building canoes or, really, more than just what was barely needed for fuel, mainly consisting of narrow-leafed cottonwood, willow, red willow, chokecherry, serviceberry, and a few currant bushes typical of the Missouri area. These people had been attacked by the Minnetares from Fort de Prairie in the spring, losing about 20 of their members killed or taken prisoner. In this incident, they lost many horses and all their lodges except the one which had been set up for our accommodation; they were now living in conical lodges made of willow brush. I noticed a good number of horses grazing all around their camp and felt little doubt we would be able to gather enough to transport our supplies, even if we had to travel by land over the mountains. On my way back to my lodge, an Indian called me into his bower and offered me a small piece of boiled antelope meat and a piece of roasted fresh salmon, both of which I enjoyed very much. This was the first salmon I had ever seen, confirming that we were on the waters of the Pacific Ocean. The river's flow was slightly to the north of west as far as I could tell, bounded on either side by a range of high mountains, with the eastern side being lower and more distant from the river.
This evening the Indians entertained us with their dancing nearly all night. at 12 O'Ck. I grew sleepy and retired to rest leaving the men to amuse themselves with the Indians. I observe no essential difference between the music and manner of dancing among this nation and those of the Missouri. I was several times awoke in the course of the night by their yells but was too much fortiegued to be deprived of a tolerable sound night's repose.
This evening, the Native Americans entertained us with their dancing almost all night. At midnight, I started to feel sleepy and went to bed, leaving the men to enjoy themselves with the Native Americans. I noticed no significant difference between the music and style of dancing of this group and those from Missouri. I was woken several times throughout the night by their yells, but I was too tired to let it disturb my decent night's sleep.
This morning Capt Clark set out early having previously dispatched some hunters ahead. it was cool and cloudy all the forepart of the day. at 8 A.M. they had a slight rain. they passed a number of shoals over which they were obliged to drag the canoes; the men in the water 3/4ths of the day, they passed a bold runing stream 7 yds. wide on the Lard. side just below a high point of Limestone rocks. this stream we call McNeal's Creek after Hugh McNeal one of our party. this creek heads in the Mountains to the East and forms a handsome valley for some miles between the mountains. from the top of this limestone Clift above the creek The beaver's head boar N 24° E. 12 Ms. the course of Wisdom river or that which the opening of it's valley makes through the mountains is N. 25 W. to the gap through which Jefferson's river enters the mountains above is S 18° W 10 M. they killed one deer only today. saw a number of Otter some beaver Antelopes ducks gees and Grains. they caught a number of fine trout as they have every day since I left them. they encamped on Lrd. in a smooth level prarie near a few cottonwood trees, but were obliged to make use of the dry willow brush for fuel.
This morning, Captain Clark set out early after sending some hunters ahead. It was cool and cloudy for most of the day. At 8 A.M., they had a light rain. They passed several shoals where they had to drag the canoes, with the men in the water for three-quarters of the day. They came across a strong-running stream about 7 yards wide on the left side, just below a high point of limestone rocks. They named this stream McNeal's Creek after Hugh McNeal, one of their party. The creek originates in the mountains to the east and creates a beautiful valley that stretches several miles between the mountains. From the top of the limestone cliff above the creek, the beaver's head bears N 24° E, 12 miles away. The course of Wisdom River, or the path created by its valley through the mountains, is N 25 W. The gap through which Jefferson's River enters the mountains is S 18° W, 10 miles away. They only killed one deer today but saw several otters, some beavers, antelopes, ducks, geese, and grains. They caught a number of nice trout, just as they've done every day since I left them. They camped on the left side in a smooth, flat prairie near a few cottonwood trees but had to use dry willow brush for fuel.
[Clark, August 13, 1805]
August 13th Tuesday 1805 a verry Cool morning the Thermometer Stood at 52 a 0 all the fore part of the day. Cloudy at 8 oClock a mist of rain we proceeded on passed inumerable Sholes obliged to haul the boat 3/4 of the Day over the Shole water. passed the mouth of a bold running Stream 7 yards wide on the Lard Side below a high Point of Limestone rocks on the Stard Side this Creek heads in the mountains to the easte and forms a Vallie between two mountains. Call this stream McNeal Creek From the top of this rock the Point of the Beaver head hill bears N. 24° E 12 ms.
August 13th, Tuesday, 1805, a very cool morning with the thermometer at 52°F all morning. It was cloudy, and at 8 o'clock, there was a light mist of rain. We continued on and passed countless shallow areas, having to haul the boat three-quarters of the day over the shallow water. We passed the mouth of a fast-running stream that was 7 yards wide on the left side, below a high point of limestone rocks on the right side. This creek originates in the mountains to the east and creates a valley between two mountains. We named this stream McNeal Creek. From the top of this rock, the point of Beaver Head Hill is at N. 24° E, 12 miles away.
The Course of the Wisdom river is—N. 25 W
The gap at the place the river passes thro a mountain in advance is—S. 18° W. 10 ms.
The gap where the river flows through the mountain ahead is—S. 18° W. 10 miles.
proceeded on and Encamped on the Lard side no wood except dry willows and them Small, one Deer killed to day. The river obliges the men to undergo great fatigue and labour in hauling the Canoes over the Sholes in the Cold water naked.
proceeded on and set up camp on the left side, with no wood available except for some small dry willows. One deer was killed today. The river forces the men to endure a lot of fatigue and hard work as they haul the canoes over the shallow spots in the cold water without clothes.
[Lewis, August 14, 1805]
Wednesday August 14th In order to give Capt. Clark time to reach the forks of Jefferson's river I concluded to spend this day at the Shoshone Camp and obtain what information I could with rispect to the country. as we had nothing but a little flour and parched meal to eat except the berries with which the Indians furnished us I directed Drewyer and Shields to hunt a few hours and try to kill something, the Indians furnished them with horses and most of their young men also turned out to hunt. the game which they principally hunt is the Antelope which they pursue on horseback and shoot with their arrows. this animal is so extreemly fleet and dureable that a single horse has no possible chance to overtake them or run them down. the Indians are therefore obliged to have recorce to strategem when they discover a herd of the Antelope they seperate and scatter themselves to the distance of five or six miles in different directions arround them generally scelecting some commanding eminence for a stand; some one or two now pursue the herd at full speed over the hills values gullies and the sides of precipices that are tremendious to view. thus after runing them from five to six or seven miles the fresh horses that were in waiting head them and drive them back persuing them as far or perhaps further quite to the other extreem of the hunters who now in turn pursue on their fresh horses thus worrying the poor animal down and finally killing them with their arrows. forty or fifty hunters will be engaged for half a day in this manner and perhaps not kill more than two or three Antelopes. they have but few Elk or black tailed deer, and the common red deer they cannot take as they secrete themselves in the brush when pursued, and they have only the bow and arrow wich is a very slender dependence for killing any game except such as they can run down with their horses. I was very much entertained with a view of this indian chase; it was after a herd of about 10 Antelope and about 20 hunters. it lasted about 2 hours and considerable part of the chase in view from my tent. about 1 A.M. the hunters returned had not killed a single Antelope, and their horses foaming with sweat. my hunters returned soon after and had been equally unsuccessfull. I now directed McNeal to make me a little paist with the flour and added some berries to it which I found very pallateable.
Wednesday, August 14th. To give Capt. Clark time to reach the forks of Jefferson's river, I decided to spend the day at the Shoshone Camp and gather whatever information I could about the area. Since we only had a little flour and parched meal to eat, along with the berries the Indians provided us, I told Drewyer and Shields to hunt for a few hours and try to catch something. The Indians lent them horses, and most of their young men joined in the hunt. The main game they pursue is antelope, which they chase on horseback and shoot with arrows. These animals are incredibly fast and resilient, so a single horse can’t possibly catch them. Therefore, the Indians have to rely on strategy. When they spot a herd of antelope, they separate and scatter themselves five or six miles away in different directions, usually choosing a high vantage point to wait. One or two hunters then chase the herd at full speed over hills, valleys, and steep cliffs, which is an impressive sight. After running the antelope five to seven miles, the fresh horses waiting in the wings cut them off and drive them back, chasing them as far or maybe even further to the other side where the other hunters are waiting on their fresh horses. This method gradually wears down the animals, allowing them to finally kill them with their arrows. Forty or fifty hunters may spend half a day this way and might not even catch more than two or three antelopes. They have very few elk or black-tailed deer, and they can’t catch common red deer as they hide in the brush when pursued. They rely only on bow and arrow, which is a pretty slim means of hunting anything that they can’t run down with their horses. I was very entertained watching this Indian chase; they were after a herd of about ten antelope with around twenty hunters. It lasted about two hours, and a good portion of the chase was in view from my tent. Around 1 A.M., the hunters returned without having killed a single antelope, their horses covered in sweat. My hunters came back shortly after and had been equally unsuccessful. I then told McNeal to make me a little paste with the flour and added some of the berries to it, which I found quite tasty.
The means I had of communicating with these people was by way of Drewyer who understood perfectly the common language of jesticulation or signs which seems to be universally understood by all the Nations we have yet seen. it is true that this language is imperfect and liable to error but is much less so than would be expected. the strong parts of the ideas are seldom mistaken.
The way I communicated with these people was through Drewyer, who understood the common language of gestures and signs that seems to be universally understood by all the nations we’ve encountered so far. It’s true that this language is imperfect and can lead to misunderstandings, but it’s much clearer than you might expect. The key parts of the ideas are rarely mistaken.
I now prevailed on the Chief to instruct me with rispect to the geography of his country. this he undertook very cheerfully, by delienating the rivers on the ground. but I soon found that his information fell far short of my expectation or wishes. he drew the river on which we now are to which he placed two branches just above us, which he shewed me from the openings of the mountains were in view; he next made it discharge itself into a large river which flowed from the S. W. about ten miles below us, then continued this joint stream in the same direction of this valley or N. W. for one days march and then enclined it to the West for 2 more days march, here he placed a number of beeps of sand on each side which he informed me represented the vast mountains of rock eternally covered with snow through which the river passed. that the perpendicular and even juting rocks so closely hemned in the river that there was no possibilyte of passing along the shore; that the bed of the river was obstructed by sharp pointed rocks and the rapidity of the stream such that the whole surface of the river was beat into perfect foam as far as the eye could reach. that the mountains were also inaccessible to man or horse. he said that this being the state of the country in that direction that himself nor none of his nation had ever been further down the river than these mountains. I then enquired the state of the country on either side of the river but he could not inform me. he said there was an old man of his nation a days march below who could probably give me some information of the country to the N. W. and refered me to an old man then present for that to the S. W.—the Chief further informed me that he had understood from the persed nosed Indians who inhabit this river below the rocky mountains that it ran a great way toward the seting sun and finally lost itself in a great lake of water which was illy taisted, and where the white men lived. I next commenced my enquiries of the old man to whom I had been refered for information relative the country S W. of us. this he depicted with horrors and obstructions scarcely inferior to that just mentioned. he informed me that the band of this nation to which he belonged resided at the distance of 20 days march from hence not far from the white people with whom they traded for horses mules cloth metal beads and the shells which they woar as orniment being those of a species of perl oister. that the course to his relations was a little to the West of South. that in order to get to his relations the first seven days we should be obliged to climb over steep and rocky mountains where we could find no game to kill nor anything but roots such as a ferce and warlike nation lived on whom he called the broken mockersons or mockersons with holes, and said inhabited those mountains and lived like the bear of other countries among the rocks and fed on roots or the flesh of such horses as they could take or steel from those who passed through their country. that in passing this country the feet of our horses would be so much wounded with the stones many of them would give out. the next part of the rout was about 10 days through a dry and parched sandy desert in which no food at this season for either man or horse, and in which we must suffer if not perish for the want of water. that the sun had now dryed up the little pools of water which exist through this desert plain in the spring season and had also scorched all the grass. that no animal inhabited this plain on which we could hope to subsist. that about the center of this plain a large river passed from S. E. to N. W. which was navigable but afforded neither Salmon nor timber. that beyond this plain thee or four days march his relations lived in a country tolerable fertile and partially covered with timber on another large river which ran in the same direction of the former. that this last discharged itself into a large river on which many numerous nations lived with whom his relations were at war but whether this last discharged itself into the great lake or not he did not know. that from his relations it was yet a great distance to the great or stinking lake as they call the Ocean. that the way which such of his nation as had been to the Stinking lake traveled was up the river on which they lived and over to that on which the white people lived which last they knew discharged itself into the Ocean, and that this was the way which he would advise me to travel if I was determined to proceed to the Ocean but would advise me to put off the journey untill the next spring when he would conduct me. I thanked him for his information and advise and gave him a knife with which he appeared to be much gratifyed. from this narative I was convinced that the streams of which he had spoken as runing through the plains and that on which his relations lived were southern branches of the Columbia, heading with the rivers Apostles and Collorado, and that the rout he had pointed out was to the Vermillion Sea or gulph of Callifornia. I therefore told him that this rout was more to the South than I wished to travel, and requested to know if there was no rout on the left of this river on which we now are, by means of which, I could intercept it below the mountains through which it passes; but he could not inform me of any except that of the barren plain which he said joined the mountain on that side and through which it was impossible for us to pass at this season even if we were fortunate enough to escape from the broken mockerson Indians. I now asked Cameahwait by what rout the Pierced nosed indians, who he informed me inhabited this river below the mountains, came over to the Missouri; this he informed me was to the north, but added that the road was a very bad one as he had been informed by them and that they had suffered excessively with hunger on the rout being obliged to subsist for many days on berries alone as there was no game in that part of the mountains which were broken rockey and so thickly covered with timber that they could scarcely pass. however knowing that Indians had passed, and did pass, at this season on that side of this river to the same below the mountains, my rout was instantly settled in my own mind, povided the account of this river should prove true on an investigation of it, which I was determined should be made before we would undertake the rout by land in any direction. I felt perfectly satisfyed, that if the Indians could pass these mountains with their women and Children, that we could also pass them; and that if the nations on this river below the mountains were as numerous as they were stated to be that they must have some means of subsistence which it would be equally in our power to procure in the same country. they informed me that there was no buffaloe on the West side of these mountains; that the game consisted of a few Elk deer and Antelopes, and that the natives subsisted on fish and roots principally. in this manner I spent the day smoking with them and acquiring what information I could with respect to their country. they informed me that they could pass to the Spaniards by the way of the yellowstone river in 10 days. I can discover that these people are by no means friendly to the Spaniard their complaint is, that the Spaniards will not let them have fire arms and amunition, that they put them off by telling them that if they suffer them to have guns they will kill each other, thus leaving them defenceless and an easy prey to their bloodthirsty neighbours to the East of them, who being in possession of fire arms hunt them up and murder them without rispect to sex or age and plunder them of their horses on all occasions. they told me that to avoid their enemies who were eternally harrassing them that they were obliged to remain in the interior of these mountains at least two thirds of the year where the suffered as we then saw great heardships for the want of food sometimes living for weeks without meat and only a little fish roots and berries. but this added Cameahwait, with his ferce eyes and lank jaws grown meager for the want of food, would not be the case if we had guns, we could then live in the country of buffaloe and eat as our enimies do and not be compelled to hide ourselves in these mountains and live on roots and berries as the bear do. we do not fear our enimies when placed on an equal footing with them. I told them that the Minnetares Mandans & Recares of the Missouri had promised us to desist from making war on them & that we would indevour to find the means of making the Minnetares of fort d Prarie or as they call them Pahkees desist from waging war against them also. that after our finally returning to our homes towards the rising sun whitemen would come to them with an abundance of guns and every other article necessary to their defence and comfort, and that they would be enabled to supply themselves with these articles on reasonable terms in exchange for the skins of the beaver Otter and Ermin so abundant in their country. they expressed great pleasure at this information and said they had been long anxious to see the whitemen that traded guns; and that we might rest assured of their friendship and that they would do whatever we wished them.
I convinced the Chief to teach me about the geography of his country. He agreed happily, drawing the rivers on the ground. However, I quickly realized that his information fell far short of my expectations. He sketched the river we were currently on and added two branches just above us, which he pointed out were visible from the mountain openings. He then showed that it flowed into a large river from the southwest, about ten miles below us. This combined waterway continued northwest for a day’s march and then veered west for two more days. He placed a number of sand heaps on each side, which he said represented the enormous rock mountains always covered in snow through which the river passed. He explained that the steep, rugged rocks tightly confined the river, making it impossible to travel along the shore. The riverbed was filled with sharp rocks, and the rapid current churned the surface into foam as far as I could see. He mentioned that the mountains were also impossible to traverse on foot or horseback, adding that neither he nor anyone from his nation had ever gone further downriver than those mountains. I then asked about the land on either side of the river, but he couldn’t tell me. He mentioned an old man from his nation who lived a day’s march below us and might have more information about the northwest area and referred me to another elder present who could speak about the southwest. The Chief also told me that he had heard from the pierced-nosed Indians living further down the river that it ran a long way toward the setting sun, eventually disappearing into a large, unpleasant-tasting lake where white men resided. I began asking the old man for details about the southwest region. He described it in alarming terms, revealing obstacles that were almost as daunting as those previously mentioned. He said his tribe lived twenty days' march away from here, not far from the white people with whom they traded for horses, mules, cloth, metal, beads, and the shells they wore as ornaments, which came from a kind of pearl oyster. The route to his people was slightly west of south. He said that reaching his people would require climbing over steep, rocky mountains for the first seven days, where there was no game to hunt—only roots that the fierce and warlike nation he called the “broken mockersons” relied on. These people lived among the rocks, feasting on roots or the flesh of horses they could capture or steal from travelers. He warned that our horses’ feet would get injured on the sharp stones, and many would likely give out. Next, the path continued for about ten days through a dry and parched sandy desert with no food for either man or horse during this season, and we would suffer—or even perish—without water. The sun had dried up the small pools of water that existed in the spring, scorching all the grass. No animals lived in this plain that we could hope to rely on for food. A large river ran through the middle of this desert, flowing from southeast to northwest—though it was navigable, it offered neither salmon nor timber. Beyond this plain, his people lived a few days' march away in a somewhat fertile land, partially covered in timber alongside another large river flowing in the same direction as the first. This river flowed into a larger one where numerous nations lived, with whom his people were at war, but he didn’t know if it emptied into the great lake or not. He also mentioned that there was still a long distance from his people to the “great” or “stinking” lake, as they called the ocean. He explained that the route used by his people who had gone to the stinking lake was up the river they lived by and over to the river near the white people, which they knew emptied into the ocean. This was the route he recommended I take if I decided to go that way, but he suggested delaying the journey until the next spring when he would guide me. I thanked him for his information and advice and gave him a knife, which he seemed very pleased with. From his narrative, I was convinced that the rivers he described were southern branches of the Columbia, originating with the Apostles and Colorado rivers, and that the route he indicated led to the Vermilion Sea or Gulf of California. I told him that this route was further south than I intended to travel and asked if there was another route along the left bank of the river we were on that could take me below the mountains. He couldn’t suggest any except for a barren plain he said connected to the mountains, which would be impossible for us to cross this season, even if we managed to escape the broken mockerson Indians. I then asked Cameahwait about the route the pierced-nosed Indians used to get to the Missouri. He told me it was to the north but added that it was a very difficult one, as they had suffered greatly from hunger along the way, living for many days on berries due to the absence of game in that area of the mountains, which were steep and so densely forested that they could hardly pass through. However, knowing that other Indians had successfully traveled that route during this season, my path was quickly set in my mind, dependent on verifying the account of the river before we began any land journey. I felt entirely confident that if the Indians could pass through the mountains with their women and children, we could too; and if the nations below the mountains were as numerous as stated, they must have some means of support that we could also obtain in the same area. They informed me that there were no buffalo on the west side of these mountains and that the available game consisted of a few elk, deer, and antelope. The locals primarily survived on fish and roots. I spent the day smoking with them, trying to gather what information I could about their land. They mentioned they could reach the Spaniards by way of the Yellowstone River in ten days. I could see that these people were not friendly toward the Spaniards; their complaint was that the Spaniards wouldn’t let them have firearms and ammunition. Instead, the Spaniards told them that if they allowed them to have guns, they would use them against each other, leaving them defenseless and vulnerable to their bloodthirsty neighbors to the east, who hunted them down and killed them without respect for gender or age, stealing their horses whenever they could. They explained that to escape their relentless enemies, they had to stay deep in the mountains for at least two-thirds of the year, where they endured great hardships for lack of food, sometimes going weeks without meat and relying only on a little fish, roots, and berries. But, Cameahwait added, with his fierce eyes and gaunt cheeks, we wouldn’t have to live like that if we had guns; then we could thrive in buffalo country and eat as our enemies do instead of hiding in the mountains and living on roots and berries like bears. We’re not afraid of our enemies when we’re on equal footing. I told them that the Minnetarees, Mandans, and Recares of the Missouri had promised us they would stop waging war against them and that we would work to persuade the Minnetarees at Fort d Prairie, whom they called Pahkees, to do the same. I explained that once we returned home toward the rising sun, white men would come to them with an abundance of guns and everything else they needed for their defense and comfort, and that they would be able to acquire these goods at reasonable prices in exchange for the abundant beaver, otter, and ermine pelts in their land. They seemed very pleased with this information and expressed a long-standing desire to see white men who trade guns, assuring me of their friendship and willingness to fulfill our wishes.
I now told Cameahwait that I wished him to speak to his people and engage them to go with me tomorrow to the forks of Jeffersons river where our baggage was by this time arrived with another Chief and a large party of whitemen who would wait my return at that place. that I wish them to take with them about 30 spare horses to transport our baggage to this place where we would then remain sometime among them and trade with them for horses, and finally concert our future plans for geting on to the ocean and of the traid which would be extended to them after our return to our homes. he complyed with my request and made a lengthey harrangue to his village. he returned in about an hour and a half and informed me that they would be ready to accompany me in the morning. I promised to reward them for their trouble. Drewyer who had had a good view of their horses estimated them at 400. most of them are fine horses. indeed many of them would make a figure on the South side of James River or the land of fine horses.—I saw several with Spanish brands on them, and some mules which they informed me that they had also obtained from the Spaniards. I also saw a bridle bit of spanish manufactary, and sundry other articles which I have no doubt were obtained from the same source. notwithstanding the extreem poverty of those poor people they are very merry they danced again this evening untill midnight. each warrior keep one ore more horses tyed by a cord to a stake near his lodge both day and night and are always prepared for action at a moments warning. they fight on horseback altogether. lobserve that the large flies are extreemly troublesome to the horses as well as ourselves.
I told Cameahwait that I wanted him to talk to his people and ask them to go with me tomorrow to the forks of Jefferson's River, where our supplies had arrived with another Chief and a large group of white men who would wait for my return there. I wanted them to bring about 30 spare horses to carry our luggage to that location, where we would stay for a while among them, trade for horses, and finally discuss our future plans for getting to the ocean and the trade that would be available to them after we returned home. He agreed to my request and gave a lengthy speech to his village. He came back in about an hour and a half and told me they would be ready to join me in the morning. I promised to reward them for their efforts. Drewyer, who had a good view of their horses, estimated there were about 400, most of which were fine horses. In fact, many of them would look impressive on the South side of James River or in an area known for its excellent horses. I saw several with Spanish brands on them and some mules that they said they had also obtained from the Spaniards. I also saw a Spanish-made bridle bit and various other items that I’m sure came from the same source. Despite the extreme poverty of these people, they are very cheerful and danced again this evening until midnight. Each warrior keeps one or more horses tied by a cord to a stake near his lodge both day and night and is always prepared for action at a moment's notice. They fight entirely on horseback. I noticed that the large flies are extremely bothersome to both the horses and us.
The morning being cold and the men stif and soar from the exertions of yesterday Capt. Clark did not set out this morning untill 7 A.M. the river was so crooked and rapid that they made but little way at one mile he passed a bold runing stream on Stard. which heads in a mountain to the North, on which there is snow. this we called track Creek. it is 4 yard wide and 3 feet deep at 7 Ms. passed a stout stream which heads in some springs under the foot of the mountains on Lard. the river near the mountain they found one continued rapid, with was extreemly laborious and difficult to ascend. this evening Charbono struck his indian Woman for which Capt. C. gave him a severe repremand. Joseph and Reubin Fields killed 4 deer and an Antelope, Capt. C. killed a buck. several of the men have lamed themselves by various accedents in working the canoes through this difficult part of the river, and Capt. C. was obliged personally to assist them in this labour. they encamped this evening on Lard. side near the rattlesnake clift
The morning was cold, and the men were stiff and sore from yesterday's efforts. Capt. Clark didn’t set out until 7 A.M. The river was so winding and fast that they made very little progress, only covering a mile. At that point, he came across a strong flowing stream on the right side, which originated from a mountain to the north that still had snow on it. They named it Track Creek. It was 4 yards wide and 3 feet deep. Seven miles later, they passed a robust stream that started from some springs at the base of the mountains on the left side. Near the mountains, the river was one long rapid that was extremely laborious and hard to navigate. That evening, Charbono struck his Indian woman, for which Capt. C. reprimanded him harshly. Joseph and Reubin Fields killed 4 deer and an antelope, while Capt. C. killed a buck. Several men injured themselves while trying to maneuver the canoes through this challenging stretch of the river, and Capt. C. had to personally help them with the work. They set up camp that evening on the left side near Rattlesnake Cliffs.
[Clark, August 14, 1805]
August 14th Wednesday 1805. a Cold morning wind from the S. W. The Thermometer Stood at 51° a 0, at Sunrise the morning being cold and men Stiff. I deturmind to delay & take brackfast at the place we Encamped. we Set out at 7 oClock and proceeded on river verry Crooked and rapid as below Some fiew trees on the borders near the mountain, passed a bold running Stream at 1 mile on the Stard. Side which heads in a mountain to the North on which there is Snow passed a bold running Stream on the Lard. Side which heads in a Spring undr. a mountain, the river near the mountain is one continued rapid, which requres great labour to push & haul the Canoes up. We Encamped on the Lard Side near the place the river passes thro the mountain. I checked our interpreter for Strikeing his woman at their Dinner.
August 14th, Wednesday, 1805. It was a cold morning with a wind coming from the southwest. The thermometer read 51° at sunrise; the morning was cold and the men were stiff. I decided to delay our departure and have breakfast where we camped. We set out at 7 o'clock and continued down the river, which was very crooked and fast-flowing, similar to before. There were a few trees along the banks near the mountain. We passed a strong-running stream on the starboard side about a mile in, which originates from a mountain to the north where there is snow. We also passed a strong-running stream on the port side, which comes from a spring under a mountain. The river near the mountain is a series of rapids, requiring significant effort to push and haul the canoes upstream. We camped on the port side near the spot where the river passes through the mountain. I confronted our interpreter for hitting his woman during their dinner.
The hunters Jo. & R. Fields killed 4 Deer & a antilope, I killed a fat Buck in the evening, Several men have hurt themselves pushing up the Canoes. I am oblige to a pole occasionally.
The hunters Jo. & R. Fields killed 4 deer and an antelope; I got a fat buck in the evening. Several guys have injured themselves lifting the canoes. I have to rely on a pole from time to time.
[Lewis, August 15, 1805]
Thursday August 15th 1805. This morning I arrose very early and as hungary as a wolf. I had eat nothing yesterday except one scant meal of the flour and berries except the dryed cakes of berries which did not appear to satisfy my appetite as they appeared to do those of my Indian friends. I found on enquiry of McNeal that we had only about two pounds of flour remaining. this I directed him to divide into two equal parts and to cook the one half this morning in a kind of pudding with the hurries as he had done yesterday and reserve the ballance for the evening. on this new fashoned pudding four of us breakfasted, giving a pretty good allowance also to the Chief who declared it the best thing he had taisted for a long time. he took a little of the Hour in his hand, taisted and examined very scrutinously and asked me if we made it of roots. I explained to him the manner in which it grew. I hurried the departure of the Indians. the Chief addressed them several times before they would move they seemed very reluctant to accompany me. I at length asked the reason and he told me that some foolish persons among them had suggested the idea that we were in league with the Pahkees and had come on in order to decoy them into an ambuscade where their enimies were waiting to receive them. but that for his part he did not believe it. I readily perceived that our situation was not entirely free from danger as the transision from suspicion to the confermation of the fact would not be very difficult in the minds of these ignorant people who have been accustomed from their infancy to view every stranger as an enimy. I told Cameahwait that I was sorry to find that they had put so little confidence in us, that I knew they were not acquainted with whitemen and therefore could forgive them. that among whitemen it was considered disgracefull to lye or entrap an enimy by falsehood. I told him if they continued to think thus meanly of us that they might rely on it that no whitemen would ever come to trade with them or bring them arms and amunition and that if the bulk of his nation still entertained this opinion I still hoped that there were some among them that were not affraid to die, that were men and would go with me and convince themselves of the truth of what I had asscerted. that there was a party of whitemen waiting my return either at the forks of Jefferson's river or a little below coining on to that place in canoes loaded with provisions and merchandize. he told me for his own part he was determined to go, that he was not affraid to die. I soon found that I had touched him on the right string; to doubt the bravery of a savage is at once to put him on his metal. he now mounted his horse and haranged his village a third time; the perport of which as he afterwards told me was to inform them that he would go with us and convince himself of the truth or falsity of what we had told him if he was sertain he should be killed, that he hoped there were some of them who heard him were not affraid to die with him and if there was to let him see them mount their horses and prepare to set out. shortly after this harange he was joined by six or eight only and with these I smoked a pipe and directed the men to put on their packs being determined to set out with them while I had them in the humour at half after 12 we set out, several of the old women were crying and imploring the great sperit to protect their warriors as if they were going to inevitable distruction. we had not proceeded far before our party was augmented by ten or twelve more, and before we reached the Creek which we had passed in the morning of the 13th it appeared to me that we had all the men of the village and a number of women with us. this may serve in some measure to ilustrate the capricious disposition of those people who never act but from the impulse of the moment. they were now very cheerfull and gay, and two hours ago they looked as sirly as so many imps of satturn. when we arrived at the spring on the side of the mountain where we had encamped on the 12th the Chief insited on halting to let the horses graize with which I complyed and gave the Indians smoke. they are excessively fond of the pipe; but have it not much in their power to indulge themselves with even their native tobacco as they do not cultivate it themselves.—after remaining about an hour we again set out, and by engaging to make compensation to four of them for their trouble obtained the previlege of riding with an indian myself and a similar situation for each of my party. I soon found it more tiresome riding without tirrups than walking and of course chose the latter making the Indian carry my pack. about sunset we reached the upper part of the level valley of the Cove which now called Shoshone Cove. the grass being birned on the North side of the river we passed over to the south and encamped near some willow brush about 4 miles above the narrow pass between the hills noticed as I came up this cove the river was here about six yards wide, and frequently darned up by the beaver. I had sent Drewyer forward this evening before we halted to kill some meat but he was unsuccessfull and did not rejoin us untill after dark I now cooked and among six of us eat the remaining pound of flour stired in a little boiling water.—Capt. Clark delayed again this morning untill after breakfast, when he set out and passed between low and rugged mountains which had a few pine trees distributed over them the clifts are formed of limestone and a hard black rock intermixed. no trees on the river, the bottoms narrow river crooked shallow shoally and rapid. the water is as coald as that of the best springs in our country. the men as usual suffered excessively with fatiegue and the coldness of the water to which they were exposed for hours together. at the distance of 6 miles by water they passed the entrance of a bold creek on Stard. side 10 yds. wide and 3 f. 3 i. deep which we called Willard's Creek after Alexander Willard one of our party. at 4 miles by water from their encampment of las evening passed a bold branch which tumbled down a steep precipice of rocks from the mountains on the Lard. Capt Clark was very near being bitten twice today by rattlesnakes, the Indian woman also narrowly escaped. they caught a number of fine trout. Capt. Clark killed a buck which was the only game killed today. the venison has an uncommon bitter taist which is unpleasent. I presume it proceeds from some article of their food, perhaps the willow on the leaves of which they feed very much. they encamped this evening on the Lard. side near a few cottonwood trees about which there were the remains of several old Indian brush lodges.
Thursday, August 15, 1805. This morning, I got up very early and was as hungry as a wolf. I had eaten nothing yesterday except for one small meal of flour and berries, along with some dried berry cakes that didn't satisfy my appetite as they seemed to do for my Indian friends. When I asked McNeal, I found out we only had about two pounds of flour left. I instructed him to split it into two equal parts and to cook half of it this morning in a kind of pudding with the hurries like he did yesterday, saving the rest for the evening. Four of us had breakfast on this new-style pudding, giving a decent portion to the Chief, who stated it was the best thing he had tasted in a long time. He took a little of the flour in his hand, tasted it, and examined it closely, asking me if we made it from roots. I explained to him how it was grown. I hurried the departure of the Indians. The Chief addressed them several times before they would move; they seemed very reluctant to accompany me. Eventually, I asked why, and he told me that some foolish people among them had suggested we were in league with the Pahkees and had come to lure them into an ambush where their enemies were waiting. But he personally didn't believe it. I quickly realized our situation wasn't entirely safe, as the shift from suspicion to confirmation of such an idea wouldn't be hard for these ignorant people, who had been taught from childhood to view every stranger as an enemy. I told Cameahwait I was sorry to see they had so little faith in us, and that I knew they weren’t familiar with white men, and could therefore forgive them. I explained that among white men, it was considered disgraceful to lie or trap an enemy through deceit. I told him if they continued to have such a low opinion of us, they could count on it that no white men would ever come to trade with them or bring them arms and ammunition. I hoped that, despite the bulk of his people holding this view, there were some among them who weren't afraid to die, who were men and would go with me to discover the truth of what I had asserted. I mentioned there was a group of white men waiting for my return either at the forks of Jefferson's River or a little further down, coming to that place in canoes filled with supplies and merchandise. He told me that he himself was determined to go and that he wasn’t afraid to die. I quickly found I had touched on the right point; to doubt the bravery of a native immediately challenges him. He then mounted his horse and addressed his village a third time; the gist of which, as he later told me, was to inform them he would go with us and find out the truth or falsehood of what we had said, even if he was certain he might be killed. He hoped some of those who heard him wouldn’t be afraid to die alongside him, and if there were, to show him by mounting their horses and preparing to leave. Shortly after this speech, he was joined by only six or eight, and with them, I smoked a pipe and directed the men to put on their packs, determined to set out with them while I had them in a good mood. At around 12:30, we set out; several of the older women were crying and imploring the great spirit to protect their warriors as if they were heading into inevitable destruction. We hadn’t gone far before our party grew by ten or twelve more, and by the time we reached the creek we had crossed on the morning of the 13th, it seemed to me that we had gathered all the men of the village along with a number of women. This illustrates, to some extent, the unpredictable nature of these people, who only act upon momentary impulses. They were now very cheerful and lively, whereas two hours ago, they looked as sour as a group of discontented spirits. When we arrived at the spring on the mountain’s side where we camped on the 12th, the Chief insisted we stop to let the horses graze, which I agreed to, and allowed the Indians to smoke. They are very fond of the pipe but don't have much opportunity to indulge in their native tobacco, as they do not cultivate it themselves. After resting for about an hour, we set out again, and by agreeing to compensate four of them for their trouble, I secured the privilege of riding with an Indian, as well as similar arrangements for each of my party. I soon found riding without stirrups was more tiring than walking, and, therefore, chose to walk while the Indian carried my pack. By sunset, we reached the upper part of the level valley of the Cove, now called Shoshone Cove. Since the grass had burned on the north side of the river, we crossed to the south and set up camp near some willow brush, about four miles above the narrow passage between the hills. As I approached this cove, I noticed the river was about six yards wide and often dammed up by beavers. I had sent Drewyer ahead this evening before we stopped to hunt for game, but he was unsuccessful and didn’t rejoin us until after dark. I then cooked what was left, and among the six of us, we consumed the remaining pound of flour stirred into some boiling water. Captain Clark delayed again this morning until after breakfast, when he set out and traveled between low, rugged mountains that had a few scattered pine trees. The cliffs were made of limestone and hard black rock mixed together. There were no trees by the river; the valleys were narrow, the water crooked, shallow, and rapid. The water was as cold as that of the best springs in our country. The men, as usual, suffered greatly from fatigue and the coldness of the water to which they were exposed for hours. At a distance of six miles by water, they passed the entrance to a bold creek on the starboard side, ten yards wide and three feet deep, which we named Willard's Creek after Alexander Willard, one of our party. Four miles by water from their campsite the night before, they encountered a vigorous branch tumbling down a steep rock face from the mountains on the port side. Captain Clark nearly got bitten twice today by rattlesnakes, and an Indian woman also narrowly escaped. They caught several fine trout. Captain Clark killed a buck, which was the only game taken today. The venison had an unusually bitter taste, which was unpleasant. I suspect it stems from something in their diet, perhaps the willows, on whose leaves they feed heavily. They made camp this evening on the port side near a few cottonwood trees, around which were the remnants of several old Indian brush lodges.
[Clark, August 15, 1805]
August 15th Thursday 1805 a Cool windey morning wind from the S W we proceeded on thro a ruged low mountain water rapid as usial passed a bold running Stream which falls from the mountain on the Lard. Side at 4 miles, also a bold running Stream 10 yards wide on the Stard Side 8 feet 3 In. Deep at 6 miles, Willards Creek the bottoms narrow, the Clifs of a Dark brown Stone Some limestone intermixed—an Indian road passes on the Lard Side latterly used. Took a Meridian altitude at the Comsnt. of the Mountain with Octent 65° 47' 0". The Latd. 44° 0' 48 1/10" proceeded on with great labour & fatigue to the Mouth of a Small run on the Lard. Side
August 15th, Thursday, 1805. It was a cool, windy morning with a breeze coming from the southwest. We moved on through a rugged, low mountain where the water was as swift as usual. We passed a strong, flowing stream that falls from the mountain on the left side after 4 miles, and another powerful stream 10 yards wide and 8 feet 3 inches deep on the right side after 6 miles. This was Willard's Creek. The bottoms were narrow, and the cliffs were made of dark brown stone with some limestone mixed in—an Indian path passes on the left side and has been used recently. I took a meridian altitude at the summit of the mountain with an octant, reading 65° 47' 0". The latitude was 44° 0' 48 1/10". We continued on with great labor and fatigue to the mouth of a small run on the left side.
passed Several Spring runs, the men Complain much of their fatigue and being repetiedly in the water which weakens them much perticularly as they are obliged to live on pore Deer meet which has a Singular bitter taste. I have no accounts of Capt Lewis Sence he Set out
passed Several Spring runs, the men complain a lot about their fatigue and being repeatedly in the water, which weakens them, especially since they have to live on poor deer meat that has a uniquely bitter taste. I have no news of Capt Lewis since he set out.
In walking on Shore I Saw Several rattle Snakes and narrowly escaped at two different times, as also the Squar when walking with her husband on Shore—I killed a Buck nothing else killed to day—This mountn. I call rattle Snake mountain. not one tree on either Side to day
In walking on the shore, I saw several rattlesnakes and narrowly escaped twice. I also saw the squaw walking with her husband on the shore. I killed a buck, but nothing else was killed today. I’m naming this mountain Rattlesnake Mountain. There wasn't a single tree on either side today.
[Lewis, August 16, 1805]
Friday August 16th 1805. I sent Drewyer and Shields before this morning in order to kill some meat as neither the Indians nor ourselves had any thing to eat. I informed the Ceif of my view in this measure, and requested that he would keep his young men with us lest by their hooping and noise they should allarm the game and we should get nothing to eat, but so strongly were there suspicions exited by this measure that two parties of discovery immediately set out one on ech side of the valley to watch the hunters as I beleive to see whether they had not been sent to give information of their approach to an enemy that they still preswaided themselves were lying in wait for them. I saw that any further effort to prevent their going would only add strength to their suspicions and therefore said no more. after the hunters had been gone about an hour we set out. we had just passed through the narrows when we saw one of the spies comeing up the level plain under whip, the chief pawsed a little and seemed somewhat concerned. I felt a good deel so myself and began to suspect that by some unfortunate accedent that perhaps some of there enimies had straggled hither at this unlucky moment; but we were all agreeably disappointed on the arrival of the young man to learn that he had come to inform us that one of the whitemen had killed a deer. in an instant they all gave their horses the whip and I was taken nearly a mile before I could learn what were the tidings; as I was without tirrups and an Indian behind me the jostling was disagreeable I therefore reigned up my horse and forbid the indian to whip him who had given him the lash at every jum for a mile fearing he should loose a part of the feast. the fellow was so uneasy that he left me the horse dismounted and ran on foot at full speed, I am confident a mile. when they arrived where the deer was which was in view of me they dismounted and ran in tumbling over each other like a parcel of famished dogs each seizing and tearing away a part of the intestens which had been previously thrown out by Drewyer who killed it; the seen was such when I arrived that had I not have had a pretty keen appetite myself I am confident I should not have taisted any part of the venison shortly. each one had a peice of some discription and all eating most ravenously. some were eating the kidnies the melt and liver and the blood runing from the corners of their mouths, others were in a similar situation with the paunch and guts but the exuding substance in this case from their lips was of a different discription. one of the last who attacted my attention particularly had been fortunate in his allotment or reather active in the division, he had provided himself with about nine feet of the small guts one end of which he was chewing on while with his hands he was squezzing the contents out at the other. I really did not untill now think that human nature ever presented itself in a shape so nearly allyed to the brute creation. I viewed these poor starved divils with pity and compassion I directed McNeal to skin the deer and reserved a quarter, the ballance I gave the Chief to be divided among his people; they devoured the whole of it nearly without cooking. I now boar obliquely to the left in order to interscept the creek where there was some brush to make a fire, and arrived at this stream where Drewyer had killed a second deer; here nearly the same seene was encored. a fire being kindled we cooked and eat and gave the ballance of the two deer to the Indians who eat the whole of them even to the soft parts of the hoofs. Drewyer joined us at breakfast with a third deer. of this I reserved a quarter and gave the ballance to the Indians. they all appeared now to have filled themselves and were in a good humour. this morning early soon after the hunters set out a considerable part of our escort became allarmed and returned 28 men and three women only continued with us. after eating and suffering the horses to graize about 2 hours we renued our march and towads evening arrived at the lower part of the cove Shields killed an Antelope on the way a part of which we took and gave the remainder to the Indians. being now informed of the place at which I expected to meat Capt C. and the party they insisted on making a halt, which was complyed with. we now dismounted and the Chief with much cerimony put tippets about our necks such as they temselves woar I redily perceived that this was to disguise us and owed it's origine to the same cause already mentioned. to give them further confidence I put my cocked hat with feather on the chief and my over shirt being of the Indian form my hair deshivled and skin well browned with the sun I wanted no further addition to make me a complete Indian in appearance the men followed my example and we were son completely metamorphosed. I again repeated to them the possibility of the party not having arrived at the place which I expected they were, but assured them they could not be far below, lest by not finding them at the forks their suspicions might arrise to such hight as to induce them to return precipitately. we now set out and rode briskly within sight of the forks making one of the Indians carry the flag that our own party should know who we were. when we arrived in sight at the distance of about 2 miles I discovered to my mortification that the party had not arrived, and the Indians slackened their pace. I now scarcely new what to do and feared every moment when they would halt altogether, I now determined to restore their confidence cost what it might and therefore gave the Chief my gun and told him that if his enimies were in those bushes before him that he could defend himself with that gun, that for my own part I was not affraid to die and if I deceived him he might make what uce of the gun he thought proper or in other words that he might shoot me. the men also gave their guns to other indians which seemed to inspire them with more confidence; they sent their spies before them at some distance and when I drew near the place I thought of the notes which I had left and directed Drewyer to go with an Indian man and bring them to me which he did. the indian seeing him take the notes from the stake on which they had been plased I now had recource to a stratagem in which I thought myself justifyed by the occasion, but which I must confess set a little awkward. it had it's desired effect. after reading the notes which were the same I had left I told the Chief that when I had left my brother Chief with the party below where the river entered the mountain that we both agreed not to bring the canoes higher up than the next forks of the river above us wherever this might happen, that there he was to wait my return, should he arrive first, and that in the event of his not being able to travel as fast as usual from the difficulty of the water, that he was to send up to the first forks above him and leave a note informing me where he was, that this note was left here today and that he informed me that he was just below the mountains and was coming on slowly up, and added that I should wait here for him, but if they did not beleive me that I should send a man at any rate to the Chief and they might also send one of their young men with him, that myself and two others would remain with them at this place. this plan was readily adopted and one of the young men offered his services; I promised him a knife and some beads as a reward for his confidence in us. most of them seemed satisfyed but there were several that complained of the Chief's exposing them to danger unnecessarily and said that we told different stories, in short a few were much dissatisfyed. I wrote a note to Capt. Clark by the light of some willow brush and directed Drewyer to set out early being confident that there was not a moment to spare. the chief and five or six others slept about my fire and the others hid themselves in various parts of the willow brush to avoid the enimy whom they were fearfull would attack them in the course of the night. I now entertained various conjectures myself with rispect to the cause of Capt. Clarks detention and was even fearful l that he had found the river so difficult that he had halted below the Rattlesnake bluffs. I knew that if these people left me that they would immediately disperse and secrete themselves in the mountains where it would be impossible to find them or at least in vain to pursue them and that they would spread the allarm to all other bands within our reach & of course we should be disappointed in obtaining horses, which would vastly retard and increase the labour of our voyage and I feared might so discourage the men as to defeat the expedition altogether. my mind was in reallity quite as gloomy all this evening as the most affrighted indian but I affected cheerfullness to keep the Indians so who were about me. we finally laid down and the Chief placed himself by the side of my musquetoe bier. I slept but little as might be well expected, my mind dwelling on the state of the expedition which I have ever held in equal estimation with my own existence, and the fait of which appeared at this moment to depend in a great measure upon the caprice of a few savages who are ever as fickle as the wind. I had mentioned to the chief several times that we had with us a woman of his nation who had been taken prisoner by the Minnetares, and that by means of her I hoped to explain myself more fully than I could do by signs. some of the party had also told the Indians that we had a man with us who was black and had short curling hair, this had excited their curiossity very much. and they seemed quite as anxious to see this monster as they wer the merchandize which we had to barter for their horses.
Friday, August 16, 1805. I sent Drewyer and Shields ahead this morning to hunt for food since neither we nor the Indians had anything to eat. I informed the Chief of my plan and asked him to keep his young men close by to prevent them from making noise that could scare off the game, but my request raised suspicions. Two separate groups quickly set out on either side of the valley to watch the hunters, likely to ensure they weren’t signaling an enemy they believed was lying in wait for them. I noticed that trying to prevent their departure would only heighten their suspicions, so I said nothing more. After the hunters had been gone for about an hour, we set out. We had just passed through the narrows when I saw one of the spies coming up the flat plain at a fast pace; the chief paused for a moment, looking concerned. I felt quite uneasy too and began to suspect that some of their enemies might have straggled into the area at this unfortunate moment. However, we were pleasantly surprised when the young man arrived to tell us that one of the white men had killed a deer. Instantly, everyone whipped their horses into a run, and it took me almost a mile to find out what the news was. Since I was without stirrups and had an Indian behind me, the jostling was uncomfortable. I reined in my horse and told the Indian to stop whipping him, who had been driving him on every bump for a mile, fearing he would lose out on the feast. The fellow was so restless that he dismounted and sprinted on foot, I’m sure for at least a mile. When they reached the spot where the deer had fallen, which I could see, they dismounted and rushed in, tumbling over one another like a pack of starving dogs, each grabbing and tearing away at the entrails that Drewyer had discarded after killing it. The scene was such that had I not had a strong appetite myself, I’m certain I wouldn’t have tasted any of the venison. Each one had a piece of some sort, eating most ravenously. Some were gnawing on the kidneys, heart, and liver with blood running from the corners of their mouths; others were in the same messy situation with the stomach and intestines, but the substance dribbling from their lips was of a different nature. One of the last to catch my attention had been lucky in his share, or rather, he was particularly aggressive in division. He had secured about nine feet of the intestines, chewing one end while squeezing the contents out with his hands at the other. I honestly didn’t think human nature could be so closely aligned with the animal kingdom. I looked at these poor, starved souls with pity and directed McNeal to skin the deer and saved a quarter for ourselves, giving the rest to the Chief for his people to share; they devoured nearly all of it without cooking. I then veered left to intercept a creek where there was some brush to make a fire and arrived at the stream where Drewyer had killed a second deer; here, the same scene played out. A fire was kindled, and we cooked, eating and giving the remainder of the two deer to the Indians, who consumed everything, even the soft parts of the hooves. Drewyer joined us at breakfast with a third deer. I saved a quarter of this and gave the rest to the Indians. They all seemed satisfied now, having filled themselves and were in good spirits. Early this morning, shortly after the hunters left, a significant part of our escort became alarmed and returned; only 28 men and three women stayed with us. After eating and letting the horses graze for about two hours, we resumed our march and arrived at the lower part of the cove in the evening. Shields killed an antelope on the way; we took part of it and gave the rest to the Indians. Now informed about where I expected to meet Captain Clark and his party, they insisted on making a stop, which I agreed to. We dismounted, and the Chief, with much ceremony, placed tippets around our necks similar to what they wore themselves. I quickly saw that this was to disguise us, originating from the same reason I’d mentioned before. To give them more confidence, I put my cocked hat with a feather on the Chief, and with my overshirt being of Indian-style, my hair disheveled and skin well-tanned by the sun, I needed no further additions to appear completely Indian. The men followed my lead, and we were soon fully transformed. I again reminded them of the possibility that the party might not have arrived at the place I expected, but assured them they couldn’t be far below. I worried that if they didn’t find them at the forks, their suspicions might escalate, leading them to turn back quickly. We set out again, riding briskly within sight of the forks, with one of the Indians carrying the flag so our own party would recognize us. When we got within about two miles, I felt a sinking feeling at the sight of the party missing, and the Indians slowed their pace. I was at a loss for what to do and feared they would soon halt completely. I decided to restore their confidence, no matter the cost, and gave the Chief my gun, telling him that if his enemies were in those bushes, he could defend himself with it. I added that I wasn’t afraid to die, and if I misled him, he was free to use the gun on me. The men also handed their guns to other Indians, which seemed to inspire more confidence; they sent their spies ahead a bit, and when I reached the area where I left the notes, I directed Drewyer to go with an Indian and retrieve them, which he did. The Indian saw him take the notes from the stake where I had left them. I then resorted to a strategy I felt justified in doing but that felt slightly awkward. It worked as intended. After reading the notes, which were the same as those I had left, I told the Chief that when I left my brother Chief with the party below where the river entered the mountains, we both agreed not to bring the canoes any higher than the next forks of the river above us, wherever that might be. There, he would wait for my return if he arrived first, and if he couldn’t travel as fast due to difficulties with the water, he was to send word to the first forks above him, leaving a note about where he was. I said that this note was left here today, informing me that he was just below the mountains and coming slowly. I added that I should wait for him here, but if they didn’t believe me, I would send a man to the Chief, and they could also send one of their young men with him, while I and two others would stay behind at this location. This plan was readily accepted, and one of the young men volunteered. I promised him a knife and some beads as a reward for his trust in us. Most appeared satisfied, but a few complained about the Chief exposing them to unnecessary danger, insisting we told conflicting stories; in short, a few were quite dissatisfied. I wrote a note to Captain Clark by the light of some willow brush and instructed Drewyer to set out early, as I was sure there wasn’t a moment to lose. The Chief and five or six others slept by my fire, while the others hid in various parts of the willow brush to avoid the enemies they feared might attack during the night. I entertained various thoughts regarding Captain Clark's delay and even feared he had found the river so challenging that he stopped below the Rattlesnake bluffs. I knew if these people deserted me, they would quickly disperse and hide in the mountains, making it impossible to find them, or any pursuit would be futile. They would alarm all other bands within reach, and we would be disappointed in securing horses, which would significantly slow us down and increase the difficulty of our journey, potentially discouraging the men enough to derail the expedition altogether. My thoughts were genuinely as gloomy as the most frightened Indian that evening, yet I tried to maintain cheerfulness to reassure those around me. Eventually, we lay down, and the Chief positioned himself next to my makeshift bed. I barely slept, as one might expect, my mind consumed with the state of the expedition, which I valued as highly as my own existence, and its fate seemed to depend greatly on the whims of a few unpredictable savages. I had mentioned to the Chief several times that we had a woman of his nation with us, who had been taken prisoner by the Minnetarees, and that through her, I hoped to communicate more clearly than by gestures. Some of our party had also told the Indians that we had a black man with us who had short, curly hair, which piqued their curiosity considerably. They seemed just as eager to see this "monster" as they were the goods we had to trade for their horses.
at 7 A M. Capt. C. set out after breakfast. he changed the hands in some of the canoes; they proceeded with more ease than yesterday, yet they found the river still rapid and shallow insomuch that they were obliged to drag the large canoes the greater part of the day. the water excessively cold. in the evening they passed several bad rapids. considerable quantities of the buffaloe clover grows along the narrow bottoms through which they passed. there was no timber except a few scatiring small pine on the hills. willow service berry and currant bushes were the growth of the river bottoms. they geatherd considerable quantities of service berries, and caught some trout. one deer was killed by the hunters who slept out last night. and did not join the party untill 10 A.M.
At 7 A.M., Captain C. set out after breakfast. He switched some of the paddlers in the canoes; they moved more smoothly than yesterday, but they still found the river to be fast and shallow, so they had to drag the large canoes for most of the day. The water was extremely cold. In the evening, they encountered several difficult rapids. A significant amount of buffalo clover grows along the narrow valleys they traveled through. There was no timber except for a few scattered small pines on the hills. Willow, serviceberry, and currant bushes were found in the river bottoms. They gathered a good amount of serviceberries and caught some trout. One deer was killed by the hunters who camped out last night and didn’t join the group until 10 A.M.
Capt. Clark sent the hunters this evening up to the forks of the river which he discovered from an eminence; they mus have left this place but a little time before we arrived. this evening they encamped on the Lard. side only a few miles below us. and were obliged like ourselves to make use of small willow brush for fuel. the men were much fatigued and exhausted this evening.
Capt. Clark sent the hunters this evening to the forks of the river he discovered from a high point; they must have left this place only a short time before we got here. This evening, they set up camp on the left bank just a few miles below us and, like us, had to rely on small willow brush for firewood. The men were very tired and worn out this evening.
[Clark, August 16, 1805]
August 16th Friday 1805 as this morning was cold and the men fatigued Stiff and Chilled deturmined me to detain & take brackfast before I Set out. I changed the hands and Set out at 7 oClock proceeded on Something better than yesterday for the fore part of the Day passed Several rapids in the latter part of the day near the hills river passed between 2 hills I saw a great number of Service berries now ripe. the Yellow Current are also Common I observe the long leaf Clover in great plenty in the vallie below this vallie—Some fiew tres on the river no timber on the hills or mountn. except a fiew Small Pine & Cedar. The Thmtr. Stood at 48° a. 0 at Sunrise wind S W. The hunters joined me at 1 oClock, I dispatched 2 men to prosue an Indian roade over the hills for a fiew miles, at the narrows I assended a mountain from the top of which I could See that the river forked near me the left hand appeared the largest & bore S. E. the right passed from the West thro an extensive Vallie, I could See but three Small trees in any Direction from the top of this mountain. passed an Isld. and Encamped ion the Lard. Side the only wood was Small willows
August 16th, Friday, 1805. This morning was cold, and the men were tired, stiff, and chilled, which made me decide to stay and have breakfast before we set out. I switched the watch and left at 7 o'clock. We made better progress than yesterday for the first part of the day, passing several rapids. In the latter part of the day, near the hills, the river flowed between two hills. I noticed a lot of ripe serviceberries, and yellow currants were also common. I observed a plentiful amount of longleaf clover in the valley below this valley. There were a few trees along the river, but no timber on the hills or mountains, just a few small pines and cedars. The thermometer stood at 48° at sunrise with a southwest wind. The hunters joined me at 1 o'clock, and I sent two men to follow an Indian trail over the hills for a few miles. At the narrows, I climbed a mountain, and from the top, I could see that the river forked nearby. The left-hand fork looked larger and flowed southeast, while the right fork came from the west through an extensive valley. I could see only three small trees in any direction from the top of this mountain. We passed an island and camped on the left bank; the only wood there was small willows.
[Lewis, August 17, 1805]
Saturday August 17th 1805. This morning I arrose very early and dispatched Drewyer and the Indian down the river. sent Shields to hunt. I made McNeal cook the remainder of our meat which afforded a slight breakfast for ourselves and the Cheif. Drewyer had been gone about 2 hours when an Indian who had straggled some little distance down the river returned and reported that the whitemen were coming, that he had seen them just below. they all appeared transported with joy, & the chef repeated his fraturnal hug. I felt quite as much gratifyed at this information as the Indians appeared to be. Shortly after Capt. Clark arrived with the Interpreter Charbono, and the Indian woman, who proved to be a sister of the Chif Cameahwait. the meeting of those people was really affecting, particularly between Sah cah-gar-we-ah and an Indian woman, who had been taken prisoner at the same time with her, and who had afterwards escaped from the Minnetares and rejoined her nation. At noon the Canoes arrived, and we had the satisfaction once more to find ourselves all together, with a flattering prospect of being able to obtain as many horses shortly as would enable us to prosicute our voyage by land should that by water be deemed unadvisable.
Saturday, August 17th, 1805. This morning, I woke up very early and sent Drewyer and the Indian down the river. I sent Shields to hunt. I made McNeal cook the rest of our meat, which gave us a light breakfast for ourselves and the Chief. Drewyer had been gone about 2 hours when an Indian who had wandered a little down the river returned and reported that the white men were coming, that he had seen them just below. They all seemed overwhelmed with joy, and the chief gave his brotherly hug again. I felt just as pleased with this news as the Indians appeared to be. Shortly after, Capt. Clark arrived with the Interpreter Charbono and the Indian woman, who turned out to be a sister of Chief Cameahwait. The reunion of these people was truly moving, especially between Sah cah-gar-we-ah and an Indian woman who had been taken prisoner at the same time as her, and who had later escaped from the Minnetares and rejoined her people. At noon, the canoes arrived, and we were pleased to find ourselves all together once more, with a promising outlook of being able to get as many horses as we would need to continue our journey by land if traveling by water seemed unwise.
We now formed our camp just below the junction of the forks on the Lard. side in a level smooth bottom covered with a fine terf of greenswoard. here we unloaded our canoes and arranged our baggage on shore; formed a canopy of one of our large sails and planted some willow brush in the ground to form a shade for the Indians to set under while we spoke to them, which we thought it best to do this evening. acordingly about 4 P.M. we called them together and through the medium of Labuish, Charbono and Sah-cah-gar-weah, we communicated to them fully the objects which had brought us into this distant part of the country, in which we took care to make them a conspicuous object of our own good wishes and the care of our government. we made them sensible of their dependance on the will of our government for every species of merchandize as well for their defence & comfort; and apprized them of the strength of our government and it's friendly dispositions towards them. we also gave them as a reason why we wished to petrate the country as far as the ocean to the west of them was to examine and find out a more direct way to bring merchandize to them. that as no trade could be carryed on with them before our return to our homes that it was mutually advantageous to them as well as to ourselves that they should render us such aids as they had it in their power to furnish in order to haisten our voyage and of course our return home. that such were their horses to transport our baggage without which we could not subsist, and that a pilot to conduct us through the mountains was also necessary if we could not decend the river by water. but that we did not ask either their horses or their services without giving a satisfactory compensation in return. that at present we wished them to collect as many horses as were necessary to transport our baggage to their village on the Columbia where we would then trade with them at our leasure for such horses as they could spare us.—They appeared well pleased with what had been said. the chief thanked us for friendship towards himself and nation & declared his wish to serve us in every rispect; that he was sorry to find that it must yet be some time before they could be furnished with firearms but said they could live as they had done heretofore untill we brought them as we had promised. he said they had not horses enough with them at present to remove our baggage to their village over the mountain, but that he would return tomorrow and encourage his people to come over with their horses and that he would bring his own and assist us. this was complying with all we wished at present. we next enquired who were chiefs among them. Cameahwait pointed out two others whom he said were Chiefs we gave him a medal of the small size with the likeness of Mr. Jefferson the President of the U States in releif on one side and clasp hands with a pipe and tomahawk on the other, to the other Chiefs we gave each a small medal which were struck in the Presidency of George Washing Esqr. we also gave small medals of the last discription to two young men whom the 1st Chief informed us wer good young men and much rispected among them. we gave the 1st Chief an uniform coat shirt a pair of scarlet legings a carrot of tobacco and some small articles to each of the others we gave a shirt leging handkerchief a knife some tobacco and a few small articles we also distributed a good quantity paint mockerson awls knives beads lookingglasses &c among the other Indians and gave them a plentifull meal of lyed corn which was the first they had ever eaten in their lives. they were much pleased with it. every article about us appeared to excite astonishment in ther minds; the appearance of the men, their arms, the canoes, our manner of working them, the back man york and the segacity of my dog were equally objects of admiration. I also shot my air-gun which was so perfectly incomprehensible that they immediately denominated it the great medicine. the idea which the indians mean to convey by this appellation is something that eminates from or acts immediately by the influence or power of the great sperit; or that in which the power of god is manifest by it's incomprehensible power of action. our hunters killed 4 deer and an Antelope this evening of which we also gave the Indians a good proportion. the cerimony of our council and smoking the pipe was in conformity of the custom of this nation perfomed bearfoot. on those occasions points of etiquet are quite as much attended to by the Indians as among scivilized nations. To keep indians in a good humour you must not fatiegue them with too much business at one time. therefore after the council we gave them to eat and amused them a while by shewing them such articles as we thought would be entertaining to them, and then renewed our enquiries with rispect to the country. the information we derived was only a repetition of that they had given me before and in which they appeared to be so candid that I could not avoid yealing confidence to what they had said. Capt. Clark and myself now concerted measures for our future operations, and it was mutually agreed that he should set out tomorrow morning with eleven men furnished with axes and other necessary tools for making canoes, their arms accoutrements and as much of their baggage as they could carry. also to take the indians Carbono and the indian woman with him; that on his arrival at the Shoshone camp he was to leave Charbono and the Indian woman to haisten the return of the Indians with their horses to this place, and to proceede himself with the eleven men down the Columbia in order to examine the river and if he found it navigable and could obtain timber to set about making canoes immediately. In the mean time I was to bring on the party and baggage to the Shoshone Camp, calculating that by the time I should reach that place that he would have sufficiently informed himself with rispect to the state of the river &c. as to determine us whether to prosicute our journey from thence by land or water. in the former case we should want all the horses which we could perchase, the latter only to hire the Indians to transport our baggage to the place at which we made the canoes. in order to inform me as early as possible of the state of the river he was to send back one of the men with the necessary information as soon as he should satisfy himself on this subject. this plan being settled we gave orders accordingly and the men prepared for an early march. the nights are very cold and the sun excessively hot in the day. we have no fuel here but a few dry willow brush. and from the appearance of country I am confident we shall not find game here to subsist us many days. these are additional reasons why I conceive it necessary to get under way as soon as possible.—this morning Capt. Clark had delayed untill 7 A.M. before he set out just about which time Drewyer arrived with the Indian; he left the canoes to come on after him, and immediately set out and joined me as has been before mentioned.The sperits of the men were now much elated at the prospect of geting horses.
We set up our camp just below where the forks meet on the Lard side in a smooth, flat area covered with a nice patch of grass. Here, we unloaded our canoes and organized our gear on the shore; we made a canopy from one of our large sails and planted some willow branches in the ground to create shade for the Indians while we talked to them, which we thought was best to do this evening. Around 4 PM, we gathered them together and, with the help of Labuish, Charbono, and Sah-cah-gar-weah, we fully explained the reasons for our presence in this remote area, emphasizing our good intentions and our government's care for them. We made them aware of their dependence on our government for all kinds of goods and for their safety and comfort; we informed them of our government’s strength and its friendly attitude toward them. We explained that one reason we wanted to explore the country all the way to the ocean to the west was to find a more direct route to bring goods to them. Since no trade could happen until we returned home, it was mutually beneficial for them and us to help us expedite our journey and our return home. We mentioned that their horses were essential for transporting our baggage, without which we could not survive, and also that we needed a guide to lead us through the mountains if we couldn't travel down the river by water. However, we assured them we weren’t asking for their horses or help without offering something in return. At that moment, we wanted them to gather enough horses to transport our baggage to their village on the Columbia, where we would trade with them at our leisure for the horses they could spare. They seemed pleased with what we said. The chief thanked us for our friendship toward him and his nation and expressed his desire to help us in every way. He regretted that it would take some time before they could have firearms but noted that they could manage as they had before until we brought them as we promised. He mentioned that they didn’t have enough horses right now to move our baggage over the mountain to their village, but he promised to return tomorrow and encourage his people to come with their horses, and he would bring his own to help us. This was exactly what we needed at that moment. We then asked who the chiefs were among them. Cameahwait pointed out two others, whom he identified as chiefs. We gave him a small medal featuring the likeness of Mr. Jefferson, the President of the United States, on one side and clasped hands with a pipe and tomahawk on the other side. To the other chiefs, we gave each a small medal created during George Washington's presidency. We also gave small medals of the same type to two young men who the first chief told us were good and well-respected young men. We gave the first chief a uniform coat, a shirt, a pair of red leggings, a carrot of tobacco, and a few small items. To each of the others, we provided a shirt, leggings, a handkerchief, a knife, some tobacco, and a few small items as well. We also distributed a good amount of paint, trade goods like awls, knives, beads, looking glasses, etc., among the other Indians and provided them with a plentiful meal of lye-treated corn, which was the first they had ever eaten. They were very pleased with it. Everything about us seemed to astonish them; our appearance, our weapons, the canoes, how we used them, our man York, and the cleverness of my dog were all sources of admiration. I also fired my air gun, which was so mysterious to them they instantly called it the great medicine. The term they used refers to something that comes from or acts directly through the influence or power of the great spirit, or something that reveals God's power through its incomprehensible ability to act. Our hunters took down four deer and an antelope that evening, of which we also shared a good amount with the Indians. The ceremony of our council and smoking the pipe was in line with the customs of their nation, performed barefoot. On such occasions, points of etiquette are just as important to the Indians as they are in civilized societies. To keep the Indians in good spirits, you shouldn’t tire them with too much business at once. Therefore, after the council, we fed them and entertained them for a while by showing them items we thought would interest them, and then we resumed our questions about the land. The information we gathered repeated what they had shared with me earlier, and they seemed so open that I had no choice but to trust what they said. Captain Clark and I now planned our next steps, and we agreed he would set out tomorrow morning with eleven men equipped with axes and other necessary tools for making canoes, along with their weapons and as much of their gear as they could carry. He would also take the Indians Charbono and the Indian woman with him; when he got to the Shoshone camp, he would leave Charbono and the woman to encourage the return of the Indians with their horses to this spot, while he would proceed with the eleven men down the Columbia to check the river and see if it was navigable and if he could gather timber to start making canoes right away. In the meantime, I was to bring the party and baggage to the Shoshone camp, planning that by the time I reached there, he would have gathered enough information about the river's condition to decide whether we should continue our journey from there by land or water. If we chose land, we would need to buy all the horses we could, but if we went by water, we’d only need to hire the Indians to carry our gear to where we would build the canoes. To keep me updated on the state of the river as soon as possible, he was to send one of the men back with the necessary information as soon as he figured that out. Once this plan was settled, we gave orders accordingly, and the men prepared for an early departure. The nights are very cold, and the sun gets extremely hot during the day. We had no fuel here except for some dry willow branches, and from what I could see in the area, I was sure we wouldn't find enough game here to sustain us for long. These were additional reasons I thought it was crucial to get moving as soon as possible. This morning, Captain Clark delayed his departure until 7 AM, just around the time Drewyer arrived with the Indian. He left the canoes to follow him and immediately set out to join me, as mentioned before. The spirits of the men were now high at the prospect of getting horses.
[Clark, August 17, 1805]
August 17th Satturday 1805 a fair Cold morning wind S. W. the Thermometer at 42 a. 0 at Sunrise, We Set out at 7 oClock and proceeded on to the forks I had not proceeded on one mile before I saw at a distance Several Indians on horsback Comeing towards me, The Intertrepeter & Squar who were before me at Some distance danced for the joyful Sight, and She made signs to me that they were her nation, as I aproached nearer them descovered one of Capt Lewis party With them dressed in their Dress; the met me with great Signs of joy, as the Canoes were proceeding on nearly opposit me I turned those people & joined Capt Lewis who had Camped with 16 of those Snake Indians at the forks 2 miles in advance. those Indians Sung all the way to their Camp where the others had provd. a cind of Shade of Willows Stuck up in a Circle the Three Chiefs with Capt. Lewis met me with great cordialliaty embraced and took a Seat on a white robe, the Main Chief imedeately tied to my hair Six Small pieces of Shells resembling perl which is highly Valued by those people and is prcured from the nations resideing near the Sea Coast. we then Smoked in their fassion without Shoes and without much cerimoney and form.
August 17th, Saturday, 1805, it was a cool morning with a southwest wind. The thermometer read 42°F at sunrise. We set out at 7 o'clock and headed to the forks. I had barely gone a mile when I spotted several Indians on horseback coming toward me. The interpreter and the woman who were ahead of me at some distance danced with joy at the sight, and she signaled to me that they were from her tribe. As I got closer, I recognized one of Captain Lewis's party with them, dressed in their attire. They greeted me with great signs of joy. Since the canoes were moving nearly opposite me, I turned back to join Captain Lewis, who had camped with 16 of those Snake Indians at the forks, 2 miles ahead. The Indians sang the whole way to their camp, where the others had found a kind of shade under willow branches arranged in a circle. The three chiefs and Captain Lewis welcomed me warmly, embraced me, and offered me a seat on a white robe. The main chief immediately tied six small pieces of shells resembling pearls in my hair, which are highly valued by these people and are obtained from the nations living near the coast. We then smoked in their fashion, without shoes and without much ceremony.
Capt Lewis informed me he found those people on the Columbia River about 40 miles from the forks at that place there was a large camp of them, he had purswaded those with him to Come and See that what he said was the truth, they had been under great apprehension all the way, for fear of their being deceived. The Great Chief of this nation proved to be the brother of the Woman with us and is a man of Influence Sence & easey & reserved manners, appears to possess a great deel of Cincerity. The Canoes arrived & unloaded—every thing appeared to asstonish those people. the appearance of the men, their arms, the Canoes, the Clothing my black Servent. & the Segassity of Capt Lewis's Dog. we Spoke a fiew words to them in the evening respecting our rout intentions our want of horses &c. & gave them a fiew presents & medals—we made a number of inquires of those people about the Columbia River the Countrey game &c. The account they gave us was verry unfavourable, that the River abounded in emence falls, one perticularly much higher than the falls of the Missouri & at the place the mountains Closed So Close that it was impracticable to pass, & that the ridge Continued on each Side of perpendicular Clifts inpenetratable, and that no Deer Elk or any game was to be found in that Countrey, aded to that they informed us that there was no timber on the river Sufficiently large to make Small Canoes, This information (if true is alarming) I deturmined to go in advance and examine the Countrey, See if those dificueltes presented themselves in the gloomey picture in which they painted them, and if the river was practiable and I could find timber to build Canoes, those Ideas & plan appeard to be agreeable to Capt Lewis's Ideas on this point, and I selected 11 men, directed them to pack up their baggage Complete themselves with amunition, take each an ax and Such tools as will be Soutable to build Canoes, and be ready to Set out at 10 oClock tomorrow morning. Those people greatly pleased our hunters killed three Deer & an antilope which was eaten in a Short time the Indians being so harrassed & compelled to move about in those rugid mountains that they are half Starved liveing at this time on berries & roots which they geather in the plains. Those people are not begerley but generous, only one has asked me for anything and he for powder.
Capt. Lewis told me he found those people on the Columbia River about 40 miles from the forks. There was a large camp of them there, and he had convinced those with him to come and see that what he said was true. They had been very anxious the whole way because they were afraid of being tricked. The Great Chief of this nation turned out to be the brother of the woman with us and is a man of influence, calm and reserved manners, who seems to have a lot of sincerity. The canoes arrived and unloaded—everything appeared to astonish those people: the appearance of the men, their weapons, the canoes, the clothes, my Black servant, and the agility of Capt. Lewis's dog. We spoke a few words to them in the evening about our route, intentions, and need for horses, and gave them a few presents and medals. We asked them many questions about the Columbia River, the country, the game, etc. The account they gave us was very unfavorable, saying that the river had immense falls, one particularly much higher than the falls of the Missouri, and that at the place the mountains were so close together that it was impossible to pass. They said the ridge continued on each side with steep cliffs that were impenetrable, and that no deer, elk, or any game could be found in that country. In addition, they informed us that there was no wood on the river large enough to make small canoes. This information (if true) is alarming. I decided to go ahead and examine the country to see if those difficulties were as grim as they painted them, and whether the river was navigable and if I could find timber to build canoes. These ideas and plans seemed to align with Capt. Lewis's thoughts on the matter. I selected 11 men, instructed them to pack up their gear completely, arm themselves with ammunition, take an ax and any tools suitable for building canoes, and be ready to set out at 10 o'clock tomorrow morning. The people were very pleased; our hunters killed three deer and an antelope, which were eaten quickly since the Indians were so harassed and forced to move around in these rugged mountains that they are half-starved, living off berries and roots they gather in the plains. These people are not beggarly but generous; only one has asked me for anything, and that was for powder.
This nation Call themselves Cho-shop-ne the Chief is name Too-et-te-con'l Black Gun is his war name Ka-me-ah-wah—or Come & Smoke. this Chief gave me the following name and pipe Ka-me-ah-wah.
This nation calls themselves Cho-shop-ne. The chief's name is Too-et-te-con'l, and Black Gun is his war name, Ka-me-ah-wah—or Come & Smoke. This chief gave me the following name and pipe: Ka-me-ah-wah.
[Lewis, August 18, 1805]
Sunday August 18th 1805. This morning while Capt Clark was busily engaged in preparing for his rout, I exposed some articles to barter with the Indians for horses as I wished a few at this moment to releive the men who were going with Capt Clark from the labour of carrying their baggage and also one to keep here in order to pack the meat to camp which the hunters might kill. I soon obtained three very good horses for which I gave an uniform coat, a pair of legings, a few handkerchiefs, three knives and some other small articles the whole of which did not cost more than about 20$ in the U States. the Indians seemed quite as well pleased with their bargin as I was. the men also purchased one for an old checked shirt a pair of old legings and a knife. two of those I purchased Capt. C. took on with him. at 10 A.M. Capt. Clark departed with his detatchment and all the Indians except 2 men and 2 women who remained with us. Two of the inferior chiefs were a little displeased at not having received a present equivolent to that given the first Chief. to releive this difficulty Capt. Clark bestoed a couple of his old coats on them and I promised that if they wer active in assisting me over the mountains with horses that I would give them an additional present; this seemed perfectly to satisfy them and they all set out in a good humour. Capt. Clark encamped this evening near the narrow pass between the hills on Jefferson's river in the Shoshone Cove. his hunters killed one deer which the party with the aid of the Indians readily consumed in the course of the evening.—after there departure this morning I had all the stores and baggage of every discription opened and aired. and began the operation of forming the packages in proper parsels for the purpose of transporting them on horseback. the rain in the evening compelled me to desist from my operations. I had the raw hides put in the water in order to cut them in throngs proper for lashing the packages and forming the necessary geer for pack horses, a business which I fortunately had not to learn on this occasion. Drewyer Killed one deer this evening. a beaver was also caught by one of the party. I had the net arranged and set this evening to catch some trout which we could see in great abundance at the bottom of the river. This day I completed my thirty first year, and conceived that I had in all human probability now existed about half the period which I am to remain in this Sublunary world. I reflected that I had as yet done but little, very little indeed, to further the hapiness of the human race, or to advance the information of the succeeding generation. I viewed with regret the many hours I have spent in indolence, and now soarly feel the want of that information which those hours would have given me had they been judiciously expended. but since they are past and cannot be recalled, I dash from me the gloomy thought and resolved in future, to redouble my exertions and at least indeavour to promote those two primary objects of human existence, by giving them the aid of that portion of talents which nature and fortune have bestoed on me; or in future, to live for mankind, as I have heretofore lived for myself.
Sunday, August 18, 1805. This morning while Captain Clark was busy getting ready for his route, I set out some items to trade with the Indians for horses, as I needed a few right now to relieve the men going with Captain Clark from carrying their baggage and to have one here for packing the meat to take back to camp that the hunters might catch. I quickly got three very good horses for which I gave a uniform coat, a pair of leggings, a few handkerchiefs, three knives, and some other small items that altogether cost me about $20 in the U.S. The Indians seemed just as happy with the deal as I was. The men also bought one for an old checked shirt, a pair of old leggings, and a knife. Captain Clark took two of the ones I purchased with him. At 10 A.M., Captain Clark left with his detachment and all the Indians except for two men and two women who stayed with us. Two of the lesser chiefs were a bit upset about not receiving a gift that matched what was given to the chief. To ease this situation, Captain Clark gave them a couple of his old coats, and I promised that if they helped me out over the mountains with horses, I would give them an additional gift; this seemed to satisfy them, and they all set out in good spirits. Captain Clark camped this evening near the narrow pass between the hills on Jefferson's River in Shoshone Cove. His hunters killed a deer, which the group, with the help of the Indians, quickly devoured during the evening. After their departure this morning, I had all the supplies and baggage of every kind opened and aired out and started packing them into proper bundles for transportation on horseback. The evening rain forced me to stop my work. I soaked the raw hides in water so I could cut them into strips suitable for tying the bundles and making the necessary gear for pack horses, a task I fortunately did not need to learn this time. Drewyer killed a deer this evening, and one of the party caught a beaver. I set up the net this evening to catch some trout, which we could see in abundance at the river's bottom. Today I completed my thirty-first year and realized that, in all likelihood, I've existed about half the time I'm supposed to spend in this world. I reflected on how little I've done to benefit humanity or advance the knowledge of the next generation. I regret the many hours I've wasted in idleness and now feel the lack of knowledge that those hours could have provided if I'd spent them wisely. However, since those hours are gone and can't be reclaimed, I dismiss the gloomy thoughts and resolve to work harder in the future, at least trying to promote those two essential purposes of human existence by using whatever talents nature and fortune have given me; or moving forward, to live for mankind, as I have lived for myself until now.
[Clark, August 18, 1805]
August 18th Sunday 1805 Purchased of the Indians three horses for which we gave a Chiefs Coat Some Handkerchiefs a Shirt Legins & a fiew arrow points &c. I gave two of my coats to two of the under Chiefs who appeared not well Satisfied that the first Chief was dressed so much finer than themselves. at 10 oClock I Set out accompanied by the Indians except 3 the interpreter and wife, the fore part of the day worm, at 12 oClock it became hasey with a mist of rain wind hard from the S. W. and Cold which increased untill night the rain Seased in about two hours. We proceeded on thro a wide leavel vallie without wood except willows & Srubs for 15 miles and Encamped at a place the high lands approach within 200 yards in 2 points the River here only 10 yards wide Several Small Streams branching out on each Side below. all the Indians proceeded on except the 3 Chiefs & two young men. my hunters killed two Deer which we eate. The Course from the forks is West 9 miles N. 60° W. 6 miles. The Laid. of the forks agreeable to observations is 43° 30' 43" North-
August 18th, Sunday, 1805 I bought three horses from the Indians and paid with a chief's coat, some handkerchiefs, a shirt, leggings, and a few arrow points, etc. I gave two of my coats to two of the under chiefs who didn’t seem satisfied that the first chief was dressed so much better than them. At 10 o'clock, I set out with the Indians, except for three, the interpreter, and his wife. The early part of the day was warm, but by noon, it got hazy with a light rain, and the wind picked up from the southwest, making it cold, which continued to increase until night. The rain stopped after about two hours. We traveled through a wide, flat valley with no woods except for willows and shrubs for 15 miles and set up camp where the highlands came within 200 yards in two places. The river here was only 10 yards wide, with several small streams branching out on each side below. All the Indians continued on except for the three chiefs and two young men. My hunters killed two deer, which we ate. The course from the forks is west for 9 miles, then N. 60° W. for 6 miles. According to my observations, the latitude of the forks is 43° 30' 43" North.
[Lewis, August 19, 1805]
Monday August 19th 1805. This morning I arrose at dylight. and sent out three hunters. some of the men who were much in want of legings and mockersons I suffered to dress some skins. the others I employed in repacking the baggage, making pack saddles &c. we took up the net this morning but caugt no fish. one beaver was caught in a trap. the frost which perfectly whitened the grass this morning had a singular appearance to me at this season. this evening I made a few of the men construct a sein of willow brush which we hawled and caught a large number of fine trout and a kind of mullet about 16 Inhes long which I had not seen before. the scales are small, the nose is long and obtusely pointed and exceedes the under jaw. the mouth is not large but opens with foalds at the sides, the colour of it's back and sides is of a bluish brown and belley white; it has the faggot bones, from which I have supposed it to be of the mullet kind. the tongue and pallate are smooth and it has no teeth. it is by no means as good as the trout. the trout are the same which I first met with at the falls of the Missouri, they are larger than the speckled trout of our mountains and equally as well flavored.- The hunters returned this evening with two deer. from what has been said of the Shoshones it will be readily perceived that they live in a wretched stait of poverty. yet notwithstanding their extreem poverty they are not only cheerfull but even gay, fond of gaudy dress and amusements; like most other Indians they are great egotists and frequently boast of heroic acts which they never performed. they are also fond of games of wrisk. they are frank, communicative, fair in dealing, generous with the little they possess, extreemly honest, and by no means beggarly. each individual is his own sovereign master, and acts from the dictates of his own mind; the authority of the Cheif being nothing more than mere admonition supported by the influence which the propiety of his own examplery conduct may have acquired him in the minds of the individuals who compose the band. the title of cheif is not hereditary, nor can I learn that there is any cerimony of instalment, or other epoh in the life of a Cheif from which his title as such can be dated. in fact every man is a chief, but all have not an equal influence on the minds of the other members of the community, and he who happens to enjoy the greatest share of confidence is the principal Chief. The Shoshonees may be estimated at about 100 warriors, and about three times that number of woomen and children. they have more children among them than I expected to have seen among a people who procure subsistence with such difficulty. there are but few very old persons, nor did they appear to treat those with much tenderness or rispect. The man is the sole propryetor of his wives and daughters, and can barter or dispose of either as he thinks proper. a plurality of wives is common among them, but these are not generally sisters as with the Minnetares & Mandans but are purchased of different fathers. The father frequently disposes of his infant daughters in marriage to men who are grown or to men who have sons for whom they think proper to provide wives. the compensation given in such cases usually consists of horses or mules which the father receives at the time of contract and converts to his own uce. the girl remains with her parents untill she is conceived to have obtained the age of puberty which with them is considered to be about the age of 13 or 14 years. the female at this age is surrendered to her sovereign lord and husband agreeably to contract, and with her is frequently restored by the father quite as much as he received in the first instance in payment for his daughter; but this is discretionary with the father. Sah-car-gar-we-ah had been thus disposed of before she was taken by the Minnetares, or had arrived to the years of puberty. the husband was yet living and with this band. he was more than double her age and had two other wives. he claimed her as his wife but said that as she had had a child by another man, who was Charbono, that he did not want her. They seldom correct their children particularly the boys who soon become masters of their own acts. they give as a reason that it cows and breaks the Sperit of the boy to whip him, and that he never recovers his independence of mind after he is grown. They treat their women but with little rispect, and compel them to perform every species of drudgery. they collect the wild fruits and roots, attend to the horses or assist in that duty cook dreess the skins and make all their apparal, collect wood and make their fires, arrange and form their lodges, and when they travel pack the horses and take charge of all the baggage; in short the man dose little else except attend his horses hunt and fish. the man considers himself degraded if he is compelled to walk any distance, and if he is so unfortunately poor as only to possess two horses he rides the best himself and leavs the woman or women if he has more than one, to transport their baggage and children on the other, and to walk if the horse is unable to carry the additional weight of their persons—the chastity of their women is not held in high estimation, and the husband will for a trifle barter the companion of his bead for a night or longer if he conceives the reward adiquate; tho they are not so importunate that we should caress their women as the siouxs were and some of their women appear to be held more sacred than in any nation we have seen I have requested the men to give them no cause of jealousy by having connection with their women without their knowledge, which with them strange as it may seem is considered as disgracefull to the husband as clandestine connections of a similar kind are among civilized nations. to prevent this mutual exchange of good officies altogether I know it impossible to effect, particularly on the part of our young men whom some months abstinence have made very polite to those tawney damsels. no evil has yet resulted and I hope will not from these connections.—notwithstanding the late loss of horses which this people sustained by the Minnetares the stock of the band may be very safely estimated at seven hundred of which they are perhaps about 40 coalts and half that number of mules.these people are deminutive in stature, thick ankles, crooked legs, thick flat feet and in short but illy formed, at least much more so in general than any nation of Indians I ever saw. their complexion is much that of the Siouxs or darker than the Minnetares mandands or Shawnees. generally both men and women wear their hair in a loos lank flow over the sholders and face; tho I observed some few men who confined their hair in two equal cues hanging over each ear and drawnn in front of the body. the cue is formed with throngs of dressed lather or Otterskin aternately crossing each other. at present most of them have cut short in the neck in consequence of the loss of their relations by the Minnetares. Cameahwait has his cut close all over his head. this constitutes their cerimony of morning for their deceased relations. the dress of the men consists of a robe long legings, shirt, tippet and Mockersons, that of the women is also a robe, chemise, and Mockersons; sometimes they make use of short legings. the ornements of both men and women are very similar, and consist of several species of sea shells, blue and white beads, bras and Iron arm bands, plaited cords of the sweet grass, and collars of leather ornamented with the quills of the porcupine dyed of various colours among which I observed the red, yellow, blue, and black. the ear is purforated in the lower part to receive various ornaments but the nose is not, nor is the ear lasserated or disvigored for this purpose as among many nations. the men never mark their skins by birning, cuting, nor puncturing and introducing a colouring matter as many nations do. there women sometimes puncture a small circle on their forehead nose or cheeks and thus introduce a black matter usually soot and grease which leaves an indelible stane. tho this even is by no means common. their arms offensive and defensive consist in the bow and arrows sheild, some lances, and a weapon called by the Cippeways who formerly used it, the pog-gal'-mag-gon'. in fishing they employ wairs, gigs, and fishing hooks. the salmon is the principal object of their pursuit. they snair wolves and foxes. I was anxious to learn whether these people had the venerial, and made the enquiry through the intrepreter and his wife; the information was that they sometimes had it but I could not learn their remedy; they most usually die with it's effects. this seems a strong proof that these disorders bothe gonaroehah and Louis venerae are native disorders of America. tho these people have suffered much by the small pox which is known to be imported and perhaps those other disorders might have been contracted from other indian tribes who by a round of communication might have obtained from the Europeans since it was introduced into that quarter of the globe. but so much detatched on the other had from all communication with the whites that I think it most probable that those disorders are original with them. from the middle of May to the firt of September these people reside on the waters of the Columbia where they consider themselves in perfect security from their enimies as they have not as yet ever found their way to this retreat; during this season the salmon furnish the principal part of their subsistence and as this firsh either perishes or returns about the 1st of September they are compelled at this season in surch of subsistence to resort to the Missouri, in the vallies of which, there is more game even within the mountains. here they move slowly down the river in order to collect and join other bands either of their own nation or the Flatheads, and having become sufficiently strong as they conceive venture on the Eastern side of the Rockey mountains into the plains, where the buffaloe abound. but they never leave the interior of the mountains while they can obtain a scanty subsistence, and always return as soon as they have acquired a good stock of dryed meat in the plains; when this stock is consumed they venture again into the plains; thus alternately obtaining their food at the risk of their lives and retiring to the mountains, while they consume it.—These people are now on the eve of their departure for the Missouri, and inform us that they expect to be joined at or about the three forks by several bands of their own nation, and a band of the Flatheads. as I am now two busily engaged to enter at once into a minute discription of the several articles which compose their dress, impliments of war hunting fishing &c I shall pursue them at my leasure in the order they have here occurred to my mind, and have been mentioned. This morning capt. Clark continued his rout with his party, the Indians accompanying him as yesterday; he was obliged to feed them. nothing remarkable happened during the day. he was met by an Indian with two mules on this side of the dividing ridge at the foot of the mountain, the Indian had the politeness to offer Capt. C. one of his mules to ride as he was on foot, which he accepted and gave the fellow a waistcoat as a reward for his politeness. in the evening he reached the creek on this side of the Indian camp and halted for the night. his hunters killed nothing today. The Indians value their mules very highly. a good mule can not be obtained for less than three and sometimes four horses, and the most indifferent are rated at two horses. their mules generally are the finest I ever saw without any comparison.—today I observed time and distance of sun's and moon's nearest limbs with sextant sun East.
Monday, August 19th, 1805. This morning I got up at dawn and sent out three hunters. Some of the men, who really needed leggings and moccasins, I allowed to prepare some animal skins. The others I had repack the baggage and make pack saddles, etc. We took up the net this morning but didn’t catch any fish; however, one beaver was caught in a trap. The frost that had completely whitened the grass this morning looked unusual to me for this time of year. This evening, I had a few of the men make a seine out of willow brush, which we hauled and caught a large number of fine trout and a kind of mullet about 16 inches long that I hadn’t seen before. The scales are small, the nose is long and bluntly pointed, and it extends beyond the lower jaw. The mouth isn't large but opens with folds at the sides; its back and sides are a bluish-brown color, with a white belly. It has the characteristics of a mullet, which leads me to believe that's what it is. The tongue and palate are smooth, and it has no teeth. It's definitely not as good as the trout. The trout are the same as those I first encountered at the falls of the Missouri; they’re larger than the speckled trout of our mountains and equally well-flavored. The hunters returned this evening with two deer. Based on what has been said about the Shoshones, it’s clear they live in a terrible state of poverty. Yet, despite their extreme poverty, they are not only cheerful but even playful, enjoying bright clothing and entertainment. Like most other Native Americans, they are great storytellers and often boast of heroic deeds they never accomplished. They also enjoy games of chance. They are straightforward, open, fair in dealings, generous with what little they have, extremely honest, and by no means beggars. Each individual is his own master, acting according to his own judgment; the authority of the Chief is simply advisory, relying on the respect he earns through his exemplary behavior among the band. The title of Chief isn't hereditary, and I couldn't find out whether there’s any ceremony of installation or any pivotal moment in a Chief’s life from which his title originates. In fact, every man is essentially a chief, but not all have equal influence over the other members of the community, and the one with the most trust is the principal Chief. The Shoshones can be estimated to have about 100 warriors, and roughly three times that number of women and children. They have more children than I expected for a people who struggle to find food. There are very few elderly individuals, nor do they seem to treat the old with much care or respect. A man completely owns his wives and daughters and can trade or sell them as he sees fit. Having multiple wives is common among them, but they are usually not sisters as with the Minnetarees and Mandans; these wives are bought from different families. A father often arranges marriages for his infant daughters to grown men or men with sons for whom they want wives. The compensation typically given in such cases consists of horses or mules, which the father receives at the time of the agreement and keeps for himself. The girl stays with her parents until she is considered old enough to marry, which they think is around 13 or 14 years old. At this age, she is surrendered to her husband per the contract, and the father often returns the same amount he received at the time of the deal; however, this is at the father's discretion. Sah-car-gar-we-ah had been married off before she was taken by the Minnetarees or reached puberty. Her husband was still alive and with this group. He was more than twice her age and had two other wives. He claimed her as his wife but stated that since she'd had a child with another man, who was Charbono, he didn't want her. They seldom discipline their children, especially the boys, who quickly become masters of their own actions. They reason that whipping a boy crushes his spirit, making it impossible for him to recover his independence of mind once he is grown. They treat their women with little respect, requiring them to do all the hard work. Women gather wild fruits and roots, care for the horses, cook, prepare the skins, make all their clothing, collect firewood, and build the fires; when they travel, they pack the horses and handle all the luggage. In short, the men do little else besides take care of their horses, hunt, and fish. A man sees himself as degraded if he has to walk any considerable distance; if he's so unfortunate as to own only two horses, he rides the best one himself, leaving his wife or wives, if he has more than one, to carry their luggage and children on the other horse and to walk if that horse can't bear the extra weight. The chastity of their women doesn't hold much value, and husbands will trade their wives for a night or longer if they think the offer is good enough; though they aren't as aggressive about it as the Sioux were. Some of their women seem to be held in higher regard than in any other tribe we've seen. I’ve asked the men not to give any cause for jealousy by becoming intimate with their women without their knowledge, which, strangely enough, is considered just as shameful for the husband as secret affairs in civilized societies. I know it’s impossible to completely prevent these mutual exchanges of favors, especially from our young men, who have grown very polite toward those tanned maidens after a few months of abstinence. So far, no problems have arisen, and I hope none will result from these connections. Despite the recent loss of horses that these people suffered at the hands of the Minnetarees, the band’s stock can be estimated to be around seven hundred, including approximately 40 foals and about the same number of mules. These people are small in stature, with thick ankles, crooked legs, and flat, poorly formed feet—more so in general than any other Native American tribe I've encountered. Their complexion is similar to that of the Sioux or darker than the Minnetarees, Mandans, or Shawnees. Generally, both men and women wear their hair loosely flowing over their shoulders and faces. I did notice a few men who tied their hair back into two equal pigtails hanging over each ear, with the hair drawn in front of their bodies. The pigtails are made with strands of dressed leather or otter skin, crossing each other. Currently, many of them have cut their hair short at the neck due to losing relations to the Minnetarees. Cameahwait has his hair cut very close all over his head. This is their mourning ceremony for deceased family members. Men’s clothing consists of a robe, long leggings, a shirt, a tippet, and moccasins. Women wear similar clothing, including a robe, chemise, and moccasins; occasionally, they also wear short leggings. The ornaments for both men and women are quite similar, made of various types of seashells, blue and white beads, brass and iron bracelets, woven cords of sweet grass, and leather collars decorated with dyed porcupine quills in colors like red, yellow, blue, and black. Their ears are pierced at the lower parts for various ornaments, but not their noses, nor are their ears cut or altered for decorating like in many other cultures. Men never mark their skin with burning, cutting, or puncturing to introduce ink like many nations do. Women might occasionally puncture small circles on their foreheads, noses, or cheeks and fill them with a black substance, usually soot and grease, which leaves a permanent stain; however, this practice is not common. Their weapons for offense and defense include bows, arrows, shields, some lances, and a weapon referred to by the Chippewas, who once used it, as the pog-gal'-mag-gon. For fishing, they use weirs, gigs, and hooks. Salmon is their primary target. They trap wolves and foxes. I was eager to find out if these people had venereal diseases and asked through the interpreter and his wife; they said they sometimes do, but I couldn't discover what their remedy is. Most often, people die from its effects. This seems to strongly suggest that both gonorrhea and syphilis are native to America. Although these people have suffered greatly from smallpox, which is known to be an introduced disease, it’s possible that those other diseases were contracted from other Indian tribes that may have gotten them from Europeans since their introduction to the area. However, due to their isolation from any contact with white people, I believe it’s likely these diseases are original to them. From mid-May until early September, these people live along the Columbia River, where they feel perfectly safe from their enemies, as they have never encountered them in this haven. During this time, salmon are their main source of food, and as this fish either dies or migrates around the start of September, they are forced to search for food by going to the Missouri, where there is more game even within the mountains. They then slowly drift down the river to gather and join other bands from their own nation or the Flatheads. Once they feel they are strong enough, they venture to the eastern side of the Rocky Mountains into the plains, where buffalo are plentiful. However, they never leave the interior mountains while they can still get a meager meal, always returning as soon as they have secured a sufficient stock of dried meat in the plains. When that stock runs out, they return to the plains again, alternately risking their lives to find food while withdrawing to the mountains to consume it. These people are now preparing to leave for the Missouri and inform us that they expect to meet several bands from their own nation and a band of the Flatheads around the three forks. Since I’m currently too busy to provide a detailed description of the various items that make up their clothing, tools for war, hunting, fishing, etc., I will follow up on those details at my leisure in the order they come to mind. This morning, Captain Clark continued his route with his party, and the Indians accompanied him just like yesterday; he had to feed them. Nothing remarkable happened throughout the day. He met an Indian with two mules on this side of the dividing ridge at the mountain's foot, and the Indian kindly offered Captain Clark one of his mules to ride since he was on foot. He accepted this offer and rewarded the Indian with a waistcoat for his kindness. In the evening, he arrived at the creek on this side of the Indian camp and stopped for the night. His hunters didn’t bring back anything today. The Indians place a high value on their mules; a good mule can't be had for less than three, sometimes four horses, while even the most average mules are worth two horses. Generally, their mules are the best I’ve ever seen by far. Today, I measured the time and distance of the sun's and moon's closest limbs using a sextant, with the sun in the east.
[Clark, August 19, 1805]
August 19th Monday 1805 A verry Cold morning Frost to be Seen we Set out at 7 oClock and proceeded on thro a wide leavel Vallie the Chief Shew me the place that a number of his nation was killed about 1 years past this Vallie Continues 5 miles & then becoms narrow, the beaver has Darned up the River in maney places we proceeded on up the main branch with a gradial assent to the head and passed over a low mountain and Decended a Steep Decent to a butifull Stream, passed over a Second hill of a verry Steep assent & thro a hilley Countrey for 8 miles an Encamped on a Small Stream the Indians with us we wer oblige to feed—one man met one with a mule & Spanish Saddle to ride, I gave him a wistoat a mule is considered a of great value among those people we proceeded on over a verry mountanious Countrey across the head of hollows & Springs
August 19th, Monday, 1805. A very cold morning, frost visible. We set out at 7 o'clock and continued through a wide, flat valley. The chief showed me the spot where several of his people were killed about a year ago. This valley continues for 5 miles and then narrows. The beavers have dammed the river in many places. We continued up the main branch with a gradual ascent to the head and crossed over a low mountain, then descended steeply to a beautiful stream. We crossed a second hill with a very steep ascent and navigated through hilly country for 8 miles, then camped by a small stream. The Indians with us needed to be fed. One man met another with a mule and a Spanish saddle to ride; I gave him a vest because a mule is considered very valuable among these people. We continued over very mountainous terrain, crossing hills and springs.
[Lewis, August 20, 1805]
Tuesday August 20th 1805. This morning I sent out the two hunters and employed the ballance of the party pretty much as yesterday. I walked down the river about—3/4 of a mile and scelected a place near the river bank unperceived by the Indians for a cash, which I set three men to make, and directed the centinel to discharge his gun if he pereceived any of the Indians going down in that direction which was to be the signal for the men at work on the cash to desist and seperate, least these people should discover our deposit and rob us of the baggage we intend leaving here. by evening the cash was completed unperceived by the Indians, and all our packages made up. the Pack-saddles and harries is not yet complete. in this operation we find ourselves at a loss for nails and boards; for the first we substitute throngs of raw hide which answer verry well, and for the last to cut off the blades of our oars and use the plank of some boxes which have heretofore held other articles and put those articles into sacks of raw hide which I have had made for the purpose. by this means I have obtained as many boards as will make 20 saddles which I suppose will be sufficient for our present exegencies. The Indians with us behave themselves extreemly well; the women have been busily engaged all day making and mending the mockersons of our party. In the evening the hunters returned unsuccessfull. Drewyer went in search of his trap which a beaver had taken off last night; he found the beaver dead with the trap to his foot about 2 miles below the place he had set it. this beaver constituted the whole of the game taken today. the fur of this animal is as good as I ever saw any, and beleive that they are never out of season on the upper part of the Missouri and it's branches within the Mountains. Goodrich caught several douzen fine trout. today. I made up a small assortment of medicines, together with the specemines of plants, minerals, seeds &c. which, I have collected betwen this place and the falls of the Missouri which I shall deposit here. the robe woarn by the Shoshonees is the same in both sexes and is loosly thrown about their sholders, and the sides at pleasure either hanging loose or drawn together with the hands, sometimes if the weather is cold they confine it with a girdel arround the waist; they are generally about the size of a 21/2 point blanket for grown persons and reach as low as the middle of the leg. this robe forms a garment in the day and constitutes their only covering at night. with these people the robe is formed most commonly of the skins of Antelope, Bighorn, or deer, dressed with the hair on, tho they prefer the buffaloe when they can procure them. I have also observed some robes among them of beaver, moonax, and small wolves. the summer robes of both sexes are also frequently made of the Elk's skin dressed without the hair. The shirt of the men is really a commodious and decent garment. it roomy and reaches nearly half way the thye, there is no collar, the apperture being sufficiently large to admit the head and is left square at top, or most frequently, both before and behind terminate in the tails of the animals of which they are made and which foald outwards being frequently left entire or somtimes cut into a fring on the edges and ornimented with the quills of the Porcupine. the sides of the shirt are sewed deeply fringed, and ornamented in a similar manner from the bottom upwards, within six or eight inches of the sieve from whence it is left open as well as the sieve on it's under side to the elbow nearly. from the elbow the sieve fits the arm tight as low as the wrist and is not ornimented with a fringe as the sides and under parts of the sieve are above the elbow. the sholder straps are wide and on them is generally displayed the taste of the manufacterer in a variety of figures wrought with the quills of the porcupine of several colours; beads when they have them are also displayed on this part. the tail of the shirt is left in the form which the fore legs and neck give it with the addition of a slight fringe. the hair is usually left on the tail, & near the hoofs of the animal; part of the hoof is also retained to the skin and is split into a fring by way of orniment. these shirts are generally made of deer's Antelope's, Bighorn's, or Elk's skins dressed without the hair. the Elk skin is less used for this purpose than either of the others. their only thread used on this or any other occasion is the sinews taken from the back and loins of the deer Elk buffaloe &c. Their legings are most usually formed of the skins of the Antelope dressed without the hair. in the men they are very long and full each leging being formed of a skin nearly entire. the legs, tail and neck are also left on these, and the tail woarn upwards; and the neck deeply fringed and ornimented with porcupine qulls drags or trails on the ground behind the heel. the skin is sewn in such manner as to fit the leg and thye closely; the upper part being left open a sufficient distance to permit the legs of the skin to be dran underneath a girdle both before and behind, and the wide part of the skin to cover the buttock and lap before in such manner that the breechcloth is unnecessary. they are much more decent in concealing those parts than any nation on the Missouri the sides of the legings are also deeply fringed and ornimented. sometimes this part is ornimented with little fassicles of the hair of an enimy whom they have slain in battle. The tippet of the Snake Indians is the most eligant peice of Indian dress I ever saw, the neck or collar of this is formed of a strip of dressed Otter skin with the fur. it is about four or five inches wide and is cut out of the back of the skin the nose and eyes forming one extremity and the tail the other. begining a little behind the ear of the animal at one edge of this collar and proceeding towards the tail, they attatch from one to two hundred and fifty little roles of Ermin skin formed in the following manner. the skin is first dressed with the fur on it and a narrow strip is cut out of the back of the skin reaching from the nose and imbracing the tail. this is sewed arround a small cord of the silk-grass twisted for the purpose and regularly tapering in such manner as to give it ajust proportion to the tail which is to form the lower extremity of the stran. thus arranged they are confined at the upper point in little bundles of two-three, or more as the disign may be to make them more full; these are then attatched to the collars as before mentioned, and to conceal the connection of this part which would otherwise have a course appearance they attatch a broad fringe of the Ermin skin to the collar overlaying that part. little bundles of fine fringe of the same materials is fastened to the extremity of the tails in order to shew their black extremities to greater advantage. the center of the otterskin collar is also ornamented with the shells of the perl oister. the collar is confined arond the neck and the little roles of Ermin skin about the size of a large quill covers the solders and body nearly to the waist and has the appearance of a short cloak and is really handsome. these they esteem very highly, and give or dispose of only on important occasions. the ermin whic is known to the traiders of the N. W. by the name of the white weasel is the genuine ermine, and might no doubt be turned to great advantage by those people if they would encourage the Indians to take them. they are no doubt extreemly plenty and readily taken, from the number of these tippets which I have seen among these people and the great number of skins employed in the construction of each timppet. scarcely any of them have employed less than one hundred of these skins in their formation.—This morning Capt. Clark set out at 6 in the morning and soon after arrived near their camp they having removed about 2 miles higher up the river than the camp at which they were when I first visited them. the chief requested a halt, which was complyed with, and a number of the indians came out from the village and joined them after smoking a few pipes with them they all proceeded to the village where Capt C. was conducted to a large lodge prepared in the center of the encampment for himself and party. here they gave him one salmon and some cakes of dryed berries. he now repeated to them what had been said to them in council at this place which was repeated to the village by the Cheif. when he had concluded this address he requested a guide to accompany him down the river and an elderly man was pointed out by the Cheif who consented to undertake this task. this was the old man of whom Cameahwait had spoken as a person well acquainted with the country to the North of this river. Capt. C. encouraged the Indians to come over with their horses and assist me over with the baggage. he distrubuted some presents among the Indians. about half the men of the village turned out to hunt the antelope but were unsuccessfull. at 3 P.M. Capt. Clark departed, accompanyed by his guide and party except one man whom he left with orders to purchase a horse if possible and overtake him as soon as he could. he left Charbono and the indian woman to return to my camp with the Indians. he passed the river about four miles below the Indians, and encamped on a small branch, eight miles distant. on his way he met a rispectable looking indian who returned and continued with him all night; this indian gave them three salmon. Capt. C. killed a cock of the plains or mountain cock. it was of a dark brown colour with a long and pointed tail larger than the dunghill fowl and had a fleshey protuberant substance about the base of the upper chap, something like that of the turkey tho without the snout.
Tuesday, August 20th, 1805. This morning, I sent out the two hunters and organized the rest of the team pretty much the same as yesterday. I walked down the river about three-quarters of a mile and picked a spot near the riverbank where the Indians wouldn’t notice us to hide our supplies. I had three men work on this while I instructed the sentinel to fire his gun if he saw any Indians coming that way; this would signal the men working on the supplies to stop and scatter, to prevent the Indians from discovering our stash and stealing the gear we plan to leave here. By evening, the stash was completed without the Indians noticing, and all our packages were prepared. The pack saddles and harnesses are still not finished. In this task, we faced a shortage of nails and boards; for nails, we used strips of rawhide as a substitute, which worked quite well, and for boards, we cut the blades off our oars and used planks from boxes that previously held other goods, putting those items into rawhide sacks I had made for this purpose. This way, I managed to get enough boards to make 20 saddles, which I believe will be enough for our current needs. The Indians with us are behaving very well; the women have been busy all day making and repairing our party’s moccasins. In the evening, the hunters returned unsuccessful. Drewyer went to retrieve his trap, which a beaver had taken last night; he found the beaver dead with the trap still on its foot, about two miles downstream from where he set it. This beaver made up all the game we collected today. The fur from this animal is the finest I've ever seen, and I believe they are always in season in the upper Missouri and its branches in the mountains. Goodrich caught several dozen nice trout today. I put together a small assortment of medicines, along with samples of plants, minerals, seeds, etc., which I collected between this location and the falls of the Missouri, which I will leave here. The robe worn by the Shoshone is the same for both men and women and is loosely draped over their shoulders, with the sides either hanging free or pulled together by their hands; if it's cold, they sometimes secure it with a belt around the waist. It’s generally about the size of a 2.5-point blanket for adults and reaches down to the middle of the leg. This robe acts as a garment during the day and serves as their only covering at night. With these people, the robe is typically made from the skins of antelope, bighorn sheep, or deer, tanned with the hair on, though they prefer buffalo when available. I've also noticed some robes made from beaver, fox, and small wolves. The summer robes for both men and women are often made from tanned elk skin without the hair. The shirt worn by the men is quite a practical and decent garment. It's roomy and extends nearly halfway down the thigh, without a collar, the opening being large enough for the head, left square at the top, and most often, both the front and back end in the tails of the animals from which they're made, which fold outwards; sometimes these are left whole or cut into fringes at the edges and decorated with porcupine quills. The sides of the shirt are sewn with deep fringes, and similarly adorned from the bottom up, leaving six or eight inches open from the hem and under the arm nearly down to the elbow. From the elbow, the sleeve fits snug around the arm down to the wrist and is not decorated with a fringe like the sides and underparts of the sleeve above the elbow. The shoulder straps are wide and display the manufacturer's taste in various designs made with colorful porcupine quills; beads, if they have them, are also shown on this part. The tail of the shirt is left in the shape given by the forelegs and neck—with a slight fringe added. Hair is usually left on the tail and around the hooves of the animal; part of the hoof is also attached to the skin, split into a fringe for decoration. These shirts are generally made from deer, antelope, bighorn, or elk skins tanned without the hair, with elk skin being used less often than the others. The only thread used for this or any other purpose is sinew taken from the back and loins of deer, elk, buffalo, etc. Their leggings are usually made from the skins of antelope, tanned without the hair. For men, they are very long and full, with each legging made from nearly an entire skin. The legs, tail, and neck are also left on these, with the tail worn upwards and the neck heavily fringed and decorated with porcupine quills dragging or trailing on the ground behind the heel. The skin is sewn in a way that fits tight around the leg and thigh; the top is left open enough to allow the skin of the leg to be drawn underneath a belt in both the front and back, allowing the wider part of the skin to cover the buttocks and lap, making a breechcloth unnecessary. They are much more modest in covering those parts than any other nation on the Missouri, and the sides of the leggings are similarly fringed and decorated. Sometimes this part is adorned with small bundles of hair from an enemy they’ve killed in battle. The tippet of the Snake Indians is the most elegant piece of Indian dress I have ever seen. The neck or collar is made from a strip of tanned otter skin with the fur intact. It is about four or five inches wide and cut from the back of the skin, with the nose and eyes making one end and the tail the other. Beginning just behind the animal’s ear at one edge of the collar and going towards the tail, they attach anywhere from one to two hundred and fifty small rolls of ermine skin made in the following way. The skin is first tanned with the fur still attached, and a narrow strip is cut out from the back of the skin, reaching from the nose to encompass the tail. This is sewn around a small cord of silk grass twisted for this purpose and tapering in a way that matches the tail, which forms the lower end of the strand. Arranged like this, they are bundled at the top in small groupings of two, three, or more as desired to make them fluffier; these are then attached to the collar, as previously mentioned, and to conceal the connection, which would otherwise appear coarse, they add a broad fringe of ermine skin to the collar overlaying that part. Small bundles of fine fringe made from the same material are fastened to the tips of the tails to highlight their black ends. The center of the otter skin collar is also decorated with pearl oyster shells. The collar fits snugly around the neck, and the little rolls of ermine skin, about the size of a large quill, cover the shoulders and body nearly to the waist, resembling a short cloak and looking quite handsome. They hold these in high esteem and only give or trade them on important occasions. The ermine, known to traders in the Northwest as the white weasel, is the genuine ermine and could certainly be valuable to these people if they encouraged the Indians to hunt them. They are likely extremely abundant and easily captured, judging by the number of these tippets I've seen among them and the great number of skins used in each one. Hardly any of them use less than a hundred skins in creating their tippets. This morning, Captain Clark set out at 6 AM and soon reached their camp, which had been moved about two miles upstream from where they were when I first visited them. The chief asked for a stop, which was honored, and several Indians came out from the village to join them. After smoking a few pipes with them, they all went to the village, where Captain C. was taken to a large lodge prepared for him and his party at the center of the encampment. Here, they gave him one salmon and some cakes of dried berries. He then reiterated to them what had been agreed upon in council at this location, which the chief echoed back to the village. When he finished addressing them, he asked for a guide to accompany him down the river, and an elderly man was chosen by the chief who agreed to take on this task. This was the old man of whom Cameahwait spoke as being well familiar with the area north of the river. Captain C. encouraged the Indians to come with their horses and help him transport the baggage. He distributed some gifts among the Indians. About half the men from the village went out to hunt antelope but were unsuccessful. At 3 PM, Captain Clark left, accompanied by his guide and party, except for one man he left behind with instructions to buy a horse if possible and catch up with him as soon as he could. He left Charbono and the Indian woman to return to my camp with the Indians. He crossed the river about four miles below the Indians and set up camp on a small creek, eight miles away. On his way, he encountered a respectable-looking Indian who turned back and stayed with him all night; this Indian gave him three salmon. Captain C. shot a prairie chicken or mountain chicken. It was dark brown with a long, pointed tail, larger than a domestic chicken, and had a fleshy growth at the base of the upper beak, resembling a turkey's but without the snood.
[Clark, August 20, 1805]
August 20th Tuesday 1805 Set out at half past 6 oClock and proceeded on (met maney parties of Indians) thro a hilley Countrey to the Camp of the Indians on a branch of the Columbia River, before we entered this Camp a Serimonious hault was requested by the Chief and I Smoked with all that Came around for Several pipes, we then proceeded on to the Camp & I was introduced into the only Lodge they had which was pitched in the Center for my party all the other Lodges made of bushes, after a fiew Indian Seremonies I informed the Indians the object of our journey our good intentions towards them my consern for their distressed Situation, what we had done for them in makeing a piece with the Minitarras Mandans Rickara &c. for them-. and requested them all to take over their horses & assist Capt Leiwis across &c. also informing them the oject of my journey down the river and requested a guide to accompany me, all of which was repeited by the Chief to the whole village.
August 20th, Tuesday, 1805 We set out at 6:30 AM and traveled through a hilly area, encountering many groups of Indians, until we reached the Indian camp by a branch of the Columbia River. Before entering the camp, the Chief requested a formal halt, and I smoked with everyone who gathered around for several pipes. Then we continued to the camp, where I was introduced to the only lodge they had, located in the center, while the other lodges were made of bushes. After a few Indian ceremonies, I explained the purpose of our journey, our good intentions toward them, my concern for their difficult situation, and what we had done to create peace with the Minitarras, Mandans, Ricara, and others. I asked them to take their horses and help Captain Lewis across and informed them of my objective to travel down the river, requesting a guide to accompany me. The Chief then repeated all of this to the entire village.
Those pore people Could only raise a Sammon & a little dried Choke Cherris for us half the men of the tribe with the Chief turned out to hunt the antilopes, at 3 oClock after giveing a fiew Small articles as presents I set out accompanied by an old man as a Guide (I endevered to procure as much information from thos people as possible without much Suckcess they being but little acquainted or effecting to be So-) I lef one man to purchase a horse and overtake me and proceeded on thro a wide rich bottom on a beaten Roade 8 miles Crossed the river and encamped on a Small run, this evening passed a number of old lodges, and met a number of men women children & horses, met a man who appeared of Some Consideration who turned back with us, he halted a woman & gave us 3 Small Sammon, this man continued with me all night and partook of what I had which was a little Pork verry Salt. Those Indians are verry attentive to Strangers &c. I left our interpreter & his woman to accompany the Indians to Capt Lewis tomorrow the Day they informed me they would Set out I killed a Pheasent at the Indian Camp larger than a dungal fowl with feshey protuberances about the head like a turkey. Frost last night
Those poor people could only provide a salmon and a few dried choke cherries for us. Half the men from the tribe, along with the chief, went out to hunt antelopes. At 3 o'clock, after giving a few small gifts as tokens, I set out with an old man as my guide. I tried to gather as much information from these people as I could, though I wasn't very successful since they either didn't know much or pretended not to. I left one man behind to buy a horse and catch up with me. I continued through a wide, fertile bottom on a well-trodden path for 8 miles. I crossed the river and set up camp by a small creek. That evening, I passed by several old lodges and encountered many men, women, children, and horses. I met a man who seemed to have some status who turned back to join us. He stopped a woman and gave us three small salmons. This man stayed with me all night and shared my food, which was just a little salty pork. Those Indians are very hospitable to strangers. I left our interpreter and his woman to accompany the Indians to Captain Lewis tomorrow, the day they said they would set out. I shot a pheasant at the Indian camp that was larger than a domestic fowl, with fleshy bumps on its head like a turkey. It frosted last night.
[Lewis, August 21, 1805]
Wednesday August 21st 1805. This morning was very cold. the ice 1/4 of an inch thick on the water which stood in the vessels exposed to the air. some wet deerskins that had been spread the grass last evening are stiffly frozen. the ink feizes in my pen. the bottoms are perfectly covered with frost insomuch that they appear to be covered with snow. This morning early I dispatched two hunters to kill some meat if possible before the Indians arrive; Drewyer I sent with the horse into the cove for that purpose. The party pursued their several occupations as yesterday. by evening I had all the baggage, saddles, and harness completely ready for a march. after dark, I made the men take the baggage to the cash and deposit it. I beleve we have been unperceived by the Indians in this movement. notwithstanding the coldness of the last night the day has proved excessively warm. neither of the hunters returned this evening and I was obliged to issue pork and corn. The mockersons of both sexes are usually the same and are made of deer Elk or buffaloe skin dressed without the hair. sometimes in the winter they make them of buffaloe skin dressed with the hair on and turn the hair inwards as the Mandans Minetares and most of the nations do who inhabit the buffaloe country. the mockerson is formed with one seem on the outer edge of the foot is cut open at the instep to admit the foot and sewed up behind. in this rispect they are the same with the Mandans. they sometimes ornament their mockersons with various figures wrought with the quills of the Porcupine. some of the dressey young men orniment the tops of their mockersons with the skins of polecats and trale the tail of that animal on the ground at their heels as they walk.the robe of the woman is generally smaller than that of the man but is woarn in the same manner over the sholders. the Chemise is roomy and comes down below the middle of the leg the upper part of this garment is formed much like the shirt of the men except the sholder strap which is never used with the Chemise. in women who give suck, they are left open at the sides nearly as low as the waist, in others, close as high as the sleeve. the sleeve underneath as low as the elbow is open, that part being left very full. the sides tail and upper part of the sleeves are deeply fringed and sometimes ornimented in a similar manner with the shirts of the men with the addition of little patches of red cloth about the tail edged around with beads. the breast is usually ornament with various figures of party colours rought with the quills of the Porcupine. it is on this part of the garment that they appear to exert their greatest ingenuity. a girdle of dressed leather confines the Chemise around the waist. when either the man or woman wish to disengage their arm from the sleeve they draw it out by means of the opening underneath the arm an throw the sleeve behind the body. the legings of the women reach as high as the knee and are confined with a garter below. the mockerson covers and confins it's lower extremity. they are neither fringed nor ornamented. these legings are made of the skins of the antelope and the Chemise usually of those of the large deer Bighorn and the smallest elk.—They seldom wear the beads they possess about their necks at least I have never seen a grown person of either sex wear them on this part; some their children are seen with them in this way. the men and women were them suspen from the ear in little bunches or intermixed with triangular peices of the shells of the perl oister. the men also were them attached in a similar manner to the hare of the fore part of the crown of the head; to which they sometimes make the addition of the wings and tails of birds. the nose in neither sex is pierced nor do they wear any ornament in it. they have a variety of small sea shells of which they form collars woarn indiscriminately by both sexes. these as well as the shell of the perl oister they value very highly and inform us that they obtain them from their friends and relations who live beyond the barren plain towards the Ocean in a S. Westerly direction. these friends of theirs they say inhabit a good country abounding with Elk, deer, bear, and Antelope, and possess a much greater number of horses and mules than they do themselves; or using their own figure that their horses and mules are as numerous as the grass of the plains. the warriors or such as esteem themselves brave men wear collars made of the claws of the brown bear which are also esteemed of great value and are preserved with great care. these claws are ornamented with beads about the thick end near which they are peirced through their sides and strung on a throng of dressed leather and tyed about the neck commonly with the upper edge of the tallon next the breast or neck but sometimes are reversed. it is esteemed by them an act of equal celebrity the killing one of these bear or an enimy, and with the means they have of killing this animal it must really be a serious undertaking. the sweet sented grass which grows very abundant on this river is either twisted or plaited and woarn around the neck in ether sex, but most commonly by the men. they have a collar also woarn by either sex. it generally round and about the size of a man's finger; formed of leather or silk-grass twisted or firmly rolled and covered with the quills of the porcupine of different colours. the tusks of the Elk are pierced strung on a throng and woarn as an orniment for the neck, and is most generally woarn by the women and children. the men frequently wear the skin of a fox or a broad strip of that of the otter around the forehead and head in form of a bando. they are also fond of the feathers of the tail of the beautifull eagle or callumet birds with which they ornament their own hair and the tails and mains of their horses. The dress of these people is quite as desent and convenient as that of any nation of Indians I ever saw.
Wednesday, August 21, 1805. It was very cold this morning. The ice was a quarter of an inch thick on the water in the vessels left outside. Some wet deerskins that were laid on the grass last night are frozen solid. The ink in my pen has seized up. The bottoms are completely covered with frost, making them look like they're covered in snow. Early this morning, I sent two hunters out to try to get some meat before the Indians arrive; I sent Drewyer with the horse into the cove for that purpose. The team continued their tasks from yesterday. By evening, I had everything—baggage, saddles, and harness—ready to march. After dark, I had the men take the baggage to the cache and stash it away. I believe we went unnoticed by the Indians during this move. Despite the cold last night, today turned out to be extremely warm. Neither of the hunters returned this evening, so I had to issue pork and corn. The moccasins for both men and women are generally the same and are made from deer, elk, or buffalo skin, tanned without the hair. Sometimes in winter, they use buffalo skin with the hair still on but turn the hair inside, as the Mandans, Minetares, and most tribes in the buffalo region do. The moccasin has one seam along the outer edge of the foot, is cut open at the instep for the foot to enter, and is sewn shut at the back. In this way, they are similar to those of the Mandans. They sometimes decorate their moccasins with various designs created using porcupine quills. Some stylish young men adorn the tops of their moccasins with the skins of polecats and drag the tails of those animals on the ground behind them as they walk. The robe worn by women is generally smaller than that of men but is worn the same way over the shoulders. The chemise is loose-fitting and falls below mid-calf; the top part resembles a man's shirt, except there is no shoulder strap on the chemise. For nursing mothers, the sides are left open nearly to the waist, while for others, they are closed up to the sleeves. The sleeves are open underneath down to the elbows, leaving that part very full. The sides, tail, and upper part of the sleeves are deeply fringed and sometimes decorated similarly to men's shirts, with added little patches of red cloth around the tail edged with beads. The front is usually adorned with colorful patterns made from porcupine quills. This is where they seem to invest the most creativity. A belt made of tanned leather secures the chemise around the waist. When either a man or a woman wants to remove their arm from the sleeve, they pull it out through the opening under the arm and throw the sleeve behind their back. Women's leggings reach up to the knee and are secured with a garter below. The moccasin covers and supports the lower part. They are neither fringed nor decorated. These leggings are made from antelope skin, while the chemise is usually crafted from the skin of large deer, bighorn sheep, and the smallest elk. They seldom wear the beads they have around their necks; at least I have never seen an adult of either sex wear them like that; occasionally, children can be seen wearing them this way. Men and women wear them suspended from the ear in small bunches or combined with triangular pieces from the shell of the pearl oyster. Men also wear them similarly attached to their hair at the front of the head, sometimes adding the wings and tails of birds. Neither men nor women pierce their noses or wear ornaments in them. They have various small seashells that they string together to form necklaces worn by both sexes. They place high value on these, as well as on the oyster shells, and tell us they get them from relatives and friends who live beyond the barren plains toward the ocean in a southwesterly direction. They say these friends live in a rich area plentiful with elk, deer, bears, and antelope, and possess many more horses and mules than they do; using their own words, they say their horses and mules are as numerous as the grass on the plains. The warriors or those who consider themselves brave wear necklaces made of brown bear claws, which are also seen as very valuable and are kept with great care. These claws are adorned with beads near the thick end, where they're pierced through and strung on a thong of tanned leather, typically tied around the neck with the sharp end facing the chest or neck, though sometimes they wear them reversed. They consider it equally noteworthy to kill one of these bears or an enemy, and given the means they have to hunt this animal, it truly must be a serious undertaking. The fragrant grass that grows abundantly along this river is either twisted or braided and worn around the neck by both sexes, though mostly by men. They also wear a collar around the neck, which is generally round and about the size of a man's finger, made of leather or twisted silk-grass, tightly rolled and covered with porcupine quills of various colors. The tusks of elk are pierced, strung on a thong, and worn as neck ornaments, typically by women and children. Men often wear the skin of a fox or a broad strip of otter skin around their foreheads in the form of a band. They also like to use feathers from the tail of beautiful eagles or calumet birds to decorate their hair and that of their horses. The clothing of these people is just as decent and practical as that of any Native American nation I've ever seen.
This morning early Capt. C. resumed his march; at the distance of five miles he arrived at some brush lodges of the Shoshones inhabited by about seven families here he halted and was very friendly received by these people, who gave himself and party as much boiled salmon as they could eat; they also gave him several dryed salmon and a considerable quantity of dryed chokecherries. after smoking with them he visited their fish wear which was abut 200 yds. distant. he found the wear extended across four channels of the river which was here divided by three small islands. three of these channels were narrow, and were stoped by means of trees fallen across, supported by which stakes of willow were driven down sufficiently near each other to prevent the salmon from passing. about the center of each a cilindric basket of eighteen or 20 feet in length terminating in a conic shape at it's lower extremity, formed of willows, was opposed to a small apperture in the wear with it's mouth up stream to receive the fish. the main channel of the water was conducted to this basket, which was so narrow at it's lower extremity that the fish when once in could not turn itself about, and were taken out by untying the small ends of the longitudinal willows, which frormed the hull of the basket. the wear in the main channel was somewhat differently contrived. there were two distinct wears formed of poles and willow sticks, quite across the river, at no great distance from each other. each of these, were furnished with two baskets; the one wear to take them ascending and the other in decending. in constructing these wears, poles were first tyed together in parcels of three near the smaller extremity; these were set on end, and spread in a triangular form at the base, in such manner, that two of the three poles ranged in the direction of the intended work, and the third down the stream. two ranges of horizontal poles were next lashed with willow bark and wythes to the ranging poles, and on these willow sticks were placed perpendicularly, reaching from the bottom of the river to about 3 or four feet above it's surface; and placed so near each other, as not to permit the passage of the fish, and even so thick in some parts, as with the help of gravel and stone to give a direction to the water which they wished.—the baskets were the same in form of the others. this is the form of the work, and disposition of the baskets.
This morning, Captain C. started his march early. After five miles, he reached some brush lodges of the Shoshones, where about seven families lived. He stopped there and was welcomed warmly by the people, who offered him and his party as much boiled salmon as they could eat. They also gave him several dried salmon and a good amount of dried chokecherries. After sharing some smokes with them, he visited their fish weir, which was about 200 yards away. He found the weir stretched across four channels of the river, divided by three small islands. Three of these channels were narrow and were blocked by fallen trees, supported by willow stakes driven into the ground close enough together to prevent the salmon from passing. In the center of each channel was a cylindrical basket, 18 to 20 feet long and tapering to a point at the bottom, made of willows, positioned against a small opening in the weir, with its mouth facing upstream to catch the fish. The main flow of the water directed into this basket was so narrow at the bottom that once the fish entered, they couldn't turn around, and they were taken out by untying the small ends of the longitudinal willows that formed the basket's hull. The weir in the main channel was designed a bit differently. There were two distinct weirs made of poles and willow sticks, spanning across the river at a short distance from each other. Each of these had two baskets; one to catch the fish going upstream and the other for those coming downstream. To build these weirs, poles were first tied together in groups of three near the smaller ends; these were set upright and spread in a triangular shape at the base, so that two of the three poles aligned with the direction of the intended work, while the third pointed downstream. Two rows of horizontal poles were then secured with willow bark and twigs to the standing poles, and perpendicular willow sticks were placed from the bottom of the river to about 3 or 4 feet above the surface, arranged so close together that they wouldn’t allow fish to pass. In some areas, they were thick enough to help guide the water using gravel and stones in the desired direction. The baskets were shaped like the others. This is how the structure and arrangement of the baskets were set up.
After examining the wears Capt. C. returned to the lodges, and shortly continued his rout and passed the river to the Lard. side a little distance below the wears. he sent Collins with an Indian down the Lard. side of the river to the forks 5 me. in surch of Cruzatte who was left at the upper camp yesterday to purchase a horse and had followed on today and passed them by another road while they were at the lodges and had gone on to the forks. while Capt. Clark was at these lodges an Indian brought him a tomehawk which he said he found in the grass near the lodge where I had staid at the upper camp when I was first with his nation the tommahawk was Drewyer's he missed it in the morning before we had set out and surched for it but it was not to be found I beleive the young fellow stole it, but if he did it is the only article they have pilfered and this was now returned. Capt. C. after traveling about 20 miles through the valley with the course of the river nearly N. W. encamped on the Stard. side in a small bottom under a high Clift of rocks. on his way one of the party killed a very large Salmon in a creek which they passed at the distance of 14 ms. he was joined this evening by Cruzatte and Collins who brought with them five fresh salmon which had been given them by the Indians at the forks. the forks of this river is famous as a gig fishery and is much resorted by the natives.—They killed one deer today. The Guide apeared to be a very friendly intelligent old man, Capt. C. is much pleased with him.
After checking out the dams, Capt. C. returned to the cabins and soon continued on his route, crossing the river to the left side a short distance below the dams. He sent Collins with an Indian down the left side of the river to the forks, five miles away, in search of Cruzatte, who had stayed at the upper camp yesterday to buy a horse and had taken a different route today, passing them while they were at the cabins and heading to the forks. While Capt. Clark was at these cabins, an Indian brought him a tomahawk that he claimed to have found in the grass near the lodge where I had stayed at the upper camp when I first joined his group. The tomahawk belonged to Drewyer; he had missed it in the morning before we set out and searched for it without any luck. I believe the young guy stole it, but if he did, it's the only thing they have taken, and it was returned now. After traveling about 20 miles through the valley with the river flowing nearly northwest, Capt. C. set up camp on the right side in a small area under a high cliff of rocks. On the way, one of the members of the group caught a very large salmon in a creek they passed about 14 miles away. He was joined that evening by Cruzatte and Collins, who brought back five fresh salmon gifted to them by the Indians at the forks. The forks of this river are famous for fishing and are frequented by the natives. They also killed one deer today. The guide seemed to be a very friendly and intelligent old man, and Capt. C. is quite pleased with him.
[Clark, August 21, 1805]
August 21st Wednesday 1805 Frost last night proceeded on with the Indians I met about 5 miles to there Camp, I entered a lodge and after Smokeing with all who Came about me I went to See the place those people take the fish, a wear across the Creek in which there is Stuk baskets Set in different derections So as to take the fish either decending or assending on my return to the Camp which was 200 yards only the different lodges (which is only bushes) brought in to the lodge I was introduced into, Sammon boiled, and dried Choke Chers. Sufficent for all my party.—one man brought me a tomahawk which we expected they had Stolen from a man of Capt Lewis's party, this man informed me he found the tomk in the grass near the place the man Slept. Crossed the River and went over a point of high land & Struck it again near a Bluff on the right Side the man I left to get a horse at the upper Camp missed me & went to the forks which is about five miles below the last Camp.
August 21st, Wednesday, 1805 It frosted last night. I continued on with the Indians. I met them about 5 miles from their camp. I entered a lodge, and after smoking with everyone who came around me, I went to see where they catch fish. There’s a weir across the creek with baskets set in different directions to catch fish, whether they’re going up or down. On my way back to the camp, which was only 200 yards away, I passed different lodges (which are just bushes) and was invited into the lodge where I found salmon boiled and dried chokecherries—enough for my whole party. One man brought me a tomahawk that we thought had been stolen from a man in Captain Lewis's party. This man told me he found the tomahawk in the grass near where the man had slept. I crossed the river and went over a point of high land, and struck the creek again near a bluff on the right side. The man I left to get a horse at the upper camp missed me and went to the forks, which is about five miles below the last camp.
I sent one man by the forks with derections to join me to night with the one now at that place, those two men joined me at my Camp on the right Side below the 1st Clift with 5 Sammon which the Indians gave them at the forks, the place they gig fish at this Season. Their method of takeing fish with a gig or bone is with a long pole, about a foot from one End is a Strong String attached to the pole, this String is a little more than a foot long and is tied to the middle of a bone from 4 to 6 inches long, one end Sharp the other with a whole to fasten on the end of the pole with a beard to the large end, the fasten this bone on one end & with the other, feel for the fish & turn and Strike them So hard that the bone passes through and Catches on the opposit Side, Slips off the End of the pole and holds the Center of the bone Those Indians are mild in their disposition appear Sincere in their friendship, punctial, and decided. kind with what they have, to Spare. They are excessive pore, nothing but horses there Enemies which are noumerous on account of there horses & Defenceless Situation, have Deprived them of tents and all the Small Conveniances of life. They have only a few indifferent Knives, no ax, make use of Elk's horn Sharpened to Spit ther wood, no clothes except a Short Legins & robes of different animals, Beaver, Bear, Buffalow, wolf Panthor, Ibex, Sheep Deer, but most commonly the antilope Skins which they ware loosely about them—Their ornements are Orter Skin dcurated with See Shells & the Skins & tales of the white weasel, Sea Shels of different size hung to their Ears hair and breast of their Shirts, beeds of Shells platted grass, and Small Strings of otter Skin dressed, they are fond of our trinkets, and give us those ornements as the most valueable of their possession. The women are held Sacred and appear to have an equal Shere in all Conversation, which is not the Case in any othe nation I have Seen. their boeys & Girls are also admited to Speak except in Councils, the women doe all the drugery except fishing and takeing care of the horses, which the men apr. to take upon themselves.—The men ware the hair loose flowing over ther Sholders & face the women Cut Short, orniments of the back bones of fish Strung plated grass grains of Corn Strung Feathers and orniments of Birds Claws of the Bear encurcling their necks the most Sacred of all the orniments of this nation is the Sea Shells of various Sizes and Shapes and colours, of the bassterd perl kind, which they inform us they get from the Indians to the South on the other Side of a large fork of this river in passing to which they have to pass thro Sandy & barron open plains without water to which place they can travel in 15 or 20 days—The men who passed by the forks informed me that the S W. fork was double the Size of the one I came down, and I observed that it was a handsom river at my camp I shall injustice to Capt Lewis who was the first white man ever on this fork of the Columbia Call this Louis's river. one Deer killed this morning, and a Sammon in the last Creek 21/2 feet long The Westerley fork of the Columbia River is double the Size of the Easterley fork & below those forks the river is about the Size Jeffersons River near its mouth or 100 yards wide, it is verry rapid & Sholey water Clear but little timber. This Clift is of a redish brown Colour the rocks which fall from it is a dark brown flint tinged with that Colour. Some Gullies of white Sand Stone and Sand fine & as white as Snow. The mountains on each Side are high, and those on the East ruged & Contain a fiew Scattering pine, those on the West contain pine on ther tops & high up the hollows—The bottoms of this is wide & rich from some distance above the place I struck the East fork they are also wide on the East Passed a large Creek which fall in on the right Side 6 miles below the forks a road passes up this Creek & to the Missouri.
I sent a man to the forks with instructions to meet me tonight with the one currently at that location. Those two men met up with me at my camp on the right side, below the first cliff, bringing five salmon that the Indians gave them at the forks, the place where they gig fish this season. Their method of catching fish involves using a long pole, with a strong string attached about a foot from one end. This string is slightly longer than a foot and ties to the middle of a bone that is typically 4 to 6 inches long, with one end sharp and the other end featuring a hole to fasten it to the end of the pole, along with a beard at the broader end. They secure this bone on one end, and with the other, they feel for the fish, turning and striking them so hard that the bone goes through and catches on the opposite side, slipping off the end of the pole and holding the center of the bone. Those Indians are generally mild-mannered and appear sincere in their friendship; they are punctual and decisive, sharing kindly what little they have. They are extremely poor, with only horses; their numerous enemies, tempted by the horses, have deprived them of tents and all the small comforts of life. They possess only a few poor knives, no axes, and make do with sharpened elk horns to split their wood. They wear no clothing except for short leggings and robes made from various animals such as beaver, bear, buffalo, wolf, panther, ibex, and sheep, but most commonly they use antelope skins worn loosely around them. Their ornaments are made of otter skin decorated with seashells, as well as skins and tails of the white weasel, seashells of different sizes hung on their ears, and beads made from shells, woven grass, and small strings of dressed otter skin. They are fond of our trinkets and give those ornaments to us as the most valuable of their possessions. The women are revered and seem to share equally in all discussions, which is not the case in any other nation I've observed. Their boys and girls are also allowed to speak, except in councils. The women do all the chores except fishing and looking after the horses, which the men seem to manage. The men wear their hair loose, flowing over their shoulders and faces, while the women cut theirs short. They adorn themselves with ornaments made from fish backbones strung with woven grass, corn grains, and feathers, along with bear claws around their necks. The most sacred of all the ornaments among this nation is the seashells of various sizes, shapes, and colors, particularly the bastard pearl kind. They tell us they get these from Indians to the south across a large fork of this river, where they must travel through sandy, barren open plains without water, making the trip in 15 to 20 days. The men who passed by the forks informed me that the southwest fork is twice the size of the one I came down, and I noticed that it was a beautiful river. At my camp, I must give credit to Captain Lewis, who was the first white man to explore this fork of the Columbia; I will call it Lewis's River. One deer was killed this morning, with a salmon caught in the last creek measuring 2.5 feet long. The westerly fork of the Columbia River is twice the size of the easterly fork, and below those forks, the river is about the size of Jefferson's River near its mouth, approximately 100 yards wide, very fast, and shallow with clear water but little timber. This cliff is reddish-brown, with rocks that fall from it being dark brown flint tinged with that color. There are some gullies of white sandstone and sand, fine and as white as snow. The mountains on each side are high; those on the east are rugged and contain a few scattered pines, while those on the west have pine at the tops and high up in the hollows. The bottoms here are wide and rich, extending some distance above where I hit the east fork, and are also wide on the east side. I passed a large creek that joins on the right side, 6 miles below the forks, where a road leads up this creek to the Missouri.
[Lewis, August 22, 1805]
Thursday August 22ed 1805 This morning early I sent a couple of men to complete the covering of the cash which could not be done well last night in the dark, they soon accomplished their work and returned. late last night Drewyer returned with a fawn he had killed and a considerable quantity of Indian plunder. the anecdote with rispect to the latter is perhaps worthy of relation. he informed me that while hunting in the Cove yesterday about 12 OCk. he came suddonly upon an Indian Camp, at which there were a young man an Old man a boy and three women, that they seemed but little supprised at seeing him and he rode up to them and dismounted turning horse out to graize. these people had just finished their repast on some roots, he entered into conversation with them by signs, and after about 20 minutes one of the women spoke to the others of the party and they all went immediately and collected their horses brought them to camp and saddled them at this moment he thought he would also set out and continue his hunt, and accorgingly walked to catch his horse at some little distance and neglected to take up his gun which, he left at camp. the Indians perceiving him at the distance of fifty paces immediately mounted their horses, the young man took the gun and the whole of them left their baggage and laid whip to their horses directing their course to the pass of the mountains. finding himself deprived of his gun he immediately mounted his horse and pursued; after runing them about 10 miles the horses of two of the women nearly gave out and the young fellow with the gun from their frequent crys slackened his pace and being on a very fleet horse road around the women at a little distance at length Drewer overtook the women and by signs convinced them that he did not wish to hirt them they then halted and the young fellow approached still nearer, he asked him for his gun but the only part of the answer which he could understand was pah kee which he knew to be the name by which they called their enimies. watching his opportunity when the fellow was off his guard he suddonly rode along side of him seized his gun and wrest her out of his hands. the fellow finding Drewyer too strong for him and discovering that he must yeald the gun had pesents of mind to open the pan and cast the priming before he let the gun escape from his hands; now finding himself devested of the gun he turned his horse about and laid whip leaving the women to follow him as well as they could. Drewyer now returned to the place they had left their baggage and brought it with him to my camp. it consisted of several dressed and undressed skins; a couple of bags wove with the fingers of the bark of the silk-grass containing each about a bushel of dryed service berries some checherry cakes and about a bushel of roots of three different kinds dryed and prepared for uce which were foalded in as many parchment hides of buffaloe. some flint and the instrument of bone for manufactureing the flint into arrow points. some of this flint was as transparent as the common black glass and much of the same colour easily broken, and flaked off much like glass leaving a very sharp edge. one speceis of the roots were fusiform abot six inches long and about the size of a man's finger at the larger end tapering to a small point. the radicles larger than in most fusiform roots. the rind was white and thin. the body or consistence of the root was white mealy and easily reduced by pounding to a substance resembleing flour which thickens with boiling water something like flour and is agreeably flavored. this rout is frequently eaten by the Indians either green or in it's dryed state without the preparation of boiling. another speceis was much mutilated but appeared to be fibrous; the parts were brittle, hard of the size of a small quill, cilindric and as white as snow throughout, except some small parts of the hard black rind which they had not seperated in the preperation. this the Indians with me informed were always boiled for use. I made the exprement, found that they became perfectly soft by boiling, but had a very bitter taste, which was naucious to my pallate, and I transfered them to the Indians who had eat them heartily. a third speceis were about the size of a nutmeg, and of an irregularly rounded form, something like the smallest of the Jerusalem artichoke, which they also resemble in every other appearance. they had become very hard by being dryed these I also boiled agreeably to the instruction of the Indians and found them very agreeable. they resemble the Jerusalem Artichoke very much in their flavor and I thought them preferable, however there is some allowance to be made for the length of time I have now been without vegitable food to which I was always much attatched. these are certainly the best root I have yet seen in uce among the Indians. I asked the Indians to shew me the plant of which these roots formed a part but they informed me that neither of them grew near this place. I had set most of the men at work today to dress the deerskin belonging to those who had gone on command with Capt. Clark. at 11 A.M. Charbono the Indian Woman, Cameahwait and about 50 men with a number of women and children arrived. they encamped near us. after they had turned out their horses and arranged their camp I called the Cheifs and warriors together and addressed them a second time; gave them some further presents, particularly the second and third Cheifs who it appeared had agreeably to their promise exerted themselves in my favour. having no fresh meat and these poor devils half starved I had previously prepared a good meal for them all of boiled corn and beans which I gave them as soon as the council was over and I had distributed the presents. this was thankfully received by them. the Chief wished that his nation could live in a country where they could provide such food. I told him that it would not be many years before the whitemen would put it in the power of his nation to live in the country below the mountains where they might cultivate corn beans and squashes. he appeared much pleased with the information. I gave him a few dryed squashes which we had brought from the Mandans he had them boiled and declared them to be the best thing he had ever tasted except sugar, a small lump of which it seems his sister Sah-cah-gar Wea had given him. late in the evening I made the men form a bush drag, and with it in about 2 hours they caught 528 very good fish, most of them large trout. among them I now for the first time saw ten or a douzen of a whte speceis of trout. they are of a silvery colour except on the back and head, where they are of a bluish cast. the scales are much larger than the speckled trout, but in their form position of their fins teeth mouth &c they are precisely like them they are not generally quite as large but equally well flavored. I distributed much the greater portion of the fish among the Indians. I purchased five good horses of them very reasonably, or at least for about the value of six dollars a peice in merchandize. the Indians are very orderly and do not croud about our camp nor attempt to disterb any article they see lying about. they borrow knives kettles &c from the men and always carefully return them. Capt. Clark says, "we set out early and passed a small creek at one mile, also the points of four mountains which were high steep and rocky. the mountains are so steep that it is almost incredible to mention that horses had passed them. our road in many places lay over the sharp fragments of rocks which had fallen from the mountains and lay in confused heaps for miles together; yet notwithstanding our horsed traveled barefoot over them as fast as we could and did not detain us. passed two bold runing streams, and arrived at the entrance of a small river" where some Indian families resided. they had some scaffoalds of fish and burries exposed to dry. they were not acquainted with the circumstance of any whitemen being in their country and were therefore much allarmed on our approach several of the women and children fled in the woods for shelter. the guide was behind and the wood thick in which their lodges were situated we came on them before they had the least notice of us. those who remained offered us every thing they had, which was but little; they offered us collars of elks tusks which their children woar Salmon beries &c. we eat some of their fish and buries but returned them the other articles they had offered with a present of some small articles which seemed to add much to their pacification.
Thursday, August 22, 1805 This morning, I sent a couple of men to finish covering the cash that couldn’t be done well last night in the dark. They quickly got it done and returned. Late last night, Drewyer came back with a fawn he had killed and a good amount of stolen goods from the Indians. The story about the latter is probably worth telling. He told me that while hunting in the Cove yesterday around noon, he suddenly stumbled upon an Indian camp, which had a young man, an old man, a boy, and three women. They didn’t seem too surprised to see him, so he rode up to them, dismounted, and let his horse graze. These people had just finished eating some roots. He started to communicate with them using signs, and after about 20 minutes, one of the women spoke to the others, and they all went right away to gather their horses, bringing them to camp and saddling them. At this moment, he thought it was time to continue his hunt, so he walked to catch his horse at a short distance, forgetting to grab his gun, which he left at camp. The Indians, noticing him about fifty paces away, immediately mounted their horses. The young man grabbed the gun, and they all took off, leaving their belongings behind and spurring their horses toward the mountain pass. Realizing he was without his gun, Drewyer quickly mounted his horse and chased after them. After running about 10 miles, the horses of two of the women nearly gave out, and the young man with the gun slowed down due to their cries. On a very fast horse, he rode around the women at a distance. Eventually, Drewyer caught up with the women and, using signs, convinced them he meant no harm. They paused, and the young man approached closer. Drewyer asked for his gun, but the only part of the answer he could understand was "pah kee," which he knew was the term for their enemies. Waiting for the right moment when the guy was off guard, he suddenly rode up alongside him, grabbed the gun, and wrestled it out of his hands. The young man realized he was outmatched and, before relinquishing the gun, had the presence of mind to open the pan and dump the priming. Now without the gun, he turned his horse and galloped away, leaving the women to follow as best they could. Drewyer returned to where they left their belongings and took them back to my camp. It included several dressed and undressed skins; a couple of bags woven from the bark of silk-grass, each containing about a bushel of dried serviceberries, some cherry cakes, and about a bushel of three different kinds of dried roots prepared for use, wrapped in as many parchment hides of buffalo. There were some flint and a bone tool for making arrow points from the flint. Some of this flint was as transparent as ordinary black glass, and much of it was similar in color, easily broken and flaking off like glass, leaving a very sharp edge. One type of root was fusiform, about six inches long and roughly the size of a man's finger at the thicker end tapering to a point. The roots were larger than in most fusiform types. The skin was white and thin. The root's meat was white, mealy, and easily ground into a flour-like substance that thickens with boiling water, similar to regular flour, and has a pleasant flavor. The Indians often eat this root either fresh or in its dried state without cooking. Another type was quite damaged but appeared fibrous; the parts were brittle, hard, shaped like a small quill, cylindrical, and uniformly white except for small bits of the hard black skin that hadn’t been removed during preparation. The Indians with me said these were always boiled for use. I tried cooking them and found they softened well, but they had a very bitter taste, which I found unpleasant, so I gave them to the Indians, who ate them eagerly. A third type was about the size of a nutmeg and had an oddly rounded shape, somewhat resembling the smallest Jerusalem artichoke, which they also resembled in most other aspects. They had dried out and become very hard. I boiled these as directed by the Indians and found them quite enjoyable. They had a flavor very similar to Jerusalem artichokes, which I thought preferable; however, some consideration must be given to how long I’ve been without vegetable food, which I’ve always liked. These are certainly the best roots I've seen in use among the Indians. I asked the Indians to show me the plant these roots came from, but they told me that neither grew near this place. I had most of the men working today to tan the deer skins belonging to those who had gone out with Captain Clark. At 11 A.M., Charbono, the Indian woman, Cameahwait, and about 50 men with several women and children arrived. They set up camp near us. After turning out their horses and arranging their camp, I called the chiefs and warriors together and spoke to them a second time; I gave them some more gifts, especially to the second and third chiefs, who seemed to have fulfilled their promise on my behalf. With no fresh meat and these poor people half-starved, I had already prepared a good meal of boiled corn and beans, which I served them as soon as the council finished and I had handed out the gifts. They were very thankful. The chief wished his nation could live in a place where they could have such food. I told him that it wouldn’t be long before the white men would help his nation be able to live in the lands below the mountains where they might grow corn, beans, and squash. He seemed very pleased with this news. I gave him a few dried squashes we had brought from the Mandans; he had them boiled and declared them the best thing he had ever tasted, except for sugar, a small lump of which his sister, Sah-cah-gar Wea, had given him. Late in the evening, I had the men make a bush drag, and within about two hours, they caught 528 very good fish, most of them large trout. Among them, for the first time, I spotted ten or a dozen of a white species of trout. They had a silvery color except on the backs and heads, where they were bluish. The scales were larger than the speckled trout, but in their shape, position of fins, teeth, mouth, etc., they were identical. They aren’t usually as large but are equally tasty. I shared most of the fish with the Indians and bought five good horses from them at a reasonable price, or about the equivalent of six dollars each in merchandise. The Indians are very well-behaved and don’t crowd our camp or disturb anything they see lying around. They borrow knives, kettles, etc., from the men and always return them carefully. Captain Clark says, "We set out early and crossed a small creek at one mile, also passed the tips of four high, steep, and rocky mountains. The mountains are so steep it’s almost unbelievable that horses have passed over them. Our path in many areas lay over sharp fragments of rock that had fallen from the mountains, scattered for miles; yet our horses traveled over them barefoot as quickly as we could and didn’t slow us down. We crossed two strong, running streams and arrived at the mouth of a small river where some Indian families lived. They had some scaffolds with fish and berries out to dry. They didn’t know about any white people being in their area and were very alarmed by our approach, with several women and children fleeing into the woods for safety. The guide lagged behind, and the woods were thick where their lodges were situated, so we reached them before they had any idea we were there. Those who stayed offered us everything they had, which was scarce; they offered us collars made from elk tusks that their children wore, salmon berries, etc. We ate some of their fish and berries but returned the other offered items along with some small gifts that seemed to calm them down significantly.
The guide who had by this time arrived explained to them who we were and our object in visiting them; but still there were some of the women and Children inconsoleable, they continued to cry during our stay, which was about an hour. a road passes up this river which my guide informed me led over the mountains to the Missouri. from this place I continued my rout along the steep side of a mountain for about 3 miles and arrived at the river near a small Island on the lower point of which we encamped in the evening we attempted to gig fish but were unsuccessfull only obtaining one small salmon. in the course of the day we had passed several women and children geathering burries who were very liberal in bestoing us a part of their collections. the river is very rapid and shoaly; many rocks lie in various derections scattered throughout it's bed. There are some few small pine scattered through the bottoms, of which I only saw one which appeared as if it would answer for a canoe and that was but small. the tops of the mountains on the Lard. side are covered with pine and some also scattered on the sides of all the mountains. I saw today a speceis of woodpecker, which fed on the seeds of the pine. it's beak and tail were white, it's wings were black, and every other part of a dark brown. it was about the size of a robin-
The guide who had arrived by this time explained to them who we were and why we were visiting; however, some of the women and children were inconsolable, continuing to cry during our stay, which lasted about an hour. A road runs up this river that my guide told me leads over the mountains to Missouri. From there, I continued my route along the steep side of a mountain for about three miles and arrived at the river near a small island, where we set up camp in the evening. We tried to gig fish but were unsuccessful, only catching one small salmon. Throughout the day, we passed several women and children gathering berries, who generously shared some of their haul with us. The river is very swift and shallow, with many rocks scattered in various directions throughout its bed. There are a few small pines scattered along the bottoms; I only saw one that seemed suitable for making a canoe, and it was quite small. The tops of the mountains on the left side are covered with pines, with some also scattered on the slopes of all the mountains. I saw a species of woodpecker today that fed on pine seeds; its beak and tail were white, its wings were black, and the rest of its body was dark brown. It was about the size of a robin.
[Clark, August 22, 1805]
August 22d Thursday 1805 We Set out early passed a Small Creek on the right at 1 mile and the points of four mountains verry Steap high & rockey, the assent of three was So Steap that it is incrediable to describe the rocks in maney places loose & Sliped from those mountains and is a bed of rugid loose white and dark brown loose rock for miles. the Indian horses pass over those Clifts hills Sids & rocks as fast as a man, the three horses with me do not detain me any on account of those dificuelties, passed two bold rung. Streams on the right and a Small river at the mouth of Which Several families of Indians were encamped and had Several Scaffolds of fish & buries drying we allarmed them verry much as they knew nothing of a white man being in their Countrey, and at the time we approached their lodges which was in a thick place of bushes-my guiedes were behind.—They offered every thing they possessed (which was verry littl) to us, Some run off and hid in the bushes The first offer of theirs were Elks tuskes from around their Childrens necks, Sammon &c. my guide attempted passifyed those people and they Set before me berres, & fish to eate, I gave a fiew Small articles to those fritened people which added verry much to their pasification but not entirely as Some of the women & Childn. Cried dureing my Stay of an hour at this place, I proceeded on the Side of a verry Steep & rockey mountain for 3 miles and Encamped on the lower pt. of an Island. we attempted to gig fish without Suckcess. caught but one Small one.The last Creek or Small river is on the right Side and "a road passes up it & over to the Missouri" in this day passed Several womin and Children gathering and drying buries of which they were very kind and gave us a part. the river rapid and Sholey maney Stones Scattered through it in different directions. I Saw to day Bird of the wood pecker kind which fed on Pine burs its Bill and tale white the wings black every other part of a light brown, and about the Size of a robin. Some fiew Pine Scattered in the bottoms & Sides of the Mountains (the Top of the Motn. to the left Covered & inaxcessable) I Saw one which would make a Small Canoe.
August 22, Thursday, 1805: We set out early and passed a small creek to our right after one mile. The peaks of four mountains were very steep, high, and rocky. The climb on three of them was so steep that it's hard to describe; in many places, the rocks were loose and slipping from the mountains, creating a rough bed of loose white and dark brown rocks for miles. The Indian horses can navigate those cliffs and rocky hills as fast as a person can walk; the three horses with me didn't hold me back at all because of these difficulties. We passed two rushing streams on our right and a small river at the mouth of which several families of Indians were camped, drying fish and berries on several scaffolds. They were very alarmed as they had never seen a white man in their territory, especially as we approached their lodges, which were hidden in thick bushes—my guides were behind me. They offered me everything they had, which was very little; some ran off and hid in the bushes. The first things they offered were elk tusks from around their children's necks, salmon, etc. My guide tried to calm them down, and they set out berries and fish for me to eat. I gave a few small items to these frightened people, which helped reassure them, but not completely, as some of the women and children cried during my hour-long stay there. I continued along the side of a very steep and rocky mountain for three miles and camped on the lower part of an island. We tried to catch fish with no success and only caught one small fish. The last creek or small river is on the right side, and "a road passes up it and over to the Missouri." On this day, we saw several women and children gathering and drying berries, and they were very kind, giving us some. The river was rapid and shallow, with many stones scattered throughout it in different directions. I saw a woodpecker-like bird feeding on pine cones; its bill and tail were white, the wings were black, and the rest of its body was a light brown, about the size of a robin. There were a few scattered pine trees in the valleys and on the sides of the mountains (the top of the mountain to our left was covered and inaccessible). I saw one that could be used to make a small canoe.
[Lewis, August 23, 1805]
Friday August 23rd 1805. This morning I arrose very early and despatched two hunters on horseback with orders to extend their hunt to a greater distance up the S. E. fork than they had done heretofore, in order if possible to obtain some meet for ourselves as well as the Indians who appeared to depend on us for food and our store of provision is growing too low to indulge them with much more corn or flour. I wished to have set out this morning but the cheef requested that I would wait untill another party of his nation arrived which he expected today, to this I consented from necessity, and therefore sent out the hunters as I have mentioned. I also laid up the canoes this morning in a pond near the forks; sunk them in the water and weighted them down with stone, after taking out the plugs of the gage holes in their bottoms; hoping by this means to guard against both the effects of high water, and that of the fire which is frequently kindled in these plains by the natives. the Indians have promised to do them no intentional injury and beleive they are too lazy at any rate to give themselves the trouble to raise them from their present situation in order to cut or birn them. I reminded the chief of the low state of our stores of provision and advised him to send his young men to hunt, which he immediately recommended to them and most of them turned out. I wished to have purchased some more horses of them but they objected against disposing of any more of them untill we reach their camp beyond the mountains. the Indians pursued a mule buck near our camp I saw this chase for about 4 miles it was really entertaining, there were about twelve of them in pursuit of it on horseback, they finally rode it down and killed it. the all came in about 1 P.M. having killed 2 mule deer and three goats. this mule buck was the largest deer of any kind I had ever seen. it was nearly as large as a doe Elk. I observed that there was but little division or distribution of the meat they had taken among themselves. some familes had a large stock and others none. this is not customary among the nations of Indians with whom I have hitherto been acquainted I asked Cameahwait the reason why the hunters did not divide the meat among themselves; he said that meat was so scarce with them that the men who killed it reserved it for themselves and their own families. my hunters arrived about 2 in the evening with two mule deer and three common deer. I distributed three of the deer among those families who appeared to have nothing to eat. at three P.M. the expected party of Indians arrived, about 50 men women and Children. I now learnt that most of them were thus far on their way down the valley towards the buffaloe country, and observed that there was a good deel of anxiety on the part of some of those who had promised to assist me over the mountains to accompany this party, I felt some uneasiness on this subject but as they still said they would return with me as they had promised I said nothing to them but resolved to set out in the morning as early as possible. I dispatched two hunters this evening into the cove to hunt and leave the meat they might kill on the rout we shall pass tomorrow.
Friday, August 23rd, 1805. This morning, I woke up very early and sent two hunters on horseback with instructions to venture farther up the S.E. fork than they had before, hoping to get some meat for ourselves as well as the Indians who seemed to rely on us for food. Our supply of provisions is getting too low to give them much more corn or flour. I wanted to leave this morning, but the chief asked me to wait for another group of his people expected today. I agreed out of necessity, so I sent out the hunters as mentioned. I also secured the canoes this morning in a pond near the forks; I sank them in the water and weighed them down with stones after removing the plugs from the drain holes in the bottoms. This was to protect them from high water and the fires that natives often start in these plains. The Indians have promised not to intentionally harm them, and I believe they are too lazy anyway to bother raising them from their current position to cut or burn them. I reminded the chief about our dwindling food supplies and suggested he send his young men to hunt, which he immediately recommended to them, and most of them went out. I wanted to buy some more horses from them, but they refused to sell any until we reached their camp beyond the mountains. The Indians chased a mule deer near our camp, which I watched for about four miles; it was quite entertaining. About twelve of them pursued it on horseback, and they eventually caught and killed it. They all returned around 1 P.M. having killed two mule deer and three goats. This mule deer was the largest I had ever seen; it was nearly as big as a doe elk. I noticed there was little sharing of the meat they had taken among themselves; some families had plenty while others had none. This isn't typical among the Indian tribes I've been with before. I asked Cameahwait why the hunters didn’t share the meat, and he said that meat was so scarce for them that the men who killed it kept it for themselves and their families. My hunters returned around 2 in the afternoon with two mule deer and three common deer. I shared three of the deer with families that seemed to have nothing to eat. At 3 P.M., the expected group of Indians arrived—about 50 men, women, and children. I learned that most of them were on their way down the valley towards the buffalo country, and I noticed some anxiety from those who promised to help me over the mountains to travel with this group. I felt some concern about this, but since they still said they would return with me as promised, I said nothing, deciding to leave in the morning as early as possible. I dispatched two hunters this evening into the cove to hunt and leave any meat they might kill along the route we’ll take tomorrow.
The metal which we found in possession of these people consited of a few indifferent knives, a few brass kettles some arm bands of iron and brass, a few buttons, woarn as ornaments in their hair, a spear or two of a foot in length and some iron and brass arrow points which they informed me they obtained in exchange for horses from the Crow or Rocky Mountain Indians on the yellowstone River. the bridlebits and stirrips they obtained from the Spaniards, tho these were but few. many of them made use of flint for knives, and with this instrument, skined the animals they killed, dressed their fish and made their arrows; in short they used it for every purpose to which the knife is applyed. this flint is of no regular form, and if they can only obtain a part of it, an inch or two in length that will cut they are satisfyed, they renew the edge by fleaking off the flint by means of the point of an Elk's or deer's horn. with the point of a deer or Elk's horn they also form their arrow points of the flint, with a quickness and neatness that is really astonishing. we found no axes nor hatchets among them; what wood they cut was done either with stone or Elk's horn. the latter they use always to rive or split their wood. their culinary eutensils exclusive of the brass kettle before mentioned consist of pots in the form of ajar made either of earth, or of a white soft stone which becomes black and very hard by birning, and is found in the hills near the three forks of the Missouri betwen Madison's and Gallitin's rivers they have also spoons made of the Buffaloe's horn and those of the Bighorn. Their bows are made of ceader or pine and have nothing remarkable about them. the back of the bow is covered with sinues and glue and is about 21/2 feet long. much the shape of those used by the Siouxs Mandans Minnetares &c. their arrows are more slender generally than those used by the nations just mentioned but much the same in construction. Their Sheild is formed of buffaloe hide, perfectly arrow proof, and is a circle of 2 feet 4 I. or 2 F. 6 I. in diameter. this is frequently painted with varios figures and ornamented around the edges with feather and a fringe of dressed leather. they sometimes make bows of the Elk's horn and those also of the bighorn. those of the Elk's horn are made of a single peice and covered on the back with glue and sinues like those made of wood, and are frequently ornamented with a stran wrought porcupine quills and sinues raped around them for some distance at both extremities. the bows of the bighorn are formed of small peices laid flat and cemented with gleue, and rolled with sinews, after which, they are also covered on the back with sinews and glew, and highly ornamented as they are much prized. forming the sheild is a cerimony of great importance among them, this implement would in their minds be devested of much of its protecting power were it not inspired with those virtues by their old men and jugglers. their method of preparing it is thus, an entire skin of a bull buffaloe two years old is first provided; a feast is next prepared and all the warriors old men and jugglers invited to partake. a hole is sunk in the ground about the same in diameter with the intended sheild and about 18 inches deep. a parcel of stones are now made red hot and thrown into the hole water is next thrown in and the hot stones cause it to emit a very strong hot steem, over this they spread the green skin which must not have been suffered to dry after taken off the beast. the flesh side is laid next to the groround and as many of the workmen as can reach it take hold on it's edges and extend it in every direction. as the skin becomes heated, the hair seperates and is taken of with the fingers, and the skin continues to contract untill the whoe is drawn within the compas designed for the shield, it is then taken off and laid on a parchment hide where they pound it with their heels when barefoot. this operation of pounding continues for several days or as long as the feast lasts when it is delivered to the propryeter and declared by the jugglers and old men to be a sufficient defence against the arrows of their enimies or even bullets if feast has been a satisfactory one. many of them beleive implisitly that a ball cannot penitrate their sheilds, in consequence of certain supernaural powers with which they have been inspired by their jugglers.—The Poggamoggon is an instrument with a handle of wood covered with dressed leather about the size of a whip handle and 22 inches long; a round stone of 2 pounds weight is also covered with leather and strongly united to the leather of the handle by a throng of 2 inches long; a loop of leather united to the handle passes arond the wrist. a very heavy blow may be given with this instrument. They have also a kind of armor which they form with many foalds of dressed Atelope's skin, unite with glue and sand. with this they cover their own bodies and those of their horses. these are sufficient against the effects of the arrow.—the quiver which contains their arrows and implements for making fire is formed of various skins. that of the Otter seems to be prefered. they are but narrow, of a length sufficent to protect the arrow from the weather, and are woarn on the back by means of a strap which passes over the left sholder and under the wright arm.their impliments for making fire is nothing more than a blunt arrow and a peice of well seasoned soft spongey wood such as the willow or cottonwood. the point of this arrow they apply to this dry stick so near one edge of it that the particles of wood which are seperated from it by the friction of the arrow falls down by it's side in a little pile. the arrow is held between the palms of the hand with the fingers extended, and being pressed as much as possible against the peice is briskly rolled between the palms of the hands backwards and forwards by pressing the arrow downwards the hands of course in rolling arrow also decend; they bring them back with a quick motion and repeat the operation till the dust by the friction takes fire; the peice and arrow are then removed and some dry grass or Boated wood is added. it astonished me to see in what little time these people would kindle fire in this way. in less than a minute they will produce fire.
The metal we found with these people included a few ordinary knives, some brass kettles, a few iron and brass arm bands, some buttons worn as hair ornaments, a spear or two about a foot long, and some iron and brass arrowheads, which they told me they got in exchange for horses from the Crow or Rocky Mountain Indians by the Yellowstone River. They obtained the bridle bits and stirrups from the Spaniards, though these were quite few. Many of them used flint for knives, and with this tool, they skinned the animals they killed, dressed their fish, and made their arrows; in short, they used it for every purpose a knife is used for. This flint is not in any regular shape, and if they can get just a part of it, an inch or two long that can cut, they are satisfied. They sharpen the edge by flaking off the flint using the point of an elk or deer horn. With the point of a deer or elk horn, they also shape their flint arrowheads with surprising speed and precision. We found no axes or hatchets among them; whatever wood they cut was done either with stone or elk horn. The latter is always used to split their wood. Their cooking utensils, apart from the brass kettle mentioned earlier, consist of pots shaped like jars made from either earth or a soft white stone that turns black and very hard when fired, found in the hills near the three forks of the Missouri between Madison and Gallatin rivers. They also have spoons made from buffalo horn and those of bighorn sheep. Their bows are made from cedar or pine and are unremarkable in design. The back of the bow is covered with sinew and glue and measures about 2.5 feet long, similar in shape to those used by the Sioux, Mandans, Minnesota tribes, etc. Their arrows are generally slimmer than those used by the aforementioned nations but are constructed in a similar manner. Their shield is made from buffalo hide, completely arrow-proof, and is a circle about 2 feet 4 inches or 2 feet 6 inches in diameter. This is often painted with various designs and decorated around the edges with feathers and a fringe of tanned leather. Sometimes, they make bows from elk horn and also from bighorn. The elk horn bows are made from a single piece and covered on the back with glue and sinew, like those made from wood, and are often adorned with finely crafted porcupine quills and sinew wrapped around them for some distance at both ends. The bighorn bows are made from small pieces laid flat, glued together, and then rolled with sinew; afterward, they are also covered on the back with sinew and glue and highly ornamented, as they are highly valued. Creating the shield is a ceremony of great importance to them; this tool would, in their minds, lose much of its protective power if it weren’t infused with virtues by their elders and shamans. Their method of preparing it is as follows: they first procure an entire skin from a two-year-old bull buffalo; then prepare a feast and invite all the warriors, elders, and shamans to partake. A hole is dug in the ground about the same diameter as the intended shield and about 18 inches deep. A bunch of stones are made red hot and thrown into the hole. Water is added, and the hot stones cause it to emit a strong, scalding steam, over which they lay the fresh skin, which must not have dried out after being removed from the animal. The flesh side is placed against the ground, and as many workers as can reach it hold onto its edges and stretch it out in every direction. As the skin heats up, the hair separates and is removed by hand, and the skin continues to shrink until it fits the desired size for the shield. It is then taken off and laid on a parchment hide, where they pound it with their bare heels. This pounding continues for several days or as long as the feast lasts, after which it is delivered to the owner and proclaimed by the shamans and elders to provide sufficient defense against the arrows of their enemies or even bullets if the feast has been satisfactory. Many of them believe wholeheartedly that a bullet cannot penetrate their shields, due to certain supernatural powers infused into them by their shamans. The Poggamoggon is a tool with a wooden handle wrapped in tanned leather, about the size of a whip handle and 22 inches long; it has a round stone weighing 2 pounds, also covered with leather and securely attached to the leather handle by a strap 2 inches long; a loop of leather attached to the handle goes around the wrist. A powerful blow can be delivered with this tool. They also have a form of armor made with multiple layers of tanned antelope skin, held together with glue and sand. This armor protects their own bodies and those of their horses from arrows. The quiver containing their arrows and fire-making tools is made from various skins, with otter skin being preferred. They are narrow, long enough to protect the arrows from the weather, and are worn on the back with a strap that goes over the left shoulder and under the right arm. Their fire-making tools consist solely of a blunt arrow and a piece of well-seasoned, soft, sponge-like wood, such as willow or cottonwood. The point of this arrow is pressed against the dry stick near one edge, causing particles of wood that are separated by the friction to fall into a small pile at its side. The arrow is held between the palms, with fingers extended, and pressed against the wood while being rolled briskly back and forth; as they press downwards, the hands naturally descend. They pull them back quickly and repeat the process until the dust created by the friction catches fire; then the stick and arrow are removed, and some dry grass or tinder is added. I was amazed to see how quickly they could start a fire this way—in less than a minute, they can produce flames.
Capt. Clark set out this morning very early and poroceeded but slowly in consequence of the difficulty of his road which lay along the steep side of a mountain over large irregular and broken masses of rocks which had tumbled from the upper part of the mountain. it was with much wrisk and pain that the horses could get on. at the distance of four miles he arrived at the river and the rocks were here so steep and juted into the river such manner that there was no other alternative but passing through the river, this he attempted with success tho water was so deep for a short distance as to swim the horses and was very rapid; he continued his rout one mile along the edge of the river under this steep Clift to a little bottom, below which the whole current of the river beat against the Stard. shore on which he was, and which was formed of a solid rock perfectly inaccessible to horses. here also the little track which he had been pursuing, terminated. he therefore determined to leave the horses and the majority of the party here and with his guide and three men to continue his rout down the river still further, in order more fully to satisfy himself as to it's practicability. accordingly he directed the men to hunt and fish at this place untill his return. they had not killed anything today but one goose, and the ballance of the little provision they had brought with them, as well as the five salmon they had procured yesterday were consumed last evening; there was of tours no inducement for his halting any time, at this place; after a few minutes he continued his rout clambering over immence rocks and along the sides of lofty precepices on the border of the river to the distance of 12 miles, at which place a large creek discharged itself on the Norh side 12 yds. wide and deep. a short distance above the entrance of this creek there is a narrow bottom which is the first that he had found on the river from that in which he left the horses and party. a plain indian road led up this creek which the guide informed him led to a large river that ran to the North, and was frequented by another nation who occasionally visited this river for the purpose of taking fish. at this place he saw some late appearance of Indians having been encamped and the tracks of a number of horses. Capt. C. halted here about 2 hours, caught some small fish, on which, with the addition of some berries, they dined. the river from the place at which he left the party to his present station was one continued rapid, in which there were five shoals neither of which could be passed with loaded canoes nor even run with empty ones. at those several places therefore it would be necessary to unload and transport the baggage for a considerable distance over steep and almost inacassable rocks where there was no possibility of employing horses for the releif of the men; the canoes would next have to be let down by cords and even with this precaution Capt. C. conceived there would be much wriske of both canoes and men. at one of those shoals the lofty perpendicular rocks which from the bases of the mountains approach the river so nearly on each side, as to prevent the possibility of a portage, or passage for the canoes without expending much labour in removing rocks and cuting away the earth in some places. to surmount These difficulties, precautions must be observed which in their execution must necessarily consume much time and provision, neither of which we can command. the season is now far advanced to remain in these mountains as the Indians inform us we shall shortly have snow; the salmon have so far declined that they are themselves haistening from the country and not an animal of any discription is to be seen in this difficult part of the river larger than a pheasant or a squirrel and they not abundant; add to this that our stock of provision is now so low that it would not support us more than ten days. the bends of the river are short and the currant beats from side to side against the rocks with great violence. the river is about 100 yds. wide and so deep that it cannot be foarded but in a few places, and the rocks approach the river so near in most places that there is no possibility of passing between them and the water; a passage therefore with horses along the river is also impracticable. The sides of these mountains present generally one barren surface of confused and broken masses of stone. above these are white or brown and towards the base of a grey colour and so hard that when struck with a steel, yeald fire like flint. those he had just past were scarcely releived by the appearance of a tree; but those below the entrance of the creek were better covered with timber, and there were also some tall pine near the river. The sides of the mountains are very steep, and the torrents of water which roll down their sides at certain seasons appear to carry with them vast quantities of the loose stone into the river. after dinner Capt. C. continued his rout down the river and at 1/2 a mile pased another creek not so large as that just mentioned, or about 5 yards wide. here his guide informed him that by ascending this creek some distance they would have a better road and would cut off a considerable bend which the river made to the south; accordingly he pursued a well beaten Indian track which led up this creek about six miles, then leaving the creek on the wright he passed over a ridge, and at the distance of a mile arrived at the river where it passes through a well timbered bottom of about eighty acres of land; they passed this bottom and asscended a steep and elivated point of a mountain, from whence the guide shewed him the brake of the river through the mountains for about 20 miles further. this view was terminated by one of the most lofty mountains, Capt. C. informed me, he had ever seen which was perfectly covered with snow. the river directed it's course immediately to this stupendous mountain at the bace of which the gude informe him those difficulties of which himself and nation had spoken, commenced. that after the river reached this mountain it continued it's rout to the North for many miles between high and perpendicular rocks, roling foaming and beating against innumerable rocks which crouded it's channel; that then it penetrated the mountain through a narrow gap leaving a perpendicular rock on either side as high as the top of the mountain which he beheld. that the river here making a bend they could not see through the mountain, and as it was impossible to decend the river or clamber over that vast mountain covered with eternal snow, neither himself nor any of his nation had ever been lower in this direction, than in view of the place at which the river entered this mountain; that if Capt. C. wished him to do so, he would conduct him to that place, where he thought they could probably arrive by the next evening. Capt. C. being now perfictly satisfyed as to the impractability of this rout either by land or water, informed the old man, that he was convinced of the varacity of his assertions and would now return to the village from whence they had set out where he expected to meet myself and party. they now returned to the upper part of the last creek he had passed, and encamped. it was an hour after dark before he reached this place. a small river falls into this fork of the Columbia just above the high mountain through which it passes on the south side.
Capt. Clark set out early this morning and moved slowly due to the tough terrain, which followed the steep side of a mountain covered in large, uneven rocks that had fallen from above. The horses struggled to progress. After four miles, he reached the river, where the rocks jutted steeply into the water, leaving no option but to cross it. He managed to do this successfully, even though the water was deep enough to require swimming for the horses in some spots, and it was moving quickly. He continued along the river for another mile under a steep cliff until he reached a small flat area. Here, the river's current was hitting the starboard shore, which was made of solid rock and completely inaccessible to the horses. The small path he had been following also ended here. So, he decided to leave the horses and most of the group behind, taking just his guide and three men to explore further down the river for better navigation. He instructed the others to fish and hunt at this spot until he returned. They had only caught one goose that day, and the rest of their supplies, including the five salmon they had caught the day before, were gone from the night before. There was no reason to stay longer, so after a few minutes, he pressed on, climbing over huge rocks and along the tall cliffs next to the river for another 12 miles, where he found a large creek on the north side, about 12 yards wide and deep. Just upstream from this creek’s entrance, he discovered a narrow bottom land, the first he had seen since leaving the horses and the group. An established Indian path led up this creek, which his guide told him led to a big river flowing north and was frequented by another tribe that visited to fish. Here, he noticed signs of a recent Indian camp and the tracks of several horses. Captain C. rested for about two hours, caught some small fish, and had a meal with the addition of some berries. The river from where he had left his party to this point was one continuous rapid with five shallow areas that couldn't be navigated by canoes unless unloaded, and even then, not easily. At those spots, it would be necessary to carry the baggage for quite a distance over steep and nearly inaccessible rocks, and there was no chance to use horses to help. The canoes would need to be lowered with ropes, but he feared there would be great risks to both the canoes and the men even with that care. At one of the shallow spots, the tall, vertical rocks from the mountain’s base came so close to the river on both sides that portaging or passing the canoes would require significant labor to move rocks and clear the earth in some sections. To tackle these issues, careful measures must be taken, which would eat up valuable time and supplies, neither of which they had in abundance. The season was late, as the Indians notified them that it would soon snow; the salmon had begun to decline in numbers and were leaving the area, and no animals bigger than a pheasant or squirrel were visible in this challenging stretch of the river, and even they were scarce. Moreover, their food supply was so low that it wouldn’t last more than ten days. The river bends sharply, and the current crashed against the rocks with great force. The river is about 100 yards wide and so deep that it can only be crossed at a few spots. In most areas, the rocks are so close to the river that passing between them and the water is impossible; therefore, traveling along the river with horses is also not feasible. The mountainsides generally show a barren surface made up of disordered and broken rock formations. Above these are white or brown layers, while nearer the base, the stone has a gray color and is so hard that striking it with steel ignites sparks like flint. The area he had just passed had barely any trees, but those lower near the creek entrance had better tree coverage, including some tall pines near the river. The slopes of the mountains are very steep, and during certain seasons, rushing water down their sides seems to carry large amounts of loose rock into the river. After lunch, Capt. C. continued downstream, passing another smaller creek about five yards wide half a mile later. His guide mentioned that by going up this creek for a bit, they would find a better path and could bypass a significant bend the river made to the south. He followed a well-worn Indian trail that led up this creek for about six miles, then left the creek to the right, crossed a ridgeline, and after a mile, reached the river again where it ran through a well-wooded area of about eighty acres. They crossed this flat and climbed steeply up to a higher point on the mountain, from where the guide pointed out the river's route through the mountains for about 20 more miles. This view ended at one of the tallest mountains Capt. C. said he had ever seen, which was completely covered in snow. The river flowed directly towards this gigantic mountain, at the base of which the guide indicated the difficulties that he and his people had previously mentioned began. After the river reached this mountain, it continued north for many miles through high, vertical rocks, swirling and crashing against countless boulders crowding its path. Then it squeezed through the mountain via a narrow gap, flanked by steep cliffs as high as the summit of the mountain before him. Due to the river bending here, they couldn’t see through the mountain, and since it was impossible to either descend the river or climb over the massive, perpetually snow-covered mountain, neither he nor any member of his tribe had ever traveled further down this way than from where they could see the river entering the mountain. He offered to lead Capt. C. to that spot, estimating they could probably reach it by the next evening. Now fully convinced of the impracticality of this route by land or water, Capt. C. told the elder that he believed his statements and would return to the village from where they had set out, hoping to meet up with me and the group. They headed back to the upper section of the last creek he had passed and set up camp. It was an hour past dark when they finally arrived at this location. A small river flows into this fork of the Columbia just above a high mountain on the south side.
[Clark, August 23, 1805]
August 23rd Friday 1805 We Set out early proceed on with great dificuelty as the rocks were So Sharp large and unsettled and the hill sides Steep that the horses could with the greatest risque and dificulty get on, no provisions as the 5 Sammons given us yesterday by the Indians were eaten last night, one goose killed this morning; at 4 miles we came to a place the horses Could not pass without going into the river, we passed one mile to a verry bad riffle the water Confined in a narrow Channel & beeting against the left Shore, as we have no parth further and the Mounts. jut So close as to prevent the possibiley of horses proceeding down, I deturmined to delay the party here and with my guide and three men proceed on down to examine if the river continued bad or was practiable. I Set out with three men directing those left to hunt and fish until my return. I proceeded on Somtims in a Small wolf parth & at other times Climeing over the rocks for 12 miles to a large Creek on the right Side above the mouth of this Creek for a Short distance is a narrow bottom & the first, below the place I left my partey, a road passes down this Creek which I understoode passed to the water of a River which run to Th North & was the ground of another nation, Some fresh Sign about this Creek of horse and Camps. I delayd 2 hours to fish, Cought Some Small fish on which we dined.
August 23rd, Friday, 1805 We set out early, moving ahead with great difficulty as the rocks were sharp, large, and unstable, and the hillsides were steep. The horses struggled greatly to proceed, and we had no provisions left since we finished the five salmon given to us by the Indians last night. One goose was killed this morning. After traveling four miles, we reached a spot where the horses couldn't pass without going into the river. We went another mile to a very bad riffle where the water was confined in a narrow channel and crashing against the left shore. Since there was no path further on and the mountains were so close that it was impossible for the horses to continue down, I decided to delay the party here. With my guide and three men, I went down to check if the river remained difficult or if it was passable. I set off with three men, instructing those left behind to hunt and fish until my return. I moved on, sometimes along a small wolf path and at other times climbing over rocks for 12 miles until I reached a large creek on the right side. Just above the creek's mouth, there was a narrow bottom, and below where I left the party, a road went down this creek, which I understood led to the waters of a river that flowed north and was the territory of another nation. I noticed some fresh signs of horses and camps around this creek. I delayed for two hours to fish and caught some small fish, which we had for lunch.
The River from the place I left my party to this Creek is almost one continued rapid, five verry Considerable rapids the passage of either with Canoes is entirely impossable, as the water is Confined betwen hugh Rocks & the Current beeting from one against another for Some distance below &c. &c. at one of those rapids the mountains Close So Clost as to prevent a possibility of a portage with great labour in Cutting down the Side of the hill removeing large rocks &c. &c. all the others may be passed by takeing every thing over Slipery rocks, and the Smaller ones Passed by letting down the Canoes empty with Cords, as running them would certainly be productive of the loss of Some Canoes, those dificuelties and necessary precautions would delay us an emince time in which provisions would be necessary. (we have but little and nothing to be precured in this quarter except Choke Cheres & red haws not an animal of any kind to be seen and only the track of a Bear) below this Creek the lofty Pine is thick in the bottom hill Sides on the mountains & up the runs. The river has much the resemblance of that above bends Shorter and no passing, after a few miles between the river & the mountains & the Current So Strong that is dangerous crossing the river, and to proceed down it would rendr it necessarey to Cross almost at every bend This river is about 100 yards wide and can be forded but in a few places. below my guide and maney other Indians tell me that the Mountains Close and is a perpendicular Clift on each Side, and Continues for a great distance and that the water runs with great violence from one rock to the other on each Side foaming & roreing thro rocks in every direction, So as to render the passage of any thing impossible. those rapids which I had Seen he said was Small & trifleing in comparrison to the rocks & rapids below, at no great distance & The Hills or mountains were not like those I had Seen but like the Side of a tree Streight up—Those Mountains which I had passed were Steep Contain a white, a brown, & low down a Grey hard stone which would make fire, those Stone were of different Sises all Sharp and are continuly Slipping down, and in maney places one bed of those Stones inclined from the river bottom to the top of the mountains, The Torrents of water which come down aftr a rain carries with it emence numbers of those Stone into the river about 1/2 a mile below the last mentioned Creek another Creek falls in, my guide informed me that our rout was up this Creek by which rout we would Save a considerable bend of the river to the South. we proceeded on a well beeten Indian parth up this Creak about 6 miles and passed over a ridge 1 mile to the river in a Small vally through which we passed and assended a Spur of the Mountain from which place my guide Shew me the river for about 20 miles lower & pointed out the dificulty we returned to the last Creek & camped about one hour after dark.
The river from the spot where I left my party to this creek is almost one continuous rapid, with five significant rapids where navigating with canoes is completely impossible. The water is squeezed between huge rocks, and the current collides from one rock to another for some distance downstream. At one of those rapids, the mountains come so close that it's impossible to portage without extensive labor, like cutting down the hillside and moving large rocks. The other rapids can be crossed by hauling everything over slippery rocks, and the smaller ones can be managed by lowering the empty canoes down with ropes, as attempting to run them would likely result in losing some canoes. These challenges and necessary precautions would set us back a significant amount of time, during which we would need provisions. (We have very little food left and nothing to gather in this area except chokecherries and red haws; no animals are visible, only the tracks of a bear.) Below this creek, the tall pines grow thick along the bottom and hillsides of the mountains and up the runs. The river resembles the section above, with shorter bends and no passable spots; after a few miles, there's little space between the river and the mountains, and the current is so strong that crossing becomes dangerous. Moving downstream would require crossing almost at every bend. This river is about 100 yards wide and can only be forded in a few places. Below me, my guide and many other Native Americans tell me that the mountains close in, creating vertical cliffs on either side, extending for a significant distance, with water rushing violently between the rocks, foaming and roaring in every direction, making any passage impossible. The rapids I had seen were small and trifling compared to the rocks and rapids below, not far away. The hills or mountains weren't like the ones I had seen before; they shoot straight up like the side of a tree. The mountains I passed were steep, containing white, brown, and low down, a gray hard stone that could create sparks. These stones were of various sizes, all sharp, and constantly slipping down. In many places, there was a bed of these stones sloping from the river bottom to the top of the mountains. The torrents of water after a rain carry immense numbers of these stones into the river. About half a mile below the last mentioned creek, another creek flows in. My guide informed me that our route was up this creek, which would save us a considerable detour of the river to the south. We continued on a well-trodden Indian path up this creek for about six miles and crossed over a ridge in a small valley that led us to the river. From there, my guide showed me the river stretching about 20 miles downstream and pointed out the difficulties ahead. We then returned to the last creek and camped about an hour after dark.
There my guide Shewed me a road from the N Which Came into the one I was in which he Said went to a large river which run to the north on which was a Nation he called Tushapass, he made a map of it
There my guide showed me a road from the north that connected to the one I was on, which he said led to a large river that flowed north, where a nation he called Tushapass was located. He made a map of it.
[Lewis, August 24, 1805]
Saturday August 24th 1805. As the Indians who were on their way down the Missouri had a number of spare hoses with them I thought it probable that I could obtain some of them and therefore desired the Cheif to speak to them and inform me whether they would trade. they gave no positive answer but requested to see the goods which I was willing to give in exchange. I now produced some battle axes which I had made at Fort Mandan with which they were much pleased. knives also seemed in great demand among them. I soon purchased three horses and a mule. for each horse I gave an ax a knife handkercheif and a little paint; & for the mule the addition of a knife a shirt handkercheif and a pair of legings; at this price which was quite double that given for the horses, the fellow who sold him made a merit of having bestoed me one of his mules. I consider this mule a great acquisition. These Indians soon told me that they had no more horses for sale and I directed the party to prepare to set out. I had now nine horses and a mule, and two which I had hired made twelve these I had loaded and the Indian women took the ballance of the baggage. I had given the Interpreter some articles with which to purchase a horse for the woman which he had obtained. at twelve Oclock we set out and passed the river below the forks, directing our rout towards the cove along the track formerly mentioned. most of the horses were heavily laden, and it appears to me that it will require at least 25 horses to convey our baggage along such roads as I expect we shall be obliged to pass in the mountains. I had now the inexpressible satisfaction to find myself once more under way with all my baggage and party. an Indian had the politeness to offer me one of his horses to ride which I accepted with cheerfullness as it enabled me to attend better to the march of the party. I had reached the lower part of the cove when an Indian rode up and informed me that one of my men was very sick and unable to come on. I directed the party to halt at a small run which falls into the creek on Lard. at the lower part of the Cove and rode back about 2 Miles where I found Wiser very ill with a fit of the cholic. I sent Sergt. Ordway who had remained with him for some water and gave him a doze of the essence of Peppermint and laudinum which in the course of half an hour so far recovered him that he was enabled to ride my horse and I proceeded on foot and rejoined the party. the sun was yet an hour high but the Indians who had for some time impatiently waited my return at length unloaded and turned out their horses and my party had followed there ex-ample. as it was so late and the Indians had prepared their camp for the night I thought it best to acquiess and determined also to remain. we had traveled only about six miles. after we encamped we had a slight shower of rain. Goodrich who is our principal fisherman caught several fine trout. Drewyer came to us late in the evening and had not killed anything. I gave the Indians who were absolutely engaged in transporting the baggage, a little corn as they had nothing to eat. I told Cameahwait that my stock of provision was too small to indulge all his people with provision and recommended it to him to advise such as were not assisting us with our baggage to go on to their camp to morrow and wait our arrival; which he did accordingly. Cameahwait literally translated is one who never walks. he told me that his nation had also given him another name by which he was signalized as a warrior which was Too-et'-te-con'-e or black gun. these people have many names in the course of their lives, particularly if they become distinguished characters. for it seems that every important event by which they happen to distinguish themselves intitles them to claim another name which is generally scelected by themselves and confirmed by the nation. those distinguishing acts are the killing and scalping an enemy, the killing a white bear, leading a party to war who happen to be successfull either in destroying their enemies or robing them of their horses, or individually stealing the horses of an enemy. these are considered acts of equal heroism among them, and that of killing an enemy without scalping him is considered of no importance; in fact the whole honour seems to be founded in the act of scalping, for if a man happens to slay a dozen of his enemies in action and others get the scalps or first lay their hand on the dead person the honor is lost to him who killed them and devolves on those who scalp or first touch them. Among the Shoshones, as well as all the Indians of America, bravery is esteemed the primary virtue; nor can any one become eminent among them who has not at some period of his life given proofs of his possessing this virtue. with them there can be no preferment without some warelike achievement, and so completely interwoven is this principle with the earliest Elements of thought that it will in my opinion prove a serious obstruction to the restoration of a general peace among the nations of the Missouri. while at Fort Mandan I was one day addressing some cheifs of the Minetares wo visited us and pointing out to them the advantages of a state of peace with their neighbours over that of war in which they were engaged. the Chiefs who had already geathered their havest of larals, and having forceably felt in many instances some of those inconveniences attending a state of war which I pointed out, readily agreed with me in opinon. a young fellow under the full impression of the Idea I have just suggested asked me if they were in a state of peace with all their neighhours what the nation would do for Cheifs?, and added that the cheifs were now oald and must shortly die and that the nation could not exist without cheifs. taking as granted that there could be no other mode devised for making Cheifs but that which custom had established through the medium of warlike acievements.
Saturday, August 24, 1805. The Indians traveling down the Missouri had several spare horses with them, so I thought it was likely that I could get some and asked the Chief to speak to them to see if they would trade. They didn't give a clear answer but wanted to see the goods I was willing to offer in exchange. I showed them some battle axes I made at Fort Mandan, which they liked a lot. Knives also seemed to be highly sought after by them. I quickly bought three horses and a mule. For each horse, I traded an axe, a knife, a handkerchief, and a little paint; for the mule, I added another knife, a shirt, a handkerchief, and a pair of leggings. At this price, which was about double what I paid for the horses, the guy who sold the mule acted like he was doing me a favor. I saw this mule as a great addition. The Indians soon told me they had no more horses for sale, so I instructed my party to prepare to set out. I had nine horses and a mule now, plus two that I had hired, making a total of twelve. I loaded them up, and the Indian women took care of the rest of the baggage. I had given the Interpreter some items to trade for a horse for the woman, which he got. At noon, we set out and crossed the river below the forks, heading towards the cove along the path I mentioned earlier. Most of the horses were heavily loaded, and I figured it would take at least 25 horses to carry our supplies on the kind of roads I expected we'd encounter in the mountains. I felt indescribable relief to be back on the move with all my gear and crew. An Indian kindly offered me one of his horses to ride, which I happily accepted since it helped me keep track of the party better. I had just reached the lower section of the cove when another Indian rode up to let me know one of my men was very sick and couldn't continue. I instructed the party to stop at a small stream that flows into the creek on the left at the lower part of the cove. I rode back about 2 miles to find Wiser very ill with colic. I sent Sergeant Ordway, who stayed with him, to fetch some water and gave Wiser a dose of peppermint essence and laudanum, which helped him recover enough in about half an hour to ride my horse while I walked back and rejoined the group. The sun was still an hour high, but the Indians had been waiting impatiently for my return. They eventually unloaded and turned out their horses, and my party followed their example. Since it was late and the Indians had set up their camp for the night, I decided it would be best to stay, even though we had only traveled about six miles. After we set up camp, we had a light rain shower. Goodrich, our main fisherman, caught several nice trout. Drewyer joined us later that evening and had not caught anything. I gave a little corn to the Indians who were busy carrying our stuff since they had nothing to eat. I told Cameahwait that my food supply was too limited to feed all his people and suggested he tell those who weren't helping us with the baggage to head to their camp to wait for us tomorrow, which he did. Cameahwait literally means "one who never walks." He told me his people also gave him another name that signified him as a warrior: Too-et'-te-con'-e, or black gun. These people have many names throughout their lives, especially if they become noted figures. It seems that every significant event that distinguishes them allows them to claim another name that is usually chosen by themselves and affirmed by the nation. These distinguished acts include killing and scalping an enemy, killing a white bear, leading a successful war party that either destroys their enemies or steals their horses, or individually stealing an enemy's horses. These acts are considered equally heroic by them, and killing an enemy without scalping is regarded as unimportant; in fact, all honor seems to come from the act of scalping. If a man kills a dozen enemies during a battle and others scalp or touch the bodies first, the honor goes to those who scalp or first touch the dead, not to the person who killed them. Among the Shoshones and all the Indians of America, bravery is seen as the top virtue; no one can rise in status unless they've shown proof of bravery at some point in their life. There is no advancement without some warlike achievement, and this principle is so deeply ingrained in their thinking that it will likely be a significant barrier to achieving lasting peace among the nations of the Missouri. While at Fort Mandan, I was talking to some Minetare chiefs who visited us, pointing out the benefits of being at peace with their neighbors instead of being at war. The chiefs, who had gathered their harvest, having experienced some of the drawbacks of war I mentioned, readily agreed with me. A young man, influenced by my argument, asked me what their nation would do for chiefs if they were at peace with all their neighbors. He noted that the chiefs were getting old and would soon die, and the nation couldn’t exist without them. He assumed that there was no other way to make chiefs except through the warlike achievements established by custom.
The few guns which the Shoshones have are reserved for war almost exclusively and the bow and arrows are used in hunting. I have seen a few skins among these people which have almost every appearance of the common sheep. they inform me that they finde this animals on the high mountains to the West and S. W. of them. it is about the size of the common sheep, the wool is reather shorter and more intermixed with long hairs particularly on the upper part of the neck. these skins have been so much woarn that I could not form a just Idea of the animal or it's colour. the Indians however inform me that it is white and that it's horns are lunated comprest twisted and bent backward as those of the common sheep. the texture of the skin appears to be that of the sheep. I am now perfectly convinced that the sheep as well as the Bighorn exist in these mountains.
The few guns that the Shoshones have are mostly saved for warfare, while they use bows and arrows for hunting. I’ve seen a few skins among these people that look a lot like those of common sheep. They tell me they find these animals on the high mountains to the west and southwest of them. They’re about the size of regular sheep, but their wool is shorter and mixed with longer hairs, especially on the upper part of the neck. These skins have been worn so much that I couldn't get a clear idea of the animal or its color. However, the Indians say that it is white and that its horns are crescent-shaped, compressed, twisted, and bent backward like those of common sheep. The texture of the skin seems to be like that of sheep. I am now completely convinced that both the sheep and the Bighorn live in these mountains.
The usual caparison of the Shoshone horse is a halter and saddle. the 1st consists either of a round plated or twisted cord of six or seven strands of buffaloe's hair, or a throng of raw hide made pliant by pounding and rubing. these cords of bufaloe's hair are about the size of a man's finger and remarkably strong. this is the kind of halter which is prefered by them. the halter of whatever it may be composed is always of great length and is never taken from the neck of the horse which they commonly use at any time. it is first attatched at one end about the neck of the horse with a knot that will not slip, it is then brought down to his under jaw and being passed through the mouth imbaces the under jaw and tonge in a simple noose formed by crossing the rope inderneath the jaw of the horse. this when mounted he draws up on the near side of the horse's neck and holds in the left hand, suffering it to trail at a great distance behind him sometimes the halter is attatched so far from the end that while the shorter end serves him to govern his horse, the other trails on the grond as before mentioned. they put their horses to their full speed with those cords trailing on the ground. when they turn out the horse to graze the noose is mearly loosed from his mouth. the saddle is made of wood and covered with raw hide which holds the parts very firmly together. it is made like the pack saddles in uce among the French and Spaniards. it consists of two flat thin boards which fit the sides of the horses back, and are held frirm by two peices which are united to them behind and before on the outer side and which rise to a considerable hight terminating sometimes in flat horizontal points extending outwards, and alwas in an accute angle or short bend underneath the upper part of these peices. a peice of buffaloe's skin with the hair on, is usually put underneath the saddle; and very seldom any covering on the saddle. stirrups when used are made of wood and covered with leather. these are generally used by the elderly men and women; the young men scarcely ever use anything more than a small pad of dressed leather stuffed with hair, which is confined with a leather thong passing arond the body of the horse in the manner of a girth. they frequently paint their favorite horses, and cut their ears in various shapes. they also decorate their mains and tails, which they never draw or trim, with the feathers of birds, and sometimes suspend at the breast of the horse the finest ornaments they possess. the Spanish bridle is prefered by them when they can obtain them, but they never dispence with the cord about the neck of the horse, which serves them to take him with more ease when he is runing at large. They are excellent horsemen and extreemly expert in casting the cord about the neck of a horse. the horses that have been habituated to be taken with the cord in this way, however wild they may appear at first, surrender the moment they feel the cord about their necks.—There are no horses in this quarter which can with propriety be termed wild. there are some few which have been left by the indians at large for so great a length of time that they have become shye, but they all shew marks of having been in possession of man. such is that one which Capt. Clark saw just below the three forks of the Missouri, and one other which I saw on the Missouri below the entrance of the Mussle shell river.—Capt. Clark set out very early this morning on his return, he traveled down the creek to it's entrance by the same Indian track he had ascended it; at the river he marked his name on a pine tree, then ascended to the bottom above the second creek, and brekfasted on burries, which occupyed them about one hour. he now retraced his former track and joined the party where he had left them at 4 P.M. on his way Capt. C. fell from a rock and injured one of his legs very much. the party during his absence had killed a few pheasants and caught a few small fish on which together with haws and Serviceburies they had subsisted. they had also killed one cock of the Mountains Capt. Clark now wrote me a discription of the river and country, and stated our prospects by this rout as they have been heretofore mentioned and dispatched Colter on horseback with orders to loose no time reaching me. he set out late with the party continued his rout about two miles and encamped. Capt Clark had seen some trees which would make small canoes but all of them some distance below the Indian Caps which he passed at the entrance of fish Creek.
The typical gear for a Shoshone horse includes a halter and a saddle. The halter is usually made from either a round braided or twisted cord of six or seven strands of buffalo hair or a strip of rawhide that has been softened through pounding and rubbing. These buffalo hair cords are about the thickness of a man's finger and are incredibly strong. This is their preferred type of halter. Regardless of its material, the halter is always quite long and is not removed from the horse's neck when they are in use. One end is securely tied around the horse's neck with a knot that won’t slip, then it comes down to the jaw, passes through the mouth, and forms a simple noose around the underneath of the jaw. When mounted, the rider pulls up on the side of the horse's neck and holds it in their left hand, allowing it to trail behind at a substantial distance. Sometimes, the halter is attached so far from one end that the shorter part is used to control the horse, while the other drags along the ground. They push their horses to full speed with the cords trailing behind. When it’s time for the horse to graze, they simply loosen the noose from its mouth. The saddle is made of wood and covered with rawhide, which keeps everything tightly together. It resembles the pack saddles used by the French and Spaniards. It consists of two flat, thin boards that fit the horse's back and are secured by two pieces attached at the front and back on the outer side, which rise to a significant height, sometimes ending in flat horizontal points that extend outward, and always at an acute angle or short bend beneath the upper part of these pieces. A piece of buffalo skin with the hair on is usually placed under the saddle; they rarely use any cover on the saddle itself. Stirrups, when used, are made of wood and covered with leather. These are generally used by older men and women; young men typically use just a small pad of tanned leather stuffed with hair, secured by a leather thong wrapped around the horse's body like a girth. They often paint their favorite horses and cut their ears into various shapes. They also adorn their manes and tails, which are never cut or trimmed, with bird feathers and sometimes hang their finest ornaments around the horse's neck. They prefer Spanish bridles when available, but they never go without the cord around the horse’s neck, which helps them catch the animal more easily when it’s running loose. They are exceptional horsemen and highly skilled in throwing the cord around a horse's neck. Horses that have been trained to be caught this way—no matter how wild they may seem at first—submissively surrender once they feel the cord around their necks. There are no horses in this region that can truly be considered wild. There are a few that have been unreleased by the Indians for so long that they have become skittish, but they all show signs of having once belonged to humans. One such horse was seen by Capt. Clark just below the three forks of the Missouri, and another that I spotted on the Missouri below where the Mussel Shell River enters. Capt. Clark left early this morning on his way back; he traveled down the creek using the same Indian path he had followed up. At the river, he marked his name on a pine tree, then went up to the area above the second creek, where he had breakfast on berries, which took about an hour. He retraced his steps and rejoined the group where he had left them at 4 P.M. During his absence, the group killed a few pheasants and caught some small fish, which, along with haws and serviceberries, kept them going. They also caught one male mountain grouse. Capt. Clark wrote me a description of the river and the surrounding area and detailed our prospects along this route as previously mentioned, sending Colter off on horseback with orders to reach me without delay. He set out late, continued his route for about two miles, and set up camp. Capt. Clark had seen some trees that could be made into small canoes, but all were located a distance downstream from the Indian Caps he passed at the Fish Creek entrance.
[Clark, August 24, 1805]
August 24th Satturday 1805 Set out verry early this morning on my return passed down the Creek at the mouth marked my name on a pine Tree, proceed on to the bottom above the Creek & Brackfast on buries & delayed 1 hour, then proceed on up the river by the Same rout we decended to the place I left my party where we arrived at 4 oClock, (I Sliped & bruised my leg verry much on a rock) the party had killed Several phesents and Cought a fiew Small fish on which they had Subsisted in my absence. also a heath hen, near the Size of a Small turkey.
August 24th, Saturday, 1805. Set out very early this morning on my way back. I passed down the creek at the mouth and carved my name on a pine tree, then continued to the bottom above the creek and had breakfast on berries, delaying for an hour. After that, I proceeded up the river by the same route we came down until I reached the spot where I left my party, arriving at 4 o'clock. (I slipped and bruised my leg badly on a rock.) The party had killed several pheasants and caught a few small fish, which they had eaten while I was away, as well as a heath hen about the size of a small turkey.
I wrote a letter to Capt Lewis informing him of the prospects before us and information recved of my guide which I thought favourable &c. & Stating two plans one of which for us to pursue &c. and despatched one man & horse and directed the party to get ready to march back, every man appeared disheartened from the prospects of the river, and nothing to eate, I Set out late and Camped 2 miles above, nothing to eate but Choke Cherries & red haws which act in different ways So as to make us Sick, dew verry heavy, my beding wet in passing around a rock the horses were obliged to go deep into the water.
I wrote a letter to Captain Lewis letting him know about the opportunities ahead of us and the information I received about my guide, which I thought was promising, etc. I mentioned two plans, one of which we should follow, and sent one man and a horse to deliver the message. I instructed the group to prepare to march back, but everyone seemed disheartened by the state of the river and the lack of food. I set out late and camped two miles upstream. We had nothing to eat except choke cherries and red haws, which affected us in different ways and made us feel sick. The dew was very heavy, and my bedding got wet while we were moving around a rock, forcing the horses to go deep into the water.
The plan I stated to Capt Lewis if he agrees with me we shall adopt is to procure as many horses (one for each man) if possible and to hire my present guide who I sent on to him to interegate thro the Intprtr. and proceed on by land to Some navagable part of the Columbia River, or to the Ocean, depending on what provisions we can procure by the gun aded to the Small Stock we have on hand depending on our horses as the last resort.
The plan I shared with Captain Lewis, if he agrees with me, is to get as many horses as possible (one for each man) and to hire my current guide, who I sent on ahead to speak with him through the interpreter. We will then travel by land to a navigable part of the Columbia River or the ocean, depending on what supplies we can gather with the gun, along with the small stock we have, relying on our horses as the last option.
a second plan to divide the party one part to attempt this deficuet river with what provisions we had, and the remaindr to pass by Land on hose back Depending on our gun &c for Provisions &c. and come together occasionally on the river.
a second plan to split the group: one part would try to navigate this difficult river with the supplies we had, while the rest would travel overland on horseback. We relied on our guns and so on for supplies, and we planned to meet up occasionally along the river.
the 1s of which I would be most pleased with &c.
the 1s that I would be most happy with &c.
I saw Several trees which would make Small Canoes and by putting 2 together would make a Siseable one, all below the last Indian Camp Several miles
I saw several trees that could be made into small canoes, and by putting two together, they would create a decent-sized one, all below the last Indian camp several miles away.
[Lewis, August 25, 1805]
Sunday August 25th 1805. This morning loaded our horses and set out a little after sunrise; a few only of the Indians unengaged in assisting us went on as I had yesterday proposed to the Cheif. the others flanked us on each side and started some Antelope which they pursued for several hours but killed none of them. we proceeded within 2 Ms. of the narrow pass or seven miles from our camp of last evening and halted for dinner. Our hunters joined us at noon with three deer the greater part of which I gave the indians. sometime after we had halted, Charbono mentioned to me with apparent unconcern that he expected to meet all the Indians from the camp on the Columbia tomorrow on their way to the Missouri. allarmed at this information I asked why he expected to meet them. he then informed me that the 1st Cheif had dispatched some of his young men this morning to this camp requesting the Indians to meet them tomorrow and that himself and those with him would go on with them down the Missouri, and consequently leave me and my baggage on the mountain or thereabouts. I was out of patience with the folly of Charbono who had not sufficient sagacity to see the consequencies which would inevitably flow from such a movement of the indians, and altho he had been in possession of this information since early in the morning when it had been communicated to him by his Indian woman yet he never mentioned it untill the after noon. I could not forbear speaking to him with some degree of asperity on this occasion. I saw that there was no time to be lost in having those orders countermanded, or that we should not in all probability obtain any more horses or even get my baggage to the waters of the Columbia. I therefore Called the three Cheifs together and having smoked a pipe with them, I asked them if they were men of their words, and whether I could depent on the promises they had made me; they readily answered in the affermative; I then asked them if they had not promised to assist me with my baggage to their camp on the other side of the mountains, or to the place at which Capt. Clark might build the canoes, should I wish it. they acknowledged that they had. I then asked them why they had requested their people on the other side of the mountain to meet them tomorrow on the mountain where there would be no possibility of our remaining together for the purpose of trading for their horses as they had also promised. that if they had not promised to have given me their assistance in transporting my baggage to the waters on the other side of the mountain that I should not have attempted to pass the mountains but would have returned down the river and that in that case they would never have seen anymore white men in their country. that if they wished the white men to be their friends and to assist them against their enemies by furnishing them with arms and keeping their enemies from attacking them that they must never promis us anything which they did not mean to perform. that when I had first seen them they had doubted what I told them about the arrival of the party of whitemen in canoes, that they had been convinced that what I told them on that occasion was true, why then would they doubt what I said on any other point. I told them that they had witnessed my liberality in dividing the meat which my hunters killed with them; and that I should continue to give such of them as assisted me a part of whatever we had ourselves to eat. and finally concluded by telling them if they intended to keep the promisses they had made me to dispatch one of their young men immediately with orders to their people to remain where they were untill our arrival. the two inferior cheifs said that they wished to assist me and be as good as their word, and that they had not sent for their people, that it was the first Chief who had done so, and they did not approve of the measure. Cameahwait remained silent for some time, at length he told me that he knew he had done wrong but that he had been induced to that measure from seeing all his people hungary, but as he had promised to give me his assistance he would not in future be worse than his word. I then desired him to send immediately and countermand his orders; acordingly a young man was sent for this purpose and I gave him a handkerchief to engage him in my interest. this matter being arranged to my satisfaction I called all the women and men together who had been assisting me in the transportation of the baggage and gave them a billet for each horse which they had imployed in that service and informed them when we arrived at the plaice where we should finally halt on the river I would take the billet back and give them merchandize for it. every one appeared now satisfyed and when I ordered the horses loaded for our departure the Indians were more than usually allert. we continued our march untill late in the evening and encamped at the upper part of the cove where the creek enters the mountains; here our hunters joined us with another deer which they had killed, this I gave to the women and Children, and for my own part remained supperless. I observed considerable quantities of wild onions in the bottom lands of this cove. I also saw several large hares and many of the cock of the plains.
Sunday, August 25th, 1805. This morning, we packed our horses and set out shortly after sunrise. A few of the Indians not helping us went on, as I had suggested to the Chief yesterday. The others flanked us on each side and started chasing some antelope, but they didn't catch any. We moved within 2 miles of the narrow pass, about seven miles from our camp the previous evening, and stopped for lunch. Our hunters rejoined us at noon with three deer, most of which I gave to the Indians. Some time after we had stopped, Charbono casually mentioned that he expected to meet all the Indians from the camp on the Columbia tomorrow as they traveled to Missouri. Alarmed by this information, I asked why he expected to meet them. He then informed me that the first Chief had sent some of his young men this morning to this camp, asking the Indians to meet them tomorrow, and that he and those with him would continue down the Missouri, which meant leaving me and my gear on the mountain or nearby. I couldn’t hold back my frustration with Charbono, who didn’t have the insight to see the consequences that would inevitably come from such a move by the Indians. Although he had known about this since early that morning, when his Indian woman had told him, he didn’t mention it until the afternoon. I couldn’t help but speak to him a bit harshly on this occasion. I realized there was no time to waste in having those orders reversed, or we probably wouldn’t get any more horses or even manage to get my baggage to the waters of the Columbia. Therefore, I called the three Chiefs together, and after smoking a pipe with them, I asked if they were men of their word and whether I could rely on the promises they had made me; they quickly confirmed that I could. I then asked if they hadn’t promised to help me with my baggage to their camp on the other side of the mountains, or to the place where Captain Clark might build the canoes, if I wished it. They acknowledged that they had. I then asked them why they had instructed their people on the other side of the mountain to meet them tomorrow, where we wouldn’t be able to stay together to trade for their horses as they had also promised. I pointed out that if they hadn’t guaranteed their help in transporting my baggage to the waters on the other side of the mountain, I wouldn’t have tried to cross the mountains but would have returned down the river, and in that case, they would never have seen any more white men in their land. I told them that if they wanted the white men to be their friends and help them against their enemies by supplying them with arms and preventing their enemies from attacking them, they must never promise us anything they didn’t intend to follow through on. I reminded them that when I first saw them, they were skeptical of what I told them about the arrival of the party of white men in canoes; they became convinced that what I said then was true—so why would they doubt anything else I said? I pointed out that they had seen my generosity in sharing the meat from my hunters with them, and I would keep giving a portion of whatever we had to eat to those who helped me. I concluded by telling them that if they intended to keep their promises to me, they should send one of their young men immediately with instructions to their people to stay where they were until we arrived. The two lesser chiefs said they wanted to assist me and be true to their word and that it was the first Chief who sent for their people, and they disagreed with that decision. Cameahwait stayed silent for a while, but eventually told me that he knew he had made a mistake, but he had been driven to that decision by seeing all his people hungry. However, since he had promised to help me, he wouldn’t be untrustworthy in the future. I then asked him to send someone right away to cancel his orders; a young man was sent for this purpose, and I gave him a handkerchief to help win him over to my side. Once this matter was resolved to my satisfaction, I gathered all the women and men who had been helping me with transporting the baggage and gave each of them a slip for every horse they had used in that service. I informed them that when we reached the place where we would finally stop on the river, I would take the slips back and give them goods in return. Everyone seemed pleased, and when I ordered the horses to be loaded for our departure, the Indians were extra alert. We continued our journey until late in the evening and camped at the upper part of the cove where the creek enters the mountains. Here, our hunters rejoined us with another deer they had killed; I gave it to the women and children, and for myself, I went without dinner. I noticed a considerable amount of wild onions in the bottom lands of this cove, and I also saw several large hares and many prairie chickens.
Capt. Clark set out early this morning and continued his rout to the indian camp at the entrance of fish Creek; here he halted about an hour; the indians gave himself and party some boiled salmon and hurries. these people appeared extreemly hospitable tho poor and dirty in the extreem. he still pursued the track up the river by which he had decended and in the evening arrived at the bluff on the river where he had encamped on the 21st Inst. it was late in the evening before he reached this place. they formed their camp, and Capt. C. sent them in different directions to hunt and fish. some little time after they halted a party of Indians passed by on their way down the river, consisting of a man a woman and several boys; from these people the guide obtained 2 salmon which together with some small fish they caught and a beaver which Shannon killed furnished them with a plentifull supper. the pine grows pretty abundantly high up on the sides of the mountains on the opposite side of the river. one of the hunters saw a large herd of Elk on the opposite side of the river in the edge of the timbered land.—Winsor was taken very sick today and detained Capt C. very much on his march. three hunters whom he had sent on before him this morning joined him in the evening having killed nothing; they saw only one deer.
Capt. Clark set out early this morning and continued his route to the Indian camp at the entrance of Fish Creek; he stopped here for about an hour. The Indians offered him and his party some boiled salmon and berries. These people seemed extremely hospitable, though they were poor and very dirty. He continued along the track up the river by which he had come down and in the evening arrived at the bluff by the river where he had camped on the 21st. It was late in the evening when he got to this spot. They set up their camp, and Capt. C. sent them in different directions to hunt and fish. A little while after they stopped, a group of Indians passed by on their way down the river, consisting of a man, a woman, and several boys; from these people, the guide got 2 salmon, which, along with some small fish they caught and a beaver that Shannon killed, provided them with a plentiful supper. Pines grow quite abundantly high up on the mountains on the other side of the river. One of the hunters spotted a large herd of elk on the opposite side, at the edge of the forest. Winsor got really sick today and held Capt. C. back a lot on his march. Three hunters he had sent ahead this morning joined him in the evening, having killed nothing; they saw only one deer.
The course and the distances, of Capt. Clark's rout down this branch of the Columbia below this bluff, commencing opposite to an Island, are as follow.
The route and distances of Captain Clark's journey down this part of the Columbia, below this bluff and starting across from an island, are as follows.
This morning while passing through the Shoshone cove Frazier fired his musquet at some ducks in a little pond at the distance of about 60 yards from me; the ball rebounded from the water and pased within a very few feet of me. near the upper part of this cove the Shoshonees suffered a very severe defeat by the Minnetares about six years since. this part of the cove on the N. E. side of the Creek has lately been birned by the Indians as a signal on some occasion.
This morning, as I was walking through Shoshone Cove, Frazier shot his musket at some ducks in a small pond about 60 yards away from me; the bullet bounced off the water and passed just a few feet from me. Near the upper part of this cove, the Shoshone people suffered a terrible defeat by the Minnetares about six years ago. This area of the cove on the northeast side of the creek has recently been burned by the Indians as a signal for some occasion.
[Clark, August 25, 1805]
August 25th Sunday 1805 Set out verry early and halted one hour at the Indian Camp, they were kind gave us all a little boiled Sarnmon & dried buries to eate, abt. half as much as I could eate, those people are kind with what they have but excessive pore & Durtey.—we proceeded on over the mountains we had before passed to the Bluff we Encamped at on the 21s instant where we arrived late and turned out to hunt & fish, Cought Several Small fish, a party of Squars & one man with Several boys going down to guathe berries below, my guide got two Sammon from this party (which made about half a Supper for the party), after Dark Shannon came in with a beaver which the Party suped on Sumptiously—one man verry Sick to day which detained us verry much I had three hunters out all day, they saw one Deer, killed nothing. one of the Party Saw 9 Elk on a Mountain to our right assending, amongst the Pine timber which is thick on that side
August 25th, Sunday, 1805 We set out very early and stopped for an hour at the Indian camp. They were kind enough to give us a little boiled salmon and dried berries to eat, about half as much as I could eat. Those people are generous with what they have but are extremely poor and dirty. We continued on over the mountains that we had previously crossed to the bluff where we camped on the 21st. We arrived late and went out to hunt and fish, catching several small fish. A group of women and one man with several boys were heading down to gather berries below. My guide got two salmon from this group, which made about half a supper for us. After dark, Shannon came in with a beaver, which the group enjoyed for a luxurious meal. One man was very sick today, which held us back quite a bit. I had three hunters out all day; they saw one deer but didn’t kill anything. One of the party spotted nine elk on a mountain to our right, climbing among the thick pine timber on that side.
[Lewis, August 26, 1805]
Monday August 26th 1805. This morning was excessively cold; there was ice on the vessels of water which stood exposed to the air nearly a quarter of an inch thick. we collected our horses and set out at sunrise. we soon arrived at the extreem source of the Missouri; here I halted a few minutes, the men drank of the water and consoled themselves with the idea of having at length arrived at this long wished for point. from hence we proceeded to a fine spring on the side of the mountain where I had lain the evening before I first arrived at the Shoshone Camp. here I halted to dine and graize our horses, there being fine green grass on that part of the hillside which was moistened by the water of the spring while the grass on the other parts was perfectly dry and parched with the sun. I directed a pint of corn to be given each Indian who was engaged in transporting our baggage and about the same quantity to each of the men which they parched pounded and made into supe. one of the women who had been assisting in the transportation of the baggage halted at a little run about a mile behind us, and sent on the two pack horses which she had been conducting by one of her female friends. I enquired of Cameahwait the cause of her detention, and was informed by him in an unconcerned manner that she had halted to bring fourth a child and would soon overtake us; in about an hour the woman arrived with her newborn babe and passed us on her way to the camp apparently as well as she ever was. It appears to me that the facility and ease with which the women of the aborigines of North America bring fourth their children is reather a gift of nature than depending as some have supposed on the habitude of carrying heavy burthens on their backs while in a state of pregnancy. if a pure and dry air, an elivated and cold country is unfavourable to childbirth, we might expect every difficult incident to that operation of nature in this part of the continent; again as the snake Indians possess an abundance of horses, their women are seldom compelled like those in other parts of the continent to carry burthens on their backs, yet they have their children with equal convenience, and it is a rare occurrence for any of them to experience difficulty in childbirth. I have been several times informed by those who were conversent with the fact, that the indian women who are pregnant by whitemen experience more difficulty in childbirth than when pregnant by an Indian. if this be true it would go far in suport of the opinion I have advanced.
Monday, August 26th, 1805. This morning was extremely cold; there was ice on the containers of water left out in the open, nearly a quarter of an inch thick. We gathered our horses and set off at sunrise. We soon reached the farthest source of the Missouri; I paused for a few minutes, and the men drank the water, comforted by the thought that they had finally arrived at this long-desired destination. From there, we continued to a beautiful spring on the mountainside where I had rested the evening before I first arrived at the Shoshone Camp. I stopped to have lunch and let our horses graze, as there was nice green grass on that part of the hill that was moistened by the water from the spring, while the grass in other areas was dry and sun-scorched. I ordered a pint of corn to be given to each Indian who was helping carry our supplies and about the same amount to each of the men, which they roasted, ground, and made into soup. One of the women who had been helping with the baggage stopped at a small stream about a mile behind us and sent the two pack horses she had been guiding with one of her female friends. I asked Cameahwait why she was delayed, and he casually told me that she had stopped to give birth to a child and would soon catch up with us; about an hour later, the woman arrived with her newborn baby and passed us on her way to the camp, seemingly just as well as she ever was. It seems to me that the ease with which Indigenous women in North America give birth is more of a natural gift than something tied to carrying heavy loads on their backs during pregnancy, as some have suggested. If a pure, dry air and an elevated, cold environment are unfriendly to childbirth, we would expect frequent complications during this natural process in this part of the continent. Moreover, since the Snake Indians have plenty of horses, their women are rarely forced, unlike those in other regions, to carry burdens on their backs; yet they deliver their children with equal ease, and it's uncommon for them to face difficulties during childbirth. I've been told several times by those familiar with the facts that Indian women pregnant by white men experience more challenges in childbirth than when pregnant by Indian men. If this is true, it strongly supports the opinion I've expressed.
the tops of the high and irregular mountains which present themselves to our view on the opposite side of this branch of the Columbia are yet perfectly covered with snow; the air which proceeds from those mountains has an agreeable coolness and renders these parched and South hillsides much more supportable at this time of the day it being now about noon. I observe the indian women collecting the root of a speceis of fennel which grows in the moist grounds and feeding their poor starved children; it is really distressing to witness the situation of those poor wretches. the radix of this plant is of the knob kind, of a long ovate form terminating in a single radicle, the whole bing about 3 or four inches in length and the thickest part about the size of a man's little finger. it is white firm and crisp in it's present state, when dryed and pounded it makes a fine white meal; the flavor of this root is not unlike that of annisseed but not so pungent; the stem rises to the hight of 3 or four feet is jointed smooth and cilindric; from r to 4 of those knobed roots are attatched to the base of this stem. the leaf is sheathing sessile, & pultipartite, the divisions long and narrow; the whole is of a deep green. it is now in blame; the flowers are numerous, small, petals white, and are of the umbellaferous kind. several small peduncles put forth from the main stock one at each joint above the sheathing leaf. it has no root leaves. the root of the present year declines when the seeds have been matured and the succeeding spring other roots of a similar kind put fourth from the little knot which unites the roots and stem and grow and decline with the stem as before mentioned. The sunflower is very abundant near the watercourses the seeds of this plant are now rip and the natives collect them in considerable quantities and reduce them to meal by pounding and rubing them between smooth stones. this meal is a favorite food their manner of using it has been beforementiond. after dinner we continued our rout towards the village. on our near approach we were met by a number of young men on horseback. Cameahwait requested that we would discharge our guns when we arrived in sight of the Village, accordingly when I arrived on an eminence above the village in the plain I drew up the party at open order in a single rank and gave them a runing fire discharging two rounds. they appeared much gratifyed with this exhibition. we then proceeded to the village or encampment of brush lodges 32 in number. we were conducted to a large lodge which had been prepared for me in the center of their encampmerit which was situated in a beautifull level smooth and extensive bottom near the river about 3 miles above the place I had first found them encamped. here we arrived at 6 in the evening arranged our baggage near my tent and placed those of the men on either side of the baggage facing outwards. I found Colter here who had just arrived with a letter from Capt. Clark in which Capt. C. had given me an account of his peregrination and the description of the river and country as before detailed from this view of the subject I found it a folly to think of attemping to decend this river in canoes and therefore to commence the purchase of horses in the morning from the indians in order to carry into execution the design we had formed of passing the rocky Mountains. I now informed Cameahwait of my intended expedition overland to the great river which lay in the plains beyond the mountains and told him that I wished to purchase 20 horses of himself and his people to convey our baggage. he observed that the Minnetares had stolen a great number of their horses this spring but hoped his people would spear me the number I wished. I also asked a guide, he observed that he had no doubt but the old man who was with Capt. C. would accompany us if we wished him and that he was better informed of the country than any of them. matters being thus far arranged I directed the fiddle to be played and the party danced very merily much to the amusement and gratification of the natives, though I must confess that the state of my own mind at this moment did not well accord with the prevailing mirth as I somewhat feared that the caprice of the indians might suddenly induce them to withhold their horses from us without which my hopes of prosicuting my voyage to advantage was lost; however I determined to keep the indians in a good humour if possible, and to loose no time in obtaining the necessary number of horses. I directed the hunters to turn out early in the morning and indeavor to obtain some meat. I had nothing but a little parched corn to eat this evening.
The tops of the tall, uneven mountains visible across this part of the Columbia are still completely covered with snow. The cool air coming from those mountains makes the dry, southern hillsides much more bearable at around noon. I can see the Native American women gathering the roots of a type of fennel that grows in the moist ground and feeding their hungry, starving children; it’s truly heartbreaking to see the plight of those poor people. The root of this plant is knobby and long, oval-shaped, ending in a single root, measuring about three to four inches long, with the thickest part the size of a man's little finger. It is white, firm, and crisp in its current state, and when dried and ground, it produces a fine white meal. The flavor of this root is similar to anise but not as strong; the stem grows to about three or four feet tall, is smooth and cylindrical, and has three to four of those knobby roots attached at the base. The leaves are sheathing, attached directly to the stem, and long and narrow, all a deep green. It is currently blooming; the flowers are small, numerous, with white petals and have an umbrella shape. Several small stems emerge from the main stalk, one at each joint just above the sheathing leaf. There are no leaves at the root. The root from this year wilts when the seeds have matured, and the following spring, new roots of a similar type sprout from the small knot connecting the roots and stem, growing and wilting as previously mentioned. The sunflower is very common near the waterways; its seeds are now ripe, and the locals gather them in large amounts, turning them into meal by grinding and rubbing them between smooth stones. This meal is a favored food, and I’ve mentioned how they use it before. After lunch, we continued on our way to the village. As we got close, we were met by several young men on horseback. Cameahwait asked us to fire our guns when we were seen by the village, so when I got to a rise above the village on the plain, I lined up the party in an open formation and gave them a running fire, discharging two rounds. They seemed very pleased with this display. We then moved on to the village, which consisted of 32 brush lodges. We were led to a large lodge that had been prepared for me in the center of their campsite, located in a beautiful, smooth, and expansive flat area near the river, about three miles upstream from where I had first found them camped. We arrived at 6 PM, arranged our gear near my tent, and set the men’s gear on either side of our supplies, facing outward. I found Colter there, who had just arrived with a letter from Capt. Clark detailing his travels and describing the river and region as previously mentioned. From this information, I realized it would be pointless to attempt to go down this river in canoes, so I planned to start buying horses from the Indians in the morning to execute our plan of crossing the Rocky Mountains. I informed Cameahwait of my intention to travel overland to the great river located in the plains beyond the mountains and told him that I wanted to buy 20 horses from him and his people to transport our baggage. He mentioned that the Minnetares had stolen many of their horses this spring but hoped his people could spare the number I needed. I also asked for a guide; he said he was sure the old man who traveled with Capt. Clark would join us if we wanted him and that he knew the area better than anyone else. With those issues settled, I instructed the fiddler to play, and the party danced merrily, much to the enjoyment of the locals, though I must admit that my own mood didn’t quite match the cheerful atmosphere, as I worried that the whims of the Indians might lead them to suddenly refuse to provide us with horses, which would ruin my hopes of successfully continuing my journey. Still, I resolved to keep the Indians in a good mood if possible and to waste no time securing the horses we needed. I directed the hunters to go out early the next morning and try to get some meat. For dinner tonight, I had nothing but a little roasted corn.
This morning Capt. C. and party
This morning, Captain C. and the team
[Clark, August 26, 1805]
August 26th Monday 1805 a fine morning Despatched three men a head to hunt, our horses missing Sent out my guide and four men to hunt them, which detained me untill 9 oClock a.m. at which time I Set out and proceeded on by the way of the forks to the Indian Camps at the first were not one mouthfull to eate untill night as our hunters could kill nothing and I could See & catch no fish except a few Small ones. The Indians gave us 2 Sammon boiled which I gave to the men, one of my men Shot a Sammon in the river about Sunset those fish gave us a Supper. all the Camp flocked about me untill I went to Sleep—and I beleve if they had a Sufficency to eate themselves and any to Spare they would be liberal of it I derected the men to mend their Mockessons to night and turn out in the morning early to hunt Deer fish birds &c. &c. Saw great numbers of the large Black grass hopper. Some bars which were verry wild, but few Birds. a number of ground Lizards; Some fiew Pigions
August 26th, Monday, 1805: It was a nice morning. I sent three men ahead to hunt because our horses were missing. I sent out my guide and four men to search for them, which delayed me until 9 o’clock a.m. At that time, I set out and went to the Indian camps via the forks. At the first camp, there wasn’t a single bite to eat until night since our hunters couldn’t catch anything, and I couldn’t see or catch any fish except for a few small ones. The Indians gave us two boiled salmon, which I shared with the men. One of my guys shot a salmon in the river around sunset, and those fish provided our supper. The entire camp gathered around me until I went to sleep—and I believe that if they had enough food for themselves and a little extra, they would have shared it generously. I instructed the men to repair their moccasins tonight and to head out early in the morning to hunt deer, fish, birds, etc. I saw a lot of large black grasshoppers, some very wild bears, but few birds, and several ground lizards; there were also a few pigeons.
[Clark, August 27, 1805]
August 27th Tuesday 1805 Some frost this morning every Man except one, out hunting, a young man Came from the upper Village & informed me that Capt Lewis would join me abt. 12 oClock to day. one man killed a Small Sammon, and the Indians gave me another which afforded us a Sleight brackfast. Those Pore people are here depending on what fish They Can Catch, without anything else to depend on; and appere Contented, my party hourly Complaining of their retched Situation and doubts of Starveing in a Countrey where no game of any kind except a fiew fish can be found, an Indian brough in to the Camp 5 Sammon, two of which I purchased which afforded us a Supper.
August 27th, Tuesday, 1805 There was some frost this morning. Everyone but one man went out hunting. A young man came from the upper village and told me that Captain Lewis would join me around 12 o'clock today. One man caught a small salmon, and the Indians gave me another, which gave us a light breakfast. Those poor people are here relying on whatever fish they can catch, with nothing else to depend on, and they seem content. My group is constantly complaining about their miserable situation and worrying about starving in a country where there’s hardly any game except a few fish. An Indian brought 5 salmon to the camp, two of which I bought, providing us with dinner.
[Clark, August 28, 1805]
August 28th Wednesday 1805 a frost this morning. The Inds. Cought out of their traps Several Sammon and gave us two, I purchased two others which we made last us to day. Several a Camp of about 40 Indians came from the West fork and passed up to day, nothing killed by my party with every exertion in all places where game probably might be found. I dispatched one man to the upper camps to enquire if Cap. Lewis was comeing &c. he returned after night with a letter from Capt. Lewis informing me of his Situation at the upper Village, and had precured 22 horses for our rout through by land on the plan which I had preposed in which he agreed with me in; and requsted me to ride up and get the horses the Indian informed him they had reserved for me &c. I purchased Some fish roe of those pore but kind people with whome I am Encamped for which I gave three Small fish hooks, the use of which they readily proseved, one Indian out all day & killed only one Sammon with his gig; my hunters killed nothing, I had three pack Saddles made to day for our horses which I expected Capt Lewis would purchase &c. Those Sammon which I live on at present are pleasent eateing, not with standing they weaken me verry fast and my flesh I find is declineing
August 28th, Wednesday, 1805: There was a frost this morning. The Indians caught several salmon out of their traps and gave us two. I bought two more, which we made last throughout the day. A camp of about 40 Indians came from the West Fork and passed by today; my group didn’t manage to kill anything despite putting in a lot of effort in areas where we thought game might be found. I sent one man to the upper camps to check if Captain Lewis was coming, and he returned after dark with a letter from Captain Lewis updating me on his situation at the upper village. He had secured 22 horses for our planned overland route, which I had proposed and he agreed with. He asked me to ride up and get the horses that the Indians said they had reserved for me. I bought some fish roe from those poor but friendly people I’m camped with, giving them three small fish hooks, which they quickly used. One Indian was out all day and only killed one salmon with his spear; my hunters didn't get anything. I had three pack saddles made today for our horses, which I expected Captain Lewis would purchase. The salmon I’m eating now is pleasant, but it weakens me quickly, and I can tell my strength is declining.
[Clark, August 29, 1805]
August 29th Thursday 1805 a Cold morning Some frost. the Wind from the South, I left our baggage in possession of 2 men and proceeded on up to join Capt Lewis at the upper Village of Snake Indians where I arrived at 1 oClock found him much engaged in Counceling and attempting to purchase a fiew more horses. I Spoke to the Indians on various Subjects endeavoring to impress on theire minds the advantaje it would be to them for to Sell us horses and expedite the our journey the nearest and best way possibly that we might return as Soon as possible and winter with them at Some place where there was plenty of buffalow,—our wish is to get a horse for each man to Carry our baggage and for Some of the men to ride occasionally, The horses are handsom and much acustomed to be changed as to their Parsture; we cannot Calculate on their carrying large loads & feed on the Grass which we may Calculate on finding in the Mountain Thro which we may expect to pass on our rout made Some Selestial observations, the Lard. of this Part the Columbia River is ____ North. Longtd. ____ W
August 29th, Thursday, 1805. It was a cold morning with some frost. The wind was coming from the south. I left our baggage with two men and went on to meet Captain Lewis at the upper village of the Snake Indians, where I arrived at 1 o'clock. I found him busy in discussions and trying to buy a few more horses. I spoke with the Indians about various topics, trying to make them understand the benefits of selling us horses to speed up our journey in the best and quickest way possible so that we could return and spend the winter with them at a place with plenty of buffalo. Our goal is to get a horse for each man to carry our baggage, and for some of the men to ride occasionally. The horses are beautiful and well accustomed to changes in their pastures. We can’t count on them carrying heavy loads while feeding on the grass we expect to find in the mountains we’ll be passing through on our route. I made some celestial observations; the latitude of this part of the Columbia River is ____ North, longitude ____ W.
I purchased a horse for which I gave my Pistol 100 Balls Powder & a Knife. our hunters Killed 2 Deer near their Camp to day. 2 yesterday & 3 The Day before, this meet was a great treat to me as I had eate none for 8 days past
I bought a horse and traded my pistol, 100 bullets, and a knife for it. Our hunters killed 2 deer near their camp today, 2 yesterday, and 3 the day before. This food was a big treat for me since I hadn't eaten any in the past 8 days.
[Clark, August 30, 1805]
August 30th Friday 1805 a fine Morning, finding that we Could purchase no more horse than we had for our goods &c. (and those not a Sufficint number for each of our Party to have one which is our wish) I Gave my Fuzee to one of the men & Sold his musket for a horse which Completed us to 29 total horses, we Purchased pack Cords Made Saddles & Set out on our rout down the river by land guided by my old guide one other who joined him, the old gude's 3 Sons followed him before we Set out our hunters killed three Deer proceded on 12 miles and encamped on the river South Side—at the time we Set out from the Indian Camps the greater Part of the Band Set out over to the waters of the Missouri. we had great attention paid to the horses, as they were nearly all Sore Backs and Several pore, & young Those horses are indifferent, maney Sore backs and others not acustomed to pack, and as we Cannot put large loads on them are Compelled to purchase as maney as we Can to take our Small propotion of baggage of the Parties. (& Eate if necessary) Proceeded on 12 miles to day
August 30th, Friday, 1805 - It was a nice morning. We found that we couldn't buy any more horses than we already had for our goods, and those weren't enough for each person in our group to have one, which is what we wanted. I gave my flintlock to one of the men and sold his musket for a horse, bringing our total to 29 horses. We bought pack cords, made saddles, and set out on our route downriver by land, guided by my old guide and another man who joined him. The old guide's three sons followed him. Before we left, our hunters killed three deer. We traveled 12 miles and set up camp on the south side of the river. When we left the Indian camps, most of the group headed over toward the Missouri waters. We paid a lot of attention to the horses since most had sore backs, and several were poor and young. Those horses aren’t very good; many have sore backs and others aren’t used to packing, so since we can’t put large loads on them, we have to buy as many as we can to carry our small share of the group’s baggage (and eat, if necessary). We traveled 12 miles today.
[Clark, August 31, 1805]
August 31st 1805 Satturday A fine morning Set out before Sun rise, as we passed the lodges at which place I had encamped for thre nights and left 2 men, Those 2 men joined us and we proceeded on in the Same rout I decended the 21st Instant, halted 3 hours on Sammon Creek to Let our horses graze the wind hard from the S. W. I met an Indian on horse back who fled with great Speed to Some lodges below & informed them that the Enemis were Coming down, armd with guns &c. the inhabitents of the Lodges indisceved him, we proceeded on the road on which I had decended as far as the 1st run below & left the road & Proceeded up the Run in a tolerable road 4 miles & Encamped in Some old lodjes at the place the road leaves the Creek and assends the high Countrey Six Indians followed us four of them the Sons of our guide; our hunters killed one Deer a goose & Prarie fowl. This day warm and Sultrey, Praries or open Valies on fire in Several places—The Countrey is Set on fire for the purpose of Collecting the different bands, and a Band of the Flatheads to go to the Missouri where They intend passing the winter near the Buffalow Proceeded on 22 miles to Day, 4 miles of which up a run
August 31, 1805, Saturday. It was a beautiful morning. We set out before sunrise, passing by the camps where I had stayed for three nights and left two men behind. Those two men joined us, and we continued on the same route I had taken on the 21st. We stopped for three hours at Salmon Creek to let our horses graze while the wind blew strongly from the southwest. I encountered an Indian on horseback who quickly fled to some nearby lodges and warned them that enemies armed with guns were coming. The inhabitants of the lodges were alarmed. We continued along the same road I had traveled before until we reached the first stream below, then left the road and went up the stream on a reasonably good path for four miles and camped in some old lodges at the spot where the road leaves the creek and climbs into the high country. Six Indians followed us, four of whom were the sons of our guide. Our hunters caught one deer, a goose, and some prairie fowl. It was a warm, sultry day, and the prairies or open valleys were on fire in several places. The land is set ablaze to gather the different bands, and a group of Flatheads plans to head to the Missouri for the winter near the buffalo. We traveled 22 miles today, four of which were up a stream.
[Clark, September 1, 1805]
September 1st Sunday 1805 a fine morning Set out early and proceeded on over high ruged hills passing the heads of the Small runs which fall into the river on our left to a large Creek which falls into the river 6 miles to our left and encamped in the bottom, Some rain to day at 12 and in the evening which obliges us to Continu all night despatched 2 men to the mouth of the Creek to purchase fish of the Indians at that place, They returned with Some dried, we giged 4 Sammon & killed one Deer to Day. the Countrey which we passed to day is well watered & broken Pore Stoney hilly country except the bottoms of the Creek which is narrow, all the Indians leave us except our Guide, one man Shot two bear this evining unfortunately we Could git neither of them
September 1st, Sunday, 1805: It was a beautiful morning. We set out early and traveled over high, rugged hills, passing the heads of small streams that flow into the river on our left, heading towards a large creek that joins the river six miles to our left. We camped in the valley. There was some rain today around noon and again in the evening, which forced us to stay up all night. I sent two men to the mouth of the creek to buy fish from the local Indians. They returned with some dried fish. We caught four salmon and killed one deer today. The land we traveled through was well-watered and uneven—poor, rocky, and hilly, except for the narrow creek bottoms. All the Indians left us except for our guide. One man shot two bears this evening, but unfortunately, we couldn't get either of them.
[Clark, September 2, 1805]
September 2nd Monday 1805 a Cloudy Mornin, raind Some last night we Set out early and proceeded on up the Creek, Crossed a large fork from the right and one from the left; and at 8 miles left the roade on which we were pursuing and which leads over to the Missouri; and proceeded up a West fork without a roade proceded on thro thickets in which we were obliged to Cut a road, over rockey hill Sides where our horses were in pitial danger of Slipping to Ther certain distruction & up & Down Steep hills, where Several horses fell, Some turned over, and others Sliped down Steep hill Sides, one horse Crippeled & 2 gave out. with the greatest dificuelty risque &c. we made five miles & Encamped on The left Side of the Creek in a Small Stoney bottom after night Some time before the rear Came up, one Load left, about 2 miles back, the horse on which it was Carried Crippled. Some rain at night
September 2nd, Monday, 1805: It was a cloudy morning, and it rained a bit last night. We set out early and continued up the creek, crossing a large fork on our right and one on our left. After 8 miles, we left the road we were following, which leads to the Missouri, and proceeded up a west fork without any road. We moved through thickets where we had to cut a path, over rocky hillsides where our horses were at risk of slipping to their doom, and up and down steep hills where several horses fell—some rolled over, while others slid down steep slopes. One horse was crippled, and two gave out completely. Despite the great difficulty and risks, we made five miles and camped on the left side of the creek in a small stony area. After nightfall, it was a while before the rear group caught up; one load was left about 2 miles back because the horse carrying it was crippled. There was some rain during the night.
[Clark, September 3, 1805]
September 3rd Tuesday 1805 A Cloudy morning, horses verry Stiff Sent 2 men back with the horse on which Capt Lewis rode for the load left back last night which detained us until) 8 oClock at which time we Set out. The Country is timbered with Pine Generally the bottoms have a variety of Srubs & the fur trees in Great abundance. hills high & rockey on each Side, in the after part of the day the high mountains closed the Creek on each Side and obliged us to take on the Steep Sides of those Mountains, So Steep that the horses Could Screcly keep from Slipping down, Several Sliped & Injured themselves verry much, with great dificuelty we made ____ miles & Encamped on a branh of the Creek we assended after Crossing Several Steep points & one mountain, but little to eate I killed 5 Pheasents & The huntes 4 with a little Corn afforded us a kind of Supper, at dusk it began to Snow at 3 oClock Some rain. The mountains to the East Covered with Snow. we met with a great misfortune, in haveing our last Thmometer broken by accident, This day we passed over emence hils and Some of the worst roade that ever horses passed our horses frequently fell Snow about 2 inches deep when it began to rain which termonated in a Sleet our genl. Courses nearly North from the R
September 3rd, Tuesday, 1805 It was a cloudy morning, and the horses were very stiff. I sent two men back with the horse that Captain Lewis rode to retrieve the load we left behind last night, which delayed us until 8 o'clock. At that time, we set out. The area is covered with pine trees, and the bottoms have a variety of shrubs, along with plenty of fir trees. The hills are high and rocky on each side. Later in the day, the tall mountains closed in on the creek, forcing us to ascend the steep slopes of those mountains. They were so steep that the horses could barely keep from slipping down, and several fell and injured themselves badly. We managed to travel ____ miles and camped on a branch of the creek we ascended after crossing several steep points and one mountain. There was little to eat; I shot five pheasants, and the hunters got four, which, along with a bit of corn, made for a sort of supper. At dusk, it started to snow, and by 3 o'clock, there was some rain. The mountains to the east were covered in snow. We faced a significant misfortune when our last thermometer broke accidentally. Today, we crossed immense hills and some of the worst roads that horses had ever traveled. Our horses frequently fell in snow about two inches deep when the rain began, which turned into sleet. Our general course was nearly north from the R
[Clark, September 4, 1805]
September 4th Wednesday 1805 a verry cold morning every thing wet and frosed, we detained untill 8 oClock to thaw the covering for the baggage &c. &c. groun covered with Snow, we assended a mountain & took a Divideing ridge which we kept for Several Miles & fell on the head of a Creek which appeared to run the Course we wished to go, I was in front, & Saw Several of the Argalia or Ibex decended the mountain by verry Steep decent takeing the advantage of the points and best places to the Creek, where our hunter killed a Deer which we made use of and prosued our Course down the Creek to the forks about 5 miles where we met a part of the Flat head nation of 33 Lodges about 80 men 400 Total and at least 500 horses, those people recved us friendly, threw white robes over our Sholders & Smoked in the pipes of peace, we Encamped with them & found them friendly but nothing but berries to eate a part of which they gave us, those Indians are well dressed with Skin Shirts & robes, they Stout & light complected more So than Common for Indians, The Chiefs harangued untill late at night, Smoked our pipe and appeared Satisfied. I was the first white man who ever wer on the waters of this river.
September 4th, Wednesday, 1805 was a really cold morning; everything was wet and frozen. We waited until 8 o'clock to thaw the gear for the baggage, etc. The ground was covered with snow. We climbed a mountain and followed a dividing ridge for several miles until we reached the head of a creek that seemed to flow in the direction we wanted to go. I was in front and saw several Ibex descending the mountain on very steep trails, taking the best paths to the creek, where our hunter shot a deer that we used. We continued following the creek to the forks, about 5 miles away, where we met a group of the Flathead nation consisting of 33 lodges with around 80 men, totaling about 400 people and at least 500 horses. They welcomed us warmly, threw white robes over our shoulders, and smoked in the pipes of peace. We camped with them and found them friendly, but they only had berries to eat, some of which they shared with us. These Indians were well-dressed in skin shirts and robes. They were stout and lighter-skinned than the average for Indians. The chiefs spoke until late at night, smoked our pipe, and seemed satisfied. I was the first white man to ever be on the waters of this river.
[Clark, September 5, 1805]
September 5th Thursday 1805 a Cloudy morning we assembled the Chiefs & warriers and Spoke to them (with much dificuely as what we Said had to pass through Several languajes before it got in to theirs, which is a gugling kind of languaje Spoken much thro the fhrought) we informed them who we were, where we Came from, where bound and for what purpose &c. &c. and requsted to purchase & exchange a fiew horses with them, in the Course of the day I purchased 11 horses & exchanged 7 for which we gave a fiew articles of merchendize. those people possess ellegant horses.—we made 4 Chiefs whome we gave meadels & a few Small articles with Tobacco; the women brought us a few berries & roots to eate and the Principal Chief a Dressed Brarow, otter & two Goat & antilope Skins
September 5th, Thursday, 1805: It was a cloudy morning. We gathered the chiefs and warriors and spoke to them (which was quite difficult since what we said had to go through several languages before reaching theirs, which is a gurgling kind of language spoken mainly through the throat). We informed them who we were, where we came from, where we were headed, and for what purpose, etc. We requested to buy and exchange a few horses with them. Throughout the day, I bought 11 horses and traded 7 in exchange, for which we provided a few items of merchandise. These people had beautiful horses. We made 4 chiefs, to whom we gave medals and a few small items along with tobacco. The women brought us some berries and roots to eat, and the principal chief brought us a dressed bear, otter, and two goat and antelope skins.
Those people wore their hair the men Cewed with otter Skin on each Side falling over the Sholrs forward, the women loose promisquisly over ther Sholdrs & face long Shirts which Coms to the anckles & tied with a belt about their waste with a roabe over, the have but fiew ornaments and what they do were are Similar to the Snake Indians, They Call themselves Eoote-lash-Schute and consist of 450 Lodges in all and divided into Several bands on the heads of Columbia river & Missouri, Some low down the Columbia River
Those people wore their hair in a style where the men had it sewn with otter skin on each side, falling over their shoulders in front. The women wore theirs loosely over their shoulders and face, with long shirts that reached their ankles, tied with a belt around their waist and a robe over it. They have very few ornaments, and those they do wear are similar to the Snake Indians. They call themselves Eoote-lash-Schute and consist of 450 lodges in total, divided into several bands along the Columbia River and Missouri, with some located further down the Columbia River.
[Clark, September 6, 1805]
September 6th Friday 1805 Some little rain, purchased two fine horses & took a Vocabiliary of the language litened our loads & packed up, rained contd. Untill 12 oClock we Set out at 2 oClock at the Same time all the Indians Set out on Ther way to meet the Snake Indians at the 3 forks of the Missouri. Crossed a Small river from the right we call ____ Soon after Setting out, also a Small Creek from the North all three forks Comeing together below our Camp at which place the Mountains Close on each Side of the river, We proceeded on N 30 W. Crossed a Mountain and Struck the river Several miles down, at which place the Indians had Encamped two days before, we Proceeded on Down the River which is 30 yds. wide Shallow & Stoney. Crossing it Several times & Encamped in a Small bottom on the right side. rained this evening nothing to eate but berries, our flour out, and but little Corn, the hunters killed 2 pheasents only—all our horses purchased of the oote lash Shutes we Secured well for fear of their leaveing of us, and watched them all night for fear of their leaving us or the Indians prosuing & Steeling them.
September 6th, Friday 1805 Some light rain, bought two great horses & took a vocabulary of the language, lightened our loads & packed up. The rain continued until 12 o'clock. We set out at 2 o'clock, and at the same time all the Indians set out on their way to meet the Snake Indians at the three forks of the Missouri. Crossed a small river from the right that we call _____. Soon after setting out, we crossed a small creek from the north. All three forks come together below our camp, where the mountains close in on each side of the river. We proceeded on N 30 W. Crossed a mountain and reached the river several miles down, where the Indians had camped two days before. We continued down the river, which is 30 yards wide, shallow, & rocky, crossing it several times, and camped in a small bottom on the right side. It rained this evening; we had nothing to eat but berries, our flour was out, and we had very little corn. The hunters only killed two pheasants. All our horses purchased from the Oote Lash Shutes were secured well for fear they might leave us, and we watched them all night to prevent them from escaping or the Indians pursuing & stealing them.
[Clark, September 7, 1805]
September 7th Satturday 1805 A Cloudy & rainie Day the greater Part of the Day dark & Drisley we proceedd on down the river thro a Vallie passed Several Small Runs on the right & 3 creeks on the left The Vallie from 1 to 2 miles wide the Snow top mountains to our left, open hilley Countrey on the right. Saw 2 horses left by the Indians Those horses were as wild a Elk. One of our hunters Came up this morning without his horse, in the course of the night the horse broke loose & Cleared out—we did not make Camp untill dark, for the want of a good place, one of our hunters did not join us this evening. he haveing killed an elk packed his horses & could not overtake us
September 7th, Saturday, 1805. It was a cloudy and rainy day, mostly dark and drizzly. We continued down the river through a valley, passing several small streams on the right and three creeks on the left. The valley was about 1 to 2 miles wide, with snow-capped mountains on our left and open hilly country on our right. We spotted two horses left behind by the Indians; those horses were as wild as elk. One of our hunters came back this morning without his horse; during the night, the horse broke loose and ran off. We didn't set up camp until dark because we couldn't find a good spot. One of our hunters didn't join us tonight because he had killed an elk, packed his horses, and couldn't catch up with us.
[Clark, September 8, 1805]
September 8th Sunday 1805 a Cloudy morning Set out early and proceeded on through an open vallie for 23 miles passed 4 Creeks on the right Some runs on the left, The bottoms as also the hills Stoney bad land. Some pine on the Creeks and mountains, an partial on the hills to the right hand Side. two of our hunters came up with us at 12 oClock with an Elk, & Buck—the wind from the N. W. & Cold. The foot of the Snow mountains approach the River on the left Side. Some Snow on The mountain to the right also proceeded on down the Vallie which is pore Stoney land and encamped on the right Side of the river a hard rain all the evening we are all Cold and wet. on this part of the river on the head of Clarks River I observe great quantities of a peculiar Sort of Prickly peare grow in Clusters ovel & about the Size of a Pigions egge with Strong Thorns which is So birded as to draw the Pear from the Cluster after penetrateing our feet. Drewyer killed a Deer. I killed a prarie fowl we found 2 mears and a Colt the mears were lame, we ventered to let our late purchase of horses loose to night
September 8th, Sunday, 1805 - It was a cloudy morning. We set out early and traveled through an open valley for 23 miles. We passed 4 creeks on the right and some streams on the left. The lowlands and hills were rocky and poor. There were some pine trees by the creeks and mountains, and a few on the hills to our right. Two of our hunters joined us at noon with an elk and a buck. The wind was coming from the northwest and it was cold. The foothills of the Snowy Mountains were close to the river on the left. There was some snow on the mountain to the right. We continued down the valley, which was rocky and poorly suited for camping, and set up our camp on the right side of the river. It rained heavily all evening, and we were all cold and wet. Near the head of Clark’s River, I noticed large amounts of a unique type of prickly pear growing in clusters, about the size of a pigeon’s egg, with strong thorns that penetrated our feet when we tried to take the pears. Drewyer killed a deer, and I shot a prairie fowl. We found two mares and a colt; the mares were lame. We decided to let our recently acquired horses loose for the night.
[Lewis, September 9, 1805]
Monday September 9th 1805. Set out at 7 A M. this morning and proceeded down the Flathead river leaving it on our left, the country in the valley of this river is generally a prarie and from five to 6 miles wide the growth is almost altogether pine principally of the longleafed kind, with some spruce and a kind of furr resembleing the scotch furr. near the wartercourses we find a small proportion of the narrow leafed cottonwood some redwood honeysuckle and rosebushes form the scant proportion of underbrush to be seen. at 12 we halted on a small branch which falls in to the river on the E. side, where we breakfasted on a scant proportion of meat which we had reserved from the hunt of yesterday added to three geese which one of our hunters killed this morning. two of our hunters have arrived, one of them brought with him a redheaded woodpecker of the large kind common to the U States. this is the first of the kind I have seen since I left the Illinois. just as we were seting out Drewyer arrived with two deer. we continued our rout down the valley about 4 miles and crossed the river; it is hear a handsome stream about 100 yards wide and affords a considerable quantity of very clear water, the banks are low and it's bed entirely gravel. the stream appears navigable, but from the circumstance of their being no sammon in it I believe that there must be a considerable fall in it below. our guide could not inform us where this river discharged itself into the columbia river, he informed us that it continues it's course along the mountains to the N. as far as he knew it and that not very distant from where we then were it formed a junction with a stream nearly as large as itself which took it's rise in the mountains near the Missouri to the East of us and passed through an extensive valley generally open prarie which forms an excellent pass to the Missouri. the point of the Missouri where this Indian pass intersects it, is about 30 miles above the gates of the rocky mountain, or the place where the valley of the Missouri first widens into an extensive plain after entering the rockey mountains. the guide informed us that a man might pass to the missouri from hence by that rout in four days. we continued our rout down the W. side of the river about 5 miles further and encamped on a large creek which falls in on the West as our guide informes that we should leave the river at this place and the weather appearing settled and fair I determined to halt the next day rest our horses and take some scelestial Observations. we called this Creek Travellers rest. it is about 20 yards wide a fine bould clear runing stream the land through which we passed is but indifferent a could white gravley soil. we estimate our journey of this day at 19 M.
Monday, September 9th, 1805. We set out at 7 AM this morning and proceeded down the Flathead River, leaving it on our left. The land in the valley of this river is generally a prairie, about five to six miles wide. The dominant vegetation is mostly longleaf pine, with some spruce and a type of fir resembling Scots fir. Near the watercourses, we find a small amount of narrow-leaved cottonwood, some redwood honeysuckle, and rose bushes, which form the limited underbrush we see. At noon, we stopped at a small branch that flows into the river on the east side, where we had breakfast on the little meat we had saved from yesterday's hunt, along with three geese that one of our hunters shot this morning. Two of our hunters arrived, and one of them brought a large red-headed woodpecker that is common in the U.S. This is the first one I've seen since I left Illinois. Just as we were getting ready to leave, Drewyer arrived with two deer. We continued our route down the valley for about four miles and crossed the river. Here, it's a beautiful stream about 100 yards wide, with a significant amount of very clear water. The banks are low, and the bed is entirely gravel. The stream seems navigable, but since there are no salmon in it, I believe there must be a considerable drop in it downstream. Our guide couldn't tell us where this river empties into the Columbia River; he informed us that it continues north along the mountains as far as he knows. Not far from where we were, it meets a stream nearly as large, which originates in the mountains near the Missouri to the east of us and flows through a broad, generally open prairie, creating an excellent passage to the Missouri. The point where this Indian pass intersects the Missouri is about 30 miles above the Gates of the Rocky Mountains, or the spot where the Missouri Valley first opens into an extensive plain after entering the Rocky Mountains. The guide mentioned that a person could make it to the Missouri from here along that route in four days. We continued down the west side of the river for another five miles and set up camp by a large creek that flows in from the west. Our guide suggested that we should leave the river here, and since the weather seemed settled and fair, I decided to stop the next day to rest our horses and take some celestial observations. We named this creek Traveler's Rest. It's about 20 yards wide, a nice clear-running stream, and the land we passed through is of mediocre quality with white gravelly soil. We estimate our journey for the day at 19 miles.
[Clark, September 9, 1805]
September 9th Monday 1805 a fair morning Set out early and proceeded on thro a plain as yesterday down the valley Crossed a large Scattering Creek on which Cotton trees grew at 11/2 miles, a Small one at 10 miles, both from the right, the main river at 15 miles & Encamped on a large Creek from the left which we call Travelers rest Creek. killed 4 deer & 4 Ducks & 3 prarie fowls. day fair Wind N. W. See Suplement
September 9th, Monday, 1805 - A nice morning. We set out early and continued through a plain like yesterday, down the valley. We crossed a large Scattering Creek with cotton trees at 1.5 miles, a small one at 10 miles, both on the right side, and reached the main river at 15 miles. We camped on a large creek from the left, which we named Travelers Rest Creek. We killed 4 deer, 4 ducks, and 3 prairie fowls. The day was fair, with a northwest wind. See Supplement.
[Lewis, September 10, 1805]
Tuesday September 10th 1805. The morning being fair I sent out all the hunters, and directed two of them to procede down the river as far as it's junction with the Eastern fork which heads near the missouri, and return this evening. this fork of the river we determined to name the Valley plain river. I think it most probable that this river continues it's course along the rocky Mts. Northwardly as far or perhaps beyond the scources of Medecine river and then turning to the West falls into the Tacootchetessee. The Minetares informed us that there was a large river west of, and at no great distance from the sources of Medecine river, which passed along the Rocky Mountains from S. to N.this evening one of our hunters returned accompanyed by three men of the Flathead nation whom he had met in his excurtion up travellers rest Creek. on first meeting him the Indians were allarmed and prepared for battle with their bows and arrows, but he soon relieved their fears by laying down his gun and advancing towards them. the Indians were mounted on very fine horses of which the Flatheads have a great abundance; that is, each man in the nation possesses from 20 to a hundred head. our guide could not speake the language of these people but soon engaged them in conversation by signs or jesticulation, the common language of all the Aborigines of North America, it is one understood by all of them and appears to be sufficiently copious to convey with a degree of certainty the outlines of what they wish to communicate. in this manner we learnt from these people that two men which they supposed to be of the Snake nation had stolen 23 horses from them and that they were in pursuit of the theaves. they told us they were in great hast, we gave them some boiled venison, of which the eat sparingly. the sun was now set, two of them departed after receiving a few small articles which we gave them, and the third remained, having agreed to continue with us as a guide, and to introduce us to his relations whom he informed us were numerous and resided in the plain below the mountains on the columbia river, from whence he said the water was good and capable of being navigated to the sea; that some of his relation were at the sea last fall and saw an old whiteman who resided there by himself and who had given them some handkerchiefs such as he saw in our possession.—he said it would require five sleeps wich is six days travel, to reach his relations. the Flatheads are a very light coloured people of large stature and comely form.
Tuesday, September 10th, 1805. It was a beautiful morning, so I sent out all the hunters and instructed two of them to head down the river until they reached the junction with the Eastern Fork, which starts near the Missouri, and to return this evening. We decided to call this fork of the river the Valley Plain River. I believe this river likely continues northward along the Rocky Mountains, possibly as far as or beyond the sources of Medicine River, before turning west and flowing into the Tacootchetessee. The Minetares informed us about a large river to the west, not far from the sources of Medicine River, that runs along the Rocky Mountains from south to north. This evening, one of our hunters came back, accompanied by three men from the Flathead nation, whom he had met while exploring Travelers Rest Creek. When they first encountered him, the Indians were alarmed and ready for battle with their bows and arrows, but he quickly eased their concerns by laying down his gun and approaching them. The Indians were riding excellent horses, which the Flatheads have in great numbers—each man in the nation owns between 20 and 100 horses. Our guide couldn't speak their language but soon started communicating with them through signs and gestures, the universal language of North American natives, which everyone seems to understand and is adequate for conveying basic ideas. In this way, we learned from them that two men, whom they believed were from the Snake nation, had stolen 23 horses from them, and they were in pursuit of the thieves. They mentioned they were in a hurry, and we offered them some boiled venison, which they ate sparingly. The sun had now set; two of them left after receiving a few small items from us, while the third stayed behind, agreeing to continue with us as a guide and to introduce us to his relatives, who he said were numerous and lived in the plains below the mountains along the Columbia River. He claimed the water there was good and navigable all the way to the sea, and some of his relatives had been at the sea last fall and met an old white man who lived there alone and had given them some handkerchiefs like the ones we had. He said it would take five sleeps, or six days of travel, to reach his relatives. The Flatheads are a very light-skinned people, tall and of good build.
[Clark, September 10, 1805]
September 10th Tuesday 1805 A fair morning Concluded to Delay to day and make Some observations, as at this place the rout which we are to prosue will pass up the Travelers rest Creek, The day proved fair and we took equal altitudes & Some Inner observations. The Latd. 46° 48' 28" as the guide report that no game is to be found on our rout for a long ways, ads an addition to the cause of our delay to precure Some meat, despatched all our hunters in different directions, to hunt the Deer which is the only large game to be found they killed 4 deer a Beaver & 3 Grouse which was divided, one of the hunters Colter, met with 3 Tushapaw Indians who were in pursuit of 2 Snake Indians that bade taken from ther Camps on the head of Kooskooske River 21 horses, Those Indians came with Colter to our Camp & informed by Signs of their misfortune & the rout to ther villages &c. &c. one of them Concluded to return with us. we gave them a ring fish hook & tied a pece of ribin in the hare of each which appeared to please them verry much, Cap Lewis gave them a Steel & a little Powder to make fire, after eating 2 of them proceeded on in pursute of their horses. men all much engaged preparing mockersons &c. &c. The Countrey about this place is already described in that above.
September 10th, Tuesday, 1805 It was a nice morning. We decided to stay put today and make some observations, as our route will take us up Traveler's Rest Creek. The weather was good, and we took some altitude readings and a few internal measurements. The latitude is 46° 48' 28". Our guide reported that there isn’t any game on our route for quite a ways, which adds to our delay as we need to get some meat. We sent all our hunters in different directions to hunt for deer, which is the only large game available. They managed to kill 4 deer, a beaver, and 3 grouse, which we divided up. One of the hunters, Colter, encountered 3 Tushapaw Indians who were chasing 2 Snake Indians that had taken 21 horses from their camps at the head of the Kooskooske River. These Indians came back with Colter to our camp and communicated their unfortunate situation through signs, as well as the route to their villages, etc. One of them decided to return with us. We gave them a ring fishhook and tied a piece of ribbon in the hair of each, which seemed to please them a lot. Cap Lewis gave them a steel and some gunpowder to make a fire. After eating, 2 of them went back in pursuit of their horses. The men were all busy preparing moccasins and other things. The country around this place has already been described above.
[Clark, September 11, 1805]
September 11th Wednesday 1805 A fair morning wind from the N W we Set out at 3 oClock and proceeded on up the Travelers rest Creek, accompanied by the flat head or Tushapaws Indians about 7 miles below this Creek a large fork comes in from the right and heads up against the waters of the Missouri below the Three forks, this river has extensive Vallies of open leavel land, "and passes in its Whole Course thro a Valie" they call it our Guide tels us a fine large roade passes up this river to the Missouri—The loss of 2 of our horses detained us util. 3 oClock. P.M. our Flathead Indian being restless thought proper to leave us and proceed on alone, Sent out the hunters to hunt in advance as usial. (we have Selected 4 of the best hunters to go in advance to hunt for the party. This arrangement has been made long sinc) we Proceeded on up the Creek on the right Side thro a narrow valie and good road for 7 miles and Encamped at Some old Indian Lodges, nothing killed this evening hills on the right high & ruged, the mountains on the left high & Covered with Snow. The day Verry worm
September 11th, Wednesday, 1805 It was a nice morning with a wind from the northwest. We started out at 3 o'clock and went up Travelers Rest Creek, joined by the Flathead or Tushapaws Indians. About 7 miles down the creek, a large fork comes in from the right and flows against the waters of the Missouri below the Three Forks. This river has wide open valleys with plenty of land, and it runs through a valley all along its course. The guide tells us there’s a good road that leads up this river to the Missouri. We were delayed until 3 o'clock PM due to the loss of two of our horses. Our Flathead Indian, feeling restless, decided it was best to leave us and continue on alone. We sent out the hunters to scout ahead as usual. (We selected four of the best hunters to go ahead and hunt for the group, a plan we made long ago.) We continued up the creek on the right side through a narrow valley and good road for 7 miles and set up camp near some old Indian lodges. Nothing was killed this evening; the hills on our right were high and rugged, while the mountains on our left were tall and covered in snow. It was a very warm day.
[Clark, September 12, 1805]
September 12th Thursday 1805 a white frost Set out at 7 oClock & proceeded on up the Creek, passed a Fork on the right on which I saw near an old Indian encampment a Swet house Covered wthh earth, at 2 miles assended a high hill & proceeded through a hilley and thickly timbered Countrey for 9 miles & on the Right of the Creek, passing Several branches from the right of fine clear water and Struck at a fork at which place the road forks, one passing up each fork. The Timber is Short & long leaf Pine Spruce Pine & fur. The road through this hilley Countrey is verry bad passing over hills & thro Steep hollows, over falling timber &c. &c. continued on & passed Some most intolerable road on the Sides of the Steep Stoney mountains, which might be avoided by keeping up the Creek which is thickly covered with under groth & falling timber Crossed a mountain 8 miles with out water & encamped on a hill Side on the Creek after Decending a long Steep mountain, Some of our Party did not git up untill 10 oClock P M. I mad camp at 8 on this roade & particularly on this Creek the Indians have pealed a number of Pine for the under bark which they eate at certain Seasons of the year, I am told in the Spring they make use of this bark our hunters Killed only one Pheasent this after noon. Party and horses much fatigued.
September 12th, Thursday, 1805. There was a white frost. We set out at 7 o'clock and continued up the creek, passing a fork on the right where I saw, near an old Indian camp, a sweet house covered with earth. After 2 miles, I climbed a high hill and went through a hilly and heavily wooded area for 9 miles, keeping to the right of the creek. We passed several branches with fine, clear water and came to a fork in the road, where it splits off in two directions. The timber here is short and consists of longleaf pine, spruce pine, and fir. The road through this hilly area is very bad as it goes over hills and steep hollows, navigating falling timber, etc. We continued onward and faced some incredibly challenging road along the sides of steep, rocky mountains, which could be avoided by sticking closer to the creek, though it's thick with undergrowth and fallen timber. We crossed a mountain and went 8 miles without water, finally camping on a hillside by the creek after descending a long, steep mountain. Some of our party didn’t get in until 10 o'clock PM. I set up camp at 8 along this route, specifically on this creek where the Indians have stripped a number of pine trees for the underbark, which they eat during certain times of the year. I’ve been told they use this bark in the spring. Our hunters only managed to kill one pheasant this afternoon. The party and horses are quite fatigued.
[Clark, September 13, 1805]
September 13th Wednesday 1805 a cloudy morning Capt Lewis and one of our guides lost their horses, Capt Lewis & 4 men detained to hunt the horses, I proceeded on with the partey up the Creek at 2 miles passed Several Springs which I observed the Deer Elk &c. had made roads to, and below one of the Indians had made a whole to bathe, I tasted this water and found it hot & not bad tasted The last ____ in further examonation I found this water nearly boiling hot at the places it Spouted from the rocks (which a hard Corse Grit, and of great size the rocks on the Side of the Mountain of the Same texture) I put my finger in the water, at first could not bare it in a Second-as Several roads led from these Springs in different derections, my Guide took a wrong road and took us out of our rout 3 miles through intolerable rout, after falling into the right road I proceeded on thro tolerabl rout for abt. 4 or 5 miles and halted to let our horses graze as well as waite for Capt Lewis who has not yet Come up, The pine Countrey falling timber &c. &c. Continue. This Creek is verry much darned up with the beaver, but we can See none, dispatched two men back to hunt Capt Lewis horse, after he came up, and we proceeded over a mountain to the head of the Creek which we left to our left and at 6 miles from the place I nooned it, we fell on a Small Creek from the left which Passed through open glades Some of which 1/2 a mile wide, we proceeded down this Creek about 2 miles to where the mountains Closed on either Side crossing the Creek Several times & Encamped.
September 13th, Wednesday, 1805 It was a cloudy morning. Captain Lewis and one of our guides lost their horses, so Captain Lewis and four men stayed behind to search for them. I continued on with the party up the creek. After two miles, we passed several springs that I noticed deer, elk, and other animals had created paths to. Below one of the springs, an Indian had made a hole for bathing. I tasted the water and found it hot and not bad. Upon further examination, I discovered the water was nearly boiling at the spots where it spouted from the rocks, which were composed of hard coarse grit and were quite large, matching the texture of the rocks on the mountainside. I dipped my finger into the water, and at first, I couldn't stand it; after a second, I realized it was too hot. Several paths led away from these springs in different directions, but my guide took a wrong turn that took us off our route for three miles through an unbearable terrain. After getting back on track, I continued on a tolerable path for about four or five miles and stopped to let our horses graze while we waited for Captain Lewis, who had not yet caught up. The pine country had fallen timber and so on. This creek is heavily dammed by beavers, but we couldn't see any. I sent two men back to look for Captain Lewis's horse. Once he caught up with us, we proceeded over a mountain to the head of the creek, which we left to our left. After six miles from where I stopped for lunch, we encountered a small creek on the left that flowed through open glades, some of which were half a mile wide. We proceeded down this creek for about two miles, where the mountains closed in on either side, crossing the creek several times, and then we set up camp.
One Deer & Some Pheasants killed this morning, I shot 4 Pheasents of the Common Kind except the taile was black. The road over the last mountain was thick Steep & Stoney as usial, after passing the head of Travelers rest Creek, the road was verry fine leavel open & firm Some mountains in view to the S E & S W. Covered with Snow.
One deer and some pheasants were killed this morning. I shot four common pheasants, except their tails were black. The road over the last mountain was as usual thick, steep, and rocky. After passing the head of Travelers Rest Creek, the road was very fine, level, open, and firm, with some mountains in view to the southeast and southwest, covered in snow.
[Clark, September 14, 1805]
September 14th Thursday 1805 a Cloudy day in the Valies it rained and hailed, on the top of the mountains Some Snow fell we Set out early and Crossed a high mountn on the right of the Creek for 6 miles to the forks of the Glade Creek the right hand fork which falls in is about the Size of the other, we Crossed to the left Side at the foks, and Crossd a verry high Steep mountain for 9 miles to a large fork from the left which appears to head in the Snow toped mountains Southerley and S. E. we Crossd. Glade Creek above its mouth, at a place the Tushepaws or Flat head Indians have made 2 wears across to Catch Sammon and have but latterly left the place I could see no fish, and the grass entirely eaten out by the horses, we proceeded on 2 miles & Encamped opposit a Small Island at the mouth of a branch on the right side of the river which is at this place 80 yards wide, Swift and Stoney, here we wer compelled to kill a Colt for our men & Selves to eat for the want of meat & we named the South fork Colt killed Creek, and this river we Call Flathead River- The Mountains which we passed today much worst than yesterday the last excessively bad & Thickly Strowed with falling timber & Pine Spruc fur Hackmatak & Tamerack, Steep & Stoney our men and horses much fatigued, The rain ____
September 14th, Thursday, 1805 - It was a cloudy day in the valleys, with rain and hail, and some snow fell on the mountaintops. We set out early and crossed a high mountain to the right of the creek for 6 miles to the forks of Glade Creek. The right-hand fork, which flows in, is about the same size as the other. We crossed to the left side at the forks and then climbed a very steep mountain for 9 miles to a large fork on the left, which seems to originate in the snow-capped mountains to the south and southeast. We crossed Glade Creek above its mouth at a spot where the Tushepaws or Flathead Indians had built two weirs to catch salmon, although they had recently left the area. I couldn't see any fish, and the grass was completely eaten out by the horses. We continued on for 2 miles and camped opposite a small island at the mouth of a branch on the right side of the river, which is about 80 yards wide, swift, and stony. Here, we were forced to kill a colt for our men and ourselves to eat due to a lack of meat, so we named the south fork Colt Killed Creek, and we call this river Flathead River. The mountains we passed today were much worse than yesterday; the last part was excessively bad and thickly strewn with fallen timber, pine, spruce, fir, hackmatack, and tamarack. They were steep and stony, leaving our men and horses very fatigued. The rain...
[Clark, September 15, 1805]
Wednesday Septr. 15th 1805 We set out early. the morning Cloudy and proceeded on Down the right Side of River over Steep points rockey & buschey as usial for 4 miles to an old Indian fishing place, here the road leaves the river to the left and assends a mountain winding in every direction to get up the Steep assents & to pass the emence quantity of falling timber which had falling from dift. causes i e. fire & wind and has deprived the Greater part of the Southerley Sides of this mountain of its gren timber, 4 miles up the mountain I found a Spring and halted for the rear to come up and to let our horses rest & feed, about 2 hours the rear of the party came up much fatigued & horses more So, Several horses Sliped and roled down Steep hills which hurt them verry much The one which Carried my desk & Small trunk Turned over & roled down a mountain for 40 yards & lodged against a tree, broke the Desk the horse escaped and appeared but little hurt Some others verry much hurt, from this point I observed a range of high mountains Covered with Snow from S E. to S W with Their top bald or void of timber. after two hours delay we proceeded on up the mountain Steep & ruged as usial, more timber near the top, when we arrived at the top As we Conceved we could find no water and Concluded to Camp and make use of the Snow we found on the top to cook the remnt. of our Colt & make our Supe, evening verry Cold and Cloudy. Two of our horses gave out, pore and too much hurt to proceed on and left in the rear—nothing killed to day except 2 Phests.
Wednesday, September 15th, 1805 We set out early. The morning was cloudy as we continued down the right side of the river over steep, rocky, and bushy terrain, as usual, for 4 miles to an old Indian fishing spot. Here, the road veered left away from the river and ascended a mountain, winding in every direction to navigate the steep inclines and the massive amount of fallen timber caused by fire and wind, which had stripped most of the southern slopes of this mountain of its green trees. Four miles up the mountain, I found a spring and stopped to let the rear catch up and to give our horses a chance to rest and feed. After about 2 hours, the remainder of the party arrived, feeling very tired, and the horses even more so. Several horses slipped and rolled down steep hills, injuring them quite a bit. One horse that carried my desk and small trunk rolled down a mountain for 40 yards before getting stuck against a tree, breaking the desk, but the horse escaped with only minor injuries. Some others were hurt much worse. From this point, I noticed a range of high mountains covered in snow from the southeast to the southwest, with their peaks bare of trees. After a two-hour delay, we continued up the mountain, which was steep and rugged as usual, with more timber near the top. When we reached what we thought was the top, we found there was no water and decided to camp, using the snow up there to cook the remaining colt and make our supper. The evening was very cold and cloudy. Two of our horses gave out, poor things, too injured to continue, and were left behind. We didn’t kill anything today except for 2 pheasants.
From this mountain I could observe high ruged mountains in every direction as far as I could See. with the greatest exertion we Could only make 12 miles up this mountain and encamped on the top of the mountain near a Bank of old Snow about 3 feet deep lying on the Northern Side of the mountain and in Small banks on the top & leavel parts of the mountain, we melted the Snow to drink, and Cook our horse flesh to eat.
From this mountain, I could see rugged peaks in every direction as far as I could see. With great effort, we could only cover 12 miles up this mountain and set up camp at the top near a bank of old snow about 3 feet deep on the northern side and in small patches on the flat parts of the mountain. We melted the snow to drink and cooked our horse meat to eat.
[Clark, September 16, 1805]
Saturday Septr. 16th 1805 began to Snow about 3 hours before Day and Continud all day the Snow in The morning 4 Inches deep on The old Snow, and by night we found it from 6 to 8 Inches deep I walked in front to keep the road and found great dificuelty in keeping it as in maney places the Snow had entirely filled up the track, and obliged me to hunt Several minits for the track at 12 oClock we halted on the top of the mountain to worm & dry our Selves a little as well as to let our horses rest and graze a little on Some long grass which I observed, (on) The South Steep hills Side & falling timber Continue to day, and a thickly timbered Countrey of 8 different kinds of pine, which are So covered with Snow, that in passing thro them we are continually covered with Snow, I have been wet and as cold in every part as I ever was in my life, indeed I was at one time fearfull my feet would freeze in the thin mockersons which I wore, after a Short delay in the middle of the Day, I took one man and proceeded on as fast as I could about 6 miles to a Small branch passing to the right, halted and built fires for the party agains their arrival which was at Dusk verry cold and much fatigued we Encamped at this Branch in a thickly timbered bottom which was Scercely large enough for us to lie leavil, men all wet cold and hungary. Killed a Second Colt which we all Suped hartily on and thought it fine meat.
Saturday, September 16, 1805, it started to snow about three hours before dawn and continued all day. In the morning, there were four inches of snow on the old snow, and by night the depth ranged from six to eight inches. I walked ahead to keep the path clear and found it very difficult, as in many places the snow completely filled the track, forcing me to take several minutes to search for the way. At noon, we stopped at the top of the mountain to warm up and dry off a bit, as well as to let our horses rest and graze on some long grass I spotted on the southern slope and among the fallen timber. The area is heavily wooded with eight different kinds of pine, which are so covered in snow that as we pass through, we keep getting blanketed with it. I was soaked and as cold as I’ve ever been; at one point, I feared my feet would freeze in the thin moccasins I was wearing. After a short break in the middle of the day, I took one man and pushed on as fast as I could for about six miles to a small branch on the right. We stopped there and built fires for the rest of the group, who arrived at dusk, very cold and extremely tired. We set up camp at this branch in a densely wooded area that was barely large enough for us to lie flat. The men were all wet, cold, and hungry. We killed a second colt, which we all enjoyed for supper and thought it was excellent meat.
I saw 4 Black tail Deer to day before we Set out which came up the mountain and what is Singular Snaped 7 tims at a large buck. it is Singular as my gun has a Steel frisen and never Snaped 7 times before in examining her found the flint loose to describe the road of this day would be a repitition of yesterday excpt the Snow which made it much wors to proseed as we had in maney places to derect our Selves by the appearence of the rubbings of the Packs against the trees which have limbs quiet low and bending downwards
I saw 4 Black-tailed deer today before we set out, which came up the mountain. What’s strange is that my gun snapped 7 times at a large buck. It’s unusual because my gun has a steel frizzen and has never snapped 7 times before. Upon examining it, I found the flint was loose. Describing the road today would just be a repeat of yesterday, except the snow made it much worse to proceed. In many places, we had to navigate by the markings left by the packs against the trees, which have low limbs that bend downwards.
[Clark, September 17, 1805]
Sunday 17th Septr. 1805 Cloudy morning our horses much Scattered which detained us untill one oClock P.M. at which time we Set out the falling Snow & Snow from the trees which kept us wet all the after noon passed over Several high ruged Knobs and Several dreans & Springs passing to the right, & passing on the ridge devideing the waters of two Small rivers. road excessively bad Snow on the Knobs, no Snow in the vallies Killed a fiew Pheasents which was not Sufficient for our Supper which compelled us to kill Something. a coalt being the most useless part of our Stock he fell a Prey to our appetites. The after part of the day fare, we made only 10 miles to day two horses fell & hurt themselves very much. we Encamped on the top of a high Knob of the mountain at a run passing to the left. we proceed on as yesterday, & with dificulty found the road
Sunday, September 17, 1805. It was a cloudy morning, and our horses were widely scattered, which delayed us until 1:00 PM. At that point, we set out. The falling snow and snow from the trees kept us wet all afternoon. We crossed several high, rugged hills and a few streams and springs to our right, moving along the ridge that divided the waters of two small rivers. The road was really bad, with snow on the hills but none in the valleys. We killed a few pheasants, but it wasn’t enough for our supper, so we had to kill something. A coal was the least useful part of our stock, so it became our meal. By the end of the day, we only traveled 10 miles, and two horses fell and hurt themselves badly. We camped at the top of a high hill on the mountain next to a stream on our left. We continued on as we did yesterday and had a hard time finding the road.
[Lewis, September 18, 1805]
Wednesday September 18th 1805. Cap Clark set out this morning to go a head with six hunters. there being no game in these mountains we concluded it would be better for one of us to take the hunters and hurry on to the leavel country a head and there hunt and provide some provision while the other remained with and brought on the party the latter of these was my part; accordingly I directed the horses to be gotten up early being determined to force my march as much as the abilities of our horses would permit. the negligence of one of the party Willard who had a spare horse not attending to him and bringing him up last evening was the cause of our detention this morning untill 1/2 after 8 A M when we set out. I sent willard back to serch for his horse, and proceeded on with the party at four in the evening he overtook us without the horse, we marched 18 miles this day and encamped on the side of a steep mountain; we suffered for water this day passing one rivulet only; we wer fortunate in finding water in a steep raviene about 1/2 maile from our camp. this morning we finished the remainder of our last coult. we dined & suped on a skant proportion of portable soupe, a few canesters of which, a little bears oil and about 20 lbs. of candles form our stock of provision, the only recources being our guns & packhorses. the first is but a poor dependance in our present situation where there is nothing upon earth exept ourselves and a few small pheasants, small grey Squirrels, and a blue bird of the vulter kind about the size of a turtle dove or jay bird. our rout lay along the ridge of a high mountain course S. 20 W. 18 in. used the snow for cooking.
Wednesday, September 18, 1805. Captain Clark set out this morning with six hunters. Since there was no game in these mountains, we decided it would be better for one of us to take the hunters and head on to the flatter land ahead to hunt and gather some supplies, while the other stayed behind to bring along the rest of the group. I chose to stay with the party; so, I had the horses ready early, determined to push our march as much as our horses could handle. The carelessness of one member of the group, Willard, who failed to find his spare horse and bring him up last night, caused our delay this morning until half past 8 AM when we finally set out. I sent Willard back to look for his horse and continued on with the group. By four in the evening, he caught up with us, but without the horse. We traveled 18 miles today and set up camp on the side of a steep mountain; we struggled to find water today, passing only one small stream. We were lucky to find water in a steep ravine about half a mile from our camp. This morning we finished off the rest of our last colt. We had lunch and dinner on a meager amount of portable soup, some cans of which, a little bear oil, and about 20 lbs. of candles made up our food supply, with our only options being our guns and packhorses. The guns aren't much help in our current situation, where there’s nothing around except for ourselves, a few small pheasants, little gray squirrels, and a blue bird similar to a vulture, about the size of a turtle dove or a jay bird. Our route took us along the ridge of a high mountain going S. 20 W. 18 in. We used the snow for cooking.
[Clark, September 18, 1805]
Monday 18th Septr. 1805 a fair morning cold I proceded on in advance with Six hunters to try and find deer or Something to kill we passed over a countrey Similar to the one of yesterday more falling timber passed Several runs & Springs passing to the right from the top of a high part of the mountain at 20 miles I had a view of an emence Plain and leavel Countrey to the S W. & West at a great distance a high mountain in advance beyond the Plain, Saw but little Sign of deer and nothing else, much falling timber, made 32 miles and Encamped on a bold running Creek passing to the left which I call Hungery Creek as at that place we had nothing to eate. I halted only one hour to day to let our horses feed on Grass and rest
Monday, September 18, 1805, was a clear and cold morning. I moved ahead with six hunters to look for deer or something to hunt. We crossed a landscape similar to yesterday's, encountering more fallen timber and several streams and springs to the right, coming down from a high part of the mountain. After 20 miles, I got a view of a vast, flat area to the southwest and west, with a tall mountain visible in the distance beyond the plain. I saw very few signs of deer and nothing else, just a lot of fallen timber. We covered 32 miles and set up camp by a swiftly flowing creek on the left, which I named Hungry Creek since we had nothing to eat there. I only stopped for an hour today to let our horses graze and rest.
[Lewis, September 19, 1805]
Thursday September 19th 1805. Set out this morning a little after sun rise and continued our rout about the same course of yesterday or S. 20 W. for 6 miles when the ridge terminated and we to our inexpressable joy discovered a large tract of Prairie country lying to the S. W. and widening as it appeared to extend to the W. through that plain the Indian informed us that the Columbia river, in which we were in surch run. this plain appeared to be about 60 Miles distant, but our guide assured us that we should reach it's borders tomorrow the appearance of this country, our only hope for subsistance greately revived the sperits of the party already reduced and much weakened for the want of food. the country is thickly covered with a very heavy growth of pine of which I have ennumerated 8 distinct species. after leaving the ridge we asscended and decended several steep mountains in the distance of 6 miles further when we struck a Creek about 15 yards wide our course being S. 35 W. we continued our rout 6 miles along the side of this creek upwards passing 2 of it's branches which flowed in from the N. 1st at the place we struck the creek and the other 3 miles further. the road was excessively dangerous along this creek being a narrow rockey path generally on the side of steep precipice, from which in many places if ether man or horse were precipitated they would inevitably be dashed in pieces. Fraziers horse fell from this road in the evening, and roled with his load near a hundred yards into the Creek. we all expected that the horse was killed but to our astonishment when the load was taken off him he arose to his feet & appeared to be but little injured, in 20 minutes he proceeded with his load. this was the most wonderfull escape I ever witnessed, the hill down which he roled was almost perpendicular and broken by large irregular and broken rocks. the course of this Creek upwards due W. we encamped on the Stard. side of it in a little raviene, having traveled 18 miles over a very bad road. we took a small quantity of portable soup, and retired to rest much fatiegued. several of the men are unwell of the disentary. brakings out, or irruptions of the Skin, have also been common with us for some time.
Thursday, September 19, 1805. We set out this morning just after sunrise and continued on roughly the same route as yesterday, heading S. 20 W. for 6 miles until the ridge ended. To our indescribable joy, we discovered a large area of prairie land stretching to the S.W. and seemingly widening as it extended to the W. The Indian guide informed us that the Columbia River, which we were searching for, lay beyond this plain. It appeared to be about 60 miles away, but our guide assured us we would reach its edge tomorrow. The sight of this land, our only hope for food, greatly lifted the spirits of the group, which had already been weakened by a lack of supplies. The area was densely covered with a thick growth of pine, and I noted 8 distinct species. After leaving the ridge, we ascended and descended several steep mountains over the next 6 miles until we hit a creek about 15 yards wide. Our course was S. 35 W., and we continued along the creek for 6 miles, passing two of its branches that flowed in from the north: the first at the point we hit the creek and the other 3 miles farther on. The path along this creek was extremely dangerous, being a narrow, rocky trail mostly along a steep cliff; in many places, either a man or a horse would surely be smashed to pieces if they fell off. Frazier's horse fell from this path in the evening, rolling with its load nearly a hundred yards into the creek. We all feared that the horse was dead, but to our surprise, once the load was removed, it got back on its feet and seemed only slightly hurt. In 20 minutes, it continued on with its load. This was the most amazing escape I’ve ever seen; the hill it rolled down was nearly vertical and littered with large, irregular rocks. The creek flowed westward, and we set up camp on the starboard side in a small ravine after traveling 18 miles over very rough terrain. We took a small amount of portable soup and went to bed, feeling quite exhausted. Several of the men are unwell with dysentery, and skin eruptions have also been common with us for a while now.
[Clark, September 19, 1805]
Tuesday 19th Septr. 1805 Set out early proceeded on up the Creek passing through a Small glade at 6 miles at which place we found a horse. I derected him killed and hung up for the party after takeing a brackfast off for our Selves which we thought fine after Brackfast proceed on up the Creek two miles & left it to our right passed over a mountain, and the heads of branch of hungary Creek, two high mountains, ridges and through much falling timber (which caused our road of to day to be double the derect distance on the Course) Struck a large Creek passing to our left which I Kept down for 4 miles and left it to our left & passed over a mountain bad falling timber to a Small Creek passing to our left and Encamped. I killed 2 Pheasents, but fiew birds Blue jay, Small white headed hawk, Some Crows & ravins & large hawks. road bad.
Tuesday, September 19, 1805. We set out early and made our way up the creek, passing through a small clearing after 6 miles, where we found a horse. I directed that it be killed and hung up for the group after we took a breakfast for ourselves, which we thought was nice. After breakfast, we continued up the creek for two miles and left it to our right, crossing over a mountain and the heads of a branch of Hungry Creek, navigating two high mountains, ridges, and through a lot of fallen timber (which made our route today twice the direct distance we intended). We came across a large creek on our left, which I followed downstream for 4 miles before leaving it behind and crossing over another mountain with more fallen timber to a small creek on our left where we set up camp. I killed 2 pheasants, but there were few birds: a blue jay, a small white-headed hawk, some crows and ravens, and large hawks. The road was bad.
[Lewis, September 20, 1805]
Friday September 20th 1805. This morning my attention was called to a species of bird which I had never seen before. It was reather larger than a robbin, tho much it's form and action. the colours were a blueish brown on the back the wings and tale black, as wass a stripe above the croop 3/4 of an inch wide in front of the neck, and two others of the same colour passed from it's eyes back along the sides of the head. the top of the head, neck brest and belley and butts of the wing were of a fine yellowish brick reed. it was feeding on the buries of a species of shoemake or ash which grows common in country & which I first observed on 2d of this month. I have also observed two birds of a blue colour both of which I believe to be of the haulk or vulter kind. the one of a blue shining colour with a very high tuft of feathers on the head a long tale, it feeds on flesh the beak and feet black. it's note is cha-ah, cha-ah. it is about the size of a pigeon; and in shape and action resembles the jay bird.- another bird of very similar genus, the note resembling the mewing of the cat, with a white head and a light blue colour is also common, as are a black species of woodpecker about the size of the lark woodpecker Three species of Pheasants, a large black species, with some white feathers irregularly scattered on the brest neck and belley a smaller kind of a dark uniform colour with a red stripe above the eye, and a brown and yellow species that a good deel resembles the phesant common to the Atlantic States. we were detained this morning untill ten oclock in consequence of not being enabled to collect our horses. we had proceeded about 2 miles when we found the greater part of a horse which Capt Clark had met with and killed for us. he informed me by note that he should proceed as fast as possible to the leavel country which lay to the S. W. of us, which we discovered from the hights of the mountains on the 19th there he intended to hunt untill our arrival. at one oclock we halted and made a hearty meal on our horse beef much to the comfort of our hungry stomachs. here I larnt that one of the Packhorses with his load was missing and immediately dispatched Baptiest Lapage who had charge of him, to surch for him. he returned at ;3 OC. without the horse. The load of the horse was of considerable value consisting of merchandize and all my stock of winter cloathing. I therefore dispatched two of my best woodsmen in surch of him, and proceeded with the party. Our rout lay through a thick forrest of large pine the general course being S. 25 W. and distance about 15 miles. our road was much obstructed by fallen timber particularly in the evening we encamped on a ridge where ther was but little grass for our horses, and at a distance from water. however we obtained as much as served our culinary purposes and suped on our beef. the soil as you leave the hights of the mountains becomes gradually more fertile. the land through which we passed this evening is of an excellent quality tho very broken, it is a dark grey soil. a grey free stone appearing in large masses above the earth in many places. saw the hucklebury, honeysuckle, and alder common to the Atlantic states, also a kind of honeysuckle which bears a white bury and rises about 4 feet high not common but to the western side of the rockey mountains. a growth which resembles the choke cherry bears a black bury with a single stone of a sweetish taste, it rises to the hight of 8 or 10 feet and grows in thick clumps. the Arborvita is also common and grows to an immence size, being from 2 to 6 feet in diameter.
Friday, September 20th, 1805. This morning, I noticed a type of bird I had never seen before. It was slightly larger than a robin, though similar in shape and behavior. Its back was a bluish-brown, with black wings and tail, and there was a stripe about 3/4 of an inch wide on the front of its neck. Two additional stripes of the same color ran from its eyes back along the sides of its head. The top of its head, neck, breast, belly, and the underparts of its wings were a fine yellowish-brick red. It was feeding on the berries of a type of shoemake or ash that grows commonly in this area, which I first observed on the 2nd of this month. I also spotted two blue-colored birds, both of which I believe are a type of hawk or vulture. One had a shiny blue color with a very tall tuft of feathers on its head and a long tail; it feeds on flesh and has black beak and feet. Its call is "cha-ah, cha-ah." It is about the size of a pigeon and resembles a jay in shape and behavior. Another bird of a very similar type makes a noise like a cat mewing, has a white head, and is light blue in color; it is also common. There is a black species of woodpecker about the size of a lark woodpecker, as well as three species of pheasants: a large black one with some white feathers irregularly scattered on its breast, neck, and belly; a smaller, uniformly dark one with a red stripe above the eye; and a brown and yellow type that closely resembles the pheasant common to the Atlantic States. We were delayed this morning until ten o'clock because we couldn’t gather our horses. We had gone about 2 miles when we found most of a horse that Captain Clark had killed for us. He informed me in a note that he would head quickly to the level country located to the southwest, which we had spotted from the mountain heights on the 19th. He intended to hunt there until we arrived. At one o'clock, we stopped and enjoyed a hearty meal of horse beef, which greatly satisfied our hungry stomachs. Here I learned that one of the pack horses and its load was missing, so I immediately sent Baptiste Lapage, who was in charge of it, to search for him. He returned at 3 o'clock without the horse. The horse had a valuable load consisting of merchandise and all my winter clothing. Therefore, I sent two of my best woodsmen to search for him while I continued with the rest of the party. Our route went through a thick forest of large pines, generally heading S. 25 W. and covering about 15 miles. Our path was heavily obstructed by fallen timber, particularly in the evening when we camped on a ridge with little grass for our horses and at a distance from water. However, we managed to get enough for our cooking needs and had supper on our beef. The soil becomes gradually more fertile as you move away from the mountain heights. The land we passed through this evening is of excellent quality, although very uneven, consisting of dark grey soil. A grey freestone appeared in large masses above ground in many places. I observed huckleberries, honeysuckles, and alders typical of the Atlantic states, as well as a kind of honeysuckle that bears a white berry and grows about 4 feet high, which is not common but found only on the western side of the Rocky Mountains. A plant resembling chokecherry bears a black berry with a single stone and a sweetish taste; it grows to a height of 8 to 10 feet and in thick clumps. The Arborvitae is also common and can grow to an immense size, reaching from 2 to 6 feet in diameter.
[Clark, September 20, 1805]
Wednesday 20th September 1805 I Set out early and proceeded on through a Countrey as ruged as usial passed over a low mountain into the forks of a large Creek which I kept down 2 miles and assended a Steep mountain leaveing the Creek to our left hand passed the head of Several dreans on a divideing ridge, and at 12 miles decended the mountain to a leavel pine Countrey proceeded on through a butifull Countrey for three miles to a Small Plain in which I found maney Indian lodges, at the distance of 1 mile from the lodges I met 3 boys, when they Saw me ran and hid themselves searched found gave them Small pieces of ribin & Sent them forward to the village a man Came out to meet me with;great Caution & Conducted us to a large Spacious Lodge which he told me (by Signs) was the Lodge of his great Chief who had Set out 3 days previous with all the Warriers of the nation to war on a South West derection & would return in 15 or 18 days. the fiew men that were left in the Village aged, great numbers of women geathered around me with much apparent Signs of fear, and apr. pleased they gave us a Small piece of Buffalow meat, Some dried Salmon beries & roots in different States, Some round and much like an onion which they call quamash the Bread or Cake is called Passhe-co Sweet, of this they make bread & Supe they also gave us the bread made of this root all of which we eate hartily, I gave them a fiew Small articles as preasents, and proceeded on with a Chief to his Village 2 miles in the Same Plain, where we were treated kindly in their way and continued with them all night Those two Villages consist of about 30 double lodges, but fiew men a number of women & children; They call themselves Cho pun-nish or Pierced Noses; " their dialect appears verry different from the Tushapaws altho origneally the Same people" They are darker than the Tushapaws Their dress Similar, with more beads white & blue principally, brass & Copper in different forms, Shells and ware their haire in the Same way. they are large Portley men Small women & handsom fetued Emence quantity of the quawmash or Pas-shi-co root gathered & in piles about the plains, those roots grow much an onion in marshey places the seed are in triangular Shell on the Stalk. they Sweat them in the following manner i. e. dig a large hole 3 feet deep Cover the bottom with Split wood on the top of which they lay Small Stones of about 3 or 4 Inches thick, a Second layer of Splited wood & Set the whole on fire which heats the Stones, after the fire is extinguished they lay grass & mud mixed on the Stones, on that dry grass which Supports the Pash-Shi-co root a thin Coat of the Same grass is laid on the top, a Small fire is kept when necessary in the Center of the kite &c.
Wednesday, September 20, 1805 I set out early and made my way through a rugged country as usual, passing over a low mountain into the forks of a large creek. I followed it down for 2 miles and climbed a steep mountain, leaving the creek to my left. I passed the heads of several streams on a dividing ridge, and after 12 miles, I descended the mountain into a flat pine area. I continued through beautiful countryside for three miles to a small plain where I found many Indian lodges. One mile from the lodges, I encountered three boys. When they saw me, they ran and hid, but I searched for them, found them, gave them small pieces of ribbon, and sent them ahead to the village. A man came out to meet me with great caution and led us to a large, spacious lodge, which he indicated (by signs) was the lodge of his great chief. He told me that the chief had set out three days earlier with all the warriors of the nation to go to war in a southwest direction and would return in 15 or 18 days. The few men left in the village were older, and a large number of women gathered around me, showing signs of fear and some pleasure. They offered us a small piece of buffalo meat, some dried salmon, berries, and roots in various states, including a round root that looks like an onion and is called quamash. The bread or cake made from this root is called passhe-co. They made bread and soup from this, and they also offered us the bread made from this root, all of which we ate heartily. I gave them a few small items as gifts and continued with a chief to his village 2 miles away in the same plain, where we were treated kindly in their way and stayed with them all night. Those two villages consist of about 30 double lodges, but there are few men and many women and children. They call themselves Cho pun-nish or Pierced Noses; their dialect seems very different from the Tushapaws although they are originally the same people. They are darker than the Tushapaws, their dress is similar but with more white and blue beads, mainly made of brass and copper in various forms, shells, and they style their hair the same way. They are large, portly men, while the women are small and have handsome features. A considerable quantity of quamash or passhe-co root is gathered and piled about the plains; these roots grow much like onions in marshy areas, and the seeds are in a triangular shell on the stalk. They prepare them by digging a large hole 3 feet deep, covering the bottom with split wood, on top of which they place small stones about 3 or 4 inches thick. They add a second layer of split wood and set the whole thing on fire to heat the stones. After the fire is extinguished, they lay grass and mud mixed on the stones, then on that dry grass, they support the passhe-co root with a thin layer of the same grass laid on top. A small fire is maintained when necessary in the center of the kit, etc.
I find myself verry unwell all the evening from eateing the fish & roots too freely. Sent out the hunters they killed nothing Saw Some Signs of deer.
I feel really unwell all evening from eating the fish & roots too much. I sent out the hunters; they didn't catch anything but did see some signs of deer.
[Lewis, September 21, 1805]
Saturday September 21st 1805. We were detained this morning untill 11 OCk. in consequence of not being able to collect our horses. we then set out and proceeded along the ridge on which we had encamped, leaving which at 11/2 we passed a large creek runing to the left just above it's junction with another which run parrallel with and on the left of our road before we struck the creek; through the level wide and heavy timbered bottom of this creek we proceeded about 21/2 miles when bearing to the right we passed a broken country heavily timbered great quantities of which had fallen and so obstructed our road that it was almost impracticable to proceed in many places. though these hills we proceeded about 5 Ms. when we passed a small creek on which Capt Clark encamped on the 19th passing this creek we continued our rout 5 Ms thro a similar country when we struck a large creek at the forks, passed the Northen branch and continued down it on the West side 1 mile and encamped in a small open bottom where there was tolerable food for our horses. I directed the horses to be hubbled to prevent delay in the morning being determined to make a forced march tomorrow in order to reach if possible the open country. we killed a few Pheasants, and I killd a prarie woolf which together with the ballance of our horse beef and some crawfish which we obtained in the creek enabled us to make one more hearty meal, not knowing where the next was to be found. the Arborvita increases in quantity and size. I saw several sticks today large enough to form eligant perogues of at least 45 feet in length.—I find myself growing weak for the want of food and most of the men complain of a similar deficiency and have fallen off very much. the general course of this day S 30 W 15M.
Saturday, September 21, 1805. We were held up this morning until 11 o'clock because we couldn't gather our horses. We then set out, traveling along the ridge where we had camped. At 1:30, we passed a large creek running to the left, just above its junction with another creek that ran parallel to the left of our road before we reached it. We moved through the wide, low area filled with heavy timber along this creek for about 2.5 miles. When we veered to the right, we encountered a rugged, heavily wooded area, with many fallen trees blocking our path, making it nearly impossible to proceed in several spots. After traversing the hills for about 5 miles, we crossed a small creek where Captain Clark had camped on the 19th. After passing this creek, we continued our route for another 5 miles through a similar landscape until we reached a large creek at the forks. We crossed the northern branch and followed the western side for 1 mile, setting up camp in a small clearing where there was decent food for our horses. I ordered the horses to be hobbled to avoid any delays in the morning, as I was determined to make a long march tomorrow to try and reach open country. We managed to hunt a few pheasants, and I killed a prairie wolf, which, along with the remainder of our horse beef and some crawfish we found in the creek, allowed us to have one more hearty meal, not knowing when we would find our next one. The Arborvita has been growing in both quantity and size; I noticed several sticks today that were large enough to make elegant perogues of at least 45 feet in length. I'm starting to feel weak from lack of food, and most of the men are complaining of the same issue and have significantly lost strength. The general direction of our travel today was S 30 W for 15 miles.
[Clark, September 21, 1805]
Septr. 21st Saturday 1805 a fine morning Sent out all the hunters early in different directions to Kill Something and delayed with the Indians to prevent Suspicion & to acquire as much information as possible. one of them Drew me a Chart of the river & nations below informed of one falls below which the white men lived from whome they got white beeds cloth &c. &c. The day proved warm, 2 Chifs of Bands visited me to day—the hunters all returned without any thing, I collected a horse load of roots & 3 Sammon & Sent R Fields with one Indian to meet Capt Lewis at 4 oClock Set out with the other men to the river, passed thro a fine Pine Country decended a Steep ruged hill verry long to a Small river which comes from our left and I suppose it to be ____ River passed down the river 2 miles on a Steep hill side at r r oClock P.M. arrived at a camp of 5 Squars a boy & 2 Children those people were glad to See us & gave us drid Sammon one had formerly been taken by the Minitarries of the north & Seen white men, our guide called the Chief who was fishing on the other Side of the river, whome I found a Cherfull man of about 65 I gave him a Medal.
Sept. 21st Saturday 1805 A nice morning. I sent out all the hunters early in different directions to catch something and stayed back with the Indians to avoid raising suspicion and to gather as much information as possible. One of them drew me a map of the river and the nations downstream, informing me about a waterfall below which the white men lived, from whom they obtained white beads, cloth, etc. The day was warm. Two chiefs of bands visited me today—the hunters all returned empty-handed. I gathered a horse load of roots and three salmon and sent R. Fields with one Indian to meet Capt. Lewis at 4 o'clock. I set out with the other men to the river, passed through a nice pine area, and descended a steep, rugged hill for quite a while down to a small river which came from our left, and I believe it to be ____ River. We went down the river for 2 miles along a steep hillside and at about 4 o'clock P.M. arrived at a camp of 5 women, a boy, and 2 children. These people were happy to see us and gave us dried salmon. One had previously been taken by the missionaries from the north and had seen white men. Our guide called to the chief, who was fishing on the other side of the river, and I found him to be a cheerful man of about 65. I gave him a medal.
[Clark, September 21, 1805]
Thursday 21st Septr. 1805 A fine morning Sent out all the hunters in different directions to hunt deer, I myself delayd with the Chief to prevent Suspission and to Collect by Signs as much information as possible about the river and Countrey in advance. The Cheif drew me a kind of chart of the river, and informed me that a greater Cheif than himself was fishing at the river half a days march from his village called the twisted hare, and that the river forked a little below his Camp and at a long distance below & below 2 large forks one from the left & the other from the right the river passed thro'gh the mountains at which place was a great fall of the water passing through the rocks, at those falls white people lived from whome they preceured the white Beeds & Brass &c. which the womin wore; a Chief of another band visit me to day and Smoked a pipe, I gave my handkerchief & a Silver Cord with a little Tobacco to those Chiefs, The hunters all return without any thing, I purchased as much Provisions as I could with what fiew things I chaned to have in my Pockets, Such a Salmon Bread roots & berries, & Sent one man R. Fields with an Indian to meet Capt. Lewis, and at 4 oClock P M. Set out to the river, met a man at dark on his way from the river to the village, whome I hired and gave the neck handkerchief of one of the men, to polit me to the Camp of the twisted hare we did not arrive at the Camp of the Twisted hare but oppost, untill half past 11 oClock P M. found at this Camp five Squars & 3 Children. my guide called to the Chief who was Encamped with 2 others on a Small Island in the river, he Soon joind me, I found him a Chearfull man with apparant Siencerity, I gave him a medal &c. and Smoked untill 1 oClock a.m. and went to Sleep. The Countrey from the mountains to the river hills is a leavel rich butifull Pine Countrey badly watered, thinly timbered & covered with grass—The weather verry worm after decending into the low Countrey,- the river hills are verry high & Steep, Small bottoms to this little river which is Flat head & is 160 yards wide and Sholey This river is the one we killed the first Coalt on near a fishing were I am verry Sick to day and puke which relive me.
Thursday, September 21, 1805 It was a nice morning. I sent all the hunters out in different directions to look for deer. I stayed back with the Chief to avoid arousing suspicion and to gather as much information as I could about the river and the area ahead. The Chief drew me a sort of map of the river and told me that a greater Chief than himself was fishing at the river, a half-day's walk from his village, called the Twisted Hare. He mentioned that the river split a little below his camp and, further down, there were two large forks—one coming from the left and the other from the right. The river went through the mountains, where there was a significant waterfall crashing through the rocks, and at those falls, white people lived, from whom they got the white beads and brass that the women wore. Another Chief visited me today and we smoked a pipe. I gave my handkerchief and a silver cord along with a bit of tobacco to those Chiefs. All the hunters returned empty-handed. I bought as many provisions as I could with the few items I had in my pockets, such as salmon, bread, roots, and berries. I sent one man, R. Fields, with an Indian to meet Captain Lewis, and at 4 PM, we set out for the river. I encountered a man in the dark on his way from the river to the village; I hired him and gave him the neck handkerchief of one of the men to guide me to the camp of the Twisted Hare. We didn't reach the Twisted Hare Camp but stopped nearby until half past 11 PM. At this camp, I found five women and three children. My guide called out to the Chief, who was camped with two others on a small island in the river. He soon joined me, and I found him to be a cheerful man with clear sincerity. I gave him a medal, and we smoked until 1 AM before I went to sleep. The area from the mountains to the river hills is level and rich with beautiful pine trees, but poorly watered, thinly timbered, and covered in grass. The weather was very warm after we descended into the low country. The river hills are very high and steep, with small bottoms to this little river, which is Flathead and is 160 yards wide and shallow. This river is where we killed the first coal near a fishing spot. I am very sick today and am vomiting, which brings me some relief.
[Lewis, September 22, 1805]
Sunday September 22cd 1805. Notwithstanding my positive directions to hubble the horses last evening one of the men neglected to comply. he plead ignorance of the order. this neglect however detained us untill 1/2 after eleven OCk at which time we renewed our march, our course being about west. we had proceeded about two and a half miles when we met Reubin Fields one of oure hunters, whom Capt. Clark had dispatched to meet us with some dryed fish and roots that he had procured from a band of Indians, whose lodges were about eight miles in advance. I ordered the party to halt for the purpose of taking some refreshment. I divided the fish roots and buries, and was happy to find a sufficiency to satisfy compleatly all our appetites. Fields also killed a crow after refreshing ourselves we proceeded to the village due West 71/2 Miles where we arrived at 5 OCk. in the afternoon our rout was through lands heavily timbered, the larger wood entirely pine. the country except the last 3 miles was broken and decending the pleasure I now felt in having tryumphed over the rocky Mountains and decending once more to a level and fertile country where there was every rational hope of finding a comfortable subsistence for myself and party can be more readily conceived than expressed, nor was the flattering prospect of the final success of the expedition less pleasing. on our approach to the village which consisted of eighteen lodges most of the women fled to the neighbouring woods on horseback with their children, a circumstance I did not expect as Capt. Clark had previously been with them and informed them of our pacific intentions towards them and also the time at which we should most probably arrive. the men seemed but little concerned, and several of them came to meet us at a short distance from their lodges unarmed.
Sunday, September 22, 1805. Despite my clear instructions to get the horses ready last night, one of the men failed to do so. He claimed he didn’t know about the order. This oversight held us up until half past eleven, at which point we resumed our march, heading about west. We had traveled about two and a half miles when we encountered Reubin Fields, one of our hunters, whom Capt. Clark had sent to find us with some dried fish and roots he had obtained from a group of Indians whose lodges were about eight miles ahead. I ordered the party to stop so we could take a break. I distributed the fish, roots, and berries and was pleased to find enough to completely satisfy all our hunger. Fields also shot a crow, and after our break, we continued toward the village, which was due west, seven and a half miles away, arriving at 5 o'clock in the afternoon. Our route led us through heavily forested areas, mostly pine trees. The terrain, except for the last three miles, was uneven and sloping. The joy I felt in having overcome the Rocky Mountains and descending once again into a flat and fertile area, where there was every reasonable hope of finding a comfortable living for myself and the party, is hard to put into words. The promising outlook for the success of our expedition was just as encouraging. As we got closer to the village, which had eighteen lodges, most of the women fled on horseback into the nearby woods with their children, something I hadn’t expected since Capt. Clark had previously visited them and told them about our peaceful intentions and the approximate time of our arrival. The men didn’t seem too worried, and several came out to greet us from a short distance away, unarmed.
[Clark, September 22, 1805]
September 22nd Sunday 1805 a fine morning, I proceed on down the little river to about 11/2 a mile & found the Chif in a Canoe Comeing to meet me I got into his Canoe & Crossed over to his Camp on a Small Island at a rapid Sent out the hunters leaving one to take care of the baggage, & after eating a part of a Samn. I Set out on my return to meet Capt. Lewis with the Chief & his Son at 2 miles met Shields with 3 Deer, I took a Small peice & Changed for his horse which was fresh & proced on this horse threw me 3 times which hurt me Some. at Dark met Capt Lewis Encamped at the first Village men much fatigued & reduced, the Supply which I sent by R Flds. was timely, they all eate hartily of roots & fish, 2 horses lost 1 Days journey back
September 22nd, Sunday 1805. It was a nice morning. I traveled down the little river for about a mile and a half and met the Chief in a canoe coming to greet me. I got into his canoe and crossed over to his camp on a small island at a rapid. I sent out the hunters, leaving one to watch the baggage, and after eating a portion of salmon, I started my return to meet Captain Lewis with the Chief and his son. Two miles in, I met Shields with three deer. I took a small piece and traded it for his fresh horse, which ended up throwing me off three times, causing me some pain. At dark, I met Captain Lewis, who was camped at the first village. The men were very tired and worn out. The supplies I sent with R. Flds. were timely; they all ate heartily of roots and fish. We lost two horses, which set us back a day’s journey.
[Clark, September 22, 1805]
Friday 22nd Septr. 1805 a verry worm day the hunters Shild killed 3 Deer this morning. I left them on the Island and Set out with the Chief & his Son on a young horse for the Village at which place I expected to meet Capt Lewis this young horse in fright threw himself & me 3 times on the Side of a Steep hill & hurt my hip much, Cought a Coalt which we found on the roade & I rode it for Several miles untill we saw the Chiefs horses, he cought one & we arrived at his Village at Sunset, & himself and myslf walked up to the 2d Village where I found Capt Lewis & the party Encamped, much fatigued, & hungery, much rejoiced to find something to eate of which They appeared to partake plentifully. I cautioned them of the Consequences of eateing too much &c.
Friday, September 22, 1805 was a very warm day. The hunters killed three deer this morning. I left them on the island and set out with the chief and his son on a young horse for the village where I expected to meet Captain Lewis. This young horse, in fright, threw me off three times on the side of a steep hill and hurt my hip badly. I caught a colt that we found on the road and rode it for several miles until we saw the chief's horses. He caught one, and we arrived at his village at sunset. He and I walked up to the second village where I found Captain Lewis and the party encamped, very fatigued and hungry. They were very relieved to find some food, which they happily ate plenty of. I warned them about the consequences of eating too much, etc.
The planes appeared covered with Spectators viewing the White men and the articles which we had, our party weacke and much reduced in flesh as well as Strength, The horse I left hung up they receved at a time they were in great want, and the Supply I Sent by R. Fields proved timely and gave great encouragement to the party with Captn. Lewis. he lost 3 horses one of which belonged to our guide. Those Indians Stole out of R. F. Shot pouch his knife wipers Compas & Steel, which we Could not precure from them, we attempted to have Some talk with those people but Could not for the want of an Interpreter thro which we Could Speake, we were Compelled to converse Altogether by Signs—I got the Twisted hare to draw the river from his Camp down which he did with great cherfullness on a white Elk Skin, from the 1s fork which is a few seven miles below, to the large fork on which the So So ne or Snake Indians fish, is South 2 Sleeps; to a large river which falls in on the N W. Side and into which The Clarks river empties itself is 5 Sleeps from the mouth of that river to the falls is 5 Sleeps at the falls he places Establishments of white people &c. and informs that great numbers of Indians reside on all those foks as well as the main river; one other Indian gave me a like account of the Countrey, Some few drops of rain this evening. I precured maps of the Country & river with the Situation of Indians, To come from Several men of note Seperately which varied verey little.
The planes were filled with spectators watching the white men and the supplies we had. Our group was weak and had lost a lot of strength and weight. The horse I had left was received at a time when they were greatly in need, and the supplies I sent with R. Fields were timely and gave a lot of encouragement to Captain Lewis's party. He lost three horses, one of which belonged to our guide. Those Indians stole R. F.'s shot pouch, his knife, wipers, compass, and steel, which we couldn’t get back from them. We tried to communicate with these people but couldn’t because we didn’t have an interpreter to speak for us, so we had to rely completely on signs. I asked the Twisted Hare to draw a map of the river from his camp, which he did with great enthusiasm on a piece of white elk skin. From the first fork, which is about seven miles down, to the large fork where the So So ne or Snake Indians fish, it’s a two-day journey to a large river that falls in from the northwest side and into which the Clark's River empties. It takes five days from the mouth of that river to the falls, and at the falls, he marked where white settlements are located, telling us that many Indians live along all those forks and the main river. Another Indian gave me a similar account of the area. We had a few drops of rain this evening. I obtained maps of the region and river, showing the locations of Indians, from several notable men separately, which varied very little.
[Clark, September 23, 1805]
Septr. 23rd Sunday Traded with the Indians, made 3 Chiefs and gave them meadels & Tobacco & Handkerchif & knives, and a flag & left a Flag & hand kerches for the great Chief when he returns from war, in the evening proceeded to the 2d Vilg 2 miles, a hard wind and rain at dark, traded for Some root Bread & Skins to make Shirts. hot day
Sept. 23rd Sunday Traded with the Native Americans, made 3 Chiefs and gave them medals, tobacco, handkerchiefs, and knives, along with a flag. Left a flag and handkerchiefs for the great Chief when he returns from war. In the evening, headed to the 2nd Village, 2 miles away, faced a strong wind and rain at night. Traded for some root bread and skins to make shirts. It was a hot day.
[Clark, September 23, 1805]
Saturday 23rd Septr 1805. We assembled the principal Men as well as the Chiefs and by Signs informed them where we came from where bound our wish to inculcate peace and good understanding between all the red people &c. which appeared to Satisfy them much, we then gave 2 other Medals to other Chefs of bands, a flag to the twisted hare, left a flag & Handkerchief to the grand Chief gave, a Shirt to the Twisted hare & a knife & Handkerchif with a Small pece of Tobacco to each. Finding that those people gave no provisions to day we deturmined to purchase with our Small articles of merchindize, accord we purchased all we could, Such as roots dried, in bread, & in ther raw State, Berris of red Haws & Fish and in the evening Set out and proceeded on to the 2d Village 2 miles dist. where we also purchased a few articles all amounting to as much as our weak horses Could Carry to the river Capt. Lewis & 2 men verry Sick this evening, my hip verry Painfull, the men trade a few old tin Canisters for dressed Elk Skin to make themselves Shirts, at dark a hard wind from The S W accompaned with rain which lasted half an hour. The twisted hare envited Capt Lewis & myself to his lodge which was nothin more than Pine bushes & bark, and gave us Some broiled dried Salmon to eate, great numbers about us all night at this village the women were busily employed in gathering and drying the Pas-she co root of which they had great quantites dug in piles
Saturday, September 23, 1805. We gathered the main leaders and the chiefs and communicated through gestures to explain where we came from, where we were headed, and our desire to promote peace and understanding among all the Native people, which seemed to satisfy them greatly. We then presented two more medals to other chiefs of different bands, a flag to the Twisted Hare, left a flag and handkerchief to the grand chief, gave a shirt to the Twisted Hare, and a knife and handkerchief along with a small piece of tobacco to each of them. Noticing that these people didn't provide any food today, we decided to buy provisions with our small items of merchandise. We purchased everything we could, such as dried roots, bread, raw foods, berries, red haws, and fish. In the evening, we set out and continued to the second village two miles away, where we bought a few more items, enough for our weak horses to carry to the river. Captain Lewis and two men were quite sick this evening, and my hip was very painful. The men traded a few old tin canisters for dressed elk skin to make themselves shirts. At dark, a strong wind from the southwest came with rain that lasted half an hour. The Twisted Hare invited Captain Lewis and me to his lodge, which was nothing more than pine branches and bark, and served us some broiled dried salmon to eat. There were many people around us all night at this village, while the women were busy gathering and drying the Pas-she co root, of which they had great quantities dug in piles.
[Clark, September 24, 1805]
Septr. 24th Monday 1805 Set out early for the river and proceeded on the Same road I had prevsly gorn to the Island at which place I had found the Chief & formed a Camp several 8 or 9 men Sick, Capt Lewis Sick all Complain of a Lax & heaviness at the Stomack, I gave rushes Pills to Several hot day maney Indians & thier gangues of horses follow us hot day Hunter had 5 Deer
Sept. 24th, Monday, 1805: Set out early for the river and continued on the same road I had previously taken to the island, where I found the Chief and set up camp. Several of the 8 or 9 men are sick, including Captain Lewis, and all are complaining of diarrhea and heaviness in their stomachs. I gave some pills to several of them. It was a hot day, and many Indians and their groups of horses followed us. The hunter brought in 5 deer.
[Clark, September 24, 1805]
Sunday 24th Septr. 1805 a fine morning collected our horses despatched J. Colter back to hunt the horses lost in the mountains & bring up Some Shot left behind, and at 10 oClock we all Set out for the river and proceeded on by the Same rout I had previously traveled, and at Sunset We arrived at the Island on which I found the Twisted hare and formed a Camp on a large Island a littl below, Capt Lewis Scercely able to ride on a jentle horse which was furnishd by the Chief, Several men So unwell that they were Compelled to lie on the Side of the road for Some time others obliged to be put on horses. I gave rushes Pills to the Sick this evening. Several Indians follow us.
Sunday, September 24, 1805, was a beautiful morning. We gathered our horses and sent J. Colter back to look for the horses lost in the mountains and to retrieve some equipment left behind. At 10 o’clock, we all set out for the river and followed the same route I had traveled before. By sunset, we arrived at the island where I found the twisted hare and set up camp on a large island a little below. Captain Lewis could barely ride on a gentle horse provided by the chief. Several men were feeling unwell and had to rest by the side of the road for a while, while others had to be helped onto horses. I gave the sick some rushes pills this evening. Several Indians followed us.
[Clark, September 25, 1805]
Septr. 25th I with th Chief & 2 young men went down to hunt timber for Canoes—proceeded on down to the forks 4 miles N 70° W 2 miles S. 75°W 2 miles, halted young men Cought 6 Sammon, the forks nearly the Same Size, Crossed the South fork & found Timber large Pine in a bottom Proceeded up the South Side 3 parts of Party Sick Capt Lewis verry Sick hot day
Sept. 25th, I went with the Chief and 2 young men to hunt for timber for canoes. We went down to the forks, traveling 4 miles North 70° West, then 2 miles South 75° West, and 2 more miles. We stopped as the young men caught 6 salmon; the forks were almost the same size. We crossed the South fork and found large pine timber in a bottom. Then we moved up the South side, but 3 members of the party were sick and Captain Lewis was very ill on this hot day.
[Clark, September 25, 1805]
Monday 25th of September 1805 a verry hot day most of the Party Complaining and 2 of our hunters left here on the 22nd verry Sick they had killed only two Bucks in my absence. I Set out early with the Chief and 2 young men to hunt Some trees Calculated to build Canoes, as we had previously deturmined to proceed on by water, I was furnished with a horse and we proceeded on down the river Crossed a Creek at 1 mile from the right verry rockey which I call rock dam Creek & Passed down on the N side of the river to a fork from the North which is about the Same Size and affords about the Same quantity of water with the other forks we halted about an hour, one of the young men took his guilt and killed 6 fine Salmon two of them were roasted and we eate, two Canoes Came up loaded with the furnitur & provisions of 2 families, those Canoes are long Stedy and without much rake I crossed the South fork and proceeded up on the South Side, the most of the way thro a narrow Pine bottom in which I Saw fine timber for Canoes one of the Indian Canoes with 2 men with Poles Set out from the forks at the Same time I did and arrived at our Camp on the Island within 15 minits of the Same time I did, not withstanding 3 rapids which they had to draw the Canoe thro in the distance, when I arrived at Camp found Capt Lewis verry Sick, Several men also verry Sick, I gave Some Salts & Tarter emetic, we deturmined to go to where the best timbr was and there form a Camp
Monday, September 25, 1805, was a very hot day, and most of the party was complaining. Two of our hunters, who had left on the 22nd, were very sick; they had only killed two bucks while I was away. I set out early with the chief and two young men to look for trees suitable for building canoes, as we had previously decided to continue our journey by water. I was provided with a horse, and we traveled down the river. We crossed a creek, which I named Rock Dam Creek, after one mile on the rocky right side, and continued down the north side of the river to a fork that was about the same size and supplied a similar amount of water as the other forks. We paused for about an hour, and one of the young men took his gun and caught six fine salmon; we roasted two of them and ate. Two canoes arrived, loaded with the furniture and provisions of two families. These canoes were long, steady, and had little rake. I crossed the south fork and continued along the south side, mostly through a narrow pine area where I noticed good timber for canoes. One of the Indian canoes, carrying two men with poles, set out from the forks at the same time I did and reached our camp on the island within 15 minutes of me, despite having to navigate three rapids with their canoe along the way. When I arrived at camp, I found Captain Lewis very sick, and several other men were also quite unwell. I gave some salts and tartar emetic, and we decided to head to where the best timber was and set up camp there.
[Clark, September 26, 1805]
Septr. 26th Set out early and proceeded down the river to the bottom on the S Side opposit the forks & formed a Camp had ax handled ground &c. our axes all too Small, Indians caught Sammon & Sold us, 2 Chiefs & thir families came & camped near us, Several men bad, Capt Lewis Sick I gave Pukes Salts &c. to Several, I am a little unwell. hot day
Sep 26th Set out early and went down the river to the bottom on the south side opposite the forks and set up camp. We had axes for the ground, but they were all too small. The Indians caught salmon and sold some to us. Two chiefs and their families came and camped nearby. Several men were sick, Captain Lewis was unwell, and I gave a few people some salts. I'm feeling a little under the weather. It was a hot day.
[Clark, September 26, 1805]
Tuesday 26th Septr. 1805 Set out early and proceeded on down the river to a bottom opposit the forks of the river on the South Side and formed a Camp. Soon after our arrival a raft Came down the N. fork on which was two men, they came too, I had the axes distributed and handled and men apotned. ready to commence building canoes on tomorrow, our axes are Small & badly Calculated to build Canoes of the large Pine, Capt Lewis Still very unwell, Several men taken Sick on the way down, I administered Salts Pils Galip, Tarter emetic &c. I feel unwell this evening, two Chiefs & their families follow us and encamp near us, they have great numbers of horses. This day proved verry hot, we purchase fresh Salmon of the Indians
Tuesday, September 26, 1805. We set out early and continued down the river to a flat area opposite the forks of the river on the south side, where we set up camp. Shortly after we arrived, a raft came down the north fork carrying two men. They approached us, and I distributed the axes and assigned tasks to the men in preparation for building canoes tomorrow. Our axes are small and not really suited for constructing canoes from the large pine trees. Captain Lewis is still feeling very ill, and several men have fallen sick on the journey down. I administered salts, pills, tartar emetic, etc. I'm not feeling great this evening either. Two chiefs and their families are following us and have set up camp nearby; they have a large number of horses. It was a very hot day, and we bought fresh salmon from the Indians.
[Clark, September 27, 1805]
Septr. 27th Thursday 1805 Set all the men able to work abt. building Canoes, Colter returned and found one horse & the Canister of Shot left in the mountains he also killed a Deer 1/2 of which he brought hot day—men Sick
Sep 27th, Thursday, 1805. Had all the able men working on building canoes. Colter came back and found one horse and the shot canister left in the mountains. He also killed a deer, and he brought back half of it. It was a hot day, and the men are sick.
[Clark, September 27, 1805]
27th Septr. Wednesday 1805 all the men able to work comened building 5 Canoes, Several taken Sick at work, our hunters returned Sick without meet. J. Colter returned he found only one of the lost horses, on his way killed a deer, half of which he gave the Indians the other proved nourishing to the Sick The day verry hot, we purchase fresh Salmon of them Several Indians Come up the river from a Camp Some distance below Capt Lewis very Sick nearly all the men Sick. our Shoshonee Indian Guide employed himself makeing flint points for his arrows
27th Septr. Wednesday 1805, all the men who were able to work started building 5 canoes. Several got sick while working, and our hunters returned ill without any meat. J. Colter came back having found only one of the lost horses; on his way, he killed a deer and gave half of it to the Indians, while the rest was nourishing for the sick. The day was very hot, and we bought fresh salmon from them. Several Indians came up the river from a camp some distance below. Capt. Lewis was very sick, and nearly all the men were unwell. Our Shoshonee Indian guide spent his time making flint points for his arrows.
[Clark, September 28, 1805]
Septr. 28th Friday Several men Sick all at work which is able, nothing killed to day. Drewyer Sick maney Indians visit us worm day
Septr. 28th Friday Several men are sick; all who are able are at work. Nothing was killed today. Drewyer is sick, and many Indians visited us on this warm day.
[Clark, September 28, 1805]
Thursday 28th Septr. 1805 Our men nearly all Complaining of ther bowels, a heaviness at the Stomach & Lax, Some of those taken first getting better, a number of Indians about us gazeing &c. &c. This day proved verry worm and Sultery, nothing killed men complaining of their diat of fish & roots. all that is able working at the Canoes, Several Indians leave us to day, the raft continue on down the river, one old man informed us that he had been to the White peoples fort at the falls & got white beeds &c his Story was not beleved as he Could explain nothing.
Thursday, September 28, 1805 Our men were mostly complaining of stomach issues, feeling heavy in the stomach, and having diarrhea. Some of those who got sick first were starting to feel better. A number of Indians were around us watching and so on. It was a really warm and sultry day; no game was killed, and the men were complaining about their diet of fish and roots. Everyone who was able was working on the canoes. Several Indians left us today. The raft continued downstream, and one old man told us that he had been to the white people’s fort at the falls and had gotten white beads, but his story wasn’t believed because he couldn’t explain anything clearly.
[Clark, September 29, 1805]
Septr. 29th Satterday Drewyer killed 2 deer Collins 1 der men Conte Sickly at work all able to work.
Sep 29th, Saturday: Drewyer killed 2 deer, Collins killed 1 deer. The men are sickly but still able to work.
[Clark, September 29, 1805]
Sunday 29th Septr. 1805 a Cool morning wind from the S. W. men Sick as usial, all The men that are able to at work, at the Canoes Drewyer killed 2 Deer Colter killed 1 Deer, the after part of this day worm Cap Lewis very Sick, and most of the men complaning very much of ther bowels & Stomach
Sunday, September 29, 1805: It was a cool morning with a breeze coming from the southwest. The men were sick as usual, but those who were able worked on the canoes. Drewyer killed 2 deer, and Colter killed 1 deer. By the end of the day, Captain Lewis was very sick, and most of the men were complaining a lot about their stomachs and bowels.
[Clark, September 30, 1805]
Sunday 30th Septr. 1805 Forks a fine morning our men recruting a little cool, all at work doing Something except 2 which are verry Sick, Great run of Small duck passing down the river this morning.
Sunday, September 30, 1805. Forks a nice morning. Our men are recovering a bit; it's a little cool. Everyone's working on something except for two who are very sick. There's a large flock of small ducks passing down the river this morning.
[Clark, September 30, 1805]
Septr. 30th Saturday (Monday) 1805 a fine fair morning a the men recruiting a little, all at work which are able. Great number of Small Ducks pass down the river this morning. maney Indians passing up and down the river.
Sep 30th Saturday (Monday) 1805 a nice clear morning, and the men are doing a bit of recruiting, all working who are able. A large number of small ducks are flying down the river this morning. Many Indians are passing up and down the river.
[Clark, October 1, 1805]
October 1st 1805 Tuesday a cool morning wind from the N. E. I examine & Dry all our article Cloths &. nothing to eate except Drid fish verry bad diet Capt Lewis getting much better than for Several days past Several Indians visit us from the different villages below and on the main fork S. nothing killed
October 1st, 1805, Tuesday. It was a cool morning with a wind from the northeast. I examined and dried all our cloth items, but we had nothing to eat except dried fish, which is a really bad diet. Captain Lewis is feeling much better than he has for the past several days. Several Indians visited us from different villages below and on the main fork south, but nothing was killed.
[Clark, October 1, 1805]
October 1st Tuesday 1805 A cool morning wind from the East had Examined and dried all our clothes and other articles and laid out a Small assortment of Such articles as those Indians were fond of to trade with them for Some provisions (they are remarkably fond of Beeds) nothin to eate except a little dried fish which they men complain of as working of them as as much as a dost of Salts. Capt Lewis getting much better. Several Indians visit us from the different tribes below Some from the main South fork our hunters killed nothing to day worm evening
October 1st, Tuesday, 1805 A cool morning breeze from the East dried all our clothes and other items and laid out a small selection of things that the Indians liked to trade for some food (they are especially fond of beads). There was nothing to eat except a little dried fish, which the men complain works on them like a dose of salts. Captain Lewis is feeling much better. Several Indians visit us from the different tribes below, some from the main South Fork. Our hunters didn’t catch anything today. Warm evening.
[Clark, October 2, 1805]
Oct. 2nd 1805 Wednesday dispatch 2 men & an Indian up to the villages we first Came too to purchase roots fish &c. nothing to eate but roots. gave a small pice of Tobacco to the Indians, 3 broachs & 2 rings with my Handkerchif divided between 5 of them. I walked on the hills to hunt to day, Saw only one deer, Could kill nothing day excesively hot in the river bottom wind North, Burning out the holler of our canoes, men Something better nothing except a Small Prarie wolf Killed to day, our Provisions all out except what fiew fish we purchase of the Indians with us; we kill a horse for the men at work to eate &c. &c.
Oct. 2nd, 1805, Wednesday Dispatch: Sent 2 men and an Indian to the nearby villages to buy roots, fish, etc. There's nothing to eat except roots. I gave a small piece of tobacco to the Indians, 3 brooches, and 2 rings, sharing my handkerchief among 5 of them. I went hunting in the hills today but only saw one deer and couldn’t kill anything; it was extremely hot in the river bottom with a north wind. We’re burning out the hollow of our canoes, and the men are doing somewhat better, but nothing except a small prairie wolf was killed today. We’re out of provisions except for a few fish we bought from the Indians who are with us; we killed a horse for the men to eat, etc., etc.
[Clark, October 2, 1805]
October 2nd Wednesday 1805 Despatched 2 men Frasure & S. Guterich back to the village with 1 Indian & 6 horses to purchase dried fish, roots &c. we have nothing to eate but roots, which give the men violent pains in their bowels after eating much of them. To the Indians who visited us yesterday I gave divided my Handkerchief between 5 of them, with a Small piece of tobacco & a pece of riebin & to the 2 principal men each a ring & brooch. I walked out with my gun on the hills which is verry Steep & high could kill nothing. day hot wind N. Hunters killed nothing excep a Small Prarie wolf. Provisions all out, which Compells us to kill one of our horses to eate and make Suep for the Sick men.
October 2nd, Wednesday, 1805. I sent two men, Frasure and S. Guterich, back to the village with one Indian and six horses to buy dried fish, roots, etc. We have nothing to eat except roots, which give the men severe stomach aches after they eat a lot. To the Indians who visited us yesterday, I split my handkerchief among five of them, along with a small piece of tobacco and a piece of ribbon. To the two main men, I gave each a ring and a brooch. I went out with my gun on the hills, which are very steep and high, but I couldn’t kill anything. It was hot and windy from the north. The hunters didn’t catch anything except a small prairie wolf. We have run out of provisions, which forces us to kill one of our horses to eat and make soup for the sick men.
[Clark, October 3, 1805]
October 3rd Thursday 1805 Canoe Camp a fair cool morning wind from the East all our men getting well and at work at the canoes &c.
October 3rd Thursday 1805 Canoe Camp a nice cool morning with a breeze coming from the East. All our men are recovering well and are busy working on the canoes, etc.
[Clark, October 3, 1805]
October 3rd Thursday 1805 a fine morning cool wind East all our men getting better in helth, and at work at the Canoes &. The Indians who visited us from below Set out on their return early. Several others Came from different directions
October 3rd Thursday 1805 a beautiful morning with a cool east wind, all our men feeling better and working on the canoes. The Indians who visited us from downriver left early to head back. Several others arrived from different directions.
[Clark, October 4, 1805]
October 4th 1805 Friday This morning is a little cool wind from the East. displeased an Indian by refuseing to let him have a pice of Tobacco. thre Inds. from the S. fork visit us Frasur and Guterich return from the village with fish roots &c. which they purchased
October 4th 1805 Friday This morning is a little cool with a breeze from the East. I upset an Indian by refusing to give him a piece of tobacco. Three Indians from the South Fork visited us. Frasur and Guterich returned from the village with fish, roots, etc., which they bought.
[Clark, October 4, 1805]
October 4th Friday 1805 a Cool wind from off the Eastern mountains I displeased an Indian by refuseing him a pice of Tobacco which he tooke the liberty to take out of our Sack Three Indians visit us from the Grat River South of us. The two men Frasure and Guterich return late from the Vllage with Fish roots &c. which they purchased as our horse is eaten we have nothing to eate except dried fish & roots which disagree with us verry much. The after part of this day verry warm. Capt Lewis Still Sick but able to walk about a little.
October 4th, Friday, 1805. A cool wind from the eastern mountains. I upset an Indian by refusing to give him a piece of tobacco, which he took from our sack without asking. Three Indians visited us from the Great River south of us. The two men, Frasure and Guterich, returned late from the village with fish, roots, etc., which they bought since our horse has been eaten and we have nothing to eat except dried fish and roots, which really don't sit well with us. The latter part of the day was very warm. Captain Lewis is still sick but able to walk around a bit.
[Clark, October 5, 1805]
October 5th Saturday 1805 a Cool morning wind from the East, Collected all our horses, & Branded them 38 in No. and delivered them to the men who were to take Charge of them, each of which I gave a Knife & one a wampom Shell gorget, The Lattd. of this place the mean of 2 observations is 46° 34' 56.3" North. nothing to eate but dried roots & Dried fish, Capt Lewis & my Self eate a Supper of roots boiled, which filled us So full of wind, that we were Scercely able to Breathe all night felt the effects of it. Lanced 2 Canoes to day one proved a little leakey the other a verry good one
October 5th, Saturday, 1805: It was a cool morning with a breeze coming from the east. We gathered all our horses, branded 38 of them, and handed them over to the men who would be in charge of them. I gave each man a knife, and one received a wampum shell gorget. The latitude of this place, from two observations, is 46° 34' 56.3" North. We had nothing to eat except dried roots and dried fish. Captain Lewis and I had a dinner of boiled roots, which made us so gassy that we could hardly breathe all night and felt the effects of it. We lanced two canoes today; one turned out to be a little leaky, while the other was in very good condition.
[Clark, October 5, 1805]
October 5th Saty 1805 Wind Easterley and Cool, had all our horses 38 in number Collected and branded Cut off their fore top and delivered them to the 2 brothers and one Son of one of the Chiefs who intends to accompany us down the river to each of those men I gave a Knife & Some Small articles &c. they promised to be attentive to our horses untill we Should return.
October 5th, Saturday, 1805. The wind was cool and coming from the east. We gathered all our horses, 38 in total, branded them, clipped their forelock, and handed them over to the two brothers and one son of one of the chiefs, who plan to travel down the river with us. I gave each of them a knife and some small items, and they promised to take good care of our horses until we return.
Lattitude of this place from the mean of two observations is 46° 34' 56.3" North
Latitude of this location from the average of two observations is 46° 34' 56.3" North.
Nothing to eate except dried fish & roots. Capt Lewis & myself eate a Supper of roots boiled, which Swelled us in Such a manner that we were Scercely able to breath for Several hours—finished and lanced 2 of our Canoes this evening which proved to be verry good our hunters with every diligence Could kill nothing. The hills high and ruged and woods too dry to hunt the deer which is the only game in our neighbourhood. Several Squars Came with Fish and roots which we purchased of them for Beeds, which they were fond of—Capt Lewis not So well to day as yesterday
There was nothing to eat except dried fish and roots. Captain Lewis and I had a dinner of boiled roots, which made us so bloated that we could hardly breathe for several hours. We finished and repaired two of our canoes this evening, which turned out to be very good. Our hunters, despite their best efforts, couldn’t catch anything. The hills are steep and rugged, and the woods are too dry to hunt for deer, which is the only game available in our area. Several women came by with fish and roots, which we bought from them for beads, something they really liked. Captain Lewis isn’t feeling as well today as he did yesterday.
[Clark, October 6, 1805]
October 6th Sunday 1805 A Col Easterley wind which Spring up in the latter part of the night and Continues untill about 7 or 8 oClock A.M. had all our Saddles Collected a whole dug and in the night buried them, also a Canister of powder and a bag of Balls at the place the Canoe which Shields made was cut from the body of the tree—The Saddles were buried on the Side of a bend about 1/2 a mile below—all the Canoes finished this evening ready to be put into the water. I am taken verry unwell with a paine in the bowels & Stomach, which is certainly the effects of my diet-which last all night-.
October 6th, Sunday, 1805 A cool easterly wind picked up in the latter part of the night and continued until about 7 or 8 o'clock in the morning. We had all our saddles collected, dug a hole, and buried them during the night. We also buried a canister of powder and a bag of balls at the spot where Shields made the canoe from the tree. The saddles were buried on the side of a bend about half a mile downstream. All the canoes were finished this evening, ready to be put into the water. I'm feeling very unwell with pain in my abdomen and stomach, which is definitely a result of my diet, which lasted all night.
The winds blow cold from a little before day untill the Suns gets to Some hight from the Mountans East as they did from the mountans at the time we lay at the falls of Missouri from the West The river below this forks is Called Kos kos keel it is Clear rapid with Shoals or Swift places The open Countrey Commences a fiew miles below This on each side of the river, on the Lard Side below the 1st Creek. with a few trees Scattered near the river. passd maney bad rapids, one Canoe that in which I went in front Sprung a Leak in passing the 3rd rapid
The winds blow cold from just before dawn until the sun rises high in the sky, coming from the mountains to the east, just like they did when we were at the falls of the Missouri River coming from the west. The river below this fork is called Koskoskeel; it’s clear and fast with shallow spots. The open country begins a few miles below this on both sides of the river, on the left side below the first creek, with a few trees scattered near the river. We passed many dangerous rapids, and one canoe I was in sprung a leak while going through the third rapid.
Set out at 3 oClock P M & proceeded on
Set out at 3 PM and continued on
[Clark, October 7, 1805]
October 7th Monday 1805 I continu verry unwell but obliged to attend every thing all the Canoes put into the water and loaded, fixed our Canoes as well as possible and Set out as we were about to Set out we missd. both of the Chiefs who promised to accompany us; I also missed my Pipe Tomahawk which Could not be found.
October 7th, Monday, 1805. I'm still feeling very unwell but have to attend to everything. All the canoes have been put into the water and loaded. We made sure our canoes were as ready as they could be and set out. Just as we were about to leave, we noticed that both of the chiefs who promised to join us were missing. I also couldn't find my pipe tomahawk.
The after part of the day Cloudy proceded on passed 10 rapids which wer danjerous the Canoe in which I was Struck a rock and Sprung a leak in the 3rd rapid, we proceeded on 20 miles and Encamped on a Stard point oppost a run. passed a Creek Small on the Lard. Side at 9 miles, a Short distanc from the river at 2 feet 4 Inches N. of a dead toped pine Treee had burid 2 Lead Canisters of Powder
The later part of the day was cloudy as we went through 10 dangerous rapids. The canoe I was in hit a rock and developed a leak in the third rapid. We continued on for 20 miles and set up camp on a sand point across from a creek. We passed a small creek on the left side at 9 miles, a short distance from the river, at 2 feet 4 inches north of a dead-topped pine tree where I buried 2 lead canisters of powder.
Had the Canoes unloaded examined and mended a Small leake which we discovered in a thin place in her Side passed Several Camps of Indians to day our Course and distance Shall be given after I get to the forks. &c.which the Indians Say is the last of the bad water untill we get to the great falls 10 day below, where the white people live &c. The Lodges are of Sticks set in a form of roof of a house & covered with mats and Straw
Had the canoes unloaded to examine and fix a small leak we found in a thin spot on her side. We passed several Indian camps today. Our route and distance will be provided after I reach the forks, etc. The Indians say this is the last of the bad water until we get to the great falls ten days downriver, where the white people live, etc. The lodges are made of sticks set up in a roof-like structure and covered with mats and straw.
[Clark, October 8, 1805]
8th Octr. 1805 Tuesday a cloudy morning Changed Canoes and buried 2 Lead canisters of Powder 2 foot 4 In. North of a dead toped pine opposit our Camp & opposit the mouth of a run after repareing leaks in the Canoes Sprung Coming over the rapids yesterday Set out at 9 oClock
8th Oct 1805, Tuesday, a cloudy morning. We switched canoes and buried 2 lead canisters of powder 2 feet 4 inches north of a dead topped pine across from our camp and across from the mouth of a stream. After fixing leaks in the canoes that we sprung while coming over the rapids yesterday, we set out at 9 o'clock.
[Clark, October 8, 1805]
October 8th Tuesday 1805 A Cloudy morning loaded our Canoes which was unloaded last night and Set out at 9 oClock passed 15 rapids four Islands and a Creek on the Stard Side at 16 miles just below which one canoe in which Serjt. Gass was Stearing and was nearle turning over, She Sprung a leak or Split open on one Side and Bottom filled with water & Sunk on the rapid, the men, Several of which Could not Swim hung on to the Canoe, I had one of the other Canoes unloaded & with the assistance of our Small Canoe and one Indian Canoe took out every thing & toed the empty Canoe on Shore, one man Tompson a little hurt, every thing wet perticularly the greater part of our Small Stock of merchindize, had every thing opened, and two Sentinals put over them to keep off the Indians, who are enclined to theave haveing Stole Several Small articles those people appeared disposed to give us every assistance in their power dureing our distress—We passed Several Encampments of Indians on the Islands and those near the rapids in which places they took the Salmon, at one of Those Camps we found our two Chiefs who had promised to accompany us, we took them on board after the Serimony of Smokeing
October 8th, Tuesday 1805 It was a cloudy morning as we loaded our canoes, which we had unpacked last night, and set out at 9 o'clock. We passed 15 rapids, four islands, and a creek on the starboard side at 16 miles. Just below that point, one canoe, with Sergeant Gass steering, nearly turned over. It sprang a leak or split open on one side and bottom, filled with water, and sank in the rapid. The men, several of whom couldn't swim, clung to the canoe. I had one of the other canoes unloaded, and with the help of our small canoe and one Indian canoe, we retrieved everything and towed the empty canoe ashore. One man, Tompson, was slightly hurt, but everything was wet, especially most of our small supply of merchandise. We opened everything up and stationed two sentinels to watch over it and keep the Indians away, as they had stolen several small items. Those people seemed willing to give us all the help they could during our trouble. We passed several encampments of Indians on the islands and those near the rapids, where they caught salmon. At one of those camps, we found our two chiefs who had promised to join us, and we took them aboard after the ceremony of smoking.
[Clark, October 9, 1805]
Octo. 9th all day drying our roots good & articles which got wet in the Canoe last night. our 2 Snake Indian guides left us without our knowledge, The Indians troublesom Stole my Spoon which they returned. men merry at night & Singular acts of a Ind. woman
Oct. 9th all day drying our roots and items that got wet in the canoe last night. Our two Snake Indian guides left us without telling us. The troublesome Indians stole my spoon, which they returned. The men were cheerful at night, and there were some unusual actions from an Indian woman.
[Clark, October 9, 1805]
October 9th Wednesday 1805 The morning Cool as usial the greater part of the day proved to be Cloudy, which was unfavourable for drying our things &c. which got wet yesterday. In examoning our canoe found that by putting Knees & Strong peces pined to her Sides and bottom &c. She Could be made fit for Service in by the time the goods dried, Set 4 men to work at her, Serjt. Pryor & Gass, Jo Fields & Gibson, others to Collect rosin, at 1 oClock She was finished Stronger than ever The wet articles not Sufficiently dried to pack up obliged us to delay another night dureing the time one man was tradeing for fish for our voyage, at Dark we were informed that our old guide & his Son had left us and had been Seen running up the river Several miles above, we Could not account for the Cause of his leaveing us at this time, without receiving his pay for the Services he had rendered us, or letting us know anything of his intention.
October 9th, Wednesday, 1805 The morning was cool as usual, and most of the day was cloudy, which was not good for drying our things that got wet yesterday. While examining our canoe, we found that by adding knees and strong pieces attached to her sides and bottom, she could be made ready for service by the time the goods dried. I set four men to work on her: Sergeant Pryor, Gass, Jo Fields, and Gibson, while the others collected rosin. By 1 o'clock, she was finished, stronger than ever. The wet items weren’t sufficiently dried to pack up, so we had to delay another night. During that time, one man was trading for fish for our voyage. At dark, we were told that our old guide and his son had left us and had been seen running up the river several miles above. We couldn’t understand why he left us at this time, without receiving his pay for the services he had provided or letting us know anything about his intentions.
we requested the Chief to Send a horseman after our old guide to come back and recive his pay &c. which he advised us not to do as his nation would take his things from him before he passed their camps The Indians and our party were very mery this after noon a woman faind madness &c. &c. Singular acts of this woman in giveing in Small potions all She had & if they were not received She would Scarrify her Self in a horid manner &c. Capt Lewis recovring fast.
We asked the Chief to send a horseman to bring back our old guide so he could receive his payment, but he advised us against it because his people would take his belongings before he reached their camps. The Indians and our group were very cheerful this afternoon. A woman went a bit mad, doing strange things like giving away all the little possessions she had, and if anyone refused, she would hurt herself in a horrifying way. Captain Lewis is recovering quickly.
a verry worm day, Indians continue all day on the banks to view us as low as the forks. Two Indians come up in a Canoe, who means to accompany us to the Great rapids, Could get no observations, worm night The water of the South fork is of a bluish green colour
a very warm day, Indians continue all day on the banks to watch us as far as the forks. Two Indians came up in a canoe, intending to accompany us to the Great Rapids. Couldn't get any observations, warm night. The water of the South Fork is a bluish-green color.
[Clark, October 10, 1805]
October 10th Wednesday Thursday a fine Morning loaded and Set out at 7 oClock at 21/2 miles passed a run on the Stard. Side haveing passed 2 Islands and two bad rapids at 3 miles lower passed a Creek on the Lard. with wide Cotton willow bottoms haveing passed an Island and a rapid an Indian Camp of three Lodgs below the Creek at 81/2 miles lower we arrived at the heade of a verry bad riffle at which place we landed near 8 Lodges of Indians on the Lard Side to view the riffle, haveing passed two Islands & Six rapids Several of them verry bad-after view'g this riffle two Canoes were taken over verry well; the third Stuck on a rock which took us an hour to get her off which was effected without her receving a greater injurey than a Small Split in her Side which was repared in a Short time, we purchased fish & dogs of those people, dined and proceeded on- here we met with an Indian from the falls at which place he Sais he Saw white people, and expressd an inclination to accompany us, we passd. a fiew miles above this riffle 2 Lodges and an Indian batheing in a hot bath made by hot Stones thrown into a pon of water. at this riffle which we Call ragid rapid took meridian altitude of the Suns upper Limb with Sextt. 74° 26' 0" Latd. produced ____ North at five miles lower and Sixty miles below the forks arived at a large Southerly fork which is the one we were on with the Snake or So-So-nee nation (haveing passed 5 rapids) This South fork or Lewis's River which has two forks which fall into it on the South the ist Small the upper large and about 2 days march up imediately parrelal to the first villages we Came to and is called by those Indians Par-nash-te on this fork a little above its mouth resides a Chief who as the Indian Say has more horses than he can Count and further Sayeth that Louises River is navagable about 60 miles up with maney rapids at which places the Indians have fishing Camps and Lodjes built of an oblong form with flat ruffs. below the 1st river on the South Side there is ten established fishing places on the 1st fork which fall in on the South Side is one fishing place, between that and the Par nash to River, five fishing places, above two, and one on that river all of the Cho-pun-nish or Pierced Nose Nation many other Indians reside high up those rivers The Countrey about the forks is an open Plain on either Side I can observe at a distance on the lower Stard. Side a high ridge of Thinly timbered Countrey the water of the South fork-is a greenish blue, the north as clear as cristial
October 10th, Wednesday: A fine morning. We loaded up and set out at 7 o'clock. After 2.5 miles, we passed a stream on the starboard side, having passed 2 islands and two rough rapids. At 3 miles lower, we passed a creek on the larboard side with wide cottonwood bottoms. After passing an island and a rapid, we saw an Indian camp with three lodges below the creek. At 8.5 miles lower, we arrived at the head of a very bad riffle, where we landed near 8 lodges of Indians on the larboard side to check out the riffle. We had passed two islands and six rapids, several of which were quite challenging. After assessing this riffle, two canoes were taken over successfully; the third got stuck on a rock, which took us an hour to free without more damage than a small split in its side, which we repaired quickly. We purchased fish and dogs from these people, dined, and moved on. Here, we met an Indian from the falls who claimed he saw white people and expressed a desire to join us. We passed a few miles above this riffle, saw 2 lodges, and an Indian bathing in a hot bath made by hot stones thrown into a pond of water. At this riffle, which we call Ragid Rapid, I took a meridian altitude of the sun's upper limb with a sextant, measuring 74° 26' 0" latitude, producing ____ north. Five miles lower and sixty miles below the forks, we arrived at a large southerly fork, which is the one we were on with the Snake or So-So-nee nation, having passed 5 rapids. This south fork or Lewis's River has two smaller forks that flow into it on the south side; the first is small and the upper large, about two days' march up, immediately parallel to the first villages we encountered, and it's called by those Indians Par-nash-te. On this fork, just above its mouth, resides a chief who, according to the Indians, has more horses than he can count. They also say that Lewis's River is navigable about 60 miles up, with many rapids where the Indians have fishing camps and lodges built in an oblong form with flat roofs. Below the first river on the south side, there are ten established fishing places. The first fork that flows in on the south side has one fishing place, and between that and the Par-nash-te River, there are five fishing spots, two above that, and one on that river, all belonging to the Cho-pun-nish or Pierced Nose Nation. Many other Indians live further up those rivers. The land around the forks is an open plain on either side, and I can see a high ridge of sparsely timbered country in the distance on the lower starboard side. The water of the south fork is a greenish blue, while the north is as clear as crystal.
Imediately in the point is an Indian Cabin & in the South fork a Small Island, we came to on the Stard. Side below with a view to make some luner observations the night proved Cloudy and we were disapointed The Indians Came down all the Couses of this river on each Side on horses to view us as we were desending,—The man whome we saw at the ruged rapid and expressed an inclination to accompany us to the great rapids, came up with his Son in a Small Canoe and procisted in his intentions- worthey of remark that not one Stick of timber on the river near the forks and but a fiew trees for a great distance up the River we decended I think Lewis's River is about 250 yards wide, the Koos koos ke River about 150 yards wide and the river below the forks about 300 yards wide. a miss understanding took place between Shabono one of our interpreters, and Jo. & R Fields which appears to have originated in just—our diet extremely bad haveing nothing but roots and dried fish to eate, all the Party have greatly the advantage of me, in as much as they all relish the flesh of the dogs, Several of which we purchased of the nativs for to add to our Store of fish and roots &c. &c.-
Immediately at the point is an Indian cabin, and to the south fork is a small island. We arrived on the starboard side below, hoping to make some lunar observations, but the night was cloudy, and we were disappointed. The Indians came down all the banks of this river on horses to watch us as we descended. The man we spotted at the rugged rapid, who showed an interest in accompanying us to the great rapids, came up with his son in a small canoe and insisted on his plans. It’s worth noting that there wasn’t a single stick of timber near the forks of the river and only a few trees for a great distance upstream. I believe Lewis's River is about 250 yards wide, the Kooskooskee River about 150 yards wide, and the river below the forks about 300 yards wide. A misunderstanding occurred between Shabono, one of our interpreters, and Jo. & R Fields, which seems to have arisen from our extremely poor diet, having nothing but roots and dried fish to eat. The whole party has a significant advantage over me since they all enjoy the meat of the dogs, several of which we bought from the natives to supplement our stock of fish, roots, etc.
The Cho-pun-nish or Pierced nose Indians are Stout likeley men, handsom women, and verry dressey in their way, the dress of the men are a white Buffalow robe or Elk Skin dressed with Beeds which are generally white, Sea Shells-i e the Mother of Pirl hung to ther hair & on a pice of otter Skin about their necks hair Cewed in two parsels hanging forward over their Sholders, feathers, and different Coloured Paints which they find in their Countrey Generally white, Green & light Blue. Some fiew were a Shirt of Dressed Skins and long legins, & Mockersons Painted, which appears to be their winters dress, with a plat of twisted grass about their necks.
The Cho-pun-nish, or Pierced Nose Indians, are robust-looking men and attractive women, and they dress quite stylishly in their own way. The men typically wear a white buffalo robe or elk skin adorned with beads, which are usually white, along with seashells—specifically mother of pearl—woven into their hair and on a piece of otter skin around their necks. Their hair is styled in two sections hanging forward over their shoulders, and they decorate themselves with feathers and various colored paints found in their region, typically white, green, and light blue. A few of them wear a shirt made of dressed skins, long leggings, and painted moccasins, which seem to be their winter attire, complemented by a braid of twisted grass around their necks.
The women dress in a Shirt of Ibex, or Goat Skins which reach quite down to their anckles with a girdle, their heads are not ornemented, their Shirts are ornemented with quilled Brass, Small peces of Brass Cut into different forms, Beeds, Shells & curios bones &c. The men expose those parts which are generally kept from view by other nations but the women are more perticular than any other nation which I have passed in Screting the parts
The women wear shirts made from ibex or goat skins that reach down to their ankles, held up by a belt. Their heads aren’t decorated, but their shirts are embellished with quilled brass, small pieces of brass cut into different shapes, beads, shells, and interesting bone items. The men show parts of their bodies that other cultures usually keep covered, but the women are more particular than any other culture I’ve seen about covering those areas.
Their amusements appear but fiew as their Situation requires the utmost exertion to prcure food they are generally employed in that pursute, all the Summer & fall fishing for the Salmon, the winter hunting the deer on Snow Shoes in the plains and takeing care of ther emence numbers of horses, & in the Spring cross the mountains to the Missouri to get Buffalow robes and meet &c. at which time they frequent meet with their enemies & lose their horses & maney of ther people
Their entertainment options seem few since their situation demands a lot of effort to gather food. They spend most of the summer and fall fishing for salmon, and in winter, they hunt deer on snowshoes in the plains while taking care of their large numbers of horses. In spring, they cross the mountains to the Missouri to obtain buffalo robes and meet others. During this time, they often encounter their enemies, losing both horses and many of their people.
Ther disorders are but fiew and those fiew of a Scofelous nature. they make great use of Swetting. The hot and cold baethes, They are verry Selfish and Stingey of what they have to eate or ware, and they expect in return Something for everything give as presents or the Survices which they doe let it be however Small, and fail to make those returns on their part.
Their disorders are few, and those few are of a scrofulous nature. They make great use of sweating and hot and cold baths. They are very selfish and stingy with what they have to eat or wear, and they expect something in return for everything given as gifts or for the services they provide, no matter how small, and fail to make those returns on their part.
[Clark, October 11, 1805]
October 11th 1805 a cloudy morning wind from the East We Set out early and proceeded on passed a rapid at two miles, at 6 miles we came too at Some Indian lodges and took brackfast, we purchased all the fish we could and Seven dogs of those people for Stores of Provisions down the river. at this place I saw a curious Swet house under ground, with a Small whole at top to pass in or throw in the hot Stones, which those in threw on as much water as to create the temporature of heat they wished—at 9 mile passed a rapid at 15 miles halted at an Indian Lodge, to purchase provisions of which we precred some of the Pash-he-quar roots five dogs and a few fish dried, after takeing Some dinner of dog &c we proceeded on. Came to and encamped at 2 Indian Lodges at a great place of fishing here we met an Indian of a nation near the mouth of this river.
October 11th, 1805, it was a cloudy morning with a wind coming from the east. We set out early and continued on, passing a rapid at two miles. At six miles, we arrived at some Indian lodges and had breakfast. We bought all the fish we could and seven dogs from the people for our supplies downriver. At this location, I saw an interesting underground sweat house, with a small hole at the top to either enter or drop in hot stones. Those inside would throw in enough water to create the heat they wanted. At nine miles, we passed another rapid, and at fifteen miles, we stopped at an Indian lodge to buy provisions, where we got some of the Pash-he-quar roots, five dogs, and a few dried fish. After having some dinner of dog, etc., we continued on, reaching and camping at two Indian lodges in a great fishing area. Here, we met an Indian from a nation near the mouth of this river.
we purchased three dogs and a fiew fish of those Indians, we Passed today nine rapids all of then great fishing places, at different places on the river saw Indian houses and Slabs & Spilt timber raised from the ground being the different parts of the houses of the natives when they reside on this river for the purpose of fishing at this time they are out in the Plain on each side of the river hunting the antilope as we are informed by our Chiefs, near each of those houses we observe Grave yards picketed, or pieces of wood stuck in permiscuesly over the grave or body which is Covered with earth, The Country on either Side is an open plain leavel & fertile after assending a Steep assent of about 200 feet not a tree of any kind to be Seen on the river The after part of the day the wind from the S. W. and hard. The day worm.
We bought three dogs and a few fish from the Indians we passed today. We went through nine rapids, all great fishing spots. At different places along the river, we saw Indian houses and slabs and split timber raised from the ground, which are parts of the natives' homes when they stay on this river to fish. Right now, they are out in the plains on each side of the river, hunting antelope, according to our chiefs. Near each of those houses, we noticed graveyards that were picketed, or pieces of wood randomly stuck over the graves or bodies, which are covered with earth. The land on either side is an open, flat, and fertile plain after climbing a steep slope of about 200 feet. There are no trees of any kind along the river. Later in the day, the wind picked up from the southwest and blew hard. The day is warm.
[Clark, October 12, 1805]
October 12th 1805 Saturday a fair cool morning wind from E after purchasing all the drid fish those people would Spear from their hole in which they wer buried we Set out at 7 oClock and proceeded on
October 12th, 1805, Saturday, a nice cool morning with a breeze from the east. After buying all the dried fish those people would spear from the hole where they were buried, we set out at 7 o'clock and continued on.
[Clark, October 12, 1805]
October 12th Saturday 1805 A fair Cool morning wind from the East. after purchaseing every Speces of the provisions those Indians could Spare we Set out and proceeded on at three miles passed four Islands Swift water and a bad rapid opposit to those Islands on the Lard. Side. at 141/2 miles passed the mouth of a large Creek on the Lard Side opposit a Small Island here the Countrey assends with a gentle assent to the high plains, and the River is 400 yards wide about 1 mile below the Creek on the Same Side took meridian altitude which gave 72° 30' 00" Latitude produced ____ North in the afternoon the wind Shifted to the S. W. and blew hard we passed to day ____ rapids Several of them very bad and came to at the head of one (at 30 miles) on the Stard. Side to view it before we attemptd. to dsend through it. The Indians had told us was verry bad—we found long and dangerous about 2 miles in length, and maney turns necessary to Stear Clare of the rocks, which appeared to be in every direction. The Indians went through & our Small Canoe followed them, as it was late we deturmined to camp above untill the morning. we passed Several Stoney Islands today Country as yesterday open plains, no timber of any kind a fiew Hack berry bushes & willows excepted, and but few drift trees to be found So that fire wood is verry Scerce—The hills or assents from the water is faced with a dark ruged Stone. The wind blew hard this evening.-
October 12th, Saturday, 1805 It was a nice, cool morning with a wind coming from the east. After buying all the provisions the local tribes could spare, we set out and made our way forward. After three miles, we passed four islands with swift water and a bad rapid across from those islands on the left side. At 14.5 miles, we reached the mouth of a large creek on the left side, opposite a small island. Here, the land gently rises toward the high plains, and the river is about 400 yards wide. About a mile downstream from the creek, on the same side, I took a meridian altitude, which gave me a latitude of 72° 30' 00" North. In the afternoon, the wind shifted to the southwest and picked up speed. We passed several rapids today, some of them quite bad, and we stopped at the head of one (at 30 miles) on the right side to check it out before attempting to go through. The Indians had warned us that it was very dangerous. We found it long and tricky, about two miles in length, with many turns necessary to avoid the rocks that seemed to be everywhere. The Indians navigated through, and our small canoe followed them. Since it was getting late, we decided to camp above until morning. We passed several rocky islands today, and the terrain was like yesterday: open plains with no timber of any kind, except for a few hackberry bushes and willows, and hardly any driftwood, making firewood very scarce. The hills or slopes by the water are covered with dark, rugged stone. The wind was blowing hard this evening.
[Clark, October 13, 1805]
October 13th Sunday 1805 rained a little before day, and all the morning, a hard wind from the S West untill 9 oClock, the rained Seased & wind luled, and Capt Lewis with two Canoes Set out & passed down the rapid The others Soon followed and we passed over this bad rapid Safe. We Should make more portages if the Season was not So far advanced and time precious with us
October 13th, Sunday, 1805. It rained a bit before dawn and continued all morning, with a strong wind from the southwest until 9 o'clock. The rain stopped and the wind calmed down, and Captain Lewis, along with two canoes, set out and navigated the rapids. The others soon followed, and we safely made it over this rough rapid. We would make more portages if the season wasn't so far along and time wasn't so precious for us.
The wife of Shabono our interpetr we find reconsiles all the Indians, as to our friendly intentions a woman with a party of men is a token of peace
The wife of Shabono, our interpreter, brings all the Indians together regarding our friendly intentions; a woman accompanied by a group of men is a sign of peace.
[Clark, October 13, 1805]
October 13th Sunday 1805 a windey dark raney morning The rain commenced before day and Continued moderately until) near 12 oClock—we took all our Canoes through This rapid without any injurey. a little below passed through another bad rapid at ____ miles passed the Mo. of a large Creek little river in a Stard. bend, imediately below a long bad rapid; in which the water is Confined in a Chanel of about 20 yards between rugid rocks for the distance of a mile and a half and a rapid rockey Chanel for 2 miles above. This must be a verry bad place in high water, here is great fishing place, the timbers of Several houses piled up, and a number of wholes of fish, and the bottom appears to have been made use of as a place of deposit for their fish for ages past, here two Indians from the upper foks over took us and continued on down on horse back, two others were at this mouth of the Creek—we passed a rapid about 9 mile lower. at dusk came to on the Std. Side & Encamped. The two Inds. on horse back Stayed with us. The Countery Thro which we passed to day is Simlar to that of yesterday open plain no timber passed Several houses evacuated at established fishing places, wind hard from The S. W. in the evening and not very cold
October 13th, Sunday, 1805. It was a windy, dark, rainy morning. The rain started before dawn and continued steadily until around 12 o'clock. We took all our canoes through this rapid without any injuries. A little further down, we went through another bad rapid at ____ miles, passing the mouth of a large creek—a small river in a southeast bend—just below a long, tricky rapid. Here, the water is confined in a channel about 20 yards wide between rugged rocks for a mile and a half, with a rocky rapid channel for 2 miles above. This must be a very dangerous spot in high water. There is great fishing here, with the timbers from several houses piled up and numerous holes for fish, indicating that this area has been used as a fish deposit site for ages. Two Indians from the upper forks caught up with us and continued down on horseback, and two others were at the mouth of the creek. We passed another rapid about 9 miles lower. At dusk, we made camp on the southeast side. The two Indians on horseback stayed with us. The countryside we traveled through today is similar to yesterday—open plains with no timber, and we passed several abandoned houses at established fishing spots. The wind was strong from the southwest in the evening, but it wasn’t very cold.
[Clark, October 14, 1805]
October 14th Monday 1805 a verry Cool morning wind from the West Set out at 8 oClock proceeded on
October 14th, Monday, 1805: a very cool morning with a wind coming from the west. We set out at 8 o'clock and continued on.
at this rapid the Canoe a Stern Steared by drewyer Struck a rock turned the men got out on a rock the Stern of the Canoe took in water and She Sunk the men on the rock hel her, a number of articles floated all that Could be Cought were taken by 2 of the othr Canoes, Great many articles lost among other things 2 of the mens beding Shot pouches Tomahaws &c. &c. and every article wet of which we have great Cause to lament as all our loose Powder two Canisters, all our roots prepared in the Indian way, and one half of our goods, fortunately the lead canisters which was in the canoe was tied down, otherwise they must have been lost as the Canoe turned over we got off the men from the rock toed our canoe on Shore after takeing out all the Stores &c. we Could & put them out to dry on the Island on which we found Some wood which was covered with Stones, this is the Parts of an Indian house, which we used for fire wood, by the wish of our two Chiefs—Those Chees, one of them was in the Canoe, Swam in & Saved Some property, The Inds. have buried fish on this Isld. which we are Cautious not to touch. our Small Canoe & three Indians in another was out of Sight at the time our missfortune hapined, and did not join us. wind hard S W.
At this rapid, the canoe, steered by Drewyer, hit a rock and turned. The men got out onto a rock, but the stern of the canoe took in water and sank. The men on the rock held onto her while several items floated away; anything they could grab was taken by two of the other canoes. A lot of things were lost, including two of the men's bedding, shot pouches, tomahawks, etc. We have great cause to lament every item that got wet, especially all our loose powder, two canisters, all our roots prepared in the Indian way, and half of our goods. Luckily, the lead canisters that were in the canoe were tied down; otherwise, they would have been lost when the canoe turned over. We got the men off the rock and towed our canoe ashore after taking out all the stores we could, and we laid them out to dry on the island, where we found some wood covered with stones. This was part of an Indian house, and we used it for firewood at the request of our two chiefs—one of whom was in the canoe, swam in, and saved some property. The Indians have buried fish on this island, which we are careful not to touch. Our small canoe and three Indians in another were out of sight when our misfortune happened and did not join us. The wind was strong from the southwest.
[Clark, October 14, 1805]
October 14th Monday 1805 a Verry Cold morning wind from the West and Cool untill about 12 oClock When it Shifted to the S. W. at 21/2 miles passed a remarkable rock verry large and resembling the hull of a Ship Situated on a Lard point at Some distance from the assending Countrey passed rapids at 6 and 9 miles. at 12 miles we Came too at the head of a rapid which the Indians told me was verry bad, we viewed the rapid found it bad in decending three Stern Canoes Stuk fast for Some time on the head of the rapid and one Struk a rock in the worst part, fortunately all landed Safe below the rapid which was nearly 3 miles in length. here we dined, and for the first time for three weeks past I had a good dinner of Blue wing Teel, after dinner we Set out and had not proceded on two miles before our Stern Canoe in passing thro a Short rapid opposit the head of an Island, run on a Smoth rock and turned broad Side, the men got out on the rock all except one of our Indian Chiefs who Swam on Shore, The Canoe filed and Sunk a number of articles floated out, Such as the mens bedding clothes & Skins, the Lodge &c. &c. the greater part of which were cought by 2 of the Canoes, whilst a 3rd was unloading & Steming the Swift Current to the relief of the men on the rock who could with much dificuelty hold the Canoe. however in about an hour we got the men an Canoe to Shore with the Loss of Some bedding Tomahaws Shot pouches Skins Clothes &c &c. all wet we had every articles exposed to the Sun to dry on the Island, our loss in provisions is verry Considerable all our roots was in the Canoe that Sunk, and Cannot be dried Sufficint to Save, our loose powder was also in the Canoe and is all wett This I think, we Shall saved.—In this Island we found some Split timber the parts of a house which the Indians had verry Securely covered with Stone, we also observed a place where the Indians had buried there fish, we have made it a point at all times not to take any thing belonging to the Indians even their wood. but at this time we are Compelled to violate that rule and take a part of the Split timber we find here bured for fire wood, as no other is to be found in any direction. our Small Canoe which was a head returned at night with 2 ores which they found floating below. The wind this after noon from the S. W. as usial and hard way of the forks to the Indian Camps at the first were not one mouthfull to eate untill night as our hunters could kill nothing and I could See & catch no fish except a few Small ones. The Indians gave us 2 Sammon boiled which I gave to the men, one of my men Shot a Sammon in the river about Sunset those fish gave us a Supper. all the Camp flocked about me untill I went to Sleep—and I beleve if they had a Sufficency to eate themselves and any to Spare they would be liberal of it I detected the men to mend their Mockessons to night and turn out in the morning early to hunt Deer fish birds &c. &c. Saw great numbers of the large Black grass hopper. Some bars which were verry wild, but few Birds. a number of ground Lizards; Some fiew Pigions plainly See a rainge of mountains which bore S. E. & N. W. the nearest point south about 60 miles, and becoms high toward the N. W. The plaines on each Side is wavering. Labiesh killed 2 gees & 2 Ducks of the large kind. at two oClock we loaded & Set out, our Powder & Provisions of roots not Sufficently dry. we Shall put them out at the forks or mouth of this river which is at no great distance, and at which place we Shall delay to make Some Selestial observations &c. passed Eleven Island and Seven rapids to day. Several of the rapids verry bad and dificuelt to pass. The Islands of different Sizes and all of round Stone and Sand, no timber of any kind in Sight of the river, a fiew Small willows excepted; in the evening the countrey becomes lower not exceding 90 or 100 feet above the water and back is a wavering Plain on each Side, passed thro narrows for 3 miles where the Clifts of rocks juted to the river on each Side compressing the water of the river through a narrow chanel; below which it widens into a kind of bason nearly round without any proceptiable current, at the lower part of this bason is a bad dificuelt and dangerous rapid to pass, at the upper part of this rapid we over took the three Indians who had Polited us thro the rapids from the forks. those people with our 2 Chiefs had proceeded on to this place where they thought proper to delay for us to warn us of the difficulties of this rapid. we landed at a parcel of Split timber, the timber of a house of Indians out hunting the Antilope in the plains; and raised on Scaffolds to Save them from the Spring floods. here we were obliged for the first time to take the property of the Indians without the consent or approbation of the owner. the night was cold & we made use of a part of those boards and Split logs for fire wood. Killed two teel this evening. Examined the rapids which we found more dificuelt to pass than we expected from the Indians information. a Suckcession of Sholes, appears to reach from bank to bank for 3 miles which was also intersepted with large rocks Sticking up in every direction, and the chanel through which we must pass crooked and narrow. we only made 20 miles today, owing to the detention in passing rapids &c.
October 14th, Monday, 1805. It was a very cold morning with a west wind and cool weather until about noon when it shifted to the southwest. At 2.5 miles, we passed a large, remarkable rock that looked like the hull of a ship, situated on a large point at a distance from the rising country. We passed rapids at 6 and 9 miles. At 12 miles, we stopped at the head of a rapid that the Indians warned was very dangerous. We checked out the rapid and found it challenging. Three stern canoes got stuck for a while at the head of the rapid, and one hit a rock in the worst spot. Fortunately, everyone landed safely below the rapid, which was almost 3 miles long. Here we had lunch, and for the first time in three weeks, I enjoyed a good dinner of Blue-winged Teal. After lunch, we set out and hadn’t traveled two miles before our stern canoe, while crossing a short rapid near the head of an island, ran onto a smooth rock and turned broadside. The men got out onto the rock, except for one of our Indian chiefs who swam ashore. The canoe filled with water and sank, causing many items to float away, such as the men's bedding, clothes, skins, and the lodge, etc. Most of these were caught by two canoes while a third was unloading and battling the swift current to help the men on the rock, who could barely hold onto the canoe. However, after about an hour, we managed to get the men and a canoe to shore, losing some bedding, tomahawks, shot pouches, skins, clothes, etc. Everything was wet, so we spread all our items out under the sun to dry on the island. Our loss in provisions is substantial; all our roots were in the canoe that sank and cannot be dried enough to save, and our loose powder was also in the canoe and is now wet. I think we should be able to save some of it. On this island, we found some split timber, parts of a house that the Indians had securely covered with stones. We also noticed a spot where the Indians had buried their fish. We made it a point never to take anything belonging to the Indians, even their wood, but this time we had to break that rule and take some of the split timber for firewood since there was none to be found in any direction. Our small canoe, which had gone ahead, returned at night with two oars they found floating downstream. The wind this afternoon came from the southwest as usual, and it was hard to reach the Indian camps. At first, there was nothing to eat until night when our hunters had no luck, and I couldn’t see or catch any fish except for a few small ones. The Indians gave us two boiled salmon, which I shared with the men. One of my men shot a salmon in the river around sunset, and those fish provided us with dinner. All the camp gathered around me until I fell asleep, and I believe that if they had enough to eat themselves and any extras, they would have generously shared it. I noticed the men fixing their moccasins tonight, preparing to head out early in the morning to hunt deer, fish, birds, etc. I saw plenty of large black grasshoppers. There were some wild bears but few birds, and a number of ground lizards. I also spotted a few pigeons. In the distance, there was a range of mountains that ran southeast to northwest, with the closest point to the south about 60 miles away, and they got higher toward the northwest. The plains on either side were rolling. Labiesh killed two geese and two large ducks. At 2 o’clock we loaded up and set out, although our powder and provisions of roots weren’t sufficiently dry. We plan to stop at the forks or mouth of this river, which isn’t far away, to make some celestial observations, etc. We passed eleven islands and seven rapids today. Several of the rapids were very difficult and challenging to navigate. The islands varied in size and were all made of round stones and sand, with no timber in sight except for a few small willows. In the evening, the terrain became lower, not exceeding 90 or 100 feet above the water, and there were rolling plains on each side. We passed through narrow stretches for 3 miles where cliffs of rock jutted into the river on either side, compressing the water through a narrow channel; below this section, it widened into a kind of basin, nearly round, with no noticeable current. At the lower part of this basin was a difficult and dangerous rapid to navigate, and at the upper part of this rapid, we caught up with the three Indians who had guided us through the rapids from the forks. Those people, along with our two chiefs, had continued to this point, where they decided to wait for us to warn us about the challenges of this rapid. We landed near some split timber, remnants of an Indian house built to hunt antelopes in the plains, raised on scaffolds to protect them from spring floods. Here, we were forced, for the first time, to take the property of the Indians without the owner's consent or approval. The night was cold, and we used some of the boards and split logs for firewood. We killed two teal this evening. I examined the rapids, which turned out to be more challenging to navigate than we expected based on the Indians' information. A succession of shallows seems to stretch from bank to bank for 3 miles, interrupted by large rocks sticking up in every direction, and the channel we must pass through is crooked and narrow. We only covered 20 miles today due to the delays in navigating the rapids, etc.
[Clark, October 16, 1805]
Oar. 16th 1805 Wednesday a cool morning Set out early passed the rapid with all the Canoes except Sgt. Pryors which run on a rock near the lower part of the rapid and Stuck fast, by the assistance of the 3 other Canoes She was unloaded and got off the rock without any further injorey than, the wetting the greater part of her loading—loaded and proceeded on I walked around this rapid
Oar. 16th 1805 Wednesday a cool morning We set out early and passed the rapid with all the canoes except Sgt. Pryor's, which ran aground on a rock near the lower part of the rapid and got stuck. With the help of the three other canoes, we unloaded it and managed to get it off the rock without any further damage other than soaking most of its load—loaded it back up and moved on. I walked around this rapid.
We halted a Short time above the Point and Smoked with the Indians, & examined the Point and best place for our Camp, we Camped on the Columbia River a little above the point I Saw about 200 men Comeing down from their villages & were turned back by the Chief, after we built our fires of what wood we Could Collect, & get from the Indians, the Chief brought down all his men Singing and dancing as they Came, formed a ring and danced for Some time around us we gave them a Smoke, and they returned the village a little above, the Chief & Several delay untill I went to bead. bought 7 dogs & they gave us Several fresh Salmon & Som horse dried
We stopped for a short time above the point and smoked with the Indians, then examined the point and the best place for our camp. We set up camp on the Columbia River just above the point. I saw about 200 men coming down from their villages but they were turned back by the chief. After we built our fires with whatever wood we could gather and what we got from the Indians, the chief brought all his men down singing and dancing as they came. They formed a circle and danced around us for a while. We offered them a smoke, and then they returned to their village a little above. The chief and several others stayed until I went to bed. I bought 7 dogs, and they gave us several fresh salmon and some dried horse meat.
[Clark, October 16, 1805]
October 16th Wednesday 1805 A cool morning deturmined to run the rapids, put our Indian guide in front our Small Canoe next and the other four following each other, the canoes all passed over Safe except the rear Canoe which run fast on a rock at the lower part of the Rapids, with the early assistance of the other Canoes & the Indians, who was extreamly ellert every thing was taken out and the Canoe got off without any enjorie further than the articles which it was loaded all wet. at 14 miles passed a bad rapid at which place we unloaded and made a portage of 3/4 of a mile, haveing passd. 4 Smaller rapids, three Islands and the parts of a house above, I Saw Indians & Horses on the South Side below. five Indians came up the river in great haste, we Smoked with them and gave them a piece of tobacco to Smoke with their people and Sent them back, they Set out in a run & continued to go as fast as They Could run as far as we Could See them. after getting Safely over the rapid and haveing taken Diner Set out and proceeded on Seven miles to the junction of this river and the Columbia which joins from the N. W. passd. a rapid two Islands and a graveley bare, and imediately in the mouth a rapid above an Island. In every direction from the junction of those rivers the Countrey is one Continued plain low and rises from the water gradually, except a range of high Countrey which runs from S. W & N E and is on the opposit Side about 2 miles distant from the Collumbia and keeping its detection S W untill it joins a S W. range of mountains.
October 16th, Wednesday, 1805 It was a cool morning and we were determined to run the rapids. We put our Indian guide in front, our small canoe next, and the other four canoes followed in line. All the canoes passed through safely except the last one, which quickly ran aground on a rock at the lower part of the rapids. With the prompt help of the other canoes and the Indians, who were extremely alert, everything was taken out and the canoe managed to get off without any damage, except that all the goods it was carrying got soaked. After traveling 14 miles, we encountered a bad rapid where we unloaded and portaged for three-quarters of a mile, having passed four smaller rapids, three islands, and some parts of a house upstream. I saw Indians and horses on the south side below. Five Indians came up the river in a hurry; we shared some smoke with them and gave them a piece of tobacco to share with their people before sending them back. They took off running and continued as fast as they could until we lost sight of them. After we got safely over the rapid and had lunch, we set out and traveled another seven miles to the junction of this river with the Columbia, which flows in from the northwest. We passed a rapid, two islands, and a gravel bar, and right at the mouth there was another rapid above an island. In every direction from the junction of these rivers, the country is one continuous plain that gradually rises from the water, except for a range of high terrain that runs from southwest to northeast, located about two miles from the Columbia, extending southwest until it joins a southwest range of mountains.
We halted above the point on the river Kimooenim to Smoke with the Indians who had collected there in great numbers to view us, here we met our 2 Chiefs who left us two days ago and proceeded on to this place to inform those bands of our approach and friendly intentions towards all nations &c. we also met the 2 men who had passed us Several days ago on hors back, one of them we observed was a man of great influence with those Indians, harranged them; after Smokeing with the Indians who had collected to view us we formed a camp at the point near which place I Saw a fiew pieces of Drift wood after we had our camp fixed and fires made, a Chief came from their Camp which was about 1/4 of a mile up the Columbia river at the head of about 200 men Singing and beeting on their drums Stick and keeping time to the musik, they formed a half circle around us and Sung for Some time, we gave them all Smoke, and Spoke to their Chiefs as well as we could by Signs informing them of our friendly disposition to all nations, and our joy in Seeing those of our Children around us, Gave the principal chief a large Medal Shirt and Handkf. a 2nd Chief a Meadel of Small Size, and to the Cheif who came down from the upper villages a Small Medal & Handkerchief.
We stopped by the spot on the Kimooenim River to smoke with the Indians who had gathered there in large numbers to see us. Here, we encountered our two Chiefs who had left us two days earlier and came ahead to notify these groups of our arrival and friendly intentions toward all nations, etc. We also met the two men who had passed us several days ago on horseback; one of them was a man of considerable influence with those Indians and addressed them. After smoking with the Indians who had congregated to see us, we set up camp at the point where I noticed a few pieces of driftwood. Once we had our camp set up and the fires lit, a Chief came from their camp, located about a quarter of a mile up the Columbia River, leading around 200 men who were singing and beating their drums, keeping time with the music. They formed a half-circle around us and sang for a while. We offered them all tobacco and communicated with their Chiefs as best as we could through signs, letting them know about our friendly intentions toward all nations and our happiness in seeing many of our children around us. We gave the principal chief a large medal shirt and handkerchief, the second chief a smaller medal, and to the chief who came down from the upper villages, a small medal and handkerchief.
The Chiefs then returned with the men to their camp; Soon after we purchased for our Provisions Seven Dogs, Some fiew of those people made us presents of fish and Several returned and delayed with us untill bedtime—The 2 old Chiefs who accompanied us from the head of the river precured us Some full Such as the Stalks of weed or plant and willow bushes—one man made me a present of a about 20 lb. of verry fat Dried horse meat.
The chiefs then came back with the men to their camp. Soon after, we bought seven dogs for our supplies. Some of those people gave us gifts of fish, and several stayed with us until bedtime. The two older chiefs who traveled with us from the head of the river managed to get us some full plants, like stalks of weeds and willow bushes. One man gave me about 20 pounds of very fatty dried horse meat as a gift.
Great quantities of a kind of prickley pares, much worst than any I have before Seen of a tapering form and attach themselves by bunches.
Great amounts of a type of prickly pears, much worse than any I've seen before, have a tapered shape and grow in clusters.
[Clark, October 17, 1805]
October 17th Thursday 1805 Forks of Columbia This morning after the Luner observations, the old chief came down, and Several men with dogs to Sell & womin with fish &c. the Dogs we purchased the fish not good.
October 17th Thursday 1805 Forks of Columbia This morning after the lunar observations, the old chief came down, along with several men with dogs to sell, and women with fish, etc. We bought the dogs, but the fish were not good.
I took 2 men and Set out in a Small Canoe with a view to go as high up the Columbia river as the 1st forks which the Indians made Signs was but a Short distance, I set out at 2 oClock firs course was N. 83° W 6 miles to the lower point of a Island on the Lard. Side, passed an Island in the middle of the river at 5 miles, at the head of which is a rapid not bad at this rapid 3 Lodges of mats on the Lard emenc quantites of dried fish, then West 4 miles to the Lower point of an Island on the Stard. Side, 2 lodges of Indians large and built of mats- passed 3 verry large mat lodges at 2 mile on the Stard Side large Scaffols of fish drying at every lodge, and piles of Salmon lying. the Squars engaged prepareing them for the Scaffol—a Squar gave me a dried Salmon from those lodes on the Island an Indian Showed me the mouth of the river which falls in below a high hill on the Lard. N. 80° W. 8 miles from the Island. The river bending Lard.—This river is remarkably Clear and Crouded with Salmon in maney places, I observe in assending great numbers of Salmon dead on the Shores, floating on the water and in the Bottoms which can be seen at the debth of 20 feet. the Cause of the emence numbers of dead Salmon I can't account for So it is I must have seen 3 or 400 dead and maney living the Indians, I believe make use of the fish which is not long dead as, I Struck one nearly dead and left him floating, Some Indians in a canoe behind took the fish on board his canoe
I took two men and set out in a small canoe aiming to travel up the Columbia River as far as the first forks, which the Indians indicated was only a short distance away. I left at 2 o'clock, and my first course was N. 83° W for 6 miles to the lower point of an island on the left side. I passed an island in the middle of the river after 5 miles, at the head of which there's a rapid that's not too bad. At this rapid, there were three lodges made of mats on the left side, with a large quantity of dried fish. Then I went west for 4 miles to the lower point of an island on the right side, where I saw two large mat lodges occupied by Indians. I passed three very large mat lodges 2 miles down on the right side, with large scaffolds of fish drying at every lodge and piles of salmon laid out. The women were busy preparing the fish for the scaffolds—one woman gave me a dried salmon from those lodges on the island. An Indian showed me the mouth of a river that flows in below a high hill on the left side, N. 80° W, 8 miles from the island, with the river bending left. This river is remarkably clear and crowded with salmon in many places. As I traveled upstream, I noticed great numbers of dead salmon on the shores, floating in the water, and some at the bottom visible at a depth of 20 feet. I can't account for the immense number of dead salmon, but I must have seen 300 or 400 dead, with many still alive. I believe the Indians use the fish that isn’t long dead; I struck one that was nearly dead and left it floating. Some Indians in a canoe behind me picked it up.
The bottoms on the South Side as high as the Tarcouche tesse is from 1 to 2 miles wide, back of the bottoms rises to hilly countrey, the Plain is low on the North & Easte for a great distance no wood to be Seen in any direction.
The bottoms on the South Side, as high as the Tarcouche tesse, are 1 to 2 miles wide. Behind the bottoms, the land rises to hilly country. The plain is low to the North and East for a long distance, and there are no trees visible in any direction.
The Tarcouche tesse bears South of West, the Columbia N W above range of hills on the West Parrelel a range of mountains to the East which appears to run nearly North & South distance not more than 50 miles—I returned to the point at Dusk followed by three canoes of Indians 20 in number—I killed a Fowl of the Pheasent kind as large as a turkey. The length from his Beeck to the end of its tail 2 feet 6—3/4 Inches, from the extremity of its wings across 3 feet 6 Inches. the tail feathers 13 Inches long, feeds on grass hoppers, and the Seed of wild Isoop 6
The Tarcouche tesse is located southwest, with the Columbia River to the northwest above a range of hills. To the east, there's a mountain range that appears to run almost north and south, not more than 50 miles away. I returned to my location at dusk, accompanied by three canoes of Indians, totaling 20 people. I hunted a bird similar to a pheasant, about the size of a turkey. Its length from beak to tail is 2 feet 6¾ inches, and its wingspan is 3 feet 6 inches. The tail feathers are 13 inches long, and it feeds on grasshoppers and wild hyssop seeds.
Those Indians are orderly, badly dressed in the Same fashions of those above except the women who wore Short Shirts and a flap over them 22 Fishing houses of Mats robes of Deer, Goat & Beaver.
Those Native Americans are tidy, but poorly dressed in the same styles as the ones mentioned above, except for the women who wore short shirts and a flap over them. They have fishing houses made of mats, and wear robes made of deer, goat, and beaver.
[Clark, October 17, 1805]
October 17th Thursday 1805 A fair morning made the above observations during which time the principal Chief came down with Several of his principal men and Smoked with us. Several men and woman offered Dogs and fish to Sell, we purchased all the dogs we could, the fish being out of Season and dieing in great numbers in the river, we did not think proper to use them, Send out Hunters to Shute the Prarie Cock a large fowl which I have only Seen on this river; Several of which I have killed, they are the Size of a Small turkey, of the pheasant kind, one I killed on the water edge to day measured from the Beek to the end of the toe 2 feet 6 & 3/4 Inches; from the extremities of its wings 3 feet 6 inches; the tale feathers is 13 inches long; they feed on grasshoppers and the Seed of the wild plant which is also peculiar to this river and the upper parts of the Missoury somewhat resembling the whins-. Capt. Lewis took a vocabelary of the Language of those people who call themselves So hulk, and also one of the language of a nation resideing on a Westerly fork of the Columbia which mouthes a fiew miles above this place who Call themselves Chim na pum Some fiew of this nation reside with the So kulks nation, Their language differ but little from either the Sokulks or the Cho-pun-nish (or pierced nose) nation which inhabit the Koskoskia river and Lewis's R below.
October 17th, Thursday, 1805 A nice morning allowed us to make the above observations. During this time, the main Chief came down with several of his key men and smoked with us. Several men and women offered dogs and fish for sale; we bought all the dogs we could since the fish were out of season and dying in large numbers in the river, so we thought it best not to use them. We sent out hunters to shoot the prairie chicken, a large bird that I have only seen along this river. I have killed a few; they are the size of a small turkey and are related to pheasants. One I shot by the water today measured 2 feet 6¾ inches from beak to toe; from wingtip to wingtip, it measured 3 feet 6 inches, and its tail feathers were 13 inches long. They feed on grasshoppers and the seeds of a wild plant that is also unique to this river and the upper parts of the Missouri, somewhat resembling whins. Captain Lewis took a vocabulary of the language of these people who call themselves So hulk, as well as a vocabulary of the language of a nation living on a western fork of the Columbia, which flows a few miles above this spot and who call themselves Chim na pum. A few of this nation live with the So hulks nation. Their languages differ little from either the So hulks or the Cho-pun-nish (or pierced nose) nation that inhabits the Koskoskia river and Lewis's River below.
I took two men in a Small Canoe and assended the Columbia river 10 miles to an Island near the Stard. Shore on which two large Mat Lodges of Indians were drying Salmon, (as they informed me by Signs for the purpose of food and fuel, & I do not think at all improbable that those people make use of Dried fish as fuel,) The number of dead Salmon on the Shores & floating in the river is incrediable to Say and at this Season they have only to collect the fish Split them open and dry them on their Scaffolds on which they have great numbers, how far they have to raft their timber they make their Scaffolds of I could not lern; but there is no timber of any Sort except Small willow bushes in Sight in any directionfrom this Island the natives showed me the enterance of a large Westerly fork which they Call Tapetett at about 8 miles distant, the evening being late I deturmined to return to the forks, at which place I reached at Dark. from the point up the Columbia River is N. 83° W. 6 miles to the lower point of an Island near the Lard. Side passed a Island in the middle of the river at 5 miles at the head of which is a rapid, not dangerous on the Lard Side opposit to this rapid is a fishing place 3 Mat Lodges, and great quants. of Salmon on Scaffolds drying. Saw great numhers of Dead Salmon on the Shores and floating in the water, great numbers of Indians on the banks viewing me and 18 canoes accompanied me from the point—The Waters of this river is Clear, and a Salmon may be Seen at the deabth of 15 or 20 feet. West 4 miles to the lower point of a large Island near the Stard. Side at 2 Lodges, passed three large lodges on the Stard Side near which great number of Salmon was drying on Scaffolds one of those Mat lodges I entered found it crouded with men women and children and near the enterance of those houses I saw maney Squars engaged Splitting and drying Salmon. I was furnished with a mat to Sit on, and one man Set about prepareing me Something to eate, first he brought in a piece of a Drift log of pine and with a wedge of the elks horn, and a malet of Stone curioesly Carved he Split the log into Small pieces and lay'd it open on the fire on which he put round Stones, a woman handed him a basket of water and a large Salmon about half Dried, when the Stones were hot he put them into the basket of water with the fish which was Soon Suflicently boiled for use. it was then taken out put on a platter of rushes neetly made, and Set before me they boiled a Salmon for each of the men with me, dureing those preperations, I Smoked with those about me who Chose to Smoke which was but fiew, this being a custom those people are but little accustomed to and only Smok thro form. after eateing the boiled fish which was delicious, I Set out & halted or came too on the Island at the two Lodges. Several fish was given to me, in return for Which I gave Small pieces of ribbond from those Lodges the natives Showed me the mouth of Tap teel River about 8 miles above on the west Side this western fork appears to beare nearly West, The main Columbia river N W.—a range of high land to the S W and parralal to the river and at the distance of 2 miles on the Lard. Side, the countrey low on the Stard. Side, and all Coverd. with a weed or plant about 2 & three feet high and resembles the whins. I can proceive a range of mountains to the East which appears to bare N. & South distant about 50 or 60 miles. no wood to be Seen in any derection—On my return I was followd. by 3 canoes in which there was 20 Indians I shot a large Prairie Cock Several Grouse, Ducks and fish. on my return found Great Numbr. of the nativs with Capt Lewis, men all employd in dressing ther Skins mending their clothes and putting ther arms in the best order the latter being always a matter of attention with us. The Dress of those natives differ but little from those on the Koskoskia and Lewis's rivers, except the women who dress verry different in as much as those above ware long leather Shirts which highly ornimented with heeds Shells &c. &c. and those on the main Columbia river only ware a truss or pece of leather tied around them at their hips and drawn tite between ther legs and fastened before So as barly to hide those parts which are So Sacredly hid & Scured by our women. Those women are more inclined to Copulency than any we have yet Seen, with low Stature broad faces, heads flatened and the foward compressed so as to form a Streight line from the nose to the Crown of the head, their eyes are of a Duskey black, their hair of a corse black without orniments of any kind braded as above, The orniments of each Sects are Similar, Such as large blue & white beeds, either pendant from their ears or encircling their necks, or wrists & arms. they also ware bracelets of Brass, Copper & horn, and trinkets of Shells, fish bones and curious feathers. Their garments Consists of a short Shirt of leather and a roabe of the Skins of Deer or the Antilope but fiew of them ware Shirts all have Short robes. Those people appears to live in a State of comparitive happiness; they take a greater Share labor of the woman, than is common among Savage tribes, and as I am informd. Content with one wife (as also those on the Ki moo e nim river) Those people respect the aged with veneration, I observed an old woman in one of the Lodges which I entered She was entirely blind as I was informed by Signs, had lived more than 100 winters, She occupied the best position in the house, and when She Spoke great attention was paid to what She Said-. Those people as also those of the flat heads which we had passed on the Koskoske and Lewis's rivers are Subject to Sore eyes, and maney are blind of one and Some of both eyes. this misfortune must be owing to the reflections of the Sun &c. on the waters in which they are continually fishing during the Spring Summer & fall, & the Snows dureing the, winter Seasons, in this open countrey where the eye has no rest. I have observed amongst those, as well in all other tribes which I have passed on these waters who live on fish maney of different Sectes who have lost their teeth about middle age, Some have their teeth worn to the gums, perticelar those of the upper jaws, and the tribes generally have bad teeth the cause of it I cannot account sand attachd. to the roots &c the method they have of useing the dri'd Salmon, which is mearly worming it and eating the rine & Scales with the flesh of the fish, no doubt contributes to it
I took two men in a small canoe and paddled up the Columbia River for 10 miles to an island near the starboard shore, where two large mat lodges of Native Americans were drying salmon. They communicated with me through signs, explaining that they did this for food and fuel. I wouldn’t be surprised if they also used dried fish as fuel. The number of dead salmon on the shores and floating in the river is incredible to say, and at this time of year, they simply need to collect the fish, split them open, and dry them on their numerous scaffolds. I couldn't learn how far they had to raft the timber for their scaffolds, but there was no wood of any kind in sight except for some small willow bushes around the island. The locals showed me the entrance to a large westerly fork they call Tapetett, about 8 miles away. Since it was late in the evening, I decided to return to the forks, which I reached by nightfall. From that point up the Columbia River, it's N. 83° W. for 6 miles to the lower point of an island near the larboard side. I passed another island in the middle of the river at the 5-mile mark, at the head of which was a rapid that wasn't dangerous. Across from this rapid, on the larboard side, was a fishing spot with 3 mat lodges and many salmon drying on scaffolds. I saw countless dead salmon on the shores and floating in the water, and there were many Native Americans on the banks watching me, accompanied by 18 canoes from the point. The waters of this river are clear, and you can see a salmon at a depth of 15 or 20 feet. I went west for 4 miles to the lower point of a large island near the starboard side, where there were 2 lodges. I passed three large lodges on the starboard side, near which a great number of salmon were drying on scaffolds. I entered one of those mat lodges and found it crowded with men, women, and children. Near the entrance, I saw many squaws engaged in splitting and drying salmon. I was given a mat to sit on, and one man started preparing something for me to eat. First, he brought in a piece of a drift log of pine and, using a wedge made from an elk's horn and a stone mallet, he split the log into small pieces and laid it open on the fire. He placed round stones on it, and a woman handed him a basket of water and a large salmon that was about half dried. When the stones were hot, he put them into the water basket with the fish, which was soon cooked enough to eat. It was then taken out, put on a neatly made platter of rushes, and set before me. They boiled a salmon for each of the men with me. During these preparations, I smoked with those around me who chose to, though not many did, as smoking is not a common custom for these people. After enjoying the delicious boiled fish, I set out and made a stop on the island with the two lodges. I was given several fish in return for small pieces of ribbon from those lodges. The natives showed me the mouth of the Tapteel River, about 8 miles upstream on the west side. This western fork appears to run nearly west, while the main Columbia River runs northwest. There is a range of high land to the southwest, parallel to the river and about 2 miles away on the larboard side. The country is low on the starboard side and covered with a plant about 2 to 3 feet high that resembles whins. I can see a range of mountains to the east that stretch north and south, about 50 or 60 miles away. There is no wood visible in any direction. On my return, I was followed by 3 canoes containing 20 Native Americans. I shot a large prairie chicken, several grouse, ducks, and fish. Upon my return, I found a great number of the natives with Captain Lewis, all involved in dressing their skins, mending their clothes, and preparing their arms, which is always a matter of focus for us. The dress of these natives is similar to those on the Koskoskia and Lewis rivers, except for the women, who dress very differently. The women up river wear long leather shirts adorned with beads and shells, while those on the main Columbia River only wear a piece of leather tied around their hips and drawn tightly between their legs, barely covering their private parts. These women are more inclined to curviness than any I've seen so far, with short stature, broad faces, and heads flattened to create a straight line from the nose to the crown of the head. Their eyes are dark black, and their coarse black hair is styled without any ornaments. The ornaments of each group are similar, including large blue and white beads, either hanging from their ears or worn around their necks, wrists, and arms. They also wear bracelets of brass, copper, and horn, and trinkets made from shells, fish bones, and interesting feathers. Their garments consist of short leather shirts and robes made from deer or antelope skins, though few wear shirts; all have short robes. These people seem to live in a state of comparative happiness. They share more labor with women than is typical among savage tribes, and, as I’ve been informed, they are content with one wife, similar to those on the Kimooenim River. They hold the elderly in high regard; I noticed an old woman in one of the lodges I entered. She was completely blind, as indicated through signs, and had lived for over 100 winters. She occupied the best spot in the house, and when she spoke, everyone paid close attention to her words. Like those of the Flatheads we passed on the Koskoskia and Lewis rivers, this group is susceptible to sore eyes, with many individuals blind in one or both eyes. This misfortune must stem from sunlight reflections off the waters where they fish continually during the spring, summer, and fall, as well as during the snowy winter seasons, in this open country where their eyes receive no rest. I have noticed among these groups, as well as all other tribes I’ve encountered along these waters that rely on fish, that many of different tribes have lost their teeth by middle age; some have their teeth worn down to the gums, particularly those of the upper jaw. Generally, the tribes have poor dental health, which I can’t explain; it could be due to the sand attached to their roots, among other reasons. Their method of eating dried salmon is simply to soak it in water and consume the skin and scales along with the flesh of the fish, which undoubtedly contributes to dental issues.
The Houses or Lodges of the tribes of the main Columbia river is of large mats made of rushes, Those houses are from 15 to 60 feet in length generally of an Oblong Squar form, Suported by poles on forks in the iner Side, Six feet high, the top is covered also with mats leaveing a Seperation in the whole length of about 12 or 15 inches wide, left for the purpose of admitting light and for the Smok of the fire to pass which is made in the middle of the house.—The roughfs are nearly flat, which proves to me that rains are not common in this open Countrey
The houses or lodges of the tribes along the main Columbia River are made of large mats woven from rushes. These houses range from 15 to 60 feet in length and are generally rectangular in shape, supported by poles that fork on the inside. They stand about six feet high, and the top is also covered with mats, leaving a gap of about 12 to 15 inches along the entire length for light to come in and for smoke from the fire, which is made in the center of the house, to escape. The roofs are nearly flat, which suggests to me that rain is not common in this open country.
Those people appeare of a mild disposition and friendly disposedThey have in their huts independant of their nets gigs & fishing tackling each bows & large quivers of arrows on which they use flint Spikes. Theire ammusements are Similar to those of the Missouri. they are not beggerley and receive what is given them with much joy.
Those people seem to be mild-mannered and friendly. They have their own huts, independent of their nets, gigs, and fishing gear, each with bows and large quivers of arrows fitted with flint tips. Their pastimes are similar to those of the Missouri people. They are not beggars and accept what is given to them with great joy.
I saw but flew horses they appeared make but little use of those animals principally useing Canoes for their uses of procureing food &c.
I saw only a few horses, and they seemed to be of little use. They mainly relied on canoes to get food and other supplies.
[Clark, October 18, 1805]
October 18th Friday 1805 a cold morning faire & wind from S E Several Heath hens or large Pheasents lit near us & the men killed Six of them.
October 18th, Friday, 1805: a cold morning, clear skies, and a wind from the southeast. Several heath hens or large pheasants landed nearby, and the men killed six of them.
Took one altitude of the Suns upper Limb 28° 22' 15" at h m s 8 1 24 A.M.
Several Indian Canoes Come down & joind those with us, made a Second Chief by giveing a meadel & wampom I also gave a String of wampom to the old Chief who came down with us and informed the Indians of our views and intentions in a council
Several Indian canoes came down and joined those with us, and we made a second chief by giving him a medal and wampum. I also gave a string of wampum to the old chief who came down with us and informed the Indians of our views and intentions in a council.
Measured the width of the Columbia River, from the Point across to a Point of view is S 22° W from the Point up the Columa to a Point of view is N. 84° W. 148 poles, thence across to the 1st point of view is S 281/2 E
Measured the width of the Columbia River, from the Point across to a Point of view is S 22° W from the Point up the Columa to a Point of view is N. 84° W. 148 poles, then across to the 1st point of view is S 28½ E.
Measured the width of Ki moo e nim River, from the Point across to an object on the opposit side is N. 411/2 E from the Point up the river is N. 8 E. 82 poles thence accross to the Point of view is N. 79° East
Measured the width of Ki Moo E Nim River, from the Point across to an object on the opposite side is N. 41.5° E. From the Point up the river is N. 8° E. 82 poles then across to the Point of view is N. 79° East.
Distance across the Columbia 9603/4 yds water
Distance across the Columbia: 9603.75 yards of water
Distance across the Ki-moo-e nim 575 yds water
Distance across the Ki-moo-e nim is 575 yards of water.
Names of this nation above the mouth of the Ki-moo-e-nim is So-Kulk Perced noses The Names of the nation on the Kimoenim River is Chopun-nish Piercd noses at the Prarie the name of a nation at the Second forks of the Tape tele River, or Nocktock fork Chim-na-pum, Some of which reside with the So kulkc above this-at and a few miles distance,—4 men in a Canoe come up from below Stayed a fiew minits and returned.
Names of this nation above the mouth of the Kimooenim River are So-Kulk Pierced Noses. The names of the nation on the Kimooenim River are Chopunnish Pierced Noses. At the prairie, the name of a nation at the second forks of the Tape Tele River, or Nocktock Fork, is Chimnapum. Some of them live with the So-Kulk above this location, just a few miles away. Four men in a canoe came up from downstream, stayed for a few minutes, and then returned.
Took a meridian altitude 68° 57' 30" the Suns upper Limb. The Lattitudes produced is 46° 15' 13 9/10" North, Capt Lewis took a vocabillary of the So kulk or Pierced noses Language and Chim-nd-pum Language whic is in Some words different but orriginally the Same people The Great Chief Cuts-Sa.h nim gave me a Sketch of the rivers & Tribes above on the great river & its waters on which he put great numbers of villages of his nation & friends, as noted on the Sketch
Took a meridian altitude of 68° 57' 30" of the Sun's upper limb. The resulting latitude is 46° 15' 13.9" North. Captain Lewis recorded a vocabulary of the So kulk or Pierced Nose language and the Chim-nd-pum language, which differ in some words but originally come from the same people. The Great Chief Cuts-Sa.h nim gave me a sketch of the rivers and tribes above on the great river and its waters, marking many villages of his nation and allies as noted on the sketch.
The fish being very bad those which was offerd to us we had every reason to believe was taken up on the Shore dead, we thought proper not to purchase any, we purchased forty dogs for which we gave articles of little value, Such as beeds, bell, & thimbles, of which they appeard verry fond, at 4 OClock we Set out down the Great Columbia accompand by our two old Chiefs, one young man wished to accompany us, but we had no room for more, & he could be of no Service to us
The fish offered to us was in such bad condition that we had every reason to believe it had been taken from the shore dead, so we decided not to buy any. Instead, we purchased forty dogs, giving away items of little value like beads, bells, and thimbles, which they seemed to really like. At 4 o'clock, we set out down the Great Columbia, accompanied by our two old chiefs. One young man wanted to join us, but we had no space for anyone else, and he wouldn't have been any help to us.
The Great Chief Continued with us untill our departure.
The Great Chief stayed with us until we left.
we Encamped a little below & opsd. the lower point of the Island on the Lard. Side no wood to be found we were obliged to make use Small drid willows to Cook—our old Chief informed us that the great Chief of all the nations about lived at the 9 Lodges above and wished us to land &c. he Said he would go up and Call him over they went up and did not return untill late at night, about 20 came down & built a fire above and Stayed all night. The chief brought a basket of mashed berries.
We set up camp a little lower down and across from the lower point of the island on the left side. There was no wood available, so we had to use small dried willows to cook. Our chief told us that the great chief of all the neighboring nations lived at the 9 lodges above and wanted us to land, etc. He said he would go up and call him over. They went up and didn't come back until late at night. About 20 of them came down, built a fire above, and stayed the night. The chief brought a basket of mashed berries.
[Clark, October 18, 1805]
October 18th Friday 1805 This morning Cool and fare wind from the S. E. Six of the large Prarie cock killed this morning. Several canoes of Indians Came down and joined those with us, we had a council with those in which we informed of our friendly intentions towards them and all other of our red children; of our wish to make a piece between all of our red Children in this quarter &c. &c. this was conveyed by Signs thro our 2 Chiefs who accompanied us, and was understood, we made a 2d Chief and gave Strings of wompom to them all in remembrance of what we Said—four men in a Canoe came up from a large encampment on an Island in the River about 8 miles below, they delayed but a fiew minits and returned, without Speaking a word to us.
October 18th, Friday, 1805 This morning was cool with a nice breeze from the southeast. Six large prairie chickens were killed this morning. Several canoes of Indians came down and joined those with us. We held a council with them where we expressed our friendly intentions towards them and all our red children, and our desire to establish peace among all our red children in this area, etc. This was communicated through signs by our two chiefs who accompanied us, and it was understood. We appointed a second chief and gave strings of wampum to all in remembrance of what we said. Four men in a canoe came up from a large encampment on an island in the river about eight miles downstream. They lingered for just a few minutes and then left without saying a word to us.
The Great Chief and one of the Chim-na pum nation drew me a Sketch of the Columbia above and the tribes of his nation, living on the bank, and its waters, and the Tape tett river which falls in 18 miles above on the westerly side See Sketch below for the number of villages and nations &c. &c.
The Great Chief and a member of the Chim-na pum nation drew me a sketch of the Columbia River above, along with the tribes of his nation living along its banks and waters, and the Tape tett river that merges 18 miles upstream on the west side. See the sketch below for the number of villages and nations, etc., etc.
We thought it necessary to lay in a Store of Provisions for our voyage, and the fish being out of Season, we purchased forty dogs for which we gave articles of little value, Such as bells, thimbles, knitting pins, brass wire & a few beeds all of which they appeared well Satisfied and pleased.
We felt it was important to stock up on supplies for our trip, and since fish was out of season, we bought forty dogs, giving items of little value in exchange, like bells, thimbles, knitting pins, brass wire, and a few beads, all of which they seemed happy and satisfied with.
every thing being arranged we took in our Two Chiefs, and Set out on the great Columbia river, haveing left our guide and the two young men two of them enclined not to proceed on any further, and the 3rd could be of no Service to us as he did not know the river below
Everything being arranged, we took on our two chiefs and set off on the great Columbia River, having left our guide and the two young men behind—two of them were reluctant to proceed any further, and the third would be of no help to us since he didn’t know the river downstream.
Took our leave of the Chiefs and all those about us and proceeded on down the great Columbia river passed a large Island at 8 miles about 3 miles in length, a Island on the Stard. Side the upper point of which is opposit the center of the last mentioned Island and reaches 31/2 miles below the 1st. Island and opposit to this near the middle of the river nine Lodges are Situated on the upper point at a rapid which is between the lower point of the 1st Island and upper point of this; great numbers of Indians appeared to be on this Island, and emence quantites of fish Scaffold we landed a few minits to view a rapid which Commenced at the lower point, passd this rapid which was verry bad between 2 Small Islands two Still Smaller near the Lard. Side, at this rapid on the Stard. Side is 2 Lodges of Indians Drying fish, at 21/2 miles lower and 141/2 below the point passed an Island Close under the Stard. Side on which was 2 Lodges of Indians drying fish on Scaffolds as above at 16 miles from the point the river passesinto the range of high Countrey at which place the rocks project into the river from the high clifts which is on the Lard. Side about 2/3 of the way across and those of the Stard Side about the Same distance, the Countrey rises here about 200 feet above The water and is bordered with black rugid rocks, at the Commencement of this high Countrey on Lard Side a Small riverlet falls in which appears to passed under the high County in its whole cose Saw a mountain bearing S. W. Conocal form Covered with Snow. passed 4 Islands, at the upper point of the 3rd is a rapid, on this Island is two Lodges of Indians, drying fish, on the fourth Island Close under the Stard. Side is nine large Lodges of Indians Drying fish on Scaffolds as above at this place we were called to land, as it was near night and no appearance of wood, we proceeded on about 2 miles lower to Some willows, at which place we observed a drift log formed a Camp on the Lard Side under a high hill nearly opposit to five Lodges of Indians; Soon after we landed, our old Chiefs informed us that the large camp above "was the Camp of the 1st Chief of all the tribes in this quarter, and that he had called to us to land and Stay all night with him, that he had plenty of wood for us &" This would have been agreeable to us if it had have been understood perticelarly as we were compelled to Use drid willows for fuel for the purpose of cooking, we requested the old Chiefs to walk up on the Side we had landed and call to the Chief to come down and Stay with us all night which they did; late at night the Chief came down accompanied by 20 men, and formed a Camp a Short distance above, the chief brought with him a large basket of mashed berries which he left at our Lodge as a present. I saw on the main land opposit those Lodges a number of horses feeding, we made 21 miles to day.
We said our goodbyes to the Chiefs and everyone around us and continued down the great Columbia River, passing a large island about 8 miles long. There’s another island on the starboard side, whose upper point is opposite the center of the previous island and extends 3.5 miles below it. Near the middle of the river, nine lodges are situated at a rapid between the lower point of the first island and the upper point of the second. There seemed to be a lot of Indians on this island, and an immense amount of fish scaffolds. We stopped for a few minutes to look at a rapid that started at the lower point, then we navigated through this challenging rapid between two small islands, both of which are near the larboard side. At this rapid, there are two lodges on the starboard side where Indians are drying fish. Two and a half miles further down, and 14.5 miles from the point, we passed an island close to the starboard side where there were two lodges of Indians drying fish on scaffolds, just like before. At 16 miles from the point, the river enters an area of high country, where the rocks jut into the river from the steep cliffs on the larboard side about two-thirds of the way across, and the cliffs on the starboard side are about the same distance out. The land rises here about 200 feet above the water and is bordered by rugged black rocks. At the beginning of this high country on the larboard side, a small stream flows in, appearing to run beneath the high ground. I saw a snow-covered mountain to the southwest with a conical shape. We passed four islands; at the upper point of the third island is a rapid, and on this island are two lodges of Indians drying fish. On the fourth island, close to the starboard side, there are nine large lodges of Indians drying fish on scaffolds as mentioned earlier. At this spot, we were called to land, as it was getting dark and there was no wood around, so we continued about 2 miles down to some willows, where we noticed a drift log forming a camp on the larboard side under a high hill, nearly opposite five lodges of Indians. Soon after we landed, our old chiefs informed us that the large camp above was the camp of the first chief of all the tribes in the area, and that he had called to us to land and stay the night with him, as he had plenty of wood for us. This would have been nice if it had been clearly understood, as we had to use dried willows for cooking fuel. We asked the old chiefs to walk along the side where we had landed and call the chief to come down and stay with us for the night, which they did. Late at night, the chief came down with 20 men and set up a camp a short distance above us. The chief brought a large basket of mashed berries, which he left at our lodge as a gift. I noticed a number of horses feeding on the mainland opposite those lodges. We traveled 21 miles today.
[Clark, October 19, 1805]
October 19th Saturday, The Great Chief 2d Chief and a Chief of a band below Came and Smoked with us we gave a Meadel a String of Wampom & handkerchef to the Great Chief by name Yel-leppit The 2d Chief we gave a String of wampom, his name is ____ The 3d who lives below a String of Wampom his name I did not learn. the Chief requested us to Stay untill 12 we excused our Selves and Set out at 9 oClock
October 19th, Saturday, The Great Chief, the 2nd Chief, and a Chief from a nearby band came and shared a smoke with us. We presented a medal, a string of wampum, and a handkerchief to the Great Chief named Yel-leppit. We gave the 2nd Chief a string of wampum; his name is ____. The 3rd Chief, who lives below, received a string of wampum, but I didn’t catch his name. The Chief asked us to stay until noon, but we politely declined and set out at 9 o'clock.
P. Crusat played on the Violin which pleasd and astonished those reches who are badly Clad, 3/4 with robes not half large enough to cover them, they are homeley high Cheeks, and but fiew orniments. I Suped on the Crane which I killed to day.
P. Crusat played the violin, which pleased and amazed those rich people who were poorly dressed, three-quarters of them in robes that were not nearly large enough to cover them, with their unattractive high cheekbones and very few ornaments. I had supper on the crane that I killed today.
[Clark, October 19, 1805]
October 19th Saturday 1805 The great chief Yel-lep-pit two other chiefs, and a Chief of Band below presented themselves to us verry early this morning. we Smoked with them, enformed them as we had all others above as well as we Could by Signs of our friendly intentions towards our red children Perticular those who opened their ears to our Councils. we gave a Medal, a Handkercheif & a String of Wompom to Yelleppit and a String of wompom to each of the others. Yelleppit is a bold handsom Indian, with a dignified countenance about 35 years of age, about 5 feet 8 inches high and well perpotiond. he requested us to delay untill the Middle of the day, that his people might Come down and See us, we excused our Selves and promised to Stay with him one or 2 days on our return which appeared to Satisfy him; great numbers of Indians Came down in Canoes to view us before we Set out which was not untill 9 oClock A M. we proceeded on passed a Island, close under the Lard Side about Six miles in length opposit to the lower point of which two Isds. are situated on one of which five Lodges vacent & Saffolds drying fish at the upper point of this Island Swift water. a Short distance below passed two Islands; one near the middle of the river on which is Seven lodges of Indians drying fish, at our approach they hid themselves in their Lodges and not one was to be seen untill we passed, they then Came out in greater numbers than is common in Lodges of their Size, it is probable that, the inhabitants of the 5 Lodges above had in a fright left their lodges and decended to this place to defend them Selves if attackted there being a bad rapid opposit the Island thro which we had to pass prevented our landing on this Island and passifying those people, about four miles below this fritened Island we arrived at the head of a verry bad rapid, we came too on the Lard Side to view the rapid before we would venter to run it, as the Chanel appeared to be close under the oppd. Shore, and it would be necessary to liten our canoe, I deturmined to walk down on the Lard Side, with the 2 Chiefs the interpreter & his woman, and derected the Small canoe to prcede down on the Lard Side to the foot of the rapid which was about 2 miles in length I Sent on the Indian Chiefs &c. down and I assended a high clift about 200 feet above the water from the top of which is a leavel plain extending up the river and off for a great extent, at this place the Countrey becoms low on each Side of the river, and affords a prospect of the river and countrey below for great extent both to the right and left; from this place I descovered a high mountain of emence hight covered with Snow, this must be one of the mountains laid down by Vancouver, as Seen from the mouth of the Columbia River, from the Course which it bears which is West I take it to be Mt. St. Helens, destant 156 miles a range of mountains in the Derection crossing, a conacal mountain S. W. toped with Snow This rapid I observed as I passed opposit to it to be verry bad interseped with high rock and Small rockey Islands, here I observed banks of Muscle Shells banked up in the river in Several places, I Delayed at the foot of the rapid about 2 hours for the Canoes which I Could See met with much dificuelty in passing down the rapid on the oposit Side maney places the men were obliged to get into the water and haul the canoes over Sholes—while Setting on a rock wateing for Capt Lewis I Shot a Crain which was flying over of the common kind. I observed a great number of Lodges on the opposit Side at Some distance below and Several Indians on the opposit bank passing up to where Capt. Lewis was with the Canoes, others I Saw on a knob nearly opposit to me at which place they delayed but a Short time before they returned to their Lodges as fast as they could run, I was fearfull that those people might not be informed of us, I deturmined to take the little Canoe which was with me and proceed with the three men in it to the Lodges, on my aproach not one person was to be Seen except three men off in the plains, and they Sheared off as I aproached near the Shore, I landed in front of five Lodges which was at no great distance from each other, Saw no person the enteranc or Dores of the Lodges wer Shut with the Same materials of which they were built a mat, I approached one with a pipe in my hand entered a lodge which was the nearest to me found 32 persons men, women and a few children Setting permiscuesly in the Lodg, in the greatest agutation, Some crying and ringing there hands, others hanging their heads. I gave my hand to them all and made Signs of my friendly dispotion and offered the men my pipe to Smok and distributed a fiew Small articles which I had in my pockets,-this measure passified those distressed people verry much, I then Sent one man into each lodge and entered a Second myself the inhabitants of which I found more fritened than those of the first lodge I destributed Sundrey Small articles amongst them, and Smoked with the men, I then entered the third 4h & fifth Lodge which I found Somewhat passified, the three men, Drewer Jo. & R. Fields, haveing useed everey means in their power to convince them of our friendly disposition to them, I then Set my Self on a rock and made Signs to the men to come and Smoke with me not one Come out untill the Canoes arrived with the 2 Chiefs, one of whom spoke aloud, and as was their Custom to all we had passed the Indians came out & Set by me and Smoked They said we came from the clouds &c &c and were not men &c. &c. this time Capt. Lewis came down with the Canoes rear in which the Indian, as Soon as they Saw the Squar wife of the interperters they pointed to her and informed those who continued yet in the Same position I first found them, they imediately all came out and appeared to assume new life, the sight of This Indian woman, wife to one of our interprs. confirmed those people of our friendly intentions, as no woman ever accompanies a war party of Indians in this quarter—Capt Lewis joined us and we Smoked with those people in the greatest friendship, dureing which time one of our Old Chiefs informed them who we were from whence we Came and where we were going giveing them a friendly account of us, those people do not Speak prosisely the Same language of those above but understand them, I Saw Several Horses and persons on hors back in the plains maney of the men womin and children Came up from the Lodges below; all of them appeared pleased to See us, we traded some fiew articles for fish and berries, Dined, and proceeded on passed a Small rapid and 15 Lodges below the five, and Encamped below an Island Close under the Lard Side, nearly opposit to 24 Lodges on an Island near the middle of the river, and the Main Stard Shor Soon after we landed which was at a fiew willow trees about 100 Indians Came from the different Lodges, and a number of them brought wood which they gave us, we Smoked with all of them, and two of our Party Peter Crusat & Gibson played on the violin which delighted them greatly, we gave to the principal man a String of wompon treated them kindly for which they appeared greatfull, This Tribe can raise about 350 men their Dress are Similar to those at the fork except their robes are Smaller and do not reach lower than the waste and 3/4 of them have Scercely any robes at all, the women have only a Small pece of a robe which Covers their Sholders neck and reaching down behind to their wastes, with a tite piece of leather about the waste, the brests are large and hang down verry low illy Shaped, high Cheeks flattened heads, & have but fiew orniments, they are all employed in fishing and drying fish of which they have great quantites on their Scaffolds, their habits customs &c. I could not lern. I killed a Duck that with the Crain afforded us a good Supper. the Indians continued all night at our fires
October 19th, Saturday, 1805 This morning, the great chief Yel-lep-pit, two other chiefs, and a chief from the Band below came to see us very early. We shared a smoke with them and conveyed our friendly intentions towards our red children, particularly to those who listened to our councils, using signs to communicate. We gave a medal, a handkerchief, and a string of wampum to Yel-lep-pit, and a string of wampum to each of the others. Yel-lep-pit is a bold, handsome Indian, with a dignified presence, about 35 years old, approximately 5 feet 8 inches tall, and well-proportioned. He asked us to wait until midday so his people could come down and see us. We excused ourselves and promised to stay with him for one or two days on our return, which seemed to satisfy him. A large number of Indians came down in canoes to see us before we set out, which wasn't until 9 o'clock AM. We continued on and passed an island on the left side, approximately six miles long. Opposite the lower point of this island were two small islands, one of which had five empty lodges and scaffolds drying fish at the upper end of Swift Water. A short distance below, we passed two islands; one in the middle of the river had seven lodges of Indians drying fish. When we approached, they hid in their lodges, and no one was visible until we passed. They then came out in numbers larger than usual for lodges of that size. It’s likely the inhabitants of the five lodges above fled in fear to this location to defend themselves due to a bad rapid across from the island, which prevented us from landing there and reassuring those people. About four miles below this frightened island, we reached the head of a very bad rapid. We stopped on the left side to assess the rapid before risking it, as the channel appeared narrow along the opposite shore, making it necessary to lighten our canoe. I decided to walk down on the left side with the two chiefs, the interpreter, and his woman, directing the small canoe to proceed down the left side to the foot of the rapid, which was about two miles long. I sent the Indian chiefs ahead and climbed a high cliff, about 200 feet above the water, where the land became low on each side of the river, providing a broad view of the river and the surrounding country. From this vantage point, I spotted a high mountain covered in snow, likely one of the mountains noted by Vancouver as seen from the mouth of the Columbia River. Given its westward position, I believe it to be Mt. St. Helens, approximately 156 miles away, part of a mountain range leading in that direction, with a conical shape topped with snow. As I observed the rapid from across, I noticed it was very treacherous, filled with high rocks and small rocky islands. Here, I saw banks of mussel shells piled in several places in the river. I waited about two hours at the foot of the rapid for the canoes, which were struggling to make their way down on the opposite side. Many times, the men had to wade into the water to haul the canoes over shallow spots. While sitting on a rock waiting for Captain Lewis, I shot a crane flying overhead. I noticed a lot of lodges on the opposite side and several Indians on that bank moving toward where Captain Lewis was with the canoes. Others were positioned almost directly opposite me, and they left quickly, running back to their lodges. Concerned that these people might not know about us, I decided to take the small canoe that was with me and head to the lodges. As I got closer, no one was in sight except for three men off in the plains, who also hurried away as I approached the shore. I landed in front of five lodges that were not far apart, but I saw no one, and the doors of the lodges were shut with mats made from the same materials as their constructions. I went to one lodge with a pipe in hand, entered the closest one, and found 32 men, women, and a few children sitting together in disarray, some crying and wringing their hands, while others hung their heads. I offered my hand to each of them, communicated my friendly intent through gestures, shared my pipe for them to smoke, and distributed a few small items I had in my pockets. This helped calm the distressed people significantly. I then sent one man into each lodge and entered a second lodge myself, where the inhabitants seemed even more frightened than those in the first. I gave out more small items and smoked with the men. I then entered the third, fourth, and fifth lodges, where I found the mood somewhat improved. The three men—Drewer, Jo., and R. Fields—had used every means to show our friendly intentions. I sat on a rock and gestured for the men to come out and join me for a smoke. No one came out until the canoes arrived with the two chiefs, one of whom spoke loudly, and, as was their tradition, all the Indians we had passed emerged and sat by me to smoke. They said we came from the clouds and were not men, etc. At that moment, Captain Lewis came down with the canoes, and when the Indians saw the interpreter's square wife, they pointed her out and informed those still inside their lodges. Immediately, they all came out, appearing revitalized; the sight of the interpreter's wife reassured them of our friendly intentions since no woman would accompany a war party of Indians in this area. Captain Lewis joined us, and we smoked with the people in the best of spirits. During this time, one of our older chiefs informed them about us, our origins, and our destination, giving them a friendly account. Those people don’t speak precisely the same language as the others we've met, but they understand them. I saw several horses and people on horseback in the plains, and many men, women, and children came up from the lodges below. They all seemed pleased to see us. We traded a few items for fish and berries, had lunch, and moved on past a small rapid with 15 lodges below the five. We camped below an island close to the left side, nearly opposite to 24 lodges on an island near the middle of the river. Just after we landed, which was near a few willow trees, about 100 Indians came from the various lodges, and many of them brought wood for us. We shared a smoke with everyone, and two of our party members, Peter Crusat and Gibson, played the violin, which delighted them greatly. We gave the chief a string of wampum and treated them kindly, for which they seemed very grateful. This tribe can raise about 350 men; their clothing is similar to those at the fork but smaller and doesn't go lower than the waist, with three-quarters of them hardly having any robes. The women wear just a small piece of robe covering their shoulders and neck, reaching down to their waists, with a tight piece of leather around their waist. The women have large breasts that hang low, poorly shaped, with high cheekbones and flattened heads, and they have very few ornaments. They are all busy fishing and drying fish, of which they have large quantities on their scaffolds; I could not learn much about their habits and customs. I shot a duck, which along with the crane made for a good supper. The Indians stayed by our fires all night.
This day we made 36 miles.
[Clark, October 20, 1805]
October 20th 1805 Sunday a very cold morning wind S. W. about 100 Indians Came over this morning to See us, after a Smoke, a brackfast on Dogs flesh we Set out. about 350 men
October 20th, 1805, Sunday, a very cold morning with a southwest wind. About 100 Indians came over this morning to see us. After a smoke and breakfast of dog meat, we set out with about 350 men.
Killed 2 large speckle guts 4 Duck in Malade Small ducks the flavour of which much resembles the Canvis back no timber of any kind on the river, we Saw in the last Lodges acorns of the white oake which the Inds. inform they precure above the falls The men are badly dressed, Some have scarlet & blue cloth robes. one has a Salors jacket, The women have a Short indiferent Shirt, a Short robe of Deer or Goat Skins, & a Small Skin which they fastend. tite around their bodies & fastend. between the legs to hide the
Killed 2 large speckled ducks in Malade. Small ducks that taste a lot like the canvasback. There’s no timber of any kind along the river. We saw in the last lodges acorns from the white oak, which the Indians say they gather upstream of the falls. The men are poorly dressed; some have scarlet and blue cloth robes, and one has a sailor's jacket. The women wear a short, plain shirt, a short robe made of deer or goat skins, and a small skin that they tie tightly around their bodies and fasten between their legs to cover themselves.
[Clark, October 20, 1805]
October 20th Sunday 1805 A cool morning wind S. W. we concluded to delay untill after brackfast which we were obliged to make on the flesh of dog. after brackfast we gave all the Indian men Smoke, and we Set out leaveing about 200 of the nativs at our Encampment; passd. three Indian Lodges on the Lard Side a little below our Camp which lodges I did not discover last evening, passed a rapid at Seven miles one at a Short distance below we passed a verry bad rapid, a chane of rocks makeing from the Stard. Side and nearly Chokeing the river up entirely with hugh black rocks, an Island below close under the Stard. Side on which was four Lodges of Indians drying-fish,—here I Saw a great number of pelicons on the wing, and black Comerants. at one oClock we landed on the lower point of an Island at Some Indian Lodges, a large Island on the Stard Side nearly opposit and a Small one a little below on the Lard Side on those three Island I counted Seventeen Indian Lodges, those people are in every respect like those above, prepareing fish for theire winter consumption here we purchased a fiew indifferent Dried fish & a fiew berries on which we dined-(On the upper part of this Island we discovered an Indian vault) our curiosity induced us to examine the methot those nativs practicd in diposeing the dead, the Vaut was made by broad poads and pieces of Canoes leaning on a ridge pole which was Suported by 2 forks Set in the ground Six feet in hight in an easterly and westerly direction and about 60 feet in length, and 12 feet wide, in it I observed great numbers of humane bones of every description perticularly in a pile near the Center of the vault, on the East End 21 Scul bomes forming a circle on Mats-; in the Westerley part of the Vault appeared to be appropriated for those of more resent death, as many of the bodies of the deceased raped up in leather robes lay on board covered with mats, &c we observed, independant of the canoes which Served as a Covering, fishing nets of various kinds, Baskets of different Sizes, wooden boles, robes Skins, trenchers, and various Kind of trinkets, in and Suspended on the ends of the pieces forming the vault; we also Saw the Skeletons of Several Horses at the vault & great number of bones about it, which Convinced me that those animals were Sacrefised as well as the above articles to the Deceased.) after diner we proceeded on to a bad rapid at the lower point of a Small Island on which four Lodges of Indians were Situated drying fish; here the high countrey Commences again on the Stard. Side leaveing a vallie of 40 miles in width, from the mustle Shel rapid. examined and passed this rapid close to the Island at 8 miles lower passed a large Island near the middle of the river a brook on the Stard. Side and 11 Islds. all in view of each other below, a riverlit falls in on the Lard. Side behind a Small Island a Small rapid below. The Star Side is high rugid hills, the Lard. Side a low plain and not a tree to be Seen in any Direction except a fiew Small willow bushes which are Scattered partially on the Sides of the bank
October 20th, Sunday 1805 It was a cool morning with a southwest wind. We decided to wait until after breakfast, which we had to make with dog meat. After breakfast, we gave all the Indian men some smoke and set out, leaving about 200 of the natives at our camp. We passed three Indian lodges on the left side, a little below our camp, which I hadn’t noticed the previous evening. At seven miles, we went past a rapid, and shortly after, encountered a very bad rapid where a chain of rocks from the starboard side nearly blocked the river with huge black rocks. There was an island below, close to the starboard side, with four Indian lodges where they were drying fish. Here, I saw many pelicans flying and black cormorants. At one o'clock, we landed at the lower point of an island with some Indian lodges. Across the river, on the starboard side, was a large island, and a small one a little below on the left side. On those three islands, I counted seventeen Indian lodges. These people are just like those upstream, preparing fish for their winter food. Here, we bought a few poor dried fish and some berries, which we had for dinner. (On the upper part of this island, we discovered an Indian vault.) Our curiosity led us to examine how these natives disposed of the dead. The vault was made from broad poles and pieces of canoes leaning on a ridge pole supported by two forks set in the ground, six feet high. It was about 60 feet long and 12 feet wide. Inside, I noticed a large number of human bones of various kinds, especially a pile near the center of the vault, and at the east end, 21 skull bones arranged in a circle on mats. The western part of the vault seemed designated for more recently deceased individuals, as many bodies wrapped in leather robes lay on boards, covered with mats, etc. Besides the canoes serving as a covering, we saw fishing nets of various kinds, baskets of different sizes, wooden bowls, robe skins, trenchers, and various kinds of trinkets inside and suspended at the ends of the structure. We also saw the skeletons of several horses in the vault, along with a significant number of bones around it, convincing me that those animals were sacrificed, along with the other items, for the deceased. After dinner, we continued on to a bad rapid at the lower point of a small island where four lodges of Indians were drying fish. Here, the high country begins again on the starboard side, leaving a valley 40 miles wide from the Mussel Shell rapid. We examined and passed this rapid close to the island. Eight miles lower, we passed a large island near the river's center, a brook on the starboard side, and 11 islands, all visible to each other below. A river inlet flows in on the left side behind a small island, followed by a small rapid. The starboard side has high, rugged hills, while the left side is a low plain, without a tree in sight except for a few small willow bushes scattered along the bank.
The river to day is about 1/4 of a mile in width; this evening the Countrey on the Lard. Side rises to the hight of that on the Starboard Side, and is wavering—we made 42 miles to day; the current much more uniform than yesterday or the day before. Killed 2 Speckle guls Severl. ducks of a delicious flavour.
The river today is about a quarter mile wide; this evening, the land on the left side rises to the same height as that on the right side and is uneven—we traveled 42 miles today; the current was much more steady than yesterday or the day before. We killed 2 speckled gulls and several ducks that have a delicious flavor.
[Clark, October 21, 1805]
October 21st 1805 Monday a verry Cold morning we Set out early wind from the S W. we Could not Cook brakfast before we embarked as usial for the want of wood or Something to burn.-
October 21st, 1805, Monday: a very cold morning. We set out early with the wind from the southwest. We couldn't cook breakfast before we embarked, as usual, due to the lack of wood or something to burn.
[Clark, October 21, 1805]
October 21st Monday 1805 A verry cool morning wind from the S. W. we Set out verry early and proceeded on, last night we could not Collect more dry willows the only fuel, than was barely Suffient to cook Supper, and not a Sufficency to cook brackfast this morning, passd. a Small Island at 51/2 miles a large one 8 miles in the middle of the river, Some rapid water at the head and Eight Lodges of nativs opposit its Lower point on the Stard. Side, we came too at those lodges, bought some wood and brackfast. Those people recived us with great kindness, and examined us with much attention, their employments custom Dress and appearance Similar to those above; Speak the Same language, here we Saw two Scarlet and a blue cloth blanket, also a Salors Jacket the Dress of the men of this tribe only a Short robe of Deer or Goat Skins, and that of the womn is a Short piece of Dressed Skin which fall from the neck So as to Cover the front of the body as low as the waste, a Short robe, which is of one Deer or antilope Skin, and a Hap, around their waste and Drawn tite between their legs as before described, their orniments are but fiew, and worn as those above.
October 21st, Monday, 1805 It was a very cool morning with a wind coming from the southwest. We set out very early and continued on. Last night, we couldn't gather more dry willows, which was our only fuel, than just enough to cook dinner, and not enough to make breakfast this morning. We passed a small island at 5.5 miles and a large one 8 miles down the river. There was some rapid water at the head of the large island and eight lodges of natives across from its lower point on the starboard side. We stopped at those lodges, bought some wood and breakfast. The people welcomed us warmly and regarded us with great interest. Their activities, customs, clothing, and appearance were similar to those we had encountered before; they spoke the same language. Here, we saw two scarlet and one blue cloth blanket, as well as a sailor's jacket. The men of this tribe typically wore only a short robe made of deer or goat skins, while the women wore a short piece of dressed skin that fell from the neck to cover the front of the body down to the waist, along with a short robe made from one deer or antelope skin, and a wrap around their waist tightly drawn between their legs as previously described. Their ornaments were few and worn similarly to those we had seen before.
we got from those people a fiew pounded rotes fish and Acorns of the white oake, those Acorns they make use of as food, and inform us they precure them of the nativs who live near the falls below which place they all discribe by the term Timm at 2 miles lower passed a rapid, large rocks Stringing into the river of large Size opposit to this rapid on the Stard. Shore is Situated two Lodges of the nativs drying fish here we halted a fiew minits to examine the rapid before we entered it which was our constant Custom, and at all that was verry dangerous put out all who could not Swim to walk around, after passing this rapid we proceeded on passed anoothe rapid at 5 miles lower down, above this rapid on five Lodges of Indians fishing &c. above this rapid maney large rocks on each Side at Some distance from Shore, one mile passed an Island Close to the Stard. Side, below which is two Lodge of nativs, a little below is a bad rapid which is bad crouded with hugh rocks Scattered in every Direction which renders the pasage verry Difficuelt a little above this rapid on the Lard. Side emence piles of rocks appears as if Sliped from the Clifts under which they lay, passed great number of rocks in every direction Scattered in the river 5 Lodges a little below on the Stard. Side, and one lodge on an Island near the Stard. Shore opposit to which is a verry bad rapid, thro which we found much dificuelty in passing, the river is Crouded with rocks in every direction, after Passing this dificult rapid to the mouth of a Small river on the Larboard Side 40 yards wide descharges but little water at this time, and appears to take its Sourse in the Open plains to the S. E. from this place I proceved Some fiew Small pines on the tops of the high hills and bushes in the hollars. imediately above & below this little river comences a rapid which is crouded with large rocks in every direction, the pasage both crooked and dificuelt, we halted at a Lodge to examine those noumerous Islands of rock which apd. to extend maney miles below,-. great numbs. of Indians came in Canoes to View us at this place, after passing this rapid which we accomplished without loss; winding through between the hugh rocks for about 2 miles-. (from this rapid the Conocil mountain is S. W. which the Indians inform me is not far to the left of the great falls; this I call the Timm or falls mountain it is high and the top is covered with Snow) imediately below the last rapids there is four Lodges of Indians on the Stard. Side, proceeded on about two miles lower and landed and encamped near five Lodges of nativs, drying fish those are the relations of those at the Great falls, they are pore and have but little wood which they bring up the river from the falls as they Say, we purchased a little wood to cook our Dog meat and fish; those people did not recive us at first with the same cordiality of those above, they appeare to be the Same nation Speak the Same language with a little curruption of maney words Dress and fish in the Same way, all of whome have pierced noses and the men when Dressed ware a long taper'd piece of Shell or beed put through the nose-this part of the river is furnished with fine Springs which either rise high up the Sides of the hills or on the bottom near the river and run into the river. the hills are high and rugid a fiew scattering trees to be Seen on them either Small pine or Scrubey white oke.
We got some pounded fish and acorns from those people. They use the acorns as food and told us they get them from the natives who live near the falls, which they refer to as Timm, about 2 miles downstream after passing a rapid. Large rocks stretch into the river opposite this rapid, and on the starboard shore, there are two lodges of natives drying fish. We stopped for a few minutes to examine the rapid before entering it, as was our custom. For anything particularly dangerous, we had all those who couldn’t swim walk around. After passing this rapid, we continued on and passed another rapid 5 miles further down. Above this rapid, there were five lodges of Indians fishing, and many large rocks on each side, some distance from the shore. One mile past an island close to the starboard side, there were two lodges of natives. A little further down, there was a rough rapid filled with huge rocks scattered in every direction, making passage very difficult. Just above this rapid, on the larboard side, immense piles of rocks appeared to have slipped from the cliffs. We passed a great number of rocks scattered in the river, five lodges a little below on the starboard side, and one lodge on an island near the starboard shore. Opposite this was a very bad rapid, through which we had a lot of difficulty passing, as the river was crowded with rocks everywhere. After getting through this difficult rapid, we reached the mouth of a small river on the larboard side, 40 yards wide, which discharges very little water at the moment and appears to originate from the open plains to the southeast. From this point, I noticed some small pines on the tops of the high hills and bushes in the valleys. Immediately above and below this little river begins a rapid crowded with large rocks everywhere, making the passage both crooked and difficult. We stopped at a lodge to check out the many islands of rock that appeared to extend many miles downstream. A great number of Indians came in canoes to see us at this spot. After passing this rapid, which we navigated successfully; we wound our way through the huge rocks for about 2 miles. (From this rapid, the Conocil mountain is to the southwest, which the Indians tell me is not far from the great falls; I call this the Timm or falls mountain. It is high, and its peak is covered with snow). Immediately below the last rapids, there were four lodges of Indians on the starboard side. We proceeded another two miles, landed, and camped near five lodges of natives drying fish. They are related to those at the great falls. They are poor and have little wood, which they bring up the river from the falls, as they say. We bought a little wood to cook our dog meat and fish. These people didn’t welcome us at first with the same warmth as those upstream. They seem to be the same nation, speak the same language with slight corruption of many words, and dress and fish similarly, all of them having pierced noses. The men wear a long tapered piece of shell or bead through their noses when dressed. This part of the river has fine springs that rise high up the hills or near the bottom by the river and flow into it. The hills are tall and rugged, with a few scattered trees visible, either small pines or scrubby white oaks.
The probable reason of the Indians residing on the Stard. Side of this as well as the waters of Lewis's River is their fear of the Snake Indians who reside, as they nativs Say on a great river to the South, and are at war with those tribes, one of the Old Chiefs who accompanies us pointed out a place on the lard. Side where they had a great battle, not maney years ago, in which maney were killed on both Sides-, one of our party J. Collins presented us with Some verry good beer made of the Pashi-co-quar-mash bread, which bread is the remains of what was laid in as Stores of Provisions, at the first flat heads or Cho-punnish Nation at the head of the Kosskoske river which by being frequently wet molded & Sowered &c. we made 33 miles to day.
The likely reason the Native Americans live on the Stard. Side and along the waters of Lewis's River is their fear of the Snake Indians, who the locals say live on a big river to the south and are at war with those tribes. One of the old chiefs traveling with us pointed out a spot on the land side where they had a major battle not too long ago, resulting in many casualties on both sides. One of our group, J. Collins, treated us to some really good beer made from Pashi-co-quar-mash bread, which is what's left from the provisions stored at the first Flatheads or Chopunnish Nation at the head of the Kosskoske River. This bread, having been frequently moistened, molded, and soured, made for an interesting drink. We traveled 33 miles today.
[Clark, October 22, 1805]
October 22nd Tuesday 1805 a fine morning Calm. we Set out at 9 oClock and on the Course S. 52° W. 10 miles passed lodges & Inds. and rapids as mentioned in the Cours of yesterday, from the expiration of
October 22nd, Tuesday, 1805, a beautiful calm morning. We set out at 9 o'clock on a course of S. 52° W. for 10 miles, passing lodges and Indigenous people, as well as rapids, as mentioned in yesterday's course, from the end of
Took our Baggage & formed a Camp below the rapids in a cove on the Stard Side the distance 1200 yards haveing passed at the upper end of the portage 17 Lodges of Indians, below the rapids & above the Camp 5 large Loges of Indians, great numbers of baskets of Pounded fish on the rocks Islands & near their Lodges thos are neetly pounded & put in verry new baskets of about 90 or 100 pounds wight. hire Indians to take our heavy articles across the portage purchased a Dog for Supper Great numbers of Indians view us, we with much dificuelty purchd. as much wood as Cooked our dogs this evening, our men all in helth—The Indians have their grave yards on an Island in the rapids. The Great Chief of those Indians is out hunting. no Indians reside on the Lard Side for fear of the Snake Indians with whome they are at war and who reside on the large fork on the lard. a little above
We took our bags and set up camp below the rapids in a cove on the starboard side, about 1,200 yards away. We passed 17 Indian lodges at the upper end of the portage and found 5 large lodges of Indians below the rapids and above our camp. There were many baskets of pounded fish on the rocks, islands, and near their lodges. These are neatly pounded and packed in very new baskets weighing about 90 to 100 pounds. We hired some Indians to carry our heavy items across the portage and bought a dog for dinner. A lot of Indians were watching us, and we had a hard time getting enough firewood to cook our dogs this evening. All our men are healthy. The Indians have their graveyards on an island in the rapids. The great chief of these Indians is out hunting. No Indians live on the port side because they’re afraid of the Snake Indians, who they’re at war with and who live on the big fork on the port side, a little further up.
[Clark, October 22, 1805]
October 22d Tuesday 1805 A fine morning calm and fare we Set out at 9 oClock passed a verry bad rapid at the head of an Island close under the Stard. Side, above this rapid on the Stard Side is Six Lodges of nativs Drying fish, at 9 mls. passed a bad rapid at the head of a large Island of high, uneaven rocks, jutting over the water, a Small Island in a Stard. Bend opposit the upper point, on which I counted 20 parcels of dryed and pounded fish; on the main Stard Shore opposit to this Island five Lodges of Indians are Situated Several Indians in Canoes killing fish with gigs, &c. opposit the center of this Island of rocks which is about 4 miles long we discovered the enterence of a large river on the Lard. Side which appeared to Come from the S. E.—we landed at Some distance above the mouth of this river and Capt. Lewis and my Self Set out to view this river above its mouth, as our rout was intersepted by a deep narrow Chanel which runs out of this river into the Columbia a little below the place we landed, leaveing a high dry rich Island of about 400 yards wide and 800 yards long here we Seperated, I proceeded on to the river and Struck it at the foot of a verry Considerable rapid, here I beheld an emence body of water Compressd in a narrow Chanel of about 200 yds in width, fomeing over rocks maney of which presented their tops above the water, when at this place Capt. Lewis joined me haveing delayed on the way to examine a root of which the nativs had been digging great quantities in the bottoms of this River. at about two miles above this River appears to be confined between two high hils below which it divided by numbers of large rocks, and Small Islands covered with a low groth of timber, and has a rapid as far as the narrows three Small Islands in the mouth of this River, this River haveing no Indian name that we could find out, except "the River on which the Snake Indians live," we think it best to leave the nameing of it untill our return.
October 22, Tuesday, 1805 It was a beautiful and calm morning when we set out at 9 o'clock. We went past a rough rapid at the head of an island close to the starboard side. Above this rapid, on the starboard side, there were six native lodges where they were drying fish. After about 9 miles, we encountered another difficult rapid at the head of a large island made of high, uneven rocks jutting out over the water. There was a small island in a starboard bend across from the upper point, where I counted 20 bundles of dried and pounded fish. On the main starboard shore opposite this island, there were five lodges of Indians. Several Indians in canoes were fishing with gigs, etc. In the center of this rock island, which is about 4 miles long, we discovered the entrance to a large river on the larboard side that seemed to flow from the southeast. We landed some distance above the river's mouth, and Captain Lewis and I set out to explore the river upstream, as our route was blocked by a deep, narrow channel that runs out of this river into the Columbia just below where we landed, leaving a high, dry, rich island about 400 yards wide and 800 yards long. Here we separated; I continued to the river and reached it at the foot of a significant rapid. There, I saw an enormous body of water compressed into a narrow channel about 200 yards wide, foaming over rocks, many of which were showing above the water. At this point, Captain Lewis joined me, having stopped along the way to examine a root that the natives had been digging up in large quantities from the river's bottom. About two miles upstream, the river seemed to be confined between two high hills, below which it was divided by many large rocks and small islands covered with low timber. There's a rapid all the way to the narrows, with three small islands at the mouth of this river. This river had no Indian name that we could find, except "the river where the Snake Indians live." We thought it best to wait until our return to name it.
we proceeded on pass the mouth of this river at which place it appears to discharge 1/4 as much water as runs down the Columbia. at two miles below this River passed Eight Lodges on the Lower point of the Rock Island aforesaid at those Lodges we saw large logs of wood which must have been rafted down the To war-ne hi ooks River, below this Island on the main Stard Shore is 16 Lodges of nativs; here we landed a fiew minits to Smoke, the lower point of one Island opposit which heads in the mouth of Towarnehiooks River which I did not observe untill after passing these lodges about 1/2 a mile lower passed 6 more Lodges on the Same Side and 6 miles below the upper mouth of Towarnehiooks River the comencement of the pitch of the Great falls, opposit on the Stard. Side is 17 Lodges of the nativs we landed and walked down accompanied by an old man to view the falls, and the best rout for to make a portage which we Soon discovered was much nearest on the Stard. Side, and the distance 1200 yards one third of the way on a rock, about 200 yards over a loose Sand collected in a hollar blown by the winds from the bottoms below which was disagreeable to pass, as it was Steep and loose. at the lower part of those rapids we arrived at 5 Large Lodges of nativs drying and prepareing fish for market, they gave us Philburts, and berries to eate, we returned droped down to the head of the rapids and took every article except the Canoes across the portag where I had formed a camp on ellegable Situation for the protection of our Stores from Thieft, which we were more fearfull of, than their arrows. we despatched two men to examine the river on the opposit Side, and reported that the Canoes could be taken down a narrow Chanel on the opposit Side after a Short portage at the head of the falls, at which place the Indians take over their Canoes. Indians assisted us over the portage with our heavy articles on their horses, the waters is divided into Several narrow chanels which pass through a hard black rock forming Islands of rocks at this Stage of the water, on those Islands of rocks as well as at and about their Lodges I observe great numbers of Stacks of pounded Salmon neetly preserved in the following manner, i e after Suffiently Dried it is pounded between two Stones fine, and put into a speces of basket neetly made of grass and rushes of better than two feet long and one foot Diamiter, which basket is lined with the Skin of Salmon Stretched and dried for the purpose, in theis it is pressed down as hard as is possible, when full they Secure the open part with the fish Skins across which they fasten tho the loops of the basket that part very Securely, and then on a Dry Situation they Set those baskets the Corded part up, their common Custom is to Set 7 as close as they can Stand and 5 on the top of them, and secure them with mats which is raped around them and made fast with cords and Covered also with mats, those 12 baskets of from 90 to 100 w. each form a Stack. thus preserved those fish may be kept Sound and Sweet Several years, as those people inform me, Great quantities as they inform us are Sold to the whites people who visit the mouth of this river as well as to the nativs below.
We moved past the mouth of this river, where it seems to discharge about a quarter as much water as the Columbia. Two miles downstream, we passed eight lodges on the lower point of the aforementioned Rock Island. At those lodges, we saw large logs of wood that must have been rafted down the Towarnehiooks River. Below this island, along the main starboard shore, there are 16 lodges of natives. We stopped for a few minutes to smoke at the lower point of one island opposite where the Towarnehiooks River branches out, which I didn't notice until after passing these lodges about half a mile further. We then passed six more lodges on the same side, and six miles below the upper mouth of the Towarnehiooks River is the beginning of the rapids of the Great Falls. Opposite on the starboard side, there are 17 lodges of natives. We got out and walked down, accompanied by an old man, to view the falls and figure out the best route for a portage. We quickly discovered that the shortest route was on the starboard side, covering a distance of 1,200 yards—one third of the way on rock, about 200 yards across loose sand collected in a hollow blown by the winds from the lowlands below, which was unpleasant to cross as it was steep and unstable. At the end of those rapids, we came across five large lodges of natives drying and preparing fish for market. They offered us filberts and berries to eat. We went back, drifted down to the head of the rapids, and transported all our gear except the canoes across the portage, where I set up a camp in a good spot to protect our supplies from theft, which we were more worried about than their arrows. We sent two men to check the river on the opposite side, and they reported that the canoes could be taken down a narrow channel on that side after a short portage at the head of the falls, where the Indians transfer their canoes. The Indians helped us cross the portage with our heavy items on their horses. The water is divided into several narrow channels passing through hard black rock, forming rock islands at this stage of the water. On these rock islands, as well as around their lodges, I noticed a large number of stacks of pounded salmon neatly preserved in the following way: after drying sufficiently, it is pounded finely between two stones and stored in a type of basket carefully made from grass and rushes, measuring over two feet long and one foot in diameter. This basket is lined with salmon skin that has been stretched and dried for this purpose. The salmon is pressed down as hard as possible inside. Once full, the open part is secured with fish skins, which are fastened tightly to the loops of the basket. They then set these baskets, the corded part facing up, in a dry spot. Their usual custom is to stack seven as close together as possible and place five on top of them, securing everything with mats wrapped around them and tied with cords, and also covered with mats. These 12 baskets, weighing between 90 to 100 pounds each, form a stack. In this way, the fish can be kept sound and sweet for several years, as these people tell me. They also inform us that large quantities are sold to the white people who visit the mouth of this river, as well as to the natives downstream.
on one of those Island I saw Several tooms but did not visit them The principal Chiefs of the bands resideing about this Place is out hunting in the mountains to the S. W.—no Indians reside on the S. W.side of this river for fear (as we were informed) of the Snake Indians, who are at war with the tribes on this river—-they represent the Snake Indians as being verry noumerous, and resideing in a great number of villages on Towarnehiooks River which falls in 6 miles above on the Lard. Side and is reaches a great ways and is large a little abov its mouth at which part it is not intersepted with rapids, they inform that one considerable rapid & maney Small ones in that river, and that the Snake live on Salmon, and they go to war to their first villages in 12 days, the Couse they pointed is S. E. or to the S of S. E. we are visited by great numbers of Indians to Day to view us, we purchased a Dog for Supper, Some fish and with dificuelty precured as much wood as Cooked Supper, which we also purchased we made 19 miles to day
On one of those islands, I saw several graves but didn't visit them. The main chiefs of the tribes living around here are out hunting in the southwest mountains. No Indians live on the southwest side of this river due to fears of the Snake Indians, who are at war with the tribes along this river. They describe the Snake Indians as being very numerous, living in a lot of villages on Towarnehiook River, which flows in six miles upstream on the left side. The river stretches far and is quite large just above its mouth, where it has no rapids. They mentioned that there is one significant rapid and many small ones in that river, and that the Snake Indians survive on salmon. They travel to their main villages in twelve days, following a route that heads southeast or just south of southeast. Today, we were visited by a large number of Indians who came to see us. We bought a dog for supper, some fish, and with great difficulty managed to gather enough wood to cook supper, which we also purchased. We traveled 19 miles today.
[Clark, October 23, 1805]
October 23rd (Saturday) Wednesday 1805 Took the Canoes over the Portage on the Lard. Side with much dificuelty, description on another Paper one Canoe got loose & cought by the Indians which we were obliged to pay. our old Chiefs over herd the Indians from below Say they would try to kill us & informed us of it, we have all the arm examined and put in order, all th Inds leave us early, Great numbers of flees on the Lard Side—Shot a Sea Oter which I did not get, Great Numbers about those rapids we purchased 8 dogs, Small & fat for our party to eate, the Indians not verry fond of Selling their good fish, compells us to make use of dogs for food Exchanged our Small canoe for a large & a very new one built for riding the waves obsd Merdn. altd. 66° 27' 30" Latd. prodsd. 45° 42' 57 3/10" North
October 23rd (Saturday) Wednesday 1805 We took the canoes over the portage on the left side with a lot of difficulty, which I’ll describe on another paper. One canoe got loose and was caught by the Indians, which we had to pay for. Our old chiefs overheard the Indians from below say they would try to kill us and informed us about it. We had all the arms checked and organized. All the Indians left us early. There were lots of fleas on the left side. I shot a sea otter, but I didn’t get it. There are many around those rapids. We bought eight small, fat dogs for our party to eat because the Indians aren’t very fond of selling their good fish, forcing us to rely on dogs for food. We exchanged our small canoe for a larger, newer one built for riding the waves. Observed meridian altitude 66° 27' 30" latitude, produced 45° 42' 57 3/10" North.
[Clark, October 23, 1805]
October 23d Wednesday 1805 a fine morning, I with the greater part of the men Crossed in the Canoes to opposit Side above the falls and hauled them across the portage of 457 yards which is on the Lard. Side and certainly the best side to pass the canoes I then decended through a narrow chanel of about 150 yards wide forming a kind of half circle in it course of a mile to a pitch of 8 feet in which the chanel is divided by 2 large rocks at this place we were obliged to let the Canoes down by Strong ropes of Elk Skin which we had for the purpose, one Canoe in passing this place got loose by the Cords breaking, and was cought by the Indians below. I accomplished this necessary business and landed Safe with all the Canoes at our Camp below the falls by 3 oClock P.M. nearly covered with flees which were So thick amongst the Straw and fish Skins at the upper part of the portage at which place the nativs had been Camped not long Since; that every man of the party was obliged to Strip naked dureing the time of takeing over the canoes, that they might have an oppertunity of brushing the flees of their legs and bodies—Great numbers of Sea Otters in the river below the falls, I Shot one in the narrow chanel to day which I could not get. Great numbers of Indians visit us both from above and below—-one of the old Chiefs who had accompanied us from the head of the river, informed us that he herd the Indians Say that the nation below intended to kill us, we examined all the arms &c. complete the amunition to 100 rounds. The nativs leave us earlyer this evening than usial, which gives a Shadow of Confirmation to the information of our Old Chief, as we are at all times & places on our guard, are under no greater apprehention than is common.
October 23rd, Wednesday, 1805. It was a nice morning. Most of the men and I crossed over in the canoes to the opposite side above the falls and carried them across the 457-yard portage on the left side, which is definitely the best side for getting the canoes through. I then went down a narrow channel about 150 yards wide that forms a sort of half-circle, continuing for a mile to a drop of 8 feet where the channel splits between two large rocks. Here, we had to lower the canoes using strong elk skin ropes we had for that purpose. One canoe got loose when the cords broke and was caught by the Indians below. I managed to get everything done and safely landed with all the canoes at our camp below the falls by 3 PM, nearly covered in fleas. They were so thick among the straw and fish skins at the top of the portage, where the natives had recently camped, that every man in the party had to strip down while we carried the canoes over to brush the fleas off their legs and bodies. There are many sea otters in the river below the falls; I shot one in the narrow channel today, but I couldn't retrieve it. A lot of Indians visit us from both upstream and downstream. One of the old chiefs who has been with us from the head of the river told us he heard the Indians saying that the tribe below planned to kill us. We checked all our arms and ensured we had 100 rounds of ammunition. The natives left us earlier this evening than usual, which adds some weight to the information from our old chief. While we always stay alert, we are not under any more anxiety than usual.
we purchased 8 Small fat dogs for the party to eate the nativs not being fond of Selling their good fish, compells us to make use of Dog meat for food, the flesh of which the most of the party have become fond of from the habits of useing it for Some time past. The Altitude of this day 66° 27' 30" gave for Latd. 45° 42' 57 1/10 N.
we bought 8 small fat dogs for the party to eat since the locals aren’t keen on selling their good fish, which forces us to use dog meat for food. Most of the group has grown fond of it after using it for some time now. The altitude of this day was 66° 27' 30", giving a latitude of 45° 42' 57 1/10 N.
I observed on the beach near the Indian Lodges two Canoes butifull of different Shape & Size to what we had Seen above wide in the midde and tapering to each end, on the bow curious figures were Cut in the wood &c. Capt. Lewis went up to the Lodges to See those Canoes and exchanged our Smallest Canoe for one of them by giveing a Hatchet & few trinkets to the owner who informed that he purchased it of a white man below for a horse, these Canoes are neeter made than any I have ever Seen and Calculated to ride the waves, and carry emence burthens, they are dug thin and are suported by cross pieces of about 1 inch diamuter tied with Strong bark thro holes in the Sides. our two old Chiefs appeared verry uneasy this evening.
I saw two canoes on the beach near the Indian Lodges, both beautiful and different in shape and size from the ones we had seen earlier. They were wide in the middle and tapered at each end, with some interesting figures carved into the wood on the bow. Captain Lewis went up to the Lodges to check out those canoes and traded our smallest canoe for one of them by giving a hatchet and a few trinkets to the owner, who said he bought it from a white man downriver for a horse. These canoes are better made than any I have ever seen and are designed to handle waves and carry huge loads. They're dug out thin and supported by crosspieces about an inch in diameter tied with strong bark through holes in the sides. Our two old chiefs seemed very uneasy this evening.
[Clark, October 24, 1805]
October 24th Thursday 1805 a fine morning the Indians approached us with caution. our 2 old Chiefs deturmin to return home, Saying they were at war with Indians below and they would kill them we pursuaded them to Stay 2 nights longer with us, with a view to make a peace with those Indians below as well as to have them with us dureing our Delay with this tribe. Capt Lewis went to view the falls I Set out with the party at 9 oClock a m at 21/2 miles passed a rock which makes from the Stard Side 4 Lodges above 1 below and Confined the river in a narrow channel of about 45 yards this continued for about 1/4 of a mile & widened to about 200 yards, in those narrows the water was agitated in a most Shocking manner boils Swell & whorl pools, we passed with great risque It being impossible to make a portage of the Canoes, about 2 miles lower passed a verry Bad place between 2 rocks one large & in the middle of the river here our Canoes took in Some water, I put all the men who Could not Swim on Shore; & Sent a fiew articles Such as guns & papers, and landed at a village of 20 houses on the Stard Side in a Deep bason where the river ap-prd. to be blocked up with emence rocks I walked down and examined the pass found it narrow, and one verry bad place a little in the narrows I pursued this Chanel which is from 50 to 100 yards wide and Swels and boils with a most Tremendeous manner; prosued this channel 5 ms & returned found Capt Lewis & a Chief from below with maney of his men on a visit to us, one of our Party Pete Crusat played on the violin which pleased the Savage, the men danced, Great numbers of Sea Orter Pole Cats about those fishories. the houses of those Indians are 20 feet Square and Sunk 8 feet under ground & Covered with bark with a Small door round at top rose about 18 Inches above ground, to keep out the Snow I saw 107 parcels of fish Stacked, and great quantites in the houses
October 24th, Thursday, 1805 - it was a beautiful morning. The Indians approached us cautiously. Our two old chiefs decided to return home, saying they were at war with the Indians downriver and would kill them. We convinced them to stay for two more nights with us, hoping to make peace with those Indians as well as to have them with us during our delay with this tribe. Captain Lewis went to explore the falls. I set out with the party at 9:00 AM. After 2.5 miles, we passed a rock formation that had four lodges above and one below, which restricted the river to a narrow channel about 45 yards wide. This narrow stretch continued for about a quarter of a mile before widening to around 200 yards. In those narrows, the water was disturbed in a shocking way, with boils, swells, and whirlpools. We passed through with great risk, as it was impossible to portage the canoes. About 2 miles downstream, we encountered a very dangerous spot between two rocks, one large and in the middle of the river, where some water came into our canoes. I had all the men who couldn’t swim go ashore and sent a few items like guns and papers there. We landed at a village of 20 houses on the starboard side in a deep basin where the river appeared to be blocked by enormous rocks. I walked down to examine the pass and found it narrow, with one particularly bad spot in the narrows. I followed this channel, which was between 50 to 100 yards wide and swelled and boiled in a tremendous manner, for 5 miles before returning. I found Captain Lewis and a chief from below, along with many of his men, visiting us. One of our party, Pete Crusat, played the violin, which pleased the natives. The men danced. There were large numbers of sea otter and polecats around those fishing areas. The houses of those Indians were 20 feet square, sunk 8 feet underground, and covered with bark, with a small door on top that rose about 18 inches above ground to keep out the snow. I saw 107 bundles of fish stacked and large quantities inside the houses.
[Clark, October 24, 1805]
October 24th Thursday 1805 The morning fare after a beautifull night, the nativs approached us this morning with great caution. our two old chiefs expressed a desire to return to their band from this place, Saying "that they Could be of no further Service to us, as their nation extended no further down the river than those falls, and as the nation below had expressed hostile intentions against us, would Certainly kill them; perticularly as They had been at war with each other;" we requested them to Stay with us two nights longer, and we would See the nation below and make a peace between them, they replied they "were anxious to return and See our horses" we insisted on their Staying with us two nights longer to which they agreed; our views were to detain those Chiefs with us untill we Should pass the next falls, which we were told was verry bad, and at no great distance below, that they might inform us of any designs of the nativs, and if possible to bring about a peace between them and the tribes below.
October 24th, Thursday, 1805 The morning was lovely after a beautiful night. The natives approached us this morning with a lot of caution. Our two elder chiefs expressed a desire to return to their group from here, saying that they could no longer be of help to us since their nation didn’t go further down the river than those falls. They mentioned that the nation below had shown hostile intentions towards us and would definitely kill them, especially since they had been at war with each other. We asked them to stay with us for two more nights, promising to visit the nation below and negotiate a peace with them. They responded that they were eager to return and see our horses. We insisted they stay with us for two more nights, and they eventually agreed. Our goal was to keep these chiefs with us until we could pass the next falls, which we were told were very difficult and not far below, so they could inform us of any plans from the natives and, if possible, help us establish peace with the tribes below.
The first pitch of this falls is 20 feet perpendicular, then passing thro a narrow Chanel for 1 mile to a rapid of about 18 feet fall below which the water has no perceptable fall but verry rapid See Sketch No. 1. It may be proper here to remark that from Some obstruction below, the cause of which we have not yet learned, the water in high fluds (which are in the Spring) rise below these falls nearly to a leavel with the water above the falls; the marks of which can be plainly trac'd around the falls. at that Stage of the water the Salmon must pass up which abounds in Such great numbers above—below those falls are Salmon trout and great numbers of the heads of a Species of trout Smaller than the Salmon. those fish they catch out of the Salmon Season, and are at this time in the act of burrying those which they had drid for winter food. the mode of buring those fish is in holes of various Sizes, lined with Straw on which they lay fish Skins in which they inclose the fish which is laid verry close, and then Covered with earth of about 12 or 15 inches thick. Capt Lewis and three men crossed the river and on the opposit Side to view the falls which he had not yet taken a full view of—At 9 oClock a.m. I Set out with the party and proceeded on down a rapid Stream of about 400 yards wide at 21/2 miles the river widened into a large bason to the Stard. Side on which there is five Lodges of Indians. here a tremendious black rock Presented itself high and Steep appearing to choke up the river nor could I See where the water passed further than the Current was drawn with great velocity to the Lard Side of this rock at which place I heard a great roreing. I landed at the Lodges and the natives went with me to the top of this rock which makes from the Stard. Side; from the top of which I could See the dificuelties we had to pass for Several miles below; at this place the water of this great river is compressed into a Chanel between two rocks not exceeding forty five yards wide and continues for a 1/4 of a mile when it again widens to 200 yards and continues this width for about 2 miles when it is again intersepted by rocks. This obstruction in the river accounts for the water in high floods riseing to Such a hite at the last falls. The whole of the Current of this great river must at all Stages pass thro this narrow chanel of 45 yards wide. as the portage of our canoes over this high rock would be impossible with our Strength, and the only danger in passing thro those narrows was the whorls and Swills arriseing from the Compression of the water, and which I thought (as also our principal watermen Peter Crusat) by good Stearing we could pass down Safe, accordingly I detur mined to pass through this place notwithstanding the horrid appearance of this agitated gut Swelling, boiling & whorling in every direction (which from the top of the rock did not appear as bad as when I was in it;) however we passed Safe to the astonishment of all the Inds. of the last Lodges who viewed us from the top of the rock. passed one Lodge below this rock and halted on the Stard. Side to view a verry bad place, the Current divided by 2 Islands of rocks the lower of them large and in the middle of the river, this place being verry bad I Sent by land all the men who could not Swim and Such articles as was most valuable to us Such as papers Guns & amunition, and proceeded down with the Canoes two at a time to a village of 20 wood housies in a Deep bend to the Stard. Side below which a rugid black rock about 20 feet biter than the Common high fluds of the river with Several dry Chapels which appeared to Choke the river up quite across; this I took to be the 2d falls or the place the nativs above call timm, The nativs of this village reived me verry kindly, one of whome envited me into his house, which I found to be large and comodious, and the first wooden houses in which Indians have lived Since we left those in the vicinty of the Illinois, they are scattered permiscuisly on a elivated Situation near a mound of about 30 feet above the Common leavel, which mound has Some remains of houses and has every appearance of being artificial—those houses are about the Same Shape Size and form 20 feet wide and 30 feet long with one Dore raised 18 Inches above ground, they are 291/2 inches high & 14 wide, forming in a half Circle above those houses were Sunk into the earth Six feet, the roofs of them was Supported by a ridge pole resting on three Strong pieces of Split timber thro one of which the dore was cut that and the walls the top of which was just above ground Suported a certain number of Spars which are Covered with the Bark of the white Ceadar, or Arber Vitea; and the whole attached and Secured by the fibers of the Cedar. the eaves at or near the earth, the gable ends and Side walls are Secured with Split boards which is Seported on iner Side with Strong pieces of timber under the eves &c. to keep those pieces errect & the earth from without pressing in the boards, Suported by Strong posts at the Corners to which those poles were attached to give aditional Strength, Small openings were left above the ground, for the purpose, as I conjectured, of deschargeing Their arrows at a besiegeing enimey; Light is admited Thro an opening at top which also Serves for the Smoke to pass through. one half of those houses is apropriated for the Storeing away Dried & pounded fish which is the principal food The other part next the dore is the part occupied by the nativs who have beds raised on either Side, with a fire place in the center of this Space each house appeared to be occupied by about three families; that part which is apropriated for fish was crouded with that article, and a fiew baskets of burries—I dispatched a Sufficent number of the good Swimers back for the 2 canoes above the last rapid and with 2 men walked down three miles to examine the river Over a bed of rocks, which the water at verry high fluds passes over, on those rocks I Saw Several large Scaffols on which the Indians dry fish; as this is out of Season the poles on which they dry those fish are tied up verry Securely in large bundles and put upon the Scaffolds, I counted 107 Stacks of dried pounded fish in different places on those rocks which must have contained io,ooo w. of neet fish, The evening being late I could not examine the river to my Satisfaction, the Chanel is narrow and compressed for about 2 miles, when it widens into a deep bason to the Stard. Side, & again contracts into a narrow chanel divided by a rock I returned through a rockey open countrey infested with pole-cats to the village where I met with Capt. Lewis the two old Chiefs who accompanied us & the party & canoes who had all arrived Safe; the Canoes haveing taken in Some water at the last rapids. here we formed a Camp near the Village, The principal Chief from the nation below with Several of his men visited us, and afforded a favourable oppertunity of bringing about a Piece and good understanding between this chief and his people and the two Chiefs who accompanied us which we have the Satisfaction to Say we have accomplished, as we have every reason to believe and that those two bands or nations are and will be on the most friendly terms with each other. gave this Great Chief a Medal and Some other articles, of which he was much pleased, Peter Crusat played on the violin and the men danced which delighted the nativs, who Shew every civility towards us. we Smoked with those people untill late at night, when every one retired to rest.
The first drop of this waterfall is 20 feet straight down, then it goes through a narrow channel for 1 mile to a rapid with about an 18-foot drop, below which the water levels off but flows very quickly. See Sketch No. 1. It’s important to note that due to some obstruction downstream, which we still don’t know the reason for, the water during high floods (which occur in spring) rises just about level with the water above the falls; you can clearly see the marks around the falls. At that water level, salmon must swim upstream, and there are huge numbers of them above. Below those falls, there are salmon trout and a large number of smaller trout heads. People catch these fish out of season, and right now they are in the process of burying those they dried for food in winter. They bury these fish in holes of different sizes, lined with straw, where they place fish skins to enclose the fish tightly, and then cover them with about 12 to 15 inches of dirt. Captain Lewis and three men crossed the river to the opposite side to see the falls, which he hadn’t fully observed yet. At 9 AM, I set out with the group and moved down a fast-flowing stream about 400 yards wide. After 2.5 miles, the river widened into a large basin on the starboard side, where there were five Native American lodges. A massive, steep black rock appeared, seeming to block the river, and I couldn’t see where the water went past it, except that the current rushed strongly to the left of the rock, where I heard a loud roaring. I landed near the lodges, and the locals joined me to the top of this rock, which comes from the starboard side. From the top, I could see the challenges we faced for several miles below; at this point, the river flows through a channel between two rocks less than 45 yards wide, continuing for a quarter mile before widening back to 200 yards and staying that wide for about two miles, when it is again interrupted by rocks. This obstruction explains why the water rises so high during floods at the last falls. All stages of the river's current must pass through this narrow 45-yard-wide channel. Carrying our canoes over this high rock would be impossible for us, and the only risk in navigating these narrows was the whirlpools and swirls caused by the compressed water, which I thought (along with our chief waterman, Peter Crusat) we could safely navigate with good steering. So, I decided to pass through this area despite the terrifying view of the turbulent water swelling, boiling, and whirling in all directions (which looked less severe from the top of the rock than it felt when I was in it); however, we made it through safely to the astonishment of the Indigenous people at the nearest lodge, who watched us from the top of the rock. We passed one lodge below this rock and stopped on the starboard side to check out a very dangerous spot, where the current splits due to two rocky islands, the lower one being large and in the middle of the river. Since this place was very tricky, I sent all the men who couldn’t swim and our most vital supplies, like papers, guns, and ammunition, by land and proceeded down with the canoes in pairs to a village of 20 wooden houses in a deep bend on the starboard side, below which was a rugged black rock about 20 feet higher than the normal flood level of the river, with several dry channels that looked like they blocked the river completely across; I took this to be the second falls, or the place the locals above call “timm.” The locals of this village welcomed me warmly, with one inviting me into his house, which I found to be large and comfortable—the first wooden houses we’ve seen since we left those near Illinois. They are scattered casually on elevated ground near a mound about 30 feet above the common level, which has some remains of houses and looks artificial. These houses are about the same shape and size, 20 feet wide and 30 feet long, with one door raised 18 inches off the ground. They are 29.5 inches high and 14 feet wide, forming a half-circle above. These houses were dug six feet into the earth, and their roofs were supported by a ridge pole resting on three strong split timber supports, one of which has the door cut through it. The walls, which top just above ground level, supported several spars covered with the bark of the white cedar or arborvitae, all held together and secured by cedar fibers. The eaves are right at or near the ground, and the gable ends and side walls are secured with split boards, supported inside by strong timber pieces underneath the eaves, to keep everything upright and prevent earth from pressing in the boards, held up by solid corner posts to give extra strength. Small openings were left above ground, presumably for shooting arrows at a besieging enemy. Light enters through an opening at the top, which also serves for smoke to escape. Half of these houses are used for storing dried and pounded fish, which is their main food, while the other half near the door is occupied by the locals, who have beds on either side and a fireplace in the center of this space. Each house seemed to be home to about three families, the part used for fish storage being cluttered with that food and a few baskets of berries. I sent a sufficient number of good swimmers back for the two canoes upstream from the last rapid and walked down three miles with two men to check out the river over a bed of rocks that the water passes over during very high floods. On these rocks, I saw several large scaffolds where the Indians dry fish; since it’s out of season, the poles used for drying fish are securely tied in large bundles and placed on the scaffolds. I counted 107 stacks of dried pounded fish in different places on those rocks, which must have held 10,000 pounds of net fish. It was getting late, so I couldn’t explore the river to my satisfaction. The channel is narrow and compressed for about two miles, then widens into a deep basin on the starboard side before narrowing again into a tight channel divided by a rock. I returned through a rocky open country filled with polecats to the village, where I met with Captain Lewis, the two old chiefs who traveled with us, and the group and canoes, all of whom arrived safely, though the canoes had taken on some water at the last rapids. Here, we set up camp near the village. The main chief from the nation below, along with several of his men, visited us and created a great opportunity to establish peace and a good understanding between this chief and his people and the two chiefs who traveled with us, which I’m happy to say we accomplished, as we have every reason to believe that these two bands or nations are and will remain on friendly terms. I gave this great chief a medal and some other items, which he appreciated. Peter Crusat played the violin, and the men danced, which delighted the locals, who showed us much courtesy. We smoked with these people until late at night, when everyone retired to rest.
[Clark, October 25, 1805]
October 25th Friday 1805 A Cold morning, we deturmined to attempt the Chanel after brackfast I took down all the party below the bad places with a load & one Canoe passed well, a 2d passed well I had men on the Shore with ropes to throw in in Case any acidence happened at the Whirl &c—the Inds on the rocks veiwing us the 3rd Canoe nearly filled with water we got her Safe to Shore. The last Canoe Came over well which to me was truly gratifying Set out and had not passed 2 mils before 3 Canoes run against a rock in the river with great force no damg. met with a 2d Chief of the nation from hunting, we Smoked with him and his party and gave a medal of The Small Size & Set out passed great numbers of rocks, good water and Came to at a high point of rocks below the mouth of a Creek which falls in on the Lard Side and head up towards the high Snow mountain to the S W. this Creek is 20 yards wide and has Some beaver Signs at its mouth river about 1/2 a mile wide and Crouded with Sea otters, & drum was Seen this evening we took possession of a high Point of rocks to defend our Selves in Case the threts of those Indians below Should be put in execution against us. Sent out Some hunters to look if any Signs of game, one man killed a Small deer & Several others Seen I killed a goose, and Suped hartily on venison & goose. Camped on the rock guard under the hill.
October 25th, Friday, 1805 A cold morning. We decided to try the channel after breakfast. I took the whole party down past the difficult spots with a load, and one canoe passed through well. A second one also made it through successfully. I had men on the shore with ropes ready to throw in case of any accidents at the whirlpool, etc. The Indians on the rocks were watching us. The third canoe almost filled with water, but we got it safely to shore. The last canoe came over successfully, which was very satisfying for me. We set out and hadn’t gone two miles before three canoes hit a rock in the river with great force, but no damage was done. We encountered a second chief of the nation who was out hunting. We shared a smoke with him and his party and gave him a small-sized medal before we set out again. We passed many rocks and good water, and we stopped at a high point of rocks below the mouth of a creek that flows in on the left side and heads toward the high snowy mountain to the southwest. This creek is about 20 yards wide and has some beaver signs at its mouth. The river is about half a mile wide and crowded with sea otters, and we saw a drum this evening. We took possession of a high point of rocks to defend ourselves in case the threats from the Indians below were acted upon. We sent out some hunters to look for any signs of game; one man killed a small deer and several others were seen. I killed a goose, and we had a hearty supper of venison and goose. We camped on the rocky guard under the hill.
[Clark, October 25, 1805]
October 25th Friday 1805 a cool morning Capt Lewis and my Self walked down to See the place the Indians pointed out as the worst place in passing through the gut, which we found difficuelt of passing without great danger, but as the portage was impractiable with our large Canoes, we Concluded to Make a portage of our most valuable articles and run the canoes thro accordingly on our return divided the party Some to take over the Canoes, and others to take our Stores across a portage of a mile to a place on the Chanel below this bad whorl & Suck, with Some others I had fixed on the Chanel with roapes to throw out to any who Should unfortunately meet with difficuelty in passing through; great number of Indians viewing us from the high rocks under which we had to pass, the 3 firt Canoes passed thro very well, the 4th nearly filled with water, the last passed through by takeing in a little water, thus Safely below what I conceved to be the worst part of this Chanel, felt my Self extreamly gratified and pleased. we loaded the Canoes & Set out, and had not proceeded, more than two mile before the unfortunate Canoe which filled crossing the bad place above, run against a rock and was in great danger of being lost, This Chanel is through a hard rough black rock, from 50-100 yards wide. Swelling and boiling in a most tremendious maner Several places on which the Indians inform me they take the Salmon as fast as they wish; we passed through a deep bason to the Stard Side of 1 mile below which the River narrows and divided by a rock The Curent we found quit jentle, here we met with our two old Chiefs who had been to a village below to Smoke a friendly pipe, and at this place they met the Cheif & party from the village above on his return from hunting all of whome were then crossing over their horses, we landed to Smoke a pipe with this Chief whome we found to be a bold pleasing looking man of about 50 years of age dressd. in a war jacket a cap Legins & mockersons. he gave us Some meat of which he had but little and informed us he in his rout met with a war party of Snake Indians from the great river of the S. E. which falls in a few miles above and had a fight. we gave this Chief a Medal, &c. a parting Smoke with our two faithful friends the Chiefs who accompanied us from the head of the river, (who had purchased a horse each with 2 robes and intended to return on horse back) we proceeded on down the water fine, rocks in every derection for a fiew miles when the river widens and becoms a butifull jentle Stream of about half a mile wide, Great numbers of the Sea Orter about those narrows and both below and above. we Came too, under a high point of rocks on the Lard. Side below a creek of 20 yards wide and much water, as it was necessary to make Some Selestial observations we formed our Camp on the top of a high point of rocks, which forms a kind of fortification in the Point between the river & Creek, with a boat guard, this Situation we Concieve well Calculated for defence, and Conveniant to hunt under the foots of the mountain to the West & S. W. where timber of different kinds grows, and appears to be handsom Coverts for the Deer, in oke woods, Sent out hunters to examine for game G. D. Killed a Small Deer & other Saw much Sign, I killed a goose in the creek which was verry fat—one of the guard saw a Drum fish to day as he Conceved our Situation well Calculated to defend our Selves from any designs of the natives, Should They be enclined to attack us.
October 25th, Friday, 1805. It was a cool morning. Captain Lewis and I walked down to check out the spot the Indians indicated as the worst place to pass through the gut. We found it difficult to navigate without significant danger, and since the portage was impractical with our large canoes, we decided to carry our most valuable items and then run the canoes through. On our way back, we split the party: some took the canoes, while others carried our supplies across a mile-long portage to a place on the channel below this challenging whirlpool. I had set up ropes in the channel to help anyone who might encounter difficulties. A large group of Indians watched us from the high rocks we had to pass under. The first three canoes went through well; the fourth nearly filled with water, and the last one passed through by taking in a bit of water. After getting safely past what I thought was the worst part of the channel, I felt extremely pleased. We loaded the canoes and set out again, but we had only gone about two miles when the unfortunate canoe that had filled up earlier hit a rock and was in danger of being lost. This channel runs through a hard, rough black rock, about 50 to 100 yards wide, swelling and boiling in a tremendous way at several points. The Indians told me they catch salmon here as fast as they like. We passed through a deep basin to the starboard side, about a mile below where the river narrows and splits around a rock. The current here was quite gentle. We met our two old chiefs who had been to a village below to smoke a friendly pipe, and at this location, they encountered the chief and his party from the village above, returning from a hunt, all of whom were crossing over on horseback. We landed to smoke a pipe with this chief, who was a bold-looking man around 50 years old, dressed in a war jacket, cap, leggings, and moccasins. He offered us some meat, which was scarce, and informed us that he had encountered a war party of Snake Indians from the great river to the southeast, which flows in a few miles above us, and had a fight with them. We gave this chief a medal and shared a final smoke with our two loyal friends, the chiefs who accompanied us from the head of the river—they had each bought a horse with two robes and planned to return on horseback. We continued downstream, with fine waters and rocks in every direction for a few miles, until the river widened into a beautiful, gentle stream about half a mile wide. There were great numbers of sea otters around those narrows, both above and below. We made camp under a high point of rocks on the left side, near a creek about 20 yards wide with plenty of water. Since we needed to make some celestial observations, we set up our camp on top of a high rock point, which served as a natural fortification between the river and the creek, with a boat guard. We believed this location was well-situated for defense and convenient for hunting in the areas to the west and southwest, where various types of timber grow and provide nice cover for deer. I sent out hunters to look for game; G. D. killed a small deer and saw plenty of signs. I also killed a fat goose in the creek. One of the guards saw a drum fish today, as we considered our situation well-protected against any potential designs from the natives if they chose to attack us.
This little Creek heads in the range of mountains which run S S W & N W for a long distance on which is Scattering pine white Oake &c. The Pinical of the round toped mountain which we Saw a Short distance below the forks of this river is S. 43° W. of us and abt 37 miles, it is at this time toped with Snow we called this the falls mountain or Timm mountain. The face of the Countrey, on both Side of the river above and about the falls, is Steep ruged and rockey open and contain but a Small preportion of erbage, no timber a fiew bushes excepted, The nativs at the upper falls raft their timber down Towarnehooks River & those at the narrows take theirs up the river to the lower part of the narrows from this Creek, and Carry it over land 3 miles to their houses &c. at the mouth of this creek Saw Some beaver Sign, and a Small wolf in a Snare Set in the willows The Snars of which I saw Several made for to catch wolves, are made as follows vz: a long pole which will Spring is made fast with bark to a willow, on the top of this pole a String
This little creek starts in the mountain range that runs south-southwest and northwest for a long distance, where you can find scattered pine trees and white oaks. The peak of the round-topped mountain we saw a short distance below the forks of this river is located at S. 43° W. of us and about 37 miles away. At this time, it’s capped with snow, and we named it Falls Mountain or Timm Mountain. The landscape on both sides of the river above and around the falls is steep, rugged, and rocky, with only a small amount of grass and no timber except for a few bushes. The locals at the upper falls raft their timber down Towarnehook River, and those at the narrows take theirs up the river to the lower part of the narrows. From this creek, they carry it overland for 3 miles to their houses at the mouth of the creek. We saw some beaver signs and a small wolf caught in a snare set in the willows. The snares I saw, made to catch wolves, are constructed as follows: a long spring-loaded pole secured with bark to a willow, with a string at the top.
[Clark, October 26, 1805]
October 26th 1805 Saturday a fine morning Sent out Six men to hunt deer & Collect rozin to Pitch our Canoes, had all our articles put out to dry—Canoes drawed out and repaired, the injories recved in drawing them over the rocks, every article wet in the Canoe which nearly Sunk yesterday-
October 26th, 1805, Saturday, a nice morning. Sent out six men to hunt deer and collect resin to pitch our canoes. Had all our gear set out to dry. Canoes were pulled out and repaired. They received damage while being dragged over the rocks, and everything in the canoe was wet, which almost caused it to sink yesterday.
In the evening 2 Chief and 15 men came over in a Single Canoe, those Chf's proved to be the 2 great Chiefs of the tribes above, one gave me a dressed Elk Skin, and gave us Som deer meet, and 2 Cakes of white bread made of white roots, we gave to each Chief a Meadel of the Small Size a red Silk handkerchief & a knife to the 1st a arm ban & a pin of Paint & a Comb to his Son a Piece of riben tied to a tin gorget and 2 hams of Venison They deturmined to Stay with us all night, we had a fire made for them & one man played on the violin which pleased them much my Servent danced—our hunters killed five Deer, 4 verry large gray Squirrels, a goose & Pheasent, one man giged a Salmon trout which we had fried in a little Bears oil which a Chief gave us yesterday and I think the finest fish I ever tasted, Saw great numbers of white Crams flying in Different directions verry high. The river has rose nearly 8 Inches to day and has every appearance of a tide, from what Cause I can't Say—our hunters Saw Elk & bear signs to day in the white oake woods the Country to the Lard is broken Country thinly timbered with pine and white oake, a mountain which I must call Timm or falls Mountain rises verry high and bears to S W the Course it has bore Sinc we first Saw it. our men danced to night. dried all our wet articles and repaired our Canoes
In the evening, two chiefs and fifteen men came over in a single canoe. These chiefs turned out to be the two great leaders of the tribes upstream. One of them gave me a dressed elk skin, some deer meat, and two cakes of white bread made from white roots. We gave each chief a small medal, a red silk handkerchief, and a knife. To the first chief, we also gave an armband, a paint pin, and a comb; to his son, we gave a piece of ribbon tied to a tin gorget and two hams of venison. They decided to stay with us for the night. We made a fire for them, and one of our men played the violin, which they enjoyed. My servant danced. Our hunters brought back five deer, four very large gray squirrels, a goose, and a pheasant. One man speared a salmon trout, which we fried in a little bear oil given to us by a chief yesterday, and I think it was the finest fish I ever tasted. I saw a great number of white cranes flying in different directions very high. The river has risen nearly eight inches today and looks like it has a tide, though I can’t say why. Our hunters spotted elk and bear signs today in the white oak woods. The landscape to the left is hilly and sparsely wooded with pine and white oak. There's a mountain that I’ll call Timm or Falls Mountain, which rises very high and has been trending southwest since we first saw it. Our men danced tonight, dried all our wet items, and repaired our canoes.
The flees my Self and the men got on them in passing thro the plains the Indians had lately lived in Lodges on the Lard. Side at the falls, are very troublesom and with every exertion the men Can't get rid of them, perticilarly as they have no clothes to change those which they wore Those Indians are at Ware with the Snake Indians on the river which falls in a few miles above this and have lately had a battle with them, their loss I cannot lern.
The fleas that infested us and the men while crossing the plains where the Indians recently lived in lodges on the riverbank by the falls are very troublesome. Despite our best efforts, the men can't seem to get rid of them, especially since they have no spare clothes to change into. Those Indians are at war with the Snake Indians on the river that flows just a few miles above here and recently had a battle with them, but I can’t find out about their losses.
[Clark, October 26, 1805]
October 26th Saturday 1805 A fine morning Sent Six men out to hunt Deer, and Collect rozin to pitch the Canoes which has become verry leakey, by frequently hauling them over rocks &c as well Striking rocks frequently in passing down. all our articles we have exposed to the Sun to Dry; and the Canoes drawn out and turned up—maney of our Stores entirely Spoiled by being repeetedly wet; A number of Indians came to the Oposit Side of the river in the fore part of the day and Shew that they were anxious to Cross to us, we did not think proper to cross them in our Canoes and did not Send for them. in the evening two Chiefs and 15 men came over in a Small Canoe, those two Chiefs proved to be the two Principal Chiefs of the tribes above at the falls, and above, who was out hunting at the time we passed their bands; one of those Chiefs made Capt Lewis and my Self each a Small present of Deer meat, and Small Cakes of white bread made of roots. we gave to each Chief a Meadel of the Small Size a red Silk handkerchief, arm band, Knife & a piece of Paint, and acknowledged them as chiefs; as we thought it necessary at this time to treat those people verry friendly & ingratiate our Selves with them, to insure us a kind & friendly reception on our return, we gave Small presents to Several, and half a Deer to them to eate. we had also a fire made for those people to Sit around in the middle of our Camp, and Peter Crusat Played on the violin, which pleased those nativs exceedingly. the two Chiefs and Several men deturmined to delay all night (yorked Danced for the Inds) with us all the others returned, leaving the horses for those who Staied on the opposit Side. our hunters returned in the evening Killed five Deer, four verry large grey Squirels and a grouse. one of the guard at the river guiged a Salmon Trout, which we had fried in a little Bears Oil which the Chief we passed below the narrows gave us; this I thought one of the most delicious fish I have ever tasted Great numbers of white Crain flying in different Directions verry high—The river rose 8 Inches today from what cause I cannot Say certainly, as the tides cannot effect the river here as there is a falls below, I conjecture that the rise is owing to the winds which has Set up the river for 24 hours past. our hunters inform that the countrey back is broken, Stoney and thinly timbered with pine and White Oake. They Saw Elk & Bear Sign in the mountains. Dried all our wet articles and repared our Canoes to day, and the Party amused themselves at night danceing. The Flees which the party got on them at the upper & great falls, are very troublesom and dificuelt to get rid of, perticularly as the men have not a Change of Clothes to put on, they Strip off their Clothes and kill the flees, dureing which time they remain neckid.
October 26th, Saturday, 1805 It was a nice morning. I sent six men out to hunt deer and collect rosin to patch the canoes, which had become very leaky from frequently hauling them over rocks and hitting rocks while going downstream. We laid out all our items in the sun to dry and pulled the canoes out and turned them over. Many of our supplies were completely spoiled from being repeatedly wet. A number of Indians came to the opposite side of the river in the early part of the day, showing that they were eager to cross to our side. We didn't think it was wise to take them across in our canoes, nor did we send for them. In the evening, two chiefs and 15 men came over in a small canoe. These two chiefs turned out to be the main chiefs of the tribes upstream, who were out hunting when we passed their groups. One of the chiefs gave Captain Lewis and me each a small gift of deer meat and small cakes of white bread made from roots. We gave each chief a small medal, a red silk handkerchief, an arm band, a knife, and a piece of paint, acknowledging them as chiefs. We thought it was important at this time to treat these people very kindly and win their favor to ensure a kind and friendly reception upon our return. We also gave small gifts to several others and half a deer for them to eat. We had a fire set up for those people to sit around in the center of our camp, and Peter Crusat played the violin, which the natives really enjoyed. The two chiefs and several men decided to stay the night (York danced for the Indians), while the others returned, leaving the horses for those who stayed on the opposite side. Our hunters came back in the evening with five deer, four very large gray squirrels, and a grouse. One of the guards at the river caught a salmon trout, which we fried in a little bear oil that the chief we passed below the narrows gave us. I thought it was one of the most delicious fish I have ever tasted. There were great numbers of white cranes flying in different directions very high up. The river rose 8 inches today, but I can't say for sure why, as the tides shouldn't affect the river here because there are falls downstream. I suspect the rise is due to the winds that have been blowing up the river for the past 24 hours. Our hunters reported that the land behind us is broken, rocky, and sparsely wooded with pine and white oak. They saw signs of elk and bear in the mountains. We dried all our wet items and repaired our canoes today while the party entertained themselves by dancing at night. The fleas that the party picked up at the upper and great falls are very bothersome and hard to get rid of, especially since the men don’t have a change of clothes. They strip off their clothes and kill the fleas, during which time they remain naked.
The nations in the vicinity of this place is at War with the Snake Indians who they Say are noumerous and live on the river we passed above the falls on the Same Side on which we have encamped, and the nearest town is about four days march they pointed nearly S. E. and informed that they had a battle with those Inds. laterly, their loss I could not assertain
The nearby nations are at war with the Snake Indians, who they say are numerous and live along the river we passed above the falls, on the same side where we’ve set up camp. The nearest town is about a four-day march to the southeast, and they mentioned having fought a battle with those Indians recently, but I couldn’t find out their losses.
[Clark, October 27, 1805]
October 27th Sunday 1805 a verry windy night and morning wind from the West and hard, Send out hunters and they killed 4 deer 1 pheasent and a Squirel the 2 Chiefs and party Continue with us, we treat them well give them to eate & Smoke, they were joined by Seven others, from below who Stayed about 3 hours and returned down the river in a pet, Soon after the Chiefs deturmined to go home we had them put across the river the wind verry high, we took a vocabelary of the Languages of the 2 nations, the one liveing at the Falls call themselves E-nee-shur The other resideing at the levels or narrows in a village on the Std. Side call themselves E-chee-lute not withstanding those people live only 6 miles apart, but fiew words of each others language—the language of those above having great Similarity with those tribes of flat heads we have passed—all have the Clucking tone anexed which is predomint. above, all flatten the heads of their female children near the falls, and maney above follow the Same Custom The language of the Che-luc-it-to-quar a fiew miles below is different from both in a Small degree. The wind increased in the evening and blew verry hard from the Same point W. day fair and Cold—The Creek at which we are Encamped is Called by the natives-Que-nett Some words with Shabono about his duty—The pinical of Falls mountain bears S 43° W. about 35 miles
October 27th, Sunday, 1805 - It was a very windy night and morning with strong winds from the west. We sent out hunters, and they killed 4 deer, 1 pheasant, and a squirrel. The two chiefs and their group are still with us; we treat them well, giving them food and tobacco. They were joined by seven others from downstream who stayed for about three hours before heading back down the river in a huff. Soon after, the chiefs decided to go home, so we had them taken across the river despite the very high winds. We collected vocabulary from the languages of the two nations. The one living at the Falls call themselves E-nee-shur, while the other, residing at the levels or narrows in a village on the south side, call themselves E-chee-lute. Despite living only 6 miles apart, they have few words in common. The language of those upstream is very similar to that of the Flathead tribes we've encountered. All have a characteristic clucking tone that is prominent above, and they all flatten the heads of their female children near the falls. Many people upstream follow the same custom. The language of the Che-luc-it-to-quar, a few miles downstream, is slightly different from both. The wind picked up in the evening, blowing very hard from the same direction. The day was clear and cold. The creek where we are camped is called Que-nett. I exchanged some words with Shabono about his duties. The peak of Falls Mountain is located S 43° W, about 35 miles away.
[Clark, October 27, 1805]
October 27th Sunday 1805 Wind hard from the west all the last night and this morning. Some words with Shabono our interpreter about his duty. Sent out Several hunters who brought in four Deer, one Grouse & a Squirel. The two Chiefs & party was joined by Seven others from below in two canoes, we gave them to eate & Smoke Several of those from below returned down the river in a bad humer, haveing got into this pet by being prevented doeing as they wished with our articles which was then exposed to dry—we took a Vocabelary of the Languages of those two chiefs which are verry different notwithstanding they are Situated within Six miles of each other, Those at the great falls Call themselves E-nee-shur and are understood on the river above. Those at the Great Narrows Call themselves Eche-lute and is understood below, maney words of those people are the Same, and Common to all the flat head Bands which we have passed on the river, all have the clucking tone anexed which is prodomonate above. all the Bands flatten the heads of the female Children, and maney of the male children also. Those two Chief leave us this evening and returned to their bands, the wind verry high & from the West, day proved fair and Cool.
October 27th, Sunday, 1805 The wind was strong from the west all last night and this morning. I had a few words with Shabono, our interpreter, about his duties. I sent out several hunters who brought back four deer, one grouse, and a squirrel. The two chiefs and their party were joined by seven others from downstream in two canoes. We provided them with food and smoke. Several of those from downstream returned down the river in a bad mood because they were upset about not being able to do what they wanted with our items that were out to dry. We took a vocabulary of the languages of those two chiefs, which are very different despite being situated only six miles apart. Those at the Great Falls call themselves E-nee-shur and are understood upstream. Those at the Great Narrows call themselves Eche-lute and are understood downstream. Many words are the same and common to all the Flathead bands we've encountered on the river. All have a clucking tone, which is predominant upstream. All the bands flatten the heads of female children, and many of the male children as well. The two chiefs are leaving us this evening to return to their bands. The wind is very high and coming from the west, but the day turned out fair and cool.
The nativs Call this Creek near which we are encamped-Que-nett.
[Clark, October 28, 1805]
October 28th Monday 1805 a windey morning loaded our Canoes and Set out at 9 oClock a m 3 Canoes Came down from the Village above & 2 from that below in one of those Canoes a Indian wore his hair cued, and had on a round hat. Wind from West
October 28th, Monday, 1805 was a windy morning. We loaded our canoes and set out at 9:00 AM. Three canoes came down from the village above, and two from the one below. In one of those canoes, an Indian had his hair tied back and was wearing a round hat. The wind was coming from the west.
Those Indians have a musket a Sword, and Several Brass Tea kitties which they appear to be verry fond of we purchased of those people five Small dogs, and Some Dried beries & white bread of roots, the wind rose and we were obliged to lie by about 1 mile below on the Lard. Side North 1 mile to a rock Island on the Stard. Side. we had not landed long eer an Indian Canoe Came from below with 3 Indians in it, those Indians make verry nice Canoes of Pine. Thin with aporns & Carve on the head imitation of animals & other heads; The Indians above Sacrafise the property of the Deceased to wit horses Canoes, bowls Basquets of which they make great use to hold water boil their meet &c. &c. great many Indians came down from the uppr Village & Sat with us, Smoked, rained all the evenig & blew hard from the West encamped on the Lard Side opsd. an Rock in a verry Bad place
Those Indians have a musket, a sword, and several brass teapots that they seem very fond of. We bought five small dogs and some dried berries and white bread made from roots from them. The wind picked up, and we had to stop about a mile down on the left side, one mile to a rock island on the right side. We hadn't been there long when an Indian canoe came from below with three Indians in it. These Indians make really nice canoes from pine—thin, with aprons, and they carve the heads to look like animals and other figures. The Indians above sacrifice the property of the deceased, like horses, canoes, and bowls—baskets they use a lot to hold water, boil their meat, and so on. Many Indians came down from the upper village and sat with us, smoked, and it rained all evening, blowing hard from the west. We camped on the left side opposite a rock in a very bad spot.
[Clark, October 28, 1805]
October 28th Monday 1805 A cool windey morning we loaded our Canoes and Set out at 9 oClock, a.m. as we were about to Set out 3 canoes from above and 2 from below came to view us in one of those Canoes I observed an Indian with round hat jacket & wore his hair cued we proceeded on river inclosed on each Side in high Clifts of about 90 feet of loose dark coloured rocks at four miles we landed at a village of 8 houses on the Stard. Side under Some rugid rocks, Those people call themselves Chil-luckit-tequaw, live in houses Similar to those described, Speake Somewhat different language with maney words the Same & understand those in their neighbourhood Cap Lewis took a vocabilary of this Language I entered one of the houses in which I Saw a British musket, a cutlass and Several brass Tea kittles of which they appeared verry fond Saw them boiling fish in baskets with Stones, I also Saw figures of animals & men Cut & painted on boards in one Side of the house which they appeared to prize, but for what purpose I will not venter to Say,-. here we purchased five Small Dogs, Some dried buries, & white bread made of roots, the wind rose and we were obliged to lie by all day at 1 mile below on the Lard. Side. we had not been long on Shore before a Canoe came up with a man woman & 2 children, who had a fiew roots to Sell, Soon after maney others joined them from above, The wind which is the cause of our delay, does not retard the motions of those people at all, as their canoes are calculated to ride the highest waves, they are built of white cedar or Pine verry light wide in the middle and tapers at each end, with aperns, and heads of animals carved on the bow, which is generally raised. Those people make great use of Canoes, both for transpotation and fishing, they also use of bowls & baskets made of Grass & Splits to hold water and boil their fish & meat. Maney of the nativs of the last Village Came down Set and Smoke with us, wind blew hard accompanied with rain all the evening, our Situation not a verry good one for an encampment, but Such as it is we are obliged to put up with, the harbor is a Safe one, we encamped on the Sand wet and disagreeable one Deer killed this evening, and another wounded near our Camp.
October 28th, Monday, 1805 It was a cool, windy morning as we loaded our canoes and set out at 9 o'clock a.m. Just as we were about to leave, three canoes from upstream and two from downstream came into view. In one of those canoes, I saw an Indian wearing a round hat and jacket, with his hair tied back. We continued down the river, which was flanked on each side by high cliffs about 90 feet tall made of loose, dark-colored rocks. After four miles, we landed at a village with eight houses on the starboard side beneath some rugged rocks. These people call themselves Chil-luckit-tequaw. They live in houses similar to those we've described, speak a slightly different language with many words in common, and can understand their neighbors. Captain Lewis took a vocabulary of this language. I entered one of the houses and saw a British musket, a cutlass, and several brass tea kettles, which they seemed very fond of. I watched them boiling fish in baskets using stones. I also saw carved and painted figures of animals and men on one side of the house, which they appeared to value, though I can't say for what purpose. Here we bought five small dogs, some dried berries, and white bread made from roots. The wind picked up, and we had to stay put for the day, one mile downstream on the larboard side. We hadn't been on shore long when a canoe arrived with a man, a woman, and two children who had a few roots for sale. Soon after, many others joined them from upstream. The wind causing our delay did not affect these people at all, as their canoes are designed to ride the highest waves. They are made of white cedar or pine, very light, wide in the middle, tapering at each end, featuring aprons and carved animal heads on the bow, which is generally elevated. These people rely heavily on canoes for transportation and fishing. They also use bowls and baskets made of grass and splits to hold water and cook their fish and meat. Many of the natives from the last village came down to sit and smoke with us. The wind blew hard, accompanied by rain all evening. Our situation was not great for camping, but we had to make do. The harbor was safe, though we camped on wet, uncomfortable sand. One deer was killed this evening, and another was wounded near our camp.
[Clark, October 29, 1805]
October 29th Tuesday 1805 a Cloudy morning wind Still from th West not hard, we Set out at day light proceeded on about 5 miles and Came too at a Lodge of a Chief which we made at the upper village at th falls about his house there is Six others This chief gave us to eate Sackacommis burries Hasel nuts fish Pounded, and a kind of Bread made of roots—we gave to the Women pices of ribon, which they appeared pleased with—those houses are large 25 feet Sqr and contain abt. 8 men, Say 30 inhabitents-
October 29th, Tuesday, 1805: It was a cloudy morning with a light wind coming from the west. We set out at dawn, traveled about 5 miles, and arrived at the lodge of a chief in the upper village by the falls. There are six other houses around his. This chief offered us food like saskatoon berries, hazelnuts, pounded fish, and a type of bread made from roots. We gave the women pieces of ribbon, which they seemed pleased with. Those houses are large, about 25 square feet, and each contains around 8 men, with about 30 inhabitants total.
Those people are friendly gave us to eate fish Beries, nuts bread of roots & Drid beries and we Call this the friendly Village We purchased 12 dogs of them & 4 Sacks of Pounded fish, and Some fiew Dried Berries and proceeded on at 4 miles further we landed to Smoke a pipe with the people of a village of 11 houses we found those people also friendly Their Village is Situated imediately below the mouth of a River of 60 yards water which falls in on the Stard. Side and heads in the mountains to the N. & N, E, the Indians inform us that this river is long and full of falls no Salmon pass up it. They also inform that 10 nations lives on this river by hunting and on buries &c. The Countrey begin to be thinly timbered with Pine & low white oake verry rocky and hilley—We purchased at this vilg 4 dogs—at the end of this Course is 3 rocks, in the river and a rock point from the Lard. the middle rock is large and has a number of graves on it we call it the Sepulchar Island. The last River we call Caterack River from the number of falls which the Indians inform is on it The Indians are afraid to hunt or be on th Lard Side of this Columbia river for fear of the Snake Ind. who reside on a fork of this river which falls in above the falls a good Situation for winter quarters if game can be had is just below Sepulchar rock on the Lard Side, high & pine and oake timber the rocks ruged above, good hunting Countrey back, as it appears from the river Indian village opsd. Of 2 Lodgs river 1/2 mile wide at rocks
Those people were friendly and gave us fish berries, nuts, root bread, and dried berries. We call this the friendly village. We purchased 12 dogs from them, 4 sacks of pounded fish, and a few dried berries, and then continued on for another 4 miles. We stopped to share a pipe with the people of a village with 11 houses, and found them friendly as well. Their village is located just below the mouth of a river that's 60 yards wide, which flows in from the starboard side and originates in the mountains to the north and northeast. The locals told us that this river is long and has many falls, and no salmon can navigate upstream. They also mentioned that 10 tribes live along this river, relying on hunting and berries for sustenance. The land is beginning to have thinner pine timber and low white oak, and it's very rocky and hilly. We bought 4 dogs in this village. At the end of this stretch, there are 3 rocks in the river and a rock point on the left side. The middle rock is large and has multiple graves on it, so we named it Sepulcher Island. The last river we called Caterack River due to the number of falls the Indians mentioned are present. The locals are cautious about hunting or going to the left side of the Columbia River because of the Snake Indians, who live on a fork of this river that flows in above the falls. A good spot for winter quarters, if game is available, is just below Sepulcher Rock on the left side, which has high pine and oak timber. The rocky area above it indicates good hunting country behind it, as seen from the Indian village across the river. The river there is half a mile wide at the rocks.
The robes of those Indians are, of wolf deer Elk, wild cats, Some fox, & Deer I saw one of the mountain Sheep, th wool thick and long Corse hair on the back, resembling bristles—those animals live among the rocks in those mountains below, orter is much valued by those people they Cew their hair on each Side with it and ware it about the necks with the tail in front
The robes of those Indians are made from wolf, deer, elk, wildcats, some foxes, and deer. I saw one made from mountain sheep; the wool is thick and long with coarse hair on the back, looking like bristles. Those animals live among the rocks in the mountains below. Otter is highly valued by these people; they braid their hair on each side with it and wear it around their necks with the tail in front.
Came too at 3 miles on this Course at 3 Houses of flatheads and Encamped on the Stard. Side, a Pond lies back of those people in which we Saw great numbers of the Small Swan. we Purchased of those people 3 Dogs they gave us High bush cramburies, bread of roots and roots, they were pleased with musick of th violin.
Came to at 3 miles on this route at 3 houses of flatheads and set up camp on the east side. There's a pond behind those people where we saw lots of small swans. We bought 3 dogs from them, and they gave us high bush cranberries, root bread, and roots. They enjoyed the music from the violin.
[Clark, October 29, 1805]
October 29th Tuesday 1805 A cloudy morning wind from the West but not hard, we Set out at day light, and proceeded on about five miles Came too on the Stard. Side at a village of 7 houses built in the Same form and materials of those above, here we found the Chief we had Seen at the long narrows named ____
October 29th, Tuesday, 1805 A cloudy morning with a light west wind. We set out at dawn and traveled about five miles. We stopped on the starboard side at a village of seven houses made from the same materials and in the same style as those we had seen before. Here we found the chief we had seen at the long narrows named ____
we entered his lodge and he gave us to eate Pounded fish, bread made of roots, Filberts nuts, & the berries of Sackecomme. we gave to each woman of the lodge a brace of Ribon of which they were much pleased. each of those houses may be calculated to contain 8 men and 30 Soles, they are hospitable and good humered Speak the Same language of the inhabitants of the last village, we call this the friendly village. I observed in the lodge of the Chief Sundery articles which must have been precured from the white people, Such a Scarlet & blue Cloth Sword Jacket & hat. I also observed two wide Split boards with images on them Cut and painted in emitation of a man; I pointed to this image and asked a man to what use he put them to, he Said Something the only word I understood was "good," and then Steped to the image and took out his Bow & quiver to Show me, and Some other of his war emplemints, from behind it.
We entered his lodge, and he gave us pounded fish, bread made from roots, filberts, and the berries of sackecomme. We gave each woman in the lodge a ribbon, which they appreciated greatly. Each of those houses can hold about 8 men and 30 soles. They are hospitable and good-natured, speaking the same language as the people from the last village, which we call the friendly village. I noticed various items in the Chief's lodge that must have come from white people, like a scarlet and blue cloth sword, jacket, and hat. I also saw two wide split boards with images cut and painted to resemble a man. I pointed at this image and asked a man what it was used for; he said something, and the only word I caught was "good." Then he stepped over to the image and took out his bow and quiver to show me, along with some other war emblems from behind it.
The Chief then directed his wife to hand him his medison bag which he opened and Showed us 14 fingers which he Said was the fingers of his enemies which he had taken in war, and pointed to S. E. from which direction I concluded they were Snake Indians; this is the first Instance I ever knew of the Indians takeing any other trofea of their exploits off the dead bodies of their Enimies except the Scalp.—The Chief painted those fingers with Several other articles which was in his bag red and Securely put them back, haveing first mad a Short harrang which I Suppose was bragging of what he had done in war. we purchased 12 Dogs and 4 Sacks of fish, & Some fiew ascid berries, after brackfast we proceeded on, the mountains are high on each Side, containing Scattering pine white oake & under groth, hill Sides Steep and rockey; at 4 miles lower we observed a Small river falling in with great rapidity on the Stard. Side below which is a village of 11 houses, here we landed to Smoke a pipe with the nativs and examine the mouth of the river, which I found to be 60 yards wide rapid and deep, The inhabitants of the village are friendly and Chearfull; those people inform us also those at the last village that this little river is long and full of falls, no Salmon pass up it, it runs from N. N. E. that ten nations live on this river and its waters, on buries, and what game they Can kill with their Bow & arrows
The Chief then asked his wife to give him his medicine bag, which he opened and showed us 14 fingers that he said were from his enemies that he had taken in war. He pointed to the southeast, and from that, I concluded they were Snake Indians. This was the first time I ever heard of Indians taking any trophies from their enemies' dead bodies besides scalps. The Chief painted those fingers and several other items in his bag red and securely put them back after making a short speech, which I assumed was bragging about his wartime achievements. We purchased 12 dogs, 4 sacks of fish, and a few acid berries. After breakfast, we continued on. The mountains rose high on each side, with scattered pine, white oak, and undergrowth; the hillsides were steep and rocky. Four miles down, we noticed a small river flowing rapidly on the starboard side, below which was a village of 11 houses. Here we landed to smoke a pipe with the locals and check out the river's mouth, which I found to be 60 yards wide, rapid, and deep. The village inhabitants were friendly and cheerful; they informed us, along with those from the last village, that this little river is long and has many falls, and no salmon can migrate up it. It flows from N.N.E., and ten nations live along this river and its waters, relying on it for food and what game they can hunt with their bows and arrows.
we purchased 4 dogs and Set out—(this village is the of the Same nation of the one we last passed) and proceeded on The Countrey on each side begin to be thicker timbered with Pine and low white Oake; verry rockey and broken. passed three large rocks in The river the middle rock is large long and has Several Squar vaults on it. we call this rockey Island the Sepulchar—The last river we passed we Shall Call the Cataract River from the number of falls which the Indians say is on it- passed 2 Lodges of Indians a Short distance below the Sepulchar Island on the Stard. Side river wide, at 4 mile passed 2 houses on the Stard. Side, Six miles lower passed 4 houses above the mouth of a Small river 40 yards wide on the Lard. Side a thick timbered bottom above & back of those houses; those are the first houses which we have Seen on the South Side of the Columbia River, (and the axess to those dificuelt) for fear of the approach of their common enemies the Snake Indians, passed 14 houses on the Std. Side Scattered on the bank—from the mouth of this little river which we shall Call Labeasche River, the falls mountain is South and the top is covered with Snow. one mile below pass the mouth of a large rapid Stream on the Stard. Side, opposit to a large Sand bar, in this creek the Indians above take their fish, here we Saw Several canoes, which induced us to call this Canoe Creek it is 28 yards wide, about 4 miles lower and below the Sand bar is a butifull cascade falling over a rock of about 100 feet, a Short distance lower passed 4 Indian houses on the Lard. Side in a timbered bottom, a fiew miles further we came too at 3 houses on Stard. Side, back of which is a pond in which I Saw Great numbers of Small Swan, Capt. Lewis and I went into the houses of those people who appeared Somewhat Surprised at first Their houses are built on the Same Construction of those above, Speak the Same language and Dress in the Same way, robes of the Skins of wolves Deer, Elk, wild cat, or Loucirvia & fox, also Saw a mountain Sheap Skin the wool of which is long, thick, & corse with long corse hare on the top of the neck and back Something resembling bristles of a goat, the skin was of white hare, those animals these people inform me by Signs live in the mountains among the rocks, their horns are Small and Streight, Orter Skins are highly prised among those people as well as those on the river above, They Cue their hare which is divided on each Sholder, and also ware Small Strips about their necks with the tale hanging down in front.—Those people gave us, High bush cram berries, bread made of roots, and roots; we purchased three dogs for the party to eate; we Smoked with the men, all muche pleased with the violin-. Here the mountains are high on each Side, those to the Lard. Side has Some Snow on them at this time, more timber than above and of greater variety.
We bought 4 dogs and set out—(this village is part of the same nation we just passed) and continued on. The area on each side is becoming denser with pine and low white oak; it's very rocky and uneven. We passed three large rocks in the river; the middle rock is long and has several square vaults on it. We call this rocky island the Sepulcher. The last river we passed, we’ll call the Cataract River because of the number of falls the Indians say are on it. We saw 2 Indian lodges a short distance below the Sepulcher Island on the starboard side. The river is wide. Four miles later, we passed 2 houses on the starboard side, and six miles down we saw 4 houses above the mouth of a small river 40 yards wide on the larboard side, surrounded by a thick wooded area above and behind those houses. These are the first houses we've seen on the south side of the Columbia River and access to them is difficult due to fear of their common enemies, the Snake Indians. We passed 14 houses on the starboard side scattered along the bank—upon the mouth of this little river, which we’ll call Labeasche River, the falls mountain lies to the south, its summit covered in snow. One mile below, we passed the mouth of a large, fast-moving stream on the starboard side, opposite a large sandbar. The Indians above fish here, and we saw several canoes, prompting us to name this Canoe Creek. The creek is 28 yards wide. About 4 miles further down, below the sandbar, there’s a beautiful cascade falling over a rock about 100 feet high. A short distance later, we passed 4 Indian houses on the larboard side in a wooded area. A few miles further, we stopped at 3 houses on the starboard side, behind which is a pond where I saw great numbers of small swans. Capt. Lewis and I went into the houses of these people, who seemed somewhat surprised at first. Their houses are built similarly to those we saw earlier, they speak the same language, and dress the same way, wearing robes made from the skins of wolves, deer, elk, wildcats, or cougars, and foxes. I also saw a mountain sheep skin; its wool is long, thick, and coarse, with long coarse hair on the neck and back, somewhat resembling goat bristles. The skin was from a white hare. These people communicated to me through signs that these animals live in the mountains among the rocks, and their horns are small and straight. Otter skins are highly valued by these people, as well as those upstream. They cut their hare skins, which are split at each shoulder, and also wear small strips around their necks with the tails hanging down in front. These people gave us highbush cranberries, bread made from roots, and roots themselves; we bought three dogs for the party to eat. We smoked with the men, and everyone was quite pleased with the violin. Here, the mountains are high on each side; those on the larboard side have some snow on them at this time, with more timber than above and a greater variety.
[Clark, October 30, 1805]
October 30th Wednesday 1805 A Cloudy morning. Some little rain all night, after eating a Slight brackfast of venison we Set out.
October 30th, Wednesday, 1805 A cloudy morning. It rained a bit all night. After having a light breakfast of venison, we set out.
The rocks project into the river in maney places and have the appearance of haveing fallen from the highe hills those projected rocks is common & Small Bays below & nitches in the rocks passed 4 Cascades or Small Streams falling from the mountains on Lard. This part of the river resembles a pond partly dreaned leaving many Stumps bare both in & out of the water, current about 1 mil pr. Hour
The rocks stick out into the river in many places and look like they’ve fallen from the high hills. These protruding rocks are common, along with small bays below and niches in the rocks, which feed four cascades or small streams falling from the mountains on land. This section of the river looks like a partly drained pond, leaving many stumps exposed both in and out of the water, with a current of about 1 mile per hour.
The bottom above the river is about 3/4 of a mile wide and rich, Some deer & bear Sign—rained moderately all day we are wet and cold. Saw Several Specis of wood which I never Saw before, Some resembling Beech & others Poplar.—Day dark and disagreeable
The area above the river is roughly 3/4 of a mile wide and abundant. We’ve spotted some deer and bear tracks—it's been raining moderately all day, so we’re wet and cold. I saw several kinds of wood I've never seen before, some resembling beech and others resembling poplar. The day is dark and unpleasant.
I with 2 men proceeded down the river 2 miles on an old Indian parth to view the rapids, which I found impassable for our canoes without a portage, the roade bad at 1 mile I saw a Town of Houses laterly abandoned on an elevated Situation opsd. a 2d Shute, returned at dark. Capt. Lewis and 5 men went to the Town found them kind they gave Beries & nuts, but he cd. get nothin from them in the way of Information, the greater part of those people out collecting roots below, rained all the evining Those people have one gun & maney articles which they have purchased of the white people their food is principally fish
I went with two men down the river for two miles on an old Indian path to check out the rapids, which I found were impassable for our canoes without carrying them around. The road was bad, and about a mile in, I saw a town of recently abandoned houses on higher ground across from a second chute. We returned at dark. Captain Lewis and five men went to the town and found the people friendly; they gave them berries and nuts, but he couldn't get any information from them since most of them were out collecting roots below. It rained all evening. Those people have one gun and many items they bought from white people, and their main food is fish.
[Clark, October 30, 1805]
October 30th Wednesday 1805 A cool morning, a moderate rain all the last night, after eating a partial brackfast of venison we Set out passed Several places where the rocks projected into the river & have the appearance of haveing Seperated from the mountains and fallen promiscuisly into the river, Small nitches are formed in the banks below those projecting rocks which is comon in this part of the river, Saw 4 Cascades caused by Small Streams falling from the mountains on the Lard. Side, a remarkable circumstance in this part of the river is, the Stumps of pine trees are in maney places are at Some distance in the river, and gives every appearance of the rivers being darned up below from Some cause which I am not at this time acquainted with, the Current of the river is also verry jentle not exceeding 11/2 mile pr. hour and about 3/4 of a mile in width. Some rain, we landed above the mouth of a Small river on the Stard. Side and Dined J. Shields Killed a Buck & Labiech 3 Ducks, here the river widens to about one mile large Sand bar in the middle, a Great rock both in and out of the water, large Stones, or rocks are also permiscuisly Scattered about in the river, this day we Saw Some fiew of the large Buzzard Capt. Lewis Shot at one, those Buzzards are much larger than any other of ther Spece or the largest Eagle white under part of their wings &c. The bottoms above the mouth of this little river is rich covered with grass & firn & is about 3/4 of a mile wide rich and rises gradually, below the river (which is 60 yards wide above its mouth) the Countery rises with Steep assent. we call this little river New Timbered river from a Speces of Ash which grows on its banks of a verry large and different from any we had before Seen, and a timber resembling the beech in bark but different in its leaf which is Smaller and the tree smaller. passed maney large rocks in the river and a large creek on the Stard. Side in the mouth of which is an Island, passed on the right of 3 Islands near the Stard. Side, and landed on an Island close under the Stard. Side at the head of the great Shute, and a little below a village of 8 large houses on a Deep bend on the Stard. Side, and opposit 2 Small Islands imediately in the head of the Shute, which Islands are covered with Pine, maney large rocks also, in the head of the Shute. Ponds back of the houses, and Countrey low for a Short distance. The day proved Cloudy dark and disagreeable with Some rain all day which kept us wet. The Countary a high mountain on each Side thickly Covered with timber, Such as Spruc, Pine, Cedar, Oake Cotton &c. &c. I took two men and walked down three miles to examine the Shute and river below proceeded along an old Indian path, passd. an old village at 1 mile on an ellevated Situation of this village contained verry large houses built in a different form from any I had Seen, and laterly abandoned, and the most of the boads put into a pond of water near the village, as I conceived to drown the flees, which was emencely noumerous about the houses-. I found by examonation that we must make a portage of the greater perpotion of our Stores 21/2 miles, and the Canoes we Could haul over the rocks, I returned at Dark Capt Lewis and 5 men had just returned from the village, Cap L. informed me that he found the nativs kind, they gave him berries, nuts & fish to eate; but he could get nothing from them in the way of information. The greater part of the inhabitants of this village being absent down the river Some distance Colecting roots Capt. L. Saw one gun and Several articles which must have been precured from the white people. a wet disagreeable evening, the only wood we could get to burn on this little Island on which we have encamped is the newly discovered Ash, which makes a tolerable fire. we made fifteen miles to daye.
October 30th, Wednesday, 1805 It was a cool morning with moderate rain throughout the night. After a light breakfast of venison, we set out and passed several spots where rocks jutted into the river, looking like they had broken off from the mountains and tumbled randomly into the water. Small niches formed in the banks below these protruding rocks, which is common in this part of the river. We saw four cascades created by small streams flowing from the mountains on the left side. An interesting feature in this area is that the stumps of pine trees are often found some distance out in the river, suggesting that the river may have been dammed up for some unknown reason. The current is also very gentle, not exceeding 1.5 miles per hour, and the river is about three-quarters of a mile wide. It rained a bit, and we stopped above the mouth of a small river on the right side for lunch. J. Shields killed a buck, and Labiech shot three ducks. Here, the river widens to about a mile, with a large sandbar in the middle and a big rock both in and out of the water. Large stones and rocks are randomly scattered throughout the river. Today, we caught sight of a few large buzzards; Captain Lewis shot at one. These buzzards are much bigger than any other species or the largest eagle, with white underparts on their wings, etc. The land above the mouth of this little river is rich, covered with grass and ferns, and about three-quarters of a mile wide, rising gradually. Below, the river, which is 60 yards wide above its mouth, has steep banks. We named this little river New Timbered River because of a species of ash that grows on its banks, which is very large and different from any we had seen before, as well as timber that resembles beech in bark but differs in leaf size and overall tree size. We passed many large rocks in the river and a large creek on the right side, where there is an island at the mouth. To the right, we passed by three islands near the right side and landed on an island close to the right side at the head of the great chute, just below a village with eight large houses on a deep bend on the right side, opposite two small islands right at the head of the chute. These islands are covered with pine, and there are many large rocks at the head of the chute. There are ponds behind the houses, and the land is low for a short distance. The day was cloudy, dark, and unpleasant, with rain all day that kept us wet. The area features high mountains on each side, thickly covered with timber such as spruce, pine, cedar, oak, and more. I took two men and walked three miles to explore the chute and river below, following an old Indian path. We passed an old village about a mile in on an elevated site, with very large houses built in a different style from any I had seen, which were recently abandoned. Most of the boards were put into a pond nearby, presumably to drown the fleas, which were enormously numerous around the houses. Upon examining the area, I found that we would need to portage most of our supplies for 2.5 miles, while the canoes could be hauled over the rocks. I returned at dark; Captain Lewis and five men had just come back from the village. He told me that the natives were kind and offered him berries, nuts, and fish to eat, though he couldn't gather much information from them. Most of the people from this village were absent, gathering roots some distance down the river. Captain Lewis spotted one gun and several goods that must have been obtained from white people. It was a wet and uncomfortable evening, and the only wood available for burning on this little island where we camped was the newly discovered ash, which made a fair fire. We traveled fifteen miles today.
[Clark, October 31, 1805]
October 31st Thursday 1805 a cloudey raney morning I proceed down the river to view it more at leasure, I took Jos. Fields & Peter Crusat and proceeded on down, Send Crusat back at 2 ms. to examine the rapid near the shore & I proceeded on down about 10 miles to a very high rock in a bottom on the Stard. opsd. 2 Islands covered with timber on which I saw Inds. at a distance; found the river rocky for 6 miles, after which the Current became uniform—at 1 mile I passed an old deserted village on a Pond on a high Situation of 8 Houses—at 31/2 miles one house the only remt. of an antient Village 1/2 a mile lower I saw 8 Vaults for the Dead which was nearly Square 8 feet Closely Covered with broad boads Curiously engraved, the bones in Some of those vaults wer 4 feet thick, in others the Dead was yet layed Side of each other nearly East & west, raped up & bound Securley in robes, great numbers of trinkets Brass Kittle, Sea Shells, Iron, Pan Hare &c. &c. was hung about the vaults and great many wooden gods, or Images of men Cut in wood, Set up round the vaults, Some of those So old and worn by time that they were nearly worn out of Shape, and Some of those vaults So old that they were roted entirely to the ground—notwithstanding they wood is of Pine & _____ or Seder as also the wooden gods
October 31st, Thursday, 1805: It was a cloudy, rainy morning. I headed down the river to take a closer look. I took Jos. Fields and Peter Crusat with me and continued downstream. I sent Crusat back 2 miles to check out a rapid near the shore while I went about 10 miles to a very tall rock in a bottom opposite two islands covered with trees, where I spotted some Indigenous people in the distance. The river was rocky for 6 miles, then the current became steady. At one mile, I passed an old, abandoned village on a pond featuring a high spot with 8 houses. At 3.5 miles, there was one house, the last remnant of an ancient village. Half a mile lower, I saw 8 burial vaults, nearly square and 8 feet in size, closely covered with broad boards intricately engraved. The bones in some of those vaults were 4 feet thick, while in others, the remains were still laid side by side, facing nearly east and west, wrapped up and securely bound in robes. A large number of trinkets—brass kettles, seashells, iron, and pan hare—were hung around the vaults, along with many wooden gods or figures of men carved in wood set up around the vaults. Some of these were so old and worn down by time that they were almost shapeless, and some of the vaults were so ancient that they had completely rotted away. Nonetheless, the wood was pine or cedar, as were the wooden gods.
I can not learn certainly if those people worship those woden emiges, they have them in conspicuous parts of their houses at 5 miles I passed 4 large houses on the Stard Side a little above the last rapid and opposit a large Island which is Situated near the Lard. Side—The enhabitents of those houses had left them closely Shut up, they appeared to Contn. a great deel of property and Provisions Such as those people use, I did not disturb any thing about those houses, but proceed on down below the rapid which I found to be the last, a large village has at Some period been on the Stard. Side below this rapid The bottom is high Stoney and about 2 miles wide covered with grass, here C is the head of a large Island in high water, at this time no water passes on the Stard. Side I walked thro this Island which I found to be verry rich, open & covered with Strawberry vines, and has greatly the appearance of having at Some period been Cultivated, The natives has dug roots in Some parts of this Isld. which is about 3 miles long & 1 Wide, a Small Island covered with timber opposit the lower point no water runs on the Stard. Side. of it. below and in the middle of the river is a large Island Covered with tall trees opposit the Strawberry Island on its Stard. Side a creek falls in which has no running water at present, it has the appearanc of throwing out emense torents—I saw 5 Indians in a canoe below—Jo. killed a Sand hill Crane & we returned by the same rout to camp at the grand Shute where I found Several Indians, I Smoked. Two canoes loaded with fish for the Trade below Came down & unloaded the after noon fare
I can't be sure if those people worship those wooden images; they have them in prominent places in their homes. I passed four large houses on the south side, just above the last rapid, and opposite a large island located near the north side. The residents of those houses had left them tightly shut; they seemed to contain a lot of property and supplies that those people use. I didn’t disturb anything in those houses but continued downstream past the last rapid, which I found to be the final one. A large village had once been on the south side below this rapid. The ground there is high, rocky, and about two miles wide, covered with grass. Here, C is the head of a large island during high water; at this time, no water passes on the south side. I walked through this island, which I found to be very rich, open, and covered with strawberry vines, showing signs of having been cultivated at some point. The natives have dug up roots in some parts of this island, which is about three miles long and one mile wide. A small island covered with trees is opposite the lower point; no water runs on its south side. Below and in the middle of the river is a large island covered with tall trees, opposite the strawberry island. A creek flows into it, which currently has no running water but appears to have once released huge torrents. I saw five Indians in a canoe below; Jo killed a sandhill crane, and we returned by the same route to camp at the Grand Chute, where I found several Indians. I smoked. Two canoes loaded with fish for trade downstream came down and unloaded in the afternoon.
Those Indians Cut off the hands of those they kill & proserve the fingers.
Those Indians cut off the hands of their victims and preserve the fingers.
[Clark, October 31, 1805]
October 31st Thursday 1805 A Cloudy rainey disagreeable morning I proceeded down the river to view with more attention we had to pass on the river below, the two men with me Jo. Fields & Peter Crusat proceeded down to examine the rapids the Great Shute which commenced at the Island on which we encamped Continud with great rapidity and force thro a narrow chanel much compressd. and interspersed with large rocks for 1/2 a mile, at a mile lower is a verry Considerable rapid at which place the waves are remarkably high, and proceeded on in a old Indian parth 21/2 miles by land thro a thick wood & hill Side, to the river where the Indians make a portage, from this place I dispatched Peter Crusat (our principal waterman) back to follow the river and examine the practibility of the Canoes passing, as the rapids appeared to continue down below as far as I could See, I with Jo. Fields proceeded on, at 1/2 a mile below the end of the portage passed a house where there had been an old town for ages past as this house was old Decayed and a plat of flees I did not enter it, about 1/2 a mile below this house in a verry thick part of the woods is 8 vaults which appeared Closely Covered and highly deckerated with orniments. Those vaults are all nearly the Same Sise and form 8 feet Square, 5 feet high, Sloped a little So as to convey off the rain made of Pine or Cedar boards Closely Connected & Scurely Covered with wide boards, with a Dore left in The East Side which is partially Stoped with wide boards curiously engraved. In Several of those vaults the dead bodies wre raped up verry Securely in Skins tied around with cords of grass & bark, laid on a mat, all east & west and Some of those vaults had as maney as 4 bodies laying on the Side of each other. the other Vaults Containing bones only, Some contained bones for the debth of 4 feet. on the tops and on poles attached to those vaults hung Brass kitties & frying pans pearced thro their bottoms, baskets, bowls of wood, Sea Shels, Skins, bits of Cloth, Hair, bags of Trinkets & Small peices of bone &c and independant of the curious ingraveing and Paintings on the boards which formed the vaults I observed Several wooden Images, cut in the figure of men and Set up on the Sides of the vaults all round. Some of those So old and worn by time, that they were nearly out of Shape, I also observed the remains of Vaults rotted entirely into the ground and covered with moss. This must bee the burrying place for maney ages for the inhabitants of those rapids, the vaults are of the most lasting timber Pine & Cedar—I cannot Say certainly that those nativs worship those wooden idols as I have every reason to believe they do not; as they are Set up in the most conspicious parts of their houses, and treated more like orniments than objects of aderation. at 2 miles lower & 5 below our Camp I passed a village of 4 large houses abandend by the nativs, with their Bores bared up, I looked into those houses and observed as much property as is usial in the houses of those people which induced me to conclude that they wre at no great distance, either hunting or Colecting roots, to add to their winter Subsistance. from a Short distance below the vaults the mountain which is but low on the Stard. Side leave the river, and a leavel Stoney open bottom Suckceeds on the Said Std. Side for a great Distance down, the mountains high and rugid on the Lard Side this open bottom is about 2 miles a Short distance below this village is a bad Stoney rapid and appears to be the last in view I observed at this lower rapid the remains of a large and antient Village which I could plainly trace by the Sinks in which they had formed their houses, as also those in which they had buried their fish—from this rapid to the lower end of the portage the river is Crouded with rocks of various Sizes between which the water passes with great velociety createing in maney places large Waves, an Island which is Situated near the Lard. Side occupies about half the distance the lower point of which is at this rapid. immediately below this rapid the high water passes through a narrow Chanel through the Stard. Bottom forming an Island of 3 miles Long & one wide, I walked through this Island which I found to be verry rich land, and had every appearance of haveing been at Some distant period Cultivated. at this time it is Covered with grass intersperced with Strawberry vines. I observed Several places on this Island where the nativs had dug for roots and from its lower point I observed 5 Indians in a Canoe below the upper point of an Island near the middle of the river Covered with tall timber, which indued me to believe that a village was at no great distanc below, I could not See any rapids below in the extent of my view which was for a long distance down the river, which from the last rapids widened and had everry appearance of being effected by the tide,—I deturmind to return to Camp 10 miles distant, a remarkable high detached rock Stands in a bottom on the Stard Side near the lower point of this Island on the Stard. Side about 800 feet high and 400 paces around, we call the Beaten rock. a Brook falls into the narrow Chanel which forms the Strawberry Island, which at this time has no running water, but has every appearance of dischargeing emence torrents &c. &c. Jo. Fields Shot a Sand hill Crane. I returned by the Same rout on an Indian parth passing up on the N W. Side of the river to our Camp at the Great Shute. found Several Indians from the village, I Smoked with them; Soon after my return two Canoes loaded with fish & Bear grass for the trade below, came down,from the village at the mouth of the Catterack River, they unloaded and turned their Canoes up Side down on the beech, & camped under a Shelveing rock below our Camp
October 31st Thursday 1805 It was a cloudy, rainy, and unpleasant morning. I set off down the river to take a closer look at the areas we needed to navigate. The two men with me, Jo. Fields and Peter Crusat, went ahead to explore the rapids of the Great Shute, which began at the island where we camped. The water rushed through a narrow channel that was tightly packed and filled with large rocks for half a mile. A mile downstream, there was a significant rapid where the waves were unusually high. We continued along an old Indian path, walking 2.5 miles through thick woods and up a hillside to the river where the Indians would portage. From there, I sent Peter Crusat (our primary waterman) back to follow the river and check if the canoes could pass through, as the rapids seemed to extend further down as far as I could see. Jo. Fields and I moved on, and about half a mile below the end of the portage, we passed an old decayed house where there had been a town long ago. I didn't enter because it looked derelict. About half a mile further in a very dense part of the woods, we found eight vaults that appeared to be well-covered and elaborately decorated. All the vaults were roughly the same size and shape, measuring eight feet square and five feet high, with a slight slope to allow rain to run off. They were made of closely fitted pine or cedar boards, securely covered with wide boards. There was a door on the east side that was partially blocked with wide boards that had intricate engravings. Inside several of the vaults, the dead bodies were wrapped tightly in skins and bound with cords made from grass and bark, laid on mats, all oriented east and west. Some vaults contained as many as four bodies piled next to each other, while others only contained bones, some buried to a depth of four feet. The tops and poles attached to the vaults held brass kettles and frying pans pierced through their bottoms, along with baskets, wooden bowls, sea shells, skins, bits of cloth, hair, bags of trinkets, small pieces of bone, etc. Besides the intriguing carvings and paintings on the boards forming the vaults, I noticed several wooden images shaped like men placed around the vaults. Some of these were so old and weathered they were nearly unrecognizable. I also saw the remains of vaults that had rotted completely into the ground and were covered with moss. This must be the burial place for many generations of the people who lived by these rapids. The vaults were made from the most durable timber, pine and cedar. I can't say for sure if these natives worshipped those wooden idols, but I have every reason to believe they do not, as they are positioned prominently in their homes and treated more like ornaments than objects of reverence. Two miles lower and five from our camp, we passed a village with four large abandoned houses, their doors boarded up. I peered into these houses and saw as much property as was typical for this area, which led me to think the inhabitants were nearby, either hunting or gathering roots for their winter food supply. A short distance below the vaults, the low mountains on the starboard side recede from the river, and a flat, stony area extends along the same side for quite a distance. The mountains on the larboard side are high and rugged, while this open area spans about two miles. A short distance below this village is a difficult, rocky rapid, which seems to be the last one in sight. At this lower rapid, I observed the remains of a large, ancient village, evident from the depressions where they had built their homes and the spots where they buried their fish. From this rapid to the lower end of the portage, the river is filled with rocks of various sizes, causing the water to rush by very rapidly and creating large waves in many places. An island near the larboard side takes up about half this distance, with its lower tip located at the rapid. Directly below this rapid, fast-moving water flows through a narrow channel, forming an island that is three miles long and one mile wide. I walked through this island and found it to be very fertile land, with signs of prior cultivation. Currently, it is covered in grass interspersed with strawberry vines. I noticed several spots on this island where the natives had dug for roots. From its lower point, I saw five Indians in a canoe near the upper tip of an island in the middle of the river, which was lined with tall timber. This made me believe a village was not far away. I couldn't see any rapids downstream for a long distance; the river widened and looked like it was affected by the tide. I decided to return to camp, which was ten miles away. A notable, tall detached rock stands in the valley on the starboard side near the lower end of this island, about 800 feet high and 400 paces around. We call it the Beaten Rock. A brook flows into the narrow channel that forms Strawberry Island, which currently has no running water but shows signs of having once discharged massive torrents, etc. Jo. Fields shot a Sandhill Crane. I returned by the same route along an Indian path on the northwest side of the river to our camp at the Great Shute. I encountered several Indians from the village and smoked with them. Soon after my return, two canoes loaded with fish and bear grass for trade downriver came from the village at the mouth of the Catterack River. They unloaded and turned their canoes upside down on the beach, camping under a ledge of rock below our camp.
one of the men Shot a goose above this Great Shute, which was floating into the Shute when an Indian observed it, plunged into the water & Swam to the Goose and brought in on Shore, at the head of the Suck, as this Indian richly earned the goose I Suffered him to keep it which he about half picked and Spited it up with the guts in it to roste.
One of the men shot a goose above this Great Shute, which was floating into the Shute when an Indian saw it, jumped into the water, and swam to the goose, bringing it back to shore at the head of the Suck. Since this Indian earned the goose legitimately, I allowed him to keep it, and he picked at it for a while before stuffing it with the guts to roast.
This Great Shute or falls is about 1/2 a mile with the water of this great river Compressed within the Space of 150 paces in which there is great numbers of both large and Small rocks, water passing with great velocity forming & boiling in a most horriable manner, with a fall of about 20 feet, below it widens to about 200 paces and current gentle for a Short distance. a Short distance above is three Small rockey Islands, and at the head of those falls, three Small rockey Islands are Situated Crosswise the river, Several rocks above in the river & 4 large rocks in the head of the Shute; those obstructions together with the high Stones which are continually brakeing loose from the mountain on the Stard Side and roleing down into the Shute aded to those which brake loose from those Islands above and lodge in the Shute, must be the Cause of the rivers darning up to Such a distance above, where it Shows Such evidant marks of the Common current of the river being much lower than at the present day
This Great Shute or falls is about half a mile long, with the water of this great river compressed into a space of 150 paces. In this area, there are numerous large and small rocks, and the water flows with considerable speed, churning and boiling in a terrifying way, with a drop of about 20 feet. Below the falls, the river widens to about 200 paces, and the current becomes gentle for a short distance. Just upstream, there are three small rocky islands, and at the head of the falls, three small rocky islands are situated crosswise in the river. Several rocks are located upstream in the river, along with four large rocks at the head of the Shute. These obstacles, combined with the high stones that keep breaking loose from the mountain on the starboard side and rolling down into the Shute, along with those that break loose from the islands above and settle in the Shute, must be causing the river to dam up to such a distance upstream, where there are clear signs that the river's usual level was much lower than it is today.
[Clark, November 1, 1805]
November 1st Friday 1805 a verry cold morning wind from N. E and hard Set all hands packing the loading over th portage which is below the Grand Shutes and is 940 yards of bad way over rocks & on Slipery hill Sides The Indians who came down in 2 Canoes last night packed their fish over a portage of 21/2 miles to avoid a 2d Shute. four of them took their canoes over the 1st portage and run the 2d Shute, Great numbers of Sea otters, they are So Cautious that I with deficuelty got a Shute at one to day, which I must have killed but Could not get him as he Sunk
November 1st, Friday, 1805 - It was a very cold morning with a strong wind coming from the northeast, and everyone was busy packing the cargo over the portage below the Grand Shutes, which is 940 yards of rough terrain over rocks and slippery hillsides. The Indians who arrived last night in two canoes carried their fish over a 2.5-mile portage to avoid a second chute. Four of them took their canoes over the first portage and ran the second chute. There are a lot of sea otters; they are so cautious that I had a hard time getting a shot at one today, which I likely killed but couldn't retrieve because it sank.
We got all our Canoes and baggage below the Great Shute 3 of the canoes being Leakey from injures recved in hauling them over the rocks, obliged us to delay to have them repaired a bad rapid just below us three Indian canoes loaded with pounded fish for the &c. trade down the river arrived at the upper end of the portage this evening. I Can't lern whether those Indians trade with white people or Inds. below for the Beeds & copper, which they are So fond of—They are nearly necked, prefuring beeds to anything—Those Beeds they trafick with Indians Still higher up this river for Skins robes &c. &c. The Indians on those waters do not appear to be Sickly, Sore eyes are Common and maney have lost their eyes, Some one and, maney both, they have bad teeth, and the greater perpotion of them have worn their teeth down, maney into the gums, They are rather Small high Cheeks, women Small and homely, maney of them had Sweled legs, large about the knees,-owing to the position in which they Set on their hams, They are nearly necked only a piece of leather tied about their breech and a Small robe which generally comes to a little below their wastes and Scercely Sufficely large to cover arround them when confined—they are all fond of Clothes but more So of Beeds perticularly blue & white beeds. They are durty in the extreme both in their Coockery and in their houses.
We got all our canoes and gear below the Great Shute. Three of the canoes were leaking from injuries received while we were hauling them over the rocks, which made us delay to get them repaired. A bad rapid just below us brought three Indian canoes loaded with pounded fish for trade down the river, arriving at the upper end of the portage this evening. I can't tell if those Indians trade with white people or other tribes below for the beads and copper they like so much—they are nearly naked, preferring beads to anything else. They trade those beads with tribes further up the river for skins, robes, etc. The Indians in these waters don't seem to be sickly; sore eyes are common, and many have lost one or both eyes. They have bad teeth, and most of them have worn their teeth down, some even to the gums. They are generally small with high cheekbones; the women are small and plain, many of them have swollen legs, especially around the knees, likely due to the way they sit on their haunches. They are nearly naked, wearing only a piece of leather tied around their waist and a small robe that barely comes down to just below their waists, often not large enough to fully cover them when they sit. They all love clothes but are even more fond of beads, particularly blue and white ones. They are extremely dirty in both their cooking and their living spaces.
Those at the last Village raise the beads about five feet from the earth-under which they Store their Provisions—Their houses is about 33 feet to 50 feet Square, the Bore of which is about 30 Inc. high and 16 Inches wide in this form cut in a wide pine board they have maney imeges Cut in wood, generally, in the figure of a man—Those people are high with what they have to Sell, and Say the white people below Give them great Prices for what they Sell to them. Their nose are all Pierced, and the wear a white Shell maney of which are 2 Inch long pushed thro the nose—all the women have flat heads pressed to almost a point at top The press the female childrens heads between 2 bords when young-untill they form the Skul as they wish it which is generally verry flat. This amongst those people is considered as a great mark of butyand is practised in all the tribes we have passed on this river more or less. men take more of the drugery off the women than is common with Indians
Those at the last village raise the platforms about five feet off the ground, under which they store their provisions. Their houses are about 33 to 50 feet square, with a height of about 30 inches and a width of 16 inches. Cut from a wide pine board, they have many images carved in wood, usually in the shape of a man. These people are well aware of the value of what they have to sell and claim that the white people below pay them high prices for their goods. Their noses are all pierced, and they wear white shells, many of which are 2 inches long, pushed through their noses. All the women have flat heads, pressed to almost a point at the top. They press the heads of female children between two boards when they are young until they shape the skull as they want, which is generally very flat. Among these people, this is considered a significant mark of beauty and is practiced to varying degrees by all the tribes we have encountered on this river. Men take on more of the labor that typically falls to women than is common among other Native American groups.
[Clark, November 1, 1805]
November 1st Friday 1805 A verry Cool morning wind hard from the N. E. The Indians who arrived last evining took their Canoes on ther Sholders and Carried them below the Great Shute, we Set about takeing our Small Canoe and all the baggage by land 940 yards of bad Slippery and rockey way The Indians we discoverd took ther loading the whole length of the portage 21/2 miles, to avoid a Second Shute which appears verry bad to pass, and thro which they passed with their empty canoes. Great numbers of Sea Otters, they are So cautious that I with dificuelty got a Shot at one to day, which I must have killed, but could not get him as he Sunk
November 1st, Friday, 1805 It was a very cool morning with a strong wind coming from the northeast. The Indians who arrived last evening lifted their canoes onto their shoulders and carried them past the Great Chute. We started taking our small canoe and all the baggage overland for 940 yards on a bad, slippery, rocky path. We noticed the Indians carried their loads the entire length of the portage, 2.5 miles, to avoid a second Chute that looks really difficult to navigate. They passed through that one with their empty canoes. We saw a lot of sea otters; they are so cautious that I had a hard time getting a shot at one today. I must have hit it, but I couldn't retrieve it since it sank.
we got all our baggage over the Portage of 940 yards, after which we got the 4 large Canoes over by Slipping them over the rocks on poles placed across from one rock to another, and at Some places along partial Streams of the river. in passing those canoes over the rocks &c. three of them recived injuries which obliged us to delay to have them repared.
We got all our luggage over the 940-yard portage, after which we moved the 4 large canoes by sliding them over the rocks using poles set up from one rock to another, and in some spots along shallow streams of the river. While transporting those canoes over the rocks, three of them got damaged, which forced us to pause and have them repaired.
Several Indian Canoes arrived at the head of the portage, Some of the men accompanied by those from the village came down to Smoke with us, they appear to Speak the Same language with a little different axcent
Several Indian canoes arrived at the start of the portage. Some of the men, along with people from the village, came down to smoke with us. They seemed to speak the same language but with a slightly different accent.
I visited the Indian Village found that the Construction of the houses Similar to those abov described, with this difference only that they are larger Say from 35 to 50 feet by 30 feet, raised about 5 feet above the earth, and nearly as much below The Dores in the Same form and Size cut in the wide post which Supports one end of the ridge pole and which is carved and painted with different figures & Hieroglyphics Those people gave me to eate nuts berries & a little dried fish, and Sold me a hat of ther own taste without a brim, and baskets in which they hold their water—Their beads are raised about 41/2 feet, under which they Store away their dried fish, between the part on which they lie and the back wall they Store away their roots burries nuts and valuable articles on mats, which are Spread also around the fire place which is Sunk about one foot lower than the bottom fore of the house, this fire place is about 8 feet long and Six feet wide Secured with a fraim those houses are calculated for 4, 5 & 6 families, each familey haveing a nice painted ladder to assend up to their beads. I Saw in those houses Several wooden Images all cut in imitation of men, but differently fasioned and placed in the most conspicious parts of the houses, probably as an orniment I cannot lern certainly as to the traffick those Inds. carry on below, if white people or the indians who trade with the Whites who are either Settled or visit the mouth of this river. I believe mostly with the latter as their knowledge of the white people appears to be verry imperfect, and the articles which they appear to trade mostly i e Pounded fish, Beargrass, and roots; cannot be an object of comerce with furin merchants—however they git in return for those articles Blue and white beeds copper Tea Kitties, brass arm bands, some Scarlet and blue robes and a fiew articles of old clothes, they prefer beeds to any thing and will part with the last mouthfull or articles of clothing they have for a fiew of those beeds, those beeds the trafick with Indians Still higher up this river for roabs, Skins, cha-pel-el bread, beargrass &c. who in their turn trafick with those under the rockey mountains for Beargrass, Pashico roots & robes &c.
I visited the Indian Village and found that the houses were similar to those described above, with the only difference being that they are larger, about 35 to 50 feet by 30 feet, raised about 5 feet above the ground, and nearly as much below. The doors are the same shape and size, cut into the wide posts that support one end of the ridge pole, which are carved and painted with various figures and hieroglyphics. The people there offered me nuts, berries, and a little dried fish, and sold me a hat of their own design without a brim, as well as baskets to hold their water. Their beds are raised about 4.5 feet, and underneath, they store their dried fish. Between the area they sleep on and the back wall, they keep their roots, berries, nuts, and valuable items on mats, which are also spread around the fireplace. The fireplace is sunk about one foot lower than the floor of the house, measuring about 8 feet long and 6 feet wide, secured by a frame. These houses are designed for 4, 5, or 6 families, with each family having a nicely painted ladder to climb up to their beds. I saw several wooden figures in these houses, shaped like men but crafted differently and placed in prominent spots, likely for decoration. I couldn't learn for sure what trade those Indians engage in below, whether with white people or the Indians who trade with whites settled or visiting the mouth of this river. I believe it's mostly the latter, as their understanding of white people seems quite limited. The items they trade mostly include pounded fish, beargrass, and roots, which probably aren't of much interest to foreign merchants. However, they receive in exchange blue and white beads, copper kettles, brass arm bands, some scarlet and blue robes, and a few pieces of old clothing. They prefer beads above all else and will part with their last mouthful of food or clothing for just a few of those beads. Those beads are traded by Indians further up the river for robes, skins, bread, beargrass, etc., who, in turn, trade with those under the Rocky Mountains for beargrass, pashiko roots, robes, and more.
The nativs of the waters of the Columbia appear helthy, Some have turners on different parts of their bodies, and Sore and weak Eyes are common, maney have lost their Sight entirely great numbers with one eye out and frequently the other verry weak; This misfortune I must again asscribe to the water &c. They have bad teeth, which is not common with indians, maney have worn their teeth down and Some quite into their gums, this I cannot Satisfactorily account for it, do ascribe it in some measure to their method of eateing, their food, roots pertiularly, which they make use of as they are taken out of the earth frequently nearly covered with Sand, I have not Seen any of their long roots offered for Sale clear of Sand. They are rether below the Common Size high cheeks womin Small and homely, and have Swelled legs and thighs, and their knees remarkably large which I ascribe to the method in which they Sit on their hams-go nearly necked wareing only a piece of leather tied about their breast which falls down nearly as low as the waste, a Small roabe about 3 feet Square, and a piece of leather tied about their breach, They have all flat heads in this quarter They are tirty in the extream, both in their person and cooking, ware their hare loose hanging in every direction. They asc high prices for what they Sell and Say that the white people below give great prices for every thing &c.
The natives of the Columbia River area seem healthy, though some have scars on various parts of their bodies, and sore and weak eyes are common. Many have lost their sight completely, and a significant number have one eye missing and the other very weak. I attribute this misfortune again to the water, among other factors. They have poor teeth, which is unusual for Native Americans; many have worn their teeth down and some have worn them down to their gums. I can’t fully explain this but partially attribute it to their eating habits and their food, particularly roots, which they often consume directly after pulling them from the ground, usually still covered in sand. I haven’t seen any of their long roots for sale that were free of sand. They are somewhat smaller than average, with high cheekbones, and the women are small and unattractive, with swollen legs and thighs, and notably large knees, which I attribute to how they sit on their haunches. They often wear very little, just a piece of leather tied around their chest that hangs down nearly to the waist, a small robe about three feet square, and a piece of leather tied around their waist. They all have flat heads in this region. They are extremely dirty, both in their appearance and in their cooking, and wear their hair loose, hanging in every direction. They ask high prices for what they sell and claim that the white people downriver pay big prices for everything.
The noses are all pierced and when they are dressed they have a long tapered piece of white shell or wampum put through the nose, Those Shells are about 2 inches in length. I observed in maney of the villeages which I have passed, the heads of the female children in the press for the purpose of compressing their heads in their infancy into a certain form, between two boards
The noses are all pierced, and when they dress up, they wear a long tapered piece of white shell or wampum through their noses. These shells are about 2 inches long. I noticed in many of the villages I've passed through that the heads of female children are pressed to shape them in a certain way during infancy, between two boards.
[Clark, November 2, 1805]
Novr. 2d Saturday 1805 Meridian altitude 59° 45' 45" made a portage of about 11/2 miles with half of the Baggage, and run the rapid with the Canoes without much damage, one Struck a rock & Split a little, and 3 others took in Some water 7 Squars Came over the portage loaded with Dried fish & Beargrass, Soon after 4 men Came down in a Canoe after takeing brackfast, & after taking a meridian altitude we Set out Passed 2 bad rapids one at 2 & the other at 4 mile below the Isd on Lard. and upper end of Strawberry Island on the Stard. Side from the Creek end of last Course
Nov. 2nd, Saturday, 1805. Meridian altitude 59° 45' 45". We made a portage of about 1.5 miles with half of the baggage and navigated the rapids with the canoes without too much damage. One canoe hit a rock and split a bit, and three others took on some water. Seven canoes came over the portage loaded with dried fish and beargrass. Soon after, four men came down in a canoe after having breakfast, and after taking a meridian altitude, we set out. We passed two tough rapids, one 2 miles and the other 4 miles below the island on the left side, at the upper end of Strawberry Island on the right side from the creek at the end of the last course.
We Labiech killed 14 Geese & a Brant, Collins one Jos. Fields & R 3 those gees are much Smaller than Common, and have white under their rumps & around the tale, The tide rises here a fiew 9 Inches, I cannot assertain the prosise hite it rises at the last rapid or at this placeof Camp.
We, Labiech, killed 14 geese and a brant; Collins got one jos. Fields and R. These geese are much smaller than usual and have white under their rumps and around the tail. The tide here rises a few 9 inches. I can't determine the exact height it rises at the last rapid or at this campsite.
The Indians we left at the portage passed us this evening one other Canoe Come up
The Native Americans we left at the portage passed us this evening in another canoe.
[Clark, November 2, 1805]
November 2nd Saturday 1805 Examined the rapid below us more pertcelarly the danger appearing too great to Hazzard our Canoes loaded, dispatched all the men who could not Swim with loads to the end of the portage below, I also walked to the end of the portage with the carriers where I delayed untill everry articles was brought over and canoes arrived Safe. here we brackfast and took a Meridn. altitude 59°45'45" about the time we were Setting out 7 Squars came over loaded with Dried fish, and bear grass neetly bundled up, Soon after 4 Indian men came down over the rapid in a large canoe. passed a rapid at 2 miles & 1 at 4 miles opposit the lower point of a high Island on the Lard Side, and a little below 4 Houses on the Stard. Bank, a Small Creek on the Lard Side opposit Straw berry Island, which heads below the last rapid, opposit the lower point of this Island passed three Islands covered with tall timber opposit the Beatin rock Those Islands are nearest the Starboard Side, imediately below on the Stard. Side passed a village of nine houses, which is Situated between 2 Small Creeks, and are of the Same construction of those above; here the river widens to near a mile, and the bottoms are more extensive and thickly timbered, as also the high mountains on each Side, with Pine, Spruce pine, Cotton wood, a Species of ash, and alder. at 17 miles passed a rock near the middle of the river, about 100 feet high and 80 feet Diamuter, proceed on down a Smoth gentle Stream of about 2 miles wide, in which the tide has its effect as high as the Beaten rock or the Last rapids at Strawberry Island,—Saw great numbers of waterfowl of Different kinds, Such as Swan, Geese, white & grey brants, ducks of various kinds, Guls, & Pleaver. Labeach killed 14 brantjoseph Fields 3 & Collins one. we encamped under a high projecting rock on the Lard. Side, here the mountains leave the river on each Side, which from the great Shute to this place is high and rugid; thickly Covered with timber principalley of the Pine Species. The bottoms below appear extensive and thickly Covered with wood. river here about 21/2 miles wide. Seven Indians in a Canoe on their way down to trade with the nativs below, encamp with us, those we left at the portage passed us this evening and proceeded on down The ebb tide rose here about 9 Inches, the flood tide must rise here much higher—we made 29 miles to day from the Great Shute-
November 2nd, Saturday, 1805. We examined the rapid below us more closely, as the risk seemed too high to risk our loaded canoes. We sent all the men who couldn’t swim with loads to the end of the portage below. I also walked to the end of the portage with the carriers, where I waited until every item was brought over and the canoes arrived safely. We had breakfast here and took a meridian altitude of 59°45'45". Just as we were setting out, seven squaws came over, loaded with dried fish and bear grass neatly bundled. Soon after, four Indian men came down the rapid in a large canoe. We passed a rapid at 2 miles and another at 4 miles opposite the lower point of a high island on the left side, and just below that, there were four houses on the right bank. There was a small creek on the left side opposite Strawberry Island, which heads below the last rapid. Opposite the lower point of this island, we passed three islands covered with tall trees opposite the Beaten rock. Those islands are closest to the right side. Just below, on the right side, we passed a village of nine houses situated between two small creeks, of the same construction as those above. Here the river widens to nearly a mile, and the bottoms are larger and more densely timbered, as are the high mountains on each side, featuring pine, spruce, cottonwood, a type of ash, and alder. At 17 miles, we passed a rock near the middle of the river, about 100 feet high and 80 feet in diameter, then continued downstream along a smooth, gentle stream about 2 miles wide, where the tide affects the water as far as the Beaten rock or the last rapids at Strawberry Island. We saw a great number of waterfowl of different types, including swans, geese, white and gray brants, various ducks, gulls, and plovers. LaBeache shot 14 brants, Joseph Fields got 3, and Collins managed one. We camped under a high projecting rock on the left side, where the mountains recede from the river on each side. From the Great Shute to this point, the terrain is high and rugged, thickly covered with mostly pine timber. The bottoms below appear vast and are also thickly wooded. The river here is about 2.5 miles wide. Seven Indians in a canoe, on their way down to trade with the natives below, camped with us. Those we left at the portage passed us this evening and continued down. The ebb tide rose here about 9 inches; the flood tide must rise here much higher. We made 29 miles today from the Great Shute.
[Clark, November 3, 1805]
November 3rd Sunday 1805 The fog So thick this morning we did not think it prudent to Set out untill 10 oClock we Set out and proceeded on verry well, accompanied by our Indian friends—This morning Labich killed 3 Geese flying Collins killed a Duck—The water rose Inches last night the effects of tide. The Countrey has a handsom appearance in advance no mountains extensive bottoms—the water Shallow for a great distance from Shore-. The fog continued thick untill 12 oClock, we Coasted, and halted at the mouth of a large river on the Lard Side, This river throws out emence quanty of Sand and is verry Shallow, th narrowest part 200 yards wide bold Current, much resembling the river Plat, Several Islands about 1 mile up and has a Sand bar of 3 miles in extent imedeately in its mouth, discharging it waters by 2 mouths, and Crowding its Corse Sands So as to throw the Columbian waters on its Nothern banks, & confdg it to 1/2 ms. in width Passed a Small Prarie on the Stard. Side above, a large Creek opposit qk Sand River on the Stard. Side, extensive bottoms and low hilley Countrey on each Side (good wintering Place) a high peaked mountain Suppose to be Mt. Hood is on the Lard Side S. 85 E. 40 miles distant from the mouth of quick Sand river.-
November 3rd, Sunday, 1805 The fog was so thick this morning that we didn’t think it was wise to set out until 10 o'clock. We set off and made good progress, accompanied by our Indian friends. This morning, Labich killed 3 geese in flight, and Collins killed a duck. The water rose a few inches last night due to the tide. The countryside looks nice ahead—no mountains, just wide lowlands. The water is shallow for a long distance from shore. The fog remained thick until 12 o'clock. We navigated along the coast and stopped at the mouth of a large river on the left side. This river carries an immense amount of sand and is very shallow; the narrowest part is 200 yards wide with a strong current, resembling the River Plate. There are several islands about a mile upstream, and a sandbar extends 3 miles at its mouth, discharging its waters through 2 openings and crowding its course with sand so that it pushes the Columbia's waters onto its northern banks, narrowing it to half a mile in width. We passed a small prairie on the starboard side and a large creek opposite Quick Sand River on the starboard side, with extensive lowlands and hilly country on both sides (a good wintering spot). A high peak believed to be Mt. Hood is on the left side, 40 miles southeast from the mouth of Quick Sand River.
[Clark, November 3, 1805]
November 3rd Sunday 1805 The Fog So thick this morning that we could not See a man 50 Steps off, this fog detained us untill 10 oClock at which time we Set out, accompanied by our Indian friends who are from a village near the great falls, previous to our Setting out Collins killed a large Buck, and Labiech killed 3 Geese flying. I walked on the Sand beech Lard. Side, opposit the canoes as they passed allong. The under groth rushes, vines &c. in the bottoms too thick to pass through, at 3 miles I arrived at the enterance of a river which appeared to Scatter over a Sand bar, the bottom of which I could See quite across and did not appear to be 4 Inches deep in any part; I attempted to wade this Stream and to my astonishment found the bottom a quick Sand, and impassable—I called to the Canoes to put to Shore, I got into the Canoe and landed below the mouth, & Capt Lewis and my Self walked up this river about 11/2 miles to examine this river which we found to be a verry Considerable Stream Dischargeing its waters through 2 Chanels which forms an Island of about 3 miles in length on the river and 11/2 miles wide, composed of Corse Sand which is thrown out of this quick Sand river Compressing the waters of the Columbia and throwing the whole Current of its waters against its Northern banks, within a Chanel of 1/2 a mile wide, Several Small Islands 1 mile up this river, This Stream has much the appearance of the River Plait; roleing its quick Sands into the bottoms with great velocity after which it is divided into 2 Chanels by a large Sand bar before mentioned, the narrowest part of this River is 120 yards-on the Opposit Side of the Columbia a falls in above this Creek on the Same Side is a Small prarie. extensive low country on each Side thickly timbered.
November 3rd, Sunday, 1805 The Fog The fog was so thick this morning that we couldn't see a person even 50 steps away. This fog held us up until 10 o'clock, when we finally set out, joined by our Indian friends from a village near the great falls. Before we left, Collins shot a large buck, and Labiech shot three geese flying by. I walked along the sandy beach on the left side, opposite the canoes as they passed by. The undergrowth—rushes, vines, etc.—in the low areas was too thick to get through. After three miles, I reached the entrance of a river that seemed to spread out over a sandbar, which I could see completely across, and it didn't appear to be more than four inches deep anywhere. I tried to wade through this stream and was surprised to find the bottom was quicksand, making it impassable. I called to the canoes to go ashore, got into one, and landed below the mouth. Captain Lewis and I walked up this river about a mile and a half to explore it, finding it to be quite a substantial stream emptying its waters through two channels that create an island about three miles long and a mile and a half wide, made of coarse sand thrown out by this quicksand river, compressing the waters of the Columbia and directing the whole current against its northern banks, within a half-mile-wide channel. There were several small islands a mile up this river. This stream resembles the Platte River, rolling its quicksand into the bottoms with great speed, after which it splits into two channels by the large sandbar mentioned earlier. The narrowest part of this river is 120 yards wide. On the opposite side of the Columbia, above this creek, there is a small prairie and extensive low-lying areas on each side that are thickly forested.
The Quick Sand river appears to pass through the low countrey at the foot of those high range of mountains in a Southerly direction,—The large Creeks which fall into the Columbia on the Stard. Side rise in the Same range of mountains to the N. N. E. and pass through Some ridgey land—A Mountain which we Suppose to be Mt. Hood is S. 85 E about 47 miles distant from the mouth of quick sand river This mtn. is Covered with Snow and in the range of mountains which we have passed through and is of a Conical form but rugid—after takeing dinner at the mouth of this river we proceeded on passed the head of a Island near the lard Side back of which on the Same Side and near the head a large Creek falls in, and nearly opposit & 3 miles below the upper mouth of quick Sand river is the lower mouth, This Island is 31/2 miles long, has rocks at the upper point, Some timber on the borders of this Island in the middle open and ponney. Some rugid rocks in the middle of the Stream opposit this Island. proceeded in to Center of a large Island in the middle of the river which we call Dimond Isld. from its appearance, here we met 15 Indn men in 2 canoes from below, they informed us they Saw 3 vestles below &c. &c. we landed on the North Side of this Dimond Island and Encamped, Capt. L walked out with his gun on the Island, Sent out hunters & fowlers—below quick Sand River the Countrey is low rich and thickly timbered on each Side of the river, the Islands open & Some ponds river wide and emence numbers of fowls flying in every direction Such as Swan, geese, Brants, Cranes, Stalks, white guls, comerants & plevers &c. also great numbers of Sea Otter in the river—a Canoe arrived from the village below the last rapid with a man his wife and 3 children, and a woman whome had been taken prisoner from the Snake Inds. on Clarks River I Sent the Interpreters wife who is a So So ne or Snake Indian of the Missouri, to Speake to this Squar, they Could not understand each other Sufficiently to Converse. This familey and the Inds. we met from below continued with us Capt Lewis borrowed a Small Canoe of those Indians & 4 men took her across to a Small lake in the Isld. Cap L. and 3 men Set out after night in this Canoe in Serch of the Swans, Brants Ducks &c. &c. which appeared in great numbers in the Lake, he Killed a Swan and Several Ducks which made our number of fowls this evening 3 Swan, 8 brant and 5 Ducks, on which we made a Sumptious Supper. We gave the Indian-who lent the Canoe a brant, and Some meat to the others. one of those Indians, the man from the village near the lower Rapids has a gun with a brass barrel & Cock of which he prises highly—note the mountain we Saw from near the forks proves to be Mount Hood
The Quick Sand river seems to flow through the low country at the base of those high mountains heading south. The large creeks that feed into the Columbia on the starboard side rise in the same mountain range to the north-northeast and pass through some hilly terrain. A mountain we think is Mt. Hood lies southeast at about 47 miles from the mouth of the Quick Sand river. This mountain is snow-covered and part of the range we’ve traveled through; it has a conical shape but is rough. After having lunch at the river's mouth, we continued on, passing the head of an island near the left bank, behind which, on the same side and near the head, a large creek flows in. Almost directly opposite, about three miles below the upper mouth of the Quick Sand river, is the lower mouth. This island is 3.5 miles long, has rocks at the upper end, and some trees along the edges; the middle is open and grassy. There are also rough rocks in the center of the stream opposite this island. We proceeded to the center of a large island in the middle of the river, which we call Diamond Island because of its appearance. Here, we met 15 Indian men in two canoes coming from downstream; they told us they saw three vessels below, and so on. We landed on the north side of Diamond Island and set up camp. Captain Lewis walked out with his gun on the island, sending out hunters and bird catchers. Below the Quick Sand River, the land is low, rich, and densely wooded on both sides of the river, with the islands being open and some ponds, wide rivers, and countless birds flying in every direction, such as swans, geese, brant, cranes, storks, white gulls, cormorants, and plovers, among others. There are also a lot of sea otters in the river. A canoe arrived from the village below the last rapid carrying a man, his wife, their three children, and a woman who had been captured by the Snake Indians on Clark's River. I sent the interpreter’s wife, who is a So So ne or Snake Indian from the Missouri, to speak to this woman, but they couldn’t communicate well enough to have a conversation. This family and the Indians we met from below stayed with us. Captain Lewis borrowed a small canoe from those Indians, and four men took it across to a small lake on the island. Captain Lewis and three men set out after dark in this canoe searching for swans, brant, ducks, etc., which were plentiful in the lake. He shot a swan and several ducks, bringing our total for the evening to three swans, eight brant, and five ducks, making for a lavish supper. We gave the Indian who lent us the canoe a brant and some meat to the others. One of those Indians, the man from the village near the lower rapids, has a gun with a brass barrel and a cock, which he values highly. Note that the mountain we saw from near the forks is confirmed to be Mount Hood.
[Clark, November 4, 1805]
Novr. 4th Monday 1805 A Cloudy Cool morning, wind West, we Set out at 1/2 past 8 oClock having dispatched 4 men in the Small canoe to hunt
Nov. 4th Monday 1805 A cloudy, cool morning, wind from the west. We set out at 8:30, having sent 4 men in the small canoe to hunt.
(Those people men & women heads are flat)
We landed at a village 200 men of Flatheads of 25 houses 50 canoes built of Straw, we were treated verry kindly by them, they gave us round root near the Size of a hens egg roasted which they call Wap-to to eate
We landed in a village with 200 Flatheads, consisting of 25 houses and 50 canoes made of straw. They treated us very kindly, giving us round roots about the size of a hen's egg that they roasted and called Wap-to to eat.
I walked out on the Stard. Side found the country fine, an open Prarie for 1 mile back of which the wood land comence riseing back, the timber on the edge of the Prarie is white oke, back is Spruce pine & other Species of Pine mixed Some under groth of a wild crab & a Specis of wood I'm not acquainted, a Specis of maple & Cotton wood grow near this river, Some low bushes
I walked out onto the Staird. I found the countryside nice, an open prairie for a mile, beyond which the woodland starts rising up. The trees at the edge of the prairie are white oak, and further back are spruce pine and other types of pine mixed in. There’s some underbrush of wild crabapple and a type of tree I don't recognize, along with a species of maple and cottonwood growing near this river, along with some low bushes.
Indians continue to be with us, Several Canoes Continue with us, The Indians at the last village have more Cloth and uriopian trinkets than above I Saw Some Guns, a Sword, maney Powder flasks, Salers jackets, overalls, hats & Shirts, Copper and Brass trinkets with few Beeds only. dureing the time I was at Dinner the Indians Stold my tomahawk which I made use of to Smoke I Serched but Could not find it, a Pond on the Stard Side, off from the river. Raspberries and ____ are also in the bottoms—met a large and Small canoe with 12 men from below the men were dressed with a variety of articles of European manufactory the large Canoe had emeges on the bow & Stern handsomly Carved in wood & painted with the figur of a Bear in front & man in a Stern. Saw white geese with black wings—Saw a Small Crab-apple with all the taste & flavor of the Common—Those Indians were all armed with Pistols or bows and arrows ready Sprung war axes &c.
Indians are still with us. Several canoes continue to accompany us. The Indians at the last village have more cloth and European trinkets than those we saw previously. I saw some guns, a sword, many powder flasks, sailors' jackets, overalls, hats, and shirts, as well as copper and brass trinkets with only a few beads. While I was having dinner, the Indians stole my tomahawk, which I used to smoke. I searched but couldn’t find it; there was a pond on the starboard side, away from the river. Raspberries and other fruits are also growing in the bottoms. We encountered a large and a small canoe with 12 men from downstream. The men were dressed in various articles of European manufacture. The large canoe had carvings on the bow and stern, beautifully crafted in wood and painted with the figure of a bear in front and a man in the stern. I saw white geese with black wings and a small crabapple that had all the taste and flavor of the common variety. The Indians were all armed with pistols, bows and arrows, and ready-to-use war axes, etc.
Mount Hellen bears N. 25° E about 80 miles, this is the mountain we Saw near the foks of this river. it is emensely high and covered with Snow, riseing in a kind of Cone perhaps the highest pinecal from the common leavel in america passed a village of 4 hs. on the Stard Side at 2 mils, one at 3 mls.
Mount Hellen is located at N. 25° E, about 80 miles away. This is the mountain we saw near the forks of the river. It is extremely high and covered with snow, rising in a conical shape, perhaps the highest peak from the general level in America. We passed a village with 4 houses on the starboard side at 2 miles, and another at 3 miles.
One deer 2 Ducks & Brant killed
One deer, 2 ducks, and brant killed.
[Clark, November 4, 1805]
November 4th Monday 1805 A cloudy cool morning wind from the West we Set out at 1/2 past 8 oClock, one man Shannon Set out early to walk on the Island to kill Something, he joined us at the lower point with a Buck. This Island is 6 miles long and near 3 miles wide thinly timbered (Tide rose last night 18 inches perpndicular at Camp) near the lower point of this dimond Island is The head of a large Island Seperated from a Small one by a narrow chanel, and both Situated nearest the Lard Side, those Islands as also the bottoms are thickly Covered with Pine &c. river wide, Country low on both Sides; on the Main Lard Shore a Short distance below the last Island we landed at a village of 25 Houses; 24 of those houses were thached with Straw, and covered with bark, the other House is built of boards in the form of those above, except that it is above ground and about 50 feet in length and covered with broad Split boards This village contains about 200 men of the Skil-loot nation I counted 52 canoes on the bank in front of this village maney of them verry large and raised in bow. we recognised the man who over took us last night, he invited us to a lodge in which he had Some part and gave us a roundish roots about the Size of a Small Irish potato which they roasted in the embers until they became Soft, This root they call Wap-pa-to which the Bulb of the Chinese cultivate in great quantities called the Sa-git ti folia or common arrow head-. it has an agreeable taste and answers verry well in place of bread. we purchased about 4 bushels of this root and divided it to our party, at 7 miles below this village passed the upper point of a large Island nearest the Lard Side, a Small Prarie in which there is a pond opposit on the Stard. here I landed and walked on Shore, about 3 miles a fine open Prarie for about 1 mile, back of which the countrey rises gradually and wood land comencies Such as white oake, pine of different kinds, wild crabs with the taste and flavour of the common crab and Several Species of undergroth of which I am not acquainted, a few Cottonwood trees & the Ash of this countrey grow Scattered on the river bank, Saw Some Elk and Deer Sign and Joined Capt. Lewis at a place he had landed with the party for Diner. Soon after Several Canoes of Indians from the village above came down dressed for the purpose as I Supposed of Paying us a friendly visit, they had Scarlet & blue blankets Salors jackets, overalls, Shirts and Hats independant of their Usial dress; the most of them had either war axes Spears or Bows Sprung with quivers of arrows, Muskets or pistols, and tin flasks to hold their powder; Those fellows we found assumeing and disagreeable, however we Smoked with them and treated them with every attention & friendship.
November 4th, Monday, 1805 It was a cloudy and cool morning with a west wind. We set out at 8:30 AM. One man, Shannon, left early to walk on the island and hunt something; he joined us at the lower point with a buck. This island is 6 miles long and about 3 miles wide, with sparse timber. (The tide rose last night by 18 inches perpendicular at camp.) Near the lower point of this diamond-shaped island is the head of a large island separated from a smaller one by a narrow channel, both situated closest to the left side. These islands, as well as the low areas, are thickly covered with pine and other trees. The river is wide, and the land is low on both sides. A short distance below the last island, we landed at a village of 25 houses. Twenty-four of those houses were thatched with straw and covered with bark; the other house was built of boards, similar to the ones above, except it was elevated and about 50 feet long, covered with broad split boards. This village has about 200 men from the Skil-loot nation. I counted 52 canoes on the bank in front of the village, many of them very large and raised at the bow. We recognized the man who caught up with us last night; he invited us to a lodge he had a part in and offered us some roundish roots, about the size of small Irish potatoes, which they roasted in the embers until soft. This root is called Wap-pa-to, similar to the bulb that the Chinese cultivate in large quantities called Sagittaria or common arrowhead. It has a pleasant taste and works well as a substitute for bread. We bought about 4 bushels of this root and shared it with our group. Seven miles below this village, we passed the upper point of a large island nearest to the left side, where there was a small prairie with a pond opposite on the right. Here, I landed and walked along the shore, enjoying a fine open prairie for about a mile, behind which the land gradually rose with woodlands starting, featuring white oak, different kinds of pine, wild crabs that taste like regular crabs, and various types of undergrowth that I was unfamiliar with. A few cottonwood trees and ash trees grow scattered along the riverbank. I saw some elk and deer signs and joined Captain Lewis at a place where he had landed with the party for dinner. Shortly after, several canoes of Indians from the village above came down, dressed for what I assumed was a friendly visit. They wore scarlet and blue blankets, sailor jackets, overalls, shirts, and hats in addition to their usual attire; most of them carried war axes, spears, bows, quivers of arrows, muskets, or pistols, along with tin flasks for their powder. Those guys seemed assumptive and disagreeable, but we smoked with them and treated them with attention and friendship.
dureing the time we were at dinner those fellows Stold my pipe Tomahawk which They were Smoking with, I imediately Serched every man and the canoes, but Could find nothing of my Tomahawk, while Serching for the Tomahawk one of those Scoundals Stole a Cappoe of one of our interpreters, which was found Stufed under the root of a treer, near the place they Sat, we became much displeased with those fellows, which they discovered and moved off on their return home to their village, except 2 canoes which had passed on down—we proceeded on met a large & a Small Canoe from below, with 12 men the large Canoe was ornimented with Images carved in wood the figures of a Bear in front & a man in Stern, Painted & fixed verry netely on the of the Canoe, rising to near the hight of a man two Indians verry finely Dressed & with hats on was in this canoe passed the lower point of the Island which is nine miles in length haveing passed 2 Islands on the Stard Side of this large Island, three Small Islands at its lower point. the Indians make Signs that a village is Situated back of those Islands on the Lard. Side and I believe that a Chanel is Still on the Lrd, Side as a Canoe passed in between the Small Islands, and made Signs that way, probably to traffick with Some of the nativs liveing on another Chanel, at 3 miles lower, and 12 Leagues below quick Sand river passed a village of four large houses on The Lard. Side, near which we had a full view of Mt. Helien which is perhaps the highest pinical in America from their base it bears N. 25° E about 90 miles—This is the mountain I Saw from the Muscle Shell rapid on the 19th of October last Covered with Snow, it rises Something in the form of a Sugar lofe—about a mile lower passed a Single house on the Lard. Side, and one on the Stard. Side, passed a village on each Side and Camped near a house on the Stard. Side we proceeded on untill one hour after dark with a view to get clear of the nativs who was constantly about us, and troublesom, finding that we could not get Shut of those people for one night, we landed and Encamped on the Stard. Side Soon after 2 canoes Came to us loaded with Indians, we purchased a fiew roots of them.
During dinner, those guys stole my pipe and tomahawk, which they were using. I immediately searched every man and the canoes, but I couldn't find my tomahawk. While I was searching for it, one of those scoundrels stole a cap from one of our interpreters, which was later found stuffed under the root of a tree close to where they sat. We became very upset with those guys, which they noticed, and they left to head back to their village, except for two canoes that continued downstream. We moved on and met a large and a small canoe from below, with 12 men. The large canoe was decorated with carved wooden images, featuring a bear at the front and a man at the back, painted and neatly placed on the top of the canoe, rising to nearly the height of a man. Two Indians, dressed very nicely and wearing hats, were in this canoe. We passed the lower point of the island, which is nine miles long, after we passed two islands on the starboard side of this large island and three small islands at its lower point. The Indians signaled that a village is situated behind those islands on the left side, and I believe there’s still a channel on the left side as one canoe passed between the small islands and signaled that way, probably to trade with some of the natives living on another channel three miles downstream, and 12 leagues below Quick Sand River, where we passed a village of four large houses on the left side. Near there, we got a full view of Mt. Helien, which is possibly the highest peak in America, located about 90 miles northeast from its base. This is the mountain I saw from the Muscle Shell rapid on October 19th last year, covered in snow, and it rises somewhat like a sugar loaf. About a mile lower, we passed a single house on the left side and one on the right side, then passed a village on each side and camped near a house on the right side. We continued until an hour after dark, aiming to get away from the natives who were constantly around us and troublesome. Realizing we couldn’t get rid of them for even one night, we landed and set up camp on the right side. Soon after, two canoes came to us filled with Indians, and we bought a few roots from them.
This evening we Saw vines much resembling the raspberry which is verry thick in the bottoms. A range of high hills at about 5 miles on the Lard Side which runs S. E. & N W. Covered with tall timber the bottoms below in this range of hills and the river is rich and leavel, Saw White geese with a part of their wings black. The river here is 11/2 miles wide, and current jentle. opposit to our camp on a Small Sandy Island the brant & geese make Such a noise that it will be impossible for me to Sleap. we made 29 miles to day Killed a Deer and Several brant and ducks. I Saw a Brarow tamed at the 1st village to day The Indians which we have passd to day of the Scil-loot nation in their language from those near & about the long narrows of the Che-luc-it-te-quar or E-chee-lute, their dress differ but little, except they have more of the articles precured from the white traders, they all have flatened heads both men and women, live principally on fish and Wap pa toe roots, they also kill Some fiew Elk and Deer, dureing the Short time I remained in their village they brought in three Deer which they had killed with their Bow & arrows. They are thievishly inclined as we have experienced.
This evening we saw vines that looked a lot like raspberries, very thick in the low areas. A range of high hills about 5 miles away on the left side runs southeast and northwest, covered with tall trees. The lowlands below this range of hills and the river are rich and flat. I saw white geese with part of their wings black. The river here is a mile and a half wide, and the current is gentle. Across from our camp on a small sandy island, the brant and geese are making so much noise that it's impossible for me to sleep. We traveled 29 miles today, killed a deer, and several brant and ducks. I saw a tamed bear at the first village today. The Indians we passed today belong to the Scil-loot nation, and in their language, they’re from those near the long narrows of the Che-luc-it-te-quar or E-chee-lute. Their clothing is not much different, except they have more items obtained from white traders. They all have flattened heads, both men and women, and mainly live on fish and wapato roots. They also kill a few elk and deer. During the short time I stayed in their village, they brought in three deer they had killed with their bows and arrows. They tend to be quite thievish, as we have experienced.
[Clark, November 5, 1805]
Novr. 5th Tuesday 1805 a Cloudy morning Som rain the after part of last night & this morning. I could not Sleep for the noise kept by the Swans, Geese, white & black brant, Ducks &c. on a opposit base, & Sand hill Crane, they were emensely numerous and their noise horrid. We Set out at Sun rise & our hunters killed 10 Brant 4 of which were white with black wings 2 Ducks, and a Swan which were divided, we Came too and Encamped on the Lard. Side under a high ridgey land, the high land come to the river on each Side. the river about 11/2 mile wide. those high lands rise gradually from the river & bottoms—we are all wet Cold and disagreeable, rain Continues & encreases. I killed a Pheasent which is very fat—my feet and legs cold. I saw 17 Snakes to day on a Island, but little appearance of Frost at this place.
Nov 5th, Tuesday, 1805. It was a cloudy morning with some rain from last night and this morning. I couldn’t sleep because of the noise from the swans, geese, white and black brant, ducks, etc., on an opposite bank, and the sandhill cranes were extremely numerous and their noise was terrible. We set out at sunrise and our hunters shot 10 brant, 4 of which were white with black wings, along with 2 ducks and a swan, which we divided. We stopped and camped on the left side under a high ridge. The high land meets the river on both sides. The river is about 1.5 miles wide. Those highlands rise gradually from the river and the floodplains. We are all wet, cold, and uncomfortable as the rain continues and increases. I shot a pheasant that is very fat—my feet and legs are cold. I saw 17 snakes today on an island, but there’s little sign of frost in this place.
[Clark, November 5, 1805]
November 5th Tuesday 1805 Rained all the after part of last night, rain continues this morning, I slept but verry little last night for the noise Kept dureing the whole of the night by the Swans, Geese, white & Grey Brant Ducks &c. on a Small Sand Island close under the Lard. Side; they were emensely noumerous, and their noise horid—we Set out early here the river is not more than 3/4 of a mile in width, passed a Small Prarie on the Stard. Side passed 2 houses about 1/2 a mile from each other on the Lard. Side a Canoe came from the upper house, with 3 men in it mearly to view us, passed an Isld. Covered with tall trees & green briers Seperated from the Stard. Shore by a narrow Chanel at 9 miles I observed on the Chanel which passes on the Stard Side of this Island a Short distance above its lower point is Situated a large village, the front of which occupies nearly 1/4 of a mile fronting the Chanel, and closely Connected, I counted 14 houses in front here the river widens to about 11/2 miles. Seven canoes of Indians came out from this large village to view and trade with us, they appeared orderly and well disposed, they accompanied us a fiew miles and returned back. about 111/2 miles below this village on the Lard Side behind a rockey Sharp point, we passed a Chanel 1/4 of a mile wide, which I take to be the one the Indian Canoe entered yesterday from the lower point of Immage Canoe Island a Some low clifts of rocks below this Chanel, a large Island Close under the Stard Side opposit, and 2 Small Islands, below, here we met 2 canoes from below,—below those Islands a range of high hills form the Stard. Bank of the river, the Shore bold and rockey, Covered with a thick groth of Pine an extensive low Island, Seperated from the Lard side by a narrow Chanel, on this Island we Stoped to Dine I walked out found it open & covered with grass interspersed with Small ponds, in which was great numbr. of foul, the remains of an old village on the lower part of this Island, I saw Several deer our hunters killed on this Island a Swan, 4 white 6 Grey brant & 2 Ducks all of them were divided, below the lower point of this Island a range of high hills) which runs S. E. forms the Lard. bank of the river the Shores bold and rockey & hills Covered with pine, The high hills leave the river on the Stard. Side a high bottom between the hill & river. We met 4 Canoes of Indians from below, in which there is 26 Indians, one of those Canoes is large, and ornimented with Images on the bow & Stern. That in the Bow the likeness of a Bear, and in Stern the picture of a man—we landed on the Lard. Side & camped a little below the mouth of a creek on the Stard. Side a little below the mouth of which is an Old Village which is now abandaned-; here the river is about one and a half miles wide, and deep, The high Hills which run in a N W. & S E. derection form both banks of the river the Shore boald and rockey, the hills rise gradually & are Covered with a thick groth of pine &c. The valley which is from above the mouth of Quick Sand River to this place may be computed at 60 miles wide on a Derect line, & extends a great Distanc to the right & left rich thickly Covered with tall timber, with a fiew Small Praries bordering on the river and on the Islands; Some fiew Standing Ponds & Several Small Streams of running water on either Side of the river; This is certainly a fertill and a handsom valley, at this time Crouded with Indians. The day proved Cloudy with rain the greater part of it, we are all wet cold and disagreeable—I Saw but little appearance of frost in this valley which we call Wap-pa-loo Columbia from that root or plants growing Spontaneously in this valley only In my walk of to Day I saw 17 Striped Snakes I killed a grouse which was verry fat, and larger than Common. This is the first night which we have been entirely clear of Indians Since our arrival on the waters of the Columbia River. We made 32 miles to day by estimation-
November 5th, Tuesday, 1805. It rained all night, and the rain continues this morning. I barely slept last night because of the noise from the swans, geese, white and gray brant ducks, etc., on a small sand island close to the left bank. They were incredibly numerous, and their noise was horrible. We set out early; here the river is no more than three-quarters of a mile wide. We passed a small prairie on the right bank and two houses about half a mile apart on the left bank. A canoe came from the upper house with three men just to see us. We passed an island covered with tall trees and green brambles, separated from the right shore by a narrow channel. At nine miles, I observed on the channel that runs on the right side of this island, just a short distance above its lower point, was a large village that occupies nearly a quarter of a mile facing the channel and closely connected. I counted 14 houses in front; here the river widens to about a mile and a half. Seven canoes of Indians came out from this large village to see and trade with us. They seemed orderly and friendly, and they accompanied us for a few miles before returning. About 11 and a half miles below this village, behind a rocky sharp point on the left side, we passed a channel a quarter of a mile wide, which I assume is the one the Indian canoe entered yesterday from the lower point of Immage Canoe Island. There are some low cliffs of rocks below this channel, a large island close to the right side opposite, and two small islands below. Here we met two canoes from farther down; below those islands, a range of high hills forms the right bank of the river. The shore is steep and rocky, covered with thick growths of pine. An extensive low island is separated from the left side by a narrow channel. On this island, we stopped to dine. I walked out and found it open and covered with grass, interspersed with small ponds filled with many birds. The remains of an old village on the lower part of this island caught my eye. I saw several deer, and our hunters killed a swan, four white brant, six gray brant, and two ducks; all of them were divided. Below the lower point of this island, a range of high hills running southeast forms the left bank of the river, and the shores are bold and rocky, with hills covered in pine. The high hills leave the river on the right side, leaving a high bottom between the hills and the river. We met four canoes of Indians from below, containing 26 Indians. One of the canoes was large and decorated with images on the bow and stern. The bow had a likeness of a bear, and the stern had the picture of a man. We landed on the left side and camped a little below the mouth of a creek on the right side. A little below the mouth is an old village that is now abandoned; here the river is about one and a half miles wide and deep. The high hills that run in a northwest and southeast direction form both banks of the river; the shore is bold and rocky, and the hills rise gradually, covered with thick growths of pine. The valley from above the mouth of Quick Sand River to this place may be estimated at 60 miles wide in a direct line and extends a great distance to the right and left, richly covered with tall timber, with a few small prairies bordering the river and on the islands. There are a few standing ponds and several small streams of running water on either side of the river. This is certainly a fertile and beautiful valley, at this time crowded with Indians. The day was mostly cloudy with rain, and we are all wet, cold, and uncomfortable. I saw very little sign of frost in this valley, which we call Wap-pa-loo Columbia from the roots or plants growing spontaneously here. During my walk today, I saw 17 striped snakes. I killed a grouse that was very fat and larger than usual. This is the first night we've been entirely free of Indians since we arrived on the waters of the Columbia River. We traveled about 32 miles today by estimation.
[Clark, November 6, 1805]
November 6th Wednesday a cold wet morning. rain Contd. untill ____ oClock we Set out early & proceeded on the Corse of last night &c.
November 6th, Wednesday, a cold, wet morning. The rain continued until ____ o'clock. We set out early and followed the course from last night, etc.
[Clark, November 6, 1805]
November 6th Wednesday 1805 A cool wet raney morning we Set out early at 4 miles pass 2 Lodges of Indians in a Small bottom on the Lard Side I believe those Indians to be travelers. opposit is the head of a long narrow Island close under the Starboard Side, back of this Island two Creeks fall in about 6 miles apart, and appear to head in the high hilley countrey to the N. E. opposit this long Island is 2 others one Small and about the middle of the river. the other larger and nearly opposit its lower point, and opposit a high clift of Black rocks on the Lard. Side at 14 miles: here the Indians of the 2 Lodges we passed to day came in their canoes with Sundery articles to Sell, we purchased of them Wap-pa-too roots, Salmon trout, and I purchased 2 beaver Skins for which I gave 5 Small fish hooks. here the hills leave the river on the Lard. Side, a butifull open and extensive bottom in which there is an old Village, one also on the Stard. Side a little above both of which are abandened by all their inhabitents except Two Small dogs nearly Starved, and an unreasonable portion of flees—The Hills and mountains are covered with Sever kinds of Pine-Arber Vitea or white Cedar, red Loril, alder and Several Species of under groth, the bottoms have common rushes, nettles, & grass the Slashey parts have Bull rushes & flags—Some willow on the waters edge, passed an Island 3 miles long and one mile wide, close under the Stard. Side below the long narrow Island below which the Stard Hills are verry from the river bank and Continues high and rugid on that Side all day, we over took two Canoes of Indians going down to trade one of the Indians Spoke a fiew words of english and Said that the principal man who traded with them was Mr. Haley, and that he had a woman in his Canoe who Mr. Haley was fond of &c. he Showed us a Bow of Iron and Several other things which he Said Mr. Haley gave him. we came too to Dine on the long narrow Island found the woods So thick with under groth that the hunters could not get any distance into the Isld. the red wood, and Green bryors interwoven, and mixed with pine, alder, a Specis of Beech, ash &c. we killed nothing to day The Indians leave us in the evening, river about one mile wide hills high and Steep on the Std. no place for Several Miles suffcently large and leavil for our camp we at length Landed at a place which by moveing the Stones we made a place Sufficently large for the party to lie leavil on the Smaller Stones Clear of the Tide Cloudy with rain all day we are all wet and disagreeable, had large fires made on the Stone and dried our bedding and Kill the flees, which collected in our blankets at every old village we encamped near I had like to have forgotten a verry remarkable Knob riseing from the edge of the water to about 80 feet high, and about 200 paces around at its Base and Situated on the long narrow Island above and nearly opposit to the 2 Lodges we passed to day, it is Some distance from the high land & in a low part of the Island
November 6th, Wednesday, 1805 A cool, rainy morning. We set out early at 4. We passed two lodges of Indians in a small valley on the left side. I think these Indians are travelers. Across from us is the start of a long, narrow island, close to the right side. Behind this island, two creeks flow in about 6 miles apart, and they seem to originate in the hilly terrain to the northeast. Opposite this long island are two others: one small one in the middle of the river and a larger one nearly opposite its lower end, across from a high cliff of black rocks on the left side. At 14 miles, the Indians from the two lodges we passed today came in their canoes with various items for sale. We bought wapatoo roots, salmon trout, and I purchased two beaver skins, giving away 5 small fish hooks for them. Here, the hills move away from the river on the left side, revealing a beautiful open space and an old village. There is another village on the right side a little further up, both of which have been abandoned by all their inhabitants except for two small dogs that are nearly starved and an unreasonable number of fleas. The hills and mountains are covered with several kinds of pine, arborvitae or white cedar, red laurel, alder, and various undergrowth species. The bottoms have common rushes, nettles, and grass; the marshy areas have bulrushes and flags. Some willows are growing by the water's edge. We passed an island that is 3 miles long and one mile wide, right next to the right side below the long narrow island. Below this, the right hills are very steep from the riverbank and remain high and rugged on that side all day. We overtook two canoes of Indians heading down to trade. One of the Indians spoke a few words of English and said that the main trader with them was Mr. Haley, and that he had a woman in his canoe that Mr. Haley liked. He showed us a bow made of iron and several other things, which he said Mr. Haley gave him. We stopped to dine on the long narrow island and found the woods so thick with undergrowth that the hunters couldn’t get far into the island. The redwood and green briars were interwoven and mixed with pine, alder, a species of beech, and ash. We didn’t kill anything today. The Indians left us in the evening. The river is about one mile wide, with high, steep hills on the right side. There’s no place for several miles large enough and flat for our camp. We finally landed at a spot where by moving some stones we made an area large enough for the party to lie level on the smaller stones, clear of the tide. It was cloudy with rain all day, and we are all wet and uncomfortable. Large fires were made on the stones to dry our bedding and kill the fleas that gathered in our blankets at every old village we camped near. I almost forgot to mention a very remarkable knob rising from the water's edge to about 80 feet high, and about 200 paces around its base, situated on the long narrow island above and nearly opposite to the two lodges we passed today. It is some distance from the high ground and located in a low part of the island.
[Clark, November 7, 1805]
November 7th Thursday 1805 a Cloudy fogey morning, a little rain. Set out at 8 oClock proceeded on
November 7th Thursday 1805 a cloudy, foggy morning with light rain. We set out at 8 o'clock and continued on.
The womens peticoat is about 15 Inches long made of arber vita or the white Cedar bark wove to a String and hanging down in tossles and tied So as to cover from their hips as low as the peticoat will reach and only Covers them when Standing, as in any other position the Tosels Seperate. Those people Sold us otter Skins for fish hooks of which they wer fond
The women's petticoat is about 15 inches long, made of arborvitae or white cedar bark woven to a string and hanging down in tassels, tied to cover from their hips down to the length of the petticoat. It only covers them when standing, as in any other position the tassels separate. Those people sold us otter skins for fish hooks, which they were fond of.
We delayed 11/2 hour & Set out the tide being up in & the river So Cut with Islands we got an Indian to pilot us into the main chanel one of our Canoes Seperated from us this morning in the fog—great numbers of water fowls of every descriptn. common to this river
We were delayed for an hour and a half and set out with the tide coming in on the river. Because of the islands, we got an Indian to guide us into the main channel. One of our canoes got separated from us this morning in the fog—there were a lot of waterfowl of every kind common to this river.
[Clark, November 7, 1805]
November 7th Thursday 1805 A cloudy foggey morning Some rain. we Set out early proceeded under the Stard Shore under a high rugid hills with Steep assent the Shore boalt and rockey, the fog So thick we could not See across the river, two Canos of Indians met and returned with us to their village which is Situated on the Stard Side behind a cluster of Marshey Islands, on a narrow chanl. of the river through which we passed to the Village of 4 Houses, they gave us to eate Some fish, and Sold us, fish, Wap pa to roots three dogs and 2 otter Skins for which we gave fish hooks principally of which they were verry fond.
November 7th, Thursday, 1805 A cloudy, foggy morning with some rain. We set out early and continued along the starboard shore under rugged hills with steep ascents. The shore was steep and rocky, and the fog was so thick that we couldn't see across the river. Two canoes of Indians met us and returned with us to their village, which is located on the starboard side behind a cluster of marshy islands, through a narrow channel of the river. We passed through to the village of four houses, where they offered us some fish to eat and sold us fish, wapato roots, three dogs, and two otter skins in exchange for fish hooks, which they were very fond of.
Those people call themselves War-ci-a-cum and Speake a language different from the nativs above with whome they trade for the Wapato roots of which they make great use of as food. their houses differently built, raised entirely above ground eaves about 5 feet from the ground Supported and covered in the same way of those above, dotes about the Same size but in the Side of the house in one Corner, one fire place and that near the opposit end; around which they have their beads raised about 4 feet from the fore which is of earth, under their beads they Store away baskets of dried fish Berries & wappato, over the fire they hang the flesh as they take them and which they do not make immediate use. Their Canoes are of the Same form of those above. The Dress of the men differ verry little from those above, The womin altogether different, their robes are Smaller only Covering their Sholders & falling down to near the hip—and Sometimes when it is Cold a piec of fur curiously plated and connected So as to meet around the body from the arms to the hips The garment which occupies the waist and thence as low as the knee before and mid leg behind, cannot properly be called a petticoat, in the common acception of the word; it is a Tissue formed of white Cedar bark bruised or broken into Small Straps, which are interwoven in their center by means of Several cords of the Same materials which Serves as well for a girdle as to hold in place the Straps of bark which forms the tissue, and which Strans, Confined in the middle, hang with their ends pendulous from the waiste, the whole being of Suffcent thickness when the female Stands erect to conceal those parts useally covered from familiar view, but when she stoops or places herself in any other attitudes this battery of Venus is not altogether impervious to the penetrating eye of the amorite. This tissue is Sometims formed of little Strings of the Silk grass twisted and knoted at their ends &c. Those Indians are low and ill Shaped all flat heads
The people call themselves War-ci-a-cum and speak a language different from the natives above with whom they trade for wappato roots, which they use extensively as food. Their houses are built differently, raised entirely above the ground with eaves about 5 feet off the ground, supported and covered in a similar manner to those above. The structures are about the same size, but on the side of the house in one corner, there is one fireplace, typically near the opposite end. Around this fireplace, they have their beds raised about 4 feet from the floor, which is made of earth. Under their beds, they store baskets of dried fish, berries, and wappato. Over the fire, they hang the meat they don’t use immediately. Their canoes are shaped like those mentioned before. The men's clothing differs very little from those above, but the women's attire is entirely different; their robes are smaller, only covering their shoulders and falling down to near their hips. Sometimes, when it's cold, they wear a piece of fur artfully arranged and fastened to wrap around their bodies from the arms to the hips. The garment that covers the waist extends down to the knee in the front and to mid-leg in the back; it can't accurately be called a petticoat in the usual sense. It consists of a fabric made from white cedar bark that is crushed or broken into small strips, interwoven in the center by several cords made from the same material. These serve as both a girdle and a means to hold the bark strips in place. The strips, confined in the middle, hang down from the waist with their ends dangling. The whole garment is thick enough that when the woman stands upright, it conceals the parts typically kept private, but when she bends or adopts other positions, this cover isn’t entirely impervious to the gaze of an admirer. This fabric is sometimes made from small strings of silk grass twisted and knotted at the ends, etc. These Indians are short and have poor body shapes with flat heads.
after delaying at this village one hour and a half we Set out piloted by an Indian dressed in a Salors dress, to the main Chanel of the river, the tide being in we Should have found much dificuelty in passing into the main Chanel from behind those islands, without a pilot, a large marshey Island near the middle of the river near which Several Canoes Came allong Side with Skins, roots fish &c. to Sell, and had a temporey residence on this Island, here we See great numbers of water fowls about those marshey Islands; here the high mountanious Countrey approaches the river on the Lard Side, a high mountn. to the S W. about 20 miles, the high mountans. Countrey Continue on the Stard Side, about 14 miles below the last village and 18 miles of this day we landed at a village of the Same nation. This village is at the foot of the high hills on the Stard Side back OF 2 Small Islands it contains 7 indifferent houses built in the Same form of those above, here we purchased a Dog Some fish, wappato roots and I purchased 2 beaver Skins for the purpose of makeing me a roab, as the robe I have is rotten and good for nothing. opposit to this Village the high mountaneous Countrey leave the river on the Lard Side below which the river widens into a kind of Bay & is Crouded with low Islands Subject to be Covered by the tides—we proceeded on about 12 miles below the Village under a high mountaneous Countrey on the Stard. Side. Shore boald and rockey and Encamped under a high hill on the Stard. Side opposit to a rock Situated half a mile from the Shore, about 50 feet high and 20 feet Diamieter, we with dificuelty found a place Clear of the tide and Sufficiently large to lie on and the only place we could get was on round Stones on which we lay our mats rain Continud. moderately all day & Two Indians accompanied us from the last village, they we detected in Stealing a knife and returned, our Small Canoe which got Seperated in the fog this morning joined us this evening from a large Island Situated nearest the Lard Side below the high hills on that Side, the river being too wide to See either the form Shape or Size of the Islands on the Lard Side.
After staying in this village for an hour and a half, we set out, guided by an Indian dressed in sailor's clothes, toward the main channel of the river. With the tide in, we would have had a lot of trouble getting into the main channel from behind those islands without a pilot. There's a large marshy island near the center of the river, where several canoes came alongside with skins, roots, fish, etc., to sell, and they had a temporary settlement on this island. Here, we saw a great number of waterfowl around those marshy islands. The high mountainous region approaches the river on the left side, with a tall mountain to the southwest about 20 miles away. The mountainous area continues on the right side, about 14 miles below the last village. After traveling 18 miles today, we landed at a village of the same nation. This village is at the foot of the high hills on the right side, behind two small islands, and it contains seven modest houses built in the same style as those above. Here, we bought a dog, some fish, wappato roots, and I purchased two beaver skins to make myself a robe since the one I have is rotten and useless. Opposite this village, the high mountainous region leaves the river on the left side, below which the river widens into a kind of bay and is crowded with low islands that are covered by the tides. We proceeded on about 12 miles below the village, under a high mountainous region on the right side, with bold and rocky shores, and we camped under a high hill on the right side opposite a rock situated half a mile from the shore, about 50 feet high and 20 feet in diameter. We had a hard time finding a place clear of the tide and large enough to lie down, and the only spot we found was on round stones where we laid our mats as it rained moderately all day. Two Indians accompanied us from the last village, and we caught them trying to steal a knife, so they turned back. Our small canoe, which got separated in the fog this morning, rejoined us this evening from a large island closest to the left side below the high hills on that side, the river being too wide to see either the shape or size of the islands on the left side.
Great joy in camp we are in View of the Ocian, this great Pacific Octean which we been So long anxious to See. and the roreing or noise made by the waves brakeing on the rockey Shores (as I Suppose) may be heard distictly
Great joy in camp as we see the ocean, this vast Pacific Ocean that we've been eager to see for so long. The roaring noise made by the waves crashing on the rocky shores (or so I assume) can be heard clearly.
we made 34 miles to day as Computed
we traveled 34 miles today as calculated
[Clark, November 8, 1805]
Novr. 8th Friday 1805 a cloudy morning Some rain and wind we Changed our Clothes and Set out at 9 oClock proceeded on Close under the Stard. Side
Nov. 8th Friday 1805 a cloudy morning Some rain and wind we changed our clothes and set out at 9 o'clock proceeded on close under the starboard side
R. Fields Killed a goose & 2 Canvis back Ducks in this bay after Dinner we took the advantage of the returning tide & proceeded on to the 2d point, at which place we found the Swells too high to proceed we landed and drew our canoes up So as to let the tide leave them. The three Indians after Selling us 4 fish for which we gave Seven Small fishing hooks, and a piece of red Cloth. Some fine rain at intervales all this day. the Swells Continued high all the evening & we are Compelled to form an Encampment on a Point Scercely room Sufficent for us all to lie Clear of the tide water. hills high & with a Steep assent, river wide & at this place too Salt to be used for Drink. we are all wet and disagreeable, as we have been Continually for Severl. days past, we are at a loss & cannot find out if any Settlement is near the mouth of this river.
R. Fields killed a goose and 2 canvasback ducks in this bay. After dinner, we took advantage of the returning tide and made our way to the second point, where we found the swells too high to continue. We landed and pulled our canoes up to let the tide leave them. The three Indians sold us 4 fish for which we gave them seven small fishing hooks and a piece of red cloth. It drizzled lightly on and off all day. The swells remained high in the evening, and we had to set up camp on a point that barely had enough room for all of us to stay clear of the tidewater. The hills are steep, the river is wide, and the water here is too salty to drink. We are all wet and uncomfortable, just like we have been for several days now, and we’re unsure if there are any settlements near the mouth of this river.
The Swells were So high and the Canoes roled in Such a manner as to cause Several to be verry Sick. Reuben fields, Wiser McNeal & the Squar wer of the number
The waves were so high and the canoes rocked in such a way that several people became very sick. Reuben Fields, Wiser McNeal, and the square were among them.
[Clark, November 8, 1805]
November 8th Friday 1805 A Cloudy morning Some rain, we did not Set out untill 9 oClock, haveing Changed our Clothing—proceeded on Close under the Stard. Side, the hills high with Steep assent, Shore boald and rockey Several low Islands in a Deep bend or Bay to the Lard Side, river about 5 or 7 miles wide. three Indians in a Canoe overtook us, with Salmon to Sell, passed 2 old villages on the Stard. Side and at 3 miles entered a nitch of about 6 miles wide and 5 miles deep with Several Creeks makeing into the Stard Hills, this nitch we found verry Shallow water and Call it the Shallow nitch we came too at the remains of an old village at the bottom of this nitch and dined, here we Saw great numbers of fowl, Sent out 2 men and they killed a Goose and two Canves back Ducks here we found great numbers of Hees which we treated with the greatest caution and distance; after Diner the Indians left us and we took the advantage of a returning tide and proceeded on to the Second point on the Std. here we found the Swells or waves So high that we thought it imprudent to proceed; we landed unloaded and drew up our Canoes. Some rain all day at intervales; we are all wet and disagreeable, as we have been for Several days past, and our present Situation a verry disagreeable one in as much; as we have not leavel land Sufficient for an encampment and for our baggage to lie Cleare of the tide, the High hills jutting in So Close and Steep that we cannot retreat back, and the water of the river too Salt to be used, added to this the waves are increasing to Such a hight that we cannot move from this place, in this Situation we are compelled to form our Camp between the hite of the Ebb and flood tides, and rase our baggage on logs—We are not certain as yet if the whites people who trade with those people or from whome they precure ther goods are Stationary at the mouth, or visit this quarter at Stated times for the purpose of trafick &c. I believe the latter to be the most probable conjucture—The Seas roled and tossed the Canoes in Such a manner this evening that Several of our party were Sea Sick.
November 8th, Friday, 1805 A cloudy morning with some rain; we didn’t set out until 9 o’clock after changing our clothes. We proceeded on close to the starboard side. The hills were high with steep slopes, and the shore was bold and rocky. Several low islands appeared in a deep bend or bay on the larboard side, and the river was about 5 to 7 miles wide. Three Indians in a canoe caught up with us, bringing salmon to sell. We passed two old villages on the starboard side, and after 3 miles, we entered a niche about 6 miles wide and 5 miles deep, with several creeks flowing into the starboard hills. This niche had very shallow water, and we called it the Shallow Niche. We reached the remains of an old village at the bottom of this niche and had lunch there. We saw a great number of fowl, so we sent out two men, and they shot a goose and two canvasback ducks. Here, we found many geese, which we approached with great caution and distance. After lunch, the Indians left us, and we took advantage of the returning tide to proceed to the second point on the starboard side. However, we found the swells or waves so high that we deemed it imprudent to continue; we landed, unloaded, and pulled our canoes up. It rained all day on and off, leaving us all wet and uncomfortable, as we have been for several days. Our current situation is quite unpleasant since there isn’t enough flat land for a proper campsite, and our gear can't stay clear of the tide. The high hills jut in so close and steep that we can't retreat, and the river water is too salty to use. To make matters worse, the waves are getting higher, making it impossible to move from this spot. In this situation, we have to set up our camp between the high and low tides and raise our gear on logs. We’re not certain yet if the white traders who supply these people are stationed at the mouth of the river or if they visit this area at set times for trade. I believe the latter is more likely. The seas rolled and tossed the canoes this evening so much that several members of our party became seasick.
[Clark, November 9, 1805]
Novr. 9th Saturday 1805 The tide of last night obliged us to unload all the Canoes one of which Sunk before She was unloaded by the high waves or Swells which accompanied the returning tide, The others we unloaded, and 3 others was filled with water Soon after by the Swells or high Sees which broke against the Shore imediately where we lay, rained hard all the fore part of the day, the tide which rose untill 2 oClock P M to day brought with it Such emence Swells or waves, added to a hard wind from the South which Loosened the Drift trees which is verry thick on the Shores, and tossed them about in Such a manner, as to endanger our Canoes very much, with every exertion and the Strictest attention by the party was Scercely Suffient to defend our Canoes from being Crushed to pieces between those emensely large trees maney of them 200 feet long and 4 feet through. The tide of this day rose about ____ feet & 15 Inches higher than yesterday this is owing to the wind which Sets in from the ocian, we are Compelled to move our Camp from the water, as also the loading every man as wet all the last night and this day as the rain Could make them which Contind. all day. at 4 oClock the wind Shifted about to the S. W imediately from the ocian and blew a Storm for about 2 hours, raised the tide verry high all wet & cold Labiech killed 4 Ducks very fat & R. Fields Saw Elk Sign.
Nov. 9th, Saturday, 1805 The tide from last night forced us to unload all the canoes, one of which sank before we could unload it due to the high waves or swells that came with the returning tide. We managed to unload the others, but three more filled with water shortly after because of the swells or high seas crashing against the shore right where we were. It rained heavily for most of the day, and the tide rose until 2 PM today, bringing with it enormous swells or waves, combined with a strong wind from the south that loosened the driftwood thick along the shores, tossing them around enough to seriously threaten our canoes. Despite everyone's efforts and the strictest attention from the team, it was barely enough to protect our canoes from being crushed between those massive trees, many of which were 200 feet long and 4 feet wide. The tide today rose about ____ feet and 15 inches higher than yesterday, which is due to the wind blowing in from the ocean. We had to move our camp further from the water, as everyone was soaked all night and throughout the day from the rain that continued all day. At 4 PM, the wind shifted to the southwest, right off the ocean, blowing a storm for about two hours and raising the tide very high. Everyone was wet and cold, and Labiech shot 4 very fat ducks, while R. Fields spotted elk signs.
not withstanding the disagreeable time of the party for Several days past they are all Chearfull and full of anxiety to See further into the ocian. the water is too Salt to Drink, we use rain water. The Salt water has acted on some of the party already as a Pergitive. rain continus.
notwithstanding the unpleasant time of the party for several days now, they are all cheerful and eager to see more of the ocean. the water is too salty to drink, so we use rainwater. the saltwater has already acted as a laxative on some of the party. rain continues.
[Clark, November 9, 1805]
November 9th Saturday 1805 The tide of last night did not rise Sufficintly high to come into our camp, but the Canoes which was exposed to the mercy of the waves &c. which accompanied the returning tide, they all filled, and with great attention we Saved them untill the tide left them dry—wind Hard from the South and rained hard all the fore part of the day, at 2 oClock P M the flood tide came in accompanied with emence waves and heavy winds, floated the trees and Drift which was on the point on which we Camped and tosed them about in Such a manner as to endanger the Canoes verry much, with every exertion and the Strictest attention by every individual of the party was Scercely Sufficient to Save our Canoes from being crushed by those monsterous trees maney of them nearly 200 feet long and from 4 to 7 feet through. our camp entirely under water dureing the hight of the tide, every man as wet as water could make them all the last night and to day all day as the rain Continued all day, at 4 oClock P M the wind Shifted about to the S. W. and blew with great violence imediately from the Ocian for about two hours, notwithstanding the disagreeable Situation of our party all wet and Cold (and one which they have experienced for Several days past) they are chearfull and anxious to See further into the Ocian, The water of the river being too Salt to use we are obliged to make use of rain water—Some of the party not accustomed to Salt water has made too free a use of it on them it acts as a pergitive.
November 9th, Saturday, 1805. The tide from last night didn't rise high enough to reach our camp, but the canoes that were left exposed to the waves from the returning tide filled up with water. We carefully saved them until the tide went down and left them dry. The wind was strong from the south, and it rained heavily all morning. At 2 PM, the flood tide came in with massive waves and strong winds, floating the trees and debris on the point where we camped and tossing them around in a way that threatened our canoes a lot. Everyone in the group put in a lot of effort and stayed super focused, but it was barely enough to keep our canoes safe from those enormous trees, many of which were nearly 200 feet long and 4 to 7 feet wide. Our camp was completely underwater during the highest point of the tide, and every man was soaked through from the water all night and all day since the rain continued. At 4 PM, the wind shifted to the southwest and blew fiercely straight from the ocean for about two hours. Despite the uncomfortable situation of everyone being wet and cold, which they’ve been dealing with for several days, they remained cheerful and eager to see more of the ocean. Because the river water was too salty to drink, we had to use rainwater. Some people in the group, who weren't used to salty water, overdid it and ended up with stomach issues.
at this dismal point we must Spend another night as the wind & waves are too high to proceed.
At this dreary moment, we have to spend another night here since the wind and waves are too strong to move forward.
[Clark, November 10, 1805]
November 10th Sunday 1805 rained verry hard the greater part of the last night & Continus this morning, the wind has layed and the Swells are fallen. we loaded our Canoes and proceeded on, passed a Deep Bay on the Stard. Side I Call ____ The wind rose from the N W. and the Swells became So high, we were Compelled to return about 2 miles to a place where we Could unld. our Canoes, which was in a Small Bay on Driftwood, on which we had also to make our fires to dry our Selves as well as we could the Shore being either a Clift of Purpendicular rocks or Steep assents to the hight of 4 or 500 feet, we continued on this drift wood untill about 3 oClock when the evening appearing favourable we loaded & Set out in hopes to turn the Point below and get into a better harber, but finding the waves & Swells continue to rage with great fury below, we got a Safe place for our Stores & a much beter one for the Canoes to lie and formed a Campment on Drift logs in the Same little Bay under a high hill at the enterence of a Small drean which we found verry convt. on account of its water, as that of the river is Brackish—The logs on which we lie is all on flote every high tide—The rain Continud all day—we are all wet, also our beding and many other articles. we are all employed untill late drying our bedding. nothing to eate but Pounded fish
November 10th, Sunday, 1805. It rained very hard for most of the night and continues this morning. The wind has calmed down and the swells have subsided. We loaded our canoes and moved on, passing a deep bay on the starboard side that I named ____. The wind picked up from the northwest, and the swells got so high that we had to turn back about 2 miles to a spot where we could unload our canoes. This was in a small bay with driftwood, where we also had to make our fires to dry ourselves as best as we could, since the shore was either a cliff of perpendicular rocks or steep ascents rising to about 400 or 500 feet. We stayed on this driftwood until around 3 o'clock when the evening looked more promising. We loaded up and set out hoping to round the point below and find a better harbor, but the waves and swells continued to rage fiercely. We found a safe spot for our supplies and a much better place for the canoes, and we set up camp on drift logs in the same little bay at the entrance of a small stream, which we found very convenient for its water since the river's water is brackish. The logs we are lying on float away with every high tide. The rain continued all day, leaving us all soaked, along with our bedding and many other items. We spent most of the afternoon drying our bedding. We have nothing to eat but pounded fish.
[Clark, November 10, 1805]
November 10th Sunday 1805 Rained verry hard the greater part of last night and continues this morning. the wind has luled and the waves are not high; we loaded our canoes and proceeded on passed Several Small and deep nitch on the Stard. Side, we proceeded on about 10 miles Saw great numbers of Sea Guls, the wind rose from the N. W. and the waves became So high that we were compelled to return about 2 miles to a place we Could unload our Canoes, which we did in a Small nitch at the mouth of a Small run on a pile of drift logs where we Continued untill low water, when the river appeared calm we loaded and Set out; but was obliged to return finding the waves too high for our Canoes to ride, we again unloaded the Canoes, and Stoed the loading on a rock above the tide water, and formed a camp on the Drift Logs which appeared to be the only Situation we could find to lie, the hills being either a perpendicular Clift, or Steep assent, riseing to about 500 feet—our Canoes we Secured as well as we could—we are all wet the rain haveing continued all day, our beding and maney other articles, employ our Selves drying our blankets- nothing to eate but dried fish pounded which we brought from the falls. we made 10 miles today
November 10th, Sunday, 1805 It rained very hard for most of last night and continues this morning. The wind has calmed down and the waves aren't high. We loaded our canoes and continued on, passing several small and deep niches on the starboard side. We traveled about 10 miles and saw a lot of seagulls. Then the wind picked up from the northwest, and the waves got so high that we had to turn back about 2 miles to find a place where we could unload our canoes. We did so in a small nook at the mouth of a small stream on a pile of drift logs, where we stayed until low tide, when the river looked calm. We loaded up and set out, but had to turn back again because the waves were too high for our canoes. We unloaded again and stored our gear on a rock above the tide line and set up camp on the drift logs, which was the only spot we could find to lie down. The hills around us were either straight cliffs or steep inclines rising about 500 feet. We secured our canoes as best as we could, and we’re all wet since the rain has continued all day. Our bedding and many other items are soaked, so we’re spending time drying our blankets. The only food we have is dried fish that we pounded, which we brought from the falls. We covered 10 miles today.
[Clark, November 11, 1805]
November 11th Monday 1805 a hard rain all the last night we again get wet the rain continue at intervals all day. Wind verry high from S W and blew a Storm all day Sent out Jo. Fields & Collins to hunt. at 12 oClock at a time the wind was verry high and waves tremendeous five Indians Came down in a Canoe loaded with fish of Salmon Spes. Called Red Charr, we purchased of those Indians 13 of these fish, for which we gave, fishing hooks & some trifling things, we had Seen those Indians at a village behind Some marshey Islands a few days ago. they are on their way to trade those fish with white people which they make Signs live below round a point, those people are badly Clad, one is dressd. in an old Salors Jacket & Trouses, the others Elk Skin robes. we are truly unfortunate to be Compelled to lie 4 days nearly in the Same place at a time that our day are precious to us, The Wind Shifted to ____ the Indians left us and Crossed the river which is about 5 miles wide through the highest Sees I ever Saw a Small vestle ride, their Canoe is Small, maney times they were out of Sight before the were 2 miles off Certain it is they are the best canoe navigators I ever Saw The tide was 3 hours later to day than yesterday and rose much higher, the trees we camped on was all on flote for about 2 hours from 3 untill 5 oClock P M, the great quantities of rain which has fallen losenes the Stones on the Side of the hill & the Small ones fall on us, our Situation is truly a disagreeable one our Canoes in one place at the mercy of the waves our baggage in another and our Selves & party Scattered on drift trees of emense Sizes, & are on what dry land they can find in the Crevices of the rocks & hill Sides
November 11th, Monday, 1805: It rained heavily all night, and we got wet again. The rain continued throughout the day, coming in waves. The wind was very strong from the southwest and blew like a storm all day. I sent Jo, Fields, and Collins out to hunt. At noon, when the wind was at its highest and the waves were enormous, five Indians came down in a canoe loaded with salmon, called Red Charr. We bought 13 of these fish from them in exchange for fishing hooks and a few trivial items. We had seen these Indians a few days ago at a village behind some marshy islands. They're on their way to trade these fish with white people, indicating they live beyond a point. Those people are poorly dressed; one was wearing an old sailor's jacket and trousers, while the others wore elk skin robes. We're truly unfortunate to be stuck in the same spot for four days when our time is so precious. The wind shifted, and the Indians left us, crossing the river, which is about five miles wide, through the highest waves I've ever seen. Their canoe is small, and often they were out of sight before they were two miles away. It's clear they're the best canoe navigators I've ever seen. The tide rose three hours later today than yesterday and was much higher. The trees we camped on were floating for about two hours, from 3 to 5 PM. The heavy rain has loosened the stones on the hillside, causing small ones to fall on us. Our situation is genuinely uncomfortable; our canoes are in one place at the mercy of the waves, our baggage is in another, and we and our party are scattered on huge driftwood trees, trying to find any dry land we can in the crevices of the rocks and hillsides.
[Clark, November 11, 1805]
November 11th Monday 1805 A hard rain all the last night, dureing the last tide the logs on which we lay was all on float Sent out Jo Fields to hunt, he Soon returned and informed us that the hills was So high & Steep, & thick with undergroth and fallen Timber that he could not get out any distance; about 12 oClock 5 Indians came down in a canoe, the wind verry high from the S. W. with most tremendious waves brakeing with great violence against the Shores, rain falling in torrents, we are all wet as usial and our Situation is truly a disagreeable one; the great quantites of rain which has loosened the Stones on the hill Sides, and the Small Stones fall down upon us, our canoes at one place at the mercy of the waves, our baggage in another and our Selves and party Scattered on floating logs and Such dry Spots as can be found on the hill Sides, and Crivices of the rocks. we purchased of the Indians 13 red chary which we found to be an excellent fish we have Seen those Indians above and are of a nation who reside above and on the opposit Side who call themselves Call-har-ma they are badly clad & illy made, Small and Speak a language much resembling the last nation, one of those men had on a Salors Jacket and Pantiloons and made Signs that he got those Clothes from the white people who lived below the point &c. those people left us and Crossed the river (which is about 5 miles wide at this place) through the highest waves I ever Saw a Small vestles ride. Those Indians are Certainly the best Canoe navigaters I ever Saw. rained all (lay
November 11th, Monday, 1805. It rained heavily all night, and during the last tide, the logs we were lying on were floating. I sent Jo Fields out to hunt, but he quickly came back and told us that the hills were too high and steep, thick with underbrush and fallen timber, so he couldn't get very far. Around noon, five Indians came down in a canoe; the wind was really strong from the southwest, with huge waves crashing violently against the shores, and rain pouring down. We were all as wet as usual, and our situation was truly unpleasant. The massive amounts of rain had loosened the stones on the hillside, causing small stones to fall down on us. Our canoes were at one spot at the mercy of the waves, our belongings in another, and we ourselves, along with our group, were scattered on floating logs and the few dry spots we could find on the hillsides and in the crevices of the rocks. We bought 13 red charr from the Indians, which turned out to be excellent fish. We had seen those Indians earlier, and they belong to a tribe that lives upstream and on the opposite side; they call themselves Call-har-ma. They were poorly dressed and made, small in stature, and spoke a language very similar to the last group. One of those men was wearing a sailor's jacket and pants and indicated that he got those clothes from the white people who lived downstream. Those people left us and crossed the river, which is about five miles wide at this point, through the highest waves I had ever seen a small vessel navigate. Those Indians are definitely the best canoe navigators I've ever seen. It rained all day.
[Clark, November 12, 1805]
November 12th Tuesday 1805 a tremendious thunder Storm abt. 3 oClock this morning accompanied by wind from the S W. and Hail, this Storm of hard Clap's thunder Lighting and hail untill about 6 oClock at intervals it then became light for a Short time when the heavens became darkined by a black Cloud from the S, W, & a hard rain Suckceeded which lasted untill 12 oClock with a hard wind which raised the Seas tremendiously high braking with great force and fury against the rocks & trees on which we lie, as our Situation became Seriously dangerous, we took the advantage of a low tide & moved our Camp around a point a Short distance to a Small wet bottom at the mouth of a Small Creek, which we had not observed when we first Came to this Cove, from its being very thick and obscured by drift trees & thick bushes, Send out men to hunt they found the woods So thick with Pine & timber and under Broth that they could not get through, Saw Some Elk tracks, I walked up this creek & killed 2 Salmon trout, the men killd. 13 of the Salmon Species, The Pine of fur Specs, or Spruc Pine grow here to an emense Size & hight maney of them 7 & 8 feet through and upwards of 200 feet high. It would be distressing to a feeling person to See our Situation at this time all wet and cold with our bedding &c. also wet, in a Cove Scercely large nough to Contain us, our Baggage in a Small holler about 1/2 a mile from us, and Canoes at the mercy of the waves & drift wood, we have Scured them as well as it is possible by Sinking and wateing them down with Stones to prevent the emence waves dashing them to pices against the rocks—one got loose last night & was left on a rock by the tide Some distance below without recving much damage. fortunately for us our Men are helthy. It was clear at 12 for a Short time. I observed the Mountains on the opposit Side was covered with Snowour party has been wet for 8 days and is truly disagreeable, their robes & leather Clothes are rotten from being Continually wet, and they are not in a Situation to get others, and we are not in a Situation to restore them—I observe great numbers of Sea guls, flying in every derection—Three men Gibson Bratten & Willard attempted to decend in a Canoe built in the Indian fashion and abt. the Size of the one the Indians visited us in yesterday, they Could not proceed, as the waves tossed them about at will, they returned after proceeding about 1 mile—we got our Selves tolerable Comfortable by drying our Selves & bedding Cought 3 salmon this evining in a Small branch above about 1 mile
November 12th, Tuesday, 1805. A tremendous thunderstorm hit around 3 o'clock this morning, accompanied by winds from the southwest and hail. This storm had loud claps of thunder, lightning, and hail until about 6 o'clock, with some intervals. It then lightened for a short time, but the sky darkened with a black cloud from the southwest, followed by heavy rain that lasted until 12 o'clock, with strong winds that raised the seas tremendously high, crashing violently against the rocks and trees around us. As our situation became seriously dangerous, we took advantage of a low tide and moved our camp around a point a short distance to a small wet area at the mouth of a small creek, which we hadn't noticed when we first arrived at this cove because it was obscured by driftwood and thick bushes. We sent out men to hunt, but they found the woods so thick with pine, timber, and underbrush that they could barely get through. They saw some elk tracks. I walked up this creek and caught 2 salmon trout, and the men caught 13 salmon. The spruce and fir trees here grow to an immense size and height, many being 7 to 8 feet wide and over 200 feet tall. It would be distressing for anyone sensitive to see our situation at this time—all wet and cold, with our bedding and supplies also soaked, in a cove barely large enough to contain us, our baggage half a mile away, and our canoes at the mercy of the waves and driftwood. We secured them as best we could by sinking and weighting them down with stones to prevent the massive waves from smashing them against the rocks—one got loose last night and was left on a rock by the tide some distance away without receiving much damage. Fortunately for us, our men are healthy. It was clear at noon for a short while, and I noticed the mountains on the opposite side were covered in snow. Our party has been wet for 8 days, which is truly unpleasant. Their robes and leather clothes have deteriorated from being continuously wet, and they cannot obtain others, nor can we fix them. I noticed a large number of seagulls flying in every direction. Three men—Gibson, Bratten, and Willard—attempted to descend in a canoe built in the Indian style, about the size of the one the Indians visited us in yesterday. They couldn't proceed as the waves tossed them about at will, and they returned after going about a mile. We made ourselves relatively comfortable by drying off and our bedding. We caught 3 salmon this evening in a small branch about a mile up.
[Clark, November 12, 1805]
November 12th Tuesday 1805 A Tremendious wind from the S. W. about 3 oClock this morning with Lightineng and hard claps of Thunder, and Hail which Continued untill 6 oClock a.m. when it became light for a Short time, then the heavens became Sudenly darkened by a black Cloud from the S. W. and rained with great violence untill 12 oClock, the waves tremendious brakeing with great fury against the rocks and trees on which we were encamped. our Situation is dangerous. we took the advantage of a low tide and moved our camp around a point to a Small wet bottom at the mouth of a Brook, which we had not observed when we Came to this cove; from it being verry thick and obscured by drift trees and thick bushes It would be distressing to See our Situation, all wet and Colde our bedding also wet, (and the robes of the party which Compose half the bedding is rotten and we are not in a Situation to supply their places) in a wet bottom Scercely large enough to contain us, our baggage half a mile from us and Canoes at the mercy of the waves, altho Secured as well as possible, Sunk with emence parcels of Stone to wate them down to prevent their dashing to pieces against the rocks; one got loose last night and was left on a rock a Short distance below, without rciving more daminage than a Split in her bottom—Fortunately for us our men are healthy. 3 men Gibson Bratten & Willard attempted to go aroud the point below in our Indian Canoe, much Such a canoe as the Indians visited us in yesterday, they proceeded to the point from which they were oblige to return, the waves tossing them about at will I walked up the branch and giged 3 Salmon trout. the party killed 13 Salmon to day in a branch about 2 miles above. rain Continued
November 12th, Tuesday, 1805 A tremendous wind from the southwest around 3 o'clock this morning, with lightning and hard claps of thunder, and hail, which continued until 6 a.m. Then it lightened for a short time, but suddenly the sky darkened with a black cloud from the southwest, and it poured rain violently until noon. The waves were tremendous, crashing furiously against the rocks and trees where we had set up camp. Our situation is dangerous. We took advantage of a low tide and moved our camp around a point to a small wet area at the mouth of a brook that we hadn’t noticed when we arrived at this cove; the view was obscured by driftwood and thick bushes. It’s distressing to see our situation: all wet and cold, our bedding is also soaked, and the robes of the party—making up half the bedding—are rotten, and we can’t supply replacements. We’re in a wet area barely large enough for us, our baggage half a mile away, and the canoes at the mercy of the waves, although we’ve secured them as best as possible. They’re sunk with heavy stones to weigh them down and prevent damage against the rocks; one got loose last night and was left on a rock a short distance below, suffering only a split in the bottom. Fortunately, our men are healthy. Three men—Gibson, Bratten, and Willard—tried to go around the point below in our Indian canoe, similar to the one the Indians used to visit us yesterday. They reached the point but had to turn back due to the waves tossing them around at will. I walked up the branch and caught three salmon trout. The party killed 13 salmon today in a branch about two miles upstream. The rain continued.
[Clark, November 13, 1805]
November 13th Wednesday 1805 Some intervales of fair weather last night, rain and wind Continue this morning, as we are in a Cove & the Mountains verry high & Pine Spruce verry high & thick Cannot deturmine the procise course of the winds. I walked to the top of the first part of the mountain with much fatigue as the distance was about 3 miles thro intolerable thickets of Small Pine, arrow wood a groth much resembling arrow wood with briers, growing to 10 & 15 feet high interlocking with each other & Furn, aded to this difficulty the hill was So Steep that I was obliged to drawing my Self up in many places by the bowers, the Countrey Continues thick and hilley as far back a I could See. Some Elk Sign, rained all day moderately. I am wet &c. &c. The Hail which fell 2 night past is yet to be Seen on the mountain on which I was to day. I Saw a Small red Berry which grows on a Stem of about 6 or 8 Inches from the Ground, in bunches and in great quantity on the Mountains, the taste insiped. I saw a number of verry large Spruce Pine one of which I measured 14 feet around and verry tall. My principal objects in assdg. this mountain was to view the river below, the weather being So Cloudey & thick that I could not See any distance down, discovered the wind high from the N. W. and waves high at a Short distance below our Encampment, (Squar displeased with me for not sin &c &c. Wap-lo a excellent root which is rosted and tastes like a potato I Cut my hand despatched 3 men in a Indian canoe (which is calculated to ride high Swells) down to examine if they can find the Bay at the mouth & good barbers below for us to proceed in Safty. The fides at every Hud come in with great Swells & Breake against the rocks & Drift trees with great fury—the rain Continue all the evening nothing to eate but Pounded fish which we have as a reserve See Store, and what Pore fish we can kill up the branch on which we are encamped our canoe and the three men did not return this evening—if we were to have cold weather to accompany the rain which we have had for this 6 or 8 days passed we must eneviatilbly Suffer verry much as Clothes are Scerce with us.
November 13th, Wednesday, 1805 Some periods of decent weather last night, but rain and wind continue this morning since we’re in a cove and the mountains are really tall, with thick pine and spruce trees. I can’t determine the exact direction of the winds. I walked to the top of the first part of the mountain, which was very tiring, as the distance was about 3 miles through unbearable thickets of small pine, something like arrowwood, with briars growing to 10 and 15 feet high, interlocking with each other along with ferns. To add to the difficulty, the hill was so steep that I had to pull myself up in many places using the branches. The country remains dense and hilly as far back as I could see. I saw some elk tracks, and it rained moderately all day. I'm wet, etc. The hail that fell two nights ago is still visible on the mountain I was on today. I spotted a small red berry that grows on a stem about 6 or 8 inches from the ground, in clusters, and very abundant on the mountains, with a bland taste. I saw several very large spruce pines, one of which I measured at 14 feet around and very tall. My main goals in climbing this mountain were to see the river below, but the weather was so cloudy and thick that I couldn’t see any distance down. I noticed the wind was strong from the northwest, and the waves were high at a short distance below our campsite. (Squar is displeased with me for not signing, etc.) Wap-lo is an excellent root that, when roasted, tastes like a potato. I cut my hand and sent three men in an Indian canoe (designed to ride high swells) down to see if they could find the bay at the mouth and good places below for us to proceed safely. The tides at every turn come in with great swells and crash against the rocks and driftwood with great force—the rain continued all evening with nothing to eat except the pounded fish we have in reserve, and whatever poor fish we can catch in the branch where we're camped. Our canoe and the three men did not return this evening. If we were to have cold weather along with the rain we’ve had for the past 6 or 8 days, we will undoubtedly suffer a lot since clothes are scarce for us.
[Clark, November 13, 1805]
November 13th Wednesday 1805 Some intervales of fair weather last night, rain continue this morning. I walked up the Brook & assended the first Spur of the mountain with much fatigue, the distance about 3 miles, through an intolerable thickets of Small pine, a groth much resembling arrow wood on the Stem of which there is thorns; this groth about 12 or 15 feet high inter lockd into each other and Scattered over the high fern & fallen timber, added to this the hills were So Steep that I was compelled to draw my Self up by the assistance of those bushes—The Timber on those hills are of the pine Species large and tall maney of them more than 200 feet high & from 8 to 10 feet through at the Stump those hills & as far back as I could See, I Saw Some Elk Sign, on the Spur of the mountain tho not fresh. I killed a Salmon trout on my return. The Hail which fell 2 nights past is yet to be Seen on the mountains; I Saw in my ramble to day a red berry resembling Solomons Seal berry which the nativs call Sol-me and use it to eate. my principal object in assending this mountain was to view the countrey below, the rain continuing and weather proved So Cloudy that I could not See any distance on my return we dispatched 3 men Colter, Willard and Shannon in the Indian canoe to get around the point if possible and examine the river, and the Bay below for a god barber for our Canoes to lie in Safty &c. The tide at every floot tide Came with great swells brakeing against the rocks & Drift trees with great fury The rain Continue all day. nothing to eate but pounded fish which we Keep as a reserve and use in Situations of this kind.
November 13th, Wednesday, 1805 Some periods of fair weather last night, but rain continues this morning. I walked up the brook and climbed the first ridge of the mountain with a lot of effort, covering about 3 miles through a frustrating tangle of small pine, a growth similar to arrowwood with thorns on the stems; this growth is about 12 or 15 feet high, interlocked with each other and scattered over high ferns and fallen timber. On top of that, the hills were so steep that I had to pull myself up using those bushes. The timber on these hills is mostly large, tall pine, many over 200 feet high and 8 to 10 feet wide at the base. As far back as I could see, I noticed some elk tracks on the ridge of the mountain, though they weren’t fresh. I caught a salmon trout on my way back. The hail that fell two nights ago is still visible on the mountains. During my exploration today, I saw a red berry that looks like Solomon's Seal berry, which the natives call Sol-me and eat. My main goal in climbing this mountain was to get a view of the country below, but with the rain continuing and the weather being so cloudy, I couldn’t see far. On my return, we sent three men—Colter, Willard, and Shannon—in the Indian canoe around the point to check the river and the bay below for a good spot for our canoes to be safely anchored. The tide at every flood came in with great swells, crashing against the rocks and driftwood with ferocity. The rain continued all day. The only thing to eat was pounded fish, which we keep as a reserve for situations like this.
[Clark, November 14, 1805]
Novr. 14th Thursday 1805 Rained last night without intermission and this morning the wind blew hard from the ____ We Could not move, one Canoe was broken last night against the rocks, by the waves dashing her against them in high tide about 10 oClock 5 Indians Come up in a Canoe thro emence waves & Swells, they landed and informed us they Saw the 3 men we Sent down yesterday, at Some distance below Soon after those people Came Colter one of the 3 men returned and informed us that he had proceeded with his Canoe as far as they Could, for the waves and Could find no white people, or Bay, he Saw a good Canoe barber & 2 Camps of Indians at no great distance below and that those with us had taken his gig & knife &c. which he forcably took from them & they left us, after our treating them well. The rain Continue all day all wet as usial, killed only 2 fish to day for the whole Party, at 3 oClock Capt. Lewis Drewyer Jo. & R. Fields & Frasure Set out down on the Shore to examine if any white men were below within our reach, they took a empty Canoe & 5 men to Set them around the Point on a Gravelley Beech which Colter informed was at no great distance below. The Canoe returned at dusk half full of water, from the waves which dashed over in passing the point Capt Lewis is object is also to find a Small Bay as laid down by Vancouver just out of the mouth of the Columbia River. rained as usial all the evening, all wet and disagreeable Situated
November 14th, Thursday, 1805 It rained all night without stopping, and this morning the wind was blowing hard from the ____. We couldn't move; one canoe broke last night against the rocks when the waves crashed into it during high tide. Around 10 o'clock, five Indians arrived in a canoe through the huge waves and swells. They landed and told us they saw the three men we sent down yesterday at some distance below. Soon after, one of those men, Colter, returned and reported that he had gone as far as they could with their canoe, but because of the waves, they couldn’t find any white people or a bay. He did see a good canoe and two camps of Indians not far below, and those with us had taken his gig, knife, etc., which he forcibly retrieved from them before they left, after we treated them well. The rain continued all day, and we were as wet as usual. We only caught two fish today for the whole party. At 3 o'clock, Capt. Lewis, Drewyer, Jo., R. Fields, and Frasure set out along the shore to see if there were any white men below that we could reach. They took an empty canoe and five men to take them around the point to a gravelly beach that Colter said was not far below. The canoe returned at dusk half full of water from the waves that splashed over it while passing the point. Capt. Lewis also aimed to find a small bay as indicated by Vancouver just outside the mouth of the Columbia River. It rained as usual all evening, and we were all wet and in an uncomfortable situation.
[Clark, November 14, 1805]
November 14th Thursday 1805 rained all the last night without intermition, and this morning. wind blows verry hard but our Situation is Such that we Cannot tell from what point it comes—one of our Canoes is much broken by the waves dashing it against the rocks—5 Indians Came up in a Canoe, thro the waves, which is verry high and role with great fury—They made Signs to us that they Saw the 3 men we Sent down yesterday. only 3 of those Indians landed, the other 2 which was women played off in the waves, which induced me to Suspect that they had taken Something from our men below, at this time one of the men Colter returnd by land and informed us that those Indians had taken his Gigg & basket, I called to the Squars to land and give back the gigg, which they would not doe untill a man run with a gun, as if he intended to Shute them when they landed, and Colter got his gig & basket I then ordered those fellows off, and they verry readily Cleared out they are of the War-ci-a-cum N. Colter informed us that "it was but a Short distance from where we lay around the point to a butifull Sand beech, which continud for a long ways, that he had found a good harber in the mouth of a creek near 2 Indian Lodgesthat he had proceeded in the Canoe as far as he could for the waves, the other two men Willard & Shannon had proceeded on down"
November 14th, Thursday, 1805: It rained all night without stopping and continued this morning. The wind is blowing very hard, but we can't tell from which direction. One of our canoes is badly damaged from the waves crashing against the rocks. Five Indians came up in a canoe through the high, violent waves. They signaled to us that they saw the three men we sent down yesterday. Only three of the Indians landed; the other two, who were women, stayed in the waves, which made me suspect they had taken something from our men below. At this time, one of the men, Colter, returned by land and informed us that those Indians had taken his gig and basket. I called out to the women to land and return the gig, but they wouldn’t do so until a man ran toward them with a gun, as if he intended to shoot them when they landed. Colter got his gig and basket back, and then I ordered the Indians to leave, which they did quickly. They are from the War-ci-a-cum tribe. Colter informed us that it was only a short distance from where we were to a beautiful sandy beach that stretched for a long way, and that he had found a good harbor at the mouth of a creek near two Indian lodges. He had taken the canoe as far as he could, considering the waves; the other two men, Willard and Shannon, had continued on down.
Capt Lewis concluded to proceed on by land & find if possible the white people the Indians Say is below and examine if a Bay is Situated near the mouth of this river as laid down by Vancouver in which we expect, if there is white traders to find them &c. at 3 oClock he Set out with 4 men Drewyer Jos. & Reu. Fields & R. Frasure, in one of our large canoes and 5 men to Set them around the point on the Sand beech. this canoe returned nearly filled with water at Dark which it receved by the waves dashing into it on its return, haveing landed Capt. Lewis & his party Safe on the Sand beech. The rain Continues all day all wet. The rain &c. which has continued without a longer intermition than 2 hours at a time for ten days past has distroyd. the robes and rotted nearly one half of the fiew Clothes the party has, perticularley the leather Clothes,—fortunately for us we have no very Cold weather as yet and if we have Cold weather before we Can kill & Dress Skins for Clothing the bulk of the party will Suffer verry much.
Capt. Lewis decided to continue on foot and try to locate the white people that the Indians mentioned are further down, and check if there is a bay near the river's mouth as Vancouver described. We expect that if there are white traders, we can find them there. At 3 o'clock, he set out with 4 men: Drewyer, Joseph, Reuben Fields, and R. Frasure, in one of our large canoes, while 5 men were sent to set up camp around the point on the sandy beach. The canoe returned nearly filled with water at dark due to the waves crashing into it during the return trip, but it safely landed Capt. Lewis and his party on the sandy beach. It rained all day, leaving everyone soaked. The rain has been persistent for ten days, with breaks no longer than 2 hours, ruining the robes and rotting nearly half of the few clothes the party has, especially the leather garments. Fortunately, we haven't had very cold weather yet, but if it gets cold before we can kill and dress skins for clothing, most of the party will suffer greatly.
[Clark, November 15, 1805]
November 15th Friday 1805 Rained all the last night at intervales of Sometimes of 2 hours, This morning it became Calm & fair, I prepared to Set out at which time the wind sprung up from the S. E. and blew down the River & in a fiew minits raised Such Swells and waves brakeing on the Rocks at the point as to render it unsafe to proceed. I went to the point in an empty canoe and found it would be dangerous to proceed even in an empty Canoe The Sun Shown untill 1 oClock p.m.which gave an oppertunity for us to dry Some of our bedding, & examine our baggage, the greater Part of which I found wet Some of our Pounded fish Spoiled I had all the arms put in order & amunition examined.
November 15th, Friday, 1805. It rained all last night at intervals, sometimes for 2 hours. This morning it became calm and clear. I got ready to set out, but then the wind picked up from the southeast and blew down the river. In a few minutes, it created such swells and waves crashing on the rocks at the point that it became unsafe to proceed. I went to the point in an empty canoe and found it would be risky to go forward even in an empty canoe. The sun was out until 1 PM, which gave us a chance to dry some of our bedding and check our supplies. I discovered that most of our gear was wet, and some of our pounded fish had spoiled. I had all the weapons put in order and checked the ammunition.
The rainey weather Continued without a longer intermition than 2 hours at a time from the 5th in the morng. untill the 16th is eleven days rain, and the most disagreeable time I have experienced Confined on a tempiest Coast wet, where I can neither get out to hunt, return to a better Situation, or proceed on: in this Situation have we been for Six days past.—fortunately the wind lay about 3 oClock we loaded I in great haste and Set out passed the blustering Point below which is a Sand beech, with a Small marshey bottom for 3 miles on the Stard. Side, on which is a large village of 36 houses deserted by the Inds. & in full possession of the flees, a Small Creek fall in at this village, which waters the Country for a few miles back; Shannon & 5 Indians met me here, Shannon informed me he met Capt. Lewis Some distance below & he took willard with him & Sent him to meet me, the Inds with him wer rogues, they had the night before Stold both his and Willards guns from under their heads, Capt. Lewis & party arrived at the Camp of those Indians at So Timely a period that the Inds. were allarmed & delivered up the guns &c. The tide meeting of me and the emence Swells from the main Ocean (imedeately in front of us) raised to Such a hite that I concluded to form a Camp on the highest Spot I could find in the marshey bottom, and proceed no further by water as the Coaste becomes verry dangerous for Crafts of the Size of our Canoes-and as the Ocian is imedeately in front and gives us an extensive view of it from Cape disapointment to Point addams, my Situation is in the upper part of Haley Bay S. 86° W. ____ miles Course five to Cape Disapt. and S. 35° W. Course ____ miles from point Addams
The rainy weather continued without a break longer than 2 hours at a time from the 5th in the morning until the 16th, making it eleven days of rain, and the most unpleasant time I’ve experienced being stuck on a stormy coast, wet, where I can’t get out to hunt, return to a better place, or move forward. We’ve been in this situation for the past six days. Luckily, the wind calmed down around 3 o'clock, so we loaded up in a hurry and set out, passing the blustery point below, which is a sandy beach with a small marshy area for about 3 miles on the starboard side, where there used to be a large village of 36 houses abandoned by the Indians and now taken over by fleas. A small creek runs into this village, which waters the area for a few miles back. Shannon and 5 Indians met me here; Shannon told me he met Capt. Lewis some distance below, and he took Willard with him and sent him to meet me. The Indians with him were up to no good; they had stolen both his and Willard's guns while they were sleeping the night before. Capt. Lewis and his party arrived at the Indians' camp at just the right time, so the Indians got scared and returned the guns and other things. The tide was coming in on me, and the huge swells from the ocean (right in front of us) rose so high that I decided to camp on the highest spot I could find in the marshy area and not go any further by water since the coast becomes very dangerous for vessels the size of our canoes. The ocean is immediately in front of us, giving us a wide view from Cape Disappointment to Point Adams. My location is in the upper part of Haley Bay, S. 86° W. ____ miles to Cape Disappointment, and S. 35° W. ____ miles from Point Adams.
The River here at its mouth from Point addams to the enterance of Haley Bay above is ____ Miles or thereabouts, a large Isd. the lower point of which is immediately in the mouth above
The river at its mouth, from Point Addams to the entrance of Haley Bay, is about ____ miles long, and there's a large island at the lower point, right at the mouth above.
4 Indians in a Canoe Came down with papto roots to Sell, for which they asked, blankets or robes, both of which we could not Spare I informed those Indians all of which understood Some English that if they Stole our guns &c the men would Certainly Shute them, I treated them with great distance, & the Sentinal which was over our Baggage allarmed them verry much, they all Promised not to take any thing, and if any thing was taken by the Squars & bad boys to return them &c. the waves became very high Evening fare & pleasent, our men all Comfortable in the Camps they have made of the boards they found at the Town above
4 Indians in a canoe came down with root vegetables to sell, for which they asked for blankets or robes, both of which we couldn't spare. I told those Indians, all of whom understood some English, that if they stole our guns, the men would definitely shoot them. I kept my distance from them, and the sentinel watching over our baggage alarmed them quite a bit. They all promised not to take anything, and if anything was taken by the women and bad kids, they would return it. The waves got really high in the evening, which was nice and pleasant, and our men were all comfortable in the camps they made from the boards they found at the town above.
[Clark, November 15, 1805]
November 15th Friday 1805 Rained all the last night, this morning it became Calm and fair, I preposed Setting out, and ordered the Canoes Repared and loaded; before we could load our canoes the wind Sudenly Sprung up from the S. E and blew with Such violence, that we could not proceed in Safty with the loading. I proceeded to the point in an empty Canoe, and found that the waves dashed against the rocks with Such violence that I thought it unsave to Set out with the loaded Canoes—The Sun Shown untill 1 oClock P M which afford us time to Dry our bedding and examine the baggage which I found nearly all wet, Some of our pounded fish Spoiled in the wet; I examined the amunition and Caused all the arms to be put in order.
November 15th, Friday, 1805 It rained all night, but this morning it calmed down and cleared up. I planned to set out and had the canoes prepared and loaded. Before we could load our canoes, the wind suddenly picked up from the southeast and blew so fiercely that we couldn’t safely continue loading. I went to the point in an empty canoe and saw that the waves were crashing against the rocks so violently that I thought it was unsafe to set out with the loaded canoes. The sun shone until 1 PM, giving us time to dry our bedding and check the supplies, which I found were almost all wet. Some of our pounded fish spoiled due to the moisture. I checked the ammunition and had all the weapons put in order.
About 3 oClock the wind luled, and the river became calm, I had the canoes loaded in great haste and Set Out, from this dismal nitich where we have been confined for 6 days passed, without the possibility of proceeding on, returning to a better Situation, or get out to hunt, Scerce of Provisions, and torents of rain poreing on us all the time- proceeded on passed the blustering point below which I found a butifull Sand beech thro which runs a Small below the mouth of this Stream is a village of 36 houses uninhabited by anything except flees, here I met G. Shannon and 5 Indians. Shannon informed me that he met Capn. Lewis at an Indian Hut about 10 miles below who had Sent him back to meet me, he also told me the Indians were thievish, as the night before they had Stolen both his and Willards rifles from under their heads, that they Set out on their return and had not proceeded far up the beech before they met Capt Lewis, whose arival was at a timely moment and alarmed the Indians So that they instantly produced the Guns—I told those Indians who accompanied Shannon that they Should not Come near us, and if any one of their nation Stold anything from us, I would have him Shot, which they understoot verry well. as the tide was Comeing in and the Seas became verry high imediately from the Ocian (imediately faceing us) I landed and formed a camp on the highest Spot I could find between the hight of the tides, and the Slashers in a Small bottom this I could plainly See would be the extent of our journey by water, as the waves were too high at any Stage for our Canoes to proceed any further down. in full view of the Ocian from Point Adams to Cape Disapointment, I could not See any Island in the mouth of this river as laid down by Vancouver. The Bay which he laies down in the mouth is imediately below me. This Bay we call Haleys bay from a favourate Trader with the Indians which they Say comes into this Bay and trades with them Course to Point adams is S. 35°W. about 8 miles To Cape Disapointment is S. 86°W. about 14 miles 4 Indians of the War-ki a cum nation Came down with pap-pa-too to Sell &c. The Indians who accompanied Shannon from the village below Speake a Different language from those above, and reside to the north of this place The Call themselves Chin nooks, I told those people that they had attempted to Steal 2 guns &c. that if any one of their nation stole any thing that the Sentinl. whome they Saw near our baggage with his gun would most certainly Shute them, they all promised not to tuch a thing, and if any of their womin or bad boys took any thing to return it imediately and Chastise them for it. I treated those people with great distance. our men all Comfortable in their Camps which they have made of boards from the old Village above. we made 3 miles to day.
Around 3 o'clock, the wind calmed down, and the river became still. I quickly loaded the canoes and set out from this dreary place where we had been stuck for six days, unable to move forward, go back to a better spot, or even hunt due to a shortage of food and nonstop rain. We moved past the blustery point and found a beautiful sandy beach with a small stream running through it. Below the mouth of this stream was a village of 36 houses, completely uninhabited except for fleas. It was here that I met G. Shannon and five Indians. Shannon informed me that he had met Captain Lewis at an Indian hut about 10 miles downstream, and he had sent Shannon back to find me. He also mentioned that the Indians were untrustworthy because the night before, they had stolen both his and Willard's rifles right from under their heads. They had set out again but hadn't gotten far up the beach before encountering Captain Lewis, whose arrival startled the Indians, making them quickly return the guns. I warned the Indians who came with Shannon not to approach us and told them that if anyone from their group stole anything from us, I would have them shot, which they understood very well. As the tide was coming in and the seas became very rough immediately from the ocean in front of us, I landed and set up camp on the highest spot I could find between the high tide mark and the marshes in a small area. I could clearly see that this would be the furthest point of our journey by water since the waves were too high at any stage for our canoes to go further down. From our camp, we had a full view of the ocean from Point Adams to Cape Disappointment, but I couldn't see any island at the mouth of the river as Vancouver had mapped out. The bay he marked in the mouth was directly below me. We call this bay Haley's Bay, named after a favored trader with the Indians who, they said, comes here to trade with them. The course to Point Adams is S. 35°W, about 8 miles. To Cape Disappointment, it's S. 86°W, about 14 miles. Four Indians from the War-ki-a-cum nation came down with pap-pa-too to sell goods. The Indians who accompanied Shannon from the village below spoke a different language than those from above and lived to the north of this area. They call themselves Chinooks. I told these people that they had tried to steal two guns and that if any of their group stole anything, the sentinel they saw near our baggage with his gun would definitely shoot them. They all promised not to touch anything and assured me that if any of their women or troublemakers took something, they would return it immediately and discipline them for it. I treated these people with great caution. Our men were all comfortable in their camps made from boards from the old village upstream. We traveled three miles today.
[Clark, November 16, 1805]
November 16th Satturday 1805 a fine morning cool the latter part of the night, I had all our articles of every discription examined, and found much wet, had all put out & dried, The 5 Indians Theves left me. I took a meridean altd. with Sextt. 50° 36 15 the Shakeing emige below—I Sent out Several hunters Some to kill fowl others to hunt deer or Elk. The Sea is fomeing and looks truly dismal to day, from the wind which blew to day from the S. W. an Indian Canoe passed down to day, loaded with roots &c. three Indians Came up from below I gave them Smoke but allowed then no kind of Priveleges what ever, they camped with the 4 which Came down yesterday, near us, The evening provd. Cloudy & I could make no lunar observations. one man Sick with a violent Cold, Caught by lying in his wet Clothes, Several nights Course from Stormey point to Cape Disapointment is ____ Miles, passd a Small Creek and an old village at 2 miles on the Stard Side a Small Creek at 1 mile we Encamped just above a Point in a Deep bay to the Stard. Side into which falls 2 Small rivers Std. Grat many Indians liveing on the Bay & those two rivers, the the Countrey on the Stard. Side high broken & thickly timbered, that on the Lard. at Some distance from Point Adms high and mountains on a Pinecal of a which is Snow at this time—near the Point is Low bottom land
November 16th, Saturday, 1805: It was a nice, cool morning after a chilly night. I checked all our supplies and found a lot of them wet, so I had everything laid out to dry. The five Indian thieves left me. I took a meridian altitude with the sextant, measuring 50° 36' 15". The shaking emige below. I sent out several hunters—some to catch birds and others to hunt deer or elk. The sea is foaming and looks pretty dreary today because of the wind blowing in from the southwest. An Indian canoe came by today, loaded with roots and other things. Three Indians arrived from downstream; I offered them smoke but gave them no privileges whatsoever. They camped with the four who came down yesterday, near us. The evening turned out cloudy, and I couldn't take any lunar observations. One man is sick with a bad cold he got from lying in his wet clothes for several nights. The distance from Stormy Point to Cape Disappointment is ____ miles. We passed a small creek and an old village two miles down the starboard side and another small creek a mile away. We set up camp just above a point in a deep bay on the starboard side, where two small rivers flow in. Many Indians live around the bay and those two rivers. The land on the starboard side is high, broken, and thick with trees, while the land on the larboard side, a bit farther from Point Adams, is also high with mountains, and there's snow on the peaks. Near the point, the land is low and flat.
our hunters and fowlers killd 2 Deer 1 Crane & 2 ducks, my Servt. York killed 2 Geese & 8 white, black and Speckle Brants, The White Brant, with part of their wings black is much the largest, the black brant is verry Small, a little larger than a large Duck—the deer pore but large
our hunters and fowlers killed 2 deer, 1 crane, and 2 ducks. my servant, York, killed 2 geese and 8 white, black, and speckled brants. the white brant, with part of its wings black, is much larger, while the black brant is very small, only a bit larger than a large duck. the deer were poor but large.
[Clark, November 16, 1805]
November 16th Saturday 1805 Cool the latter part of the last night this morning Clear and butifull; I had all our articles of every discription examined and put out to Dry. The 5 Chin nooks left us I took a meridenal altitude with the Sextn. 50° 36' 15 which gave for Lattitude 46° 19' 11 1/10" North. I Sent out Several hunters and fowlers in pursute Elk, Deer, or fowls of any kind. wind hard from the S W The Waves high & look dismal indeed breaking with great fury on our beech an Indian canoe pass down to day loaded with Wap-pa-toe roots; Several Indians came up to day from below, I gave them Smoke but allowed them no kind of privilage whatever in the camp, they with the 4 which came down yesterday encamped a Short distance from us. The evening proved Cloudy and I could not take any Luner observations—One man Sick with a violent cold, Caught by laying in his wet leather Clothes for maney nights past.
November 16th, Saturday, 1805. It was cool last night, and this morning is clear and beautiful. I had all our items examined and laid out to dry. The 5 Chinook left us. I took a meridian altitude with the sextant, getting 50° 36' 15", which gives a latitude of 46° 19' 11.1/10" North. I sent out several hunters and bird catchers to pursue elk, deer, or any kind of fowl. The wind is strong from the southwest, and the waves are high, looking really dismal as they crash violently on our beach. An Indian canoe passed by today, loaded with wapato roots. Several Indians came up from below, and I gave them some tobacco but did not grant them any privileges in the camp. They, along with the 4 who came down yesterday, set up camp a short distance from us. The evening turned cloudy, and I couldn't take any lunar observations. One man is sick with a bad cold, caught from lying in his wet leather clothes for many nights.
The Countrey on the Stard Side above Haley Bay is high broken and thickley timbered on the Lard Side from Point Adams the Contrey appears low for 15 or 20 miles back to the mountains, a pinical of which now is Covered with Snow or hail, as the opposit is too far distant to be distinguished well, I Shall not attempt to describe any thing on that Side at present. our hunters and fowlers killed 2 Deer 1 Crain & 2 Ducks, and my man York killed 2 geese and 8 Brant, 3 of them white with a part of their wings black and much larger than the Grey brant which is a Sise larger than a Duck.
The land on the starboard side above Haley Bay is high, uneven, and densely wooded. On the port side, from Point Adams, the terrain looks flat for 15 or 20 miles leading back to the mountains, the peak of which is currently covered in snow or hail, while the opposite side is too far away to see clearly. I won't try to describe anything on that side right now. Our hunters and birdwatchers managed to catch 2 deer, 1 crane, and 2 ducks, and my man York shot 2 geese and 8 brants, 3 of which were white with part of their wings black and much larger than the gray brant, which is a size bigger than a duck.
[Clark, November 17, 1805]
November 17th Sunday 1805 a fair cool windey morning wind from the East. every tide which rises 8 feet 6 Inches at this place, comes in with high Swells which brake on the Sand Shore with great fury.
November 17th, Sunday, 1805 - a nice, cool, windy morning with the wind coming from the east. Every tide that rises 8 feet 6 inches here comes in with high swells that crash on the sandy shore with great force.
I Sent out 6 men to kill deer & fowls this morning at half past 1 oClock Capt. Lewis and his Party returned haveing around passd. Point Disapointment and Some distance on the main Ocian to the N W. Several Indians followed him & Soon after a canoe with wapto roots, & Lickorish boiled, which they gave as presents, in return for which we gave more than the worth to Satisfy,them a bad practice to receive a present of Indians, as they are never Satisfied in return. our hunters killed 3 Deer & th fowler 2 Ducks & q brant I Surveyed a little on the corse & made Some observns. The Chief of the nation below us Came up to See us the name of the nation is Chin-nook and is noumerous live principally on fish roots a fiew Elk and fowls. they are well armed with good Fusees. I directed all the men who wished to See more of the Ocean to Get ready to Set out with me on tomorrow day light. the following men expressed a wish to accompany me i'e Seri. Nat Pryor Serjt. J. Ordway, Jo. Fields R. Fields, Jo. Shannon, Jo Colter, William Bratten, Peter Wiser, Shabono & my Servant York. all others being well Contented with what part of the Ocean & its curiosities which Could be Seen from the vicinity of our Camp.
I sent out 6 men to hunt deer and birds this morning at 1:30 AM. Capt. Lewis and his group returned after passing Point Disappointment and traveling some distance on the main ocean to the northwest. Several Indians followed him, and soon after, a canoe arrived with wapato roots and boiled licorice, which they offered as gifts. In return, we gave them more than their value to satisfy them; it's a bad habit to accept gifts from Indians, as they are never satisfied with what you give back. Our hunters killed 3 deer, and the bird hunters got 2 ducks and a brant. I surveyed a bit of the course and made some observations. The chief of the nearby nation came to see us; the nation is called Chinook, they are numerous, and mainly live on fish, roots, a few elk, and birds. They are well armed with good rifles. I told all the men who wanted to see more of the ocean to get ready to leave with me at daylight tomorrow. The following men expressed interest in joining me: Seri, Nat Pryor, Sergeant J. Ordway, Jo. Fields, R. Fields, Jo. Shannon, Jo. Colter, William Bratten, Peter Wiser, Shabono, and my servant York. Everyone else was content with what they could see of the ocean and its wonders from our camp's vicinity.
[Clark, November 17, 1805]
November 17th Sunday 1805 A fair cool morning wind from the East. The tide rises at this place 8 feet 6 inches and comes in with great waves brakeing on the Sand beech on which we lay with great fury Six hunters out this morning in serch of Deer & fowl.
November 17th, Sunday, 1805 A clear, cool morning with a wind from the east. The tide rises here 8 feet 6 inches and comes in with huge waves crashing on the sandy beach where we are lying, with great force. Six hunters are out this morning searching for deer and birds.
At half past 1 oClock Capt Lewis returned haveing travesed Haleys Bay to Cape Disapointment and the Sea Coast to the North for Some distance. Several Chinnook Indians followed (,apt L—and a Canoe came up with roots mats &c. to Sell. those Chinnooks made us a present of a rute boiled much resembling the common liquorice in taste and Size; in return for this root we gave more than double the value to Satisfy their craveing dispostn. It is a bad practice to receive a present from those Indians as they are never Satisfied for what they reive in return if ten time the value of the articles they gave. This Chin nook Nation is about 400 Souls inhabid the Countrey on the Small rivrs which run into the bay below us and on the Ponds to the N W of us, live principally on fish and roots, they are well armed with fusees and Sometimes kill Elk Deer and fowl. our hunters killed to day 3 Deer, 4 brant and 2 Ducks, and inform me they Saw Some Elk Sign. I directed all the men who wished to See more of the main Ocian to prepare themselves to Set out with me early on tomorrow morning. The principal Chief of the Chinnooks & his familey came up to See us this evening-
At 1:30 PM, Captain Lewis returned after traveling from Haley's Bay to Cape Disappointment and along the northern coastline for some distance. Several Chinook Indians followed Captain L, and a canoe arrived carrying roots, mats, and other items to sell. These Chinooks gifted us a root that was boiled, which tasted and looked much like common licorice; in exchange for this root, we gave them more than double its worth to satisfy their desire. It's not a good idea to accept gifts from these Indians, as they are never satisfied with what they receive in return, no matter how much more valuable it is—sometimes even ten times the worth of what they gave. This Chinook nation has about 400 people living in the region near the small rivers that flow into the bay below us and on the ponds to the northwest. They primarily survive on fish and roots and are well-armed with firearms, occasionally hunting elk, deer, and birds. Our hunters killed three deer, four brant, and two ducks today, and they reported seeing some elk signs. I instructed all the men who wanted to explore more of the main ocean to get ready to set out with me early tomorrow morning. The principal chief of the Chinooks and his family came to visit us this evening.
[Clark, November 18, 1805]
Novr. 18th Monday 1805 a little Cloudy this morning I set out at day light with 10 men & my Sevent, Shabono, Sergt. Pryer odderway Jos. & R. Fields Shannon Colter, wiser, Lebiech & york proceeded on Down the Shore from the 1st point
Nov. 18th Monday 1805, it was a bit cloudy this morning. I set out at daylight with 10 men, including my servant, Shabono, Sergeant Pryer, Odderway Joseph, R. Fields, Shannon, Colter, Wiser, Lebiech, and York, and we continued down the shore from the first point.
At a run & Island near the Shore here the Traders ancher & trade? we passed at each point a Soft Clifts of yellow, brown & dark Soft Stones here Capt Lewis myself & Severl. of the men marked our names day of the month & by Land &c. &c. from this S. W. 3 miles to the Iner pt. of Cape Disapointmt passed a point & 2 Small nitches (Reuben Fields killed a Vulter) we found a Curious fiat fish Shaped like a turtle, with fins on each side, and a tale notched like a fish, the Internals on one Sid and tale & fins flat wise This fish Flownder has a white on one Side & lies flat to the Ground—passed from last hitch across to the ocean 1/2 a mile low land the Cape is a high Partly bald hill, founded on rock, I assencled a high Seperate bald hill Covered with long corse grass & Seperated from the hight of Country by a Slashey bottom 2 miles S. 60 W of the Cape—thence to a 2d Grassey pt is N. 50° W. 2 miles, Those hills are founded on rocks & the waves brake with great fury against them, the Coast is Sholey for Several miles of this Cape & for Some distance off to the N W a Sand bar in the mouth. Sholey Some distance out from the mouth The Coast from the Cape N W is open for a Short distance back then it becomes thick piney Countrey intersperced with ponds
At a run and island near the shore, the traders anchor and trade. We passed by soft cliffs made of yellow, brown, and dark soft stones. Here, Captain Lewis, myself, and several of the men marked our names, the date, and some details about the land, etc. From this point, we traveled southwest for 3 miles to the inner point of Cape Disappointment. We passed a point and two small notches (Reuben Fields killed a vulture). We found a curious flat fish shaped like a turtle, with fins on each side and a tail that is notched like a fish. The internal organs are on one side, and the tail and fins are flat. This flounder has one white side and lies flat against the ground. We crossed from the last notch to the ocean, which was half a mile away, with low land. The cape is a high, partly bald hill founded on rock. I ascended a high, separate bald hill covered with long coarse grass and separated from the height of the country by a marshy bottom, located 2 miles south, 60 degrees west of the cape. From there, to a second grassy point, it is 2 miles northwest at 50 degrees. These hills are founded on rocks, and the waves crash violently against them. The coast is shallow for several miles from this cape and has a sandbar a short distance off to the northwest. The coast from the cape northwest is open for a short distance before it becomes densely forested with pine trees and interspersed with ponds.
Point addams is S 20° W about 20 miles the Course on that Side bears S 45 W. I cannot assertain the prosise Course of the Deep water in the mouth of the river, the Channel is but narrow. I proceeded on up above the 2d point and Encamped on the Shore above the high tide, evening Clear, for a Short time. Supd. on Brant and pounded fish men all Chearfull, express a Desire to winter near the falls this winter.
Point Addams is S 20° W about 20 miles. The course on that side is S 45° W. I can't determine the exact course of the deep water at the mouth of the river; the channel is quite narrow. I continued upstream past the second point and camped on the shore above the high tide line. The evening was clear for a little while. I had supper of brant and pounded fish; the men were all cheerful and expressed a wish to spend the winter near the falls.
[Clark, November 18, 1805]
November 18h Monday 1805 A little cloudy this morning I Set out with to men and my man York to the Ocian by land. i. e. Seijt. Ordway & Pryor, Jos. & Ru. Fields, Go. Shannon, W. Brattin, J. Colter, P. Wiser, W. Labieche & P. Shabono one of our interpreters & York. I Set out at Day light and proceeded on a Sandy beech from Cape Disapointment to a high point of a Mountn. which we shall call Clarke's Point of View beares S. 20° W. about 40 miles, point adams is verry low and is Situated within the direction between those two high points of land, the water appears verry Shole from off the mouth of the river for a great distance, and I cannot assertain the direction of the deepest Chanel, the Indians point nearest the opposit Side. the waves appear to brake with tremendious force in every direction quite across a large Sand bar lies within the mouth nearest to point Adams which is nearly covered at high tide. I suped on brant this evening with a little pounded fish. Some rain in the after part of the night. men appear much Satisfied with their trip beholding with estonishment the high waves dashing against the rocks & this emence ocian
November 18, Monday, 1805 It was a bit cloudy this morning. I set out with two men and my man York to reach the ocean by land. That is, Seijt. Ordway & Pryor, Jos. & Ru. Fields, Go. Shannon, W. Brattin, J. Colter, P. Wiser, W. Labieche & P. Shabono, one of our interpreters, and York. I started at daybreak and moved along a sandy beach from Cape Disappointment to a high point of a mountain, which we will call Clarke's Point of View, bearing S. 20° W. about 40 miles. Point Adams is very low and is situated between those two high land points. The water appears very shallow off the mouth of the river for quite a distance, and I cannot determine the direction of the deepest channel; the Indians point to the nearest spot on the opposite side. The waves seem to crash with tremendous force in every direction across a large sandbar lying just inside the mouth, which is nearly covered at high tide. I had brant for supper this evening with a little pounded fish. There was some rain later in the night. The men seem very satisfied with their trip, amazed by the high waves crashing against the rocks and this immense ocean.
[Clark, November 19, 1805]
November 19th Tuesday 1805 began to rain a little before day and Continued raining untill 11 oClock I proceeded on thro emencely bad thickets & hills crossing 2 points to a 3rd on which we built a fire and Cooked a Deer which Jos. Field Killd. from this point I can See into a Deep bend in the coast to the N. E. for 10 miles. after Brackfast I proceeded on N. 20 E. 5 miles to Comcement a large Sand bar at a low part ponds a little off from the Coast here the high rockey hills end and a low marshey Countrey Suckceed. I proceeded up the Course N. 10° W. 4 miles & marked my name & the Day of the Month on a pine tree, the waters which Wash this Sand beach is tinged with a deep brown Colour for Some distance out. The Course Contd. is N. 20° W. low Coast and Sand beech, Saw a Dead Sturgen 10 feet long on the Sand, & the back bone of a Whale, as I conceived raind I then returned to the Cape & dined, Some curious Deer on this Course darker large boded Shorte legs Pronged horns & the top of the tale black under part white as usial passed a nitch in the rocks below into which falls a Stream, after Dinner I Set out on my return S. E. passed over a low ridge & thro a piney countrey 21 Vs miles to the Bay, thence up the Bay to the mouth of the Chen-nook River Crossed in the Canoe we had left there & Encamped on the upper Side The Hills in the point of this bay are not high, & imedeately below this River the present yellow Bluffs above the River and up for about 2 miles the land is low Slashey and Contains much drift wood, the Countrey up this Creek is low with Copse of high land or as I may Say elevated. The Buzzard which Ruben Fields killed diameter of one feather is—11/4 & 1 Line from the tip of one to the tip of the other wing is 9 feet 0 Inches, from the point of the Bill to the tale is 3 feet 101/4 Ins. middle Toe 51/2 Inches, Toe nale 1 Inches wing feather 2 feet 1/2 In. Tale feathers 141/4 In. Head is 61/4 Inch long including the beek
November 19th, Tuesday, 1805, it started to rain a little before dawn and kept raining until 11 o'clock. I pushed through extremely bad thickets and hills, crossing two points to a third, where we built a fire and cooked a deer that Jos. Field killed. From this point, I could see into a deep bend in the coast to the northeast for 10 miles. After breakfast, I continued on a course of N. 20° E. for 5 miles to reach a large sandbar at a low part with ponds a little off from the coast. Here, the high rocky hills ended, and low marshy land took over. I traveled up the course N. 10° W. for 4 miles and marked my name and the date on a pine tree. The waters washing this sandy beach are tinted a deep brown color for some distance out. The course continued as N. 20° W., featuring low coast and sandy beach. I spotted a dead sturgeon, 10 feet long, on the sand, and the backbone of a whale, it seemed to be raining. I then returned to the Cape and had lunch. I saw some curious deer along this route—dark, large-bodied, with short legs, pronged horns, and the top of their tails black, while the underside was white as usual. I passed a niche in the rocks where a stream flows. After lunch, I set out on my return southeast, crossing a low ridge and through a piney area, traveling 21 and a half miles to the bay. From there, I moved up the bay to the mouth of the Chinook River, crossed it in the canoe we had left there, and camped on the upper side. The hills at this point in the bay are not high, and right below this river, the current yellow bluffs above the river stretch for about two miles, where the land is low, marshy, and full of driftwood. The area up this creek is low with some elevated patches. The buzzard that Ruben Fields killed had a feather diameter of 1¼ inches, and from the tip of one wing to the tip of the other, it measured 9 feet 0 inches. From the tip of its bill to the tail was 3 feet 10¼ inches, the middle toe was 5½ inches, and the toe nail was 1 inch. The wing feather measured 2 feet ½ inch, and the tail feathers were 14¼ inches. The head is 6¼ inches long, including the beak.
[Clark, November 19, 1805]
November 19th Tuesday 1805 a Cloudy rainey day proceeded up the Coast which runs from my camp 11/4 miles west of the iner extry of the Cape N. 20° W. 5 miles through a rugged hilley countrey thickly off the Sea coast to the Comencment of an extencive Sand beech which runs N. 10° W. to point Lewis about 20 miles distance. I proceeded up this coast 4 miles and marked my name on a low pine. and returned 3 miles back (The Countrey opsd. this Sand Coast is low and Slashey,) Crossed the point 2 miles to the bay and encamped on Chinnook river—See another book for perticulars
November 19th, Tuesday, 1805. It was a cloudy, rainy day as I traveled up the coast, which runs from my camp, 1 1/4 miles west of the inner entry of Cape N, 20° W. for 5 miles through a rugged, hilly area thickly wooded along the coast. I reached the beginning of an extensive sandy beach that runs N. 10° W. to Point Lewis, about 20 miles away. I continued along this coast for 4 miles and marked my name on a low pine tree before returning 3 miles back. The area opposite this sandy coast is low and marshy. I crossed the point 2 miles to the bay and camped on the Chinook River. See another book for details.
[Clark, November 19, 1805]
Tuesday November the 19th 1805 I arose early this morning from under a wet blanket caused by a Shower of rain which fell in the latter part of the last night and Sent two men on a head with directions to proceed on near the Sea Coast and Kill Something for brackfast and that I Should follow my Self in about half an hour. after drying our blankets a little I Set out with a view to proceed near the Coast the direction of which induced me to conclude that at the distance of 8 or 10 miles, the Bay was at no great distance across. I overtook the hunters at about 3 miles, they had killed a Small Deer on which we brackfast it comened raining and Continud moderately untill 11 oClock A M.
Tuesday, November 19, 1805: I got up early this morning from under a wet blanket because of a rain shower that fell late last night. I sent two men ahead with instructions to go toward the coast and find something for breakfast, and I planned to follow them in about half an hour. After drying our blankets a bit, I set out to head closer to the coast, which led me to believe that the bay was only about 8 or 10 miles away. I caught up with the hunters after about 3 miles; they had killed a small deer, and we had that for breakfast. It started raining again and continued lightly until 11 o'clock AM.
after takeing a Sumptious brackfast of venison which was rosted on Stiks exposed to the fire, I proceeded on through ruged Country of high hills and Steep hollers on a course from the Cape N 20° W. 5 miles on a Direct line to the Commencement of a Sandy Coast which extended N. 10° W. from the top of the hill above the Sand Shore to a Point of high land distant near 20 miles. this point I have taken the Liberty of Calling after my particular friend Lewis—at the commencement of this Sand beech the high lands leave the Sea coast in a Direction to Chinnook river, and does not touch the Sea Coast again below point Lewis leaveing a low pondey countrey, maney places open with small ponds in which there is great numbr. of fowl I am informed that the Chinnook Nation inhabit this low countrey and live in large wood houses on a river which passes through this bottom Parrilal to the Sea coast and falls into the Bay
After having a delicious breakfast of venison roasted on sticks over the fire, I continued on through the rugged terrain of high hills and steep hollows, heading from the Cape 20° N. W. for 5 miles in a straight line to the start of a sandy coast that ran 10° N. W. from the top of the hill above the sandy shore to a point of high land about 20 miles away. I’ve taken the liberty of naming this point after my good friend Lewis. At the beginning of this sandy beach, the highlands move away from the coastline towards the Chinook River and do not touch the coast again until past Point Lewis, leaving behind a low, marshy area with many spots filled with small ponds that are home to a lot of waterfowl. I’ve been told that the Chinook Nation lives in this lowland area in large wooden houses along a river that flows through this region parallel to the coastline and empties into the bay.
I proceeded on the Sandy Coast 4 miles, and marked my name on a Small pine, the Day of the month & year, &c. and returned to the foot of the hill, from which place I intended to Strike across to The Bay, I saw a Sturgeon which had been thrown on Shore and left by the tide 10 feet in length, and Several joints of the back bone of a whale which must have foundered on this part of the Coast. after Dineing on the remains of our Small Deer I proceeded through over a land S E with Some Ponds to the bay distance about 2 miles, thence up to the mouth of Chinnook river 2 miles, crossed this little river in the Canoe we left at its mouth and Encamped on the upper Side in an open Sandy bottom—The hills next to the bay Cape disapointment to a Short distance up the Chinnook river is not verry high thickly Coverd. with different Species of pine &c. maney of which are large, I observed in maney places pine of 3 or 4 feet through growing on the bodies of large trees which had fallen down, and covered with moss and yet part Sound. The Deer of this Coast differ materially from our Common deer in a much as they are much darker deeper bodied Shorter ledged horns equally branched from the beem the top of the tail black from the rute to the end Eyes larger and do not lope but jump-.
I traveled 4 miles along the Sandy Coast and marked my name on a small pine along with the date and year, and then headed back to the base of the hill. From there, I planned to make my way to the bay. I noticed a sturgeon that had washed ashore, measuring 10 feet long, and several segments of a whale's backbone, which must have sunk in this part of the coast. After having lunch with the remains of our small deer, I continued southeast across some ponds towards the bay, approximately 2 miles away, and then up to the mouth of the Chinnook River, another 2 miles. I crossed this small river in the canoe we left at its mouth and set up camp on the upper side in an open sandy area. The hills near the bay, particularly Cape Disappointment, are not very high but are densely covered with various species of pine and other trees, many of which are large. I noticed in several places pine trees with trunks 3 or 4 feet wide growing on the fallen trunks of larger trees, which were covered in moss yet still partly intact. The deer in this region are quite different from our common deer; they are much darker, sturdier, have shorter legs, and their antlers are evenly branched from the beam. The top of their tails is black from the base to the tip, their eyes are larger, and instead of loping, they jump.
[Clark, November 20, 1805]
Novr. 20 Wednesday 1805 Some rain last night despatchd. 3 men to hunt Jo. Fields & Cotter to hunt Elk & Labich to kill some Brant for our brackfast The Morning Cleared up fare and we proceeded on by the Same rout we went out, at the River we found no Indians. made a raft & Ruben Fields Crossed and took over a Small Canoe which lay at the Indian Cabin—This Creek is at this time of high tide 300 yards wide & the marshes for Some distance up the Creek Covered with water. not an Indian to be Seen near the Creek. I proceeded on to Camp & on my way was over taken by 3 Indians one gave us Sturgeon & Wapto roots to eate I met Several parties on way all of them appeared to know me & was distant, found all well at Camp, maney Indians about one of which had on a robe made of 2 Sea Orter Skins. Capt Lewis offered him many things for his Skins with others a blanket, a coat all of which he refused we at length purchased it for a belt of Blue Beeds which the Squar had- The tide being out we walked home on the beech
Nov 20, Wednesday 1805 Some rain last night sent 3 men to hunt Jo. Fields and Cotter went to hunt elk, and Labich was sent to catch some brant for our breakfast. The morning cleared up nicely, so we continued on the same route we took coming out. At the river, we didn't find any Indians. We made a raft, and Ruben Fields crossed over with a small canoe that was at the Indian cabin. Currently, this creek at high tide is 300 yards wide, and the marshes for some distance up the creek are flooded. There were no Indians in sight near the creek. I continued on to camp and was overtaken by 3 Indians on the way; one gave us sturgeon and wapato roots to eat. I encountered several groups along the way, all of whom seemed to recognize me but kept their distance. I found everyone at camp well; there were many Indians around, one of whom wore a robe made from 2 sea otter skins. Captain Lewis offered him various items for his skins, including a blanket and a coat, but he refused everything. We eventually bought it for a belt of blue beads that the squaw had. With the tide out, we walked home along the beach.
[Clark, November 20, 1805]
Wednesday November the 20th 1805 Some rain last night dispatched Labiech to kill Some fowl for our brackfast he returned in about 2 hours with 8 large Ducks on which we brackfast I proceeded on to the enterance of a Creek near a Cabin no person being at this cabin and 2 Canoes laying on the opposit Shore from us, I deturmined to have a raft made and Send a man over for a canoe, a Small raft was Soon made, and Reuben Fields Crossed and brought over a Canoe—This Creek which is the outlet of a number of ponds, is at this time (high tide) 300 yds wide—I proceeded on up the Beech and was overtaken by three Indians one of them gave me Some dried Sturgeon and a fiew wappato roots, I employd Those Indians to take up one of our Canoes which had been left by the first party that Came down, for which Service I gave them each a fishing hook of a large Size—on my way up I met Several parties of Chinnooks which I had not before Seen they were on their return from our Camp. all those people appeard to know my deturmonation of keeping every individual of their nation at a proper distance, as they were guarded and resurved in my presence &c. found maney of the Chin nooks with Capt. Lewis of whome there was 2 Cheifs Com com mo ly & Chil-lar-la-wil to whome we gave Medals and to one a flag. one of the Indians had on a roab made of 2 Sea Otter Skins the fur of them were more butifull than any fur I had ever Seen both Capt. Lewis & my Self endeavored to purchase the roab with different articles at length we precured it for a belt of blue beeds which the Squar-wife of our interpreter Shabono wore around her waste. in my absence the hunters had killed Several Deer and fowl of different kinds
Wednesday, November 20, 1805 Some rain last night sent Labiech to get some birds for our breakfast. He returned in about 2 hours with 8 large ducks, which we had for breakfast. I continued on to the entrance of a creek near a cabin. Since no one was at the cabin and there were 2 canoes on the opposite shore, I decided to have a raft made and send someone for a canoe. A small raft was quickly put together, and Reuben Fields crossed over and brought back a canoe. This creek, which is the outlet of several ponds, is about 300 yards wide at high tide. I went up the beach and was approached by three Indians. One of them gave me some dried sturgeon and a few wappato roots. I asked those Indians to retrieve one of our canoes that had been left by the first group that came down, and for their help, I gave each of them a large fishing hook. On my way up, I encountered several groups of Chinooks that I hadn’t seen before, returning from our camp. All of them seemed to recognize my intention of keeping everyone from their nation at a safe distance, as they were reserved and cautious around me. I found many of the Chinooks with Captain Lewis, including 2 chiefs named Com Com Mo Ly and Chil-lar-la-wil, to whom we gave medals and a flag. One of the Indians was wearing a robe made of 2 sea otter skins, the fur of which was more beautiful than any I had ever seen. Both Captain Lewis and I tried to buy the robe with different items, and eventually, we managed to get it in exchange for a belt of blue beads that the wife of our interpreter, Shabono, wore around her waist. In my absence, the hunters had killed several deer and various types of fowl.
[Clark, November 21, 1805]
November 21st Thursday 1805 a Cloudy morning most of the Indians left us, The nation on the opposit Side is Small & Called Clap-soil, Their great chief name Stil-la-sha The nation liveing to the North is Called Chieltz. The chief is name Malaugh not large nation and wore his beards as informed by the Inds. In my absence the hunters Kild. 7 Deer, 4 brants & a Crane.
November 21st, Thursday, 1805: It was a cloudy morning, and most of the Indians left us. The tribe on the opposite side is small and called Clap-soil. Their chief's name is Stil-la-sha. The tribe living to the north is called Chieltz, and their chief is named Malaugh. It's not a large tribe, and they wear beards, as I was informed by the Indians. In my absence, the hunters killed 7 deer, 4 brants, and a crane.
Great numbers of the dark brant passing Southerley, the white yet Stationary, no gees & Swan to be Seen. The wind blew hard from the S. E. which with the addition of the flood tide raised emence Swells & waves which almost entered our Encampment morng. dark & Disagreeable, a Supriseing Climent. We have not had One cold day Since we passed below the last falls or great Shute & Some time before the Climent is temperate, and the only change we have experienced is from fair weather to rainey windey weather—I made a chief & gave a medel this man is name Tow-wall and appears to have Some influence with the nation and tells me he lives at the great Shute-we gave the Squar a Coate of Blue Cloth for the belt of Blue Beeds we gave for the Sea otter Skins purchased of an Indian. at 12 oClock it began to rain, and continued moderately all day, Some wind from the S. E., waves too high for us to proceed on our homeward bound journey. Lattitude of this place is 46° 19' 11 1/10" North Several Indians and Squars came this evening I beleave for the purpose of gratifying the passions of our men, Those people appear to View Sensuality as a necessary evile, and do not appear to abhore this as Crime in the unmarried females. The young women Sport openly with our men, and appear to receive the approbation of their friends & relations for So doing maney of the women are handsom.
A large number of dark brant were passing Southerley, while the white ones stayed put; no geese or swans were in sight. The wind was blowing hard from the southeast, and combined with the rising tide, it created huge swells and waves that nearly reached our campsite this morning. It was dark and unpleasant, a surprising climate. We haven't experienced a single cold day since we passed below the last falls or great chute, and for some time now, the weather has been mild. The only change we've seen has been from fair weather to rainy and windy conditions. I made a chief and gave him a medal; his name is Tow-wall, and he seems to have some influence with his people, saying he lives at the great chute. We gave a square a coat of blue cloth for the belt of blue beads we got for the sea otter skins we purchased from an Indian. At noon, it started to rain and continued moderately all day, with some wind from the southeast, and the waves were too high for us to continue on our journey home. The latitude of this place is 46° 19' 11 1/10" North. Several Indians and women came this evening, I believe to satisfy the desires of our men. These people seem to view sensuality as a necessary evil and do not seem to see it as a crime among unmarried females. The young women openly flirt with our men and appear to have the approval of their friends and relatives for doing so; many of the women are attractive.
They are all low both men and women, I saw the name of J. Bowmon marked or picked on a young Squars left arm. The women of this nation Pick their legs in different figures as an orpiment. they were their hair loose, Some trinkets in their ears, none in the nose as those above, their Dress is as follows, i,e the men, were a roabe of either the skins of ____ a Small fured animal, & which is most common, or the Skins of the Sea orter, Loon, Swan, Beaver, Deer, Elk, or blankets either red, blu, or white, which roabes cover the sholders arms & body, all other parts are nakd.
They all seem quite lowly, both men and women. I noticed the name J. Bowmon marked on a young Squar’s left arm. The women of this nation style their legs in different patterns like orpiment. They wear their hair down and have some jewelry in their ears, but none in their noses like the others. Their clothing is as follows: the men wear robes made from the skins of either a small fur-bearing animal, which is the most common, or from the skins of sea otters, loons, swans, beavers, deer, or elk. They also wear blankets that are red, blue, or white. These robes cover their shoulders, arms, and bodies, while the rest of them is naked.
The women were a Short peticoat of the iner bark of the white Ceder or Arber Vita, which hang down loose in Strings nearly as low as the knee, with a Short Robe which fall half way down the Thigh. no other part is Covered. The orniments are beeds, Blue principally, large Brass wire around their rists Som rings, and maney men have Salors Clothes, many have good fusees & Ball & Powder—The women ware a String of Something curious tied tight above the anckle, all have large Swelled legs & thighs The men Small legs & thighs and Generally badly made—They live on Elk Deer fowls, but principally fish and roots of 3 Kinds, Lickorish, Wapto &c. The women have more privalages than is Common amongst Indians—Pocks & Venerial is Common amongst them I Saw one man & one woman who appeared to be all in Scabs, & Several men with the venereal, their other Disorders and the remides for them I could not lern we divided Some ribin between the men of our party to bestow on their favourite Lasses, this plan to Save the knives & more valueable articles.
The women wore short skirts made from the inner bark of white cedar or arborvitae, hanging loosely in strands down to about the knee, paired with short dresses that reached halfway down the thigh. No other part of their bodies was covered. Their ornaments included primarily blue beads, large brass wire around their wrists, some rings, and many men wore sailor's clothes. Several men had good firearms, including flintlock rifles and ammunition. The women wore something interesting tied tightly above the ankle, and all of them had large, swollen legs and thighs. The men had small legs and thighs and were generally not well-built. They subsisted on elk, deer, fowl, and mostly fish and three types of roots: licorice, wapato, etc. The women enjoyed more privileges than is usual among Native Americans. Skin conditions and venereal diseases were common among them; I saw one man and one woman who appeared to be covered in scabs, along with several men suffering from venereal diseases. I couldn't learn about their other ailments or the remedies for them. We divided some ribbons among the men in our group to give to their favorite girls, as this was a way to save knives and more valuable items.
Those people gave me Sturgion Salmon & wapto roots, & we bought roots, Some mats &c. &c. for which we were obliged to give emence prices—we also purchased a kind of Cranberry which the Indians Say the geather in the low lands, off of Small either vines or bushes just abov the ground—we also purchased hats made of Grass &c. of those Indians, Some very handsom mats made of flags-Some fiew curious baskets made of a Strong weed & willow or ____ Splits-, also a Sweet Soft black root, about th Sise & Shape of a Carrot, this root they Value verry highly- The Wapto root is Scerce, and highly valued by those people, this root they roste in hot ashes like a potato and the outer Skin peals off, tho this is a trouble they Seldom perform.
Those people gave me sturgeon salmon and wapato roots, and we bought roots, some mats, etc. for which we had to pay huge prices. We also bought a type of cranberry that the Indians say they gather in the lowlands, from small vines or bushes just above the ground. We also purchased hats made from grass, some very nice mats made from flags, a few interesting baskets made from a strong weed and willow splits, and also a sweet, soft black root about the size and shape of a carrot, which they value very highly. The wapato root is rare and highly valued by these people; they roast it in hot ashes like a potato, and the outer skin peels off, though this is a hassle they rarely take the time to do.
[Clark, November 21, 1805]
Thursday November 21st 1805 a cloudy morning most of the Chinnooks leave our Camp and return home, great numbers of the dark brant passing to the South, the white Brant have not yet commenced their flight. The wind blew hard from the S. E. which with the addition of the flood tide raised verry high waves which broke with great violence against the Shore throwing water into our Camp—the fore part of this day Cloudy at 12 oClock it began to rain and Continud all day moderately, Several Indians Visit us to day of differant nations or Bands Some of the Chiltz Nation who reside on the Sea Coast near Point Lewis, Several of the Clotsops who reside on the opposit Side of the Columbia imediately opposit to us, and a Chief from the Grand rapid to whome we gave a Medal.
Thursday, November 21, 1805, was a cloudy morning. Most of the Chinnooks left our camp and returned home, while large numbers of dark brant were flying south. The white brant hadn’t started their migration yet. The wind was blowing hard from the southeast, and combined with the flood tide, it created very high waves that crashed violently against the shore, splashing water into our camp. Early in the day was cloudy, and by 12 o'clock, it started to rain and continued moderately for the rest of the day. Several Indians of different nations or bands visited us today, including some from the Chiltz Nation who live on the coast near Point Lewis, several Clatsops from the opposite side of the Columbia right across from us, and a chief from the Grand Rapid, to whom we gave a medal.
An old woman & wife to a Cheif of the Chinnooks came and made a Camp near ours She brought with her 6 young Squars I believe for the purpose of gratifying the passions of the men of our party and receving for those indulgiences Such Small as She (the old woman) thought proper to accept of, Those people appear to view Sensuality as a Necessary evel, and do not appear to abhor it as a Crime in the unmarried State—The young females are fond of the attention of our men and appear to meet the sincere approbation of their friends and connections, for thus obtaining their favours; the womin of the Chinnook Nation have handsom faces low and badly made with large legs & thighs which are generally Swelled from a Stopage of the circulation in the feet (which are Small) by maney Strands of Beeds or curious Strings which are drawn tight around the leg above the anckle, their legs are also picked with different figures, I Saw on the left arm of a Squar the following letters,. Bowmon, all those are Considered by the natives of this quarter as handsom deckerations, and a woman without those deckorations is Considered as among the lower Class they ware their hair lose hanging over their back and Sholders maney have blue beeds threaded & hung from different parts of their ears and about ther neck and around their wrists, their dress other wise is prosisely like that of the Nation of Wa ci a cum as already discribed. a Short roab, and tissue or kind of peticoat of the bark of Cedar which fall down in Strings as low as the knee behind and not So low before maney of the men have blankets of red blue or Spotted Cloth or the common three & 21/2 point blankets, and Salors old Clothes which they appear to prise highly, they also have robes of Sea Otter, Beaver, Elk, Deer, fox and Cat common to this countrey, which I have never Seen in the U States. They also precure a roabe from the nativs above, which is made of the Skins of a Small animal about the Size of a Cat, which is light and dureable and highly prized by those people—the greater numbers of the men of the Chinnooks have Guns and powder and Ball—The Men are low homely and badly made, Small Crooked legs large feet, and all of both Sects have flattened heads—The food of this nation is principally fish & roots the fish they precure from the river by the means of nets and gigs, and the Salmon which run up the Small branches together with what they collect drifted up on the Shores of the Sea coast near to where they live
An old woman, wife of a chief from the Chinook tribe, came and set up a camp near ours. She brought with her six young women, probably to satisfy the desires of the men in our group and to receive whatever small gifts she deemed appropriate. These people seem to view sensuality as a necessary evil and don’t appear to see it as a crime for those who are unmarried. The young women enjoy the attention from our men and seem to have the full approval of their friends and family for seeking their favors. The women of the Chinook Nation have attractive faces, but they are short and poorly built with large legs and thighs that are often swollen due to restricted circulation in their small feet, which are tightly bound with many strands of beads or decorative strings just above the ankle. Their legs are also adorned with various patterns. I saw letters spelling “Bowmon” on the left arm of one of the young women; all of these adornments are considered beautiful by the locals, and a woman without such decorations is regarded as belonging to the lower class. They wear their hair loose, flowing over their backs and shoulders. Many have blue beads threaded through different parts of their ears, around their necks, and on their wrists. Their clothing is similar to that of the Wacicum Nation, as described before: a short robe and a kind of petticoat made from cedar bark that hangs down in strands to knee-length at the back and is shorter in front. Many men wear blankets made of red, blue, or spotted cloth or the common three and two-and-a-half point blankets, as well as old sailors' clothes, which they seem to value highly. They also have robes made from sea otter, beaver, elk, deer, fox, and cat fur, which are native to this region and not seen in the United States. They obtain a robe from the natives further up, made from the hides of a small animal about the size of a cat, which is lightweight, durable, and highly valued by these people. Most men in the Chinook tribe have guns, powder, and balls. The men are generally short, unattractive, and poorly built, with small, crooked legs and large feet, and both genders have flattened heads. The primary food of this nation consists of fish and roots. They catch fish from the river using nets and gigs, including salmon that swim up the small tributaries, along with whatever driftwood washes up on the shores near where they live.
The roots which they use are Several different kinds, the Wappato which they precure from the nativs above, a black root which they call Shaw-na tah que & the wild licquorish is the most Common, they also kill a fiew Elk Deer & fowl—maney of the Chinnooks appear to have venerious and pustelus disorders. one woman whome I saw at the beech appeared all over in Scabs and ulsers &c.
The roots they use come from several different types, including Wappato, which they get from the natives upstream, a black root they call Shaw-na tah que, and wild licorice, which is the most common. They also hunt a few elk, deer, and birds. Many of the Chinooks seem to have issues with venereal and pustular diseases. One woman I saw at the beach was covered in scabs and ulcers, etc.
we gave to the men each a pece of ribin We purchased Cramberies Mats verry netely made of flags and rushes, Some roots, Salmon and I purchased a hat made of Splits & Strong grass, which is made in the fashion which was common in the U States two years ago also Small baskets to hold Water made of Split and Straw, for those articles we gave high prices-.
we gave each of the men a piece of ribbon. We bought cranberry mats very nicely made of flags and rushes, some roots, salmon, and I bought a hat made of split and strong grass, which was made in the style that was common in the U.S. two years ago. We also got small baskets to hold water made of split and straw, for which we paid high prices.
[Clark, November 22, 1805]
Novr. 22nd Friday 1805 Some little rain all the last night with wind, before day the wind increased to a Storm from the S. S. E. and blew with violence throwing the water of the river with emence waves out of its banks almost over whelming us in water, O! how horriable is the day—This Storm Continued all day with equal violence accompanied with rain, Several Indians about us, nothing killed the waves & brakers flew over our Camp, one Canoe Split by the Tossing of those waves—we are all Confined to our Camp and wet. purchased some Wapto roots for which was given, brass armbans & rings of which the Squars were fond. we find the Indians easy ruled and kept in order by a Stricter indifference towards them
Nov. 22nd, Friday 1805 Some rain throughout last night with strong winds. Before dawn, the wind picked up to a storm from the S.S.E. and blew violently, creating enormous waves that overflowed the riverbanks, nearly drowning us in water. Oh! What a horrible day—This storm continued with the same intensity all day, along with rain. Several Indians were around us; nothing could calm the waves, and they crashed over our camp. One canoe was split apart by the tossing of those waves—we're all stuck in our camp and soaked. We bought some Wapato roots in exchange for brass armbands and rings, which the women liked. We find that the Indians are easily managed and kept in line by showing them a strict indifference.
[Clark, November 22, 1805]
Friday November 22nd 1805 a moderate rain all the last night with wind, a little before Day light the wind which was from the S S. E. blew with Such violence that we wer almost overwhelmned with water blown from the river, this Storm did not Sease at day but blew with nearly equal violence throughout the whole day accompaned with rain. O! how horriable is the day waves brakeing with great violence against the Shore throwing the Water into our Camp &c. all wet and Confind to our Shelters, Several Indian men and women Crouding about the mens Shelters to day, we purchased a fiew wappato roots for which we gave armbans, & rings to the old Squar, those roots are equal to the Irish potato, and is a tolerable Substitute for bread
Friday, November 22, 1805: A moderate rain fell all night along with wind. Just before dawn, the wind from the S.S.E. blew so hard that we were nearly overwhelmed by water from the river. This storm didn’t let up during the day; it continued to blow almost as violently and was accompanied by rain. Oh! How terrible is this day! Waves were crashing violently against the shore, splashing water into our camp, leaving us wet and confined to our shelters. Several Indian men and women crowded around the men’s shelters today. We bought a few wappato roots, giving some armbands and rings to the old woman in exchange. Those roots are as good as Irish potatoes and serve as a decent substitute for bread.
The threat which I made to the men of this nation whome I first Saw, and an indifference towards them, is I am fulley Convinced the Cause of their Conducting themselves with great propriety towards ourselves & Party.
The threat I made to the men of this nation whom I first saw, and my indifference toward them, is what I am fully convinced is the reason for their behavior towards us and our party being very proper.
[Clark, November 23, 1805]
November 23rd Saturday 1805 The Cloudy and Calm, a moderate rain the greater part of the last night, Sent out men to hunt this morning and they Killed 3 Bucks, rained at intervales all day. I marked my name the Day of the month & year on a Beech trees & (By Land) Capt Lewis Branded his and the men all marked their nams on trees about the Camp. one Indian Came up from their village on some lakes near Haleys bay. In the Evening 7 Indians of the Clatt Sopp nation, opposit Came over, they brought with them 2 Sea orter Skins, for which the asked Such high prices we were uneabled to purchase, without reduceing our Small Stock of merchindize on which we have to depend in part for a Subsistance on our return home, Kiled 4 brant & 3 Ducks to day
November 23rd, Saturday, 1805. It was cloudy and calm, with moderate rain for most of the night. I sent out men to hunt this morning, and they killed three bucks. It rained at intervals all day. I carved my name along with the date on a beech tree, and Captain Lewis branded his name, while the rest of the men marked their names on trees around the camp. An Indian came over from their village near some lakes close to Haley's Bay. In the evening, seven Indians from the Clatsop nation came over; they brought two sea otter skins but asked such high prices that we couldn’t afford them without diminishing our small stock of merchandise, which we depend on in part for survival on our return home. We killed four brant and three ducks today.
[Clark, November 23, 1805]
Saturday November 22rd 1805. A calm Cloudy morning, a moderate rain the greater part of the last night, Capt Lewis Branded a tree with his name Date &c. I marked my name the Day & year on a Alder tree, the party all Cut the first letters of their names on different trees in the bottom. our hunters killed 3 Bucks, 4 Brant & 3 Ducks to day.
Saturday, November 22nd, 1805. It was a calm, cloudy morning with moderate rain for most of the night. Captain Lewis branded a tree with his name, date, etc. I marked my name, the day, and the year on an alder tree. The group all carved the first letters of their names into different trees in the area. Our hunters brought in 3 bucks, 4 brant, and 3 ducks today.
in the evening Seven indians of the Clot Sop Nation Came over in a Canoe, they brought with them 2 Sea otter Skins for which they asked blue beads &c. and Such high pricies that we were unable to purchase them without reducing our Small Stock of merchendize, on which we depended for Subcistance on our return up this river—mearly to try the Indian who had one of those Skins, I offered him my Watch, handkerchief a bunch of red beads and a dollar of the American Coin, all of which he refused and demanded "ti-a, co-mo-shack" which is Chief beads and the most common blue beads, but fiew of which we have at this time
In the evening, seven members of the Clot Sop Nation came over in a canoe. They brought with them two sea otter skins and asked for blue beads and other items at such high prices that we couldn't afford them without depleting our small stock of merchandise, which we relied on for our return up the river. To test the Indian who owned one of the skins, I offered him my watch, a handkerchief, a bunch of red beads, and a dollar in American coins, all of which he refused. He demanded "ti-a, co-mo-shack," which means chief beads and the most common blue beads, but we have very few of those at this time.
This nation is the remains of a large nation destroyed by the Small pox or Some other which those people were not acquainted with, they Speak the Same language of the Chinnooks and resemble them in every respect except that of Stealing, which we have not Cought them at as yet.
This nation is what’s left of a large one wiped out by smallpox or some other disease they weren’t familiar with. They speak the same language as the Chinooks and are similar to them in every way except for stealing, which we haven’t caught them doing yet.
[Clark, November 24, 1805]
November 24th Sunday 1805 Several of the Chenn nook N. Came, one of them brought an Sea orter Skin for which we gave Some blue Beeds—This day proved to be fair and we dried our wet articles bedding &c. The hunters killed only 1 brant no Deer or any thing else
November 24th, Sunday 1805 Several people from the Chenn nook N. came by; one of them brought a sea otter skin, and we exchanged it for some blue beads. The weather was nice today, so we dried our wet things, including bedding, etc. The hunters only managed to kill one brant and didn’t get any deer or anything else.
The old chief of Chinn-nook nation and Several men & women Came to our camp this evening & Smoked the pipe
The old chief of the Chinn-nook nation and several men and women came to our camp this evening and smoked the pipe.
Serjt J. Ordway
Cross & examine
S
Serjt. N. Pryor
do do
S
Sgt. P. Gass
do do
S
Jo. Shields
proceed to Sandy R
Go. Shannon
Examn. Cross
falls
T. P. Howard
do do
falls
P. Wiser
do do
S. R
J. Collins
do do
S. R
Jo Fields
do do
up
Al. Willard
do do
up
R Willard
do do
up
J. Potts
do do
falls
R. Frasure
do do
up
Wm. Bratten
do do
up
R. Fields
do do
falls
J. B. Thompson
do do
up
J. Colter
do do
up
H. Hall
do do
S. R.
Labeech
do do
S R
Peter Crusatte
do do
S R
J. B. Depage
do do
up
Shabono
—-
-
S. Guterich
do do
falls
W. Werner
do do
up
Go. Gibson
do do
up
Jos. Whitehouse
do do
up
Geo Drewyer
Examn other side
falls
McNeal
do do
up
York
" "
lookout
falls Sandy River lookout up
6 10 12
Sgt. J. Ordway
Cross & examine
S
Sgt. N. Pryor
same
S
Sgt. P. Gass
same
S
Jo. Shields
proceed to Sandy R
Go. Shannon
Cross Examination
falls
T. P. Howard
same
falls
P. Wiser
same
S. R
J. Collins
same
S. R
Jo Fields
same
up
Al. Willard
same
up
R. Willard
same
up
J. Potts
same
falls
R. Frasure
same
up
Wm. Bratten
same
up
R. Fields
same
falls
J. B. Thompson
same
up
J. Colter
same
up
H. Hall
same
S. R.
Labeech
same
S. R
Peter Crusatte
same
S. R
J. B. Depage
same
up
Shabono
—
-
S. Guterich
same
falls
W. Werner
same
up
Go. Gibson
same
up
Jos. Whitehouse
same
up
Geo Drewyer
Cross Examination other side
falls
McNeal
same
up
York
" "
lookout
falls Sandy River lookout up
6 10 12 Janey in favour of a place where there is plenty of Potas.
Janey prefers a place where there's plenty of Potas.
Cp L Proceed on to morrow & examine The other side if good hunting to winter there, as Salt is an objt. if not to proceed on to Sandy it is probable that a vestle will come in this winter, & that by proceeding on at any distance would not inhance our journey in passing the Rockey mountains, &c.
Cp L Proceed tomorrow and check the other side to see if it's good for hunting to stay there for the winter, since salt is an issue. If not, we should move on to Sandy. It's likely that a vessel will arrive this winter, and continuing on for any distance wouldn't make our journey through the Rocky Mountains any easier, etc.
W C. In favour of proceding on without delay to the opposit Shore & there examine, and find out both the disposition of the Indians, & probibilaty of precureing Subsistance, and also enquire if the Tradeing vestles will arrive before the time we Should depart in the Spring, and if the Traders, Comonly arive in a Seasonable time, and we Can Subsist without a depends. on our Stores of goods, to Continue as the Climent would be more favourable on the Sea Coast for our naked men than higher up the Countrey where the Climate must be more Severe—The advantage of the arival of a vestle from whome we Can precure goods will be more than an over ballance, for the bad liveing we Shall have in liveing on Pore deer & Elk we may get in this neighbourhood. If we Cannot subsist on the above terms to proceed on, and make Station Camps, to neighbourhood of the Frendly village near the long narrows & delay untill we Can proceed up the river. Salt water I view as an evil in as much as it is not helthy—I am also of opinion that one two or three weeks Exemination on the opposide if the propects are any wise favourable, would not be too long
W C. I support proceeding without delay to the opposite shore to examine and determine both the attitude of the Indians and the likelihood of securing food. We should also find out if the trading ships will arrive before we need to leave in the spring and if the traders typically arrive in a timely manner. If we can manage without relying on our supply of goods, staying along the coast would be better for our exposed men than going further inland, where the climate will be harsher. The benefits of a ship arriving, from which we can obtain goods, will outweigh the downsides of living on the poor deer and elk we might find in this area. If we can’t sustain ourselves under these conditions, we should set up temporary camps near the friendly village by the long narrows and hold off until we can progress up the river. I see salt water as a negative since it's not healthy. I also believe that one, two, or three weeks of examination on the opposite side would not be too long if the prospects seem at all favorable.
Variation of the Compass is 16° East
Variation of the Compass is 16° East
[Clark, November 24, 1805]
Sunday November 24th 1805. A fair morning Sent out 6 hunters, and we proceeded to make the following observations a Chief and Several men of the Chin nook nation Came to Smoke with us this evening one of the men brought a Small Sea otter Skin for which we gave Some blue beads—this day proved fair which gave us an oppertunity of drying our wet articles, bedding &c. &c. nothing killed to day except one Brant. the variation of the Compass is 16° East.
Sunday, November 24th, 1805. It was a nice morning. We sent out 6 hunters and made the following observations. A chief and several men from the Chinook nation came to smoke with us this evening; one of the men brought a small sea otter skin, for which we gave him some blue beads. The weather was fair today, allowing us to dry our wet items, bedding, etc. Nothing was killed today except one brant. The compass variation is 16° east.
being now determined to go into Winter quarters as Soon as possible, as a convenient Situation to precure the Wild animals of the forest which must be our dependance for Subsisting this Winter, we have every reason to believe that the nativs have not provisions Suffient for our Consumption, and if they had, their price's are So high that it would take ten times as much to purchase their roots & Dried fish as we have in our possesion, encluding our Small remains of merchindz and Clothes &c. This Certinly enduces every individual of the party to make diligient enquiries of the nativs the part of the Countrey in which the wild Animals are most plenty. They generaly agree that the most Elk is on the opposit Shore, and that the greatest numbers of Deer is up the river at Some distance above
Determined to settle in for the winter as soon as possible, which is a convenient strategy to gather wild animals from the forest that we'll rely on for food this winter, we have every reason to believe that the natives don't have enough provisions for us. Even if they did, their prices are so high that it would take ten times what we have to buy their roots and dried fish, including our small remaining supplies of merchandise and clothes. This certainly drives every member of the party to ask the natives diligently about where in the area wild animals are most abundant. They generally agree that there are the most elk on the opposite shore and that the greatest numbers of deer can be found up the river, a little ways away.
The Elk being an animal much larger than Deer, easier to kiled better meat (in the winter when pore) and Skins better for the Clothes of our party; added to-, a convenient Situation to the Sea coast where we Could make Salt, and a probibility of vessels Comeing into the mouth of Columbia ("which the Indians inform us would return to trade with them in 3 months") from whome we might precure a fresh Supply of Indian trinkets to purchase provisions on our return home; together with the Solicitations of every individual, except one of our party induced us Conclude to Cross the river and examine the opposit Side, and if a Sufficent quantity of Elk could probebly be precured to fix on a Situation as convenient to the Elk & Sea Coast as we Could find—added to the above advantagies in being near the Sea Coast one most Strikeing one occurs to me i e, the Climate which must be from every appearance much milder than that above the 1st range of Mountains, The Indians are Slightly Clothed and give an account of but little Snow, and the weather which we have experiened Since we arrived in the neighbourhood of the Sea Coast has been verry warm, and maney of the fiew days past disagreeably So. if this Should be the Case it will most Certainly be the best Situation of our naked party dressed as they are altogether in leather.
The elk, being a much larger animal than deer, is easier to hunt and provides better meat (especially in the winter when food is scarce) and skins that are more suitable for our party's clothing. Additionally, there’s a convenient location near the seacoast where we could make salt and the possibility of vessels coming into the Columbia River (“which the Indians tell us would return to trade with them in three months”), from which we could obtain a fresh supply of Indian trinkets to trade for food on our return home. Considering the requests from every member of our party, except one, we decided to cross the river and investigate the other side. If we could get a sufficient amount of elk, we would pick a location that’s as convenient to the elk and the coast as we could find. Along with the advantages of being near the coast, one striking benefit comes to mind: the climate seems to be much milder than that above the first range of mountains. The Indians are lightly clothed and report very little snow, and the weather we’ve experienced since arriving near the coast has been very warm, and many of the past few days uncomfortably so. If this is the case, it would definitely be the best place for our group, especially since we are all dressed in leather.
[Clark, November 25, 1805]
November 25th Munday 1805 a fine day Several Indians Come up from below, we loaded and Set out up the river, and proceeded on to the Shallow Bay, landed to dine, The Swells too high to cross the river, agreeabley to our wish which is to examine if game Can be precured Sufficent for us to winter on that Side, after dinner which was on Drid pounded fish we proceeded on up on the North Side to near the place of our Encampment of the 7th Instant and encamped after night The evening cloudy wind of to day Generally from the E S. E, Saw from near of last Campment Mount Ranier bearing ____
November 25th, Monday 1805, a nice day. Several Indians came up from downriver. We loaded up and set out upriver, making our way to the Shallow Bay. We stopped to have lunch, but the waves were too high to cross the river. We wanted to check if we could find enough game on that side to sustain us for the winter. After lunch, which was dried pounded fish, we continued upstream along the north side, close to where we camped on the 7th of this month, and set up camp after dark. The evening was cloudy, and the wind today was mostly from the E.S.E. From near our last campsite, we saw Mount Rainier bearing ____.
[Clark, November 25, 1805]
Monday 25th November 1805 The Wind being high rendered it impossible for us to Cross the river from our Camp, we deturmind to proceed on up where it was narrow, we Set out early accompanied by 7 Chit Sops for a fiew miles, they left us and Crossed the river through emence high waves; we Dined in the Shallow Bay on Dried pounded fish, after which we proceeded on near the North Side of the Columbia, and encamp a little after night near our Encampment of the 7th instant near a rock at Some distance in the river. evening Cloudy the Winds of to day is generally E. S. E which was a verry favourable point for us as the highlands kept it from us Mt. St. Hilians Can be Seen from the mouth of this river.
Monday, November 25, 1805 The strong winds made it impossible for us to cross the river from our camp, so we decided to continue upstream where it was narrower. We set out early, accompanied by seven Chit Sops for a few miles; they then left us and crossed the river through enormous high waves. We had lunch in the shallow bay on dried pounded fish, and afterward, we moved on near the north side of the Columbia and set up camp a little after nightfall, close to our campsite from the 7th, near a rock some distance in the river. The evening was cloudy, and the winds today were generally from the east-southeast, which was very favorable for us since the highlands protected us from it. Mount St. Helens can be seen from the mouth of this river.
[Clark, November 26, 1805]
November 26th Tuesday 1805 Cloudy and Some rain this morning at daylight wind blew from the E N. E, we Set out and proceeded on up on the North Side of this great river to a rock in the river from thence we Crossed to the lower point of an ____ Island passed between 2 Islands to the main Shore, and proceeded down the South Side, passed 2 Inlets & halted below the 2d at a Indian village of 9 large houses—those Indians live on an emenence behind a Island or a Channel of the river not more than 300 yds wide, they live on fish & Elk and Wapto roots, of which we bought a few at a high price they Call them Selves Cat-tar-bets description
November 26th, Tuesday, 1805: It was cloudy with some rain this morning at daylight. The wind was blowing from the east-northeast. We set out and continued on the north side of this great river to a rock in the river. From there, we crossed to the lower point of an ____ island, passed between two islands to the main shore, and proceeded down the south side. We passed two inlets and stopped below the second at an Indian village with nine large houses. These Indians live on a rise behind an island or a channel of the river that is no more than 300 yards wide. They survive on fish, elk, and wapato roots, of which we bought a few at a high price. They call themselves Cat-tar-bets.
We proceeded on about 8 miles and Encamped in a deep bend to the South, we had not been Encamped long ere 3 Indians Came in a Canoe to trade the Wapto roots—we had rain all the day all wet and disagreeable a bad place to Camp all around this great bend is high land thickly timbered brushey & almost impossible to penetrate we Saw on an Island below the village a place of deposit for the dead in Canoes
We traveled about 8 miles and set up camp in a deep bend to the south. We hadn't been there long when 3 Native Americans arrived in a canoe to trade for wapato roots. It rained all day, making everything wet and uncomfortable—a terrible spot to camp. All around this large bend is high land, densely wooded and brushy, nearly impossible to get through. We noticed on an island below the village a burial site for the dead in canoes.
Great numbers of Swan Geese Brant Ducks & Gulls in this great bend which is Crouded with low Islands covered with weeds grass &c. and overflowed every flood tide The people of the last village is-____ they ask emence prices for what they have to Sel Blue Beeds is their great trade they are fond of Clothes or blankits of Blue red or brown We are now decending to see if a favourable place should offer on the So Side to winter &c.
Great numbers of Swan Geese, Brant Ducks, and Gulls in this large bend, which is crowded with low islands covered in weeds, grass, etc., and overflowed every flood tide. The people of the last village are asking extremely high prices for what they have to sell. Blue beads are their main trade, and they love clothes or blankets that are blue, red, or brown. We are now heading down to see if a suitable place appears on the South Side to winter, etc.
from a high Point opsd. a high Isd down the South Side is S. 30° W 6 mis to a point of low land opsd. upr. pt of Isd. passed lowr. pt. 1st Isd. marshey. at the upr. pt. Of 2 low Isd. opsd. each other at 4 miles
from a high point on the island, a high point down the south side is S. 30° W 6 miles to a point of low land opposite upstream point of the island. passed lower point of the first island marshy. at the upper point of two low islands opposite each other at 4 miles
[Clark, November 26, 1805]
Tuesday 26th November 1805 Cloudy and Some rain this morning from 6 oClock. wind from the E. N. E, we Set out out early and crossed a Short distance above the rock out in the river, & between Some low marshey Islands to the South Side of the Columbia at a low bottom about 3 miles below Point Samuel and proceeded near the South Side leaveing the Seal Islands to our right and a marshey bottom to the left 5 Miles to the Calt-har-mar Village of 9 large wood houses on a handsom elivated Situation near the foot of a Spur of the high land behind a large low Island Seperated from the Southerly Shore by a Chanel of about 200 yards Wide, This nation appear to differ verry little either in language, Customs dress or appearance from the Chin nooks & War-ci a cum live principally on fish and pappato they have also other roots, and Some Elk meat.
Tuesday, November 26, 1805 Cloudy with some rain this morning starting at 6 o'clock. The wind is coming from the E.N.E. We set out early and crossed a short distance above the rock in the river, moving between some low marshy islands to the south side of the Columbia at a low area about 3 miles below Point Samuel. We continued near the south side, leaving the Seal Islands to our right and a marshy bottom to the left, traveling 5 miles to the Calt-har-mar Village, which consists of 9 large wooden houses situated nicely on an elevated area near the foot of a spur of the high land behind a large low island, separated from the southern shore by a channel about 200 yards wide. This nation seems to differ very little in language, customs, dress, or appearance from the Chinooks and War-cis. They mainly live on fish and camas, and they also have other roots and some elk meat.
We purchased Some green fish, & wap pa to for which we gave Imoderate pricie's. after dining on the fresh fish which we purchased, we proceeded on through a Deep bend to the South and encamped under a high hill, where we found much difficuelty in precureing wood to burn, as it was raining hard, as it had been the greater part of the day. Soon after we encamped 3 Indians of the last town Came in a Canoe with wappato roots to Sell to us Some of which we purchased with fish hooksfrom the Village quite around this bend to the West the land is high and thickly timbered with pine balsom &c. a Short distance below the Calt har mer Village on the Island which is Opposit I observed Several Canoes Scaffold in which Contained their dead, as I did not examine this mode of deposing the dead, must refer it to a discription hereafter.
We bought some green fish and wapato, for which we paid an excessive price. After dining on the fresh fish we bought, we moved through a deep bend to the south and set up camp under a high hill, where we had a lot of trouble finding wood to burn because it was raining heavily, which it had been for most of the day. Soon after we set up camp, three Indians from the last town came in a canoe with wapato roots to sell to us. We bought some of them with fish hooks from the village around this bend to the west. The land there is high and thickly forested with pine and balsam. A short distance below the Caltharmer Village on the island opposite, I noticed several canoes set up as scaffolds containing their dead. Since I didn’t examine this method of disposing of the dead, I’ll refer to it in a description later.
[Clark, November 27, 1805]
November 27th Wednesday 1805 Some rain all the last night & this morning at day light 3 Canoes and 11 men Came down with roots meat, Skins &c. to Sill, they asked Such high prices we were unable to purchase any thing, and as we were about Setting out, discovered that one of those Indians had Stole an ax, we Serched and found it under the roabe of one man whome we Shamed verry much
November 27th, Wednesday, 1805. It rained all last night and this morning. At daybreak, three canoes with eleven men arrived, bringing roots, meat, skins, etc. to sell. They asked such high prices that we couldn't buy anything. Just as we were getting ready to leave, we discovered that one of the Indians had stolen an axe. We searched and found it hidden under the robe of one man, which made him very ashamed.
we proceeded on, around Point William th Swells became high and rained so hard we Concluded to halt and dry our Selves, Soon after our landing the wind rose from the East and blew hard accompanied with rain, this rain obliged us to unload & draw up our Canoes, one of which was Split to feet before we got her out of the river, this place the Peninsoley is about 50 yards and 3 miles around this point of Land. water Salt below not Salt above.
we moved on, and around Point William the waves got high and it started to rain heavily, so we decided to stop and dry off. Soon after we landed, the wind picked up from the east and blew strongly with rain. This rain forced us to unload and pull our canoes up; one of them got split two feet before we could get it out of the river. This area, the peninsula, is about 50 yards wide and three miles around this piece of land. The water is salty below and not salty above.
[Clark, November 27, 1805]
Wednesday 27th November 1805 Rained all the last night and this morning it Continues moderatelyat day light 3 Canoes and 11 Indians Came from the Village with roots mats, Skins &c. to Sell, they asked Such high prices that we were unable to purchase any thing of them, as we were about to Set out missed one of our axes which was found under an Indians roab I shamed this fellow verry much and told them they should not proceed with us- we proceded on between maney Small Islands passing a Small river of ____ yds wide which the Indians Call ____ and around a verry remarkable point which projects about 11/2 Miles directly towards the Shallow bay the isthmus which joins it to the main land is not exceding 50 yards and about 4 Miles around. we call this Point William
Wednesday, November 27, 1805 It rained all last night and this morning it continues moderately. At daybreak, 3 canoes and 11 Indians came from the village with roots, mats, skins, etc., to sell. They asked such high prices that we couldn't buy anything from them. As we were about to set out, we discovered one of our axes missing, which was found under an Indian's robe. I shamed this fellow quite a bit and told them we should not continue with them. We proceeded on between many small islands, passing a small river about ____ yards wide, which the Indians call ____, and around a very remarkable point that extends about 1.5 miles directly toward the shallow bay. The isthmus connecting it to the mainland is no more than 50 yards wide and about 4 miles around. We named this point William.
below this point the waves became So high we were Compelled to land unload and traw up the Canoes, here we formed a Camp on the neck of Land which joins Point William to the main at an old indian hut. The rain Continued hard all day we are all Wet and disagreeable. one Canoe Split before we Got her out of the Water 2 feet—The water at our Camp Salt that above the isthmus fresh and fine
Below this point, the waves got so high that we had to land, unload, and pull up the canoes. Here, we set up camp on the piece of land connecting Point William to the mainland at an old Indian hut. It rained heavily all day, and we were all wet and uncomfortable. One canoe split before we could get it out of the water by 2 feet. The water at our camp is salty, while above the isthmus it's fresh and good.
[Clark, November 28, 1805]
November 28th Thursday 1805 Wind Shifted about to the S. W. and blew hard accompanied with hard rain all last night, we are all wet bedding and Stores, haveing nothing to keep our Selves or Stores dry, our Lodge nearly worn out, and the pieces of Sales & tents So full of holes & rotten that they will not keep any thing dry, we Sent out the most of the men to drive the point for deer, they Scattered through the point; Some Stood on the pensolu, we Could find no deer, Several hunters attempted to penetrate the thick woods to the main South Side without Suckcess, the Swan & gees wild and Cannot be approached, and wind to high to go either back or forward, and we have nothing to eate but a little Pounded fish which we purchasd. at the Great falls, This is our present Situation,! truly disagreeable. aded to this the robes of our Selves and men are all rotten from being Continually wet, and we Cannot precure others, or blankets in their places. about 12 oClock the wind Shifted about to the N. W and blew with great violence for the remainder of the day at maney times it blew for 15 or 20 minits with Such violence that I expected every moment to See trees taken up by the roots, Some were blown down. Those Squals were Suckceeded by rain,! O how Tremendious is the day. This dredfull wind and rain Continued with intervales of fair weather, the greater part of the evening and night.
November 28th, Thursday, 1805. The wind shifted to the southwest and blew hard, bringing heavy rain all last night. We're all soaked, along with our bedding and supplies, having nothing to keep ourselves or our things dry. Our lodge is nearly worn out, and the pieces of sails and tents are so full of holes and rotted that they can’t keep anything dry. We sent most of the men out to hunt for deer; they spread out across the area, and some stood on the peninsula, but we couldn’t find any deer. Several hunters tried to push through the thick woods to the main south side without success. The swans and geese are wild and can’t be approached, and the wind is too strong to go backward or forward. All we have to eat is a little pounded fish that we bought at the Great Falls. This is our current situation—truly unpleasant. On top of that, our robes and those of our men are all rotting from being constantly wet, and we can’t get any replacements or blankets. Around noon, the wind shifted to the northwest and blew violently for the rest of the day. At many times, it blew for 15 or 20 minutes with such force that I expected to see trees uprooted; some were blown over. These gusts were followed by rain. Oh, what a dreadful day. This terrible wind and rain continued with intervals of fair weather for most of the evening and night.
[Clark, November 28, 1805]
Thursday 28th November 1805 Wind Shifted about to the S. W. and blew hard accompanied with hard rain. rained all the last night we are all wet our bedding and Stores are also wet, we haveing nothing which is Sufficient to keep ourselves bedding or Stores dry Several men in the point hunting deer without Suckcess, the Swan and brant which are abundant Cannot be approached Sufficently near to be killed, and the wind and waves too high to proceed on to the place we expect to find Elk, & we have nothing to eate except pounded fish which we brought from the Great falls, this is our present Situation; truly disagreeable. about 12 oClock the wind Shifted around to the N W. and blew with Such violence that I expected every moment to See trees taken up by the roots, maney were blown down. This wind and rain Continued with Short intervales all the latter part of the night. O! how disagreeable is our Situation dureing this dreadfull weather.
Thursday, November 28, 1805. The wind shifted to the southwest and blew hard, accompanied by heavy rain. It rained all night, and we are all soaked; our bedding and supplies are wet too, and we have nothing that can keep our gear dry. Several men are at the point hunting deer without success; the swans and brants, which are plentiful, cannot be approached close enough to be shot, and the wind and waves are too strong to reach the area where we expect to find elk. Our only food is the pounded fish we brought from the Great Falls, which makes for a pretty miserable situation. Around noon, the wind shifted to the northwest and blew so hard that I feared we’d see trees uprooted; many were blown down. This wind and rain continued with short breaks for the rest of the night. Oh! How disagreeable our situation is during this dreadful weather.
[Lewis, November 29, 1805]
November 29th 1805. the wind being so high the party were unable to proceed with the perogues. I determined therefore to proceed down the river on it's E. side in surch of an eligible place for our winters residence and accordingly set out early this morning in the small canoe accompanyed by 5 men. drewyer R. Fields, Shannon, Colter & labiesh. proceeded along the coast.
November 29th, 1805. The wind was so strong that the group couldn't move forward with the pirogues. So, I decided to head down the river on its east side in search of a good spot for our winter camp. I set out early this morning in the small canoe, accompanied by five men: Drewyer, R. Fields, Shannon, Colter, and Labiesh. We made our way along the coast.
send out the hunters they killed 4 deer 2 brant a goos and seven ducks, it rained upon us by showers all day. left three of these deer and took with us one encamped at an old Indian hunting lodge which afforded us a tolerable shelter from the rain, which continued by intervales throughout the night.
send out the hunters. They killed 4 deer, 2 brant, a goose, and seven ducks. It rained on us in showers all day. We left three of these deer and took one with us. We set up camp at an old Indian hunting lodge that gave us decent shelter from the rain, which kept going in waves throughout the night.
[Clark, November 29, 1805]
November 29th Friday 1805 Blew hard and rained the greater part of the last night and this morning, Capt Lewis and 5 men Set out in our Small Indian canoe (which is made in the Indian fashion Calculated ride the waves) down the South Side of the river to the place the Indians informed us by Signs that numbers of Elk were to be found near the river—The Swells and waves being too high for us to proceed down in our large Canoes, in Safty
November 29th, Friday, 1805. It was windy and rained most of the night and this morning. Captain Lewis and five men set out in our small Indian canoe (which is designed in the Indian style to handle the waves) down the south side of the river to the spot the Indians indicated with signs where we could find a lot of elk near the river. The swells and waves were too high for us to safely continue downstream in our large canoes.
I Sent out two hunters to hunt deer, & one to hunt fowl, all the others employed in drying their leather and prepareing it for use, as but fiew of them have many other Clothes to boste of at this time, we are Smoked verry much in this Camp The Shore on the Side next the Sea is Covered with butifull pebble of various Colours—our diat at this time and for Severall days past is the dried pounded fish we purchased at the falls boiled in a little Salt water
I sent out two hunters to track deer and one to catch birds, while the rest were busy drying leather and getting it ready for use, since only a few of them have many other clothes to show off at this time. We're getting smoked quite a bit in this camp. The shore by the sea is covered with beautiful pebbles of various colors. Our food right now, and for several days before, has been the dried, pounded fish we bought at the falls, boiled in a bit of saltwater.
[Clark, November 29, 1805]
Friday 29th of November 1805 The wind and rain Continued all the last night, this morning much more moderate. the waves Still high and rain Continues. Capt Lewis and 5 hunters Set out in our Indian Canoe (which is Calculated to ride wave) dow to the place we expected to find Elk from the Inds. information, they pointed to a Small Bay which is yet below us—I Sent out 2 men to hunt Deer which I expected might be on the open hill Sides below, another to hunt fowl in the deep bend above the point, all the others engaged drying their leather before the fire, and prepareing it for usethey haveing but fiew other Species of Clothing to ware at this time
Friday, November 29, 1805 The wind and rain continued all night. This morning, it was much calmer, but the waves were still high and the rain persisted. Captain Lewis and five hunters set out in our Indian canoe, which is designed to handle waves, to the area where we hoped to find elk based on the Indians' information. They pointed to a small bay that is still below us. I sent out two men to hunt deer, which I thought might be on the open hillsides below, and another man to hunt fowl in the deep bend above the point. The rest of the crew was busy drying their leather by the fire and preparing it for use, as they had very few other types of clothing to wear at this time.
The winds are from Such points that we cannot form our Camp So as to provent the Smoke which is emencely disagreeable, and painfull to the eyes—The Shore below the point at our Camp is formed of butifull pebble of various colours. I observe but fiew birds of the Small kind, great numbers of wild fowls of Various kinds, the large Buzzard with white wings, grey and bald eagle's, large red tailed Hawks, ravens & Crows in abundance, the blue Magpie, a Small brown bird which frequents logs & about the roots of trees—Snakes, Lizards, Small bugs, worms, Spiders, flyes & insects of different kinds are to be Seen in abundance at this time.
The winds are coming from such directions that we can't set up our camp in a way that prevents the smoke, which is extremely unpleasant and painful for the eyes. The shore below our camp is made up of beautiful pebbles in various colors. I notice only a few small birds, but there are large numbers of wildfowl of different kinds, including large buzzards with white wings, gray and bald eagles, big red-tailed hawks, and plenty of ravens and crows. There's also the blue magpie, a small brown bird that hangs around logs and the roots of trees. Snakes, lizards, small bugs, worms, spiders, flies, and various insects are all abundant at this time.
[Lewis, November 30, 1805]
November 30th 1805. cloudy morning set out before sun rise and continued our rout up the bey
November 30th, 1805. Cloudy morning set out before sunrise and continued our route up the bay.
Sent out three men to examin the country to the S. & W. they returned after about 2 hours and informed me that the wood was so thick and obstructed by marrasses & lakes that they were unable to proceed to the ocean which could not be at any considerable distance fom the apparent sound of the waves breaking on the Coast. we now returned and asscended the inlet which we had last passd no fresh appearance of Elk or deer in our rout so far. asscend the inlet as we intended about 1 m. found it became much smaller and that it did not keep it's direction to the high land which boar S. 10 W. but inclined West. therefore returned to the large arm of the bay which we passed this morning. here we expect to meet with the Clat-sop Indians, who have tantilized us with there being much game in their neighbourhood. this information in fact was the cause of my present resurch, for where there is most game is for us the most eliguble winter station.—continued our rout up the large arm of the bay about 6 miles and encamped on the Stard. side on the highland. the water was quite sweet. therefore concluded that it must be supplyed from a large crick. at our camp it is 120 yds. wide, tho it gets narrower above. it rained but little on us today tho it was cloudy generally.—Wind from N. E.—saw a great abundance of fowls, brant, large geese, white brant sandhill Cranes, common blue crains, cormarants, haulks, ravens, crows, gulls and a great variety of ducks, the canvas back, duckinmallard, black and white diver, brown duck—&c &c
I sent out three men to explore the land to the south and west. They returned after about two hours and told me that the forest was so dense and blocked by swamps and lakes that they couldn't continue to the ocean, which couldn't be too far given the sound of the waves crashing on the coast. We turned back and went up the inlet we had passed earlier. There were no fresh signs of elk or deer along our route so far. We ascended the inlet as we had planned for about a mile and found that it became much smaller and didn't follow the direction toward the high land, which was 10 degrees south of west, but veered westward. So, we returned to the large arm of the bay we passed this morning. Here, we expect to meet the Clatsop Indians, who have teased us by saying there is plenty of game in their area. This information is actually what prompted my current search, as the best winter location for us is where there is the most game. We continued our route up the large arm of the bay for about six miles and set up camp on the starboard side on the high ground. The water was quite fresh, suggesting it must be supplied by a large creek. At our campsite, the creek is 120 yards wide, although it narrows further up. It rained very little on us today, although it was generally cloudy. The wind was from the northeast. We saw a great abundance of birds: brant, large geese, white brant, sandhill cranes, common blue cranes, cormorants, hawks, ravens, crows, gulls, and a wide variety of ducks, including canvasback, American black, and brown ducks, among others.
[Clark, November 30, 1805]
November 30th Saturday 1805 Some rain and hail with intervales of fair weather for 1 and 2 hours dureing the night and untill 9 oClock this morning at which time it Cleared up fair and the Sun Shown, I Send 5 men in a Canoe in the Deep bend above the Peninsulear to hunt fowles, & 2 men in the thick woods to hunt Elk had all our wet articles dried & the men all employed dressing their Skins, I observe but few birds in this Countrey of the Small kindsgreat numbers of wild fowl, The large Buzzard with white under their wings Grey & Bald eagle large red tailed hawk, ravins, Crows, & a small brown bird which is found about logs &c. but fiew small hawks or other smaller birds to be seen at this time Snakes, Lizzards, Snales bugs worms Spiders, flies & insects of different kinds are to be Seen in plenty at this time. The Squar, gave me a piece of Bread to day made of Some flower She had Cearfully kept for her child, and had unfortunately got wet The hunters killed only 3 hawks, saw 3 Elk but Could not git a Shot at them, The fowlers, killed 3 black ducks, with white Sharp bills, a brown Spot in their foward, Some white under the tail, which Short, and a fiew of the tips of the wing feathers white, Their toes are long Seperated and flaped, no Craw, keep in emence large flocks in the Shallow waters & feed on Grass &c.- Several men Complaining of being unwell to day—a Broock comes in to the bend above the 1st point above, and a river falls in the next nitch above this river is Small,—I observe rose bushes Pine, a kind of ash a Species of Beech and a Species of Maple, in addition to the pine Lorrel and under groth Common to the woods in this Lower Countrey the hills are not high & Slope to the river
November 30th, Saturday, 1805. Some rain and hail with breaks of fair weather for 1 or 2 hours during the night and until 9 o'clock this morning, when it cleared up nicely and the sun came out. I sent 5 men in a canoe to hunt fowl in the deep bend above the peninsula and 2 men into the thick woods to hunt elk. We dried all our wet items and the men were busy dressing their skins. I noticed very few small birds in this area, but there are great numbers of wild fowl. The large buzzards with white under their wings, gray and bald eagles, large red-tailed hawks, ravens, crows, and a small brown bird that can be found around logs, etc. But there are few small hawks or other smaller birds to be seen at this time. Snakes, lizards, snails, bugs, worms, spiders, flies, and various insects are abundant right now. The squaw gave me a piece of bread today made from some flour she had carefully saved for her child, which unfortunately got wet. The hunters only killed 3 hawks and saw 3 elk but couldn’t get a shot at them. The fowlers killed 3 black ducks with sharp white bills, a brown spot on their front, some white under the tail, which is short, and a few tips of the wing feathers are white. Their toes are long, separate, and webbed. They form immense large flocks in the shallow waters and feed on grass, etc. Several men complained of feeling unwell today. A brook flows into the bend above the first point, and a small river falls into the next notch above this one. I noticed rose bushes, pine, a kind of ash, a species of beech, and a species of maple, in addition to the common undergrowth like laurel found in the woods of this lower country. The hills are not high and slope down to the river.
[Clark, November 30, 1805]
Saturday 30th of November 1805 Some rain and hail with intervales of fair weather for the Space of one or two hours at a time dureing the night untill 9 oClock this morning, at which time it Cleared away and the Sun Shewn for ____ hours, Several men out hunting I Send 5 men in the bend above to hunt fowl &c. in a Canoe, employ all the others in drying our wet articles by the fire Several men Complain of a looseness and gripeing which I contribute to the diet, pounded fish mixed with Salt water, I derect that in future that the party mix the pounded fish with fresh water—The Squar gave me a piece of bread made of flour which She had reserved for her child and carefully Kept untill this time, which has unfortunately got wet, and a little Sour—this bread I eate with great Satisfaction, it being the only mouthfull I had tasted for Several months past. my hunters killed three Hawks, which we found fat and delicious, they Saw 3 Elk but Could not get a Shot at them. The fowlers killed 3 black Ducks with Sharp White beeks keep in large flocks & feed on Grass, they have no Craw and their toes are Seperate, Common in the U. States
Saturday, November 30, 1805 Some rain and hail with intervals of fair weather for one or two hours at a time during the night until 9 o'clock this morning, at which point it cleared up and the sun shone for ____ hours. Several men went out hunting, and I sent five men to the bend above to hunt for fowl, etc., in a canoe, while employing the others in drying our wet items by the fire. Several men complained of digestive issues and cramps, which I attributed to the diet of pounded fish mixed with salt water. I instructed that from now on, the party should mix the pounded fish with fresh water. The squaw gave me a piece of bread made from flour that she had saved for her child and had kept carefully until now, but unfortunately, it got wet and slightly sour. I ate this bread with great satisfaction, as it was the only bite I had tasted in several months. My hunters killed three hawks, which we found to be fat and delicious. They saw three elk but couldn’t get a shot at them. The fowlers killed three black ducks, which have sharp white beaks and usually stay in large flocks, feeding on grass. They don’t have a crop, and their toes are separate, which is common in the U.S.
The Chinnooks Cath ldh mah & others in this neighbourhood bury their dead in their Canoes. for this purpose 4 pieces of Split timber are Set erect on end, and sunk a fiew feet in the ground, each brace having their flat Sides opposit to each other and Sufficiently far assunder to admit the width of the Canoe in which the dead are to be deposited; through each of those perpindicular posts, at the hight of 6 feet a mortice is Cut, through which two bars of wood are incerted; on those Cross bars a Small Canoe is placed, in which the body is laid after beaing Carefully roled in a robe of Some dressed Skins; a paddle is also deposited with them; a larger Canoe is now reversed, overlaying and imbracing the Small one, and resting with its gunnals on the Cross bars; one or more large mats of flags or rushes are then rold. around the Canoe and the whole Securely lashed with a long Cord usially made of the bark of the arbar vita or white Cedar. on the Cross bars which Support the Canoes is frequently hung or laid various articles of Clothing Culinary utensils &c. we cannot understand them Sufficiently to make any enquiries relitive to their religious opinions, from their depositing Various articles with their dead, beleve in a State of future ixistance.
The Chinooks, along with others in this area, bury their dead in their canoes. For this, they set up four pieces of split timber vertically, sinking them a few feet into the ground, with each brace positioned opposite one another and far enough apart to fit the width of the canoe meant to hold the deceased. At a height of six feet, they cut a mortise through each of these vertical posts, through which two wooden bars are inserted. A small canoe is placed on these cross bars, where the body is laid after being carefully wrapped in a robe made from some dressed skins. A paddle is also included. A larger canoe is then turned upside down, covering and embracing the smaller one, resting on the cross bars. One or more large mats made of flags or rushes are then rolled around the canoe, and everything is securely tied with a long cord usually made from the bark of the arborvitae or white cedar. Various items of clothing, cooking utensils, etc., are often hung or placed on the cross bars supporting the canoes. We cannot understand them well enough to ask about their religious beliefs, but from the way they include various items with their dead, they seem to believe in some form of afterlife.
I walked on the point and observed rose bushes different Species of pine, a Spcies of ash, alder, a Species of wild Crab Loral and Several Species of under Broth Common to this lower part of the Columbia river- The hills on this Coast rise high and are thickly covered with lofty pine maney of which are 10 & 12 feet through and more than 200 feet high. hills have a Steep assent.
I walked along the point and observed rose bushes, different species of pine, a species of ash, alder, a species of wild crabapple, and several types of underbrush common to this lower part of the Columbia River. The hills on this coast rise high and are densely covered with tall pine trees, many of which are 10 to 12 feet wide and over 200 feet tall. The hills have a steep incline.
[Lewis, December 1, 1805]
December 1st 1805 Cloudy morning wind from the S. E. sent out the men to hunt and examin the country, they soon returned all except Drewyer and informed me that the wood was so thick it was almost impenetrable and that there was but little appearance of game; they had seen the track of one deer only and a few small grey squirrels. these suirrels are about the size of the red squirrel of the lakes and eastern Atlantic States, their bellies are of a redish yellow, or tanners ooze colour the tale flat and as long as the body eyes black and moderately large back and sides of a greyish brown the brier with a brown bark and three laves which put forth at the extremety of the twigs like the leaves of the blackbury brier, tho is a kind of shrub and rises sometimes to the hight of 10 feet the green brier yet in leaf; the ash with a remarkable large leaf; the large black alder. the large elder with skey blue buries. the broad leave shrub which grows something like the quill wood but has no joints, the leaf broad and deeply indented the bark peals hangs on the stem and is of a yelowish brown colour. the seven bark is also found here as is the common low cramburry-there is a wild crab apple which the natives eat this growth differs but little in appearance from that of the wild crab of the Atlantic States. but the fruit consists of little oval hurries which grow in clusters at the extremities of the twigs like the black haws. the fruit is of a brown colour, oval form and about double as large as the black haw; the rind is smoth and tough somewhat hard; the seed is like that of the wild crab and nearly as large; the pulp is soft of a pale yellow coulour; and when the fruit has been touched by the frost is not unpleasant, being an agreeable assed. the tree which bears a red burry in clusters of a round form and size of a red haw. the leaf like that of the small magnolia, and brark smoth and of a brickdust red coulour it appears to be of the evergreen kind.—half after one oclock Drewyer not yet arrived. heard him shoot 5 times just above us and am in hopes he has fallen in with a gang of elk.
December 1st, 1805 It was a cloudy morning with a southeast wind that sent the men out to hunt and explore the area. They soon returned, all except Drewyer, and informed me that the woods were so dense it was almost impossible to get through, and there was little sign of game. They had only seen one deer track and a few small gray squirrels. These squirrels are about the size of the red squirrels found in the lakes and eastern Atlantic States; their bellies are a reddish-yellow or tanner’s ooze color, their tails flat and as long as their bodies, their eyes are black and moderately large, and their backs and sides are a grayish-brown. The brier has brown bark and three leaves that grow at the ends of the twigs like the leaves of blackberries, though it is a type of shrub that can reach up to 10 feet high. The green brier is still in leaf; the ash has a remarkably large leaf; there's also the large black alder and the big elder with sky-blue berries. The broadleaf shrub grows somewhat like the quill wood but has no joints; its leaves are broad and deeply indented, its bark peels off, hangs on the stem, and is a yellowish-brown color. The seven bark is also found here, as is the common low cranberry. There is a wild crabapple that the natives eat; its appearance is very similar to the wild crab of the Atlantic States, but the fruit consists of small oval berries that grow in clusters at the ends of the twigs like black haws. The fruit is brown, oval, and about twice the size of the black haw; its skin is smooth and tough, somewhat hard; the seed resembles that of the wild crab and is nearly the same size; the pulp is soft and pale yellow, and when the fruit is touched by frost, it becomes pleasantly sweet, making it agreeable to eat. The tree bears red berries in clusters that are round in shape and similar in size to red haws. The leaves resemble those of small magnolias, and its bark is smooth and brickdust red, indicating it may be an evergreen. It is now half past one o'clock, and Drewyer has not yet arrived. I heard him shoot five times just above us and hope he has come across a herd of elk.
[Clark, December 1, 1805]
December 1st Sunday 1805 Cloudy windey morning wind from the East, Sent out 2 hunters in the woods, I intended to take 5 men in a Canoe and hunt the marshey Islands above, found the wind too high & returned to partake of the dried fish, The day Some what Cooler than usial, but Scercely perceveable. began to rain at Sun Set and Continued half the night. my hunters returned without any thing Saw 2 gang of Elk a disagreeable Situation, men all employed in mending their leather Clothes, Socks &c. and Dressing Some Leather. The Sea which is imedeately in front roars like a repeeted roling thunder and have rored in that way ever Since our arrival in its borders which is now 24 Days Since we arrived in Sight of the Great Western Ocian, I cant Say Pasific as Since I have Seen it, it has been the reverse. Elegant Canoes
December 1st, Sunday, 1805. It was a cloudy, windy morning, with the wind coming from the East. I sent out 2 hunters into the woods. I planned to take 5 men in a canoe to hunt the marshy islands upstream, but the wind was too strong, so I returned to eat some dried fish. The day was a bit cooler than usual, but not noticeably so. It started to rain at sunset and continued for half the night. My hunters came back empty-handed; they saw 2 groups of elk, which was disappointing. The men were all busy mending their leather clothes, socks, etc., and working on some leather. The sea directly in front of us roars like repeated rolling thunder and has been doing so ever since we arrived here, which was 24 days ago when we first saw the Great Western Ocean. I can't call it peaceful, as it has been anything but since I got here. Elegant canoes.
[Clark, December 1, 1805]
Sunday December 1st 1805 A cloudy windey morning wind from the East, dispatched two hunters, I deturmined to take a Canoe & a fiew men and hunt the marshey Islands above Point William, the Wind rose So high that I could not proceed, and returned to partake the dried fish, which is our Standing friend, began to rain hard at Sun Set and Continud. my hunters returned without any thing haveing Seen 2 parcels of elk men all employed to day in mending their leather Clothes, Shoes &c. and Dressing leather.
Sunday, December 1st, 1805 A cloudy, windy morning with the wind coming from the east. I sent out two hunters, and I decided to take a canoe and a few men to hunt the marshy islands above Point William. The wind picked up so much that I couldn't proceed, so I returned to eat some dried fish, which is our reliable food source. It started to rain hard at sunset and continued. My hunters returned empty-handed after seeing two groups of elk, while everyone else spent the day repairing their leather clothes, shoes, etc., and preparing leather.
The emence Seas and waves which breake on the rocks & Coasts to the S W. & N W roars like an emence fall at a distance, and this roaring has continued ever Since our arrival in the neighbourhood of the Sea Coast which has been 24 days Since we arrived in Sight of the Great Western; (for I cannot Say Pacific) Ocian as I have not Seen one pacific day Since my arrival in its vicinity, and its waters are forming and petially perpetually breake with emenc waves on the Sands and rockey Coasts, tempestous and horiable. I have no account of Capt. Lewis Since he left me.
The immense seas and waves that crash against the rocks and coasts to the southwest and northwest roar like a giant waterfall in the distance, and this roaring has continued ever since we arrived near the coastline, which has been 24 days since we first saw the Great Western; (because I can’t call it the Pacific) Ocean as I haven’t experienced one calm day since I got close to it, and its waters are constantly forming and violently crashing with huge waves on the sandy and rocky coasts, stormy and dreadful. I haven't heard anything from Capt. Lewis since he left me.
[Clark, December 2, 1805]
December 2nd Monday 1805 Cloudy and Some little rain this morning I despatched 3 men to hunt and 2 and my Servent in a Canoe to a Creek above to try & Catch Some fish- I am verry unwell the drid fish which is my only diet does not agree with me and Several of the men Complain of a lax, and weakness—I expect Capt. Lewis will return to day with the hunters and let us know if Elk or deer Can be found Sufficent for us to winter on, If he does not come I Shall move from this place, to one of better prospects for game &c. Joseph Fields came home with the marrow bones of an Elk which he had killed 6 miles distant, I sent out 6 men in a canoe for the meat, the evening being late they did not return this night, which proved fair moon Shineing night—This is the first Elk we have killed on this Side the rockey mounts a great deal of Elk Sign in the neighbourhood
December 2nd, Monday, 1805 It’s cloudy with a bit of rain this morning. I sent 3 men to hunt and 2 along with my servant in a canoe to a creek upstream to try to catch some fish. I’m feeling really unwell; the dried fish, which is my only food, isn’t sitting well with me, and several of the men are complaining of diarrhea and weakness. I expect Captain Lewis will return today with the hunters and let us know if we can find enough elk or deer to get us through the winter. If he doesn’t come back, I’ll move from this spot to somewhere with better prospects for game, etc. Joseph Fields returned with the marrow bones of an elk he killed 6 miles away. I sent out 6 men in a canoe to retrieve the meat, but since it got late, they didn’t come back tonight, which turned out to be a clear, moonlit night. This is the first elk we’ve killed on this side of the Rocky Mountains, and there are many signs of elk in the area.
[Clark, December 2, 1805]
Monday 2nd December 1805 Cloudy with Some rain this morning I Send out three men to hunt & 2 & my man york in a Canoe up the Ke-ke-mar-que Creek in Serch of fish and fowl—I feel verry unwell, and have entirely lost my appetite for the Dried pounded fish which is in fact the cause of my disorder at present—The men are generally Complaining of a lax and gripeing—In the evening Joseph Field came in with the Marrow bones of a elk which he killed at 6 miles distant, this welcome news to us. I dispatched Six men in a empty Canoe with Jo. mediately for the elk which he Said was about 3 miles from the water this is the first Elk which has been killd. on this Side of the rockey mountains—Jo Fields givs me an account of a great deel of Elk Sign & Says he Saw 2 Gangs of those Animals in his rout, but it rained So hard that he could not Shoot them—The party up the Creek returned without any thing and informs me they could not See any fish in the Creek to kill and the fowls were too wild to be killed, this must
Monday, December 2, 1805 It was cloudy with some rain this morning. I sent out three men to hunt and two, along with my man York, in a canoe up Ke-ke-mar-que Creek to look for fish and birds. I feel really unwell and have completely lost my appetite for the dried pounded fish, which is actually what's causing my discomfort right now. The men are generally complaining of a lax stomach and cramps. In the evening, Joseph Field came back with marrow bones from an elk he killed six miles away, which was welcome news for us. I immediately dispatched six men in an empty canoe with Jo to get the elk, which he said was about three miles from the water. This is the first elk that’s been killed on this side of the Rocky Mountains. Jo Fields told me about a lot of elk signs and said he saw two herds of those animals on his way, but it was raining so hard that he couldn't shoot them. The party that went up the creek returned empty-handed and informed me they didn't see any fish to catch, and the birds were too wild to shoot. This must
[Clark, December 3, 1805]
December 3rd Tuesday 1805 a fair windey morning wind from the East, the men Sent after an Elk yesterday returnd. with an Elk which revived the Sperits of my men verry much, I am unwell and cannot Eate, the flesh O! how disagreeable my Situation, a plenty of meat and incaple of eateing any—an Indian Canoe Came down with 8 Indians in it from the upper village, I gave a fish hook for a fiew Wap-e-to roots, which I eate in a little Elk Supe, The Indians proceeded on down. wind Confines to blow, and Serjt. Pryor & Gibson who went to hunt yesterday has not returnd. as yet I marked my name & the day of the month and year on a large Pine tree on this Peninsella & by land Capt William Clark December 3rd 1805. By Land. U States in 1804 & 1805"—The Squar Broke the two Shank bones of the Elk after the marrow was taken out, boiled them & extracted a Pint of Greese or tallow from them—Serjt. Pryor & Gibson returned after night and informed me they had been lost the greater part of the time they were out, and had killed 6 Elk which they left lying haveing taken out their interals. Some rain this afternoon
December 3rd, Tuesday, 1805: It’s a nice windy morning with a breeze coming from the East. The men I sent out to get elk yesterday returned with one, which really boosted my men’s spirits. I’m feeling unwell and can't eat. Oh, how unpleasant my situation is—plenty of meat around, and I can't eat any of it. An Indian canoe came down with eight Indians from the upper village, and I traded a fish hook for a few wapato roots, which I had in a little elk soup. The Indians continued downstream. The wind keeps blowing, and Sergeant Pryor and Gibson, who went hunting yesterday, still haven’t returned. I marked my name and the date on a large pine tree on this peninsula: "By land, Capt. William Clark, December 3rd, 1805. By land, U.S. in 1804 & 1805." The squaw broke the two shank bones of the elk after the marrow was taken out, boiled them, and extracted a pint of grease or tallow from them. Sergeant Pryor and Gibson returned after dark and told me they had gotten lost for most of the time they were out but managed to kill six elk, which they left behind after removing their insides. It rained a little this afternoon.
[Clark, December 3, 1805]
Tuesday 3d December 1805 a fair windey morning wind from the East the men returned with the Elk which revived the Spirits of my party verry much I am Still unwell and Can't eate even the flesh of the Elk. an Indian Canoe of 8 Indians Came too, those Inds. are on their way down to the Chit Sops with Wap pa to to barter with that nation, I purchasd. a fiew of those roots for which I gave Small fish hooks, those roots I eate with a little Elks Soupe which I found gave me great relief I found the roots both nurishing and as a check to my disorder. The Indians proceeded on down through emence high waves maney times their Canoe was entirely out of Sight before they were 1/2 a mile distance. Serjt. Pryor & Gibson who went hunting yesterday has not returned untill after night, they informed me that they had killed 6 Elk at a great distance which they left lying, haveing taken out their interals that they had been lost and in their ramble saw a great deel of Elk Sign. after eateing the marrow out of two Shank bones of an Elk, the Squar choped the bones fine boiled them and extracted a pint of Grease, which is Superior to the tallow of the animal. Some rain this evening I marked my name on a large pine tree imediately on the isthmus William Clark December 3rd 1805. By Land from the U. States in 1804 & 1805.
Tuesday, December 3, 1805, was a nice, windy morning with the wind coming from the east. The men returned with the elk, which really lifted the spirits of my party. I'm still feeling unwell and can't eat even the elk meat. An Indian canoe with eight Indians came by; they are on their way down to the Chit Sops with Wap pa to trade with that nation. I bought a few of those roots, giving small fish hooks in exchange. I ate those roots with a little elk soup, which provided me with great relief. I found the roots both nourishing and helpful for my illness. The Indians continued on, battling through immense waves; many times, their canoe was completely out of sight before they were half a mile away. Sergeant Pryor and Gibson, who went hunting yesterday, didn't return until after dark. They told me they had killed six elk at a considerable distance and left them lying after they removed the innards. They had gotten lost, but during their wandering, they saw a lot of elk signs. After eating the marrow out of two elk shank bones, the squaw chopped the bones up, boiled them, and extracted a pint of grease, which is better than the animal's tallow. It rained a bit this evening. I marked my name on a large pine tree right on the isthmus: William Clark, December 3rd, 1805. By land from the U.S. in 1804 and 1805.
[Clark, December 4, 1805]
December 4th Wednesday 180151 Some little rain all the last night and this morning after day the rain increased and Continued
December 4th, Wednesday, 1801. A little rain fell all through the night and this morning. After that, the rain picked up and continued.
I despatched Serjt. Pryer & 6 men to the Elk which he had killed yesterday, with directions to Save the meet and take loads to the River below in the next great bend—a Spring tide which rose 2 feet higher than Common flud tides, and high water at 11 oClock to day—wind from the S. E in the after noon hard wind from South—rained all day, moderately the Swells too high for me to proceed down, as I intended, I feel my self Something better and have an appetite to eate Something
I sent Sergeant Pryer and six men to the Elk he killed yesterday, with instructions to save the meat and take it down to the river in the next big bend—a spring tide that rose two feet higher than usual flood tides, with high water at 11 o'clock today. The wind was coming from the southeast in the afternoon, blowing hard from the south. It rained all day, moderately, and the swells were too high for me to proceed down as I planned. I feel a bit better and have an appetite to eat something.
[Clark, December 4, 1805]
Wednesday 4th December 1805 Some rain all the last night, this morning it increased with the wind from the S. E. I Set out Sergiant Pryor and 6 men to the Elk he had killed with directions to Carry the meat to a bay which he informed me was below and as he believed at no great distance from the Elk, and I Should proceed on to that bay as Soon as the wind would lay a little and the tide went out in the evening—the Smoke is exceedingly disagreeable and painfull to my eyes, my appetite has returned and I feel much better of my late complaint—a Spring tide to day rose 2 feet higher than Common flood tides and high water at 11 oClock—Hard wind from the South this evening, rained moderately all day and the waves too high for me to proceed in Safty to the bay as I intended, in Some part of which I expected would be convenient for us to make winter quarters, the reports of seven huntes agreeing that elke were in great abundance about the Bay below. no account of Capt. Lewis. I fear Some accident has taken place in his craft or party
Wednesday, December 4, 1805 There was some rain all night, and this morning it picked up with the wind coming from the southeast. I sent Sergeant Pryor and six men to collect the elk he had killed, with instructions to take the meat to a bay that he said was nearby, and I planned to head there as soon as the wind calmed down a bit and the tide went out in the evening. The smoke is really unpleasant and painful for my eyes. My appetite has come back, and I feel much better from my recent illness. The spring tide today rose two feet higher than the usual flood tides, with high water at 11 o'clock. There was a strong wind from the south this evening, and it rained moderately all day. The waves are too high for me to safely get to the bay as I had planned, which I was hoping would be a good spot for us to set up winter quarters. The reports from seven hunters confirm that elk are abundant in the bay below. There's no news from Captain Lewis; I worry that something might have happened to him or his group.
[Clark, December 5, 1805]
December 5th Thursday 1805 Som hard Showers of rain last night, this morn Cloudy and drisley rain, in the bay above the Showers appear harder. High water to day at 12 oClock this tide is 2 Ins. higher than that of yesterday all our Stores again wet by the hard Showers of last night Capt Lewis's long delay below has been the cause of no little uneasiness on my part for him, a 1000 conjectures has crouded into my mind respecting his probable Situation & Safty—-rained hard. Capt Lewis returned haveing found a good Situation and Elk Suffient to winter on, his party killed 6 Elk & 5 Deer in their absence in Serch of a Situation and game
December 5th, Thursday, 1805. We had some heavy rain showers last night. This morning is cloudy with light, drizzly rain, and it looks like the showers are heavier over the bay. High tide today is at 12 o'clock, and it's 2 inches higher than yesterday's tide. All our supplies are wet again from the heavy rain last night. Captain Lewis's long delay below has caused me quite a bit of worry about him. I've had a thousand thoughts crowding my mind about his possible situation and safety. It rained hard. Captain Lewis returned after finding a good spot and enough elk to get us through the winter. His team managed to kill 6 elk and 5 deer while they were away searching for a suitable location and game.
Rain continued all the after pt. of the day accompanied with hard wind from the S W. which provents our moveing from this Camp.
Rain continued all afternoon, accompanied by strong winds from the southwest, which prevents us from moving from this camp.
[Clark, December 5, 1805]
Thursday 5th of December 1805 Some hard Showers of rain last night, this morning Cloudy and drisley at Some little distant above the isthmus the rain is much harder. high water to day at 12 this tide is 2 inches higher than that of yesterday. all our Stores and bedding are again wet by the hard rain of last night. Capt. Lewis's long delay below, has been the Sorce of no little uneasness on my part of his probable Situation and Safty, the repeeted rains and hard winds which blows from the S, W. renders it impossible for me to move with loaded Canoes along an unknown Coast we are all wet & disagreeable; the party much better of indispositions-. Capt. Lewis returned with 3 men in the Canoe and informs me that he thinks that a Sufficient number of Elk may be prcured Convenient to a Situation on a Small river which falls into a Small bay a Short distance below, that his party had Killed 6 Elk & 5 Deer in his rout, two men of his party left behind to Secure the Elk this was verry Satisfactory information to all the party. we accordingly deturmined to proceed on to the Situation which Capt. Lewis had Viewed as Soon as the wind and weather Should permit and Comence building huts &c.
Thursday, December 5, 1805. We had some heavy rain last night, and this morning is cloudy and drizzly. A little ways above the isthmus, the rain is much stronger. High water today is at noon, and this tide is 2 inches higher than yesterday's. All our supplies and bedding are wet again from the heavy rain last night. Captain Lewis's long delay below has caused me some concern about his situation and safety. The repeated rain and strong winds coming from the southwest make it impossible for me to move loaded canoes along an unfamiliar coast. We are all wet and uncomfortable, though the group is feeling better health-wise. Captain Lewis returned with three men in the canoe and informed me that he thinks a sufficient number of elk can be obtained near a small river that flows into a small bay not far below. His party killed 6 elk and 5 deer during their route, and he left two men behind to secure the elk. This was very encouraging news for everyone in the group. We decided to move to the location Captain Lewis scouted as soon as the wind and weather allow, and start building huts, etc.
[Clark, December 6, 1805]
December 6th Friday 1805 Wind blew hard all the last night, and a moderate rain, the waves verry high, This morning the wind which is Still from the S W increased and rained Continued all day, at Dusk wind Shifted to the North and it Cleared up and became fare, High water to day at 12 oClock & 13 Inches higher than yesterday. we were obliged to move our Camp out of the Water on high grown all wet.
December 6th, Friday, 1805. The wind blew hard all night, and there was moderate rain; the waves were very high. This morning, the wind, still coming from the southwest, picked up, and it rained all day. At dusk, the wind shifted to the north, the skies cleared up, and it became fair. High water today was at 12 o'clock and 13 inches higher than yesterday. We had to move our camp out of the water onto higher ground because everything was wet.
[Clark, December 6, 1805]
Friday 6th of December 1805 The wind blew hard all the last night with a moderate rain, the waves verry high, the wind increased & from the S. W. and the rain Continued all day, about Dark the wind Shifted to the North cleared away and became fair weather.
Friday, December 6, 1805 The wind blew hard all last night with moderate rain; the waves were very high, the wind increased from the S.W., and the rain continued all day. Around dark, the wind shifted to the north, cleared up, and it became fair weather.
The high tide of today is 13 inches higher than yesterday, and obliged us to move our Camp which was in a low Situation, on higher ground Smoke exceedingly disagreeable.
The high tide today is 13 inches higher than yesterday, which forced us to move our camp from a low area to higher ground. The smoke is really unpleasant.
[Clark, December 7, 1805]
December 7th Saturday 1805 Some rain from 10 to 12 last night this morning fair, we Set out at 8 oClock down to the place Capt Lewis pitched on for winter quarters, when he was down proceeded on against the tide at the point No. 2 we met our men Sent down after meet
December 7th, Saturday, 1805 Some rain from 10 to 12 last night. This morning was clear. We set out at 8 o'clock down to the spot Captain Lewis chose for winter quarters. Once there, we continued on against the tide at point No. 2 where we met our men sent down after meat.
To point Adams is West
To pt. Disapointment N 75 W
To pt. Disappointment N 75 W
They informed me that they found the Elk after being lost in the woods for one Day and part of another, the most of the meat was Spoiled, they distance was So great and uncertain and the way bad, they brought only the Skins, york was left behind by Some accident which detained us Some time eer he Came up after passing round the pt. No. 2 in verry high swells, we Stopd & Dined in the commencement of a bay, after which proceeded on around the bay to S E. & assended a Creek 8 miles to a high pt. & Camped haveing passed arm makeing up to our left into the countrey
They told me that they found the elk after being lost in the woods for one day and part of another. Most of the meat had spoiled because the distance was so great and uncertain, and the path was bad. They only brought back the skins. York was left behind due to some accident that delayed us for a while before he caught up after going around Point No. 2 in very high swells. We stopped and had lunch at the start of a bay, and then continued around the bay to the southeast. We ascended a creek for eight miles to a high point and camped, having passed an arm that turned left into the countryside.
Mt. St. Helens is the mountain we mistook for Mt. Reeaneer
Mt. St. Helens is the mountain we confused with Mt. Rainier.
receved 2 Small Brooks on the East, extencive marshes at this place of Encampment We propose to build & pass the winter, The situation is in the Center of as we conceve a hunting Countrey—This day is fair except about 12 oClock at which time Some rain and a hard wind imedeately after we passed the point from the N. E which Continued for a about 2 hours and Cleared up. no meat
received 2 small streams on the east, extensive marshes at this campsite. We plan to build and spend the winter here. The location is, as we believe, in the center of a hunting area. The day is nice except around noon when we had some rain and a strong wind that started right after we passed the point from the northeast, which lasted for about 2 hours before clearing up. No meat.
[Clark, December 7, 1805]
Saturday 7th of December 1805 Some rain from 10 to 12 last night, this morning fair, have every thing put on board the Canoes and Set out to the place Capt Lewis had viewed and thought well Situated for winter quarters—we proceeded on against the tide to a point about ____ miles here we met Sergt Pryor and his party returning to the Camp we had left without any meat, the waves verry verry high, as much as our Canoes Could bear rendered it impossible to land for the party, we proceeded on around the point into the bay and landed to take brackfast on 2 Deer which had been killed & hung up, one of which we found the other had been taken off by some wild animal probably Panthors or the Wildcat of this Countrey here all the party of Serjt Pryors joined us except my man york, who had Stoped to rite his load and missed his way, Sergt Pryor informed us that he had found the Elk, which was much further from the bay than he expected, that they missed the way for one day and a half, & when he found the Elk they were mostly Spoiled, and they only brought the Skins of 4 of the Elk after brackfast I delayed about half an hour before York Came up, and then proceeded around this Bay which I have taken the liberty of calling Meriwethers Bay the Cristian name of Capt. Lewis who no doubt was the 1st white man who ever Surveyed this Bay, we assended a river which falls in on the South Side of this Bay 3 miles to the first point of high land on the West Side, the place Capt. Lewis had viewed and formed in a thick groth of pine about 200 yards from the river, this situation is on a rise about 30 feet higher than the high tides leavel and thickly Covered with lofty pine. this is certainly the most eligable Situation for our purposes of any in its neighbourhood.
Saturday, December 7, 1805 We had some rain from 10 to 12 last night; this morning is fair. We loaded everything onto the canoes and set out for the spot Capt. Lewis had scouted and thought was well-suited for winter quarters. We made our way against the tide to a point about ____ miles away, where we encountered Sergt. Pryor and his party returning to the camp we had left without any meat. The waves were extremely high, making it impossible for the party to land. We continued around the point into the bay and landed to have breakfast on two deer that had been killed and hung up. We found one, but the other had been taken away by some wild animal, likely panthers or wildcats from this area. All of Sergt. Pryor's group joined us except my man York, who had stopped to rearrange his load and got lost. Sergt. Pryor told us that he found the elk, which was much farther from the bay than he expected. They had lost their way for a day and a half, and by the time they found the elk, most of them were spoiled, so they only brought back the hides of four of the elk. After breakfast, I waited about half an hour for York to catch up, and then we continued around this bay, which I've taken the liberty of naming Meriwether's Bay after Capt. Lewis, who was undoubtedly the first white man to survey this bay. We ascended a river that flows into the south side of this bay, three miles to the first point of high land on the west side, the location Capt. Lewis had seen, nestled in a thick grove of pine about 200 yards from the river. This spot is on a rise about 30 feet higher than high tide level and is densely covered with tall pines. This is certainly the best location for our purposes in the area.
Meriwethers Bay is about 4 miles across deep & receves 2 rivers the Kil how-d-nah-kle and the Ne tul and Several Small Creeks—we had a hard wind from the N. E. and Some rain about 12 oClock to day which lasted 2 hours and Cleared away. From the Point above Meriwethers Bay
Meriwethers Bay is about 4 miles wide and receives 2 rivers, the Kil how-d-nah-kle and the Ne tul, along with several small creeks. We had a strong wind from the northeast and some rain around noon today, which lasted for 2 hours before clearing up. From the point above Meriwethers Bay
to Point Adams is West
to Point Adams is West
to point Disapointment is N. 75° W
to point Disappointment is N. 75° W
[Clark, December 8, 1805]
December 8th Sunday 1805 a Cloudy morning, I took 5 men and Set out to the Sea to find the nearest place & make a way, to prevent our men getting lost and find a place to make Salt, Steered S 62° W at 2 miles passed the head of a Brook running to the right, the lands good roleing much falling timber, lofty Pine of the Spruce kind, & Some fur, passed over a high hill & to a Creek which we kept down 11/2 miles and left it to our right, Saw fish in this Creek & Elk & Bear tracks on it, passed over a ridge to a low marshey bottom which we Crossed thro water & thick brush for 1/2 a mile to the Comencement of a Prarie which wavers, Covered with grass & Sackay Commis, at 1/2 Crossed a marsh 200 yds wide, boggey and arrived at a Creek which runs to the right. Saw a gange of Elk on the opposit Side below, rafted the Creek, with much dificulty & followed the Elk thro, emence bogs, & over 4 Small Knobs in the bogs about 4 miles to the South & Killed an Elk, and formed a Camp, Covered our Selves with the Elk Skins. the left of us Bogs & a lake or pond those bogs Shake, much Cramberry growing amongst the moss. Some rain this evening we made a harty Supper of the Elk & hung up the balsa
December 8th, Sunday, 1805. It was a cloudy morning. I took 5 men and set out to the sea to find the nearest place and create a path, to prevent our men from getting lost and to find a place to make salt. We steered S 62° W for 2 miles and passed the head of a brook on our right. The land was good, rolling with lots of fallen timber, tall spruce pines, and some fir trees. We crossed over a high hill and reached a creek, which we followed for 1.5 miles before leaving it to our right. We saw fish in this creek and tracks from elk and bear. We passed over a ridge to a low marshy bottom, which we crossed through water and thick brush for half a mile to the beginning of a prairie that was wavy, covered with grass and sackay commis. At half a mile, we crossed a marsh 200 yards wide, which was boggy, and arrived at a creek that ran to the right. We saw a herd of elk on the opposite side below, crossed the creek with much difficulty, and followed the elk through immense bogs, and over 4 small knobs in the bogs for about 4 miles to the south, where we killed an elk and set up camp. We covered ourselves with the elk skins. To our left were bogs and a lake or pond where the bogs shook, with a lot of cranberries growing among the moss. We had some rain this evening and made a hearty supper from the elk and hung up the balsa.
[Clark, December 8, 1805]
Sunday December 8th 1805 Fort Clatsop We haveing fixed on this Situation as the one best Calculated for our Winter quarters I deturmin'd to go as direct a Course as I could to the Sea Coast which we Could here roar and appeared to be at no great distance from us, my principal object is to look out a place to make Salt, blaze the road or rout that they men out hunting might find the direction to the fort if they Should get lost in cloudy weather-and See the probibillity of game in that direction, for the Support of the Men, we Shall Send to make Salt, I took with me five men and Set out on a Course S 60 W proceeded on a dividing ridge through lofty piney land much falling timber. passed the heads of 2 brooks one of them had wide bottoms which was over flown & we waded to our knees crossed 2 Slashes and arrived at a Creek in a open ridgey prarie covered with Sackacomma this Creek we were obliged to raft, which is about 60 yards over and runs in a direction to Point adams, we discovered a large gange of Elk in the open lands, and we prosued them through verry bad Slashes and Small ponds about 3 miles, Killed one and camped on a Spot Scercely large enough to lie Clear of the Water. it is almost incredeable to assurt the bogs which those animals Can pass through, I prosue'd this gang of Elk through bogs which the wate of a man would Shake for 1/2 an Acre, and maney places I Sunk into the mud and water up to my hips without finding any bottom on the trale of those Elk. Those bogs are Covered with a kind of moss among which I observe an ebundance of Cramberries. in those Slashes Small Knobs are promisquisly Scattered about which are Steep and thickly Covered with pine Common to the Countrey & Lorel. we made a Camp of the Elk Skin to keep off the rain which Continued to fall, the Small Knob on which we Camped did not afford a Sufficiency of dry wood for our fire, we collected what dry wood we Could and what Sticks we Could Cut down with the Tomahawks, which made us a tolerable fire.
Sunday, December 8th, 1805 Fort Clatsop We decided this location was the best choice for our winter quarters, so I determined to head directly to the coast, which we could hear roaring and seemed to be not far from us. My main goal is to find a spot to make salt, blaze a trail for the men out hunting so they could find their way back if they got lost in cloudy weather, and check the potential for game in that direction for the supplies of the men we’ll send to make salt. I took five men with me and set out on a course of S 60 W, moving along a dividing ridge through tall, pine-covered land with a lot of fallen timber. We passed the heads of two brooks; one of them had wide bottoms that were flooded, and we waded through it up to our knees. We crossed two slashes and arrived at a creek in an open, grassy prairie covered with sackacomma. We had to raft across this creek, which is about 60 yards wide, and it flows toward Point Adams. We spotted a large group of elk in the open fields and pursued them through very difficult slashes and small ponds for about 3 miles. We killed one and set up camp on a spot barely large enough to stay out of the water. It's almost unbelievable how much bog these animals can traverse. I followed this group of elk through bogs that would shake a man for half an acre, and in many places, I sank into the mud and water up to my hips without finding any solid ground on the trail of those elk. These bogs are covered with a kind of moss, and I noticed there’s an abundance of cranberries. In these slashes, small hills are scattered about, steep and thickly covered with pine, common to the area, as well as laurel. We made a camp of elk skin to keep off the rain, which kept falling. The small hill we camped on didn’t provide enough dry wood for our fire, so we collected what dry wood we could find and cut down some sticks with tomahawks, which gave us a decent fire.
[Clark, December 9, 1805]
December 9th Monday 1805 rained all the last night we are all wet, Send 2 men in pursute of the Elk & with the other 3 I Set out with a view to find the Ocian in our first direction, which Can be at no great Distance, I crossed 3 Slashes by wadeing to my knees & was prevented proceeding by the 4th which was a pond of 200 yds. we. I went around, and was Stoped by a 5th which apd. to be a rung Stream to the right. I then returned to the raft and recrossd. & proceeded down the Stream I first Struck about 2 miles & met 3 Indians, who informed me they lived on the See cost at a Short distance, I de-termd. to accompany them to their vilg. & we Set out, crossed the Stream, and 2 of the Indians took the Canoe over the wavering open rich plains for 1/2 a mile and we Crossed the same stream which run to the left, we then left the canoe and proceeded to the Same Stream which runs to the right and empties its Self into the See here I found their vilg. 4 Lodges on the west bank of this little river which is here 70 yards wide, Crossed in a Canoe & was invited to a lodge by a young Chief was treated great Politeness, we had new mats to Set on, and himself and wife produced for us to eate, fish, Lickorish, & black roots, on neet Small mats, and Cramberries & Sackacomey berris, in bowls made of horn, Supe made of a kind of bread made of berries common to this Countrey which they gave me in a neet wooden trencher, with a Cockle Shell to eate it with It began to rain and with a tremendious storm from the S. W. which lasted untill 10 oClock P M—when I was disposd to go to Sleep 2 neet mats was produced & I lay on them but the flees were So troublesom that I Slept but little Those people has 2 plays which they are fond of one is with a Been which they pass from one hand into the other, and the oponent guess on this game the resquist nubr of the white Beeds which is the principal property—they other game is with round Pieces of wood much the Shape of the ____ Backgammon which they role thro between 2 pins.
December 9th, Monday, 1805. It rained all night and we're all soaked. I sent 2 men after the elk, while the other 3 and I set out to find the ocean in our initial direction, which can't be too far away. I crossed 3 streams by wading to my knees but couldn't go further because of the 4th, which was a pond about 200 yards wide. I went around it and was stopped by a 5th stream that seemed to be a running stream to the right. I then returned to the raft, crossed back, and headed down the stream I first encountered for about 2 miles until I met 3 Native Americans. They told me they lived on the coastline just a short distance away, so I decided to go with them to their village. We set off, crossed the stream, and 2 of the Indians took the canoe over the wavy open fields for half a mile before we crossed the same stream that flowed to the left. We then left the canoe and followed the same stream which flowed to the right and emptied into the sea. There, I found their village, consisting of 4 lodges on the west bank of this little river, which is 70 yards wide here. I crossed in a canoe and was invited to a lodge by a young chief who treated us with great politeness. We had new mats to sit on, and he and his wife prepared fish, licorice, and black roots on neat small mats, along with cranberries and sackacomey berries in bowls made of horn. The soup was made from a type of bread made from berries common to this area, served in a neat wooden platter with a cockle shell to eat it with. It started to rain with a tremendous storm from the southwest that lasted until 10 PM. When I was ready to sleep, they provided 2 neat mats for me to lie on, but the fleas were so bothersome that I hardly slept. Those people have 2 games they enjoy: one involves a bean that they pass from one hand to the other, and the opponent guesses the correct number of white beads, which is the main focus of the game. The other game uses round pieces of wood shaped like the backgammon pieces, which they roll through between 2 pins.
[Clark, December 9, 1805]
Monday 9th December 1805 rained all the last night we are all wet, I directed 2 hunters Drewyer & Shannon to go in pursute of the Elk, with the other 3 men I determined to proceed on to the Ocian, & Set out on a Westerley direction Crossed 3 Slashes and arived at a Creek which I could not Cross as it was deep and no wood to make a raft, I proceeded down this Creek a Short distance and found that I was in a fork of the Creek, I then returned to raft on which we had Crossed the day. crossed and kept down about one mile and met 3 Indians loaded with fresh Salmon which they had Giged in the Creek I crossed yesterday in the hills, those indians made Signs that they had a town on the Seacoast at no great distance, and envited me to go to their town which envitation I axcepted and accompand. them, they had a Canoe hid in the Creek which I had just before rafted which I had not observed, we crossed in this little Canoe just large enough to carry 3 men an their loads after Crossing 2 of the Indians took the Canoe on theire Sholders and Carried it across to the other Creek about 1/4 of a mile, we Crossed the 2d Creek and proceeded on to the mouth of the Creek which makes a great bend above the mouth of this Creek or to the S. is 3 houses and about 12 families of the Clat Sop Nation, we cross to those houses, which were built on the S. exposur of the hill, Sunk into the ground about 4 feet the walls roof & gable ends are of Split pine boards, the dotes Small with a ladder to decend to the iner part of the house, the fires are 2 in the middle of the house their beads ar all around raised about 21/2 feet from the bottom flore all covered with mats and under those beads was Stored their bags baskets and useless mats, those people treated me with extrodeanary friendship, one man attached himself to me as Soon as I entered the hut, Spred down new mats for me to Set on, gave me fish berries rutes &c. on Small neet platteers of rushes to eate which was repeated, all the Men of the other houses Came and Smoked with me Those people appeared much neeter in their diat than Indians are Comonly, and frequently wash theer faces and hands—in the eveng an old woman presented a bowl made of a light Coloured horn a kind of Surup made of Dried berries which is common to this Countrey which the natives Call Shele wele this Surup I though was pleasent, they Gave me Cockle Shells to eate a kind of Seuip made of bread of the Shele well berries mixed with roots in which they presented in neet trenchers made of wood. a flock of Brant lit in the Creek which was 70 yds wide I took up my Small rifle and Shot one which astonished those people verry much, they plunged into the Creek and brought the brant on Shorein the evening it began to rain and Continud accompanied with a Violent wind from the S. W. untill 10 oClock P.M. those people have a Singular game which they are verry fond of and is performed with Something about the Size of a large been which they pass from, one hand into the other with great dexterity dureing which time they Sing, and ocasionally, hold out their hands for those who Chuse to risque their property to guess which hand the been is in-; the individual who has the been is a banker & opposed to all in the room. on this game they risque their beeds & other parts of their most valuable effects—this amusement has occupied about 3 hours of this evening, Several of the lodge in which I am in have lost all the beeds which they had about them—they have one other game which a man attempted to Show me, I do not properly understand it, they make use of maney peces about the Shape and size of Backgammon Pices which they role through between two pins Stuck up at certain distancies &.—when I was Disposed to go to Sleep the man who had been most attentive named Cus-ka-lah producd 2 new mats and Spred them near the fire, and derected his wife to go to his bead which was the Signal for all to retire which they did emediately. I had not been long on my mats before I was attacked most violently by the flees and they kept up a close Siege dureing the night
Monday, December 9, 1805, it rained all night, and we were all soaked. I sent two hunters, Drewyer and Shannon, to track the elk, while I decided to continue on to the ocean with the other three men. We set off in a western direction, crossed three slashes, and arrived at a creek that I couldn't cross because it was deep and there was no wood to make a raft. I went down the creek a short distance and found that I was at a fork. Then I returned to the raft we had used earlier to cross. After crossing, we kept heading down the creek for about a mile and met three Indians who were carrying fresh salmon they had speared in the creek I had crossed yesterday in the hills. The Indians signaled that they had a village on the coast not far away and invited me to their town, which I accepted and accompanied them. They had a canoe hidden in the creek that I had just crossed, which I hadn't noticed before. We crossed in this small canoe, just big enough for three men and their loads. After crossing, two of the Indians took the canoe on their shoulders and carried it across to the other creek, about a quarter-mile away. We crossed the second creek and continued to the mouth of the creek, where there were three houses and about twelve families from the Clatsop Nation. We crossed to those houses, which were built on the south side of the hill, sunk about four feet into the ground. The walls, roof, and gable ends were made of split pine boards, with small entrances and a ladder to descend into the inner part of the house. There were two fires in the middle of the house, and the beds were all around, raised about two and a half feet from the floor, covered with mats. Under those beds, they stored their bags, baskets, and worn-out mats. These people treated me with extraordinary kindness; one man attached himself to me as soon as I entered the hut, spread new mats for me to sit on, and offered me fish, berries, roots, etc., on small, neat platters made of rushes, which he repeated. All the men from the other houses came and smoked with me. They seemed much neater in their diet than Indians commonly are and frequently washed their faces and hands. In the evening, an old woman presented me with a bowl made of light-colored horn filled with a syrup made from dried berries, which is common in this country and called "shele wele" by the natives. I found this syrup pleasant. They also gave me cockle shells filled with a kind of soup made from shele wele berries mixed with roots, served in neat wooden trenchers. A flock of brants landed in the creek, which was seventy yards wide. I picked up my small rifle and shot one, which amazed the people. They jumped into the creek and brought the brant ashore. In the evening, it began to rain and continued with a strong wind from the southwest until 10 PM. The people had a unique game they were very fond of, played with something the size of a large bean that they passed back and forth between their hands with great skill while singing. Occasionally, they would hold out their hands for those who chose to risk their belongings to guess which hand the bean was in; the person with the bean acted as the banker and opposed everyone else in the room. They risked their beads and other valuable items for this game, which occupied about three hours of the evening. Several people in the lodge I was in lost all their beads. There was another game that a man tried to show me; I didn’t fully understand it. They used many pieces resembling backgammon pieces, which they rolled through between two pins stuck at certain distances. When I was ready to sleep, the man who had been most attentive, named Cus-ka-lah, produced two new mats and spread them near the fire and directed his wife to go to his bed, which was the signal for everyone to leave. They all immediately did so. I hadn’t been on my mats long before I was attacked violently by fleas, which kept up a relentless siege throughout the night.
[Clark, December 10, 1805]
December 10th 1805 Tusday A Cloudey rainy morning those people was Some what astonished, at three Shot I made with my little riffle to day, a gangu of Brant Set in the little river, I Killd. 2 of them as they Set, and on my return Saw a Duck which I took the head off of, the men plunged into the water like Spaniards Dogs after those fowls, after eateing a brackfast which was Similar to my Suppar, I attempted to purchase Some fiew roots which I offered red beeds for, they would give Scercely any thing for Beeds of that Colour, I then offered Small fish hooks which they were fond of and gave me Some roots for them, I then Set out on my return by the Same road I had went out accompd. by my young Chief by name Cus-ca-lar who Crossed me over the 3 Creek, and returned I proceeded on to my Camp thro a heavy Cold rain, Saw no game—at the Sea Cost near those Indins I found various kinds of Shells, a kind of Bay opsd. those people with a high pt. about 4 miles below, out from which at Some dists I Saw large rocks, as the day was Cloudy I could not See distinctly—found Capt Lewis with all hands felling trees, to build with, rained nearly all day, in my absence they men had bt. in the 6 Elk which was Killed Some days past 4 men complaining of being unwell from various causes
December 10th, 1805, Tuesday: It was a cloudy, rainy morning, and the people were somewhat surprised by the three shots I fired with my little rifle today. I shot a group of Brant resting by the little river, killing two of them. On my way back, I spotted a duck and took its head off. The men jumped into the water like Spanish dogs after the birds. After having breakfast, which was similar to my supper, I tried to buy some roots, offering red beads in exchange, but they barely wanted anything for beads of that color. I then offered small fish hooks, which they liked, and they traded me some roots for them. I started my return by the same path I came, accompanied by my young chief named Cus-ca-lar, who helped me across the three creeks before going back. I continued on to my camp through a heavy, cold rain and didn’t see any game. At the seaside near those Indians, I found various kinds of shells and a type of bay, about four miles down from their location, out from which I saw large rocks at a distance. As it was cloudy, I couldn’t see clearly. I found Captain Lewis and all the men chopping trees for building, and it rained nearly the whole day. While I was gone, they had brought in the six elk that were killed a few days earlier, and four men were complaining about not feeling well for various reasons.
[Clark, December 10, 1805]
Tuesday 10th December 1805 a Cloudy rainey morning verry early I rose and walked on the Shore of the Sea coast and picked up Several Curious Shells. I Saw Indians walking up and down the beech which I did not at first understand the Cause of, one man came to where I was and told me that he was in Serch of fish which is frequently thrown up on Shore and left by the tide, and told me the "Sturgion was verry good" and that the water when it retired left fish which they eate this was Conclusive evedance to me that this Small band depended in Some Measure for their winters Subsistance on the fish which is thrown on Shore and left by the tide- after amuseing my Self for about an hour on the edge of the rageing Seas I returned to the houses, one of the Indians pointed to a flock of Brant Sitting in the creek at Short distance below and requested me to Shute one, I walked down with my Small rifle and killed two at about 40 yds distance, on my return to the houses two Small ducks Set at about 30 Steps from me the Indians pointed at the ducks they were near together, I Shot at the ducks and accidently Shot the head of one off, this Duck and brant was Carried to the house and every man Came around examined the Duck looked at the gun the Size of the ball which was 100 to the pound and Said in their own language Clouch Musket, wake, com ma-tax Musket which is, a good Musket do not under Stand this kind of Musket &c. I entered the Same house I Slept in, they imediately Set before me their best roots, fish and Surup-, I attempted to purchase a Small Sea otter Skin for read beeds which I had in my pockets, they would not trade for those beeds not priseing any other Colour than Blue or White, I purchased a little of the berry bread and a fiew of their roots for which I gave Small fish hooks, which they appeared fond of—I then Set out on my return by the Same rout I had Come out accompanied by Cus-ka lah and his brother as far as the 3d Creek, for the purpose of Setting me across, from which place they returned, and I proceeded on through a heavy rain to the Camp at our intended fort, Saw a bears track & the tracks of 2 Elk in the thick woods—found Capt Lewis with all the men out Cutting down trees for our huts &c. in my absence the Men brought in the Six Elk which was killed Several days ago-. 4 men Complaining of violent Coalds. three Indians in a Canoe Came up from the Clat Sop Village yesterday and returned to day. The Sea Coast is about 7 miles distant Nearly West about 5 miles of the distance through a thick wood with reveens hills and Swamps the land, rich black moald 2 miles in a open wavering Sandy prarie, ridge runing parrelal to the river, Covered with Green Grass.
Tuesday, December 10, 1805, it was a cloudy, rainy morning. Very early, I got up and walked along the shoreline, picking up several interesting shells. I saw some Native Americans walking up and down the beach, which puzzled me at first. One man approached me and told me he was searching for fish that often gets washed ashore and left by the tide. He mentioned that "sturgeon is very good" and that when the water recedes, it leaves fish, which they eat. This was clear evidence to me that this small group relied in part on the fish that gets thrown ashore and left by the tide. After spending about an hour by the raging sea, I returned to the houses. One of the Indians pointed to a flock of brant sitting in the creek a short distance away and asked me to shoot one. I went down with my small rifle and managed to kill two from about 40 yards away. On my way back to the houses, two small ducks settled about 30 steps in front of me. The Indians pointed at the ducks since they were close together. I shot at the ducks and accidentally took the head off one. This duck and the brant were carried to the house, and every man gathered around to examine the duck, look at the gun, and check the size of the bullet, which was 100 to the pound. They said in their own language, "Clouch Musket, wake, com ma-tax Musket," which means "good musket." They didn't understand this kind of musket at all. I went into the same house where I had slept, and they immediately set before me their best roots, fish, and syrup. I tried to buy a small sea otter skin with red beads that I had in my pockets, but they wouldn’t trade for those beads, not valuing any color other than blue or white. I bought a bit of berry bread and a few of their roots, giving them small fish hooks, which they seemed to like. I then set out for my return along the same route I had come, accompanied by Cus-ka-lah and his brother as far as the third creek to help me cross. From there, they turned back, and I continued on through the heavy rain to the camp at our intended fort. I saw a bear track and the tracks of two elk in the thick woods. I found Captain Lewis with all the men out cutting down trees for our huts. While I was gone, the men had brought in the six elk that had been killed several days ago. Four men were complaining of severe colds. Three Indians in a canoe came up from the Clat Sop Village yesterday and returned today. The sea coast is about seven miles distant nearly west, with about five miles of that through thick woods with ravines, hills, and swamps. The land is rich black mold, with two miles of open, rolling sandy prairie, and ridges running parallel to the river, covered with green grass.
[Clark, December 11, 1805]
December 11th Wednesday rained all last night moderately, we are all employed putting up the huts, rained at intervales all day moderately employed in putting up Cabins for our winter quarters, one man with Turners, one with a Strained Knee, one Sick with Disentary & Serjt. Pryor unwell from haveing his Sholder out of place
December 11th, Wednesday. It rained moderately all last night, and we spent the day setting up the huts. It rained intermittently throughout the day while we worked on building cabins for our winter quarters. One man had a strained knee, another was sick with dysentery, and Sergeant Pryor was unwell from having his shoulder out of place.
[Clark, December 11, 1805]
Wednesday 11th December 1805 rained all the last night moderately we are all employed putting up huts or Cabins for our winters quarters. Sergeant Pryor unwell from a dislocation of his Sholder, Gibson with the disentary, Jo. Fields with biles on his legs, & Werner with a Strained Knee. The rained Continued moderately all day.
Wednesday, December 11, 1805, it rained moderately all night. We are all busy setting up huts or cabins for our winter quarters. Sergeant Pryor is unwell due to a shoulder dislocation, Gibson has dysentery, Jo. Fields has boils on his legs, and Werner has a strained knee. The rain continued moderately throughout the day.
[Clark, December 12, 1805]
December 12th Thursday 1805 Some moderate Showers last night and this morning all hands who are well employed in building Cabins, despatched 2 men to get board timber, The flees so bad last night that, I made but a broken nights rest we can't get them out of our robes & Skins, which we are obliged to make use of for bedding Some rain to day at Intervales—all at work, in the evening 2 Canoe of Indians Came from the 2 villages of Clotsop below, & brought Wapitoo roots a black root they call Si-ni-tor and a Small Sea orter Skin all of which we purchased for a fiew fishing hooks & Some Snake Indian Tobacco. Those Indians appeare well disposed, I made a Chief of one & gave him a Small medel, his name is Conyear we treated those people well—they are tite Deelers, value Blu & white beeds verry highly, and Sell their roots also highly as they purchase them from the Indians abov for a high price
December 12th, Thursday, 1805 Some moderate showers last night and this morning. Everyone who is well is busy building cabins. I sent 2 men to get boards. The fleas were so bad last night that I barely got any sleep. We can’t get them out of our robes and skins, which we have to use for bedding. There was some rain today at intervals—everyone is working. In the evening, 2 canoes of Indians came from the 2 villages of Clatsop below and brought Wapato roots, a black root they call Si-ni-tor, and a small sea otter skin, all of which we bought for a few fishing hooks and some Snake Indian tobacco. Those Indians seemed friendly. I made one a chief and gave him a small medal; his name is Conyear. We treated those people well—they are good traders, value blue and white beads very highly, and sell their roots at a high price since they purchase them from the Indians above for a high price.
[Clark, December 12, 1805]
Thursday 12th December 1805 All hands that are well employ'd in Cutting logs and raising our winter Cabins, detached two men to Split boards—Some rain at intervales all last night and to day—The flees were So troublesom last night that I made but a broken nights rest, we find great dificuelty in getting those trouble insects out of our robes and blankets—in the evening two Canoes of Chit Sops Visit us they brought with them Wap pa to, a black Sweet root they Call Sha-na toe qua, and a Small Sea Otter Skin, all of which we purchased for a fiew fishing hooks and a Small Sack of Indian tobacco which was given by the Snake Inds.
Thursday, December 12, 1805 All the healthy crew worked on cutting logs and building our winter cabins. We sent two men to split boards. There was some rain on and off all last night and today. The fleas were so bothersome last night that I barely got any sleep. We’re having a lot of trouble getting those pesky insects out of our robes and blankets. In the evening, two canoes from the Chit Sops visited us. They brought with them black sweet root, which they call sha-na toe qua, and a small sea otter skin, all of which we bought for a few fishing hooks and a small sack of Indian tobacco given by the Snake Indians.
Those Indians appear well disposed we gave a Medal to the principal Chief named Con-ny-au or Com mo-wol and treated those with him with as much attention as we could—I can readily discover that they are Close deelers, & Stickle for a verry little, never close a bargin except they think they have the advantage Value Blue beeds highly, white they also prise but no other Colour do they Value in the least—the Wap pa to they Sell high, this root the purchase at a high price from the nativs above.
Those Indigenous people seem to be friendly. We gave a medal to the main chief named Con-ny-au or Com mo-wol and treated him and his companions with as much attention as we could. I can easily see that they are tough negotiators and are very particular about small details. They won't finalize a deal unless they think they have the upper hand. They highly value blue beads and appreciate white ones, but they don't care about any other colors at all. They sell the Wap pa root for a high price, which they purchase from the natives upstream at a premium.
[Clark, December 13, 1805]
December 13th Friday 1805 The Indians left us to day after brackfast, haveing Sold us 2 of the robes of a Small animal for which I intend makeing a Capot, and Sold Capt Lewis 2 Loucirvia Skins for the Same purpose. Drewyer & Shannon returned from hunting havg. killed 18 Elk and butchered all except 2 which they Could not get as night provented ther finding them & they Spoild.
December 13th, Friday, 1805. The Indians left us today after breakfast, having sold us 2 robes from a small animal, which I plan to use for making a capote, and sold Captain Lewis 2 louisiana skins for the same purpose. Drewyer and Shannon returned from hunting, having killed 18 elk and butchered all except 2, which they couldn’t find before nightfall and they spoiled.
3 Indians in a Canoe Came and offered us for Sale Sinutor roots, fish & 2 Sea otter Skins for Sale none of which we Could purchase. Some rain last night and this day at Several times, light Showers. we Continue building our houses of the Streightest & _____ logs, Sent out 2 men to Split timber to Covet the Cabins, and I am glad to find the timber Splits butifully, and of any width
3 Indians in a canoe came and offered us for sale Sinutor roots, fish, and 2 sea otter skins, none of which we could buy. There was some rain last night and light showers throughout the day. We continue building our houses from the straightest logs. I sent out 2 men to split timber to cover the cabins, and I am glad to see that the timber splits beautifully and can be of any width.
[Clark, December 13, 1805]
Friday 13th December 1805 The Clatsops leave us to day after a brackfast on Elk which they appeared to be very fond of before they left us they Sold me two robes of the Skins of a Small animal about the Size of a Cat, and to Captain Lewis 2 Cat or Loucirva Skins for the purpose of makeing a Coat. Drewyer & Shannon returned from hunting, haveing killed 18 Elk & left them boochered in the woods near the right fork of the river about 6 miles above this place—in the evining 3 Indians came in a Canoe, and offered to us for Sale roots & 2 Sea otter Skins, neither of which we Could purchase this evening. Some Showers of rain last night, and to day Several verry hard Showers—we Continue to put up the Streight butifull balsom pine on our houses-and we are much pleased to find that the timber Splits most butifully and to the width of 2 feet or more.
Friday, December 13, 1805 The Clatsops left us today after having breakfast on elk, which they seemed to really enjoy. Before they departed, they sold me two robes made from the skins of a small animal, about the size of a cat, and to Captain Lewis, two cat or loucirva skins to make a coat. Drewyer and Shannon returned from hunting, having killed 18 elk, which they left butchered in the woods near the right fork of the river, about 6 miles upstream from here. In the evening, three Indians arrived in a canoe and offered us roots and two sea otter skins for sale, but we couldn’t buy anything this evening. We had some rain showers last night, and today there were several heavy showers. We continue to put up the straight, beautiful balsam pine on our houses, and we’re very pleased to find that the timber splits beautifully, up to two feet wide or more.
[Clark, December 14, 1805]
December 14th Saturday 1805 a cloudy day & rained moderately all day we finish the log works of our building, the Indians leave us to day after Selling a Small Sea otter Skin and a roabe, Send 4 men to Stay at the Elk which is out in the woods &c.
December 14th, Saturday, 1805: It was a cloudy day and it rained moderately all day. We finished the log work on our building. The Indians left us today after selling a small sea otter skin and a robe. We sent 4 men to stay at the Elk, which is out in the woods, etc.
[Clark, December 14, 1805]
Saturday 14th December 1805 The Day Cloudy and rained moderately all day we finish the log work of our building, the Indians leave us to day after Selling a Small Sea otter Skin and a roab, dispatch 4 men to the Elk out in the woods with derections to delay untill the party goes up tomorrow. all employd in finishing a house to put meat into. all our last Supply of Elk has Spoiled in the repeeted rains which has been fallen ever Since our arrival at this place, and for a long time before, Scerce one man in Camp Can host of being one day dry Since we landed at this point, the Sick getting better, my man York Sick with Cholick & gripeing
Saturday, December 14, 1805 The day was cloudy and it rained moderately all day. We finished the logging work for our building. The Indians left us today after selling a small sea otter skin and a robe. I dispatched 4 men to the elk out in the woods with instructions to wait until the party heads out tomorrow. Everyone is busy finishing a house to store meat in. Our last supply of elk has spoiled due to the continued rains that have been falling ever since we arrived here, and long before that. Hardly any man in camp has had a dry day since we landed at this point. The sick are getting better, though my man York is ill with colic and cramps.
[Clark, December 15, 1805]
December 15th Sunday 1805 I Set out with 16 men in 3 Canoes for the Elk proced up the 1st right hand fork 4 miles & pack the meat from the woods to the Cano from 4 mile to 3 miles distance all hands pack not one man exempted from this labour I also pack my Self Some of this meat, and Cook for those out in packing Some rain in the evening Cloudy all day, the last load of meat all the party got out of the road or Direction and did not get to the Canoe untill after night, 5 did not join to night
December 15th, Sunday, 1805. I set out with 16 men in 3 canoes for the elk. We followed the first right fork for 4 miles and carried the meat from the woods to the canoes, from 4 miles to 3 miles away. Everyone helped with this task; no one was exempt. I also carried some of the meat myself and cooked for those still out packing. It rained a bit in the evening and was cloudy all day. The last group of meat got off track and didn't reach the canoes until after dark. Five guys didn't join us tonight.
[Clark, December 15, 1805]
Sunday the 15th December 1805. I Set out early with 16 men and 3 Canoes for the Elk, proceed up the River three miles and thence up a large Creek from the right about 3 miles the hite of the tide water drew up the Canoes and all hands went out in three different parties and brought in to the Canoe each Man a quarter of Elk, I Sent them out for a Second load and had Some of the first Cooked against their return, after eateing a harty diner dispatched the party for a third and last load, about half the men missed their way and did not get to the Canoes untill after Dark, and Serjt. Ordway Colter, Colins Whitehouse & McNeal Staid out all night without fire and in the rain—Cloudy all day Some rain in the evening.
Sunday, December 15, 1805. I set out early with 16 men and 3 canoes for the elk, moving up the river for three miles and then up a large creek on the right for about three miles. The high tide pulled the canoes up, and everyone split into three groups to bring back a quarter of elk each. I sent them out for a second load and had some of the first cooked for their return. After enjoying a hearty dinner, I sent the team out for a third and final load. About half the men lost their way and didn't reach the canoes until after dark. Sergeant Ordway, Colter, Collins, Whitehouse, and McNeal stayed out all night without a fire and in the rain. It was cloudy all day with some rain in the evening.
[Clark, December 16, 1805]
December 16th Monday 1805 rained all the last night we Covered our Selves as well as we Could with Elk Skins, & Set up the greater part of the night, all wet I lay in the water verry Cold, the 5 men who Stayed out all night joined me this morning Cold & wet, Ordway Colter Collens, Jo Whitehouse J McNeal, I had the two Canoes loaded with the 11 Elk which was brought to the Canoes, despatched 12 men to meet me below with 2 Elk, The rain Contines, with Tremendious gusts of wind, which is Tremds. I proceeded on and took in the 2 Elk which was brought to the Creek, & Send back 7 men to Carrey to the Canoe & take down to Camp 3 Elk which was left in the woods, and I proceeded on to Camp thro the Same Chanel I had assd. The winds violent Trees falling in every derection, whorl winds, with gusts of rain Hail & Thunder, this kind of weather lasted all day, Certainly one of the worst days that ever was! I found 3 Indeans with Capt Lewis in camp they had brought fish to Sell, we had a house Covered with Punchen & our meat hung up. Several men Complaining of hurting themselves Carry meet, &c.
December 16th, Monday, 1805. It rained all night, and we covered ourselves as best we could with elk skins, staying up for most of the night. I lay cold and wet in the water. The five men who spent the night outside joined me this morning, cold and soggy: Ordway, Colter, Collens, Jo Whitehouse, and J. McNeal. I had the two canoes loaded with the 11 elk that were brought to the canoes and sent 12 men to meet me downriver with 2 elk. The rain continued, with tremendous gusts of wind, which is daunting. I moved on and picked up the 2 elk that were brought to the creek, then sent 7 men back to carry them to the canoe and take down 3 elk that were left in the woods to camp. I continued to camp through the same channel I had assessed. The winds were violent, with trees falling in every direction, whirlwinds, and gusts of rain, hail, and thunder. This kind of weather lasted all day, certainly one of the worst days ever! I found 3 Indians with Capt. Lewis in camp; they had brought fish to sell. We had a house covered with puncheon and our meat hung up. Several men complained about hurting themselves while carrying meat, etc.
[Clark, December 16, 1805]
Monday 16th December 1805 I as also the party with me experiencd a most dreadfull night rain and wet without any Couvering, indeed we Set up the greater part of the Night, when we lay down the water Soon Came under us and obliged us to rise. the five men who Stayed out all night joind me this morning wet and Cold, haveing Stayed out without fire or Shelter and the rain poreing down upon them all night their appearance was truly distressingthey had left all their loads near the place they Spent the night—I dispatched 12 men for 2 Elk which was reather below on the opposit Side of the Creak, with directions to meet me at the 2d bend in the Creek below, had all the meat which had been brought in yesterday put into 2 Canoes and proceeded down to the 2d bend where I met the 12 men with the 2 Elk, dispatchd 6 men with one of those who Staid out last night for the meet left in the woods & the remainder an elk at Some distance and proceeded on my Self with 3 Canoes to the fort. wind violent from the S E
Monday, December 16, 1805 I and the group with me experienced a terrible night—rain and wet conditions without any cover. In fact, we spent most of the night awake, and when we finally lay down, the water quickly came under us, forcing us to get up. The five men who stayed out all night joined me this morning, soaked and cold, having endured the rain without fire or shelter. Their appearance was truly distressing; they had left all their gear near the spot where they spent the night. I sent 12 men to fetch 2 elk that were a bit below on the opposite side of the creek, instructing them to meet me at the second bend in the creek below. I had all the meat that was brought in yesterday loaded into 2 canoes and proceeded down to the second bend where I met the 12 men with the 2 elk. I sent 6 men with one of those who stayed out last night to retrieve the meat left in the woods, while the rest took another elk at some distance. I continued on my own with 3 canoes to the fort. The wind was strong from the southeast.
trees falling, rain and hail, we with Some risque proceeded on thro the high waves in the river, a tempestious disagreeable day.
trees falling, rain and hail, we with some risk continued through the high waves in the river, a stormy and unpleasant day.
I found 3 indians at our Camp, they brought fish to Sell which were pore & not fit for use, had the meet house coverd and the meat all hung up, Several men complain of haveing hurt themselves heavy loads of meat.
I found 3 Native Americans at our camp; they brought fish to sell, which were poor and not fit for use. We had the meat house covered and all the meat hung up. Several men complained about hurting themselves carrying heavy loads of meat.
[Clark, December 17, 1805]
December 17th Tuesday 1805 rained Some last night and this morning, all hands at work about the huts Chinking them, The 7 men left to bring in the Elk left in the woods Come with 2 the 3rd they Could not find, as it was that left by the party that got lost night before last
December 17th, Tuesday, 1805: It rained some last night and this morning. Everyone is busy working on the huts, chinking them. The 7 men who went to bring in the elk left in the woods came back with 2; they couldn't find the 3rd, which was left by the party that got lost the night before last.
The after part of the Day fair & Cool, fore part of the Day rain hailed & blew hard, The mountain which lies S. E of this is covered with Snow to day we fleece all the meat and hang it up over a Small Smoke The trees are hard to Split for Punchens to Cover our houses &c.
The latter part of the day was fair and cool, while the morning was rainy, with strong winds and hail. The mountain to the southeast is covered in snow today. We trimmed all the meat and hung it up over a small fire. The trees are tough to split for making puncheons to cover our houses and so on.
[Clark, December 17, 1805]
Tuesday 17th of December 1805 Some rain last night and a continuation of it this morning. all the men at work about the houses, Some Chinking, Dobbing Cutting out dores &c. &c. The 7 men left to bring in the Elk arrived and informed that they Could not find the meat that the party who Stayed out all night had left—the forepart of this day rained hailed and blew hard, the after part is fair and Cool—a Mountain which is S. ____° E. about 10 miles distant has got Snow on its top which is ruged and uneavin
Tuesday, December 17, 1805 Some rain last night and it continued this morning. All the men are working on the houses, doing some chinking, daubing, and cutting out doors, etc. The seven men who went to bring in the elk have returned and said they couldn't find the meat that the group who stayed out all night left behind. The morning was rainy, hailing, and windy, but the afternoon was fair and cool. A mountain to the southeast, about 10 miles away, has snow on its peak, which is rugged and uneven.
Cause a Small fire & Smoke to be made under the meat which is hung up in Small peaces. The trees which our men have fallen latterly Split verry badly into boards. The most of our Stores are wet. our Leather Lodge has become So rotten that the Smallest thing tares it into holes and it is now Scrcely Sufficent to keep off the rain off a Spot Sufficiently large for our bead.
Cause a small fire and smoke to be made under the meat that's hanging in small pieces. The trees our men recently cut have split badly into boards. Most of our supplies are wet. Our leather lodge has become so rotten that the smallest thing tears it into holes, and it’s now barely enough to keep off the rain from a spot big enough for our bed.
[Clark, December 18, 1805]
December 18th Wednesday 1805 rained and Snowed alturnitely all the last night and the gusts of Snow and hail continue untill 12 oClock, Cold and a dreadfull day wind hard and unsettled, we continue at work at our huts, the men being but thinly dressed, and no Shoes causes us to doe but little—at 12 the Snow & hail Seased & the after part of the day was Cloudy with Some rain.
December 18th, Wednesday, 1805. It rained and snowed alternately all night, and the gusts of snow and hail continued until 12 o'clock. It was cold and a terrible day, with strong, unstable winds. We kept working on our huts, but the men were dressed very lightly, and the lack of shoes made it hard to get much done. By noon, the snow and hail stopped, and the rest of the day was cloudy with some rain.
[Clark, December 18, 1805]
Wednesday 18th December 1805 rained and Snowed alternetly all the last night, and Spurts of Snow and Hail Continued untill 12 oClock, which has chilled the air which is Cool and disagreeable, the wind hard & unsettled—The men being thinly Dressed and mockersons without Socks is the reason that but little can be done at the Houses to day—at 12 the Hail & Snow Seased, and rain Suckceeded for the latter part of the day
Wednesday, December 18, 1805, it rained and snowed alternately all night. Spurts of snow and hail continued until 12 o'clock, which made the air chilly, cool, and unpleasant. The wind was strong and unpredictable. The men, dressed lightly and wearing moccasins without socks, could do very little at the houses today. At 12, the hail and snow stopped, and rain took over for the rest of the day.
[Lewis, December 18, 1805]
Fort Clatsop, December 18th 1805. This day one of the men shot a bird of the Corvus genus, which was feeding on some fragments of meat near the camp. this bird is about the size of the kingbird or bee martin, and not unlike that bird in form. the beak is 3/4 of an inch long, wide at the base, of a convex, and cultrated figure, beset with some small black hairs near it's base. the chaps are of nearly equal lengths tho the upper exceeds the under one a little, and has a small nich in the upper chap near the extremity perceptable only by close examineation. the colour of the beak is black. the eye is large and prominent, the puple black, and iris of a dark yellowish brown. the legs and feet are black and imbricated. has four toes on each foot armed with long sharp tallons; the hinder toe is nearly as long as the middle toe in front and longer than the two remaining toes. the tale is composed of twelve fathers the longest of which are five inches, being six in number placed in the center. the remaining six are placed 3 on either side and graduly deminish to four inches which is the shortest and outer feathers. the tail is half the length of the bird, the whole length from the extremity of the beak to the extremity of the tale being 10 Inches. the head from it's joining the nect forward as far as the eyes nearly to the base of the beak and on each side as low as the center of the eye is black. arround the base of the beak the throat jaws, neck, brest and belley are of a pale bluish white. the wings back and tale are of a bluish black with a small shade of brown. this bird is common to this piny country are also found in the rockey mountains on the waters of the columbia river or woody side of those mountains, appear to frequent the highest sumits of those mountains as far as they are covered with timber. their note is que, quit-it, que-hoo; and tah, tah, &—there is another bird of reather larger size which I saw on the woddy parts of the rockey mountains and on the waters of the Missouri, this bird I could never kill tho I made several attempts, the predominate colour is a dark blue the tale is long and they are not crested; I believe them to be of the corvus genus also. their note is char, char, char-ar, char; the large blue crested corvus of the Columbia river is also
Fort Clatsop, December 18th, 1805. Today, one of the men shot a bird from the Corvus genus that was eating some scraps of meat near the camp. This bird is about the size of a kingbird or bee martin and resembles it in shape. The beak is 3/4 of an inch long, wide at the base, with a curved and sharp shape, featuring some small black hairs near its base. The upper jaw is slightly longer than the lower jaw, with a small notch in the upper jaw near the tip that can only be seen upon close inspection. The beak is black. The eye is large and prominent, with a black pupil and a dark yellowish-brown iris. Its legs and feet are black and scaly, equipped with four toes on each foot that have long, sharp claws; the hind toe is nearly as long as the middle toe in front and longer than the two remaining toes. The tail consists of twelve feathers, the longest of which are five inches long, with six placed in the center. The other six are arranged three on either side and gradually shorten to four inches, which are the shortest outer feathers. The tail is half the length of the bird, with the total length from the tip of the beak to the end of the tail measuring 10 inches. The head, from where it connects to the neck forward to just above the eyes and down to the base of the beak, is black. Around the base of the beak, the throat, jaws, neck, chest, and belly are a pale bluish-white. The wings, back, and tail are bluish-black with a slight brown tint. This bird is common in this pine country and can also be found in the Rocky Mountains along the Columbia River and the wooded sides of those mountains, seeming to prefer the highest timbered summits. Their call is "que, quit-it, que-hoo; and tah, tah." There is another bird of somewhat larger size that I spotted in the wooded areas of the Rocky Mountains and along the waters of the Missouri. I could never catch this bird despite several attempts; its dominant color is dark blue, and it has a long, non-crested tail. I believe it is also of the Corvus genus. Its call is "char, char, char-ar, char;" the large blue-crested corvus of the Columbia River is also
[Lewis, December 19, 1805]
Discription of the blue Crested corvus bird common to the woody and western side of the Rockey mountains, and all the woody country from thence to the Pacific Ocean It's beak is black convex, cultrated, wide at its base where it is beset with hairs, and is 11 inches from the opening of the chaps to their extremity, and from the joining of the head to the extremity of the upper chap 1 1/8 Inches, the upper exceeds the under chap a little; the nostrils are small round unconnected and placed near the base of the beak where they lye concealed by the hairs or hairy feathers which cover the base of the upper chap. the eye reather large and full but not prominent and of a deep bluefish black, there being no difference in the colour of the puple and the iris. the crest is very full the feathers from 1 to 11/2 Inches long and occupye the whole crown of the head. the head neck, the whole of the body including the coverts of the wings, the upper disk of the tail and wings are of a fine gossey bright indigo blue Colour the under disk of the tail and wings are of a dark brown nearly black. the leg and first joint of the tye are 41/4 In. long, the legs and feet are black and the front covered with 6 scales the hinder part smothe, the toes are also imbrecated, four in number long and armed with long sharp black tallons. the upper disk of the first four or five feathers of the wing next to the boddy, are marked with small transverse stripes of black as are also the upper side of the two center feathers of the tail; the tail is five inches long & is composed of twelve feathers of equal length. the tail 1 & 1/2 as long as the boddy. the whole length from the point of the beak to extremity of the tail 1 Foot 1 Inch; from the tip of one to the tip of the other wing 1 Foot 51/2 Inches. the Conta. the size & the whole Contour of this bird resembles very much the blue jay or jaybird as they are called in the U States. like them also they seldom rest in one place long but are in constant motion hoping from spra to spray. what has been said is more immediately applicable to the male, the colours of the female are somewhat different in her the head crest neck half the back downwards and the converts of the wings are of a dark brown, but sometimes there is a little touch of the Indigo on the short feathers on the head at the base of the upper chap. this bird feeds on flesh when they can procure it, also on bugs flies and buries. I do not know whether they distroy little birds but their tallons indicate their capacity to do so if nature, has directed it. their note is loud and frequently repeated cha'—a cha'—a' &c.—also twat twat twat, very quick
Description of the blue Crested corvus bird commonly found on the wooded and western side of the Rocky Mountains and in all the wooded areas from there to the Pacific Ocean. Its beak is black, curved, and wide at the base, where it's covered with hairs, measuring 11 inches from the opening of the mouth to the tip, and about 1 1/8 inches from the base of the head to the tip of the upper beak, which is slightly longer than the lower. The nostrils are small, round, and disconnected, situated near the base of the beak, hidden by the hairs or fuzzy feathers that cover the base of the upper beak. The eye is quite large and full but not bulging, appearing a deep bluish-black, with no difference in color between the pupil and the iris. The crest is very full, with feathers ranging from 1 to 1 ½ inches long, covering the entire crown of the head. The head, neck, and entire body—including the wing coverts and the upper side of the tail and wings—are a brilliant, glossy indigo blue. The underside of the tail and wings are a dark brown, nearly black. The legs and first joint of the thigh are 4 ¼ inches long; both legs and feet are black, with six scales on the front and a smooth back, while the toes are also covered, numbering four in total, long, and equipped with sharp black talons. The upper surfaces of the first four or five feathers of the wing, next to the body, are marked with small transverse black stripes, as are the upper sides of the two center tail feathers. The tail is five inches long, made up of twelve feathers of equal length, and is 1 ½ times the length of the body. The total length from the tip of the beak to the end of the tail is 1 foot 1 inch; the wingspan measures 1 foot 5 ½ inches. The size and overall shape of this bird closely resemble that of the blue jay, or jaybird, as they are called in the U.S. Similar to them, they rarely stay in one spot for long, constantly moving from branch to branch. What has been described mainly relates to the male, as the female has slightly different colors; her head, crest, neck, half of the back, and wing coverts are a dark brown, though there may be a hint of indigo on the short feathers at the front of her head. This bird primarily feeds on flesh when available, as well as insects and berries. I’m unsure if they prey on smaller birds, but their talons suggest they could, should nature allow it. Their call is loud and often repeated: cha'—a cha'—a' &c.—along with quick twat twat twat sounds.
[Clark, December 19, 1805]
December 19th Thursday 1805 Some rain with intervales of fair weather last night, The morning Clear and wind from S W. I despatched Sjt. Pryer with 8 men in 2 Canoes across the bay for the boads of an Indian house which is abandoned, the other part of the men continue to doe a little at the huts, the after part of the day Cloudy with hail & rain, Sgt. Pryer and party returned with 2 Canoe loads of Boards, two Indians Came & Stayed but a Short time
December 19th, Thursday, 1805. It rained last night with some breaks of clear weather. The morning was clear with a southwest wind. I sent Sergeant Pryer with 8 men in 2 canoes across the bay to get the boards from an abandoned Indian house. The rest of the men continued working on the huts a bit. In the afternoon, it was cloudy with hail and rain. Sergeant Pryer and his group returned with 2 canoe loads of boards. Two Indians came by and stayed for a short time.
[Clark, December 19, 1805]
Thursday 19th December 1805 Some rain with intervales of fair weather last night, this morning Clear & the wind from the S, W. we dispatched Sjt. Pryor with 8 men in 2 Canoes across Meriwethers Bay for the boards of an old Indian house which is vacant, the residue of the men at work at their huts—the after part of the Day Cloudy with Hail and rain, Serjt. Pryor & party returned in the evening with a load of old boards which was found to be verry indifferent
Thursday, December 19, 1805 Some rain with breaks of clear weather last night; this morning is clear with the wind blowing from the southwest. We sent Sergeant Pryor with 8 men in 2 canoes across Meriwether's Bay to get some boards from an old, vacant Indian house, while the rest of the men worked on their huts. In the afternoon, it became cloudy with hail and rain. Sergeant Pryor and his team returned in the evening with a load of old boards, which turned out to be of very poor quality.
2 Indians Cam and Stayed a Short time to day
[Clark, December 20, 1805]
December 20th Friday 1805 Some rain and hail last night and this morning it rained hard untill 10 oClock, men all employd Carrying Punchens and Covering Cabins 4 of which we had Covered, & Set Some to Dobing—the after part of the day Cloudy and Some Showers of rain. 3 Indians came with Lickorish Sackacomie berries & mats to Sell, for which they asked Such high prices that we did not purchase any of them,—Those people ask double & tribble the value of everry thing they have to Sell, and never take less than the full value of any thing, they prise only Blue & white heeds, files fish hooks and Tobacco—Tobacco and Blue beeds principally
December 20th, Friday, 1805 Some rain and hail last night and this morning. It rained heavily until 10 o'clock, and the men were busy carrying punches and covering cabins, four of which we managed to cover, and we also started some on daubing. The latter part of the day was cloudy with some rain showers. Three Indians came with licorice, sackacomie berries, and mats to sell, but they asked such high prices that we didn’t buy any. Those people ask double and triple the value of everything they want to sell, and they never accept less than the full value of anything. They only seem to value blue and white beads, files, fish hooks, and tobacco—especially tobacco and blue beads.
[Clark, December 20, 1805]
Friday 20th of December 1805 Some rain and hail last night and the rained Continued untill 10 oClock a,m, Men all employd in Carrying punchens or boards & Covering the houses, 4 of which were Covered to day, the after part of the day Cloudy with Several Showers of rain—3 Indians arrive in a Canoe. they brought with them mats, roots & Sackacome berries to Sell for which they asked Such high prices that we did not purchase any of them. Those people ask generally double and tribble the value of what they have to Sell, and never take less than the real value of the article in Such things as is calculated to do them Service. Such as Blue & white heeds, with which they trade with the nativs above; files which they make use of to Sharpen their tools, fish hooks of different Sises and tobacco- Tobacco and blue beeds they do prefur to every thing.
Friday, December 20, 1805 Some rain and hail last night, and the rain continued until 10 o'clock a.m. The men were all busy carrying punchens or boards and covering the houses, four of which were covered today. The latter part of the day was cloudy with several showers of rain. Three Indians arrived in a canoe. They brought mats, roots, and sackacome berries to sell, but they asked such high prices that we didn't buy any. Generally, these people ask for double or triple the value of what they have for sale and never accept less than the actual value of items that are beneficial to them. This includes blue and white beads, which they use to trade with the natives upriver; files to sharpen their tools, fish hooks of different sizes, and tobacco. They prefer tobacco and blue beads above everything else.
[Clark, December 21, 1805]
December 21st Saturday 1805 rain as usial last night and all day to day moderately. we Continued at the Cabins dobbing & Shinking of them, fall Several trees which would not Split into punchins—the Indians were detected in Stealing a Spoon & a Bone, and left us, our Sackey Commy out Send 2 men to gather Some at the ocian, Saw Elk Sign
December 21st, Saturday, 1805 - It rained as usual last night and all day today, moderately. We continued at the cabins, applying mud and thatching them. We fell several trees that wouldn't split into planks. The Indians were caught stealing a spoon and a bone, and they left us. Our supply of sack was running low, so I sent two men to gather some at the ocean. We saw signs of elk.
[Clark, December 21, 1805]
Saturday 21st December 1805 rained as useal all the last night, and contd. moderately all day to day without any intermition, men employd at the houses. one of the indians was detected Stealing a horn Spoon, and leave the Camp. dispatched two men to the open lands near the Ocian for Sackacome, which we make use of to mix with our tobacco to Smoke which has an agreeable flavour.
Saturday, December 21, 1805, rained as usual all night and continued moderately throughout the day without any interruption. The men were busy at the houses. One of the Indians was caught stealing a horn spoon and left the camp. I sent two men to the open lands near the ocean for Sackacome, which we use to mix with our tobacco for smoking, as it has a pleasant flavor.
[Clark, December 22, 1805]
December 22nd Sunday 1805 rained all the last night & to day without much intermition we finish dobbig 4 huts which is all we have Covered, the Punchin floor & Bunks finished Drewyer go out to trap—Sjt. J. Ordway, Gibson & my Servent Sick Several with Biles on them & bruses of different kinds, much of our meat Spoiled.
December 22nd, Sunday, 1805: It rained all night and continued today with little interruption. We finished covering 4 huts, which is all we have done. The punching floor and bunks are completed. Drewyer went out to trap. Sergeant J. Ordway, Gibson, and my servant are sick, several of them with boils and various bruises. Much of our meat has spoiled.
[Clark, December 22, 1805]
Sunday 22nd December 1805 rained Continued all the last night and to day without much intermition, men employd doeing what they can at the houses. Drewyer Set out up the Creek to Set his traps for beaver, Sergt. ordway, Gibson & my Servent Sick, Several men Complain of biles and bruses of differant kinds.
Sunday, December 22nd, 1805, rained continuously all night and today without much interruption. The men are doing what they can at the houses. Drewyer left to head up the creek to set his traps for beaver. Sergeant Ordway, Gibson, and my servant are sick. Several men are complaining of boils and bruises of different kinds.
We discover that part of our last Supply of meat is Spoiling from the womph of the weather not withstanding a constant Smoke kept under it day and night.
We find that some of our last supply of meat is going bad due to the poor weather, despite us keeping a constant smoke going under it day and night.
[Clark, December 23, 1805]
December 23rd Monday 1805 rained without intermition all last night, and this day much Thunder in the morning and evening with rain and Some hail to day, we are all employd about our huts have ours Covered and Dobed & we move into it, 2 Canoes of Indians Came up to day. I purchased 3 mats verry neetly made, 2 bags made with Flags verry neetly made, those the Clotsops Carry ther fish in. also a Panthor Skin and Some Lickorish roots, for which I gave a worn out file, 6 fish hooks & Some Pounded fish which to us was Spoiled, but those people were fond of—in the evining those people left us I also gave a String of wompom to a Chief, and Sent a Small pice of Simimon to a Sick Indian in the Town who had attached himself to me
December 23rd, Monday, 1805: It rained non-stop all night, and today there was a lot of thunder in the morning and evening, along with rain and some hail. We're all busy working on our huts; ours is covered and daubed, and we’re moving into it. Two canoes with Indians arrived today. I bought three very nicely made mats and two bags crafted from flags that the Clatsops use to carry their fish. I also got a panther skin and some licorice roots, for which I traded a worn-out file, six fish hooks, and some pounded fish that was spoiled to us but they liked. In the evening, they left. I also gave a string of wampum to a chief and sent a small piece of cinnamon to a sick Indian in the town who had attached himself to me.
[Clark, December 23, 1805]
Monday 23rd December 1805 Rained without intermition all the last night and to day with Thunder and Hail the fore and after part of this day Capt Lewis and my Self move into our hut to day unfinished—two Canoes with Indians of the Clat Sop nation Came up to day. I purchased 3 mats and bags all neetly made of flags and rushes, those bags are nearly Square of different size's open on one Side, I also purchased a panthor Skin 71/2 feet long including the tail, all of which I gave 6 Small fish hooks, a Small worn out file & Some pounded fish which we Could not use as it was So long wet that it was Soft and molded, the Indians of this neighbourhood prize the pound'd fish verry highly, I have not observed this method of Secureing fish on any other part of the Columbian waters then that about the Great falls. I gave a 2d Chief a String of wampom, and Sent a little pounded fish to Cus-ca-lah who was Sick in the village & could not come to See us.
Monday, December 23, 1805 It rained continuously last night and today, accompanied by thunder and hail. Captain Lewis and I moved into our hut today, which is still unfinished. Two canoes with members of the Clatsop nation came by today. I bought three mats and bags, all neatly made from flags and rushes. The bags are nearly square, varying in size, and open on one side. I also purchased a panther skin measuring 7.5 feet long, including the tail. In exchange, I gave them six small fish hooks, a small worn-out file, and some pounded fish that we couldn't use because it had been wet for so long that it became soft and moldy. The locals highly value the pounded fish; I haven't seen this method of preserving fish anywhere else on the Columbia River except around the Great Falls. I gave a second chief a string of wampum and sent some pounded fish to Cus-ca-lah, who was sick in the village and couldn't come to see us.
[Clark, December 24, 1805]
December 24th Tuesday-5 Some hard rain at different times last night, and moderately this morning without intermition all hands employed in Carrying Punchens & finishing Covering the huts, and the greater part of the men move into them a hard rain in the evening.
December 24th Tuesday-5 There was some heavy rain at different times last night, and moderately this morning without interruption. Everyone was busy carrying punchens and finishing up the huts, and most of the men moved into them as there was heavy rain in the evening.
Cuscalar the young Clot Sop Chief Came with a young brother and 2 young Squar, they gave or laid before Capt Lewis and my Self a mat and each a large Parsel of roots, Some time after he demanded 2 files for his Present we returned the present as we had no files to Speare which displeased them a little they then offered a woman to each which we also declined axcpting which also displeased them. Jo Fields finish for Capt Lewis and my Self each a wide Slab hued to write on, I gave a handkerchief &c
Cuscalar, the young Chief of the Clot Sop tribe, came with a younger brother and two young Squar. They presented Capt. Lewis and me with a mat and each a large bundle of roots. Later on, he asked for two files in exchange for his gift. We had to return the gift since we didn't have any files to spare, which upset them a bit. They then offered a woman to each of us, which we also declined, further displeasing them. Jo Fields finished making a wide slab for Capt. Lewis and me to write on, and I gave him a handkerchief, among other things.
[Clark, December 24, 1805]
Tuesday 24th December 1805 hard rain at Different times last night and all this day without intermition. men all employd in finishing their huts and moveing into them.
Tuesday, December 24, 1805: It rained heavily at different times last night and all day today without interruption. The men are all busy finishing their huts and moving into them.
Cuscalah the Indian who had treated me So politely when I was at the Clatsops village, come up in a Canoe with his young brother & 2 Squars he laid before Capt Lewis and my Self each a mat and a parcel of roots Some time in the evening two files was demanded for the presents of mats and roots, as we had no files to part with, we each returned the present which we had received, which displeased Cuscalah a little. he then offered a woman to each of us which we also declined axcepting of, which displeased the whole party verry much—the female part appeared to be highly disgusted at our refuseing to axcept of their favours &c.
Cuscalah, the Indian who had treated me so politely when I was at the Clatsop village, came up in a canoe with his younger brother and two women. He laid before Captain Lewis and me each a mat and a bundle of roots. Later in the evening, two files were requested in exchange for the mats and roots. Since we had no files to give, we each returned the gifts we had received, which upset Cuscalah a bit. He then offered us each a woman, which we also declined, much to the displeasure of the entire group. The women seemed particularly offended by our refusal of their offerings.
our Store of Meat entirely Spoiled, we are obliged to make use of it as we have nothing else except a little pounded fish, the remains of what we purchased near the great falls of the Columbia, and which we have ever found to be a convenient resort, and a portable method of curing fish
our store of meat has completely spoiled, so we have to use it because we have nothing else except some pounded fish, the leftovers from what we bought near the great falls of the Columbia, which we have always found to be a convenient place to go and an easy way to cure fish.
[Clark, December 25, 1805]
December 25th Christmas 1805 Wednesday Some rain at different times last night and Showers of hail with intervales of fair Starr light, This morning at day we were Saluted by all our party under our winders, a Shout and a Song—after brackfast we divided our tobacco which amounted to 2 Carrots, one half we gave to the party who used Tobacco those who did not we gave a Handkerchief as a present, The day proved Showery all day, the Inds. left us this eveningall our party moved into their huts. we dried Some of our wet goods. I rcved a present of a Fleeshe Hoserey vest draws & Socks of Capt Lewis, pr. Mockerson of Whitehouse, a Small Indian basket of Guterich, & 2 Doz weasels tales of the Squar of Shabono, & Some black roots of the Indians G. D. Saw a Snake passing across the parth
December 25th Christmas 1805 Wednesday There was some rain at different times last night, along with showers of hail and intervals of clear starlight. This morning at dawn, we were greeted by our group outside our windows with a shout and a song. After breakfast, we split our tobacco, which totaled 2 carrots; we gave half to those who used tobacco, and for those who didn't, we offered a handkerchief as a gift. The day turned out to be showery all day long, and the Indians left us this evening while our whole group moved into their huts. We dried some of our wet items. I received gifts of a fleece pair of hose, a vest, drawers, and socks from Captain Lewis, a pair of moccasins from Whitehouse, a small Indian basket from Guterich, 2 dozen weasel tails from the Squar of Shabono, and some black roots from the Indians. G. D. saw a snake crossing the path.
Our Diner to day Consisted of pore Elk boiled, Spilt fish & Some roots, a bad Christmass diner worm Day
Our dinner today consisted of poor elk boiled, spilled fish, and some roots, a bad Christmas dinner on a warm day.
[Clark, December 25, 1805]
Christmas Wednesday 25th December 1805 at day light this morning we were awoke by the discharge of the fire arm of all our party & a Selute, Shoute and a Song which the whole party joined in under our windows, after which they retired to their rooms were Chearfull all the morning—after brackfast we divided our Tobacco which amounted to 12 carrots one half of which we gave to the men of the party who used tobacco, and to those who doe not use it we make a present of a handkerchief, The Indians leave us in the evening all the party Snugly fixed in their huts—I recved a presnt of Capt L. of a fleece hosrie Shirt Draws and Socks-, a pr. mockersons of Whitehouse a Small Indian basket of Gutherich, two Dozen white weazils tails of the Indian woman, & Some black root of the Indians before their departure—Drewyer informs me that he Saw a Snake pass across the parth to day. The day proved Showerey wet and disagreeable.
Christmas, Wednesday, December 25, 1805. This morning at daylight, we were awakened by the sound of gunfire from our group, along with cheers, shouts, and a song that everyone joined in under our windows. After that, they went back to their rooms, and everyone was cheerful all morning. After breakfast, we split our tobacco, which totaled 12 carrots; we gave half to the men in our group who smoke tobacco, and to those who don't, we gifted a handkerchief. The Indians left us in the evening, with everyone comfortably settled in their huts. I received a present from Captain L.—a fleece, hosiery, shirt, drawers, and socks—a pair of moccasins from Whitehouse, a small Indian basket from Gutherich, two dozen white weasel tails from an Indian woman, and some black roots from the Indians before they left. Drewyer told me that he saw a snake cross the path today. The day turned out to be showery, wet, and unpleasant.
we would have Spent this day the nativity of Christ in feasting, had we any thing either to raise our Sperits or even gratify our appetites, our Diner concisted of pore Elk, So much Spoiled that we eate it thro mear necessity, Some Spoiled pounded fish and a fiew roots.
we would have spent this day, the birth of Christ, celebrating and feasting if we had anything to lift our spirits or satisfy our appetites. Our dinner consisted of poor elk, so spoiled that we only ate it out of sheer necessity, some spoiled pounded fish, and a few roots.
[Clark, December 26, 1805]
December 26th Thursday 1805 rained and blew hard last night Some hard Thunder, The rain continued as usial all day and wind blew hard from the S. E, Joseph Fields finish a Table & 2 Seats for us. we dry our wet articles and have the blankets fleed, The flees are So troublesom that I have Slept but little for 2 nights past and we have regularly to kill them out of our blankets every day for Several past—maney of the men have ther Powder wet by the horns being repeetdly wet, hut Smoke verry bad.
December 26th, Thursday, 1805: It rained and blew hard last night with some intense thunder. The rain continued as usual all day, and the wind blew strongly from the southeast. Joseph Fields finished a table and two seats for us. We dried our wet items and had the blankets aired out. The fleas are so bothersome that I haven't slept much for the past two nights, and we regularly have to kill them out of our blankets each day. Many of the men have had their powder wet because it’s been repeatedly exposed to moisture, but it smokes very poorly.
[Clark, December 26, 1805]
Thursday 26th December 1805 rained and blew with great Violence S E all the last night, Some hard Claps of Thunder, the rain as usial Continued all day—we dry our wet articles before the fire, and have our blankets fleed, great numbers were Caught out of the blankets, those trouble insects are So abundant that we have to have them killd. out of our blankets every day or get no Sleep at night—The powder in maney of the mens horns are wet from their being so long exposed to the rain &c.
Thursday, December 26, 1805, rained and blew with great violence from the southeast all night. There were some hard claps of thunder, and the rain continued throughout the day as usual. We dried our wet items by the fire and had our blankets treated; a lot of bugs were caught out of the blankets. Those pesky insects are so abundant that we have to have them killed out of our blankets every day, or we can’t get any sleep at night. The powder in many of the men’s horns is wet from being exposed to the rain for so long, etc.
[Clark, December 27, 1805]
December 27th Friday 1805. rained last night as usial and the greater part of this day, the men Complete Chimneys & Bunks to day, in the evening a Chief and 4 men Come of the Clotsop nation, Chief Co-ma wool we Sent out R. Fields & Collins to hunt and order Drewyer, Shannon & Labiach to Set out early to morrow to hunt,—Jo Fields, Bratten, & Gibson to make Salt at Point Addams,- Willard & Wiser, to assist them in carrying the Kitties &c to the Ocian, and all the others to finish the Pickets and gates. worm weather I Saw a Musquetor which I Showed Capt. Lewis—Those Indians gave is, a black root they Call Shan-na-tah que a kind of Licquerish which they rost in embers and Call Cul ho-mo, a black berry the Size of a Cherry & Dried which they call Shel-well,—all of which they prise highly and make use of as food to live on, for which Capt Lewis gave the chief a Cap of Sheep Skin and I his Son, ear bobs, Piece of riben, a pice of brass, and 2 Small fishing hooks, of which they were much pleased Those roots & berres, are greatfull to our Stomcks as we have nothing to eate but Pore Elk meet, nearly Spoiled; & this accident of Spoiled meet, is owing to wormth & the repeeted rains, which cause the meet to tante before we Can get it from the woods Musquetors troublesorn
December 27th, Friday, 1805. It rained last night as usual and most of today. The men finished the chimneys and bunks today. In the evening, a chief and four men from the Clatsop nation came by. Chief Co-ma wool. We sent R. Fields and Collins out to hunt and told Drewyer, Shannon, and Labiach to set out early tomorrow to hunt. Jo Fields, Bratten, and Gibson were to make salt at Point Adams, while Willard and Wiser helped them carry the kettles and other supplies to the ocean, and everyone else was to finish the pickets and gates. It was warm weather. I saw a mosquito, which I showed to Captain Lewis. Those Indians gave us a black root they call Shan-na-tah que, a type of licorice which they roast in embers and call Cul ho-mo, and a dried black berry the size of a cherry, which they call Shel-well—all of which they highly value and use as food. Captain Lewis gave the chief a cap made of sheepskin, and to his son, earrings, a piece of ribbon, a piece of brass, and two small fishing hooks, which they were very pleased with. Those roots and berries are great for our stomachs since we have nothing to eat but poor elk meat that’s nearly spoiled, and this problem with the spoiled meat is due to the warmth and repeated rains, which cause the meat to spoil before we can get it from the woods. Mosquitoes are bothersome.
[Clark, December 27, 1805]
Friday 27th December 1805 rained last night as usial and the greater part of this day. In the evening Co-mo wool the Chief and 4 men of the Clat Sop nation they presented us a root which resembles the licquirish in Size and taste, which they roste like a potato which they Call Cul ho-mo, also a black root which is cured in a kill like the pash-a-co above; this root has a Sweet taste and the natives are verry fond of it—they Call this root Shaw-na-tah-que. also a dried berry about the size of a Chery which they Call Shele well all those roots those Indians value highly and give them verry Spearingly. in return for the above roots Capt Lewis gave the Chief a Small piece of Sheap Skin to Ware on his head, I gave his Son a par of ear bobs and a pece of ribon, and a Small piece of brass for which they were much pleased.
Friday, December 27, 1805, rained last night as usual and for most of today. In the evening, Co-mo wool, the Chief, and four men from the Clat Sop nation presented us with a root that looks and tastes like licorice, which they roast like a potato and call Cul ho-mo. They also gave us a black root that’s cured like the pash-a-co mentioned before; this root is sweet, and the natives are very fond of it—they call this root Shaw-na-tah-que. Additionally, they brought us a dried berry about the size of a cherry, which they call Shele. The natives highly value all these roots and trade them very sparingly. In return for the roots, Captain Lewis gave the Chief a small piece of sheepskin to wear on his head. I gave his son a pair of earrings, a piece of ribbon, and a small piece of brass, which made them very happy.
Those roots and berries are timely and extreamly greatfull to our Stomachs, as we have nothing to eate but Spoiled Elk meat, I Showed Capt L. 2 Musquetors to day, or an insect So much the Size Shape and appearance of a Musquetor that we Could observe no kind of differance.
Those roots and berries are really important and incredibly beneficial for our stomachs since we have nothing to eat except spoiled elk meat. I showed Captain L. two mosquitoes today, or rather an insect that was exactly the size, shape, and appearance of a mosquito, and we couldn't observe any difference.
[Clark, December 28, 1805]
December 28th Saturday 1805 rained as usial, a great part of the last night, and this morning rained and the wind blew hard from the S. E. Sent out the hunters and Salt makers, & employd the baleanc of the men Carrying the Pickets &c. &c. hunters Sent out yesterday returned, haveing killed one deer near the Sea cost, my boy york verry unwell from violent Colds & Strains Carrying in meet and lifting logs on the huts to build them, This day is worm, and rained all day moderately without intermition.
December 28th, Saturday, 1805, rained as usual, a big part of last night, and this morning it continued to rain with strong winds from the southeast. I sent out the hunters and salt makers, and the rest of the men were busy carrying the pickets and other supplies. The hunters sent out yesterday returned, having killed one deer near the coast. My boy York is very unwell from severe colds and strains from carrying meat and lifting logs for the huts. Today is warm, and it rained moderately all day without interruption.
[Clark, December 28, 1805]
Saturday the 28th December 1805 rained as usial the greater part of the last night and a continuation this morning accompanied with wind from the S East Derected Drewyer, Shannon, Labeash, Reuben Field, and Collins to hunt; Jos. Fields, Bratten, Gibson to proceed to the Ocean at Some Convenient place form a Camp and Commence makeing Salt with 5 of the largest Kittles, and Willard and Wiser to assist them in Carrying the Kittles to the Sea Coastall the other men to be employed about putting up pickets & makeing the gates of the fort. my man Y. verry unwell from a violent Coald and Strain by Carrying meet from the woods and lifting the heavy logs on the works &c. rained all Day without intermition. the Weather verry worm.
Saturday, December 28, 1805, it rained as usual for most of the night and continued into this morning, accompanied by wind from the southeast. I directed Drewyer, Shannon, Labeash, Reuben Field, and Collins to go hunting; Jos. Fields, Bratten, and Gibson were to head to the ocean at a suitable location to set up a camp and start making salt using five of the largest kettles, with Willard and Wiser helping them carry the kettles to the coast. The rest of the men were to focus on putting up pickets and making the gates of the fort. My man Y. is feeling very unwell from a bad cold and straining from carrying meat from the woods and lifting heavy logs for the work, etc. It rained all day without interruption, and the weather was very warm.
[Clark, December 29, 1805]
December 29th Sunday 1805 rained last night as usial, this morning Cloudy without rain a hard wind from the S. E. The Inds. left us this morning and returned to their village, after begging for maney things which they did not secure as we Could not Spare them I gave the Chief Canio a Razor, Sent out 3 men across the river to hunt, all others employd putting up pickets Pete Crusat Sick with a violent Cold My Servent better—we are told by the Indians that a whale has foundered on the Coast to the N. W and their nations is collecting fat of him, the wind is too high for us to See it, Capt Lewis is been in readiness 2 days to go and Collect Some of the whale oyle the wind has proved too high as yet for him to Set out in Safty In the evening a young Chief 4 men and 2 womin of the War-ci-a-cum tribe came in a large canoe with Wapto roots, Dressed Elk Skins &c. to Sell, the Chief made me a present of about a half a bushel of those roots—we gave him a medal of a Small Size and a piece of red ribin to tie around the top of his Hat which was made with a double Cone, the diameter of the upper about 3 Inches the lower a about 1 foot
December 29, Sunday, 1805. It rained last night as usual; this morning it's cloudy with no rain and a strong wind from the southeast. The Indians left us this morning and returned to their village after asking for many things we couldn't spare. I gave the Chief Canio a razor and sent out three men across the river to hunt, while everyone else was busy putting up pickets. Pete Crusat is sick with a bad cold, but my servant is feeling better. The Indians told us that a whale has stranded on the coast to the northwest, and their tribe is gathering fat from it. The wind is too strong for us to see it. Captain Lewis has been ready for two days to go collect some whale oil, but the wind has remained too high for him to set out safely. In the evening, a young chief, four men, and two women from the War-ci-a-cum tribe arrived in a large canoe with wapato roots, dressed elk skins, etc., to sell. The chief gifted me about half a bushel of those roots. We gave him a small medal and a piece of red ribbon to tie around the top of his hat, which was made with a double cone, the diameter of the upper part being about three inches and the lower part about one foot.
We purchased about 11/2 bushels of those roots for which we gave Some few red beeds, Small pices of brass wire and old Check—those roots proved greatfull to us as we are now liveing on Spoiled Elk which is extreamly disagreeable to the Smel. as well as the taste, I can plainly discover that a considerable exchange of property is Continually Carried on between the Tribes and villages of those people they all dress litely ware nothing below the waste, a pice of fur abt. around the body, and a Short robe which Composes the total of their dress, except a few Split hats, and heeds around ther necks wrists and anckles, and a few in their ears. They are small and not handsom generally Speaking women perticularly.
We bought about 1.5 bushels of those roots and traded a few red beads, small pieces of brass wire, and some old checks for them. Those roots have been really useful to us since we are currently eating spoiled elk, which is extremely unpleasant in both smell and taste. I've noticed that a significant trade of goods is constantly happening between the tribes and villages of these people. They all dress lightly, wearing nothing below the waist, just a piece of fur wrapped around their bodies, and a short robe, which makes up their entire outfit, along with a few split hats and beads around their necks, wrists, and ankles, as well as a few in their ears. Generally speaking, they are small and not particularly attractive, especially the women.
The Chin nook womin are lude and Carry on Sport publickly the Clotsop and others appear deffidend, and reserved The flees are So noumerous in this Countrey and difficult to get Cleare of that the Indians have difft. houses & villages to which they remove frequently to get rid of them, and not withstanding all their precautions, they never Step into our hut without leaveing Sworms of those troublesom insects. Indeed I Scercely get to Sleep half the night Clear of the torments of those flees, with the precaution of haveing my blankets Serched and the flees killed every day—The 1 s of those insects we Saw on the Collumbia River was at the 1 s Great falls—I have the Satisfaction to Say that we had but little rain in the Course of this day, not as much as would wet a person. but hard wind and Cloudy all day.
The Chinook women are bold and openly carry on with sports while the Clatsop and others seem shy and reserved. The fleas are so numerous in this area and hard to get rid of that the Indians have different houses and villages where they frequently move to escape them, and despite all their precautions, they never enter our hut without leaving swarms of these annoying insects behind. Honestly, I barely get to sleep for half the night without being tormented by those fleas, even with the precaution of having my blankets checked and the fleas killed every day. The first time we saw those insects was at the Great Falls on the Columbia River. I’m glad to say we had very little rain today, not enough to even dampen a person, but it was very windy and cloudy all day.
[Clark, December 29, 1805]
Sunday 29th December 1805 rained all the last night a usial, this morning Cloudy without rain, a hard wind from the S. E I gave the Cheif a razor, and himself and party left us after begging us for maney articles none of which they recvied as we Could not Spare the articles they were most in want of. Peter Crusat
Sunday, December 29th, 1805, rained all night as usual. This morning was cloudy without rain, with a strong wind coming from the southeast. I gave the Chief a razor, and he and his group left us after asking for many items, none of which they received since we couldn't spare the things they needed the most. Peter Crusat
Sick with a violent Cold, my man Y. better. all hands employed about the Pickets & gates of the fort. we were informed day before yesterday that a whale had foundered on the coast to the S. W. near the Kil a mox N. and that the greater part of the Clat Sops were gorn for the oile & blubber, the wind proves too high for us to proceed by water to See this monster, Capt Lewis has been in readiness Since we first heard of the whale to go and see it and collect Some of its Oil, the wind has proved too high as yet for him to proceed—this evining a young Chief 4 Men and 2 womin of the War ci a cum Nation arrived, and offered for Sale Dressed Elk Skins and Wap pa to, the Chief made us a preasent of about 1/2 a bushel of those roots. and we purchased about 11/2 bushels of those roots for which we gave Some fiew red beeds Small peaces of brass wire & old Check those roots proved a greatfull addition to our Spoiled Elk, which has become verry disagreeable both to the taste & Smell we gave this Chief a Medal of a Small Size and a piece of red riben to tie around the top of his hat which was of a Singular Construction Those people will not Sell all their Wap pa to to us they inform us that they are on their way to trade with the Chit Sops. The nations above Carry on a verry Considerable interchange of property with those in this neighbourhood. they pass altogether by water, they have no roads or pathes through the Countrey which we have observed, except across portages from one Creek to another, all go litely dressed ware nothing below the waste in the Coaldest of weather, a piece of fur around their bodies and a Short roabe Composes the Sum total of their dress, except a few hats, and heeds about their necks arms and legs Small badly made and homely generally. The flees are So noumerous and hard to get rid of; that the Indians have different houses which they resort to occasionally, not withstanding all their precautions they never Step into our house without leaveing Sworms of those tormenting insects; and they torment us in Such a manner as to deprive us of half the nights Sleep frequently—the first of those insects which we saw on the Columbian waters was at the Canoe portage at the great falls. Hard winds & Cloudy all day but verry little rain to day.
Sick with a bad cold, my man Y. is recovering. Everyone is busy at the pickets and gates of the fort. We were informed the day before yesterday that a whale had washed up on the coast to the southwest, near Kilamox N., and that most of the Clatsops were gone to get its oil and blubber. The wind has been too strong for us to go by water to see this monster. Captain Lewis has been ready to go and check it out and collect some oil since we first heard about the whale, but the wind has been too strong for him to leave. This evening a young chief, four men, and two women from the Warciacum Nation arrived and offered to sell us dressed elk skins and wapato. The chief gave us a gift of about half a bushel of those roots, and we bought about one and a half bushels of the roots in exchange for a few red beads, small pieces of brass wire, and some old checks. These roots were a great addition to our spoiled elk, which has become very unpleasant both in taste and smell. We gave this chief a small medal and a piece of red ribbon to tie around the top of his uniquely constructed hat. They won't sell all their wapato to us, telling us they are on their way to trade with the Chitsops. The nations upstream trade a lot with those in this area, and they do so entirely by water; they don't have any roads or paths in the country we've observed, except for portages from one creek to another. They dress lightly, wearing nothing below the waist in the coldest weather; a piece of fur around their bodies and a short robe make up their entire outfit, aside from a few hats and beads around their necks, arms, and legs, which are small, poorly made, and often unattractive. The fleas are so numerous and hard to get rid of that the Indians have different houses they go to occasionally. Despite all their precautions, they never enter our house without leaving swarms of those irritating insects behind, and they bother us so much that we often lose half a night's sleep. The first of those insects we saw on the Columbia waters was at the canoe portage at the Great Falls. It has been windy and cloudy all day, but very little rain has fallen today.
[Clark, December 30, 1805]
December 30th Monday 1805 Hard wind and Some rain last night, this morning fair and the Sun Shown for a Short time 4 Indians Came from the upper Villages they offered us roots which we did not Chuse to axcept of, as their expectations for those presents of a fiew roots is 3 or 4 times their real worth, those Indians with those of yesterday Continued all day. Drewyer & party of hunters returned and informed they had killed 4 Elk, a party of 6 men was imediately Sent for the meet, they returned at Dusk, with the 4 Elk, of which we had a Sumptious Supper of Elk Tongues & marrow bones which was truly gratifying.
December 30th, Monday 1805. A strong wind and some rain last night. This morning, the weather is clear and the sun is shining for a brief period. Four Native Americans came from the upper villages and offered us roots, but we chose not to accept them, as they expected gifts worth three or four times the actual value of the roots. Those Indians, along with the ones from yesterday, stayed all day. Drewyer and his group of hunters came back and told us they had killed four elk. A party of six men was immediately sent to bring back the meat. They returned at dusk with the four elk, and we had a lavish dinner featuring elk tongues and marrow bones, which was truly satisfying.
The fort was Completed this evening and at Sun Set we let The Indians know that, our Custom will be to Shut the gates at Sun Set, at which time, they must all go out of the fort those people who are verry foward and disegreeable, left the huts with reluctiance—This day proved the best we have had Since at this place, only 3 Showers of rain to day, Cloudy nearly all day, in the evening the wind luled and the fore part of the night fair and clear. I Saw flies & different kinds of insects in motion to day Snakes are yet to be seen, and Snales without Cover is Common and large, fowls of every kind Common to this quarter abound in the Creek & Bay near us
The fort was completed this evening, and at sunset, we informed the Indians that our custom is to shut the gates at sunset. At that time, they must all leave the fort. The individuals who are quite forward and unpleasant left the huts reluctantly. Today has been the best we've had here, with only three short rain showers and cloudy weather for most of the day. In the evening, the wind calmed down, and the first part of the night was fair and clear. I saw flies and various kinds of insects moving around today; snakes are still visible, and slugs without shells are common and large. Birds of all kinds are abundant in the creek and bay near us.
[Clark, December 30, 1805]
Monday 30th December 1805 Hard wind and Some rain last night. this morning the Sun Shown for a Short time—four Indians came down from the War cia cum Village, they offered us roots which we did not think proper to accept of as in return they expect 3 or 4 times as much as the roots as we Could purchase the Roots for, and are never Satisfied with what they receive, those 4 Indians & these that Came yesterday Stayed all day. Drewyer returned and informed that he had killed 4 Elk at no great distance off, a party of 6 men was imediately dispatched for the meat, and returned at Dusk with the 4 Elk—we had a Sumptious Supper of Elks tongues & marrow bones which was truly gratifying—our fortification is Completed this evening-and at Sun Set we let the nativs know that our Custom will be in future, to Shut the gates at Sun Set at which time all Indians must go out of the fort and not return into it untill next morning after Sunrise at which time the gates will be opened, those of the War ci a cum Nation who are very foward left the houses with reluctianc this day proved to be the fairest and best which we have had since our arrival at this place, only three Showers dureing this whole day, wind the fore part of the day.
Monday, December 30, 1805. A strong wind and some rain fell last night. This morning, the sun shone for a short while. Four Indians came down from the Warcia cum village; they offered us roots, which we didn’t think it was right to accept, as they expect three or four times the amount of roots we could buy them for and are never satisfied with what they get. These four Indians, along with those who came yesterday, stayed all day. Drewyer returned and reported that he had killed four elk not far away, so a party of six men was immediately sent for the meat and returned at dusk with the four elk. We had a delicious supper of elk tongues and marrow bones that was truly satisfying. Our fortification was completed this evening, and at sunset we informed the natives that from now on, we would shut the gates at sunset, at which time all Indians must leave the fort and not return until the next morning after sunrise when the gates will open. Those from the Warcia cum Nation, who are quite forward, reluctantly left the houses. Today proved to be the fairest and best day we’ve had since our arrival here, with only three showers throughout the entire day, and wind in the morning.
[Clark, December 31, 1805]
December 31st Tuesday 1805 A Cloudy night & Some rain, this day proved Cloudy and Some Showers of rain to day all the Indians Continued at their Camp near us, 2 others Canoes Came one from the War-ci-a-cum Village, with three Indians, and the other from higher up the river of the Skil-lute nation with three men and a Squar; Those people brought with them Some Wapto roots, mats made of flags, & rushes, dried fish and Some fiew Shene-tock-we (or black) roots & Dressed Elk Skins, all of which they asked enormous prices for, particularly the Dressed Elk Skins; I purchased of those people Some Wapto roots, two mats and a Small pouch of Tobacco of their own manufactory—for which I gave large fish hooks, which they were verry fond, those Indians are much more reserved and better behaved to day than yesterday—the Sight of our Sentinal who walks on his post, has made this reform in those people who but yesterday was verry impertenant and disagreeable to all—This evening they all Cleared out before the time to Shut the gates, without being derected to doe So—I derected Sinks to be dug and a Sentinal Box which was accomplished one of those Indeans brought a Musquet to be repared, which only wanted a Screw flattened, for which he gave me a Peck of Wapto roots, I gave him a flint and a pice of Sheep Skin of which he was pleased
December 31st, Tuesday, 1805 It was a cloudy night with some rain. Today was overcast with occasional showers. The Indians continued to camp nearby. Two more canoes arrived—one from the War-ci-a-cum Village with three Indians and the other from further up the river from the Skil-lute nation, also with three men and a woman. They brought with them some Wapto roots, mats made from cattails and rushes, dried fish, a few black roots, and dressed elk skins, all of which they asked crazy prices for, especially the dressed elk skins. I bought some Wapto roots, two mats, and a small pouch of tobacco they had made, for which I gave them large fish hooks that they really liked. The Indians were much more reserved and better behaved today compared to yesterday. The sight of our sentinel on duty seemed to improve their behavior, as they had been very rude and unpleasant to everyone before. This evening, they all left before it was time to close the gates, without me having to tell them to do so. I ordered some sinks to be dug and a sentinel box to be built, which was done. One of the Indians brought a musket for repair; it just needed a flattened screw. He gave me a peck of Wapto roots for it, and I gave him a flint and a piece of sheepskin, which he appreciated.
[Clark, December 31, 1805]
Tuesday 31st December 1805 last night was Cloudy and Some rain, this day prove Cloudy and Showerry all day, all the Indians Continue at their Camp near us, two other Canoes arrived, one from the War ci a cum Village with 3 indians and the other of 3 men & a Squar from higher up the river and are of the Skil-lute nation, those people brought with them Some Wappato roots, mats made of flags and rushes dried fish, and a fiew Shaw-na tah-que and Dressed Elk Skins, all of which they asked enormous prices for, perticularly the dressed Elk Skins, I purchased of those people Some Wap pa to two mats and about 3 pipes of their tobacco in a neet little bag made of rushes—This tobacco was much like what we had Seen before with the So So ne or Snake indians, for those articles I gave a large fishing hook and Several other Small articles, the fishinghooks they were verry fond of. Those Skit lutes are much better behaved than the War ci a cum indeed we found a great alteration in the Conduct of them all this morning, the Sight of our Sentinal on his post at the gate, together with our deturmined proseedure of putting all out at Sun Set has made this reform in those War ci a corns who is foward impertinant an thieveish.
Tuesday, December 31, 1805 - Last night was cloudy with some rain. Today has been cloudy and showery all day. The Indians are still camped near us. Two more canoes arrived; one came from War ci a cum Village with 3 Indians, and the other contained 3 men and a woman from further up the river, part of the Skil-lute nation. They brought some Wappato roots, mats made of flags and rushes, dried fish, and a few Shaw-na tah-que and dressed elk skins, all of which they were asking outrageous prices for, especially the dressed elk skins. I ended up purchasing some Wappato, two mats, and about 3 pipes of their tobacco in a neat little bag made of rushes. This tobacco was quite similar to what we had seen before with the So So ne or Snake Indians. In exchange for those items, I gave them a large fishing hook and several other small articles, as they were very fond of fishing hooks. The Skil-lutes are behaving much better than the War ci a cum. We noticed a significant change in everyone's behavior this morning. The sight of our sentinel on post at the gate, along with our firm decision to send everyone away at sunset, has improved the conduct of the War ci a cum, who were previously forward, rude, and thieving.
The nativs all leave us the fort this evening before Sun Set without being told or desired to do So—we had Sinks dug & a Sentinal box made- a Skit lute brought a gun which he requested me to have repared, it only wanted a Screw flattened So as to Catch, I put a flint into his gun & he presented me in return a peck of Wappato for payment, I gave him piece of a Sheap Skin and a Small piece of blue Cloth to Cover his lock for which he was much pleased and gave me in return Some roots &c.
The natives all left us at the fort this evening before sunset without being told or asked to do so. We had some sinks dug and a sentinel box made. A Native brought a gun to me, requesting that I get it repaired; it just needed a screw flattened to catch. I put a flint into his gun, and he offered me a peck of wapato as payment. I gave him a piece of sheepskin and a small piece of blue cloth to cover his lock, which pleased him a lot, and in return, he gave me some roots and other things.
I Saw flies and different kinds of insects in motion to day—Snakes are yet to be Seen and Snales without Covers is Common and verry large water fowls of various kinds are in great numbers in the rivers and Creeks and the sides of Meriwethers Bay near us but excessively wild- the fore part of this night fair and Clear
I saw flies and various kinds of insects moving today—snakes have yet to be seen, and slugs without shells are common. Very large waterfowl of different types are abundant in the rivers and creeks and along the shores of Meriwether's Bay near us, but they're extremely skittish. The front part of this night is fair and clear.
With the party of Clat Sops who visited us last was a man of much lighter Coloured than the nativs are generaly, he was freckled with long duskey red hair, about 25 years of age, and must Certainly be half white at least, this man appeared to understand more of the English language than the others of his party, but did not Speak a word of English, he possessed all the habits of the indians
With the group of Clat Sops who visited us last was a man with much lighter skin than the natives generally have. He was freckled with long, dusky red hair, about 25 years old, and must certainly be at least half white. This man seemed to understand more English than the others in his group, but didn't speak a word of it. He displayed all the habits of the Indians.
[Lewis, January 1, 1806]
Fort Clatsop 1806. January 1st Tuesday. This morning I was awoke at an early hour by the discharge of a volley of small arms, which were fired by our party in front of our quarters to usher in the new year; this was the only mark of rispect which we had it in our power to pay this celebrated day. our repast of this day tho better than that of Christmass, consisted principally in the anticipation of the 1st day of January 1807, when in the bosom of our friends we hope to participate in the mirth and hilarity of the day, and when with the zest given by the recollection of the present, we shall completely, both mentally and corporally, enjoy the repast which the hand of civilization has prepared for us. at present we were content with eating our boiled Elk and wappetoe, and solacing our thirst with our only beverage pure water. two of our hunters who set out this morning reterned in the evening having killed two bucks elk; they presented Capt. Clark and myself each a marrow-bone and tonge, on which we suped. visited today by a few of the Clotsops who brought some roots and burries for the purpose of trading with us. we were uneasy with rispect to two of our men, Willard and Wiser, who were dispatched on the 28th ulto. with the saltmakers, and were directed to return immediately; their not having returned induces us to believe it probable that they have missed their way.—our fourtification being now completed we issued an order for the more exact and uniform dicipline and government of the garrison. (see orderly book 1st January 1806).-
Fort Clatsop 1806. January 1st, Tuesday. This morning I was awakened early by the sound of a volley of small arms fired by our group in front of our quarters to welcome the new year; this was the only way we could celebrate this notable day. Our meal today, though better than Christmas, mainly consisted of looking forward to January 1st, 1807, when we hope to celebrate with our friends in joy and laughter, and when, remembering this moment, we will fully enjoy the meal that civilization has prepared for us, both in mind and body. For now, we were satisfied with our boiled elk and wappatoo, quenching our thirst with our only drink, pure water. Two of our hunters who set out this morning returned in the evening after successfully hunting two bull elk; they brought Capt. Clark and me each a marrow bone and tongue, which we had for supper. We were visited today by a few Clatsops who brought some roots and berries to trade with us. We were worried about two of our men, Willard and Wiser, who were sent out on the 28th of last month with the saltmakers and told to return immediately; their failure to come back makes us think they might have lost their way. With our fortification now completed, we issued an order for more precise and consistent discipline and governance of the garrison. (see orderly book 1st January 1806).
[Clark, January 1, 1806]
January 1st Wednesday 1806 This morning proved cloudy with moderate rain, after a pleasent worm night during which there fell but little rain—This morning at Day we wer Saluted from the party without, wishing us a "hapy new year" a Shout and discharge of their arms—no Indians to be Seen this morning- they left the place of their encampment dureing the last night The work of our houses and fort being now Complete, we Ishued an order in which we pointed out the rules & regulations for the government of the Party in respect to the Indians as also for the Safty and protection of our Selves &c.
January 1st, Wednesday, 1806 This morning was cloudy with moderate rain after a pleasant warm night, during which it hardly rained at all. At daybreak, we were hailed by the party outside, wishing us a "happy new year" with a shout and the discharge of their arms. There were no Indians in sight this morning; they left the site of their encampment during the night. With the work on our houses and fort now complete, we issued an order outlining the rules and regulations for governing the party concerning the Indians, as well as for the safety and protection of ourselves, etc.
two Clotsops Came with a mat and Some fiew roots of Cut wha mo, for which they asked a file they did not trade but Continued all night
two Clotsops came with a mat and some few roots of cut wha mo, for which they asked a file they did not trade but continued all night
Sent out 2 hunters this morning who returned, haveing killed 2 Elk about 3 miles distant, Some fiew Showers of rain in the Course of this day. Cloudy all the day.
Sent out 2 hunters this morning who came back after killing 2 elk about 3 miles away. There were a few light showers of rain throughout the day. It was cloudy all day.
[Clark, January 1, 1806]
Fort Clatsop 1806 Wednesday the 1st of January This morning I was awoke at an early hour by the discharge of a Volley of Small arms, which were fired by our party in front of our quarters to usher in the new year, this was the only mark of respect which we had it in our power to pay this Selibrated day. our repast of this day tho better than that of Christmas Consisted principally in the anticipation of the 1st day of January 1807, when in the bosom of our friends we hope to participate in the mirth and hilarity of the day, and when with the relish given by the recollection of the present, we Shall Completely, both mentally and Corparally, the repast which the hand of Civilization has produced for us. at present we were Content with eating our boiled Elk and Wappato, and Solacing our thirst with our only beverage pure water. two of our hunters who Set out this morning returned in the evening haveing killed two Buck Elks; they presented Capt. Lewis and my Self each a marrow bone and tongue on which we Suped—we are visited to day by a fiew of the Clatsops by water they brought some roots and berries for the purpose of tradeing with us. our fortification being now Complete we issue an order for the more exact and uniform dicipline and government of the garrison. (See orderly book Jany 2d 1806)
Fort Clatsop 1806 Wednesday, January 1st This morning, I was woken up early by the sound of gunfire from our team in front of our quarters to celebrate the new year. This was the only way we could show our respect for this special day. Our meal today, though better than Christmas’s, mainly consisted of looking forward to January 1st, 1807, when we hope to enjoy the joy and festivities with our friends. With the added enjoyment from our memories of now, we will fully appreciate the meal that civilization has prepared for us. For now, we were satisfied with eating our boiled elk and wapato, quenching our thirst with our only drink, pure water. Two of our hunters who set out this morning came back in the evening after killing two buck elks; they gave Captain Lewis and me each a marrow bone and tongue, which we used for supper. A few Clatsops visited us by water today, bringing some roots and berries to trade with us. Now that our fortification is complete, we issued an order for more precise and consistent discipline and governance of the garrison. (See orderly book Jan 2nd 1806)
[Lewis, January 1, 1806]
Fort Clatsop, January 1st 1806 The fort being now completed, the Commanding officers think proper to direct that the guard shall as usual consist of one Sergeant and three privates, and that the same be regularly relieved each morning at sun rise. The post of the new guard shall be in the room of the Sergeants rispectivly commanding the same. the centinel shall be posted, both day and night, on the parade in front of the commanding offercers quarters; tho should he at any time think proper to remove himself to any other part of the fort, in order the better to inform himself of the desighns or approach of any party of savages, he is not only at liberty, but is hereby required to do so. It shall be the duty of the centinel also to announce the arrival of all parties of Indians to the Sergeant of the Guard, who shall immediately report the same to the Commanding officers.
Fort Clatsop, January 1st, 1806 The fort is now complete, and the Commanding officers have decided that the guard will continue to consist of one Sergeant and three privates, who will be regularly relieved each morning at sunrise. The new guard will take position in place of the Sergeants who are respectively in charge. The sentinel will be posted, both day and night, in front of the Commanding officers' quarters; however, if he feels it necessary to move to another part of the fort to better observe the intentions or approach of any group of Native Americans, he is not just allowed, but required to do so. The sentinel is also responsible for announcing the arrival of any Native American groups to the Sergeant of the Guard, who will then immediately report this to the Commanding officers.
The Commanding Officers require and charge the Garrison to treat the natives in a friendly manner; nor will they be permitted at any time, to abuse, assault or strike them; unless such abuse assault or stroke be first given by the natives. nevertheless it shall be right for any individual, in a peaceable manner, to refuse admittance to, or put out of his room, any native who may become troublesome to him; and should such native refuse to go when requested, or attempt to enter their rooms after being forbidden to do so; it shall be the duty of the Sergeant of the guard on information of the same, to put such native out of the fort and see that he is not again admitted during that day unless specially permitted; and the Sergeant of the guard may for this purpose imploy such coercive measures (not extending to the taking of life) as shall at his discretion be deemed necessary to effect the same.
The Commanding Officers require the Garrison to treat the locals in a friendly way; they are not allowed to abuse, assault, or hit them at any time, unless the locals first initiate such abuse, assault, or attack. However, any individual has the right to peacefully refuse entry to or remove any local who becomes bothersome. If that local refuses to leave when asked, or tries to enter their room after being told not to, the Sergeant of the guard must remove that local from the fort upon being informed and ensure they are not allowed back in for the rest of the day unless specifically granted permission. The Sergeant of the guard may use necessary force (not including taking a life) to carry this out at their discretion.
When any native shall be detected in theft, the Sergt. of the guard shall immediately inform the Commanding offercers of the same, to the end that such measures may be pursued with rispect to the culprit as they shall think most expedient.
When any local person is caught stealing, the sergeant of the guard must promptly notify the commanding officers so that they can decide on the best actions to take regarding the offender.
At sunset on each day, the Sergt. attended by the interpreter Charbono and two of his guard, will collect and put out of the fort, all Indians except such as may specially be permitted to remain by the Commanding offercers, nor shall they be again admitted untill the main gate be opened the ensuing morning.
At sunset every day, the Sergeant, accompanied by the interpreter Charbono and two of his guards, will gather and remove all Indians from the fort, except for those who are specifically allowed to stay by the Commanding Officers. They will not be allowed back in until the main gate opens the next morning.
At Sunset, or immediately after the Indians have been dismissed, both gates shall be shut, and secured, and the main gate locked and continue so untill sunrise the next morning; the water-gate may be used freely by the Garrison for the purpose of passing and repassing at all times, tho from sunset, untill sunrise, it shall be the duty of the centinel, to open the gate for, and shut it after all persons passing and repassing, suffering the same never to remain unfixed long than is absolutely necessary.
At sunset, or right after the Indians have been dismissed, both gates will be closed and secured, with the main gate locked and remaining locked until sunrise the next morning. The water-gate can be used freely by the Garrison for coming and going at all times. However, from sunset to sunrise, it will be the centinel's responsibility to open the gate for anyone passing through and to close it after them, ensuring that it is never left open longer than absolutely necessary.
It shall be the duty of the Sergt. of the guard to keep the kee of the Meat house, and to cause the guard to keep regular fires therein when the same may be necessary; and also once at least in 24 hours to visit the canoes and see that they are safely secured; and shall further on each morning after he is relieved, make his report verbally to the Commandg officers.
It’s the responsibility of the Sergeant of the guard to oversee the Meat house and ensure that the guard maintains regular fires when needed. He must also check the canoes at least once every 24 hours to make sure they're securely tied up. Additionally, each morning after his shift ends, he should verbally report to the commanding officers.
Each of the old guard will every morning after being relieved furnish two loads of wood for the commanding offercers fire.
Each member of the old guard will, every morning after their shift ends, provide two loads of wood for the commanding officer's fire.
No man is to be particularly exempt from the duty of bringing meat from the woods, nor none except the Cooks and Interpreters from that of mounting guard.
No one is exempt from the responsibility of bringing food from the woods, except for the Cooks and Interpreters, who are also not excused from the duty of standing guard.
Each mess being furnished with an ax, they are directed to deposit in the room of the commanding offercers all other public tools of which they are possessed; nor shall the same at any time hereafter be taken from the said deposit without the knoledge and permission of the commanding officers; and any individual so borrowing the tools are strictly required to bring the same back the moment he has ceased to use them, and no case shall they be permited to keep them out all night.
Each mess is provided with an ax, and they are instructed to leave all other public tools they have in the room of the commanding officers; these tools may not be taken from that location without the knowledge and permission of the commanding officers. Anyone who borrows the tools must return them immediately after use, and under no circumstances are they allowed to keep them overnight.
Any individual selling or disposing of any tool or iron or steel instrument, arms, accoutrements or ammunicion, shall be deemed guilty of a breach of this order, and shall be tryed and punished accordingly.the tools loaned to John Shields are excepted from the restrictions of this order.
Any person selling or getting rid of any tool or iron or steel instrument, weapons, gear, or ammunition will be considered in violation of this order and will be tried and punished accordingly. The tools borrowed by John Shields are exempt from the restrictions of this order.
Meriwether Lewis Capt. 1st U.S. Regt. Wm. Clark Capt. &c
Meriwether Lewis, Captain, 1st U.S. Regiment; William Clark, Captain, etc.
[Lewis, January 2, 1806]
Thursday, January 2nd 1806 Sent out a party of men and brought in the two Elk which were killed yesterday. Willard and Wiser have not yet returned nor have a party of hunters returned who set out on the 26th Ulto. the Indians who visited yesterday left us at 1 P M today after having disposed of their roots and berries for a few fishinghooks and some other small articles. we are infested with swarms of flees already in our new habitations; the presumption is therefore strong that we shall not devest ourselves of this intolerably troublesome vermin during our residence here. The large, and small or whistling swan, sand hill Crane, large and small gees, brown and white brant, Cormorant, duckan mallard, Canvisback duck, and several other species of ducks, still remain with us; tho I do not think that they are as plenty as on our first arrival in the neighbourhood. Drewyer visited his traps and took an otter. the fur of both the beaver and otter in this country are extreemly good; those annamals are tolerably plenty near the sea coast, and on the small Creeks and rivers as high as the grand rappids, but are by no means as much so as on the upper part of the Missouri.
Thursday, January 2nd, 1806: Sent out a group of men and brought in the two elk that were killed yesterday. Willard and Wiser still haven't returned, nor has the group of hunters who left on the 26th of last month. The Indians who visited yesterday left at 1 PM today after trading their roots and berries for some fishing hooks and a few other small items. We are already dealing with swarms of fleas in our new homes, so it's likely we won't be able to get rid of this incredibly annoying pest during our stay here. The large and small or whistling swans, sandhill cranes, large and small geese, brown and white brant, cormorants, mallard ducks, canvasback ducks, and several other types of ducks are still around, though I don't think there are as many as when we first arrived in the area. Drewyer checked his traps and caught an otter. The fur of both beavers and otters in this area is extremely good; these animals are fairly common near the coastline and along the small creeks and rivers up to the Grand Rapids, but they are definitely not as numerous as in the upper part of the Missouri.
[Clark, January 2, 1806]
January 2nd Thursday 1806. A Cloudy rainey morning after a wet night. dispatched 12 Men for the two Elk Killed yesterday which they brought in at 11 oClock. the day proved Cloudy and wet, the Indians left us at 1 oClock P. M, Drewyer visited his traps which had one otter in one of them. The flees are verry troublesom, our huts have alreadey Sworms of those disagreeable insects in them, and I fear we Shall not get rid of them dureing our delay at this place.
January 2nd Thursday 1806. A cloudy, rainy morning after a wet night. I sent out 12 men for the two elk killed yesterday, which they brought back at 11 o'clock. The day stayed cloudy and wet. The Indians left us at 1 o'clock PM. Drewyer checked his traps, which had one otter in one of them. The fleas are very troublesome; our huts are already swarming with those pesky insects, and I worry we won’t be able to get rid of them during our stay here.
[Clark, January 2, 1806]
Thursday 2nd of January 1806. Sent out a party of men and brought in the two Elk which was killed yesterday. Willard & Wiser have not yet returned nor have a party of hunters who Set out on the 26th ulto the Indians who visited us yesterday left us at 1 P. M to day after haveing disposed of their roots and berries for a fiew fishing hooks and Some other Small articles. we are infestd. with Sworms of flees already in our new habatations; the presumption is therefore Strong that we Shall not devest our Selves of this intolerably troublesom vermin dureing our residence here. The large, & Small or whistling Swan, Sand hill crane, large & Small Gees, brown and white brant, Comorant, Duckanmallard, canvis back duck, and Several other Species of Ducks Still remain with us; tho I doe not think they are as plenty as on our first arrival in the neighbourhood. Drewyer visit his traps at took out an otter. the fur of both the beaver and otter as also the rackoon in this countrey are extreemly good; those animals are tolerably plenty near the Sea coast, on the Small creeks and rivers as high as the grand Rapids.
Thursday, January 2, 1806. We sent out a group of men and brought in the two elk that were killed yesterday. Willard and Wiser haven’t returned yet, nor have the group of hunters who left on the 26th of last month. The Indians who visited us yesterday left at 1 PM today after trading their roots and berries for a few fishing hooks and some other small items. We're already swarmed with fleas in our new shelters; it seems likely we won't be able to get rid of this bothersome vermin during our stay here. The large and small whistling swans, sandhill cranes, large and small geese, brown and white brant, cormorants, mallards, canvasback ducks, and several other species of ducks are still around, though I don’t think there are as many as when we first arrived in the area. Drewyer checked his traps and caught an otter. The fur from both the beaver and otter, as well as the raccoon in this region, is extremely good. These animals are fairly abundant near the coast and in the small creeks and rivers up to the Grand Rapids.
[Lewis, January 3, 1806]
Friday January 3d 1806. At 11 A.M. we were visited by our near neighbours, Chief or Tia, Como-wool; alias Conia and six Clatsops. they brought for sale some roots buries and three dogs also a small quantity of fresh blubber. this blubber they informed us they had obtained from their neighbours the Callamucksz who inhabit the coast to the S. E. near whose vilage a whale had recently perished. this blubber the Indians eat and esteeme it excellent food. our party from necessaty having been obliged to subsist some lenth of time on dogs have now become extreemly fond of their flesh; it is worthy of remark that while we lived principally on the flesh of this anamal we were much more healthy strong and more fleshey than we had been since we left the Buffaloe country. for my own part I have become so perfectly reconciled to the dog that I think it an agreeable food and would prefer it vastly to lean Venison or Elk. a small Crow, the blue crested Corvus and the smaller corvus with a white brest, the little brown ren, a large brown sparrow, the bald Eagle and the beatifull Buzzard of the columbia still continue with us.—Sent Sergt. Gass and George Shannon to the saltmakers who are somewhere on the coast to the S. W. of us, to enquire after Willard and Wiser who have not yet returned. Reubin Fields Collins and Pots the hunters who set out on the 26th Ulto. returned this evening after dark. they reported that they had been about 15 Miles up the river at the head of the bay just below us and had hunted the country from thence down on the East side of the river, even to a considerable distance from it and had proved unsuccessful) having killed one deer and a few fowls, barely as much as subsisted them. this reminded us of the necessity of taking time by the forelock, and keep out several parties while we have yet a little meat beforehand.I gave the Chief Comowooll a pare of sattin breechies with which he appeared much pleased.
Friday, January 3, 1806. At 11 A.M., we were visited by our close neighbors, Chief Tia, Como-wool, also known as Conia, and six Clatsops. They brought some roots, berries, and three dogs for sale, as well as a small quantity of fresh blubber. They informed us that this blubber came from their neighbors, the Callamucks, who live on the coast to the southeast, near whose village a whale had recently died. The Indians eat this blubber and consider it excellent food. Our group, due to necessity, had been relying on dogs for some time and had now developed a strong liking for their meat. It’s worth noting that while we primarily lived on dog meat, we were much healthier, stronger, and bulkier than we had been since leaving the Buffalo country. Personally, I have become so accustomed to dog meat that I find it quite enjoyable and would much prefer it over lean venison or elk. A small crow, the blue-crested Corvus, the smaller corvus with a white breast, the little brown wren, a large brown sparrow, the bald eagle, and the beautiful buzzard of the Columbia continue to accompany us. I sent Sergeant Gass and George Shannon to the saltmakers, who are somewhere on the coast to the southwest of us, to inquire about Willard and Wiser, who have not yet returned. Reubin Fields, Collins, and Pots, the hunters who set out on the 26th of last month, returned this evening after dark. They reported that they had gone about 15 miles up the river to the head of the bay just below us and had hunted the area from there down on the east side of the river, venturing quite a distance from it, but they were unsuccessful, having only killed one deer and a few birds, barely enough to sustain them. This reminded us of the need to act quickly and keep several parties out while we still have some meat left. I gave Chief Como-wool a pair of satin breeches, which he seemed very pleased with.
[Clark, January 3, 1806]
January 3rd Friday 1806 The Sun rose fair this morning for the first time for Six weeks past, the Clouds Soon obscure it from our view, and a Shower of rain Suckceededlast night we had Sharp lightening a hard thunder Suckceeded with heavy Showers of hail, and rain, which Continud with intervales of fair moon Shine dureing the night. Sent out Sergt. Gass & 2 men to the Salt makers with a vew to know what is the Cause of the delay of 2 of our party Willard & Wiser who we are uneasy about, as they were to have been back 6 days ago.
January 3rd, Friday, 1806 The sun rose beautifully this morning for the first time in six weeks, but soon the clouds obscured it from view. We had a heavy rain shower last night, along with sharp lightning and loud thunder, followed by heavy showers of hail and rain, which continued with breaks of clear moonlight during the night. I sent out Sergeant Gass and two men to the salt makers to find out the cause of the delay of two of our party, Willard and Wiser, who we’re worried about since they were supposed to return six days ago.
[Clark, January 3, 1806]
Friday the 3rd January 1806 At 11 A. m. we were visited by our near neighbour Chief (or Tia) Co mo wool alias Conia and Six Clat sops. they brought for Sale Some roots berries and 3 Dogs also a Small quantity of fresh blubber. this blubber they informed us they had obtained from their neighbours the Cal la mox who inhabit the coast to the S. E near one of their Villages a Whale had recently perished. this blubber the Indians eat and esteem it excellent food. our party from necescity have been obliged to Subsist Some length of time on dogs have now become extreamly fond of their flesh; it is worthey of remark that while we lived principally on the flesh of this animal we wer much more helthy Strong and more fleshey then we have been Sence we left the Buffalow Country. as for my own part I have not become reconsiled to the taste of this animal as yet. a Small Crow, the blue Crested Corvus and the Smaller Corvus with a white breast, the little brown ren, and a large brown Sparrow, the bald Eagle, and the butifull Buzzard of the Columbia Still Continue with us, Send Sarjt. Gass and G. Shannon to the Salt makers who are on the Sea Coast to the S, W. of us, to enquire after Willard & Wiser who have not yet returned. R. Field, potts & Collins the hunters who Set out on the 28th ulto. returned this evening after dark. they reported that they had been about 15 miles up the river which falls into Meriwethers Bay to the East of us, and had hunted the Country a considerable distance to East, and had proved unsucksesfull haveing killed one Deer and a fiew fowls, bearly as much as Subsisted them. this reminded us of the necessity of takeing time by the forelock, and keep out Several parties while we have yet a little meat beforehand. Capt Lewis gave the Cheif Cania a par of Sattin breechies with which he appeared much pleased.
Friday, January 3, 1806 At 11 a.m., our close neighbor Chief (or Tia) Co mo wool, also known as Conia, and six Clat sops visited us. They brought some roots, berries, and three dogs, along with a small amount of fresh blubber. They told us they had obtained this blubber from their neighbors, the Cal la mox, who live along the coast to the southeast near one of their villages where a whale had recently died. The Indians eat this blubber and consider it excellent food. Out of necessity, our party has had to rely on dogs for quite some time and have now grown very fond of their meat; it’s worth noting that while we primarily ate this animal, we were much healthier, stronger, and more robust than we have been since leaving the Buffalo Country. For my part, I still haven't gotten used to the taste of this animal. A small crow, the blue-crested Corvus, and the smaller white-breasted Corvus, along with the little brown wren, a large brown sparrow, the bald eagle, and the beautiful buzzard of Columbia are still with us. I sent Sgt. Gass and G. Shannon to the salt makers on the southwest coast to check on Willard & Wiser, who have not returned yet. R. Field, Potts, and Collins, the hunters who left on the 28th of last month, returned this evening after dark. They reported that they had gone about 15 miles up the river that flows into Meriwether’s Bay to the east of us and had hunted a considerable distance eastward without much success, having only killed one deer and a few birds, barely enough to sustain them. This reminded us of the need to take advantage of the time we have left and send out several parties while we still have a bit of meat stored. Capt. Lewis gave Chief Cania a pair of satin breeches, which he seemed quite pleased with.
[Lewis, January 4, 1806]
Saturday January 4th 1806. Comowooll and the Clatsops who visited us yesterday left us in the evening. These people the Chinnooks and others residing in this neighbourhood and speaking the same language have been very friendly to us; they appear to be a mild inoffensive people but will pilfer if they have an opportuny to do so where they conceive themselves not liable to detection. they are great higlers in trade and if they conceive you anxious to purchase will be a whole day bargaining for a handfull of roots; this I should have thought proceeded from their want of knowledge of the comparitive value of articles of merchandize and the fear of being cheated, did I not find that they invariably refuse the price first offered them and afterwards very frequently accept a smaller quantity of the same article; in order to satisfy myself on this subject I once offered a Chinnook my watch two knives and a considerable quantity of beads for a small inferior sea Otter's skin which I did not much want, he immediately conceived it of great value, and refused to barter except I would double the quantity of beads; the next day with a great deal of importunity on his part I received the skin in exchange for a few strans of the same beads he had refused the day before. I therefore believe this trait in their character proceeds from an avaricious all grasping disposition. in this rispect they differ from all Indians I ever became acquainted with, for their dispositions invariably lead them to give whatever they are possessed off no matter how usefull or valuable, for a bauble which pleases their fancy, without consulting it's usefullness or value. nothing interesting occurred today, or more so, than our wappetoe being all exhausted.
Saturday, January 4th, 1806. Comowooll and the Clatsops, who visited us yesterday, left in the evening. These people, along with the Chinnooks and others living in this area and speaking the same language, have been very friendly to us. They seem to be gentle, harmless people, but they will steal if they think they won't get caught. They are great traders, and if they sense you're eager to buy, they will spend all day bargaining for a handful of roots. I might have thought this was due to their lack of understanding of the relative value of goods and fear of being cheated, had I not found that they always refuse the first price offered and often go on to accept a smaller amount of the same item. To test this, I once offered a Chinnook my watch, two knives, and a good number of beads for a small, low-quality sea otter skin that I didn't really want. He immediately thought it was very valuable and refused to trade unless I doubled the amount of beads. The next day, with much insistence from him, I got the skin in exchange for just a few strands of the same beads he had turned down the day before. I therefore believe this trait in their character comes from a greedy, all-consuming nature. In this respect, they are different from all the Indians I have ever met, as their nature usually drives them to give away whatever they have, no matter how useful or valuable, for some trinket that appeals to them without considering its usefulness or worth. Nothing interesting happened today, except that our wappetoe was all used up.
[Clark, January 4, 1806]
Saturday 4th January 1806 Comowool and the Clatsops who visited us yesterday left us in the morning. Those people the Chinnook and others resideing in this neighbourhood and Speaking the Same language have been very friendly to us; they appear to be a mild inoffensive people but will pilfer if they have an oppertunity to do So when they Conceive themselves not liable to detection. they are great higlers in trade and if they Conceive you anxious to purchase will be a whole day bargaining for a hand full of roots; this I Should have thought proceeded from their want of Knowledge of the Comparitive value of articles of merchindize and the fear of being Cheated, did I not find that they invariably refuse the price first offered them and afterwards very frequently accept a Smaller quantity of the Same article; in order to Satisfy myself on this point, I once offered a Clatsop man my watch a knife, a Dollar of the Coin of U State and hand full of beeds, for a Small Sea otter Skin, which I did not much want, he immediately Conceived it of great value, and refused to Sell unless I would give as maney more beads; the next day with a great deel of importunity on his part we receved the Skin in exchange for a fiew Strans of the Same beeds he had refused the day before. I therefore beleive this treat in their Charector proceeds from an avericious all grasping dis-position. in this respect they differ from all Indians I ever became acquainted with, for their dispositions invariably lead them to give what ever they are possessed off no matter how usefull or valueable, for a bauble which pleases their fancy, without Consulting its usefullness or value. nothing occured to day, or more So, than our wappato being all exhausted.
Saturday, January 4, 1806 Comowool and the Clatsops who visited us yesterday left in the morning. These people, the Chinook and others living in this area and speaking the same language, have been very friendly to us; they seem to be mild, non-aggressive people but will steal if they think they won't get caught. They are great traders, and if they sense you're eager to buy, they will spend the whole day haggling over a handful of roots. I would have thought this came from their lack of understanding of the comparative value of goods and fear of being cheated, if I hadn't found that they always refuse the initial price offered to them and then often accept a smaller quantity of the same item later on. To satisfy my curiosity on this point, I once offered a Clatsop man my watch, a knife, a dollar coin from the U.S., and a handful of beads for a small sea otter skin, which I didn't really need. He immediately thought it was very valuable and refused to sell unless I gave him many more beads. The next day, after considerable insistence from him, we received the skin in exchange for a few strands of the same beads he had turned down the day before. I therefore believe this trait in their character comes from a greedy, all-consuming disposition. In this respect, they differ from all the Indians I have ever known, as their tendencies usually lead them to give away whatever they have, no matter how useful or valuable, for a trinket that pleases their fancy, without considering its usefulness or value. Nothing notable happened today, except that our wappato was all used up.
[Lewis, January 5, 1806]
Sunday January 5th 1806. At 5 P.M. Willard and Wiser returned, they had not been lost as we apprehended. they informed us that it was not untill the fifth day after leaving the Fort that they could find a convenient place for making salt; that they had at length established themselves on the coast about 15 Miles S. W. from this, near the lodge of some Killamuck families; that the Indians were very friendly and had given them a considerable quantity of the blubber of a whale which perished on the coast some distance S. E. of them; part of this blubber they brought with them, it was white & not unlike the fat of Poark, tho the texture was more spongey and somewhat coarser. I had a part of it cooked and found it very pallitable and tender, it resembled the beaver or the dog in flavour. it may appear somewhat extraordinary tho it is a fact that the flesh of the beaver and dog possess a very great affinity in point of flavour. These lads also informed us that J. Fields, Bratton and Gibson (the Salt makers) had with their assistance erected a comfortable camp killed an Elk and several deer and secured a good stock of meat; they commenced the making of salt and found that they could obtain from 3 quarts to a gallon a day; they brought with them a specemine of the salt of about a gallon, we found it excellent, fine, strong, & white; this was a great treat to myself and most of the party, having not had any since the 20th ultmo.; I say most of the party, for my friend Capt. Clark declares it to be a mear matter of indifference with him whether he uses it or not; for myself I must confess I felt a considerable inconvenience from the want of it; the want of bread I consider as trivial provided, I get fat meat, for as to the species of meat I am not very particular, the flesh of the dog the horse and the wolf, having from habit become equally formiliar with any other, and I have learned to think that if the chord be sufficiently strong, which binds the soul and boddy together, it dose not so much matter about the materials which compose it. Colter also returned this evening unsuccessfull from the chase, having been absent since the 1st Inst.—Capt. Clark determined this evening to set out early tomorrow with two canoes and 12 men in quest of the whale, or at all events to purchase from the Indians a parcel of the blubber, for this purpose he prepared a small assortment of merchandize to take with him.
Sunday, January 5th, 1806. At 5 P.M., Willard and Wiser returned; they hadn’t been lost as we feared. They told us that it wasn't until the fifth day after leaving the Fort that they found a good spot for making salt. They finally set up camp on the coast about 15 miles southwest of here, near some Killamuck families. The Indians were very friendly and had given them a good amount of blubber from a whale that had washed up some distance southeast of them; they brought part of this blubber back with them. It was white and somewhat similar to pork fat, though its texture was spongier and a bit coarser. I cooked a piece of it and found it very tasty and tender; it tasted like beaver or dog. It might seem strange, but it's true that the flesh of beaver and dog have a lot of similarities in flavor. These guys also told us that J. Fields, Bratton, and Gibson (the salt makers) had built a comfortable camp with their help, killed an elk and several deer, and stocked up on meat. They started making salt and found they could produce 3 quarts to a gallon a day. They brought back a sample of about a gallon of salt, and we found it to be excellent—fine, strong, and white. This was a real treat for me and most of the group, since we hadn’t had any since the 20th of last month. I say most of the group because my friend Capt. Clark said it didn’t really matter to him whether he used it or not. As for me, I must admit I felt quite uncomfortable without it; I consider the lack of bread trivial as long as I have fatty meat, because when it comes to the kind of meat, I’m not very picky. I've gotten accustomed to the flesh of dog, horse, and wolf, which have all become familiar to me. I’ve learned to think that if the bond between the soul and body is strong enough, it doesn’t matter much what it's made from. Colter also returned this evening unsuccessful from his hunt, having been gone since the 1st. Capt. Clark decided to set out early tomorrow with two canoes and 12 men in search of the whale, or at the very least to buy some blubber from the Indians. For this, he prepared a small assortment of goods to take with him.
[Clark, January 5, 1806]
Sunday 5th of January 1806 At 5 p.m.Willard and Wiser returned, they had not been lost as we expected. they informd us that it was not untill the 5th day after leaveing the fort, that they Could find a Convenient place for makeing Salt; that they had at length established themselves on the Sea Coast about 15 miles S. W. from this, near the houses of Some Clat Sop & Kil a mox families; that the Indians were very friendly and had given them a considerable quantity of the blubber of the whale which perished on the Coast Some distance S. E. of them, it was white and not unlike the fat of Pork, tho the texture was more Spungey and Somewhat Coarser. we had part of it Cooked and found it very pallitable and tender, it resembles the beaver in flavour. those men also informed us that the Salt makers with their assistance had erected a Comfortable Camp, had killed an Elk and Several Deer and Secured a good Stock of Meat; they Commenced the makeing of Salt and found that they Could make from 3 quarts to a gallon a day; they brought with them a Specimen of the Salt, of about a gallon, we found it excellent white & fine, but not So Strong as the rock Salt or that made in Kentucky or the Western parts of the U, States—this Salt was a great treat to most of the party, haveing not had any Since the 20th ulto. as to my Self I care but little whether I have any with my meat or not; provided the meat fat, haveing from habit become entirely cearless about my diat, and I have learned to think that if the Cord be Sufficiently Strong which binds the Soul and boddy together, it does not So much matter about the materials which Compose it.
Sunday, January 5, 1806, at 5 p.m. Willard and Wiser returned; they had not been lost as we had feared. They informed us that it wasn’t until the fifth day after leaving the fort that they found a suitable place to make salt. They had finally set up camp on the coast about 15 miles southwest of here, near the homes of some Clatsop and Kalama families. The Indians were very friendly and had given them a considerable amount of whale blubber from a whale that had washed up southeast of them; it was white and similar to pork fat, although the texture was spongier and somewhat coarser. We cooked part of it and found it quite tasty and tender, resembling beaver in flavor. These men also told us that the salt makers, with their help, had built a comfortable camp, killed an elk and several deer, and secured a good supply of meat. They started making salt and found they could produce from three quarts to a gallon a day. They brought back a sample of the salt, about a gallon, which we found to be excellent—white and fine, though not as strong as rock salt or that made in Kentucky or the western parts of the U.S. This salt was a real treat for most of the group, as we hadn’t had any since the 20th of last month. As for me, I don’t care much whether I have any salt with my meat or not; as long as the meat is fatty, I have become completely indifferent to my diet out of habit, and I’ve come to believe that if the bond connecting the soul and body is strong enough, it doesn’t matter much what it’s made of.
Colter returned this evening unsecksessfull from the Chase, haveing been absent since the 1st inst.
Colter returned this evening unsuccessful from the Chase, having been absent since the 1st.
I determine to Set out early tomorrow with two canoes & 12 men in quest of the whale, or at all events to purchase from the indians a parcel of the blubber, for this purpose I made up a Small assortment of merchindize, and directed the men to hold themselves in readiness &c.
I plan to head out early tomorrow with two canoes and 12 men in search of the whale, or at the very least to buy some blubber from the Indians. For this, I put together a small collection of merchandise and told the men to be ready, etc.
[Lewis, January 6, 1806]
Monday January 6th 1806. Capt Clark set out after an early breakfast with the party in two canoes as had been concerted the last evening; Charbono and his Indian woman were also of the party; the Indian woman was very impotunate to be permited to go, and was therefore indulged; she observed that she had traveled a long way with us to see the great waters, and that now that monstrous fish was also to be seen, she thought it very hard she could not be permitted to see either (she had never yet been to the Ocean).
Monday, January 6th, 1806. Captain Clark set out after an early breakfast with the group in two canoes, as planned the previous evening. Charbono and his Indian woman were also part of the group; the Indian woman was very insistent on being allowed to go, and so she was indulged. She mentioned that she had traveled a long way with us to see the great waters, and now that the huge fish was also to be seen, she thought it was really unfair that she couldn't see either one (she had never been to the ocean before).
The Clatsops, Chinnooks, Killamucks &c. are very loquacious and inquisitive; they possess good memories and have repeated to us the names capasities of the vessels &c of many traders and others who have visited the mouth of this river; they are generally low in stature, proportionably small, reather lighter complected and much more illy formed than the Indians of the Missouri and those of our frontier; they are generally cheerfull but never gay. with us their conversation generally turns upon the subjects of trade, smoking, eating or their women; about the latter they speak without reserve in their presents, of their every part, and of the most formiliar connection. they do not hold the virtue of their women in high estimation, and will even prostitute their wives and daughters for a fishinghook or a stran of beads. in common with other savage nations they make their women perform every species of domestic drudgery. but in almost every species of this drudgery the men also participate. their women are also compelled to geather roots, and assist them in taking fish, which articles form much the greatest part of their subsistance; notwithstanding the survile manner in which they treat their women they pay much more rispect to their judgment and oppinions in many rispects than most indian nations; their women are permitted to speak freely before them, and sometimes appear to command with a tone of authority; they generally consult them in their traffic and act in conformity to their opinions. I think it may be established as a general maxim that those nations treat their old people and women with most differrence and rispect where they subsist principally on such articles that these can participate with the men in obtaining them; and that, that part of the community are treated with.least attention, when the act of procuring subsistence devolves intirely on the men in the vigor of life. It appears to me that nature has been much more deficient in her filial tie than in any other of the strong affections of the human heart, and therefore think, our old men equally with our women indebted to civilization for their ease and comfort. Among the Siouxs, Assinniboins and others on the Missouri who subsist by hunting it is a custom when a person of either sex becomes so old and infurm that they are unable to travel on foot from camp to camp as they rome in surch of subsistance, for the children or near relations of such person to leave them without compunction or remose; on those occasions they usually place within their reach a small peace of meat and a platter of water, telling the poor old superannuated wretch for his consolation, that he or she had lived long enough, that it was time they should dye and go to their relations who can afford to take care of them much better than they could. I am informed that this custom prevails even among the Minetares Arwerharmays and Recares when attended by their old people on their hunting excurtions; but in justice to these people I must observe that it appeared to me at their vilages, that they provided tolerably well for their aged persons, and several of their feasts appear to have principally for their object a contribution for their aged and infirm persons.
The Clatsops, Chinooks, Killamucks, and others are very talkative and curious. They have good memories and can recount the names and capacities of many traders and others who have visited the mouth of this river. They are generally short, comparatively smaller, lighter in complexion, and more poorly formed than the Indians of the Missouri and those on our frontier. They tend to be cheerful, but never overly so. Their conversations with us usually revolve around trade, smoking, eating, or their women; they discuss the latter openly, describing everything about them and their intimate relations without reservation. They don't hold their women's virtue in high regard and will even offer their wives and daughters for a fishing hook or a string of beads. Like other tribal societies, they make their women do all kinds of domestic work, but the men also participate in much of it. Their women are tasked with gathering roots and helping to catch fish, which make up a large part of their diet. Despite the submissive manner in which they treat their women, they show more respect for their opinions and judgment than many other Indian nations do. Their women can speak freely in front of them and sometimes seem to command with authority. They generally consult their women about trade and follow their suggestions. I believe it’s a general principle that nations that rely heavily on resources that both men and women can help gather tend to treat their elders and women with more respect. Conversely, communities that rely solely on men in their prime for subsistence typically pay less attention to those groups. It seems to me that nature has not favored familial bonds as much as it has other strong human emotions, so I think our elderly men, like our women, depend on civilization for their comfort and ease. Among the Sioux, Assinniboins, and others on the Missouri who live by hunting, it’s customary for children or close relatives to abandon a person of either sex when they become too old or infirm to travel from camp to camp in search of food. During such times, they usually leave a small piece of meat and a cup of water nearby and tell the elderly person that they’ve lived long enough and it's time for them to die and join their relatives, who can care for them better. I’ve been told this practice is common among the Minetares, Arwerharmays, and Recares when they go out hunting with their elders. However, I must acknowledge that it seems they provide for their aged members fairly well in their villages, and many of their feasts appear to be primarily organized to help support their older and infirm individuals.
This day I overhalled our merchandize and dryed it by the fire, found it all damp; we have not been able to keep anything dry for many days together since we arrived in this neighbourhood, the humidity of the air has been so excessively great. our merchandize is reduced to a mear handfull, and our comfort during our return the next year much depends on it, it is therefore almost unnecessary to add that we much regret the reduced state of this fund.
Today, I sorted through our supplies and dried them by the fire; they were all damp. We haven't been able to keep anything dry for many consecutive days since arriving in this area, as the humidity has been extremely high. Our supplies have shrunk to barely a handful, and our comfort during our return next year depends heavily on it, so it's almost unnecessary to say that we deeply regret the diminished state of this resource.
[Clark, January 6, 1806]
2 3 4 5 & all Day 6t of January 1805 all last night rained without intermition, & the morning. I sat out with 12 men in 2 Canoes to around thro the bay and up a Creek to an old landing at which place the Indians have a roade across thro Shashes West I landed made the Canoes fast and Set out up the Cree on a road passed thro 3 Stashes to a pond, then up & around th bend along a bad thick way, took an Indian path which took us to a Creek which runs into the Sand bay at which place we found a Canoe which took over 3 men at a time crossed and on the top of a rise Saw Elk prosued & Killed one and encamped at the forks of a Creek the West Eate th Elk all up. a fine Butifull moon Shining night unto _____, Swan Geese, Brand &c.
2 3 4 5 & all Day 6th of January 1805 it rained continuously all last night and into the morning. I went out with 12 men in 2 canoes to explore the bay and up a creek to an old landing where the Indians have a path across the marshes. I landed, secured the canoes, and set off up the creek on a path that took us through 3 marshes to a pond, then up and around the bend along a rough, thick trail. We took an Indian path that led us to a creek flowing into Sand Bay, where we found a canoe that could carry 3 men at a time. We crossed and, on top of a rise, saw elk, pursued and killed one, and made camp at the forks of a creek. We ate the elk and enjoyed a beautiful moonlit night with swans, geese, brants, etc.
[Clark, January 6, 1806]
Monday 6th of January 1806 The last evening Shabono and his Indian woman was very impatient to be permitted to go with me, and was therefore indulged; She observed that She had traveled a long way with us to See the great waters, and that now that monstrous fish was also to be Seen, She thought it verry hard that She Could not be permitted to See either (She had never yet been to the Ocian). after an early brackfast I Set out with two Canoes down the Ne tel R into Meriwether Bay with a view to proced on to the Clatsop town, and hire a guide to conduct me through the Creeks which I had every reason to beleeve Comunicated both with the Bay and a Small river near to which our men were making Salt. Soon after I arrived in the Bay the wind Sprung up from the N. W and blew So hard and raised the waves so high that we were obliged to put into a Small Creek Short of the Village. finding I could not proceed on to the Village in Safty, I deturmined to assend this Creek as high as the Canoes would go; which from its directions must be near the open lands in which I had been on the 10th ulto., and leave the Canoes and proceed on by land. at the distance of about 3 miles up this Creek I observed Some high open land, at which place a road Set out and had every appearance of a portage, here I landed drew up the Canoes and Set out by land, proceeded on through 3 deep Slashes to a pond about a mile in length and 200 yards wide, kept up this pond leaving it to the right, and passing the head to a Creek which we Could not Cross, this Creek is the one which I rafted on the 8th & 9 ultimo. and at no great distance from where I crossed in Cus ca lars Canoe on the 10th ulto. to which place I expected a find a canoe, we proceeded on and found a Small Canoe at the place I expected, calculated to Carry 3 men, we crossed and from the top of a ridge in the Prarie we Saw a large gange of Elk feeding about 2 miles below on our direction. I divided the party So as to be Certain of an elk, Several Shot were fired only one Elk fell, I had this Elk butchered and carried to a Creak in advance at which place I intended to encamp, two other Elk were badly Shot, but as it was nearly dark we Could not pursue them, we proceeded on to the forks of the Creek which we had just Crossed turning around to the S W. and meeting one of equal Size from the South, the two makeing a little river 70 yards wide which falls into the Ocian near the 3 Clat Sop houses which I visited on the 9th ulto. in the forks of this Creek we found Some drift pine which had been left on the Shore by the tide of which we made fires. the evening a butifull Clear moon Shiney night, and the 1st fair night which we have had for 2 months
Monday, January 6, 1806 Last night, Shabono and his Indigenous woman were very eager to go with me, so I let her join. She mentioned that she had traveled a long way with us to see the big waters, and now that a giant fish was to be seen, she thought it unfair that she couldn't see either (she had never been to the ocean before). After an early breakfast, I set out with two canoes down the Ne tel R into Meriwether Bay, planning to continue on to Clatsop town and hire a guide to navigate through the creeks, which I had every reason to believe connected to both the bay and a small river where our men were making salt. Soon after I arrived in the bay, the wind picked up from the northwest and blew so hard that it created high waves, forcing us to take shelter in a small creek short of the village. Realizing that I couldn't safely proceed to the village, I decided to ascend this creek as far as the canoes could go, which, based on its direction, should be near the open lands I had explored on the 10th of last month. I planned to leave the canoes and travel on foot. About three miles up the creek, I noticed some high open land, where a road began, showing signs of a portage. Here, I landed, pulled up the canoes, and set off on foot, moving through three deep slashes to a pond about a mile long and 200 yards wide. We followed the pond, keeping it on our right, and passed the head of a creek that we couldn't cross. This creek was the one I rafted on the 8th and 9th of last month, not far from where I crossed in Cus calar's canoe on the 10th. I hoped to find a canoe at that spot and did find a small canoe that could carry three men. We crossed over, and from the top of a ridge in the prairie, we saw a large herd of elk feeding about two miles down in our direction. I divided the group to ensure we would get an elk. Several shots were fired, but only one elk fell. I had this elk butchered and taken to a creek ahead where I planned to camp. Two other elk were hit badly, but since it was nearly dark, we couldn't pursue them. We continued on to the forks of the creek we had just crossed, turning southwest and meeting another creek of equal size from the south. The two merged to form a small river 70 yards wide that flows into the ocean near the three Clatsop houses I visited on the 9th of last month. At the forks of this creek, we found some drift pine that had been left on the shore by the tide, which we used to build fires. The evening was beautifully clear with a shining moon, marking the first fair night we've had in two months.
[Lewis, January 7, 1806]
Monday January 7th 1806. Last evening Drewyer visited his traps and caught a beaver and an otter; the beaver was large and fat we have therefore fared sumptuously today; this we consider a great prize for another reason, it being a full grown beaver was well supplyed with the materials for making bate with which to catch others. this bate when properly prepared will intice the beaver to visit it as far as he can smell it, and this I think may be safely stated at a mile, their sense of smelling being very accute. To prepare beaver bate, the castor or bark stone is taken as the base, this is gently pressed out of the bladderlike bag which contains it, into a phiol of 4 ounces with a wide mouth; if you have them you will put from four to six stone in a phiol of that capacity, to this you will add half a nutmeg, a douzen or 15 grains of cloves and thirty grains of cinimon finely pulverized, stir them well together and then add as much ardent sperits to the composition as will reduce it the consistency mustard prepared for the table; when thus prepared it resembles mustard precisely to all appearance. when you cannot procure a phiol a bottle made of horn or a tight earthen vessel will answer, in all cases it must be excluded from the air or it will soon loose it's virtue; it is fit for uce immediately it is prepared but becomes much stronger and better in about four or five days and will keep for months provided it be perfectly secluded from the air. when cloves are not to be had use double the quantity of Allspice, and when no spice can be obtained use the bark of the root of sausafras; when sperits cannot be had use oil stone of the beaver adding mearly a sufficient quantity to moisten the other materials, or reduce it to a stif past. it appears to me that the principal uce of the spices is only to give a variety to the scent of the bark stone and if so the mace vineller and other sweetsmelling spices might be employed with equal advantage. The male beaver has six stones, two which contain a substance much like finely pulvarized bark of a pale yellow colour and not unlike tanner's ooz in smell, these are called the bark stones or castors; two others, which like the bark stone resemble small bladders, contain a pure oil of a strong rank disagreeable smell, and not unlike train oil, these are called the oil stones; and 2 others of generation. the Barkstones are about two inches in length, the others somewhat smaller all are of a long oval form; and lye in a bunch together between the skin and the root of the tail, beneath or behind the fundament with which they are closely connected and seem to communicate. the pride of the female lyes on the inner side much like those of the hog. they have no further parts of generation that I can perceive and therefore beleive that like the birds they copulate with the extremity of the gut. The female have from two to four young ones at a birth and bring fourth once a year only, which usually happens about the latter end of may and begining of June. at this stage she is said to drive the male from the lodge, who would otherwise destroy the young.—dryed our lodge and had it put away under shelter; this is the first day during which we have had no rain since we arrived at this place. nothing extraordinary happened today.
Monday, January 7th, 1806. Last night, Drewyer checked his traps and caught a beaver and an otter; the beaver was large and fat, so we had a great meal today. We consider this a significant find for another reason: being a full-grown beaver, it was well stocked with the materials needed to make bait to catch more. This bait, when properly prepared, can attract other beavers from as far as a mile away, thanks to their highly acute sense of smell. To prepare beaver bait, take the castor or bark stone as the base, gently pressing it from the bladder-like bag that contains it into a wide-mouthed 4-ounce vial. If you have them, put four to six stones into that vial; then add half a nutmeg, twelve to fifteen grains of cloves, and thirty grains of cinnamon, all finely ground. Mix them well and then add enough strong spirits to create a consistency similar to mustard for the table. When prepared, it looks just like mustard. If you can’t find a vial, a bottle made of horn or a tight earthen vessel will work too; in all cases, it must be kept air-tight or it will quickly lose its potency. It is ready for use immediately after preparation but becomes much stronger and better after four or five days, and it can last for months as long as it’s completely sealed from the air. If cloves are unavailable, use double the amount of allspice. If no spices can be found, use the bark of sassafras root. If spirits are unavailable, just use a small amount of beaver oil to moisten the other materials or make it into a stiff paste. It seems to me that the main purpose of the spices is just to add variety to the scent of the bark stone, so other fragrant spices like mace, vanilla, and others could be used just as effectively. The male beaver has six stones: two that contain a substance similar to finely ground pale yellow bark that smells a bit like tanner’s ooze, called the bark stones or castors; two others, resembling small bladders, contain a pure oil with a strong, unpleasant smell similar to train oil, known as the oil stones; and two others for reproduction. The bark stones are about two inches long, while the others are a little smaller, all having an elongated oval shape. They lie together in a cluster between the skin and the base of the tail, closely connected to the area behind the anus. The pride of the female lies on the inner side, similar to that of a hog. I don’t see any further reproductive parts, so I believe that, like birds, they mate with the end of their intestines. The female usually has two to four young at a time and gives birth only once a year, typically around late May or early June. At this time, she is said to drive the male away from the lodge, as he might otherwise harm the young. We dried our lodge and stored it under cover; this is the first day we've had without rain since we arrived here. Nothing significant happened today.
[Clark, January 7, 1806]
Jany 7th Tuesday 1806 Set out at Day light, porceded up the Creek about 2 mile and crossed on a tree trunk the Salt makers have fallen across, then proceeded on to the Ocean 3/4 mile & proceded up 3 miles to the mouth of Colimex River about 80 or 100 yds wide verry rapid & Cuts its banks, here we found an old Village of 3 houses, one only inhabited by one familey, I gave the man a fish hook to put the party across, on the bank found a Skeet fish which had been lef by the tide proceded on 2 miles on the bank opposit a kind of bay the river Cross to the Sea Cost to 2 Inds Indians Lodges at which place I found our Salt makers near the foot of a mountain which form the Shore. Brackfast and hirired an Indian to pilot me to the Ca le mix nation where the whale is for which I gave a file, we proceded on the Stone under a high hill on our right bluff. Soft Stone Sees verry high, Several parts of this hill recently Sliped in, about 3/4 of a mile abov the Houses Saw a Canoe in which the Dead was buried at 21/2 miles assended a Steep mountain, as Steep at it is possible places for 1500 feet we hauled our Selves up by the assistence of the bushes if one had Given way we must have fallen a great distant the Steepest worst & highest mountain I ever assended I think it at least 1500 feet highr than the Sea imidiately under on the riht. we met 14 Indians loaded with blubber proceded on thro an unusual bad way falling timber bendig under logs &c. and encamped on a Creek which runs to my left find Day and night, the timber Spruc White Cedar & &.
January 7th, Tuesday, 1806 We set out at dawn, traveled up the creek for about 2 miles, and crossed on a tree trunk that the salt makers had fallen across. Then we continued on to the ocean, going 3/4 mile, and moved up 3 miles to the mouth of the Colimex River, which is about 80 or 100 yards wide and very fast-flowing, cutting into its banks. Here, we found an old village with 3 houses, only one of which was inhabited by a family. I gave the man a fish hook to help get the party across. On the bank, we found a skate fish that had been left by the tide. We proceeded on 2 miles along the bank, opposite a kind of bay where the river crosses to the seacoast, and came across 2 Indian lodges, at which point I found our salt makers near the foot of a mountain that forms the shore. We had breakfast and hired an Indian to guide me to the Calemix nation where the whale is, for which I gave a file. We continued on the stone under a high hill to our right, with a steep bluff made of soft stone. The hill is very high, and several parts of it have recently slipped in. About 3/4 of a mile above the houses, I saw a canoe in which the dead were buried. At 2.5 miles, we ascended a steep mountain, as steep as possible, rising 1,500 feet. We pulled ourselves up by the bushes; if one had given way, we would have fallen a great distance. It was the steepest and highest mountain I have ever climbed; I think it is at least 1,500 feet higher than the sea immediately below us on the right. We encountered 14 Indians loaded with blubber and continued through an unusually rough path with fallen timber and bending under logs. We camped on a creek that runs to my left day and night, where the timber consists of spruce and white cedar.
[Clark, January 7, 1806]
Tuesday 7th of January 1806 Some frost this morning. It may appear Somewhat incrediable, but So it is that the Elk which was killed last evening was eaten except about 8 pounds, which I directed to be taken along with the Skin, I proceded up the South fork of the Creek about 2 miles and crossed on a pine tree which had been fallen by the Saltmakers on their first going out, on this tree we crossed the deepest of the water and waded on the opposit Side for 30 yards, from thence to the ocian 3/4 of a mile through a Continuation of open ridgey Prarie, here the Coast is Sandy, we proceeded on the Sandy beech nearly South for 3 miles to the mouth of butifull river with bold and rapid Current of 85 yards wide and 3 feet deep in the Shallowest place, a Short distance up this river on the N E Side is the remains of an old village of Clatsops. I entered a house where I found a Man 2 Womn & 3 Children, they appeared retchedly pore & dirty, I hired the man to Set us across the River which I call after the Nation Clat Sop river for which I gave 2 fishing hooks—at this place the Creek over which I crossed on a tree passes within 100 yards of the Clat Sop river over which the nativs have a portage which affords them an easy Communication with the villages near point adams, and at the mouth of the Creek, on which we lay last night. in walking on the Sand after crossing the river I Saw a Singular Species of fish which I had never before Seen one of the men Call this fish a Skaite, it is properly a Thornback. I proceeded on about 2 miles to near the base of high Mountain where I found our Salt makers, and with them Sergt. Gass, Geo. Shannon was out in the woods assisting Jo Field and gibson to kill Some meat, the Salt makers had made a neet Close Camp, Convenient to wood Salt water and the fresh water of the Clat Sop river which at this place was within 100 paces of the Ocian they wer also Situated near 4 houses of Clatsops & Killamox, who they informed me had been verry kind and attentive to them. I hired a young Indian to pilot me to the whale for which Service I gave him a file in hand and promised Several other Small articles on my return, left Sergt. Gass and one man of my party Werner to make Salt & permited Bratten to accompany me, we proceeded on the round Slipery Stones under a high hill which projected into the ocian about 4 miles further than the direction of the Coast. after walking for 21/2 miles on the Stones my guide made a Sudin halt, pointed to the top of the mountain and uttered the word Pe Shack which means bad, and made Signs that we could not proceed any further on the rocks, but must pass over that mountain, I hesitated a moment & view this emence mountain the top of which was obscured in the clouds, and the assent appeard. to be almost perpindecular; as the Small Indian parth allong which they had brought emence loads but a fiew hours before, led up this mountain and appeared to assend in a Sideling direction, I thought more than probable that the assent might be torerably easy and therefore proceeded on, I soon found that the ____ become much worst as I assended, and at one place we were obliged to Support and draw our Selves up by the bushes & roots for near 100 feet, and after about 2 hours labour and fatigue we reached the top of this high mountain, from the top of which I looked down with estonishment to behold the hight which we had assended, which appeared to be 10 or 12 hundred feet up a mountain which appeared to be almost perpindicular, here we met 14 Indians men and women loaded with the oil & Blubber of the whale. In the face of this tremendeous precipic imediately below us, there is a Strater of white earth (which my guide informed me) the neighbouring indians use to paint themselves, and which appears to me to resemble the earth of which the French Porcelain is made; I am confident that this earth Contains argill, but whether it also Contains Silex or magnesia, or either of those earths in a proper perpotion I am unable to deturmine. we left the top of the precipice and proceeded on a bad road and encamped on a Small run passin g to the left. all much fatiagued
Tuesday, January 7, 1806 There was some frost this morning. It might seem incredible, but it's true that the elk we killed last evening was mostly eaten, except for about 8 pounds, which I instructed to be taken along with the skin. I went up the south fork of the creek for about 2 miles and crossed on a pine tree that had fallen by the salt makers on their first journey out. We crossed the deepest part of the water on this tree and waded about 30 yards on the opposite side. From there, it was three-quarters of a mile to the ocean through a stretch of open, hilly prairie. Here, the coast is sandy. We continued south along the sandy beach for 3 miles to the mouth of a beautiful river with a bold and rapid current, 85 yards wide and 3 feet deep at its shallowest point. A short distance up this river on the northeast side are the remains of an old Clatsop village. I entered a house where I found a man, 2 women, and 3 children; they looked very poor and dirty. I hired the man to take us across the river, which I named Clatsop River, for which I gave him 2 fishing hooks. At this location, the creek I crossed on a tree is only 100 yards away from Clatsop River, where the natives have a portage that allows them easy access to the villages near Point Adams and to the mouth of the creek where we spent the night. While walking on the sand after crossing the river, I saw a strange type of fish I had never seen before. One of the men called it a skaite, but it is actually a thornback. I went on about 2 miles to near the base of a tall mountain where I found our salt makers, along with Sergeant Gass. George Shannon was out in the woods helping Joe Field and Gibson hunt for meat. The salt makers had set up a neat, comfortable camp, conveniently located near wood, salt water, and the fresh water of Clatsop River, which was just 100 paces from the ocean. They were also near 4 houses belonging to the Clatsops and Killamox, who they told me had been very kind and helpful to them. I hired a young Indian to guide me to the whale, for which service I gave him a file and promised several other small items on my return. I left Sergeant Gass and one of my men, Werner, to make salt and allowed Bratten to accompany me. We moved on over the slippery stones under a high hill that jutted out into the ocean for about 4 miles, further than the coast's direction. After walking for 2.5 miles on the stones, my guide suddenly stopped, pointed to the top of the mountain, and said "Pe Shack," meaning bad, signaling that we couldn’t go any further on the rocks and had to get over that mountain. I hesitated for a moment, then looked at this immense mountain, the peak shrouded in clouds, its slope appearing almost vertical. The narrow Indian path they had used to carry massive loads just hours earlier led up this mountain and seemed to ascend at an angle. I thought it might be manageable, so I decided to proceed. However, I soon found that the condition got much worse as I climbed. At one point, we had to pull ourselves up by bushes and roots for nearly 100 feet, and after about 2 hours of hard work, we reached the top of the mountain. From the peak, I was astonished by the height we had climbed, which looked to be about 1,000 to 1,200 feet up a nearly vertical mountain. There, we encountered 14 Indians, men and women, carrying whale oil and blubber. On the face of this steep cliff right below us, there’s a layer of white earth that my guide said the local Indians use to paint themselves, and it looks a lot like the clay used to make French porcelain. I’m sure this earth contains clay, but I can’t tell if it also contains silica or magnesia, or if it has either of those substances in the right proportions. We left the top of the cliff and moved on down a rough path, camping at a small stream flowing to the left, all of us quite fatigued.
[Lewis, January 8, 1806]
Tuesday January 8th 1806. Our meat is begining to become scarse; sent Drewyer and Collins to hunt this morning. the guard duty being hard on the men who now remain in the fort I have for their relief since the departure of Capt. Clark made the Cooks mount guard. Sergt. Gass and Shannon have not yet returned, nor can I immajen what is the cause of their detention. In consequence of the clouds this evening I lost my P.M. observation for Equal Altitudes, and from the same cause have not been able to take a single observation since we have been at this place. nothing extraordinary happened today.
Tuesday, January 8th, 1806. Our meat is starting to become scarce; I sent Drewyer and Collins to hunt this morning. The guard duty has been tough on the men who are still at the fort, so to give them a break since Captain Clark left, I’ve put the cooks on guard duty. Sergeant Gass and Shannon haven’t come back yet, and I can’t imagine what’s causing their delay. Because of the clouds this evening, I missed my afternoon observation for Equal Altitudes, and I haven’t been able to take a single observation since we’ve been here. Nothing unusual happened today.
The Clatsops Chinnooks and others inhabiting the coast and country in this neighbourhood, are excessively fond of smoking tobacco. in the act of smoking they appear to swallow it as they dran it from the pipe, and for many draughts together you will not perceive the smoke which they take from the pipe; in the same manner also they inhale it in their lungs untill they become surcharged with this vapour when they puff it out to a great distance through their nostils and mouth; I have no doubt the smoke of the tobacco in this manner becomes much more intoxicating and that they do possess themselves of all it's virtues in their fullest extent; they freequently give us sounding proofs of it's creating a dismorallity of order in the abdomen, nor are those light matters thought indelicate in either sex, but all take the liberty of obeying the dictates of nature without reserve. these people do not appear to know the uce of sperituous liquors, they never having once asked us for it; I presume therefore that the traders who visit them have never indulged them with the uce of it; from what ever cause this may proceede, it is a very fortunate occurrence, as well for the natives themselves, as for the quiet and safety of thos whites who visit them.
The Clatsops, Chinooks, and others living along the coast and in this area really like smoking tobacco. When they smoke, it seems like they swallow it as they draw from the pipe, and for many draws, you won't see the smoke they take in. They also inhale it into their lungs until they're filled with the vapor, then they exhale it a long way through their nostrils and mouth. I have no doubt that this way of smoking makes the tobacco's effects much stronger, and they seem to experience all its benefits fully. They often provide clear evidence of it causing some discomfort in their stomachs, and these matters aren't considered improper for either gender; everyone freely follows their natural urges without hesitation. These people don’t seem to know the use of alcoholic drinks, as they’ve never once asked us for any. I assume that the traders who visit them have never given them any. Whatever the reason for this, it’s a very fortunate situation, both for the natives themselves and for the peace and safety of the white visitors.
[Clark, January 8, 1806]
Jany 8 Wedned Set out at Day a fine morning wind hard from S. E at 11/2 miles arived at a Open where I had a view of the Seas Coast for a long Distance rocks in every direction. Struck a branch and come down to the Sea at which place an old village between 2 Creeks of the Colemix Nation which inhabits this Coast, grave yard deposed of in Canoes in which the bodies are laid in boxes in the Canoe, Paddles &c thos poople must use thos Canoes in the higher Seas of which then ever I Saw on a Cost ruding Countrey Crossed 3 points rocks great Distanc in the Sea, hill Sides Sliping from emins ravins which appears to _____ proceeded on to the mouth of a Creek about 80 yards wide at which Place I saw 5 Lodges of Indian of the Ca la mix nation, boiling whale in a trough of about 20 gallons with hot Stones, and the oyle they put into a Canoe I proceded on a Short distance to the whales which was nothing more than the Sceleton, of 105 feet long, we took out a few bones and returned to the Cabins at the mouth of the Creek, and attempted to trade with thos people who I found Close and Capricious, would not trade the Smallest piece except they thought they got an advantage of the bargain, their disposition is averitious, & independant in trade, they offered to trade for Elk of which we had not I purchased some oile and about 120 w of Blubber after rendered, finding they would not trade I Deturmined to return home with what we have The Houses of these people appear temporary a ridge pole on 2 forks Supported a Certain number of Split boards of the red Cedar & pine, Set on the end the gable ends of the Same materials and Calculated for 2 families first, The Dress and appearenc of the nativs as also the language is procisely that of the Clopsots & Chinnooks, those people Save their oile in bladder Guts &c.
January 8, Wednesday. Set out at daybreak on a beautiful morning with a strong wind blowing from the southeast. After traveling 1.5 miles, I arrived at an open area where I could see the coastline for a long distance, with rocks in every direction. We took a branch and descended to the sea, where there was an old village situated between two creeks of the Colemix Nation, who inhabit this coast. The graveyard was cleared out using canoes, where the bodies are placed in boxes in the canoe along with paddles, etc. These people must use these canoes in rough seas, which I have never seen before along the coast. We crossed three rocky points that stretch far out into the sea, with hillsides sloping down to ravines that seem to ____. We continued on to the mouth of a creek about 80 yards wide, where I saw five lodges of the Indian community from the Colemix Nation. They were boiling whale meat in a trough of about 20 gallons using hot stones, and they used the oil in a canoe. I then moved on a short distance to where the whale was, which turned out to be nothing more than a skeleton 105 feet long. We took a few bones and returned to the cabins at the mouth of the creek to attempt trading with these people, who I found to be closed off and capricious. They wouldn't trade even the smallest piece unless they believed they had the upper hand in the deal. Their attitude is greedy and independent in trade. They offered to trade for elk, which we didn’t have. I purchased some oil and about 120 pounds of blubber after rendering it. Realizing they wouldn’t trade further, I decided to return home with what we had. The houses of these people seem temporary, with a ridge pole supported by two forks holding a certain number of split boards made of red cedar and pine. The gable ends are made from the same materials and are designed for two families. The dress and appearance of the natives, as well as their language, closely resemble that of the Clatsops and Chinooks. These people store their oil in bladders and guts, etc.
Their food is principally fish that is thrown on the Shores by the Seas & left by the tide, This Cost is rockey, the mountains high & rugged, They inform me that their nation lives in 5 villages to the S E of this place at the mouths of Creek in which they catch Samn. in the Season, I got of those people a few roots Some Sturgeon whale-____ &. They Call a whale E cu-la a Creek Shu man, they have Some fiew Sea ortter for which they ask Such prices I could not purchase any of them
Their food mainly consists of fish that the sea washes up on the shore and leaves behind after the tide goes out. The area is rocky, and the mountains are high and rugged. They told me that their people live in five villages southeast of this spot, at the mouths of a creek where they catch salmon in the right season. I managed to get a few roots and some sturgeon whale from them. They call a whale "E cu-la” and a creek "Shu man." They also have a few sea otters, but they asked for prices that were too high for me to buy any.
Th party much fatigued in crossing 1 mountain & 4 high Points Steep & Slipery, also Stony Beach Slippery and tiresom The high tide obliged me to delay untill late before the tide put out, I Shot a raven & a gul with my Small riffle which Suppised these people a little They are fond of blue & white large beed only, files & fish Hooks which are large- after Diner we Set out Crossed the Creek in a Small Canoe The tide out and Encamped on the opposit Side, I was asked for ferrage and paid a pin, one hut on the Side in which I Camped & Village a Short distance above which I did not See last night, all the men came over & Smoked with me, about bed time I herd a hollowing on the opposit Side of the river which allarnied all the Indian men about me, they run across the Creek, I Suspected perhaps Some of my party was over after the Squars, by exemening found that McNeal was not in Camp, my guide who Staid with me told me Some body throat was Cut. I emediately Sent Serjt Pryor & 2 men across for McNeal, they Soon returned haveing met the person I was anxious to find out the Cause of the allarm, McNeal Said that a man envited him to go across and get Some fish, locked arms of which he Contd to hold he took him into a lodge and the woman gave him a Small piec the man then invited him to another, the woman of the lodge puled his blanket, & Sent out a Squar to hollow across, to inform of Something which aid. McNeal I Sent over Sergt. Pryor to Know the Cause of the allarm which he was informed that a Plot was laid to kill McNeal for his Blanket & Clothes by this Indian who was from another Villg at Some distance, and that She had attempted to Stop McNeal & findeing She Could not that She then allarmed the men, Several of the mans Band was with me who imedeately Cleared out, 2 men Came over & Slept at my feet. I kept a guard & Sentinel all night a fair night wind blew from S. E. during the evening I acquired all the information possiable respecting the Coast to the S. E. got the name of many nations & the Nos. of their houses, a map of the Coast in their way. I am very pore & weak for want of Sufficient food and fear much that I shall require more assistance to get back than I had to get to this place. a deturmined purcistance will as it has done carry me through
The party was very tired after crossing one mountain and four steep, slippery high points, as well as a stony beach that was also slippery and exhausting. The high tide forced me to wait until late before I could go out; I shot a raven and a gull with my small rifle, which surprised these people a little. They are only interested in large blue and white beads, files, and large fish hooks. After dinner, we set out, crossed the creek in a small canoe with the tide out, and camped on the opposite side. I was asked for forage and paid with a pin; there was one hut on the side where I camped and a village a short distance above that I didn't see the night before. All the men came over and smoked with me. Around bedtime, I heard a hollering from the opposite side of the river, which alarmed all the Indian men around me, and they ran across the creek. I suspected that some of my party had gone after the women, and after examining, I found that McNeal was not in camp. My guide who stayed with me mentioned that somebody's throat was cut. I immediately sent Sergeant Pryor and two men across to look for McNeal; they soon returned having met him. I was anxious to find out the cause of the alarm. McNeal said that a man had invited him to cross to get some fish, locked arms with him, and took him into a lodge where a woman gave him a small piece of it. The man then invited him to another lodge, and a woman from there pulled his blanket and sent out a woman to holler across to inform someone about something. I sent Sergeant Pryor over to find out the cause of the alarm, and he was told that a plot was laid to kill McNeal for his blanket and clothes by an Indian from another village some distance away, and that she had attempted to stop McNeal. When she realized she couldn't, she alarmed the men. Several of the men's band were with me, who immediately cleared out. Two men came over and slept at my feet. I kept a guard and sentinel all night; it was a calm night with a fair wind blowing from the southeast. During the evening, I gathered all the information possible about the coast to the southeast, learned the names of many nations and the numbers of their houses, and got a map of the coast in their language. I am very poor and weak due to a lack of food and fear that I will need more assistance to get back than I did to reach this place. A determined persistence will, as it has done, carry me through.
[Clark, January 8, 1806]
Wednesday 8th January 1805 The last night proved fair and Cold wind hard from the S. E. we Set out early and proceeded to the top of the mountain next to the which is much the highest part and that part faceing the Sea is open, from this point I beheld the grandest and most pleasing prospects which my eyes ever surveyed, in my frount a boundless Ocean; to the N. and N. E. the coast as as far as my sight Could be extended, the Seas rageing with emence wave and brakeing with great force from the rocks of Cape Disapointment as far as I could See to the N. W. The Clatsops Chinnooks and other villagers on each Side of the Columbia river and in the Praries below me, the meanderings of 3 handsom Streams heading in Small lakes at the foot the high Country; The Columbia River for a Some distance up, with its Bays and Small rivers and on the other Side I have a view of the Coast for an emence distance to the S. E. by S. the nitches and points of high land which forms this Corse for a long ways aded to the inoumerable rocks of emence Sise out at a great distance from the Shore and against which the Seas brak with great force gives this Coast a most romantic appearance. from this point of View my guide pointed to a village at the mouth of a Small river near which place he Said the whale was, he also pointed to 4 other places where the princpal Villages of the Kil la mox were Situated, I could plainly See the houses of 2 of those Villeges & the Smoke of a 3rd which was two far of for me to disern with my naked eye—after taking the Courses and computed the Distances in my own mind, I proceeded on down a Steep decent to a Single house the remains of an old Kil a mox Town in a nitch imediately on the Sea Coast, at which place great no. of eregular rocks are out and the waves comes in with great force. Near this old Town I observed large Canoes of the neetest kind on the ground Some of which appeared nearly decayed others quit Sound, I examoned those Canoes and found they were the repository of the dead—This Custom of Secureing the Dead differs a little from the Chinnooks. the Kil a mox Secure the dead bodies in an oblong box of Plank, which is placed in an open Canoe resting on the ground, in which is put a paddle and Sundery other articles the property of the disceased. The Coast in the neighbourhood of this old village is slipping from the Sides of the high hills, in emence masses; fifty or a hundred acres at a time give way and a great proportion of an instant precipitated into the Ocean. those hills and mountains are principally composed of a yellow Clay; their Slipping off or Spliting assunder at this time is no doubt Caused by the incessant rains which has fallen within the last two months. the mountans Covered with a verry heavy Croth of pine & furr, also the white Cedar or arbor vita and a Small proportion of the black alder, this alder grows to the hight of Sixty or Seventy feet and from 2 to 3 feet in diamiter. Some Species of pine on the top of the Point of View rise to the emmence hight of 210 feet and from 8 to 12 feet in diameter, and are perfectly Sound and Solid. Wind hard from the S. E and See looked ____ in the after part of the Day breaking with great force against the Scattering rocks at Some distance from Shore, and the ruged rockey points under which we wer obleged to pass and if we had unfortunately made one false Stet we Should eneviateably have fallen into the Sea and dashed against the rocks in an instant, fortunately we passed over 3 of those dismal points and arived on a butifull Sand Shore on which we Continued for 2 miles, Crossed a Creek 80 yards near 5 Cabins, and proceeded to the place the whale had perished, found only the Skelleton of this monster on the Sand between 2 of the villages of the Kil a mox nation; the Whale was already pillaged of every valuable part by the Kil a mox Inds. in the vecinity of whose village's it lay on the Strand where the waves and tide had driven up & left it. this Skeleton measured 105 feet. I returned to the village of 5 Cabins on the Creek which I shall call E co-la or whale Creek, found the nativs busily engaged boiling the blubber, which they performed in a large Squar wooden trought by means of hot Stones; the oil when extracted was Secured in bladders and the Guts of the whale; the blubber from which the oil was only partially extracted by this process, was laid by in their Cabins in large flickes for use; those flickes they usially expose to the fire on a wooden Spit untill it is prutty well wormed through and then eate it either alone or with roots of the rush, Shaw na tdk we or diped in the oil. The Kil a mox although they possessed large quantities of this blubber and oil were so prenurious that they disposed of it with great reluctiance and in Small quantities only; insomuch that my utmost exertion aided by the party with the Small Stock of merchindize I had taken with me were not able to precure more blubber than about 300 wt. and a fiew gallons of oil; Small as this Stock is I prise it highly; and thank providence for directing the whale to us; and think him much more kind to us than he was to jonah, having Sent this monster to be Swallowed by us in Sted of Swallowing of us as jonah's did. I recrossed E co la Creek and Encamped on the bank at which place we observed an ebundance of fine wood the Indian men followed me for the purpose of Smokeing. I enquired of those people as well as I could by Signs the Situation, mode of liveing & Strength of their nation They informed me that the bulk of their nation lived in 3 large villages Still further along the Sea coast to the S, S, W. at the enterence Of 3 Creek which fell into a bay, and that other houses were Scattered about on the Coast, Bay and on a Small river which fell into the Bay in which they Cought Salmon, and from this Creek (which I call Kil a mox River) they crossed over to the Wappato I. on the Shock-ah-lil com (which is the Indian name for the Columbia river) and purchased Wappato &c. that the nation was once verry large and that they had a great maney houses, In Salmon Season they Cought great numbers of that fish in the Small Creeks, when the Salmon was Scerce they found Sturgion and a variety of other fish thrown up by the waves and left by the tide which was verry fine, Elk was plenty in the mountains, but they Could not Kill maney of them with their arrows. The Kil d mox in their habits Customs manners dress & language differ but little from the Clatsops, Chinnooks and others in this neighbourhood are of the Same form of those of the Clatsops with a Dore at each end & two fire places i, e the house is double as long as wide and divided into 2 equal parts with a post in the middle Supporting the ridge pole, and in the middle of each of those divisions they make their fires, dotes Small & houses Sunk 5 feet
**Wednesday, January 8, 1805** Last night was clear and cold, with a strong wind from the southeast. We set out early and made our way to the top of the mountain, the highest part, which faces the sea. From this point, I witnessed the most magnificent and beautiful views I've ever seen: a vast ocean in front of me; to the north and northeast, the coastline extended as far as my eyes could see, with the sea raging, massive waves crashing against the rocks of Cape Disappointment as far northwest as I could see. The Clatsops, Chinooks, and other villages lined both sides of the Columbia River and in the prairies below me, with the winding paths of three beautiful streams that originate in small lakes at the foot of the high country. I could see the Columbia River for quite a distance upstream, with its bays and small rivers; on the other side, I had a view of the coastline stretching an immense distance to the southeast by south, where the ridges and points of high land formed this course for miles, dotted with countless massive rocks far out from the shore, against which the sea crashed with great force, giving this coastline a striking appearance. From this vantage point, my guide pointed out a village at the mouth of a small river nearby, where he said a whale was, and he also indicated four other locations where the main villages of the Kilamox were situated. I could clearly see the houses of two of those villages and the smoke from a third that was too far away for me to discern with my naked eye. After taking note of the directions and estimating the distances in my mind, I proceeded down a steep descent to a single house, the remains of an old Kilamox town in a nook right on the coast, where many irregular rocks were exposed, and the waves crashed in with great force. Near this old town, I spotted large canoes of the finest design on the ground; some appeared almost decayed, while others were quite intact. I examined these canoes and found they were used for storing the dead. This custom of preserving the deceased is somewhat different from that of the Chinooks. The Kilamox secure the bodies in an oblong box made of planks, placed in an open canoe resting on the ground. Within the canoe is a paddle and several other items that belonged to the deceased. The coastline around this old village is eroding, with enormous masses breaking away from the sides of the high hills; fifty or a hundred acres can give way at once, with a substantial portion instantly crashing into the ocean. These hills and mountains are mostly made up of yellow clay; their slipping or splitting apart now is undoubtedly caused by the incessant rains that have fallen over the past two months. The mountains are covered with a heavy growth of pine and fir, along with white cedar or arborvitae and a small amount of black alder, which can grow to heights of sixty or seventy feet and two to three feet in diameter. Some species of pine on the point of view reach heights of 210 feet and from eight to twelve feet in diameter, and are perfectly sound and solid. The wind was strong from the southeast, and the sea looked turbulent in the afternoon, breaking forcefully against the scattered rocks some distance from the shore, with rugged rocky points we had to navigate, where any wrong step would have resulted in an instant plunge into the sea against the rocks. Fortunately, we managed to pass over three of those treacherous points and reached a beautiful sandy shore, where we continued for two miles, crossed a creek about 80 yards from five cabins, and proceeded to the spot where the whale had perished, only to find the skeleton of this monster on the sand between two of the villages of the Kilamox nation. The whale had already been stripped of every valuable part by the Kilamox Indians, among whose villages it lay on the shore, washed up by the waves and tides. This skeleton measured 105 feet. I returned to the village of five cabins by the creek, which I shall call Ecolá or Whale Creek, and found the natives busily engaged in boiling the blubber in a large square wooden trough using hot stones; the oil they extracted was stored in bladders and the guts of the whale. The blubber, from which only some oil was extracted, was set aside in their cabins in large chunks for future use; these chunks are typically placed over the fire on a wooden spit until warmed through, then eaten either on their own or with roots of rush, called Shaw na tdk we, or dipped in the oil. Although the Kilamox had large quantities of this blubber and oil, they were so stingy that they sold it only in small amounts, to the extent that my best efforts, aided by my party with the small stock of merchandise I had brought with me, managed to acquire just about 300 weight of blubber and a few gallons of oil. Though this stock is small, I value it highly and thank Providence for directing the whale our way, feeling he was much kinder to us than he was to Jonah, sending this monster to be consumed by us instead of swallowing us, as Jonah was. I recrossed Ecolá Creek and camped on the bank, where we observed an abundance of fine wood; the Indian men followed me to smoke. I asked these people, as best I could through gestures, about the location, way of life, and strength of their nation. They told me that the majority of their nation lived in three large villages further along the coastline to the south-southwest, at the mouths of three creeks that flowed into a bay, with other houses scattered along the coast and bays, and a small river that also fed into the bay, where they caught salmon. From this creek (which I call Kilamox River), they crossed over to Wappato Island on the Shock-ah-lil Com (the Indian name for the Columbia River) to purchase Wappato and other goods. They mentioned that the nation was once very large and had many houses. During the salmon season, they caught great numbers of fish in the small creeks; when salmon were scarce, they found sturgeon and various other fish washed up by the waves and left by the tide, which were very good. Elk were plentiful in the mountains, but they could not kill many of them with their arrows. The Kilamox, in their habits, customs, manners, dress, and language, differ little from the Clatsops and Chinooks, and their houses are structured similarly to those of the Clatsops, featuring a door at each end and two fireplaces. The house is twice as long as it is wide and divided into two equal parts, with a post in the center supporting the ridge pole, and in the middle of each of these sections, they build their fires, along with smaller houses sunk five feet.
[Lewis, January 9, 1806]
Friday January 9th 1806. Our men are now very much engaged in dressing Elk and Deer skins for mockersons and cloathing. the deer are extreemly scarce in this neighbourhood, some are to be found near the praries and open grounds along the coast. this evening we heard seven guns in quick succession after each other, they appeared to be on the Creek to the South of us and several miles distant; I expect that the hunters Drewyer and Collins have fallen in with a gang of Elk. some marrow bones and a little fresh meat would be exceptable; I have been living for two days past on poor dryed Elk, or jurk as the hunters term it.
Friday, January 9, 1806. Our men are currently busy preparing elk and deer hides for moccasins and clothing. Deer are extremely scarce in this area; some can be found near the prairies and open fields along the coast. This evening, we heard seven gunshots in quick succession; they seemed to come from the creek to the south of us, several miles away. I expect that the hunters Drewyer and Collins have come across a herd of elk. Some marrow bones and a bit of fresh meat would be appreciated; I’ve been living for the past two days on tough dried elk, or jerky as the hunters call it.
The Clatsops Chinnooks &c. bury their dead in their canoes. for this purpose four pieces of split timber are set erect on end, and sunk a few feet in the grown, each brace having their flat sides opposite to each other and sufficiently far assunder to admit the width of the canoes in which the dead are to be deposited; through each of these perpendicular posts, at the hight of six feet a mortice is cut, through which two bars of wood are incerted; on these cross bars a small canoe is placed in which the body is laid after being carefully roled in a robe of some dressed skins; a paddle is also deposited with them; a larger canoe is now reversed, overlaying and imbracing the small one, and resting with it's gunwals on the cross bars; one or more large mats of rushes or flags are then roled around the canoes and the whole securely lashed with a long cord, usually made of the bark of the Arbor vita or white cedar. on the cross bars which support the canoes is frequently hung or laid various articles of cloathing culinary eutensels &c. I cannot understand them sufficiently to make any enquiries relitive to their religeous opinions, but presume from their depositing various articles with their dead, that they believe in a state of future existence.
The Clatsops, Chinnooks, etc., bury their dead in their canoes. For this, they set up four pieces of split timber upright, sunk a few feet into the ground, with their flat sides facing each other. They are spaced apart enough to fit the width of the canoes where the dead will be placed. A mortise is cut in each of these vertical posts at a height of six feet, through which two wooden bars are inserted. A small canoe is then placed on these crossbars, in which the body is laid after being carefully wrapped in a robe made of dressed skins. A paddle is also included with them. A larger canoe is then turned upside down, covering and encasing the small one, resting on the crossbars. One or more large mats made of rushes or flags are rolled around the canoes, and everything is securely tied with a long cord, usually made from the bark of the Arborvitae or white cedar. Various items such as clothing and cooking utensils are often hung or laid on the crossbars that support the canoes. I don’t understand them well enough to ask about their religious beliefs, but I assume that by including various items with their dead, they believe in some form of afterlife.
The persons who usually visit the entrance of this river for the purpose of traffic or hunting I believe are either English or Americans; the Indians inform us that they speak the same language with ourselves, and give us proofs of their varacity by repeating many words of English, as musquit, powder, shot, nife, file, damned rascal, sun of a bitch &c. whether these traders are from Nootka sound, from some other late establishment on this coast, or immediately from the U States or Great Brittain, I am at a loss to determine, nor can the Indians inform us. the Indians whom I have asked in what direction the traders go when they depart from hence, or arrive here, always point to the S. W. from which it is presumeable that Nootka cannot be their destination; and as from Indian information a majority of these traders annually visit them about the beginning of April and remain with them six or seven Months, they cannot come immediately from Great Britain or the U States, the distance being too great for them to go and return in the ballance of the year. from this circumstance I am sometimes induced to believe that there is some other establishment on the coast of America south West of this place of which little is but yet known to the world, or it may be perhaps on some Island in the pacific ocean between the Continents of Asia and America to the South West of us. This traffic on the part of the whites consists in vending, guns, (principally old british or American musquits) powder, balls and Shot, Copper and brass kettles, brass teakettles and coffee pots, blankets from two to three point, scarlet and blue Cloth (coarse), plates and strips of sheet copper and brass, large brass wire, knives, beads and tobacco with fishinghooks buttons and some other small articles; also a considerable quantity of Sailor's cloaths, as hats coats, trowsers and shirts. for these they receive in return from the natives, dressed and undressed Elkskins, skins of the sea Otter, common Otter, beaver, common fox, spuck, and tiger cat; also dryed and pounded sammon in baskets, and a kind of buisquit, which the natives make of roots called by them shappelell. The natives are extravegantly fond of the most common cheap blue and white beads, of moderate size, or such that from 50 to 70 will weigh one penneyweight. the blue is usually pefered to the white; these beads constitute the principal circulating medium with all the indian tribes on this river; for these beads they will dispose any article they possess.—the beads are strung on strans of a fathom in length and in that manner sold by the bredth or yard.-
The people who generally come to the entrance of this river for trade or hunting are likely either English or American. The Indians tell us that they speak the same language as us and prove their honesty by repeating many English words, like mosquito, powder, shot, knife, file, damn rascal, son of a bitch, etc. I’m unsure whether these traders come from Nootka Sound, some other recent settlement along this coast, or directly from the United States or Great Britain; the Indians can’t tell us. When I ask the Indians which direction the traders go when they leave or arrive here, they always point to the southwest, so it seems unlikely that Nootka is their destination. According to the Indians, most of these traders visit them around early April and stay for six or seven months, which makes it impossible for them to come straight from Great Britain or the United States, given the long distance involved for such a round trip within the year. Because of this, I sometimes suspect that there’s some other settlement on the southwestern coast of America that is not widely known, or perhaps on some island in the Pacific Ocean between Asia and America, to the southwest of us. The trade involving the whites includes selling guns (mostly old British or American muskets), powder, balls and shot, copper and brass kettles, brass teapots and coffee pots, blankets of two to three points, scarlet and blue coarse cloth, plates and strips of sheet copper and brass, large brass wire, knives, beads, and tobacco, along with fishing hooks, buttons, and a few other small items. They also acquire a substantial amount of sailors' clothing, like hats, coats, trousers, and shirts. In exchange, they receive dressed and undressed elk skins, sea otter skins, common otter, beaver, common fox, skunk, and tiger cat skins; also dried and pounded salmon in baskets, and a type of biscuit made from roots, which the natives call shappelell. The natives have a strong preference for the most common, inexpensive blue and white beads of moderate size, those weighing between 50 to 70 beads per pennyweight. The blue ones are usually preferred over the white; these beads serve as the main currency for all the Indian tribes along this river; for these beads, they will trade away any item they own. The beads are strung in lengths of a fathom and sold by the breadth or yard.
[Clark, January 9, 1806]
January 9th Thursday 1806 a fine morning wind N E Set out at day lighte every man Some meat of the whale and a little oile proceded on the track we Came out to a house at a branch where we halted 1/2 an hour to rest this house is at at place an old village has formerly been, on the Coast at the Comencment ____ 27 foot wide 35 feet long Sunk in the ground 5 feet 2 Dotes & 2 fire places dotes 29 Ins. high & 141/4 wide handsom Steps to decend down a post in the middle Coverede with boards Split thin an 2 feet wide, old grave in Canoes of 3 feet 8 Inches wide & 5 feet long neetly made high at bow proceded on to the top of the hill Passing 3 bad points rockey &. from the Point Clarks Point of view Cape Disapt. bears S. 12° E passing a Great point at 15 miles one at 40 miles rocks out to the 1st large point from the Creek 4 points, between the 1st large Point and 2d a point of many large rocks, Day Clouded up, I can See a point Bearing N 5° East along way just in Sight. from Clarks View Point to Cape Disapointment is N 20° W. To point adams &the open Slope point is North and a Sharp point, met a party of Chinnooks going to get whale blubber to eate & oile each of which they eate together, we also over took Several parties of the Clot Sops loaded with imence laods of the blubber and oile maney of those loads I with difficuelty raised, Estonishing what custom will do. at 2 oClock we arrived at the Camp of our Salt makers verry much fatigued, more So than I ever was before, the Indians all proceeded on, I concluded to Stay all night, as the party was much fatigued, and Send out 2 men which I had left here to hunt Ducks up the little river, Jo. Fields had killed an Elk and brought in a quarter on which we Dined he also had killed & brought in a Deer. The Indians with the oile & bluber tole me they had to purchase of the Ca-le nixx and would Come to the fort & Sell to us in 3 Days time, this I incouraged, as I expect to purchase at the fort as cheep as at the village at which I was, day proved fine. rained the greater part of the night I went into an Indian Lodge they were pore Durty and the house full of flees. he offered me roots which they geather on the Sea Cost a kind of rush, of which they offered me to eate,
January 9th, Thursday 1806, a nice morning with a northeast wind. We set out at daybreak, each man carrying some meat from the whale and a little oil. We came across a house by a branch where we stopped for half an hour to rest. This house is located where an old village used to be, on the coast, measuring 27 feet wide and 35 feet long, sunk 5 feet into the ground. It has 2 doorways and 2 fireplaces, with the doorways 29 inches high and 14¼ inches wide. There were nice steps leading down, with a post in the middle covered with boards split thin and 2 feet wide. An old grave in canoes measured 3 feet 8 inches wide and 5 feet long, neatly made and high at the bow. We proceeded up the hill, passing 3 rocky points. From Clark's viewpoint, Cape Disappointment is to the southeast at 12° east. We passed a great point 15 miles away and another at 40 miles with rocks extending out to the first large point from the creek, which has 4 points. Between the first and second large points, there are many large rocks. The day became cloudy, but I could see a point bearing north at 5° east, just visible. From Clark’s viewpoint to Cape Disappointment is north at 20° west. Point Adams and the open slope point are to the north, with a sharp point. We met a group of Chinooks heading to collect whale blubber to eat and oil, which they consume together. We also passed several groups of Clatsops loaded with huge amounts of blubber and oil, many of which I struggled to lift. It’s amazing what tradition can influence. At 2 o’clock, we arrived at the camp of our salt makers, very fatigued—more so than I’ve ever been before. The Indians all continued on, so I decided to stay the night since the group was very tired, and sent out 2 men that I had left behind to hunt ducks up the little river. Jo. Fields had killed an elk and brought back a quarter, which we dined on; he also brought in a deer. The Indians with the oil and blubber told me they had to buy it from the Cale-nixx and would come to the fort to sell it to us in 3 days. I encouraged this, as I expect to buy at the fort as cheaply as I did at the village where I was. The day was nice, but it rained most of the night. I went into an Indian lodge that was poor, dirty, and full of fleas. They offered me roots, a kind of rush that they gather on the coast, which they suggested I eat.
[Clark, January 9, 1806]
Thursday 9th of January 1806 a fine morning wind from the N. E. last night about 10 oClock while Smokeing with the nativ's I was alarmed by a loud Srile voice from the Cabins on the opposite Side, the Indians all run immediately across to the village, my guide who Continued with me made Signs that Some one's throat was Cut, by enquiry I found that one man McNeal was absent, I imediately Sent off Sergt. N. Pryor & 4 men in quest of McNeal who they met comeing across the Creak in great hast, and informed me that the people were alarmed on the opposit Side at Something but what he could not tell, a man had verry friendly envited him to go and eate in his lodge, that the Indian had locked armes with him and went to a lodge in which a woman gave him Some blubber, that the man envited him to another lodge to get Something better, and the woman held him by the blanket which he had around him another ran out and hollow'd and his pretended friend disapeared—I emediately ordered every man to hold themselves in a State of rediness and Sent Sergt. Pryor & 4 men to know the cause of the alarm which was found to be a premeditated plan of the pretended friend of McNeal to assanate for his Blanket and what fiew articles he had about him, which was found out by a Chin nook woman who allarmed the men of the village who were with me in time to prevent the horred act. this man was of another band at Some distance and ran off as Soon as he was discovered. we have now to look back and Shudder at the dreadfull road on which we have to return of 45 miles S E of Point adams & 35 miles from Fort Clatsop. I had the blubber & oil divided among the party and Set out about Sunrise and returned by the Same rout we had went out, met Several parties of men & womin of the Chinnook and Clatsops nations, on their way to trade with the Kil a mox for blubber and oil; on the Steep decent of the Mountain I overtook five men and Six womin with emence loads of the Oil and blubber of the Whale, those Indians had passed by Some rout by which we missed them as we went out yesterday; one of the women in the act of getting down a Steep part of the mountain her load by Some means had Sliped off her back, and She was holding the load by a Strap which was fastened to the mat bag in which it was in, in one hand and holding a bush by the other, as I was in front of my party, I endeavored to relieve this woman by takeing her load untill She Could get to a better place a little below, & to my estonishment found the load as much as I Could lift and must exceed 100 wt. the husband of this woman who was below Soon came to her releif, those people proceeded on with us to the Salt works, at which place we arrived late in the evening, found them without meat, and 3 of the Party J. Field Gibson & Shannon out hunting. as I was excessively fatigued and my party appeared verry much so, I deturmined to Stay untill the morning and rest our Selves a little. The Clatsops proceeded on with their lodes—The Clatsops, Chin nooks Kil a mox &c. are verry loquacious and inquisitive; they possess good memories and have repeeted to us the names capasities of the Vessels &c of maney traders and others who have visited the mouth of this river; they are generally low in Statue, proportionably Small, reather lighter complected and much more illy formed than the Indians of the Missouri and those of our fronteers; they are generally Chearfull but never gay. with us their Conversation generally turns upon the subject of trade, Smokeing, eating or their womin; about the latter, they Speak without reserve in their presence, of their every part, and of the most farmiliar Connection. they do not hold the virtue of their womin in high estimation, and will even prostitute their wives and Daughters for a fishing hook or a Stran of beeds. in Common with other Savage nations they make their womin perform every Species of domestic drugery; but in almost every Species of this drugery the men also participate. their woman are compelled to gather roots, and assist them in takeing fish; which articles form much the greater part of their Subsistance; notwithstanding the Survile manner in which they treat their womin they pay much more respect to their judgement and oppinion in maney respects than most indian nations; their womin are permited to Speak freely before them, and Sometimes appear to command with a tone of authority; they generally consult them in their traffic and act conformably to their opinions.
Thursday, January 9, 1806, was a beautiful morning with a nice wind coming from the northeast. Last night around 10 o'clock, while I was smoking with the locals, I was startled by a loud, shrill voice from the cabins on the opposite side. The natives all ran immediately to the village. My guide, who stayed with me, signaled that someone had their throat cut. Upon asking, I found that a man named McNeal was missing. I quickly sent Sergeant N. Pryor and four men to search for McNeal, who they met coming across the creek in a hurry. He informed me that the people were alarmed on the other side about something, but he couldn’t specify what it was. A man had very kindly invited him to eat in his lodge, and they had linked arms as they went to a lodge where a woman gave him some blubber. The man invited him to another lodge for something better, but the woman held onto the blanket he was wearing and then another person shouted, causing his supposed friend to disappear. I immediately ordered every man to be ready and sent Sergeant Pryor and four men to find out the reason for the alarm, which turned out to be a premeditated plan by McNeal's so-called friend to attack him for his blanket and any other few items he had. This was revealed by a Chinook woman who alerted the men in the village with me just in time to prevent the horrific act. The man was from another band a distance away and ran off as soon as he was discovered. We now have to look back and shudder at the terrible journey we have to take back, 45 miles southeast of Point Adams, and 35 miles from Fort Clatsop. I had the blubber and oil divided among the group and set out around sunrise, returning by the same way we had come. We met several groups of men and women from the Chinook and Clatsop nations on their way to trade with the Kilamox for blubber and oil. On the steep descent of the mountain, I caught up with five men and six women carrying enormous loads of whale oil and blubber. These Indians must have taken a different route, as we missed them on our way out yesterday. One of the women, while trying to navigate a steep part of the mountain, had her load slip off her back, so she was holding on to the load with a strap attached to the mat bag it was in with one hand, while holding onto a bush with the other. I was in front of my party, and I tried to help this woman by taking her load until she could get to a better spot a little further down. To my surprise, I found the load to be over 100 pounds, far more than I expected. The woman’s husband, who was below, soon came to her aid. The group continued on with us to the salt works, where we arrived late in the evening to find them without meat and three members of the party—J. Field, Gibson, and Shannon—out hunting. I was extremely tired, and my party seemed worn out as well, so I decided to stay until morning and let us rest a bit. The Clatsops continued on with their loads. The Clatsops, Chinooks, Kilamox, etc. are very talkative and curious. They have good memories and have repeated to us the names and capacities of many vessels and others who have visited the mouth of this river. They are generally short, proportionately small, somewhat lighter-skinned, and less well-formed than the Indians from Missouri and those from our frontiers. They are usually cheerful but never overly happy. With us, their conversations often revolve around trade, smoking, eating, or their women. About the latter, they speak openly in their presence about everything, including the most intimate details. They do not hold the virtue of their women in high regard and will even trade their wives and daughters for a fishing hook or a string of beads. Like other primitive nations, they make their women perform all kinds of domestic work; however, in almost every type of this work, the men also participate. Their women are expected to gather roots and help catch fish, which make up a large part of their food supply. Despite the servile way they treat their women, they show more respect for their judgment and opinions in many respects than most Indian nations do. Their women are allowed to speak freely in front of them and sometimes appear to have authority. They usually consult them during trade and act according to their opinions.
I think it may be established as a general maxim that those nations treat their old people and women with most defference and respect where they Subsist principally on Such articles that these can participate with the men in obtaining them; and that, that part of the Community are treated with least attention, when the act of precureing subsistance devolves intirely on the men in the vigor of life. It appears to me that nature has been much more deficient in her filial ties than in any others of the Strong effections of the humane heart, and therefore think our old men equally with our woman indebted to Sivilization for their ease and Comfort. I am told among the Sioux's, Assinniboins and others on the Missouri who Subsist by hunting it is a Custom when a person of either Sex becoms So old and infirm that they are unable to travel on foot, from Camp to Camp as they rove in serch of Subsistance, for the Children or near relations of Such person to leave them without Compunction or remorse; on those occasions they usially place within their reach a Small piece of meat and a platter of water, telling the poor old Superannuated retch for their Consolation, that he or She had lived long enough, and that it was time they Should die and go to their relations who Can afford to take Care of them, much better than they Could. I am informed that the Me ne tar es Ar war har mays and Ricares when attended by their old people on their hunting expedition prosued the Same Custom; but injustice to those people I must observe that it appeared to me at their villages, that they provided tolerably well for their aged persons, and Several of their feasts appear to have principally for their object a contribution for their aged and infirm persons. In one of the Mandan villages I Saw an old man to whome I gave a knife and enquired his age, he Said he had Seen more than 100 winters, and that he Should Soon go down the river to their old village—he requested I would give him Something to prevent the pain in his back his grand Son a Young man rebuked the old man and Said it was not worth while, that it was time for the old man to die. the old man occupied one Side of the fire and was furnished with plenty of Covouring and food, and every attention appeared to be paid him &c. Jo. Field in my absence had killed an Elk and a Deer, brought in the Deer and half of the Elk on a part of which we Suped, Some rain a little after dark. I visited a house near the Salt boilers found it inhabited by 2 families, they were pore dirty and their house Sworming with flees.-
I think it’s safe to say that nations show more respect to their elderly and women when everyone shares in gathering the food, and those groups get less attention when the responsibility for getting food falls entirely on the men in their prime. To me, it seems like nature has failed to create strong familial bonds compared to other deep feelings in the human heart, and I believe our elderly men and women owe a lot of their comfort to civilization. I've heard that among the Sioux, Assiniboine, and others along the Missouri who live by hunting, it's customary for family members to leave behind anyone who becomes too old or weak to travel from camp to camp in search of food, without feeling guilty. They usually put a small piece of meat and a plate of water within reach of the elderly person, telling them for comfort that they’ve lived long enough, and it's time to pass on and join their loved ones, who can take better care of them. I've been told that the Menominee, Arikara, and others follow the same practice, but I must say that in their villages, it seemed to me that they looked after their elderly fairly well, and many of their feasts seemed to focus on providing for their aged and infirm members. In one of the Mandan villages, I met an old man to whom I gave a knife and asked his age; he said he had seen over 100 winters and would soon be heading back downriver to their old village. He asked me for something to help with the pain in his back, but his grandson, a young man, scolded him, saying it wasn't worth it and that it was time for the old man to die. The old man sat on one side of the fire, well-covered and with plenty of food, and everyone seemed to pay him attention. Jo. Field had killed an elk and a deer in my absence, bringing in the deer and half of the elk, which we ate some of after a little rain later in the evening. I visited a house near the salt boilers and found it inhabited by two families; they were poor, dirty, and their house was swarming with fleas.
[Lewis, January 10, 1806]
Saturday January 10th 1806. About 10 A.M. I was visited by Tia Shah-har-war-cap and eleven of his nation in one large canoe; these are the Cuth'-lah-mah nation who reside first above us on the South side of the Columbia river; this is the first time that I have seen the Chief, he was hunting when we past his vilage on our way to this place. I gave him a medal of the smallest size; he presented me with some indian tobacco and a basquit of wappetoe, in return for which I gave him some thread for making a skiming net and a small piece of tobacco. these people speak the same language with the Chinnooks and Catsops whom they also resemble in their dress customs manners &c. they brought some dryed salmon, wappetoe, dogs, and mats made of rushes and flags, to barter; their dogs and a part of their wappetoe they disposed off, an remained all night near the fort. This morning Drewyer and Collins returned having killed two Elk only, and one of those had died in their view over a small lake which they had not the means of passing it being late in the evening and has of course spoiled, as it laid with the entrals in it all night; as the tide was going out we could not send for the elk today, therefore ordered a party to go for it early in the morning and George and Collins to continue their hunt; meat has now become scarce with us.
Saturday, January 10th, 1806. Around 10 A.M., I was visited by Tia Shah-har-war-cap and eleven members of his nation in one large canoe; they are from the Cuth'-lah-mah nation, who live upstream on the south side of the Columbia River. This was the first time I had seen the Chief; he was hunting when we passed his village on our way here. I gave him a small medal, and in return, he gave me some Indian tobacco and a basket of wappetoe. I also gave him some thread for making a skimming net and a small piece of tobacco. These people speak the same language as the Chinnooks and Catsops, and they are similar to them in dress, customs, and manners, etc. They brought some dried salmon, wappetoe, dogs, and mats made of rushes and flags to trade. They sold some of their dogs and part of their wappetoe and stayed near the fort for the night. This morning, Drewyer and Collins returned with only two elk; one of them had died in sight over a small lake, and they couldn’t get to it because it was late in the evening, so it spoiled as it lay there all night with its entrails. Since the tide was going out, we couldn’t send for the elk today, so I ordered a party to go for it early in the morning while George and Collins continued their hunt. Meat has become scarce for us now.
Capt Clark returned at to P.M. this evening with the majority of the party who accompanyed him; having left some men to assist the saltmakers to bring in the meat of two Elk which they had killed, and sent 2 others through by land to hunt. Capt. Clark found the whale on the Coast about 45 Miles S. E. of Point Adams, and about 35 Miles from Fort Clatsop by the rout he took; The whale was already pillaged of every valuable part by the Killamucks, in the vicinity of one of whose villages it lay on the strand where the waves and tide had driven up and left it. this skelleton measured one hundred and five feet. Capt. C. found the natives busily engaged in boiling the blubber, which they performed in a large wooden trought by means of hot stones; the oil when extracted was secured in bladders and the guts of the whale; the blubber, from which the oil was only partially extracted by this process, was laid by in their lodges in large fliches for uce; this they usually expose to the fire on a wooden spit untill it is pretty well warmed through and then eat it either alone or with the roots of the rush, squawmash, fern wappetoe &c. The natives although they possessed large quantities of this blubber and oil were so penurious that they disposed of it with great reluctance and in small quantities only; insomuch that the utmost exertions of Capt. C. and the whole party aided by the little stock of merchandize he had taken with him and some small articles which the men had, were not able to procure more blubber than about 300 lb. and a few gallons of the oil; this they have brought with them, and small as the store is, we prize it highly, and thank providence for directing the whale to us, and think him much more kind to us than he was jonah, having sent this monster to be swallowed by us in stead of swallowing of us as jona's did. Capt. C. found the road along the coast extreemly difficult of axcess, lying over some high rough and stoney hills, one of which he discribes as being much higher than the others, having it's base washed by the Ocean over which it rares it's towering summit perpendicularly to the hight of 1500 feet; from this summit Capt. C. informed me that there was a delightfull and most extensive view of the Ocean, the coast and adjacent country; this Mout. I have taken the liberty of naming Clark's Mountain and point of view; it is situated about 30 M. S. E. of Point Adams and projects about 21/2 miles into the Ocean; Killamucks river falls in a little to the N. W. of this mountain; in the face of this tremendious precepice there is a stra of white earth (see specimen No. ____) which the neighbouring Indians use to paint themselves, and which appears to me to resemble the earth of which the French Porcelain is made; I am confident this earth contains Argill, but wether it also contains Silex or magnesia, or either of those earths in a proper proportion I am unable to determine.—Shannon and Gass were found with the Salt makers and ordered to return McNeal was near being assassinated by a Killamuck Indian, but fortunately escaped in consequence of a Chinnook woman giving information to Capt. C., the party and Indians with them before the villain had prepaired himself to execute his purposes. The party returned excessively fortiegued and tired of their jaunt. Killamucks river is 85 yards wide, rappid and 3 feet deep in the shallowest part. The Killamucks in their habits customs manners dress and language differ but little from the Clatsops & Chinnooks. they place their dead in canoes resting on the ground uncovered, having previously secured the dead bodies in an oblong box of plank.
Capt. Clark returned at 5 PM this evening with most of the party who accompanied him, having left some men to help the saltmakers bring in the meat of two elk they had killed, and sent two others overland to hunt. Capt. Clark found the whale on the coast about 45 miles southeast of Point Adams and about 35 miles from Fort Clatsop by the route he took. The whale had already been stripped of every valuable part by the Killamucks, lying on the beach where the waves and tide had washed it up. This skeleton measured 105 feet. Capt. C. found the natives busy boiling the blubber in a large wooden trough using hot stones. The oil extracted was stored in bladders and the whale's guts; the blubber, from which only some oil was extracted, was kept in their lodges in large pieces for use. They usually warm it over fire on a wooden spit until it's heated through and then eat it either by itself or with the roots of rush, squash, fern, and other plants. Although they had large amounts of blubber and oil, the natives were so stingy that they only traded it reluctantly and in small quantities. The combined efforts of Capt. C., the entire party, the limited merchandise he brought, and some small items the men had managed to procure only about 300 pounds of blubber and a few gallons of oil. They brought this back with them; despite the small amount, we value it highly and thank providence for bringing us this whale, feeling it was much kinder than the one in Jonah's story, giving us this monster instead of swallowing us. Capt. C. found the coastal road extremely difficult to access, crossing high, rough, and stony hills, one of which he described as significantly taller than the others, with its base washed by the ocean and its towering summit reaching 1,500 feet high. From this summit, Capt. C. informed me there was a delightful and extensive view of the ocean, the coast, and the surrounding area; I've taken the liberty of naming this mountain Clark’s Mountain and viewpoint. It is located about 30 miles southeast of Point Adams and extends about 2.5 miles into the ocean. The Killamucks River flows a little to the northwest of this mountain. On the face of this immense cliff, there is a streak of white earth (see specimen No. ____) that the neighboring Indians use to paint themselves, which I believe resembles the earth used to make French porcelain. I am confident this earth contains clay, but I can't determine whether it also contains silica or magnesium, or either of those in the right proportions. Shannon and Gass were found with the saltmakers and ordered to return. McNeal was nearly attacked by a Killamuck Indian but fortunately escaped because a Chinook woman informed Capt. C. and the party before the assailant was fully prepared to carry out his plan. The party returned extremely fatigued and tired from their trip. The Killamucks River is 85 yards wide, rapid, and 3 feet deep at its shallowest point. The Killamucks, in their habits, customs, manners, dress, and language, differ little from the Clatsops and Chinooks. They place their dead in canoes resting on the ground uncovered, having first secured the bodies in an oblong box made of planks.
The coast in the neighbourhood of Clarks Mountain is sliping off & falling into the Ocean in immence masses; fifty or a hundred Acres at a time give way and a great proportion in an instant precipitated into the Ocean. these hills and mountains are principally composed of a yellow clay; there sliping off or spliting assunder at this time is no doubt caused by the incessant rains which have fallen within the last two months. the country in general as about Fort Clatsop is covered with a very heavy growth of several species of pine & furr, also the arbor vita or white cedar and a small proportion of the black Alder which last sometimes grows to the hight of sixty or seventy feet, and from two to four feet in diameter. some species of the pine rise to the immence hight of 210 feet and are from 7 to 12 feet in diameter, and are perfectly sound and solid.
The coastline near Clarks Mountain is sliding off and falling into the ocean in huge chunks; fifty or a hundred acres at a time give way, and a significant amount drops into the ocean in an instant. These hills and mountains are mainly made of yellow clay; their sliding off or splitting apart right now is undoubtedly caused by the nonstop rain that has fallen over the past two months. The area around Fort Clatsop is generally covered with a dense growth of several species of pine and fir, as well as arborvitae or white cedar, and a small amount of black alder, which can sometimes grow to heights of sixty or seventy feet and measure two to four feet in diameter. Some species of pine reach the incredible height of 210 feet and are between seven and twelve feet in diameter, and are completely sound and solid.
[Clark, January 10, 1806]
Jany 10 Friday 1806 I left Sergt. Gass here and Set out at Sun rise, Crossed the little river which I waded 85 yards wide & 3 feet Deep Swift, at which place I Saw Several Indians one of which had 2 butifull Sea orter Skins on as a roabe, here the Creek which I crossed at a tree and on which I camped the 6th inst. came within 200 yds of the river & they Inds. make a portage here, Continued on a place 3 miles Crossed this Creek in a Small Canoe. here I expected to find Shannon and gibson with meet to furnish the Salt makers, but did not, divided the party Sent 2 men to my right to try and kill Elk, Soon after met Gibson & Shannon with meat, they had killed 2 Elk 2 miles to my right, I divided the meat between the party, and the load of 3 men whome I Send with gibson & Shannon to help Carrey the 2 Elk to the Salt makers, and I my Self and the party returned by the Same rout we went out to the Canoes Rd. Frasure behaved very badly, and mutonous—he also lost his large Knife. I Sent him back to look for his knife, with Directions to return with the party of Serjt Gass, I proceded on, here is a portage of 1/4 of a mile from this Creck to a branch which falls into the Bay, we proceeded on a much bette road than we went out across a Deep Slash and found our Canoes Safe, and Set out at Sunset, and arived at the foart, wet and Cold at 9 oClock P.M. found a Cheif & number of Indians both Encamped on the Shore, and at the fort of the Cath la-hur Tribe which lives at no great distance above this back of an Island Close under the South Side of the Columbia River
January 10, Friday, 1806. I left Sergeant Gass here and set out at sunrise. I crossed the little river, which I waded through; it was 85 yards wide and 3 feet deep with a swift current. At this spot, I saw several Indians, one of whom was wearing two beautiful sea otter skins as a robe. The creek I crossed at a tree, where I camped on the 6th, was only 200 yards from the river, and the Indians make a portage here. I continued on for 3 miles and crossed this creek in a small canoe. I expected to find Shannon and Gibson with meat for the salt makers, but I didn’t see them. I divided the party and sent two men to my right to try to hunt elk. Soon after, I met Gibson and Shannon with meat; they had killed 2 elk 2 miles to my right. I divided the meat among the party and loaded three men, whom I sent with Gibson and Shannon to help carry the two elk to the salt makers. I, along with the rest of the party, returned the same way we came to the canoe road. Frasure behaved very poorly and was mutinous—he also lost his big knife. I sent him back to look for his knife, with instructions to return with Sergeant Gass's party. I proceeded on. There is a portage of a quarter of a mile from this creek to a branch that flows into the bay. We continued on a much better road than we took out, crossing a deep slash and found our canoes safe. We set out at sunset and arrived at the fort, wet and cold, at 9 o'clock PM. We found a chief and a number of Indians camped on the shore and at the fort of the Cathla-hur tribe, which lives not far above this, behind an island close to the south side of the Columbia River.
Those people Speake the Same Language of the Clotsops dress nearly alike the men of both Cut their hair in the neck. use blankets of the manifactory of the nativs near the falls of the Sheep Wool-fond of brass arm bands and Check, They bring Wap-pa-to root (which is Sagittifolia or the Common arrow head which is Cultivated by the Chinees) to Sell.
Those people speak the same language. The Clotsops dress almost the same; the men from both groups cut their hair at the neck. They use blankets made by the natives near the falls and wear brass arm bands and checkered patterns. They bring Wap-pa-to root (which is Sagittifolia or the common arrowhead cultivated by the Chinese) to sell.
[Clark, January 10, 1806]
Friday the 10th of January 1806 I derected Serjt. Gass to Continue with the Salt makers untill Shannon return from hunting, and then himself and Shannon to return to the Fort, I Set out at Sunrise with the party waded the Clat Sop river which I found to be 85 Steps across and 3 feet deep, on the opposite Side a Kil a mox Indian Came to and offered to Sell Some roots of which I did not want, he had a robe made of 2 large Sea otter Skins which I offered to purchase, but he would not part with them, we returned by nearly the Same rout which I had Come out, at four miles, I met Gibson & Shannon each with a load of meat, they informed me that they had killed Elk about 2 miles off, I directed 3 men to go with the hunters and help them pack the meat to the place they were makeing Salt, and return to the fort with Serjt. Gass, the balance of the party took the load of the 3 men, after crossing the 2d Creek frasure informed me that he had lost his big knife, here we Dined, I put frasurs load on my guide who is yet with me, and Sent him back in Serch of his knife with directions to join the other men who were out packing meat & return to the fort all together. I arrived at the Canoes about Sunset, the tides was Comeing in I thought it a favourable time to go on to the fort at which place we arrived at 10 oClock P M, found Several inidians of the Cath'-lah-mah nation the great Chief Shahhar-wah cop who reside not far above us on the South Side of the Columbia River, this is the first time I have Seen the Chief, he was hunting when we passed his village on our way to this place, we gave him a medal of the Smallest Size, he presented me with a basquet of Wappato, in return for which I gave him a fish hook of a large Size and Some wire, those people Speak the Same language with the Chinnooks and Clatsops, whome they all resemble in Dress, Custom, manners &c. they brought Some Dried Salmon, Wappato, Dogs, and mats made of rushes & flags to barter; their Dogs and part of their wappato they disposed of, and remained in their Camp near the fort all night.
On Friday, January 10, 1806, I instructed Sergeant Gass to continue working with the salt makers until Shannon returned from hunting, at which point both Gass and Shannon were to come back to the Fort. I set out at sunrise with the group and waded across the Clat Sop River, which I found to be 85 steps wide and 3 feet deep. On the other side, a Kila Mox Indian approached and offered to sell some roots that I wasn't interested in. He had a robe made from two large sea otter skins that I tried to buy, but he wouldn't sell it. We returned almost the same way I had come. About four miles in, I met Gibson and Shannon, each carrying a load of meat. They told me they had killed an elk about 2 miles away. I directed three men to go with the hunters to help carry the meat to where they were making salt and then return to the Fort with Sergeant Gass. The rest of the party took the load from those three men. After crossing the second creek, Frasure told me he had lost his big knife, so we stopped for lunch there. I put Frasure's load on my guide, who is still with me, and sent him back to search for his knife, directing him to join the other men packing meat and return to the Fort together. I arrived at the canoes around sunset, and since the tide was coming in, I thought it was a good time to head to the Fort, where we arrived at 10 PM. I found several Indians from the Cath'-lah-mah nation, including the great Chief Shahhar-wah cop, who live not far upstream on the south side of the Columbia River. This was the first time I had seen the Chief; he was out hunting when we passed his village on our way here. We gave him a small-sized medal, and in return, he presented me with a basket of wappato. I gave him a large fish hook and some wire in exchange. These people speak the same language as the Chinooks and Clatsops, and they resemble them in dress, customs, manners, and so on. They brought dried salmon, wappato, dogs, and mats made from rushes and flags to trade. They sold some of their dried salmon and wappato and camped near the Fort for the night.
In my absence the hunters from the fort killed only two Elk which is yet out in the woods. Capt. Lewis examined our Small Stock of merchendize found Some of it wet and Dried it by the fire. Our merchindize is reduced to a mear handfull, and our Comfort, dureing our return next year, much depends on it, it is therefore almost unnecessary to add that it is much reduced The nativs in this neighbourhood are excessively fond of Smokeing tobacco. in the act of Smokeing they appear to Swallow it as they draw it from the pipe, and for maney draughts together you will not perceive the Smoke they take from the pipe, in the Same manner they inhale it in their longs untill they become Surcharged with the vapour when they puff it out to a great distance through their norstils and mouth; I have no doubt that tobacco Smoked in this manner becomes much more intoxicating, and that they do possess themselves of all its virtues to the fullest extent; they frequently give us Sounding proofs of its createing a dismorallity of order in the abdomen, nor are those light matters thought indelicate in either Sex, but all take the liberty of obeying the dicktates of nature without reserve. Those people do not appear to know the use of Speritious licquors, they never haveing once asked us for it; I prosume therefore that the traders who visit them have never indulged them with the use of it; of whatever Cause this may proceed, it is a verry fortunate occurrence, as well for the nativs themselves, as for the quiet and Safty of those whites who visit them. George Drewyer visited this traps in my absence and caught a Beaver & a otter; the beaver was large and fat, and Capt. L. has feested Sumptiously on it yesterday; this we Consider as a great prize, it being a full grown beaver was well Supplyed with the materials for makeing bate with which to Catch others. this bate when properly prepared will entice the beaver to visit it as far as he can Smell it, and this I think may be Safely Stated at 1/2 a mile, their Sence of Smelling being verry accute. To prepare beaver bate, the Caster or bark Stone is taken as the base, this is generally pressed out of the bladder like bag which Contains it, into a phiol of 4 ounces with a wide mouth; if you have them you will put from 4 to 6 Stone in a phial of that Capacity, to this you will add half a nutmeg, a Dozen or 15 grains of Cloves and 30 grains of Sinimon finely pulverised, Stur them well together, and then add as much ardent Sperits to the Composition as will reduce it to the Consistancey of mustard prepared for the table, when thus prepared it resembles mustard precisely to all appearance. When you cannot precure a phial a bottle made of horn or a light earthern vessel will answer, in all Cases it must be excluded from the air or it will Soon lose its Virtue; it is fit for use imediately it is prepared but becoms much Stronger and better in 4 or 5 days and will keep for months provided it be purfectly Secluded from the air. when Cloves are not to be had use double the quantity of allspice, and when no Spices can be obtained use the bark of the root of the Sausafras; when Sperits cannot be had use oil Stone of the beaver adding mearly a Sufficent quantity to moisten the other materials, or reduce it to a Stiff paste. it appears to me that the principal use of the Spices is only to give a variety to the Scent of the bark Stone and if So the mace vineller, and other Sweet Smelling Spices might be employd with equal advantage. The Male Beaver has Six stones, two which Contanes a Substance much like finely pulverised bark of a pale yellow Colour and not unlike tanner's ooz in Smell, these are Called the bark Stones or castors; two others, which like the bark stone resemble Small blatters, contain a pure oil of a Strong rank disagreable Smell, and not unlike train Oil, these are Called the Oil Stones, and two others of Generation. The bark stones are about 2 inches in length, the others Somewhat Smaller, all are of a long Oval form, and lye in a bunch together between the skin and the root of the tail beneath or behind the fundiment with which they are Closely Connected and Seam to Communicate, the pride of the female lye on the inner Side much like those of the hog they have no further parts of Generation that I can proceive, and therefore believe that like the birds they Coperate with the extremity of the gut. The female have from 2 to 4 young ones at a birth and bring forth once a year only which usially happins about the Latter end of May and beginning of June. at this Stage She is Said to drive the Mail from the lodge, who would otherwise distroy the young
In my absence, the hunters from the fort killed only two elk, which are still out in the woods. Captain Lewis checked our small stock of merchandise and found some of it wet, so he dried it by the fire. Our merchandise has been reduced to a mere handful, and our comfort during our return next year depends greatly on it, so it’s almost unnecessary to say that it is much diminished. The natives in this area are extremely fond of smoking tobacco. While smoking, they seem to swallow it as they pull it from the pipe, and for many puffs in a row, you won’t notice the smoke they draw. They inhale it into their lungs until they become saturated with the vapor, then they blow it out at a great distance through their nostrils and mouth. I'm sure that tobacco smoked this way becomes much more intoxicating, and they seem to enjoy all its effects to the fullest extent. They often give us clear signs of it causing a disturbance in the abdomen, and these issues are not considered taboo by either sex; everyone feels free to heed the calls of nature without restraint. These people don’t appear to know the use of alcoholic drinks, as they have never once asked us for it. I assume that the traders who visit them haven’t provided it to them; whatever the reason, this is a fortunate situation for both the natives and for the safety of those whites who visit them. George Drewyer checked the traps in my absence and caught a beaver and an otter; the beaver was large and fat, and Captain L. enjoyed a sumptuous feast on it yesterday. We consider this a great prize, as the full-grown beaver was well-supplied with materials for making bait to catch others. This bait, when prepared properly, will attract beavers from as far as they can smell it, which I believe is about half a mile since their sense of smell is very keen. To prepare beaver bait, the caster, or bark stone, is taken as the base; it’s usually pressed out of the bladder-like bag that contains it, into a 4-ounce vial with a wide mouth. If you have them, you’ll put 4 to 6 stones in a vial of that size, and then add half a nutmeg, a dozen or 15 grains of cloves, and 30 grains of cinnamon, all finely ground. Stir them well together, and then add enough alcohol to the mixture so it has the consistency of mustard prepared for the table. When prepared this way, it resembles mustard exactly in appearance. If you can’t get a vial, a bottle made of horn or a light earthen vessel will work; in all cases, it must be kept away from the air or it will quickly lose its potency. It’s ready for use as soon as it’s prepared but becomes much stronger and better after 4 or 5 days, and it will keep for months if perfectly sealed from the air. If cloves aren’t available, use double the amount of allspice, and if no spices can be found, use the bark of the sassafras root. If spirits aren’t available, use beaver oil, merely adding a sufficient quantity to moisten the other materials or reduce it to a stiff paste. It seems to me that the primary purpose of the spices is just to add variety to the scent of the bark stone, and if that’s the case, mace, vanilla, and other sweet-smelling spices could be used with equal benefit. The male beaver has six stones: two contain a substance similar to finely ground pale yellow bark, which smells a lot like tanner’s ooze, these are called the bark stones or castors; the other two, which resemble small bladders, contain a pure oil with a strong, unpleasant smell, not unlike train oil, and these are called the oil stones; and the last two are for reproduction. The bark stones are about 2 inches long, while the others are somewhat smaller, all are elongated and oval-shaped, and lie in a bunch together between the skin and the root of the tail, closely attached and seeming to connect. The pride of the female lies on the inner side, much like those of a hog; they don’t have any further reproductive parts that I can perceive, and I therefore believe that, like birds, they reproduce through the end of the intestine. The females have 2 to 4 young ones at a time and give birth only once a year, usually around the end of May or beginning of June. At this stage, she is said to drive the male away from the lodge, who would otherwise harm the young.
[Lewis, January 11, 1806]
Sunday January 11th 1806. Sent a party early this morning for the Elk which was killed on the 9th. they returned with it in the evening; Drewyer and Collins also returned without having killed anything. this morning the Sergt. of the guard reported the absence of our Indian Canoe, on enquiry we found that those who came in it last evening had been negligent in securing her and the tide in the course of the night had taken her off; we sent a party down to the bay in surch of her, they returned unsuccessfull, the party also who went up the river and Creek in quest of the meat were ordered to lookout for her but were equally unsuccessfull; we ordered a party to resume their resurches for her early tomorrow; this will be a very considerable loss to us if we do not recover her; she is so light that four men can carry her on their sholders a mile or more without resting; and will carry three men and from 12 to 15 hundred lbs. the Cuthlahmahs left us this evening on their way to the Catsops, to whom they purpose bartering their wappetoe for the blubber and oil of the whale, which the latter purchased for beads &c. from the Killamucks; in this manner there is a trade continually carryed on by the natives of the river each trading some article or other with their neighbours above and below them; and thus articles which are vended by the whites at the entrance of this river, find their way to the most distant nations enhabiting it's waters.
Sunday, January 11, 1806. I sent a group out early this morning for the elk that was killed on the 9th. They returned with it in the evening; Drewyer and Collins came back too but without any kills. This morning, the sergeant of the guard reported that our Indian canoe was missing. Upon investigation, we discovered that the people who came in it last night had not secured it properly, and the tide took it away overnight. We sent a team down to the bay to search for it, but they returned unsuccessful. The team that went up the river and creek looking for the meat was also instructed to keep an eye out for her but had no luck either. We ordered a party to resume the search for her early tomorrow; losing it will be a significant blow for us if we can't recover it. It's light enough that four men can carry it on their shoulders for a mile or more without resting and can hold three men along with 1200 to 1500 lbs. The Cuthlahmahs left us this evening on their way to the Catsops, where they plan to trade their wappetoe for whale blubber and oil, which the latter gets in exchange for beads, etc., from the Killamucks. In this way, there is a constant trade taking place among the local tribes along the river, each trading some items with their neighbors both upstream and downstream, allowing goods sold by the white traders at the river's mouth to reach even the most distant tribes inhabiting its waters.
[Clark, January 11, 1806]
Saturday 11th of January 1806 Sent a party early this morning for the Elk which was killed on the 9th they returned with it in the evining; This morning the Serjt. of the guard reported that our Indian Canoe had gone a Drift, on enquiry we found that those who Came in it last evening had been negligent in Secureing her, and the tide in Corse of the night had taken her off; we Sent a party down to the bay in Serch of her, they returned unsecksessfull, the party who went up the river and Creek after meat were derected to look out for her but were equally unsecksessfull; this will be a verry considerable loss to us if we do not recover her, She is so light that 4 men Can Carry her on their Sholders a mile or more without resting, and will Carry four men and from 10 to 12 hundred pounds. The Cath IA mahs left us this evening on their way to the Clatsops, to whome they perpose bartering their wappato for the blubber & Oil of the whale, which the latter purchased for Beeds &c. from the Kil a mox; in this manner there is a trade Continually Carried on by the nativs of the river each tradeing Some articles or other with their neighbours above and below them, and those articles which are Vended by the whites at their enterance of this river, find their way to the most distant nations inhabiting its waters.
Saturday, January 11, 1806 We sent a group out early this morning for the elk that was killed on the 9th, and they returned with it in the evening. This morning, the sergeant of the guard reported that our Indian canoe had gone adrift. Upon investigation, we found that those who used it last evening had been careless in securing it, and the tide had taken it away during the night. We sent a group down to the bay to search for it, but they returned unsuccessful. The party that went up the river and creek looking for food was also instructed to keep an eye out for the canoe, but they were equally unsuccessful. This will be a significant loss for us if we don’t recover it. It is so light that four men can carry it on their shoulders for a mile or more without resting, and it can hold four men and between 1,000 to 1,200 pounds. The Cath IA mahs left us this evening on their way to the Clatsops, where they plan to barter their wapato for the blubber and oil of the whale, which they purchased for beads and other items from the Kilamox. In this way, there is a continuous trade carried on by the natives of the river, each trading various goods with their neighbors upstream and downstream. The items sold by the whites at the entrance of this river eventually reach the most distant nations living along its waters.
[Lewis, January 12, 1806]
Monday January 12th 1806. The men who were sent in surch of the canoe returned without being able to find her, we therefore give her over as lost. This morning sent out Drewyer and one man to hunt, they returned in the evening, Drewyer having killed seven Elk; I scarcely know how we should subsist were it not for the exertions of this excellet hunter. At 2 P.M. the ballance of the party who had been left by Capt. C. arrived; about the same time the two hunters also arrived who had been dispatched by Capt C. for the purpose of hunting on the 9th inst.; they had killed nothing. We have heretofore usually divided the meat when first killed among the four messes into which we have divided our party leaving to each the care of preserving and the discretion of using it, but we find that they make such prodigal use of it when they hapen to have a tolerable stock on hand that we have determined to adapt a different system with our present stock of seven Elk; this is to jerk it & issue it to them in small quantities.
Monday, January 12th, 1806. The men who were sent in search of the canoe returned without finding it, so we have to consider her lost. This morning, I sent out Drewyer and another man to hunt; they came back in the evening, with Drewyer having killed seven elk. I honestly don’t know how we would survive without the efforts of this excellent hunter. At 2 P.M., the rest of the group left by Capt. C. arrived; around the same time, the two hunters dispatched by Capt. C. for hunting on the 9th also returned, but they hadn’t killed anything. Until now, we have typically divided the meat when it was first killed among the four messes we’ve organized our party into, leaving each group responsible for preserving and deciding how to use it. However, we’ve realized that they tend to use it so wastefully when they have a decent supply on hand that we've decided to implement a different system. For our current supply of seven elk, we will jerk the meat and distribute it to them in small quantities.
[Clark, January 12, 1806]
Sunday the 12th January 1806 This morning Sent out Drewyer and one man to hunt, they returned in the evening Drewyer haveing killed 7 Elk; I scercely know how we Should Subsist, I beleive but badly if it was not for the exertions of this excellent hunter; maney others also exert themselves, but not being accquainted with the best method of finding and killing the elk and no other wild animals is to be found in this quarter, they are unsucksessfull in their exertions. at 2 P. M Serjt. Gass and the men I left to assist the Salt makers in Carrying in their meat arrived also the hunters which I directed to hunt in the point, they killed nothing-. We have heretofore devided the meat when first killed among the four messes, into which we have divided our party, leaveing to each the Care of preserving and distribution of useing it; but we find that they make such prodigal use of it when they happen to have a tolerable Stock on hand, that we are determined to adapt a Different System with our present stock of Seven Elk; this is to jurk it and issue it to them in Small quantities
Sunday, January 12, 1806 This morning, I sent out Drewyer and one man to hunt. They returned in the evening, with Drewyer having killed 7 elk. I honestly don't know how we would survive without the efforts of this excellent hunter. Many others try as well, but they aren’t familiar with the best ways to find and kill elk, and since there are no other wild animals in this area, their efforts aren’t successful. At 2 P.M., Sergeant Gass and the men I left to help the salt makers carry in their meat arrived, as did the hunters I had instructed to hunt in the bend, but they didn’t kill anything. Previously, we divided the meat among the four messes in which our party is organized, leaving each group responsible for preserving and distributing it. However, we’ve noticed that when they have a decent supply, they waste it, so we’ve decided to implement a different system with our current stock of seven elk: we’ll jerk the meat and issue it to them in small quantities.
[Lewis, January 13, 1806]
Tuesday January 13th 1806. This morning I took all the men who could be spared from the Fort and set out in quest of the flesh of the seven Elk that were killed yesterday, we found it in good order being untouched by the wolves, of which indeed there are but few in this country; at 1 P.M. we returned having gotten all the meat to the fort. this evening we exhausted the last of our candles, but fortunately had taken the precaution to bring with us moulds and wick, by means of which and some Elk's tallow in our possession we do not yet consider ourselves destitute of this necessary article; the Elk we have killed have a very small portion of tallow.
Tuesday, January 13th, 1806. This morning, I took all the men who could be spared from the Fort and set out to gather the meat from the seven elk that were killed yesterday. We found it in good condition, untouched by wolves, of which there are actually very few in this area. At 1 P.M., we returned with all the meat to the fort. This evening, we used up our last candles, but fortunately, we had the foresight to bring along molds and wicks. With these and some elk tallow we have on hand, we still don’t consider ourselves out of this essential item; the elk we've hunted have only a small amount of tallow.
The traders usually arrive in this quarter, as has been before observed, in the month of April, and remain untill October; when here they lay at anchor in a bay within Cape Disappointment on the N. side of the river; here they are visited by the natives in their canoes who run along side and barter their comodities with them, their being no houses or fortification on shore for that purpose. the nations who repare thither are fist, those of the sea coast S. E. of the entrance of the river, who reside in the order in which their names are mentioned, begining at the entrance of the river (viz) The Clatsop, Killamuck, Ne-cost, Nat-ti, Nat-chies, Tarl-che, E-slitch, You-cone and So-see. secondly those inhabiting the N. W. coast begining at the entrance of the river and mentioned in the same order; the Chinnook and Chiltch the latter very numerous; and thirdly the Cath-lah-mah, and Skil-lutes, the latter numerous and inhabiting the river from a few miles above the marshey Islands, where the Cuth-lahmahs cease, to the grand rappids. These last may be esteemed the principal carryers or intermediate traders betwen the whites and the Indians of the Sea Coast, and the E-ne-shurs, the E-chee-lutes, and the Chil-luckkit-te quaws, who inhabit the river above, to the grand falls inclusive, and who prepare most of the pounded fish which is brought to market. The bay in which this trade is carryed on is spacious and commodious, and perfectly secure from all except the S. and S. E. winds, these however are the most prevalent and strong winds in the Winter season. fresh water and wood are very convenient and excellent timber for refiting and reparing vessels.
The traders typically arrive in this area, as noted before, in April and stay until October; during this time, they anchor in a bay near Cape Disappointment on the north side of the river. Here, the natives come to visit in their canoes, trading their goods since there are no houses or fortifications on shore for that purpose. The groups that come here first include those from the southeast coastal area near the river’s entrance, living in the order of their names: The Clatsop, Killamuck, Ne-cost, Nat-ti, Nat-chies, Tarl-che, E-slitch, You-cone, and So-see. Secondly, those living on the northwest coast, starting at the river's entrance and listed in the same order, are the Chinnook and Chiltch, with the latter being very numerous. Thirdly, there are the Cath-lah-mah and Skil-lutes, the latter also numerous, inhabiting the river from a few miles above the marshy Islands, where the Cuth-lahmahs stop, to the grand rapids. These last groups can be seen as the main carriers or middlemen traders between the white settlers and the coastal Indians, as well as the E-ne-shurs, the E-chee-lutes, and the Chil-luckkit-te quaws, who live along the river above the grand falls and prepare most of the pounded fish that is sold in the market. The bay where this trade takes place is spacious, convenient, and completely sheltered from all winds except from the south and southeast, which are the strongest and most common winds during the winter. Fresh water and firewood are easily accessible, along with excellent timber for refurbishing and repairing vessels.
[Clark, January 13, 1806]
Monday 13th January 1806 Capt. Lewis took all the men which Could be Speared from the Fort and Set out in quest of the flesh of the Seven Elk which were killed yesterday they found the meat all Secure untouched by the Wolves, of which indeed there are but fiew in this Countrey; at 1 P.M. the party returned with the 2d and Last load of meat to the fort. this evening we finished all last of our Candles, we brought with us, but fortunately had taken the precaution to bring with us moulds and wick, by means of which and Some Elk tallow in our possession we do not think our Selves distitute of this necessary article, the Elk which have been killed have a verry Small portion of tallow. The Traders usially arrive in this quarter, in the month of april, and remain until October; when here they lay at anchor in a Bay within Cape Disapointment on the N. Side of the river; here they are visited by the nativs in their Canoes who run along Side and barter their Comodities with them, their being no houses or fortification on Shore for that purpose.
Monday, January 13, 1806, Capt. Lewis took all the men available from the Fort and set out to retrieve the meat from the seven elk killed yesterday. They found the meat completely secure and untouched by the wolves, of which there are indeed very few in this area. At 1 P.M., the party returned with the second and final load of meat to the fort. This evening, we finished the last of our candles that we brought with us, but fortunately, we thought ahead and brought molds and wicks. Using those and some elk tallow we had on hand, we believe we’re not lacking this essential item, though the elk that have been killed contain very little tallow. The traders usually arrive in this area in April and stay until October; when they are here, they anchor in a bay near Cape Disappointment on the north side of the river. Here, they are visited by the natives in their canoes, who glide alongside and trade their goods with them, as there are no houses or fortifications on shore for that purpose.
The nations who repare thither ar first those of the Sea Coast S. E & N W of the enterance of the river, who reside in the order in which their names are mentioned to the S E. the Clat Sops, Kil-a-mox, and those to the N W. the Chin nooks, and Chiltch; and Secondly the Cath-lah-mah, War-ki-a-cum, and Skil-lutes, the latter noumerous and inhabiting those last may be considered or intermedeate traders between the whites and nations on the Sea Coast, and the E-ne-churs, the E-chee-lutes, and the Chil-luck-kitte-quaws, who inhabit the river up to the great falls inclusive, and who prepare most of the pounded fish which is brought to Market.
The nations that come here first are those along the Southeast and Northwest coasts of the river's entrance, who live in the order their names are listed: the Clatsops, Kil-a-mox, and those in the Northwest like the Chinooks and Chiltch. Next are the Cathlamets, Warkiakum, and Skil-lutes, with the latter being numerous and acting as intermediaries between the whites and the coastal nations, as well as the E-ne-churs, Echee-lutes, and Chil-luck-kitte-quaws, who live along the river up to the great falls and prepare most of the pounded fish sold in the market.
The Bay in which the trade is Carried on is Spacious and Commodious, and perfectly Secure from all except the S. & S E Winds and those blow but Seldom the most prevalent & Strong winds are from the S W & N W in the Winter Season. fish water and wood are very Convenient and excellent timber for refitting and repareing vessels.-.
The bay where trade takes place is large and comfortable, completely protected from all winds except the south and southeast winds, which are rare. The most common and strongest winds come from the southwest and northwest during the winter. There is plenty of fish, fresh water, and wood available, as well as high-quality timber for repairing and refitting vessels.
[Lewis, January 14, 1806]
Wednesday January 14th 1806. This morning the Sergt. of the Guard reported the absence of one of the large perogues, it had broken the chord by which it was attatched and the tide had taken it off; we sent a party immediately in surch of her, they returned in about 3 hours having fortunately found her. we now directed three of the perogues to be drawn up out of reach of the tide and the fourth to be mored in the small branch just above the landing and confined with a strong rope of Elk-skin. had we lost this perogue also we should have been obliged to make three small ones, which with the few tools we have now left would be a serious undertaking. a fatiegue of 6 men employed in jerking the Elk beaf.
Wednesday, January 14th, 1806. This morning, the Sergeant of the Guard reported the absence of one of the large canoes; it had come loose from its mooring, and the tide had carried it away. We immediately sent a team to search for it, and they returned about three hours later, having fortunately found it. We then instructed three of the canoes to be pulled up and secured out of reach of the tide, while the fourth was to be moored in the small branch just above the landing and secured with a strong elk-skin rope. If we had lost this canoe as well, we would have had to construct three smaller ones, which, with the few tools we currently have left, would be a significant challenge. A fatigue crew of six men was employed in jerking the elk meat.
From the best estimate we were enabled to make as we dscended the Columbia we conceived that the natives inhabiting that noble stream, for some miles above the great falls to the grand rappids inclusive annually prepare about 30,000 lbs. of pounded sammon for market. but whether this fish is an article of commerce with the whites or is exclusively sold to and consumed by the natives of the sea Coast, we are at a loss to determine. the first of those positions I am disposed to credit most, but, still I must confess that I cannot imagine what the white merchant's object can be in purchasing this fish, or where they dispose of it. and on the other hand the Indians in this neighbourhood as well as the Skillutes have an abundance of dryed sammon which they take in the creeks and inlets, and I have never seen any of this pounded fish in their lodges, which I pesume would have been the case if they purchased this pounded fish for their own consumption. the Indians who prepared this dryed and pounded fish, informed us that it was to trade with the whites, and shewed us many articles of European manufacture which they obtained for it. it is true they obtain those articles principally for their fish but they trade with the Skillutes for them and not immediately with the whites; the intermediate merchants and carryers, the Skillutes, may possibly consume a part of this fish themselves and dispose of the ballance of it the natives of the sea coast, and from them obtain such articles as they again trade with the whites.
Based on our best estimate as we descended the Columbia River, we believed that the locals living along that impressive river, for several miles above the great falls to the grand rapids, prepare about 30,000 pounds of dried salmon each year for market. However, we were unsure if this fish is traded with the white settlers or if it is only sold to and consumed by the coastal Native Americans. I lean toward the first idea being more accurate, but I must admit I can’t figure out what the white merchants would want with this fish or where they sell it. On the other hand, the nearby tribes and the Skillutes have plenty of dried salmon that they catch in the creeks and inlets, and I have never seen any of the pounded fish in their lodges, which I assume would be the case if they bought this pounded salmon for their own use. The Indians who made this dried and pounded fish told us it was for trading with the whites and showed us many European items they got in exchange. It's true they mainly acquire those items for their fish, but they trade with the Skillutes rather than directly with the white settlers; the middlemen, the Skillutes, may consume some of the fish themselves and sell the rest to the coastal tribes, who then get items to trade back with the whites.
[Clark, January 14, 1806]
Tuesday 14th January 1806 This morning the Serjt. of the guard reported the absence of one of our Canoes it had broken the Cord by which it was attached and the tide had taken her off; we Sent a party imediately in Serch of her, they returned in about 3 hours haveing fortunately found her. we now derect that 3 of the canoes be drawed up out of reach of the tide and the 4th to be tied with a long Strong Cord of Elk Skins, ready for use. had we lost this large Canoe we Should have been obliged to make 3 other Small ones, which with the fiew tools we have now left would be a Serious undertakeing. a fatiege of Six men employd in jurking the Elk beef. From the best estermate we were enabled to make as we decended the Columbia we Conceived that the nativs inhabiting that noble Stream (from the enterance of Lewis's river to the neighbourhood of the falls the nativs Consume all the fish they Catch either for food or fuel) From Tow ar ne hi ooks River or a fiew mils above the Great falls to the grand rapids inclusive anually prepare about 30,000 lbs of pounded fish (Chiefly Salmon) for market, but whether this fish is an article of Commerce with their neighbours or is exclusively Sold to, and Consumed by the nativs of the Sea coast, we are at a loss to determine the latter of those positions I am dispose to credit most, as I cannot imagine what the white merchents objet Could be in purchaseing fish, or where they Could dispose of it. on the other hand the Indians in this neighbourhood as well as the Skillutes and those above have an abundance of Dryed Salmon which they take in the Creeks and inlets. they are excessively fond of the pounded fish haveing frequently asked us for Some of it-. the Indians who prepared this pounded fish made Signs that they traded it with people below them for Beeds and trinkets &c and Showed us maney articles of European manufacture which they obtained for it; The Skillutes and Indians about the great rapids are the intermediate merchants and Carryers, and no doubt Consume a part of this fish themselves and dispose of the ballance of it to the nativs of the Sea coast, and from this obtain Such articles as they again trade with the whites.
Tuesday, January 14, 1806 This morning, the sergeant of the guard reported that one of our canoes was missing; it had broken the cord it was tied with, and the tide had taken it away. We immediately sent a party to search for it, and they returned in about three hours, having fortunately found it. We now decide that three of the canoes will be pulled up out of reach of the tide, and the fourth will be tied with a long, strong cord made of elk skins, ready for use. If we had lost this large canoe, we would have had to make three smaller ones, which, given the few tools we have left, would be a serious undertaking. A fatigue crew of six men is employed in jerking the elk meat. From the best estimate we could make as we descended the Columbia, we believed that the natives living along that noble river (from the entrance of Lewis's River to the area around the falls) consume all the fish they catch, either for food or fuel. From Towar ne hi ooks River or a few miles above the Great Falls to the Grand Rapids, they annually prepare about 30,000 pounds of pounded fish (mostly salmon) for market. However, we are unsure whether this fish is traded with their neighbors or exclusively sold to and consumed by the natives of the coast. I tend to believe the latter, as I can't imagine what the white merchants would want by purchasing fish or where they could sell it. On the other hand, the nearby Indians, as well as the Skillutes and those upstream, have an abundance of dried salmon that they catch in the creeks and inlets. They are very fond of the pounded fish, frequently asking us for some. The Indians who prepared this pounded fish indicated that they trade it with people downstream for beads, trinkets, etc., and showed us many items of European manufacture that they obtained for it. The Skillutes and the Indians around the Great Rapids serve as intermediate merchants and carriers, and no doubt consume part of this fish themselves while selling the rest to the natives of the coast, thus obtaining items to trade with the whites.
The persons who usially visit the enterence of this river for the purpose of traffic or hunting, I believe is either English or Americans; the Indians inform us that they Speak the Same language with our Selves, and gave us proofs of their varacity by repeating maney words of English, Sun of a pitch &c. whether those traders are from Nootka Sound, from Some other late establishment on this Coast, or imediately from the U States or Great Brittain, I am at a loss to determine, nor Can the Indians inform us. the Indians whome I have asked in what direction the traders go when they depart from hence, allways point to the S. W. from which it is prosumeable that Nootka cannot be their distination, and from Indian information a majority of those traders annually visit them about the beginning of April and remain Some time and either remain or revisit them in the fall of which I cannot properly understand, from this Circumstance they Cannot Come directly from the U States or Great Brittain, the distance being to great for them to go and return in the ballance of a year. I am Sometimes induced to believe that there is Some other Establishment on the Coast of America South of this place of which little is but yet known to the world, or it may be perhaps on Some Island in the Pacific Ocian between the Continant of America & Asia to the S. W. of us. This traffic on the part of the whites Consist in vending, guns, principally old British or American Musquets, powder, balls and Shote, brass tea kettles, Blankets from two to three points, Scarlet and blue Cloth (Coarse), plates and Strips of Sheet Copper and brass, large brass wire Knives Beeds &Tobacco with fishing hooks, buttons and Some other Small articles; also a considerable quantity of Salors Clothes, as hats, Coats, Trouses and Shirts. for those they receive in return from the nativs Dressed and undressed Elk Skins, Skins of the Sea otter, Common Otter, beaver, common fox, Speck, and tiger Cat, also Some Salmon dried or pounded and a kind of buisket, which the nativs make of roots called by them Shappelell. The nativs are extravigantly fond of the most Common Cheap Blue and white beeds, of moderate Size, or Such that from 50 to 70 will way one pennyweight, the blue is usially prefured to the white; those beeds Constitute the principal Circulating medium with all the Indian tribes on this river; for those beeds they will dispose of any article they possess-. the beeds are Strung on Straps of a fathom in length & in that manner Sold by the breth or yard-.
The people who usually visit the entrance of this river for trade or hunting are, I believe, either English or American. The Native Americans tell us that they speak the same language as us and proved their honesty by repeating many English words, like "sun" and "pitch," etc. I can’t quite figure out whether these traders come from Nootka Sound, some other recent settlement on this coast, or directly from the United States or Great Britain, and the Native Americans can't tell us either. When I ask the Indians which direction the traders go when they leave, they always point southwest, so it seems likely that Nootka isn't their destination. According to the Native Americans, most of these traders visit them around early April and stay for a while, then either stay or come back in the fall, which I don’t fully understand. Because of this, they can't come directly from the United States or Great Britain; the distance would be too great for them to go and return in just one year. Sometimes, I think there might be some other settlement on the American coast south of here that the world doesn't know much about yet, or maybe it's on some island in the Pacific Ocean between the continents of America and Asia to the southwest of us. This trade with the white people mainly involves selling guns, mostly old British or American muskets, powder, balls and shot, brass tea kettles, blankets (ranging from two to three points), coarse scarlet and blue cloth, plates, strips of sheet copper and brass, large brass wire, knives, beads, and tobacco, along with fishing hooks, buttons, and some other small items. They also receive a considerable amount of sailors' clothes, like hats, coats, trousers, and shirts in return from the natives for dressed and undressed elk skins, sea otter skins, common otter, beaver, common fox, and skins from speckled and tiger cats, along with some dried or pounded salmon and a kind of biscuit that the natives make from roots called "shappelell." The natives are extremely fond of the most common, cheap blue and white beads of moderate size, where 50 to 70 of them weigh one pennyweight, with blue usually preferred over white. These beads serve as the main currency among all the Indian tribes on this river; for these beads, they will trade any item they own. The beads are strung on straps about a fathom long and sold by the breath or yard.
[Lewis, January 15, 1806]
Thursday January 15th 1806. Had a large coat completed out of the skins of the Tiger Cat and those also of a small animal about the size of a squirrel not known to me; these skins I procured from the Indians who had previously dressed them and formed them into robes; it took seven of these robes to complete the coat. we had determined to send out two hunting parties today but it rained so incessantly that we posponed it. no occurrence worthy of relation took place today.
Thursday, January 15th, 1806. I had a large coat made from the skins of the Tiger Cat and a small animal about the size of a squirrel that I’m not familiar with; I got these skins from the Indians, who had already prepared them and turned them into robes. It took seven of these robes to finish the coat. We had planned to send out two hunting parties today, but it rained so much that we postponed it. Nothing noteworthy happened today.
The implyments used by the Chinnooks Clatsops Cuthlahmahs &c in hunting are the gun the bow & arrow, deadfalls, pitts, snares, and spears or gigs; their guns are usually of an inferior quality being oald refuse American & brittish Musquits which have been repared for this trade. there are some very good peices among them, but they are invariably in bad order; they apear not to have been long enouh accustomed to fire arms to understand the management of them. they have no rifles. Their guns and amunition they reserve for the Elk, deer and bear, of the two last however there are but few in their neighbourhood. they keep their powder in small japaned tin flasks which they obtain with their amunition from the traders; when they happen to have no ball or shot, they substitute gravel or peices of potmettal, and are insensible of the damage done thereby to their guns. The bow and arrow is the most common instrument among them, every man being furnished with them whether he has a gun or not; this instrument is imployed indiscriminately in hunting every species of anamal on which they subsist. Their bows are extreamly neat and very elastic, they are about two and a half feet in length, and two inches in width in the center, thence tapering graduly to the extremities where they are half an inch wide they are very flat and thin, formed of the heart of the arbor vita or white cedar, the back of the bow being thickly covered with sinews of the Elk laid on with a gleue which they make from the sturgeon; the string is made of sinues of the Elk also. the arrow is formed of two parts usually tho sometime entire; those formed of two parts are unequally divided that part on which the feathers are placed occupyes four fifths of it's length and is formed of light white pine reather larger than a swan's quill, in the lower extremity of this is a circular mortice secured by sinues roled arround it; this mortice receives the one end of the 2nd part which is of a smaller size than the first and about five inches long, in the end of this the barb is fixed and confined with sinue, this barb is either stone, iron or copper, if metal in this form forming at it's point a greater angle than those of any other Indians I have observed. the shorter part of the arrow is of hearder wood as are also the whole of the arrow when it is of one piece only. as these people live in a country abounding in ponds lakes &c and frequently hunt in their canoes and shoot at fowl and other anamals where the arrow missing its object would be lost in the water they are constructed in the manner just discribed in order to make them float should they fall in the water, and consequently can again he recovered by the hunter; the quiver is usually the skin of a young bear or that of a wolf invariably open at the side in stead of the end as the quivers of other Indians generally are; this construction appears to answer better for the canoe than if they were open at the end only. maney of the Elk we have killed since we have been here, have been wounded with these arrows, the short piece with the barb remaining in the animal and grown up in the flesh.—the deadfalls and snares are employed in taking the wolf the raccoon and fox of which there are a few only. the spear or gig is used to take the sea otter, the common otter, spuck, and beaver. their gig consists of two points or barbs and are the same in their construction as those discribed before as being common among the Indians on the upper part of this river. their pits are employed in taking the Elk, and of course are large and deep, some of them a cube of 12 or 14 feet. these are usually placed by the side of a large fallen tree which as well as the pit lye across the toads frequented by the Elk. these pitts are disguised with the slender boughs of trees and moss; the unwary Elk in passing the tree precipitates himself into the pitt which is sufficiently deep to prevent his escape, and is thus taken.
The tools used by the Chinooks, Clatsops, Cuthlahmahs, and others for hunting include guns, bows and arrows, deadfalls, pits, snares, and spears or gigs. Their guns are typically of low quality, made from old, discarded American and British muskets that have been repaired for trade. While some are decent pieces, most are in poor condition; they seem not to have had enough experience with firearms to handle them well. They do not have rifles. They save their guns and ammunition for hunting elk, deer, and bear, although there are few of the latter two near them. They keep their gunpowder in small tin flasks, which are painted and obtained along with their ammunition from traders; when they run out of bullets or shot, they use gravel or pieces of metal instead and are unaware of the damage it does to their guns. The bow and arrow is the most common hunting tool among them, with every man having one regardless of whether he owns a gun. This tool is used for hunting all the animals they rely on for food. Their bows are very well-made and elastic, about two and a half feet long and two inches wide in the center, tapering gradually to half an inch at the ends. They are flat and thin, made from the heart of the arborvitae or white cedar, with the back thickly covered in elk sinew glued on with a mixture they make from sturgeon. The string is also made of elk sinew. The arrow consists of two parts, although sometimes it is made from a single piece; the two-part arrows have a larger section for the feathers, which takes up four-fifths of its length and is made from lightweight white pine, slightly thicker than a swan's quill. The lower end has a circular socket secured with sinew, which holds the smaller, five-inch long second part, into which the barb is fixed and secured with sinew. This barb can be made of stone, iron, or copper and is designed to form a sharper angle than those of other tribes I have observed. The shorter part of the arrow is made of harder wood, as is the single-piece arrow. Since these people live in an area abundant with ponds and lakes, and often hunt from their canoes at birds and other animals, their arrows are designed to float if they miss their target and fall into the water, making them recoverable. The quiver is typically made from the skin of a young bear or wolf and is always open on the side instead of at the end, as quivers of other tribes usually are; this design suits canoe hunting better than if it were only open at the end. Many of the elk we've killed since arriving here have been wounded by these arrows, with the shorter barb piece remaining inside the animal and eventually becoming encased in the flesh. Deadfalls and snares are used to catch wolves, raccoons, and foxes, but there are only a few of these animals. The spear or gig is used to catch sea otters, common otters, spucks, and beavers. Their gigs have two points or barbs and are constructed similarly to those described earlier as being common among the tribes in the upper part of this river. Their pits are built for taking elk, typically large and deep, some measuring a cube of 12 or 14 feet. These are usually positioned next to a large fallen tree, which, along with the pit, lies across the trails frequented by elk. The pits are concealed with slender tree branches and moss; an unsuspecting elk, while crossing the tree, inadvertently falls into the pit, which is deep enough to prevent its escape, resulting in its capture.
[Clark, January 15, 1806]
Friday 15th of January 1806 Capt. Lewis had a large Coat finished made of the Skins of the tiger Cat, and those of the Small animal about the Size of Small Cat not known to me; those Skins were precured from the Indians who had previously dressed them and formed them into robes; it took Seven of those robes to Complete the Coat. no occurrence worthey of remark took place. rained hard all day. The imployments used by the Chinnooks Clatsops, Cath lah mahs Kil a mox &c. in hunting are the gun the bow & arrow, dead falls, Pitts, Snares, and Spears or gigs; their guns are usially of an inferior quallity being old refuse american or brittish muskets which have been repared for this trade there are Some verry good pieces among them, but they are invariably in bad order they appear not to be long enough acquainted with fire arms to understand the management of them. They have no rifles. Their guns and amunition they reserve for the Elk, Deer, and Bear, of the two last however there are but fiew in their neighbourhoods. they keep their powder in Small japaned tin flasks which they obtain with their amunition from the traders; when they happen to have no Ball or Shot they Substitute Gravel and are insenceable of the dammage done thereby to their Guns.
Friday, January 15, 1806: Captain Lewis had a large coat made from the skins of a tiger cat and a smaller animal about the size of a small cat, which I'm not familiar with. These skins were obtained from the Indians, who had previously tanned them and turned them into robes; it took seven of those robes to complete the coat. Nothing noteworthy happened today. It rained heavily all day. The Chinooks, Clatsops, Cathlahmahs, Kilamox, etc., use guns, bows and arrows, deadfalls, pits, snares, and spears for hunting. Their guns are usually of poor quality, consisting of old, discarded American or British muskets that have been repaired for trade. While there are some very good pieces among them, they are often in bad condition, as they don't seem to have had much experience with firearms to know how to use them properly. They don’t have rifles. They reserve their guns and ammunition for elk, deer, and bear, although there are only a few of the latter two in their area. They keep their powder in small, japanned tin flasks that they get from traders along with their ammunition. When they run out of balls or shot, they use gravel instead and are completely unaware of the damage it causes to their guns.
The Bow and arrow is the most common instrement among them, every man being furnished with them whether he has a gun or not, this instrement is imployed indiscreminately in hunting every Species of animal on which they Subsist, Their bows are extreemly meet neat and very elastic, they are about two feet Six inches long and two inches wide in the Center, thence tapering gradually to the extremities, where they ar 3/4 of an Inch wide, they are very flat and thin, formed of the heart of the arbor vita or white Cedar, the back of the Bow being thickly Covered with Sinues of the Elk laid on with a Gleue which they make from the Sturgeon; the String is made of the Sinues of the Elk also, the arrow is formed of two parts usually tho Sometimes entire; those formed of 2 parts are uneaquilly devided, the part on which the feathers are placed occupie 4/5 of it's length and is formed of light white pine rather larger than a Swans quill, in the lower extremity of this is a Circular mortice Secured by Sinues raped around it; this mortice recives the one end of the 2d part which is of Smaller Size than the first and about five inches long, in the end of this the barb is fixed and Confined with Sinues, the berb is either Iron Copper or Stone—in this form forming at its point a greater angle than those of any other Indians I have observed. The Shorter part of the arrow is of harder wood, as are also the whole of the arrow where it is of one piece only. as these people live in a Countrey abounding in Ponds lakes &c. and frequently hunt in their Canoes and Shoot at fowls and other animals where the arrow missing its object would be lost in the water they are constructed in the Manner just discribed in order to make them flote Should they fall in the water, and Consequently Can again be recovered by the hunter; the quiver is useally the Skin of a young bear or that of a wolf invariably open at the Side in Sted of the end, as the quiver of other Indians generally are, this Construction appears to answer better for the Canoe, than if they were open at the end only. maney of the Elk which our hunters have killd. Sence we have been here have been wounded with those arrows, the Short piece with the barbe remaining in the Animal and grown up in the flesh.—the Deadfalls & Snares are employd in takeing the Wolf, the racoon and fox of which there are a fiew. the Spear or gig is used to take the Sea otter, Spuck, & Beaver. The gig consists of two points or birbs and are the Same in their Construction as those which are Common among the Indians on the upper part of this river and before discribed. Their pitts are employed in takeing the Elk, and of Course are large and Deep, Some of them a Cube of 12 or 14 feet, those ar commonly placed by the Side of a large fallen tree which as well as the pitt lie across the roads frequented by the Elk, these pitts are disguised with the Slender bows of trees & moss; the unwarry Elk in passing the tree precipates himself into the Pitt which is Sufficiently deep to prevent his escape.-
The bow and arrow are the most common tools among them, with every man equipped with them whether he has a gun or not. These tools are used indiscriminately to hunt every type of animal they rely on for food. Their bows are extremely neat and very elastic, measuring about two feet six inches long and two inches wide at the center, tapering gradually to the ends, where they are three-quarters of an inch wide. They are flat and thin, made from the heart of the arbor vitae or white cedar. The back of the bow is thickly covered with elk sinews glued on with a substance they make from sturgeon. The string is also made from elk sinews. The arrow consists of two parts, although sometimes it’s made as a single piece. The part where the feathers are attached makes up four-fifths of its length and is made of lightweight white pine, slightly larger than a swan's quill. The lower end features a circular mortise secured with sinews wrapped around it; this mortise receives the end of the second part, which is smaller in size and about five inches long. The barb is fitted and secured with sinews, and it can be made of iron, copper, or stone—forming a sharper angle at its point than the arrows of any other Native Americans I have seen. The shorter part of the arrow is made of harder wood, as is the entire arrow if it is made from one piece. Since these people live in a region rich with ponds, lakes, etc., and often hunt from their canoes, shooting at birds and other animals where an arrow missing its target would be lost in the water, they are designed as described to make them float if they fall in, allowing hunters to recover them. The quiver is typically made from the skin of a young bear or a wolf, always open on the side instead of at the end, as is common for the quivers of other Native Americans. This design seems to work better for canoes than being open only at the end. Many of the elk that our hunters have killed since we arrived have been wounded with these arrows, with the shorter piece and barb remaining embedded in the animal and becoming part of its flesh. Deadfalls and snares are used to catch wolves, raccoons, and a few foxes. A spear or gig is used to catch sea otters, spuck, and beavers. The gig has two points or barbs, constructed similarly to those commonly found among the Native Americans upstream from this river that I previously described. Their pits are used to capture elk and, understandably, are large and deep, some measuring 12 to 14 feet in cube dimensions. These pits are typically placed next to large fallen trees, carefully disguised with slender tree branches and moss; the unsuspecting elk passing by the tree falls into the pit, which is deep enough to prevent their escape.
[Lewis, January 16, 1806]
Friday January 16th 1806. This evening we finished curing the meat. no occurrence worthy of relation took place today. we have plenty of Elk beef for the present and a little salt, our houses dry and comfortable, and having made up our minds to remain until the 1st of April, every one appears content with his situation and his fare. it is true that we could even travel now on our return as far as the timbered country reaches, or to the falls of the river; but further it would be madness for us to attempt to proceede untill April, as the indians inform us that the snows lye knee deep in the plains of Columbia during the winter, and in these plains we could scarcely get as much fuel of any kind as would cook our provision as we descended the river; and even were we happyly over these plains and again in the woody country at the foot of the Rocky Mountains we could not possibly pass that immence barrier of mountains on which the snows ly in winter to the debth in many places of 20 feet; in short the Indians inform us that they are impracticable untill about the 1st of June, at which time even there is an abundance of snow but a scanty subsistence may be obtained for the horses.—we should not therefore forward ourselves on our homeward journey by reaching the rocky mountains early than the 1st of June, which we can easily effect by seting out from hence on the 1st of April.
Friday, January 16, 1806. This evening, we finished curing the meat. Nothing noteworthy happened today. We have plenty of elk meat for now and a little salt, our houses are dry and comfortable, and since we've decided to stay until April 1st, everyone seems satisfied with their situation and food. It's true that we could travel back now as far as the timbered areas or to the river's falls; however, it would be foolish to try to continue beyond that until April, since the locals tell us that the snow is knee-deep in the Columbia plains during winter. In those plains, we could hardly find enough fuel to cook our food as we descend the river. Even if we manage to get past those plains and reach the wooded area at the foot of the Rockies, we wouldn't be able to cross that massive mountain range, where the snow can reach depths of 20 feet in many places during winter. The locals inform us that it's impossible to navigate until about June 1st; even then, there's a lot of snow, but very little food for the horses. Therefore, we shouldn't push ourselves on our way home to reach the Rocky Mountains any sooner than June 1st, which we can easily manage by leaving here on April 1st.
The Clatsops Chinnooks &c. in fishing employ the common streight net, the scooping or diping net with a long handle, the gig, and the hook and line. the common net is of different lengths and debths usually employed in taking the sammon, Carr and trout in the inlets among the marshey grounds and the mouths of deep creeks. the skiming or scooping net to take small fish in the spring and summer season; the gig and hook are employed indiscriminately at all seasons in taking such fish as they can procure by their means. their nets and fishing lines are made of the silk-grass or white cedar bark; and their hooks are generally of European manufactary, tho before the whites visited them they made hooks of bone and other substances formed in the following manner A C, and C. B. are two small pieces of bone about the size of a strong twine, these are flattened and leveled off of their extremities near C. where they are firmly attatched together with sinues and covered with rosin. C A. is reduced to a sharp point at A where it is also bent in a little; C B. is attatched to the line, for about half it's length at the upper extremity B. the whole forming two sides of an accute angled triangle.
The Clatsop and Chinook tribes use various fishing methods, including the common straight net, the scooping or dipping net with a long handle, the gig, and the hook and line. The common net comes in different lengths and depths, typically used to catch salmon, carp, and trout in the inlets among the marshy areas and the mouths of deep creeks. The scooping net is used to catch small fish during the spring and summer. The gig and hook are used year-round to catch whatever fish they can find. Their nets and fishing lines are made from silk grass or white cedar bark, while their hooks are usually from European manufacturers. However, before the arrival of Europeans, they made hooks from bone and other materials formed in a specific way. A and C are two small pieces of bone about the size of strong twine; these are flattened and smoothed out at their ends near C, where they are securely attached together with sinew and coated with rosin. CA is sharpened to a point at A, where it is also bent slightly; CB is connected to the line for about half its length at the upper end B. The whole structure forms two sides of an acute angled triangle.
[Clark, January 16, 1806]
Saturday 16th January 1806 This evening we finished cureing the meat. no occurrence worthey of relation took place to day. we have a plenty of Elk beef for the present and a little Salt, our houses dry and Comfortable, haveing made up our minds to Stay untill the 1st of April every one appears contented with his Situation, and his fair. it is true we Could travel even now on our return as far as the timbered Country reaches, or to the falls of the river, but further it would be madness for us to attempt to proceed untill april, as the indians inform us that the Snows lyes knee deep in the Columbian Plains dureing the winter, and in those planes we could not git as much wood as would Cook our provisions untill the drift wood comes down in the Spring and lodges on the Shore &c. and even were we happily over those plains and in the woodey countrey at the foot of the rockey mountains, we could not possibly pass that emence bearier of mountains on which the Snow lyes in winter to the debth in maney placs of 20 feet; in Short the Indians tell us they impassable untill about the 1s of June, at which time even then is an abundance of snow but a Scanty Subsistance may be had for the horses—we Should not foward our homeward journey any by reaching the Rocky mountains earlier than the 1st of June which we can effect by Setting out from hence by the 1st of April
Saturday, January 16, 1806 This evening we finished curing the meat. Nothing noteworthy happened today. We have plenty of elk beef for now and a little salt. Our homes are dry and comfortable, and we’ve decided to stay until April 1st. Everyone seems content with their situation and their food. It’s true we could travel back now as far as the timbered area or to the falls of the river, but it would be madness to try to go further until April. The Indians tell us that the snow is knee-deep in the Columbia Plains during winter, and in those plains, we couldn’t get enough wood to cook our food until the driftwood arrives in the spring and washes up on the shore. Even if we made it past those plains and into the wooded area at the base of the Rocky Mountains, we couldn’t possibly cross that massive barrier of mountains where the snow reaches depths of 20 feet in many places during winter. In short, the Indians say they are impassable until around June 1st. Even then, there’s still a lot of snow, but there’s only a little sustenance for the horses. We shouldn't try to start our journey home any sooner than reaching the Rocky Mountains by June 1st, which we can do if we leave here by April 1st.
The Clatsops, Chinnooks &c. in fishing employ the Common Streight net, the Scooping or dipping net with a long handle, the gig, and the hook and line. the Common nets are of different lengths and debths usually employd in takeing the Salmon, Carr and trout in the inlets among the marshey grounds and the mouths of deep Creeks,—the Skiming or scooping nets to take Smaller fish in the Spring and Summer Season; the gig and hook are employed indiscreminately at all Seasons in takeing Such fish as they Can precure by these means. their nets and fishing lines are made of the Silk Grass or white Cedar bark; and their hooks are generally of European manufactory, tho before the whites visited them they made their Hooks of bone and other Substances formed in the following manner A C and B C are two Small pieces of bone about the Size of a Strong twine, these are flattened & beaveled off to their extremites at C, where they are firmley attached together and Covered with rozin C A is reduced to a Sharp point at A where it is also bent in a little; C B is attached to the line, at the upper extremity B. the whole forming two Sides of an accute angled triangle. the line has a loop at D which it is anexed to a longer line and taken off at pleasure. Those Hooks are yet common among the nativs on the upper parts of the Columbia river for to Catch fish in Deep places.
The Clatsops, Chinooks, etc. use the Common Straight net for fishing, along with the scooping or dipping net with a long handle, the gig, and the hook and line. The common nets come in different lengths and depths, usually used for catching salmon, carp, and trout in the inlets among the marshy grounds and at the mouths of deep creeks. The scooping nets are used to catch smaller fish in the spring and summer seasons; the gig and hook are used indiscriminately at all times to catch whatever fish they can using these methods. Their nets and fishing lines are made from silk grass or white cedar bark, and their hooks are usually from European manufacturers. Before the whites came, they made their hooks from bone and other materials formed like this: A and B are two small pieces of bone about the size of strong twine, flattened and beveled off at their ends at C, where they are firmly attached together and covered with rosin. A is pointed at A and bent slightly; B is attached to the line at the upper end B. This whole structure forms two sides of an acute-angled triangle. The line has a loop at D, which is attached to a longer line and can be removed as needed. These hooks are still common among the natives in the upper parts of the Columbia River for catching fish in deep water.
[Lewis, January 17, 1806]
Saturday January 17th 1806 This morning we were visited by Comowool and 7 of the Clatsops our nearest neighbours, who left us again in the evening. They brought with them some roots and buries for sale, of which however they disposed of but very few as they asked for them such prices as our stock in trade would not license us in giving. the Chief Comowool gave us some roots and buries for which we gave him in return a mockerson awl and some thread; the latter he wished for the purpose of making a skiming net. one of the party was dressed in three very eligant Sea Otter skins which we much wanted; for these we offered him many articles but he would not dispose of them for any other consideration but blue beads, of these we had only six fathoms left, which being 4 less than his price for each skin he would not exchange nor would a knife or an equivalent in beads of any other colour answer his purposes, these coarse blue beads are their favorite merchandiz, and are called by them tia Commashuck or Chiefs beads. the best wampum is not so much esteemed by them as the most inferior beads. Sent Coalter out to hunt this morning, he shortly after returned with a deer, venison is a rarity with us we have had none for some weeks. Drewyer also set out on a hunting excertion and took one man with him. he intends both to hunt the Elk and trap the beaver.
Saturday, January 17th, 1806 This morning, we were visited by Comowool and seven of the Clatsops, our closest neighbors, who left us again in the evening. They brought some roots and berries to sell, but they managed to sell very few because their prices were too high for what we could offer. Chief Comowool gave us some roots and berries, and in return, we gave him a mockerson awl and some thread; he wanted the thread to make a skimming net. One of the group was dressed in three very elegant sea otter skins, which we really wanted. We offered him many items for these, but he would only trade them for blue beads. We only had six fathoms left, which was four fathoms short of what he wanted for each skin, so he wouldn't make the exchange. A knife or beads of any other color didn't meet his requirements either. These coarse blue beads are their favorite merchandise and are called tia Commashuck or Chiefs beads. They value these inferior beads more than even the best wampum. I sent Coalter out to hunt this morning, and he soon returned with a deer; venison has been rare for us, as we haven't had any for weeks. Drewyer also went out to hunt, taking one man with him. He plans to hunt elk and trap beaver.
The Culinary articles of the Indians in our neighbourhood consist of wooden bowls or throughs, baskets, wooden spoons and woden scures or spits. Their wooden bowls and troughs are of different forms and sizes, and most generally dug out of a solid piece; they are ither round or simi globular, in the form of a canoe, cubic, and cubic at top terminating in a globe at bottom; these are extreemly well executed and many of them neatly carved the larger vessels with hand-holes to them; in these vessels they boil their fish or flesh by means of hot stones which they immerce in the water with the article to be boiled. they also render the oil of fish or other anamals in the same manner. their baskets are formed of cedar bark and beargrass so closely interwoven with the fingers that they are watertight without the aid of gum or rosin; some of these are highly ornamented with strans of beargrass which they dye of several colours and interweave in a great variety of figures; this serves them the double perpose of holding their water or wearing on their heads; and are of different capacites from that of the smallest cup to five or six gallons; they are generally of a conic form or reather the segment of a cone of which the smaller end forms the base or bottom of the basket. these they make very expediciously and dispose off for a mear trifle. it is for the construction of these baskets that the beargrass becomes an article of traffic among the natives this grass grows only on their high mountains near the snowey region; the blade is about 3/8 of an inch wide and 2 feet long smoth pliant and strong; the young blades which are white from not being exposed to the sun or air, are those most commonly employed, particularly in their neatest work. Their spoons are not remarkable nor abundant, they are generally large and the bole brawd. their meat is roasted with a sharp scure, one end of which is incerted in the meat with the other is set erect in the ground. the spit for roasting fish has it's upper extremity split, and between it's limbs the center of the fish is inscerted with it's head downwards and the tale and extremities of the scure secured with a string, the sides of the fish, which was in the first instance split on the back, are expanded by means of small splinters of wood which extend crosswise the fish. a small mat of rushes or flags is the usual plate or dish on which their fish, flesh, roots or burries are served. they make a number of bags and baskets not watertight of cedar bark, silk-grass, rushes, flags and common coarse sedge. in these they secure their dryed fish, rooots, buries, &c.
The cooking tools of the Indigenous people in our area include wooden bowls and troughs, baskets, wooden spoons, and wooden skewers or spits. Their wooden bowls and troughs come in various shapes and sizes, mostly carved from a single piece; they are either round or somewhat globular, shaped like a canoe, cubic, or cubic on top tapering into a globe at the bottom. These are extremely well-made, and many are intricately carved, with larger vessels featuring hand-holes. They boil fish or meat by using hot stones, which they immerse in the water along with the food. They also render oil from fish or other animals the same way. Their baskets are crafted from cedar bark and beargrass, tightly woven by hand so they are watertight without any gum or rosin; some are beautifully decorated with dyed strands of beargrass, woven into various designs. These baskets serve dual purposes: for carrying water and as headgear, varying in size from small cups to five or six gallons. They usually have a conical shape, resembling a segment of a cone, with the smaller end as the base or bottom. They create these quickly and sell them for just a small amount. The beargrass used for making these baskets has become a trade item among the natives, as it only grows on the high mountains near the snowy regions. The blades are about 3/8 of an inch wide and 2 feet long, smooth, flexible, and strong. The young blades, which are white because they haven't been exposed to the sun or air, are the ones most often used, especially in their finest work. Their spoons aren't particularly special or numerous; they are generally large with a broad bowl. They roast meat with a sharp skewer, one end inserted into the meat while the other is set upright in the ground. The skewer for roasting fish is split at the top, and the fish is inserted between the prongs with the head down, tying the tail and ends securely with string. The sides of the fish, initially split down the back, are held open with small wooden splinters crossing over. A small mat made of rushes or flags usually serves as the plate or dish for their fish, meat, roots, or berries. They also make several non-watertight bags and baskets from cedar bark, silk-grass, rushes, flags, and coarse sedge to store their dried fish, roots, berries, etc.
[Clark, January 17, 1806]
Sunday 17th January 1806 This morning we were visited by Comowool and 7 of the Clatsops our nearest neighbours, who left us again in the evening. They brought with them Some roots and beries for Sale, of which however they disposed of very fiew as they asked for them Such prices as our Stock in trade would not licence us in giveing. The Chief Comowool gave us Some roots and berries, for which we gave him in return a mockerson awl and Some thread; the latter he wished for the purpose of makeing a Skiming Net. one of the party was dressed in three verry elegant Sea otter Skins which we much wanted; for these we offered him maney articles but he would not dispose of them for aney other Consideration but Blue beeds, of those we had only Six fathoms left, which being 4 less than his price for each Skin he would not exchange nor would a Knife or any other equivolent in beeds of aney other Colour answer his purpose; these Coarse blue beeds are their favourite merchandize and are Called by them Tia com ma shuck or Chief beeds, the best Wampom is not as much esteemed by them as the most indifferent beeds. Sent Colter out to hunt he Shortly after returned with a Deer, Venison is a rarity with us we have had none for Some weeks. Drewyer Set out on a hunting expedition one man went with him. he intends to hunt the Elk and trap the beaver.
Sunday, January 17, 1806 This morning, we were visited by Comowool and seven of the Clatsops, our closest neighbors, who left us again in the evening. They brought some roots and berries to sell, but they hardly sold any because they asked for prices that our stock in trade wouldn’t allow us to meet. Chief Comowool gifted us some roots and berries, and in return, we gave him a mockerson awl and some thread; he wanted the thread to make a skimming net. One of the party was dressed in three very nice sea otter skins that we really wanted. For those, we offered him many items, but he refused to trade them for anything except blue beads. We only had six fathoms left, which was four fewer than his price for each skin, so he wouldn’t make the exchange. A knife or any other form of beads in different colors wouldn’t satisfy his needs either; these coarse blue beads are their favorite merchandise and are called Tia com ma shuck, or chief beads. The best wampum isn’t valued by them as highly as even the most ordinary beads. I sent Colter out to hunt, and shortly after, he returned with a deer. Venison is rare for us; we haven’t had any for weeks. Drewyer set out on a hunting trip with one man accompanying him. He plans to hunt elk and trap beavers.
The Culianary articles of the Indians in our neighbourhood Consists of wooden bowls or troughs, Baskets, Shell and wooden Spoons and wooden Scures or Spits, their wooden Bowles and troughs are of different forms and Sizes, and most generally dug out of Solid piecies; they are either round, Square or in the form of a canoe; those are extreemly well executed and maney of them neetly covered, the larger vessels with handholes to them; in these vessels they boil their fish or flesh by means of hot Stones which they immerce in the water with the articles to be boiled. They also render the Oil of the fish, or other animals in the Same manner. Their baskets are formed of Cedar bark and bargrass So closely interwoven withe hands or fingers that they are watertight without the aid of gum or rozin; Some of those are highly ornimented with the Straps of bargrass which they dye of Several Colours and interweave in a great variety of figures; this Serves a double purpose of holding the Water or wareing on their heads; and are of different Capacities, from that of a Smallest Cup to five or Six gallons, they are generally of a Conic form or reather the Segment of a Cone of which the Smaller end forms the base or bottom of the basket. these they make verry expediciously and dispose of for a mear trifle. it is for the Construction of those baskets that Bargrass becoms an article of traffic among the nativs of the Columbia. this grass grows only on their mountains near the Snowey region; the blade is about 3/8 of an inch wide and 2 feet long Smothe plient & Strong; the young blades which are white from not being exposed to the Sun or air, are those which are most Commonly employ'd, particularly in their neatest work. Their wooden Spoons are not remarkable nor abundant, they are large & the bowls broad. their meat is roasted with a Sharp Scure, one end of which is incerted in the meat while the other is Set erect in the ground. The Spit for roasting fish has its upper extremity Split, and between its limbs the Center of the fish is incerted with its head downwards, and the tale and the extremities of the Scure Secured with a String, the Side of the fish, which was in the first instance Split in the back, are expanded by means of Small Splinters of wood which extend Crosswise the fish. a Small mat of rushes or flags is the usual plate, or Dish on which their fish, flesh, roots & berries are Served. they make a number of Bags and Baskets not water tight of Cedar bark Silk Grass, rushes, flags, and common Gorse Sedge-. in those they Secure their dried fish, roots berries &.-
The culinary items of the local Indigenous people include wooden bowls or troughs, baskets, shell and wooden spoons, and wooden skewers or spits. Their wooden bowls and troughs come in various shapes and sizes, typically carved from solid pieces of wood; they can be round, square, or canoe-shaped. These are beautifully crafted, and many are neatly covered with handholds for easier handling. They use these vessels to boil fish or meat by dropping hot stones into the water along with the food. They also extract oil from fish or other animals in a similar way. Their baskets are made from cedar bark and bulrush, intricately woven by hand to make them watertight without needing gum or resin. Some are elaborately decorated with dyed bulrush straps in various colors and woven into diverse patterns. These baskets serve dual purposes: holding water and being worn on their heads. They come in different sizes, from small cups to containers that hold five or six gallons, generally shaped like cones or segments of a cone, with the smaller end forming the base. They make these quickly and sell them for a mere pittance. Because of the construction of these baskets, bulrush becomes a trade item among the natives of the Columbia. This grass only grows on their mountains near the snowy regions; its blades are about 3/8 of an inch wide and 2 feet long, smooth, pliable, and strong. The young blades, which remain white from not being exposed to the sun or air, are the most commonly used, especially in their finest work. Their wooden spoons aren't particularly notable or abundant; they are large with broad bowls. They roast meat using a sharp skewer, one end inserted into the meat while the other end is planted upright in the ground. The spit for roasting fish is split at the top, allowing the center of the fish to be inserted head down and secured with twine at the tail and ends. The side of the fish, initially split down the back, is spread open with small wooden splinters that extend crosswise. A small mat made of rushes or flags typically serves as the plate or dish for their fish, meat, roots, and berries. They also create several bags and baskets that are not watertight, using cedar bark, silk grass, rushes, flags, and common gorse sedge, to store their dried fish, roots, and berries.
[Lewis, January 18, 1806]
Sunday January 18th 1806. Two of the Clatsops who were here yesterday returned today for a dog they had left; they remained with us a few hours and departed. no further occurrence worthy of relation took place. the men are still much engaged in dressing skins in order to cloath themselves and prepare for our homeward journey. The Clatsops Chinnooks &c construct their houses of timber altogether. they are from 14 to 20 feet wide and from 20 to 60 feet in length, and acommodate one or more families sometimes three or four families reside in the same room. thes houses are also divided by a partition of boards, but this happens only in the largest houses as the rooms are always large compared with the number of inhabitants. these houses are constructed in the following manner; two or more posts of split timber agreeably to the number of divisions or partitions are furst provided, these are sunk in the ground at one end and rise perpendicularly to the hight of 14 or 18 feet, the tops of them are hollowed in such manner as to receive the ends of a round beam of timber which reaches from one to the other, most commonly the whole length of the building, and forming the upper part of the roof; two other sets of posts and poles are now placed at proper distances on either side of the first, formed in a similar manner and parrallel to it; these last rise to the intended hight of the eves, which is usually about 5 feet. smaller sticks of timber are now provided and are placed by pares in the form of rafters, resting on, and reaching from the lower to the upper horizontal beam, to both of which they are attatched at either end with the cedar bark; two or three ranges of small poles are now placed horizontally on these rafters on each side of the roof and are secured likewise with strings of the Cedar bark. the ends sides and partitions are then formed with one range of wide boards of abut two inches thick, which are sunk in the ground a small distance at their lower ends and stand erect with their upper ends Taping on the outside of the eve poles and end rafters to which they are secured by an outer pole lying parallel with the eve poles and rafters being secured to them by chords of cedar bark which pass through wholes made in the boards at certain distances for that purpose; the rough roof is then covered with a double range of thin boards, and an aperture of 2 by 3 feet left in the center of the roof to permit the smoke to pass. these houses are sometimes sunk to the debth of 4 or 5 feet in which cace the eve of the house comes nearly to the surface of the earth. in the center of each room a space of six by eight feet square is sunk about twelve inches lower than the floor having it's sides secured with four sticks of squar timber, in this space they make their fire, their fuel being generally pine bark. mats are spread arround the fire on all sides, on these they set in the day and frequently sleep at night. on the inner side of the hose on two sides and sometimes on three, there is a range of upright peices about 4 feet removed from the wall; these are also sunk in the ground at their lower ends, and secured at top to the rafters, from these other peices ar extended horizontally to the wall and are secured in the usual method by bark to the upright peices which support the eve poles. on these short horizontal pieces of which there are sometimes two ranges one above the other, boards are laid, which either form ther beads, or shelves on which to put their goods and chattles of almost every discription. their uncured fish is hung on sticks in the smoke of their fires as is also the flesh of the Elk when they happen to be fortunate enough to procure it which is but seldom.
Sunday, January 18th, 1806. Two Clatsop individuals who were here yesterday came back today to retrieve a dog they had left behind; they stayed with us for a few hours and then left. Nothing else noteworthy happened. The men are still busy preparing skins to make clothing for themselves and get ready for our journey home. The Clatsops, Chinooks, etc., build their houses entirely out of timber. They range from 14 to 20 feet wide and from 20 to 60 feet long, accommodating one or more families, and sometimes three or four families live in the same room. These houses are also divided by wooden partitions, but that only happens in the largest houses since the rooms are always spacious compared to the number of inhabitants. The houses are built as follows: two or more posts of split timber are first set up based on the number of divisions or partitions needed; these posts are buried in the ground at one end and rise vertically to a height of 14 or 18 feet. The tops of these posts are hollowed out to hold the ends of a rounded timber beam that stretches from one post to the other, usually spanning the entire length of the building, creating the upper part of the roof. Two more sets of posts and poles are then placed at appropriate distances on either side of the first set, made in a similar fashion and parallel to it; these rise to the desired height of the eaves, which is typically about 5 feet. Smaller timber pieces are then used and arranged in pairs to form rafters, resting on and spanning between the lower and upper beams, with cedar bark securing them at both ends. Two or three rows of small poles are placed horizontally on these rafters on each side of the roof, secured with strings made from cedar bark. The ends, sides, and partitions are constructed with a single layer of wide boards about two inches thick, which are buried slightly in the ground at their lower ends and stand upright, with their upper ends tapering over the eave poles and end rafters, secured by an outer pole lying parallel to the eave poles and rafters. This outer pole is tied to them with cords of cedar bark that go through holes made in the boards at designated distances for that purpose. The rough roof is then covered with a double layer of thin boards, leaving a 2 by 3 feet opening in the center for smoke to escape. Sometimes these houses are built to a depth of 4 or 5 feet, so the eaves of the house come nearly to the surface of the earth. In the center of each room, there is a six by eight feet square area that is sunk about twelve inches lower than the floor, its sides supported by four sticks of square timber. This is where they make their fire, using pine bark for fuel. Mats are spread around the fire on all sides; they sit on these during the day and often sleep on them at night. On the inner sides of the house, on two sides and sometimes three, there is a row of vertical pieces about 4 feet away from the wall; these are also buried in the ground at their lower ends and secured at the top to the rafters. From these pieces, other pieces extend horizontally to the wall and are secured by bark to the vertical pieces that support the eave poles. On these horizontal pieces, which sometimes consist of two layers, boards are laid that either form their beds or shelves for storing their various possessions. Their uncured fish is hung on sticks in the smoke of their fires, as is the flesh of the elk, when they are fortunate enough to catch it, which is quite rare.
[Clark, January 18, 1806]
Monday 18th January 1806 Two of the Clatsops that were here yesterday returned to day for a Dog they had left; they remained with us a fiew hours and departed. no further accounts worthey of relation took place. the men are much engaged dressing Skins in order to Cloath themselves and prepare for the homeward journey.
Monday, January 18, 1806 Two of the Clatsops who were here yesterday returned today for a dog they had left; they stayed with us for a few hours and then left. No other notable events occurred. The men are busy processing skins to make clothes for themselves and get ready for the journey home.
The Clatsops Chinnooks &c. construct their Houses of timber altogether. they are from 14 to 20 feet wide, and from 20 to 60 feet in length, and accomodate one or more families Sometimes three or four families reside in the Same room. this house is also devided by petitions of Boards, but this happens only in the largest houses, as the rooms are always large Compared with the number of inhabitents. those houses are Constructed in the following manner; two or more posts of Split timber agreeably to the number of devisions or partitions are first provided, these are Sunk in the ground at one end and raised pirpindicular to the hight of 12 or 14 feet, the top of them are hollowed So as to recive the end of a round beem of timber which reaches from one to the other or the entire length of the house; and forming the ridge pole; two other Sets of posts and poles are then placed at proper distancies on either Side of the first, formed in a Similar manner and parrelal to it; those last rise to the intended hight of the eves, which is usially about 5 feet,—Smaller Sticks of timber is then previded and are placed by pears in the form of rafters, resting on, and reaching from the lower to the upper horizontial beam, to both of which they are atached at either end with the Cedar bark; two or 3 ranges of Small poles are then placed Horizontially on these rafters on each Side of the roof & are Secured likewise with Cedar bark. the ends, Sides, and partitions are then formed, with one range of wide boards of about 2 inches thick, which are Sunk in the ground a Small distance at their lower ends & Stands erect with their upper ends lapping on the out Side of the eve poles and end rafters to which they are Secured by a outer pole lyeing parrelal with the eve pole and rafters being Secured to them by Cords of Cedar bark which pass through wholes made in the bods at Certain distances for that purpose; the rough roof is then Covered with a double range of thin boards, and an aperture of 2 by 3 feet left in the Center of the roof to admit the Smoke to pass. These houses are commonly Sunk to the debth of 4 or 5 feet in which Case the eve of the house comes nearly to the Surface of the earth. in the Center of each room a Space of from 6 by 8 feet is Sunk about 12 inches lower than the Hoar haveing its Sides Secured by four thick boards or Squar pieces of timber, in this Space they make their fire, their fuel being generally dry pine Split Small which they perform with a peice of an Elks horn Sharpened at one end drove into the wood with a Stone. mats are Spred around the fire on all Sides, on these they Sit in the day and frequently Sleep at night. on the inner Side of the house on two Sides and Sometimes on three, there is a range of upright pieces about 4 feet removed from the wall; these are also Sunk in the ground at their lower end, and Secured at top to the rafters, from those, other pieces are extended horozontially to the wall and are Secured in the usial manner with bark to the upright pieces which Support the eve pole. on these Short horizontial peics of which there are Sometimes two ranges one above the other, boards are laid, which either form their beads, or Shelves on which to put their goods and Chattles, of almost every discription. their uncured fish is hung on Sticks in the Smoke of their fires as is also the flesh of the Elk when they happen to be fortunate enough to precure it which is but Seldom
The Clatsop and Chinook people build their houses entirely out of timber. They range from 14 to 20 feet wide and from 20 to 60 feet long, accommodating one or more families. Sometimes three or four families live in the same room. The house is also divided by partitions made of boards, but this occurs only in the largest houses, as the rooms are always large compared to the number of inhabitants. These houses are constructed as follows: two or more posts of split timber are provided according to the number of divisions or partitions. They are sunk into the ground at one end and raised vertically to a height of 12 or 14 feet. The tops are hollowed out to hold the ends of a round timber beam that stretches from one post to the other, forming the ridge pole. Two other sets of posts and poles are then placed at proper distances on either side of the first set and are made in a similar manner and parallel to it; these rise to the intended height of the eaves, which is usually about 5 feet. Smaller sticks of timber are provided and arranged in pairs like rafters, resting on and reaching from the lower to the upper horizontal beam, to which they are attached at both ends with cedar bark. Two or three rows of small poles are then laid horizontally on these rafters on each side of the roof and secured with cedar bark. The ends, sides, and partitions are formed with a row of wide boards about 2 inches thick, which are sunk a small distance into the ground at their lower ends and stand upright, with their upper ends overlapping the outside of the eave poles and end rafters, secured by an outer pole that lies parallel with the eave pole and rafters and is secured with cords of cedar bark that pass through holes made in the boards at specific distances for that purpose. The rough roof is then covered with a double layer of thin boards, leaving an opening of 2 by 3 feet in the center of the roof for smoke to escape. These houses are typically sunk 4 or 5 feet into the ground, so the eave of the house is nearly at the surface of the earth. In each room, a space of 6 by 8 feet is sunk about 12 inches lower than the floor, with its sides secured by four thick boards or square pieces of timber. In this space, they make their fire, using generally dry, small-split pine as fuel, which they create with a sharpened piece of elk horn driven into the wood with a stone. Mats are spread around the fire on all sides; they sit on these during the day and often sleep on them at night. On the inner side of the house, on two or sometimes three sides, there is a row of upright pieces about 4 feet away from the wall. These are also sunk into the ground at their lower ends and secured at the top to the rafters. From these, other pieces are extended horizontally to the wall and secured in the usual way with bark to the upright pieces that support the eave pole. On these short horizontal pieces, which sometimes have two rows, one above the other, boards are laid to form their beds or shelves for storing their goods and belongings of almost every type. Their uncured fish is hung on sticks in the smoke of their fires, as is also the flesh of the elk when they are fortunate enough to catch it, which is quite rare.
[Lewis, January 19, 1806]
Monday January 19th 1806. This morning sent out two parties of hunters, consisting of Collins and Willard whom we sent down the bay towards point Adams, and Labuish and Shannon whom we sent up Fort River; the fist by land and the latter by water. we were visited today by two Clatsop men and a woman who brought for sale some Sea Otter skins of which we purchased one, giving in exchange the remainder of our blue beads consisting of 6 fathoms and about the same quantity of small white beads and a knife. we also purchased a small quantity of train oil for a pair of Brass armbands and a hat for some fishinghooks. these hats are of their own manufactory and are composed of Cedar bark and bear grass interwoven with the fingers and ornimented with various colours and figures, they are nearly waterproof, light, and I am convinced are much more durable than either chip or straw. These hats form a small article of traffic with the Clatsops and Chinnooks who dispose of them to the whites. the form of the hat is that which was in vogue in the Ued States and great Britain in the years 1800 & 1801 with a high crown reather larger at the top than where it joins the brim; the brim narrow or about 2 or 21/2 inches.
Monday, January 19, 1806. This morning, we sent out two groups of hunters: Collins and Willard went down the bay towards Point Adams, while Labuish and Shannon headed up Fort River; the first group traveled by land and the latter by water. Today, we were visited by two Clatsop men and a woman who came to sell some sea otter skins. We bought one, exchanging the rest of our blue beads, which included 6 fathoms and about the same amount of small white beads, plus a knife. We also purchased a small quantity of train oil in exchange for a pair of brass armbands and a hat for some fishing hooks. These hats are made by them and are woven from cedar bark and bear grass, decorated with various colors and designs. They're nearly waterproof, lightweight, and I believe they're much more durable than either chip or straw hats. These hats are a small trade item with the Clatsops and Chinooks, who sell them to white settlers. The style of the hat is similar to what was popular in the United States and Great Britain in 1800 and 1801, featuring a high crown that’s slightly wider at the top than at the brim, which is narrow, about 2 to 2.5 inches.
Several families of these people usually reside together in the same room; they appear to be the father & mother and their sons with their son's wives and children; their provision seems to be in common and the greatest harmoney appears to exist among them. The old man is not always rispected as the head of the family, that duty most commonly devolves on one of the young men. They have seldom more than one wife, yet the plurality of wives is not denyed them by their customs. These families when ascociated form nations or bands of nations each acknoledging the authority of it's own chieftain who dose not appear to be heriditary, nor his power to extend further than a mear repremand for any improper act of an individual; the creation of a chief depends upon the upright deportment of the individual & his ability and disposition to render service to the community; and his authority or the deference paid him is in exact equilibrio with the popularity or voluntary esteem he has acquired among the individuals of his band or nation. Their laws like those of all uncivilized Indians consist of a set of customs which have grown out of their local situations. not being able to speak their language we have not been able to inform ourselves of the existence of any peculiar customs among them.
Several families of these people usually live together in the same room; they seem to include the father and mother, their sons, their sons' wives, and their children. Their resources appear to be shared, and there seems to be a great sense of harmony among them. The elder does not always command respect as the head of the family; that role often falls to one of the younger men. They rarely have more than one wife, but their customs don’t prohibit having multiple wives. When these families come together, they form nations or groups of nations, each recognizing the authority of its own chief, who does not seem to inherit the position, nor does his power extend beyond simply reprimanding someone for wrongdoing. A chief’s authority depends on the individual's good behavior and willingness to serve the community; his power and the respect he receives are directly linked to his popularity and the esteem he earns from his group. Their laws, much like those of all uncivilized peoples, consist of customs that have developed from their local circumstances. Since we are unable to speak their language, we have been unable to learn about any unique customs they may have.
[Clark, January 19, 1806]
Tuesday 19th of January 1806 This morning Sent out two parties of hunters, one party towards Point adams and the other party up Ne tel River by water. we were visited to day by two Clatsop men and a woman who brought for Sale Some Sea otter Skins of which we purchased one gave in exchange the remainder of our blue heeds Consisting of 6 fathoms, and the Same quantity of Small white beids and a knife. we also purchased a Small quantity of train oil for a par of Brass arm bands, and a hat for Som fishinghooks. these hats are of their own manufactory and are Composed of Cedar bark and bear grass interwoven with the fingers and ornimented with various Colours and figures, they are nearly water proof, light, and I am Convinced are much more dureable than either Chip or Straw,—These hats form a article of traffic with Clatsops an Chinnooks who dispose of them to the whites, the form of the Hats is that which was in voge in the U States and Great Britain in 1800 & 1801 with a high Crown rather larger at the top than where it joins the brim, the brim narrow about 2 or 21/2 inches.
Tuesday, January 19, 1806 This morning, we sent out two groups of hunters, one towards Point Adams and the other up the Ne Tel River by boat. Today, we were visited by two Clatsop men and a woman who came to sell some sea otter skins. We bought one and exchanged it for the rest of our blue beads, which were 6 fathoms, the same amount of small white beads, and a knife. We also bought a small quantity of train oil in exchange for a pair of brass arm bands and a hat for some fishing hooks. These hats are made by them and consist of cedar bark and bear grass woven by hand, decorated with various colors and designs. They are nearly waterproof, lightweight, and I’m convinced they are much more durable than either chip or straw. These hats are a trade item with the Clatsops and Chinooks, who sell them to the white settlers. The style of the hats was popular in the United States and Great Britain in 1800 and 1801, featuring a high crown that’s wider at the top than at the brim, which is narrow, about 2 or 2.5 inches wide.
Several families of those people usially reside together in the Same room; they appear to be the father mother with their Sons and their Sons wives and children; their provisions appears to be in common and the greatest harmoney appears to exist among them. the old man is not always respected as the head of the family that duty generally devolves on one of the young men. They have Sildom more than one wife, yet plurality of wives are not denyed them by their Customs. those families when associated form bands of nations each acknowledgeing the authority of its own Chieftains, who does not appear to be herititary, or has power to extend further than a mear repremand for any improper deportment of the indevidual; the Creation of a Chief depends upon the upright Conduct of the individual his abiltity and disposition to render Service to the Comunity, and his authority and the defference paid him is in extent equilibrio with the popolarity or volintary esteem he has acquired among the individuals of his band, or nation. Their Laws like all uncivilized Indians Consist of a Set of customs which has grown out of their local Situations. not being able to Speak their language we have not been able to inform ourselves of the existance of any peculiar Customs among them.
Several families of those people usually live together in the same room; they seem to consist of a father, mother, their sons, their sons' wives, and children. Their resources appear to be shared, and there seems to be a strong sense of harmony among them. The old man is not always respected as the head of the family; that role generally falls to one of the young men. They seldom have more than one wife, yet having multiple wives is not denied by their customs. When these families come together, they form groups of nations, each recognizing the authority of its own chiefs, who do not appear to be hereditary. Their power is limited to merely reprimanding any individual for improper behavior. The creation of a chief depends on the individual's good conduct, ability, and willingness to serve the community, with their authority and the respect they receive proportional to the popularity or voluntary esteem they have gained among the members of their group or nation. Their laws, like those of all uncivilized tribes, consist of a set of customs that have developed from their local situations. Since we are unable to speak their language, we have not been able to learn about any specific customs they may have.
[Lewis, January 20, 1806]
Tuesday January 20th 1806. Visited this morning by three Clatsops who remained with us all day; the object of their visit is mearly to smoke the pipe. on the morning of the eighteenth we issued 6 lbs. of jirked Elk pr. man, this evening the Sergt. repoted that it was all exhausted; the six lbs. have therefore lasted two days and a half only. at this rate our seven Elk will last us only 3 days longer, yet no one seems much concerned about the state of the stores; so much for habit. we have latterly so frequently had our stock of provisions reduced to a minimum and sometimes taken a small touch of fasting that three days full allowance excites no concern. In those cases our skill as hunters afford us some consolation, for if there is any game of any discription in our neighbourhood we can track it up and kill it. most of the party have become very expert with the rifle. The Indians who visited us today understood us sufficiently to inform us that the whites did not barter for the pounded fish; that it was purchased and consumed by the Clatsops, Chinnooks, Cathlahmah's and Skillutes. The native roots which furnish a considerable proportion of the subsistence of the indians in our neighbourhood are those of a species of Thistle, fern and rush; the Liquorice, and a small celindric root the top of which I have not yet seen, this last resembles the sweet pittatoe very much in it's flavor and consistency.
Tuesday, January 20th, 1806. This morning, we were visited by three Clatsops who stayed with us all day; their purpose for visiting was simply to smoke the pipe. On the morning of the eighteenth, we distributed 6 lbs. of jerked elk per man; this evening, the sergeant reported that it was all gone. So, that 6 lbs. lasted us only two and a half days. At this rate, our seven elk will last us just three more days, yet no one seems particularly worried about our supplies; such is habit. Recently, we've often had our food supplies reduced to a minimum and sometimes experienced a bit of fasting, so three days’ worth of food doesn’t raise any alarms. In those situations, our hunting skills give us some comfort, because if there's any game nearby, we can track and kill it. Most of the group has become quite skilled with the rifle. The Indians who visited us today were able to tell us that the whites didn't trade for the pounded fish; instead, it was bought and eaten by the Clatsops, Chinooks, Cathlahmahs, and Skillutes. The native roots that make up a significant part of the Indians' diet in our area include a type of thistle, fern, and rush, along with liquorice, and a small cylindrical root that I haven't seen the top of yet; this last one has a flavor and texture quite similar to sweet potato.
[Clark, January 20, 1806]
Wednesday 20th January 1806 Visited this morning by three Clapsots who remained with us all day; the object of their visit is mearly to Smoke the pipe. on the morning of the 18 inst. we issued 6 wt. of jurked meat pr. man, this evening the Serjt. reports that is all exhosted; the 6 w. have therefore lasted 2 days and a half only. at this rate our Seven Elk will only last us 3 days longer, yet no one appears much concerned about the State of the Stores; So much for habet. we have latterly so frequently had our Stock of provisions reduced to a minimum and Sometimes taken a Small tuck of fasting that 3 days full allowance exites no concern. In those Cases our Skill as hunters affords us Some Consolation, for if there is any game of any discription in our neighbourhood we can track it up and kill it. most of the party have become very expert with the rifle. The Indians who visit us to day understood us Sufficiently to inform us that the white who visit them did not barter for the pounded fish; that it was purchased and Consumed by the Clatsops, Chin nooks, Cath lah mahs and Skil lutes, and Kil a moxs.
Wednesday, January 20, 1806 This morning, we were visited by three Clatsops who stayed with us all day. The purpose of their visit was simply to smoke the pipe. On the morning of the 18th, we distributed 6 pounds of jerky per person, and this evening the Sergeant reported that it’s all gone; the 6 pounds lasted only two and a half days. At this rate, our seven elk will only last us three more days, yet no one seems too worried about the state of our supplies. So much for that. Recently, we’ve frequently found our stock of provisions reduced to a minimum and sometimes have gone for a small period of fasting, so three days of full rations doesn’t seem to raise any concern. In those instances, our skills as hunters provide some comfort, as if there’s any game of any kind in our area, we can track it down and hunt it. Most of the group has become quite skilled with the rifle. The Indians who visited us today understood enough to let us know that the white people who visit them don’t trade for the pounded fish; it’s purchased and consumed by the Clatsops, Chinooks, Cathlahmahs, Skillutes, and Kialamoxs.
The native roots which furnish a considerable proportion of the Subsistance of the indians in our neighbourhoodd are those of a Species of Thistle, fern, and rush; the Licquorice, and a Small celindric root the top of which I have not yet Seen, this last resembles the Sweet potato verry much in its flavour and Consistency.
The local plants that provide a significant amount of food for the Native Americans in our area include a type of thistle, ferns, and rushes; licorice; and a small cylindrical root that I haven't seen the top of yet, which tastes and feels very similar to sweet potato.
[Lewis, January 21, 1806]
Wednesday January 21st 1806. Two of the hunters Shannon & Labuish returned having killed three Elk. Ordered a party to go in quest of the meat early tomorrow morning and the hunters to return and continue the chase. the Indians left us about 12 O'Clk. The root of the thistle, called by the natives shan-ne-tahque is a perpendicular fusiform and possesses from two to four radicles; is from 9 to 15 Inces in length and about the size a mans thumb; the rhind somewhat rough and of a brown colour; the consistence when first taken from the earth is white and nearly as crisp as a carrot; when prepared for uce by the same process before discribed of the white bulb or pashshequo quawmash, it becomes black, and is more shugary than any fuit or root that I have met with in uce among the natives; the sweet is precisely that of the sugar in flavor; this root is sometimes eaten also when first taken from the ground without any preperation; but in this way is vastly in-ferior. it delights most in a deep rich dry lome which has a good mixture of sand. the stem of this plant is simple ascending celindric and hisped. the root leaves yet possess their virdure and are about half grown of a plale green. the cauline leaf as well as the stem of the last season are now dead, but in rispect to it's form &c. it is simple, crenate, & oblong, reather more obtuse at it's apex than at the base or insertion; it's margin armed with prickles while it's disks are hairy, it's insertion decurrent and position declining. the flower is also dry and mutilad. the pericarp seems much like that of the common thistle. it rises to the hight of from 3 to 4 feet.-
Wednesday, January 21st, 1806. Two of the hunters, Shannon and Labuish, returned after killing three elk. I ordered a team to go look for the meat early tomorrow morning, and the hunters will return to continue the chase. The Indians left us around 12 o'clock. The root of the thistle, called by the natives shan-ne-tahque, is a straight, spindle-shaped root and has from two to four small roots; it ranges from 9 to 15 inches long and is about the size of a man's thumb. The skin is somewhat rough and brown in color; the texture when freshly dug from the ground is white and almost as crisp as a carrot. When prepared for use by the same process described before for the white bulb, or pashshequo quawmash, it turns black and is sweeter than any fruit or root I've encountered among the natives; the sweetness is exactly like that of sugar. This root is sometimes eaten raw when first pulled from the ground, but it is vastly inferior this way. It thrives best in deep, rich, dry loam with a good mixture of sand. The stem of this plant is simple, upright, cylindrical, and covered in hairs. The root leaves still maintain their green color and are about halfway grown with a pale green hue. The stem leaves and last season's stem are now dead, but in terms of its shape, it is simple, notched, and elongated, being slightly more blunt at the tip than at the base. Its edges are armed with prickles, and its surfaces are hairy, with its attachment point being descending and leaning. The flower is also dry and damaged. The seed pod resembles that of the common thistle and reaches a height of about 3 to 4 feet.
[Clark, January 21, 1806]
Thursday 21st of January 1806 Two of the hunters Shannon & Labieche returned haveing killed three Elk, ordered a party to go in quest of the meat early tomorrow morning and the hunters to return and continue the chase-. the Indians left us about 12 oClock.
Thursday, January 21, 1806. Two of the hunters, Shannon and Labieche, returned after killing three elk. I ordered a team to go retrieve the meat early tomorrow morning, and the hunters will return and keep chasing. The Indians left us around 12 o'clock.
The root of the thistle called by the nativs Chan-ne-tak-que is pirpendicular and possesses from two to 4 radicles; is from 9 to 15 inches in length and is Commonly about the Size of a mans thum the rhine Somewhat rough and of a brown Colour; the Consistence when first taken from the earth is white and nearly as Crisp as a Carrot, when prepared for use by the Same process before discribed of the white bulb or gash she quo, qua-mosh, it becomes black and is more Sugary than any root I have met with among the nativs; the Sweet is prosisely that of the Sugar in flavor, this root is Sometimes eaten when first taken from the ground without any preperation, in this way it is well tasted but soon weathers and becoms hard and insipped. it delights most in a deep rich moist lome which has a good mixture of Sand—The Stems of this plant is Simple ascending celindric and hisped. the root leaves, posses their virdue and are about half grown of a deep Green. the Cauline leaf as well as the Stem of the last Season are now dead, but in respect to it's form &c. it is Simple Crenated and oblong, rather more obtuce at it's apex than the base or insertion, it's margin armed with prickles while it's disks are hairy, its insertion decurrent and position declineing. the flower is also dry and mutilated the pericarp seems much like that of the Common thistle it rises to the hight of from 3 to 4 feet.
The root of the thistle, known to the natives as Chan-ne-tak-que, is upright and has two to four roots; it measures between 9 to 15 inches long and is roughly the size of a man's thumb. The skin is somewhat rough and brown in color; when first pulled from the ground, it is white and almost as crisp as a carrot. When processed similarly to the white bulb or gash she quo, qua-mosh, it turns black and becomes sweeter than any root I've encountered among the natives; the sweetness has a flavor similar to sugar. This root is sometimes eaten raw right after being dug up; it tastes good but quickly becomes tough and bland. It thrives best in deep, rich, moist loam with a good mix of sand. The stems of this plant are simple, upright, cylindrical, and rough. The root leaves are about halfway grown and a deep green. The cauline leaf, as well as the stem from the previous season, is now dead, but regarding its shape, it is simple, scalloped, and elongated, with the tip being slightly more blunt than the base. Its edges are armed with prickles, and its disks are hairy, with its base extending down and tilting. The flower is also dry and damaged; the fruit looks much like that of the common thistle and can grow to a height of 3 to 4 feet.
[Lewis, January 22, 1806]
Thursday January 22nd 1806. The party sent for the meat this morning returned with it in the Evening; it was in very inferior order, in short the animals were poor. Reubin Fields also remained with the other hunters Shannon & Labuish our late supply of salt is out. we have not yet heared a sentence from the other two parties of hunter's who are below us towards Point Adams and the Praries.
Thursday, January 22, 1806. The group sent to get meat this morning came back in the evening; the quality was very poor—the animals were weak. Reubin Fields also stayed with the other hunters, Shannon and Labuish. Our recent supply of salt has run out. We haven't heard anything from the other two groups of hunters who are below us, heading toward Point Adams and the Prairies.
There are three species of fern in this neighbourhood the root one of which the natves eat; this grows very abundant in the open uplands and praries where the latter are not sandy and consist of deep loose rich black lome. the root is horizontal sometimes a little deverging or obliquely descending, frequently dividing itself as it procedes into two equal branches and shooting up a number of stems; it lies about 4 Inces beneath the surface of the earth. the root is celindric, with few or no radicles and from the size of a goose quill to that of a man's finger; the center of the root is divided into two equal parts by a strong flat & white ligament like a piece of thin tape on either side of this there is a white substance which when the root is roasted in the embers is much like wheat dough and not very unlike it in flavour, though it has also a pungency which becomes more visible after you have chewed it some little time; this pungency was disagreeable to me, but the natives eat it very voraciously and I have no doubt but it is a very nutricious food. the bark of the root is black, somewhat rough, thin and brittle, it easily seperates in flakes from the part which is eaten as dose also the internal liggament. this root perennil. in rich lands this plant rises to the hight of from 4 to five feet. the stem is smooth celindric, slightly groved on one side erect about half it's hight on the 2 first branches thence reclining backwards from the grooved side; it puts forth it's branches which are in reallyty long footstalks by pares from one side only and near the edges of the groove, these larger footstalks are also grooved cilindric and gradually tapering towards the extremity, puting forth alternate footstalks on either side of the grove near it's edge; these lesser footstalks the same in form as the first put forth from forty to fifty alternate pinate leaves which are sessile, horizontal, multipartite for half their length from the point of insertion and terminating in a long shaped apex, and are also revolute with the upper disk smoth and the lower slightly cottanny. these alternate leaves after proceeding half the length of the footstalk cease to be partite and assume the tongue like form altogether. this plant produces no flower or fruit whatever, is of a fine green colour in summer and a beautiful) plant. the top is annual and is of course dead at present.-
There are three species of fern in this area, one of which the locals eat. This fern grows abundantly in the open uplands and prairies where the soil is not sandy but consists of deep, loose, rich black loam. The root grows horizontally, sometimes diverging a bit or slanting downwards, often splitting into two equal branches and sending up several stems; it lies about 4 inches beneath the surface of the ground. The root is cylindrical, with few or no tiny roots, ranging in size from that of a goose quill to a man's finger. The center of the root is divided into two equal parts by a strong, flat, white ligament resembling a piece of thin tape. On either side of this is a white substance that, when roasted in the embers, is quite similar to wheat dough and has a somewhat similar flavor, although it also has a pungency that becomes more noticeable after chewing for a little while. This pungency was unpleasant to me, but the locals eat it eagerly, and I have no doubt it's very nutritious. The bark of the root is black, somewhat rough, thin, and brittle; it easily flakes off from the edible part, as does the inner ligament. This root is perennial. In rich soil, this plant can grow to a height of 4 to 5 feet. The stem is smooth, cylindrical, slightly grooved on one side, and stands upright for about half its height before reclining backward from the grooved side. It produces its branches, which are actually long footstalks, in pairs from one side only, near the edges of the groove. These larger footstalks are also grooved, cylindrical, and gradually taper toward the tip, with alternate footstalks emerging on either side of the groove near its edge. These smaller footstalks, which are shaped like the first, give rise to about forty to fifty alternate pinnate leaves that are sessile, horizontal, multipartite for half their length from the point of insertion, and taper into a long-shaped tip. They are also rolled back with a smooth upper surface and a slightly cottony lower surface. These alternate leaves, after extending halfway down the footstalk, stop being multipartite and take on a tongue-like shape entirely. This plant produces no flowers or fruit at all, is a lovely green color in summer, and is a beautiful plant. The top is annual and is, of course, dead at present.
[Clark, January 22, 1806]
Friday 22nd January 1806 The party Sent for the meat this morning returned with it in the evening; it was in verry inferior order, in Short the animals were pore. Rieuben Field Shannon and Labiech remained in the woods to hunt. our late Supply of Salt is out. we have not heard a word of the other hunters who are below us towards point adams and the Praries. Some rain this day at intervales
Friday, January 22, 1806 The group sent for the meat this morning returned with it in the evening; it was in really bad condition, in short, the animals were poor. Rueben Field, Shannon, and Labiech stayed in the woods to hunt. Our recent supply of salt is gone. We haven't heard anything from the other hunters who are down towards Point Adams and the Prairies. There was some rain today at intervals.
There are three Species of fern in this neighbourhood the root one of which the nativs eate; that of which the nativs eate produce no flowers whatever or fruit of a fine green Colour and the top is annual, and in Course dead at present.
There are three species of fern in this area, the root of which the locals eat; the type that the locals eat produces no flowers or fruit, has a nice green color, and the top is annual, but it's currently dead.
I observe no difference between the licorice of this Countrey and that Common to maney parts of the United States where it is sometimes Cultivated in our gardins-. this plant delights in a deep lose Sandy Soil; here it grows verry abundant and large; the nativs roste it in the embers and pound it Slightly with a Small Stick in order to make it Seperate more readily from the Strong liggaments which forms the center of the root; this they discard and chew and Swallow the ballance of the root; this last is filled with a number of thin membrencies like network, too tough to be masticated and which I find it necessary also to discard. This root when roasted possesses an agreeable flavour not unlike the Sweet potato. The root of the thistle (described yesterday) after undergoing the process of Sweting or bakeing in a kiln is Sometimes eaten with the train oil also, at other times pounded fine and mixed with Cold water, untill reduced to the Consistancy of Gruel; in this way I think it verry agreeable. but the most valuable of all their roots is foreign to this neighbourhood I mean the Wappetoe.
I see no difference between the licorice from this area and that commonly found in many parts of the United States, where it is occasionally grown in our gardens. This plant thrives in deep, loose sandy soil; here it grows very abundantly and large. The locals roast it in the embers and slightly pound it with a small stick to help it separate more easily from the tough fibers in the center of the root. They discard these fibers and chew and swallow the rest of the root. The remaining part is filled with thin membranes like a network, which are too tough to chew, so I find it necessary to discard those as well. When roasted, this root has a pleasant flavor that’s not unlike sweet potato. The root of the thistle (described yesterday), after being sweetened or baked in a kiln, is sometimes eaten with train oil; at other times, it is finely pounded and mixed with cold water until it reaches a gruel-like consistency. I find that quite agreeable. However, the most valuable root of all, the Wappetoe, is not native to this area.
The Wappetoe, or bulb of the Sagitifolia or common arrow head, which grows in great abundance in the marshey grounds of that butifull and fertile vally on the Columbia commenceing just above the quick Sand River and extending downwards for about 70 miles. this bulb forms a principal article of trafic between the inhabitents of the vally and those of their neighbourhood or Sea coast.
The Wappetoe, or bulb of the Sagitifolia, commonly known as the arrowhead, grows abundantly in the marshy areas of that beautiful and fertile valley on the Columbia, starting just above the quicksand river and extending about 70 miles downstream. This bulb is a major trade item between the valley's residents and those from nearby areas or the coast.
[Lewis, January 23, 1806]
Friday January 23rd 1806. This morning dispatched Howard and Warner to the Camp of the Saltmakes for a supply of salt. The men of the garison are still busily employed in dressing Elk's skins for cloathing, they find great difficulty for the want of branes; we have not soap to supply the deficiency, nor can we procure ashes to make the lye; none of the pines which we use for fuel affords any ashes; extrawdinary as it may seem, the greene wood is consoomed without leaving the residium of a particle of ashes.
Friday, January 23rd, 1806. This morning I sent Howard and Warner to the Camp of the Saltmakers to get some salt. The men at the garrison are still hard at work preparing elk skins for clothing. They’re having a tough time because we’re short on brains; we don’t have any soap to cover the shortage, and we can’t get any ashes to make lye. None of the pines we use for fuel leave any ashes behind; surprisingly, the green wood burns up completely without leaving even a tiny bit of ash.
The root of the rush used by the natives is a sollid bulb about one inch in length and usually as thick as a man's thumb, of an ovate form depressed on two or more sides, covered with a thin smothe black rind. the pulp is white brittle and easily masticated either raw or roasted the latter is the way in which it is most usually prepared for uce. this root is reather insipid in point of flavour, it grows in greatest abundance along the sea coast in the sandy grounds and is most used by the Killamucks and those inhabiting the coast. each root sends up one stock only which is annual, the root being perenniel. the bulb is attatched to the bottom of the caulis or stem by a firm small and strong radicle of about one Inch long; this radicle is mearly the prolongation of the caulis and decends perpendicilarly; a little above the junction of this radicle with the caulis, the latter is surrounded in a whorl with a set of small radicles from 6 to 9 inches long which are obliquely descending. the caulis is celindric erect hollow and jointed, and is about the size or reather larger than the largest quill. it rises to the hight of 3 or 4 feet, not branching nor dose it either bear flower or seed that I can discover tho I am far from denying that it dose so sometimes, but I have not been able to discover it. the stem is rough like the sand rush and is much like it when green or in it's succulent state. at each joint it puts out from twenty to thirty long lineal stellate or radiate & horizontal leaves which surround the stem. above each joint about half an inch the stem is sheathed like the sand rush.
The root used by the natives is a solid bulb about one inch long and usually as thick as a man's thumb, shaped like an oval and flattened on two or more sides, covered with a thin, smooth black skin. The pulp is white, brittle, and easily chewed whether raw or roasted; the latter is the most common way it’s prepared for use. This root is quite bland in flavor, growing in abundance along the coastline in sandy areas, and is primarily used by the Killamucks and coastal residents. Each root sends up only one stem, which is annual, while the root itself is perennial. The bulb is attached to the base of the stem by a firm, small, strong root about one inch long; this root is just an extension of the stem that goes straight down. A little above the point where this root joins the stem, the latter is encircled in a whorl by a set of smaller roots that are 6 to 9 inches long and slanting downwards. The stem is cylindrical, upright, hollow, and jointed, about the size or even slightly larger than the largest quill. It can reach heights of 3 or 4 feet, does not branch, and I haven't seen it produce flowers or seeds, though I'm not ruling out that it does sometimes, as I just haven’t observed it. The stem is rough like the sand rush and resembles it when green or in its juicy state. At each joint, it produces about twenty to thirty long, linear, star-shaped, or radiate horizontal leaves that surround the stem. Just above each joint, about half an inch up, the stem is sheathed like the sand rush.
[Clark, January 23, 1806]
Saturday 23rd of January 1806 This morning dispatched Howard & Werner to the Camp of the Salt makers for a Supply of Salt. the men of the garrison are Still busily employed in dressing Elk Skins for cloathing, they fine great dificuelty for the want of branes; we have not Soap to Supply the deficiency, nor can we precure ashes to make the lye; none of the pine which we use for fuel afford any ashes; extrawdinary as it may seem, the green wood is cosumed without leaveing the risideum of a particle of ashes.-
Saturday, January 23, 1806 This morning, I sent Howard and Werner to the Salt Makers' Camp to get some salt. The garrison men are still busy preparing elk skins for clothing, but they're having a hard time because they lack brains. We have no soap to cover this shortage, nor can we get ashes to make lye; none of the pine we use for fuel produces any ashes. As strange as it may seem, the green wood burns completely without leaving any ash residue.
The root of the rush used by the nativs is a Solid bulb about one inch in length and usially as thick as a mans thumb, of an ovel form depressed on two or more Sides, covered with a thin black rine. the pulp is white brittle and easily masticated either raw or rosted, the latter is the way it is most commonly prepared for use. this root is reather insippid in point of flavour, it grows in the Greatest abundance along the Sea coast in the wet Sandy grounds and is most used by the Kil a mox and those inhabiting the Sea coast. each root Sends up its Stalk which is annual, the root being perennial. the bulb is atached to the bottom of the Stem by a firm Small and Strong radicle which is mearly the prolongation of the Stem which is hollow and jointed and is rather larger than the largest quill. it rises to the hight of 3 or 4 feet, not branching no does it either bear flower or Seed that I could discover tho I am far from denying that it does So Sometimes, and perhaps every year, but I have not been able to discover it, the Stem is rough like the Sand rush, and it's much like it when green, at each joint it puts out from 20 to 30 radiate & horizontal leaves which Surrounds the Stem. above each joint about half an inch the Stem is Shethed like the Sand rush.
The root of the rush used by the natives is a solid bulb about one inch long and usually as thick as a man's thumb, with an oval shape that is depressed on two or more sides, covered with a thin black rind. The pulp is white, brittle, and easy to chew either raw or roasted; the latter is the most common preparation method. This root is rather bland in flavor and grows abundantly along the coast in wet sandy areas, primarily used by the Kilamox and those living by the seaside. Each root sends up an annual stalk, while the root itself is perennial. The bulb is attached to the bottom of the stem by a firm, small, strong radicle, which is just an extension of the hollow and jointed stem that is larger than the biggest quill. It grows to a height of 3 to 4 feet, does not branch, and I couldn't find any flowers or seeds, though I don't deny that it might sometimes produce them, possibly every year, but I haven’t been able to observe it. The stem is rough like the sand rush and resembles it when green. At each joint, it produces 20 to 30 radiating and horizontal leaves that surround the stem. Above each joint, about half an inch, the stem is sheathed like the sand rush.
The instruments used by the nativs in digging their roots is a Strong Stick of three feet and a half long Sharpened at the lower end and its upper inserted into a part of an Elks or buck's horn which Serves as a handle; Standing transvirsely in the Stick—or it is in this form as thus A is the lower part which is a little hooked B is the upper part or handle of Horn.
The tools used by the natives for digging up their roots consist of a strong stick that is three and a half feet long, sharpened at one end. The other end is fitted with a piece of elk or buck horn, which serves as a handle. The design has a part that is slightly hooked at the bottom (A) and a horn handle at the top (B).
[Lewis, January 24, 1806]
Saturday January 24th 1806. Drewyer and Baptiest La Paage returned this morning in a large Canoe with Comowooll and six Clatsops. they brought two deer and the flesh of three Elk & one Elk's skin, having given the flesh of one other Elk which they killed and three Elk's skins to the Indians as the price of their assistance in transporting the ballance of the meat to the Fort; these Elk and deer were killed near point Adams and the Indians carryed them on their backs about six miles, before the waves were sufficiently low to permit their being taken on board their canoes. the Indians remained with us all day. The Indians witnissed Drewyer's shooting some of those Elk, which has given them a very exalted opinion of us as marksmen and the superior excellence of our rifles compared with their guns; this may probably be of service to us, as it will deter them from any acts of hostility if they have ever meditated any such. My Air-gun also astonishes them very much, they cannot comprehend it's shooting so often and without powder; and think that it is great medicine which comprehends every thing that is to them incomprehensible.
Saturday, January 24, 1806. Drewyer and Baptiste La Page returned this morning in a large canoe with Comowooll and six Clatsops. They brought two deer and the meat of three elk, along with one elk's skin, having given the meat from another elk they killed and three elk skins to the Indians as payment for their help in transporting the remaining meat to the fort. These elk and deer were killed near Point Adams, and the Indians carried them on their backs for about six miles before the waves were low enough to allow them to be loaded onto their canoes. The Indians stayed with us all day. They witnessed Drewyer's shooting of some of the elk, which has given them a very high opinion of us as marksmen and the superior quality of our rifles compared to their guns. This may benefit us, as it could discourage them from any hostile actions if they had ever considered such things. My air gun also amazes them; they can't understand how it can shoot so often and without powder, and they think it's great medicine, which encompasses everything they find incomprehensible.
I observe no difference between the liquorice of this country and that common to many parts of the United states where it is also sometimes cultivated in our gardens. this plant delights in a deep loose sandy soil; here it grows very abundant and large; the natives roast it in the embers and pound it slightly with a small stick in order to make it seperate more readily from the strong liggament which forms the center of the root; this the natives discard and chew and swallow the ballance of the root; this last is filled with a number of thin membrenacious lamela like net work, too tough to be masticated and which I find it necessary also to discard. this root when roasted possesses an agreeable flavour not unlike the sweet pittaitoe. beside the small celindric root mentioned on the 20th inst., they have also another about the same form size and appearance which they use much with the train oil, this root is usually boiled; to me it possesses a disagreeable bitterness. the top of this plant I have never yet seen. The root of the thistle after undergoing the prossess of sweating or baking in a kiln is sometimes eaten with the train oil also, and at other times pounded fine and mixed with could water untill reduced to the consistency of sagamity or indian mush; in this way I think it very agreeable. but the most valuable of all their roots is foreign to this neighbourhood I mean the Wappetoe, or the bulb of the Sagitifolia or common arrow head, which grows in great abundance in the marshey grounds of that beatifull and firtile valley on the Columbia commencing just above the entrance of Quicksand River, and extending downwards for about 70 Miles. this bulb forms a principal article of traffic between the inhabitants of the valley and those of this neighbourhood or sea coast. The instrument used by the natives in diging their roots is a strong stick of 31/2 feet long sharpened at the lower end and it's upper inscerted into a part of an Elks or buck's horn which serves as a handle, standing transversely with the stick or it is in this form A the lower point, B the upper part or handle.
I see no difference between the licorice in this country and that found in many parts of the United States where it’s also sometimes grown in our gardens. This plant thrives in deep, loose sandy soil; here it grows very abundantly and large. The locals roast it in the embers and pound it slightly with a small stick to make it separate more easily from the tough ligament at the center of the root. They discard this ligament and chew and swallow the rest of the root. The remaining part is filled with thin membranous layers like a network, which are too tough to chew, so I find it necessary to discard those as well. When roasted, this root has a pleasant flavor not unlike sweet potato. Besides the small cylindrical root mentioned on the 20th, they also have another root of similar shape, size, and appearance that they often use with train oil; this root is usually boiled and has a bitter taste that I find unpleasant. I have never seen the top of this plant. The root of the thistle, after going through the process of sweating or baking in a kiln, is sometimes eaten with train oil as well, and at other times it’s pounded fine and mixed with cold water until it reaches the consistency of sagamity or Indian mush; I find it quite agreeable this way. However, the most valuable of all their roots is not local; I mean the Wappetoe, or the bulb of the Sagittifolia, which grows abundantly in the marshy grounds of that beautiful and fertile valley on the Columbia, starting just above the entrance of Quicksand River and extending downwards for about 70 miles. This bulb is a major trade item between the valley's inhabitants and those from this coastal area. The tool the locals use to dig their roots is a sturdy stick about 3.5 feet long, sharpened at one end, with the other end fitted into a part of an elk or buck's horn that serves as a handle, positioned transversely to the stick, forming the shape of an A, with the lower point as B and the upper part as the handle.
[Clark, January 24, 1806]
Sunday 24th of January 1806 Drewyer and Bapteist laPage returned this morning in a large Canoe with Commowol and six Clatsops. they brought two Deer and three Elk and one elk Skin, haveing given the flesh of one other Elk they killed and three Elk skins to the Indians as the price of their assistance in transporting the ballance of the meat to the Fort; these Deer and Elk were killed near pt. Adams and those Indians Carried them on their Backs near 4 miles, before the waves were Sufficiently low to permit their being taken on board their Canoes. The indians remain'd with us all day. The Clapsots witnessed Drewyers Shooting Some of those Elk, which has given them a very exolted opinion of us as marksmen and the Superior excellency of our rifles Compared with their guns; this may probably be of service to us, as it will deter them from any acts of hostility if they have ever meditated any such.
Sunday, January 24, 1806. Drewyer and Baptiste LaPage returned this morning in a large canoe with Commowol and six Clatsops. They brought two deer, three elk, and one elk skin, having given the meat from another elk they killed and three elk skins to the Indians as payment for their help in transporting the remaining meat to the fort. These deer and elk were killed near Point Adams, and the Indians carried them on their backs for about four miles before the waves were low enough to take them aboard their canoes. The Indians stayed with us all day. The Clatsops witnessed Drewyer shooting some of those elk, which has given them a very high opinion of us as marksmen and the superior quality of our rifles compared to their guns. This may be beneficial for us, as it might discourage them from any hostile actions if they ever considered such things.
our air gun also astonishes them very much, they Cannot Comprehend its Shooting So often and without powder, and think that it is great medison which Comprehends every thing that is to them incomprehensible.
our air gun truly amazes them; they can't understand how it can shoot so often and without gunpowder, and they believe it to be some kind of miracle medicine that explains everything that's beyond their understanding.
The nativs of this neighbourhood ware no further Covering than a light roabe, their feet legs & every other part exposed to the frost Snow & ice &c.
The natives of this neighborhood wore no further covering than a light robe, their feet, legs, and every other part exposed to the frost, snow, and ice, etc.
[Lewis, January 25, 1806]
Sunday January 25th 1806. Commowooll and the Clatsops departed early this morning. At meridian Colter returned and repoted that his comrade hunter Willard had continued his hunt from point Adams towards the salt makers; and that they had killed only those two deer which the Indians brought yesterday. In the evening Collins one of the saltmakers returned and reported that they had mad about one bushel of salt & that himself and two others had hunted from the salt camp for five days without killing any thing and they had been obliged to subsist on some whale which they procured from the natives.
Sunday, January 25th, 1806. Commowooll and the Clatsops left early this morning. At noon, Colter came back and reported that his hunting partner, Willard, had continued his hunt from Point Adams towards the salt makers, and they had only killed the two deer that the Indians brought yesterday. In the evening, Collins, one of the salt makers, returned and reported that they had made about one bushel of salt, and that he and two others had hunted from the salt camp for five days without getting anything. They had to rely on some whale meat they got from the natives to survive.
The native fruits and buries in uce among the Indians of this neighbourhood are a deep purple burry about the size of a small cherry called by them Shal-lun, a small pale red bury called Sol'-me; the vineing or low Crambury, a light brown bury reather larger and much the shape of the black haw; and a scarlet bury about the size of a small cherry the plant called by the Canadin Engages of the N. W. sac a commis produces this bury; this plant is so called from the circumstance of the Clerks of those trading companies carrying the leaves of this plant in a small bag for the purpose of smokeing of which they are excessively fond. the Indians call this bury ____
The native fruits and berries among the Indians in this area include a deep purple berry about the size of a small cherry, which they call Shal-lun, and a small pale red berry known as Sol'-me. There’s also the low-growing Cranberry, a light brown berry that is larger and has a shape similar to the black haw. Additionally, there's a scarlet berry about the size of a small cherry produced by a plant referred to by Canadian traders in the Northwest as sac a commis. This plant gets its name because the clerks of those trading companies carry its leaves in a small bag for smoking, which they really enjoy. The Indians call this berry ____
I have lately learned that the natives whome I have heretofore named as distinct nations, living on the sea coast S. E. of the Killamucks, are only bands of that numerous nation, which continues to extend itself much further on that coast than I have enumerated them, but of the particular appellations of those distant bands I have not yet been enabled to inform myself; their language also is somewhat different from the Clatsops Chinnooks and Cathlahmahs; but I have not yet obtaind a vocabulary which I shall do the first oportunity which offers.
I recently learned that the natives I previously identified as separate nations, living on the southeast coast of the Killamucks, are actually just groups from a larger nation that stretches much further along that coast than I originally listed. However, I haven't been able to find out the specific names of those distant groups yet. Their language is also a bit different from that of the Clatsops, Chinnooks, and Cathlahmahs. However, I haven't obtained a vocabulary for it yet, but I will do so at the first opportunity that arises.
[Clark, January 25, 1806]
Monday 25th of January 1806 Commowol and the Clatsops departed early this morning. Colter returned and reported that his comrade hunter Willard had Continued his hunt from Point Adams towards the Saltmakers; and that they had killed only those two deer which the indians brought yesterday; in the evening Collins one of the Saltmakers returned and reported that they had made about one bushel of Salt and that himself and two others had hunted from the Salt Camp for five days without killing any thing and they had been obliged to Subsist on Some whale which they purchased from the nativs-.
Monday, January 25, 1806: Commowol and the Clatsops left early this morning. Colter came back and said that his fellow hunter, Willard, had continued his hunt from Point Adams toward the Saltmakers; and that they had only killed the two deer that the Indians brought yesterday. In the evening, Collins, one of the Saltmakers, returned and reported that they had produced about one bushel of salt and that he and two others had hunted from the Salt Camp for five days without success, having to survive on some whale they bought from the natives.
The native fruits and berries in use among the Indians of this neighbourhood are a Deep purple about the Size of a Small cherry called by them Shal lun, a Small pale red berry called Sol me; the vineing or low brown berry, a light brown berry rather larger and much the Shape of a black haw; and a Scarlet berry about the Size of a Small Chirry the plant Called by the Canadian Engages of the N. W. Sac a commis produces this berry; this plant is So Called from the circumstances of the Clerks of these tradeing Companies Carrying the leaves of this plant in a Small bag for the purpose of Smokeing of which they are excessively fond the Indians Call this berry ____
The native fruits and berries used by the local Indigenous people include a deep purple fruit about the size of a small cherry, which they call Shal lun, and a small pale red berry known as Sol me. There's also a low-growing brown berry, a light brown berry that's larger and shaped like a black haw, and a scarlet berry about the size of a small cherry. The plant that produces this berry is called Sac a commis by the Canadian traders from the Northwest. This name comes from the fact that clerks of these trading companies would carry the leaves of this plant in a small bag for smoking, which they are very fond of. The Indigenous people call this berry ____
[Lewis, January 26, 1806]
Monday January 26th 1806. Werner and Howard who were sent for salt on the 23rd have not yet returned, we are apprehensive that they have missed their way; neither of them are very good woodsmen, and this thick heavy timbered pine country added to the constant cloudy weather makes it difficult for even a good woodsman to steer for any considerable distance the course he wishes. we ordered Collins to return early in the morning and rejoin the salt makers, and gave him some small articles of merchandize to purchase provisions from the Indians, in the event of their still being unfortunate in the chase. The Shallun or deep purple berry is in form much like the huckkleberry and terminates bluntly with a kind of cap or cover at the end like that fruit; they are attatched seperately to the sides of the boughs of the shrub by a very short stem hanging underneath the same and are frequently placed very near each other on the same bough; it is a full bearer. the berry is easily geathered as it seperates from the bough readily, while the leaf is strongly affixed. the shrub which produces this fruit rises to the hight of 6 or 8 feet sometimes grows on the high lands but moste generally in the swampy or marshey grounds; it is an evergreen. the stem or trunk is from three to 10 Inches in circumference irregularly and much branched, seldom more than one steem proceding from the same root, tho they are frequently associated very thickly. the bark is somewhat rough and of a redish brown colour. the wood is very firm and hard. the leaves are alternate declining and attatched by a short fotstalk to the two horizontal sides of the boughs; the form is a long oval, reather more accute towards its apex than at the point of insertion; it's margin slightly serrate, it's sides colapsing or partially foalding upwards or channelled; it is also thick firm smothe and glossey, the upper surface of a fine deep green, while the under disk is of a pale or whiteish green. this shrub retains it's virdure very perfectly during the winter and is a beautifull shrub.—the natives either eat these berrys when ripe immediately from the bushes or dryed in the sun or by means of their sweating kilns; very frequently they pound them and bake then in large loaves of 10 or fifteen pounds; this bread keeps very well during one season and retains the moist jeucies of the fruit much better than by any other method of preservation. this bread is broken and stired in could water until it be sufficiently thick and then eaten; in this way the natives most generally use it.
Monday, January 26, 1806. Werner and Howard, who were sent out for salt on the 23rd, have not returned yet. We’re worried they might have lost their way; neither of them are very skilled in the woods, and the dense pine forest combined with the constant cloudy weather makes it hard for even experienced woodsmen to navigate over any significant distance. We told Collins to head back early in the morning and rejoin the salt makers. We gave him some small items to trade for provisions from the Indians, in case they still had no luck in their search. The Shallun, or deep purple berry, is shaped like a huckleberry and has a blunt cap at the end, similar to that fruit. They grow separately on the sides of the shrub’s branches, attached by a very short stem hanging beneath, and are often found close together on the same branch; it produces a lot of fruit. The berries are easy to pick since they detach from the branch easily, while the leaves are firmly attached. The shrub that produces these berries can grow to a height of 6 to 8 feet, usually found in swampy or marshy areas, although occasionally it grows in higher lands; it’s an evergreen. The trunk varies from 3 to 10 inches in circumference, is irregularly branched, and usually has just one stem coming from each root, though they often grow very densely together. The bark is somewhat rough and reddish-brown in color. The wood is quite firm and hard. The leaves are alternate, attached by a short petiole to the two horizontal sides of the branches; they are long ovals, tapering more towards the tip than at the base where they attach; their edges are slightly serrated, and the sides fold upwards or are somewhat channelled. They are thick, firm, smooth, and glossy, with the upper side a rich deep green and the underside a pale or whitish green. This shrub keeps its greenery remarkably well during winter and is quite attractive. The natives either eat these berries straight from the bushes when they’re ripe or dry them in the sun or in their sweating kilns. Often, they pound the berries and bake them into large loaves weighing 10 to 15 pounds; this bread stores well throughout the season and retains the moist juices of the fruit better than any other preservation method. This bread is broken up and stirred in cold water until it’s thick enough, and then it’s eaten; this is the way the natives generally use it.
[Clark, January 26, 1806]
Tuesday 26th of January 1806 We order Collins to return early in the morning and join the Salt makers, and gave him Some Small articles of merchendize to purchase Some provisions from the indians in the event of their Still being unfortunate in the chase.
Tuesday, January 26, 1806 We ordered Collins to come back early in the morning and join the salt makers, and we gave him some small items to trade for provisions from the Indians in case they were still unlucky in the hunt.
The or deep purple berry is in form much like the huckleberry and termonate bluntly with a kind of Cap or cover at the end like that fruit; they are attached Seperately to the Sides of the boughes of the shrub by a very Short Stem ganging under neath the Same, and are frequently placed verry near each other on the Same bough it is a full bearer; the berry is easily gathered as it Seperates from the bough, readily, while the leaf is Strongly affixed. the Shrub which produces this fruit rises to the hight of 6 or 8 feet Sometimes grows on high lands but most frequently in Swampy or marshey grounds; it is an ever green. the Stem or trunk is from 3 to 10 inches in circumferance irrigularly and much branched, Seldom more than one Stem proceeding from the Same root, tho they are frequently associated very thickly. the bark is Somewhat rough and of a redish brown Colour. the wood is very firm and hard. the leaves are alternate declining and attachd by a Short fotstalk to the two horozontal Sides of the bough's; the form is a long oval, reather more accute towards its apex that at the point of insertion; it's Sides partially folding upwards; or Channeled, it is also thick Smothe and glossy, the upper Surfice of a fine deep green, while the under disk is of a pale or whiteish green. this Shrub retains its verdure verry perfectly dureing the winter and is a butifull Shrub-. the nativs either eate those berries ripe imediately from the bushes, or dried in the Sun or by means of the Swetting kiln; verry frequently they pound them and bake them in large loaves 10 or 15 pounds weight; this bread keeps verry well dureing one Season and retains the moist jouicies of the frute much better than any other method of preperation. The bread is broken and Stured in Coald water untill it be Sufficiently thick and then eaten, in this way the nativ's most generally use it-.-.
The deep purple berry is shaped similarly to a huckleberry and ends bluntly with a kind of cap or cover like that fruit. They are individually attached to the sides of the branches of the shrub by a very short stem that connects underneath. They are often found quite close to each other on the same branch, and the shrub produces a lot of them. The berry separates easily from the branch, making it simple to pick, while the leaves are firmly attached. The shrub that bears this fruit can grow to a height of 6 to 8 feet; it often thrives in swampy or marshy areas, although it can also be found on higher ground. It is an evergreen plant. The trunk has a circumference of 3 to 10 inches, is irregularly shaped, and highly branched. Usually, there's only one stem coming from the same root, although they can grow thickly together. The bark is somewhat rough and reddish-brown. The wood is very solid and hard. The leaves grow alternately, declining, and are attached by a short petiole to the two horizontal sides of the branches. They have a long oval shape, tapering more sharply at the apex than at the point of attachment; the sides curve slightly upward or are channelled. The leaves are thick, smooth, and glossy, with the upper surface a rich deep green and the undersides a pale or whitish green. This shrub maintains its greenery well throughout the winter and is quite beautiful. The natives either eat the ripe berries directly off the bushes or dry them in the sun or using a sweating kiln. Frequently, they mash the berries and bake them into large loaves weighing 10 to 15 pounds. This bread keeps well throughout the season and retains the moist juiciness of the fruit much better than any other preparation method. The bread is broken up and stirred in cold water until it reaches a thick enough consistency and then eaten; this is usually how the natives consume it.
[Lewis, January 27, 1806]
Tuesday January 27th 1806. This morning Collins set out for the Salt works. in the evening Shannon returned and reported that himself and party had killed ten Elk. he left Labuche and R. fields with the Elk. two of those Elk he informed us were at the distance of nine miles from this place near the top of a mountain, that the rout by which they mus be brought was at least four miles by land through a country almost inaccessible from the fallen timber, brush and sink-holes, which were now disgused by the snow; we therefore concluded to relinquish those two Elk for the present, and ordered every man who could be speared from the fort to go early in the morning in surch of the other eight.
Tuesday, January 27th, 1806. This morning, Collins headed out to the salt works. In the evening, Shannon returned and reported that he and his group had killed ten elk. He left Labuche and R. Fields with the elk. He informed us that two of those elk were nine miles away, near the top of a mountain, and the route to bring them back was at least four miles through an area that was nearly impassable due to fallen timber, brush, and sinkholes, which were now hidden by snow. We decided to leave those two elk for now and instructed every man who could be spared from the fort to set out early in the morning in search of the other eight.
Goodrich has recovered from the Louis veneri which he contracted from an amorous contact with a Chinnook damsel. I cured him as I did Gibson last winter by the uce of murcury. I cannot learn that the Indians have any simples which are sovereign specifics in the cure of this disease; and indeed I doubt very much wheter any of them have any means of effecting a perfect cure. when once this disorder is contracted by them it continues with them during life; but always ends in decipitude, death, or premature old age; tho from the uce of certain simples together with their diet, they support this disorder with but little inconvenience for many years, and even enjoy a tolerable share of health; particularly so among the Chippeways who I believe to be better skilled in the uce of those simples than any nation of Savages in North America. The Chippeways use a decoction of the root of the Lobelia, and that of a species of sumac common to the Atlantic states and to this country near and on the Western side of the Rocky Mountains. this is the smallest species of the sumac, readily distinguished by it's winged rib, or common footstalk, which supports it's oppositely pinnate leaves. these decoctions are drank freely and without limitation. the same decoctions are used in cases of the gonnaerea and are effecatious and sovereign. notwithstanding that this disorder dose exist among the Indians on the Columbia yet it is witnessed in but few individuals, at least the males who are always sufficiently exposed to the observations or inspection of the phisician. in my whole rout down this river I did not see more than two or three with the gonnaerea and about double that number with the pox.
Goodrich has recovered from the Louis veneri he got from a romantic encounter with a Chinnook woman. I treated him the same way I treated Gibson last winter using mercury. I can't find out if the Indians have any natural remedies that work for this disease; in fact, I seriously doubt that they have any way to completely cure it. Once they contract this illness, it stays with them for life, usually leading to debility, death, or premature aging. However, with the use of certain natural remedies and their diet, they manage this disorder with minimal discomfort for many years and can even maintain a fair level of health. This is especially true among the Chippeways, who I believe are better at using these remedies than any other group of Native Americans in North America. The Chippeways use a brew made from the root of Lobelia and a type of sumac that is common in the Atlantic states and around the western side of the Rocky Mountains. This is the smallest type of sumac, easily identified by its winged stem that supports its opposite, pinnate leaves. These brews are consumed freely and without limits. The same brews are also used for gonorrhea and are effective and powerful. Even though this disease is present among the Indians along the Columbia River, it's only seen in a few individuals, particularly the males, who are always sufficiently exposed to medical observation. During my entire trip down this river, I saw no more than two or three with gonorrhea and about twice that number with syphilis.
The beary which the natives call solme is the production of a plant about the size and much the shape of that common to the atlantic states which produces the berry commonly called Solloman's seal berry. this berry also is attatched to the top of the stem in the same manner; and is of a globelar form, consisting of a thin soft pellecle which encloses a soft pulp inveloping from three to four seeds, white, firm, smothe, and in the form of a third or quarter of a globe, and large in proportion to the fruit or about the size of the seed of the common small grape. this berry when grown and unripe is not speckled as that of the Solomon's seal berry is; this last has only one globular smoth white firm seed in each berry.the Solme grows in the woodlands among the moss and is an annual plant to all appearance.
The berry that the locals call solme comes from a plant that's about the same size and has a similar shape to the one found in the Atlantic states that produces the berry usually known as Solomon's seal berry. This berry is also attached to the top of the stem in the same way and has a round shape, with a thin soft skin that surrounds a soft pulp containing three to four seeds. The seeds are white, firm, smooth, and shaped like a third or quarter of a globe, and they are relatively large compared to the fruit, roughly the size of a common small grape seed. When the berry is fully grown but not ripe, it doesn't have the speckles like those of the Solomon's seal berry; the latter only contains one round smooth white firm seed in each berry. The solme grows in wooded areas among the moss and appears to be an annual plant.
[Clark, January 27, 1806]
Wednesday 27th January 1806 This morning Collins Set out to the Saltmakers Shannon returned and reported that himself and party had killed 10 Elk. he lef Labiech & R Field with the Elk, two of those Elk he informed us was at the distance of 9 miles from this place near the top of a mountain, that the rout by which they must be brought was at least 5 miles by land thro a Countrey almost inexcessable, from the fallen timber brush, and Sink holes, which were now disguised by the Snow; we therefore Concluded to relinquish those two Elks for the present, and ordered every man that Could be Speared from the Fort to go early in the morning in Serch of the other Eight, which is at no great distance from the Netul river, on which we are. Goudrich has recoverd from the louis veneri which he contracted from a amorous Contact with a Chinnook damsel. he was Cured as Gibson was with murcury by ____ I cannot lern that the Indians have any Simples Sovereign Specifics in the cure of this disease; indeed I doubt verry much whether any of them have any means of effecting a perfect cure. when once this disorder is contracted by them it Continues with them dureing life; but always ends in decepitude, death; or premature old age; tho from the use of certain Simples together with their diet, they Support this disorder with but little inconveniance for maney years, and even enjoy a tolerable Share of health; particularly So among the Chippeways who I beleive to be better Skilled in the use of those Simples than any nation of Indians in North America. The Chippaways use a decoction of the root of the Labelia, and that of a Species of Sumac Common to the Atlantic States and to this countrey near and on the western Side of the Rocky mountains. This is the Smallest Specis of Sumake, readily distinguished by it's winged rib, or common footstalk, which Supports it's oppositly pinnate leaves. these decoctions are drank freely and without limatation. the Same decoctions are used also in cases of the gonnarea and are effecatious and sovereign. notwithstanding that this disorder does exist among the indians on the Columbia yet it is witnessed in but fiew individuals high up the river, or at least the males who are always Sufficiently exposed to the observation or inspection of the phisician. in my whole rout down this river I did not See more than two or three with Gonnarea and about double that number with the Pox.
Wednesday, January 27, 1806 This morning, Collins set out to meet the saltmakers. Shannon returned and reported that he and his group had killed 10 elk. He left Labiech and R. Field with the elk; he informed us that two of those elk were about 9 miles away near the top of a mountain. The route they needed to take was at least 5 miles over land through an area that was almost inaccessible due to fallen timber, brush, and sinkholes now hidden by snow. We concluded to give up on those two elk for now and ordered every man who could leave the fort to head out early in the morning in search of the other eight, which are not too far from the Netul River, where we are located. Goudrich has recovered from the venereal disease he caught from an intimate encounter with a Chinook woman. He was cured, like Gibson, with mercury. I haven't been able to learn if the Indians have any natural remedies that specifically cure this disease; in fact, I seriously doubt that any of them have a way to achieve a complete cure. Once someone contracts this illness, it tends to remain with them for life, usually leading to decline, death, or premature aging. However, through the use of certain herbs combined with their diet, they can manage this illness with minimal discomfort for many years, and even maintain a fair level of health. This is especially true among the Chippewa, who I believe to be more knowledgeable about these herbs than any other Native American group in North America. The Chippewa use a decoction made from the root of the labelia and a species of sumac common to the Atlantic states and this region, particularly on the western side of the Rocky Mountains. This is the smallest type of sumac, easily recognized by its winged stem, or common footstalk, which supports its oppositely pinnate leaves. They drink these decoctions freely and without limitation. The same decoctions are also used for cases of gonorrhea and are effective and powerful. Despite the presence of this disease among the Indians along the Columbia River, it is seen in only a few individuals high up the river, or at least among the males who are always adequately exposed to medical examination. During my entire route down this river, I saw no more than two or three with gonorrhea and about twice that number with syphilis.
The berry which the nativs Call Sol me is the production of a plant about the Size and much the Shape of that Common to the atlantic States which produces the berry Commonly Called Sollomons Seal berry this berry is also attached to the top of the Stem in the Same manner; and is of a globular form Consisting of a thin Soft Pellicle rine which encloses a Soft Pellicle pulp inveloping from 3 to 4 Seed, white firm, Smothe, and in the form of a third or a quarter of a Globe, and large in perportion to the fruit, or about the Size of the Seed of the Common Small grape. the berry when grown and unripe is not Specked as the Solomon's seal Berry is; this last haveing only one Globaler Smothe, ferm, white Seed in each berry-. the Sol me grows in the wood lands amonge the moss and on the high ridges. and is an annual plant to all appearance
The berry that the natives call Sol me comes from a plant about the size and shape of the one commonly found in the Atlantic States, which produces the berry typically known as Solomon’s Seal berry. This berry is also attached to the top of the stem in the same way and has a round shape made up of a thin, soft skin that encloses a soft pulp containing 3 to 4 seeds, which are white, firm, smooth, and shaped like a third or a quarter of a globe, large in proportion to the fruit, about the size of the seeds of a small grape. The berry, when fully grown and unripe, does not have the speckled appearance that the Solomon's Seal berry has; the latter only contains one smooth, firm, white seed in each berry. The Sol me grows in woodlands among the moss and on high ridges, and it appears to be an annual plant.
[Lewis, January 28, 1806]
Wednesday January 28th 1806. Drewyer and Baptiest La Page set out this morning on a hunting excurtion. about noon Howard and Werner returned with a supply of salt; the badness of the weather and the difficulty of the road had caused their delay. they inform us that the salt makers are still much straitened for provision, having killed two deer only in the last six days; and that there are no Elk in their neighbourhood. The party that were sent this morning up Netul river for the Elk returned in the even ing with three of them only; the Elk had been killed just before the snow fell which had covered them and so altered the apparent face of the country that the hunters could not find the Elk which they had killed. the river on which Fort Clatsop stands we now call Ne-tul, this being the name by which the Clatsops call it.
Wednesday, January 28th, 1806. Drewyer and Baptiest La Page left this morning for a hunting trip. Around noon, Howard and Werner came back with a supply of salt; the bad weather and rough roads delayed them. They informed us that the salt makers are still struggling for provisions, having only killed two deer in the last six days, and there are no elk in their area. The group that was sent up the Netul River this morning for elk returned in the evening with only three. The elk had been killed just before the snow fell, which covered them and changed the landscape so much that the hunters couldn’t find the elk they had killed. The river on which Fort Clatsop is located is now called Ne-tul, the name used by the Clatsops.
The Cranbury of this neighbourhood is precisely the same common to the U States, and is the production of marshey or boggy grounds. The light brown berry, is the fruit of a tree about the size shape and appearance in every rispect with that in the U. States called the wild crab apple; the leaf is also precisely the same as is also the bark in texture and colour. the berrys grow in clumps at the end of the small branches; each berry supported by a seperate stem, and as many as from 3 to 18 or 20 in a clump. the berry is ovate with one of it's extremities attatched to the peduncle, where it is in a small degre concave like the insertion of the stem of the crab apple. I know not whether this fruit can properly be denominated a berry, it is a pulpy pericarp, the outer coat of which is in a thin smoth, tho firm tough pillecle; the pericarp containing a membranous capsule with from three to four cells, each containing a seperate single seed in form and colour like that of the wild crab. The wood of this tree is excessively hard when seasoned. the natives make great uce of it to form their wedges with which they split their boards of pine for the purpose of building houses. these wedges they also employ in spliting their fire-wood and in hollowing out their canoes. I have seen the natives drive the wedges of this wood into solid dry pine which it cleft without fracturing or injuring the wedg in the smallest degree. we have also found this wood usefull to us for ax handles as well as glutts or wedges. the native also have wedges made of the beams of the Elk's horns which appear to answer extremely well. this fruit is exceedingly assid, and resembles the flavor of the wild crab.
The cranberry found in this area is exactly the same as the one common in the United States and grows in marshy or boggy land. The light brown berry comes from a tree that is the same size, shape, and appearance as the wild crab apple found in the U.S. The leaves match perfectly, as does the texture and color of the bark. The berries grow in clusters at the ends of small branches, with each berry attached by a separate stem, usually numbering between 3 to 20 in a cluster. The berry is oval-shaped, with one end connected to the stem, which has a slight concave shape similar to the stem of a crab apple. I'm not sure if this fruit should be called a berry; it has a pulpy outer layer that is thin, smooth, yet firm and tough. The inside contains a membranous capsule with three to four compartments, each holding a single seed that looks and feels like that of a wild crab. The wood of this tree is extremely hard when seasoned, and locals use it to make wedges for splitting pine boards to build houses. They also use these wedges for splitting firewood and hollowing out canoes. I've seen locals drive these wooden wedges into solid, dry pine, splitting it without causing any damage to the wedge. We have also found this wood useful for ax handles and as splitting wedges. Natives also have wedges made from elk antlers that seem to work quite well. This fruit is very astringent and tastes similar to the wild crab.
[Clark, January 28, 1806]
Thursday 28th January 1806 Drewyer and Baptiest Lapage Set out this morning on a hunting excurtion. about noon Howard & Werner returned with a Supply of Salt; the badness of the weather and the dificuelty of the road had detained them. they informed us that the Salt makers are Still much Stratened for provisions haveing killed two deer only in the last Six days; and that there are no Elk in their neighbourhood.
Thursday, January 28, 1806 Drewyer and Baptiest Lapage set out this morning on a hunting trip. Around noon, Howard and Werner returned with a supply of salt; they had been delayed by the bad weather and the difficult road. They informed us that the salt makers are still struggling for food, having only killed two deer in the last six days, and that there are no elk in their area.
The party that was Sent up the Netul river for the Elk returned this evening with three of them only; The Elk had been killed just before the Snow fell which had Covered them and So altered the apparant face of the Countrey that the hunters Could not find them. The River on which Fort Clat Sop Stands we now call Netul, this being the name by which the Clatsops Call it.
The group that went up the Netul River for the elk came back this evening with only three of them; the elk had been killed just before the snow fell, which covered them and changed the appearance of the land so much that the hunters couldn't find them. The river on which Fort Clat Sop stands is now called Netul, which is the name the Clatsops use for it.
The Cranberry of this neighbourhood is precisely the Same Common to the united States, and is the production of boggy or mashey grounds.-.
The cranberry in this neighborhood is exactly the same as the one found throughout the United States and grows in wet, marshy areas.
The light-brown berry, is the fruit of a tree, about the Size Shape and appearance in every respect with that in the united States called the wild Crab apple; the leaf is also presisely the Same as is also the bark in textue and colour. the berry grows in Clumps at the ends of the Smaller branches; each berry Supported by a Stem, and as maney as from 3 to 18 or 20 in a Clump. the berry is oval with one of its extremitis attatched to the peduncle, where it is in a Small degree Concave like the insersion of the Stem of the Crab apple. I know not whether this fruit Can properly be denomonated a berry, it is a pulpy pericarp, the outer coat of which is a thin Smothe, capsule with from three to four Cells, each containing a Seperate Single Seed in form and Colour like that of the wild Crab apple The wood of this tree is excessively hard when Seasoned. The nativs make great use of it to form their wedges of which they Split their boards of Pine for the purpose of building houses. those wedges they employ in common with those formed of the Elks horn, in Splitting their fire wood and in hollowing out their Canoes. I have Seen the nativs drive the wedges of this wood into a solid dry pine which it cleft without fractureing injuring the wedge in the Smallest degree. we have also found this wood useful) to us for ax handles, as well as glutt or wedges. The bark of this tree is chewed by our party in place of tobacco.
The light brown berry is the fruit of a tree that is similar in size, shape, and appearance to what is known in the United States as the wild crab apple. The leaves are also exactly the same, as is the bark in texture and color. The berries grow in clumps at the ends of the smaller branches, with each berry supported by a stem, and there can be anywhere from 3 to 18 or 20 in a clump. The berry is oval, with one end attached to the peduncle, where it is slightly concave, resembling the stem of the crab apple. I'm not sure if this fruit can properly be called a berry; it has a pulpy pericarp, and its outer layer is a smooth, thin capsule with three to four cells, each containing a single seed that looks and behaves like the seed of the wild crab apple. The wood of this tree is extremely hard once seasoned. The natives make great use of it for crafting wedges to split their pine boards for building houses. They use these wedges alongside those made from elk horn to split firewood and hollow out their canoes. I've seen the natives drive these wooden wedges into solid dry pine, splitting it without breaking or damaging the wedge at all. We've also found this wood useful for making axe handles, as well as for gluts or wedges. The bark of this tree is chewed by our group instead of tobacco.
The fruit is exceedingly ascid and resembles the flavor of the wild Crab.
The fruit is very sour and tastes like wild crab apples.
[Lewis, January 29, 1806]
Thursday January 29th 1806. Nothing worthy of notice occurred today. our fare is the flesh of lean elk boiled with pure water, and a little salt. the whale blubber which we have used very sparingly is now exhausted. on this food I do not feel strong, but enjoy the most perfect health;—a keen appetite supplys in a great degree the want of more luxurious sauses or dishes, and still render my ordinary meals not uninteresting to me, for I find myself sometimes enquiring of the cook whether dinner or breakfast is ready.-
Thursday, January 29, 1806. Nothing noteworthy happened today. Our meal consists of lean elk boiled with pure water and a little salt. The whale blubber we've been using very sparingly is now gone. With this food, I don't feel strong, but I have perfect health; a sharp appetite makes up for the lack of more luxurious sauces or dishes, and still makes my regular meals interesting to me, as I sometimes catch myself asking the cook whether dinner or breakfast is ready.
The Sac a commis is the growth of high dry situations, and invariably in a piney country or on it's borders. it is generally found in the open piney woodland as on the Western side of the Rocky mountain but in this neighbourhood we find it only in the praries or on their borders in the more open wood lands; a very rich soil is not absolutely necessary, as a meager one frequently produces it abundantly. the natives on this side of the Rockey mountains who can procure this berry invariably use it; to me it is a very tasteless and insippid fruit. this shrub is an evergreen, the leaves retain their virdure most perfectly through the winter even in the most rigid climate as on lake Winnipic. the root of this shrub puts forth a great number of stems which seperate near the surface of the ground; each stem from the size of a small quill to that of a man's finger; these are much branched the branches forming an accute angle with the stem, and all more poperly pocumbent than creeping, for altho it sometimes puts forth radicles from the stem and branches which strike obliquely into the ground, these radicles are by no means general, equable in their distances from each other nor do they appear to be calculated to furnish nutriment to the plant but reather to hold the stem or branch in it's place. the bark is formed of several thin layers of a smoth thin brittle substance of a dark or redish brown colour easily seperated from the woody stem in flakes. the leaves with rispect to their position are scatered yet closely arranged near the extremities of the twigs particularly. the leaf is about 3/4 of an inch in length and about half that in width, is oval but obtusely pointed, absolutely entire, thick, smoth, firm, a deep green and slightly grooved. the leaf is supported by a small footstalk of proportionable length. the berry is attatched in an irregular and scattered manner to the small boughs among the leaves, tho frequently closely arranged, but always supported by seperate short and small peduncles, the insertion of which poduces a slight concavity in the bury while it's opposite side is slightly convex; the form of the berry is a spheroid; the shorter diameter being in a line with the peduncle.—this berry is a pericarp the outer coat of which is a thin firm tough pellicle, the inner part consists of a dry mealy powder of a yellowish white colour invelloping from four to six proportionably large hard light brown seeds each in the form of a section of a spheroid which figure they form when united, and are destitute of any membranous covering.—the colour of this fruit is a fine scarlet. the natives usually eat them without any preperation. the fruit ripens in september and remains on the bushes all winter. the frost appears to take no effect on it. these berries are sometimes geathered and hung in their lodges in bags where they dry without further trouble, for in their most succulent state they appear to be almost as dry as flour.
The Sac a commis thrives in high, dry areas, usually in piney regions or on their edges. It is commonly found in open pinewood areas, particularly on the western side of the Rocky Mountains, but in this area, it appears only in the prairies or on their borders in more open woodlands. A rich soil isn’t strictly necessary, as it can grow abundantly in poorer soil. The Indigenous people on this side of the Rocky Mountains who can find this berry always use it; for me, it's a very bland and tasteless fruit. This shrub is an evergreen, with leaves that maintain their greenery perfectly through winter, even in the harshest climates like near Lake Winnipeg. The root of this shrub produces many stems that separate just above the ground; each stem ranges from the size of a small quill to that of a man's finger. These are highly branched, with the branches forming an acute angle with the stem, and they tend to be more prostrate than creeping. Although it occasionally sends out roots from the stem and branches that angle into the ground, these roots aren't very common, uniform in their spacing, or designed to provide nutrition for the plant; they seem more intended to anchor the stem or branch in place. The bark is made up of several thin layers of a smooth, brittle substance that is dark or reddish-brown, which easily flakes off the woody stem. The leaves are scattered but closely arranged near the ends of the twigs. Each leaf is about three-quarters of an inch long and about half that wide, oval but bluntly pointed, completely entire, thick, smooth, firm, deep green, and slightly grooved. The leaf is supported by a small stalk of appropriate length. The berry is attached in an irregular, scattered pattern to the small branches among the leaves, sometimes closely arranged but always held by separate short and small stems, creating a slight indentation on one side of the berry while the opposite side is slightly bulging. The berry is spheroid in shape, with the shorter diameter aligned with the stem. This berry is a pericarp with an outer layer that is a thin, firm, tough skin, and the inner part consists of a dry, powdery substance that is yellowish-white, enclosing four to six relatively large, hard, light brown seeds, each shaped like a section of a spheroid, forming that shape when they are joined, and lacking any membranous covering. The fruit is a fine scarlet color. The Indigenous people typically eat them raw. The fruit ripens in September and remains on the bushes throughout winter, seemingly unaffected by frost. These berries are occasionally gathered and hung in their lodges in bags, where they dry without much effort, as they are nearly as dry as flour even in their juiciest state.
[Clark, January 29, 1806]
Friday 29th January 1806 Nothing worthey of notice occured to day. our fare is the flesh of lean Elk boiled with pure water and a little Salt. the whale blubber which we have used very Spearingly is now exhosted. on this food I do not feel Strong, but enjoy tolerable health-. a keen appetite Supplies in a great degree the want of more luxurious Sauses or dishes, and Still renders my ordanary meals not uninteresting to me, for I find myself Sometimes enquireing of the Cook whether dinner Supper or Brackfast is readyindeed my appetite is but Seldom gratified, not even after I have eaten what I conceve a Sufficency.-
Friday, January 29, 1806 Nothing noteworthy happened today. Our meal consists of lean elk meat boiled with pure water and a little salt. The whale blubber we’ve used very sparingly is now finished. Because of this food, I don’t feel strong, but I maintain decent health. A sharp appetite mostly compensates for the lack of more luxurious sauces or dishes, and it still makes my ordinary meals somewhat interesting, as I sometimes find myself asking the cook if dinner, supper, or breakfast is ready. In fact, my appetite is rarely satisfied, not even after I feel I’ve eaten enough.
Maney of the nativs of the Columbia were hats & most commonly of a conic figure without a brim confined on the head by means of a String which passes under the chin and is attached to the two opposit Sides of a Secondary rim within the hat—the hat at top termonates in a pointed knob of a conic form, or in this Shape. these hats are made of the bark of Cedar and beargrass wrought with the fingers So closely that it Casts the rain most effectually in the Shape which they give them for their own use or that just discribed, on these hats they work various figures of different colours, but most commonly only black and white are employed. these figures are faint representations of the whales, the Canoes, and the harpooners Strikeing them. Sometimes Square dimonds triangle &c. The form of a knife which Seems to be prefured by those people is a double Edged and double pointed dagger the handle being near the middle, the blades of uneaquel length, the longest from 9 to 10 incs. and the Shorter one from 3 to 5 inches. those knives they Carry with them habitually and most usially in the hand, Sometimes exposed, when in Company with Strangers under their Robes with this knife they Cut & Clense their fish make their arrows &c. this is the form of the Knife A is a Small loop of a Strong twine throng through which they Sometimes they incert the thumb in order to prevent it being wrested from their hand.-.
Many of the natives of Columbia wore hats, which were most commonly conical without a brim, secured on the head by a string that goes under the chin and attaches to the two opposite sides of a secondary rim inside the hat. The top of the hat ends in a pointed knob in a conical shape. These hats are made from the bark of cedar and beargrass, woven tightly by hand to effectively shed rain, shaped for their personal use or as described here. On these hats, they create various designs in different colors, though most commonly, only black and white are used. These designs are faint representations of whales, canoes, and harpooners striking them, sometimes featuring square diamonds, triangles, etc. The knife shape preferred by these people is a double-edged, double-pointed dagger, with the handle positioned near the middle. The blades are of unequal lengths, the longer one measuring 9 to 10 inches, and the shorter one ranging from 3 to 5 inches. They habitually carry these knives, often in hand, sometimes exposed, when in the company of strangers, hidden under their robes. With this knife, they cut and clean their fish and make their arrows, etc. The form of the knife includes a small loop of strong twine through which they sometimes insert their thumb to prevent it from being wrested from their hand.
[Lewis, January 30, 1806]
Friday January 30th 1806. Nothing transpired today worthy of notice. we are agreeably disappointed in our fuel which is altogether green pine. we had supposed that it burn but illy, but we have found that by spliting it that it burns very well. The dress of the Clatsops and others in this neighbourhood differs but little from that discribed of the skillutes; they never wear leggins or mockersons which the mildness of this climate I presume has rendered in a great measure unnecessary; and their being obliged to be frequently in the water also renders those articles of dress inconvenient. they wear a hat of a conic figure without a brim confined on the head by means of a string which passes under the chin and is attatched to the two opsite sides of a secondary rim within the hat. the hat at top terminates in a pointed knob of a connic form also, or in this shape. these hats are made of the bark of cedar and beargrass wrought with the fingers so closely that it casts the rain most effectually in the shape which they give them for their own uce or that just discribed. on these hats they work various figures of different colours, but most commonly only black and white are employed. these figures are faint representations of whales the canoes and the harpoonneers striking them. sometimes squares dimonds triangles &c. The form of knife which seems to be prefered by these people is a double edged and double pointed daggar; the handle being in the middle, and the blades of unequal lengths, the longest usually from 9 to ten inches and the shorter one from four to five. these knives they carry with them habitually and most usually in the hand, sometimes exposed but most usually particularly when in company with strangers, under their robes with this knife they cut and clense their fish make their arrows &c. this is somewhat the form of the knife—A is a small loop of a strong twine through which they sometimes insert the thumb in order to prevent it's being wrested from their hand.
Friday, January 30, 1806. Nothing noteworthy happened today. We are pleasantly surprised by our fuel, which is entirely green pine. We thought it would burn poorly, but we've discovered that when split, it burns quite well. The clothing of the Clatsops and others in this area is quite similar to that of the Skillutes; they never wear leggings or moccasins, which I assume is mainly due to the mildness of this climate making them largely unnecessary. Being frequently in the water also makes those items of clothing impractical. They wear a brimless conical hat secured to their heads with a string that goes under the chin and attaches to opposite sides of a secondary rim inside the hat. The top of the hat ends in a pointed knob shaped like a cone. These hats are made from cedar bark and beargrass woven tightly enough that they effectively shed rain in the shape designed for their own use or the one just described. Various colored patterns are woven onto these hats, though they most often use only black and white. These patterns are faint depictions of whales, canoes, and harpooners striking them, along with shapes like squares, diamonds, triangles, etc. The preferred type of knife for these people appears to be a double-edged, double-pointed dagger, with the handle in the middle and blades of unequal lengths—the longer one usually measuring about 9 to 10 inches and the shorter about 4 to 5. They commonly carry these knives, usually in hand, sometimes visibly but mostly concealed under their robes, especially when in the company of strangers. With this knife, they cut and clean their fish and make their arrows, etc. This is somewhat the shape of the knife—A is a small loop of strong twine through which they sometimes insert their thumb to prevent it from being wrested from their hand.
[Clark, January 30, 1806]
Fort Clatsop on the Pacific Ocian on the South Side of the Columbia River Thursday 30th January 1806 Nothing transpired to day worthey of notice. we are agreeably disapointed in our fuel which is altogether green pine. we had Supposed that it burned badly, but we have found by Spliting it burns very well.
Fort Clatsop on the Pacific Ocean on the South Side of the Columbia River Thursday 30th January 1806 Nothing significant happened today. We are pleasantly surprised by our fuel, which is entirely green pine. We had thought it would burn poorly, but we discovered that when split, it actually burns quite well.
The dress of the Clatsops and others of the nativs in the neighbourhood differ but little from that described of the Skilutes and Wau ki a cums; they never ware ligins or mockersons which the mildness of the Climate I presume has rendered in a great measure unnecessary; and their being obliged to be frequently in the water also renders those articles of dress inconveniant.
The clothing of the Clatsops and other Native people in the area is quite similar to what was described for the Skilutes and Waukiacums. They never wear leggings or moccasins, which I assume is largely due to the mild climate making them less necessary. Additionally, being frequently in the water makes those types of clothing inconvenient.
The Sac-a commis is the groth of high dry Situations, and invariably in a piney Country, or on its borders; it is Generally found in the open piney woodlands as on the Western Side of the Rocky mountains but in this neighbourhood we find it in the praries or on the borders in the more open woodland's; a very rich Soil is not absolutely necessary, as a meager one frequently produces it abundantly. the nativs on the West side of the Rocky mountains who can precure this berry invariably use it; to me it is a very tasteless and insipid frute. This Shrub is an evergreen, the leaves retain their virdue most perfectly throughout the winter even in the most rigid climate as on Lake Winnipic. the root of this shrub puts foth a great number of Stems, which seperate near the surface of the ground; each Stem from the size of a Small quill, to that of a mans finger. These are much branched forming an accute angle with the Stem, and all more properly procumbent than crossing, for altho it sometimes puts foth radicles from the Stems and branches which Strike obliquely into the ground, those radicles are by no means general, equable in their distances from each other nor do they appear to be calculated to furnish nutriment to the plant but rather to hold the Stem or branch in its place. the bark is formed of several thin layers of a Smothe thin brittle substance of a redish brown colour easily seperated from the woody Stem in flakes. the leaves with respect to their possition are scatter'd yet closely arranged near the extremities of the twigs particularly. the leaves are about 3/4 of an inch in length and about half that in width, is oval but obtusely pointed, absolutely entire, thick, Smoth, firm, a deep green and slightly grooved. the leaf is Supported by a Small footstalk of preportionable length. the berry is attached in an irregular and Scattered manner to the Small boughs among the leaves, tho frequently Closely arranged, but always Supported by a Seperate Short and Small peduncles, the incersion of which produces a Small concavity in the berry while its opposit side is Slightly convex; the form of the berry is a Spheroid, the Shorter diameter being in a line with the peduncle or Stem-. this berry is a pericarp the outer Coat of which is a thin firm tough pellicle, the inner part consists of dry mealy powder of a yellowish white colour invelloping from four to six propotionably large hard light brown seeds each in the form of section of a spheroid which figure they form when united, and are distitute of any membranous covering.—the colour of this fruit is a fine scarlet. the nativs usually eat them without any preparation. the fruit ripens in September and remains on the bushes all winter. the frost appears to take no effects on it. these berries are Sometimes gathered and hung in their houses in bags where they dry without further trouble, for in their succulent State they appear to be almost as dry as flour.
The Sac-a commis grows in high, dry areas, usually in a piney region or on its edges. It's commonly found in open pine woodlands on the western side of the Rocky Mountains, but in this area, we find it in the prairies or on the borders of more open woodlands. A rich soil isn’t strictly necessary, as even poor soil can produce it abundantly. The natives on the west side of the Rocky Mountains who can obtain this berry always use it; to me, it is a very bland and tasteless fruit. This shrub is evergreen, and its leaves retain their vitality well throughout winter, even in the harshest climates like around Lake Winnipeg. The roots of this shrub produce many stems that separate near the surface of the ground; each stem ranges in size from a small quill to that of a man's finger. These are highly branched, forming sharp angles with the stem, and are more lying down than crossing. Although it sometimes sends out roots from the stems and branches that go into the ground at an angle, these roots are not common, do not have uniform distances from one another, and do not seem to provide nourishment to the plant but rather hold the stem or branch in place. The bark consists of several thin layers of a smooth, brittle substance that is reddish-brown and easily separates from the woody stem in flakes. The leaves are scattered but closely packed near the ends of the twigs, particularly. They are about ¾ of an inch long and about half that in width, oval but bluntly pointed, entirely smooth, firm, a deep green, and slightly grooved. Each leaf is supported by a short stem of proportionate length. The berries are attached in an irregular and scattered manner to the small branches among the leaves, though they are often closely arranged, and always supported by separate short and small stems, creating a slight indentation in the berry on one side while the opposite side is slightly rounded. The shape of the berry is a spheroid, with the shorter diameter aligned with the stem. This berry is a pericarp whose outer layer is a thin, firm, tough skin; the inside consists of dry, mealy powder that is yellowish-white, surrounding four to six reasonably large, hard, light brown seeds, each shaped like a section of a spheroid, and lacking any membranous covering. The color of this fruit is a vibrant scarlet. The natives usually eat them without any preparation. The fruit ripens in September and stays on the bushes throughout the winter. Frost seems to have no effect on it. These berries are sometimes gathered and hung in their homes in bags to dry without extra effort, as in their fresh state they seem almost as dry as flour.
[Lewis, January 31, 1806]
Saturday January 31st 1806. Sent a party of eight men up the river this morning to renew their surch for the Elk and also to hunt; they proceded but a few miles before they found the river so obstructed with ice that they were obliged to return. Joseph Fields arrived this evening, informed us that he had been hunting in company with Gibson and Willard for the last five days in order to obtain some meat for himself and the other Salt makers, and that he had been unsuccessfull untill yesday evening when he had fortunately killed two Elk, about six miles distant from this place and about 8 from the salt works; he left Gibson and Willard to dry the meat of these Elk and had come for the assistance of some men to carry the meat to the salt camp; for this purpose we ordered four men to accompany him early in the morning. discovered that McNeal had the pox, gave him medecine. Charbono found a bird dead lying near the fort this morning and brought it to me I immediately recognized it to be of the same kind of that which I had seen in the Rocky mountains on the morning of the 20th of September last. this bird is about the size as near as may be of the robbin. it's contour also is precisely the same with that bird. it measures one foot 31/4 Inches from tip to tip of the wings when extended. 91/4 inches from the extremity of the beak to that of the tail. the tail is 33/4 inches in length, and composed of eleven feathers of the same length. The beak is smoth, black, convex and cultrated; one and 1/8 inches from the point to the opening of the chaps and 3/4 only uncovered with feathers; the upper chap exceeds the other a little in length. a few small black hairs garnish the sides of the base of the upper chap. the eye is of a uniform deep sea green or black, moderately large. it's legs feet and tallons are white; the legs are an inch and a 1/4 in length and smoth; four toes on each foot, of which that in front is the same length with the leg including the length of the tallon, which is 4 lines; the three remaining toes are 3/4 of an inch, each armed with proportionably long tallons. the toes are slightly imbricated. the tallons are curved and sharply pointed. The crown of the head from the beak back to the neck, the back of the neck imbracing reather more than half the circumpherence of the neck, the back and tale, are of bluish dark brown; the two outer feathers of the tale have a little dash of white near their tips not percemtible when the tail is foalded. a fine black forms the ground of the wings; two stripes of the same colour pass on either side of the head from the base of the beak along the side of the head to it's junction with the neck, and imbraces the eye to it's upper edge; a third stripe of the same colour 3/4 of an inch in width passes from the sides of the neck just above the butts of the wings across the croop in the form of a gorget. the throat or under part of the neck brest and belly is of a fine yellowish brick red. a narrow stripe of this colour also commences just above the center of each eye, and extends backwards to the neck as far as the black stripe reaches before discribed, to which, it appears to answer as a border. the feathers which form the 1st and second ranges of the coverts of the two joints of the wing next the body, are beautifully tiped with this brick red; as is also each large feather of the wing on the short side of it's plumage for 1/2 an inch in length commening at the extremity of the feathers which form the first or main covert of the wing. this is a beatifull little bird. I have never heard it's note it appears to be silent. it feeds on berries, and I beleive is a rare bird even in this country, or at least this is the second time only that I have seen it.—between the legs of this bird the feathers are white, and those which form the tuft underneath the tail are a mixture of white and a brick red.
Saturday, January 31st, 1806. I sent out a group of eight men up the river this morning to continue their search for Elk and also to hunt. They only went a few miles before finding the river so blocked with ice that they had to turn back. Joseph Fields arrived this evening and told us he had been hunting with Gibson and Willard for the last five days to get some meat for himself and the other salt makers. He hadn’t had any luck until yesterday evening when he managed to kill two Elk about six miles from here and about eight from the salt works. He left Gibson and Willard to dry the meat and came back to get some men to help carry the meat to the salt camp. We sent four men to go with him early in the morning. I found out that McNeal had the pox and gave him medicine. Charbono found a dead bird near the fort this morning and brought it to me. I immediately recognized it as the same kind I had seen in the Rocky Mountains on the morning of September 20th last year. This bird is about the size of a robin and has a similar shape. It measures one foot 3 1/4 inches from tip to tip of the wings when extended and 9 1/4 inches from the tip of the beak to the end of the tail. The tail is 3 3/4 inches long and has eleven feathers of the same length. The beak is smooth, black, convex, and sharp; it’s 1 and 1/8 inches long from the tip to the mouth, with 3/4 inch uncovered by feathers. The upper jaw is slightly longer than the lower. A few small black hairs are found at the base of the upper jaw. The eye is a uniform deep sea green or black and is moderately large. Its legs, feet, and talons are white; the legs are an inch and a quarter long and smooth; there are four toes on each foot, with the front toe being the same length as the leg, including the talon length, which is 4 lines. The other three toes are 3/4 of an inch long, each having proportionally long talons. The toes overlap slightly and the talons are curved and sharply pointed. The crown of the head from the beak back to the neck, the back of the neck covering more than half the neck's circumference, as well as the back and tail, are a bluish dark brown. The two outer feathers of the tail have a slight white dash near their tips, which isn't noticeable when the tail is folded. The wings have a beautiful black ground color; two stripes of the same color run on either side of the head from the base of the beak along the head to where it meets the neck, hugging the eye to its upper edge; a third stripe of the same color, 3/4 of an inch wide, runs from the sides of the neck just above the wing bases across the back in the shape of a gorget. The throat and lower part of the neck, chest, and belly are a fine yellowish brick red. A narrow stripe of this color starts just above each eye and extends backward to the neck, matching the black stripe described earlier, creating a border effect. The first and second ranges of the coverts on the two wing joints nearest the body have beautiful tips of this brick red color, as does each large feather on the short side of the wing plumage for half an inch, starting at the tip of the feathers forming the first or main covert of the wing. This is a beautiful little bird. I have never heard its call; it seems to be silent. It feeds on berries and I believe it's a rare bird even in this country, or at least this is only the second time I’ve seen it. Between its legs, the feathers are white, and those forming the tuft underneath the tail are a mix of white and brick red.
[Clark, January 31, 1806]
Friday January 31st 1806 Sent a party of Eight men with the hunters to renew their Serch for the Elk, and also to hunt; they proceeded but a fiew miles before they found the river So obstructed with ice that they were obliged to return. Jo. Field arrives this evening, informs us That he had been hunting in Company with gibson and willard for the last four days in order to obtain some meat for himself and the other Salt-makers, and that he had been unsucksessfull untill yesterday evening when he had fortunately killed two Elk, about six miles distant from this place and about 8 from the Salt works; he left gibson and willard to dry the meat of those Elk, and had come for assistance to carry the meat to the Salt Camp; for this purpose we ordered four men to accompany him early in the morning. discovered that McNeal had the pox, gave him medicine. Chabono found a bird dead lying near the Fort this morning and brought it in, I reconized it to be the Same kind of that which I had Seen in the Rocky Mountains at severl different times. this berd is about the Size as near as may be of the robin. it's contour is also presisely the Same with that bird. it measured one foot 3/4 inches from tip to tip of the wings when extended. 91/4 inches from the extremity of the beak to that of the tail. the tail is 33/4 inches in length, and Composed of 11 feathers of the Same length. The beak is Smoth, black, convex and cultrated; 1 1/8 inchs from the point to the opening of the Chaps and 3/4 only uncovered with feathers, the upper Chap exceeds the other a little in length. a fiew Small black hairs garnish the Side of the upper chap. The Eye is of a uniform deep Sea green or black, moderately large. it's legs feet and tallants are white; the legs are of 11/4 in length and Smoth; four toes on each foot, of which that in front is the Same length of the leg including the tallants, which is 4 lines; the 3 remaining toes are 3/4 of an inch, each armed with proportianably large tallons. the toes are Slightly imbricated. the tallons are curved and Sharply pointed. The Crown of the head from the beak back to the neck imbracing rather more than half the circumphrence of the neck, the Back and tail is of a bluish dark brown; the two outer feathers of the tail have a little dash of white near the tips, not proceivable when the tail is foalded. a fine black forms the ground of the wings; two Stripes of the same colour passes on either side of the Head from the base of the Back along the Side of the head to it's junction with the neck, and embraces the eye to its upper edge; a third Stripe of the Same Colour 3/4 of an inch in width passes from the Side of the neck just above the buts of the wings across the troop in the form of a gorget. the throat or under part of the neck brest and belly is of a fine Yellowish brick red. a narrow Stripe of this Colour also Commences just above the center of each eye, and extends backwards to the Neck as far as the black Spots reaches before discribed, to which it appears to answer as a border. the feathers which form the 1st and Second range of the coverts of the two joints of the wings next the body are butifully aped with this Brick red; as is also each large feather of the wing on the Short Side of its plumage for 1/2 an inch in length Comencing at the extremity of the feather which form the first or main Covert of the wing. This is a butifull little bird. I have never herd its notes it appears to be Silent. it feeds on berries, and I believe is a rare bird even in this country-. between the legs of this bird the feathers are white, and those which form the tuft underneath the tail are a mixture of white and Brick red.
Friday, January 31st, 1806. I sent a group of eight men with the hunters to continue their search for elk and to hunt as well. They went just a few miles before they found the river so blocked with ice that they had to turn back. Jo. Field arrived this evening and told us that he had been hunting with Gibson and Willard for the past four days to get some meat for himself and the other salt makers, but he had been unsuccessful until yesterday evening when he managed to kill two elk about six miles from here and about eight from the salt works. He left Gibson and Willard to dry the elk meat and came back for help to carry the meat to the salt camp. For this, we ordered four men to accompany him early in the morning. I found out that McNeal had the pox and gave him medicine. Chabono found a dead bird near the fort this morning and brought it in; I recognized it as the same kind I had seen in the Rocky Mountains several times before. This bird is about the same size as a robin. Its shape is also exactly like that bird. It measured one foot and three-quarters of an inch from tip to tip of the wings when extended and nine and a quarter inches from the tip of the beak to the tail. The tail is three and three-quarters inches long and has eleven feathers of the same length. The beak is smooth, black, curved, and blunt; it measures one and one-eighth inches from the tip to the opening of the jaw, with three-quarters of an inch uncovered by feathers. The upper jaw is slightly longer than the lower one. A few small black hairs adorn the side of the upper jaw. The eye is a uniform deep sea green or black, moderately large. Its legs, feet, and talons are white; the legs are one and a quarter inches long and smooth; there are four toes on each foot, with the front toe being the same length as the leg, including the talons, which is four lines; the other three toes are three-quarters of an inch long, each armed with proportionately large talons. The toes are slightly overlapping. The talons are curved and sharply pointed. The crown of the head from the beak back to the neck encircles just over half the circumference of the neck; the back and tail are a dark bluish-brown. The two outer feathers of the tail have a hint of white near the tips, which is not noticeable when the tail is folded. A fine black forms the base color of the wings; two stripes of the same color run on either side of the head from the base of the back along the side of the head to where it joins the neck, wrapping around the eye to its upper edge; a third stripe of the same color, three-quarters of an inch wide, goes from the side of the neck just above the bases of the wings across the breast in the shape of a gorget. The throat, or underside of the neck, chest, and belly are a fine yellowish-brick red. A narrow stripe of this color also begins just above the center of each eye and extends back to the neck as far as the black spots previously described, which appears to act as a border. The feathers forming the first and second rows of coverts on the two joints of the wings next to the body are beautifully shaded with this brick red; so are each large feather of the wing on the short side of its plumage for half an inch in length, starting at the tip of the feather that forms the first or main covert of the wing. This is a beautiful little bird. I have never heard its song; it seems to be silent. It feeds on berries, and I believe it is a rare bird even in this country. Between the legs of this bird, the feathers are white, and those that form the tuft underneath the tail are a mix of white and brick red.
[Lewis, February 1, 1806]
Saturday February 1st 1806. This morning a party of four men set out with Joseph Fields; Sergt. Gass with a party of five men again set out up the Netul river in surch of the Elk which had been killed some days since, and which could not be found in consequence of the snow. The Canoes of the natives inhabiting the lower portion of the Columbia River make their canoes remarkably neat light and well addapted for riding high waves. I have seen the natives near the coast riding waves in these canoes with safety and apparently without concern where I should have thought it impossible for any vessel of the same size to lived a minute. they are built of whitecedar or Arborvita generally, but sometimes of the firr. they are cut out of a solid stick of timber, the gunwals at the upper edge foald over outwards and are about 5/8 of an inch thick and 4 or five broad, and stand horrizontally forming a kind of rim to the canoe to prevent the water beating into it. they are all furnished with more or less crossbars in proportion to the size of the canoe. these bars are round sticks about half the size of a man's arm, which are incerted through holes (just) made in either side of the canoe just below the rim of the gunwall and are further secured with strings of waytape; these crossbars serve to lift and manage the canoe on land. when the natives land they invariably take their canoes on shore, unless they are heavily laden, and then even, if they remain all night, they discharge their loads and take the canoes on shore. some of the large canoes are upwards of 50 feet long and will carry from 8 to 10 thousand lbs. or from 20 to thirty persons and some of them particularly on the sea coast are waxed painted and ornimented with curious images at bough and Stern; those images sometimes rise to the hight of five feet; the pedestals on which these immages are fixed are sometimes cut out of the solid stick with the canoe, and the imagary is formed of seperate small peices of timber firmly united with tenants and motices without the assistance of a single spike of any kind. when the natives are engaged in navigating their canoes one sets in the stern and steers with a paddle the others set by pears and paddle over the gunwall next them, they all kneel in the bottom of the canoe and set on their feet. their paddles are of a uniform shape of which this is an imitation these paddles are made very thin and the middle of the blade is thick and hollowed out siddonly and made thin at the sides while the center forms a kind of rib. the blade occupys about one third of the length of the paddle which is usually from 41/2 to 5 feet. I have observed four forms of canoe only in uce among the nations below the grand chatarac of this river they are as follow. this is the smallest size about 15 feet long and calculated for one or two persons, and are most common among the Cathlahmahs and Wack ki a cums among the marshey Islands. A the bow; B, the stern; these are from twenty to thirty five feet and from two 1/2 to 3 feet in the beam and about 2 feet in the hole; this canoe is common to all the nations below the grand rappids. it is here made deeper and shorter in proportion than they really are.—the bowsprit from C, to D is brought to a sharp edge tapering gradually from the sides.
Saturday, February 1, 1806. This morning, a group of four men set out with Joseph Fields; Sergeant Gass, along with five other men, headed up the Netul River searching for the elk that had been killed a few days ago but couldn't be found because of the snow. The canoes used by the natives living in the lower part of the Columbia River are impressively neat, lightweight, and designed to handle high waves well. I've seen the natives along the coast navigating waves in these canoes safely and seemingly without worry, where I would have thought any vessel of the same size would capsize in an instant. They are typically made from white cedar or arborvitae, but sometimes from fir. They are carved out of a solid piece of timber, and the gunwales at the top edge curve outward, measuring about 5/8 of an inch thick and 4 to 5 inches wide, forming a horizontal rim to keep water from splashing in. Each canoe is equipped with varying numbers of crossbars depending on its size. These bars are rounded sticks about the thickness of a man's arm, inserted through holes made in either side of the canoe just below the gunwale rim and secured with strips of woven material. These crossbars help lift and maneuver the canoe on land. When the natives land, they always take their canoes ashore, unless they are heavily loaded; even then, if they stay overnight, they unload and bring their canoes onto the shore. Some large canoes exceed 50 feet in length and can carry between 8,000 and 10,000 pounds or accommodate 20 to 30 people. Some, especially those on the coast, are waxed, painted, and adorned with intricate images at the bow and stern; these figures can reach heights of up to five feet. The pedestals for these images are sometimes carved from the same solid piece of wood as the canoe, and the figures are made from separate smaller pieces of timber securely joined together without any kind of metal fasteners. When the natives are paddling their canoes, one person sits at the stern and steers with a paddle while the others sit in pairs and paddle over the gunwales next to them, kneeling in the bottom of the canoe with their feet on the floor. Their paddles have a standard design, typically thin with a thick, hollowed-out center and tapered edges, resembling a rib. The blade takes up about one-third of the paddle's length, which is usually between 4.5 to 5 feet long. I've observed four types of canoes being used among the tribes below the grand cataract of this river. The smallest is about 15 feet long and designed for one or two people, commonly used by the Cathlahmahs and Wackkiacums among the marshy islands. Type A is the bow; Type B is the stern. Types C and D range from 20 to 35 feet long, 2.5 to 3 feet wide, and about 2 feet deep; this type of canoe is common among all the tribes below the grand rapids. Here, it is shown made deeper and shorter than it actually is. The bowsprit from C to D tapers to a sharp edge, gradually narrowing from the sides.
This is the most common forms of the canoe in uce among the Indians from; the Chil-luck-kit-te-quaw inclusive to the Ocean and is usually about 30 or 35 feet long, and will carry from ten to twelve persons. 4 men are competent to carry them a considerable distance say a mile without resting. A is the end which they use as the bow, but which on first sight I took to be the stern C. D. is a comb cut of the sollid stick with the canoe and projects from the center of the end of the canoe being about 1 inch thirck it's sides parallel and edge at C D. sharp. it is from 9 to 11 Inches in length and extends from the underpart of the bowsprit at A to the bottom of the canoe at D.—the stern B. is mearly rounding and graduly ascending. 1 2 3 represents the rim of the gunwalls about 4 Inches wide, reather ascending as they recede from the canoe. 4 5 6 7 8 are the round holes through which the cross bars are inserted.
This is the most common type of canoe used by the Indians from the Chil-luck-kit-te-quaw area to the ocean, typically measuring about 30 to 35 feet long and capable of carrying ten to twelve people. Four men can carry them quite a distance, say about a mile, without resting. A is the end they use as the bow, although at first glance, I mistook it for the stern. C and D is a comb cut from the solid stick of the canoe, extending from the center of the canoe's end, about 1 inch thick with parallel sides and a sharp edge at CD. It measures between 9 to 11 inches in length, reaching from the underside of the bowsprit at A to the bottom of the canoe at D. The stern B is just rounded and gradually rises. 1 2 3 represents the rim of the gunwales, about 4 inches wide, slightly ascending as they move away from the canoe. 4 5 6 7 8 are the round holes where the crossbars are inserted.
This form of canoe we did not meet with untill we reached tidewater or below the grand rappids. from thence down it is common to all the nations but more particularly the Killamucks and others of the coast. these are the largest canoes. B. is the bow and comb. C. the stern and comb. their immages are representations of a great variety of grotesque figures, any of which might be safely worshiped without committing a breach of the commandments.
This type of canoe we didn’t encounter until we got to the tidal waters or below the grand rapids. From that point down, it’s common to all the nations, but especially the Killamucks and other coastal tribes. These are the largest canoes. B. is the bow and comb. C. is the stern and comb. Their images show a wide range of bizarre figures, any of which could be safely worshiped without breaking any commandments.
They have but few axes among them, and the only too usually imployed in felling the trees or forming the canoe, carving &c is a chissel formed of an old file about an Inch or an Inch and a half broad. this chissel has sometimes a large block of wood for a handle; they grasp the chissel just below the block with the right hand holding the edge down while with the left they take hold of the top of the block and strike backhanded against the wood with the edge of the chissel. a person would suppose that the forming of a large canoe with an instrument like this was the work of several years; but these people make them in a few weeks. they prize their canoes very highly; we have been anxious to obtain some of them, for our journey up the river but have not been able to obtain one as yet from the natives in this neighbourhood.- today we opened and examined all our ammunition, which had been secured in leaden canesters. we found twenty seven of the best rifle powder, 4 of common rifle, three of glaized and one of the musqut powder in good order, perfectly as dry as when first put in the canesters, altho the whole of it from various accedents has been for hours under the water. these cannesters contain four lbs. of powder each and 8 of lead. had it not have been for that happy expedient which I devised of securing the powder by means of the lead, we should not have had a single charge of powder at this time. three of the canesters which had been accedentally bruized and cracked, one which was carelessly stoped, and a fifth that had been penetrated with a nail, were a little dammaged; these we gave to the men to make dry; however exclusive of those five we have an abundant stock to last us back; and we always take care to put a proportion of it in each canoe, to the end that should one canoe or more be lost we should still not be entirely bereft of ammunition, which is now our only hope for subsistence and defence in a rout of 4000 miles through a country exclusively inhabited by savages.
They have very few axes, and the only one they usually use for chopping down trees, making canoes, carving, and so on is a chisel made from an old file, about an inch or an inch and a half wide. This chisel sometimes has a large block of wood attached as a handle; they hold the chisel just below the block with their right hand, keeping the edge down, while with their left hand, they grip the top of the block and strike backhand against the wood with the edge of the chisel. One might think that shaping a large canoe with such a tool would take years, but these people manage to make them in just a few weeks. They value their canoes very highly; we’ve been eager to get some for our journey up the river, but so far, we haven’t been able to acquire one from the locals in this area. Today we opened and examined all our ammunition, which had been stored in lead canisters. We found twenty-seven canisters of the best rifle powder, four of common rifle powder, three of glazed powder, and one of musket powder, all in good condition, perfectly as dry as when first packed in the canisters, even though most of it had spent hours underwater due to various accidents. Each canister holds four pounds of powder and eight pounds of lead. If it hadn’t been for that clever idea I had to secure the powder with the lead, we wouldn’t have had a single charge left at this time. Three of the canisters were accidentally bruised and cracked, one was carelessly stopped, and a fifth had been pierced by a nail, so those were slightly damaged; we gave them to the men to dry out. However, aside from those five, we have plenty to last us on our return trip, and we always make sure to put some in each canoe, so that even if we lose one or more canoes, we won't be completely out of ammunition, which is now our only hope for survival and defense in a journey of 4,000 miles through a land solely inhabited by savages.
[Clark, February 1, 1806]
Saturday February 1st 1806 This morning a party of four men Set out with Jo. Field; and Sergt. Gass with a party of five men again Set out up the Netul river in Serch of the Elk which had been killed Some days since, and which Could not be found in Consequence of the Snow.
Saturday, February 1st, 1806 This morning, a group of four men set out with Jo. Field; and Sergeant Gass, along with a group of five men, once again headed up the Netul River in search of the elk that had been killed a few days ago, which couldn’t be found because of the snow.
The Canoes of the nativs inhabitting the lower part of the Columbia River from the Long narrows down make their canoes remarkably neat light and well addapted for rideing high waves. I have Seen the nativs near the Coast rideing waves in these Canoes in Safty and appearantly without Concern when I Should it impossible for any vessel of the Same Size to have lived or kept above water a minute. they are built of Arborvitia or white Cedar generally, but Sometimes of fir. they are cut out of a solid Stick of timber, the gunnals at the upper edge fold over outwards and are about 5/8 of an inch thick and 4 or 5 broad, and Stand out nearly Horizontially forming a kind of rim to the Canoe to prevent the water beating into it. they are all furnished with more or less Cross bars agreeably to thier sizes of the Canoe, those bars are round Sticks about 1 inch and 1/2 diameter which are atached to the iner Side of the canoes a little below the rim on either Side with throngs of Cedar bark which is incerted through holes and made fast to the ends of the Stick, which is made Smaller than the other part of the Stick to prevent the cord Slipping off these cross bears Serve to Strengthen the canoe, and by which they lift and manage her on land. when the nativs land they invariably take their Canoes on Shore unless they are heavily ladined, and then even, if they remain all night, they discharge their loads and take the Canoe on Shore.
The canoes of the natives living in the lower part of the Columbia River, from the Long Narrows down, are impressively neat, lightweight, and well-suited for riding high waves. I've seen the natives near the coast riding the waves in these canoes safely and seemingly without worry, while I would think it impossible for any vessel of the same size to survive or stay afloat for even a minute. They are usually made of arborvitae or white cedar, but sometimes of fir. They are carved out of a single piece of timber, with the gunnels at the upper edge folding outward, about 5/8 of an inch thick and 4 or 5 inches wide, extending nearly horizontally to form a kind of rim that prevents water from crashing into the canoe. They all have varying numbers of crossbars depending on the size of the canoe; these bars are round sticks about 1.5 inches in diameter, attached to the inner side of the canoes just below the rim on either side with cedar bark thongs, which are threaded through holes and secured to the ends of the stick, which is tapered to prevent the cord from slipping off. These crossbars help strengthen the canoe and assist them in lifting and maneuvering it on land. When the natives land, they always take their canoes ashore unless they are heavily laden, and even then, if they stay overnight, they unload their cargo and take the canoe on shore.
Some of the large Canoes are upwards of 50 feet long and will Carry from 8 to 12 thousand lbs. or from 20 to 30 persons, and Some of them particularly on the Sea Coast are waxed painted and ornimented with curious images on bow and Stern; those images sometimes rise to the hight of five feet; the pedestile on which these images are fixed, are Sometimes cut out of the Solid Stick with the Canoe, and the image is formed of Seperate pieces of timber firmly united with tenants and mortices without the appearance of a Single Spike or nail of any kind. when the nativs are engaged in navigateing their Canoes, one Sets in the Stern and Stears with a paddle the others Set by pars and paddle over their gunnals next them, they all kneel in the bottom of the Canoe and Set on their feet. their paddles are of an uniform shape which this is an imitation those paddles are made verry thin and the middle of the blade is thick and hollowed out Suddenly, and made thin on the Sides, the center forming a kind of ridge. the handle occupies about 1/8 of the length of the paddle which is usually 4 to 41/2 feet in length. I have observed five forms of Canoes only in use among the nativs below the Grand Cataract of this river. they areas follows. this is the Smallest Size about 15 feet long, 12 and Calculated for one two men mearly to cross creeks, take over Short portages to navagate the ponds and Still water, and is mostly in use amongst the Clatsops and Chinnooks. this is the next Smallest and from 16 to 20 feet long and calculated for two or 3 persons and are most common among the Wau-ki-a-cums and Cath-lah-mahs among the marshey Islands, near their villages. A the bow; B the Stern; those are from 20 to 40 feet in length and from 21/2 to 31/2 feet in the beam and about 2 feet deep; this Canoe is common to all the nations below the grand Rapids it here made deeper and Shorter in pertotion than the Canoe realy is, the bow sprit from C. to D. is brought to a Sharp edge tapering gradually from the Sides. This is the most common form of the Canoes in use among the indians from the Chil-luck-kit-te quaw inclusive to the ocian and is commonly from about 30 to 35 feet long, and will carry from 10 to 12 persons. 4 men are competent to carry them a considerable distance Say a mile without resting. A is the end the nativs use as the bow, but which on first Sight I took to be the Stern c. d. is a comb cut of the solid wood with the Canoe, and projects from the Center of the end of the Canoe being about 1 inch thick, it's Sides parallel and edge at c, d, Sharp it is from 9 to 11 inches in debth and extends from the under part of the bow sprit at A to the bottom at, d,. the Stern B is nearly rounding and gradually assending. 1, 2, 3, represents the rim of the gunnals about 4 inches wide, reather ascending as they recede from the Canoe. 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, are the holes through which the String pass to fasten the round pieces which pass Crosswise the Canoe to Strengthen & lift her. This form of a canoe we did not meet with untill we reached tide water or below the Great Rapids. from thence down it is common to all the nations but more particularly the Kil a mox and others of the Coast. these are the largest Canoes, I measured one at the Kilamox villag S S W of us which was ____ feet long ____ feet wide and ____ feet deep, and they are most Commonly about that Size. B is the how, and Comb. C, the stern and Comb. Their images are representations of a great variety of grotesque figures, any of which might be Safely worshiped without commiting a breach of the Commandments.
Some of the large canoes are over 50 feet long and can carry between 8,000 to 12,000 lbs or about 20 to 30 people. Some of these, especially those along the sea coast, are waxed, painted, and decorated with intricate images on the bow and stern; these images can reach heights of five feet. The pedestal on which these images are placed is sometimes carved from the solid wood of the canoe, and the images are made from separate pieces of wood that are securely joined together without any visible spikes or nails. When the natives are navigating their canoes, one person sits at the stern and steers with a paddle while the others sit along the sides and paddle on the gunwales next to them, all kneeling at the bottom of the canoe with their feet on the floor. Their paddles have a consistent shape; they're very thin at the edges, with the middle of the blade being thick and hollowed out quickly, creating a ridge down the center. The handle makes up about an eighth of the paddle's length, which usually ranges from 4 to 4.5 feet long. I've noted five types of canoes in use among the natives below the Grand Cataract of this river. They are as follows: The smallest size is about 15 feet long, meant for one or two men to cross creeks and handle short portages to navigate ponds and still water, mostly used by the Clatsops and Chinooks. The next size is from 16 to 20 feet long, suitable for two or three people, and is commonly found among the Wau-ki-a-cums and Cath-lah-mahs near the marshy islands close to their villages. The canoes from 20 to 40 feet in length, measuring about 2.5 to 3.5 feet in width and around 2 feet deep, are typical for all nations below the Grand Rapids. Here, they are made deeper and shorter in proportion than the actual canoe. The bow sprit from point C to D comes to a sharp edge, tapering gradually from the sides. This is the most common canoe shape used by the Indians from Chil-luck-kit-te quaw to the ocean and is usually between 30 to 35 feet long, carrying about 10 to 12 people. Four men can carry them a significant distance, say about a mile, without resting. Point A is the end the natives use as the bow, which at first glance I mistook for the stern. Point C to D is a comb cut from the solid wood of the canoe, projecting from the center of the end and about 1 inch thick with parallel sides and sharp edge at C, D. It is 9 to 11 inches deep, extending from the underside of the bow sprit at A to the bottom at D. The stern B is nearly rounded and gradually ascends. Points 1, 2, 3 represent the rim of the gunwales, about 4 inches wide and slightly sloping as they move away from the canoe. Points 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8 are the holes through which strings pass to secure the crosswise pieces that strengthen and support the canoe. We didn't encounter this canoe type until we reached tidewater or went below the Great Rapids. From there downstream, it is common to all nations, but particularly among the Kil a mox and others from the coast. These are the largest canoes; I measured one at the Kilamox village, SSW of us, which was ____ feet long, ____ feet wide, and ____ feet deep. This size is quite typical. B indicates the bow, and C shows the stern. Their images represent a wide variety of grotesque figures, any of which could be safely worshiped without breaching the commandments.
They have but fiew axes among them, and the only tool usially employd in forming the Canoe, carveing &c is a chissel formed of an old file about an inch or 11/2 inchs broad, this chissel has Sometimes a large block of wood for a handle; they grasp the chissel just below the block with the right hand holding the top of the block, and Strikes backwards against the wood with the edge of the Chissel. a person would Suppose that forming a large Canoe with an enstriment like this was the work of Several years; but those people make them in a fiew weeks. They prize their Canoes very highly; we have been anxious to obtain Some of them, for our journy up the river but have not been able to obtain one as yet from the nativs in this neighbourhood.
They have only a few axes among them, and the main tool they usually use for making canoes and carving is a chisel made from an old file that's about an inch or an inch and a half wide. This chisel sometimes has a large block of wood attached as a handle; they hold the chisel just below the block with their right hand while gripping the top of the block, and strike backward against the wood with the edge of the chisel. One might think that making a large canoe with a tool like this would take several years, but these people can do it in just a few weeks. They value their canoes very highly; we've been eager to get some for our journey up the river but haven’t been able to obtain one yet from the locals in this area.
To day we opened and examined all our Ammunition, which has been Secured in leaden Canistirs. we found twenty Sevin of the best Rifle powder, 4 of Common rifle, 3 of Glaize and one of Musquet powder in good order, perfectly as dry as when first put in the Canisters, altho the whole of it from various accidince have been for hours under the water. these Cannisters Contain 4 pounds of powder each and 8 of Lead. had it not been for that happy expedient which Capt Lewis devised of Securing the powder by means of the Lead, we Should have found great dificuelty in keeping dry powder untill this time-; those Cannisters which had been accidently brused and cracked, one which was carelessly Stoped, and a fifth which had been penetrated with a nail; were wet and damaged; those we gave to the men to Dry; however exclusive of those 5 we have an abundant Stock to last us back; and we always take Care to put a purpotion of it in each canoe, to the end that Should one Canoe or more be lost we Should Still not be entirely bereft of ammunition, which is now our only hope for Subsistance and defences in the rout of 4,000 miles through a Country exclusively inhabited by Indians-many bands of which are Savage in every Sense of the word-.
Today we opened and examined all our ammunition, which has been secured in lead canisters. We found twenty-seven of the best rifle powder, four of common rifle, three of glaze, and one of musket powder in good condition, perfectly as dry as when first packed in the canisters, although the entire stock has been underwater for hours due to various accidents. These canisters contain four pounds of powder each and eight pounds of lead. If it hadn't been for the clever solution that Captain Lewis came up with to secure the powder using lead, we would have faced significant difficulties keeping the powder dry until now. The canisters that were accidentally bruised and cracked, one that was carelessly stopped, and a fifth that had been punctured with a nail were wet and damaged; we gave those to the men to dry. However, aside from those five, we have an abundant supply to last us on our journey back. We also always make sure to distribute a portion of it in each canoe, so that if one or more canoes are lost, we won't be completely without ammunition, which is now our only hope for sustenance and defense on our 4,000-mile route through a region solely inhabited by Indians, many of whom are savage in every sense of the word.
[Lewis, February 2, 1806]
Sunday February 2cd 1806. Not any occurrence today worthy of notice; but all are pleased, that one month of the time which binds us to Fort Clatsop and which seperates us from our friends has now elapsed. one of the games of amusement and wrisk of the Indians of this neighbourhood like that of the Sosones consists in hiding in the hand some small article about the size of a bean; this they throw from one hand to the other with great dexterity accompanying their opperations with a particular song which seems to have been addapted to the game; when the individul who holds the peice has amused himself sufficiently by exchanging it from one hand to the other, he hold out his hands for his compettitors to guess which hand contains the peice; if they hit on the hand which contains the peice they win the wager otherwise loose. the individual who holds the peice is a kind of banker and plays for the time being against all the others in the room; when he has lost all the property which he has to venture, or thinks proper at any time, he transfers the peice to some other who then also becoms banker. The Sosone and Minnetares &c have a game of a singular kind but those divide themselves in two parties and play for a common wager to which each individual contributes to form the stock of his party. one of them holdes the peice and some one of the opposite party gesses which hand contains if he hits on the hand which contains it the peice is transferred to the opposite party and the victor counts one, if he misses the party still retain the peice and score one but the individual tranfers the peice to some other of his own party; the game is set to any number they think proper, and like the natives of this quarter they always accompany their opperations with a particular song. the natives here have also another game which consists in bowling some small round peices about the size of Bacgammon men, between two small upright sticks placed a few inches asunder, but the principals of the game I have not learn not understanding their language sufficiently to obtain an explanation. their boys amuse themselves with their bows and arrows as those do of every Indian nation with which I am acquainted. these people are excessively fond of their games of risk and bet freely every species of property of which they are possessed. They have a smal dog which they make usefull only in hunting the Elk.
Sunday, February 2, 1806. There’s nothing noteworthy happening today, but everyone is happy that one month of our time bound to Fort Clatsop, and away from our friends, has now passed. One of the local games of fun and risk among the Indians, like that of the Sosones, involves hiding a small item about the size of a bean in one hand; they skillfully toss it between their hands while singing a specific song that seems tailored to the game. When the person holding the item feels they've entertained themselves enough by switching it between hands, they extend their hands for their opponents to guess which one holds the item. If they pick the right hand, they win the bet; if not, they lose. The person holding the item acts as a sort of banker and competes against everyone else in the room. When they’ve lost all they’re willing to wager, or choose to quit, they pass the item to someone else who then becomes the new banker. The Sosone and Minnetaree, among others, have a unique game where they split into two teams and play for a shared wager, contributing to a common pool. One player hides the item, and a member from the opposing team guesses which hand it’s in. If they guess right, the item goes to their team and they score one point; if they guess wrong, the item stays with the original team, and they also score one point, transferring the item to another player on their team. The game can go on for any number of rounds they decide, and like the locals here, they always sing a specific song while they play. The natives also have another game that involves rolling small round pieces the size of backgammon men between two small upright sticks a few inches apart, but I haven’t learned the rules since I don’t understand their language well enough to ask for an explanation. Their boys enjoy playing with bows and arrows just like boys in other Indian nations I know. These people are very fond of their games of chance and bet freely on all kinds of possessions they own. They have a small dog that is useful primarily for hunting elk.
[Clark, February 2, 1806]
Sunday February 2nd 1806 Not any accurrence to day worthy of notice; but all are pleased, that one month of the time which binds us to fort Clatsop, and which Seperates us from our friends, has now alapsed.
Sunday, February 2nd, 1806. Nothing noteworthy happened today, but everyone is happy that one month of our time at Fort Clatsop—separating us from our friends—has now passed.
The games of amusements of the natives of this neighbourhood are Several, one of which is verry similar to one which the Sosone's & Minatare's are verry fond of and frequently play. they devide themselves into two parties and play for a common wager to which each individual Contributes to form the Stock of his party, one of them holdes the piece which is usually about the Size of a Bean, and Some one of the oposit party gesses which hand Contains, if he hits on the hand which Contains it, the piece is transfired to the opposit party and the victor Counts one, if he misses the party Still retains the piece and scores one, but the individual transfirs the piece to Some one of his own party; the game is Set to any number they think proper. they always accompany their opperations with a particular Song. The amusements of the boys of all nations which I am acquainted with are generally the Bows and arrows.
The local games played by the natives here are quite a few, one of which is very similar to a game that the Sosone and Minatare tribes enjoy and play frequently. They split into two teams and play for a common pot that each person contributes to build up their team’s stake. One player holds a piece, usually about the size of a bean, and someone from the opposing team tries to guess which hand it’s in. If they guess correctly, the piece is transferred to the other team, and the winner gets a point. If they guess incorrectly, the original team keeps the piece and scores a point instead, but the player passes the piece to someone on their own team. The game can go on for as many rounds as they decide. They always sing a specific song while they play. The games that boys from all the cultures I know generally play involve bows and arrows.
All nations of Indians with which I am acquainted are excessive fond of their games of risk, and bet away Species of property of which they are possessed.
All the Indian nations I know are really into their gambling games and bet away various types of property they own.
The nativs of this neighbourhood have a Small Dog which they make usefull only in hunting the Elk.
The locals in this neighborhood have a small dog that they only use for hunting elk.
[Lewis, February 3, 1806]
Monday February 3rd 1806. About three o'clock Drewyer and La Page, returned; Drewyer had killed seven Elk in the point below us, several miles distant but can be approached with in 3/4 of a mile with canoes by means of a small creek which discharges itself into the bay on this side of the Clatsop village direct Sergt. pryor to go in quest of the meat, the wind was so high that they were unable to set out untill a little before sunset, when they departed; at 10 P.M. they return excessively could and informed us that they could not make land on this side of the bay nor get into the creek in consequence of the tide being out and much lower than usual. we are apprehensive that the Clatsops who know where the meat is will rob us of a part if not the whole of it. at half after 4 P.M. Sergt Gass returned with his party, they brought with them the flesh of four other Elk which the hunters had found, being a part of the ten which were killed up the Netul river the other day. he left R. Fields, Shannon and Labuish to continue the hunt and made an appointment to return to them on Friday. late in the evening the four men who had been sent to assist the saltmakers in transporting meat which they had killed to their camp, also returned, and brought with them all the salt which had been made, consisting of about one busshel only. with the means we have of boiling the salt water we find it a very tedious opperation, that of making salt, notwithstanding we keep the kettles boiling day and night. we calculate on three bushels lasting us from hence to our deposits of that article on the Missouri.
Monday, February 3rd, 1806. Around three o'clock, Drewyer and La Page returned; Drewyer had killed seven elk at a point several miles away, but it can be reached within three-quarters of a mile by canoe via a small creek that flows into the bay on this side of Clatsop village. Sergeant Pryor was sent to get the meat, but the wind was so strong that they couldn't leave until just before sunset. They set off then, and at 10 P.M. they returned extremely cold and told us they couldn't reach land on this side of the bay or get into the creek because the tide was out and much lower than usual. We're worried that the Clatsops, who know where the meat is, will steal some if not all of it. At 4:30 P.M., Sergeant Gass came back with his group, bringing the meat of four other elk that the hunters had found, part of the ten that were killed up the Netul River the other day. He left R. Fields, Shannon, and Labuish to keep hunting and arranged to return to them on Friday. Later in the evening, the four men who had been sent to help the salt-makers transport the meat they had killed back to their camp also returned, bringing all the salt they had made, which amounted to about one bushel. With the methods we have for boiling the saltwater, we find the process of making salt very tedious, even though we keep the kettles boiling day and night. We estimate that three bushels will last us from here to where we have stored that item in Missouri.
[Clark, February 3, 1806]
Monday February 3rd 1806 About 3 oClock Drewyer & Lapage returned, Drewyer had killed Seven Elk in the point below us, Several miles distant, but Can be approached within 3/4 of a mile with Canoes by means of a Small Creak which discharges itself into the Bay, on this Sid of the Clatsop Village. Directed Serjt. Pryor to go in quest of the meat, the winds was So high that they were unable to Set out until) a little before Sunset, when they departed; at 10 P.M. they returned excessively Cold and informed us that they could not make land on this Side of the bay or get into the Creek in consequence of the tides being out and much lower than usial. we are apprehensive that the Clatsops knowing where the meat is, will rob us of a part if not the whole of it. at half after 4 P. M Sergt. Gass returned with his party they brought with them the flesh of 4 other Elk which the hunters had found, being part of the 10 which were killed up the Netul river the other day. He left Ro. Field, Shannon & Labiesh to Continue the hunt, and made an appointment to return to them on friday. late in the evening the four men who had been Sent to assist the Saltmakers in transporting meat which they had killed to their Camp also returned, and brought with them all the Salt which had been made, consisting of about one Sushel only. with the means we have of boiling the Salt water we find it a very tegious opperation that of makeing Salt, notwithstanding the Kitties are kept boiling day and night. we Calculate on three bushels lasting us from hiere to our deposit of that article on the Missouri.
Monday, February 3rd, 1806 About 3:00 PM, Drewyer and Lapage returned. Drewyer had killed seven elk at a point several miles away, but we can get close, within ¾ of a mile, using canoes via a small creek that flows into the bay on this side of the Clatsop village. I instructed Sergeant Pryor to go get the meat, but the winds were so strong that they couldn't leave until a little before sunset. They set out and returned at 10 PM, extremely cold, informing us that they couldn't reach land on this side of the bay or get into the creek due to the tide being out and much lower than usual. We are worried that the Clatsops, knowing where the meat is, might steal some or all of it. At about 4:30 PM, Sergeant Gass returned with his party, bringing back the meat from four other elk that the hunters had found, which were part of the ten that were killed on the Netul River the other day. He left Ro. Field, Shannon, and Labiesh to continue the hunt and made plans to return to them on Friday. Late in the evening, the four men who had been sent to help the saltmakers transport the meat they had killed back to their camp also returned and brought all the salt that had been made, which amounted to about one bushel. With the means we have to boil the saltwater, we find making salt a very tedious operation, even though the kettles are kept boiling day and night. We expect that three bushels will last us from here to our supply of that item in Missouri.
[Lewis, February 4, 1806]
Tuesday February 4th 1806. Sergt. Pryor with a party of five men set out again in quest of the Elk which Drewyer had killed. Drewyer and La Page also returned to continue the chase in the same quarter. the Elk are in much better order in the point near the praries than they are in the woody country arround us or up the Netul. in the praries they feed on grass and rushes, considerable quantities of which are yet green and succulet. in the woody country their food is huckle berry bushes, fern, and an evergreen shrub which resembles the lore) in some measure; the last constitutes the greater part of their food and grows abundantly through all the timbered country, particularly the hillsides and more broken parts of it. There are sveral species of fir in this neighbourhood which I shall discribe as well as my slender botanicall skit will enable me and for the convenience of comparison with each other shal number them. (No 1.) a species which grows to immence size; very commonly 27 feet in the girth six feet above the surface of the earth, and in several instances we have found them as much as 36 feet in the girth or 12 feet diameter perfectly solid and entire. they frequently rise to the hight of 230 feet, and one hundred and twenty or 30 of that hight without a limb. this timber is white and soft throughout and rives better than any other species which we have tryed. the bark skales off in irregula rounded flakes and is of a redish brown colour particularly of the younger growth. the stem of this tree is simple branching, ascending, not very defuse, and proliferous. the leaf of this tree is acerose, 1/10th of an Inch in width, and 3/4 of an Inch in length; is firm, stif and accuminate; they are triangular, a little declining, thickly scattered on all sides of the bough, but rispect the three uppersides only and are also sessile growing from little triangular pedestals of soft spungy elastic bark. at the junction of the boughs, the bud-scales continue to incircle their rispective twigs for several yeas; at least three years is common and I have counted as many as the growth of four years beyond these scales. this tree affords but little rosin. it's cone I have not yet had an opportunity to discover altho I have sought it frequently; the trees of this kind which we have felled have had no cones on them.
Tuesday, February 4th, 1806. Sergeant Pryor and a group of five men set out again to find the elk that Drewyer had killed. Drewyer and La Page also returned to continue the pursuit in the same area. The elk are in much better condition in the spot near the prairies than in the wooded areas around us or up the Netul. In the prairies, they graze on grass and rushes, a significant amount of which is still green and succulent. In the wooded areas, their food consists of huckleberry bushes, ferns, and an evergreen shrub that somewhat resembles laurel; the latter makes up most of their diet and grows abundantly throughout the timbered region, especially on hillsides and more rugged terrains. There are several species of fir in this area that I will describe as best as my limited botanical knowledge allows, and for the sake of comparison, I will number them. (No. 1) A species that grows to an immense size; it's commonly 27 feet in circumference six feet above the ground, and in several instances, we've found them as much as 36 feet in circumference or 12 feet in diameter, perfectly solid and intact. They often rise to a height of 230 feet, and one hundred and twenty or thirty of that height without any limbs. This timber is white and soft throughout and splits better than any other species we've tried. The bark sheds in irregular rounded flakes and is a reddish-brown color, especially on the younger growth. The trunk of this tree is simply branched, upright, not very spreading, and prolific. The leaves are needle-like, 1/10th of an inch wide and 3/4 of an inch long; they are firm, stiff, and taper to a point; they are triangular, slightly angled, thickly scattered on all sides of the branch but respect only the three upper sides and are also sessile, growing from small triangular bases of soft, spongy, elastic bark. At the junction of the branches, the bud scales continue to encircle their respective twigs for several years; at least three years is common, and I have counted as many as four years beyond these scales. This tree produces very little resin. I have not yet had the chance to discover its cone, even though I have looked for it often; the trees of this type we've cut down have not had any cones on them.
[Clark, February 4, 1806]
Tuesday February 4th 1806 Serjt. Pryor with a party of 5 men Set out again in quest of the Elk which Drewyer had Killed. Drewyer also returned to continue the Chase in the Same quarter. the Elk are in much better order in the point near the praries than they are in the woodey Country around us or up the Netul. in the praries they feed on grass and rushes, which are yet green. in the woddey Countrey their food is huckleberry bushes, fern, and the Shal-lon an evergreen Shrub, which resembles the Lorel in Some measure; the last constitutes the greater part of their food and grows abundant through all the timbered Country, particularly the hill Sides and more broken parts of it. There are Several Species of Fir in this neighbourhood which I shall discribe as well as my botanicale Skill will enable me, and for the Convenience of Comparrison with each other Shall number them. (No. i,) a Species which grows to an emence size; verry commonly 27 feet in Surcumferonce at 6 feet above the surface of the earth, and in Several instances we have found them as much as 36 feet in the Girth, or 12 feet Diameter perfectly Solid & entire. they frequently rise to the hight of 230 feet, and 120 or 30 of that hight without a limb. this timber is white and Soft throughout and rives better than any other Species we have tried the bark Shales off in arregular rounded flakes and is of a redish brown Colour, particularly of the younger growth, the Stem of this tree is simple branching, assending, not very defuse, and proliferous, the leaf of this tree is accerose 1/2 a line in width, and 3/4 of an inch in length; is firm Stiff and accuminate; they are triangular, little declineing, thickly scattered on all Sides of the Bough, but respect the three upper Sides only Growing from little triangular pedistals of Soft Spungy Elastic bark. at the junction of these bough's, the bud-scales continue to incircle the respective twigs for several years; at least 3 years is common and I have counted as maney as the groth of 4 years beyond these Scales. this tree affords but little rozin. it's cone I have not yet had an oppertunity to discover altho I have Sought it frequently; the trees of this kind which we have fell'd have had no cones on them.
Tuesday, February 4th, 1806. Sergeant Pryor and a team of five men set out again to find the elk that Drewyer had killed. Drewyer also returned to continue the hunt in the same area. The elk are in much better condition in the spot near the prairies than they are in the wooded country around us or up the Netul. In the prairies, they feed on grass and rushes, which are still green. In the wooded country, their food consists of huckleberry bushes, ferns, and the Shal-lon, an evergreen shrub that somewhat resembles laurel; the last makes up most of their diet and grows abundantly throughout all the forested areas, particularly on the hillsides and in more rugged parts. There are several species of fir in this area that I will describe to the best of my botanical ability, and for the sake of comparison, I will number them. (No. 1) A species that grows to an immense size; it is very often 27 feet in circumference 6 feet above the ground, and in some cases, we have found them as much as 36 feet in girth, or 12 feet in diameter, perfectly solid and intact. They frequently reach heights of 230 feet, with 120 or 130 feet of that height without a limb. This timber is white and soft throughout and splits better than any other species we've tried. The bark sheds in irregular, rounded flakes and is a reddish-brown color, especially in the younger growth. The trunk of this tree is simple, branching upward, not very diffuse, and proliferous. The leaves are needle-like, half a line wide, and three-quarters of an inch long; they are firm, stiff, and pointed; they are triangular, slightly declining, and densely scattered on all sides of the branch, but primarily grow from the three upper sides, originating from small triangular pedestals of soft, spongy, elastic bark. At the junction of these branches, the bud scales continue to encircle the respective twigs for several years; at least three years is common, and I have counted as many as four years’ growth beyond these scales. This tree produces very little resin. I have not yet had the opportunity to find its cone, although I have looked for it frequently; the trees of this kind that we have felled have had no cones on them.
[Lewis, February 5, 1806]
Wednesday February 5th 1806. Late this evening one of the hunters fired his gun over the swamp of the Netul opposite to the fort and hooped. I sent sergt. Gass and a party of men over; the tide being in, they took advantage of a little creek which makes up in that direction nearly to the highlands, and in their way fortunately recovered our Indian Canoe, so long lost and much lamented. The Hunter proved to be Reubin Fields, who reported that he had killed six Elk on the East side of the Netul a little above us; and that yesterday he had heard Shannon and Labuishe fire six or seven shots after he had seperated from them and supposed that they had also killed several other Elk. Filds brought with him a phesant which differed but little from those common to the Atlantic states; it's brown is reather brighter and more of a redish tint. it has eighteen feathers in the tale of about six inches in length. this bird is also booted as low as the toes. the two tufts of long black feathers on each side of the neck most conspicuous in the male of those of the Atlantic states is also observable in every particular with this.—Fir No. 2 is next in dignity in point of size. it is much the most common species, it may be sad to constitute at least one half of the timber in this neighbourhood. it appears to be of the spruse kind. it rises to the hight of 160 to 180 feet very commonly and is from 4 to 6 feet in diameter, very streight round and regularly tapering. the bark is thin of a dark colour, and much divided with small longitudinal intersticies; that of the boughs and young trees is somewhat smoth but not so much so as the balsom fir nor that of the white pine of our country. the wood is white throughout and reather soft but very tough, and difficult to rive. The trunk of this tree is a simple branching diffused stem and not proliferous as the pines & firs usially are but like most other trees it puts forth buds from the sides of the small boughs as well as their extremities. the stem usually terminates in a very slender pointed top like the cedar. The leaves are petiolate, the footstalk small short and oppressed; acerose reather more than half a line in width and very unequal in length, the greatest length being little more than half an inch, while others intermixed on every part of the bough are not more than a 1/4 in length. flat with a small longitudinal channel in the upper disk which is of a deep green and glossey, while the uder disk is of a whiteish green only; two ranked, obtusely pointed, soft and flexable. this tree affords but little rosin. the cone is remarkably small not larger than the end of a man's thumb soft, flexable and of an ovate form, produced at the ends of the small twigs.
Wednesday, February 5th, 1806. Late this evening, one of the hunters fired his gun over the Netul swamp opposite the fort and called out. I sent Sergeant Gass and a group of men over; with the tide in, they used a small creek that leads in that direction almost up to the highlands, and along the way, they fortunately recovered our Indian canoe, which had been lost and much missed. The hunter turned out to be Reubin Fields, who reported that he had killed six elk on the east side of the Netul a little above us, and that yesterday he had heard Shannon and Labuishe fire six or seven shots after he had separated from them, assuming they had also killed several more elk. Fields brought back a pheasant that was very similar to those common in the Atlantic states; its brown color is a bit brighter and has a reddish tint. It has eighteen feathers in its tail, which is about six inches long. This bird also has feathers that extend down to its toes. The distinctive tufts of long black feathers on each side of the neck, most noticeable in the males of the Atlantic states, are also found in this one. Fir No. 2 is next in size and importance. It’s the most common species and likely makes up at least half of the timber in this area. It seems to belong to the spruce variety. It can typically reach heights of 160 to 180 feet and has a diameter of 4 to 6 feet, growing very straight and tapering regularly. The bark is thin and dark, deeply grooved with small vertical splits; on limbs and younger trees, it's somewhat smooth, but not as much as the balsam fir or the white pine from our region. The wood is white throughout, relatively soft, yet very tough and hard to split. The trunk of this tree has a simple, branching stem and does not proliferate like the typical pines and firs, but like most other trees, it produces buds from the sides of the smaller branches as well as their tips. The stem usually ends in a slender, pointed top like that of the cedar. The leaves are petiolate, with small, short stalks pressed close; they are slightly more than half a line wide and very uneven in length, with the longest being just over half an inch, while others mixed throughout the branches are about a quarter of that length. They are flat with a small longitudinal groove on the upper surface, which is a deep green and glossy, while the underside is a whitish green; they are arranged in two ranks, blunt-tipped, soft, and flexible. This tree produces little resin. The cones are remarkably small, no larger than a man's thumb, soft, flexible, and oval-shaped, appearing at the ends of the small twigs.
[Clark, February 5, 1806]
Wednesday February 5th 1806 Late this evening one of the hunters fired off his gun over the marsh of the Netul opposit to the fort & hhoped. we Sent Sergt. Gass and a party of men over; the tide being in they took advantage of a little Creek which makes up in that direction nearly to the high lands, and in their way fortunately recovered our Indian Canoe So long lost and much lamented. The hunter provd. to be Reubin Field, who reported that he had killed Six Elk on the East Side of the Netul a little above us; and that he had parted with Shannon and Labiesh yesterday after he had herd them fire Six or Seven Shot after he had Seperated from them, and Supposed that they had also killed Several other Elk. Fields brought with him a Pheasant which differs but little from those Common to the United States—Fur No. 2 is next in dignity in point of Size. it is much the most common Species, it may be Said to Constitute one half of the timber of this neigh-bourhood. it appears to be of the Spruce kind. it rises to the higth of 160 or 180 feet very Commonly and is from 4 to 6 feet in diameter, very Streight round and regularly tapering. the bark is thin of a dark colour, and much divided with Small longitudinal interstices; that of the boughs and young trees are Somewhat Smoth but not So much so as the balsom fir, nor that of the white pine of our Countrey. the wood is white throughout and rather Soft but rather tough and dificuelt to rive. The trunk of this tree is Simple branching, deffused Stem and not proliferous as the pine and fir usially are, but like most other trees it puts foth buds from the Sides of the Small boughes as well as from their extremities. the Stem usially termonate in a very slender pointed top like the Cedar. The leaves are petiolate, the footstalk Small Short and oppressed; acerose reather more than 1/2 a line in wedth and very uneaqual in length, the greatest length being a little more than half an inch, while others intermixed on every part of the bough are not more than a 1/4 of an inch in length. flat with a Small longitudinal channel in the upper disk which is of a Deep green and glossy, while the under disk is of a whitish green only; two ranked, obtusely pointed, Soft and flexable. this tree affords but little rosin. the Cone is remarkably Small, not larger than the end of a mans thumb Soft, flexable and of an oval form, produced at the end of a Small twig.
Wednesday, February 5th, 1806 Late this evening, one of the hunters fired his gun over the marsh of the Netul across from the fort, and we hoped for the best. We sent Sergeant Gass and a group of men over; with the tide in, they took advantage of a small creek that leads in that direction nearly to the highlands, and along the way, they fortunately recovered our Indian canoe, which had been lost for a long time and was much missed. The hunter turned out to be Reubin Field, who reported that he had killed six elk on the east side of the Netul, just a bit above us. He said he had parted ways with Shannon and Labiesh yesterday after he heard them shoot six or seven times after they separated, and he assumed they had also killed several more elk. Field brought back a pheasant that looks very similar to those common in the United States. Fur No. 2 is the next most significant in size. It’s by far the most common type and makes up about half of the timber in this area. It appears to be a spruce. It commonly grows to a height of 160 to 180 feet and has a diameter of 4 to 6 feet, standing tall and evenly tapering. The bark is thin, dark-colored, and much divided by small, long splits; the bark of the branches and young trees is somewhat smooth but not as smooth as that of the balsam fir or the white pine from our country. The wood is white throughout, relatively soft but tough and difficult to split. The trunk of this tree branches simply, with a diffuse stem that is not proliferating like pine or fir usually are, but like most other trees, it produces buds from the sides of the small branches as well as from their tips. The stem usually ends in a slender, pointed top like cedar. The leaves are petiolate, with small, short, compressed stems; they are needle-like, measuring more than half a line in width and very uneven in length, with the longest being a little more than half an inch, while others mixed throughout the branches are no more than a quarter-inch long. They are flat, with a small longitudinal groove on the upper side, which is deep green and glossy, while the underside is a whitish-green; they are arranged in two ranks, blunt-tipped, soft, and flexible. This tree produces very little resin. The cone is remarkably small, no larger than the tip of a man's thumb, soft, flexible, and oval-shaped, appearing at the end of a small twig.
[Lewis, February 6, 1806]
Thursday February 6th 1806. Sent Sergts. Gass and Ordway this morning with R. Fields and a party of men to bring in the Elk which Field had killed. Late in the evening Sergt. Pryor returned with the flesh of about 2 Elk and 4 skins the Indians having purloined the ballance of seven Elk which Drewyer killed the other day. I find that there are 2 vilages of Indians living on the N. side of the Columbia near the Marshy Islands who call themselves Wackki-a-cum. these I have hertofore Considered as Cath-lah-mahs. they speak the same language and are the same in every other rispect.
Thursday, February 6th, 1806. I sent Sergeants Gass and Ordway this morning with R. Fields and a group of men to retrieve the elk that Fields had killed. Late in the evening, Sergeant Pryor came back with the meat from about 2 elk and 4 hides, but the Indians had taken the remaining seven elk that Drewyer killed the other day. I discovered that there are 2 villages of Indians living on the north side of the Columbia near the Marshy Islands, who call themselves Wackki-a-cum. I previously thought they were Cath-lah-mahs. They speak the same language and are the same in every other respect.
No. 3 A species of fir which one of my men informs me is precisely the same with that called the balsam fir of Canada. it grows here to considerable size, being from 21/2 to 4 feet in diameter and rises to the hight of eighty or an hundred feet. it's stem is simple branching, ascending and proliferous. it's leaves are sessile, acerose, one 1/8 of an inch in 1/16th of an inch in width, thickly scattered on all sides of the twigs as far as the growth of four preceeding years and rispect the three undersides only the uper side being neglected and the under side but thinly furnished; gibbous, a little declining, obtusely pointed, soft flexible, and the upper disk longitudinally marked with a slight channel; this disk is of a glossy deep green, the under one green tho paler and not glossy. this tree affords considerable quantities of a fine clear arromatic balsam in appearance and taste like the Canadian balsam. smal pustules filled with this balsam rise with a blister like appearance on the body of the tree and it's branches; the bark which covers these pustules is soft thin smoth and easily punctured. the bark of the tree generally is thin of a dark brown colour and reather smooth tho not as much so as the white pine of our county. the wood is white and soft.—(No. 4) is a species of fir which in point of size is much that of No. 2. the stem simple branching ascending and proliferous; the bark of a redish dark brown and thicker than that of No. 3. it is divided with small longitudinal interstices, but these are not so much ramifyed as in species No. 2. the leaves with rispect to their position in regard to each other is the same with the balsam fir, as is the leaf in every other rispect except that it not more than 2/3ds the width and little more than half the length of the other, nor is it's upper disk of so deep a green nor so glossey. it affords no balsam and but little rosin. the wood also white soft and reather porus tho tough.—No 5. is a species of fir which arrives to the size of Nos. 2 and 4, the stem simple branching, diffuse and proliferous. the bark thin, dark brown, much divided with small longitudinal interstices and sometimes scaleing off in thin rolling flakes. it affords but little rosin and the wood is redish white 2/3ds of the diameter in the center, the ballance white, somewhat porus and tough. the twigs are much longer and more slender than in either of the other species. the leaves are acerose, 1/20th of an inch in width, and an inch in length, sessile, inserted on all sides of the bough, streight, their extremities pointing obliquely toward the extremities of the bough and more thickly placed than in either of the other species; gibbous and flexeable but more stif than any except No. 1 and more blontly pointed than either of the other species; the upper disk has a small longitudinal channel and is of a deep green tho not so glossy as the balsam fir, the under disk is of a pale green.—No. 65 the white pine; or what is usually so called in Virginia. I see no difference between this and that of the mountains in Virginia; unless it be the uncommon length of cone of this found here, which are sometimes 16 or 18 inches in length and about 4 inches in circumpherence. I do not recollect those of virginia perfectly but it strikes me that they are not so long. this species is not common I have only seen it but in one instance since I have been in this neighbourhood which was on the border of Haley's bay on the N. side of the Columbia near the Ocean.
No. 3 A type of fir that one of my team members tells me is exactly the same as the balsam fir found in Canada. It grows quite large here, measuring between 2.5 to 4 feet in diameter and reaching heights of eighty to a hundred feet. Its trunk is straightforward, with branches that ascend and proliferate. The leaves are attached directly to the twig, needle-like, 1/8 of an inch wide and 1/16th of an inch in width, densely spread all around the twigs for the past four years, only the upper side being slightly neglected while the underside is thinly covered; they are rounded, slightly drooping, blunt at the tips, soft, and flexible, with the upper surface marked by a slight channel; this surface is a glossy deep green, while the underside is green but paler and not glossy. This tree produces significant amounts of a fine, clear aromatic balsam that looks and tastes like Canadian balsam. Small pustules filled with this balsam appear on the tree's trunk and branches, giving them a blister-like look; the bark covering these pustules is soft, thin, smooth, and easily punctured. The overall bark of the tree is thin, dark brown, and somewhat smooth, though not as much as the white pine in our area. The wood is white and soft. —(No. 4) is another type of fir that is similar in size to No. 2. Its trunk is simple, with branching that ascends and proliferates; the bark is reddish dark brown and thicker than No. 3. It is lined with small longitudinal splits, but these are not as branching as in species No. 2. The leaves are positioned similarly to those of the balsam fir, matching in nearly every aspect except they are not more than 2/3 of the width and just over half the length of the other leaves; additionally, its upper surface is not as deep green or glossy. It doesn't produce any balsam and has very little rosin. The wood is also white, soft, and somewhat porous but tough. —No. 5 is another fir species that can grow to sizes similar to Nos. 2 and 4, with a straightforward, branching, and spreading trunk. The bark is thin, dark brown, highly divided with small longitudinal splits, and sometimes flakes off in thin, rolling layers. It produces very little rosin, and its wood is reddish white for 2/3 of the diameter at the center, with the balance being white, somewhat porous, and tough. The twigs are longer and more slender than those of the other species. The leaves are needle-like, 1/20th of an inch wide, and an inch long, directly attached to all sides of the branch, straight, with tips pointing slightly towards the ends of the branch and more densely spaced than in the other species; they are gibbous and flexible but stiffer than all except No. 1 and are more bluntly pointed than either of the other species; the upper surface has a minor longitudinal channel and is deep green, though not as glossy as the balsam fir, while the underside is a pale green. —No. 65 is the white pine or what is commonly referred to as such in Virginia. I see no difference between this and that of the mountains in Virginia, except for the unusually long cones found here, which sometimes reach lengths of 16 or 18 inches and about 4 inches in circumference. I don't recall the cones from Virginia perfectly, but it seems to me that they are not as long. This species is not common; I have seen it only once since being in this neighborhood, which was on the edge of Haley's Bay on the north side of the Columbia, near the ocean.
[Clark, February 6, 1806]
Thursday February 6th 1806 Sent Serjt. Gass and party this morning with Ru Field to bring in the Elk which Field had killed. late in the evening Serjt. Pryor returned with the fish of about 2 Elk and four skins the Indians haveing taken the ballance of Seven Elk which Drewyer killed the other day. I find that those people will all Steal.
Thursday, February 6th, 1806 Sent Sergeant Gass and his team this morning with Ru Field to bring in the elk that Field had killed. Late in the evening, Sergeant Pryor returned with about 2 elk and four skins, as the Indians had taken the rest of the seven elk that Drewyer killed the other day. I find that these people will all steal.
No. 3 a Species of fir, which one of my men inform me is presisely the Same with that called the balsam fir of Canada. it grows here to considerable Size, being from 21/2 to 4 feet in diameeter and rises to the hight of 100 or 120 feet. it's Stem is Simple branching assending and proliferous-. it's leaves are cessile, acerose, 1/8 of an inch in length and 1/16 of an inch in width, thickly scattered on all Sides of the twigs as far as the groth of four proceeding years, and respects the three undersides only, the upper Side being neglected and the under Side but thinly furnished; gibbous a little declineing, obtusely pointed, Soft flexable, and the upper disk longitudinally marked with a Slight Channel; this disk is of a glossy deep green, the under one green tho paler and not glossy. This tree affords a considerable quantity of a fine Clear arromatic Balsom in appearance and taste like the Canadian balsom. Small pustuls filled with the balsom rise with a blister like appearance on the body of the tree and it's branches; the bark which covers these pustules is Soft thin Smothe and easily punctured. the bark of the tree is generally thin of a dark brown colour and reather Smooth tho not as much so as the white pine of the U. States the wood is white and Soft.
No. 3 a type of fir, which one of my crew members tells me is exactly the same as the balsam fir found in Canada. It grows here to a considerable size, measuring between 2.5 to 4 feet in diameter and reaching heights of 100 to 120 feet. Its trunk is simple, with branches that ascend and proliferate. Its leaves are sessile, needle-like, about 1/8 of an inch long and 1/16 of an inch wide, densely packed on all sides of the twigs as far back as four years of growth, with only the three undersides being prominent; the upper side is less developed while the underside is only lightly covered; slightly curved, bluntly pointed, soft, flexible, and the upper surface has a slight channel running lengthwise; this surface is a glossy deep green, whereas the underside is green but paler and not glossy. This tree produces a significant amount of a clear, aromatic balsam that looks and tastes like Canadian balsam. Small blisters filled with balsam form on the tree trunk and its branches; the bark covering these blisters is soft, thin, smooth, and easily pierced. The bark of the tree is generally thin, dark brown, and fairly smooth, though not as much as the white pine found in the United States, and the wood itself is white and soft.
No. 4 a Species of fir which in point of Size is much that of No 2,-. the Stem Simple branching assending and proliferous; the bark of a redish dark brown and thicker than that of No. 3. it is devided with Small longitudinal interstices, but these are not So much ramefied as in the Specis No. 2. the leaves with respect to their possition in reguard to each other is the Same with the balsam fir, as is the leaf in every other respect than that, it is not more than 2/3ds the width and little more than half the length of the other, nor is it's upper disk of so deep a green nor glossy. it affords no balsam, and but little rosin. the wood also white Soft and reather porus tho tough-.- No. 5 is a species of fir which arives to the Size of No. 2, and No. 4. the Stem Simple branching, diffuse and proliferous. the bark thin dark brown, much divided with Small longitudinal interstices scaleing off in thin rolling flakes. it affords but little rosin and the wood is redish white 2/3ds of the diamieter in the Center the ballance white Somewhat porus and tough. the twigs are much longer and more slender than in either of the other speceies. the leaves are acerose 1/20 of an inch in width, and an inch in length, sessile, inserted on all Sides of the bough, Streight, their extremities pointing obliquely towards the extremities of the bough and more thickly placed than in either of the other Species; gibbous and flexable but more stiff than any except No. 1 and more blontly pointed than either of the other Species; the upper disk has a Small longitudinal Channel and is of a deep green tho not so Glossy as the balsam fir, the under disk is of a pail green. No. 6 the White pine; or what is usially So Called in Virginia. I see no difference between this and that of the mountains in Virginia; unless it be the uncommon length of the cone of this found here, which are Sometimes 16 or 18 inches in length and about 4 inches in Surcumfrance. I do not recollect those of Virginia, but it Strikes me that they are not So long. this Species is not common I have Seen it only in three instances since I have been in this neighbourhood, I saw a few on Haleys bay on the North Side of the Columbia River, a fiew scattering on the Sea coast to the North on one of which I engraved my name-and Some on the S S E Side of E co la Creek near the Kil a mox nation, at which place I Saw the white & red Cedar
No. 4 is a type of fir that is similar in size to No. 2. The trunk is simple, with upward branching and is profuse. The bark is a reddish-brown, thicker than that of No. 3, and has small longitudinal grooves, though not as extensive as in species No. 2. The leaves are arranged similarly to the balsam fir, but they are only about two-thirds as wide and a little over half as long as the other. The upper side is not as dark green or glossy. It does not produce balsam and very little resin. The wood is white, soft, and somewhat porous, but tough. No. 5 is a fir species that grows to the size of No. 2 and No. 4. The trunk is simple, branching, and spreading. The bark is thin, dark brown, with many small longitudinal grooves that flake off in thin rolls. It produces little resin, and the wood is reddish-white; two-thirds of the diameter in the center and the rest white, somewhat porous, and tough. The twigs are longer and more slender than in either of the other species. The leaves are needle-like, 1/20 of an inch wide, and an inch long, growing directly from all sides of the branch. They are straight, with their tips angled toward the branch ends, and are more densely packed than in the other species. The leaves are rounded and flexible but are stiffer than those of all except No. 1, and they have a blunter tip than the other species. The upper side has a small longitudinal groove and is a deep green, though not as glossy as the balsam fir; the underside is pale green. No. 6 is the white pine, commonly referred to as such in Virginia. I don't see any difference between this and the mountain variety in Virginia, except for the unusually long cones found here, which can be 16 to 18 inches long and about 4 inches in circumference. I don't recall the length of the Virginia cones, but I believe they aren't as long. This species is uncommon; I've only seen it three times since I've been in this area: a few at Haley's Bay on the north side of the Columbia River, a few scattered along the northern coast (one of which I carved my name into), and some on the southeast side of Ecola Creek near the Kilamox nation, where I also saw white and red cedar.
[Lewis, February 7, 1806]
Friday February 7th 1806. This evening Sergt. Ordway and Wiser returned with a part of the meat which R. Fields had killed; the ballance of the party with Sergt. Gass remained in order to bring the ballance of the meat to the river at a point agreed on where the canoe is to meet them again tomorrow morning. This evening we had what I call an excellent supper it consisted of a marrowbone a piece and a brisket of boiled Elk that had the appearance of a little fat on it. this for Fort Clatsop is living in high stile. In this neighbourhood I observe the honeysuckle common in our country I first met with it on the waters of the Kooskooske near the Chopunnish nation, and again below the grand rappids In the Columbian Valley on tidewater. The Elder also common to our country grows in great abundance in the rich woodlands on this side of the rocky Mountains; tho it differs Here in the colour of it's berry, this being of a pale sky blue while that of the U States is a deep perple. The seven bark or nine-bark as it is called in the U States is also common in this quarter. There is a species of huckleberry common to the piny lands from the commencement of the Columbian valley to the seacoast; it rises to the hight of 6 or 8 feet. is a simple branching some what defuse stem; the main body or trunk is cilindric and of a dark brown, while the colateral branches are green smooth, squar, and put forth a number of alternate branches of the same colour and form from the two horizontal sides only. the fruit is a small deep perple berry which the natives inform us is very good. the leaf is thin of a pale green and small being 3/4 of an inch in length and 3/8 in width; oval terminateing more accutely at the apex than near the insertion of the footstalk which is at the base; veined, nearly entire, serrate but so slightly so that it is scarcely perceptible; footstalk short and there position with rispect to each other is alternate and two ranked, proceeding from the horizontal sides of the bough only. The small pox has distroyed a great number of the natives in this quarter. it prevailed about 4 years since among the Clatsops and distroy several hundred of them, four of their chiefs fell victyms to it's ravages. those Clatsops are deposited in their canoes on the bay a few miles below us. I think the late ravages of the small pox may well account for the number of remains of vilages which we find deserted on the river and Sea coast in this quarter.
Friday, February 7th, 1806. Tonight, Sergt. Ordway and Wiser came back with some of the meat that R. Fields had killed; the rest of the group, along with Sergt. Gass, stayed behind to bring the remaining meat to the river at a spot we agreed on, where the canoe will meet them again tomorrow morning. We had what I consider an excellent supper this evening, which consisted of a marrow bone each and a boiled elk brisket that had just a bit of fat on it. For Fort Clatsop, this is quite a lavish meal. In this area, I notice honeysuckle common in our country. I first encountered it on the waters of the Kooskooske near the Chopunnish Nation, and again below the Grand Rapids in the Columbia Valley on tidewater. The elderberry, also common back home, grows in great abundance in the rich woodlands on this side of the Rocky Mountains; however, it differs here in the color of its berries, which are a pale sky blue, while those in the U.S. are a deep purple. The seven-bark, or nine-bark as it’s called in the U.S., is also common here. There’s a species of huckleberry found in the piney lands from the start of the Columbia Valley to the coast; it grows to a height of 6 to 8 feet, with a simple, somewhat sprawling stem. The main trunk is cylindrical and dark brown, while the side branches are green, smooth, square, and grow numerous alternate branches of the same color and shape only from the two horizontal sides. The fruit is a small, deep purple berry that the natives tell us is very tasty. The leaves are thin, pale green, small, measuring ¾ of an inch in length and ⅜ inch in width; they are oval, tapering more sharply at the tip than near where the stem is attached at the base, veined, nearly whole, and only slightly serrated, to the point that it’s hardly noticeable; the stems are short, and their arrangement is alternate and two-ranked, arising only from the horizontal sides of the bough. Smallpox has wiped out a significant number of the natives in this area. It spread about four years ago among the Clatsops and took the lives of several hundred of them, including four of their chiefs. The Clatsops are resting in their canoes on the bay a few miles below us. I believe the recent devastation from smallpox accounts for the many remains of villages we find abandoned along the river and coastline in this area.
[Clark, February 7, 1806]
Friday February 7th 1806 This evening Serjt Ordway and wiser returned with a part of the meat which R. Field had killed; the balance of the Party with Serjt. Gass remained in order to bring the ballance of the meat to the river at a point agreeed on, where the Canoe is to meet them again tomorrow morning. This evening we had what I call an excellent supper it consisted of a marrowbone, a piece of brisket of boiled Elk that had the appearance of a little fat on it. this for Fort Clatsop is liveing in high Stile, and in fact fiesting-.
Friday, February 7th, 1806 This evening, Sergeant Ordway and Wiser returned with some of the meat that R. Field had killed. The rest of the party, along with Sergeant Gass, stayed behind to bring the remaining meat to the river at a prearranged spot where the canoe will meet them again tomorrow morning. Tonight, we had what I consider an excellent supper. It consisted of a marrow bone and a piece of boiled elk brisket that looked a bit fatty. For Fort Clatsop, this is living in style, and indeed, we're feasting.
In this neighbourhood I observe the honeysuckle common in the U States, I first met with it on the waters of the Kooskooske near the Chopunnish Nation, and again below the grand rapids in the Columbian Vally on tide water. The Elder also common to our Countrey grows in great abundance in the rich wood land on this Side of the rocky mountains, tho it differs here in the Colour of its berry, this being of a pale Sky blue while that of the U, States is a deep purple. The Seven or nine bark as it is called in the U, States is also Common in this quarter. There is a Species of huckkleberry Common to the piney lands from the Commencement of the Columbian Vally to the Sea coast; it rises to the hight of 6 or 8 feet, is a Simple branching, Somewhat defused Stem; the main body or trunk is cilindric branches are green Smothe squar, and put foth a number of alternet branches of the Same Colour and form from the two horizontal Sides only. the frute is a small deep purple berry which the nativs inform us is very good, the leaf is thin of a pale green and Small being 3/4 of an inch in length and 3/8 in width; oval terminateing more accoutely at the apax, than near the insersion of the footstalk which is at the base vened nearly entire; footstalks Short and their position in respect to each other is alternate and too ranked, proceeding from the horizontal Side of the bough only.
In this neighborhood, I notice the honeysuckle that's common in the U.S. I first encountered it by the waters of the Kooskooske near the Chopunnish Nation, and again below the grand rapids in the Columbia Valley along the tidewater. The elderberry, also common in our country, grows abundantly in the rich woodlands on this side of the Rocky Mountains, although it differs here in the color of its berries; here, they are a pale sky blue while in the U.S. they are a deep purple. The ninebark, as it is called in the U.S., is also common in this area. There is a species of huckleberry common to the piney lands from the beginning of the Columbia Valley to the coast; it grows to a height of 6 to 8 feet, with a simple, branching, somewhat sprawling stem. The main trunk is cylindrical, the branches are green and smooth, and sprout a number of alternate branches of the same color and form from only the two horizontal sides. The fruit is a small, deep purple berry, which the natives tell us is very tasty. The leaves are thin, pale green, and small, measuring about ¾ of an inch in length and ⅜ in width; they are oval, tapering more sharply at the tip than near the base where they attach to the stem, which is nearly entire. The petioles are short and their arrangement in relation to each other is alternate and two-ranked, coming only from the horizontal side of the branch.
The Small Pox had distroyed a great number of the nativs in this quarter. it provailed about 4 or 5 yrs Sinc among the Clatsops, and distroy'd Several hundreds of them, four of their Chiefs fell a victym to it's ravages. these Clatsops are Deposited in their Canoes on the bay a fiew miles below us. I think the late ravages of the Small Pox, may well account for the number of remains of villages which I Saw on my rout to the Kil a mox in Several places-.
The smallpox wiped out a significant number of the natives in this area. It lasted about four or five years among the Clatsops and killed several hundred of them; four of their chiefs fell victim to its devastation. The Clatsops are buried in their canoes in the bay a few miles below us. I believe the recent devastation from smallpox could explain the number of village remains I saw on my way to the Kilamox in several places.
[Lewis, February 8, 1806]
Saturday February 8th 1806. Sent Sergt. Ordway and two men this morning to join the party with Sergt. Gass and bring the ballance of R. Fields's Elk. in the evening they returned with the balance of the flesh of five Elk, that of one of them having become tainted and unfit for uce. late in the evening Sergt. Pryor returned with Shannon Labuish and his party down the Netul. they brought with them the flesh of 4 Elk which those two hunters had killed. we have both dined and suped on Elk's tongues and marrow bones.
Saturday, February 8, 1806. I sent Sergeant Ordway and two men this morning to meet up with Sergeant Gass and bring back the rest of R. Fields's elk. In the evening, they returned with the remainder of the meat from five elk, but one of them had spoiled and was no longer good for use. Later that evening, Sergeant Pryor came back with Shannon Labuish and his team down the Netul. They brought with them the meat of four elk that those two hunters had killed. We had elk tongues and marrow bones for both dinner and supper.
I have discovered that the shrub and fruit discribed on the 26th of January is not that which the Indians call the Shal-lon, but that is such as is there discribed, and the berry is estemed and used by the natives as there mentioned except that it is not like the shallon, baked in large loaves, but is simply dryed in the sun for winter uce, when they either eat them in thir dryed state or boil them in water. The Shallon is the production of a shrub which I have heretofore taken to be a speceis of loral and mentioned as abounding in this neighbourhood and that the Elk fed much on it's leaves. it generally rises to the hight of 3 feet but not unusually attains to that of 5 feet. it grows very thick and is from the size of a goos quill to that of a man's thumb, celindric, the bark of the older or larger part of the stock is of a redish brown colour while that of the younger branches and succulent shoots are red where most exposed to the sun and green elsewhere. the stem is simple branching reclining, and partially fluxouse, or at least the smaler stocks or such parts of them and the boughs as produce the leaves, take a different direction at the insertion of every petiole. the leaf is oval four & 3/4 inches in length and 21/2 in width. petiolate, the petiole short only 3/8th of an inch in length, celindric with a slight channel on it's upper side where it is generally red; undivided or entire, slightly serrate, the apex termineating in an accute point; the upper disk of a glossey deep green, the under disk of a pale green; veined. the leaves are also alternate and two ranked. the root is horizontal puting forth perpendicular radicles. this shrub is an evergreen. the fruit is a deep perple berry about the size of a buck short or common black cherry, of an ovate form tho reather more bluntly pointed, than at the insertion of the peduncle; at the extremity, the thin coloured membranous pellicle, which forms the surface of the pericarp, is divided into five accute angular points, which meet in the center, and contains a soft pulp of the same colour invelloping a great number of small brown kidney formed seeds. each berry is supported by a seperate celindric peduncle of half an inch in length; these to the number of ten or twelve issue from a common peduncle or footstalk which is fuxouse and forms the termination of the twig of the present years growth; each peduncle supporting a berry is furnished with one oblong bracte placed at it's insertion on the common footstalk which when the fruit is ripe withers with the peduncle.
I’ve found that the shrub and fruit described on January 26th isn’t what the Native Americans call Shal-lon, but it is what’s described there. The berry is valued and used by the locals as mentioned, except it isn’t baked into large loaves like shallon; instead, it’s just dried in the sun for winter use. They eat it in its dried state or boil it in water. The shallon comes from a shrub that I previously thought was a type of laurel, noted for its abundance in our area, and that the elk often feed on its leaves. It typically grows to about 3 feet tall but can reach up to 5 feet. The shrub grows densely, with stems that are as thick as a goose quill to the size of a thumb. The bark of the older, larger parts is a reddish-brown color, while the younger branches and tender shoots are red where exposed to the sun and green elsewhere. The stem is simple, branching, and bends downward, and the smaller stems or parts that produce leaves grow in different directions at the base of each petiole. The leaves are oval, about 4¾ inches long and 2½ inches wide, with a short petiole of only ⅜ inch in length, cylindrical with a slight groove on the upper side where it’s generally red. The leaves are entire, slightly serrated, ending in a pointed tip, with the upper side a glossy deep green and the underside a pale green, and they have prominent veins. The leaves are also arranged alternately and in two ranks. The root is horizontal, sending out upright roots. This shrub is an evergreen. The fruit is a deep purple berry, about the size of a buckshot or common black cherry, with an oval shape but more bluntly pointed around the base. At the tip, the thin, colored membrane that covers the surface of the fruit is divided into five pointed angles that converge in the center, containing soft pulp of the same color enveloping many small, brown, kidney-shaped seeds. Each berry is held by a separate cylindrical stem that is half an inch long; there are about ten or twelve of these stemming from a common stalk that is fuzzy and forms the end of the twig from the current year’s growth. Each stem supporting a berry has one oblong bract attached at its base on the common stalk, which withers when the fruit is ripe.
[Clark, February 8, 1806]
Saturday February 8th 1806 Sent Serjt. Ordway and two men this morning to joint the party with Serjt. Gass, and bring the ballance of R. Field's Elk. in the evening they returned with the ballance of the flesh of five Elk, that of one of them having become tainted and unfit for use. late in the evening Serjt. Pryor returned with Shannon Labieshe and his party down the Netul. they brought with them the flesh of 4 Elk which those two hunters had killed.
Saturday, February 8, 1806 Sent Sergeant Ordway and two men this morning to join the group with Sergeant Gass and bring back the rest of R. Field's elk. In the evening, they returned with the rest of the meat from five elk, although one of them had gone bad and was no longer usable. Late in the evening, Sergeant Pryor came back with Shannon Labieshe and his group from the Netul. They brought with them the meat from four elk that those two hunters had killed.
we have both Dined and Suped on Elks tongues and marrowbones. a great Luxury for Fort Clatsop.
we have both dined and had supper on elk tongues and marrow bones. a great luxury for Fort Clatsop.
The Shat lon is a production of Shrub which I have taken heretofore to be a Species of Loral and mentioned as abounding in this neighbourhood, and that the Elk feed much on its leaves. it generally rises to the hight of 3 feet, and not unusially attain to that of 5 feet. it grows very thick and is from the size of that of a goose quil to that of a mans thumb, Celendric. the bark of the older or larger part of the Stalk is of a redish brown Colour, whilst that of the younger branches & succulent Shoots are red where most exposed to the Sun and green elsewhere. the Stem is Simple branching, reclineing and partially fuxouse, or at least the Smaller Stalks or Such parts of them and their boughs which produce the leaves, take a different direction at the insertion of every petiole. A, A, the leaves as they grow from the Stalk B. B. B the Stalk between each leaf.
The Shat lon is a plant from the Shrub family that I previously thought was a type of Loral, and I’ve mentioned it as being abundant in this area. The Elk often feed on its leaves. It usually grows to about 3 feet tall and can sometimes reach up to 5 feet. It grows quite densely, with stems ranging from the size of a goose quill to that of a man’s thumb, Celendric. The bark of the older or larger parts of the stem is reddish-brown, while the bark of the younger branches and soft shoots is red where they get the most sun and green in the shade. The stem is simple and branching, leaning and somewhat bushy. The smaller stems and the parts of them that bear leaves change direction at the point where each leaf stalk connects. A, A, the leaves as they grow from the stem B. B. B the stem between each leaf.
The leaf is oval 4 and 3/4 inches in length, and 2 and a half in width. petiolate, the potiale Short only 3/8 of an inch in length cilindric with a Slight Channel on its upper Side where it is generally red; undevided, or entire, Slightly serrate, the apex termonateing in an accute point; the upper disk of a glossy deep Green, the under disk of a pail Green, veined. the leaves are also alternate and two ranked. the root is horozontal, putting foth pirpendicular radicles. This Shrub is an evergreen. the frute is a deep purple berry about the Size of a buck Shot or common black cherry, of an ovale form, tho reather more bluntly pointed than at the insertion of the peduncle, at the extremity, the thin coloured membranus pellicle, which forms the Surfice of the paricarp, is divided into 4 anguar points, which meet at the Center, and Contains a Soft pulp of the Same Colour invelloping a great number of Small brown kidney formed Seedeach berry is Supported by a Seperate celindric peduncle of half an inch in length, these to the number of 10 or 12 issue from a common peduncle of footstalk which forms the termination of the twig of the present years groth; each peduncle Supporting a berry is furnished with one oblong bracte placed at it's insertion on the common footstalk, which when the frute is ripe withers with the peduncle-.
The leaf is oval, 4 and 3/4 inches long and 2 and a half inches wide. It's petiolate, with the petiole only 3/8 of an inch long, cylindrical with a slight channel on its upper side where it’s typically red; undivided or entire, slightly serrate, with the apex terminating in an acute point. The upper surface is a glossy, deep green, while the underside is a pale green with veins. The leaves are also alternate and arranged in two ranks. The root is horizontal, producing perpendicular roots. This shrub is evergreen. The fruit is a deep purple berry about the size of a buckshot or a common black cherry, oval in shape but slightly more bluntly pointed at the stem end. The thin, colored, membranous surface of the pericarp is divided into four angular points that meet at the center and contains soft pulp of the same color enveloping many small, brown, kidney-shaped seeds. Each berry is supported by a separate cylindrical peduncle half an inch long, with 10 to 12 of these issuing from a common peduncle of footstalk, which forms the end of the twig from the current year's growth. Each peduncle supporting a berry has one oblong bract at its insertion on the common footstalk, which withers when the fruit is ripe along with the peduncle.
[Lewis, February 9, 1806]
Sunday February 9th 1806 This morning Collins and Wiser set out on a hunting excurtion; they took our Indian canoe and passed the Netul a little above us. in the evening Drewyer returned; had killed nothing but one beaver. he saw one black bear, which is the only one which has been seen in this neighbourhood since our arrival; the Indians inform us that they are abundant but are now in their holes.
Sunday, February 9th, 1806 This morning, Collins and Wiser headed out on a hunting trip; they took our Indian canoe and passed the Netul a little upstream from us. In the evening, Drewyer came back; he hadn't killed anything except for one beaver. He spotted one black bear, which is the only one that's been seen around here since we arrived; the Indians tell us that they are plentiful but are currently in their dens.
in the marshy ground frequently overflown by the tides there grows a species of fir which I take to be the same of No. 5 which it resembles in every particular except that it is more defusely branched and not so large, being seldom more than 30 feet high and 18 inches or 2 feet in diameter; it's being more defusely branched may proceed from it's open situation seldom growing very close. the cone is 21/2 inches in length and 33/4 in it's greatest circumpherence, which is near it's base, and from which it tapers regularly to a point. it is formed of imbricated scales of a bluntly rounded form, thin not very firm and smoth. a thin leaf is inserted into the pith of the cone, which overlays the center of and extends 1/2 an inch beyond the point of each scale. the form of this leaf is somewhat thus overlaying one of the imbricated scales.
In the marshy ground that is often flooded by the tides, there grows a type of fir that I believe is the same as No. 5, which it resembles in every way except that it has more spread-out branches and isn't as large, typically reaching around 30 feet high and 18 to 24 inches in diameter. Its more spread-out branches might come from its open location, as it doesn’t usually grow very close to other trees. The cone is 2.5 inches long and has a maximum circumference of 3.75 inches near its base, tapering evenly to a point. It is made up of overlapping scales that are bluntly rounded, thin, not very firm, and smooth. A thin leaf is inserted into the core of the cone, which covers the center and extends half an inch beyond the tip of each scale. The shape of this leaf somewhat overlays one of the overlapping scales.
The stem of the black alder of this country before mentioned as arriving to great size, is simply branching and defuse. the bark is smooth of a light colour with white coloured spreading spots or blotches, resembling much that of the beech; the leaf fructification &c is precisely that of the common alder of our country. these trees grow seperately from different roots and not in clusters or clumps as those of the Atlantic states. fearing that our meat would spoil we set six men to jurking it.
The trunk of the black alder I mentioned earlier, which can grow quite large, is simply branched and spread out. The bark is smooth and light-colored with white spots or blotches, resembling that of a beech tree. The leaf and fruiting patterns are exactly the same as the common alder found in our country. These trees grow separately from different roots and not in clusters like those in the Atlantic states. Worried that our meat would spoil, we assigned six men to jerk it.
[Clark, February 9, 1806]
Sunday February 9th 1806 This morning Collins & Wiser Set out on a hunting excurtion; in the evening Drewyer returned; had Killed nothing but one Beaver. he Saw one black Bear, which is the only one which has been seen in the neighbourhood Since our arrival. the Indians inform us that they are abundant but are now in their holes.
Sunday, February 9th, 1806 This morning, Collins and Wiser set out on a hunting trip. In the evening, Drewyer came back; he had killed nothing except for one beaver. He saw one black bear, which is the only one spotted in the area since we arrived. The Indians tell us that they are plentiful but are currently in their dens.
In the marshey grounds frequently overflown by the tides there grows a Species of fir which I took to be the Same of No. 5. from examonation I find it a distinct species of fir. it is more perfusely branched. This tree Seldom rises to a greater hight than 35 or 40 feet and is from 2 to 4 feet in Diamieter; the Bark the Same with that of No. 1. only reather more rugid. the leaf is acerose, 2/10 of an inch in width and 3/4 in length, they are firm Stiff and Somewhat accuminated, ending in a Short pointed hard tendril, gibbous thickly scattered on all Sides of the bough as respects the 3 upper Sides only; those which have their insertion on the underside incline side—wise with their points upwards giveing the leaf the Shape of a Sythe. the others are perpindicular or pointing upwards, growing as in No. 1 from Small triangular pedestals of a Soft Spungy elastic bark. the under disk of these leaves or that which grows nearest to the Base of the bough is of a dark glossy green, while the upper or opposit side is of a whiteish pale green; in this respect differing from almost all leaves. The boughs retain their leaves as far back as almost to the Sixth year's groth. the peculiarity of the budscales observed in No. 1 is obsd. in this Species. The Cone is 31/2 Inches in length, and 3 in circumfranse, of an ovale figure being thickest in the middle and tapering and terminateing in two obtuce points. it composes several flexable, thin, obtusely jointed Smoth and redish brown imbricated scales. each scale Covering two small winged Seed and being itself Covered in the center by a small thin inferior scale accutely pointed. The Cone is Some what of this figure. they proceed from the sides as well as the extremities of the bough, but in the former case allways at or near the Commencement of Some one years groth which in Some instances are as far back as the third year
In the marshy areas often flooded by the tides, there grows a type of fir that I initially thought was the same as No. 5. However, upon examination, I found it to be a distinct species of fir. It has more densely branched growth. This tree rarely reaches a height greater than 35 or 40 feet and has a diameter of 2 to 4 feet. The bark is similar to that of No. 1 but a bit rougher. The leaf is needle-like, 2/10 of an inch wide and 3/4 inch long. They are stiff, firm, and somewhat pointed, ending in a short, sharp tendril, distributed thickly on all sides of the branch with respect to the upper three sides. Those that grow from the underside lean sideways with their points upward, giving the leaf the shape of a scythe. The others are vertical or pointing upward, growing as in No. 1 from small triangular bases of soft, spongy, elastic bark. The underside of these leaves, which is closest to the base of the branch, is a dark glossy green, while the upper side is a pale whitish green, distinguishing them from almost all other leaves. The branches keep their leaves for nearly up to the sixth year of growth. The unique bud scales noted in No. 1 are also observed in this species. The cone measures 3.5 inches in length and 3 inches in circumference, shaped ovoid with its widest part in the middle, tapering and ending in two blunt points. It consists of several flexible, thin, obtusely jointed, smooth, reddish-brown overlapping scales, each covering two small winged seeds and itself covered in the center by a small, thin, sharp point. The cone has this shape and grows from the sides as well as the ends of the branch, but in the case of the sides, it always occurs at or near the beginning of a year's growth, which in some instances can be as far back as the third year.
The Stem of the Black Alder of this countrey before mentioned as ariveing at great Size, is Simple branching and defuse. the bark is Smoth of a light Colour with white Coloured Spredding Spots or blotches, resembling much that of beech. the leaf is procisely that of the Common alder of the United States or Virginia. those trees grow Seperately from different roots and not in Clusters or Clumps, as those of the atlantic States, casts its folage about the 1st of December.
The stem of the Black Alder in this country mentioned earlier grows to a large size and branches out widely. The bark is smooth and light in color, with white spreading spots or blotches, similar to that of the beech tree. The leaves are exactly like those of the Common Alder found in the United States or Virginia. These trees grow separately from distinct roots and not in clusters or groups, unlike those in the Atlantic States, and shed their leaves around December 1st.
Fearing that our meat would Spoil we Set Six men to jurking it to day, which they are obliged to perform in a house under shelter from the repeated rains.
Fearing that our meat would spoil, we set six men to jerk it today, which they have to do in a house sheltered from the ongoing rains.
[Lewis, February 10, 1806]
Monday February 10th 1806. Drewyer visited his traps today but caught no beaver. Collins and Wiser returned had killed no Elk. Willard arrived late in the evening from the Saltworks, had cut his knee very badly with his tommahawk. he had killed four Elk not far from the Salt works the day before yesterday, which he had butched and took a part of the meat to camp, but having cut his knee was unable to be longer ucefull at the works and had returned. he informed us that Bratton was very unwell, and that Gibson was so sick that he could not set up or walk alone and had desired him to ask us to have him brought to the Fort. Coalter also returned this evening. continue the operation of drying our meat.
Monday, February 10th, 1806. Drewyer checked his traps today but didn’t catch any beaver. Collins and Wiser came back without any elk. Willard arrived late in the evening from the Saltworks and had badly cut his knee with his tomahawk. He had killed four elk not far from the Saltworks the day before yesterday, which he had butchered and brought some of the meat to camp, but due to his knee injury, he could no longer be helpful at the works and had to come back. He informed us that Bratton was very unwell and that Gibson was so sick he couldn’t sit up or walk alone and had asked him to request that we bring him to the Fort. Coalter also returned this evening. We continue the process of drying our meat.
There is a tree common to the Columbia river below the entrance of cataract river which in it's appearance when divested of it's foliage, much resembles the white ash; the appearance of the wood and bark is also that of the ash. it's stem is simple branching and diffuse. the leaf is petiolate, plane, scattered, palmate lobate, divided by four deep sinuses; the lobes are repand, or terminate in from 3 to 5 accute angular points, while their margins are indented with irregular and somewhat circular incissures. the petiole is celendric smooth and 7 inches long. the leaf 8 inches in length and 12 in bredth. this tree is frequently 3 feet in diameter and rises to 40 or 50 feet high. the fruit is a winged seed somewhate like the maple. in the same part of the country there is also another growth which resembles the white maple in it's appearance, only that it is by no means so large; seldom being more than from 6 to 9 inches in diamater, and from 15 to 20 feet high; they frequently grow in clusters as if from the same bed of roots spreading and leaning outwards. the twigs are long and slender. the stems simple branching. the bark smooth and in colour resembling that of the white maple. the leaf is petiolate, plane, scattered nearly circular, with it's margin cut with accute angular incissures of an inch in length and from six to 8 in number the accute angular points formed by which incissures are crenate, or cut with small accute angular incissures. or in this form. it is 3 inches in length, and 4 in width. the petiole celindric smooth and one and a 1/4 inches long. the fruit or flower not known.
There’s a tree commonly found along the Columbia River just below the mouth of Cataract River that looks a lot like the white ash when it’s stripped of its leaves. The wood and bark also resemble ash. Its trunk is simple, branching, and spreads out. The leaf is petiolate, flat, scattered, and palmately lobed, with four deep indentations; the lobes are wavy and end in 3 to 5 sharp angular points, and their edges are irregular and somewhat circular with notches. The petiole is smooth, cylindrical, and 7 inches long. The leaf measures 8 inches long and 12 inches wide. This tree often has a diameter of about 3 feet and can grow to be 40 or 50 feet tall. The fruit is a winged seed similar to a maple’s. In the same region, there’s also another tree that looks like the white maple, but it’s not nearly as big; it usually has a diameter of only 6 to 9 inches and grows 15 to 20 feet tall. They often grow in clusters, appearing as if they derive from the same root system, spreading and leaning outward. The twigs are long and slender, the trunks are simply branched, and the bark is smooth with a color resembling that of the white maple. The leaf is petiolate, flat, nearly circular, with edges featuring sharp angular notches about an inch long, typically numbering six to eight. The sharp angular points formed by these notches are scalloped, or have small sharp notches. In this form, the leaf is 3 inches long and 4 inches wide. The petiole is smooth, cylindrical, and 1¼ inches long. The fruit or flower is unknown.
[Clark, February 10, 1806]
Monday February 10th 1806 Collins and Wiser returned without killing any Elk. Willard arrived late this evening from the Salt Camp, he had cut his knee very badly with his tomahawk. he had killed four Elk not far from the Salt Camp, the day before yesterday, which he had butchered and took a part of the meat to the Camp, but haveing Cut his Knee was unable to be longer Servisable at the works & had returned. he informed us that Bratten was very unwell, and that Gibson was So Sick that he could not Set up or walk alone, and had desired him to ask us to have him brought to the Fort. Colter also returnd. this evening. continue the opperation of dryin our meat.
Monday, February 10th, 1806: Collins and Wiser came back without any elk. Willard arrived late this evening from the Salt Camp; he had badly cut his knee with his tomahawk. He had killed four elk not far from the Salt Camp two days ago, which he butchered and took a part of the meat back to the camp. However, since he cut his knee, he was unable to continue working and had to return. He told us that Bratten was very sick and that Gibson was so ill he couldn't sit up or walk by himself, and he asked Willard to request that we bring him to the Fort. Colter also returned this evening. We continue the operation of drying our meat.
There is a tree common to the Columbia river below the enterance of Cataract River which in its appearance when divested of its folage, much resembles the white ash; the appearance of the wood and bark is also that of the ash. it's Stem is Simple branching and diffuse. the lief is petiolate, plane, scattered palmate lobate, divided by four deep Sinusus; the lobes are repand or terminate in from 3 to 5 accute angular points, while their margins are indented with irregular and Somewhat Circular incissures. the peteole is Celindric Smoth and 7 inches long. the leaf 8 inches in length and 12 in bredth. this tree is frequently 2 & 3 feet in diamieter, and rises to 50 or 60 feet high-the froot is a winged Seed Somewhat like the maple. In the Same part of the countrey there is also another groth, which resembles the white maple in its appearance, only that it is by no means so large, seldom being more than from 6 to 9 inches in diamieter, and from 20 to 30 feet high; they frequently grow in clusters as if from the same bed or root, Spreading and leaning outwards. the twigs are long and Slender. the Stems simple branching. the bark Smoth and in Colour resembles that of the white maple. the leaf is patiolate, plain, scattered nearly circular, with it's margin cut with accute anglar incissures of an inch in length and from 6 to 8 in number, the accute angular points formed, by which incissures, are crenate, or cut with small angular incissures. or in this form. it is 3 inches in length, and 4 in width. the petiole is cilendric smoth and 11/4 inches long. the froot or flour I have not as yet found out &c.
There is a tree common to the Columbia River below the entrance of Cataract River that, when bare, looks a lot like the white ash. The wood and bark also resemble those of the ash. Its trunk is simple, branching, and spreading. The leaves are petiolate, flat, scattered, and palmate lobed, divided by four deep sinuses. The lobes are wavy or end in 3 to 5 sharp points, while their edges are marked with irregular, somewhat circular indentations. The petiole is smooth and cylindrical, about 7 inches long. The leaf measures 8 inches in length and 12 inches in width. This tree often has a diameter of 2 to 3 feet and grows to 50 or 60 feet tall. The fruit is a winged seed somewhat like that of the maple. In the same area, there's also another growth that looks like the white maple but is not nearly as large, usually only 6 to 9 inches in diameter and 20 to 30 feet high. They often grow in clusters as if from the same root, spreading and leaning outward. The twigs are long and slender. The stems are simple and branching. The bark is smooth and resembles the color of white maple. The leaves are petiolate, flat, nearly circular, with margins cut into sharp angular indentations about an inch long and 6 to 8 in number. The sharp points formed by these indentations are crenate, or have small angular notches. The leaf is 3 inches long and 4 inches wide. The petiole is smooth and cylindrical, about 1.25 inches long. I have not yet identified the fruit or flower.
[Lewis, February 11, 1806]
Tuesday February 11th 1806. This morning Sergt. Gass Reubin Fields and Thompson passed the Netul opposite to us on a hunting expedition. sent Sergt Pryor with a party of four men to bring Gibson to the fort. also sent Colter and Wiser to the Salt works to carry on the business with Joseph Fields; as Bratton had been sick we desired him to return to the Fort also if he thought proper; however in the event of his not coming Wiser was directed to return.
Tuesday, February 11th, 1806. This morning, Sergeant Gass, Reubin Fields, and Thompson crossed the Netul River opposite us on a hunting trip. I sent Sergeant Pryor with a team of four men to bring Gibson to the fort. I also sent Colter and Wiser to the salt works to handle things with Joseph Fields; since Bratton had been ill, we asked him to come back to the fort if he thought it was best. However, if he didn’t come, Wiser was instructed to return.
There is a shrub which grows commonly in this neighbourhood which is precisely the same with that in Virginia some times called the quillwood. also another which grows near the water in somewhat moist grounds & rises to the hight of 5 or 6 feet with a large, peteolate spreading plane, crenate and somewhat woolly leaf like the rose raspberry. it is much branched the bark of a redish brown colour and is covered with a number of short hooked thorns which renders it extreemly disagreeable to pass among; it dose not cast it's foliage untill about the 1st of December. this is also the case with the black alder. There is also found in this neighbourhood an evergreen shrub which I take to be another variety of the Shallun and that discribed under that name in mistake on the 26th of January. this shrub rises to the hight of from four to five feet, the stem simple branching, defuse and much branched. the bark is of a redish dark brown, that of the mane stein is somewhat rough while that of the boughs is smooth. the leaves are petiolate the petiole 1/40 of an inch long; oblong, obtuse at the apex and accute angular at the insertion of the petiole; 3/4 of an inch in length and Ysths in width; convex, somewhat revolute, serrate, smoth and of a paler green than the evergreens usually are; they are also opposite and ascending. the fruit is a small deep perple berry like the common huckleberry of a pleasent flavor. they are seperately scattered & attatched to the small boughs by short peduncles.-. the natives eat this berry when ripe but seldom collect it in such quantities as to dry it for winter uce.
There’s a shrub that commonly grows in this neighborhood, which is exactly the same as one found in Virginia, sometimes called quillwood. There's also another shrub that grows near the water in somewhat moist areas, reaching heights of 5 to 6 feet. It has large, spreading leaves that are somewhat woolly and serrated like those of a rose raspberry. This plant is highly branched, with reddish-brown bark covered in numerous short, hooked thorns, making it extremely unpleasant to pass through. It doesn’t lose its leaves until about December 1st, and the same goes for the black alder. Additionally, there's an evergreen shrub in this area that I believe is another variety of the shallun, previously described under that name by mistake on January 26th. This shrub grows to about four to five feet tall, with a simple, spreading, and highly branched stem. Its bark is a dark reddish-brown; the main stem is somewhat rough, while the branches are smooth. The leaves are petiolate, with the petiole being 1/40 of an inch long; they are oblong, blunt at the tip, and sharply angled where they attach to the petiole, measuring 3/4 of an inch long and much wider. They are convex, slightly curled, serrated, smooth, and lighter green than typical evergreens; they grow opposite and upright. The fruit is a small, deep purple berry similar to the common huckleberry, with a pleasant flavor. These berries grow individually and are attached to the smaller branches by short stems. The locals eat these berries when they’re ripe, but they rarely gather them in large enough quantities to dry for winter use.
[Clark, February 11, 1806]
Tuesday February 11th 1806. This Morning Serjt. Gass R. Field and J. Thompson passed the Netul opposit to us on a hunting expedition. Sent Serjeant Natl. Pryor with 4 men in a Canoe to bring gibson to the Fort. also Sent Colter & P. Weser to the Salt works to carry on the business with Jos. Field; as bratten is also Sick we derected that he Should return to the fort if he continued unwell; There is Shrub which grows Commonly in this neighbourhood which grows on the Steep Sides of the hills and also in low moist grounds, and rise to the hight of 5 or 6 feet with a large peteolate, Spreading plain crenate and Somewhat woolly leaf like the rose raspberry. it is much branched the bark of a redish brown colour and is covered with a number of Short hooked thorns which renders it extreamly disagreeable to pass among, it does not cast its foliage untill about the 1st of December.
Tuesday, February 11th, 1806. This morning, Sergeant Gass, R. Field, and J. Thompson crossed the Netul opposite us on a hunting trip. I sent Sergeant Natl. Pryor with four men in a canoe to bring Gibson back to the fort. I also sent Colter and P. Weser to the salt works to continue the work with Jos. Field. Since Bratten is also sick, we directed that he should return to the fort if he didn’t feel better. There’s a shrub that commonly grows in this area, found on the steep sides of hills and in damp low grounds, reaching heights of 5 or 6 feet. It has large, spreading, somewhat woolly leaves with a plain, crenate shape, similar to those of the rose raspberry. It’s highly branched, with reddish-brown bark covered in short, hooked thorns, making it extremely unpleasant to pass through. It doesn’t shed its leaves until around the 1st of December.
There is a Species of bryor which is common in this neighbourhood of a green colour which grows most abundant in the rich dry lands near the water courses, but is also found in Small quantities in the piney lands at a distance from the water Courses in the former Situations the Stem is frequently the Size of a mans finger and rise perpendicularly to the hight of 4 or 5 feet when it decends in an arch and becoms procumbent or rests on Some neighbouring plant or Srubs; it is Simple unbranched and celindric; in the latter Situation it is much Smaller, and usially procumbent. the Stem is armed with Sharp and hooked bryors. the leaf is peteolate, ternate and resembles in Shape and appearance that of the purple Raspberry common to the atlantic States. The frute is a berry resembling the Blackberry in every respect and is eaten when ripe and much esteemed by the nativs but is not dryed for winters Consumption. in the Countrey about the enterance of the quick Sand rivers I first discovered this bryor, it grows So abundantly in the furtile Vally of Columbia and on the Islands in that part of the river, that the Countrey near the river is almost impenitrable in maney places. This green Bryor retains its leaf or foliage and virdue untill late in December. The Briory bush with a wide leaf is also one of its ascociates.
There's a type of bramble that's common in this area, characterized by its green color. It grows most abundantly in the rich dry lands near the watercourses but is also found in smaller amounts in the piney areas farther from the water. In the former locations, the stem can be as thick as a man's finger and grows straight up to a height of 4 or 5 feet. Then it arches down and becomes sprawling, often resting on nearby plants or shrubs. It's simple, unbranched, and cylindrical. In the latter locations, it's much smaller and generally lays flat. The stem has sharp, hooked thorns. The leaves are petiolate, ternate, and resemble the shape and look of the purple raspberry found in the Atlantic States. The fruit is a berry that looks just like a blackberry; it's eaten when ripe and highly valued by the locals, but it's not dried for winter use. I first discovered this bramble in the area around the entrance of the quicksand rivers. It grows so abundantly in the fertile valley of Columbia and on the islands along that part of the river that the land near the river is almost impenetrable in many places. This green bramble keeps its leaves and vitality until late December. The bush with wide leaves is also one of its companions.
[Lewis, February 12, 1806]
Wednesday February 12th 1806. This morning we were visited by a Clatsop man who brought with him three dogs as a remuneration for the Elk which him self and nation had stolen from us some little time since, how ever the dogs took the alarm and ran off; we suffered him to remain in the fort all night.
Wednesday, February 12, 1806. This morning, a Clatsop man visited us and brought three dogs as payment for the elk that he and his people had stolen from us some time ago. However, the dogs got scared and ran off. We let him stay in the fort all night.
There are two species of ever green shrubs which I first met with at the grand rappids of the Columbia and which I have since found in this neighbourhood also; they grow in rich dry ground not far usually from some watercourse. the roots of both species are creeping and celindric. the stem of the 1st is from a foot to 18 inches high and as large as a goosqull; it is simple unbranced and erect. it's leaves are cauline, compound and spreading. the leafets are jointed and oppositely pinnate, 3 pare & terminating in one, sessile, widest at the base and tapering to an accuminated point, an inch and a quarter the greatest width, and 3 inches & a 1/4 in length. each point of their crenate margins armed with a subulate thorn or spine and are from 13 to 17 in number. they are also veined, glossy, carinated and wrinkled; their points obliquely pointing towards the extremity of the common footstalk.—The stem of the 2nd is procumbent abot the size of the former, jointed and unbranched. it's leaves are cauline, compound and oppositely pinnate; the rib from 14 to 16 inches long celindric and smooth. the leafets 21/2 inches long and 1 inch wide. greatest width 1/2 inch from their base, to which they are regularly rounded, and from the same point tapering to an accute apex, wich is mostly, but not invariably tirminated with a small subulate thorn. they are jointed and oppositely pinnate, consisting of 6 pare and terminating in one, sessile serrate, or like the teeth of a whipsaw, each point terminating in a small subulate spine, being from 25 to 27 in number; veined, smooth, plane and of a deep green, their points tending obliquely towards the extremity of the rib or common footstalk. I do not know the fruit or flower of either. the 1st resembles the plant common to many parts of the U States called the mountain holley.
There are two types of evergreen shrubs that I first encountered at the grand rapids of the Columbia, and I have since found them in this area too. They typically grow in rich, dry soil not far from a water source. The roots of both species are creeping and cylindrical. The stem of the first shrub is about one foot to 18 inches tall and as thick as a goose quill; it is simple, unbranched, and upright. Its leaves are stem-based, compound, and spread out. The leaflets are jointed and arranged oppositely in a pinnate pattern, with three pairs ending in one, sessile leaf, the widest part being at the base and tapering to a pointed tip, measuring an inch and a quarter at the greatest width and three and a quarter inches in length. Each point of their serrated edges is armed with a needle-like thorn or spine, numbering between 13 to 17. They are also veined, shiny, ridged, and wrinkled; their tips point obliquely towards the end of the common leaf stalk. The stem of the second shrub is prostrate, about the same size as the first, jointed, and unbranched. Its leaves are stem-based, compound, and oppositely pinnate; the rib measures 14 to 16 inches long, cylindrical and smooth. The leaflets are 2.5 inches long and 1 inch wide, with the greatest width being half an inch from their base, which is regular and rounded, tapering to a sharp tip, often, but not always, ending with a small needle-like thorn. They are jointed and oppositely pinnate, consisting of six pairs ending in one, sessile and serrated, resembling the teeth of a whipsaw, with each point ending in a small needle-like spine, numbering between 25 to 27. They are veined, smooth, flat, and a deep green color, with their tips obliquely pointing toward the end of the rib or common leaf stalk. I do not know the fruit or flower of either. The first resembles a plant commonly found in many parts of the U.S. called mountain holly.
[Clark, February 12, 1806]
Wednesday February 12th 1806. This morning we were visited by a Clatsop man who brought with him three dogs as a remuneration for the Elk which himself and Nation had Stolen from us Some little time Sence, however the dogs took the alarm and ran off; we suffered him to remain in the fort all night.
Wednesday, February 12th, 1806. This morning we had a visit from a Clatsop man who brought three dogs as payment for the elk that he and his group had stolen from us some time ago. However, the dogs got frightened and ran away; we let him stay in the fort all night.
There are two Species of evergreen Shrubs. this is the leaf of one which I first met with at the grand rapids of the Columbia River, and which I have sence found in this neighbourhood also; they usially grow in rich dry ground not far from Some water course. the roots of both Species are creeping and celindric. the Stem of the first (as above) is from a foot to 18 inches high and as large as a Goose quil; it is Simple and erect. its leaves are cauline, and Spredding. the leafits are jointed & oppositly poinnate 3 par and termonateing in one, cessile widest at the base and tapering to an accuminated point, an inch and 1/4 the greatest width; & 31/4 inches in length. each point of their crenate margins armed with a thorn or Spine, and are from 13 to 17 in number. they are also veined, glossy, corinated and wrinkled; their points obliquely pointing towards the extremity of the Common footstalk.
There are two types of evergreen shrubs. This is the leaf of one that I first came across at the Grand Rapids of the Columbia River, and which I have since found in this area as well; they usually grow in rich dry soil not far from some water source. The roots of both species are creeping and cylindrical. The stem of the first (as mentioned) is between one foot and 18 inches high and as thick as a goose quill; it is simple and upright. Its leaves are arranged along the stem and spread out. The leaflets are jointed and arranged oppositely, with three pairs and terminating in one, sessile, widest at the base, and tapering to a pointed tip, measuring an inch and a quarter at the widest part and three and a quarter inches in length. Each point of their scalloped edges is armed with a thorn or spine, numbering between 13 and 17 in total. They are also veined, glossy, scalloped, and wrinkled; their tips point obliquely towards the end of the common petiole.
The Stem of the 2nd is procumbent about the Size of the former, jointed and umbracated. it's leaves are Cauline, compound and oppositly pointed; the rib from 14 to 16 inches long Celendric and Smooth the leafits 21/2 inches long and 1 inch wide. the greatest width 1/2 inch from their base which they are regularly rounded, and from the Same point tapering to an accute apex, which is mostly but not entirely termonated with a Small Subulate thorn. they are jointed & oppositly pointed consisting of 6 par and termonateing in one (in this form) sessile, Serrate, or like the teeth of a whipsaw, each point terminateing in a small subulate spine, being from 25 to 27 in numbr; veined, Smoth, plane and of a deep green, their points tending obliquely towards the extremity of the rib or common footstalk. I do not know the fruit or flower of either. the 1st resembles a plant Common to maney parts of the United States Called the Mountain Holly
The stem of the 2nd is prostrate, about the same size as the previous one, jointed and leafy. Its leaves are stem-like, compound, and pointed opposite each other; the ribs are 14 to 16 inches long, slender, and smooth. The leaves are 2.5 inches long and 1 inch wide, the widest part being 0.5 inches from the base, which is regularly rounded, tapering to a sharp tip, mostly but not entirely ending in a small needle-like thorn. They are jointed and pointed opposite each other, consisting of 6 pairs and ending in one (in this form) seated, serrated, or resembling the teeth of a whipsaw, with each point ending in a small needle-like spine, numbering from 25 to 27; veined, smooth, flat, and a deep green, their points tilting obliquely towards the end of the rib or common stalk. I am unfamiliar with the fruit or flower of either. The first resembles a plant common in many parts of the United States called the Mountain Holly.
[Lewis, February 13, 1806]
Thursday February 13th 1806. The Clatsop left us this morning at 11 A.M. not any thing transpired during the day worthy of notice. yesterday we completed the operation of drying the meat, and think we have a sufficient stock to last us this month. the Indians inform us that we shall have great abundance of a small fish in March which from their discription must be the herring. these people have also informed us that one More who sometimes touches at this place and trades with the natives of this coast, had on board of his vessel three Cows, and that when he left them he continued his course along the N. W. coast. I think this strong circumstancial proof that there is a stettlement of white persons at Nootka sound or some point to the N. W. of us on the coast.
Thursday, February 13th, 1806. The Clatsop left us this morning at 11 A.M. Nothing noteworthy happened throughout the day. Yesterday, we finished drying the meat and believe we have enough to last us this month. The Indians told us that we'll have plenty of a small fish in March, which from their description must be herring. They also mentioned that a trader named More, who occasionally stops by here and trades with the locals, had three cows on board his ship, and after leaving, he continued his route along the Northwest coast. I consider this strong circumstantial evidence that there's a settlement of white people at Nootka Sound or some point Northwest of us on the coast.
There is a species of bryer which is common in this neighbourhood of a green colour which grows most abundant in the rich dry lands near the watercourses, but is also found in small quantities in the piny lands at a distance from the watercourses in the former situation the stem is frequently the size of a man's finger and rises perpendicularly to the hight of 4 or 5 feet when it decends in an arch and becomes procumbent or rests on some neighbouring plants or shrubs; it is simple unbranched and celindric; in the latter situation it is much smaller and usually procumbent. the stem is armed with sharp and hooked bryers. the leaf is peteolate ternate and resembles in shape and appearance that of the perple raspberry common to the Atlantic states. the fruit is a berry resembling the black berry in every rispect and is eaten when ripe and much esteemed by the natives but is not dryed for winter consumption. in the country about the entrance of the quicksand river I first discovered this bryer. it groows so abundantly in the fertile valley of Columbia and the Islands in that part of the river that the country near the river is almost impenitrable in many places. the briary bush with a wide leaf is also one of it's ascociates. the green bryer retains it's foliage and verdure untill late in December.—There are also two species of firn which are common to this country beside that formerly discribed of which the natives eat the roots. these from their disparity in point of size I shall designate the large and small firn. both species continue green all winter.—The large farn, rises to the height of 3 or four feet the stem is a common footstalk or rib which proceedes immediately from the radix wich is somewhat flat on two sides about the size of a man's arm and covered with innumerable black coarce capillary radicles which issue from every pat of it's surface; one of those roots or a collected bed of them will send fourth from twenty to forty of those common footstalks all of which decline or bend outwards from the common center. these ribs are cylindric and marked longitudinally their whole length with a groove or channel on their upper side. on either side of this grove a little below it's edge, the leafets are inserted, being shortly petiolate for about 2/3 ds of the length of the middle rib commencing at the bottom and from thence to the extremity sessile. the rib is terminated by a single undivided lanceolate gagged leafet. the leafets are lanceolate, from 2 to 4 inches in length gagged and have a small accute angular projection on the upper edge near the base where it is spuar on the side which has the projection and obliquely cut at the base on the other side of the rib of the leafet. or which will give a better idea in this form. the upper surface is Smooth and of a deep green the under disk of a pale green and covered with a brown bubersence of a woolly appearance particularly near the cental fiber or rib. these leafets are alternately pinnate. they are in number from 110 to 140; shortest at the two extremities of the common footstalk and longest in the center, graduly lengthening and deminishing as they succeed each other.-
There’s a type of briar common in this area, characterized by its green color. It grows mostly in rich, dry land near watercourses but is also found in smaller amounts in the piney areas away from the water. In the former location, the stem can be as thick as a man's finger and grows straight up to about 4 or 5 feet before arching down and resting on nearby plants or shrubs; it’s simple, unbranched, and cylindrical. In the latter location, it’s smaller and usually lies flat. The stem has sharp, hooked thorns. The leaves are petiolate and ternate, resembling the shape and appearance of the purple raspberry found in the Atlantic states. The fruit is a berry that looks just like a blackberry and is eaten when ripe, highly rated by locals, but it isn’t dried for winter use. I first found this briar near the mouth of the Quicksand River. It grows so abundantly in the fertile Columbia Valley and the islands in that part of the river that the areas near the river can be nearly impenetrable in many places. The briary bush with large leaves is also a companion species. The green briar keeps its leaves and greenery until late December. There are also two types of ferns common in this area besides the one previously described, whose roots the locals eat. Due to their size differences, I’ll refer to them as large and small ferns. Both types stay green all winter. The large fern grows to about 3 or 4 feet tall; its stem is a common footstalk or rib that comes directly from the somewhat flattened root, which is about the size of a man’s arm and covered with numerous coarse black roots that emerge from every part of its surface. One of these roots, or a cluster of them, can produce twenty to forty common footstalks, all of which curve outward from the center. These ribs are cylindrical and have a groove or channel running along the upper side. Just below the edge of this groove, the leaflets are attached and are shortly petiolate for about two-thirds of the length of the middle rib, starting from the bottom and becoming sessile towards the end. The rib ends with a single undivided lanceolate leaflet. The leaflets are lanceolate, ranging from 2 to 4 inches long, toothed, and have a tiny sharp projection along the upper edge near the base, where it is tapered on one side that has the projection, and slanted on the other side of the rib of the leaflet. The upper surface is smooth and a deep green, while the underside is a pale green and covered with a brown, woolly fuzz, especially near the central fiber or rib. These leaflets are alternately pinnate, numbering between 110 to 140; they are shortest at the two ends of the common footstalk and longest in the center, gradually lengthening and decreasing as they progress.
The small firn also rises with a common footstalk from the radix and are from four to eight in number. about 8 inches long; the central rib marked with a slight longitudinal groove throughout it's whole length. the leafets are oppositely pinnate about 1/3 rd of the length of the common footstalk from the bottom and thence alternately pinnate; the footstalk terminating in a simple undivided nearly entire lanceolate leafet. the leafets are oblong, obtuse, convex absolutely entire, marked on the upper disk with a slight longitudinal groove in place of the central rib, smooth and of a deep green. near the upper extremity these leafets are decursively pinnate as are also those of the large f rn. The grasses of this neighbourhood are generally coase harsh and sedge-like, and grow in large tufts. there is none except in the open grounds. near the coast on the tops of some of the untimbered hills there is a finer and softer species which resembles much the green swoard. the salt marshes also produce a coarse grass, Bull rushes and the Cattail flagg. the two last the natives make great use in preparing their mats bags &c.
The small firn grows from a common stalk at the base, typically numbering between four to eight and measuring about 8 inches long. The central rib has a slight groove that runs the entire length. The leaflets are oppositely pinnate about a third of the way up the common stalk from the bottom, and then they switch to alternating pinnate. The stalk ends in a simple, undivided, nearly whole lance-shaped leaflet. These leaflets are oblong, blunt, rounded, completely smooth, and a deep green color, marked on the top side with a subtle groove instead of the central rib. Near the top, these leaflets are also decursively pinnate, as are those of the larger fern. The grasses in this area are generally coarse, rough, and resemble sedges, growing in large clumps. They don't grow except in open spaces. Near the coast, on the tops of some treeless hills, there is a finer and softer species that looks a lot like green sod. The salt marshes also yield coarse grass, bulrushes, and cattail. The last two are commonly used by locals to make their mats, bags, etc.
[Clark, February 13, 1806]
Tuesday February 13th 1806. The Clatsop left us this morning at 11 A.M. not anything transpired dureing the day worthy of notice. yesterday we completed the opperation of drying the meat, and think we have a Sufficient Stock to last us this month. the Indians inform us that we shall have great abundance of Small fish in March. which from the discription must be the Herring. Those people have also informed us that one Moore who sometimes touches at this place and traded with the nativs of this Coast, had on board his Ship 3 Cows, and that when he left them he continued his course along the N W. Coast. I think this (if those Cows were not Coats) Strong circumstantial proof that their is a Settlement of white persons at Nootka Sound or Some place to the N W. of us on the coast.
Tuesday, February 13, 1806. The Clatsop left us this morning at 11 A.M. Nothing significant happened during the day. Yesterday we finished drying the meat and believe we have enough stock to last us this month. The Indians have informed us that we can expect a lot of small fish in March, which, based on their description, must be herring. They also told us that a man named Moore, who occasionally stops by here and trades with the natives of this coast, had three cows on his ship when he left, and that he continued his journey along the Northwest Coast. I think this is strong circumstantial evidence that there is a settlement of white people at Nootka Sound or somewhere to the Northwest of us on the coast.
There are also two Species of firn which are common to this Countrey besides that before mentioned of which the nativs eate the roots. these two from their disparity in point of Size I shall distinguish the large and Small firn. both species continue green all winter
There are also two types of firn common to this country, besides the one mentioned earlier whose roots the natives eat. I will distinguish between them based on size, referring to them as large firn and small firn. Both types remain green all winter.
The large fern, rise to the hight of 3 or 4 feet, the Stem is a Common footstalk or rib which proceeds imediately from the radix which is Somewhat flat on two Sides about the Size of a man's arm and covered with innumerable black coarse capillary radicles which issue from every part of its surface; one of those roots or a collected bead of them will Send forth from 20 to 40 of those Common footstalks all of which decline or bend outwards from the Common center. those ribs are cylindric and marked longitudinally their whole length with a groove or channel on their upper Side. on either Side of this groove a little below it's edge, the leafets are inserted, being partly petiolate for about 2/3ds of the length of the middle rib, commenceing at the bottom and from thence to the extremity Sessile. the rib is termonated by a Single undevided lanceolate gagged leafet. the leafets are lanceolate, from 2 to 4 inches in length gagged and have a Small accute angular projection and obliquely cut at the base on either Side of the rib of the leafet. upper Surface is Smooth and of a deep Green, the under disk of a pale Green and covered with a brown Substance of a woolly appearance particalarly near the center fiber or rib these leafets are alternately pointed they are in number from 110 to 140; shortest at the two extremities of the common footstalk and longest in the center, gradually lengthing and diminishing as they Suckceed each other
The large fern rises to a height of 3 to 4 feet. The stem is a common stalk or rib that comes directly from the root, which is somewhat flat on two sides and about the size of a man's arm, covered with countless black coarse hair-like roots that emerge from every part of its surface. A single root or a cluster of them can produce 20 to 40 of these common stalks, all of which bend outwards from a central point. These ribs are cylindrical and marked along their entire length with a groove or channel on the upper side. On either side of this groove, just below its edge, the leaflets are attached, with about two-thirds of their length being partially stemmed, starting from the bottom and then becoming stalkless towards the tip. The rib concludes with a single undivided lance-shaped leaflet. The leaflets are lance-shaped, ranging from 2 to 4 inches in length, have a jagged edge, and feature a small sharp angular projection that is slanted at the base on either side of the leaflet's rib. The upper surface is smooth and a deep green, while the underside is pale green and covered with a brown, woolly substance, especially near the central rib. These leaflets alternate in pointing direction and number between 110 to 140; they are shortest at both ends of the common stalk and longest in the center, gradually getting longer and shorter as they proceed.
The Small firn also rises with a Common footstalk from the radix and are from 4 to 8 in number, about 8 inches long; the Central rib marked with a Slight longitudinal Groove through out it's whole length. the leafets are oppositly pinnate about A of the length of the Common footstalk from the bottom and thence alternately pinnate; the footstalk termonating in a Simple undevided nearly entire lanceolate leafet. the leafets are oblong, obtuse, convex absolutely entire, marked on the upper disk with a Slight longitudinal grove in place of the central rib, smooth and of a deep green; near the upper extremity those lefets are decurscivily pinnate as are also those of the larg firn.
The small fern also grows with a common stalk from the base and has about 4 to 8 leaves that are about 8 inches long. The central rib has a slight longitudinal groove along its entire length. The leaflets are oppositely pinnate for about a length equal to a third of the common stalk from the bottom and then alternately pinnate; the stalk ends in a simple, undivided, nearly whole lanceolate leaflet. The leaflets are oblong, blunt, convex, completely smooth, and marked on the upper side with a slight longitudinal groove instead of a central rib, with a deep green color. Near the upper end, those leaflets are decursive pinnate, just like those of the large fern.
The Grass's of this neighbourhood are generally coarse harsh and Sedge like, and grow in large tufts. there is none except in the open grounds. near the Coast on the top of Some of the untimbered hills there is a finer and Softer Species which resembles much the Greensword. the Salt marshes also produce a Corse grass, Bullrushes and the Cattail flaggs. of the two last the nativs make great use in prepareing their mats bags &c. in those bags they Carry their fish Berries roots &c.
The grasses in this neighborhood are generally coarse, harsh, and similar to sedge, growing in large tufts. They mainly grow in open areas. Near the coast, on some of the treeless hills, there is a finer and softer type that closely resembles greensward. The salt marshes also produce coarse grass, bullrushes, and cattail flags. The natives make extensive use of the latter two for preparing their mats, bags, etc. They use these bags to carry their fish, berries, roots, etc.
[Lewis, February 14, 1806]
Friday February 14th 1806. We are very uneasy with rispect to our sick men at the salt works. Sergt. Pryor and party have not yet returned nor can we conceive what causes their delay. Drewyer visited his traps today and caught a very fine fat beaver on which we feasted this evening. on the 11th inst. Capt Clark completed a map of the country through which we have been passing from Fort Mandan to this place. in this map the Missouri Jefferson's river the S. E. branch of the Columbia, Kooskooske and Columbia from the entrance of the S. E. fork to the pacific Ocean as well as a part of Flathead river and our tract across the Rocky Mountains are laid down by celestial observation and survey. the rivers are also connected at their sources with other rivers agreeably to the information of the natives and the most probable conjecture arrising from their capacities and the relative positions of their rispective entrances which last have with but few exceptions been established by celestial observation. we now discover that we have found the most practicable and navigable passage across the Continent of North America; it is that which we traveled with the exception of that part of our rout from the neighbourhood of the entrance of Dearborn's River untill we arrived on Clarks river at the entrance of Traveler's rest creek; the distance between those two points would be traveled more advantageously by land as the navigation of the Missouri above the river Dearborn is laborious and 420 miles distant by which no advantage is gained as the rout which we are compelled to travel by land from the source of Jefferson's river to the entrance of Travelers rest Creek is 220 miles being further by 500 miles than that from the entrance of Dearborn's river to the last mentioned point and a much worse rout if Indian information is to be relyed on; from the same information the Flathead river like that of the S. E. fork of the Columbia which heads with Jefferson's and Maddison's Rivers can not be navigated through the Rocky Mountains in consequence of falls & rappids and as a confermation of this fact, we discovered that there were no salmon in the Flathead river, which is the case in the S. E. branch of the Columbia although it is not navigable. added to this, the Indians further inform us, that the Flathead river runs in the direction of the Rocky Mountains for a great distance to the North before it discharges itself into the Columbia river, which last from the same information from the entrance of the S. E. fork to that of Flathead river is obstructed with a great number of difficult and dangerous rappids. considering therefore the danger and difficulties attending the navigation of the Columbia in this part, as well as the circuitous and distant rout formed by itself and the Flathead river we conceive that even admitting the Flathead river contrary to information to be as navigable as the Columbia river below it's entrance, that the tract by land over the Rocky Mountains usually traveled by the natives from the Entrance of Traveller's-rest Creek to the forks of the Kooskooske is preferable; the same being a distance of 184 Miles. The inferrence therefore deduced from those premices are that the best and most Practicable rout across the Continent is by way of the Missouri to the entrance of Dearborn's river or near that place; from thence to flathead river at the entrance of Traveller's rest Creek, from thence up Traveller's rest creek to the forks, from whence you pursue a range of mounttains which divides the waters of the two forks of this creek, and which still continuing it's West wardly course divides the waters of the two forks of the Kooskooske river to their junction; from thence to decend this river by water to the S. E. branch of the Columbia, thence down that river to the Columbia and with the latter to the Pacific Ocean.
Friday, February 14, 1806. We’re very worried about our sick men at the salt works. Sergeant Pryor and his team haven't returned yet, and we can't figure out why they’re delayed. Drewyer checked his traps today and caught a really nice, fat beaver that we feasted on this evening. On the 11th, Captain Clark finished a map of the area we've been traveling through from Fort Mandan to here. This map shows the Missouri, Jefferson's River, the southeast branch of the Columbia, Kooskooske, and the Columbia River from the entrance of the southeast fork to the Pacific Ocean, as well as part of the Flathead River and our route across the Rocky Mountains, all determined by celestial observation and survey. The rivers are also linked at their sources with other rivers based on information from the locals and the most reasonable guesses based on their capacities and the relative positions of their respective entrances, which have mostly been confirmed by celestial observation. We now realize that we've found the most feasible and navigable route across North America; it’s the one we traveled, except for the section from the area near the entrance of Dearborn's River until we reached Clark's River at the entrance of Traveler's Rest Creek. The distance between those two points would be better traveled by land, as navigating the Missouri above Dearborn's River is challenging and 420 miles long, offering no advantages since the journey we have to take overland from the source of Jefferson's River to the entrance of Traveler's Rest Creek is 220 miles, which is 500 miles longer than the route from the entrance of Dearborn's River to the last point mentioned, and it’s a much worse route if we can trust the Native information. Based on the same information, the Flathead River, like the southeast fork of the Columbia which begins with Jefferson's and Madison's Rivers, cannot be navigated through the Rocky Mountains due to falls and rapids. To confirm this, we found that there are no salmon in the Flathead River, which is also true for the southeast branch of the Columbia, even though it isn’t navigable. Additionally, the natives inform us that the Flathead River flows north for a long distance before joining the Columbia River, which, from the entrance of the southeast fork to the Flathead River, is blocked by numerous difficult and dangerous rapids. Therefore, considering the dangers and difficulties involved in navigating the Columbia in this area, as well as the circuitous and lengthy route created by it and the Flathead River, we think that even if the Flathead River, contrary to the information we have, were as navigable as the Columbia below its entrance, the land route over the Rocky Mountains typically traveled by the natives from the entrance of Traveler's Rest Creek to the forks of the Kooskooske is preferable, covering a distance of 184 miles. The conclusion drawn from these premises is that the best and most practical route across the continent is via the Missouri to the entrance of Dearborn's River or close to that location; from there to the Flathead River at the entrance of Traveler's Rest Creek, then up Traveler's Rest Creek to the forks, from where you would follow a range of mountains that separates the waters of the two forks of this creek, continuing westward to separate the waters of the two forks of the Kooskooske River to their junction; from there, you could descend this river by water to the southeast branch of the Columbia, then follow that river to the Columbia and along it to the Pacific Ocean.
[Clark, February 14, 1806]
Friday February 14th 1806 We are very uneasy with respect to our Sick men at the Salt works. Serjt. Pryor and party haveing not yet returneded, nor can we conceive what can be the Cause of their delay. Drewyer visited his traps & to day and Cought a fine fat beaver on which we feasted this evening and thought it a great delecessey.-.
Friday, February 14th, 1806 We are very concerned about our sick men at the salt works. Sergeant Pryor and his group haven't returned yet, and we can't figure out why they are delayed. Drewyer checked his traps today and caught a nice, fat beaver, which we feasted on this evening and considered a great delicacy.
I compleated a map of the Countrey through which we have been passing from the Mississippi at the Mouth of Missouri to this place. In the Map the Missouri Jefferson's river the S. E. branch of the Columbia or Lewis's river, Koos-koos-ke and Columbia from the enterance of the S. E fork to the pacific Ocian, as well as a part of Clark's river and our track across the Rocky Mountains are laid down by celestial observations and Survey. the rivers are also conected at their Sources with other rivers agreeably to the information of the nativs and the most probable conjecture arrising from their capacities and the relative positions of their respective enterances which last have with but fiew exceptions been established by celestial observations. We now discover that we have found the most practicable and navigable passage across the Continent of North America; it is that which we have traveled with the exception of that part of our rout from the foot of the Falls of the Missouri, or in neighbourhood of the enterance of the Rocky Mountains untill we arive on Clarks river at the enterence of Travelers-rest Creek; the distance between those two points would be traveled more advantagiously by land as the navigation of the Missouri above the Falls is crooked laborious and 521 miles distant by which no advantage is gained as the rout which we are compelled to travel by land from the Source of Jeffersons River to the enterance of Travellers rest Creek is 220 miles being further by At. 600 miles than that from the Falls of the Missourie to the last mentioned point (Travellers rest Creek) and a much worse rout if indian information is to be relied on which is from the So so nee or Snake Indians, and the Flatheads of the Columbia west of the rocky mountains. from the Same information Clarks river like that of the S. E. branch of the Columbia which heads with Jefferson's and Maddisons river's can not be navagated thro the rocky mountains in consequence of falls and rapids, and as a confirmation of the fact we discovered that there were no Salmon in Clark's river, which is not the Case in the S. E. branch of the Columbia altho it is not navagable. added to this, the Indians of different quartes further inform us, that Clark's river runs in the direction of the Rocky Mountains for a great distance to the north before it discharges itself into the Columbia river—-from the Same information the Columbia from the enterance of the S. E. branch to the enterance of Clark's river is obstructed with a great number of dificuelt and dangerous rapids (and the place Clark's river comes out of the Rocky mountains is a tremendious falls &c which there is no possibillity of passing the mountains either by land or water.) Considering therefore the dangers and deficuelties attending the navigation of the Columbia in this part, as well as the circuitous and distant rout formed by itself and that of Clark's River we Conceive that even admitting that Clarks river contrary to information to be as navagable as the Columbia below it's enterance, that the tract by land over the Rocky Mountains usially traveled by the nativs from the enterance of Travellers rest Creek to the Forks of the Kooskooske is preferable; the Same being a distance of 184 miles. The inferrence therefore deduced from these premises are, that the best and most practicable rout across the Continent is by way of the Missouri to the Great Falls; thence to Clarks river at the enterance of Travellers rest Creek, from thence up travillers rest Creek to the forks, from whence you prosue a range of mountains which divides the waters of the two forks of this Creek, and which still Continues it's westwardly Course on the mountains which divides the waters of the two forks of the Kooskooske river to their junction; from thence to decend this river to the S. E. branch of the Columbia, thence down that river to the Columbia, and down the Latter to the Pacific Ocian-. There is a large river which falls into the Columbia on its South Side at what point we could not lern; which passes thro those extencive Columbian Plains from the South East, and as the Indians inform us head in the mountains South of the head of Jeffersons River and at no great distance from the Spanish Settlements, and that that fork which heads with the River Rajhone and waters of the Missouri passes through those extensive plains in which there is no wood, and the river Crowded with rapids & falls many of which are impassable. the other or westerly fork passes near a range of mountains and is the fork which great numbers of Indian Bands of the So sone or Snake Indians, this fork most probably heads with North River or the waters of Callifornia. This River may afford a practicable land Communication with New Mexico by means of its western fork. This river cannot be navagable as an unpracticable rapid is within one mile of its enterance into the Columbia, and we are fully purswaded that a rout by this river if practicable at all, would lengthen the distance greatly and incounter the Same dificuelties in passing the Rocky Mountains with the rout by way of Travellers rest Creek & Clarks river.
I completed a map of the country we've been traveling through from the Mississippi at the mouth of the Missouri to this location. The map includes the Missouri River, Jefferson's River, the southeastern branch of the Columbia (or Lewis's River), Kooskooske, and Columbia from the entrance of the southeast fork to the Pacific Ocean, along with part of Clark's River and our route across the Rocky Mountains, all based on celestial observations and surveys. The rivers are also connected at their sources to other rivers based on information from the natives and our best guesses based on their capacities and the relative positions of their respective entrances, which have mostly been established through celestial observations. We now realize we've discovered the most practical and navigable path across the continent of North America; it's the route we've traveled, except for the part of our journey from the foot of the Falls of the Missouri, or near the entrance of the Rocky Mountains, until we arrive at Clark's River at the entrance of Traveler's Rest Creek. The distance between those two points would be better traveled by land since the navigation of the Missouri above the Falls is winding, laborious, and 521 miles long, which offers no advantage compared to the land route we have to take from the source of Jefferson's River to the entrance of Traveler's Rest Creek, which is 220 miles—about 600 miles longer than the route from the Falls of the Missouri to the last mentioned point (Traveler's Rest Creek)—and a much worse route if we trust the Indian information from the So-so-nee or Snake Indians, and the Flatheads of the Columbia west of the Rocky Mountains. According to the same information, Clark's River, like the southeastern branch of the Columbia that starts with Jefferson's and Madison's Rivers, cannot be navigated through the Rocky Mountains due to falls and rapids. To confirm this, we discovered that there are no salmon in Clark's River, unlike the situation in the southeastern branch of the Columbia, even though it’s not navigable. Additionally, various Indian tribes further inform us that Clark's River runs in the direction of the Rocky Mountains for a considerable distance north before it empties into the Columbia River. Based on the same information, the Columbia from the entrance of the southeast branch to the entrance of Clark's River is blocked by numerous difficult and dangerous rapids, and the place where Clark's River emerges from the Rocky Mountains has a tremendous fall, making it impossible to pass the mountains either by land or water. Therefore, considering the dangers and difficulties involved in navigating the Columbia in this area, as well as the winding and lengthy route that it and Clark's River create, we believe that, even assuming that Clark's River, contrary to the information, is as navigable as the Columbia below its entrance, the land route typically traveled by the natives from the entrance of Traveler's Rest Creek to the forks of the Kooskooske is preferable; this route covers a distance of 184 miles. Thus, the conclusion drawn from these premises is that the best and most practical route across the continent is via the Missouri to the Great Falls; then to Clark's River at the entrance of Traveler's Rest Creek, from there up Traveler's Rest Creek to the forks, where you continue along a range of mountains that divides the waters of the two forks of this creek, which continues its westward course along the mountains that divide the waters of the two forks of the Kooskooske River until they meet; from there, descend this river to the southeastern branch of the Columbia, then down that river to the Columbia, and from there down to the Pacific Ocean. There is a large river that flows into the Columbia on its south side, though we couldn't determine the exact point; it travels through those extensive Columbia plains from the southeast, and according to the Indians, originates in the mountains south of the head of Jefferson's River and not far from the Spanish settlements. Also, that fork that begins with the river Rajhone and the waters of the Missouri passes through those vast plains where there is no wood, and the river is filled with rapids and falls, many of which are impassable. The other, or western fork, is near a mountain range and is the fork that numerous bands of the So-so-nee or Snake Indians frequent; this fork probably connects to the North River or the waters of California. This river might provide a practical land connection with New Mexico through its western fork. However, this river cannot be navigable as there is an unmanageable rapid within one mile of its entrance into the Columbia, and we are fully convinced that a route by this river, if feasible at all, would greatly increase the distance and face the same difficulties in crossing the Rocky Mountains as the route via Traveler's Rest Creek and Clark's River.
[Lewis, February 15, 1806]
Saturday February 15th 1806. Drewyer and Whitehouse set out this morning on a hunting excurtion towards the praries of Point Adams. we have heard our hunters over the Netul fire several shot today, but have had no account from them as yet. about 3 P.M. Bratton arrived from the salt works and informed us that Sergt. Pryor and party were on their way with Gibson who is so much reduced that he cannot stand alone and that they are obliged to carry him in a litter. Bratton himself appears much reduced with his late indisposition but is now recovering fast. Bratton informed that the cause of Sergt. Pryor's delay was attributeable to the winds which had been so violent for several days as to render it impossible to get a canoe up the creek to the point where it was necessary to pass with Gibson. the S. W. winds are frequently very violent on the coast when we are but little sensible of them at Fort Clatsop. in consequence of the lofty and thickly timbered fir country which surrounds us on that quarter from the South to the North East.
Saturday, February 15th, 1806. Drewyer and Whitehouse left this morning for a hunting trip towards the prairies of Point Adams. We’ve heard our hunters around the Netul fire fire several shots today, but we haven't received any updates from them yet. Around 3 PM, Bratton arrived from the salt works and told us that Sergeant Pryor and his party were on their way with Gibson, who is in such bad shape that he can't stand up and has to be carried on a litter. Bratton himself looks quite weakened from his recent illness but is recovering quickly. He mentioned that Sergeant Pryor's delay was due to the violent winds that have made it impossible to get a canoe up the creek to the point where they need to get Gibson across. The southwest winds can often be very strong on the coast, even though we hardly notice them at Fort Clatsop because of the tall, thickly wooded fir country that surrounds us from the south to the northeast.
after dark Sergt. Pryor arrived with Gibson. we are much pleased in finding him by no means as ill as we had expected. we do no conceive him in danger by any means, tho he has yet a fever and is much reduced. we beleive his disorder to have orriginated in a violent cold which he contracted in hunting and pursuing Elk and other game through the swams and marshes about the salt works. he is nearly free from pain tho a gooddeel reduced and very languid. we gave him broken dozes of diluted nitre and made him drink plentifully of sage tea, had his feet bathed in warm water and at 9 P.M. gave him 35 drops of laudanum.
After dark, Sergeant Pryor arrived with Gibson. We are pleased to find him not nearly as ill as we expected. We don’t believe he is in any danger, although he still has a fever and is quite weak. We think his illness started from a severe cold he caught while hunting elk and other game through the swamps and marshes around the salt works. He is almost free from pain, although he is very weakened and lethargic. We gave him small doses of diluted nitre and had him drink plenty of sage tea, soaked his feet in warm water, and at 9 P.M. gave him 35 drops of laudanum.
The quadrupeds of this country from the Rocky Mountains to the pacific Ocean are 1st the domestic animals, consisting of the horse and the dog only; 2cdly the native wild animals, consisting of the Brown white or grizly bear, (which I beleive to be the same family with a mearly accedental difference in point of colour) the black bear, the common red deer, the black tailed fallow deer, the Mule deer, Elk, the large brown wolf, the small woolf of the plains, the large wolf of the plains, the tiger cat, the common red fox, black fox or fisher, silver fox, large red fox of the plains, small fox of the plains or kit fox, Antelope, sheep, beaver, common otter, sea Otter, mink, spuck, seal, racoon, large grey squirrel, small brown squirrel, small grey squirrel, ground squirrel, sewelel, Braro, rat, mouse, mole, Panther, hare, rabbit, and polecat or skunk. all of which shall be severally noticed in the order in which they occur as well as shuch others as I learn do exist and which not been here recapitulated. The horse is confined principally to the nations inhabiting the great plains of Columbia extending from Latitude 40° to 50° N. and occuping the tract of country lying between the rocky mountains and a range of Mountains which pass the columbia river about the great falls or from Longitude 116 to 121 West. in this extesive tract of principally untimbered country so far as we have leant the following nations reside (viz) the Sosone or snake Indians, the Chopunnish, sokulks, Cutssahnims, Chymnapums, Ehelutes, Eneshuh & Chilluckkittequaws. all of whom enjoy the bennefit of that docile, generous and valuable anamal the horse, and all of them except the three last have immence numbers of them. Their horses appear to be of an excellent race; they are lofty eligantly formed active and durable; in short many of them look like the fine English coarsers and would make a figure in any country. some of those horses are pided with large spots of white irregularly scattered and intermixed with the black brown bey or some other dark colour, but much the larger portion are of an uniform colour with stars snips and white feet, or in this rispect marked much like our best blooded horses in virginia, which they resemble as well in fleetness and bottom as in form and colours. the natives suffer them to run at large in the plains, the grass of which furnishes them with their only subsistence their masters taking no trouble to lay in a winters store for them, but they even keep fat if not much used on the dry grass of the plains during the winter. no rain scarcely ever falls in these plains and the grass is short and but thin. The natives appear to take no pains in scelecting their male horses from which they breed, in short those of that discription which I have noticed appeared much the most indifferent. whether the horse was orrigeonally a native of this country or not it is out of my power to determine as we can not understand the language of the natives sufficiently to ask the question. at all events the country and climate appears well adapted to this anamal. horses are said to be found wild in many parts of this extensive plain country. the several tribes of Sosones who reside towards Mexico on the waters of Clark's river or particularly one of them called Sh&-bo-bo-ah have also a great number of mules, which among the Indians I find are much more highly prized than horses. an eligant horse may be purchased of the natives in this country for a lew peads or other paltry trinkets which in the U States would not cost more than one or two dollars. This abundance and cheapness of horses will be extremely advantageous to those who may hereafter attemt the fir trade to the East Indies by way of the Columbia river and the Pacific Ocean.—the mules in the possession of the Indians are principally stolen from the Spaniards of Mexeco; they appear to be large and fine such as we have seen. Among the Sosones of the upper part of the S. E. fork of the Columbia we saw several horses with spanish brands on them which we supposed had been stolen from the inhabitants of Mexeco.
The four-legged animals in this country, from the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific Ocean, are first the domesticated animals—just horses and dogs—and secondly the native wild animals, including the brown, white, or grizzly bear (which I believe to be from the same family with only a slight accidental difference in color), the black bear, the common red deer, the black-tailed fallow deer, mule deer, elk, large brown wolf, small plains wolf, large plains wolf, tiger cat, common red fox, black fox or fisher, silver fox, large red fox of the plains, small plains fox or kit fox, antelope, sheep, beaver, common otter, sea otter, mink, seal, raccoon, large gray squirrel, small brown squirrel, small gray squirrel, ground squirrel, rats, mice, moles, panthers, hares, rabbits, and polecats or skunks. Each of these will be discussed in the order they appear, as well as any others I learn about that haven't been mentioned here. Horses primarily inhabit the nations living in the vast Columbia plains, stretching from latitude 40° to 50° N, between the Rocky Mountains and a mountain range that crosses the Columbia River near the Great Falls, from longitude 116 to 121 W. In this extensive mostly treeless area, the following nations reside: the Sosone or Snake Indians, the Chopunnish, Sokulks, Cutssahnims, Chymnapums, Ehelutes, Eneshuh, and Chilluckkittequaws. All of them benefit from owning the docile, generous, and valuable horse, with all but the last three having large numbers of them. Their horses seem to be of excellent stock; they are tall, elegantly built, active, and durable. Many look like fine English coursers and would stand out in any country. Some of these horses are spotted with large patches of white irregularly mixed with black, brown, bay, or another dark color, while the majority have a solid color with stars, snips, and white feet, resembling our best-bred horses in Virginia in terms of speed, endurance, form, and color. The natives allow them to roam freely in the plains, where the grass provides their only food, without taking the effort to store food for winter. They generally remain fat during winter on the dry grass, as hardly any rain falls on these plains, and the grass remains short and sparse. The natives don’t seem to put much effort into selecting male horses for breeding; those I have noticed appear quite indifferent. I cannot determine if the horse was originally native to this country since we cannot fully understand the natives’ language to ask. In any case, the country and climate seem well-suited for these animals. Horses reportedly run wild in many areas of this vast plain region. The various Sosone tribes living near Mexico, particularly one called Sh&-bo-bo-ah, also have many mules, which the Indians seem to value more highly than horses. An elegant horse can be bought from the natives in this country for a few beads or other trivial items that would only cost one or two dollars in the U.S. This abundance and low cost of horses will be very advantageous to anyone attempting to trade fur in the East Indies via the Columbia River and the Pacific Ocean. The mules owned by the Indians are mostly stolen from the Spaniards in Mexico; they appear to be large and fine, like those we've seen. Among the Sosones living near the upper part of the southeastern fork of the Columbia, we saw several horses with Spanish brands, which we suspected were stolen from Mexican inhabitants.
[Clark, February 15, 1806]
Saturday February 15th 1806 Drewyer and Whitehouse Set out on a hunting excurtion towards the mountains Southwest of us. we have heard our hunters over the Netul fire Several Shot today, but have had no account of them as yet. 3 P.M. Bratten arived from the Saltworks, and informed us that Serjt. Pryor and party were on their way with gibson in a litter. he is verry bad and much reduced with his present indisposition. Wm. Bratten appears much reduced, and is yet verry unwell. he informs that the Cause of Sergt. Pryor's delay was attributiable to the winds which had been so violent for Several days as to render it impossible to get a Canoe up the Creek to the point where it was necessary to pass with Gibson. the S. W. winds are frequently very violent on the coast when we are but little Sensible of them at Fort Clatsop. in Consequence of the lofty and thickly timbered fir country which Surrounds us from that quarter, from the South to the N. East.-. After Dark Sergt. Pryor arrived with Gibson. we are much pleased in findeing him by no means as ill as we had expected. we do not conceive him in danger by any means, tho he has yet a fever and is much reduced. we believe his disorder to have originated in a violent Cold which he contracted in hunting and prosueing Elk and other game through the Swamps and marshes about the salt works. he is nearly free from pain tho a good deel reduced and very languid. we gave him double doses of diluted niter and made him drink plentifully of Sage tea, had his feat bathed in worm water and at 9 P.M. gave him 35 drops of laudanum.
Saturday, February 15th, 1806: Drewyer and Whitehouse set out on a hunting trip towards the mountains southwest of us. We’ve heard our hunters over the Netul fire fire several shots today, but we haven't gotten any updates from them yet. At 3 P.M., Bratten arrived from the Saltworks and informed us that Sergeant Pryor and his group were on their way with Gibson in a litter. He is very unwell and has been significantly weakened by his current condition. William Bratten also seems quite weakened and is still feeling really sick. He explained that the reason for Sergeant Pryor's delay was the strong winds that had been so intense for several days that it made it impossible to get a canoe up the creek to the point where they needed to pass with Gibson. The southwest winds are often very strong on the coast, even when we're hardly aware of them at Fort Clatsop, due to the tall and densely wooded fir country surrounding us from the south to the northeast. After dark, Sergeant Pryor arrived with Gibson. We were relieved to find that he wasn’t as ill as we had expected. We don’t believe he’s in any danger, although he still has a fever and is quite weak. We think his sickness originated from a severe cold he caught while hunting and pursuing elk and other game through the swamps and marshes around the salt works. He is nearly free from pain, although he is quite weakened and very lethargic. We gave him double doses of diluted niter, made him drink plenty of sage tea, had his feet soaked in warm water, and at 9 P.M., we gave him 35 drops of laudanum.
The quadrupeds of this countrey from the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific Ocian are first the Domestic Animals, consisting of the Horses and Dogs only; 2ndly the Native Wild Animals, consisting of the White, brown, or Grizly bear (which I believe to be the same family with a mearly accidentail difference in point of Colour) The Black Bear, the Elk, the Common red Deer, the Mule deer, the black tailed fallow Deer, the large brown wolf, the Small wolf of the Plains, the large wolf of the Plains, Panther, the tiger cat, the common red fox, the black fox or fisher, the Silver fox, large red fox of the plains, Small fox of the plains or kit fox, Antelope, Sheep, beaver, Common Otter, Sea Otter, minks, Seals racoons, large Grey Squerrel, Small brown Squirrel, Small grey Squirrel, Ground Squirrel, Sewelel, Braro, rat, mouse, mole, hare, rabbet, and pole Cat or Skunk. all of which Shall be Severally noticed in the order in which they occur as well as Such others as I learn do exist, and which not been here recapitulated.
The four-legged animals in this country, from the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific Ocean, are divided into two groups. First, there are the domestic animals, which include only horses and dogs. Second, there are the native wild animals, which comprise the white, brown, or grizzly bear (which I believe belong to the same family with just a slight difference in color), the black bear, elk, common red deer, mule deer, black-tailed fallow deer, large brown wolf, small plains wolf, large plains wolf, panther, tiger cat, common red fox, black fox or fisher, silver fox, large red fox of the plains, small plains fox or kit fox, antelope, sheep, beaver, common otter, sea otter, minks, seals, large gray squirrel, small brown squirrel, small gray squirrel, ground squirrel, sewelel, braro, rat, mouse, mole, hare, rabbit, and polecat or skunk. Each of these will be discussed in the order they appear, along with any others I discover that are not included here.
The Horse is principally Confined to the Nations inhabiting the great Plains of Columbia extending from Latitude 40° to 50° N. and occupying the tract of Countrey lying between the Rocky Mountains and a rang of mountains which pass the Columbia River about the Great Falls or from Longitude 116° to 121° West in this extensive tract of Principally untimbered countrey So far as we have lernt the following nations reside (viz) The Sosone, or Snake Indians inhabiting the South fork or ____ River, the Chopunnish, Sokulk's, Cutssahnims, Chym na pum, Ehelutes, Eneshuh & Chilluckkittequaws. all of whome enjoy the benifit of that docile generous and valueable Animal the Horse, and all of them except the three last have emence numbers of them. their horses appear to be of an excellent race; they are lofty eligantly formed active and durable; in Short maney of them look like the fine English coursers and would make a figure in any country. Some of those horses in pided with large spots of white irrigularly scattered and intermixed with black, brown, Bey or Some other dark colour, but much the larger portion are of a uniform Colour with Stars, snips, and white feet, or in this respect marked much like our best blooded horses in the U, States, which they resemble as well in fleetness and bottom as in form and Colour. the nativs Suffer them to run at large in the plains, the Grass of which furnish them with their only Subsistance, their owners takeing no trouble to lay in a winters Store for them, but they keep fat if not much used on the dry grass of the plains dureing the winter. rain scercely ever falls in those plains and the Grass is Short and but thin. the nativs appear to take no pains in Selecting their male horses from which they bread, in Short those of that discription which I have noticed appear much the most indifferent. whether the horses was originally a native of this Country or not, it is out of my power to determine as we cannot understand the language of the nativs Sufficiently to ask the question. at all events the Country and Climate appears well adapted to this Animal. Horses are Said to be found wild in maney parts of this extensive plain Country-. The Several tribes of Sosones who reside near Mexico on the waters of Clark's river, or particularly one of them called Shd-bo-bo-ah have also a great number of Mules, which among the Inds. I find are much more highly prized than horses. an eligant horse may be purchased of the nativs in this Country for a fiew beeds or other paltry trinkits which in the United States would not cost more than one or two dollars. This abundance and Cheepness of horses will be extremely advantagious to those who may hereafter attempt the fir trade to the East Indies by way of the Columbia and the Pacific Ocian.-. The mules in the possession of the Inds. are principally Stolen from the Spaniards of New Mexico; Such as we have Seen appear to be large with Spanish brands. among the Sosones of the upper part of Lewis's river we Saw Several horses with Spanish brands on them which the nativs informed us Came from the South most probably from the Settlement in New Mexico, on the heads of the North river or waters of the Bay of California.
The horse is mainly found among the nations living in the great plains of Columbia, which stretch from latitude 40° to 50° N. and cover the area between the Rocky Mountains and a range of mountains that cross the Columbia River near the Great Falls, from longitude 116° to 121° W. In this vast, mostly treeless region, the following nations reside: the Sosone or Snake Indians living by the South Fork of the ____ River, the Chopunnish, Sokulk's, Cutssahnims, Chym na pum, Ehelutes, Eneshuh, and Chilluckkittequaws. All of them benefit from the gentle, generous, and valuable animal, the horse, and all except the last three have large numbers of them. Their horses appear to be of excellent stock; they are tall, elegantly built, active, and durable. In short, many of them resemble fine English racehorses and would stand out in any country. Some of these horses have large irregular white spots mixed with black, brown, bay, or other dark colors, but the majority are of a solid color with white markings like stars, snips, and white feet, similar to our best-bred horses in the U.S., which they also match in speed, endurance, form, and color. The natives allow them to roam freely on the plains, where the grass provides their only food. Their owners put in no effort to store food for the winter, but the horses remain fat if not heavily used. During winter, they survive on the dry grass of the plains. It rarely rains in these plains, resulting in short, sparse grass. The natives seem to make little effort to select their male horses for breeding; those I observed of that type appear quite indifferent. Whether the horses are originally from this region or not, I cannot determine because we don’t understand the natives' language well enough to ask. In any case, the region and climate seem well-suited for this animal. Horses are said to be found wild in many parts of this vast plain country. Several tribes of Sosones living near Mexico along the waters of Clark's River, particularly one called Shd-bo-bo-ah, also possess many mules, which I find are valued more highly than horses among the Indians. A fine horse can be bought from the natives in this area for a few beads or other trivial trinkets that would cost only one or two dollars in the United States. This abundance and low cost of horses will be very advantageous for anyone who may later attempt to trade fur to the East Indies via the Columbia and the Pacific Ocean. The mules owned by the Indians are mainly stolen from the Spaniards in New Mexico; those we've seen appear to be large and bear Spanish brands. Among the Sosones at the upper part of Lewis's River, we saw several horses with Spanish brands, which the natives informed us had come from the south, likely from the settlements in New Mexico, near the heads of the North River or the waters of the Bay of California.
[Lewis, February 16, 1806]
Sunday February 16th 1806. By several trials made today in order to adjust my Octant and ascertain her error in the direct observation, I found that it was 2° 1' 45" + or additive beyond the fracture; this error was ascertained by a comparison with my sextant the error of which had been previously ascertained. the error of Octant in the direct observation on the broken limb next to 0 or below 55° 20 inclusive is 2° additive only.—Sent Shannon Labuish and Frazier this morning on a hunting excurtion up the Kil-haw'-a-nak-kle river which discharges itself into the head of the bay. no tidings yet of Sergt. Gass and party. Bratton is still very weak and complains of a pain in the lower part of the back when he moves which I suppose procedes from dability. I gave him barks. Gibson's fever still continues obstenate tho not very high; I gave him a doze of Dr. Rush's which in many instances I have found extreemly efficatious in fevers which are in any measure caused by the presence of boil. the nitre has produced a profuse perspiration this evening and the pills operated late at night his fever after which abated almost entirely and he had a good night's rest.
Sunday, February 16th, 1806. I conducted several tests today to adjust my octant and determine its error during direct observation. I found that the error was 2° 1' 45" additive beyond the fracture; this was confirmed by comparing it with my sextant, which I had previously calibrated. The octant's error during direct observation on the broken limb, next to 0 or below 55° 20 inclusive, is only 2° additive. I sent Shannon, Labuish, and Frazier this morning on a hunting trip up the Kil-haw-a-nak-kle River, which flows into the head of the bay. There’s still no news from Sergt. Gass and his group. Bratton is still quite weak and complains of pain in the lower back when he moves, which I suspect is due to weakness. I gave him barks. Gibson's fever is still stubborn but not very high; I gave him a dose of Dr. Rush's remedy, which I have often found to be very effective for fevers associated with boils. The nitre caused him to sweat profusely this evening, and the pills worked late at night; after that, his fever decreased almost entirely, and he had a good night's rest.
The Indian dog is usually small or much more so than the common cur. they are party coloured; black white brown and brindle are the most usual colours. the head is long and nose pointed eyes small, ears erect and pointed like those of the wolf, hair short and smooth except on the tail where it is as long as that of the curdog and streight. the natives do not eat them nor appear to make any other use of them but in hunting the Elk as has been before observed.—The brown white or grizly bear are found in the rocky mountains in the timbered parts of it or Westerly side but rarely; they are more common below the rocky Mountain on the borders of the plains where there are copses of brush and underwood near the watercouses. they are by no means as plenty on this side of the rocky mountains as on the other, nor do I beleive that they are found atall in the woody country, which borders this coast as far in the interior as the range of mountains which, pass the Columbia between the Great Falls and rapids of that river. the black bear differs not any from those common to the United states and are found under the rocky Mountains in the woody country on the borders of the great plains of columbia and also in this tract of woody country which lie between these plains and the Pacific Ocean. their oconimy and habits are also the same with those of the United States.
The Indian dog is usually small, often smaller than the common cur. They have a mix of colors; black, white, brown, and brindle are the most common. Their heads are long with pointed noses, small eyes, and ears that are erect and pointy like a wolf's. Their fur is short and smooth except on the tail, which is as long as that of a cur dog and straight. The locals don’t eat them or seem to use them for anything other than hunting elk, as previously mentioned. The brown, white, or grizzly bear can be found in the Rocky Mountains, mostly in the wooded areas on the western side, but they are rare. They are more common below the Rocky Mountains along the edges of the plains where there are thickets and underbrush near water sources. They are not as plentiful on this side of the Rocky Mountains as they are on the other side, and I don’t believe they are found at all in the forested areas along this coast as far inland as the range of mountains that runs between the Columbia River’s Great Falls and rapids. The black bear is similar to those commonly found in the United States and is located under the Rocky Mountains in the wooded areas bordering the great plains of Columbia, as well as in the forests between those plains and the Pacific Ocean. Their economy and habits are also the same as those of bears in the United States.
[Clark, February 16, 1806]
Sunday February 16th 1806 Sent Shannon Labiesh and frazier on a hunting excurtion up the Kilhaw-a-nak-kle river which discharges itself into the head of Meriwethers Bay. no word yet of Sergt. Gass and party. Bratten is verry weak and complains of a pain in the lower part of the back when he moves which I suppose proceeds from debility. I gave him barks and Salt peter. Gibsons fever Still Continues obstinate tho not verry high; we gave him a dose of Dr. Rushes pills which in maney instancis I have found extreamly efficasious in fevers which are in any measure Caused by the presence of boil. the niter has produced a perfuse perspiration this evening and the pils opperated late at night his feaver after which abated almost intirely and he had a good nights rest.
Sunday, February 16th, 1806 Sent Shannon, Labiesh, and Frazier on a hunting trip up the Kilhaw-a-nak-kle River, which flows into the head of Meriwether's Bay. No word yet from Sgt. Gass and his group. Bratten is very weak and complains of pain in his lower back when he moves, which I assume is due to weakness. I gave him bark and saltpeter. Gibson's fever is still stubborn, though not very high; we gave him a dose of Dr. Rush's pills, which I have found to be extremely effective in treating fevers linked to the presence of boils. The saltpeter caused him to sweat a lot this evening, and the pills worked late at night; after that, his fever almost completely subsided, and he had a good night’s rest.
The Indian Dogs are usually small or much more so than the common cur. they are party coloured; black white brown and brindle are the more usual colours. the head is long and nose pointed eyes Small, ears erect and pointed like those of the wolf, hair Short and Smooth except on the tail where it is as long as that of the Cur dog and streight. the nativs do not eate them, or make any further use of them than in hunting the Elk as has been before observed. Shannon an Labiesh brought in to us to day a Buzzard or Vulture of the Columbia which they had wounded and taken alive. I believe this to be the largest Bird of North America. it was not in good order and yet it wayed 25 lbs had it have been so it might very well have weighed 10 lbs. more or 35 lbs. between the extremities of the wings it measured 9 feet 2 Inches; from the extremity of the beak to that of the toe 3 feet 9 inches and a half. from hip to toe 2 feet, girth of the head 9 inches 3/4. Girth of the neck 71/2 inches; Girth of the body exclusive of the wings 2 feet 3 inches; girth of the leg 3 inches. the diameter of the eye 41/2 10ths of an inch, the iris of a pale scarlet red, the puple of a deep Sea green or black and occupies about one third of the diameter of the eye the head and part of the neck as low as the figures 12 is uncovered with feathers except that portion of it represented by dots foward and under the eye. (See likeness on the other Side of this leaf) the tail is Composed of twelve feathers of equal length, each 14 inches. the legs are 43/4 inches in length and of a whitefish colour uncovered with feathers, they are not entirely Smooth but not imbricated; the toes are four in number three of which are foward and that in the center much the longest; the fourth is Short and is inserted near the inner of the three other toes and reather projecting foward. the thye is covered with feathers as low as the Knee. the top or upper part of the toes are imbricated with broad scales lying transversly; the nails are black and in proportion to the Size of the bird comparitively with those of the Hawk or Eagle, Short and bluntly pointed—-the under Side of the wing is Covered with white down and feathers. a white Stripe of about 2 inches in width, also marks the outer part of the wing, imbraceing the lower points of the feathers, which cover the joints of the wing through their whole length or width of that part of the wing. all the other feathers of whatever part are of a Glossy Shineing black except the down, which is not glossy, but equally black. the Skin of the beak and head to the joining of the neck is of a pale orrange Yellow, the other part uncovered with feathers is of a light flesh Colour. the Skin is thin and wrinkled except on the beak where it is Smooth. This bird fly's very clumsily. nor do I know whether it ever Seizes it's prey alive, but am induced to believe it does not. we have Seen it feeding on the remains of the whale and other fish which have been thrown up by the waves on the Sea Coast. these I believe constitute their principal food, but I have no doubt but that they also feed on flesh. we did not meet with this bird untille we had decended the Columbia below the great falls; and have found them more abundant below tide water than above. this is the Same Species of Bird which R. Field killed on the 18th of Novr. last and which is noticed on that day tho not fully discribed then I thought this of the Buzzard Specis. I now believe that this bird is reather of the Vulture genus than any other, tho it wants Some of their characteristics particularly the hair on the neck, and the feathers on the legs. this is a handsom bird at a little distance. it's neck is proportionably longer than those of the Hawks or Eagle. Shannon also brought a Grey Eagle which appeared to be of the Same kind common to the U, States. it weighed 15 pds. and measured 7 feet 7 inches between the extremities of the wings
The Indian Dogs are usually small, often smaller than the common cur. They have a mix of colors; black, white, brown, and brindle are the most common. Their heads are long with pointed noses, small eyes, and ears that are erect and pointy like a wolf's. Their fur is short and smooth, except on the tail, which is as long and straight as that of a cur dog. The natives do not eat them or use them for anything other than hunting elk, as mentioned earlier. Today, Shannon and Labiesh brought us a buzzard or vulture from the Columbia that they had wounded and captured alive. I believe this is the largest bird in North America. It wasn’t in good shape, but it weighed 25 pounds; if it had been in better condition, it might have weighed 10 pounds more, around 35 pounds. From wingtip to wingtip, it measured 9 feet 2 inches; from the tip of the beak to the toes, it measured 3 feet 9.5 inches; from the hip to the toe, it was 2 feet long; the head's girth was 9.75 inches; the neck's girth was 7.5 inches; the body’s girth, excluding the wings, was 2 feet 3 inches; and the leg's girth was 3 inches. The diameter of the eye was 4.5 tenths of an inch, the iris was pale scarlet red, and the pupil was a deep sea green or black, taking up about one-third of the eye's diameter. The head and part of the neck down to the figure 12 are featherless, except for a dotted area in front and under the eye. (See likeness on the other side of this leaf.) The tail has twelve feathers of equal length, each measuring 14 inches. The legs are 4.75 inches long and a white-fish color, unfeathered. They aren’t completely smooth but not imbricated either. There are four toes: three are in front, with the center toe being the longest; the fourth toe is short and placed near the inner side of the other three, protruding forward. The thigh is covered with feathers down to the knee. The tops of the toes have broad scales lying transversely. The nails are black and, for the bird’s size, are comparatively short and bluntly pointed compared to those of a hawk or eagle. The underside of the wing is covered with white down and feathers. A white stripe about 2 inches wide also marks the outer part of the wing, embracing the lower points of the feathers that cover the joints along the entire length of that part of the wing. All the other feathers, regardless of where they are located, are glossy black except for the down, which, although not glossy, is also black. The skin of the beak and head, up to where it connects with the neck, is a pale orange-yellow, while the other exposed skin is a light flesh color. The skin is thin and wrinkled, except on the beak where it is smooth. This bird flies very awkwardly. I’m not sure if it ever catches prey alive, but I suspect it doesn’t. We’ve seen it feeding on whale remnants and other fish that the waves have washed ashore. I believe those are its main food sources, but I’m sure it also eats meat. We only encountered this bird after descending the Columbia below the great falls; we found them to be more abundant below tidewater than above. This is the same species that R. Field killed on November 18th, which was noted that day, though not fully described. At that time, I thought it was a buzzard. Now, I believe this bird is more closely related to the vulture genus than any other, although it lacks some of their characteristics, particularly the feathers on the neck and legs. This is a handsome bird from a distance, and its neck is proportionately longer than that of hawks or eagles. Shannon also brought a gray eagle that appeared to be the same kind that’s common in the U.S. It weighed 15 pounds and measured 7 feet 7 inches from wingtip to wingtip.
Shannon and Labiesh informed us that when he approached this Vulture after wounding it, that it made a loud noise very much like the barking of a Dog. the tongue is long firm and broad, filling the under Chap and partakeing of its transvirs curvature, or its Sides forming a longitudinal Groove; obtuse at the point, the margin armed with firm cartelagenous prickkles pointed and bending inwards.
Shannon and Labiesh told us that when he got close to this vulture after injuring it, it made a loud sound that resembled the barking of a dog. The tongue is long, firm, and broad, filling the lower jaw and following its transverse curvature, with its sides forming a longitudinal groove; it is blunt at the tip, and the edge is lined with firm, cartilaginous prickles that are pointed and curve inward.
[Lewis, February 17, 1806]
Monday February 17th 1806. Collins and Windsor were permited to hunt today towards the praries in Point Adams with a view to obtain some fresh meat for the sick. a little before noon Shannon LaBuishe & Frazier returned with the flesh and hide of an Elk which had been wouded by Sergt. Gass's party and took the water where they pursued it and caught it. they did not see Sergt. Gass or any of his party nor learn what further success they had had. continue the barks with Bratton, and commenced them with Gibson his fever being sufficiently low this morning to permit the uce of them. I think therefore that there is no further danger of his recovery.—at 2 P.M. Joseph Fields arrived from the Salt works and informed us that they had about 2 Kegs of salt on hand which with what we have at this place we suppose will be sufficient to last us to our deposits of that article on the Missouri. we there directed a party of six men to go with Fields in the morning in order to bring the salt and kettles to the fort. Shannon brought me one of the large carrion Crow or Buzzads of the Columbia which they had wounded and taken alive. I bleive this to be the largest bird of North America. it was not in good order and yet it weighed 25 lbs. had it have been so it might very well have weighed 10 lbs mor or 35 lbs. between the extremities of the wings it measured 9 feet 2 inches; from the extremity of the beak to that of the toe 3 F. 91/2 In. from hip to toe 2 feet, girth of head 93/4 In. girth of the neck 71/2 Inches; do. of body exclusive of the wings 2 feet 3 Inches; do of leg 3 inches. diameter of the eye 41/2/toths of an inch. the iris of a pale scarlet red, the puple of deep sea green or black and occupyed about one third of the diameter of the eye. the head and a part of the neck as low as the figures 12 is uncovered with feathers except that portion of it represented by dots (see likeness). the tail is composed of 12 feathers of equal length, each 14 inches. the legs are 43/4 inches in length and of a white colour un covered with feathers, they are not entirely smooth but not imbricated; the toes are four in number three of which are forward and that in the center much the longes; the fourth is short and is inserted near the inner of the three other toes and reather projecting forward. the thye is covered with feathers as low as the knee. the top or upper part of the toes are imbricated with broad scales lying transversly; the nails are blak and in proportion to the size of the bird comparitively with those of the halk or Eagle, short and bluntly pointed. the under side of the wing is covered with white down and feathers. a white stripe of about two inches in width, also marks the outer part of the wing, imbracing the lower points of the feathers, which cover the joints of the wing through their whole length or width of that part of the wing. all the other feathers of whatever part are glossey shining black except the down which is not glossey but equally black. the skin of the beak and head to the joining of the neck is of a pale orrange yellow the other part uncovered with feathers is of a light flesh colour. the skin is thin and wrinkled except on the beak where it is smooth. this bird flys very clumsily nor do I know whether it ever seizes it's prey alive, but am induced to beleive that it dose not. we have seen it feeding on the remains of the whale & other fish which have been thrown up by the waves on the sea coast. these I beleive constitute their prinsipal food, but I have no doubt but they also feed on flesh; we did not met with this bird untill we had decended the Columbia below the great falls, and have found them more abundant below tide-water than above. I beleive that this bird is reather of the Vulture genus than any other, tho it wants some of their charactaristics particularly the hair on the neck and feathers on the legs.—this is a handsome bird at a little distance. it's neck is proportionably longer than those of the hawks or Eagle. Shannon also brought me a grey Eagle which appeared to be of the same kind common to the U States; it weighed 15 lb. and measured 7 Feet 7 Inches between the extremities of the wings.—At 4 P.M. Sergt. Gass and party arrived; they had killed eight Elk. Drewyer and Whitehouse also returned late in the evening, had killed one Elk.- Labuishe informed me that when he approached this vulture, after wounding it, that it made a loud noise very much like the barking of a dog & the tongue is large firm and broad, filling the under chap and partaking of it's transverse curvature, or it's sides colapsing upwards forming a longitudinal groove; obtuse at the point, the margin armed with firm cartelaginous prickkles pointed and bending inwards.
Monday, February 17th, 1806. Collins and Windsor were allowed to hunt today towards the prairies at Point Adams to get some fresh meat for the sick. A little before noon, Shannon LaBuishe and Frazier came back with the flesh and hide of an elk that had been wounded by Sergeant Gass's party. They followed the water where it was pursued and caught. They didn’t see Sergeant Gass or his party, nor did they find out how successful they were afterwards. Continued the barks with Bratton and started them with Gibson, as his fever was low enough this morning to allow it. Therefore, I believe there is no further danger regarding his recovery. At 2 P.M., Joseph Fields arrived from the salt works and told us they had about two kegs of salt on hand, which, along with what we have here, will probably last us until we reach our supplies in Missouri. We directed a group of six men to go with Fields in the morning to bring the salt and kettles to the fort. Shannon brought me one of the large carrion crows or buzzards of the Columbia that they had wounded and captured alive. I believe this is the largest bird in North America. It wasn’t in good condition, yet it weighed 25 lbs. If it had been in better shape, it could have weighed about 10 lbs more, or 35 lbs. Its wingspan measured 9 feet 2 inches; from the tip of the beak to the toe, it is 3 feet 9.5 inches; from hip to toe, 2 feet; head girth 9.75 inches; neck girth 7.5 inches; body girth, not counting the wings, 2 feet 3 inches; leg circumference 3 inches. The eye measures 4.5/100th of an inch in diameter, with a pale scarlet red iris, and the pupil is deep sea green or black, occupying about one-third of the eye's diameter. The head and part of the neck, down to the point marked by the number 12, are bare of feathers except for the dotted area (see likeness). The tail consists of 12 feathers, all of equal length, each 14 inches long. The legs are 4.75 inches long and white, without feathers. They are not completely smooth but not imbricated; there are four toes—three pointing forward, with the central toe being the longest. The fourth toe is shorter and placed near the inner side of the other three, projecting slightly forward. The thigh is covered in feathers down to the knee. The tops of the toes are covered with broad, transversely oriented scales; the nails are black and proportionate to the size of the bird—comparable to those of a hawk or eagle, short and bluntly pointed. The underside of the wing is covered with white down and feathers. A white stripe, about two inches wide, also marks the outer part of the wing, encompassing the lower points of the feathers covering the joints of the wing throughout their entire length and width. All other feathers are glossy, shining black, except for the down, which is also black but not glossy. The skin of the beak and head, up to the neck, is a pale orange-yellow, while the remaining bare parts are light flesh-colored. The skin is thin and wrinkled except on the beak, where it is smooth. This bird flies very awkwardly, and I’m not sure if it ever catches its prey alive, but I tend to believe it does not. We have observed it feeding on the remains of whales and other fish washed ashore by the waves. I believe these primarily constitute their diet, but I’m sure they also eat flesh. We didn't encounter this bird until we descended the Columbia below the great falls, and we've found them to be more plentiful below tidewater than above. I think this bird is more related to the vulture genus than any other type, although it lacks some of their characteristics, particularly the hair on the neck and feathers on the legs. This is a striking bird from a distance. Its neck is relatively longer than those of hawks or eagles. Shannon also brought me a gray eagle, which seemed to be of the same kind common in the United States; it weighed 15 lbs and measured 7 feet 7 inches across the wings. At 4 P.M., Sergeant Gass and his party arrived; they had killed eight elk. Drewyer and Whitehouse also returned late in the evening; they had killed one elk. LaBuishe told me that when he approached this vulture after wounding it, it made a loud noise resembling the barking of a dog. Its tongue is large, firm, and broad, filling the lower jaw and curving transversely, with its sides collapsing upward, forming a longitudinal groove; it is blunt at the tip, and the edge has firm cartilaginous prickles that are pointed and bend inward.
[Clark, February 17, 1806]
Monday February 17th 1806 Collins and Windser were permited to hunt to day towards the praries in point Adams with a view to obtain Some fresh meat for the Sick. a little before noon Shannon and Labiesh & frazier Came with the flesh and hide of an Elk which had been wounded by Serjt. Gasses party and took the water where they pursued it and cought it. they did not See Sergt. Gass or any of his party or learn what further Sucksess they have had. Continu the barks with Bratten, and Commenced them with gibson his feaver being Sufficiently low this morning to permit the use of them. I think therefore that there is no further danger of his recovery.—-at 2 P.M. Joseph Field arrived from the Salt works and informd us that they had about 2 Kegs of Salt on hand (say 3 bushels) which with what we have at this place we suppose will be Sufficient to last us to our deposit of that article on the Missouri. we directed a party of Six men to go in the morning in order to bring the salt and Kittles to the Fort. at 4 P.M. Serjt. Gass and party arrive; they had killed 8 Elk. Drewyer and Whitehouse also return late in the evening, they had killed one Elk, part of the meat of which they brought in with them.
Monday, February 17, 1806 Collins and Windser were allowed to hunt today toward the prairies at Point Adams to get some fresh meat for the sick. A little before noon, Shannon, Labiesh, and Frazier came back with the meat and hide of an elk that had been wounded by Sergeant Gass's party. They chased it into the water and caught it. They didn’t see Sergeant Gass or any of his men, nor did they learn about any further success they had. I continued the barks with Bratten and started them with Gibson, as his fever was low enough this morning to allow us to do so. I think there is no further danger to his recovery. At 2 P.M., Joseph Field arrived from the salt works and told us they had about 2 kegs of salt on hand (about 3 bushels), which, along with what we have here, should be enough to last us until we reach our stash of that item on the Missouri. We instructed a party of six men to head out in the morning to bring the salt and kettles back to the Fort. At 4 P.M., Sergeant Gass and his party returned; they had killed 8 elk. Drewyer and Whitehouse also came back late in the evening; they had killed one elk and brought some of the meat with them.
The Brown, White, or Grizly Bear are found in the rocky mountains in the timbered part of it or Westerly Side but rarely; they are more Common below or on the East Side of the Rocky Mountains on the borders of the plains where there are Copses of bushes and underwood near the water cources. they are by no means as plenty on this Side of the Rocky Mountains as on the other, nor do I believe they are found at all in the woody country which borders this coast as far in the interior as the range of mountains which pass the Columbia between the enterance of Clarks and the Quick sand Rivers or below the Great falls of Columbia.
The Brown, White, or Grizzly Bear can be found in the Rocky Mountains, mostly in the forested areas on the western side, but they're rarely seen there; they are more common on the eastern side of the Rockies, along the edges of the plains, where there are thickets of bushes and underbrush near water sources. They are definitely not as plentiful on this side of the Rockies as they are on the other, and I don't think they're present at all in the wooded regions along this coast as far inland as the mountain range that runs between the entrances of Clark’s and the Quicksand Rivers or below the Great Falls of the Columbia.
The Black Bear differs not any from those Common to the U. States, and are found under the Rocky Mountains in the woody country on the borders of the Great Plain's of Columbia and also in this tract of woody country which lie between these plains and the Pacific Ocian. their econimy and habits are also the Same with those of the United States.-.
The Black Bear is no different from those commonly found in the U.S. They are located in the Rocky Mountains, in the forested areas along the borders of the Great Plains of Columbia, as well as in the wooded areas that lie between these plains and the Pacific Ocean. Their ecology and habits are also the same as those in the United States.
[Lewis, February 18, 1806]
Tuesday February 18th 1806. This morning we dispatched a party to the Saltworks with Sergt. Ordway and a second with Sergt. Gass after the Elk killed over the Netul. in the evening Sergt. Ordway returned and reported that the waves ran so high in the bay that he could not pass to the entrance of the creek which we had directed him to assend with the canoe. Collins and Winsor returned this evening with one deer which they had killed. the deer are poor and their flesh by no means as good as that of the Elk which is also poor but appears to be geting better than some weeks past.—in the forenoon we were visited by eight Clasops and Chinnooks from whom we purchased a Sea Otter's skin and two hats made of waytape and white ceder bark. they remained untill late in the evening and departed for their village. these people are not readily obstructed by waves in their canoes.—Sergt. Ordway brought me a specemine of a species of pine peculiar to the swamps and marshes frequently overflown by the tide as this is a distinct species I shall call it No. 7. this tree seldom rises to a greater hight than 35 feet and is from 21/2 to 4 feet in diameter; the stem is simple branching diffuse and proliferous. the bark the same with that of No. 1 only reather more rugged. the leaf is acerose, 2/10ths of an inch in width and 3/4 in length. they are firm stif and somewhat accuminated, ending in a short pointed hard tendril, gibbous, thickly scattered on all sides of the bough but rispect the three upper sides only. those which have there insersion on the underside incline sidewise with their points upwards giving the leaf the figure of a sythe. the others are perpendicular or pointing upwards. is sessile growing as in No. 1 from small triangular pedestals of a soft spungy elastic bark. the under disk of these leaves or that which grows nearest towards the base of the bough is a deep glossey green while the upper or opposite side is of a mealy whiteish pale green; in this rispect differing from almost all leaves. the boughs retain their leaves as far back as to the sixth years growth. the peculiarity of the bud scales observed in No 1 is observed in this species. The cone is 31/2 inches in length and 3 in circumpherence, of an ovate figure being thickest in the middle and tapering and terminating in two obtuse points. it is composes of small, flexible, thin, obtusely pointed smooth and redish brown imbricated scales. each scale covering two small winged seeds and being itself covered in the center by a small thin inferior scale accutely pointed. the cone is somewhat of this figure. they proceede from the side as well as the extremities of the bough but in the former case always at or near the commencement of some one years growth which is some instances are as far back as the third year.
Tuesday, February 18th, 1806. This morning, we sent a group to the Saltworks with Sgt. Ordway and another group with Sgt. Gass to pursue the elk that had been killed near the Netul. In the evening, Sgt. Ordway returned and reported that the waves in the bay were so high that he couldn’t get to the entrance of the creek we asked him to navigate with the canoe. Collins and Winsor got back this evening with one deer that they had killed. The deer are in poor condition, and its meat is definitely not as good as that of the elk, which is also poor but seems to be getting better than it was a few weeks ago. In the morning, we were visited by eight Clatsops and Chinooks, from whom we bought a sea otter skin and two hats made from blanket and white cedar bark. They stayed until late in the evening before heading back to their village. These people are not easily deterred by waves in their canoes. Sgt. Ordway brought me a specimen of a type of pine that is unique to the swamps and marshes frequently flooded by the tide. Since this is a distinct species, I will call it No. 7. This tree usually doesn’t grow taller than 35 feet and has a diameter between 2.5 to 4 feet; the trunk is simple, branching diffusely and prolifically. The bark is similar to that of No. 1 but a bit rougher. The needle-like leaves are 0.2 inches wide and 0.75 inches long; they are firm, stiff, and slightly pointed at the tip, rounding off into a short, pointed, hard tip, and are densely scattered on all sides of the branch but mainly on the three upper sides. The leaves attached on the underside slant sideways with their tips facing up, giving them the shape of a sickle. The others are vertical or point upwards. They are sessile, growing from small triangular bases of a soft, spongy, elastic bark, similar to No. 1. The underside of these leaves, closest to the base of the branch, is a deep glossy green, while the upper side is a mealy, pale green; this differs from almost all other leaves. The branches keep their leaves for up to six years. The unique bud scales noticed on No. 1 are also present in this species. The cone is 3.5 inches long and 3 inches in circumference, having an ovate shape, thickest in the middle, tapering off and ending in two blunt points. It consists of small, flexible, thin, blunt-tipped smooth reddish-brown overlapping scales. Each scale covers two small winged seeds and is itself covered in the center by a small, thin, pointed scale. The cone has this shape. They grow from both the sides and the tips of the branches, but when they grow from the sides, it’s always at or near the start of a year’s new growth, which in some cases can date back as far as the third year.
[Clark, February 18, 1806]
Tuesday February 18th 1806 This morning we dispatched a party to the Salt works with Sergt. Ordway. and a Second party with Sergt. Gass after the Eight Elk killed over the Netul. in the evening Sergt. Ordway returned and reported that the waves ran So high in the Bay that he could not pass to the enterance of a Creek which we had directed him to assend with the Canoe. Collins & Windsir returned this evening with one Deer which they had Killed. the deer are pore and their flesh by no means as good as that of the Elk which is also poore but appears to be getting better than Some weeks past. in the forenoon we were visited by a Clatsop & Seven Chinnooks from whome I purchased a Sea otter's Skin and two hats made of way tape and Silk grass and white cedar bark. they remained untill late in the evening and departed for their village. those people are not readily obstructed by waves in their Canoes. Since their departure we have discovered that they have Stole an ax.—Whitehouse brought me a roab which he purchased of the Indians formed of three Skins of the Tiger Cat, this Cat differs from any which I have ever Seen. it is found on the borders of the plains and the woody Country lying along the Pacific Ocian. this animale is about the Size or reather larger than the wild Cat of our Countrey and is much the Same in form, agility and ferosity. the colour of the back, neck and Sides, is a redish brown irrigular varigated with Small Spots of dark brown the tail is about two inches long nearly white except the extremity which is black; it termonates abruptly as if it had been cut off. the belly is white with Small black spots. butifully varigated. the legs are of the Same Colour with the Sides and back marked with transvers stripes of black the ears are black on the outer Side Covered with fine black hair, Short except at the upper point which is furnished with a pencil of verry fine Streight black hair, 3/4 of an inch in length, the fur of this animale is long and fine. much more So than the wild Cat of the U States but less so than the Louserva of the N West. the nativs of this Country make great use of the skins of this Cat, to form the robes which they wear; three whole Skins is the complement usually employed, and Sometimes four in each roab. Those Cats are not marked alike maney of them have but fiew Spots of a darker Colour, particularly on the Back.
Tuesday, February 18th, 1806. This morning, we sent a group to the salt works with Sergeant Ordway and a second group with Sergeant Gass to get the eight elk killed over the Netul. In the evening, Sergeant Ordway returned and reported that the waves were so high in the bay that he couldn’t get to the entrance of a creek we had told him to access with the canoe. Collins and Windsir came back this evening with one deer they had killed. The deer are poor, and their meat isn’t nearly as good as the elk, which is also poor but seems to be getting better than it was a few weeks ago. In the morning, we were visited by a Clatsop and seven Chinooks, from whom I bought a sea otter skin and two hats made of woven tape, silk grass, and white cedar bark. They stayed until late in the evening and then left for their village. These people can navigate the waves in their canoes without much trouble. Since they left, we discovered that they stole an ax. Whitehouse gave me a robe he bought from the Indians made from three tiger cat skins. This cat is unlike any I’ve seen before and is found along the plains and wooded areas by the Pacific Ocean. This animal is about the size or slightly larger than the wild cat from our country and has a similar form, agility, and ferocity. The color of the back, neck, and sides is a reddish-brown with irregular small spots of dark brown. The tail is about two inches long, nearly white except for the tip, which is black; it ends abruptly as if it were cut off. The belly is white with small black spots, beautifully patterned. The legs are the same color as the sides and back, marked with transverse black stripes. The ears are black on the outside, covered with fine black hair, short except for the upper tip, which has a tuft of very fine, straight black hair about three-quarters of an inch long. The fur of this animal is long and fine, much more so than the wild cat in the United States, but less so than the lynx in the Northwest. The natives of this country make great use of the skins of this cat to create the robes they wear; usually, three whole skins are used, sometimes four in each robe. These cats are not all marked the same; many have just a few darker spots, especially on the back.
[Lewis, February 19, 1806]
Wednesday February 19th 1806. Sergt. Ordway set out again this morning with a party for the salt works by land. in the evening Sergt. Gass returned with the flesh of eight Elk, and seven skins; having left one skin with Shannon and Labuishe who remained over the netul to continue the chase. we had the Elk skins divided among the messes in order that they might be prepared for covering our baggage when we set out in the spring. our sick are recovering but they appear to strengthen but slowly. The common red deer we found under the rocky mts. in the neighbourhood of the Chopunnish, and about the great falls of the Columbia river and as low down the same as the commencement of tide water. these do not appear to differ essentially from those of our country being about the same size shape and appearance in every rispect except their great length of tail which is more than half as long again as our deer I measured one of them which was 17 inches long. The Black tailed fallow deer are peculiar to this coast and are a distinct species of deer partaking equally of peculiarities of the mule deer and the common deer. their ears are reather larger and their winter coat darker than the common deer; the recepticle of the eye or drane is mor conspicuous; their legs shorter and body thicker and larger than the common deer; their tail is about the length of our deer or from 8 to 10 inches the hair on the underside of which is white, and that of it's sides and top quite black the horns resemble in form and colour those of the mule deer which it also resembles in it's gate; that is bounding with all four feet off the ground at the same time when runing at full speed and not loping as the common deer or antelope do. they are sometimes found in the woodlands but most frequently in the praries and open grounds. they may be said generally to be a size larger than the common deer and that less than the mule deer. they are very seldom found in good order, or fat, even in the season which the common deer are so, and their flesh is inferior to any species of deer which I have ever seen.-
Wednesday, February 19, 1806. Sergeant Ordway set out again this morning with a group for the salt works over land. In the evening, Sergeant Gass returned with the meat of eight elk and seven skins, having left one skin with Shannon and Labuishe, who stayed behind to continue the hunt. We divided the elk skins among the messes so they could be prepared to cover our baggage when we set out in the spring. Our sick are recovering, but it seems to be a slow process. We found the common red deer under the rocky mountains near the Chopunnish and around the great falls of the Columbia River, even down to where the tide water begins. They don’t seem to differ much from those in our area, being about the same size, shape, and appearance in every respect except for their long tails, which are more than one and a half times longer than our deer. I measured one that was 17 inches long. The black-tailed fallow deer are unique to this coast and are a distinct species, showing characteristics of both mule deer and common deer. Their ears are somewhat larger, and their winter coats are darker than those of common deer; the area around their eyes is more noticeable, their legs are shorter, and their bodies are thicker and larger than common deer. Their tails are about the same length as our deer, ranging from 8 to 10 inches, with white hair underneath and black hair on the sides and top. Their antlers resemble those of mule deer in both shape and color, and they also have a similar gait, bounding with all four feet off the ground at the same time when running at full speed, unlike common deer or antelope, which lope. They can sometimes be found in woodlands but are more often seen in prairies and open areas. Generally, they are slightly larger than common deer but smaller than mule deer. They are rarely found in good condition or fat, even in the season when common deer are, and their meat is inferior to any type of deer I've encountered.
[Clark, February 19, 1806]
Wednesday February 19th 1806. Sergt. Ordway Set out again with a party to the Salt works by land. in the evening Sergt. Gass returned with the flesh of Eight Elk, and Seven Skins haveing left one Skin with Shannon and Labiche who remained over the Netul to Continue the chase. we devided the Skins between the messes in order that they might be prepared for Covering the baggage when we Set out in the Spring. our Sick appear to Strengthen but Slowly I gave Bratten 6 of Scotts pills which did not work him. he is very weak and Complains of his back.
Wednesday, February 19th, 1806. Sergeant Ordway set out again with a group to the salt works over land. In the evening, Sergeant Gass returned with the meat of eight elk and seven skins, having left one skin with Shannon and Labiche, who stayed over the Netul to continue the hunt. We divided the skins among the groups so they could be prepared for covering the baggage when we set out in the spring. Our sick seem to be gaining strength but slowly. I gave Bratten six of Scott's pills, but they didn’t work for him. He is very weak and complains about his back.
The black Fox or as they are more frequently Called by the N West Trader Fisher is found in the woody country on this Coast. how this Animal obtained the name of fisher I know not, but certain it is, that the name is not appropriate, as it does not prey on or Seek it as a prey-. they are extreeinly active Strong and made for climbing which they do with great agility, and bound from tree to tree in pursute of the squirel or Rackoon, their natural and most usual food. their Colour is a jut Black except a Small Spot of white on the breast. the body is long, legs Short and formed Something like the turnspit Dog, with a remarkable long tail. it does not differ here from those of the United States.
The black fox, often referred to by Northwest traders as the fisher, is found in the wooded areas along this coast. I’m not sure how this animal got its name, but it definitely doesn’t fit, as it doesn’t hunt or seek fish as prey. They are extremely active, strong, and built for climbing, which they do with great agility, leaping from tree to tree in pursuit of squirrels or raccoons, their natural and most common food. Their color is a deep black, except for a small white spot on the chest. They have long bodies, short legs, and a shape somewhat similar to a turnspit dog, with a notably long tail. There’s no difference here compared to those in the United States.
The Silver Fox this animale is very rare even in the Countrey where it exists, I have never Seen more than the Skins of this Animal and those were in the possession of the nativs of the woody Country below the Great falls of the Columbia, from which I think it is most probably they are the inhabitants of the woody country exclusively. from the Skins, it appeard to be about the Size of the large red Fox of the plains and much of its form with a large tail. the legs I think somewhat longer it has a fine long deep fur poil. the poil is of a dark lead colour and the long hairs intermixed with it, are either white or black at the lower part, and white at top, the whole mixture forming a butifull Silver Grey. I think this the handsomest of all the Fox Species, except a Species of which I Saw one running, and Capt Lewis had a good view of another of the Same Species on the Missouri near the natural walls. The large red fox of the plains, and the Kit fox are the Same which we met with on the Missouri and are the inhabitants almost exclusively of the open plains, or of the copse of bushes within the plain country. the Common red or grey fox of the United States is also found in the woody country on this coast, nor does it appear to be altered in respect to it's fur colour or any other particular. we have Seen none of the large red fox.
The Silver Fox is a very rare animal, even in the region where it lives. I've only seen its skins, which were held by the natives of the wooded area below the great falls of the Columbia River. I think they are likely the only inhabitants of that wooded region. From the skins, it seems to be about the size of the large red fox found on the plains and has a similar shape, with a large tail. Its legs seem a bit longer, and it has fine, long, thick fur. The fur is a dark lead color, and the long hairs mixed in are either white or black at the bottom and white at the top, creating a beautiful silver gray. I believe this is the most handsome of all the fox species, except for a species I spotted running once, and Captain Lewis had a good view of another of the same species near the Missouri, close to the natural walls. The large red fox of the plains and the Kit fox are the same ones we encountered on the Missouri, and they mostly inhabit the open plains or the brushy areas within the plains. The common red or gray fox of the United States is also found in the wooded areas along this coast and doesn't seem to differ in terms of fur color or any other features. We haven't seen any of the large red foxes.
[Lewis, February 20, 1806]
Thursday February 20th 1806. Permited Collins to hunt this morning he returned in the evening unsuccessfull as to the chase but brought with him some cranberries for the sick. Gibson is on the recovery fast; Bratton has an obstenate cough and pain in his back and still appears to be geting weaker. McNeal from his inattention to his disorder has become worse.
Thursday, February 20th, 1806. I allowed Collins to go hunting this morning. He came back in the evening unsuccessful in the hunt but brought some cranberries for the sick. Gibson is recovering quickly; Bratton has a persistent cough and back pain and still seems to be getting weaker. McNeal has gotten worse due to his neglect of his condition.
This forenoon we were visited by Tdh-cum a principal Chief of the Chinnooks and 25 men of his nation. we had never seen this cheif before he is a good looking man of about 50 years of age reather larger in statue than most of his nation; as he came on a friendly visit we gave himself and party some thing to eat and plyed them plentifully with smoke. we gave this cheif a small medal with which he seemed much grati-fyed. in the evening at sunset we desired them to depart as is our custom and closed our gates. we never suffer parties of such number to remain within the fort all night; for notwithstanding their apparent friendly disposition, their great averice and hope of plunder might induce them to be treacherous. at all events we determined allways to be on our guard as much as the nature of our situation will permit us, and never place our selves at the mercy of any savages. we well know, that the treachery of the aborigenes of America and the too great confidence of our countrymen in their sincerity and friendship, has caused the distruction of many hundreds of us. so long have our men been accustomed to a friendly intercourse with the natives, that we find it difficult to impress on their minds the necessity of always being on their guard with rispect to them. this confidence on our part, we know to be the effect of a series of uninterupted friendly intercouse, but the well known treachery of the natives by no means entitle them to such confidence, and we must check it's growth in our own minds, as well as those of our men, by recollecting ourselves, and repeating to our men, that our preservation depends on never loosing sight of this trait in their character, and being always prepared to meet it in whatever shape it may present itself.-
This morning, we were visited by Tdh-cum, a chief of the Chinooks, along with 25 men from his tribe. We had never met this chief before; he is a handsome man, about 50 years old, and larger than most of his people. Since he came on a friendly visit, we offered him and his party something to eat and provided them with plenty of tobacco. We gave this chief a small medal, which seemed to please him very much. In the evening, at sunset, we asked them to leave, as is our custom, and we closed our gates. We never allow large groups to stay within the fort overnight; despite their seemingly friendly behavior, their greed and desire for plunder might lead them to be treacherous. In any case, we decided to always stay alert, as much as our situation allows, and never put ourselves at the mercy of any savages. We know well that the deceit of Native Americans and the excessive trust of our countrymen in their honesty and friendship have led to the downfall of many of us. Our men have been so used to friendly interactions with the natives that we find it hard to convince them of the need to always remain cautious with them. This trust we have comes from a long history of uninterrupted friendly relations, but the well-known deceitfulness of the natives does not warrant such confidence, and we must curb its growth in our minds as well as in our men's by reminding ourselves and our men that our safety depends on never losing sight of this trait in their character and being always prepared to confront it in whatever form it may take.
The Mule deer are the same with those of the plains of the Missouri so frequently mentioned. we met with them under the Rocky mountains in the Neighbourhood of the Chopunnish nation on the Kooskooske river, but have not seen them since nor do we know whether they exist in the interior of the great plains of Columbia or on their lower border near the mountains which pass the river about the great falls. The Elk is the same with that found in much the greatest portion of North America, they are common to every part of this country, as well the timbered lands as the plains, but are much more abundant in the former than the latter The large brown woolf is like that of the Atlantic States and are found only in the woody country on the Pacific Ocean imbracing the mountains which pass the Columbia between the great falls and rapids of the same. the large and small woolves of the plains are the inhabitants principally of the open country and the woodlands on their borders and resemble in their habits and appearance those of the plains of the Missouri precisely. they are not abundant in the plains of Columbia because there is but little game on which for them to subsist.
The Mule deer are similar to those found in the plains of Missouri that are often mentioned. We encountered them under the Rocky Mountains near the Chopunnish nation along the Kooskooske River, but we haven’t seen them since, nor do we know if they exist in the interior of the great plains of Columbia or along their lower edge near the mountains that cross the river around the great falls. The Elk are the same as those found in most of North America; they are common throughout this country, inhabiting both timbered areas and plains, but they are much more plentiful in the former than the latter. The large brown wolf is similar to that of the Atlantic States and is found only in the wooded regions along the Pacific Ocean, including the mountains that run alongside the Columbia between the great falls and its rapids. The large and small wolves of the plains mainly inhabit the open areas and the adjacent woodlands, showing habits and appearance identical to those of the plains of Missouri. They are not plentiful in the plains of Columbia because there is very little game for them to feed on.
[Clark, February 20, 1806]
Thursday February 20th 1806. Permited Collins to hunt this morning he returned in the evening unsucksessfull as to the chase, but brought with him Some Cramberries for the Sick. Gibson is on the recovery fast; Bratten has an obstinate Cough and pain in his back and Still appears to be getting weaker. H. McNeal from his inattention to his disorder has become worse. Willard has a high fever and complains of the pain in his head and want of appetite.
Thursday, February 20th, 1806. I let Collins go hunting this morning; he came back in the evening unsuccessful in the hunt but brought some cranberries for the sick. Gibson is recovering quickly; Bratten has a stubborn cough and back pain and still seems to be getting weaker. H. McNeal, due to not taking care of his illness, has gotten worse. Willard has a high fever and complains of a headache and lack of appetite.
The forenoon we were visited by Tfih-cum a principal chief of the Chinnooks and 25 men of his nation. we had never Seen this Chief before he is a good looking man of about 50 years of age reather larger in Statue than most of his nation; as he came on a friendly visit we gave himself and party something to eate and plyed them plenty fully with Smoke. we gave this chief a small Medal with which he Seamed much pleased. in the evening at Sunset we desired them to depart as is our custom and Close our gates. we never Suffer parties of Such numbers to remain within the Fort all night; for not withstanding their apparent friendly disposition, their great averis and hope of plunder might induce them to be treacherous. at all events we are determined always to be on our guard, as much as the nature of our Situation will permit us, and never place our selves at the mercy of any Savages. we well know, that the treachery of the Aborigenes of America and the too great confidence of our country men in their friendship and fadility has caused the distruction of maney hundreds of us. so long has our men been accustomed to a friendly intercourse with the nativs, that we find it dificult to impress on their minds the necessity of always being on their Guard with respect to them. this confidence on our part we know to be the effect of a serious of a friendly and unintorupted intercourse. but the well Known treachery of the natives by no means entitle them to Such confidence, and we must check it's groth in our own minds as well as those of our men, by recollecting our selves, and repeating to our men, that our preservation depends on our never loseing Sight of this trate in their character, and being always prepared to meet it in whatever Shape it may present itself
In the morning, we were visited by Tfih-cum, a chief of the Chinnooks, along with 25 men from his tribe. We had never seen this chief before; he is a good-looking man around 50 years old and taller than most of his people. Since he came for a friendly visit, we offered him and his group something to eat and shared plenty of smoke with them. We gave this chief a small medal, which he seemed quite pleased with. In the evening at sunset, we asked them to leave, as is our custom, and we closed our gates. We never allow large groups like this to stay within the fort overnight; despite their friendly demeanor, their greed and desire for plunder could lead them to be treacherous. Regardless, we are always determined to stay on guard as much as our situation allows, and never put ourselves at the mercy of any savages. We know well that the deceit of the Indigenous people of America and our countrymen's misplaced trust in their friendship and friendliness have led to the destruction of many of us. Our men have been so used to friendly interactions with the natives that it’s difficult to instill in them the need to remain vigilant. We recognize that this trust comes from a long history of friendly and uninterrupted interactions. However, the well-known deceitfulness of the natives does not warrant such trust, and we must curb this mindset in ourselves and our men by reminding ourselves and reiterating to our men that our survival depends on never losing sight of this trait in their character and being always prepared to face it in whatever form it may take.
The Mule Deer are the Same with those of the Plains of the Missouri So frequently mentioned. we met with them under the rocky mountains in the neighbourhood of the Chopunnish Nation on the Koskooske river, but have not Seen them Since nor do we know whether they exist in the interiors of the great Plains of Columbia, or on the lower border near the mountains which pass the river about the great falls. The Elk is the Same with that found in much the greater portion of North America, they are common to every part of this Country, as well the timbered lands as the plains. but are much more abundant in the former than the latter
The Mule Deer are the same as those from the plains of Missouri that are often mentioned. We encountered them in the Rocky Mountains near the Chopunnish Nation on the Koskooske River, but we haven't seen them since, nor do we know if they exist in the interior regions of the great Columbia Plains or along the lower borders near the mountains that cross the river by the great falls. The Elk is the same as those found in most of North America; they are common throughout this country, both in wooded areas and in the plains, but they are much more plentiful in the forests than in the plains.
[Lewis, February 21, 1806]
Friday February 21st 1806. Visited this morning by 3 Clatsop who remained with us all day; they are great begers; I gave one of them a few nedles with which he appeared much gratifyed. in the evening late they departed. Drewyer and Collins went in pursuit of some Elk, the tracks of which Collins had discovered yesterday; but it rained so hard that they could not pursue them by their tracks and returned unsuccessfull. Drewyer saw a fisher black fox but it escaped from him among the fallen timber. Sergt. Ordway returned with the party from the salt camp which we have now evacuated. they brought with them the salt and eutensils. our stock of salt is now about 20 Gallons; 12 gallons of which we secured in 2 small iron bound kegs and laid by for our voyage. gave Willard and bratton each a doze of Scotts pills; on the former they operated and on the latter they (lid not. Gibson still continues the barks three times a day and is on the recovery fast.-
Friday, February 21, 1806. This morning, three Clatsop visited us and stayed all day; they are very good at asking for things. I gave one of them a few needles, which made him very happy. They left late in the evening. Drewyer and Collins went to track some elk, the tracks of which Collins had found yesterday, but it rained so heavily that they couldn’t follow the tracks and returned unsuccessful. Drewyer spotted a fisher black fox, but it got away among the fallen timber. Sergeant Ordway came back with the team from the salt camp, which we have now left behind. They brought back the salt and utensils. Our salt supply is now about 20 gallons; we secured 12 gallons in 2 small iron-bound kegs and set them aside for our journey. I gave Willard and Bratton each a dose of Scott's pills; the former were affected, while the latter were not. Gibson continues to take the bark three times a day and is recovering quickly.
The tyger Cat is found on the borders of the plains and in the woody country lying along the Pacific Ocean. this animal is about the size or reather larger than the wild cat of our country and is much the same in form, agility and ferosity. the colour of the back neck and sides is a redish brown irregularly variegated with small spots of dark brown the tail is about two inches long nearly white except the extremity which is black; it terminates abruptly as if it had been cut off. the belly is white with small black spots, beautifully variagated. the legs are of the same colour with the sides and back marked with transverse stripes of black the ears are black on the outer side covered with fine short hair except at the upper point which furnished with a pensil of fine, streight, black hair, = 3/4 of an inch in length. the fur of this anamal is long and fine, much more so than the wild cat of the United States but less so than that of Louservea of the N. West. the natives in this quarter make great use of the skins of this Cat to form the robes which they wear; four skins is the compliment usuly employed in each robe. the Black fox, or as they most frequently called in the neighbourhood of Detroit, Fisher is found in the woody country on this coast. how this animal obtained the name of fisher I know not, but certain it is, that the name is not appropriate, as it dose not prey on fish or seek it as a prey. they are extreemly active strong and prepared for climbing, which they do with great agility, and bound from tree to tree in pursuit of the squirrel or Rackoon their natural and most usual food. their colour is a jut black except a small spot of white on the breast. the body is long, legs short and formed something like the ternspit dog with a remarkable long tail. it dose not differ here from those of the United States. The Silver fox this animal is very rare even in the country where it exists; I have never seen more than the Skins of this anamal and those were in the possession of the natives of the woody Country below the great falls of the Columbia from which I think that it is most probably the inhabtant of the woody country exclusively. from the skin it appeared to be about the size of the large red fox of the plains and much of it's form with a large tail. the legs I think somewhat longer. it has a fine long deep fur poll. the poil is of a dark lead colour and the long hairs intermixed with it are either white or black at the lower part and white at the top, the whole mixture forming a beatifull silver grey. I think this the most beautifull of all the Foxes except species of which I saw one only on the Missouri near the natural walls. the large red fox of the plains and the Kit fox are the same which we met with on the Missouri and are the inhabitants almost exclusively of the open plains, or of the cops of brush within the pain country. The common red fox of the United States is also found in the woody country on this coast nor dose it appear to be altered in rispect to it's fur colour or any other particular
The tiger cat is found on the edges of the plains and in the wooded areas along the Pacific Ocean. This animal is about the size of or slightly larger than the wildcat from our country and is similar in shape, agility, and fierceness. The back, neck, and sides are a reddish-brown color, irregularly spotted with small dark brown spots. The tail is about two inches long, mostly white except for the tip, which is black; it ends abruptly as if it had been cut off. The belly is white with small black spots, beautifully patterned. The legs match the color of the sides and back and are marked with transverse black stripes; the outer side of the ears is black and covered with fine short hair, except at the tip, which has a pencil-like tuft of straight black hair about 3/4 of an inch long. The fur of this animal is long and fine, significantly softer than that of the wildcat in the United States but less so than that of the Louservea from the Northwest. The natives in this area make great use of the skins of this cat to create the robes they wear; four skins are typically used for each robe. The black fox, commonly referred to as the fisher in the Detroit area, is found in the wooded region along this coast. I don’t know how this animal got the name fisher, but it's clear that the name isn't fitting since it doesn’t prey on fish. They are extremely active, strong, and well-suited for climbing, which they do with great agility, leaping from tree to tree in pursuit of squirrels or raccoons, their primary food. Their fur is a deep black except for a small white spot on the chest. The body is long, legs short, and shaped somewhat like a terrier dog, with a notably long tail. They do not differ here from those in the United States. The silver fox is quite rare, even in its native range; I have only seen its skins, which were held by the natives from the wooded area below the great falls of the Columbia, suggesting that it likely inhabits the wooded regions exclusively. From its skin, it seems to be about the size of the large red fox of the plains and similar in form, with a large tail. I think its legs are somewhat longer. It has a fine, long, dense fur coat. The fur is a dark lead color, with long hairs mixed in that are either white or black at the bottom and white at the top, creating a beautiful silver-gray appearance. I believe this is the most beautiful of all the foxes, except for a species that I only saw once near the Missouri River by the natural walls. The large red fox of the plains and the kit fox are the same ones we encountered along the Missouri and are primarily found in the open plains or brushy areas within the plains. The common red fox of the United States is also found in the wooded regions on this coast and does not appear to differ in fur color or any other specifics.
[Clark, February 21, 1806]
Friday February 21st 1806 Visited this morning by three Clatsops, who remained with us all day; they are great begers; Capt Lewis gave one of them a fiew nedles with which he appeared much gratified, in the evening late they departed.
Friday, February 21st, 1806. We had three Clatsops visit us this morning, and they stayed with us all day; they are quite the beggars. Captain Lewis gave one of them a few needles, which he seemed very pleased with. They left late in the evening.
Drewyer and Collins went in pursute of Some Elk the tracks of which Collins had discovered yesterday; but it rained So hard they Could not pursue them by the tracks, and returned unsucksessfull. Drewyer Saw a fisher but it escaped from him among the fallen timber. Sergt. Ordway returned with the party from the Salt Camp which we have now avacuated. they brought with them the Salt and utensels. our Stock of Salt is now about 20 Gallons; 12 Gallons we had Secured in 2 Small iron bound Kegs and laid by for our voyage. Gave Willard a dose of Scots pills; they opperated very well. Gibson Still Continus the bark 3 times a day and is on the recovery fast.
Drewyer and Collins went in search of some elk whose tracks Collins had found yesterday; however, it rained so heavily that they couldn’t follow the tracks and returned unsuccessful. Drewyer spotted a fisher, but it escaped among the fallen timber. Sergeant Ordway returned with the party from the Salt Camp, which we have now vacated. They brought back the salt and utensils. Our supply of salt is now about 20 gallons; we had secured 12 gallons in two small iron-bound kegs and set them aside for our trip. I gave Willard a dose of Scots pills; they worked very well. Gibson is still taking the bark three times a day and is recovering quickly.
The large brown Wolf is like that of the atlantic States, and are found only in the woody Country on the Pacific Ocean embraceing the mountains which pass the Columbia between the Great Falls an Rapids of the same. The large and Small Wolves of the inhabitents principally of the open Country and the wood land on their borders, and resemble in their habits those of the plains of Missouri presisely they are not abundant in the Plains of Columbia because there is but little game on which for them to subsist-
The large brown wolf is similar to those found in the Atlantic States and is only found in the forested areas along the Pacific Ocean, encompassing the mountains that stretch beyond the Columbia River, between the Great Falls and its rapids. The larger and smaller wolves mainly inhabit the open country and the woodlands on the edges, and their habits closely resemble those of the plains wolves in Missouri. However, they are not plentiful in the Columbia Plains because there is very little game for them to feed on.
[Lewis, February 22, 1806]
Saturday February 22cd 1806. We were visited today by two Clatsop women and two boys who brought a parsel of excellent hats made of Cedar bark and ornamented with beargrass. two of these hats had been made by measures which Capt Clark and myself had given one of the women some time since with a request to make each of us a hat; they fit us very well, and are in the form we desired them. we purchased all their hats and distributed them among the party. the woodwork and sculpture of these people as well as these hats and their waterproof baskets evince an ingenuity by no means common among the Aborigenes of America. in the evening they returned to their village and Drewyer accompanied them in their canoe in order to get the dogs which the Clatsops have agreed to give us in payment for the Elk they stole from us some weeks since. these women informed us that the small fish began to run which we suppose to be herring from their discription. they also informed us that their Chief, Coma or Comowooll, had gone up the Columbia to the valley in order to purchase wappetoe, a part of which he in tended trading with us on his return. one of our canoes brake the cord by which it was attatched and was going off with the tide this evening; we sent Sergt. Pryor and a party after her who recovered and brought her back. our sick consisting of Gibson, Bratton, Sergt. Ordway, Willard and McNeal are all on the recovery. we have not had as may sick at any one time since we left Wood River. the general complaint seams to be bad colds and fevers, something I beleive of the influenza.
Saturday, February 22, 1806. Today, we had a visit from two Clatsop women and two boys who brought a bunch of excellent hats made from cedar bark and decorated with beargrass. Two of these hats were made based on the measurements Captain Clark and I had given to one of the women a while ago, with a request for her to make us each a hat. They fit us very well and are in the style we wanted. We bought all their hats and shared them among the group. The woodwork and sculpture of these people, along with their hats and waterproof baskets, show a creativity that isn’t very common among the indigenous people of America. In the evening, they went back to their village, and Drewyer went with them in their canoe to get the dogs that the Clatsops agreed to give us as payment for the elk they took from us a few weeks ago. The women told us that the small fish, which we think are herring based on their description, have started to run. They also informed us that their chief, Coma or Comowooll, went up the Columbia to the valley to buy wappetoe, part of which he plans to trade with us when he returns. One of our canoes broke the cord that was tying it down and started floating away with the tide this evening; we sent Sergeant Pryor and a group after it, and they managed to recover and bring it back. Our sick, including Gibson, Bratton, Sergeant Ordway, Willard, and McNeal, are all recovering. We haven’t had as many people sick at once since we left Wood River. The common issues seem to be bad colds and fevers, something I believe is related to the flu.
The Antelope is found in the great plains of Columbia and are the same of those on the Missouri found in every part of that untimbered country. they are by no means as plenty on this side of the Rocky Mountains as on the other. the natives here make robes of their skins dressed with the hair on them. when the salmon begin to decline in the latter end of the sunme and Autumn the natves leave the river, at least a majority and remove to the plains at some distance for the purpose of hunting the Antelope. they pursue them on horse back and shoot them with their arrows. The sheep is found in various parts of the Rocky mountains, but most commonly in those parts which are timbered and steep. they are also found in greater abundance on the Chain of mountains with form the commencement of the woody country on this coast and which pass the Columbia between the great falls and rapids we have never met with this anamal ourselves but have seen many of their skins in possession of the natives dressed with the wooll on them and aso seen the blankets which they manufacture of the wooll of this sheep. from the skin the animal appears to be about the size of the common sheep; of a white colour. the wooll is fine on most parts of the body but not so long as that of our domestic sheep. the wooll is also curled and thick. on the back and more particularly on the top of the neck the wooll is intermixed with a considerable proportion of long streight hairs. there is no wooll on a small part of the body behind the sholders on each side of the brisquit which is covered with a short fine hairs as in the domestic sheep. form the signs which the Indians make in discribing this animal they have herect pointed horns, tho one of our Engages La Page, assures us that he saw them in the black hills where the little Missouri passes them, and that they were in every rispect like the domestic sheep, and like them the males had lunated horns bent backwards and twisted. I should be much pleased at meeting with this animal, but have had too many proofs to admit a doubt of it's existing and in considerable numbers in the mountains near this coast. the Beaver and common Otter have before been mentioned in treating of the occupations of the natives in hunting fishing &c. these do not differ from those of other parts of the Continent.
The antelope can be found in the vast plains of Columbia, and they are similar to those in Missouri, which are present throughout that treeless region. They are not as plentiful on this side of the Rocky Mountains as they are on the other side. The locals make robes from their skins, leaving the hair on them. When the salmon population begins to decline later in the summer and autumn, most of the natives leave the river and move to the plains to hunt antelope. They chase them on horseback and shoot them with arrows. Sheep can be found in various parts of the Rocky Mountains, but they are most commonly seen in wooded, steep areas. They are also more abundant in the mountain range that marks the beginning of the wooded region on this coast, traversing Columbia between the great falls and rapids. We have never encountered this animal ourselves, but we have seen many of their skins, which the natives have processed while keeping the wool intact. We have also seen blankets they make from this sheep's wool. From the skin, the animal seems to be about the size of a regular sheep and is white in color. The wool is fine on most parts of the body, though not as long as that of domestic sheep. The wool is also curly and thick. On the back, particularly on the top of the neck, the wool is mixed with a significant amount of long straight hairs. There is a small area on the body behind the shoulders on either side of the brisket that is covered with short fine hairs, similar to domestic sheep. From the descriptions the Indians provide of this animal, they have pointed horns. However, one of our men, La Page, assures us that he saw them in the Black Hills where the Little Missouri flows, and that they were identical in every way to domestic sheep; the males had crescent-shaped horns that bent backward and twisted. I would be very pleased to encounter this animal, but I have too much evidence to doubt its existence in considerable numbers in the mountains near this coast. The beaver and common otter have already been mentioned in relation to the natives' occupations in hunting, fishing, etc. Their behavior does not differ from that of other parts of the continent.
[Clark, February 22, 1806]
Saturday February 22nd 1806 We were visited to day by two Clatsops women and two boys who brought a parcel of excellent hats made of Cedar bark, and ornemented with bear grass. two of those hats had been made by measure which Capt Lewis and my Self had given a woman Some time Since, with a request to make each of us a hat; they fit us very well, and are in the form we desired them. we purchased the hats and distribeted them among the party. the woodwork and sculpture of these people as well as those hats and the water proof baskits evince an ingenuity by no means common among the Aborigenes of America. in the evining they returned to their village and Drewyer accompanied them in order to get Some dogs &c. These women informed us that the Small fish began to run which we suppose to be herring from their discription. they also informed us that their Chief Conia Comawool, had gorn up the Columbia to the Vally in order to purchase Wappatoe, a part of which he entended tradeing with us on his return. our sick consisting of Gibson, Bratten, Willard McNeal and Baptiest LaPage is Something better Serjt. Ordway is complaining of a Coald & head ake. we have not had as many Sick at one time Since we left the Settlements of the Illinois. the general Complaint appears to be bad colds and fevers, with a violent pain in the head, and back, something I believe of the influenza.
Saturday, February 22, 1806 We had a visit today from two Clatsop women and two boys who brought a package of excellent hats made from Cedar bark, decorated with bear grass. Two of these hats were made to the measurements that Captain Lewis and I had provided to a woman some time ago, with a request for her to make a hat for each of us; they fit us very well and are in the style we wanted. We purchased the hats and distributed them among the group. The woodworking and craftsmanship of these people, as well as the hats and the waterproof baskets, show an ingenuity that is quite rare among the Indigenous peoples of America. In the evening, they returned to their village, and Drewyer went with them to get some dogs, etc. These women told us that the small fish have started to run, which we think are herring based on their description. They also told us that their chief, Conia Comawool, had gone up the Columbia to the valley to buy Wappatoe, some of which he intended to trade with us upon his return. Our sick, which includes Gibson, Bratten, Willard McNeal, and Baptiste LaPage, are feeling a bit better. Sergeant Ordway is complaining of a cold and a headache. We haven't had as many sick at one time since we left the settlements of Illinois. The common complaints seem to be bad colds and fevers, along with severe pain in the head and back, which I believe might be influenza.
The Antelope is found in the great plains of Columbia and are the Same with those of the Missouri found in every part of that untimbered Country. they are by no means as plenty on this Side of the Rocky Mountains as on the other. the nativs here make robes of their Skins dressed withe the hair on them. when the Salmon begin to decline in the latter end of Summer and autumn, the nativs leave the river, at least a majority and move out into the plains at Some distance for the purpose of hunting the Antelope. they pursue them on hors back and Shute them with their arrows.
The antelope is found in the vast plains of Columbia and is the same as those in Missouri, which can be seen throughout that treeless region. They are not nearly as abundant on this side of the Rocky Mountains as they are on the other. The natives here make robes from their skins, keeping the hair on them. When the salmon start to decline at the end of summer and into autumn, most of the natives leave the river and move out into the plains for hunting antelope. They chase them on horseback and shoot them with their arrows.
The Sheep is found in various parts of the Rocky Mountains, but most Commonly on those parts which are timbered and Steep. they are also found in greater abundance on the chain of mountains which forms the Commencement of the woody country on this Coast and which pass the Columbia between the great falls and rapids. we have never met with this animal ourselves but have Seen maney of their Skins in the possession of the nativs dressed with the wool on them and also Seen and have the blankets which they manufacture of the wool of this Sheep. from the Skin the animal appears to be about the Size of the common Sheep; of a white colour. the wool is fine on most parts of the body, but not so long as that of the domestic Sheep; the wool is also Curled and thick. on the back and more particularly on the top of the neck the wool is intermixed with a Considerable proportion of long Streight hair. there is no wool on a Small part of the body behind the Sholders on each Side of the brisquit which is covered with a Short fine hairs as in the domestic Sheep. from the Signs which the Indians make in discribing this animale they have herect pointed horns, tho one of our Engages Lapage, assures us that he Saw them in the Black hills where the Little Missouri river passes them, and that they were in every respect like our domestic Sheep, and like them the mail had lunated horns bent backwards and twisted. I should be much pleased at meeting with this animal. but have had too maney proofs to admit a doubt of it's existing and in considerable numbers in the mountains on this Coast. The Beaver and Common Otter have before been mentioned in treating of the Occupation of the nativs in hunting, fishing, &c. these do not differ from those of other parts of the Continent-.-.
The sheep can be found in different areas of the Rocky Mountains, but they're most commonly seen in the timbered and steep regions. They're also more abundant in the mountain range that marks the beginning of the wooded areas on this coast and that runs through the Columbia River between the great falls and rapids. We haven't encountered this animal ourselves, but we've seen many of their skins in the possession of the natives, dressed with the wool still on them. We've also seen and have some of the blankets they make from this sheep’s wool. From the skins, the animal seems to be about the size of a typical sheep and is white in color. The wool is fine on most parts of the body, but not as long as that of domestic sheep; it’s also curly and thick. On the back and especially on the top of the neck, the wool is mixed with a significant amount of straight long hair. There's a small area on each side behind the shoulders that’s covered with short fine hair, like in domestic sheep. According to the signs the Indians make when describing this animal, they have pointed horns. However, one of our men, Lapage, assures us that he saw them in the Black Hills where the Little Missouri River runs through, and that they were just like our domestic sheep, with males having curved horns that bend backwards and twist. I would be very pleased to encounter this animal, but I've had too many confirmations to doubt its existence in considerable numbers in the mountains on this coast. The beaver and common otter have been mentioned before regarding the natives' activities in hunting, fishing, etc. They don't differ from those in other parts of the continent.
[Lewis, February 23, 1806]
Sunday February 23rd 1806. not anything transpired during this day worthy of particular notice. our sick are all on the recovery, except Sergt. Ordway who is but little wose and not very ill tho more so than any of the others. the men have provided themselves very amply with mockersons and leather cloathing, much more so indeed than they ever have since they have been on this voige.
Sunday, February 23rd, 1806. Nothing noteworthy happened today. Our sick are mostly on the mend, except for Sergeant Ordway, who is a bit worse off and not very ill, though more so than the others. The men have stocked up well on moccasins and leather clothing, certainly more than they ever have since starting this voyage.
The Sea Otter is found on the sea coast and in the salt water. this anamal when fully grown is as large as a common mastive dog. the ears and eyes are remarkaby small, particularly the former which is not an inch in length thick fleshey and pointed covered with short hair. the tail is about 10 inches in length thick where it joins the body and tapering to a very sharp point; in common with the body it is covered with a deep fir particularly on the upper side, on the under part the fur is not so long. the legs are remarkably short and the feet, which have five toes each are broad large and webbed. the legs are covered with fur and the feet with short hair. the body of this animal is long and nearly of the same thickness throughout. from the extremity of the tail to that of the nose they will measure 5 feet or upwards. the colour is a uniform dark brown and when in good order and season perfectly black and glossey. it is the riches and I think the most delicious fur in the world at least I cannot form an idea of any more so. it is deep thick silkey in the extreem and strong. the inner part of the fur when opened is lighter than the surface in it's natural position. there are some fine black and shining hairs intermixed with the fur which are reather longer and add much to it's beauty. the nose, about the eyes ears and forehead in some of these otter is of a lighter colour, sometimes a light brown. those parts in the young sucking Otter of this species is sometimes of a cream coloured white, but always much lighter than the other parts. the fur of the infant Otter is much inferior in point of colour and texture to that of the full grown otter, or even after it has been weaned. there is so great a difference that I have for some time supposed it a different animal; the Indians called the infant Otter Spuck, and the full grow or such as had obtained a coat of good fur, E-luck'-ke. this still further confirmed the opinion of their being distinct species; but I have since learned that the Spuck is the young Otter. the colour of the neck, body, legs and tail is a dark lead brown. The mink is found in the woody country on this coast, and dose not differ in any particu from those of the Atlantic coast. the seal are found here in great numbers, and as far up the Columbia river as the great falls above which there are none. I have reason to beleive from the information of the men that there are several species of the seal on this coast and in the river but what the difference is I am unable to state not having seen them myself sufficiently near for minute inspection nor obtained the different kinds to make a comparison. the skins of such as I have seen are covered with a short coarse stiff and glossey hair of a redish hey brown colour. tho the anamal while in the water or as we saw them frequently in the river appear to be black and spoted with white sometimes. when we first saw those animals at the great falls and untill our arrival at this place we conseived they were the Sea Otter. but the indians here have undeceived us.—I am not much acquainted with the Seal but suppose that they are the same common also to the Atlantic Ocean in the same parallel of latitude. the skins I have seen are precisely such as our trunks are frequently covered with.
The sea otter is found along the coastline and in saltwater. This animal, when fully grown, is about the size of a large Mastiff dog. Its ears and eyes are surprisingly small, especially the ears, which are less than an inch long, thick, fleshy, and pointed, covered with short fur. The tail is around 10 inches long, thick where it meets the body and tapering to a sharp point. Like the body, it is covered with thick fur, particularly on the top, while the underside has shorter fur. The legs are notably short, and the feet, which have five toes each, are broad, large, and webbed. The legs are furry, and the feet have short hair. This animal has a long body that is almost the same thickness throughout. From the tip of the tail to the nose, they can measure over 5 feet. The color is a uniform dark brown, and when in good condition and season, it is perfectly black and glossy. It has the richest and, I think, the most delicious fur in the world; I can't imagine any better. The fur is thick and silky at the ends and very strong. The inner part of the fur, when opened, is lighter than the outer surface in its natural position. There are some fine black and shiny hairs mixed in with the fur that are a bit longer, adding to its beauty. The nose, around the eyes, ears, and forehead of some otters, is a lighter color, sometimes a light brown. In young suckling otters of this species, those areas can sometimes be a cream-colored white but are always much lighter than the other parts. The fur of the baby otter is much inferior in color and texture compared to that of the fully grown otter, or even after it has been weaned. The difference is so significant that I initially thought it was a different animal; the Native Americans refer to the baby otter as Spuck and the adult or those with good fur coats as E-luck'-ke. This further confirmed my belief that they were distinct species; however, I've since learned that Spuck is the young otter. The color of the neck, body, legs, and tail is a dark lead brown. The mink is found in the wooded areas along this coast and doesn't differ in any way from those on the Atlantic coast. Seals are found here in great numbers, extending up the Columbia River as far as the great falls, beyond which none exist. I have reason to believe, based on information from local men, that there are several species of seals on this coast and in the river, but I'm unable to specify the differences, as I haven't seen them closely enough for a detailed inspection or obtained different kinds for comparison. The skins of the seals I’ve observed are covered with a short, coarse, stiff, glossy hair of a reddish-brown color. Although the animals, while in the water or as we've observed them frequently in the river, appear black and sometimes spotted with white. When we first saw these animals at the great falls, up until our arrival here, we thought they were sea otters. However, the local Native Americans have corrected us. I'm not very familiar with seals but assume they are the same species that are common to the Atlantic Ocean in the same latitude. The skins I've seen are just like those that frequently cover our trunks.
[Clark, February 23, 1806]
Sunday February 23rd 1806. Not any thing transpired desering particular notice. our Sick are all on the recovery. the men have provided themselves verry amply with mockersons & leather clothing, much more So indeed than they have ever been Since they have been on the voyage.
Sunday, February 23, 1806. Nothing happened that deserves special mention. Our sick are all recovering. The men have equipped themselves very well with moccasons and leather clothing, much more so than they ever have since they started the voyage.
The Sea Otter is found only on the Sea Coast and in the Salt water. Those animals which I took to be the Sea Otter from the Great Falls of the Columbia to the mouth, proves to be the Phosia or Seal which at a little distance has every appearance of the Sea Otters. The Sea otter when fully grown is as large as the common mastif dog, the eail and Eyes are remarkably Small, particularly the former which is not an inch in length thick fleshey and pointed, Covered with short hair. the tail is about 10 inches in length thick where it joins the body and tapering to a very Sharp point; in common with the body it is covered with a deep fur particularly on the upper Side, on the under part the fur is not So long. the legs are remarkably Short and the feat which have five toes each are broad large and webbed. the legs are covered with fur and the feet with Short hair. the body of this Animal is long and nearly of the Same thickness throughout. from the extremity of the tail to that of the nose they will measure 5 feet or upwards. the colour is of a uniform dark brown, and when in good order and Season perfectly Black and Glossey. it is the richest and I think the most delightfull fur in the world at least I cannot form an idea of any more so. it is deep thick silky in the extream and Strong. the inner part of the fur when open is lighter than the surface in its natural position. there are Some fine black Shineing hairs intermixed with the fur which are reather longer and add much to its beauty. the nose, about the eyes, ears and forehead in Some of those otter is of a light Colour, Sometimes a light brown. those parts in the young Suckling otters of this Species is Sometimes of a creem colour'd white, but always much lighter than the other parts. the fur of the infant otter is much inferior in point of colour, and texture, to that of the full grown otter, or even after it has been weened-. there is so great a difference that I have for Some time Supposed it a different animal; the Indians Call the infant otter Spuck, and the full grown or such as had obtained a Coat of good fur, E luck'ko. this Still further confirmed the opinion of their being distinct Species; but I have Since lerned that the Spuck is the young otter. the Colour of the neck, body, legs and tail is a dark lead brown. The Mink is found in the woody Country on this Coast and does not differ in any particular from those of the Atlantic Coasts.
The Sea Otter is only found along the coast and in saltwater. The animals I thought were Sea Otters from the Great Falls of the Columbia to the mouth turned out to be Phocids or seals, which, from a distance, look just like Sea Otters. A fully grown Sea Otter is as big as an average mastiff dog, with remarkably small ears and eyes—especially the ears, which are less than an inch long, thick, fleshy, and pointed, covered with short hair. The tail is about 10 inches long, thick where it connects to the body, and tapers to a sharp point. Like the body, it is covered with dense fur, especially on the upper side; the under part has shorter fur. The legs are notably short, and the feet, which have five toes each, are broad, large, and webbed. The legs are covered with fur, while the feet have short hair. The body of this animal is long and nearly the same thickness throughout. From the tip of the tail to the nose, they measure 5 feet or more. The color is a uniform dark brown, and when well-groomed, it appears perfectly black and glossy. It has the richest and most delightful fur in the world—at least, I can't imagine any fur being better. It is thick, silky at the ends, and strong. The inner part of the fur, when opened, is lighter than the surface in its natural position. There are some fine, shiny black hairs mixed in with the fur that are slightly longer and enhance its beauty. The nose, around the eyes, ears, and forehead of some Sea Otters is a lighter color, sometimes a light brown. In young, suckling otters of this species, these areas can sometimes be a cream-colored white, but they're always much lighter than the other parts. The fur of the baby otter is much less vibrant in color and texture than that of the fully grown otter or even after it has been weaned. The difference is so striking that I initially thought it was a different animal; the Indians call the baby otter “Spuck” and the fully grown ones, which have good fur, “E luck'ko.” This further reinforced the idea that they were distinct species; but I have since learned that Spuck is the young otter. The color of the neck, body, legs, and tail is a dark lead brown. The Mink can be found in the wooded areas along this coast and does not differ in any significant way from those on the Atlantic Coasts.
The Seal or Phoca are found here in great numbers, and as far up the Columbia as the great Falls, above which there are none. I have reasons to believe from the information of the men that there are Several Species of the Phoca on this Coast and in the river, but what the difference is I am unable to State not haveing Seen them myself Sufficiently near for manute inspection nor obtain the different kinds to make a comparison. the Skins of Such as I have Seen are covered with a Short thick Coarse Glossy hair of a redish bey brown Colour. tho the animal while in the water, or as we saw them frequently in the river appear to be black and Spoted with white sometimes. I am not much acquainted with the Seal, but Suppose that they are the Same common also to the atlantic Ocian in the Same parrelal of Latitude. the Skins, or those which I have Seen are presisely Such as trunks are frequently Covered with. the flesh of this animal is highly prised by the nativs who Swinge the hair off and then roste the flesh on Sticks before the fire.
The seals, or Phoca, are found here in large numbers, all the way up the Columbia River to the Great Falls, beyond which there are none. I believe, based on what the locals have told me, that there are several species of Phoca along this coast and in the river, but I can't specify what the differences are since I haven't seen them up close for careful inspection, nor have I had the chance to compare the different types. The skins of those I've seen have short, thick, coarse, glossy hair that's a reddish-bay brown color. However, when the animals are in the water, or as we often saw them in the river, they appear black and sometimes spotted with white. I’m not very familiar with seals, but I suspect they’re similar to those commonly found in the Atlantic Ocean at the same latitude. The skins I’ve seen are exactly like the ones that trunks are often covered with. The flesh of this animal is highly valued by the natives, who burn off the hair and then roast the meat on sticks in front of the fire.
[Lewis, February 24, 1806]
Monday February 24th 1806. Our sick are still on the recovery. Shannon & Labuishe returned in the forenoon; they had killed no Elk and reported that they beleived the Elk have retired from their former haunts and gone further back in the country to a considerable distance from this place. this is very unwelcome information for poor and inferior as the flesh of this animal is it is our principal dependance for subsistence.
Monday, February 24th, 1806. Our sick are still recovering. Shannon and Labuishe returned in the morning; they didn’t kill any elk and reported that they believe the elk have moved away from their usual spots and gone much further into the interior. This is very unwelcome news because, although the meat of this animal is poor quality, it is our main source of food.
This evening we were visited by Comowooll the Clatsop Chief and 12 men women & children of his nation. Drewyer came a passenger in their canoe, and brought with him two dogs. The chief and his party had brought for sail a Sea Otter skin some hats, stergeon and a species of small fish which now begin to run, and are taken in great quantities in the Columbia R. about 40 miles above us by means of skiming or scooping nets. on this page I have drawn the likeness of them as large as life; it as perfect as I can make it with my pen and will serve to give a general idea of the fish. the rays of the fins are boney but not sharp tho somewhat pointed. the small fin on the back next to the tail has no rays of bone being a thin membranous pellicle. the fins next to the gills have eleven rays each. those of the abdomen have eight each, those of the pinna-ani are 20 and 2 half formed in front. that of the back has eleven rays. all the fins are of a white colour. the back is of a bluish duskey colour and that of the lower part of the sides and belley is of a silvery white. no spots on any part. the first bone of the gills next behid the eye is of a bluis cast, and the second of a light goald colour nearly white. the puple of the eye is black and the iris of a silver white. the underjaw exceeds the uper; and the mouth opens to great extent, folding like that of the herring. it has no teeth. the abdomen is obtuse and smooth; in this differing from the herring, shad anchovey &c of the Malacopterygious Order & Class Clupea, to which however I think it more nearly allyed than to any other altho it has not their accute and serrate abdomen and the under jaw exceeding the upper. the scales of this little fish are so small and thin that without minute inspection you would suppose they had none. they are filled with roes of a pure white colour and have scarcely any perceptable alimentary duct. I find them best when cooked in Indian stile, which is by roasting a number of them together on a wooden spit without any previous preperation whatever. they are so fat they require no additional sauce, and I think them superior to any fish I ever tasted, even more delicate and lussious than the white fish of the lakes which have heretofore formed my standart of excellence among the fishes. I have heard the fresh anchovey much extolled but I hope I shall be pardoned for beleiving this quite as good. the bones are so soft and fine that they form no obstruction in eating this fish. we purchased all the articles which these people brought us; we suffered these people to remain all night as it rained, the wind blew most violently and they had their women and children with them; the latter being a sure pledge of their pacific dispositions. the Sturgeon which they brought us was also good of it's kind. we determine to send a party up the river to procure some of those fish, and another in some direction to hunt Elk as soon as the weather will permit.
This evening, we were visited by Comowooll, the Clatsop Chief, along with 12 men, women, and children from his tribe. Drewyer joined them in their canoe and brought along two dogs. The chief and his group had brought for sale a sea otter skin, some hats, sturgeon, and a type of small fish that has started to run, which are being caught in large quantities in the Columbia River about 40 miles upstream using skimming or scooping nets. On this page, I have sketched a likeness of the fish as large as life; it is as accurate as I can make it with my pen and will provide a general idea of the fish. The rays of the fins are bony but not sharp, although somewhat pointed. The small fin on the back near the tail doesn't have bony rays; it's a thin, membranous layer. The fins near the gills each have eleven rays. The abdominal fins each have eight rays; those of the pinna-ani have 20 with 2 half-formed in front. The back fin has eleven rays. All the fins are white. The back is a bluish-gray color, while the lower part of the sides and belly is a silvery white. There are no spots on any part. The first bone of the gills behind the eye has a bluish tint, and the second is a light gold color, nearly white. The pupil of the eye is black, while the iris is silvery white. The lower jaw is longer than the upper, and the mouth opens wide, folding like that of a herring. It has no teeth. The abdomen is blunt and smooth, differing from the herring, shad, anchovy, etc., of the Malacopterygious Order and Class Clupea, to which I believe it is more closely related than to any other, although it doesn't have the sharp and serrated abdomen and the lower jaw exceeding the upper. The scales of this small fish are so tiny and thin that without close inspection, you might think it has none. They are filled with roe of a pure white color and have almost no noticeable digestive tract. I find them best when cooked the Indian way, which is by roasting a number of them together on a wooden spit with no prior preparation. They're so fatty that they don't need any additional sauce, and I think they are better than any fish I have ever tasted, even more delicate and delicious than the white fish from the lakes, which have been my standard of excellence among fish. I've heard the fresh anchovy highly praised, but I hope I am forgiven for believing this fish is just as good. The bones are so soft and fine that they don't hinder eating this fish. We purchased all the items these people brought us. We allowed them to stay the night since it was raining, the wind was blowing fiercely, and they had women and children with them, the presence of whom assured us of their peaceful intentions. The sturgeon they brought us was also good for its kind. We plan to send a party up the river to catch some of those fish and another group to hunt elk as soon as the weather allows.
[Clark, February 24, 1806]
Monday February 24th 1806 Our Sick are Still on the recovery. Shannon and Labiche returned in the forenoon, they had killed no Elk, and reported that they believe the Elk have returned from their former haunts and gorn further back in the mountains to a considerable distance from this place. this is very unwelcom information, for poore and inferior as the flesh of this animale is, it is our principal dependance for Subsistance.
Monday, February 24th, 1806 Our sick are still recovering. Shannon and Labiche returned in the morning; they didn’t kill any elk and reported that they think the elk have moved away from their previous locations and have gone deep into the mountains, quite a distance from here. This is very unwelcome news because, poor and inferior as the meat of this animal is, it is our main source of food.
The Rackoon is found in the woody Country on the Coast in considerable quantities. the nativs take a fiew of them in Snars, and deadfalls; tho appear not to value their Skins much, and but Seldom prepare them for robes. The large Grey Squirel appear to be a native of a narrow tract of Country on the upper Side of the mountains below the Great falls of Columbia which is pritty well covered in maney parts with a Species of white oak. this animal is much larger than the Gray Squirel of our Country, it resembles it much in form and colour. it is as large as the Fox Squirel of the South Atlantic States. the tail is reather larger than the whole of the body and head, the hair of which is long and tho inserted on all Sides reispect the horozontal one. the eyes are black, whiskers black and long. the back, Sides, head, tale and outer parts of the legs are of a blue lead colour grey. the breast, belly, and inner parts of the legs are of a pure white. the hair is Short as that of the Fox Squirel but is much finer and intermixed with a propotion of fur. the nativs make great use of those Skins in forming their robes. this Squirel Subsists principally on the acorn and filburts, which last also grow abundantly in the Oak Country-. The Small brown Squirel is a butifull little animal about the size of the red Squirel of the E. States or Something larger than the ground Squirel of the U States. the tail is as long as the body and neck formed Somewhat Hat. the eyes black, whiskers long and black but not abundant. the back, Sides, head, neck and outer parts of the legs are of a redish dark brown. the throat, breast, belly and inner parts of the legs are of a pale brick red. the tail is a mixture of black and fox coloured red in which the black prodomonates in the middle, and the other on the edges and extremity. the hair of the body is about 1/2 inch long and So fine and soft that it has the appearance of fur. the hair of the tail is coarser and double as long. this animal Subsists principally on the Seeds of various Species of pine and are always found in the piney Country. they are common to the tract of woody country on this coast. they lodge in Clefts of rocks, holes in the Ground, old Stumps of trees and the hollow trunks of falling timber; in this respect resemble the rat always haveing their habitation in or near the earth. The Small Grey Squirel Common to every part of the Rocky Mountains which is timbered, differ from the dark brown squirel just discribed only in its colour.
The raccoon is found in large numbers in the wooded areas along the coast. The natives catch a few of them in snares and traps, but they don’t seem to value their skins much and rarely prepare them for robes. The large gray squirrel seems to be native to a narrow strip of land on the upper side of the mountains below the Great Falls of the Columbia, which is pretty well covered in many areas with a type of white oak. This animal is much larger than the gray squirrels we have, resembling them in shape and color. It’s about the same size as the fox squirrel of the South Atlantic states. Its tail is larger than its entire body and head, with long hair that grows in all directions, especially horizontally. Its eyes are black, and its whiskers are long and black. The back, sides, head, tail, and outer parts of the legs are a grayish-blue color. The breast, belly, and inner parts of the legs are pure white. Its hair is as short as that of the fox squirrel, but it is much finer and mixed with some fur. The natives make great use of these skins to make their robes. This squirrel primarily feeds on acorns and hazelnuts, which also grow abundantly in the oak country. The small brown squirrel is a beautiful little animal, about the size of the red squirrel from the eastern states, or slightly larger than the ground squirrel of the United States. Its tail is as long as its body and neck, shaped somewhat flat. Its eyes are black, with long, sparse black whiskers. The back, sides, head, neck, and outer parts of the legs are a dark reddish-brown. The throat, breast, belly, and inner parts of the legs are a pale brick red. The tail is a mix of black and fox-colored red, with the black predominating in the center and the red on the edges and tip. The hair on its body is about half an inch long, fine, and soft, giving it the appearance of fur. The hair on the tail is coarser and double the length. This animal primarily eats the seeds from various species of pine and is commonly found in piney areas. They are prevalent in the wooded areas along this coast, residing in crevices of rocks, holes in the ground, old tree stumps, and hollow trunks of fallen timber; in this respect, they resemble rats, always having their homes in or near the earth. The small gray squirrel, which is common throughout the timbered parts of the Rocky Mountains, differs from the dark brown squirrel just described only in its color.
it's back, neck, Sides, head, tail and outer Sides of the legs are of brown lead coloured Grey; the tail has a Slight touch of the fox colour near the extremity of some of the hairs. the throat, belly, breast, and inner part of the legs are of the Colour of tanners ooze and have a narrow Stripe of black commencing behing each Sholder and extending longitudinally for about 3 inches between the Colours of the Side & belly. their habits are also the Same with the dark brown Squirel of this neighbourhood, and like them are extreamly nimble and active. The Ground Squirel is found in various parts of the Countrey as well the Praries as wood lands, and is one of the fiew animals which we have Seen in every part of our voy-age. it differs not at all from those of the U, States.
Its back, neck, sides, head, tail, and outer sides of the legs are a brownish-grey color. The tail has a slight touch of reddish-brown near the tips of some hairs. The throat, belly, breast, and inner part of the legs are the color of tanner's ooze and have a narrow black stripe that starts behind each shoulder and extends longitudinally for about three inches between the colors of the sides and belly. Their habits are also the same as those of the dark brown squirrel in this area, and like them, they are extremely nimble and active. The ground squirrel is found in various parts of the country, both in prairies and woodlands, and is one of the few animals we've seen in every part of our journey. It is no different from those in the U.S.
The Barking Squirel and handsom Ground Squirel of the Plains on the East Side of the Rocky Mountains are not found in the plains of the Columbia.
The Barking Squirrel and the handsome Ground Squirrel of the Plains on the East Side of the Rocky Mountains are not found in the plains of the Columbia.
This evening we were visited by Comowooll the Clatsop Chief and 14 men women and Children of his nation. Drewyer came a pasinger in their Canoe, and brought with him two dogs. the Chief and his party had brought for Sale a Sea otter Skin, Some hats, Sturgeon and a Species of fish which now begins to run and are taken in Great quantities in the Columbia River about 40 miles above us by means of Skiming or scooping nets. See likeness on the other Side of this leaf or page. Capt Lewis gave an old Coat and Vest for a Sea otter Skin, we purchased Several hads of the Indian manufactry and distributed them among the party. we also purchased a fiew of the Small fish which we found deliciously fine.
This evening, we were visited by Comowooll, the Clatsop Chief, along with 14 men, women, and children from his tribe. Drewyer joined them as a passenger in their canoe and brought two dogs with him. The Chief and his group had come to sell a sea otter skin, some hats, sturgeon, and a type of fish that is now starting to run in large quantities in the Columbia River about 40 miles upstream, caught using skimming or scooping nets. You can see an illustration on the other side of this page. Captain Lewis traded an old coat and vest for a sea otter skin, and we bought several hats made by the Indians, distributing them among our group. We also purchased a few of the small fish, which we found to be delicious.
[Lewis, February 25, 1806]
Tuesday February 25th 1806. It continued to rain and blow so violently that there was no movement of the party today. the Indians left us in the morning on their return to their village. Willard somewhat worse the other Invalledes on the ricovery. I am mortifyed at not having it in my power to make more celestial observations since we have been at Fort Clatsop, but such has been the state of the weather that I have found it utterly impracticable.-
Tuesday, February 25th, 1806. It kept raining and blowing so hard that the group didn’t move today. The Indians left us in the morning to head back to their village. Willard is feeling somewhat worse; the other Invalides are recovering. I’m frustrated that I haven’t been able to make more celestial observations since we’ve been at Fort Clatsop, but the weather has made it completely impossible.
The Rackoon is found in the woody country on this coast in considerable quantities. the natives take a few of them in snars and deadfalls; tho appear not to vallue their skins much, and but seldom prepare them for robes. The large grey squirrel appears to be a native of a narrow tract of country on the upper side of the mountains just below the grand falls of Columbia which is pretty well covered in many parts with a species of white oak. in short I beleive this squirrel to be coextensive with timber only, as we have not seen them in any part of the country where pine forms the majority of the timber, or in which the oak dose not appear. this animal is much larger than the grey squirrel of our country it resembles it much in form and colours. it is as large as the fox squirrel of the Southern Atlantic states. the tail is reather longer than the whole length of the body and head. the hair of which is long and tho inserted on all sides reispect the horizontal ones only. the eyes are black. whiskers black and long. the back, sides, head, tail and outer part of the legs are of a blue lead coloured grey. the breast belley and inner part of the legs are of a pure white. the hair is short as that of the fox-squirrel but is much finer and intermixed with a proportion of fur. the natives make great use of these skins in forming their robes. this squirrel subsists principally on the acorn and filbird which last also grows abundantly in the oak country.—The small brown squirrel is a beautifull little animal about the size and form of the red squirrel of the Eastern Atlantic states and western lakes. the tail is as long as the body and neck, formed like that of the red squirrel or somewhat flat. the eyes black. whiskers long and black but not abundant. the back, sides, head, neck and outer part of the legs are of a redish dark brown. the throat, breast, belley and inner part of the legs are of a pale brick red. the tail is a mixture of black and fox coloured red in which the black predominates in the midle and the other on the edges and extremity. the hair of the body is about 1/2 an inch long and so fine and soft that it has the appearance of fur. the hair of the tail is coarser and doubly as long. this animal subsists principally on the seeds of various species of pine, and are always found in the piny country they are common to the tract of wooddy country on this coast. they lodge in clifts of rocks, holes in the ground old stumps of trees and the hollow trunks of fallen timber; in this rispect resembling the rat, always having their habitatin in or near the earth. the small grey squirrel common to every part of the rocky mountain which is timbered, difirs from the dark brown squirrel just discribed only in it's colour. it's back, sides, neck, head tail and outer side of the legs are of a brown lead coloured grey; the tail has a slight touch of the fox colour near the extremity of some of the hairs. the throat, breast, belley, and inner parts of the legs are of the colour of tanner's ooze and have a narrow stripe of black, commencing just behide each sholder and extending longitudinaly for about 3 inches betwen the colours of the sides and belley. their habids are also the same of the dark brown squirrel of this neighbourhood and like them are extreemly nimble and active. the ground squirrel is found in every part of the country, as well the praries as woodlands, and is one of the few animals which we have seen in every part of our voyage. it differs not at all from those of the U States. the barking squirrel and handsome ground squirrel of the plains on the East side of the rocky mountains are not found in the plains of Columbia.
The raccoon is found in significant numbers in the wooded areas along this coast. The locals catch a few of them in snares and deadfalls, but they seem to not value their skins much and rarely prepare them for robes. The large gray squirrel seems to be a native of a narrow area on the northern side of the mountains just below the grand falls of the Columbia, which is well-covered in many parts with a type of white oak. In short, I believe this squirrel only lives where there is timber, as we have not seen them in any area where pine is the dominant tree or where oak does not appear. This animal is much larger than the gray squirrel found in our country, closely resembling it in form and color. It is as big as the fox squirrel from the Southern Atlantic states. The tail is somewhat longer than the length of the body and head. The hair is long and, although it grows on all sides, it mainly lies horizontally. The eyes are black, and the whiskers are long and black. The back, sides, head, tail, and outer part of the legs are a bluish-gray color. The chest, belly, and inner part of the legs are pure white. The hair is short like that of the fox squirrel but much finer and mixed with some fur. The natives make good use of these skins to make their robes. This squirrel mainly feeds on acorns and filberts, which also grow abundantly in the oak areas. The small brown squirrel is a beautiful little animal about the size and shape of the red squirrel from the Eastern Atlantic states and the western lakes. The tail is as long as the body and neck, shaped like that of the red squirrel or slightly flat. The eyes are black, and the whiskers are long and black, but not very abundant. The back, sides, head, neck, and outer part of the legs are a reddish-dark brown. The throat, chest, belly, and inner part of the legs are a pale brick red. The tail is a mix of black and fox-colored red, with black dominating in the middle and red on the edges and tip. The hair on the body is about half an inch long and so fine and soft that it looks like fur. The hair on the tail is coarser and twice as long. This animal mainly feeds on the seeds of various pine species and is always found in the pine areas. They are common in the wooded regions along this coast. They nest in rock crevices, holes in the ground, old tree stumps, and the hollow trunks of fallen trees; in this aspect, they resemble rats, always making their homes in or near the ground. The small gray squirrel, common throughout every timbered part of the Rocky Mountains, differs from the dark brown squirrel just described only in color. Its back, sides, neck, head, tail, and outer side of the legs are a brownish-gray; the tail has a slight hint of fox color near the ends of some of the hairs. The throat, chest, belly, and inner parts of the legs are the color of tanner's ooze, with a narrow black stripe starting just behind each shoulder and extending longitudinally for about three inches between the colors of the sides and belly. Their habits are also the same as those of the dark brown squirrel in this area, and like them, they are extremely nimble and active. The ground squirrel is found in every part of the country, both in prairies and woodlands, and is one of the few animals we've seen throughout our journey. It is no different from those found in the United States. The barking squirrel and the handsome ground squirrel of the plains on the east side of the Rocky Mountains are not found in the plains of Columbia.
[Clark, February 25, 1806]
Tuesday February 25th 1806 It continued to rain and blow So violently that there was no movement of the party to day. the Indians left us in the morning on their return to their village. Willard Somewhat worse the others are on the recovery. we are mortified at not haveing it in our power to make more Celestial observations since we have been at Fort Clatsop, but Such has been the State of the weather that we have found it utterly impractiable-. I purchased of the Clatsops this morning about half a bushel of Small fish which they had cought about 40 miles up the Columbia in their scooping nets. as this is an uncommon fish to me and one which no one of the party has ever Seen. on the next page I have drawn the likeness of them as large as life; it's as perfect as I can make it with my pen and will Serve to give a general idea of the fish. the rays of the fins are boney but not Sharp tho Somewhat pointed. the Small fin on the back next to the tail has no rays of bone being a thin membranous pellicle. the fins next to the gills have eleven rays each. those of the abdomen have Eight each, those of the pinna ani are 20 and 2 half formed in front. that of the back has eleven rays. all the fins are of a white colour. the back is of a blueish duskey colour and that of the lower part of the Sides and belly is of a Silvery White. no Spots on any part. the first of the gills next behind the eye is of a blueish cast, and the second of a light gold colour nearly white. the puple of the eye is black and the iris of a silver white. the under jaw exceeds the upper; and the mouth opens to great extent, folding like that of the Herring. it has no teeth. the abdomen is obtuse and Smooth; in this differing from the herring, Shad, anchovey &c. of the Malacapterygious Order and Class Clupea, to which however I think it more nearly allyed than to any other altho it has not their accute and Serrate abdomen and the under jaw exceeding the upper. the scales of this little fish are So small and thin that without manute inspection you would Suppose they had none. they are filled with roes of a pure white Colour and have Scercely any perceptable alimentary duct. I found them best when cooked in Indian Stile, which is by rosting a number of them together on a wooden spit without any previous preperation whatever. they are so fat that they require no aditional sauce, and I think them Superior to any fish I ever tasted, even more dilicate and lussious than the white fish of the Lakes which have heretofore formed my Standard of excellence among the fishes. I have herd the fresh anchovey much extoll'd but I hope I shall be pardened for believeing this quit as good. the bones are So Soft and fine that they form no obstruction in eating this fish.
Tuesday, February 25th, 1806 It continued to rain and blow so violently that there was no movement from the party today. The Indians left us in the morning on their way back to their village. Willard is somewhat worse, but the others are recovering. We are disappointed that we haven't been able to make more celestial observations since arriving at Fort Clatsop, but the weather has made it completely impractical. I bought about half a bushel of small fish from the Clatsops this morning, which they caught about 40 miles up the Columbia in their scooping nets. Since this is an unusual fish for me and one that no one in the party has ever seen, I’ve drawn a likeness of it as large as life on the next page. It’s as perfect as I can make it with my pen and should give a general idea of the fish. The rays of the fins are boney but not sharp, though somewhat pointed. The small fin on the back next to the tail has no bony rays, just a thin membranous film. The fins next to the gills have eleven rays each, those of the abdomen have eight each, the anal fin has 20 and two half-formed in front, and the back fin has eleven rays. All the fins are white. The back is bluish-dusty, while the lower sides and belly are silvery white, with no spots anywhere. The first gill behind the eye has a bluish tint, and the second is a light gold color, almost white. The pupil of the eye is black, and the iris is silvery white. The lower jaw exceeds the upper, and the mouth opens wide, folding like that of a herring. It has no teeth. The abdomen is blunt and smooth, differing from the herring, shad, anchovy, etc., of the Malacapterygious Order and Class Clupea, to which I think it is more closely related than to any other, even though it lacks their pointed and serrated abdomen with the lower jaw extending beyond the upper one. The scales of this little fish are so small and thin that, without close inspection, you would assume they had none. They are filled with roe of a pure white color and have scarcely any noticeable digestive tract. I found them best when cooked Indian style, which is by roasting several of them together on a wooden spit without any prior preparation. They are so fatty that they require no additional sauce, and I think they are superior to any fish I have ever tasted, even more delicate and luscious than the whitefish from the lakes, which used to be my standard of excellence among fish. I have heard fresh anchovies highly praised, but I hope I can be forgiven for believing this is just as good. The bones are so soft and fine that they pose no obstruction when eating this fish.
[Lewis, February 26, 1806]
Wednesday February 26th 1806. This morning we dispatched Drewyer and two men in our Indian canoe up the Columbia River to take sturgeon and Anchovey. or if they were unsuccessfull in fishing we directed them to purchase fish from the natives for which purpose we had furnished them with a few articles such as the natives are pleased with. we also Sent Shields, Joseph Fields and Shannon up the Netul to hunt Elk. and directed Reubin Fields and some others to hunt in the point towards the praries of Point Adams. thus we hope shortly to replenish our stock of provision which is now reduced to a mere minnamum. we have three days provision only in store and that of the most inferior dryed Elk a little tainted. a comfortable prospect for good living. Sewelel is the Chinnook and Clatsop name for a small animal found in the timbered country on this coast. it is more abundant in the neighbourhood of the great falls and rapids of the Columbia than immediately on the coast. the natives make great use of the skins of this animal in forming their robes, which they dress with the fur on them and attatch together with sinews of the Elk or deer. I have never seen the animal and can therefore discribe it only from the skin and a slight view which some of our hunters have obtained of the living animal. the skin when dressed is from 14 to 18 inches in length and from 7 to 9 in width; the tail is always severed from the skin in forming their robes I cannot therefore say what form or length it is. one of the men informed me that he thought it reather short and flat. that he saw one of them run up a tree like a squirrel and that it returned and ran into a hole in the ground. the ears are short thin pointed and covered with short fine hair. they are of a uniform colour, a redish brown; tho the base of the long hairs, which exceed the fur but little in length, as well as the fur itself is of a dark colour for at least two thirds of it's length next to the skin. the fur and hair are very fine, short, thickly set and silky. the ends of the fur and tips of the hair being of the redish brown that colour predominates in the ordinary appearance of the animal. I take this animal to be about the size of the barking squirrel of the Missouri. and beleive most probably that it is of the Mustela genus, or perhaps the brown mungo itself. I have indeavoured in many instances to make the indians sensible how anxious I was to obtain one of these animals entire, without being skined, and offered them considerable rewards to furnish me with one, but have not been able to make them comprehend me. I have purchased several of the robes made of these skins to line a coat which I have had made of the skins of the tiger cat. they make a very pleasant light lining. the Braro so called by the French engages is an animal of the civit genus and much resembles the common badger. this is an inhabitant of the open plains of the Columbia as they are of those of the Missouri but are sometimes also found in the woody country. they burrow in the hard grounds of the plains with surprising ease and dexterity an will cover themselves in the ground in a very few minutes. they have five long fixed nails on each foot; those of the forefeet are much the longest; and one of those on each hind foot is double like those of the beaver. they weigh from 14 to 18 lbs. the body is reather long in proportion to it's thickness. the forelegs remarkably large and muscular and are formed like the ternspit dog. they are short as are also the hind legs. they are broad across the sholders and brest. the neck short. the head is formed much like the common fist dog only that the skull is more convex. the mouth is wide and furnished with sharp streight teeth both above and below, with four sharp streight pointed tusks, two in the upper and two in the lower jaw. the eyes are black and small. whiskers are plased in four points on each side near the nose and on the jaws near the opening of the mouth. the ears are very short wide and appressed as if they had ben cut off. the apperture through them to the head is remarkably small. the tail is about 4 inches long; the hair longest on it at it's junction with the body and becoming shorter towards it's extremity where it ends in an accute point. the hairs of the body are much longer on the side and rump than any other part, which gives the body and apparent flatness, particularly when the animal rests on it's belley. this hair is upwards of 3 inches in length particularly on the rump where it extends so far towards the point of the tail that it almost conceals the shape of that part and gives to the whole of the hinder part of the body the figure of an accute angled triangle of which the point of the tail forms the accute angle. the small quantity of coarse fur which is intermixed with the hair is of a redish pale yellow. the hair of the back, sides, upper part of the neck and tail, are of a redish light or pale yellow for about 2/3rds of their length from the skin, next black, and then tiped with white; forming a curious mixture of grey and fox coloured red with a yellowish hue. the belley flanks and breast are of the foxcoloured redish yellow. the legs black. the nails white the head on which the hair is short, is varia gated with black and white. a narrow strip of white commences on the top of the nose about 1/2 an inch from it's extremity and extends back along the center of the forehead and neck nearly to the sholders—two stripes of black succeed the white on either side imbracing the sides of the nose, the eyes, and extends back as far as the ears. two other spots of black of a ramboidal figure are placed on the side of the head near the ears and between them and the opening of the mouth. two black spots also immediately behind the ears. the other parts of the head white. this animal feeds on flesh, roots, bugs, and wild fruits.—it is very clumsy and runs very slow. I have in two instances out run this animal and caught it. in this rispect they are not much more fleet than the porcupine.
Wednesday, February 26th, 1806. This morning, we sent Drewyer and two men in our Indian canoe up the Columbia River to catch sturgeon and anchovies. If they weren’t successful in fishing, we instructed them to buy fish from the natives, for which we provided a few items that the natives like. We also sent Shields, Joseph Fields, and Shannon up the Netul to hunt elk, and directed Reubin Fields and a few others to hunt towards the prairies of Point Adams. This way, we hope to quickly restock our provisions, which are now down to a bare minimum. We only have three days' worth of provisions left, and the only food is inferior dried elk that’s a bit spoiled—a great outlook for good eating. Sewelel is the Chinook and Clatsop name for a small animal found in the timbered areas along this coast. It’s more abundant near the great falls and rapids of the Columbia than right on the coast. The natives make extensive use of the hides of this animal to create their robes, which they tan with the fur on and stitch together with sinews from elk or deer. I’ve never seen the animal myself, so I can only describe it based on the skin and a brief glimpse some of our hunters caught of the live creature. The skin, when tanned, is between 14 to 18 inches long and 7 to 9 inches wide; the tail is typically removed from the skin when forming their robes, so I can’t say what its shape or length is. One of the men told me he thought it was fairly short and flat, saying he saw one run up a tree like a squirrel before it returned and scurried into a hole in the ground. The ears are short, thin, pointed, and covered with fine, short hair. They have a uniform reddish-brown color; though the base of the long hairs, which are only slightly longer than the fur, and the fur itself is dark for about two-thirds of its length next to the skin. The fur and hair are very fine, short, thickly packed, and silky. The tips of the fur and hair are a reddish-brown, which dominates the overall look of the animal. I believe this animal is about the size of the barking squirrel of Missouri, and I suspect it may belong to the Mustela genus, or perhaps the brown mongoose itself. I’ve tried multiple times to make the Indians understand how eager I am to obtain one of these animals intact, without it being skinned, and offered them significant rewards for one, but have been unable to get my point across. I’ve purchased several of the robes made from these skins to line a coat I had made from tiger cat skins; they make for a very nice, light lining. The Braro, as the French call it, is an animal from the civet family and closely resembles the common badger. This creature inhabits the open plains of the Columbia, similar to those of the Missouri, but is sometimes found in wooded areas as well. They burrow into the hard ground of the plains with surprising ease and skill and can cover themselves in just a few minutes. They have five long, sturdy claws on each foot, with the foreclaws being the longest. One of the claws on each hind foot is double, like those of a beaver. They weigh between 14 and 18 pounds, and their bodies are relatively long compared to their thickness. Their forelegs are notably large and muscular and are shaped like those of a terrier dog. Both their forelegs and hind legs are short. They have broad shoulders and chest. Their necks are short. The head resembles that of a common house dog, but the skull is more rounded. Their mouths are wide and filled with sharp, straight teeth both above and below, with four sharp, pointed tusks—two in the upper jaw and two in the lower. Their eyes are small and black. Whiskers are positioned in four points on each side near the nose and around the jaws, close to the mouth. Their ears are very short, wide, and pressed down, as if they’ve been cut off. The opening to the head from the ears is remarkably small. The tail is about 4 inches long; the hair is longest where it connects to the body and gets shorter toward its tip, which ends in a sharp point. The hairs on the body are much longer on the sides and backside than anywhere else, giving the animal a flattened appearance, especially when it’s lying on its belly. The hair is over 3 inches long, particularly on the back, where it extends so much toward the end of the tail that it almost hides its shape, giving the back end of the body the shape of an acute-angled triangle, with the tail tip forming the acute angle. The small amount of coarse fur mixed in with the hair is a pale reddish-yellow. The hair on the back, sides, upper neck, and tail is a light reddish or pale yellow for about two-thirds of its length from the skin, then turns black and finally has white tips, creating a unique blend of grey and reddish color with a yellowish tint. The belly, sides, and chest are fox-colored reddish-yellow. The legs are black, and the nails are white. The head has short hair and is variated with black and white. A narrow white stripe starts on the tip of the nose, about half an inch from its end, and goes back along the center of the forehead and neck nearly to the shoulders. Two black stripes follow the white on either side, wrapping around the nose, the eyes, and extending back to the ears. Two additional black spots, shaped like rhombuses, are located on the sides of the head near the ears, between them and the mouth. There are also two black spots just behind the ears. The remaining parts of the head are white. This animal feeds on meat, roots, insects, and wild fruits—it is very clumsy and runs quite slowly. In fact, I’ve outpaced this animal on two occasions and caught it. In this respect, they are not much faster than a porcupine.
[Clark, February 26, 1806]
Wednesday February 26th 1806 This morning we dispatched Drewyer and two men in our indian canoe up the Columbia River to take Sturgion and Anchovey. or if they were unsucksessfull in fishing we directed them to purchase fish from the nativs, for which purpose we had furnished them with a fiew articles Such as the nativs are pleased with. we also Sent Shields Jo. Field and Shannon up the Netul to hunt Elk. and directed Reubin Field and Some other man to hunt in the point towards the Praries & point Adams. thus we hope Shortly to replenish our Stock of provisions which is now reduced to a mear minnamum. we have three days provisions only in Store and that of the most inferior dried Elk a little tainted. what a prospect for good liveing at Fort Clatsop at present.
Wednesday, February 26, 1806 This morning, we sent Drewyer and two men in our Indian canoe up the Columbia River to catch sturgeon and anchovies. If they weren’t successful in fishing, we instructed them to buy fish from the natives. For this purpose, we provided them with a few items that the natives appreciate. We also sent Shields, Jo. Field, and Shannon up the Netul to hunt elk, and directed Reubin Field and another man to hunt in the area toward the prairies and Point Adams. We hope to quickly restock our provisions, which have now been reduced to a bare minimum. We only have three days' worth of supplies left, and that consists of the lowest quality dried elk, which is slightly spoiled. What a bleak outlook for decent living at Fort Clatsop right now.
Se we lel is the Clatsop and Chinnook name for a Small animal found in the timbered Country on this Coast. it is more abundant in the neighbourhood of the great falls and rapids of the Columbia than imediately on the Coast. the nativs make great use of the Skins of this animal in forming their robes, which they dress with the fur on them and attached together with the sinears of the Elk or Deer. I have never Seen the ammale and can therefore only discribe it from the Skin and a Slight view which Some of our party have obtained of the liveing animal. the Skin when dressed is from 14 to 18 inches in length, and from 7 to 9 in width; the tail is always Severed from the body in forming their robes, I cannot therefore Say in what form or length it is. one of the men informed me that he thought it reather Short and flat. that he saw one of them run up a tree like a squirel, and that it returned and ran into a hole in the ground. the ears are Short, thin, pointed and Covered with Short fine hair. they are of uniform Colour, a redish brown; tho the base of the long hairs, exceed the fur but little in length, as well as the fur itself is of a Dark colour for at least 2/3ds of it's length next to the Skin. the fur and hair are very fine, Short, thickly Set, and Silky. the ends of the fur and tips of the hair is of a redish brown, that colour prodominates in the ordinary appearance of the Animate. I took this animal to be about the Size of the barking Squirel of the Missouri. and believe most probably that it is of the Mustela genus, or perhaps the brown mungo itself I have in maney instances endeavured to make the nativs Sensiable how anxious I was to obtain one of those animals entire, without being Skined, and offered them rewards to furnish me with one, but have not been able to make them Comprehend me. we have purchased Several of the roabs made of those Skins to loin a westcoat of the Sea otter, which I have made and Capt Lewis a Tiger Cat Skin Coat loined with them also, they make a very pleasant light lighting.
Se we lel is the Clatsop and Chinook name for a small animal found in the wooded areas along this coast. It is more common near the great falls and rapids of the Columbia than right on the coast. The natives make extensive use of this animal's skins to create their robes, which they dress with the fur intact and connect using the sinews of elk or deer. I have never seen the animal, so I can only describe it based on the skin and a brief glimpse that some members of our party managed to get of the live animal. The skin, when dressed, measures about 14 to 18 inches in length and 7 to 9 inches in width; the tail is always severed from the body when they make their robes, so I can't say what its shape or length is. One of the men told me that he thought the tail was relatively short and flat. He saw one of them run up a tree like a squirrel, then return and disappear into a hole in the ground. The ears are short, thin, pointed, and covered with short fine hair. They are uniformly reddish-brown; although the base of the long hairs is only slightly longer than the fur, the fur itself is dark for at least two-thirds of its length next to the skin. The fur and hair are very fine, short, thickly set, and silky. The tips of the fur and hair are reddish-brown, which predominates in the animal's overall appearance. I estimated that this animal is about the size of the barking squirrel from Missouri and believe it is likely part of the Mustela genus, or perhaps even the brown mongoose itself. I have often tried to convey to the natives how eager I am to obtain one of these animals whole, without being skinned, and have offered them rewards to provide me with one, but I have not been able to make them understand. We have purchased several of the robes made from these skins to combine with a vest made of sea otter, which I have created, and Captain Lewis has also made a coat lined with tiger cat skin using them; they make for a very pleasant light lining.
The Rat in the rocky mountains on its west side are like those on the upper part of the Missouri in and near those Mountains and have the distingushing trait of possessing a tail covered with hair like other parts of the body; one of these we caught at the white bear Islands in the beginning of July last and then partially discribed.
The rats in the Rocky Mountains on the west side are similar to those in the upper part of the Missouri River in and around those mountains. They have the distinctive feature of having a tail covered in hair, just like the rest of their bodies. We caught one of these at the White Bear Islands in early July and partially described it then.
There is rats in this neighbourhood but I have not seen them it is most probable that they are like those of the Atlantic States, or at least the native rat of our country which have no hair on their tail. this Specis we found on the Missouri as far up it as the woody country extended. it is as large as the Common European house rat or reather larger is of a lighter Colour bordering more on the lead or drab colour, the hair longer; and the female has only four tits which are placed far back near the hinder legs. this rat I have Seen in the Southern parts of the State of Kentucky & west of the Miami.
There are rats in this neighborhood, but I haven’t seen them. It’s very likely that they’re similar to those in the Atlantic States, or at least to the native rat from our country, which has no hair on its tail. We found this species on the Missouri River as far up as the wooded area extends. It’s about the size of the common European house rat, maybe even a bit larger, and it has a lighter color, leaning more towards lead or drab. The fur is longer, and the female only has four teats, which are located far back near the hind legs. I have seen this rat in the southern parts of Kentucky and west of the Miami.
The Mouse and mole of this neighbourhood are the Same as those native animals with us.
The mouse and mole in this area are the same as those native animals we have.
The Panther is found indifferently either in the great Plains of Columbia the Western Side of the Rocky Mountains or on this coast in the timbered country. it is precisily the Same animal common to the Atlantic States, and most commonly met with on our frontiers or unsettled parts of the Country. this animal is Scerce in the Country where they exist and are So remarkable Shye and watchfull that it is extreamly dificuelt to kill them.
The Panther can be found in either the vast plains of Columbia, the western side of the Rocky Mountains, or along the coast in forested areas. It is exactly the same animal that is common in the Atlantic States and is most often encountered on our frontiers or in undeveloped areas of the country. This animal is rare in the regions it inhabits and is so remarkably shy and alert that it is extremely difficult to hunt them.
The Polecat is found in every part of the Country. they are very abundant on Some parts of the Columbia, particularly in the neighbourhood of the Great falls & Narrows of that river, where they live in the Clifts along the river & feed on the offal of the Indian fishing Shores. they are the Same as those of other parts of North America.
The polecat can be found all over the country. They are quite common in certain areas of the Columbia, especially near the Great Falls and Narrows of that river, where they reside in the cliffs along the river and eat the remains of fish from the Indian fishing shores. They are the same as those found in other parts of North America.
[Lewis, February 27, 1806]
Thursday February 27th 1806. Reubin Fields returned this evening and had not killed anything. he reports that there are no Elk towards point Adams. Collins who had hunted up the Netul on this side returned in the evening having killed a buck Elk. Willard still continues very unwell the other sick men have nearly recovered. Gutridge and McNeal who have the pox are recovering fast, the former nearly well.
Thursday, February 27, 1806. Reubin Fields came back this evening without any success in hunting. He reports that there are no elk near Point Adams. Collins, who had been hunting up the Netul on this side, returned in the evening with a dead buck elk. Willard is still feeling very unwell, but the other sick men are almost better. Gutridge and McNeal, who have the pox, are recovering quickly; the former is nearly well.
The rat in the Rocky mountain on it's West side are like those on the upper part of the Missouri in and near those mountains and have the distinguishing trait of possessing a tail covered with hair like other parts of the body; one of those we caught at the White bear Islands in the beginning of July last and was then discribed. I have seen the nests of those in this neighbourhood but not the animal. I think it most probable that they are like those of the Atlantic states or at least the native rat of our country which have no hair on the tail. this species we found on the Missouri as far up it as the woody country extended. it is as large as the common European house rat or reather larger, is of a lighter colour bordering more on the lead or drab colour, the hair longer; and the female has only four tits which are placed far back near the hinder legs. this rat I have observed in the Western parts of the State of Georgia and also in Madison's cave in the state of Virginia the mouse and mole of this neighbourhood are the same as those native animals with us. The Panther is found indifferently either in the Great Plains of Columbia, the Western side of the rocky mountains or on this coast in the timbered country. it is precisely the same animal common to the Atlantic coast, and most commonly met with on our frontiers or unsettled parts of the country. this animal is scarce in the country where they exist and are so remarkable shye and watchfull that it is extreemly difficult to kill them.
The rats in the Rocky Mountains on the west side are similar to those in the upper part of the Missouri River near those mountains and have the unique feature of having tails covered with hair, just like the rest of their bodies. We caught one of these at the White Bear Islands at the beginning of July last year and described it then. I’ve seen their nests in this area but not the actual animals. I think it’s very likely they are similar to those found in the Atlantic states or at least the native rats in our country, which have no hair on their tails. We found this species in the Missouri River as far upstream as where the wooded areas begin. They are about the same size as the common European house rat or maybe a bit larger, lighter in color, leaning more towards a lead or drab shade, with longer hair. The females have only four nipples, which are located far back near their hind legs. I have observed this rat in the western parts of Georgia and also in Madison's Cave in Virginia. The mice and moles in this area are the same as those native to our home. The panther can be found either in the Great Plains of Columbia, the western side of the Rocky Mountains, or along this coast in the forested areas. It is exactly the same animal that’s common on the Atlantic coast and is most often seen on our frontiers or in unsettled regions. This animal is rare where it exists and is so remarkably shy and alert that it’s extremely difficult to hunt them.
[Clark, February 27, 1806]
Thursday February 27th 1806 Reubin Field returned this evening and had not killed anything, he reported that there were no Elk towards point Adams. Collins who had hunted up the Netul on this Side returned in the evening haveing killed a buck Elk. Willard Still Continue very unwell the other Sick men have nearly recovered. Goodrich & McNeal who have the Pox are recovering fast, the former nearly well. La Page complaining.
Thursday, February 27th, 1806: Reubin Field came back this evening and hadn’t killed anything. He said there were no elk near Point Adams. Collins, who had hunted up the Netul on this side, returned in the evening after killing a buck elk. Willard is still feeling very unwell, but the other sick men are almost recovered. Goodrich and McNeal, who have the pox, are getting better quickly; the former is nearly well. La Page is complaining.
The Braro so called by the French engages is an animal of the Civit genus and much resembles the common badger. this is an enhabitent of the open plains of the Columbia as they are of those of the Missouri, but are Sometimes also found in the woody country. they burrow in the hard Grounds in the Plains with Surprising ease and dexterity and will cover themselves in the Ground in a very fiew minits. they have five long fixed nails on each foot; those of the fore feet are much the longest; and one of those on each hind foot is double like those of the beaver. they weigh from 14 to 20 lbs. the body is reather long in perportion to its thickness. the fore legs remarkably large and muscular and are formed like the turnspit dog. they are Short as also the hind legs. they are broad across the Sholders and breast. the neck Short, the head is formed much like the Common fist dog only that the Skull is more Convex, the mouth is wide and furnishid with long Sharp teeth, both above and below, and with four Sharp Streight Pointed tushes, two in the upper and two in the lower jaw. the eyes are black and Small. Whiskers are placed in four points on each Side near the nose and on the jaws near the opening of the mouth. the ears are very Short wide and appressed as if they had been cut off. the appertue through them to the head is remarkably Small; the tail is about 4 inches long; the hair longest on it at it's junction, with the body and becomeing Shorter towards it's extremity where it ends in an accute point. the hairs of the body are much longer on the Sides and rump than any other part, which givs the body an appearent flatness, particularly when the animal rests on it's belly. this hair is upwards of 3 inches in length, particularly on the rump where it extends so far towards the point of the tail, that it almost conceals the Shape of that part and givs to all the hinder part of the body an accute angled triangle, of which the point of the tail forms the accute angle. the Small quantity of fur which is intermixed with the hair is of a redish pale yellow. the hair of the back, Sides upper part of the neck and tail, are of redish light or pale yellow fox about two thirds of their length from the Skin, next black, and then tiped with white; forming a curious mixture of grey and fox colourd. red with a yellowish hue. the belly flanks and breast are of the fox coloured redish yellow. the legs black, the nails white. the head on which the hair is short is varigated with black and white. a narrow Strip of white Commences on the top of the nose about half an inch from its extremity and extends back along the Center of the forehead and neck nearly to the Sholders- two Stripes of black Suckceed the white on either Side, imbraceing the Side of the nose, the eyes, and extends back as far as the ears. two other Spots of black of a romboidal figure are placed on the Side of the head near the ears and between them and the opening of the mouth. two black Spots also imediately behind the ears. the other part of the head white. this animal feeds on flesh, roots, bugs and wild fruits.- it is very clumsy and runs very Slow, depending more on burring to Secure it Self than running. I have in Several instances out run and caught this animal. in this respect they are not much more fleet than the porcupine.
The animal called the Braro by the French is part of the Civit genus and closely resembles the common badger. It inhabits the open plains of the Columbia and Missouri but can also be found in wooded areas. They burrow into hard ground in the plains with surprising ease and skill, covering themselves in the ground in just a few minutes. They have five long, fixed claws on each foot; those on the front feet are the longest, and one claw on each hind foot is double like those of a beaver. They weigh between 14 to 20 lbs. The body is relatively long compared to its thickness. The front legs are notably large and muscular, resembling those of a turnspit dog. Both the front and hind legs are short. They have broad shoulders and a wide chest. The neck is short, and the head resembles that of a common fighting dog, except the skull is more convex. The mouth is wide, equipped with long, sharp teeth both above and below, along with four sharp, straight tusks—two in the upper jaw and two in the lower jaw. Their eyes are small and black. Whiskers are found at four points on either side, near the nose and on the jaws near the mouth. The ears are very short, wide, and flattened as if they had been trimmed. The opening for the ears is notably small. The tail is about 4 inches long; hair is longest at its connection to the body and shortens toward the tip, where it ends in a sharp point. The hair on the body is much longer on the sides and rump than on other parts, giving the body a flat appearance, especially when the animal rests on its belly. This hair can be over 3 inches long, particularly on the rump, extending so far towards the tip of the tail that it almost conceals its shape, creating an acute-angled triangle shape with the point of the tail forming the acute angle. The small amount of fur mixed with the hair is a reddish-pale yellow. The hair on the back, sides, upper neck, and tail is a reddish light or pale yellow about two-thirds of their length from the skin, then black, and finally tipped with white; this forms a unique blend of gray and reddish-colored fox fur with a yellowish hue. The belly, flanks, and breast are a reddish-yellow fox color. The legs are black, and the claws are white. The head, with short hair, is patterned with black and white. A narrow strip of white starts on top of the nose about half an inch from the end and runs back along the center of the forehead and neck nearly to the shoulders—two black stripes follow the white on either side, wrapping around the sides of the nose, the eyes, and extending back to the ears. Two additional rhomboidal black spots are located on the sides of the head near the ears, between them and the mouth. There are also two black spots just behind the ears. The rest of the head is white. This animal eats meat, roots, bugs, and wild fruits. It is very clumsy and runs slowly, relying more on burrowing to protect itself than on running. I have, on several occasions, outpaced and caught this animal. In this regard, they are not much faster than a porcupine.
[Lewis, February 28, 1806]
Friday February 28th 1806. Reubin Fields and Collins set out this morning early on a hunting excurtion. Kuskelar a Clatsop man and his wife visited us today. they brought some Anchovies, Sturgeon, a beaver robe, and some roots for sail tho they asked so high a price for every article that we purchased nothing but a part of a Sturgeon for which we gave a few fishing hooks. we suffered them to remain all night. Shields Jos. Fields and Shannon returned late this evening having killed five Elk tho two of them ar on a mountain at a considerable distance. we ordered these hunters to return early in the morning and continue their hunt, and Sergt. Gass to take a party and go in quest of the Elk which they had killed. the hunters inform us that the Elk are tolerable plenty near the mountains about 9 or ten miles distant. Kuskelar brought a dog which Cruzatte had purchased.
Friday, February 28th, 1806. Reubin Fields and Collins set out early this morning on a hunting trip. Kuskelar, a Clatsop man, and his wife visited us today. They brought some anchovies, sturgeon, a beaver robe, and some roots for sale, but they asked such high prices for everything that we ended up buying only a piece of sturgeon in exchange for a few fishing hooks. We let them stay overnight. Shields, Jos. Fields, and Shannon returned late this evening, having killed five elk, though two of them are on a mountain at a considerable distance. We instructed these hunters to head out early in the morning to continue their hunt, and ordered Sergeant Gass to take a group to search for the elk they had killed. The hunters informed us that elk are fairly plentiful near the mountains, about 9 or 10 miles away. Kuskelar brought along a dog that Cruzatte had purchased.
The hare on this side of the Rocky mountains is exclusively the inhabitant of the great Plains of Columbia, as they are of those of the Missouri East of these mountains. they weigh from 7 to eleven pounds. the measure of one which weighed ten lbs. was as follows. from the extremity of the hinder, to that of the fore feet when extended 3 F. length from nose to the extremity of the tail 2 F. 2 I. hight when standing erect 1 F. 3 I. girth of the body 1 F. 4 I. length of tail 61/2 I. length of ear 51/2 I. width of do 3 1/8 I. from the hip to the extremity of toe of the hind foot 1 F. 41/4 I.—the eye is large and prominent. the pupil is circular, of a deep sea green and occupys one third of the diameter of the eye, the iris is of a bright yellowish silver colour. the ears are placed far back on the head and very near each other, they are flexable and the animal moves them with great ease and quickness, and can dilate and throw them forward, or contract and fold them on his back at pleasure. the fold of the front of the ear is of a redish brown colour, the inner folds or those which lie together when the ears are thrown back, and which occupy 2/3ds of the width of the ears are of a pure white except the tips of the ears for about an inch. the hinder folds or those which lie on the back are of a light grey. the head neck, back, sholders, sides, & outer part of the legs and thyes are of a lead coloured grey; the sides as they approach the belley become gradually more white. the belley, brest, and inner part of the legs and thyes are white, with a slight shade of the lead colour. the tail is round and blontly pointed, covered with fine soft white fur not quite as long as on the other parts of the body. the body is covered with a deep fine soft close fur. the colours here discribed are those which the animal assumes from the middle of April to the middle of November, the ballance of the year they are of a pure white, except the black and redish brown of the ears which never changes. a few redish brown spots are sometimes seen intermixed with the white, at this season, on their heads and upper part of the neck and sholders. the body of this animal is smaller and longer in proportion to it's hight than the rabbit. when it runs it carrys it's tail streight behind in the direction of it's body. they appear to run with more ease and bound with greater agility than any animal I ever saw. they are extreemly fleet and never burrow or take sheter in the ground when pursued. it's teeth are like those of the rabbit as is also it's upper lip which is divided as high as the nose. it's food is grass, herbs, and in winter feeds much on the bark of several aromatic shrubs which grow in the plains and the young willow along the rivers and other wartercourses.—I have measured the leaps of this animal and find them commonly from 18 to 21 feet. they are generally found seperate, and never seen to asscociate in any number or more than two or three.—the rabbit are the same of our country and are found indifferently either in the praries or woodlands. they are not very abundant in this country. The Pole-cat is also found in every part of the country. they are very abundant on some parts of the columbia, particularly in the neighbourhood of the great falls and narrows of that river, where they live in the clifts along the river and feed on the offal of the Indian fishing shores. these are the same as those of other parts of North America.
The hare on this side of the Rocky Mountains lives only in the Great Plains of Columbia, just like those in Missouri to the east of these mountains. They weigh between 7 and 11 pounds. One that weighed 10 pounds measured as follows: from the tip of the hind feet to the tip of the front feet when extended, it was 3 feet long; from the nose to the tip of the tail, it was 2 feet 2 inches; height when standing up was 1 foot 3 inches; the girth of the body was 1 foot 4 inches; length of the tail was 6 ½ inches; length of the ear was 5 ½ inches; width of the ear was 3 1/8 inches; and from the hip to the tip of the toe of the hind foot, it was 1 foot 4 ¼ inches. The eye is large and prominent, with a circular pupil of deep sea green that occupies one-third of the eye's diameter, and the iris is a bright yellowish-silver color. The ears are placed far back on the head and very close together; they are flexible and the animal moves them with great ease and speed. It can expand and tilt them forward or contract and fold them back at will. The front fold of the ear is reddish-brown, while the inner folds, which lie together when the ears are back, cover two-thirds of the width of the ears and are pure white, except for the tips, which are about an inch long. The back folds are light gray. The head, neck, back, shoulders, sides, and outer parts of the legs and thighs are lead-colored gray, and the sides gradually turn whiter as they approach the belly. The belly, chest, and inner parts of the legs and thighs are white, with a slight hint of lead color. The tail is round and bluntly pointed, covered with fine soft white fur that’s not as long as the fur on the rest of the body. The body has a deep, fine, soft, close fur. The colors described here are typical for the animal from mid-April to mid-November; for the rest of the year, they are pure white, except for the black and reddish-brown of the ears, which never changes. Occasionally, some reddish-brown spots can be seen mixed with the white on their heads and the upper parts of the neck and shoulders during this season. This animal's body is smaller and longer in proportion to its height than that of a rabbit. When it runs, it holds its tail straight behind in line with its body. They seem to run more easily and leap with greater agility than any animal I've ever seen. They are extremely fast and never burrow or take shelter in the ground when they are being chased. Its teeth resemble those of a rabbit, and its upper lip is divided up to the nose. Its diet consists of grass and herbs, and in winter, it feeds a lot on the bark of various aromatic shrubs growing in the plains and the young willows along rivers and other waterways. I've measured the leaps of this animal and found them usually ranging from 18 to 21 feet. They are generally found alone and are rarely seen in groups larger than two or three. The rabbits here are the same as those from our country and can be found both in the prairies and in woodlands. They are not very abundant in this area. The polecat is also found throughout the country and is very common in certain regions along the Columbia River, especially near the great falls and narrows, where they live in the cliffs along the river and feed on leftovers from Indian fishing shores. These are the same as those found in other parts of North America.
[Clark, February 28, 1806]
Friday February 28th 1806 Reuben Field and Collins Set out this morning early on a hunting excurtion up the Netul. Kus ke-lar a Clatsop man, his wife and a Small boy (a Slave, who he informed me was his Cook, and offerd to Sell him to me for beeds & a gun) visited us to day they brought Some anchovies, Sturgeon, a beaver robe, and Some roots for Sale tho they asked Such high prices for every article that we purchased nothing but a part of a Sturgeon for which we gave a fiew fishing hooks. we Suffered them to Stay all night. Shields Jos. Field and Shannon returned late this evening haveing killed five Elk tho two of them are of a mountain at a considerable distance. we ordered these hunters to return early in the morning and continue the hunt, and Sergt. Gass to take a party and go in quest of the Elk which they had killed. the hunters informed us that the Elk is tolerable plenty near the mountains about nine or ten miles distant. Kuskalaw brought a dog which Peter Crusat had purchased with his Capo which this fellow had on.
Friday, February 28th, 1806 Reuben Field and Collins set out early this morning on a hunting trip up the Netul. Kus ke-lar, a Clatsop man, visited us today with his wife and a small boy (a slave, whom he told me was his cook, and he offered to sell him to me for beads and a gun). They brought some anchovies, sturgeon, a beaver robe, and some roots for sale, but they asked such high prices for everything that we only bought a portion of a sturgeon in exchange for a few fishing hooks. We let them stay the night. Shields, Jos. Field, and Shannon returned late this evening having killed five elk, though two of them are quite a distance away in the mountains. We instructed these hunters to head out early in the morning to continue the hunt, and Sergt. Gass was to take a group to search for the elk they had killed. The hunters informed us that elk are fairly plentiful near the mountains, about nine or ten miles away. Kuskalaw brought a dog that Peter Crusat had purchased with his cap, which this fellow was wearing.
The Hare on this Side of the Rocky Mountains is exclusively the inhabitents of the Great Plains of Columbia, as they are of those of the Missouri East of the mountains. they weigh from 7 to 12 pounds. the measure of one which weighed 10 pounds, was as follows. from the extremity of the hinder, to that of the fore feet when extended 3 Feet. length from nose to the extremity of the tail 2 feet, 2 inches. Hight when Standing erect 1 foot, 3 inches-. Girth of the body 1 foot, 4 inches-. length of tail 61/2 inches-. length of ear 51/2 inches-. width of ear 3 inches and 1/8-. from the hip to the extremity of toe of the hind foot 1 foot 41/4 inches-. The eye is large and prominent. the pupil is circular, of a deep Sea Green and Occupies one third of the diamiter of the eye, the iris is of a bright yellowish silver colour. The ears are placed far back on the head and very near each other, they are flexable and the animal moves them with great ease and quickness and can dilate and throw them foward, or contract and fold them on his back at pleasure. the fold of the front of the ear is of a redish brown colour, the inner folds are those which lie together when the ears are thrown back, and which occupies 2/3ds of the width of the ears of a pure white except the tips of the ears for about an inch. the hinder folds or those which lie on the back are of a light grey; the Sides as they approach the belly become gradually more white, the belly brest, and inner part of the legs and thyes are white, with a Slight Shade of a lead Colour. The Head, neck, back Sholders, Sides, outer part of the legs and thyes are of a Lead Coloured Grey. the tail is bluntly pointed and round, covered with fine Soft white fur not quite as long as on the other parts of the body. the body is covered with a deep fine Soft close fur. the colours here discribed are those which the Animale assumes from the middle of April to the middle of November, the ballance of the year they are of a pure white, except the black and redish brown of the ears which never changes. a fiew redish brown spots are Sometimes Seen intermixed with the white, at this Season on the heads and upper parts of the neck an Sholders. The body of this animal is Smaller and longer in purpotion to it's hight than the Rabbit. when it runs it carrys its tail Streight behind in the direction of it's body. they appear to run with more ease and bound with greater agility than any animal I ever saw. they are extreemly fleet and never burrow or take Shelter in the grounds when pursued. it's teeth are like those of the rabit, as is also its upper lip which is divided as high as the nose. it's food is Grass, herbs, and in winter feeds much on the bark of Several arematic Shrubs which grow in the plains and the young willows along the rivers and other water courses.—I have measured the leaps of this animal and find them commonly from 18 to 22 feet. they are Generally found Seperate, and never Seen to associate in any number or more than two or three.
The hare on this side of the Rocky Mountains lives exclusively in the Great Plains of Columbia, just like they do in Missouri east of the mountains. They weigh between 7 to 12 pounds. One that weighed 10 pounds measured as follows: from the tip of the hind feet to the front feet when stretched out, it was 3 feet long; the length from nose to the tip of the tail was 2 feet, 2 inches; height when standing upright was 1 foot, 3 inches; body girth was 1 foot, 4 inches; tail length was 6½ inches; ear length was 5½ inches; ear width was 3 inches and 1/8; from the hip to the tip of the toe of the hind foot was 1 foot, 4¼ inches. The eyes are large and prominent, with a round pupil that is deep sea green and occupies one-third of the eye's diameter; the iris is bright yellowish silver. The ears are set far back on the head and close together; they are flexible, and the animal can move them easily and quickly, expanding and pushing them forward or folding them back when needed. The front fold of the ear is reddish brown, while the inner folds, which lie together when the ears are folded back, are mostly pure white except for about an inch at the tips. The back folds are light grey; the sides leading to the belly gradually get whiter, while the belly, chest, and inner part of the legs and thighs are white with a slight shade of lead color. The head, neck, back, shoulders, sides, and outer parts of the legs and thighs are lead-colored grey. The tail is bluntly pointed and round, covered with fine, soft white fur that's not as long as the fur on other parts of the body. The body has deep, fine, soft, close fur. The colors described are what this animal has from mid-April to mid-November; for the rest of the year, they are pure white except for the black and reddish-brown of the ears, which never change. A few reddish-brown spots are sometimes seen on the head and upper parts of the neck and shoulders during this season. The body of this animal is smaller and longer in proportion to its height than a rabbit. When it runs, it carries its tail straight behind, in line with its body. They seem to run more easily and leap with greater agility than any animal I’ve ever seen. They are extremely fast and never burrow or take shelter in the ground when being chased. Its teeth are like those of a rabbit, as is its upper lip, which divides high up to the nose. Its diet consists of grass, herbs, and in winter, it feeds a lot on the bark of various aromatic shrubs that grow on the plains and the young willows along rivers and other waterways. I have measured the jumps of this animal and find them to commonly range from 18 to 22 feet. They are usually found alone and are never seen in groups of more than two or three.
[Lewis, March 1, 1806]
Saturday March 1st 1806. This morning Sergt. Gass and a party set out in quest of the Elk which had been killed by the hunters the day before yesterday. they returned with the flesh of three of them late in the evening. Thompson was left with the hunters in order to jurk and take care of the flesh of the remaining two. Kuskelar and wife left us about noon. he had a good looking boy of about 10 years of age with him who he informed us was his slave. this boy had been taken prisoner by the Killamucks from some nation on the Coast to the S. East of them at a great distance. like other Indian nations they adopt their slaves in their families and treat them very much as their own children. Reubin Fields and Collins who have been absent since yesterday morning returned without having killed any game. The birds of the Western side of the Rocky Mountain to the Pacific Ocean, for convenience I shall divide into two classes, which I shal designate from the habits of the birds, Terrestrial and Aquatic.
Saturday, March 1st, 1806. This morning, Sergeant Gass and a group set out in search of the elk that had been killed by the hunters the day before yesterday. They returned late in the evening with the meat from three of them. Thompson stayed behind with the hunters to process and take care of the meat from the remaining two. Kuskelar and his wife left us around noon. He had a good-looking boy of about 10 years with him, who he told us was his slave. This boy had been captured by the Killamucks from a nation located far southeast from them. Like other Indian nations, they adopt their slaves into their families and treat them much like their own children. Reubin Fields and Collins, who had been away since yesterday morning, returned without having hunted any game. For convenience, I will divide the birds found on the Western side of the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific Ocean into two classes, which I will identify based on their habits: Terrestrial and Aquatic.
The Grouse or Prarie hen is peculiarly the inhabitant of the Grait Plains of Columbia they do not differ from those of the upper portion of the Missouri, the tail of which is pointed or the feathers in it's center much longer than those on the sides. this Species differs essentially in the construction of this part of their plumage from those of the Illinois which have their tails composed of fathers of equal length. in the winter season this bird is booted even to the first joint of it's toes. the toes are also curiously bordered on their lower edges with narrow hard scales which are placed very close to each other and extend horizontally about 1/8 of an inch on each side of the toes thus adding to the width of the tread which nature seems bountifully to have furnished them at this season for passing over the snow with more ease. in the summer season those scales fall off. They have four toes on each foot. Their colour is a mixture of dark brown redish and yellowish brown and white confusedly mixed in which the redish brown prevails most on the upper parts of the body wings and tail and the white underneath the belley and lower parts of the breast and tail. they associate in large flocks in autumn & winter and are frequently found in flocks of from five to six even in summer. They feed on grass, insects, the leaves of various shrubs in the plains and on the seeds of several species of spelts and wild rye which grow in the richer parts of the plains. in winter their food is the buds of the willow & Cottonwood also the most of the native berries furnish them with food.The Indians of this neighbourhood eat the root of the Cattail or Cooper's flag. it is pleasantly taisted and appears to be very nutricious. the inner part of the root which is eaten without any previous preperation is composed of a number of capillary white flexable strong fibers among which is a mealy or starch like substance which readily desolves in the mouth and separate from the fibers which are then rejected. it appears to me that this substance would make excellent starch; nothing can be of a purer white than it is.-
The grouse or prairie hen is uniquely found in the Great Plains of Columbia. They don’t differ from those in the upper Missouri, with pointed tails where the center feathers are much longer than those on the sides. This species differs mainly in the structure of their tail feathers compared to those from Illinois, which have tails made up of feathers of equal length. In winter, this bird has feathers covering even the first joint of its toes. The toes are also uniquely edged with narrow, hard scales that are placed very closely together and extend horizontally about 1/8 inch on each side of the toes, which adds to the width of their footprint, helping them move over snow more easily. In summer, these scales fall off. They have four toes on each foot. Their color is a mix of dark brown, reddish-brown, yellowish-brown, and white in a somewhat confusing pattern, with reddish-brown dominant on the upper parts of the body, wings, and tail, and white underneath the belly and the lower parts of the breast and tail. They gather in large flocks in autumn and winter and are often found in groups of five to six even in summer. They eat grass, insects, leaves from various shrubs in the plains, and seeds from several types of spelt and wild rye that grow in the richer areas of the plains. In winter, their diet includes the buds of willow and cottonwood, along with most of the native berries. The local Native Americans eat the root of the cattail or cooper's flag. It has a pleasant taste and seems quite nutritious. The inner part of the root, which can be eaten without any preparation, consists of many fine, flexible, strong white fibers, among which is a starchy substance that dissolves easily in the mouth and separates from the fibers that are then discarded. It seems to me that this substance would make excellent starch; nothing could be whiter than it is.
[Clark, March 1, 1806]
Saturday March the 1st 1806 This morning we despatched Sergt. Gass with 12 men in two Canoes in quest of the Elk which had been killed by the hunters the day before yesterday. they returned with the flesh of three of them late in the evening. Thompson was left with the hunters in order to jurk and take care of the flesh of the remaining two. Kuskalar &c. left us about noon. The boy which this Indian offered to Sell to me is about 10 years of age. this boy had been taken prisoner by the Kit a mox from Some Nation on the Coast to the S. East of them at a great distance. like other Indian nations they adopt their Slaves in their famelies and treat them very much like their own Children. Reuben Field and Collins who had been absent Since yesterday morning returned without killing any thing.
Saturday, March 1, 1806 This morning we sent Sergeant Gass with 12 men in two canoes to find the elk that had been killed by the hunters the day before yesterday. They returned late in the evening with the meat from three of them. Thompson stayed with the hunters to process and take care of the meat from the remaining two. Kuskalar and others left us around noon. The boy this Indian offered to sell me is about 10 years old. He had been taken prisoner by the Kitamox from some nation on the southeast coast at a great distance. Like other Indian nations, they adopt their slaves into their families and treat them very much like their own children. Reuben Field and Collins, who had been gone since yesterday morning, returned without having killed anything.
The birds on the western Side of the Rocky Mountain's to the Pacific Ocian for Convenience I Shall devide into from the habit of the birds, Terrestrial and Aquatic. i e Fowls of the air, and fowls of the water.
The birds on the western side of the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific Ocean will be divided into two categories based on their habits: Terrestrial and Aquatic, meaning birds of the air and birds of the water.
The Prarie Hen sometimes called the Grouse is peculiarly the inhabitent of the Great Plains of Columbia. they do not differ from those of the upper portion of the Missouri, the tails of which is pointed or the feathers in its center much longer than those on the Sides. this Species differ assentially in the construction of this part of their plumage from those of the Illinois which have their tail composed of feathers of equal length. in the winter Season this berd is booted even to the first joint of it's toes. the toes are also curiously bordered on their lower edges with narrow hard scales which are placed very close to each other and extend horizontally about 1/8 of an inch on each Side of the toe, thus adding to the width of the tread which nature Seams bountifully to have furnished them with at this Season for passing over the Snow with more ease. in the Summer Season those Scales fall off. they have four toes on each foot. their colour is a mixture of dark brown redish and yellowish brown and white confusedly mixed in which the redish brown prevails most on the upper parts of the body wings and tail. and the white underneath the belley and lower parts of the breast and tail. they associate in large flocks in autumn & winter and are frequently found in flocks of from five to Six even in Summer. They feed on grass, insects, the leaves of various Shrubs in the Praries, and on the Seeds of Several Species of Spelts and wild rye which grow in the richer parts of the Plains. in the winter their food is the buds of the willow and Cottonwood also the most of the native berries furnish them with food. they cohabit in flock & the Cocks fight verry much at those Seasons.
The Prairie Hen, sometimes called the Grouse, is uniquely found in the Great Plains of Columbia. They don't differ from those in the upper part of the Missouri; their tails are pointed, with the center feathers significantly longer than those on the sides. This species is essentially different in the structure of their plumage from those in Illinois, which have tails made up of feathers of equal length. During the winter, this bird has feathers that extend even to the first joint of its toes. The toes are also interestingly bordered on their lower edges with narrow, hard scales that are closely spaced and extend horizontally about 1/8 of an inch on each side of the toe, adding to the width of their footprint, which nature seems to have generously provided for easier movement over snow. In the summer, these scales fall off. They have four toes on each foot. Their coloring is a mix of dark brown, reddish, yellowish-brown, and white, with reddish-brown being most prevalent on the upper parts of their body, wings, and tail, and white underneath the belly and on the lower parts of the breast and tail. They gather in large flocks in autumn and winter and are often seen in groups of five to six even in summer. They feed on grass, insects, leaves from various shrubs in the prairies, and seeds from several types of spelt and wild rye that grow in the richer areas of the plains. In winter, their diet includes the buds of willow and cottonwood, and most native berries provide them with food. They live in flocks, and the males tend to fight quite a bit during these seasons.
[Lewis, March 2, 1806]
Sunday March 2cd The diet of the sick is so inferior that they recover their strength but slowly. none of them are now sick but all in a state of convalessence with keen appetites and nothing to eat except lean Elk meat. late this evening Drewyer arrived with a most acceptable supply of fat Sturgeon, fresh Anchovies and a bag containing about a bushel of Wappetoe. we feasted on Anchovies and Wappetoe.
Sunday, March 2nd. The diet for the sick is so poor that they regain their strength only slowly. None of them are sick now, but all are in recovery with strong appetites and nothing to eat except lean elk meat. Late this evening, Drewyer arrived with a very welcome supply of fatty sturgeon, fresh anchovies, and a bag containing about a bushel of wappetoe. We feasted on anchovies and wappetoe.
The Cock of the Plains is found in the plains of Columbia and are in Great abundance from the entrance of the S. E. fork of the Columbia to that of Clark's river. this bird is about 2/3rds the size of a turkey. the beak is large short curved and convex. the upper exceeding the lower chap. the nostrils are large and the beak black. the colour is an uniform mixture of dark brown reather bordeing on a dove colour, redish and yellowish brown with some small black specks. in this mixture the dark brown prevails and has a slight cast of the dove colour at a little distance. the wider side of the large feathers of the wings are of a dark brown only. the tail is composed of 19 feathers of which that in the center is the longest, and the remaining 9 on each side deminish by pairs as they receede from the center; that is any one feather is equal in length to one equa distant from the center of the tail on the oposite side. the tail when foalded comes to a very sharp point and appears long in proportion to the body. in the act of flying the tail resembles that of a wild pigeon. tho the motion of the wings is much that of the pheasant and Grouse. they have four toes on each foot of which the hinder one is short. the leg is covered with feathers about half the distance between the knee and foot. when the wing is expanded there are wide opening between it's feathers the plumeage being so narrow that it dose not extend from one quill to the other. the wings are also proportionably short, reather more so than those of the pheasant or grouse. the habits of this bird are much the same as those of the grouse. only that the food of this fowl is almost entirely that of the leaf and buds of the pulpy leafed thorn; nor do I ever recollect seeing this bird but in the neighbourhood of that shrub. they sometimes feed on the prickley pear. the gizzard of it is large and much less compressed and muscular than in most fowls; in short it resembles a maw quite as much as a gizzard. when they fly they make a cackling noise something like the dunghill fowl. the following is a likeness of the head and beak. the flesh of the cock of the Plains is dark, and only tolerable in point of flavor. I do not think it as good as either the Pheasant or Grouse.—it is invariably found in the plains.The feathers about it's head are pointed and stif some hairs about the base of the beak. feathers short fine and stif about the ears.
The Cock of the Plains is found in the Columbia plains and is abundant from the entrance of the southeastern fork of the Columbia to Clark's River. This bird is about two-thirds the size of a turkey. Its beak is large, short, curved, and convex, with the upper part extending beyond the lower. The nostrils are large, and the beak is black. The overall color is a uniform mix of dark brown, leaning toward a dove color, reddish, and yellowish brown with some small black specks. In this mix, the dark brown is dominant and has a slight dove color hue when viewed from a distance. The wider side of the large feathers on the wings is only dark brown. The tail consists of 19 feathers, with the center feather being the longest, while the remaining 9 on each side gradually decrease in length. Each feather on one side is equal in length to the one directly opposite it on the other side. When folded, the tail comes to a very sharp point and appears long in relation to the body. In flight, the tail resembles that of a wild pigeon, although the wing motion is more like that of the pheasant and grouse. They have four toes on each foot, with the back toe being short. Their legs are covered with feathers for about half the distance between the knee and foot. When the wing is spread, there are wide gaps between its feathers, as the plumage is so narrow that it doesn't extend from one quill to the other. The wings are also relatively short, more so than those of the pheasant or grouse. The habits of this bird are similar to those of the grouse, except its diet consists almost entirely of the leaves and buds of the pulpy-leaved thorn, and I do not recall ever seeing this bird outside of that shrub's vicinity. They sometimes feed on prickly pear. Its gizzard is large, less compressed, and muscular than in most birds; in fact, it resembles a maw more than a gizzard. When they fly, they make a cackling noise similar to that of a barnyard fowl. The following is a likeness of the head and beak. The flesh of the Cock of the Plains is dark and just tolerable in flavor; I don't think it's as good as either the pheasant or grouse. It is always found in the plains. The feathers around its head are pointed, with stiff hairs at the base of the beak, and there are short, fine, stiff feathers around the ears.
[Clark, March 2, 1806]
Sunday March 2nd 1806 The diet of the Sick is So inferior that they recover their Strength but Slowly. none of them are now Sick but all in a State of Covelessence with keen appetites and nothing to eate except lean Elk meat.
Sunday, March 2nd, 1806 The diet of the sick is so poor that they regain their strength only slowly. None of them are currently ill, but all are in a state of recovery with strong appetites and nothing to eat except lean elk meat.
The nativs of this neighbourhood eate the root of the Cattail or Cooper's flag. it is pleasantly tasted and appears to be very nutrecious. the inner part of the root which is eaten without any previous preperation is Composed of a number of capellary white flexable Strong fibers among which is a mealy or Starch like Substance which readily disolves in the mouth and Seperates from the fibers which are then rejected. it appears to me that this Substance would make excellent Starch; nothing Can be of a pureer white than it is
The people from this neighborhood eat the root of the cattail, also known as cooper's flag. It has a pleasant taste and seems to be very nutritious. The inner part of the root, which can be eaten without any preparation, consists of a number of fine, white, flexible, strong fibers, along with a mealy or starch-like substance that dissolves easily in the mouth and separates from the fibers, which are then spat out. It seems to me that this substance would make excellent starch; nothing can be whiter than it is.
This evening late Drewyer, Crusat & Wiser returned with a most acceptable Supply of fat Sturgen, fresh anchoves and a bag Containing about a bushel of Wappato. we feasted on the Anchovies and wappatoe.-.
This evening, Drewyer, Crusat, and Wiser came back with a really good supply of fatty sturgeon, fresh anchovies, and a bag with about a bushel of wappato. We enjoyed the anchovies and wappato.
The Heath Cock or cock of the Plains is found in the Plains of Columbia and are in great abundance from the enterance of Lewis's river to the mountains which pass the Columbia between the Great falls and Rapids of that river. this fowl is about 3/4ths the Size of a turkey. the beak is large Short Curved and convex. the upper exceeding the lower chap. the nostrils are large and the back black. the Colour is a uniform mixture of dark brown reather bordering on a dove colour, redish and yellowish brown with Some Small black Specks. in this mixture the dark brown provails and has a Slight cast of the dove colour at a little distance. the wider side of the larger feathers of the wings are of a dark brown only. the tail is composed of 19 feathers of which that in the center is the longest, and the remaining 9 on each Side deminish by pairs as they receede from the Center; that is any one feather is equal in length to one of an equal distance from the Center of the tail on the opposit Side. the tail when folded Comes to a very Sharp point and appears long in perpotion to the body in the act of flying the tail resembles that of a wild pigeon. tho the motion of the wings is much that of the Pheasant and Grouse. they have four toes on each foot of which the hinder one is Short. the leg is covered with feathers about half the distance between the knee and foot. when the wings is expanded there are wide opening between it's feathers, the plumage being So narrow that it does not extend from one quill to another. the wings are also propotionably Short, reather more So than those of the Pheasant or Grouse. the habits of this bird is much the Same as those of the Prarie hen or Grouse. only that the food of this fowl is almost entirely that of the leaf and buds of the pulpy leafed thorn, nor do I ever recollect Seeing this bird but in the neighbourhood of that Shrub. The gizzard of it is large and much less compressed and muscular than in most fowls, in Short it resembles a maw quite as much as a gizzard. When they fly they make a cackling noise Something like the dunghill fowl. the flesh of this fowl is dark and only tolerable in point of flavour. I do not think it as good as wth the Pheasant or Prarie hen, or Grouse. the feathers above it's head are pointed and Stiff Some hairs about the base of the beak. feathers Short fine and Stiff about the ears, and eye. This is a faint likeness of the Cock of the plains or Heath Cock the first of those fowls which we met with was on the Missouri below and in the neighbourhood of the Rocky Mountains and from to the mountain which passes the Columbia between the Great falls and Rapids they go in large gangues or Singularly and hide remarkably close when pursued, make Short flights, &c.
The Heath Cock, or cock of the Plains, is found in the Columbia Plains and is abundant from the entrance of Lewis's River to the mountains that extend between the Great Falls and Rapids of the Columbia River. This bird is about three-quarters the size of a turkey, with a large, short, curved, and convex beak. The upper bill is longer than the lower. The nostrils are large, and the back is black. The color is a consistent mix of dark brown, almost resembling a dove color, reddish and yellowish brown with some small black specks. In this mix, dark brown is predominant, with a slight hint of dove color when viewed from a distance. The wider sides of the larger wing feathers are dark brown. The tail consists of 19 feathers, with the center feather being the longest, while the remaining 9 on each side decrease in size as they move away from the center; each feather on one side matches the length of one at an equal distance on the opposite side. When folded, the tail comes to a sharp point and appears long in proportion to the body while flying, resembling a wild pigeon. However, the motion of the wings is more similar to that of the Pheasant and Grouse. They have four toes on each foot, with the hind toe being short. The leg is covered with feathers about halfway between the knee and foot. When the wings are spread, there are wide gaps between the feathers, as the plumage is so narrow that it doesn't connect from one quill to another. The wings are also relatively short, more so than those of the Pheasant or Grouse. This bird's habits are similar to those of the Prairie hen or Grouse, but its diet consists almost entirely of leaves and buds from the pulpy-leafed thorn. I don't recall seeing this bird anywhere other than near that shrub. Its gizzard is large, much less compressed and muscular than most birds, resembling a maw more than a gizzard. When they fly, they make a cackling sound similar to that of a domestic chicken. The flesh of this bird is dark and only mildly flavorful. I don't think it's as good as the Pheasant, Prairie hen, or Grouse. The feathers on its head are pointed and stiff, with some fine, stiff hairs at the base of the beak and shorter, fine, stiff feathers around the ears and eyes. This is a vague description of the Cock of the Plains or Heath Cock. The first of these birds we encountered was on the Missouri River, below and near the Rocky Mountains. From there to the mountains that extend between the Great Falls and Rapids, they travel in large groups or individually and can hide surprisingly well when pursued, making short flights, etc.
The large Black & White Pheasant is peculiar to that portion of the Rocky Mountains watered by the Columbia River. at least we did not See them untill we reached the waters of that river, nor Since we have left those mountains. they are about the Size of a well grown hen. the contour of the bird is much that of the redish brown Pheasant common to our country. the tail is proportionably as long and is composed of 18 feathers of equal length, of a uniform dark brown tiped with black. the feathers of the body are of a dark brown black and white. the black is that which most prodomonates, and white feathers are irregularly intermixed with those of the black and dark brown on every part but in greater perpotion about the neck breast and belly. this mixture gives it very much the appearance of that kind of dunghill fowl, which the henwives of our Countrey Call dommanicker. in the brest of Some of those birds the white prodominates most. they are not furnished with tufts of long feathers on the neck as other Pheasants are, but have a Space on each Side of the neck about 21/2 inches long and one inch in width on which no feathers grow, tho it is consealed by the feathers which are inserted on the hinder and front part of the neck, this Space Seams to Serve them to dilate or contract the feathers of the neck with more ease. the eye is dark, the beak black, uncovered Somewhat pointed and the upper exceeds the under chap. they have a narrow Strip of vermillion colour above each eye which consists of a fleshey Substance not protuberant but uneaven, with a number of minute rounded dots. it has four toes on each foot of which three are in front, it is booted to the toes. it feeds on wild fruits, particularly the berry of the Sac-a-com-mis, and much also on the Seed of the pine & fir. this fowl is usially found in Small numbers two and three & 4 together on the ground. when Supprised flies up & lights on a tree and is easily Shot their flesh is Superior to most of the Pheasant Species which we have met with. they have a gizzard as other Pheasants &c. feed also on the buds of the Small Huckleberry bushes
The large Black & White Pheasant is unique to the area of the Rocky Mountains that is fed by the Columbia River. At least, we didn't see them until we reached the waters of that river, nor have we seen them since we left those mountains. They are about the size of a well-grown hen. The shape of the bird is quite similar to that of the reddish-brown Pheasant common to our country. The tail is proportionally as long and consists of 18 feathers of equal length, with a uniform dark brown tip that is edged in black. The feathers on the body are dark brown with black and white. The black is the most prominent, while white feathers are irregularly mixed in with the black and dark brown, especially around the neck, breast, and belly. This mixture gives it a strong resemblance to the type of domestic chicken that the housewives in our country call "dommanicker." In the breast of some of these birds, the white tends to dominate. They don't have the long feather tufts on their necks like other Pheasants do, but there is a space on each side of the neck about 2.5 inches long and one inch wide where no feathers grow, although it is covered by feathers that grow on the back and front of the neck. This space seems to help them expand or contract the feathers on their necks more easily. Their eyes are dark, their beaks are black and somewhat pointed, with the upper beak longer than the lower. They have a narrow strip of vermilion color above each eye made of fleshy, uneven material with a number of tiny rounded dots. They have four toes on each foot, three of which are in front, and their toes are feathered. They feed on wild fruits, particularly the berry of the Sac-a-com-mis, and also on the seeds of pine and fir. This bird is usually found in small groups of two, three, or four on the ground. When startled, it flies up into a tree and is easy to shoot; its flesh is superior to most of the Pheasant species we have encountered. They have a gizzard like other Pheasants and also feed on the buds of small huckleberry bushes.
[Lewis, March 3, 1806]
Monday March 3rd 1806. Two of our perogues have been lately injured very much in consequence of the tide leaving them partially on shore. they split by this means with their own weight. we had them drawn out on shore. our convalessents are slowly on the recovery. Lapage is taken sick, gave him a doze of Scots pills which did not operate. no movement of the party today worthy of notice. every thing moves on in the old way and we are counting the days which seperate us from the 1st of April and which bind us to fort Clatsop.—The large black and white pheasant is peculiar to that portion of the Rocky Mountain watered by the Columbia river. at least we did not see them in these mountains until I we reached the waters of that river nor since we have left those mountains. they are about the size of a well grown hen. the contour of the bird is much that of the redish brown pheasant common to our country. the tail is proportionably as long and is composed of eighteen feathers of equal length, of an uniform dark brown tiped with black. the feathers of the body are of a dark brown black and white. the black is that which most predominates, and white feathers are irregularly intermixed with those of the black and dark brown on every part, but in greater proportion about the neck breast and belley. this mixture gives it very much the appearance of that kind of dunghill fowl which the hen-wives of our country call dom-manicker. in the brest of some of these birds the white predominates most. they are not furnished with tufts of long feathers on the neck as our pheasants are, but have a space on each side of the neck about 21/2 inches long and 1 In. in width on which no feathers grow, tho tis concealed by the feathers which are inserted on the hinder and front part of the neck; this space seems to surve them to dilate or contract the feathers of the neck with more ease. the eye is dark, the beak black, curved somewhat pointed and the upper exceeds the under chap. they have a narrow stripe of vermillion colour above each eye which consists of a fleshey substance not protuberant but uneven with a number of minute rounded dots. it has four toes on each foot of which three are in front. it is booted to the toes. it feeds on wild fruits, particularly the berry of the sac-a-commis, and much also on the seed of the pine and fir.
Monday, March 3rd, 1806. Two of our canoes have recently been damaged quite a bit because the tide left them partially on shore, causing them to split under their own weight. We had them pulled out onto the shore. Our recovering members are slowly getting better. Lapage has fallen ill; I gave him a dose of Scots pills, but they didn't work. There was no notable movement from the party today. Everything continues as usual, and we are counting the days until April 1st, which ties us to Fort Clatsop. The large black and white pheasant is unique to the part of the Rocky Mountains that’s watered by the Columbia River. At least, we didn’t see them in these mountains until we reached the river and haven’t seen them since leaving those mountains. They are about the size of a well-grown hen. The shape of the bird resembles that of the reddish-brown pheasant common in our country. Its tail is proportionately long, made up of eighteen feathers of equal length, with a uniform dark brown tipped with black. The feathers on the body are a mix of dark brown, black, and white. Black predominates, while white feathers are irregularly mixed in with the black and dark brown all over, especially around the neck, breast, and belly. This mix gives it a strong resemblance to that type of barnyard fowl that people in our country call the dom-manicker. In some of these birds, white predominates on the breast. They don’t have the long feather tufts on their necks like our pheasants do, but have a featherless area on each side of the neck about 2.5 inches long and 1 inch wide, which is concealed by the feathers on the back and front of the neck. This area seems to allow them to expand or contract the neck feathers more easily. Their eyes are dark, with a black beak that is somewhat curved and pointed, where the upper beak is longer than the lower one. They have a narrow stripe of vermilion color above each eye that consists of a fleshy substance—not protruding but uneven, with a number of small rounded dots. They have four toes on each foot, three of which are at the front. Their toes are booted. They feed on wild fruits, especially the berry of the sac-a-commis, and also eat a lot of pine and fir seeds.
The small speckled pheasant found in the same country with that above discribed, differs from it only in point of size and somewhat in colour. it is scarcely half the size of the other; ascociates in much larger flocks and is very gentle. the black is more predominant and the dark bron feathers less frequent in this than the larger species. the mixture of white is also more general on every part of this bird. it is considerably smaller than our pheasant and the body reather more round. in other particulars they differ not at all from the large black and white pheasant. this by way of distinction I have called the speckled pheasant. the flesh of both these species of party coloured phesants is of a dark colour and with the means we had of cooking them not very well flavored.
The small speckled pheasant found in the same country as the one described above differs from it only in size and slightly in color. It is barely half the size of the other, usually found in much larger flocks, and is very gentle. The black color is more prominent, and the dark brown feathers are less common in this version than in the larger species. The mix of white is also more widespread across every part of this bird. It is significantly smaller than our pheasant, with a body that’s somewhat rounder. In other respects, they’re exactly the same as the large black and white pheasant. To distinguish it, I have called this one the speckled pheasant. The meat of both these types of colorful pheasants is dark and, with the cooking methods we had available, not very well flavored.
The small brown pheasant is an inhabitant of the same country and is of the size and shape of the specled pheasant which it also resembles in it's economy and habits. the stripe above the eye in this species is scarcely perceptable, and is when closely examined of a yellow or orrange colour instead of the vermillion of the outhers. it's colour is an uniform mixture of dark and yellowish brown with a slight mixture of brownish white on the breast belley and the feathers underneath the tail. the whol compound is not unlike that of the common quail only darker. this is also booted to the toes. the flesh of this is preferable to either of the others and that of the breast is as white as the pheasant of the Atlantic coast.the redish brown pheasant has been previously discribed.—The Crow raven and Large Blackbird are the same as those of our country only that the crow is here much smaller yet it's note is the same. I observe no difference either between the hawks of this coast and those of the Atlantic. I have observed the large brown hawk, the small or sparrow hawk, and the hawk of an intermediate size with a long tail and blewish coloured wings remarkably swift in flight and very firce. sometimes called in the U States the hen hawk. these birds seem to be common to every part of this country, and the hawks crows & ravens build their nests in great numbers along the high and inaccessable clifts of the Columbia river and it's S. E. branch where we passed along them.—we also met with the large hooting Owl under the Rocky mountain on the Kooskoskee river. it did not appear to differ materially from those of our country. I think it's colours reather deeper and brighter than with us, particularly the redish brown. it is the same size and form.
The small brown pheasant lives in the same area and is about the size and shape of the speckled pheasant, which it also resembles in its behavior and habits. The stripe above its eye is barely noticeable and, upon closer inspection, is a yellow or orange color instead of the vermilion found in others. Its color is a uniform blend of dark and yellowish brown with a slight mixture of brownish-white on the breast, belly, and feathers under the tail. The overall appearance is not unlike that of the common quail, just darker. It also has feathers that extend down to the toes. The flesh of this bird is preferred over either of the others, and the meat from the breast is as white as that of the pheasant found on the Atlantic coast. The reddish-brown pheasant has been previously described. The crow, raven, and large blackbird are similar to those in our country, although the crow here is much smaller; however, its call is the same. I notice no difference between the hawks of this coast and those of the Atlantic. I have seen the large brown hawk, the small sparrow hawk, and a hawk of intermediate size with a long tail and bluish-colored wings, which are remarkably swift in flight and very fierce, sometimes referred to in the U.S. as the hen hawk. These birds seem to be common in every part of this country, and the hawks, crows, and ravens build their nests in large numbers along the high and inaccessible cliffs of the Columbia River and its southeastern branch, where we passed by. We also encountered the large hooting owl under the Rocky Mountains on the Kooskoskee River. It did not appear to differ significantly from those in our country. I think its colors are a bit deeper and brighter than ours, especially the reddish-brown. It is the same size and shape.
[Clark, March 3, 1806]
Monday March 3rd 1806 Two of our Canoes have been lately injured very much in consequence of the tide leaveing them partially on Shore. they Split by this means with their own weight. we had them drawn out on Shore. our convalessents are Slowly on the recovery. La page is taken Sick. gave him Some of Scotts Pills which did not opperate. no movement of the party to day worthey of notice. every thing moves on in the old way and we are Counting the days which Seperate us from the 1st of April, & which bind us to Fort Clatsop.-.-.
Monday, March 3rd, 1806 Two of our canoes have been seriously damaged because the tide left them partially on shore. They split under their own weight. We had them pulled out onto the shore. Our recovering members are slowly getting better. La Page has fallen ill. I gave him some of Scott's pills, but they didn't work. Nothing noteworthy happened with the party today. Everything is going along the same as usual, and we are counting the days until April 1st, which ties us to Fort Clatsop.
The Small Speckled Pheasant found in the Rocky Mountains, and differ from the large black and white pheasant only in point of Size, and Somewhat in colour. it is scercely half the Size of the other; assosiates in much larger flocks and is also very gentle. the black is more predominate and the dark brown feathers less frequent in this than the larger Species. the mixture of white is also more general on every part of this bird. it is considerably Smaller than our Pheasant and the body reather more round. in other particulars they differ not at all, from the large black and white Pheasant. this by way of distinction I have called the Speckled Pheasant. the flesh of both these Species of party coloured Pheasant is of a dark colour, and with the means we had of cooking them were only tolerably flavoured tho these birds would be fine well cooked.
The Small Speckled Pheasant found in the Rocky Mountains differs from the large black and white pheasant mainly in size and somewhat in color. It is barely half the size of the other; it lives in much larger flocks and is also very gentle. The black is more dominant, and the dark brown feathers are less common in this species than in the larger one. The mixture of white is also more prominent on every part of this bird. It is considerably smaller than our Pheasant, and its body is a bit rounder. In all other respects, they are identical to the large black and white Pheasant. For differentiation, I have called it the Speckled Pheasant. The flesh of both these species of party-colored Pheasant is dark, and given our cooking methods, they were only moderately flavored, though these birds would be excellent if cooked properly.
The small Brown Pheasant is an inhabitant of the Same Country and is of the Size and Shape of the Speckled Pheasant, which it also resembles in it's economy and habits, the Stripe above the eye in this Species is scercely preceptable and is when closely examined of a yellow or orrange colour in Sted of the vermillion of the others. it's colour is of a uniform mixture of dark and yellowish brown with a Slight mixture of brownish white on the breast belley and the feathers under the tail. the whole Compound is not unlike that of the Common quaile only darker. this is also booted to the toes. the flesh is tolerable and that of the breast is as white as the Pheasant of the atlantic coast. the redish brown Pheasant has been previously discribed.-.
The small Brown Pheasant lives in the same country and is about the same size and shape as the Speckled Pheasant, which it also resembles in its behavior and habits. The stripe above the eye in this species is hardly noticeable and is, when closely examined, a yellow or orange color instead of the vermilion found in the others. Its coloring consists of a uniform mix of dark and yellowish brown with a slight mixture of brownish-white on the breast, belly, and feathers under the tail. Overall, it looks somewhat like the Common Quail, just darker. It also has feathers that extend to the toes. The meat is decent, and the breast meat is as white as that of the Pheasant found on the Atlantic coast. The reddish-brown Pheasant has been described previously.
The Crow Ravin and large Blackbird are the Same as those of our Country, only that the Crow here is much Smaller, yet its note is the Same. I observe no difference between the Hawk of this Coast and those of the Atlantic. I have observed the large brown Hawk, the Small or Sparrow hawk, and a hawk of an intermediate Size with a long tail and blewish coloured wings, remarkably Swift in flight and very ferce. Sometimes called in the Un. States the hen Hawk. those birds Seam to be common to every part of this Country in greater or smaller numbers, and the Hawks, Crows, and ravins build their nests in great numbers along the high & inaxcessable clifts of the Columbia, and Lewis's rivers when we passd along them. we also met with the large hooting Owl under the Rocky mountains on the Kooskooske R. it's Colour reather deeper than with us, but differ in no other respect from those of the U States.
The Crow, Raven, and large Blackbird are the same as those in our country, except that the Crow here is much smaller, though its call is the same. I see no difference between the Hawk along this coast and those in the Atlantic. I have seen the large brown Hawk, the Small or Sparrow Hawk, and a hawk of an intermediate size with a long tail and bluish-colored wings, which is remarkably swift in flight and very fierce. Sometimes it's called the hen Hawk in the United States. These birds seem to be common in every part of this country in varying numbers, and the Hawks, Crows, and Ravens build their nests in large quantities along the high and inaccessible cliffs of the Columbia and Lewis's rivers as we traveled along them. We also encountered the large hooting Owl under the Rocky Mountains on the Kooskooske River. Its color is somewhat deeper than those we have, but otherwise, it differs in no respect from those in the United States.
[Lewis, March 4, 1806]
Tuesday March 4th 1806. Not any occurrence today worthy of notice. we live sumptuously on our wappetoe and Sturgeon. the Anchovey is so delicate that they soon become tainted unless pickled or smoked. the natives run a small stick through their gills and hang them in the smoke of their lodges, or kindle a small fire under them for the purpose of drying them. they need no previous preperation of guting &c and will cure in 24 hours. the natives do not appear to be very scrupelous about eating them when a little feated.—the fresh sturgeon they keep for many days by immersing it in water. they coock their sturgeon by means of vapor or steam. the process is as follows. a brisk fire is kindled on which a parcel of stones are lad. when the fire birns down and the stones are sufficiently heated, the stones are so arranged as to form a tolerable level surface, the sturgeon which had been previously cut into large fletches is now laid on the hot stones; a parsel of small boughs of bushes is next laid on and a second course of the sturgeon thus repating alternate layers of sturgeon and boughs untill the whole is put on which they design to cook. it is next covered closely with matts and water is poared in such manner as to run in among the hot stones and the vapor arrising being confined by the mats, cooks the fish. the whole process is performed in an hour, and the sturgeon thus cooked is much better than either boiled or roasted.
Tuesday, March 4th, 1806. Nothing noteworthy happened today. We're feasting on our wappetoe and sturgeon. The anchovies are so delicate that they spoil quickly unless they're pickled or smoked. The locals run a small stick through their gills and hang them in the smoke of their lodges, or start a small fire underneath to dry them out. They don’t need to be cleaned beforehand and will cure in 24 hours. The natives don’t seem to mind eating them even when they’re a bit off. They keep fresh sturgeon for several days by soaking it in water. They cook their sturgeon using steam. Here’s how: a strong fire is lit, on which a pile of stones is placed. Once the fire burns down and the stones are heated enough, they create a level surface with the stones. The sturgeon, cut into large pieces, is laid on the hot stones; then, a bunch of small branches is placed on top, followed by another layer of sturgeon, repeating this process until all the fish they plan to cook is stacked. It’s then tightly covered with mats, and water is poured in such a way that it trickles between the hot stones. The steam generated is trapped by the mats, cooking the fish. The entire process takes about an hour, and the sturgeon cooked this way tastes much better than boiled or roasted.
The turtle dove and robbin are the same of our country and are found as well in the plain as open country. the Columbian robbin heretofore discribed seems to be the inhabitant of the woody country exclusively. the Magpy is most commonly found in the open country and are the same with those formerly discribed on the Missouri. the large woodpecker or log cock, the lark woodpeckers and the small white woodpecker with a read head are the same with those of the Atlantic states and are found exclusively in the timbered country. The blue crested Corvus and the small white breasted do have been previously discribed and are the natives of a piney country invariably, being found as well on the rocky mountains as on this coast.—the lark is found in the plains only and are the same with those before mentioned on the Missouri, and not very unlike what is called in Virginia the old field lark.—The large bluefish brown or sandhill Crain are found in the valley of the Rocky mountains in Summer and Autumn where they raise their young, and in the winter and begining of spring on this river below tidewater and on this coast. they are the same as those common to the Southern and Western States where they are most generally known by the name of the Sandhill crain. The vulture has also been discribed. there are two species of the flycatch, a small redish brown species with a short tail, round body, short neck and short pointed beak. they have some fine black specks intermixed with the uniform redish brown. this the same with that which remains all winter in Virginia where it is sometimes called the wren. the second species has lately returned and dose not remain here all winter. it's colours are a yellowish brown on the back head neck wings and tail the breast and belley of a yellowish white; the tail is in proportion as the wren but it is a size smaller than that bird. it's beak is streight pointed convex reather lage at the base and the chaps of equal length. the first species is the smallest, in short it is the smalest bird that I have ever seen in America except the humming bird. both these species are found in the woody country only or at least I have never seen them elsewhere.
The turtle dove and robin are common in our country and can be found both in the plains and open areas. The Columbian robin described earlier seems to live exclusively in wooded areas. The magpie is typically found in open regions and is the same as those previously described in Missouri. The large woodpecker, also known as the log cock, the lark woodpeckers, and the small white woodpecker with a red head are all similar to those found in the Atlantic states and are found only in wooded areas. The blue-crested corvus and the small white-breasted corvus, which have been mentioned before, are native to pine areas, found both in the Rocky Mountains and along this coast. The lark is found only in the plains and is the same as those mentioned earlier in Missouri, and not very different from what is referred to in Virginia as the old field lark. The large bluefish brown or sandhill crane can be found in the Rocky Mountain valleys during summer and autumn, where they raise their young, and in winter and early spring along this river below tidewater and on this coast. They are the same as those commonly found in the Southern and Western states, where they are mostly known as the sandhill crane. The vulture has also been described. There are two species of flycatchers: a small reddish-brown species with a short tail, round body, short neck, and pointed beak. They have fine black specks mixed in with their uniform reddish-brown color. This is the same bird that stays in Virginia all winter, sometimes called the wren. The second species has recently returned and does not stay here all winter. Its colors are yellowish-brown on the back, head, neck, wings, and tail, with a yellowish-white breast and belly; the tail is similar in proportion to the wren but is slightly smaller. Its beak is straight, pointed, convex, fairly large at the base, and the jaws are equal in length. The first species is the smallest; in fact, it's the tiniest bird I have ever seen in America, except for the hummingbird. Both of these species are found only in wooded areas, or at least I have never seen them anywhere else.
[Clark, March 4, 1806]
Tuesday March 4th 1806 Not any accurrance to day worthy of notice. we live Sumptiously on our wappatoe and Sturgeon. the Anchovey is so delicate that they Soon become tainted unless pickled or Smoked. the nativs run a Small Stick through their gills and hang them in the Smoke of their Lodges, or Kindle Small fires under them for the purpose of drying them. they need no previous preperation of gutting &c. and will Cure in 24 hours. the nativs do not appear to be very Scrupilous about eating them a little feated.
Tuesday, March 4th, 1806 Nothing special happened today. We feast on our wapato and sturgeon. The anchovies are so delicate that they quickly spoil unless they're pickled or smoked. The natives run a small stick through their gills and hang them in the smoke from their lodges, or they kindle small fires beneath them to dry them out. They don’t need any prior preparation like gutting, and they'll be cured in 24 hours. The natives don't seem to mind eating them a little bit spoiled.
the fresh sturgeon they Keep maney days by immersing it in water. they Cook their Sturgeon by means of vapor or Steam. the process is as follows. a brisk fire is kindled on which a parcel of Stones are Sufficiently heated, the Stones are So arranged as to form a tolerable leavel Surface, the Sturgeon which had been previously cut into large flaetches is now laid on the hot Stones; a parcel of Small boughs of bushes is next laid on, and a Second course of the Sturgeon thus repeating alternate layers of Sturgeon & boughs untill the whole is put on which they design to Cook. it is next covered closely with mats and water is poared in Such manner as to run in among the hot Stones, and the vapor arriseing being confind by the mats, cooks the fish. the whole process is performd in an hour and the Sturgeon thus Cooked is much better than either boiled or roasted. in their usial way of bolting of other fish in baskets with hot Stones is not so good.
They keep fresh sturgeon for several days by soaking it in water. They cook their sturgeon using steam. The process is as follows: a strong fire is lit, and a pile of stones is heated sufficiently. The stones are arranged to create a fairly level surface. The sturgeon, which has been cut into large pieces, is placed on the hot stones. Then, a bunch of small branches is laid on top, followed by another layer of sturgeon, repeating the alternating layers of sturgeon and branches until everything they plan to cook is stacked. It is then covered tightly with mats, and water is poured in such a way that it runs among the hot stones, creating steam that is trapped by the mats, cooking the fish. The entire process takes about an hour, and the cooked sturgeon is much better than either boiled or roasted. Their usual method of cooking other fish in baskets with hot stones is not as good.
The turtle doves and robin are the Same of those of our countrey and are found as well as the plains as open countrey. the Columbia robin heretofore discribed Seams to be the inhabitent of the woody Country exclusively. the magpye is most commonly found in the open Country and are the Same with those formerly discribed on the Missouri.
The turtle doves and robins are the same as those in our country and are found in both the plains and open areas. The Columbia robin described earlier seems to exclusively live in wooded areas. The magpie is most often found in open country and is the same as those previously described in Missouri.
The large wood pecker or log cock the lark woodpecker and the common wood pecker with a red head are the Same with those of the Atlantic States, and are found exclusively in the timbered Country. The Blue crested Corvus and the Small white brested corvus are the nativs of a piney country invariably, being found as well on the Rocky Mountains as on this coast-. The lark is found in the plains only and are the Same with those on the Missouri and the Illinois and not unlike what is Called in Virginia the old field Lark.
The large woodpecker, or log cock, the lark woodpecker, and the common woodpecker with a red head are the same as those found in the Atlantic States and are only found in wooded areas. The blue-crested crow and the small white-breasted crow are natives of a piney area, being found on both the Rocky Mountains and this coast. The lark is only found in the plains and is the same as those in Missouri and Illinois, and it resembles what is referred to in Virginia as the old field lark.
The large bluish brown or Sandhill Crain are found in the Vally's of the Rocky Mountain in Summer and autumn when they raise their young and in the winter and beginning of Spring on this river below tide water and on this coast. they are the Same as those Common to the Southern and Western States where they are most generally known by the name of the Sand hill Crain. The Vulture has already been discribed.
The large bluish-brown Sandhill Crane can be found in the valleys of the Rocky Mountains during the summer and autumn when they raise their young. In the winter and early spring, they inhabit this river below the tidewater and along this coast. They are the same as those commonly found in the southern and western states, where they are generally known as the Sandhill Crane. The vulture has already been described.
There are two Species of fly Catch, a Small redish brown with a Short tail, round body, Short neck, and Short pointed beak, and the Same as that with us sometimes called the Wren. the 2d Species does not remain all winter they have just returned and are of a Yellowish brown Colour.
There are two types of flycatchers: a small reddish-brown one with a short tail, round body, short neck, and short pointed beak, similar to what we sometimes call the wren. The second type doesn't stay all winter; they have just returned and are a yellowish-brown color.
[Lewis, March 5, 1806]
Wednesday March 5th 1806. This morning we were visited by two parties of Clatsops. they brought some fish a hat and some skins for sale most of which we purchased. they returned to their village in the evening. late in the evening the hunters returned from the kil-haw-a-nack-kle River which discharges itself into the head of the bay. They had neither killed nor seen any Elk. they informed us that the Elk had all gone off to the mountains a considerable distance from us. this is unwelcome information and reather allarming we have only 2 days provision on hand, and that nearly spoiled. we made up a small assortment of articles to trade with the Indians and directed Sergt. Pryor to set out early in the morning in a canoe with 2 men, to ascend the Columbia to the resort of the Indian fishermen and purchase some fish; we also directed two parties of hunters to renew the Chase tomorrow early. the one up the Netul and the other towards Point Adams. if we find that the Elk have left us, we have determined to ascend the river slowly and indeavour to procure subsistence on the way, consuming the Month of March in the woody country. earlyer than April we conceive it a folly to attempt the open plains where we know there is no fuel except a few small dry shrubs. we shall not leave our quarters at fort Clatsop untill the first of April, as we intended unless the want of subsistence compels us to that measure. The common snipe of the marshes and the small sand snipe are the same of those common to the Atlantic Coast tho the former are by no means as abundant here. the prarrow of the woody country is also similar to ours but not abundant. those of the plains of Columbia are the same with those of the Missouri, tho they are by no means so abundant. I have not seen the little singing lark or the large brown Curloo so common to the plains of the Missouri, but I beleive that the latter is an inhabitant of this country during summer from Indian information. I have no doubt but what many species of birds found here in Autumn and Summer had departed before our arrival.
Wednesday, March 5th, 1806. This morning, we were visited by two groups of Clatsops. They brought some fish, a hat, and some skins to trade, most of which we purchased. They returned to their village in the evening. Later that evening, the hunters came back from the Kil-haw-a-nack-kle River, which flows into the head of the bay. They had neither killed nor seen any elk. They informed us that all the elk had moved to the mountains, a good distance away. This is disappointing and rather concerning; we only have two days' worth of provisions left, and it's nearly spoiled. We put together a small assortment of items to trade with the Indians and instructed Sergeant Pryor to leave early in the morning in a canoe with two men to go up the Columbia to the Indian fishermen's spot and buy some fish. We also told two groups of hunters to restart the chase early tomorrow—one group heading up the Netul and the other towards Point Adams. If we find that the elk have left us, we've decided to slowly move up the river and try to find food along the way, spending the month of March in the wooded areas. We believe it would be foolish to attempt the open plains before April since we know there isn't much fuel there apart from a few small dry shrubs. We won't leave our quarters at Fort Clatsop until April 1st as planned unless we're forced to due to lack of food. The common snipe of the marshes and the small sand snipe are the same as those found on the Atlantic Coast, although the former are not as plentiful here. The sparrow of the wooded areas is also similar to ours but not very abundant. Those on the Columbia plains are the same as those in Missouri, though they are definitely not as numerous. I haven't seen the little singing lark or the large brown curlew that are so common in the Missouri plains, but I believe the latter stays here in the summer according to the Indians. I have no doubt that many species of birds found here in the autumn and summer had already left before we arrived.
[Clark, March 5, 1806]
Wednesday March 5th 1806. This morning we were visited by two parties of Clatsops they brought Some fish, a hat and Some Skins for Sale most of which we purchased, they returned to their Village in the evening with the returning tide. late in the evening the Hunters returned from the Kil-haw-d nack-kle River which discharges itself into the head of the Bay. They had neither killed nor Seen any Elk. they informed us that the Elk had all gorn off to the mountains a considerable distance from us. this is unwelcom information and reather alarming. we have only two days provisions on hand and that nearly Spoiled. we made up a Small assortment of Articles to trade with the Indians, and directed Sergt Natl. Pryor to Set out early in the morning in a canoe with two men, to assend the Columbia to the resort of the Indians fishermen and purchase Some fish; we also derected two parties of hunters to renew the chase tomorrow early. the one up the Netul, and the other towards point Adams. If we find that the Elk have left us, we have determined to assend the river slowly and endeaver to precure Subsistance on the way, Consumeing the month of March in the woody Country, earlyer than april we conceive it a folly to attempt the Open plains where we know there is no fuel except a fiew Small dry Shrubs. we Shall not leave our quarters at Fort Clatsop untill the 1st of April as we intended, unless the want of Subsistance compels us to that measure.
Wednesday, March 5, 1806. This morning, we were visited by two groups of Clatsops. They brought some fish, a hat, and some skins for sale, most of which we bought. They returned to their village in the evening with the incoming tide. Late in the evening, the hunters came back from the Kil-haw-d nack-kle River, which flows into the head of the bay. They had neither killed nor seen any elk. They informed us that the elk had all gone off to the mountains, quite a distance from us. This is unwelcome news and quite alarming. We have only two days' worth of provisions left, and it's nearly spoiled. We gathered a small selection of items to trade with the Indians and instructed Sgt. Natl. Pryor to set out early in the morning in a canoe with two men to go up the Columbia River to the fishing area of the Indians and buy some fish. We also directed two groups of hunters to continue the hunt early tomorrow—one group up the Netul River, and the other towards Point Adams. If we find that the elk have left us, we’ve decided to slowly head up the river and try to get food along the way, spending March in the wooded area. We think it's pointless to attempt the open plains in April, where we know there is hardly any fuel except a few small dry shrubs. We won’t leave our quarters at Fort Clatsop until April 1st, as we planned, unless the lack of food forces us to do so.
The common Snipe of the marshes and the Small sand snipe are the same of those Common to the atlantic coast tho the former are by no means as abundant here.
The common snipe found in marshes and the small sand snipe are the same as those commonly seen along the Atlantic coast, although the common snipe is definitely not as abundant here.
The Sparrow of the woody country is also Similar to ours but not abundant. those of the plains of Columbia are the Same with those of the Missouri. tho they are by no means So Abundant. I have not Seen the little Singing lark or the large brown Curloe So Common to the Plains of the Missouri. but believe the Curloe is an inhabitent of this Countrey dureing Summer from Indian information and their attemps to mimick the notes of this fowl. I have no doubt but what maney Species of birds found here in autumn and Summer had departed before our arrival.
The sparrow in the wooded areas is similar to ours but not very common. The ones in the plains of Columbia are the same as those in Missouri, though they are definitely not as plentiful. I haven't seen the little singing lark or the large brown curlew, which are so common in the plains of Missouri, but I believe the curlew is a summer inhabitant of this area based on information from Native Americans and their attempts to mimic the bird's calls. I'm sure many species of birds that are here in autumn and summer had already left before we arrived.
The Aquatic Birds of this country or such as obtain their Subsistence from the water, are the large blue and brown heron, fishing Hawk, blue crested fisher, Gulls of Several Species of the Coast, the large grey Gull of the Columbia, Comorant, loons of two Species, white and the brown brant, Small and large Geese, small and large Swans, the Duckinmallard, canvis back Duck, red headed fishing Duck, black and white duck, little brown Duck, Black Duck, two Species of Divers, blue winged teal, 14 and Some other Species of Ducks, two Species of Plevers.
The aquatic birds of this country, or those that rely on water for food, include the large blue and brown heron, the fishing hawk, the blue-crested fisher, various species of gulls along the coast, the large gray gull from the Columbia, cormorants, two species of loons, white and brown brants, small and large geese, small and large swans, the mallard duck, canvasback duck, red-headed fishing duck, black and white duck, little brown duck, black duck, two species of divers, blue-winged teal, and some other species of ducks, along with two species of plovers.
The hunters who were out last informed me that they discovered a very Considerable fall in the Kit-haw-a-nack-kle River on its main western fork at which place it falls abt. 100 feet from the Side of a mountain S. E. about 6 miles from Fort Clatsop and nearly 15 from its enterance into the bay by the Meanderings of this river a high mountain is Situated S 60° W. about 18 miles from Fort Clatsop on which there has been Snow Since Nov.
The hunters who were out recently told me that they found a significant waterfall on the Kit-haw-a-nack-kle River's main western fork, where it drops about 100 feet from the side of a mountain to the southeast, around 6 miles from Fort Clatsop and nearly 15 miles from where it enters the bay. Following the twists of the river, a tall mountain is located to the southwest at about 60°, roughly 18 miles from Fort Clatsop, and it has had snow since November.
[Lewis, March 6, 1806]
Thursday March 6th 1806. This morning the fishing and hunting parties set out agreeably to their instructions given them last evening. at 11 A.M. we were visited by Comowoll and two of his children. he presented us with some Anchovies which had been well cured in their manner. we foud them excellent. they were very acceptable particularly at this moment. we gave the old man some small articles in return. this we have found much the most friendly and decent savage that we have met with in this neighbourhood. Hall had his foot and ankle much injured yesterday by the fall of a large stick of timber; the bones were fortunately not broken and I expect he will be able to walk again shortly. Bratton is now weaker than any of the convalessants, all of whom recover slowly in consequence of the want of proper diet, which we have it not in our power to procure.-
Thursday, March 6, 1806. This morning, the fishing and hunting groups set out according to the instructions given to them last night. At 11 A.M., we were visited by Comowoll and two of his children. He brought us some anchovies that had been well cured in their way. We found them excellent and they were especially welcome at this moment. We gave the old man some small items in return. We have found him to be the friendliest and most decent native we’ve encountered in this area. Hall had his foot and ankle injured yesterday due to the fall of a large piece of timber; fortunately, the bones weren’t broken, and I expect he will be able to walk again soon. Bratton is now weaker than any of the others recovering, all of whom are getting better slowly due to a lack of proper food, which we can’t procure.
The Aquatic birds of this country, or such as obtain their subsistence from the water, are the large blue and brown heron, fishing hawk, blue crested fisher, gulls of several species of the Coast, the large grey gull of the Columbia, Cormorant, loons of two species, white, and the brown brant, small and large geese, small and large Swan, the Duckinmallard, canvis back duck, red headed fishing duck, black and white duck, little brown duck, black duck, two speceis of divers, blue winged teal, and some other speceis of ducks.
The aquatic birds of this country, or those that get their food from the water, include the large blue and brown heron, the fishing hawk, the blue-crested fisher, various species of gulls along the coast, the large gray gull of the Columbia, cormorants, two types of loons, white and brown brants, small and large geese, small and large swans, the mallard duck, canvasback duck, red-headed fishing duck, black and white duck, little brown duck, black duck, two species of divers, blue-winged teal, and some other species of ducks.
[Clark, March 6, 1806]
Thursday March 6th 1806 This morning, the fishing and hunting party's Set out agreeably to their instructions given them last evening. At 11 a.m. we were visited by Commowoll and two boys Sons of his. he presented us with Some Anchovies which had been well Cured in their manner, we found them excellent. they were very acceptable perticularly at this moment. we gave the old mans Sones a twisted wire to ware about his neck, and I gave him a par of old glovs which he was much pleased with. this we have found much the most friendly and decent Indian that we have met with in this neighbourhood.
Thursday, March 6th, 1806 This morning, the fishing and hunting party set out according to the instructions they received last evening. At 11 a.m., we were visited by Commowoll and two of his sons. He gave us some anchovies that had been well cured in their way, and we found them excellent. They were especially welcome at this moment. We gave the old man's sons a twisted wire to wear around their necks, and I gave one of them a pair of old gloves, which he was very pleased with. We have found him to be the most friendly and decent Indian we have met in this area.
Hall had his foot and ankle much injured yesterday by the fall of a log which he had on his Sholder; the bones are fortunately not broken, I expect he will be able to walk again Shortly. Bratten is now weaker than any of the convalessants, and complains verry much of his back, all of them recovering Slowly in consequence of the want of proper diet, which we have it not in our power to precure.
Hall seriously injured his foot and ankle yesterday when a log fell on him while he was carrying it on his shoulder; thankfully, the bones aren't broken, and I expect he'll be able to walk again soon. Bratten is now weaker than any of the others recovering and complains a lot about his back; all of them are recovering slowly due to the lack of proper diet, which we cannot provide.
The large Blue and brown Herons or crains as they are usialy called in the U States are found below tide water. they are the Same of those of the U, States. The Fishing Hawk with the Crown of the head white, and back of a milkey white, and the blue crested or king fisher are found on every part of the Columbia and its water Along which we passed and are the Same with those of the U, States. the fishing hawk is not abundant, particularly in the mountains. There are 4 Species of the larus or gull on this coast and river. 1st a Small Species the Size of a Pegion; white except some black spots about the head and the little bone on the but of the wing. 2d a Species Somewhat larger of a light brown colour, with a mealy coloured back. 3rd the large Grey Gull, or white larus with a greyish brown back, and light grey belly and breast, about the Size of a well grown pullet, the wings are remarkably long in perpotion to the Size of the body and it's under chap towards the extremity is gibbous and protuberant than in either of the other Species. a White Gull about the Size of the Second with a remarkable beak; adjoining the head and on the base of the upper Chap there is an elivated orning of the Same Substance with the beak which forms the nostriels at A; it is Somewhat in this form. the feet are webed and the legs and feet of a yellow colour. the form of the wings body &c are much that of the 2d Species this bird was Seen on Haleys bay.
The large blue and brown herons, or cranes as they are usually called in the U.S., are found below tidewater. They are the same as those in the U.S. The fishing hawk, which has a white crown and a creamy white back, along with the blue crested kingfisher, can be found throughout the Columbia River and its waters, which we passed. They are the same as those in the U.S. The fishing hawk is not very common, especially in the mountains. There are four species of gulls (Larus) along this coast and river. First, a small species about the size of a pigeon; it's white except for some black spots on the head and a little bone on the tip of the wing. Second, a species somewhat larger with a light brown color and a mealy back. Third, the large grey gull, or white larus, with a greyish-brown back and light grey belly and breast, about the size of a well-grown pullet. Its wings are remarkably long in proportion to the body size, and its lower jaw at the tip is bulbous and more protruding than in the other species. A white gull, about the size of the second species, has a distinctive beak; at the base of the upper jaw near the head, there’s an elevated horn made of the same material as the beak, which forms the nostrils at point A; it's somewhat shaped like this. The feet are webbed, and the legs and feet are yellow. The shape of the wings and body is quite similar to that of the second species. This bird was seen on Haleys Bay.
The large Grey Gull is found on the Columbian waters as high as the enterence of the Koos koos ke and in common with the other Species on the coast; the others appear confined to the tidewater, and the 4th Species not So common as either of the others. The Comorant is a large black duck which feeds on fish; I proceive no difference between it & these found in the rivers of the Atlantic Coasts. we met with as high up the river as the enterance of the Chopunnish into the Kooskooske river. they increased in numbers as we decended, and formed much the Greatest portion of waterfowls which we saw on the Columbia untill we reached tidewater, where they also abound but do not bear a Similar proportion to the fowls found in this quarter. we found this bird fat and tolerably flavoured as we decended the Columbia.
The large Grey Gull is found in the waters of the Columbia River as far up as the entrance of the Kooskooske River, and like other species along the coast, the others seem to be limited to the tidewater. The fourth species isn’t as common as the others. The Comorant is a large black duck that feeds on fish; I don't see any difference between it and those found in the rivers of the Atlantic coast. We encountered them as far up the river as the entrance of the Chopunnish into the Kooskooske River. Their numbers increased as we went downriver, making up the majority of the waterfowl we saw on the Columbia until we reached the tidewater, where they were also abundant but didn't make up a similar proportion compared to the birds found in that area. We found this bird to be fatty and reasonably flavored as we descended the Columbia.
[Lewis, March 7, 1806]
Friday March 7th 1806. The wind was so high that Comowol did not leave us untill late this evening. Labuish and Drewyer returned at sunset having killed one Elk only. they report that there are some scattering male Elk in the neighbourhood of the place they killed this one or about 5 miles up the Netul on this side.—Bratton is much wose today, he complains of a violent pain in the small of his back and is unable in consequence to set up. we gave him one of our flanel shirts, applyed a bandage of flannel to the part and bathed and rubed it well with some vollatile linniment which I prepared with sperits of wine, camphor, castile soap and a little laudinum. he felt himself better in the evening.—the large blue and brown herons, or Crams as they are usually called in the U States are found on this river below tidewater. they are the same with those of the U States. the fishing hawk with the crown of the head White and back of a mealy white, and the blue crested or King fisher are found on every part of the Columbia and it's waters and are the same with those of the U States. the fishing hawk is not abundant particularly in the mountains. there are four speceis of larus or gull on this coast and river, 1st a small speceis about the size of a pigeon; white except some black spots about the head and a little brown on the but of the wings, 2nd a speceis somewhat larger of a light brown colour with a whitish or mealy coloured back. 3rd the large grey gull, or white larus with a greyish brown back and a light grey belley and breast, about the size of a well grown pullet or reather larger. the wings are remarkably long in proportion to the size of the body and it's under chap towards the extremity is more gibbous and protuberant than in either of the other speceis. 4th a white gull about the size of the second with a remarkable beak; adjoining the head and at the base of the uper Chap there is an elivated orning of the same substance with the beak which forms the nostrils; it is some what in this forma the feet are webbed and the legs and feet of a yellow colour. the form of the wings body &c are much that of the second species. the large grey gull is found on the river as high as the entrance of the Kooskooske and in common with the other speceis on the coast; the others appear to be confined to tidewater; and the fourth speceis not so common as either of the others. the cormorant is a large black duck which feeds on fish; I perceive no difference between it and those found in the Potomac and other rivers on the Atlantic Coast. tho I do not recollect seeing those on the atlantic so high up the rivers as those are found here. we first met with them on the Kooskooske at the entrance of Chopunnish river. they increased in quantity as we decended, and formed much the greatest portion of the waterfowl which we saw on the Columbia untill we reached tidewater where they also abound but do not bear a similar proportion to the other fowls found in this quarter.
Friday, March 7th, 1806. The wind was so strong that Comowol didn’t leave us until late this evening. Labuish and Drewyer returned at sunset having only killed one elk. They report that there are some scattered male elk in the area where they killed this one or about five miles up the Netul on this side. Bratton is feeling much worse today; he complains of a severe pain in his lower back and is therefore unable to sit up. We gave him one of our flannel shirts, applied a bandage of flannel to the area, and bathed and rubbed it well with some volatile liniment I prepared with spirits of wine, camphor, castile soap, and a little laudanum. He felt better in the evening. The large blue and brown herons, or "cranes" as they are usually called in the U.S., are found on this river below the tidewater. They are the same as those in the U.S. The fishing hawk, which has a white crown and a back that is mealy white, and the blue-crested kingfisher are found throughout the Columbia and its waters, similar to those in the U.S. The fishing hawk isn’t abundant, especially in the mountains. There are four species of gulls (larus) on this coast and river: the first is a small species about the size of a pigeon; white with some black spots on its head and a little brown on the tips of its wings. The second is somewhat larger, light brown in color with a whitish or mealy-colored back. The third is the large grey gull or white larus, with a greyish-brown back and a light grey belly and breast, about the size of a well-grown pullet or even larger. Its wings are remarkably long in proportion to its body size, and its lower jaw towards the tip is more rounded and protruding than in either of the other species. The fourth is a white gull about the size of the second with a distinctive beak; next to its head and at the base of its upper jaw, there is an elevated horn made of the same substance as the beak, forming the nostrils. The feet are webbed and the legs and feet are yellow. The shape of the wings and body are similar to the second species. The large grey gull can be found on the river as far upstream as the entrance to the Kooskooske and, like the other species, along the coast; the others seem to be limited to the tidewater, and the fourth species is less common than the other two. The cormorant is a large black duck that feeds on fish; I see no difference between it and those found in the Potomac and other rivers on the Atlantic coast, although I don’t recall seeing those on the Atlantic as far up the rivers as these are found here. We first encountered them on the Kooskooske at the entrance of the Chopunnish River. Their numbers increased as we descended and they made up the majority of the waterfowl we saw on the Columbia until we reached tidewater, where they also abound but don’t make up a similar proportion to the other birds found in this area.
There are two speceis of loons. 1st the Speckled loon found on every part of the rivers of this country. they are the same size colours and form with those of the Atlantic coast. the second speceis we first met with at the great falls of the Columbia and from thence down. this bird is not more than half the size of the speckled loon, it's neck is long, slender and white in front. the Colour of the body and back of the neck and head are of a dun or ash colour, the breast and belley are white. the beak is like that of the speckled loon and like them it cannot fly but flutters along on the top of the warter or dives for security when pursued.
There are two species of loons. First, the Speckled loon, found throughout the rivers of this country. They are the same size, color, and shape as those on the Atlantic coast. The second species was first encountered at the Great Falls of the Columbia and then further downstream. This bird is only about half the size of the Speckled loon; its neck is long, slender, and white in front. The color of the body, and the back of the neck and head, is a brown or ash color, while the breast and belly are white. The beak is similar to that of the Speckled loon and, like them, it cannot fly but flutters along the surface of the water or dives for safety when pursued.
[Clark, March 7, 1806]
Friday March 7th 1806 The wind was So high that Comowol did not leave us untill late this evening. Drewyer & Labiesh returned at Sunset haveing killed one Elk only. they report that there are Some Scattering mail Elk in the neighbourhood of the place they killed this one or about 5 miles up the Netul river on the west Side-. Bratten is much worst to day he complains of a violent pain in the Small of his back, and is unable in consequence of it to Set up. we gave him one of our flanel Shirts. I applied a bandage of flanel to the part and rubed it well with Some volatile linniment which was prepared with Sperits of wine, camphire, Sastile Soap, and a little laudinum. he felt himself better in the evening at which time I repeated the linnement and bathed his feet to restore circulation which he complaind of in that part.
Friday, March 7th, 1806 The wind was so strong that Comowol didn’t leave us until late this evening. Drewyer and Labiesh returned at sunset, having killed only one elk. They report that there are some scattered male elk in the area where they shot this one, about 5 miles up the Netul River on the west side. Bratten is feeling much worse today; he complains of a severe pain in his lower back and is unable to sit up because of it. We gave him one of our flannel shirts. I applied a flannel bandage to the area and rubbed it well with some volatile liniment made with spirits of wine, camphor, Castile soap, and a little laudanum. He said he felt better in the evening, at which time I reapplied the liniment and bathed his feet to restore circulation, which he complained was lacking in that area.
There are two Species of Loons. 1st the Speckled loon found on every part of the rivers of this quarter, they are the Same Size Colour and form with those of the Ohio, and atlantic coasts. the 2d Species we first met with at the great falls of the Columbia and from thence down. this bird is not more than half the Size of the Speckled loon, it's neck is long, Slender and white in front. the colour of the body and back of the neck and head are of a dun or ash Colour, the breast and belly are white. the back is like that of the Speckled loon, and like them it cannot fly, but flutters along on the top of the water or Dives for Security when pursued.
There are two species of loons. The first is the speckled loon, found in every part of the rivers in this region. They are the same size, color, and shape as those from the Ohio and Atlantic coasts. The second species we first encountered at the great falls of the Columbia and downriver from there. This bird is about half the size of the speckled loon, with a long, slender neck that is white in front. The body and the back of the neck and head are a brown or ash color, while the breast and belly are white. The back resembles that of the speckled loon, and like them, it cannot fly. Instead, it flutters along the surface of the water or dives for safety when threatened.
John Shields Reubin Fields & Robert frasure measured 2 trees of the fur kind one 37 feet around, appears sound, has but fiew limbs for 200 feet it is East of the Netul abt 280 feet high.
John Shields, Reubin Fields, and Robert Frasure measured 2 trees of the fir kind. One is 37 feet around, seems healthy, has only a few limbs, and is about 200 feet tall. It is located east of the Netul, approximately 280 feet high.
[Lewis, March 8, 1806]
Saturday March 8th 1806. Bratton is much better today, his back gives him but little pain. Collins returned early in the morning and informed us that he had killed three Elk about five miles distant on the edge of the prarie in Point Adams. one of them fell in a deep pond of water and could not get it, the other two he butcherd and secured. he saw two large herds of Elk in that quarter. we sent Drewyer and Joseph Fields to hunt those Elk. a party were also sent with Labuish for the flesh of the Elk which Drewyer and himself had killed up the netul, they returned with it in the evening. Shields, R. Fields and Frazier returned this evening from the Kilhawanackkle unsuccessfull having seen no Elk. McNeal and Goodrich having recovered from the Louis veneri I directed them to desist from the uce of mercury. The white brant is very common in this country particularly below tidewater where they remain in vast quantities during the winter. they feed like the swan gees &c on the grass roots and seeds which they find in the marshes. this bird is about the size of the brown brant or a third less than the common Canadian or wild goose. the head is proportionably with the goose reather large; the beak also thicker shorter and of much the same form, being of a yellowish white colour except the edges of the chaps, which are frequently of a dark brown. the legs and feet are of the same form of the goose and are of a redish white or pale flesh colour. the tail is composed of sixteen feathers of equal length as those of the geese and brown brant are and bears about the same proportion in point of length. the eye is of a dark colour and nothing remarkable as to size. the wings are rether longer compared with those of the goose but not as much so as in the brown or pided brant. the colour of the plumage of this bird is unifomly a pure white except the large feathers of the extremities of the wings which are black. the large feathers of the 1st joint of the wing next to the body are white. the note of this bird differs essentially from that of the goose; it more resembles that of the brown brant but is somewhat different. it is like the note of young domestic goose which has not perfectly attained it's full note. the flesh of this bird is exceedingly fine, preferable to either the goose or pided brant.—The Brown or pided brant are much the same size and form of the white only that their wings are considerably longer and more pointed. the plumage of the upper part of the body neck head and tail is much the colour of the canadian goose but reather darker in consequence of som dark brown feathers which are distributed and irregularly scattered throughout. they have not the white on the neck and sides of the head as the goose has nor is the neck darker than the body. like the goose there are some white feathers on the rump at the joining of the tail. the beak is dark and the legs and feet also dark with a greenish cast; the breast and belley are of a lighter colour than the back and is also irregularly intermixed with dark brown and black feathers which give it a pided appearance. the flesh of this bird is dark and in my estimation reather better than that of the goose. the habits of this bird are the same nearly with the goose and white brant with this difference that they do not remain in this climate in such numbers during the winter as the others, and that it sets out earlier in the fall season on it's return to the south and arrives later in the spring than the goose. I see no difference between this bird and that called simply the brant, common to the lakes the Ohio and Mississippi &c. The small goose of this country is reather less than the brant; it's head and neck like the brant are reather larger than that of the goose in proportion; their beak is also thicker and shorter. their notes are more like those of our tame gees; in all other rispects they are the same with the large goose with which, they so frequently ascociate that it was some time after I first observed this goose before I could determine whether it was a distinct speceis or not. I have now no hesitation in declaring them a distinct speceis. the large goose is the same of that common on the Atlantic coast, and known by the appellation of the wild, or Canadian goose.
Saturday, March 8, 1806. Bratton feels much better today; his back is causing him only minor pain. Collins returned early this morning and told us he had killed three elk about five miles away on the edge of the prairie in Point Adams. One of them fell into a deep pond and he couldn't retrieve it; he butchered and secured the other two. He spotted two large herds of elk in that area. We sent Drewyer and Joseph Fields to hunt those elk. A party was also sent with Labuish to collect the meat from the elk that Drewyer had killed up the Netul; they returned with it in the evening. Shields, R. Fields, and Frazier came back this evening from Kilhawanackkle unsuccessful, having seen no elk. McNeal and Goodrich, having recovered from the Louis veneri, were instructed to stop using mercury. The white brant is very common in this region, especially below tidewater, where they gather in large numbers during the winter. They feed like swan geese, eating grass roots and seeds found in the marshes. This bird is about the size of the brown brant or a third smaller than the common Canadian or wild goose. Its head is relatively large compared to the goose; the beak is thicker, shorter, and has a yellowish-white color except for the edges of the jaws, which are often dark brown. The legs and feet are similar to those of the goose and are a reddish-white or pale flesh color. The tail has sixteen feathers of equal length, similar to those of the geese and brown brant, and is about the same length. The eye is a dark color but not remarkable in size. The wings are relatively longer compared to those of the goose, though not as much as in the brown or pied brant. The plumage of this bird is uniformly pure white, except for the large feathers at the wing tips, which are black. The large feathers of the first joint of the wing next to the body are white. The call of this bird is quite different from that of the goose; it resembles the brown brant's call but is somewhat distinct. It sounds like the call of a young domestic goose that has yet to fully develop its vocalization. The meat of this bird is exceptionally fine, better than that of both the goose and pied brant. The brown or pied brant is similar in size and shape to the white brant, but with considerably longer and more pointed wings. The plumage on the upper body, neck, head, and tail is similar to the Canadian goose, but darker due to the presence of dark brown feathers scattered irregularly throughout. They lack the white feathers on the neck and sides of the head that the goose has, and the neck isn’t darker than the body. Like the goose, there are some white feathers on the rump near the tail. The beak is dark, and the legs and feet are also dark with a greenish tint; the breast and belly are lighter than the back and are irregularly mixed with dark brown and black feathers, giving it a pied appearance. The meat of this bird is dark and, in my opinion, better than that of the goose. Their behavior is quite similar to that of the goose and white brant, with the difference being that they don't stay in this climate as long during the winter as the others do, and they migrate south earlier in the fall and arrive back later in the spring than the goose. I see no difference between this bird and the one simply called the brant, common in the lakes of the Ohio and Mississippi, etc. The small goose of this region is somewhat smaller than the brant; its head and neck, like the brant’s, are proportionally larger than those of the goose; their beaks are also thicker and shorter. Their calls are more similar to those of our domestic geese; in all other respects, they are similar to the large goose with which they frequently associate, making it some time before I could determine whether it was a distinct species. I now have no doubt that they are a distinct species. The large goose is the same as the one commonly found on the Atlantic coast, known as the wild or Canadian goose.
[Clark, March 8, 1806]
Saturday March 8th 1806 Bratten is much better this morning, his back givs him but little pain. Collins returned early in the morning, and informed us that he had killed three Elk about five miles distance on the edge of the prarie in point Adams. one of them fell in a deep pond of water and he could not git to it. the other two he butchered and Saved. he saw two large herds of Elk in that quarter. we Sent Drewyer & Jos. Field to hunt these Elk, a party was also Sent with Labiesh for the flesh of the Elk which Drewyer and himself had killd up the Netul, they returned with it in the evening. Shields, R. Field and Frasure returned this evening from the Kilhawanackkle unsuccessfull haveing Seen no Elk. McNeal and Goodrich haveing recovered from the Louis veneri I detected them to desist from takeing the murcury or useing in future. willard is yet complaining and is low Spirited.
Saturday, March 8th, 1806. Bratten is feeling much better this morning; his back is giving him only a little pain. Collins came back early in the morning and told us he had killed three elk about five miles away on the edge of the prairie at Point Adams. One of them fell into a deep pond, and he couldn't get to it. He butchered and saved the other two. He saw two large herds of elk in that area. We sent Drewyer and Jos. Field to hunt these elk, and another group was sent with Labiesh for the meat from the elk that Drewyer and he had killed up at the Netul; they returned with it in the evening. Shields, R. Field, and Frasure came back this evening from Kilhawanackkle unsuccessful, having seen no elk. McNeal and Goodrich, having recovered from the venereal disease, I instructed them to stop taking the mercury and not to use it in the future. Willard is still complaining and is feeling low-spirited.
The White Brant is very common in this country particularly below tide water where they remain in vast quantities dureing the winter. they feed like the Swan Goose &c. on the grass and roots & Seeds which they find in the marshes this bird is a little larger than the brown brant and a fourth less than the common wild or Canadian goose. the head is proportionably with the goose reather large; the beak thicker Shorter and of the Same form, being of a yellowish white colour except the edges of the Chaps, which are frequently of a dark brown. the legs and feet are of the Same form of the goose and are of a redish white or pail flesh colour. the tail is composed of Sixteen feathers of equal length as those of the geese and brown brant are, and bears about the Same perpotion in point of length. the Eye is of a dark colour and nothing remarkable as to Size. the wings are reather longer compared with those of the goose, but not as much So as is the brown or pieded brant. the colour of the plumage of this bird is uniformly a pure white except the large feathers of the extremities of the wings which are black. The large feathers of the 1st joint of the wing next to the body are white. the note of this bird differs essentially from that of the goose; it more resembles that of the brown brant but is Somewhat different. it is like the note of a young domestic goose which has not perfectly attained its full note. the flesh of this bird is exceedingly fine, prefferable to either the goose or pieded brant. the neck is Shorter in prpotion than that of the goose.
The White Brant is quite common in this country, especially below tidal water, where they gather in large numbers during the winter. They feed like the Swan Goose, eating grass, roots, and seeds found in the marshes. This bird is a bit larger than the brown brant and about a quarter smaller than the common wild or Canadian goose. The head is proportionately larger than that of the goose; the beak is thicker, shorter, and has a similar shape, being a yellowish-white color except for the edges of the jaws, which are often dark brown. The legs and feet are similarly shaped to those of a goose, and they are a reddish-white or pale flesh color. The tail consists of sixteen feathers that are equal in length to those of geese and brown brants and has about the same proportion in terms of length. The eye is dark and unremarkable in size. The wings are relatively longer compared to those of the goose, but not as much so as the brown or pied brant. The plumage of this bird is uniformly pure white, except for the large feathers at the tips of the wings, which are black. The large feathers of the first joint of the wing next to the body are white. The call of this bird is quite different from that of the goose; it resembles that of the brown brant but is somewhat different. It sounds like a young domestic goose that hasn't fully developed its call. The flesh of this bird is exceptionally fine, preferable to either the goose or the pied brant. The neck is shorter in proportion than that of the goose.
The Brown or pieded brant are nearly the Size and much the Same form of the white brante only that their wings are considerably longer and more pointed. the plumage of the upper part of the body, neck, head and tail is much the Colour of the Common or Canadian Goose but rather darker in consequence of Some dark brown feathers which are distributed and irregularly scattered throughout. they have not the white on the neck and Sides of the head as the goose has nor is the neck darker than the body. like the goose there are Some white feathers on the rump at the junction of the tail. the beak, legs and feet are dark, with a greenish cast; the breast and belly are of a lighter colour than the back and is also intermixed, irregularly, with dark brown and black feathers which gives it a pieded appearance. the flesh of this bird is dark, and in my estimation reather better than that of the goose. the habits of this bird is nearly the same with the goose and white brant, with this difference that they do not remain in this Climate in Such numbers dureing the winter as the others. I See no difference between this bird and that Called Simpilly the Brant Common to the Lakes and frequently Seen on the Ohio and Mississippi in large flocks &c.
The Brown or pied brant are almost the same size and shape as the white brant, except their wings are much longer and more pointed. The feathers on their back, neck, head, and tail are similar in color to those of the Common or Canadian Goose, but a bit darker due to some dark brown feathers that are scattered throughout. Unlike the goose, they don’t have white on their neck and sides of the head, nor is their neck darker than their body. Like the goose, there are some white feathers on their rump where the tail meets the body. Their beak, legs, and feet are dark, with a greenish tint; their breast and belly are lighter than their back and are also mixed, irregularly, with dark brown and black feathers, giving them a pied appearance. The meat of this bird is dark, and in my opinion, better than that of the goose. Their habits are quite similar to those of the goose and white brant, with the difference that they don’t stay in this climate in as large numbers during the winter as the others do. I see no difference between this bird and what is simply called the Brant, which is common to the lakes and often seen in large flocks in the Ohio and Mississippi rivers, etc.
The Small Goose of this country is reather less than the Brant; it's head and neck like the brant are reather larger than that of the goose in purpotion; their beak is also thicker and Shorter. their notes are more like those of our taim geese, in all other respect they are the Same with the large Goose with which, they So frequently ascoiete, that it was Some time after I first observed this goose before I could whether it was a distinct Speces or not. I have no hesitation now in declareing them a distinct Species. the large Goose is the Same as that common to the Ohio, and atlantic coast, and known by the appellation of the wild, or Canadian Goose.
The small goose in this country is somewhat smaller than the brant; its head and neck, like the brant's, are proportionally larger than those of the goose. Its beak is also thicker and shorter. Its calls are more similar to those of our tame geese. In every other respect, it is the same as the large goose, which it often associates with. It took me some time to determine whether this goose was a distinct species or not. I have no doubt now in declaring it a distinct species. The large goose is the same as the one commonly found in the Ohio River and Atlantic coast, known as the wild or Canadian goose.
[Lewis, March 9, 1806]
Sunday March 9th 1806. This morning the men set out at daylight to go in gust of the Elk which Collins had killed, they returned with it at eleven A.M. Bratton complains of his back being very painfull to him today; I conceive this pain to be something of the rheumatism. we still apply the linniment and flannel; in the evening he was much better. Drewyer and Joseph Fields returned not having found any Elk. Sergt. Pryor and the fishing party not yet arrived, suppose they are detained by the winds. visited by 3 Clatsop men who brought a dog some fish and a Sea Otter skin for sale. we suffered them to remain all night. we set Shields at work to make some sacks of Elk skin to contain various articles. The large Swan is precisely the same common to the Atlantic States. the small swan differs only from the larger one in size and it's note. it is about one fourth less and it's note entirely different. the latter cannot be justly immetated by the sound of letters nor do I know any sounds with which a comparison would be pertinent. it begins with a kind of whistleing sound and terminates in a round full note which is reather louder than the whistleing, or former part; this note is as loud as that of the large swan. from the peculiar whistleing of the note of this bird I have called it the whistleing swan it's habits colour and contour appear to be precisely those of the large Swan. we first saw them below the great narrows of the Columbia near the Chilluckkittequaw nation. They are very abundant in this neighbourhood and have remained with us all winter. in number they are fully five for one of the large speceis. The duckinmallard or common large duck wich resembles the domestic duck are the same here with those of the U Sts. they are abundant and are found on every part of the river below the mountains. they remain here all winter but I beleive they do not continue during winter far above tidewater. a beautifull duck and one of the most delicious in the world is found in considerable quantities in this neighbourhood during the Autumn and winter. this is the same with that known in the Delliware, Susquehannah, and Potomac by the name of the Canvisback and in James River by that of shell-Drake; in the latter river; however I am informed that they have latterly almost entirely disappeared. to the epicure of those parts of the union where this duck abounds nothing need be added in praise of the exqusite flavor of this duck. I have frequently eaten of them in several parts of the Union and I think those of the Columbia equally as delicious. this duck is never found above tide-water; we did not meet with them untill after we reached the marshey Islands; and I beleive that they have already left this neighbourhood, but whether they have gone northwardly or Southwardly I am unable to determin; nor do I know in what part of the Continent they raise their young.—The read headed fishing duck is common to every part of the river and are found as well in the Rocky Mountains as elsewhere; in short this was the only duck we saw on the waters of the Columbia within the mountains. they feed principally on crawfish and are the same in every rispect as those on the rivers in the mountains of the Atlantic Ocean.
Sunday, March 9th, 1806. This morning, the men set out at dawn to retrieve the elk that Collins had killed. They returned with it at 11 A.M. Bratton complained that his back was very painful today; I suspect this pain might be some form of rheumatism. We continued to apply the liniment and flannel; by evening, he felt much better. Drewyer and Joseph Fields returned without having found any elk. Sergeant Pryor and the fishing party have not yet arrived; I assume they are delayed by the winds. We were visited by three Clatsop men who brought a dog, some fish, and a sea otter skin for sale. We allowed them to stay the night. We had Shields start working on some elk skin sacks to hold various items. The large swan is exactly like the common one found in the Atlantic states. The smaller swan differs only in size and its call. It's about one-fourth smaller, and its call is completely different. The latter cannot accurately be represented by letters, nor do I know of any sounds suitable for comparison. It starts with a whistling sound and ends with a full note that is a bit louder than the whistling part; this note is as loud as that of the large swan. Because of the distinctive whistling call of this bird, I've named it the whistling swan. Its habits, color, and shape appear to be identical to those of the large swan. We first saw them below the great narrows of the Columbia near the Chilluckkittequaw nation. They are very common in this area and have stayed with us all winter, outnumbering the larger species by about five to one. The mallard, or common large duck, which resembles the domestic duck, is the same here as those in the U.S. They are plentiful and can be found all along the river below the mountains. They stay here all winter, but I believe they don't go far above tidewater during that time. A beautiful duck, and one of the most delicious in the world, is quite common in this area during the autumn and winter. This is the same duck known in the Delaware, Susquehanna, and Potomac by the name of canvassback, and in James River as shell-drake; however, I've been informed that they have almost completely disappeared from the latter river recently. For those who enjoy this duck in parts of the Union where it's plentiful, nothing more needs to be said about its exquisite flavor. I've frequently eaten them in various locations across the Union, and I find those from the Columbia equally as delicious. This duck is never found above tidewater; we didn't encounter them until after we reached the marshy islands, and I believe they have already left this area, though I can't determine whether they moved north or south, nor do I know where they raise their young. The red-headed fishing duck is common throughout the river and can be found in the Rocky Mountains as well as elsewhere; in short, this was the only duck we saw on the waters of the Columbia within the mountains. They primarily feed on crawfish and are the same in every respect as those found in the rivers of the Atlantic Ocean.
[Clark, March 9, 1806]
Sunday Mach 9th 1806 This morning the men Set out at day light to go in quest of the Elk which Collins had killed, they returned at 11 A.M. Bratten complains of his backs being very painfull to him to day. we Still apply the linnement & flannel; in the evening he was much better. Jos. Field & Drewyer returned not haveing found any Elk. Sergt. Pryor and the fishing party not yet returned, Suppose they are detained by the winds. we are visited by 3 Clatsop men who brought a Dog, Some fish and a Sea otter Skin for Sale. we Suffered them to remain all night. we Set Shields at work to make Some Sacks of Elk Skin to contain my papers, and various articles which we wish kept Dry.
Sunday, March 9th, 1806 This morning, the men set out at dawn to search for the elk that Collins had killed. They returned at 11 A.M. Bratten complains that his back is very painful today. We continue to apply the liniment and flannel; by evening, he felt much better. Jos. Field and Drewyer returned without having found any elk. Sgt. Pryor and the fishing party have not yet returned; we assume they are held up by the winds. We were visited by three Clatsop men who brought a dog, some fish, and a sea otter skin for sale. We allowed them to stay overnight. We got Shields to work on making some sacks out of elk skin to hold my papers and various items that we want to keep dry.
The large Swan is precisely the Same Common to the Missouri, Mississippi and the Atlantic States &c. The Small Swan differ only from the large one in Size and it's note. it is about 1/4th less, and its notes entirely different. the latter cannot be justly immetated by the Sound of letters nor do I know any Sound with which a comparison would be perti-nent. it begins with a kind of whistling Sound and terminates in a round full note which is reather louder than the whistling, or former part; this note is as loud as that of the large Swan. from the peculiar whistling of the note of this bird I have Called it the Whistleing Swan. it's habits colour and contour appear to be precisely those of the large swan. we first saw them below the great narrows of the Columbia near the Chilluckkittequaw Nation. they are very abundant in this neighbourhood and have remained with us all winter. in number they are fully five for one of the large Species of the Swan's.
The large swan is exactly the same as the common swan found in the Missouri, Mississippi, and Atlantic States, etc. The small swan differs only from the large one in size and its call. It’s about 25% smaller, and its call is completely different. The sound it makes can't be accurately represented by letters, and I don’t know any sound to which it can be appropriately compared. It starts with a kind of whistling sound and ends in a full, rounded note that is somewhat louder than the whistling part; this note is as loud as that of the large swan. Because of the distinctive whistling of this bird's call, I’ve named it the Whistling Swan. Its habits, color, and shape seem to match those of the large swan exactly. We first spotted them below the great narrows of the Columbia near the Chilluckkittequaw Nation. They are very common in this area and have stayed with us all winter. There are about five of them for every one of the large species of swans.
The Duckinmallard are the Same here with those of the U, States. they are abundant and are found on every part of the river below the mountains. they remain here all winter, but I believe they do not remain all winter above tide water.—a butifull Duck and one of the most delicious in the world is found in Considerable quantities in this neighbourhood dureing the Autumn and winter. this is the Same as that known in the Dilliwar, Susquehannah and Potomac by the name of the Canvisback and James River by that of Shell-Drake; in the latter river I am informed that they have latterly almost entirely disapeared. the epicures of those parts of the Union where those Ducks abound nothing need be added in prais of the exquisit flavor of this duck. I have eaten of them in Several parts of the Union and I think those of the Columbia equally as delicious. this duck is never found above tide water; we did not meat with them untill after we reached the marshey Islands; and I believe that they have already left this neighbourhood; but whether they are gorn Northerly or Southerly, I am unable to deturmine; nor do I know in what part of the Country they rais their young
The duck mallards are the same here as in the United States. They're plentiful and found all along the river below the mountains. They stay here all winter, but I believe they don’t stick around above the tidewater. A beautiful duck that’s one of the most delicious in the world is found in considerable numbers in this area during autumn and winter. This is the same duck known in the Delaware, Susquehanna, and Potomac as the Canvasback, and in the James River as the Shell-Drake. I’ve been told that they’ve almost completely disappeared from the latter river recently. For the food lovers in those parts of the country where these ducks thrive, there's no need to say more about the exquisite flavor of this duck. I’ve eaten them in several places across the United States, and I think the ones from the Columbia are just as delicious. This duck is never found above the tidewater; we didn’t encounter them until we reached the marshy islands, and I believe they’ve already left this area. But I can’t determine if they’re heading north or south, nor do I know where in the country they raise their young.
The red headed fishing duck is common to every part of the river and are found as well in the Rocky Mountains as elsewhere; in short this was the only duck we Saw within the Mountain on the Columbian waters. they feed principally on Crawfish; and are the Same in every respects as those on the Ohio and rivers in the mountains of the atlantic Ocian.
The red-headed fishing duck is found throughout the entire river, as well as in the Rocky Mountains and other locations; in short, this was the only duck we saw in the mountains along the Columbia waters. They mainly eat crawfish and are the same in every way as those on the Ohio and rivers in the Atlantic Ocean mountains.
The black and white Duck are Small about the Size of the blue-winged teal, or reather larger. the mail is butifully varigated with black and white. the white occupies the Side of the head, breast and back. black the tail, large feathers of the wing, two tufts of feathers which cover the upper part of the wings when folded, the neck and head. the female is darker or has much less white about her. I take this to be the Same Species of duck common to the ohio, as also the atlantic Coast, and Sometimes called the butter box. the back is wide and Short, and as well as the legs of a dark Colour. the flesh of this duck is verry well flavored I think Superior to the Duckinmallard.
The black and white duck is small, about the size of a blue-winged teal, or maybe slightly larger. The male is beautifully patterned with black and white. The white covers the side of the head, breast, and back, while black features on the tail, large wing feathers, two feather tufts that cover the upper part of the wings when they’re folded, as well as the neck and head. The female is darker and has much less white on her. I believe this is the same species of duck commonly found in Ohio, as well as along the Atlantic Coast, sometimes referred to as the butter box. The back is wide and short, and its legs are dark in color. I think the flesh of this duck is very well flavored and superior to that of the mallard.
[Lewis, March 10, 1806]
Monday March 10th 1806. About 1 P.M. it became fair and we sent out two parties of hunters on this side of the Netul the one below and the other above. we also directed a party to set out early in the morning and pass the bay and hunt beyond the Kilhowanackkle. from the last we have considerable hope as we have as yet hunted but little in that quarter. it blew hard all day. in the evening the Indians departed. The hunters who were over the Netull the other day informed us that they measured a pine tree, (or fir No 1) which at the hight of a man's breast was 42 feet in the girth about three feet higher, or as high as a tall man could reach, it was 40 feet in the girth which was about the circumpherence for at least 200 feet without a limb, and that it was very lofty above the commencement of the limbs. from the appearance of other trees of this speceis of fir and their account of this tree, I think it may be safely estimated at 300 feet. it had every appearance of being perfectly sound. The black and white duck are small abut the size of the blue-winged teal, or reather larger. the male is beautifully variagated with black and white. the white occupys the sides of the head, breast and back, black, the tail feathers of the wings two tufts of feathers which cover the upper part of the wings when foalded, the neck and head. the female is darker or has much less white about her. I take this to be the same speceis of duck common to the Atlantic coast, and frequently called the butterbox. the beak is wide and short, and as well as the legs, of a dark colour. the flesh of this duck is very well flavored. the brown duck is much in form like the duckinmallard, tho not much more than half it's size. the colour is an uniform mixture of yellowish and dark brown. there is nothing remarkable in the appearance of this duck it generally resorts the same kind of grassey marshes with the duckinmallard and feeds in a similar manner, on grass seed, and roots. both these ducks are common to the river for some distance above tide water as well as below. The black duck is about the size of the bluewinged teal. their colour is a duskey black the breast and belley somewhat lighter than the other parts, or a dark brown. the legs stand longitudinally with the body, and the bird when on shore stands of cours very erect. the legs and feet are of a dark brown, the toes are four on each foot, a short one at the heel and three long toes in front, which are unconnected with a web. the webs are attatched to each sides of the several joints of the toe, and divided by deep sinuses at each joint. the web assuming in the intermediate part an eliptical figure. the beak is about two inches long, streight, flated on the sides, and tapering to a sharp point. the upper chap somewhat longest, and bears on it's base at the joining of the head, a little conic protuberance of a cartelagenous substace, being redish brown at the point. the beak is of an ivory white colour. the eye dark. these ducks usually associate in large flocks, and are very noisey; their note being a sharp shrill whistle. they are usually fat and agreeably flavored; and feed principally on moss, and other vegitable productions of the water. we did not meet with them untill we reached tide-water, but I beleive them not exclusively confined to that district at all seasons, as I have noticed the same duck on many parts of the Rivers Ohio and Mississippi. the gizzard and liver are also remarkably large in this fowl. the divers are the same with those of the Atlantic States. the smaller species has some white feathers about the rump with no perceptable tail and is very active and cluck in it's motion; the body is of a redish brown. the beak sharp and somewhat curved like that of the pheasant. the toes are not connected but webed like those discribed of the black duck. the larger speceis are about the size of the teal and can flye a short distance which the small one scarcely ever attapts. they have a short tail. their colour is also an uniform brickredish brown, the beak is streight and pointed. the feet are of the same form of the other speceis and the legs are remarkably thin and flat one edge being in front. the food of both speceis is fish, and the flesh unfit for uce. the bluewinged teal are a very excellent duck, and are the same with those of the Atlantic coast.—There are some other speceis of ducks which shall be hereafter discribed as I may hereafter have an opportunity to examine them.
Monday, March 10, 1806. Around 1 PM, the weather cleared up and we sent out two groups of hunters on this side of the Netul, one downstream and the other upstream. We also organized a group to leave early in the morning to cross the bay and hunt beyond the Kilhowanackkle. We have high hopes for this last group since we haven't done much hunting in that area yet. It was very windy all day. In the evening, the Indians left. The hunters who were across the Netul a few days ago told us they measured a pine tree (or fir No 1) that had a girth of 42 feet at a man's breast height. About three feet higher, at the tallest a man could reach, it measured 40 feet around, and it had a straight trunk for at least 200 feet without any limbs. It looked very tall above where the limbs began. Based on the appearance of other trees of this type and their description of this tree, I think it can be safely estimated to be 300 feet tall. It seemed completely sound. The black and white duck is small, about the size of the blue-winged teal, or slightly larger. The male has a beautiful mix of black and white. The white covers the sides of the head, breast, and back, while the black is on the tail feathers, the two feather tufts that cover the top of the wings when folded, and on the neck and head. The female is darker and has much less white. I believe this is the same species of duck that is common along the Atlantic coast and often called the butterbox. Its beak is wide and short, and both the beak and legs are a dark color. The flesh of this duck is very flavorful. The brown duck closely resembles the mallard but is only about half its size. Its color is a uniform mix of yellowish and dark brown. There's nothing particularly remarkable about its appearance; it usually inhabits the same grassy marshes as the mallard and feeds similarly on grass seeds and roots. Both of these ducks are common in the river both above and below tidewater. The black duck is about the same size as the blue-winged teal. Its color is a dusky black, with the breast and belly being slightly lighter, or dark brown. Its legs align with the body, and the bird stands quite erect when on shore. The legs and feet are dark brown, with four toes on each foot: a short one at the heel and three long ones in front, which are not webbed. The webs are attached to the sides of the joints of the toes and divided by deep grooves at each joint, creating an elliptical shape in the middle. The beak is about two inches long, straight, flattened on the sides, and tapers to a sharp point. The upper jaw is slightly longer and has a small conical bump at the base where it joins the head, reddish-brown at the tip. The beak is ivory white, and the eye is dark. These ducks usually gather in large flocks and are quite noisy; their call is a sharp, shrill whistle. They are generally fat and tasty, primarily feeding on moss and other plant material from the water. We didn't encounter them until we reached tidewater, but I don’t believe they are confined to that area throughout the year, as I've seen similar ducks in many parts of the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers. Their gizzards and livers are also notably large. The divers are the same as those found along the Atlantic coast. The smaller species has some white feathers near the rump with no noticeable tail and is very active and quick in its movements; its body is reddish-brown. The beak is sharp and somewhat curved like that of a pheasant. The toes are not connected but webbed, similar to those of the black duck. The larger species is about the size of a teal and can fly for short distances, while the smaller one seldom attempts to fly. They have short tails and feature an even brick-reddish brown color, with a straight, pointed beak. Their feet follow the same form as the others’ and their legs are notably thin and flat, with one edge being in front. Both species primarily eat fish, and their flesh is not suitable for consumption. The blue-winged teal are excellent ducks and are the same as those found along the Atlantic coast. There are some other species of ducks that I will describe later when I have the chance to examine them.
[Clark, March 10, 1806]
Monday March 10th 1806 about 1 P.M. it became fair and we Sent out two parties of hunters on this Side of the Netul, one above and the other below, we also derected a party to Set out early in the morning and pass Meriwethers Bay and hunt beyond the Kilhow anak kle. from the last we have considerable hope, as we have as yet hunted but little in that quarter. it blew hard all day, in the evening the Indians departed. The Hunters, S. R. F. & F. who were over the netul the other day informed us that they measured a 2d tree of the fir Speces (No. i) as high as a man Could reach, was 39 feet in the girth; it tapered but very little for about 200 feet without any Considerable limbs, and that it was a very lofty above the Commmencement of the limbs. from the appearance of other Species of fir, and their account of this tree, I think it might safely estimated at 300 feet. it had every appearance of being perfectly Sound in every part
Monday, March 10th, 1806, around 1 P.M., the weather cleared up, and we sent out two teams of hunters on this side of the Netul, one upstream and the other downstream. We also instructed a group to leave early in the morning, pass Meriwether's Bay, and hunt beyond the Kilhow anak kle. We have high hopes for the last team since we haven't explored much in that area yet. It was very windy all day, and in the evening, the Indians left. The hunters, S. R. F. & F., who were on the other side of the Netul the other day, told us they measured a second fir tree (No. 1) that was as high as a man could reach, with a girth of 39 feet. It tapered very little for about 200 feet without any significant branches, and it appeared quite tall above where the limbs started. Based on the looks of other types of fir and their description of this tree, I believe it can be safely estimated at 300 feet tall. It seemed to be completely sound in every part.
The brown Duck is much in form like the Duckinmallard, tho not much more than half it's Size. the colour is one uniform mixture of yellowish and dark brown. there is nothing remarkable in the colour of this duck; it resorts the Same kind of grassy marshes with the Duckinmallard, and feeds in a Similar manner, on grass, Seeds & roots. both these ducks are common to the river for Some distance above tide water as well as below. The black Duck is about the Size of the bluewinged teel. their colour is a duskey black the breast and belly Somewhat lighter than the other parts, or a dark brown. the legs Stand longitudianally with the body, and the Bird when on Shore Stands very erect. the legs and feet are of a dark brown, the toes are four on each foot, a short one on the heel and three long toes in front which are unconnected with a web. the web is atached to each Side of the Several joints of the toes, and devided by deep Sinuses at each joint. the web assumeing in the intermediate part an elipticle figure. the beak is about two inches long, Streight, flated on the Sides, and tapering to a Sharp point. the upper chap Somewhat longest and bears on its base at the joining of the head, a little conic protuberance of a cartelagenous Substance, being redish brown. the beak is of a ivery white colour. the eye dark. these ducks usially associate in large flocks, and are very noisey; their note being a Sharp shrill whistle. they are usially fat and tolerably flavoured; and feed on moss and other vegitable productions of the water. we did not meet with them untill we reached tide water, I have noticed the Same duck on maney parts of the ohio an Mississippi. the Gizzard and liver are also remarkably large in this fowl-. The Divers are the Same with those of the atlantic States. the Smaller Species has some white feathers about the rump and no perceptable tail and is very active and quick in its motion; the body is of a redish brown. the beak sharp and Somewhat curved like that of the Pheasant the toes are not connected but webd. like those discribed of the black duck. The large Species are about the Size of the teal &c. the food of both those Species is fish. and their flesh is unfit for use.
The brown duck is shaped similarly to the mallard but is only about half its size. Its color is a consistent mix of yellowish and dark brown. There’s nothing particularly striking about this duck’s color; it frequents the same grassy marshes as the mallard and eats similarly, consuming grass, seeds, and roots. Both of these ducks are common in the river both above and below tidewater. The black duck is about the size of the blue-winged teal. Their color is a dusky black, with a breast and belly that are somewhat lighter, appearing dark brown. The legs are aligned with the body, and the bird stands very upright when on land. The legs and feet are dark brown, with four toes on each foot: a short one on the heel and three long toes in front that are not webbed together. The web connects to each side of the toe joints and has deep sinus-like divisions at each joint, taking on an elliptical shape in the middle. The beak is about two inches long, straight, flattened on the sides, and tapering to a sharp point. The upper jaw is slightly longer and has a small conical bump at the base where it meets the head, which is reddish-brown in color. The beak is a creamy white, and the eye is dark. These ducks usually gather in large flocks and make a lot of noise, their call being a sharp, shrill whistle. They are typically fat and fairly tasty, feeding on moss and other aquatic vegetation. We didn’t encounter them until we reached tidewater; I’ve seen the same duck in many areas along the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers. The gizzard and liver of this bird are also notably large. The divers are the same as those found in the Atlantic States. The smaller species has some white feathers around the rump, no noticeable tail, and is very quick and agile. Its body is reddish-brown, and its beak is sharp and somewhat curved, resembling that of a pheasant. The toes are not connected but are webbed, similar to those of the black duck. The larger species is about the size of the teal. Their diet consists of fish, but their flesh is not fit for consumption.
The bluewinged teal are a very excellent duck, and are the Same with those of the atlantic coast.—There are some other Species of ducks which Shall be hereafter discribd. as I may hereafter have an oppertunity of exameneing them.
The blue-winged teal are a great type of duck, and they're the same as those on the Atlantic coast. There are some other species of ducks that I will describe later, as I may have the chance to examine them.
[Lewis, March 11, 1806]
Tuesday March 11th 1806. Early this morning Sergt. Pryor arrived with a small canoe loaded with fish which he had obtained from the Cathlahmah's for a very small part of the articles he had taken with him. the wind had prevented his going to the fisery on the opposite side of the river above the Wackiacums, and also as we had suspected, prevented his return as early as he would otherwise have been back.—The dogs at the Cathlahmahs had bitten the trong assunder which confined his canoe and she had gone a drift. he borrowed a canoe from the Indians in which he has returned. he found his canoe on the way and secured her, untill we return the Indians their canoe, when she can be brought back. Sent Sergt. Gass and a party in surch of a canoe which was reported to have been sunk in a small creek on the opposite side of the Netul a few miles below us, where she had been left by Shields R. Fields and Frazier when they were lately sent out to hunt over the Netul. They returned and reported that they could not find the canoe she had broken the cord by which she was attatched, and had been carried off by the tide. Drewyer Joseph Fields and Frazier set out by light this morning to pass the bay in order to hunt as they had been directed the last evening. we once more live in clover; Anchovies fresh Sturgeon and Wappetoe. the latter Sergt. Pryor had also procured and brought with him. The reptiles of this country are the rattlesnake garter snake and the common brown Lizzard. The season was so far advanced when we arrived on this side of the rocky mountains that but few rattlesnakes were seen I did not remark one particularly myself, nor do I know whether they are of either of the four speceis found in the different parts of the United states, or of that species before mentioned peculiar to the upper parts of the Missouri and it's branches. The garter snake so called in the United States is very common in this country; they are found in great numbers on the open and sometimes marshey grounds in this neighbourhood. they differ not at all from those of the U States. the black or dark brown lizzard we saw at the rock fort Camp at the commencement of the woody country below the great narrows and falls of the Columbia; they are also the same with those of the United States. The snail is numerous in the woody country on this coast; they are in shape like those of the United States, but are at least five times their bulk. There is a speceis of water lizzard of which I saw one only just above the grand rapids of the Columbia. it is about 9 inches long the body is reather flat and about the size of a mans finger covered with a soft skin of a dark brown colour with an uneven surface covered with little pimples the neck and head are short, the latter terminating in an accute angular point and flat. the fore feet each four toes, the hinder ones five unconnected with a web and destitute of tallons. it's tail was reather longer than the body and in form like that of the Musk-rat, first rising in an arch higher than the back and decending lower than the body at the extremity, and flated perpendicularly. the belley and under part of the neck and head were of a brick red every other part of the colour of the upper part of the body a dark brown. the mouth was smooth, without teeth.
Tuesday, March 11, 1806. Early this morning, Sgt. Pryor arrived with a small canoe loaded with fish that he had gotten from the Cathlahmah's in exchange for just a few of the items he had taken with him. The wind had prevented him from going to the fishing spot on the other side of the river above the Wackiacums, and, as we suspected, it also delayed his return longer than it would have been otherwise. The dogs at the Cathlahmahs had bitten the rope that held his canoe, causing it to drift away. He borrowed a canoe from the Indians to return. On his way back, he found his canoe and secured it until we can return the Indians' canoe, at which point it can be brought back. I sent Sgt. Gass and a team to search for a canoe that was reported sunk in a small creek on the opposite side of the Netul, a few miles below us. It had been left there by Shields R. Fields and Frazier when they were recently sent out to hunt around the Netul. They came back and reported they couldn't find the canoe; it had broken loose from its tether and been carried off by the tide. Drewyer, Joseph Fields, and Frazier set out early this morning to cross the bay to hunt as they had been instructed the night before. We are once again living well; there are fresh anchovies, sturgeon, and wappetoe, the latter of which Sgt. Pryor also obtained. The reptiles in this region include the rattlesnake, garter snake, and common brown lizard. By the time we arrived on this side of the Rocky Mountains, the season was so advanced that we saw very few rattlesnakes; I didn't notice one in particular, nor do I know whether they belong to any of the four species found in different parts of the United States or to the species mentioned that is unique to the upper regions of the Missouri and its branches. The garter snake, which is common in the U.S., is also very common here; they are found in large numbers in the open and sometimes marshy areas nearby, and they are identical to those in the United States. The black or dark brown lizard we observed at the rock fort camp at the start of the wooded area below the great narrows and falls of the Columbia is also the same as those in the U.S. The snails are abundant in the wooded areas along this coast; they are shaped like those in the U.S. but are at least five times their size. There is a type of water lizard of which I only saw one just above the grand rapids of the Columbia. It is about 9 inches long, its body is fairly flat and about the size of a man's finger, covered with soft dark brown skin that has an uneven surface dotted with little bumps. The neck and head are short, with the latter tapering to a sharp point that is flat. The front feet each have four toes, while the back feet have five, without webbing and lacking claws. Its tail is a bit longer than its body and resembles that of a muskrat, arching higher than its back and tapering lower than its body at the end, and flattened vertically. The belly and underside of the neck and head are a brick red, while the rest of the body is dark brown. Its mouth is smooth and toothless.
[Clark, March 11, 1806]
Tuesday March 11th 1806 Early this morning Sergt. Pryor arrived with a Small Canoe loaded with fish which he had obtained from the Cath-lah-mah's for a very Small part of the articles he had taken with him. the wind had prevented his going to the fishery on the opposit Side of the river above the Waukiecum's, and also as we had suspected, prevented his return as early as he otherwise would have been back. The dogs of the Cathlahmah's had bitten the throng assunder which confined his canoe and she had gorn adrift. he borrowed a Canoe from the Indians in which he has returned. he found his canoe on the way and Secured her, untill we return the Indians their Canoe—Sent Sergt. Gass and a party in Serch of one of our Canoes which was reported to have been lost from a hunting party of Shields R. Field & Frazier when they were last out on the opposit Side of the Netul. they returned and reported that they Could not find the Canoe which had broken the Cord with which it was attached, and was caried off by the tide. Drewyer Jo. Field & Frazier Set out by light this morning to pass the bay in order to hunt as they had been directed last evening. we once more live in Clover; Anchovies fresh Sturgeon and Wappatoe. the latter Sergt. Pryor had also procured a fiew and brought with him. The Deer of this Coust differ from the Common Deer, fallow Deer or Mule Deer as has beformentiond.
Tuesday, March 11th, 1806 Early this morning, Sergeant Pryor arrived with a small canoe loaded with fish that he had gotten from the Cathlahmah people for just a small portion of the items he had taken with him. The wind had kept him from going to the fishery on the other side of the river above the Waukiecum people, which, as we had suspected, also delayed his return longer than he would have liked. The dogs belonging to the Cathlahmah had bitten through the rope that secured his canoe, causing it to drift away. He borrowed a canoe from the Indians to come back and found his canoe on the way and secured it until we return the Indians their canoe. I sent Sergeant Gass and a group to search for one of our canoes, which was reported lost by a hunting party including Shields, R. Field, and Frazier when they were last out on the other side of the Netul. They came back and reported that they couldn’t find the canoe, which had broken loose from its mooring and was carried off by the tide. Drewyer, Jo. Field, and Frazier set out early this morning to cross the bay for hunting, as they had been instructed the evening before. Once again, we feast on clover; fresh anchovies, sturgeon, and wapatoe. Sergeant Pryor also brought back a few wapatoe. The deer on this coast are different from common deer, fallow deer, or mule deer, as mentioned before.
The Mule Deer we have never found except in rough Country; they prefer the Open Grounds and are Seldom found in the wood lands near the river; when they are met with in the wood lands or river bottoms and pursued, they imediately run to the hills or open country as the Elk do, the Contrary happens with the common Deer. there are Several differences between the mule and common deer as well as in form as in habits. they are fully a third larger in general, and the male is particularly large; think there is Somewhat greater disparity of Size between the Male and the female of this Species than there is between the male and female fallow Deer; I am Convinced I have Seen a Buck of this Species twice the volume a Buck of the Common Deer. the Ears are peculiarly large, I measured those of a large Buck which I found to be eleven inches long and 31/2 in width at the widest part; they are not so delicately formed, their hair in winter is thicker longer and of a much darker grey, in Summer the hair is Still coarser longer and of a paler red, more like that of the Elk; in winter they also have a Considerable quantity of very fine wool intermixed with the hair and lying next to the Skin as the Antelope has. the long hair which grows on the outer Side of the first joint of the hind legs, and which in the Common Deer do not usially occupy more than 2 inches in them occupy from 6 to 8; their horns also differ, those in the Common deer consist of two main beams gradually deminishing as the points proceed from it, with the mule deer the horns consist of two beams which at the distance of 4 or 6 inches from the head divide themselves into two equal branches which again either divide into two other equal branches or terminate in a Smaller, and two equal ones; haveing either 2, 4 or 6 points on a beam; the horn is not so rough about the base as the common deer, and are invariably of a much darker Colour. the most Strikeing difference of all, is the white rump and tail. from the root of the tail as a center there is a circular Spot perfectly white of about 31/2 inches radius, which occupy a part of the rump and the extremities of buttocks and joins the white of the belley underneath; the tail which is usially from 8 to 9 inches long for the first 4 or 5 inches from its upper extremity is covered with Short white hairs, much Shorter indeed than those hairs of the body; from hence for about one inch further, the hair is Still white but gradually becoms longer; the tail then termonates in a tissue of Black hair of about 3 inches long. from this black hair of the tail they have obtained among the French engages the appelation of the black tailed Deer, but this I conceive by no means Characteristic of the Animal as much the larger portion of the tail is white. the Ears and the tail of this Animale when Compared with those of the Common Deer, So well Comported with those of the Mule when compared with the Horse, that we have by way of distinction adapted the appellation of the mule Deer which I think much more appropriate. on the inner corner of each eye there is a drane (like the Elk) or large recepticle which Seams to Answer as a drane to the eye which givs it the appearance of weeping, this in the Common Deer of the Atlantic States is scercely proceptable but becoms more Conspicious in the fallow Deer, and Still more So in the Elk; this recepticle in the Elk is larger than any of the Pecora order with which I am acquainted.
The Mule Deer are only found in rugged terrain; they prefer open areas and are seldom seen in the woodlands near rivers. When they are found in woodlands or riverbanks and chased, they quickly run to the hills or open country just like Elk do, unlike common Deer. There are several differences between mule and common deer both in appearance and behavior. They are generally about a third larger, and the males are especially big; I believe there is a greater size difference between the male and female of this species compared to that of the male and female fallow Deer. I'm convinced I've seen a Buck of this species that was twice the size of a Buck of the Common Deer. Their ears are particularly large; I measured a large Buck's ears at eleven inches long and 3.5 inches wide at their widest part. They’re not as delicately shaped. In winter, their fur is thicker, longer, and a much darker gray, while in summer, it remains coarser, longer, and a lighter red, more similar to that of Elk. In winter, they also have a significant amount of fine wool mixed in with the hair near the skin, similar to Antelope. The long hair that grows on the outer side of the first joint of the hind legs in them occupies 6 to 8 inches, while in Common Deer, it usually doesn't exceed 2 inches. Their horns also differ; in Common Deer, the horns have two main beams that gradually narrow as they extend outward. In contrast, mule deer horns consist of two beams that split into two equal branches about 4 to 6 inches from the head, which may further split into two even smaller branches or end in a smaller point, resulting in either 2, 4, or 6 points on each beam. The horns are not as rough at the base as in common deer and are consistently of a much darker color. The most striking difference is the white rump and tail. Starting from the base of the tail as a center, there is a circular spot that is perfectly white, about 3.5 inches in radius, which covers part of the rump and the rear end, connecting with the white of the belly underneath. The tail, usually 8 to 9 inches long, is covered with short white hairs on the upper 4 or 5 inches, which are much shorter than the hairs on the body. From there, for about one inch, the hair remains white but gradually becomes longer; then, the tail ends in a section of black hair about 3 inches long. From this black portion of the tail, they have been referred to among the French trappers as the black-tailed Deer, but I think that's not very characteristic, as a much larger part of the tail is white. The ears and tail of this animal, when compared to those of the Common Deer, resemble how Mule ears and tails compare to those of the Horse, which is why we have adopted the name Mule Deer, and I find that much more fitting. On the inner corner of each eye, there is a drain (like the Elk) or large receptacle that seems to act as a drain for the eye, giving it the appearance of weeping. In the Common Deer of the Atlantic States, this is hardly noticeable, but it becomes more apparent in fallow Deer and even more so in Elk; this receptacle in Elk is larger than any other members of the Pecora order that I'm familiar with.
I have Some reasons to believe that the Calumet Eagle is Sometimes found on this Side of the Rocky mountains from the information of the Indians in whose possession I have Seen their plumage. those are the Same with those of the Missouri, and are the most butifull of all the family of the Eagle of America it's colours are black and white with which it is butifully varigated. the feathers of the tail which is so highly prized by the Indians is composed of twelve broad feathers of equal length those are white except about two inches at the extremity which is of a jut black. their wings have each a large circular white Spot in the middle when extended. the body is variously marked with white and black. the form is much that of the Common bald Eagle, but they are reather Smaller and much more fleet. this Eagle is feared by all carnivarous birds, and on his approach all leave the carcase instantly on which they were feeding. it breads in the inaccessable parts of the Mountains where it Spends the Summer, and decends to the plains and low country in the fall and winter when it is usially Sought and taken by the nativs. two tails of this bird is esteemed by Mandans, Minnetares, Ricaras, &c. as the full value of a good horse, or Gun and accoutrements. with the Osage & Kanzas and those nations enhabiting Countrys where this bird is more rare, the price is even double of that mentioned. with these feathers the nativs deckerate the Stems of their Sacred pipes or Calumets; whence the name of Calumet Eagle, which has Generally obtained among the Engages. The Ricaras have domesticated this bird in many instances for the purpose of obtaining its plumage. the nativs in every part of the Continent who can precure those feathers attach them to their own hair and the mains and tail of their favorite horses by way of orniment. they also deckerate their own caps or bonnets with those feathers. The Leather winged bat is found &c.
I have some reasons to believe that the Calumet Eagle is sometimes found on this side of the Rocky Mountains, based on information from the Indians, who have shown me their plumage. Those are the same as those of the Missouri eagle and are the most beautiful of all the eagle family in America; its colors are black and white, beautifully variegated. The tail feathers, which are highly prized by the Indians, consist of twelve broad feathers of equal length; they are white, except for about two inches at the tip, which are jet black. Each wing features a large circular white spot in the middle when extended. The body is marked with various patterns of white and black. Its shape is similar to that of the common bald eagle, but it's a bit smaller and much swifter. This eagle is feared by all carnivorous birds, and when it approaches, they all immediately leave the carcass they were feeding on. It breeds in the inaccessible parts of the mountains, where it spends the summer, and descends to the plains and lowlands in the fall and winter, when it is usually hunted and captured by the natives. Two tail feathers of this bird are valued by the Mandans, Minnetarees, Ricaras, etc., at the equivalent of a good horse or a gun with gear. Among the Osage, Kanzas, and other nations living in areas where this bird is rarer, the price is even double that. The natives use these feathers to decorate the stems of their sacred pipes or calumets, which is how the name Calumet Eagle came about among the English. The Ricaras have domesticated this bird in many cases to obtain its plumage. Natives across the continent who can acquire these feathers attach them to their own hair and to the manes and tails of their favorite horses as ornaments. They also decorate their own hats or bonnets with these feathers. The leather-winged bat is found, etc.
[Lewis, March 12, 1806]
Wednesday March 12th 1806 We sent a party again in surch of the perogue but they returned unsuccessful) as yesterday. Sent one hunter out on this side of the Netul, he did not return this evening. I beleive the Callamet Eagle is sometimes found on this side of the rocky mountains from the information of the Indians in whose possession I have seen their plumage. these are the same with those of the Missouri, and are the most beautiful) of all the family of the Eagles of America. it's colours are black and white with which it is beautifully variagated. the feathers of the tail which are so highly prized by the Indians is composed of twelve broad feathers of equal length. these are white except about 2 inches at the extremity which is of a jut black. there wings have each a large circular white spot in the middle when extended. the body is variously marked with white and black. the form is much that of the common bald Eagle, but they are reather smaller and much more fleet. this eagle is feared by all carnivorous birds, and on his approach all leave the carcase instantly on which they were feeding. it breads in the inaccessable parts of the mountains where it spends the summer, and decends to the plains and low country in the fall and winter when it is usually sought and taken by the natives. two tails of this bird is esteemed by the Mandans Minetares Ricares, &c as the full value of a good horse, or gun and accoutrements. with the Great and little Osages and those nations inhabiting countries where this bird is more rare the price is even double of that mentioned. with these feathers the natives decorate the stems of their sacred pipes or callamets; whence the name, of Callamet Eagle, which has generally obtained among the Engages. the Ricares have domesticated this bird in many instancies for the purpose of obtaining it's plumage. the natives in every part of the con tinent who can procure these feathers attatch them to their own hair and the mains and tails of their favorite horses by way of ornament. they also decorate their war caps or bonnets with those feathers.—The leather winged batt common to the United States is also found on this side of the Rocky mountains.—Beside the fish of this coast and river already mentioned we have met with the following speceis viz. the Whale, Porpus, Skaite, flounder, Salmon, red charr, two speceis of Salmon trout, mountain or speckled trout, and a speceis similar to one of those noticed on the Missouri within the mountains, called in the Eastern states, bottle-nose. I have no doubt but there are many other speceis of fish, which also exist in this quarter at different seasons of the year, which we have not had an oportunity of seeing. the shell fish are the Clam, perrewinkle, common mussle, cockle, and a speceis with a circular flat shell. The Whale is sometimes pursued harpooned and taken by the Indians of this coast; tho I beleive it is much more frequently killed by runing fowl on the rocks of the coast in violent storms and thrown on shore by the wind and tide. in either case the Indians preseve and eat the blubber and oil as has been before mentioned. the whalebone they also carefully preserve for sale.—Our party are now furnished with 358 pair of Mockersons exclusive of a good portion of dressed leather.-
Wednesday, March 12, 1806 We sent out a team again in search of the perogue, but they returned unsuccessful, just like yesterday. I sent out one hunter on this side of the Netul, but he didn’t come back this evening. I believe the Callamet Eagle is sometimes found on this side of the Rocky Mountains, based on the information from the Indians, who have shown me their feathers. These are the same as those from the Missouri and are the most beautiful of all the eagle species in America. Its colors are black and white, beautifully varied. The tail feathers, which are highly prized by the Indians, consist of twelve broad feathers of equal length. These are white, except for about 2 inches at the end, which is jet black. Each wing has a large circular white spot in the middle when extended. The body is marked with various patterns of white and black. Its shape is similar to that of the common bald eagle, but they are slightly smaller and much swifter. This eagle is feared by all carnivorous birds, and when it approaches, they all instantly leave the carcass they were feeding on. It breeds in the hard-to-reach parts of the mountains where it spends the summer, then descends to the plains and lowlands in the fall and winter, when it is usually hunted and captured by the natives. Two tail feathers of this bird are valued by the Mandans, Minetares, Ricara, etc. at the same cost as a good horse or gun with equipment. With the Great and Little Osages and other nations living in areas where this bird is rarer, the price is even double that. The natives use these feathers to decorate the stems of their sacred pipes or callamets, hence the name Callamet Eagle, which is commonly used among the Engages. The Ricara have domesticated this bird in many cases to obtain its plumage. Natives across the continent who can procure these feathers attach them to their hair and to the manes and tails of their favorite horses as ornamentation. They also decorate their war caps or bonnets with these feathers. The common leather-winged bat of the United States is also found on this side of the Rocky Mountains. Alongside the fish from this coast and river already mentioned, we have encountered the following species: whale, porpoise, skate, flounder, salmon, red charr, two species of salmon trout, mountain or speckled trout, and a species similar to one observed on the Missouri, called bottle-nose in the Eastern states. I have no doubt that there are many other species of fish that exist in this area at different times of the year, which we have not had the opportunity to see. The shellfish include clam, periwinkle, common mussel, cockle, and a species with a circular flat shell. The whale is sometimes pursued, harpooned, and captured by the Indians of this coast; although I believe it is much more often killed when running into rocks on the coast during violent storms and is then thrown ashore by the wind and tide. In either case, the Indians preserve and eat the blubber and oil, as previously mentioned. They also carefully preserve whalebone for sale. Our party is now equipped with 358 pairs of mockersons, in addition to a significant portion of dressed leather.
[Clark, March 12, 1806]
Wednesday March 12th 1806 We Sent a party again in Serch of the Canoe but they returned unsucksessfull as yesterday Sent one hunter out on this Side of the Netul he did not return this evening. Our party are now furnished with 358 par of Mockersons exclusive of a good portion of Dressed leather, they are also previded with Shirts Overalls Capoes of dressed Elk Skins for the homeward journey.
Wednesday, March 12th, 1806 We sent a group out again to search for the canoe, but they came back unsuccessful, just like yesterday. One hunter was sent out on this side of the Netul, but he didn’t return this evening. Our group is now equipped with 358 pairs of moccasins, plus a good amount of dressed leather. They are also supplied with shirts, overalls, and capes made from dressed elk skins for the journey home.
Besides the fish of this Coast and river already mentioned we have met with the following Species. viz. the Whale, Porpus, Skaite, flounder, Salmon, red-carr, two Specis of Salmon trout, mountain or Speckled trout, and a Speceis Similar to one of those noticed on the Missouri within the mountains, called in the Eastern States, bottle nose. I have no doubt but there are many other Species of fish which also exist in this quarter at different Seasons of the year, which we have not had an oppertunity of seeing. the Shell fish are the Clam, perriwinkle, common Muscle, cockle, and a Species with a circular flat Shell.
Besides the fish from this coast and river already mentioned, we've encountered the following species: the whale, porpoise, skate, flounder, salmon, red carp, two species of salmon trout, mountain or speckled trout, and a species similar to one noted in the Missouri mountains, referred to in the Eastern States as bottle nose. I am sure there are many other species of fish that exist in this area at different times of the year, which we haven’t had the chance to see. The shellfish include clams, periwinkles, common mussels, cockles, and a species with a round, flat shell.
The Whale is Sometimes pursued harpooned and taken by the Indians of this Coast; tho I believe it is much more frequently killed by running on the rocks of the Coast to S. S. W. in violent Storms, and thrown on different parts of the Coast by the winds and tide-. in either case the Indians preserve and eat the blubber and Oil as has been before mentioned. the whale bone they also carefully preserve for Sale.
The whale is sometimes hunted, harpooned, and caught by the Indigenous people of this coast; however, I believe it is much more often killed by crashing into the rocks along the coast to the south-southwest during violent storms and then washed up on different parts of the shore by the winds and tides. In either case, the Indigenous people preserve and eat the blubber and oil, as mentioned earlier. They also carefully save the whale bone for sale.
The Reptiles of this Country are the rattle snake, garter Snake a common brown Lizzard. The Season was so far advanced on this side of the Rocky Mountains that but fiew rattle Snakes were Seen, I did not remark one particularly my Self, nor do I know if they are of either of the four Species found in different parts of the United States, or of that Species before observed only on the upper parts of the Missouri & its branches.
The reptiles in this country include the rattlesnake, garter snake, and a common brown lizard. The season had progressed so far on this side of the Rocky Mountains that only a few rattlesnakes were seen. I didn't notice one myself, nor do I know if they belong to any of the four species found in different parts of the United States, or to the species I had previously observed only in the upper regions of the Missouri and its branches.
The Garter Snake So Called in the U States is very common in this country, they are found in great numbers on the open and Sometimes marshy grounds in this neighbourhood. they differ not at all from those of the United States. the Black or Dark brown Lizzard we Saw at the long narrows or Commencement of the woody country on the Columbia; they are also the Same with those of the U, States. The Snail is noumerous in the woodey Country on this Coast, they are in Shape like those of the U, States, but are at least five times their bulk. there is a Specis of water Lizzard of which I only Saw one just above the grand rapid of the Columbia. it is about 9 inches long the body is reather flat and about the Size of a mans finger, covered with a Soft Skin of dark brown Colour with an uneaven sufice covered with little pimples, the neck and head are Short, the latter termonateing in an accute angular point and flat. the fore feet each have four toes, the hinder ones five unconnected with a web and destitute of tallons. it's tail was reather longer than the body, and in form like that of the muskrat, first riseing in an arch higher than the back, and decending lower than the body at the extremety, and flated perpindicularly. the belly and under part of the neck and head were of a Brick red every other part of the colour of the upper part of the body are dark brown. the mouth was Smooth without teeth.
The Garter Snake, known as such in the U.S., is very common here. They can be found in large numbers in open and sometimes marshy areas around this neighborhood. They are identical to those in the United States. The black or dark brown lizard we saw at the long narrows, where the wooded area begins along the Columbia, is also the same as those in the U.S. Snails are abundant in the wooded areas on this coast; they are shaped like the ones in the U.S. but are at least five times bigger. There's a species of water lizard that I only saw once just above the grand rapid of the Columbia. It’s about 9 inches long, has a somewhat flat body roughly the size of a man’s finger, and is covered with a soft, dark brown skin that has a rough surface with small bumps. The neck and head are short, with the head tapering to a sharp, flat point. The front feet each have four toes, while the back feet have five, neither of which connects with webbing and both lacking claws. Its tail was a bit longer than its body and resembled that of a muskrat, first arching higher than the back and then descending below the body at the tip, which is flattened vertically. The belly and underside of the neck and head were brick red, while the rest of its body was dark brown. The mouth was smooth and toothless.
The horns of Some of the Elk have not yet fallen off and those of others have Grown to the length of Six inches. the latter are in the best order, from which it would Seem that the pore Elk retain their horns longer.
The horns of some of the elk haven't dropped yet, while others have grown to six inches long. The latter are in the best shape, which suggests that the poor elk keep their horns for a longer time.
[Lewis, March 13, 1806]
Thursday March 13th 1806. This morning Drewyer Jos Feilds and Frazier returned; they had killed two Elk and two deer. visited by two Cathlahmahs who left us in the evening. we sent Drewyer down to the Clatsop village to purchase a couple of their canoes if possible. Sergt. Pryor and a party made another surch for the lost peroge but was unsuccessfull; while engaged in surching for the perogue Collins one of his party killed two Elk near the Netul below us. we sent Sergt. Ordway and a party for the flesh of one of the Elk beyond the bay with which they returned in the evening. the other Elk and two deer were at some distance. R. Fields and Thompson who set out yesterday morning on a hunting excurtion towards point Adams have not yet returned. The horns of some of the Elk have not yet fallen off, and those of others have shotten out to the length of six inches. the latter are in the best order, from which it would seem that the poor Elk retain their horns longest.
Thursday, March 13, 1806. This morning, Drewyer, Jos Fields, and Frazier returned; they had killed two elk and two deer. We were visited by two Cathlahmahs who left us in the evening. We sent Drewyer down to the Clatsop village to try to buy a couple of their canoes. Sergeant Pryor and a group searched again for the lost perogue but were unsuccessful; while searching for the perogue, Collins, one of his team, killed two elk near the Netul below us. We sent Sergeant Ordway and a group for the meat from one of the elk beyond the bay, and they returned with it in the evening. The other elk and two deer were at some distance. R. Fields and Thompson, who set out yesterday morning on a hunting trip towards Point Adams, have not yet returned. The antlers of some of the elk haven't fallen off yet, while others have grown to about six inches long. The latter are in better shape, which suggests that the poor elk keep their antlers the longest.
The Porpus is common on this coast and as far up the river as the water is brackish. the Indians sometimes gig them and always eat the flesh of this fish when they can procure it; to me the flavor is disagreeable. the Skaite is also common to the salt water, we have seen several of them that had perished and were thrown out on the beach by the tide. The flounder is also an inhabitant of the salt water, we have seen them also on the beach where they had been left by the tide. the Indians eat the latter and esteem it very fine. these several speceis are the same with those of the Atlantic coast. the common Salmon and red Charr are the inhabitants of both the sea and rivers. the former is usually largest and weighs from 5 to 15 lbs. it is this speceis that extends itself into all the rivers and little creeks on this side of the Continent, and to which the natives are so much indebted for their subsistence. the body of this fish is from 21/2 to 3 feet long and proportionably broad. it is covered with imbricated scales of a moderate size and is variegated with irregular black spots on it's sides and gills. the eye is large and the iris of a silvery colour the pupil black. the rostrum or nose extends beyond the under jaw, and both the upper and lower jaws are armed with a single series of long teeth which are subulate and infleted near the extremities of the jaws where they are also more closely arranged. they have some sharp teeth of smaller size and same shape placed on the tongue which is thick and fleshey. the fins of the back are two; the first is plaised nearer the head than the ventral fins and has ____ rays, the second is placed far back near the tail is small and has no rays. the flesh of this fish is when in order of a deep flesh coloured red and every shade from that to an orrange yellow, and when very meager almost white. the roes of this fish are much esteemed by the natives who dry them in the sun and preserve them for a great length of time. they are about the size of a small pea nearly transparent and of a redish yellow colour. they resemble very much at a little distance the common currants of our gardens but are more yellow. this fish is sometimes red along the sides and belley near the gills particularly the male. The red Charr are reather broader in proportion to their length than the common salmon, the skales are also imbricated but reather large. the nostrum exceeds the lower jaw more and the teeth are neither as large nor so numerous as those of the salmon. some of them are almost entirely red on the belley and sides; others are much more white than the salmon and none of them are variagated with the dark spots which make the body of the other. their flesh roes and every other particular with rispect to their form is that of the Salmon. this fish we did not see untill we decended below the grat falls of the Columbia; but whether they are exclusively confined to this portion of the river or not at all seasons, I am unable to determine.
The porpoise is common along this coast and as far up the river as the water is brackish. The Indigenous people sometimes catch them and always eat the meat of this fish when they can get it; I find the flavor unpleasant. The skate is also common in the saltwater; we've seen several that had died and were washed up on the beach by the tide. The flounder is also found in the saltwater, and we've seen them on the beach where they were left by the tide. The Indigenous people eat the flounder and consider it a delicacy. These various species are the same as those on the Atlantic coast. The common salmon and red char inhabit both the sea and rivers. The former is usually larger, weighing between 5 and 15 pounds. This species extends into all the rivers and small creeks on this side of the continent, and the natives rely on it heavily for their sustenance. The body of this fish ranges from 2.5 to 3 feet long and is proportionately broad. It is covered in overlapping scales of moderate size and has irregular black spots on its sides and gills. The eye is large, with a silvery iris and a black pupil. The snout extends beyond the lower jaw, and both the upper and lower jaws have a single row of long, pointed teeth that curve inward near the tips, where they are also more closely spaced. There are smaller, sharp, similarly shaped teeth on the thick, fleshy tongue. There are two dorsal fins; the first is located closer to the head than the ventral fins and has ____ rays, while the second is placed farther back near the tail, is smaller, and has no rays. The flesh of this fish, when in good condition, is a deep reddish color, ranging to orange-yellow; if very lean, it's almost white. The roe of this fish is highly valued by the Indigenous people, who dry it in the sun and preserve it for a long time. They are about the size of a small pea, nearly transparent, and reddish-yellow. From a distance, they closely resemble common currants from our gardens but are more yellow. This fish can sometimes be reddish along the sides and belly near the gills, especially the males. The red char are somewhat broader in proportion to their length than the common salmon, and their scales are also overlapping but larger. The snout extends more beyond the lower jaw, and the teeth are neither as large nor as numerous as those of the salmon. Some are almost entirely red on the belly and sides, while others are whiter than the salmon, with none showing the dark spots that characterize the latter. Their flesh, roe, and all other aspects regarding their form are similar to those of the salmon. We didn't see this fish until we descended below the great falls of the Columbia; however, I'm unable to determine whether they are exclusive to this part of the river or not present in all seasons.
[Clark, March 13, 1806]
Thursday March 13th 1806. This morning Drewyer Jos. Fields and Frazer returned; they had killed two Elk and two deer. Visited by two Cath-lah-mars who left us in the evening. we Sent Drewyer down to the Clatsop Village to purchase a couple of their canoes if possible. Sergt. Pryor and a party made another Serch for the lost Canoe but was unsucksessfull; while engaged in Serching for the Canoe, Collins one of his party killed two Elk near the Netul below us. we Sent Sergt. Ordway and a party for the flesh of one of the Elk beyond the Bay with which they returned in the evening; the other Elk and 2 Deer were at Some distance—R. Field and Thompson who Set out on a hunting excursion yesterday morning towards point Adams have not yet returned. took equal altitudes to day this being the only fair day for Sometime past.
Thursday, March 13, 1806. This morning, Drewyer, Jos. Fields, and Frazer returned; they had killed two elk and two deer. We were visited by two Cath-lah-mars who left us in the evening. We sent Drewyer down to Clatsop Village to try to buy a couple of their canoes if possible. Sergt. Pryor and a group made another search for the lost canoe but were unsuccessful; while searching for the canoe, Collins, one of his party, killed two elk near the Netul below us. We sent Sergt. Ordway and a group for the meat of one of the elk beyond the bay, and they returned in the evening; the other elk and two deer were some distance away. R. Field and Thompson, who set out on a hunting trip yesterday morning towards Point Adams, have not yet returned. Took equal altitudes today, as this was the only clear day we've had for some time.
The Porpus is common on this coast and as far up the river as the water is brackish. the Indians Sometimes gig them and always eat the flesh of this fish when they Can precure it; to me the flavour is disagreeable. the Skaite is also common to the Salt water, I have Seen Several of them that had perished and were thrown out on the beach by the tide. The flounder is also an enhabitent of the Salt water. we have Seen them also on the beach where they had been left by the tide. the nativs eate the latter and esteem it very fine. these Several Species are the Same of those of the atlantic Coasts. The Common Salmon and red charr are the inhabitents of both the Sea and river. the former is usially largest and weighs from 5 to 15 lbs. it is this Species that extends itself into all the rivers and little creek on this Side of the Continent, and to which the nativs are So much indebted for their Subsistence. the body of this fish is from 21/2 to 3 feet long and perpotionably broad. it is covered with imbricated scales of a moderate Size and is varigated with errigular black Spots on its Side and gills. the eye is large and the iris of a Silvery colour the pupil black. the rostrum or nose extend beyond the under jaws, and both the upper and the lower jaw are armed with a Single Series of long teeth which are Subulate and infleted near the extremities of the jaws where they are more closely arranged. they have Some Sharp teeth of Smaller Size and Same Shape on the tongue which is thick and fleshey. the fins of the back are two; the first is placed nearer the head than the Venteral fins and has ____ rays, the Second is placed far back near the tail is small and has no rays. The flesh of this fish when in order of a deep flesh coloured red and every Shade from that to an orrange yellow, and when very meager almost white. the Roe of this fish are much esteemed by the nativs, who dry them in the Sun and preserve them for a great length of time. they are about the Size of a Small pea nearly transparrent and of a redish yellow colour. they resemble very much at a little distance the Common Current of our gardens but are more yellow. this fish is Sometimes red along the Sides and belly near the gills; particularly the male of this Species.
The porpoise is common along this coast and as far up the river as the water is brackish. The Indians sometimes catch them and always eat the flesh of this fish when they can get it; personally, I find the taste unpleasant. The skate is also common in saltwater; I've seen several that had died and were washed up on the beach by the tide. The flounder also thrives in saltwater. We have seen them on the beach, left there by the tide. The natives eat the latter and consider it very fine. These various species are the same as those found on the Atlantic Coasts. The common salmon and red char inhabit both the sea and the river. The former is usually larger, weighing between 5 to 15 pounds. This species migrates into all the rivers and small creeks on this side of the continent, and the natives rely on it significantly for their livelihood. This fish typically measures between 2.5 to 3 feet long and is proportionately broad. It has overlapping scales of moderate size and is patterned with irregular black spots on its sides and gills. The eye is large, with a silver iris and a black pupil. The snout extends beyond the lower jaw, and both the upper and lower jaws are lined with a single series of long, needle-like teeth that curve near the jaw's ends, where they are closely spaced. There are smaller sharp teeth of the same shape on the thick, fleshy tongue. There are two dorsal fins; the first is closer to the head than the ventral fins and has ____ rays, while the second, located further back near the tail, is small and has no rays. The flesh of this fish, when in good condition, is a deep reddish color, ranging from that to orange-yellow, and when very lean, it becomes almost white. The roe of this fish is highly valued by the natives, who dry it in the sun and preserve it for extended periods. They are about the size of a small pea, nearly transparent, and have a reddish-yellow color. From a distance, they closely resemble the common currants found in our gardens but are more yellow. This fish sometimes has a reddish hue along its sides and belly near the gills, particularly in the males of this species.
The Red Charr are reather broader in proportion to their length than the Common Salmon, the Skales are also embricated but reather large. the nostrum exceeds the lower jaw more and the teeth are neither So noumerous or large as those of the Salmon. Some of them are almost entirely red on the belly and Sides; others are much more white than the Salmon, and none of them are varigated with the dark Spots which mark the body of the other. their flesh roe and every other particular with respect to their is that of the Salmon. this fish we did not See untill we had decended below the Great falls of the Columbia; but whether they are exclusively confined to this portion of the river or not at all Seasons, I am unable to determine.
The Red Charr are a bit broader in relation to their length compared to the Common Salmon, and the scales are also overlapping but fairly large. The upper jaw extends beyond the lower jaw more, and their teeth are neither as numerous nor as large as those of the Salmon. Some of them are almost completely red on their belly and sides; others are much whiter than the Salmon, and none of them have the dark spots that are typical of the other. Their flesh, roe, and every other aspect regarding them is similar to that of the Salmon. We didn't see this fish until we went below the Great Falls of the Columbia; however, I'm unsure whether they are only found in this part of the river or if they're present in other seasons, too.
The Salmon Trout are Seldom more than two feet in length, they are narrow in purportion to their length, at least much more So than the Salmon & red charr. their jaws are nearly of the Same length, and are furnished with a Single Series of Subulate Streight teeth, not so long or so large as those of the Salmon, the mouth is wide, and the tongue is also furnished with Some teeth. the fins are placed much like those of the Salmon. at the Great Falls are met with this fish of a Silvery white colour on the belly and Sides, and a blueish light brown on the back and head. in this neighbourhood we have met with another Species which does not differ from the other in any particular except in point of Colour. this last is of a dark colour on the back, and its Sides and belley are yellow with transverse Stripes of dark brown. Sometimes a little red is intermixed with these Colours on the belly and Sides towards the head. the flesh & roe is like those described of the Salmon. the white Species which we found below the falls were in excellent order when the Salmon were entirely out of Season and not fit for use. The Species which we found here early in november on our arival in this quarter had declined considerably, reather more so than the Red charr with which we found them asociated in the little riverlets and creeks. I think it may be Safely asserted that the Red Charr and both Species of the Salmon trout remain in Season longer in the fall of the year than the common Salmon; but I have my doubt whether of the Species of the Salmon trout ever pass the Great falls of the Columbia. The Indians tell us that the Salmon begin to run early in the next month; it will be unfortunate for us if they do not, for they must form our principal dependance for food in assending the Columbia above the Falls and it's S. E. branch Lewis's river to the Mountains.
The Salmon Trout are usually no more than two feet long and are narrower in proportion to their length, much more so than Salmon and red char. Their jaws are almost the same length and have a single row of straight, slender teeth, which aren’t as long or as large as those of the Salmon. The mouth is wide, and the tongue also has some teeth. The fins are positioned similarly to those of the Salmon. At the Great Falls, you can find this fish with a silvery-white belly and sides, and a bluish light brown back and head. We’ve also encountered another species in this area that doesn’t differ from the first in any significant way except for its color. This one has a dark back, while its sides and belly are yellow with dark brown stripes. Sometimes there’s a bit of red mixed in with the belly and sides towards the head. The flesh and roe are similar to those of the Salmon. The white species we found below the falls were in great condition when the Salmon were entirely out of season and not suitable for use. The species we encountered here when we arrived in early November had significantly declined, even more so than the Red char that we found alongside them in the small streams and creeks. I think it’s safe to say that the Red char and both species of Salmon trout stay in season longer in the fall than common Salmon do; however, I doubt whether any of the Salmon trout species ever pass the Great Falls of the Columbia. The Indians tell us that the Salmon start to run early next month; it would be unfortunate for us if they don’t, as they would be our main source of food while traveling up the Columbia above the Falls and its southeast branch, Lewis's River, to the mountains.
The Speckled or Mountain Trout are found in the waters of the Columbia within the Rocky mountains. they are the Same of those found in the upper part of the Missouri, but are not So abundent in the Columbian Waters as in that river. The bottle nose is also found on the waters of the Columbia within the mountains.
The Speckled or Mountain Trout are found in the waters of the Columbia River in the Rocky Mountains. They are the same species as those found in the upper part of the Missouri River, but they are not as abundant in the Columbia's waters as they are in that river. The bottlenose is also present in the Columbia's mountain waters.
[Lewis, March 14, 1806]
Friday March 14th 1806. This morning we sent a party after the two Elk which Collins killed last evening, they returned with them about noon. Collins, Jos. Fends and Shannon went in quest of the flock of Elk of which Collins had killed those two. this evening we heared upwards of twenty shot, and expect that they have fallen in with and killed a number of them. Reubin Fields and Thompson returned this evening unsuccessfull having killed one brant only. late in the evening Drewyer arrived with a party of the Clatsops who brought an indifferent canoe some hats and roots for sale. the hats and roots we purchased, but could not obtain the canoe without giving more than our stock of merchandize would lisence us. I offered him my laced uniform coat but he would not exchange. The Salmon Trout are seldom more than two feet in length they are narrow in proportion to their length, at least much more so than the Salmon or red charr. the jaws are nearly of the same length, and are furnished with a single series of small subulate streight teeth, not so long or as large as those of the Salmon. the mouth is wide, and the tongue is also furnished with some teeth. the fins are placed much like those of the salmon. at the great falls we met with this fish of a silvery white colour on the belley and sides, and a bluish light brown on the back and head. in this neighbourhood we have met with another speceis which dose not differ from the other in any particular except in point of colour. this last is of a dark colour on the back, and it's sides and belley are yellow with transverse stripes of dark brown. sometimes a little red is intermixed with these colours on the belley and sides towards the head. the eye, flesh, and roes are like those discribed of the Salmon. the white speceis which we found below the falls was in excellent order when the salmon were entirely out of season and not fit for uce. the speceis which we found here on our arrival early in November had declined considerably, reather more so inded than the red Charr with which we found them ascociated in the little rivulets and creeks. I think it may be safely asserted that the red Charr and both speceis of the salmon trout remain in season longer in the fall of the year than the common Salmon; but I have my doubts whether either of them ever pass the great falls of the Columbia. The Indians tell us that the Salmon begin to run early in the next month; it will be unfortunate for us if they do not, for they must form our principal dependence for food in ascending the Columbia, above the falls and it's S. E. branch to the mountains. The mountain or speckled trout are found in the waters of the Columbia within the mountains. they are the same of those found in the upper part of the Missouri, but are not so abundant in the Columbia as on that river. we never saw this fish below the mountains but from the transparency and coldness of the Kooskooske I should not doubt it's existing in that stream as low as it's junction with the S E. branch of the Columbia.—The bottle nose is the same with that before mentioned on the Missouri and is found exclusively within the mountains.
Friday, March 14, 1806. This morning, we sent a group after the two elk that Collins killed last night, and they returned with them around noon. Collins, Jos. Fends, and Shannon went in search of the herd of elk from which Collins had killed those two. This evening we heard over twenty shots and expect that they encountered and killed several of them. Reubin Fields and Thompson returned this evening unsuccessful, having only killed one brant. Late in the evening, Drewyer arrived with a group of Clatsops who brought a poor-quality canoe, some hats, and roots for sale. We bought the hats and roots but couldn’t get the canoe without offering more than our supplies allowed. I offered him my laced uniform coat, but he wouldn’t trade. The salmon trout rarely grow more than two feet long and are narrow relative to their length, significantly more so than salmon or red char. Their jaws are almost the same length and have a single row of small, straight, subulate teeth, which aren’t as long or large as those of the salmon. The mouth is wide, and the tongue also has some teeth. The fins are positioned similarly to those of the salmon. At the great falls, we encountered this fish with a silvery white belly and sides, and a bluish light brown back and head. In this area, we found another species that differs only in color. This one has a dark back, while its sides and belly are yellow with dark brown stripes. Sometimes, there’s a bit of red mixed in with these colors on the belly and sides near the head. The eye, flesh, and roe are similar to those described for the salmon. The white species we found below the falls was in excellent condition when the salmon were completely out of season and not fit for use. The species we found upon our arrival in early November had declined significantly, more so indeed than the red char with which we found them associated in the small streams and creeks. I believe it can be confidently stated that the red char and both species of salmon trout are in season later into the fall than the common salmon; however, I have doubts about whether either of them ever passes the great falls of the Columbia. The Indians tell us that the salmon begin to run early next month; it would be unfortunate for us if they don't, as they must be our primary source of food while navigating up the Columbia above the falls and its southeast branch into the mountains. Mountain or speckled trout are found in the waters of the Columbia within the mountains. They are the same as those found in the upper part of the Missouri but are not as plentiful in the Columbia as in that river. We never saw this fish below the mountains, but due to the transparency and coldness of the Kooskooske, I wouldn’t doubt its presence in that stream as low as its junction with the southeast branch of the Columbia. The bottle nose is the same as that previously mentioned in the Missouri and is found exclusively within the mountains.
[Clark, March 14, 1806]
Friday March 14th 1806 This morning we dispatched a party after two Elk which Collins killed last evening, they returned with them about noon. Jos. Field, Collins, Go. Shannon & Labiesh went in quest of the Gang of Elk out of which Collins had killed the 2 yesterday. this evening we herd upwards of twenty Shot and expect they have fallen in with and killed Several of them. Reuben Field and Thompson returned this evening unsuksessfull haveing killed only one Brant. late in the evening Geo. Drewyer arrived with a party of the Clatsops who brought an indifferent Canoe, three hats and Some roots for Sale we could not purchase the Canoe without giveing more than our Stock of merchandize would lisence us. Capt Lewis offered his laced uniform Coat for a verry indiferent Canoe, agreeable to their usial way of tradeing his price was double. we are informed by the Clatsops that they have latterly Seen an Indian from the Quin-na-chart Nation who reside Six days march to the N. W and that four vessles were there and the owners Mr. Haley, Moore, Callamon & Swipeton were tradeing with that noumerous nation, whale bone Oile and Skins of various discription.
Friday, March 14th, 1806 This morning, we sent a group out after two elk that Collins killed last night, and they returned with them around noon. Jos. Field, Collins, Go. Shannon, and Labiesh went searching for the herd of elk from which Collins had killed the two yesterday. This evening, we heard over twenty shots and expect they encountered and killed several of them. Reuben Field and Thompson came back this evening unsuccessful, having only killed one brant. Late in the evening, Geo. Drewyer arrived with a group of Clatsops who brought a poor-quality canoe, three hats, and some roots for sale. We couldn't buy the canoe without offering more than our stock of merchandise would allow. Capt. Lewis offered his laced uniform coat for a very mediocre canoe, which was double their usual trading price. The Clatsops informed us that recently they saw an Indian from the Quin-na-chart nation, who live six days' march to the northwest, and that four vessels were there with owners Mr. Haley, Moore, Callamon, and Swipeton trading with that numerous nation, dealing in whale bone, oil, and various types of skins.
[Lewis, March 15, 1806]
Saturday March 15th 1806. This morning at 11 OCk. the hunters arrived, having killed four Elk only. Labuish it seems was the only hunter who fell in with the Elk and having by some accedent lost the fore sight of his gun shot a great number of times but killed only the number mentioned. as the elk were scattered we sent two parties for them, they returned in the evening with four skins and the flesh of three Elk, that of one of them having become putrid from the liver and pluck having been carelessly left in the animal all night. we were visited this afternoon by Delashshelwilt a Chinnook Chief his wife and six women of his nation which the old baud his wife had brought for market. this was the same party that had communicated the venerial to so many of our party in November last, and of which they have finally recovered. I therefore gave the men a particular charge with rispect to them which they promised me to observe. late this evening we were also visited by Catel a Clatsop man and his family. he brought a canoe and a Sea Otter Skin for sale neither of which we purchased this evening. The Clatsops who had brought a canoe for sale last evening left us early this morning.- Bratton still sick.
Saturday, March 15, 1806. This morning at 11:00, the hunters arrived, having killed only four elk. It seems that Labuish was the only hunter who encountered the elk, and after accidentally losing the front sight of his gun, he fired a lot of shots but only managed to get the number mentioned. Since the elk were scattered, we sent two groups to search for them, and they returned in the evening with four skins and the meat of three elk, although the meat from one of them had spoiled because the liver and guts were carelessly left in the animal overnight. This afternoon, we were visited by Delashshelwilt, a Chinook chief, his wife, and six women from his tribe, whom the old woman had brought to trade. This was the same group that had spread STD to many of our party last November, and they have finally recovered. I therefore gave the men specific instructions regarding them, which they promised to follow. Later this evening, we were also visited by Catel, a Clatsop man, and his family. He brought a canoe and a sea otter skin for sale, but we didn’t buy either of them this evening. The Clatsops who had brought a canoe for sale last evening left us early this morning. Bratton is still sick.
There is a third speceis of brant in the neighbourhood of this place which is about the size and much the form of the pided brant. they weigh about 81/2 lbs. the wings are not as long nor so pointed as those of the common pided brant. the following is a likeness of it's head and beak. a little distance around the base of the beak is white and is suddonly succeeded by a narrow line of dark brown. the ballance of the neck, head, back, wings, and tail all except the tips of the feathers are of the bluish brown of the common wild goose. the breast and belly are white with an irregular mixture of black feathers which give that part a pided appearance. from the legs back underneath the tail, and arond the junction of the same with the body above, the feathers are white. the tail is composed of 18 feathers; the longest of which are in the center and measure 6 Inches with the barrel of the quill; those sides of the tail are something shorter and bend with their extremeties inwards towards the center of the tail. the extremities of these feathers are white. the beak is of a light flesh colour. the legs and feet which do not differ in structure from those of the goose or brant of the other speceis, are of an orrange yellow colour. the eye is small; the iris is a dark yellowish brown, and pupil black. the note of this brant is much that of the common pided brant from which in fact they are not to be distinguished at a distance, but they certainly are a distinct speis of brant. the flesh of this fowl is as good as that of the common pided brant. they not remain here during the winter in such numbers as the white brant do, tho they have now returned in considerable quantities. first saw them below tide-water.
There’s a third species of brant near this place that’s about the size and shape of the pied brant. They weigh around 8.5 lbs. Their wings aren't as long or as pointed as those of the common pied brant. Here’s a picture of its head and beak. A little distance from the base of the beak is white, which is suddenly followed by a narrow line of dark brown. The rest of the neck, head, back, wings, and tail, except for the tips of the feathers, are a bluish-brown like that of the common wild goose. The breast and belly are white with a random mixture of black feathers that give that area a pied appearance. From the legs to underneath the tail, and around the junction of the tail with the body above, the feathers are white. The tail has 18 feathers; the longest ones are in the center and measure 6 inches from the quill barrel. The feathers on the sides of the tail are slightly shorter and curve inwards towards the center. The tips of these feathers are white. The beak is a light flesh color. The legs and feet, which are structured similarly to those of the goose or other species of brant, are orange-yellow. The eye is small; the iris is a dark yellowish-brown, and the pupil is black. The call of this brant is very much like that of the common pied brant, and they can’t be distinguished from a distance, but they are definitely a distinct species of brant. The meat of this bird is as good as that of the common pied brant. They don’t stay here during the winter in as large numbers as the white brant do, although they have now returned in significant quantities. I first spotted them below tidewater.
[Clark, March 15, 1806]
Saturday March 15th 1806 This morning at 11 oClock the hunters arived, haveing Killed four Elk only. Labiesh it Seams was the only Hunter who fell in with the Elk and haveing by some accident lost the foresight of his gun Shot a great number of times and only killed four. as the Elk were scattered we Sent two parties for them, they return in the evening with four Skins, and the flesh of three Elk, that of one of them haveing become putred from the liver and pluck haveing been carelessly left in the Animal all night. We were visited this Afternoon in a Canoe 4 feet 2 I. wide by De-lash-hel-wilt a Chinnook Chief his wife and Six women of his Nation, which the Old Boud his wife had brought for Market. this was the Same party which had communicated the venereal to Several of our party in November last, and of which.they have finally recovered. I therefore gave the men a particular Charge with respect to them which they promised me to observe. late this evening we were also visited by Ca-tel a Clatsop man and his family. he brought a Canoe and a Sea Otter Skin for Sale neither of which we could purchase of him. the Clatsops which had brought a Canoe for Sale last evening left us this morning. Bratten is still very weak and unwell.
Saturday, March 15, 1806 This morning at 11 o'clock, the hunters arrived, having killed only four elk. Labiesh seemed to be the only hunter who came across the elk, and after accidentally losing the foresight of his gun, he shot many times but only managed to kill four. Since the elk were scattered, we sent out two groups to find them, and they returned in the evening with four skins and the meat of three elk. The meat of one of them had spoiled because the liver and pluck were carelessly left in the animal all night. This afternoon, we were visited in a canoe that was 4 feet 2 inches wide by De-lash-hel-wilt, a Chinook chief, his wife, and six women from his nation, whom the old chief’s wife had brought for market. This was the same group that had transmitted venereal disease to several members of our party last November, and they have finally recovered. I therefore gave the men specific instructions regarding them, which they promised to follow. Late this evening, we were also visited by Ca-tel, a Clatsop man, and his family. He brought a canoe and a sea otter skin for sale, but we couldn’t purchase either. The Clatsops who brought a canoe for sale last evening left us this morning. Bratten is still very weak and unwell.
There is a third Species of Brant in the neighbourhood of this place which is about the Size and much the form of the bided brant. they weigh about 81/2 lbs. the wings are not as long nor So pointed as the Common pided brant. the following is a likeness of its head and beak. a little distance arround the base of the beak is white and is Suddenly Succeeded by a narrow line of dark brown. the ballance of the neck, head, back, wings and tail all except the tips of the feathers are of the blueish brown of the Common wild goose, the breast and belly are white with an irregular mixture of black feathers which give that part a pided appearance. from the legs back underneath the tail, and around the junction of the Same with the body above, the feathers are white. the tail is composed of 18 feathers; the longest of which are in the center and measure 6 inches with the barrel of the quill; those on the Side of the tail are Something Shorter and bend with their extremities inwards towards the center of the tail. the extremities of these feathers are white. the beak is of a light flesh colour. the legs and feet which do not differ in Structure from those of the Goose or brant of the other Species, are of an orrange yellow Colour. the eye is Small; the iris is of a dark yellowish brown, and puple black. the note of this brant is much that of the common pided brant from which in fact they are not to be distinguished at a distance, but they Certainly are a distinct Species of brant. the flesh of this fowl is as good as that of the Common pided brant. they do not remain here dureing the winter in Such numbers as the white brant do, tho they have now returned in Considerable quantities. we first met with this brant on tide water.
There’s a third type of brant around here that is about the size and shape of the pied brant. They weigh around 8.5 lbs. Their wings aren’t as long or as pointed as those of the common pied brant. Here’s a description of its head and beak: a little distance around the base of the beak is white, which is suddenly followed by a narrow line of dark brown. The rest of the neck, head, back, wings, and tail, except for the tips of the feathers, are a bluish-brown color like that of the common wild goose. The breast and belly are white with an irregular mix of black feathers that give that area a pied look. From the legs back underneath the tail, and around the junction of the tail with the body above, the feathers are white. The tail has 18 feathers; the longest ones in the center measure 6 inches, including the quill shaft; those on the sides of the tail are slightly shorter and curve inward toward the center of the tail. The tips of these feathers are white. The beak is a light flesh color. The legs and feet, which are similar in structure to those of the goose or other brant species, are an orange-yellow color. The eye is small; the iris is a dark yellowish-brown, and the pupil is black. The call of this brant is quite similar to that of the common pied brant, and from a distance, you can’t really tell them apart, but they are definitely a distinct species of brant. The meat of this bird is just as good as that of the common pied brant. They don’t stick around here in the winter as much as the white brant do, although they have returned in considerable numbers now. We first came across this brant in tidal waters.
The Clams of this coast are very Small. the Shells consist of two valves which open with a hinge, the Shell is Smooth thin and of an oval form or like that of the Common Muscle and of a Skye blue colour; it is of every Size under a Inch & 3/4 in length, and hangs in clusters to the moss of the rocks, the nativs Sometimes eate them.—The Periwinkle both of the river and Ocian are Similar to those found in the Same Situation on the Atlantic.—there is also an Animal which inhabits a Shell perfectly circular about 3 inches in diameetor, thin and entire on the marjin, convex and Smooth on the upper Side, plain on the under part and covered with a number of minute Capillary fibers by means of which it attaches itself to the Sides of the rocks. the Shell is thin and Consists of one valve. a Small circular opperture is formed in the Center of the under Shell the Animal is Soft and boneless &c.-.
The clams on this coast are very small. Their shells have two halves that open on a hinge, are smooth, thin, and oval-shaped, similar to that of the common mussel, and have a sky blue color. They vary in size but are all under an inch and three-quarters long, and they cluster together on the moss of the rocks. The locals sometimes eat them. The periwinkles from both the river and ocean are similar to those found in the same places on the Atlantic. There’s also an animal that lives in a perfectly round shell about three inches in diameter, thin and complete around the edge, convex and smooth on the top, flat underneath, and covered with numerous tiny hair-like fibers that help it attach to the sides of the rocks. The shell is thin and has just one half. A small circular hole is made in the center of the underside of the shell, and the animal is soft and boneless, etc.
[Lewis, March 16, 1806]
Sunday March 16th 1806. Not any occurrence worthy of relation took place today. Drewyer and party did not return from the Cathlahmahs this evening as we expected. we suppose he was detained by the hard winds of today. the Indians remained with us all day, but would not dispose of their canoes at a price which it was in our power to give consistently with the state of our Stock of Merchandize. two handkercheifs would now contain all the small articles of merchandize which we possess; the ballance of the stock consists of 6 blue robes one scarlet do. one uniform artillerist's coat and hat, five robes made of our large flag, and a few old cloaths trimed with ribbon. on this stock we have wholy to depend for the purchase of horses and such portion of our subsistence from the Indians as it will be in our powers to obtain. a scant dependence indeed, for a tour of the distance of that before us. the Clam of this coast are very small. the shell consists of two valves which open with a hinge. the shell is smooth thin of an oval form or like that of the common mussle, and sky blue colour. it is about 11/2 inches in length, and hangs in clusters to the moss of the rocks. the natives sometimes eat them. the perewinkle both of the river and Ocean are similar to those found in the same situations on the Atlantic coast. the common mussle of the river are also the same with those in the rivers of the atlantic coast. the cockle is small and also much the same of the Atlantic. there is also an animal which inhabits a shell perfectly circular about 3 Inches in diameter, thin and entire on the margin, convex and smooth on the upper side, plain on the under part and covered with a number minute capillary fibers by means of which it attatches itself to the sides of the rocks. the shell is thin and consists of one valve. a small circular apperture is formed in the center of the under shell. the animal is soft & boneless.
Sunday, March 16th, 1806. Nothing noteworthy happened today. Drewyer and his group didn’t return from the Cathlahmahs this evening as we had expected. We think he was delayed by today’s strong winds. The Indians stayed with us all day, but wouldn’t sell their canoes for a price we could afford given our inventory of goods. Two handkerchiefs would now hold all the small items we have; the rest of our stock includes 6 blue robes, one red one, one uniform artillerist's coat and hat, five robes made from our large flag, and a few old clothes trimmed with ribbon. We have to rely entirely on this stock to buy horses and whatever part of our food supply we can get from the Indians. It's a very limited resource for the journey ahead of us. The clams on this coast are very small. The shell has two halves that open with a hinge. The shell is smooth, thin, oval-shaped, similar to that of the common mussel, and sky blue in color. It measures about 1.5 inches in length and hangs in clusters on the moss of the rocks. The natives sometimes eat them. The periwinkles found in both the river and the ocean are similar to those on the Atlantic coast. The common mussels in the river are also the same as those in the rivers on the Atlantic coast. The cockles are small and also quite similar to those on the Atlantic. There is also an animal that lives in a perfectly circular shell about 3 inches in diameter, which is thin and smooth on the edges, convex and smooth on the top, plain on the bottom, and covered with minute capillary fibers that allow it to attach itself to the sides of rocks. The shell is thin and has just one half. A small circular opening is formed in the center of the underside. The animal is soft and has no bones.
The white Salmon Trout which we had previously seen only at the great falls of the Columbia has now made it's appearance in the creeks near this place. one of them was brought us today by an Indian who had just taken it with his gig. this is a likness of it; it was 2 feet 8 Inches long, and weighed 10 lbs. the eye is moderately large, the puple black and iris of a silvery white with a small addmixture of yellow, and is a little terbid near it's border with a yellowish brown. the position of the fins may be seen from the drawing, they are small in proportion to the fish. the fins are boney but not pointed except the tail and back fins which are a little so, the prime back fin and ventral ones, contain each ten rays; those of the gills thirteen, that of the tail twelve, and the small fin placed near the tail above has no bony rays, but is a tough flexable substance covered with smooth skin. it is thicker in proportion to it's width than the salmon. the tongu is thick and firm beset on each border with small subulate teeth in a single series. the teeth of the mouth are as before discribed. neither this fish nor the salmon are caught with the hook, nor do I know on what they feed.
The white salmon trout that we had only seen at the great falls of the Columbia has now shown up in the creeks around here. One of them was brought to us today by an Indian who had just caught it with his gig. This is a likeness of it; it was 2 feet 8 inches long and weighed 10 lbs. The eye is moderately large, with a black pupil and an iris that's silvery white with a slight hint of yellow, and it looks a little cloudy near the edge with a yellowish brown. You can see the position of the fins in the drawing; they are small compared to the size of the fish. The fins are bony but not pointed, except for the tail and back fins, which are a bit pointy. The main back fin and the ventral fins each have ten rays; the gills have thirteen, the tail has twelve, and the small fin just above the tail has no bony rays but is made of a tough, flexible substance covered with smooth skin. It is thicker relative to its width than the salmon. The tongue is thick and firm, with small, needle-like teeth along each edge in a single row. The teeth in the mouth are as previously described. Neither this fish nor the salmon are caught with a hook, and I don’t know what they eat.
[Clark, March 16, 1806]
Sunday March 16th 1806 Not any occurrence worthy of relation took place today. Drewyer and party did not return from the Cath lah mah's this evening as we expected. we Suppose he was detained by the hard winds today. the Indians remain with us all day, but would not dispose of their Canoe at a price which it was in our power to give consistently with the State of our Stock of Merchandize. One handkerchief would contain all the Small articles of merchandize which we possess, the ballance of the Stock Consists of 6 Small blue robes or Blankets one of Scarlet. one uniform Artillerist's Coat and hat, 5 robes made of our larg flag, and a fiew our old Clothes trimed with ribon. on this Stock we have wholy to depend for the purchase of horses and Such portion of our Subsistence from the Indians as it will be in our power to obtain. a scant dependence indeed for the tour of the distance of that before us.
Sunday, March 16th, 1806 Nothing significant happened today. Drewyer and his group didn’t return from the Cathlahmah's this evening as we expected. We think he was held up by the strong winds today. The Indians stayed with us all day but wouldn’t sell their canoe at a price we could afford based on our stock of goods. A single handkerchief would hold all the small items we have, and the rest of our stock consists of six small blue robes or blankets, one scarlet one, a uniform artillery coat and hat, five robes made from our large flag, and a few of our old clothes trimmed with ribbon. We have to rely entirely on this stock to buy horses and any food we can get from the Indians. It’s a pretty meager supply considering the distance we have to travel.
The pellucid jelly like Substance, called the Sea nettle I found in great abundance along the Strand where it has been thrown up by the waves and tide, and adheres to the Sand.
The clear, jelly-like substance called the sea nettle was abundant along the shore, washed up by the waves and tide, and sticking to the sand.
There are two Species of the Fuci, or (Seawead) Seawreck which we also found thrown up by the waves. the 1st Specie at one extremity consists of a large sesicle or hollow vessale which would contain from one to 2 gallons, of a conic form, the base of which forms the extreem End and is convex and Globelar bearing on its center Some Short broad and irregular fibers. the Substance is about the consistancy of the rind of a citron Mellon and 3/4 of an inch thick, yellow celindrick, and regularly tapering the tube extends to 20 or 30 feet and is then termonated with a number of branches which are flat 1/2 inch in width, rough particularly on the edges, where they are furnished with a number of little oval vesicles or bags of the Size of a Pigions egg. this plant Seams to be calculated to float at each extremity, while the little end of the tube from whence the branches proceed, lies deepest in the water.
There are two species of Fucus, or seaweed, that we also found washed up by the waves. The first species has a large, hollow sac at one end that can hold about one to two gallons. It has a cone shape, with the base forming the pointed end, which is rounded and globular, featuring some short, broad, and irregular fibers in the center. The texture is similar to that of the rind of a citrus melon and about three-quarters of an inch thick, yellowish, cylindrical, and tapering evenly. The tube can extend 20 to 30 feet, ending with several branches that are flat and half an inch wide, rough especially along the edges, where they have a number of small oval sacs or bags the size of a pigeon’s egg. This plant appears to be designed to float at both ends, while the narrower end of the tube, from which the branches originate, sinks deeper in the water.
The white Salmon Trout which we had previously seen only at the Great Falls of the Columbia, or a little below the Great Falls, has now made its appearance in the creeks near this place. one of them was brought us to day by an indian who had just taken it with his gig. This is a likeness of it; it was 2 feet 8 inches long, and weighed ten pounds. the eye is moderately large, the puple black with a Small admixture of yellow and the iris of a Silvery white with a Small admixture of yellow and a little tirbed near its border with a yellowish brown. the position of the fins may be seen from the drawing, they are small in perpotion to the fish. the fins are honey but not pointed except the tail and back fins which are a little So, the prime back fin and venteral ones, contain each ten rays; those of the gills twelve, and the Small Finn placed near the tail above has no long rays, but is a tough flexable Substance covered with Smooth Skin. it is thicker in perpotion to it's width than the Salmons. the tongue is thick and firm beset on each border with small subulate teeth in a Single Series. the Teeth of the mouth are as before discribed. neither this fish nor the Salmon are cought with the hook, nor do I know on what they feed.-now begin to run &c. &c.
The white salmon trout, which we had previously only seen at the Great Falls of the Columbia or just below them, has now appeared in the creeks near this area. An Indian brought one to us today that he had just caught with his gig. This is a likeness of it; it was 2 feet 8 inches long and weighed ten pounds. The eye is moderately large, with a black pupil that has a small mix of yellow, and the iris is a silvery white with a little yellow and some brownish tint near its edge. You can see the fins' position from the drawing; they are small in proportion to the fish. The fins are rounded but not pointed, except for the tail and the dorsal fins, which are slightly pointed. The primary dorsal fin and the ventral fins each have ten rays; the gills have twelve, and the small fin near the tail above has no long rays but is a tough, flexible material covered with smooth skin. It is thicker in proportion to its width than the salmon. The tongue is thick and firm, with small, needle-like teeth along each edge in a single row. The teeth in the mouth are as previously described. Neither this fish nor the salmon are caught with hooks, nor do I know what they feed on. Now they begin to run, etc. etc.
[Lewis, March 17, 1806]
Monday March 17th 1806. Catel and his family left us this morning. Old Delashelwilt and his women still remain they have formed a camp near the fort and seem to be determined to lay close sege to us but I beleive notwithstanding every effort of their wining graces, the men have preserved their constancy to the vow of celibacy which they made on this occasion to Capt C. and myself. we have had our perogues prepared for our departer, and shal set out as soon as the weather will permit. the weather is so precarious that we fear by waiting untill the first of April that we might be detained several days longer before we could get from this to the Cathlahmahs as it must be calm or we cannot accomplish that part of our rout. Drewyer returned late this evening from the Cathlahmahs with our canoe which Sergt. Pryor had left some days since, and also a canoe which he had purchased from those people. for this canoe he gave my uniform laced coat and nearly half a carrot of tobacco. it seems that nothing excep this coat would induce them to dispose of a canoe which in their mode of traffic is an article of the greatest value except a wife, with whom it is equal, and is generally given in exchange to the father for his daughter. I think the U States are indebted to me another Uniform coat, for that of which I have disposed on this occasion was but little woarn.—we yet want another canoe, and as the Clatsops will not sell us one at a price which we can afford to give we will take one from them in lue of the six Elk which they stole from us in the winter.-
Monday, March 17th, 1806. Catel and his family left us this morning. Old Delashelwilt and his women are still here; they’ve set up a camp near the fort and seem determined to lay siege to us. However, I believe that despite their charms, the men have stuck to their vow of celibacy that they made to Capt. C. and me. We’ve had our canoes prepared for our departure and will set out as soon as the weather allows. The weather is so unpredictable that we worry if we wait until the first of April, we might be delayed several more days before we can get from here to the Cathlahmahs, since it needs to be calm for us to complete that part of our route. Drewyer returned late this evening from the Cathlahmahs with our canoe that Sgt. Pryor had left a few days ago, and also a canoe he bought from those people. For this canoe, he traded my uniform laced coat and nearly half a carrot of tobacco. It seems that nothing but this coat would convince them to part with a canoe, which in their trade is one of the most valuable items, second only to a wife, and is generally given in exchange to the father for his daughter. I think the U.S. owes me another uniform coat because the one I traded this time was hardly worn. We still need another canoe, and since the Clatsops won't sell us one at a price we can afford, we're planning to take one from them in exchange for the six elk they stole from us last winter.
The pellucid jellylike substance, called the sea-nettle is found in great abundance along the strad where it has been thrown up by the waves and tide.
The clear, jelly-like substance known as the sea nettle is found in large quantities along the shore where it has been washed up by the waves and tides.
There are two speceis of the Fuci or seawreckwhich we also find thrown up by the waves. the 1st speceis at one extremity consists of a large vesicle or hollow vessell which would contain from one to two gallons, of a conic form, the base of which forms the extreem end and is convex and globelar bearing on it's center some short broad and irregular fibers. the substance is about the consistence of the rind of a citron mellon and 3/4 of an inch thick. the rihind is smooth. from the small extremity of the cone a long, hollow, celindrick, and regularly tapering tube extends to 20 or thirty feet and is then terminated with a number of branches which are flat 1/2 an inch in width rough particular on the edges where they are furnished with a number of little ovate vesicles or bags of the size of a pigeon's egg. this plant seems to be calculated to float at each extremity while the little end of the tube from whence the branches proceed, lies deepest in the water.
There are two species of Fucus or seaweed that we also find washed up by the waves. The first species has a large, hollow part at one end that can hold about one to two gallons; it’s cone-shaped, with the base at the very tip being rounded and bulbous, featuring some short, broad, irregular fibers in the center. The texture is similar to the skin of a citron melon and is about three-quarters of an inch thick. The surface is smooth. From the smaller end of the cone, a long, hollow, cylindrical tube extends, tapering regularly for about 20 to 30 feet, and it ends in several branches that are flat and half an inch wide, especially rough along the edges where they are covered with small oval sacs the size of a pigeon's egg. This plant appears designed to float at both ends, while the smaller end of the tube, from which the branches emerge, remains deeper in the water.
The other speceis I have never seen but Capt. Clark who saw it on the coast towards the Killamucks informed me that it resembled a large pumpkin, it is solid and it's specific gravity reather greater than the water, tho it is sometimes thrown out by the waves. it is of a yellowis brown colour. the rhind smooth and consistence harder than that of a pumpkin tho easily cut with a knife. there are some dark brown fibers reather harder than any other part which pass longitudinally through the pulp or fleshey substance wich forms the interior of this marine production.The following is a list of the names of the commanders of vessels who visit the entrance of the Columbia river in the spring and autumn fror the purpose of trading with the natives or hunting Elk. these names are spelt as the Indians pronounce them.
The other species I've never seen, but Capt. Clark, who spotted it on the coast near the Killamucks, told me it looked like a large pumpkin. It's solid, and its specific gravity is somewhat greater than that of water, although it sometimes gets tossed around by the waves. It's a yellowish-brown color, with a smooth rind that's harder than that of a pumpkin but can be easily cut with a knife. There are some dark brown fibers that are tougher than the rest, running lengthwise through the pulp or fleshy part that makes up the inside of this marine item. Below is a list of the names of the ship captains who visit the entrance of the Columbia River in the spring and autumn to trade with the natives or hunt elk. These names are spelled as the Indians pronounce them.
Mr. Haley, their favorite trader visits them in a vessel with three masts, and continues some time
Mr. Haley, their favorite trader, visits them in a ship with three masts and stays for a while.
Youens, visits in a 3 masted vessel- Trader Tallamon do. 3 do. no trader Callallamet do. 3 do. Trader. has a wooden leg. Swipton do. 3 do. Trader. Moore do. 4 do. do. Mackey do. 3 do. do. Washington do. 3 do. do. Mesship do. 3 do. do. Davidson do. 2
Youens, visits in a three-masted ship - Trader Tallamon does. Three times. No trader Callallamet does. Three times. Trader has a wooden leg. Swipton does. Three times. Trader. Moore does. Four times. Does. Mackey does. Three times. Does. Washington does. Three times. Does. Mesship does. Three times. Does. Davidson does. Two.
no trader hunts Elk Jackson do. 3 masted vessel Trader Bolch do. 3 do. do. Skelley do. 3 do. do. tho he has been gone some years. he has one eye.
no trader hunts Elk Jackson do. 3 masted vessel Trader Bolch do. 3 do. do. Skelley do. 3 do. do. though he has been gone some years. he has one eye.
[Clark, March 17, 1806]
Monday March 17th 1806 Catel and his family left us this morning. Old Delashelwill and his women still remain, they have formed a Camp near the fort and Seam determined to lay Close Sege to us, but I believe notwithstanding every effort of their wining graces, the men have preserved their constancy to the vow of celibacy which they made on this Occasion to Capt L. and my self. we have had our Canoes prepared for our departure, and Shall Set out as Soon as the weather will permit. the weather is So precarious that we fear by waiting untill the first of April that we might be detained Several days longer before we could get from this to the Cath-lah-mahs, as it must be Calm or we cannot accomplish that part of the rout in our Canoes. Drewyer returned late this evening from the Cath-lah-mahs with our Indian Canoe which Sergt. Pryor had left Some days since, and also a Canoe, which he had purchased from those people. for this canoe he gave Captn. Lewis's uniform laced coat and nearly half a Carrot of to-bacco. it Seams that nothing except this Coat would induce them to dispose of a Canoe which in their mode of traffic is an article of the greatest value except a wife, with whome it is nearly equal, and is generally given in exchange to the father for his Daughter. I think that the United States are injustice indebted to Captn Lewis another uniform Coat for that of which he has disposed of on this ocasion, it was but little worn.
Monday, March 17th, 1806. Catel and his family left us this morning. Old Delashelwill and his women are still here; they’ve set up a camp near the fort, and Seam is determined to lay siege to us. However, despite their best efforts, the men have stayed true to the vow of celibacy they made to Captain L. and me. We have our canoes ready for departure and will set out as soon as the weather allows. The weather is so unpredictable that we worry if we wait until the first of April, we might be delayed several more days before getting from here to the Cath-lah-mahs, as it needs to be calm for us to make that part of the journey in our canoes. Drewyer returned late this evening from the Cath-lah-mahs with our Indian canoe that Sergeant Pryor had left a few days ago, as well as another canoe he bought from those people. For this canoe, he gave Captain Lewis’s uniform coat with lace and nearly half a carrot of tobacco. It seems that nothing but this coat would convince them to part with a canoe, which, in their trading system, is one of the most valuable items after a wife; it is generally exchanged with a father for his daughter. I believe that the United States owes Captain Lewis another uniform coat for the one he gave up on this occasion; it was hardly worn.
We yet want another Canoe as the Clatsops will not Sell us one, a proposition has been made by one of our interpt and Several of the party to take one in lieu of 6 Elk which they Stole from us this winter &c.
We still want another canoe since the Clatsops won’t sell us one. One of our interpreters and several people in the group suggested taking one in exchange for the six elk they stole from us this winter, etc.
[Lewis, March 18, 1806]
Tuesday March 18th 1806. Drewyer was taken last night with a violent pain in his side. Capt. Clark blead him. several of the men are complaining of being unwell. it is truly unfortunate that they should be sick at the moment of our departure. we directed Sergt. Pryor to prepare the two Canoes which Drewyer brought last evening for his mess. they wanted some knees to strengthen them and several cracks corked and payed. he completed them except the latter operation which the frequent showers in the course of the day prevented as the canoes could not be made sufficiently dry even with the assistance of fire. Comowooll and two Cathlahmahs visited us today; we suffered them to remain all night. this morning we gave Delashelwilt a certificate of his good deportment &c. and also a list of our names, after which we dispatched him to his village with his female band. These lists of our names we have given to several of the natives and also paisted up a copy in our room. the object of these lists we stated in the preamble of the same as follows (viz) "The object of this list is, that through the medium of some civilized person who may see the same, it may be made known to the informed world, that the party consisting of the persons whose names are hereunto annexed, and who were sent out by the government of the U States in May 1804 to explore the interior of the Continent of North America, did penetrate the same by way of the Missouri and Columbia Rivers, to the discharge of the latter into the Pacific Ocean, where they arrived on the 14th November 1805, and from whence they departed the ____ day of March 1806 on their return to the United States by the same rout they had come out."—on the back of some of these lists we added a sketch of the connection of the upper branches of the Missouri with those of the Columbia, particularly of it's main S. E. branch, on which we also delienated the track we had come and that we meant to pursue on our return where the same happened to vary. There seemed so many chances against our government ever obtaining a regular report, though the medium of the savages and the traders of this coast that we declined making any. our party are also too small to think of leaving any of them to return to the U States by sea, particularly as we shall be necessarily divided into three or four parties on our return in order to accomplish the objects we have in view; and at any rate we shall reach the United States in all human probability much earlier than a man could who must in the event of his being left here depend for his passage to the United States on the traders of the coast who may not return immediately to the U States or if they should, might probably spend the next summer in trading with the natives before they would set out on their return. this evening Drewyer went inquest of his traps, and took an Otter. Joseph Fields killed an Elk.—The Indians repeated to us the names of eighteen distinct tribes residing on the S. E. coast who spoke the Killamucks language, and beyound those six others who spoke a different language which they did not comprehend.
Tuesday, March 18, 1806. Drewyer had a severe pain in his side last night. Capt. Clark bled him. Several of the men are feeling unwell. It's unfortunate that they should be sick just as we are about to leave. We instructed Sergt. Pryor to prepare the two canoes that Drewyer brought last night for his group. They needed some braces to strengthen them, and several cracks sealed and painted. He managed to complete everything except the sealing, as the frequent rain throughout the day made it difficult to get the canoes dry enough, even with the help of fire. Comowooll and two Cathlahmahs came to visit us today; we let them stay the night. This morning we gave Delashelwilt a certificate for his good behavior, along with a list of our names. After that, we sent him back to his village with his female associates. We have shared these name lists with several of the locals and also posted a copy in our room. We stated the purpose of these lists in the introduction, as follows: "The purpose of this list is, so that through some civilized person who may see it, it can be made known to the informed world that the party consisting of the persons whose names are listed here, sent out by the government of the U.S. in May 1804 to explore the interior of North America, traveled through the Missouri and Columbia Rivers to the point where the latter flows into the Pacific Ocean, which they reached on November 14, 1805, and from which they left on the ____ day of March 1806 on their return to the United States via the same route they originally took." On the backs of some of these lists, we included a sketch showing the connection between the upper branches of the Missouri and those of the Columbia, particularly its main southeast branch, where we also marked the path we traveled and the one we plan to take on our return, noting any variations. There seemed to be many obstacles preventing our government from getting a formal report through the natives and traders on this coast, so we decided against it. Our group is also too small to consider leaving any of them to return to the U.S. by sea, especially since we will need to split into three or four parties on our way back to achieve our goals. In any case, we will likely reach the United States much sooner than someone left here would, who would depend on the coastal traders for their passage. These traders may not return to the U.S. immediately or might spend the next summer trading with the locals before setting out on their return. This evening, Drewyer went to check his traps and caught an otter. Joseph Fields killed an elk. The Indians recounted to us the names of eighteen different tribes living on the southeast coast who spoke the Killamucks language, and beyond those, six others who spoke a different language that they did not understand.
[Clark, March 18, 1806]
Tuesday March 17th 1806 Drewyer was taken last night with a violent pain in his Side. I bled him. Several of the men are complaining of being unwell. it is truly unfortunate that they Should be Sick at the moment of our departure. Derected Sergt. Pryor to prepare the two Indian Canoes which we had purchased for his mess. they wanted Some knees to Strengthen them, and Several cracks corked and payed. he compleated them except paying. the frequent Showers of rain prevented the Canoes drying Sufficient to pay them even with the assistance of fire.
Tuesday, March 17, 1806: Drewyer was hit last night with a severe pain in his side. I bled him. Several of the men are saying they feel unwell. It's really unfortunate that they're getting sick just as we're about to leave. I directed Sergeant Pryor to prepare the two Indian canoes we bought for his group. They needed some braces to strengthen them, and several cracks needed to be sealed and treated. He completed everything except for the treatment. The frequent rain showers have made it difficult for the canoes to dry enough to seal them, even with the help of fire.
Commorwool and two Cathlahmahs visited us to day; we Suffered them to remain all night. this morning we gave Delashelwilt a certificate of his good deportment &c. and also a list of our names, after which we dispatched him to his village with his female band. Those list's of our Names we have given to Several of the nativs, and also pasted up a Copy in our room. the Object of these lists we Stated in the preamble of the Same as follows Viz: "The Object of this list is, that through the medium of Some civilized person who may See the Same, it may be made known to the informed world, that the party consisting of the persons whoes names are hereunto annexed, and who were Sent out by the Government of the United States in May 1804, to explore the interior of the Continent of North America, did penetrate the Same by way of the Missouri and Columbia rivers, to the discharge of the latter into the Pacific Ocian, where they arrived on the 14th of November 1805, and from whence they departed the ____ day of March 1806 on their return to the United States by the Same rout they had come out."
Commorwool and two Cathlahmahs visited us today; we let them stay overnight. This morning we gave Delashelwilt a certificate for his good behavior, along with a list of our names. After that, we sent him back to his village with his female group. We’ve given copies of our names to several of the locals and also posted a copy in our room. We stated the purpose of these lists in the introduction as follows: "The purpose of this list is to inform some civilized person who may see it that the group made up of the people whose names are attached below, who were sent out by the Government of the United States in May 1804 to explore the interior of North America, traveled through the Missouri and Columbia rivers to where the latter flows into the Pacific Ocean, arriving there on November 14, 1805, and departed on the ____ day of March 1806 on their return to the United States via the same route they took to get there."
On the back of lists we added a Sketch of the continent of the upper branches of the Missouri with those of the Columbia, particularly of its upper N. E. branch or Lewis's River, on which we also delienated the track we had Came and that we ment to pursue on our return, when the Same happened to vary. There Seemes So many chances against our governments ever obtaining a regular report, through the medium of the Savages, and the traders of this Coast that we decline makeing any. Our party are too small to think of leaveing any of them to return to the Unt. States by Sea, particularly as we Shall be necessarily devided into two or three parties on our return in order to accomplish the Object we have in View; and at any rate we Shall reach the U, States in all humain probabillity much earlier than a man Could who must in the event of his being left here depend for his passage to the U, State on the traders of the Coast, who may not return imediately to the U, States. or if they should, might probably Spend the next Summer in tradeing with the nativs before they would Set out on their return. This evening Drewyer went in quest of his traps, and took an otter. Joseph Field killd and Elk.—The Indians repeated to us Eighteen distinct Nations resideing on the S S. E Coast who Speak the Kil a mox language or understand it. and beyend those Six other Nations which Speak a different language which they did not comprehend.
On the back of the lists, we added a sketch of the continent of the upper branches of the Missouri and those of the Columbia, especially its upper N.E. branch, or Lewis's River. We also outlined the route we had taken and the one we planned to follow on our return, when circumstances changed. There seemed to be so many obstacles preventing our government from ever receiving a proper report via the natives and the traders of this coast that we decided against making one. Our group is too small to consider sending anyone back to the United States by sea, especially since we will need to split into two or three parties on our return to achieve our goals. In any case, we will likely reach the U.S. much sooner than someone who stays here would, as they would have to rely on the coastal traders for their passage back to the U.S., who may not return right away. Even if they do, they might spend the next summer trading with the natives before setting out on their journey home. This evening, Drewyer went to check his traps and caught an otter. Joseph Field killed an elk. The Indians told us that eighteen distinct nations live on the S.S.E. coast who speak the Kiliamox language or understand it, and beyond those, there are six other nations that speak a different language which they did not understand.
The 2d Species of Seawreck which I saw on the coast to the S. S. E. near the Kil a mox nation. it resembles a large pumpkin, it is Solid and it's Specific Gravity reather greater than the water, tho it is Sometimes thrown out by the waves. it is of a pale yellowish brown colour. the rhind Smooth and consistency harder than that of the pumpkin, tho easily cut with a knife. there are Some fibers of a lighter colour and much harder than any other part which pass Longitudinally through the pulp or fleshey Substance which forms the interior of this marine production—
The second type of Seawreck that I saw on the coast to the southeast, near the Kilamox nation, looks like a large pumpkin. It’s solid, and its specific gravity is somewhat greater than that of water, even though it’s sometimes tossed out by the waves. It has a pale yellowish-brown color. The rind is smooth and tougher than that of a pumpkin, but it can be easily cut with a knife. There are some fibers of a lighter color that are much tougher than any other part, running lengthwise through the pulp or fleshy substance that makes up the inside of this marine organism.
[Lewis, March 19, 1806]
Wednesday March 19th 1806. It continued to rain and hail today in such manner that nothing further could be done to the canoes. a pratry were sent out early after the Elk which was killed yesterday with which they returned in the course of a few hours. we gave Comowooll alias Connia, a cirtificate of his good conduct and the friendly intercourse which he has maintained with us during our residence at this place; we also gave him a list of our names.do not. The Killamucks, Clatsops, Chinnooks, Cathlahmahs and Wac-ki-a-cums resemble each other as well in their persons and dress as in their habits and manners.—their complexion is not remarkable, being the usual copper brown of most of the tribes of North America. they are low in statue reather diminutive, and illy shapen; possessing thick broad flat feet, thick ankles, crooked legs wide mouths thick lips, nose moderately large, fleshey, wide at the extremity with large nostrils, black eyes and black coarse hair. their eyes are sometimes of a dark yellowish brown the puple black. I have observed some high acqualine noses among them but they are extreemty rare. the nose is generally low between the eyes.—the most remarkable trait in their physiognomy is the peculiar flatness and width of forehead which they artificially obtain by compressing the head between two boards while in a state of infancy and from which it never afterwards perfectly recovers. this is a custom among all the nations we have met with West of the Rocky mountains. I have observed the heads of many infants, after this singular bandage had been dismissed, or about the age of 10 or eleven months, that were not more than two inches thick about the upper edge of the forehead and reather thiner still higher. from the top of the head to the extremity of the nose is one streight line. this is done in order to give a greater width to the forehead, which they much admire. this process seems to be continued longer with their female than their mail children, and neither appear to suffer any pain from the operation. it is from this peculiar form of the head that the nations East of the Rocky mountains, call all the nations on this side, except the Aliahtans or snake Indians, by the generic name of Flat heads. I think myself that the prevalence of this custom is a strong proof that those nations having originally proceeded from the same stock. The nations of this neighbourhood or those recapitulated above, wear their hair loosly flowing on the back and sholders; both men and women divide it on the center of the crown in front and throw it back behind the ear on each side. they are fond of combs and use them when they can obtain them; and even without the aid of the comb keep their hair in better order than many nations who are in other rispects much more civilized than themselves.—the large or apparently swolen legs particularly observable in the women are obtained in a great measure by tying a cord tight around the ankle. their method of squating or resting themselves on their hams which they seem from habit to prefer to siting, no doubt contributes much to this deformity of the legs by preventing free circulation of the blood. the dress of the man consists of a smal robe, which reaches about as low as the middle of the thye and is attatched with a string across the breast and is at pleasure turned from side to side as they may have occasion to disencumber the right or left arm from the robe entirely, or when they have occasion for both hands, the fixture of the robe is in front with it's corners loosly hanging over their arms. they sometimes wear a hat which has already been discribed. this robe is made most commonly of the skins of a small animal which I have supposed was the brown mungo, tho they have also a number, of the skins of the tiger cat, some of those of the Elk which are used principally on their war excursions, others of the skins of the deer panther and bear and a blanket wove with the fingers of the wool of the native sheep. a mat is sometimes temperarily thrown over the sholders to protect them from rain. they have no other article of cloathing whatever neither winter nor summer. and every part except the sholders and back is exposed to view. they are very fond of the dress of the whites, which they wear in a similar manner when they can obtain them, except the shoe which I have never seen woarn by any of them. they call us pah-shish'e-ooks, or cloth men. The dress of the women consists of a robe, tissue, and sometimes when the weather is uncommonly cold, a vest. their robe is much smaller than that of the men, never reaching lower than the waist nor extending in front sufficiently far to cover the body. it is like that of the men confined across the breast with a string and hangs loosly over the sholders and back. the most esteemed and valuable of these robes are made of strips of the skins of the Sea Otter net together with the bark of the white cedar or silk-grass. these strips are first twisted and laid parallel with each other a little distance assunder, and then net or wove together in such manner that the fur appears equally on both sides, and unites between the strands. it make a warm and soft covering. other robes are formed in a similar manner of the skin of the Rackoon, beaver &c. at other times the skin is dressed in the hair and woarn without any further preperation. in this way one beaver skin, or two of those of the Raccoon or tiger catt forms the pattern of the robe. the vest is always formed in the manner first discribed of their robes and covers the body from the armpits to the waist, and is confined behind, and destitute of straps over the sholder to keep it up. when this vest is woarn the breast of the woman is concealed, but without it which is almost always the case, they are exposed, and from the habit of remaining loose and unsuspended grow to great length particularly in aged women in many of whom I have seen the hubby reach as low as the waist. The garment which occupys the waist, and from thence as low as nearly to the knee before and the ham, behind, cannot properly be denominated a petticoat, in the common acceptation of that term; it is a tissue of white cedar bark, bruised or broken into small shreds, which are interwoven in the middle by means of several cords of the same materials, which serve as well for a girdle as to hold in place the shreds of bark which form the tissue, and which shreds confined in the middle hang with their ends pendulous from the waist, the whole being of sufficient thickness when the female stands erect to conceal those parts usually covered from formiliar view, but when she stoops or places herself in many other attitudes, this battery of Venus is not altogether impervious to the inquisitive and penetrating eye of the amorite. This tissue is sometimes formed of little twisted cords of the silk grass knoted at their ends and interwoven as discribed of the bark. this kind is more esteemed and last much longer than those of bark. they also form them of flags and rushes which are woarn in a similar manner. the women as well as the men sometimes cover themselves from the rain by a mat woarn over the sholders. they also cover their heads from the rain sometimes with a common water cup or basket made of the cedar bark and beargrass. these people seldom mark their skins by puncturing and introducing a colouring matter. such of them as do mark themselves in this manner prefer their legs and arms on which they imprint parallel lines of dots either longitudinally or circularly. the women more frequently than the men mark themselves in this manner.
Wednesday, March 19, 1806. It continued to rain and hail today, so nothing more could be done to the canoes. A party was sent out early after the elk that was killed yesterday, and they returned a few hours later with it. We gave Comowooll, also known as Connia, a certificate for his good behavior and the friendly interaction he has maintained with us during our time here; we also gave him a list of our names. The Killamucks, Clatsops, Chinooks, Cathlahmahs, and Wac-ki-a-cums are similar in their appearance, dress, habits, and manners. Their skin tone is typical, showing the usual copper brown of most North American tribes. They are short in stature, rather small, and generally poorly shaped; they have thick, broad, flat feet, thick ankles, crooked legs, wide mouths, thick lips, and moderately large, fleshy noses that are wide at the end with large nostrils, along with black eyes and coarse black hair. Their eyes can sometimes be a dark yellowish-brown, with black pupils. I've noticed some high, aquiline noses among them, but they are extremely rare. Typically, the nose is low between the eyes. The most striking feature of their appearance is the distinctive flatness and width of their foreheads, which they achieve by compressing the head between two boards during infancy, a custom observed in all the nations we’ve encountered west of the Rocky Mountains. I've seen the heads of many infants, once the bandage was removed around the age of 10 or 11 months, that were only about two inches thick at the upper edge of the forehead, becoming even thinner further up. From the top of the head to the tip of the nose is a straight line. This method is performed to give the forehead greater width, which they greatly admire. The process seems to last longer for their female children than for their male ones, and neither appears to suffer any pain from the process. Because of this unique head shape, people east of the Rocky Mountains refer to all the tribes on this side, except the Aliahtans or Snake Indians, as Flatheads. I believe that the prevalence of this practice strongly indicates that these nations originally came from the same lineage. The tribes in this area, including those mentioned above, wear their hair loosely flowing down their backs and shoulders; both men and women part it down the center at the front and pull it back behind their ears. They enjoy using combs and keep their hair in better condition than many groups that are otherwise considered more civilized. The large, seemingly swollen legs seen especially in women are largely due to tying a cord tightly around the ankle. Their way of squatting or resting on their hams, which they seem to prefer to sitting, likely contributes to this leg deformity by restricting healthy blood circulation. Men's clothing consists of a small robe that reaches to about the middle of the thigh and is secured with a string across the chest. It can be easily moved from side to side to free either arm when needed. The front of the robe has its corners loosely hanging over their arms. They sometimes wear a hat that has been previously described. This robe is usually made from the skins of a small animal, which I believe to be the brown mongoose, though they also use skins from the tiger cat, elk (mainly for war), deer, panther, and bear, along with a blanket woven from the wool of native sheep. A mat is sometimes thrown over the shoulders for rain protection. They have no other clothing items for winter or summer, with all parts of their bodies except for their shoulders and backs exposed. They are very fond of white people’s clothing and wear it similarly if they can get it, excluding shoes, which I have never seen them wear. They refer to us as pah-shish'e-ooks, or cloth men. Women’s clothing consists of a robe, a tissue, and sometimes a vest when it's particularly cold. Their robe is much smaller than the men's, never going lower than the waist and not covering the body sufficiently in front. It, like the men’s, is secured across the chest with a string and hangs loosely over their shoulders and back. The most prized and valuable robes are made of strips of sea otter skin, combined with white cedar bark or silk grass. These strips are twisted and laid parallel with slight gaps in between, then netted or woven in such a way that the fur appears on both sides and blends between the strands, creating a warm and soft cover. Other robes are made similarly but from the skins of raccoons, beavers, etc. Sometimes the skin is worn with the fur still on and without further preparation. One beaver skin or two tiger cat or raccoon skins make up the robe's design. The vest is made the same way as the robes, covering the body from the armpits to the waist. It is secured at the back and lacks straps over the shoulders to hold it up. When worn, the woman's chest is covered, but without it, which is almost always the case, they remain exposed, and due to the habit of wearing it loosely, many older women have seen their hair grow down to the waist. The garment covering the waist, reaching down to nearly the knee in front and the ham behind, cannot properly be called a petticoat in the usual sense. It is made from a tissue of white cedar bark, crushed or shredded into small pieces, woven together in the middle with several cords of the same material, acting both as a girdle and holding the bark in place. The shreds hang down from the waist, thick enough when the woman stands upright to hide the usual covered areas, but when she bends or takes various positions, this covering isn’t entirely impervious to the curious eye of an admirer. This tissue is sometimes made of twisted cords of silk grass, knotted at the ends and interwoven as described with the bark. This kind is more valued and lasts longer than those made of bark. They also create them from flags and rushes worn in a similar fashion. Women and men sometimes use a mat for rain protection, worn over their shoulders. They occasionally cover their heads from the rain with a common water cup or a basket made of cedar bark and bear grass. This group seldom marks their skin through puncturing and coloring. Those who do prefer to mark their legs and arms, applying parallel lines of dots either lengthwise or circularly. Women more frequently than men choose to mark themselves this way.
The favorite ornament of both sexes are the common coarse blue and white beads which the men wear tightly wound arond their wrists and ankles many times untill they obtain the width of three or more inches. they also wear them in large rolls loosly arond the neck, or pendulous from the cartelage of the nose or rims of the ears which are purforated for the purpose. the women wear them in a similar manner except in the nose which they never purforate. they are also fond of a species of wampum which is furnished them by a trader whom they call Swipton. it seems to be the native form of the shell without any preperation. this shell is of a conic form somewhat curved, about the size of a raven's quill at the base, and tapering to a point which is sufficiently large to permit to hollow through which a small thred passes; it is from one to 11/2 Inches in length, white, smooth, hard and thin. these are woarn in the same manner in which the beads are; and furnish the men with their favorite ornament for the nose. one of these shells is passed horizontally through the cartilage of the nose and serves frequently as a kind of ring to prevent the string which suspends other ornaments at the same part from chafing and freting the flesh. the men sometimes wear collars of bears claws, and the women and children the tusks of the Elk variously arranged on their necks arms &c. both males and females wear braslets on their wrists of copper brass or Iron in various forms. I think the most disgusting sight I have ever beheld is these dirty naked wenches. The men of these nations partake of much more of the domestic drudgery than I had at first supposed. they collect and prepare all the fuel, make the fires, assist in cleansing and preparing the fish, and always cook for the strangers who visit them. they also build their houses, construct their canoes, and make all their wooden utensils. the peculiar provence of the woman seems to be to collect roots and manufacture various articles which are prepared of rushes, flags, cedar bark, bear grass or waytape. the management of the canoe for various purposes seems to be a duty common to both sexes, as also many other occupations which with most Indian nations devolves exclusively on the woman. their feasts which they are very fond are always prepared and served by the men.
The favorite accessory for both men and women is the common blue and white beads, which men wear tightly wrapped around their wrists and ankles multiple times until they reach a width of three inches or more. They also wear these beads in large, loose rolls around their necks or hanging from their nose cartilage and ear rims, which are pierced for this purpose. Women wear them similarly, except they never pierce their noses. They also enjoy a type of wampum provided by a trader they call Swipton. This wampum is the native form of the shell, unprocessed. The shell is cone-shaped, slightly curved, about the size of a raven's quill at the base, and tapers to a point large enough to allow for a small thread to pass through; it measures between one to one and a half inches long, is white, smooth, hard, and thin. These shells are worn similarly to the beads and are a favorite nose ornament for men. A shell is often passed horizontally through the nose cartilage, serving as a kind of ring to prevent the string holding other ornaments from rubbing against the skin. Men sometimes wear collars made of bear claws, while women and children wear elk tusks arranged in various ways around their necks and arms. Both men and women wear bracelets on their wrists made of copper, brass, or iron in different styles. I think the most unpleasant sight I've ever seen is these dirty naked women. The men in these communities do much more domestic work than I initially thought. They gather and prepare all the fuel, start the fires, help clean and prepare fish, and always cook for visiting strangers. They also build their homes, make their canoes, and create all their wooden utensils. The main role of women appears to be collecting roots and making various items from reeds, flags, cedar bark, bear grass, or yucca. Managing the canoe for different purposes seems to be a shared responsibility for both genders, unlike many other tasks, which typically fall solely on women in most Indian cultures. Their feasts, which they greatly enjoy, are always prepared and served by the men.
Comowool and the two Cathlahmahs left us this evening. it continued to rain so constantly today that Sergt. Pryor could not pitch his canoes.
Comowool and the two Cathlahmahs left us this evening. It kept raining all day, so Sergt. Pryor couldn’t set up his canoes.
[Clark, March 19, 1806]
Wednesday March 19th 1806 Inds. Descd. It continued to rain and hail in Such a manner that nothing Could be done to the Canoes. a party were Sent out early after the Elk which was killed last evening, with which they returned in the Course of a fiew hours, we gave Commorwool alias Cania, a Certificate of his good conduct and the friendly intercourse which he has maintained with us dureing our residence at this place; we also gave him a list of our names &c.—The Kilamox, Clatsops, Chinnooks, Cath lah mahs Wau ki a cum and Chiltz I-resemble each other as well in their persons and Dress as in their habits and manners.—their complexion is not remarkable, being the usial Copper brown of the tribes of North America. they are low in Statue reather diminutive, and illy Shaped, possessing thick broad flat feet, thick ankles, crooked legs, wide mouths, thick lips, noses Stuk out and reather wide at the base, with black eyes and black coarse hair.
Wednesday, March 19th, 1806. The rain and hail continued so heavily that nothing could be done with the canoes. A group was sent out early to retrieve the elk that was killed last evening, and they returned in a few hours. We gave Comorwool, also known as Cania, a certificate for his good conduct and the friendly relationship he has maintained with us during our stay here. We also provided him with a list of our names, etc. The Kilamox, Clatsops, Chinooks, Cathlahmahs, Waukiacum, and Chiltz resemble each other not only in appearance and dress but also in their habits and behaviors. Their complexion is unremarkable, typical of the Copper-brown skin of North American tribes. They are short in stature, rather small, and poorly shaped, with thick, broad flat feet, thick ankles, crooked legs, wide mouths, thick lips, noses that stick out and are somewhat wide at the base, along with black eyes and coarse black hair.
I have observed Some high acqualine noses among them but they are extreemly reare. the most remarkable trate in their physiognamy is the peculiar flatness and width of the forehead which they Artificially obtain by compressing the head between two boards while in a State of infancy, and from which it never afterwards perfectly recovers. This is a custom among all the nations, we have met with West of the Rocky Mountains. I have observed the head of maney infants, after this Singular Bandage had been dismissed, or about the age of 11 or 12 months, that were not more than two inches thick about the upper part of the forehead and reather thiner Still higher. from the top of the head to the extremity of the nose is one Streight line. this is done in order to give a greater width to the forehead, which they much admire. This process seams to be continued longer with their female than their male children, and neither appears to Suffer any pain from the opperation. it is from this peculiar form of the head that the nations East of the Rocky Mountains, call all the nations on this Side, except Aliahtans, So-so-ne, or Snake Indians by the General name of Flat Heads. I think my Self that the provalence of this custom is a Strong proof of those nations haveing originally proceeded from the Same Stock. The nations of this neighbourhood or those recpitulated above, ware their hair loosly flowing on their back and Sholders; both men and women divide it on the Center of the Crown in front and throw it back behind the ear on each Side. they are fond of Combs and use them when they Can obtain them; and even without the aid of Combs keep their in better order, than inaney nations who are in other respects much more Civilized than themselves.
I have noticed some high aquiline noses among them, but they are extremely rare. The most notable feature in their appearance is the unusual flatness and width of the forehead, which they artificially achieve by compressing the head between two boards during infancy, and it never fully recovers afterward. This is a custom among all the nations we've encountered west of the Rocky Mountains. I have seen the heads of many infants, after this unusual bandage was removed, at around 11 or 12 months old, that measured no more than two inches in thickness at the upper part of the forehead, and it was even thinner higher up. From the top of the head to the tip of the nose is one straight line. This is done to create a wider forehead, which they greatly admire. This process seems to last longer for female children than for male ones, and neither appears to suffer any pain from the procedure. It is from this distinctive head shape that the nations east of the Rocky Mountains refer to all the nations on this side, except for the Aliahtans, as So-so-ne, or Snake Indians, collectively known as Flat Heads. I believe that the prevalence of this custom is strong evidence that these nations originally came from the same ancestry. The nations in this area, or those mentioned above, wear their hair loosely flowing down their backs and shoulders; both men and women part it at the center of the crown in front and pull it back behind the ears on each side. They are fond of combs and use them when possible; even without combs, they keep their hair better groomed than many nations that are otherwise much more civilized than they are.
The large or apparently Sweled legs particularly observable in the women, are obtained in a great measure by tying a cord tight around the leg above the ancle bone. their method of Squating or resting themselves on their hams which they Seam from habit to prefer to Setting, no doubt contributes much to this deformity of the legs by preventing free circulation of the blood. This is also the Custom of the nations above.
The large or seemingly swollen legs, especially noticeable in women, are mainly caused by tying a cord tightly around the leg above the ankle bone. Their way of squatting or resting on their heels, which they seem to prefer over sitting, likely contributes significantly to this leg deformity by restricting proper blood circulation. This is also a common practice among the nations mentioned above.
The dress of the men like those above on the Columbia river Consists of a Small robe, which reaches about as low as the middle of the thye and is attatched with a String across the breast and is at pleasure turned from Side to Side as they may have an occasion to disincumber the right or left arm from the robe entirely, or when they have occasion for both hands, the fixture of the robe is in front with it's corner loosly hanging over their Arms. they Sometimes wear a hat which have already been discribed (See 29th Jany.) Their Robes are made most commonly of the Skins of a Small animal which I have Supposed was the brown mungo, tho they have also a number of the Skins of the tiger Cat, Some of those of the Elk which are used principally on their war excursions, others of the Skins of Deer, panthor, Bear, and the Speckle Loon, and blankets wove with the fingers of the wool of the native Sheep. and Some of those on the Sea Coast have robes of Beaver and the Sea Otter. a mat is Sometimes temperaly thrown over the Sholders to protect them from rain. they have no other article of Cloathing whatever neither winter nor Summer, and every part except the Sholders and back is exposed to view. they are very fond of the dress of the whites, which they ware in a Similar manner when they Can obtain them, except the Shoe or mockerson which I have never Seen worn by any of them. They Call us pah-shish-e-ooks or Cloath men. The dress of the women consists of a roab, tissue, and Sometimes when the weather is uncommonly Cold, a vest. their robe is much Smaller than that of the men, never reaching lower than the waist nor extending in front Sufficiently far to cover the body. it is like that of the men confined across the breast with a String and hangs loosely over the Sholders and back. the most esteemed & valuable of those robes are made of Strips of the Skin of the Sea Otter net together with the bark of the white Cedar or Silk grass. these fish are first twisted and laid parallel with each other a little distance asunder, and then net or wove together in Such a manner that the fur appears equally on both Sides, and united between the Strands. it makes a worm and Soft covering. other robes are formed in a Similar manner of the Skins of the rackoon, beaver &c. at other times the Skins is dressed in the hair and worn without any further preperation. in this way one beaver Skin or two of the rackoon or one of the tiger Cat forms a vest and Covers the body from the Armpits to the waist, and is confined behind, and destitute of Straps over the Sholder to keep it up. when this vest is worn the breast of the woman in consealed, but without it which is almost always the case, they are exposed, and from the habit of remaining loose and unsuspended grow to great length, particularly in aged women, on many of whome I have Seen the bubby reach as low as the waist. The petticoat or tissue which occupies the waiste has been already described (See 7th Novr. 1805) formd. of the Bark of white cedar, Silk grass, flags & rushes. The women as well as the men Sometimes cover themselves from the rain by a mat worn over the Sholders. They also Cover their heads from the rain Sometimes with a common water cup or basket made of Cedar bark and bear grass.
The men's clothing, like that described earlier along the Columbia River, consists of a small robe that falls to about the middle of the thigh. It’s secured with a string across the chest and can be moved from side to side as needed to free either arm or both for tasks. The front of the robe hangs loosely over their arms. They sometimes wear a hat that has already been described (See 29th Jan.). Their robes are typically made from the skins of small animals, which I believe to be the brown mongoose, though they also use various skins from the tiger cat, elk (mainly for war excursions), and deer, as well as panther, bear, and speckled loon. They have blankets woven from the wool of local sheep. Some coastal individuals wear robes made from beaver and sea otter. Occasionally, they throw a mat over their shoulders to protect against the rain. They wear no other clothing, regardless of the season, exposing every part except their shoulders and back. They are very fond of white people's clothing, which they wear similarly when they can get it, but I have never seen them wear shoes or moccasins. They call us pah-shish-e-ooks or "Cloth men." The women's clothing includes a robe and a tissue, and occasionally, when it’s particularly cold, a vest. Their robe is much smaller than the men's, never reaching below the waist or extending far enough in front to fully cover the body. Like the men's, it is secured across the chest with a string and hangs loosely over the shoulders and back. The most valued robes are made from strips of sea otter skin, stitched together with the bark of white cedar or silk grass. These strips are twisted and laid parallel, then netted or woven together so that the fur appears equally on both sides. This creates a warm and soft covering. Other robes are similarly made from the skins of raccoon or beaver, and some are worn with the fur side out without any extra preparation. A single beaver skin or two raccoon skins, or one tiger cat skin, can form a vest that covers the body from the armpits to the waist, secured in the back without shoulder straps. When this vest is worn, the woman’s chest is concealed, but without it, which is almost always the case, she is exposed. Due to the habit of wearing loose clothing that hangs down, particularly in older women, I have seen many whose chests reach as low as the waist. The petticoat or tissue worn at the waist has already been described (See 7th Nov. 1805), made from the bark of white cedar, silk grass, flags, and rushes. Women, like men, sometimes protect themselves from the rain with a mat worn over the shoulders. They also cover their heads with a common water cup or a basket made of cedar bark and bear grass from time to time.
Those people Sometimes mark themselves by punctureing and introducing a Colouring matter. Such of them as do mark themselves in this manner prefur the legs and arms on which they imprint parallel lines of dots either longitudinally or circularly. the woman more frequently than the men mark themselves in this manner. The favorite orniments of both Sexes are the Common coarse blue and white beads as before discribed of the Chinnooks. Those beads the men wear tightly wound around their wrists and Ankles maney times untill they obtain the width of three or four inches. they also wear them in large rolls loosly around the neck, or pendulous from the cartelage of the nose or rims of the ears which are purfarated in different places round the extremities for the purpose. the woman wear them in a Similar manner except in the nose which they never purfarate. they are also fond of a Species of wompum, which is furnished by a trader whome they call Swipton. it seams to be the nativ form of the Shell without any preperation. this Shell is of a conic form Somewhat curved about the Size of a ravens quill at the base, and tapering to a point which is Sufficiently large to permit a hollow through which a Small thread passes; it is from 1 to 11/2 inches in length, white, Smooth, hard and thin these are worn in the Same manner in which the beeds are; and furnish the men with their favorite orniment for the nose. one of these Shells is passed horizontally through cartilage of the nose and Serves frequently as a kind of ring which prevents the string which Suspends other orniments at the Same part from Chafing and freting the flesh. The men Sometimes wear Collars of Bears Claws, and the women and children the tusks of the Elk variously arranged on their necks arms &c. both male and female wear bracelets on their wrists of Copper, Brass or Iron in various forms. The women Sometimes wash their faces & hands but Seldom. I think the most disgusting Sight I have ever beheld is those dirty naked wenches.
Some people often mark their skin by puncturing it and adding coloring. Those who mark themselves this way usually prefer their legs and arms, where they create parallel lines of dots either vertically or in circles. Women tend to mark themselves more than men. The favorite ornaments for both sexes are the common coarse blue and white beads mentioned earlier about the Chinooks. Men wrap these beads tightly around their wrists and ankles, sometimes until they reach three or four inches wide. They also wear them in large rolls loosely around their necks or hanging from their nose cartilage or earlobes, which are pierced in various places for that purpose. Women wear them similarly, except they don’t pierce their noses. They also like a type of wampum provided by a trader they call Swipton. It seems to be the native form of the shell without any processing. This shell is cone-shaped, slightly curved, about the size of a raven's quill at the base, tapering to a point that has a large enough hole for a small thread to pass through. It is about 1 to 1.5 inches long, white, smooth, hard, and thin. These are worn like the beads, and they serve as a favorite nose ornament for men. One of these shells is passed horizontally through the cartilage of the nose and often acts as a kind of ring that prevents the string holding other ornaments from chafing and irritating the skin. Men sometimes wear collars made of bear claws, while women and children wear elk tusks arranged in various ways around their necks and arms. Both men and women wear bracelets on their wrists made of copper, brass, or iron in different styles. Women sometimes wash their faces and hands, but not often. I think the most disgusting sight I have ever seen is those filthy, naked women.
The men of those nations partake of much more of the domestic drudgery than I had at first Supposed. they Collect and prepare all the fuel, make the fires, cook for the Strangers who visit them, and assist in Cleaning and prepareing the fish. they also build their houses, construct their Canoes, and make all their wooden utensils. the peculiar province of the woman Seams to be to collect roots and manufacture various articles which are prepared of rushes, flags, Cedar bark, bear grass or way tape, also dress and manufacture the Hats & robes for Common use. the management of the Canoe for various purposes Seams to be a duty common to both Sexes, as are many other occupations which with most Indian nations devolve exclusively on the womin. their feasts of which they are very fond are always prepared and Served by the men.-.-.
The men of those nations do a lot more of the household chores than I initially thought. They gather and prepare all the fuel, start the fires, cook for the visitors, and help clean and prepare the fish. They also build their houses, make their canoes, and craft all their wooden utensils. The main role of the women seems to be gathering roots and making various items from rushes, flags, cedar bark, bear grass, or way tape, as well as creating hats and robes for everyday use. Managing the canoe for different purposes seems to be a task shared by both sexes, as are many other jobs that, in most Native American cultures, are typically assigned to women. Their feasts, which they really enjoy, are always prepared and served by the men.
it Continued to rain So constantly dureing the day that Sergt. Pryor Could not Pay his Canoes. The Clatsop Chief Commowool and the two Cath-lah-mahs left us this evening and returned to their village.
It kept raining so constantly throughout the day that Sergeant Pryor couldn't pay for his canoes. The Clatsop Chief Commowool and the two Cath-lah-mahs left us this evening and went back to their village.
[Lewis, March 20, 1806]
Thursday March 20th 1806. It continued to rain and blow so violently today that nothing could be done towards forwarding our departure. we intended to have Dispatched Drewyer and the two Fieldses to hunt near the bay on this side of the Cathlahmahs untill we jounded them from hence, but the rain rendered our departure so uncertain that we declined this measure for the present. nothing remarkable happened during the day. we have yet several days provision on hand, which we hope will be sufficient to subsist us during the time we are compelled by the weather to remain at this place.
Thursday, March 20, 1806. It rained and blew so hard today that we couldn't do anything to move forward with our departure. We planned to send Drewyer and the two Fields brothers to hunt near the bay on this side of the Cathlahmahs until we caught up with them from here, but the rain made our departure too uncertain, so we decided against that for now. Nothing noteworthy happened during the day. We still have several days' worth of provisions, which we hope will be enough to sustain us while we’re stuck here because of the weather.
Altho we have not fared sumptuously this winter and spring at Fort Clatsop, we have lived quite as comfortably as we had any reason to expect we should; and have accomplished every object which induced our remaining at this place except that of meeting with the traders who visit the entrance of this river. our salt will be very sufficient to last us to the Missouri where we have a stock in store.—it would have been very fortunate for us had some of those traders arrived previous to our departure from hence, as we should then have had it our power to obtain an addition to our stock of merchandize which would have made our homeward bound journey much more comfortable. many of our men are still complaining of being unwell; Willard and Bratton remain weak, principally I beleive for the want of proper food. I expect when we get under way we shall be much more healthy. it has always had that effect on us heretofore. The guns of Drewyer and Sergt. Pryor were both out of order. the first was repared with a new lock, the old one having become unfit for uce; the second had the cock screw broken which was replaced by a duplicate which had been prepared for the lock at Harpers ferry where she was manufactured. but for the precaution taken in bringing on those extra locks, and parts of locks, in addition to the ingenuity of John Shields, most of our guns would at this moment been untirely unfit for use; but fortunately for us I have it in my power here to record that they are all in good order.
Although we haven't lived extravagantly this winter and spring at Fort Clatsop, we've been as comfortable as we had any reason to expect. We've accomplished every goal that kept us here except for meeting with the traders who come to the entrance of this river. Our salt supply will be sufficient to last us until we reach the Missouri, where we have more stock stored. It would have been very fortunate for us if some of those traders had arrived before we left; then we could have acquired more merchandise to make our journey home more comfortable. Many of our men are still complaining of being unwell; Willard and Bratton remain weak, mostly due to a lack of proper food. I expect that once we get moving, we'll feel much healthier; it has always had that effect on us in the past. The guns of Drewyer and Sergeant Pryor were both out of order. The first was repaired with a new lock, as the old one had become unusable; the second had a broken cock screw, which was replaced by a spare prepared for the lock at Harpers Ferry where it was made. If it weren't for the precaution of bringing those extra locks and parts, along with the ingenuity of John Shields, most of our guns would at this moment be completely unusable; but thankfully, I can report that they are all in good working order.
[Clark, March 20, 1806]
Thursday March 20th 1806 It continued to rain and blow so violently to day that nothing could be done towards fowarding our departure. we intended to have dispatched Drewyer & the 2 Field'es to hunt above Point William untill we joined them from hense but the rain renders our departure So uncertain that we decline this measure for the present. nothing remarkable happened dureing the day. we have yet Several days provisions on hand, which we hope will be Sufficient to Serve us dureing the time we are compell'd by the weather to remain at this place.-.
Thursday, March 20th, 1806. It continued to rain and blow so violently today that nothing could be done to move forward with our departure. We planned to send Drewyer and the two Fields to hunt above Point William until we could join them from here, but the rain makes our departure so uncertain that we’ve decided to hold off on that for now. Nothing noteworthy happened during the day. We still have several days' worth of provisions, which we hope will be enough to last us while we’re stuck here due to the weather.
Altho we have not fared Sumptuously this winter & Spring at Fort Clatsop, we have lived quit as comfortably as we had any reason to expect we Should; and have accomplished every object which induced our remaining at this place except that of meeting with the traders who visit the enterance of this river. our Salt will be very sufficient to last us to the Missouri where we have a Stock in Store.—it would have been very fortunate for us had Some of those traders arrived previous to our departure from hence; as we Should then have had it in our power to obtain an addition to our Stock of merchandize, which would have made our homeward bound journey much more comfortable.
Although we haven't lived luxuriously this winter and spring at Fort Clatsop, we've been quite comfortable, just as we expected. We've achieved everything that made us stay here, except for meeting the traders who come to the entrance of this river. Our salt will be more than enough to last us until we reach the Missouri, where we have stock stored. It would have been really fortunate for us if some of those traders had arrived before we left; then we could have added to our stock of merchandise, which would have made our journey home much more comfortable.
Maney of our men are Still Complaining of being unwell; Bratten and Willard remain weak principally I believe for the want of proper food. I expect when we get under way that we Shall be much more healthy. it has always had that effect on us heretofore.
Many of our men are still complaining about not feeling well; Bratten and Willard are still weak, mainly because they lack proper food. I expect that once we get moving, we will be much healthier. It has always had that effect on us in the past.
The Guns of Sergt. Pryor & Drewyer were both out of order. the first had a Cock screw broken which was replaced by a duplicate which had been prepared for the Locks at Harpers Ferry; the Second repared with a new Lock, the old one becoming unfit for use. but for the precaution taken in bringing on those extra locks, and parts of locks, in addition to the ingenuity of John Shields, most of our guns would at this moment been entirely unfit for use; but fortunate for us I have it in my power here to record that they are in good order, and Complete in every respect-
The guns of Sergt. Pryor and Drewyer were both out of order. The first had a broken screw that was replaced with a spare prepared for the locks at Harpers Ferry. The second was repaired with a new lock because the old one was no longer usable. If it hadn't been for the precaution of bringing extra locks and lock parts, along with the ingenuity of John Shields, most of our guns would currently be completely unusable. Fortunately, I can report that they are in good condition and complete in every way.
[Lewis, March 21, 1806]
Friday March 21st 1806. As we could not set out we thought it best to send out some hunters and accordingly dispatched Sheilds and Collins on this side the Netul for that purpose with orders to return in the evening or sooner if they were successfull. The hunters returned late in the evening unsuccessfull. we have not now more than one day's provision on hand. we directed Drewyer and the Feildses to set out tomorrow morning early, and indevour to provide us some provision on the bay beyond point William. we were visited to day by some Clatsop indians who left us in the evening. our sick men Willard and bratton do not seem to recover; the former was taken with a violent pain in his leg and thye last night. Bratton is now so much reduced that I am somewhat uneasy with rispect to his recovery; the pain of which he complains most seems to be seated in the small of his back and remains obstinate. I beleive that it is the rheumatism with which they are both afflicted.
Friday, March 21st, 1806. Since we couldn't leave, we decided it was best to send out some hunters. We sent Sheilds and Collins across the Netul for that purpose and asked them to return in the evening or sooner if they were successful. The hunters came back late in the evening without any success. We now have only one day's worth of provisions left. We instructed Drewyer and the Fieldses to set out early tomorrow morning and try to gather some supplies on the bay beyond Point William. Today, we were visited by some Clatsop Indians who left us in the evening. Our sick men, Willard and Bratton, do not seem to be recovering; Willard experienced a severe pain in his leg last night. Bratton has weakened so much that I am quite worried about his recovery; the pain he complains about seems to be in his lower back and is persistent. I believe that both of them are suffering from rheumatism.
[Clark, March 21, 1806]
Friday March 21st 1806 as we could not Set out we thought it best to Send out Some hunters and accordingly dispatched Shields and Collins on this Side of the Netul for that purpose with orders to return in the evening or Sooner if they were Successfull. they returned late in the evening unsuccessfull. we have not now more than two days provisions on hand. we derected Drewyer and the two Fieldses to Set out tomorrow morning early, and indevour to provide us Some provision on the Bay beyond point William. we were visited to day by Some Clatsops who left us in the evening. our sick men willard and Bratten do not Seem to recover; the former was taken with a violent pain in his leg and thye last night. Bratten is now so much reduced that I am Somewhat uneasy with respect to his recovery; the pain of which he complains most Seems to be Settled in the Small of his back and remains obstenate. I believe that it is the Rheumatism with which they are both affected.-.
Friday, March 21, 1806: Since we couldn't set out, we thought it was best to send out some hunters, so we sent Shields and Collins on this side of the Netul for that purpose, with orders to return in the evening or sooner if they were successful. They came back late in the evening unsuccessful. We now have less than two days' worth of provisions on hand. We directed Drewyer and the two Fieldses to set out early tomorrow morning and try to find us some food on the bay beyond Point William. We were visited today by some Clatsops who left us in the evening. Our sick men, Willard and Bratten, don’t seem to be recovering; Willard was taken with a violent pain in his leg last night. Bratten is now so much weaker that I’m somewhat worried about his recovery; the pain he complains about seems to be in the small of his back and is persistent. I believe that both of them are affected by rheumatism.
[Lewis, March 22, 1806]
Saturday March 22cd 1806. Drewyer and the Feildses departed this morning agreably to the order of the last evening. we sent out seven hunters this morning in different directions on this side the Netul. about 10 A.M. we were visited by 4 Clatsops and a killamucks; they brought some dried Anchoveis and a dog for sale which we purchased. the air is perefectly temperate, but it continues to rain in such a manner that there be is no possibility of geting our canoes completed.—at 12 OCk. we were visited by Comowooll and 3 of the Clatsops. to this Cheif we left our houses and funiture. he has been much more kind an hospitable to us than any other indian in this neighbourhood. the Indians departed in the evening. the hunters all returned except Colter, unsuccessfull. we determined to set out tomorrow at all events, and to stop the canoes temperarily with Mud and halt the first fair day and pay them. the leafing of the hucklebury riminds us of spring.
Saturday, March 22, 1806. Drewyer and the Fields family left this morning as we agreed last night. We sent out seven hunters in different directions on this side of the Netul. Around 10 A.M., we were visited by four Clatsops and a Killamuck; they brought some dried anchovies and a dog for sale, which we bought. The air is perfectly mild, but it keeps raining in such a way that we can’t finish our canoes. At 12 o'clock, we had a visit from Comowooll and three Clatsops. We left our houses and furniture with this chief, who has been much kinder and more hospitable to us than any other Indian in the area. The Indians left in the evening. All the hunters returned except Colter, all unsuccessful. We decided to set out tomorrow no matter what and to temporarily seal the canoes with mud and pay for them on the first clear day. The budding of the huckleberry reminds us of spring.
[Clark, March 22, 1806]
Saturday March 22nd 1806 Drewyer and the two Fieldses departed this morning agreably to the order of last evening. we Sent out Six hunters this morning in different directions on both Sides of the Netul. about 10 A.M. we were visited by Que-ne-o alias Commorwool 8 Clatsops and a Kil-a-mox; they brought Some dried Anchovies, a common Otter Skin and a Dog for Sale all of which we purchased. the Dog we purchased for our Sick men, the fish for to add to our Small Stock of provision's, and the Skin to cover my papers. those Indians left us in the evening. the air is perfectly temperate, but it continues to rain in Such a manner that there is no possibillity of getting our canoes completed in order to Set out on our homeward journey. The Clatsops inform us that Several of their nation has the Sore throat, one of which has laterly died with this disorder. the Hunters Sent out to day all returned except Colter unsessfull.
Saturday, March 22, 1806 Drewyer and the two Fields brothers left this morning as per last night's orders. We sent out six hunters in different directions on both sides of the Netul. Around 10 A.M., we were visited by Que-ne-o, also known as Commorwool, along with eight Clatsops and a Kil-a-mox; they brought some dried anchovies, a common otter skin, and a dog for sale, all of which we bought. We got the dog for our sick men, the fish to add to our small stock of provisions, and the skin to protect my papers. The Indians left us in the evening. The weather is perfectly mild, but it keeps raining so heavily that we can’t finish our canoes to start our journey home. The Clatsops told us that several people in their tribe have sore throats, and one of them recently died from this illness. All the hunters we sent out today came back except Colter, and they were unsuccessful.
[Lewis, March 23, 1806]
Sunday March 23rd 1806. Half after 9 A.M. Colter arrived, having killed one Elk but so distant that we could not send for the meat and get arround Point William today, we therefore prefered seting out and depending on Drewyer and the hunters we have sent forward for meat. the wind is pretty high but it seems to be the common opinion that we can pass point William. we accordingly distributed the baggage and directed the canoes to be launched and loaded for our departure.—at 1 P.M. we bid a final adieu to Fort Clatsop. we had not proceeded more than a mile before we met Delashelwilt and a party of 20 Chinnooks men and women. this Cheif leaning that we were in want of a canoe some days past, had brought us one for sale, but being already supplyed we did not purchase it. I obtained one Sea Otter skin from this party. at a 1/4 before three we had passed Meriwethers bay and commenced coasting the difficult shore; at 1/2 after five we doubled point William, and at 7 arrived in the mouth of a small creek where we found our hunters. they had killed 2 Elk, at the distance of a mile & 1/2. it was too late to send after it this evening. we therefore encamped on the Stard side of the Creek. the wind was not very hard.
Sunday, March 23rd, 1806. Half past 9 A.M. Colter arrived, having killed one elk, but it was too far away for us to send someone for the meat and get around Point William today, so we decided to set out and rely on Drewyer and the hunters we sent ahead for meat. The wind was pretty strong, but everyone seemed to think we could pass Point William. We then distributed the baggage and directed the canoes to be launched and loaded for our departure. At 1 P.M., we said a final goodbye to Fort Clatsop. We had barely gone a mile when we encountered Delashelwilt and a group of 20 Chinook men and women. This chief, knowing we needed a canoe a few days ago, had brought one for sale, but since we were already supplied, we didn’t buy it. I got one sea otter skin from this group. At a quarter to three, we had passed Meriwether's Bay and started along the challenging shore. At 5:30, we rounded Point William, and by 7, we arrived at the mouth of a small creek where we found our hunters. They had killed 2 elk about a mile and a half away. It was too late to send for it this evening, so we camped on the starboard side of the creek. The wind was not very strong.
[Clark, March 23, 1806]
Sunday 23rd March 1806 This morning proved So raney and uncertain that we were undeturmined for Some time whether we had best Set out & risque the river which appeared to be riseing or not. Jo. Colter returned haveing killed an Elk about 3 miles towards Point Adams. the rained Seased and it became fair about Meridean, at which time we loaded our Canoes & at 1 P.M. left Fort Clatsop on our homeward bound journey. at this place we had wintered and remained from the 7th of Decr. 1805 to this day and have lived as well as we had any right to expect, and we can Say that we were never one day without 3 meals of Some kind a day either pore Elk meat or roots, not withstanding the repeeted fall of rain which has fallen almost Constantly Since we passed the long narrows on the ____ of Novr. last indeed we have had only ____ days fair weather since that time. Soon after we had Set out from Fort Clatsop we were met by De lash el wilt & 8 men of the Chinnooks, and Delashelwilts wife the old bond and his Six Girls, they had, a Canoe, a Sea otter Skin, Dried fish and hats for Sale, we purchased a Sea otter Skin, and proceeded on, thro Meriwethers Bay, there was a Stiff breese from the S. W. which raised Considerable Swells around Meriwethers point which was as much as our Canoes Could ride. above point William we came too at the Camp of Drewyer & the 2 Field's. they had killed 2 Elk which was about 11/2 miles distant. here we Encampd. for the night having made 16 miles.
Sunday, March 23, 1806 This morning was so rainy and unpredictable that we were unsure for a while whether we should set out and risk the rising river. Jo. Colter came back after having killed an elk about 3 miles towards Point Adams. The rain stopped and it cleared up around noon, at which point we loaded our canoes and left Fort Clatsop at 1 PM on our journey home. We had spent the winter here, staying from December 7, 1805, until today, and we can say that we managed as well as we could have hoped. We can honestly say that we never went a day without three meals, which were usually either poor elk meat or roots, despite the constant rain that has been falling almost continuously since we passed the long narrows in November. In fact, we have had only a few days of fair weather since then. Soon after we set out from Fort Clatsop, we met Delashelwil and eight men from the Chinooks, along with Delashelwil's wife, the old chief, and his six daughters. They had a canoe, a sea otter skin, dried fish, and hats for sale. We bought a sea otter skin and continued through Meriwether's Bay, where a strong breeze from the southwest created significant swells around Meriwether's Point, which our canoes struggled to ride. Above Point William, we arrived at the camp of Drewyer and the two Fields. They had killed two elk, which were about one and a half miles away. We set up camp for the night, having covered 16 miles.
[Lewis, March 24, 1806]
Monday March 24th 1806. This morning we sent out a party of 15, at light, for the meat, and concluded to take breakfast before we set out. they soon returned. we breakfasted and set out at 1/2 after 9 A.M. Saw a white woodpecker with a red head of the small kind common to the United States; this bird has but lately returned. they do not remain during the winter. the country thick and heavily timbered. we saw very few waterfowl today, not a single swan, white brant nor a small goose is to be seen. a few Cormorant, duckinmallard, butterbox, and common large geese were only to be found the tide being out this morning we found some difficulty in passing through the bay below the Cathlahmah village; this side of the river is very shallow to the distance of 4 miles from the shore tho there is a channel sufficient for canoes near S. side. at 1 P.M. we arrived at the Cathlahmah village where we halted and purchased some wappetoe, a dog for the sick, and a hat for one of the men. on one of the seal Islands opposite to the village of these people thy have scaffolded their dead in canoes elivating them above tidewater mark. these people are very fond of sculpture in wood of which they exhibit a variety of specemines about their houses. the broad peices supporting the center of the roof and those through which the doors are cut, seem to be the peices on which they most display their taist. I saw some of these which represented human figures setting and supporting the burthen on their sholders. at half after 3 P.M. we set out and continued our rout among the seal Islands; not paying much attention we mistook our rout which an Indian perceiving pursued overtook us and put us in the wright channel. this Cathlahmah claimed the small canoe which we had taken from the Clatsops. however he consented very willingly to take an Elk's skin for it which I directed should be given him and he immediately returned. we continued our rout along the South side of the river and encamped at an old village of 9 houses opposite to the lower Wackkiacum village. the night was cold tho wood was abundant after dark two Chinnook men came to us in a small canoe. they remained with us all night. came 15 miles today.
Monday, March 24, 1806. This morning, we sent out a team of 15 at dawn for the meat and decided to have breakfast before we left. They returned shortly. We had breakfast and set out at 9:30 A.M. We saw a white woodpecker with a red head, a small type common in the United States; this bird has just started returning, as they don't stay during the winter. The area is thickly wooded. We saw very few waterfowl today; not a single swan, white brant, or small goose was in sight. Only a few cormorants, mallard ducks, butterbox ducks, and large common geese were found. Since the tide was out this morning, we found it a bit challenging to get through the bay below the Cathlahmah village; this side of the river is very shallow for up to 4 miles from the shore, though there is a channel deep enough for canoes along the south side. At 1 P.M., we arrived at the Cathlahmah village, where we stopped and bought some wappetoe, a dog for the sick, and a hat for one of the men. On one of the seal islands opposite this village, they have scaffolded their dead in canoes, elevating them above the high tide mark. These people really enjoy wood sculpture and display a variety of samples around their homes. The large pieces that support the center of the roof and those that form the doorways seem to be where they put most of their artistic effort. I saw some that depicted human figures sitting and supporting a load on their shoulders. At 3:30 P.M., we set out again and continued our route among the seal islands; not paying much attention, we strayed from our path until an Indian noticed us, pursued, caught up, and got us back on track. This Cathlahmah claimed the small canoe we had taken from the Clatsops, but he willingly agreed to take an elk skin for it, which I instructed should be given to him, and he returned it immediately. We continued our route along the south side of the river and set up camp at an old village with 9 houses opposite the lower Wackkiacum village. The night was cold, though wood was plentiful. After dark, two Chinnook men came to us in a small canoe. They stayed with us all night. We traveled 15 miles today.
[Clark, March 24, 1806]
Monday 24th of March 1806 Sent out 15 men verry early this morning for the flesh of the two Elk killed by Drewyer and Fields yesterday. they returned at 8 oClock, after taking a Slight brackfast we Set out at half past 9 a.m. and proceeded to the Cath lah mah Village at 1 P.M. and remained untill 1/2 after 3 p.m.at this village we purchased a fiew wappato and a Dog for our Sick men Willard and Bratten who are yet in a weak State. at this Village I saw two very large elegant Canoes inlaid with Shills, those Shills I took to be teeth at first View, and the nativs informed Several of the men that they the teeth of their enemies which they had killed in War. in examineing of them Closely haveing taken out Several pices, we found that were Sea Shells which yet contained a part of the iner ____ they also deckerate their Smaller wooden vessles with those Shells which have much the appearance of humane teeth, Capt Cook may have mistaken those Shills verry well for humane teeth without a Close examination. The Village of these people is the dirtiest and Stinkingest place I ever Saw in any Shape whatever, and the inhabitants partake of the carrestick of the Village. we proceeded on through Some difficult and narrow Channels between the Seal Islands, and the South Side to an old village on the South Side opposit to the lower War ki a com village, and Encamped. to this old villg. a very considerable deposit of the dead at a Short distance below, in the usial and Customary way of the nativs of this Coast in Canoes raised from the ground as before described. Soon after we made our Camp 2 Indians visited us from the opposit Side, one of them Spoke Several words of English and repeeted the names of the traders, and maney of the Salors. made 16 Miles
Monday, March 24, 1806 We sent out 15 men very early this morning for the meat of the two elk killed by Drewyer and Fields yesterday. They returned at 8 o'clock, and after a light breakfast, we set out at 9:30 a.m. and headed to the Cath Lah Mah Village at 1 p.m., where we stayed until 3:30 p.m. At this village, we bought a few wapato and a dog for our sick men Willard and Bratten, who are still in a weak condition. While in the village, I saw two large, beautiful canoes inlaid with shells. At first glance, I thought the shells were teeth, and the natives informed several of the men that they were the teeth of their enemies that they had killed in battle. Upon closer examination, after taking out several pieces, we found they were sea shells that still contained part of the inner layer. They also decorate their smaller wooden vessels with these shells, which resemble human teeth. Captain Cook could have easily mistaken these shells for human teeth without a close inspection. The village of these people is the dirtiest and most pungent place I have ever seen in any form, and the inhabitants reflect the character of the village. We proceeded through some difficult, narrow channels between the Seal Islands and the south side to an old village directly across from the lower War Ki a Com village, where we set up camp. There is a significant burial site a short distance below in the usual and customary manner of the natives of this coast, using canoes raised from the ground as previously described. Soon after we made camp, two Indians visited us from the opposite side; one of them spoke a few words of English and repeated the names of the traders and many of the sailors. We traveled 16 miles.
[Lewis, March 25, 1806]
Tuesday March 25th 1806. The morning being disagreeably cold we remained and took break-fast. at 7 A.M. we set out and continued our rout along the South Coast of the river against the wind and a strong current, our progress was of course but slow. at noon we halted and dined. here some Clatsops came to us in a canoe loaded with dryed anchovies, which they call Olthen, Wappetoe and Sturgeon. they informed us that they had been up on a trading voyage to the Skillutes.—I observe that the green bryer which I have previously mentioned as being common on this river below tide water retains it's leaves all winter.—the red willow and seven bark begin to put fourth their leaves.—after dinner we passed the river to a large Island 2 and continued our rout allong the side of the same about a mile when we arrived at a Cathlahmah fishing cam of one lodge; here we found 3 men 2 women and a couple of boys, who from appearances had remained here some time for the purpose of taking sturgeon, which they do by trolling. they had ten or douzen very fine sturgeon which had not been long taken. we offered to purchase some of their fish but they asked us such an extravegant price that we declined purchase. one of the men purchased a sea Otterskin at this lodge, for which he gave a dressed Elkskin and an handkercheif. near this lodge we met some Cathlahmahs who had been up the river on a fishing excurtion. they had a good stock of fish on board, but did not seem disposed to sell them. we remained at this place about half an hour and then continued our rout up the Island to it's head and passed to the south side. the wind in the evening was very hard. it was with some difficulty that we could find a spot proper for an encampment, the shore being a swamp for several miles back; at length late in the evening opposite to the place we had encamped on the 6th of November last; we found the entrance of a small creek which afforded us a safe harbour from the wind and encamped. the ground was low and moist tho we obtained a tolerable encampment. here we found another party of Cathlahmahs about 10 in number who had established a temperary residence for the purpose of fishing and taking seal. they had taken a fine parcel of sturgeon and some seal. they gave us some of the fleese of the seal which I found a great improvement to the poor Elk. here we found Drewyer and the Feildses who had been seperated from us since morning; they had passed on the North side of the large Island which was much nearer. the bottom lands are covered with cottonwood, the growth with a broad leaf which resembles ash except the leaf. the underbrush red willow, broad leafed willow, sevenbark, goosburry, green bryer & the larged leafed thorn; the latter is now in bloom; the natives inform us that it bears a freut about an inch in diameter which is good to eat.
Tuesday, March 25th, 1806. The morning was unpleasantly cold, so we stayed and had breakfast. At 7 A.M., we set out and continued our route along the South Coast of the river against the wind and a strong current, which made our progress slow. At noon, we stopped for lunch. Some Clatsops came to us in a canoe loaded with dried anchovies, which they call Olthen, Wappetoe, and Sturgeon. They informed us that they had been on a trading trip to the Skillutes. I noticed that the green briar, which I mentioned before as common in this river below tidewater, keeps its leaves all winter. The red willow and sevenbark are starting to sprout leaves. After lunch, we crossed the river to a large island and continued our route along its side for about a mile, until we reached a Cathlahmah fishing camp with one lodge. There, we found three men, two women, and a couple of boys who had been there for some time catching sturgeon by trolling. They had ten or twelve very fine sturgeon, freshly caught. We offered to buy some of their fish, but they asked for such an outrageous price that we declined. One of the men bought a sea otter skin at this lodge, giving a dressed elk skin and a handkerchief in exchange. Near this lodge, we met some Cathlahmahs who had been upstream on a fishing trip. They had a good amount of fish on their boat but didn't seem inclined to sell. We stayed at this place for about half an hour before continuing our route up the island to its head and crossing to the south side. The wind was very strong in the evening. It was difficult to find a suitable spot for camping, as the shore was a swamp for several miles back. Finally, late in the evening, opposite the spot where we camped on November 6th, we found the entrance to a small creek that provided safe harbor from the wind, so we set up camp. The ground was low and moist, but we managed to get a decent campsite. There, we found another group of Cathlahmahs, about ten in total, who had set up a temporary residence for fishing and seal hunting. They had caught a good number of sturgeon and some seal. They shared some of the seal meat with us, which I found a great improvement over the poor elk. We also found Drewyer and the Fieldses, who had been separated from us since morning; they had gone on the north side of the large island, which was much closer. The bottom lands are covered with cottonwood, which has broad leaves that resemble those of ash except for the leaf shape. The underbrush includes red willow, broad-leaved willow, sevenbark, gooseberry, green briar, and large-leaved thorn; the latter is currently in bloom. The locals tell us that it bears fruit about an inch in diameter, which is good to eat.
[Clark, March 25, 1806]
Tuesday 25th of March 1806 Last night and this morning are cool wend hard a head and tide going out, after an early brackfast we proceeded on about 4 miles and came too on the South Side to worm and dry our Selves a little. Soon after we had landed two Indians Came from a War kia cum village on the opposit Side with 2 dogs and a fiew Wappato to Sell neither of which we bought. Som Clatsops passed down in a Canoe loaded with fish and Wappato. as the wind was hard a head and tide against us we Concluded to delay untill the return of the tide which we expected at 1 oClock, at which hour we Set out met two Canoes of Clatsops loaded with dried anchovies and Sturgion which they had taken and purchased above we crossed over to an Island on which was a Cath lahmah fishing Camp of one Lodge; here we found 3 man two woman and a couple of boys who must have for Some time for the purpose of taking Sturgeon which they do by trolling. they had 10 or 12 very fine Sturgeon which had not been long taken; we wished to purchase some of their fish but they asked Such extravegent prices that we declined purchaseing. one of our Party purchased a Sea otter Skin at this Lodge for which he gave a dressed Elk Skin & a Handkerchief. we remained at this place about half an hour and then Continued our rout. the winds in the evening was verry hard, it was with Some dificuelty that we Could find a Spot proper for an encampment, the Shore being a Swamp for Several miles back; at length late in the evening opposit to the place we had encamped on the 6th of Novr. last; we found the enterance of a Small Creek which offered us a Safe harbour from the Winds and Encamped. the Ground was low and moist tho we obtained a tolerable encampment. here we found another party of Cathlahmahs about 10 in number, who had established a temporary residence for the purpose of fishing and takeing Seal. they had taken about 12 Sturgeon and Some Seal. they gave us Some of the flesh of the Seal which I found a great improvement to the poor Elk. here we found Drewyer and the 2 Fields who had been Seperated from us Since Morning; they had passed on the North Side of the large Island which was much nearest. the bottom lands are Covered with a Species of Arspine, the Growth with a broad leaf which resembles ash except the leaf. the under brush red willow, broad leafed Willow, Seven bark, Goose berry, Green bryor, and the larged leaf thorn; the latter is Now in blume, the nativs inform us that it bears a fruit about an Inch in diamieter which is good to eate. the red willow and 7 bark begin to put foth their leaves. The green bryor which I have before mentioned retains leaves all winter. made 15 Miles
Tuesday, March 25, 1806 Last night and this morning were cool with a strong headwind and outgoing tide. After an early breakfast, we traveled about 4 miles and stopped on the south side to warm up and dry ourselves a bit. Shortly after we landed, two Indians came from a village across the river with two dogs and some wapato to sell, but we didn’t buy anything. A few Clatsops passed us in a canoe loaded with fish and wapato. Since the wind was hard against us and the tide was against us too, we decided to wait until the tide turned, which we expected at 1 o’clock. At that hour, we set out again and ran into two canoe loads of Clatsops carrying dried anchovies and sturgeon that they had caught and bought upstream. We crossed over to an island where there was a Cathlahmah fishing camp with one lodge. There, we found three men, two women, and a couple of boys who must have been there for some time to catch sturgeon by trolling. They had about 10 or 12 nice sturgeon that had just been caught. We wanted to buy some of their fish, but they were asking such outrageous prices that we decided against it. One member of our group bought a sea otter skin at this lodge, trading a dressed elk skin and a handkerchief for it. We stayed there for about half an hour and then continued on our route. The winds that evening were really strong, making it difficult to find a good spot to camp since the shore was a swamp for several miles back. Finally, late in the evening, opposite the place we had camped on November 6, we found the entrance of a small creek that offered us safe harbor from the winds, so we set up camp. The ground was low and damp, but we managed to get a decent campsite. Here, we encountered another group of Cathlahmahs, about ten in number, who had set up a temporary camp to fish and catch seals. They had caught around 12 sturgeons and some seals, and they shared some of the seal meat with us, which I found to be a nice improvement over the tough elk. We also found Drewyer and the two Fields who had been separated from us since morning; they had traveled on the north side of the large island, which was much closer. The bottom lands are covered with a type of spine plant with broad leaves that resemble ash leaves but are different. The underbrush includes red willow, broad-leafed willow, sevenbark, gooseberry, green briar, and the larger leaf thorn. The latter is currently blooming, and the natives tell us it produces fruit about an inch in diameter that is good to eat. The red willow and sevenbark are beginning to sprout leaves, while the green briar, which I have mentioned before, keeps its leaves throughout the winter. We made it 15 miles.
[Lewis, March 26, 1806]
Wednesday March 26th 1806. The wind blew so hard this morning that we delayed untill 8 A.M. we gave a medal of small size to a man by the name of Wal-lal'-le, a principal man among the Cathlahmahs, he appeared very thankfull for the honour conferred on him and presented us a large sturgeon. we continued our rout up the river to an old village on the Stard. side where we halted for dinner. we met on the way the principal Cheif of the Cathlahmahs, Sah-hah-woh-cap, who had been up the river on a trading voyage. he gave us some Wappetoe and fish; we also purchased some of the latter. soon after we halted for dinner the two Wackiacums who have been pursuing us since yesterday morning with two dogs for sale, arrived. they wish tobacco in exchange for their dogs which we are not disposed to give as our stock is now reduced to a very few carrots. our men who have been accustomed to the use of this article Tobaco and to whom we are now obliged to deny the uce of this article appear to suffer much for the want of it. they substitute the bark of the wild crab which they chew; it is very bitter, and they assure me they find it a good substitute for tobacco. the smokers substitute the inner bark of the red willow and the sacacommis. here our hunters joined us having killed three Eagles and a large goose. I had now an oportunity of comparing the bald with the grey Eagle; I found that the greay Eagle was about 1/4 larger, it's legs and feet were dark while those of the bald Eagle wer of a fine orrange yellow; the iris of the eye is also of a dark yellowish brown while that of the other is of a bright silvery colour with a slight admixture of yellow. after dinner we proceeded on and passed an Elegant and extensive bottom on the South side and an island near it's upper point which we call Fanny's Island and bottom. the greater part of the bottom is a high dry prarie. near the river towards the upper point we saw a fine grove of whiteoak trees; we saw some deer and Elk at a distance in the prarie, but did not delay for the purpose of hunting them. we continued our rout after dinner untill late in the evening and encamped on the next island above fanny's Island. we found it difficult to obtain as much wood as answered our purposes. the hunters who had proceeded on before us after dinner did not join us this evening. some Indians visited us after dark, but did not remain long. agreeably to our estimate as we decended the river, we came 16 m. 23rd, 16 m. the 24th, 15 the 25th, and 18 m. the 26th, tho I now think that our estimate in decending the river was too short.
Wednesday, March 26, 1806. The wind was so strong this morning that we delayed until 8 A.M. We awarded a small medal to a man named Wal-lal'-le, a prominent figure among the Cathlahmahs. He seemed very grateful for the honor and presented us with a large sturgeon. We continued our route up the river to an old village on the starboard side, where we stopped for dinner. On the way, we met the chief of the Cathlahmahs, Sah-hah-woh-cap, who had been up the river on a trading trip. He gave us some Wappetoe and fish; we also bought some of the latter. Soon after we halted for dinner, the two Wackiacums, who have been following us since yesterday morning with two dogs for sale, arrived. They wanted tobacco in exchange for their dogs, which we were reluctant to give as our supply is now down to just a few carrots. Our men, who are used to having tobacco and to whom we now have to deny it, seem to be suffering greatly due to the lack of it. They are chewing the bark of the wild crab as a substitute; it is very bitter, but they assure me it serves as a decent replacement for tobacco. The smokers are using the inner bark of the red willow and sacacommis. Our hunters joined us, having caught three eagles and a large goose. I had the chance to compare the bald eagle to the gray eagle; I found the gray eagle to be about 1/4 larger, with dark legs and feet compared to the fine orange-yellow legs and feet of the bald eagle. The iris of the gray eagle's eye is a dark yellowish-brown, while the bald eagle's is bright silvery with a hint of yellow. After dinner, we moved on and passed through a beautiful, extensive bottomland on the south side, as well as an island near its upper point, which we named Fanny's Island and bottomland. Most of the bottomland is a high, dry prairie. Near the river towards the upper point, we spotted a nice grove of white oak trees; we saw some deer and elk in the distance on the prairie but didn’t stop to hunt them. We continued our route after dinner until late in the evening and camped on the next island above Fanny's Island. We found it challenging to gather enough wood for our needs. The hunters who went ahead of us after dinner did not join us this evening. Some Indians visited us after dark but didn't stay long. According to our estimations as we descended the river, we covered 16 miles on the 23rd, 16 miles on the 24th, 15 miles on the 25th, and 18 miles on the 26th, though I now think our estimates while going down the river were too low.
[Clark, March 26, 1806]
Wednesday March 26th 1806 The wind blew So hard untill 8 A M. that we detained, we gave a Medal to a Man by the name of Wal-lal-le a principal man among the Cath lah mahs, he appeared very thankfull for the honor Confured on him and presented us with a large Sturgion. we Continued our rout up the river to an old Village on the South Side where we halted for dinner. we met on the way the principal Chief of the Cathlahmahs, Sah-hah-wah-cop, who had been up the river on a trading voyage, he gave us some Wappato and fish, we also purchased Some Wappato Soon after halted for dinner at an Old Village on the South point opposit the lower pt. of Fannys Island. The two Warkiacums who had been pursueing us Since yester day morning with two dogs for Sale, arrived. they wish Tobacco in exchange for their dogs which we are not disposed to give, as our Stock is now reduced to 3 carrots. our men who have been acustomed to the use of this article, and to Whome we are now obliged to deny the use of this article appear to Suffer Much for the want of it. they Substitute the bark of the wild Crab which they Chew; it is very bitter and they assure me they find it a good Substitute for tobacco. the Smokers Substitute the iner bark of the redwillow and the saccommis.
Wednesday, March 26, 1806. The wind blew so hard until 8 A.M. that we had to stay put. We gave a medal to a man named Wal-lal-le, a prominent figure among the Cathlahmahs. He seemed very grateful for the honor and presented us with a large sturgeon. We continued our route up the river to an old village on the south side, where we stopped for dinner. On the way, we met the principal chief of the Cathlahmahs, Sah-hah-wah-cop, who had been up the river on a trading trip. He gave us some wappato and fish, and we also bought some wappato. Soon after, we stopped for dinner at an old village on the south point opposite the lower part of Fanny's Island. The two Warkiacums, who had been chasing us since yesterday morning with two dogs for sale, arrived. They wanted tobacco in exchange for their dogs, which we were not willing to give, as our supply is down to three carrots. Our men, who are used to this item and are now being denied it, seem to suffer greatly due to the lack of it. They substitute the bark of the wild crab, which they chew; it is very bitter, but they assure me it makes a decent substitute for tobacco. The smokers use the inner bark of the red willow and the saccommis.
here our hunters joined us haveing killed 3 Eagles and a large Wild goose. I had now an oppertunity of Comparing the bald with the grey Eagle; I found the grey Eagle about 1/4 largest, its legs and feet were dark which those of the bald eagle were of a fine orrange yellow; the iris of the eye is also of a dark yellowish brown, while that of the Grey is of a light Silvery colour with a Slight admixture of yellow. after dinner I walked on Shore through an eligant bottom on the South Side opposit to Fannys Island.
Here our hunters joined us after killing 3 eagles and a large wild goose. I had the chance to compare the bald eagle with the grey eagle; I found the grey eagle to be about a quarter larger. Its legs and feet were dark, while the bald eagle's were a bright orange-yellow. The iris of the bald eagle's eye is also a dark yellowish-brown, whereas the grey eagle's is a light silvery color with a slight hint of yellow. After dinner, I walked along the shore through an elegant meadow on the south side opposite Fanny's Island.
This bottom we also Call fannys bottom it is extensive and an open leavel plain except near the river bank which is high dry rich oak land. I saw Some deer & Elk at a distance in the Prarie. we continued untill late in the evening and encamped on a Small Island near the Middle of the river haveing made 18 Miles. 2 Indians Visited us this evining
This area is also called Fanny's Bottom. It's a wide, open plain except for the high, dry, rich oak land near the riverbank. I saw some deer and elk in the prairie from a distance. We kept going until late in the evening and set up camp on a small island in the middle of the river after covering 18 miles. Two Indians visited us this evening.
[Lewis, March 27, 1806]
Thursday March 27th 1806. We set out early this morning and were shortly after joined by some of the Skillutes who came along side in a small canoe for the purpose of trading roots and fish. at 10 A.M. we arrived at two houses of this nation on the Stard. side where we halted for breakfast. here we overtook our hunters, they had killed nothing. the natives appeared extreemly hospitable, gave us dryed Anchovies, Sturgeon, wappetoe, quamash, and a speceis of small white tuberous roots about 2 inches in length and as thick as a man's finger; these are eaten raw, are crisp, milkey, and agreeably flavored. most of the party were served by the natives with as much as they could eat; they insisted on our remaining all day with them and hunting the Elk and deer which they informed us were very abundant in their neighbourhood. but as the weather would not permit us to dry our canoes in order to pitch them we declined their friendly invitation, and resumed our voyage at 12 OCk. the principal village of these Skillutes reside on the lower side of the Cow-e-lis'-kee river a few miles from it's entrance into the columbia. these people are said to be numer-ous. in their dress, habits, manners and language they differ but little from the Clatsops Chinnooks &c. they have latterly been at war with Chinnooks but peace is said now to be restored between them, but their intercourse is not yet resumed. no Chinnooks come above the marshey islands nor do the Skillutes visit the mouth of the Columbia. the Clatsops, Cathlahmahs and Wackkiacums are the carriers between these nations being in alliance with both.—The Coweliskee is 150 yards wide, is deep and from indian Information navigable a very considerable distance for canoes. it discharges itself into the Columbia about three miles above a remarkable high rocky vole which is situated on the N. side of the river by which it is washed on the South side and is seperated from the Nothern hills of the river by a wide bottom of several miles to which it is united. I suspect that this river waters the country lying West of the range of mountains which pass the columbia between the great falls and rapids, and north of the same nearly to the low country which commences on the N. W. coast about Latitude ____ North. above the Skillutes on this river another nation by the name of the Hul-loo-et-tell reside, who are said also to be numerous. at the distance Of 2 m. above the village at which we breakfasted we passed the entrance of this river; we saw several fishing camps of the Skillutes on both sides of the Columbia, and were attended all the evening by parties of the natives in their canoes who visited us for the purpose of trading their fish and roots; we purchased as many as we wished on very moderate terms; they seemed perfectly satisfyed with the exchange and behaved themselves in a very orderly manner. late in the evening we passed our camp of the 5th of November and encamped about 41/2 above at the commencement of the bottom land on stard. below Deer Island. we had scarcely landed before we were visited by a large canoe with eight men; from them we obtained a dryed fruit which resembled the raspburry and which I beeive to be the fruit of the large leafed thorn frequently mentioned. it is reather ascid tho pleasently flavored. I preserved a specemine of this fruit I fear that it has been baked in the process of drying and if so the seed will not vegitate. saw the Cottonwood, sweet willow, oak, ash and the broad leafed ash, the growth which resembles the beach &c. these form the growth of the bottom lands while the hills are covered almost exclusively with the various speceis of fir heretofore discribed. the black Alder appears as well on some parts of the hills as the bottoms. before we set out from the Skillute village we sent on Gibson's canoe and Drewyers with orders to proceed as fast as they could to Deer island and there to hunt and wait our arrival. we wish to halt at that place to repair our canoes if possible. the indians who visited us this evening remained but a short time, they passed the river to the oposite side and encamped. the night as well as the day proved cold wet and excessively disagreeable. we came 20 miles today.
Thursday, March 27, 1806. We set out early this morning and were soon joined by some of the Skillutes who came alongside in a small canoe to trade roots and fish. At 10 A.M., we arrived at two houses of this nation on the starboard side where we stopped for breakfast. Here we caught up with our hunters; they hadn't killed anything. The natives were extremely hospitable, giving us dried anchovies, sturgeon, wappetoe, quamash, and a type of small white tuberous root about 2 inches long and as thick as a man's finger; these can be eaten raw, are crisp, milky, and have a pleasant flavor. Most of the group were served by the natives with as much as they could eat; they insisted that we stay all day with them and hunt the elk and deer, which they said were very abundant in their area. However, since the weather wouldn’t let us dry our canoes to set them up, we politely declined their kind invitation and continued our journey at noon. The main village of these Skillutes is located on the lower side of the Cow-e-lis'-kee River, a few miles from where it enters the Columbia. This people are said to be numerous. In their dress, habits, manners, and language, they differ little from the Clatsops, Chinooks, etc. They have recently been at war with the Chinooks, but peace is said to be restored, though their interactions have not resumed. No Chinooks come above the marshy islands, nor do the Skillutes visit the mouth of the Columbia. The Clatsops, Cathlahmahs, and Wackkiacums facilitate trade between these nations, being allied with both. The Coweliskee is 150 yards wide, deep, and, according to Indian information, navigable quite a distance for canoes. It flows into the Columbia about three miles above a notable high rocky bluff on the north side of the river, separated from the northern hills by a wide flat area several miles long to which it is connected. I suspect this river waters the land to the west of the mountain range that runs along the Columbia between the great falls and rapids, extending north nearly to the lowland starting on the northwest coast around latitude ____ north. Above the Skillutes along this river, another nation called the Hul-loo-et-tell also resides and is said to be numerous. We passed the entrance of this river 2 miles above the village where we had breakfasted; we saw several fishing camps of the Skillutes on both sides of the Columbia, and were accompanied all evening by groups of natives in their canoes who visited us to trade their fish and roots; we purchased as much as we wanted at very reasonable prices; they seemed perfectly satisfied with the exchanges and behaved very respectfully. Late in the evening, we passed our campsite from November 5 and set up camp about 4.5 miles above at the start of the bottom land on the starboard side, below Deer Island. We had barely landed when a large canoe with eight men visited us; from them, we got a dried fruit that looked like a raspberry, which I believe is the fruit of the large-leafed thorn often mentioned. It is somewhat acidic but pleasantly flavored. I saved a sample of this fruit, though I fear it was baked during the drying process, and if so, the seeds will not germinate. I observed cottonwood, sweet willow, oak, ash, and broadleaf ash; these trees form the growth of the bottom lands while the hills are almost entirely covered with the various types of fir previously described. The black alder is also found both on some parts of the hills and in the bottoms. Before we left the Skillute village, we sent Gibson’s canoe and Drewyer ahead with orders to proceed as quickly as possible to Deer Island and there to hunt and wait for us. We wanted to stop there to repair our canoes if possible. The Indians visiting us this evening stayed for a short time, crossed the river to the opposite side, and camped. Both the night and day were cold, wet, and extremely uncomfortable. We covered 20 miles today.
[Clark, March 27, 1806]
Thursday March 27th 1806. a rainey disagreeable night rained the greater part of the night we Set out this morning verry early and proceeded on to two houses of the Skil-lute Indians on the South Side here we found our hunters who had Seperated from us last evening. the wind rose and the rain became very hard Soon after we landed here we were very friendly receved by the natives who gave all our party as much fish as they Could eate, they also gave us Wappato and pashaquaw roots to eate prepared in their own way. also a Species of Small white tuberous roots about 2 inches in length and as thick as a mans finger, these are eaten raw, or crips, milkey and agreeably flavoured; the nativs insisted on our remaining all day with them and hunt the Elk and deer which they informed us was very abundant in this neighbourhood. but as the weather would not permit our drying our Canoes in order to pitch them, we declined their friendly invertation, and resumed our voyage at 12 oClock. The principal village of the Skil-lutes is Situated on the lower Side of the Cow-e-lis kee river a fiew miles from it's enterance into the Columbia. those people are Said to be noumerous, in their dress, habits, manners and Language they differ but little from the Clatsops, Chinnooks &c. they have latterly been at war with the Chinnooks, but peace is Said to be now restored between them, but their inter Course is not yet restored. no Chinnook Come above the Warkiacums, nor do the Skillutes visit the Mouth of the Columbia. The Clatsops, Cath lahmahs & War kia coms are the Carriers between those nations being in alliance with both-. The Cow e lis kee river is 150 yards wide, is deep and from Indian information navigable a very considerable distance for canoes. it discharges itself into the Columbia about 3 miles above a remarkable knob which is high and rocky and Situated on the North Side of the Columbia, and Seperated from the Northern hills of the river by a Wide bottom of Several Miles, to which it united. I Suspect that this river Waters the Country lying west of a range of Mountains which passes the Columbia between the Great falls and rapids, and North of the Same nearly to the low country which Commences on the N W. Coast about Latitude 4° ____ North. above the Skil lutes on this river another nation by the name of the Hul-loo-et-tell reside who are Said also to be numerous. at the distance of 2 miles above the village at which we brackfast we passed the enterance of this river; we Saw Several fishing camps of the Skillutes on both Sides of the Columbia, and also on both Sides of this river. we were attended all the evening by parties of the nativs in their Canoes who visited us for the purpose of tradeing their fish and roots; we purchased as maney as we wished on very moderate terms; they Seamed perfectly Satisfied with the exchange and behaved themselves in a very orderly manner. late in the evening we passed the place we Camped the 5th of Novr. and Encamped about 4 miles above at the Commencement of the Columbian Vally on the Stard. Side below Deer Island. we had Scercily landed before we were visited by a large Canoe with 8 men; from them we obtained a dried fruit which resembled the raspberry and which I beleave is the fruit of the large leafed thorn frequently mentioned. it is reather ascide tho pleasently flavored. Saw Cotton wood, Sweet Willow, white oake, ash and the broad leafed ash the Growth which resembles the bark &c. these form the groth of the bottom lands, whilst the Hills are almost exclusively Covered with the various Species of fir heretofore discribed. the black alder appears on Maney parts of the hills Sides as on the bottoms. before we Set out from the 2 houses where we brackfast we Sent on two Canoes with the best hunters, with orders to pro ceed as fast as they Could to Deer island and there to hunt and wait our arrival. we wish to halt at that place and repare 2 of our Canoes if possible. the Indians that visited us this evining remained but a Short time, they passed over to an Island and encamped. the night as well as the day proved Cold wet and excessively disagreeable. we Came 20 miles in the Course of this day.
Thursday, March 27, 1806. A rainy, unpleasant night; it rained most of the night. We set out this morning very early and continued on to two houses of the Skil-lute Indians on the south side. Here, we found our hunters who had separated from us last evening. The wind picked up and the rain became very heavy. Soon after we landed, we were warmly received by the natives who offered everyone in our group as much fish as they could eat. They also provided us with Wappato and pashaquaw roots, prepared in their own way, along with a type of small white tuberous roots about 2 inches long and as thick as a man's finger. These are eaten raw or cooked, creamy, and pleasantly flavored. The natives insisted we stay all day with them and hunt elk and deer, which they said were abundant in the area. However, since the weather wouldn't allow us to dry our canoes to set them up, we politely declined their friendly invitation and continued our journey at 12 o'clock. The main village of the Skil-lutes is located on the lower side of the Cow-e-lis kee river a few miles from its entrance into the Columbia. These people are said to be numerous; in their clothing, habits, manners, and language, they differ little from the Clatsops and Chinooks, etc. They’ve recently been at war with the Chinooks, but peace is said to have been restored, even though their interactions haven’t returned to normal. No Chinook comes above the Warkiacums, nor do the Skil-lutes visit the mouth of the Columbia. The Clatsops, Cathlahmahs, and Warkiacoms act as carriers between those nations, being allied with both. The Cow-e-lis kee river is 150 yards wide, deep, and, according to Indian sources, can be navigated for a considerable distance by canoe. It flows into the Columbia about 3 miles above a notable rocky knob on the north side of the Columbia, separated from the northern hills of the river by a wide plain several miles long. I suspect that this river drains the area lying west of a mountain range that runs across the Columbia between the Great Falls and rapids, and north of the same range nearly to the lowlands that begin on the northwest coast around latitude 4° north. Above the Skil-lutes on this river, another group called the Hul-loo-et-tell resides, and they are also said to be numerous. Two miles above the village where we had breakfast, we passed the entrance of this river. We saw several fishing camps of the Skil-lutes on both sides of the Columbia and also on both sides of this river. Throughout the evening, groups of natives visited us in their canoes to trade their fish and roots; we purchased as much as we wanted at reasonable prices. They seemed completely satisfied with the trade and conducted themselves very well. Late in the evening, we passed the spot where we camped on November 5 and set up camp about 4 miles above, at the start of the Columbian Valley on the starboard side, just below Deer Island. We had barely landed when a large canoe with 8 men approached us; from them, we obtained a dried fruit resembling a raspberry, which I believe is the fruit of the large-leafed thorn often mentioned. It’s somewhat sour but pleasantly flavored. We saw cottonwood, sweet willow, white oak, ash, and broadleaf ash—the growth that resembles the bark. These form the vegetation of the bottomlands, while the hills are almost exclusively covered with various species of fir previously described. The black alder appears in many parts of the hills and on the bottoms. Before we set out from the two houses where we had breakfast, we dispatched two canoes with the best hunters, instructing them to proceed as quickly as possible to Deer Island to hunt and await our arrival. We planned to stop there and repair two of our canoes if possible. The Indians who visited us this evening stayed for a short time before heading over to an island to camp. The night, like the day, was cold, wet, and extremely unpleasant. We traveled 20 miles over the course of this day.
[Lewis, March 28, 1806]
Friday March 28th 1806. This morning we set out very early and at 9 A.M. arrived at the old Indian Village on Lard side of Deer Island where we found our hunters had halted and left one man with the two canoes at their camp; they had arrived last evening at this place and six of them turned out to hunt very early this morning; by 10 A.M. they all returned to camp having killed seven deer. these were all of the common fallow deer with the long tall. I measured the tail of one of these bucks which was upwards of 17 Inches long; they are very poor, tho they are better than the black tailed fallow deer of the coast. these are two very distinct speceis of deer. the Indians call this large Island E-lal-lar or deer island which is a very appropriate name. the hunters informed us that they had seen upwards of a hundred deer this morning on this island. the interior part of the island is praries and ponds, with a heavy growth of Cottonwood ash and willow near the river. we have seen more waterfowl on this island than we have previously seen since we left Fort Clatsop, consisting of geese, ducks, large swan, and Sandhill crams. I saw a few of the Canvisback duck. the duckinmallard are the most abundant. one of the hunters killed a duck which appeared to be the male, it was a size less than the duckinmallard. the head neck as low as the croop, the back tail and covert of the wings were of a fine black with a small addmixture of perple about the head and neck, the belley & breast were white; some long feathers which lie underneath the wings and cover the thye were of a pale dove colour with fine black specks; the large feathers of the wings are of a dove colour. the legs are dark, the feet are composed of 4 toes each of which there are three in front connected by a web, the 4th is short Hat and placed high on the heel behind the leg. the tail is composed of 14 short pointed feathers. the beak of this duck is remarkably wide, and is 2 inches in length, the upper chap exceeds the under one in both length and width, insomuch that when the beak is closed the under is entirly concealed by the upper chap. the tongue, indenture of the margin of the chaps &c. are like those of the mallard. the nostrils are large longitudinal and connected. a narrow strip of white garnishes the upper part or base of the upper chap; this is succeeded by a pale skye blue colour which occupys about one inch of the chap, is again succeeded by a transverse stripe of white and the extremity is of a pure black. the eye is moderately large the puple black and iris of a fine orrange yellow. the feathers on the crown of the head are longer than those on the upper part of neck and other parts of the head; these feathers give it the appearance of being crested. at 1/2 after ten A.M. it became fair, and we had the canoes which wanted repairing hailed out and with the assistance of fires which we had kindled for the purpose dryed them sufficiently to receive the pitch which was immediately put on them; at 3 in the evening we had them compleat and again launched and reloaded. we should have set out, but as some of the party whom we had permitted to hunt since we arrived have not yet returned we determined to remain this evening and dry our beding baggage &c. the weather being fair. Since we landed here we were visited by a large canoe with ten natives of the quathlahpahtle nation who are numerous and reside about seventeen miles above us on the lard. side of the Columbia, at the entrance of a small river. they do not differ much in their dress from those lower down and speak nearly the same language, it is in fact the same with a small difference of accent. we saw a great number of snakes on this island they were about the size and much the form of the common garter snake of the Atlantic coast and like that snake are not poisonous. they have 160 scuta on the abdomen and 71 on the tail. the abdomen near the head, and jaws as high as the eyes, are of a bluefish white, which as it receedes from the head becomes of a dark brown. the field of the back and sides is black. a narrow stripe of a light yellow runs along the center of the back, on each side of this stripe there is a range of small transverse oblong spots of a pale brick ret which gradually deminish as they receede from the head and disappear at the commencement of the tail. the puple of the eye is black, with a narrow ring of white bordering it's edge; the ballance of the iris is of a dark yellowish brown.—the men who had been sent after the deer returned and brought in the remnent which the Vultures and Eagles had left us; these birds had devoured 4 deer in the course of a few hours. the party killed and brought in three other deer a goose some ducks and an Eagle. Drewyer also killed a tiger cat. Joseph Fields informed me that the Vultures had draged a large buck which he had killed about 30 yards, had skined it and broken the back bone. we came five miles only today.
Friday, March 28th, 1806. This morning we set out very early and arrived at the old Indian Village on the east side of Deer Island by 9 A.M. There, we found our hunters had stopped and left one man with two canoes at their camp; they had reached this spot last evening, and six of them went out to hunt very early this morning. By 10 A.M., they all returned to camp having killed seven deer. These were all common fallow deer with long, tall bodies. I measured the tail of one of these bucks, which was over 17 inches long; they are quite lean, but still better than the black-tailed fallow deer of the coast. These are two very distinct species of deer. The Indians call this large island E-lal-lar or Deer Island, which is quite an appropriate name. The hunters told us they had seen over a hundred deer this morning on this island. The interior part of the island features prairies and ponds, with a dense growth of cottonwood, ash, and willow near the river. We’ve seen more waterfowl on this island than we have since leaving Fort Clatsop, including geese, ducks, large swans, and Sandhill cranes. I spotted a few canvasback ducks. Mallard ducks are the most abundant. One of the hunters shot a duck that appeared to be male; it was slightly smaller than the mallard. The head and neck down to the back, tail, and wing coverts were a fine black with a slight mix of purple around the head and neck, while the belly and breast were white. Some long feathers underneath the wings and covering the thighs were a pale dove color with fine black specks; the large feathers of the wings were dove-colored. The legs are dark, and the feet have four toes, three in front connected by webbing, while the fourth is short, flat, and placed high on the heel behind the leg. The tail has 14 short pointed feathers. The duck’s beak is remarkably wide, measuring 2 inches in length, with the upper mandible longer and wider than the lower one, so much so that when closed, the lower appears entirely concealed by the upper. The tongue and indentation of the edges of the mandibles are similar to that of a mallard. The nostrils are large and longitudinally connected. A narrow white strip adorns the upper part or base of the upper mandible, followed by a pale sky-blue color that occupies about an inch of the mandible, again succeeded by a transverse stripe of white, and the end is pure black. The eye is moderately large, with a black pupil and a fine orange-yellow iris. The feathers on the crown of the head are longer than those on the upper neck and other parts of the head, giving it a crested appearance. At 10:30 A.M., the weather cleared up, and we got the canoes, which needed repairs, pulled out. With the help of fires we had made for this purpose, we dried them enough to apply pitch, which we did immediately; by 3 P.M., we had them completely repaired, relaunched, and reloaded. We should have set out, but since some of the party we let hunt have not yet returned, we decided to stay this evening to dry our bedding and gear. The weather was fair. Since we landed here, we were visited by a large canoe with ten natives of the Quathlahpahtle nation, who are numerous and live about seventeen miles upstream from us on the east bank of the Columbia, at the entrance of a small river. They don’t differ much in dress from those farther down and speak nearly the same language, in fact, it’s the same with a slight difference in accent. We saw many snakes on this island; they were about the same size and shape as the common garter snake of the Atlantic coast and, like that snake, are not poisonous. They have 160 scales on their abdomen and 71 on the tail. The abdomen near the head and jaws up to the eyes is a bluish white, which darkens to brown farther back. The back and sides are black, with a narrow stripe of light yellow running along the center of the back. Along each side of this stripe, there’s a row of small, transverse, oblong spots of pale brick red, which gradually decrease as they move away from the head, disappearing at the start of the tail. The pupil of the eye is black, with a thin ring of white around its edge, while the rest of the iris is a dark yellowish-brown. The men who had gone after the deer returned with what was left of the deer that the vultures and eagles had stripped. These birds had scavenged four deer in just a few hours. The party also killed and brought in three other deer, a goose, some ducks, and an eagle. Drewyer also shot a tiger cat. Joseph Fields told me that the vultures had dragged a large buck he had killed about 30 yards, skinned it, and broken its back. We only traveled five miles today.
[Clark, March 28, 1806]
Friday March 28th 1806 This morning we Set out verry early and at 9 A.M. arived at an old Indian Village on the N E side of Deer island where we found our hunters had halted and left one man with the Canoes at their Camp, they arrived last evening at this place, and Six of them turned out very early to hunt, at 10 A.M. they all returned to camp haveing killed Seven Deer, those were all of the Common fallow Deer with a long tail. I measured the tail of one of these bucks which was upwards of 17 inches long; they are very poor, tho they are better than the black tail Species of the Sea coast. those are two very distinct Species of Deer. the Indians call this large Island E-lal-lar, or Deer Island, which is a very appropriate name. the hunters informed us that they had Seen upwards of a hundred Deer this morning on this island. the interior of this Island is a prarie & ponds, with a heavy growth of Cotton wood, ash & willow near the river. we have Seen more water fowl on this island than we have previously Seen Since we left Fort Clatsop, Consisting of Geese, Ducks, large Swan & Sand Hill crains. I saw a fiew of the Canvis back duck as I believe. at 1/2 after 10 A.M. it became fair and we had the Canoes which wanted repareing hauled out and with the assistance of fires which we had kindled for the purpose dryed them Sufficiently to receve the pitch which was imedeately put on them; at 3 in the evening we had them Compleated and lanced and reloaded. we should have Set out but some of the party whome we had permitid to hunt Since we arrived heve not yet returned. we determined to remain here this evening and dry our bedding &c. the weather being fair. Since we landed here we were visited by a large Canoe with ten nativs of the Quathlahpohtle nation who are numerous and reside about fourteen Miles above us on the N E. Side of the Columbia above the Enterance of a Small river which the Indians call Chfih-w&h-na-hi-ooks. we saw a great number of Snakes on this island; they were about the Size and much the form of the garter snake of the U. S. the back and Sides are black with a narrow Stripe of light yellow along the Center of the back, with small red spots on each Side they have ____ scuta on the abdomin & ____ on the tail and are not poisonous. The men who had been Sent after the deer returned with four only, the other 4 haveing been eaten entirely by the Voulturs except the Skin. The men we had been permitted to hunt this evening killed 3 deer 4 Eagles & a Duck. the deer are remarkably pore. Some rain in the after part of the day. we only made 5 miles to day-.
Friday, March 28, 1806 This morning, we set out very early and arrived at an old Indian village on the northeast side of Deer Island at 9 A.M. We found our hunters had stopped and left one man with the canoes at their camp; they arrived here last evening, and six of them went out early to hunt. By 10 A.M., they all returned to camp, having killed seven deer. These were all common fallow deer with long tails. I measured the tail of one of the bucks, which was over 17 inches long; they are very lean, though better than the black-tailed species from the coast. Those are two very distinct species of deer. The Indians call this large island E-lal-lar, or Deer Island, which is a fitting name. The hunters told us they saw over a hundred deer this morning on this island. The interior of this island is a prairie and ponds, with a dense growth of cottonwood, ash, and willow near the river. We've seen more waterfowl here than we have since leaving Fort Clatsop, including geese, ducks, large swans, and sandhill cranes. I spotted a few canvasback ducks, I believe. At 10:30 A.M., the weather cleared up, and we pulled out the canoes that needed repairs. With the help of the fires we lit for this purpose, we dried them enough to receive the pitch, which we applied immediately. By 3 P.M., we had them completed, lanced, and reloaded. We would have set out, but some members of the party whom we had allowed to hunt since our arrival had not yet returned. We decided to stay here for the evening to dry our bedding, etc., as the weather was nice. Since we landed here, a large canoe arrived with ten natives from the Quathlahpohtle nation, who are numerous and live about fourteen miles upstream on the northeast side of the Columbia, above the entrance of a small river the Indians call Chfih-w&h-na-hi-ooks. We saw a large number of snakes on this island; they were about the size and shape of the garter snake found in the U.S. Their backs and sides are black with a narrow stripe of light yellow down the center of the back, and they have small red spots on each side. They have ____ scuta on the abdomen and ____ on the tail and are not poisonous. The men we sent after the deer returned with only four; the other four had been completely eaten by vultures, except for the skins. The men we allowed to hunt this evening killed three deer, four eagles, and a duck. The deer are remarkably poor. We had some rain later in the day. We only made five miles today.
[Lewis, March 29, 1806]
Saturday March 29th 1806. We set out early this morning and proceeded along the side of Deer Island; halted at 10 A.M. near its upper point and breakfasted. here we were joined by three men of the Clan-nah-min-na-mun nation. the upper point of this Island may be esteemed the lower side or commencement of the Columbian valley. after breakfast we proceeded on and at the distance of 14 miles from our encampment of the last evening we passed a large inlet 300 yds in width. this inlet or arm of the river extends itself to the South 10 or 12 M. to the hills on that side of the river and receives the waters of a small creek which heads with killamucks river, and that of a bayau which passes out of the Columbia about 20 miles above, the large Island thus formed we call wappetoe island. on this inlet and Island the following nations reside, (viz) Clan-nah-min-namun, Clacks-star, Cath-lah-cum-up, Clah-in-na-ta, Cath-lah-nah-qui-ah, and Cath-lah-cam-mah-tup. the two first reside on the inlet and the others on the bayau and island.—observed a speceies of small wild onion growing among the moss on the rocks, they resemble the shives of our gardens and grow remarkably close together forming a perfect turf; they are quite as agreeably flavoured as the shives. on the North side of the columbia a little above the entrance of this inlet a considerable river discharges itself. this stream the natives call the Cah-wah-na-hi-ooks. it is 150 yards wide and at present discharges a large body of water, tho from the information of the same people it is not navigable but a short distance in consequence of falls and rappids a tribe called the Hul-lu-ettell reside on this river above it's entr.—at the distance of three miles above the entrance of the inlet on the N. side behind the lower point of an island we arrived at the village of the Cath-lah-poh-tle with consists of 14 large wooden houses. here we arrived at 3 P.M. the language of these people as well as those on the inlet and wappetoe Island differs in some measure from the nations on the lower part of the river. tho many of their words are the same, and a great many others with the difference only of accent. the form of their houses and dress of the men, manner of living habits customs &c as far as we could discover are the same. their women wear their ornaments robes and hair as those do below tho here their hair is more frequently braded in two tresses and hang over each ear in front of the body. in stead of the tissue of bark woarn by the women below, they wear a kind of leather breech clout about the width of a common pocket handkerchief and reather longer. the two corners of this at one of the narrow ends are confined in front just above the hips; the other end is then brought between the legs, compressed into a narrow foalding bundel is drawn tight and the corners a little spread in front and tucked at the groin over and arround the part first confind about the waist. the small robe which dose not reach the waist is their usual and only garment commonly woarn be side that just mentioned. when the weather is a litte warm this robe is thrown aside and the leather truss or breech-clout constitutes the whole of their apparel. this is a much more indecent article than the tissue of bark, and bearly covers the mons venes, to which it is drawn so close that the whole shape is plainly perceived. the floors of most of their houses are on a level with the surface of the earth tho some of them are sunk two or 3 feet beneath. the internal arrangement of their houses is the same with those of the nations below. they are also fond of sculpture. various figures are carved and painted on the peices which support the center of the roof, about their doors and beads. they had large quantities of dryed Anchovies strung on small sticks by the gills and others which had been first dryed in this manner, were now arranged in large sheets with strings of bark and hung suspended by poles in the roofs of their houses; they had also an abundance of sturgeon and wappetoe; the latter they take in great quantities from the neighbouring bonds, which are numerous and extensive in the river bottoms and islands. the wappetoe furnishes the principal article of traffic with these people which they dispose of to the nations below in exchange for beads cloth and various articles. the natives of the Sea coast and lower part of the river will dispose of their most valuable articles to obtain this root. they have a number of large symeters of Iron from 3 to 4 feet long which hang by the heads of their beads; the blade of this weapon is thickest in the center tho thin even there. all it's edges are sharp and it's greatest width which is about 9 inches from the point is about 4 inches. the form is thus. this is a formidable weapon. they have heavy bludgeons of wood made in the same form nearly which I presume they used for the same purpose before they obtained metal. we purchased a considerable quantity of wappetoe, 12 dogs, and 2 Sea otter skins of these people. they were very hospitable and gave us anchovies and wappetoe to eat. notwithstanding their hospitality if it deserves that appellation, they are great begers, for we had scarcely finished our repast on the wappetoe and Anchovies which they voluntarily set before us before they began to beg. we gave them some small articles as is our custom on those occasions with which they seemed perfectly satisfyed. we gave the 1st Cheif a small medal, which he soon transfered to his wife. after remaining at this place 2 hours we set out & continued our rout between this island, which we now call Cath-lah-poh-tle after the nation, and the Lard shore. at the distance of 2 miles we encamped in a small prarie on the main shore, having traveled 19 miles by estimate. the river rising fast. great numbers of both the large and small swans, gees and ducks seen today. the former are very abundant in the ponds where the wappetoe is found, they feed much on this bulb. the female of the duck which was described yesterday is of a uniform dark brown with some yellowish brown intermixed in small specks on the back neck and breast. the garter snakes are innumerable, & are seen entwined arround each other in large bundles of forty or fifty lying about in different directions through the praries. the frogs are croaking in the swams and marhes; their notes do not differ from those of the Atlantic States; they are not found in the salt marshes near the entrance of the river. heared a large hooting owl hollowing this evening. saw several of the crested fishers and some of the large and small black-birds.
Saturday, March 29th, 1806. We left early this morning and traveled along the side of Deer Island; paused at 10 A.M. near its upper point and had breakfast. Here, three men from the Clan-nah-min-na-mun nation joined us. The upper point of this Island can be considered the lower end or beginning of the Columbian valley. After breakfast, we continued on and, 14 miles from our campsite from the previous night, we passed a large inlet 300 yards wide. This inlet, or arm of the river, extends south for 10 or 12 miles to the hills on that side of the river and receives the waters of a small creek that begins with Killamucks River, as well as a bayau that flows out of the Columbia about 20 miles upstream. The large island formed here is called Wappetoe Island. The following nations live on this inlet and island: Clan-nah-min-namun, Clacks-star, Cath-lah-cum-up, Clah-in-na-ta, Cath-lah-nah-qui-ah, and Cath-lah-cam-mah-tup. The first two reside on the inlet, while the others are on the bayau and island. I noticed a type of small wild onion growing among the moss on the rocks; they resemble the chives from our gardens and grow very close together, forming a perfect turf. They have a flavor similar to chives. On the north side of the Columbia, just above where this inlet enters, there’s a significant river that flows out. The natives call this stream the Cah-wah-na-hi-ooks. It is 150 yards wide and currently carries a large volume of water, but according to the locals, it isn’t navigable for very far due to falls and rapids. A tribe called the Hul-lu-ettell lives on this river above its entrance. Three miles upstream from the inlet's entrance, on the north side behind the lower point of an island, we reached the village of the Cath-lah-poh-tle, which consists of 14 large wooden houses. We arrived here at 3 P.M. The language of these people, as well as those on the inlet and Wappetoe Island, differs somewhat from the nations downstream. While many of their words are similar, there are quite a few others that differ only in accent. The structure of their houses, the clothing of the men, lifestyle, habits, customs, etc., are the same as far as we could tell. The women wear their ornaments, robes, and hairstyles similar to those downstream, although here their hair is more often braided into two tresses that hang over each ear in front. Instead of the bark cloth worn by women below, they wear a type of leather breechcloth about the width of a standard pocket handkerchief but a little longer. The two corners of this at one of the narrow ends are secured in front just above the hips; the other end is then pulled between the legs, gathered into a narrow bundle, drawn tight, and the corners slightly spread in front and tucked at the groin over and around the part first secured at the waist. The small robe that does not reach the waist is their usual and only garment, besides the breechcloth mentioned. When the weather is a bit warm, this robe is set aside, making the leather truss or breechcloth their only attire. This is a much more revealing item than the bark fabric and barely covers the mons veneris, drawn so tight that the entire shape is clearly visible. The floors of most of their houses are level with the ground, although some are sunk two or three feet below. The internal layout of their houses is the same as those of the nations below. They also take pleasure in sculpture. Various figures are carved and painted on the pieces that support the center of the roof, around their doors and beads. They had large amounts of dried anchovies strung on small sticks by their gills, and others that were dried this way were arranged in large sheets connected with bark strings and hung suspended from poles in the roofs of their houses. They also had an abundance of sturgeon and wappetoe, the latter of which they catch in large quantities from the nearby ponds, which are numerous and extensive in the river bottoms and islands. Wappetoe supplies the primary item of trade for these people, which they exchange with the nations below for beads, cloth, and various goods. The natives from the sea coast and lower part of the river will trade their most valuable items for this root. They have several large iron blades, about 3 to 4 feet long, which hang from the heads of their beads. The blade of this weapon is thickest in the center, though thin even there. All its edges are sharp, and its widest part, about 9 inches from the tip, is around 4 inches wide. The design is like this. This is a formidable weapon. They also have heavy wooden clubs made in a similar shape, which I presume they used for the same purpose before acquiring metal. We purchased a significant amount of wappetoe, 12 dogs, and 2 sea otter skins from these people. They were very hospitable and offered us anchovies and wappetoe to eat. Despite their apparent hospitality, they are great beggars; we had scarcely finished our meal of wappetoe and anchovies, which they willingly set before us, before they began to ask for more. We gave them some small items, as is our custom on such occasions, with which they appeared completely satisfied. We also gave the first chief a small medal, which he promptly gave to his wife. After staying here for 2 hours, we set out again and continued our route between this island, which we now call Cath-lah-poh-tle after the nation, and the main shore. Two miles later, we camped in a small prairie on the mainland, having traveled an estimated 19 miles. The river is rising quickly. Today, we saw many large and small swans, geese, and ducks. The swans are particularly abundant in the ponds where wappetoe grows, as they heavily feed on this bulb. The female duck described yesterday is a uniform dark brown with some yellowish-brown specks on her back, neck, and breast. There are countless garter snakes, often found entwined in large bundles of forty or fifty lying in various directions across the prairies. Frogs are croaking in the swamps and marshes; their calls do not differ from those in the Atlantic States and they are not found in the salt marshes near the river's entrance. I heard a large hooting owl calling this evening and saw several crested fishers, along with some large and small blackbirds.
[Clark, March 29, 1806]
Saturday March 29th 1806 we Set out very early this morning and proceeded to the head of deer island and took brackfast. the morning was very cold wind Sharp and keen off the rainge of Mountains to the East Covered with snow. the river is now riseing very fast and retards our progress very much as we are compelled to keep out at Some distance in the Curent to clear the bushes, and fallin trees and drift logs makeing out from the Shore. dureing the time we were at Brackfast a Canoe with three Indians of the Clan-nar-min-na-mon Nation came down, one of those men was dressed in a Salors jacket & hat & the other two had a blanket each, those people differ but little either in their dress manners & Language from the Clatsops & Chinnooks they reside on Wappato Inlet which is on the S W. side about 12 miles above our encampment of the last night and is about 2 miles from the lower point, four other Tribes also reside on the inlet and Since which passes on the South W. Side of the Island, the first tribe from the lower point is the Clannarminamon, on the Island, the Clackster Nation on the main S. W. Shore. the next Cath-lah-cum-up, Clhh-in-na-ta, Cath-lah-nah-qui-ah and at Some distance further up is a tribe called Cath-lah-com-mah-up Those tribes all occupie Single Villages. we proceeded on to the lower point of the Said island accompanied by the 3 Indians, & were met by 2 canoes of nativs of the quath-lah-pah-tal who informed us that the chanel to the N E of the Island was the proper one. we prosued their advice and Crossed into the mouth of the Chahwah-na-hi-ooks River which is about 200 yards wide and a great portion of water into the columbia at this time it being high. The indians inform us that this river is crouded with rapids after Some distance up it. Several tribes of the Hul-lu-et-tell Nation reside on this river. at 3 oClock P.M. we arived at the Quath lah pah tie Village of 14 Houses on main Shore to the N E. Side of a large island. those people in their habits manners Customs and language differ but little from those of the Clatsops and others below. here we exchanged our deer Skins killed yesterday for dogs, and purchased others to the Number of 12 for provisions for the party, as the deer flesh is too poore for the Men to Subsist on and work as hard as is necessary. I also purchased a Sea Otter robe. we purchased wappatoe and Some pashaquar roots. gave a Medal of the Small Size to the principal Chief, and at 5 oClock reembarked and proceeded up on the N E. of an Island to an inlet about 1 mile above the village and encamped on a butifull grassy plat, where the nativs make a portage of their Canoes and Wappato roots to and from a large pond at a Short dis-tance. in this pond the nativs inform us they Collect great quantities of pappato, which the womin collect by getting into the water, Sometimes to their necks holding by a Small canoe and with their feet loosen the wappato or bulb of the root from the bottom from the Fibers, and it imedeately rises to the top of the water, they Collect & throw them into the Canoe, those deep roots are the largest and best roots. Great numbers of the whistling Swan, Gees and Ducks in the Ponds. Soon after we landed 3 of the nativs came up with Wappato to Sell a part of which we purchased. they Continued but a Short time. our men are recoverey fast. Willard quit well & Bratten much Stronger. we made 15 miles to day only.
Saturday, March 29th, 1806, we set out very early this morning and went to the head of Deer Island for breakfast. The morning was very cold, with a sharp, biting wind coming off the snow-covered mountains to the east. The river is rising quickly, which is slowing our progress because we have to stay at a distance to avoid the bushes, fallen trees, and driftwood coming from the shore. While we were having breakfast, a canoe with three Indians from the Clan-nar-min-na-mon Nation came by. One of the men was dressed in a sailor's jacket and hat, while the other two wore blankets. These people are quite similar in their clothing, manners, and language to the Clatsops and Chinooks; they live at Wappato Inlet, which is on the southwest side, about 12 miles from our camp last night and around 2 miles from the lower point. Four other tribes also live on the inlet and along the river that passes on the southwest side of the island. The first tribe from the lower point is the Clannarminamon on the island, and the Clackster Nation is on the main southwest shore. Next is Cath-lah-cum-up, followed by Clhh-in-na-ta, Cath-lah-nah-qui-ah, and further up is a tribe called Cath-lah-com-mah-up. All these tribes occupy individual villages. We continued on to the lower point of the said island, accompanied by the three Indians, and were met by two canoes of natives from the Quath-lah-pah-tal, who told us that the channel to the northeast of the island was the correct one. We followed their advice and crossed into the mouth of the Chahwah-na-hi-ooks River, which is about 200 yards wide and flows significantly into the Columbia River, especially since the water is high right now. The Indians informed us that this river is crowded with rapids further upstream. Several tribes of the Hul-lu-et-tell Nation reside along this river. At 3 o'clock PM, we arrived at the Quath-lah-pah-tie Village, which has 14 houses on the northeast side of a large island. These people, in their habits, manners, customs, and language, are quite similar to those of the Clatsops and others downstream. Here, we traded our deer skins from yesterday for dogs and bought 12 more for provisions for the party, as the deer meat is too poor for the men to live on and work hard. I also bought a sea otter robe. We purchased wappato and some pashaquar roots, gave a small-sized medal to the principal chief, and at 5 o'clock, we re-embarked and continued up on the northeast side of an island to an inlet about a mile above the village, where we set up camp on a beautiful grassy flat. This is where the natives carry their canoes and wappato roots to and from a nearby large pond. In this pond, the natives told us they collect great quantities of pappato, which the women gather by wading into the water, sometimes up to their necks, holding onto a small canoe and using their feet to loosen the wappato or bulb of the root from the bottom. It then floats to the surface, and they gather it and toss it into the canoe. These deep roots are the largest and finest. There are many whistling swans, geese, and ducks in the ponds. Shortly after we landed, three natives came by to sell wappato, part of which we bought. They stayed for a short time. Our men are recovering quickly; Willard is doing well, and Bratten is getting much stronger. We managed to cover only 15 miles today.
[Lewis, March 30, 1806]
Sunday March 30th 1806. We got under way very early in the morning, and had not reached the head of the island before we were met by three men of the Clan-nah-minna-mun nation one of whom we recognized being the same who had accompanied us yesterday, and who was very pressing in his entreaties that we should visit his nation on the inlet S. W. of Wappetoe island. at the distance of about 2 M. or at the head of the quathlahpahtle island we met a party of the Claxtars and Cathlahcumups in two canoes; soon after we were met by several canoes of the different nations who reside on each side of the river near this place. Wappetoe Island is about 20 miles long and from 5 to 10 in width; the land is high and extreemly fertile and intersected in many parts with ponds which produce great quantities of the sagittaria Sagittifolia, the bulb of which the natives call wappetoe. there is a heavy growth of Cottonwood, ash, the large leafed ash and sweet willow on most parts of this island. the black alder common on the coast has now disappeared. we passed several fishing camps on wappetoe island and at the distance of 5 miles above quathlahpotle Island on the N. E. side we halted for breakfast near the place we had encamped on the evening of the 4th of November last; here we were visited by several canoes which came off from two towns situated a little distance above us on wappetoe Island. the 1st of these tribes about 2 miles above us call themselves Clan-nah-quah, the other about a mile above them call themselves Mult-no-mah. from these visiters we purchased a sturgeon and some wappetoe and pashequa, for which we gave some small fishinghooks. these like the natives below are great higglers in dealing. at 10 A.M. we set out and had not proceeded far before we came to a landing place of the natives where there were several large canoes drawn out on shore and several natives seting in a canoe apparently waiting our arrival; they joined the fleet and continued with us some miles. we halted a few minutes at this landing and the Indians pointed to a village which was situated abut 2 miles from the river behid a pond lying parallel with it on the N. E. side nearly opposite to the Clan-nah-quah town. here they informed us that the Sho-toes resided. here we were joined by several other canoes of natives from the Island. most of these people accompanyed us untill 4 in the evening when they all returned; their principal object I beive was merely to indulge their curiossity in looking at us. they appeared very friendly, tho most had taken the precaution to bring with them their warlike implements. we continued our rout along the N. E. shore of the river to the place we had halted to dine on the 4th of Novembr opposite to the center of Immage canoe island where the Indians stole Capt. Clarks tomahawk. here we encamped a little before sunset in a beautifull prarie above a large pond having traveled 23 M. I took a walk of a few miles through the prarie and an open grove of oak timber which borders the prarie on the back part. I saw 4 deer in the course of my walk and much appearance of both Elk and deer. Joseph feields who was also out a little above me saw several Elk and deer but killed none of them; they are very shye and the annual furn which is now dry and abundant in the bottoms makes so much nois in passing through it that it is extreemly difficult to get within reach of the game. Fends killed and brought with him a duck. about 10 P.M. an indian alone in a small canoe arrived at our camp, he had some conversation with the centinel and soon departed. The natives who inhabit this valley are larger and reather better made than those of the coast. like those people they are fond of cold, hot, & vapor baths of which they make frequent uce both in sickness and in health and at all seasons of the year. they have also a very singular custom among them of baithing themselves allover with urine every morning. The timber and apearance of the country is much as before discribed. the up lands are covered almost entirely with a heavy growth of fir of several speceis like those discribed in the neighbourhood of Fort Clatsop; the white cedar is also found hereof large size; no white pine nor pine of any other kind. we had a view of mount St. helines and Mount Hood. the 1st is the most noble looking object of it's kind in nature. it's figure is a regular cone. both these mountains are perfectly covered with snow; at least the parts of them which are visible. the highlands in this valley are rolling tho by no means too steep for cultivation they are generally fertile of a dark rich loam and tolerably free of stones. this valley is terminated on it's lower side by the mountanous country which borders the coast, and above by the rainge of mountains which pass the Columbia between the great falls and rapids of the Columbia river. it is about 70 miles wide on a direct line and it's length I beleive to be very extensive tho how far I cannot determine. this valley would be copetent to the mantainance of 40 or 50 thousand souls if properly cultivated and is indeed the only desireable situation for a settlement which I have seen on the West side of the Rocky mountains.
Sunday, March 30th, 1806. We set out very early in the morning and hadn’t reached the head of the island before we met three men from the Clan-nah-minna-mun nation. One of them we recognized as the same person who had accompanied us yesterday, and he strongly urged us to visit his nation at the inlet southwest of Wappetoe Island, about 2 miles away, or at the head of Quathlahpahtle Island. There, we encountered a group of Claxtars and Cathlahcumups in two canoes. Soon after, we were joined by several canoes from different nations living on each side of the river nearby. Wappetoe Island is about 20 miles long and 5 to 10 miles wide; the land is elevated, extremely fertile, and dotted with ponds that produce large quantities of sagittaria Sagittifolia, known to the natives as wappetoe. Most of the island is covered with dense growths of Cottonwood, ash, large-leafed ash, and sweet willow. The black alder, common on the coast, has now disappeared. We passed several fishing camps on Wappetoe Island, and about 5 miles above Quathlahpotle Island on the northeast side, we stopped for breakfast near the place we had camped the evening of November 4th. Here, we were visited by several canoes that came from two towns situated a little distance above us on Wappetoe Island. The first of these tribes, about 2 miles above us, call themselves Clan-nah-quah; the other, about a mile above them, are known as Mult-no-mah. From these visitors, we bought a sturgeon, some wappetoe, and pashequa in exchange for some small fishing hooks. Like the natives below, they are great traders. At 10 A.M., we set out again and hadn’t gone far before we came to a native landing spot with several large canoes pulled up on the shore, where several natives were sitting in a canoe, seemingly waiting for us. They joined our group and traveled with us for a few miles. We paused for a few minutes at this landing, and the Indians pointed to a village about 2 miles from the river behind a pond that runs parallel to it on the northeast side, almost opposite the Clan-nah-quah town. They informed us that the Sho-toes lived there. We were soon joined by several other native canoes from the island. Most of these people accompanied us until 4 in the evening when they all returned. I believe their main intention was simply to satisfy their curiosity about us. They appeared very friendly, although most had taken the precaution of bringing their weapons. We continued our route along the northeast shore of the river to the spot where we halted for dinner on November 4th, opposite the center of Immage Canoe Island, where the Indians had stolen Capt. Clark's tomahawk. We camped a little before sunset in a beautiful prairie above a large pond after traveling 23 miles. I took a walk of a few miles through the prairie and an open grove of oak trees that borders the back part of the prairie. I spotted 4 deer during my walk, along with signs of both elk and deer. Joseph Fields, who was also out a bit above me, saw several elk and deer but didn't kill any; they are very skittish, and the dry, abundant annual ferns in the bottoms make so much noise when moving through it that it's extremely difficult to get within range of the game. Fends killed and brought back a duck. Around 10 P.M., a Native American alone in a small canoe arrived at our camp. He had a brief conversation with the sentinel and soon left. The natives who inhabit this valley are taller and somewhat better built than those on the coast. Like those people, they enjoy cold, hot, and vapor baths, which they frequently use both in sickness and health, year-round. They also have a unique custom of bathing themselves all over with urine every morning. The timber and overall appearance of the countryside are much as previously described. The uplands are almost entirely covered with a thick growth of fir of several species similar to those described near Fort Clatsop; the large white cedar is also found here. There are no white pines or any other types of pine. We had views of Mount St. Helens and Mount Hood. The first is the most majestic-looking mountain in nature, with a regular conical shape. Both mountains are completely covered with snow, at least the visible parts. The highlands in this valley are rolling, though by no means too steep for farming; they are generally fertile with dark, rich loam and relatively free of stones. This valley ends at its lower edge with the mountainous country bordering the coast and above with the mountain range through which the Columbia passes between the great falls and rapids of the Columbia River. It is about 70 miles wide in a direct line, and its length is believed to be extensive, though I cannot determine how far. This valley could support 40 to 50 thousand people if properly cultivated and is indeed the only desirable location for a settlement I have seen on the west side of the Rocky Mountains.
[Clark, March 30, 1806]
Sunday March 30th 1806 we got under way verry early and had not proceeded to the head of the island before we met with the three men of the Clan-nar-min-a-mon's who met us yesterday brackfast at the upper point of the Island we met Several of the Clackstar and Cath-lah-cum-up in two canoes. Soon after we were overtaken by Several Canoes of different tribes who reside on each Side of the river the three above Tribes and the Cldh-in-na-ta cath-lahnah-qui-up & Cath-lah-com-mah-tup reside on each Side of Wappato inlet and back of Wappato Island which Island is formed by a Small Chanel which passes from the Lower part of Image Canoe Island into an inlet which makes in from the S W. Side, and receves the water of a Creek which heads with the Kil a mox River. this wappato Island is about 18 or 20 Miles long and in places from 6 to 10 miles wide high & furtile with ponds on different parts of it in which the nativs geather Wappato. nearly opposit the upper point of the Isld. behing which we encamped last night, or on the Wappato Isld. is Several Camps of the nativs catching Sturgion. about 5 miles Still higher up and on the N E. Side we halted for brackfast at the place which We had encamped the 4th of November last. here we were visited by several canoes of Indians from two Towns a Short distance above on the Wappato Island. the 1st of those Tribes Call themselves Clan-nah-quah and Situated about 2 miles above us, the other about a mile above Call themselves Mult-no-mah we purchased of those visitors a Sturgion and Some Wappato & quarmarsh roots for which we gave Small fishing hooks. at 10 a.m. we Set out and had not proceeded far before we came to a landing place where there was Several large canoes hauled up, and Sitting in a canoe, appearantly waiting our arival with a view to join the fleet indian who was then along Side of us. this man informed he was a Shoto and that his nation resided a little distance from the river. we landed and one of the indians pointed to the Shoto village which is Situated back of Pond which lies parrelal with the river on the N E. Side nearly opposit the Clan-nah quah village. here we were also joined by Several Canoes loaded with the natives from the Island who Continued to accompany us untill about 4 oClock when they all returned and we proceeded on to the place the Indians Stole my Tomahawk 4th Novr. last and Encamped in a Small Prarie above a large Pond on N. E and opposit the Center of image Canoe Island. capt Lewis walked out and Saw Several deer. Jo. Field Shot at Elk he killed and brought in a fine duck. Soon after I had got into bead an Indian came up alone in a Small Canoe. Those tribes of Indians who inhabit this vally differ but little in either their dress, manners, habuts and language from the Clat Sops Chinnooks, and others on the Sea coast. they differ in a fiew words and a little in the accent. The men are Stouter and much better formed than those of the Sea Coast. more of their womin ware their hair braded in two tresses and hang over each ear. in Stead of the tissue of bark worn by the women below, they ware a kind of leather breech clout as before described as worn by the Womin at the enterance of Lewis's river-the width of a Common pocket Handkerchief or Something Smaller and longer. the two Corners of this at one of the narrow ends are confined in front just above the hips; the other Side is then brought between their legs, Compressed into a narrow folding bundle is drawn tight, and the Corners a little Spred in front tucked at the ends over and around the part first confined about the Waiste. a Small roab which does not reach the Waiste is their usial and only garment commonly worn besides this just mentioned. when the weather is a little worm the roab is thrown aside, and the latter truss or breach clout constitutes the whole of their apparreal. this is a much more indesant article than the tissue of bark, and bearly covers the Mons versus, to which it is drawn So close that the whole Shape is plainly perseived. The Houses are Similar to those already descrbed. they are fond of Sculpture. various figures are carved and painted on the pieces which Support the Center of the roof about their dotes and beads. They are well Supplied with anchoves Sturgion and Wappato. The latter furnishes the principal article of traffic with those Tribes which they despose of to the nativs below in exchange for beeds, Cloath and Various articles. the nativs of the Sea coast and lower part of this river will dispose of their most valueable articles to obtain this root. I saw in Several houses of the Cath lah poh tie Village large Symeters of Iron from 3 to 4 feet long which hangs by the heads of their beads; the blade of this weapon is thickest in the Center tho thin even there, all it's edges are Sharp and its greatest width which is about 9 inches from the point, is about 4 inches. the form is this this is a formable weapon. they have heavy bludgeons of wood made in the Same form nearly which I prosume they use for the Same purpose before they obtained metal. we made 22 Miles only to day the wind and a Strong current being against us all day, with rain. discovered a high mountain S E. Covered with Snow which we call Mt. Jefferson.
Sunday, March 30th, 1806, we set out very early and hadn’t reached the top of the island before we ran into the three men from the Clan-nar-min-a-mon tribe who we met yesterday for breakfast at the upper point of the island. We encountered several members of the Clackstar and Cath-lah-cum-up tribes in two canoes. Soon after, we were joined by several canoes from different tribes living on either side of the river, including the three mentioned and the Cldh-in-na-ta, cath-lahnah-qui-up, and Cath-lah-com-mah-tup, who inhabit both sides of Wappato Inlet and behind Wappato Island. This island is shaped by a small channel that runs from the lower part of Image Canoe Island into an inlet coming in from the southwest, receiving water from a creek that starts with the Kil a mox River. Wappato Island is about 18 to 20 miles long and varies in width from 6 to 10 miles, being high and fertile with ponds in various parts where the natives gather Wappato. Almost directly across from the upper point of the island, where we camped last night, or on Wappato Island, are several native camps catching sturgeon. About 5 miles further up and on the northeast side, we stopped for breakfast at the spot where we camped on November 4th. Here we were visited by several canoes from two tribes located a short distance upstream on Wappato Island. The first of these tribes calls themselves Clan-nah-quah and is situated about 2 miles above us; the other, about a mile above, calls themselves Mult-no-mah. We bought a sturgeon, some Wappato, and quarmarsh roots from these visitors in exchange for small fishing hooks. At 10 a.m., we set out again and hadn’t gone far before we reached a landing point where several large canoes were pulled ashore. Sitting in a canoe, apparently waiting for our arrival to join the fleet, was an Indian who identified himself as a Shoto and said his nation lived a little distance from the river. We landed, and one of the Indians pointed out the Shoto village, which is located behind a pond that runs parallel to the river on the northeast side, almost opposite the Clan-nah-quah village. Here, we were again joined by several canoes filled with natives from the island who continued to accompany us until about 4 o’clock when they all turned back, and we continued on to the spot where the Indians stole my tomahawk last November 4th and camped in a small prairie above a large pond on the northeast, opposite the center of Image Canoe Island. Captain Lewis went out and saw several deer. Jo. Field shot at an elk; he killed it and brought in a fine duck. Soon after I got into bed, an Indian came up alone in a small canoe. The tribes of Indians that inhabit this valley differ only slightly in their dress, manners, habits, and language from the Clatsops, Chinooks, and others on the coast. They vary in a few words and have a slightly different accent. The men are sturdier and better built than those from the coast. More of their women braid their hair in two tresses that hang over each ear. Instead of the bark tissue worn by the women down below, they wear a kind of leather breech clout, as previously described as worn by the women at the entrance of Lewis’s River—the width of a common pocket handkerchief or something smaller and longer. The two corners of this at one of the narrow ends are secured in front just above the hips; the other side is then brought between their legs, compressed into a narrow folded bundle, drawn tight, and the corners spread a bit in front, tucked over and around the part first secured at the waist. A small robe that doesn’t reach the waist is their usual and only garment besides the one just mentioned. When the weather is a bit warm, the robe is set aside, and the latter truss or breech clout makes up their entire outfit. This is a much more revealing article than the bark tissue and barely covers the mons pubis, to which it is drawn so tightly that the whole shape is clearly perceived. The houses are similar to those already described. They enjoy sculpture; various figures are carved and painted on the pieces supporting the center of their roofs and around their doors and beads. They are well supplied with anchovies, sturgeon, and Wappato. The latter is the main trade item with these tribes, which they exchange with the natives below for beads, cloth, and various items. The natives from the coast and the lower part of this river will trade their most valuable items to obtain this root. I saw in several houses of the Cath-lah-poh-tie village large iron weapons, 3 to 4 feet long, hanging by the heads of their beads; the blade of these weapons is thickest in the center, though thin even there, all its edges are sharp, and its maximum width, about 9 inches from the point, is around 4 inches. The form makes this a formidable weapon. They also have heavy wooden clubs made in a similar shape, which I presume they used before obtaining metal. We made only 22 miles today, as the wind and a strong current were against us all day, along with rain. We discovered a high mountain to the southeast covered with snow, which we named Mt. Jefferson.
[Lewis, March 31, 1806]
Monday March 31st 1806 We set out early this morning and proceeded untill 8 A.M. when we Landed on the N. side opposite one large wooden house of the Shah-ha-la nation and took breakfast. when we decended the river in November last there were 24 other lodges formed of Straw and covered with bark near this house; these lodges are now distroyed and the inhabitants as the indians inform us have returned to the great rapids of this river which is their permanent residence; the house which remains is inhabited; soon after we landed two canoes came over from this house with 4 men and a woman. they informed us that their relations who were with them last fall usuly visit them at that season for the purpose of hunting deer and Elk and collecting wappetoe and that they had lately returned to the rapids I presume to prepare for the fishing season as the Salmon will begin to run shortly.—this morning we overtook the man who had visited our camp last night he had a fine sturgeon in his canoe which he had just taken. the Sagittaria Sagittifolia dose not grow on this river above the Columbian valley.—These indians of the rapids frequently visit this valley at every season of the year for the purpose of collecting wappetoe which is abundant and appears never to be out of season at any time of the year. at 10 A.M. we resumed our march accompanyed by three men in a canoe; one of these fellows appeared to be a man of some note among them; he was dressed in a salor's jacket which was decorated in his own fassion with five rows of large and small buttons in front and some large buttons on the pocket flaps. they are remarkably fond of large brass buttons. these people speak a different language from those below tho in their dress habits manners &c they differ but little from the quathlahpohtles. their women wear the truss as those do of all the nations residing from the quathlahpohtles to the entrance of Lewis's river. they differ in the manner of intering their dead. they lay them horizontally on boards and cover them with mats, in a valt formed with boards like the roof of a hose supported by forks and a single pole laid horizontally on those forks. many bodies are deposited in the same valt above ground. these are frequently laid one on the other, to the hight of three or for corps. they deposit with them various articles of which they die possessed, and most esteem while living. their canoes are frequently broken up to strengthen the vault.—these people have a few words the same with those below but the air of the language is intirely different, insomuch, that it may be justly deemed a different language. their women wear longer and larger robes generally, than those below; these are most commonly made of deer skins dressed with the hair on them. we continued our rout along the N. side of the river passed diamond Island and whitebrant island to the lower point of a handsom prarie opposite to the upper entrance of the Quicksand river; here we encamped having traveled 25 miles today. a little below the upper point of the White brant Island Seal river discharges itself on the N. side. it is about 80 yards wide, and at present discharges a large body of water. the water is very clear. the banks are low and near the Columbia overflow and form several large ponds. the natives inform us that it is of no great extent and heads in the mountains just above us. at the distance of one mile from the entrance of this stream it forks, the two branches being nearly of the same size. they are both obstructed with falls and innumerable rappids, insomuch that it cannot be navigated. as we could not learn any name of the natives for this stream we called it Seal river from the great abundance of those animals which we saw about it's entrance. we determined to remain at our present encampment a day or two for the several purposes of examining quicksand river making some Celestial observations, and procuring some meat to serve us as far as the falls or through the Western mountains where we found the game scarce as we decended.—the three indians who accompanied us last evening encamped a little distance above us and visited our camp where they remained untill 9 P.M. in the entrance of Seal river I saw a summer duck or wood duck as they are sometimes called. this is the same with those of our country and is the first I have seen since I entered the rocky mountains last summer.—our hunters who had halted a little below Seal river in consequence of the waves being too high for their small canoe did not join us untill after dark. Drewyer who was out below Seal river informed us that game was very scarce in that quarter, a circumstance which we did not expect.
Monday, March 31, 1806 We set out early this morning and continued until 8 A.M. when we landed on the north side opposite a large wooden house of the Shah-ha-la nation and had breakfast. When we traveled down the river last November, there were 24 other straw lodges covered with bark near this house; those lodges are now destroyed, and, as the Indians tell us, the inhabitants have returned to the great rapids of this river, which is their permanent residence. The house that remains is occupied; soon after we landed, two canoes came over from this house with four men and a woman. They informed us that their relatives, who were with them last fall, usually visit them during that season for hunting deer and elk and collecting wappetoe, and that they had recently returned to the rapids, I assume, to prepare for the fishing season since the salmon will soon start to run. This morning we met the man who visited our camp last night; he had a nice sturgeon in his canoe that he had just caught. The Sagittaria Sagittifolia does not grow on this river above the Columbian Valley. The Indians from the rapids often visit this valley throughout the year to collect wappetoe, which is plentiful and seems to be always in season. At 10 A.M., we resumed our march accompanied by three men in a canoe; one of these men appeared to be notable among them; he wore a sailor's jacket that he had customized with five rows of large and small buttons in front and some large buttons on the pocket flaps. They are quite fond of large brass buttons. These people speak a different language from those below, although in their clothing, habits, manners, etc., they differ little from the Quathlahpohtles. Their women wear the truss, similar to those in all the nations from the Quathlahpohtles to the entrance of Lewis's River. They differ in how they bury their dead. They lay them horizontally on boards and cover them with mats, in a vault formed with boards like the roof of a house supported by forks and a single pole laid horizontally on those forks. Many bodies are placed in the same vault above ground. These are often stacked on top of each other, up to three or four corpses high. They include various items that were important to them in life. They frequently break up their canoes to reinforce the vault. These people have a few words in common with those below, but the tone of the language is entirely different, making it justifiably regarded as a separate language. Their women wear longer and larger robes than those below; these are usually made from deer hides with the hair left on. We continued our route along the north side of the river, passing Diamond Island and Whitebrant Island to the lower point of a beautiful prairie opposite the upper entrance of the Quicksand River. Here we set up camp after traveling 25 miles today. A bit below the upper point of Whitebrant Island, Seal River flows into the north side. It is about 80 yards wide and currently carries a large volume of water. The water is very clear. The banks are low and near the Columbia, which overflows and creates several large ponds. The natives inform us that it is not very extensive and originates in the mountains just above us. About a mile from the mouth of this stream, it forks, with both branches being nearly of the same size. Both are blocked by falls and numerous rapids, making them unnavigable. Since we couldn't learn a name for the stream from the natives, we called it Seal River because of the many animals we saw near its entrance. We decided to stay at our current camp for a day or two for several purposes: to explore Quicksand River, make some celestial observations, and gather some meat to sustain us as far as the falls or through the western mountains, where we found the game scarce on our descent. The three Indians who accompanied us last evening set up camp a little way above us and visited us until 9 P.M. At the entrance of Seal River, I spotted a summer duck, or wood duck, as they are sometimes called. This is the same kind as those in our country, and it’s the first one I've seen since entering the Rocky Mountains last summer. Our hunters, who had paused just below Seal River because the waves were too high for their small canoe, didn't join us until after dark. Drewyer, who was out below Seal River, told us that game was very scarce in that area, which was unexpected.
[Clark, March 31, 1806]
Monday March 31st 1806 we Set out this morning and proceeded untill 8 oClock when we landed on the N. Side opposit one large House of the Shah-ha-la Nation near this house at the time we passed on the 4th of November last was Situated 25 houses, 24 of them were built of Straw & Covered with bark as before mentioned. those of that description are all distroyed, the one built of wood only remains and is inhabited. we overtook the man whome came to our Camp last night and Soon after we landed two canoes Came over from the opposit Side with 5 men & a woman those people informed us that their relations who was with them last fall reside at the Great rapids, and were down with them last fall gathering Wappato which did not grow above, and also killing deer, that they Secured the bark of the houses which they then lived in against their return next fall. they also inform us that their relations also visit them frequently in the Spring to collect this root which is in great quantities on either Side of the Columbia. at 10 A. M we proceeded on accompanied by one Canoe and three men, one of them appeared to be a man of Some note, dressed in a Salors jacket which had 5 rows of large & Small buttons on it. Those people Speak a differant language from those below, with Some fiew Words the Same, the accent entirely different. their dress and Manners appear very Similar. the women ware the truss or breach clout and Short robes, and men roabs only passed up on the N. Side of White brant Island near the upper point of Which a Small river falls in about 80 yards wide and at this time discharges a great quantity of water. the nativs inform us that this river is very Short and heads in the range of mountains to the N E of its enterance into the Columbia the nativs haveing no name which we could learn for this little river we Call it Seal river from the great number of those Animals which frequents its mouth. this river forks into two nearly equal branches about 1 mile up and each branch is crouded with rapids & falls. we proceed on about 2 miles above the enterance of this Seacalf river and imedeately opposit the upper mouth of the quick Sand river we formed a Camp in a Small Prarie on the North Side of the Columbia where we intend to delay one or two days to make Some Selestial observations, to examine quick sand river, and kill Some meat to last us through the Western Mountains which Commences a fiew miles above us and runs in a N. N. W. & S. S. E. derection. The three Indians encamped near us and visited our fire we entered into a kind of a Conversation by signs, of the Country and Situation of the rivers. they informed us that Seal river headed in the mountains at no great distance. quick Sand river was Short only headed in Mt. Hood which is in view and to which he pointed. this is a circumstance we did not expect as we had heretofore deemed a considerable river. Mount Hood bears East from this place and is distant from this place about 40 miles. this information if true will render it necessary to examine the river below on the South Side behind the image canoe and Wappato islands for some river which must water the Country weste of the western mountains to the Waters of California. The Columbia is at present on a Stand and we with dificuelty made 25 miles to day-.
Monday, March 31, 1806, we set out this morning and continued until 8 o'clock when we landed on the north side opposite a large house of the Shah-ha-la Nation. Near this house, when we passed on November 4th last year, there were 25 houses, 24 of which were made of straw and covered with bark as previously mentioned. All of those have been destroyed; only the wooden house remains and is currently inhabited. We caught up with the man who visited our camp last night and soon after we landed, two canoes came over from the opposite side with 5 men and a woman. They told us that their relatives, who were with them last fall, live at the Great Rapids and had gone down with them last fall to gather Wappato, which doesn’t grow upstream, and also to hunt deer. They secured the bark of their houses for their return next fall. They also mentioned that their relatives often visit them in the spring to collect this root, which is abundant on both sides of the Columbia. At 10 A.M., we continued on with one canoe and three men, one of whom seemed to be of some importance, dressed in a sailor's jacket with 5 rows of large and small buttons. These people speak a different language from those downriver, though a few words are the same; their accent is entirely different. Their clothing and manners seem very similar. The women wear a truss or breech clout and short robes, while the men wear robes only. We continued up the north side of White Brant Island, near the upper point where a small river flows in, about 80 yards wide and currently discharging a large amount of water. The natives told us this river is very short and has its source in the range of mountains to the northeast of its entrance into the Columbia. They didn’t have a name for this little river that we could learn, so we called it Seal River, due to the large number of those animals that frequent its mouth. This river forks into two nearly equal branches about a mile upstream, and each branch is filled with rapids and falls. We proceeded about 2 miles above the entrance of this Seal River, and just opposite the upper mouth of the Quick Sand River, we set up camp in a small prairie on the north side of the Columbia, where we planned to stay for a day or two to do some celestial observations, examine Quick Sand River, and hunt some meat to last us through the western mountains, which start a few miles above us and run in a north-northwest and south-southeast direction. The three Indians camped near us and visited our fire; we communicated through signs about the country and the rivers' locations. They informed us that Seal River originates in the mountains not far away. Quick Sand River is short, originating in Mount Hood, which is in sight, and to which they pointed. This was unexpected since we had previously considered it to be a significant river. Mount Hood lies east from this spot and is about 40 miles away. If this information is accurate, we will need to investigate the river downstream on the south side behind Image Canoe and Wappato Islands for another river that must flow across the country west of the western mountains to the waters of California. The Columbia is currently at a standstill, making it difficult for us to cover 25 miles today.
[Lewis, April 1, 1806]
Tuesday April 1st 1806. This morning early we dispatched Sergt. Pryar with two men in a small canoe up quicksand river with orders to proceed as far as he could and return this evening. we also sent a party of three hunters over the river to hunt a large bottom of woodland and prarie above the entrance of the Quicksand river; the ballance of the hunters we sent out in different directions on this side of the Columbia and employed those about camp in making a rope of Elkskin. the Indians who encamped near us last evening continued with us untill about midday. they informed us that the quicksand river which we have heretofore deemed so considerable, only extendes through the Western mountains as far as the S. Western side of mount hood where it takes it's source. this mountain bears E from this place and is distant about 40 miles. this information was corroborated by that of sundry other indians who visited us in the course of the day. we were now convinced that there must be some other considerable river which flowed into the columbia on it's south side below us which we have not yet seen, as the extensive valley on that side of the river lying between the mountainous country of the Coast and the Western mountains must be watered by some stream which we had heretofore supposed was the quicksand river. but if it be a fact that the quicksand river heads in Mount Hood it must leave the valley within a few miles of it's entrance and runs nearly parallel with the Columbia river upwards. we indeavoured to ascertain by what stream the southern portion of the Columbian valley was watered but could obtain no satisfactory information of the natives on this head. they informed us that the quicksand river is navigable a short distance only in consequence of falls and rapids; and that no nation inhabits it.- Sergt. Pryar returned in the evening and reported that he had ascended the river six miles; that above the point at which it divides itself into two channels it is about 300 yds wide tho the channel is not more than 50 yds and only 6 ft deep. this is a large vollume of water to collect in so short a distance; I therefore think it probable that there are some large creeks falling into it from the S. W. the bed of this stream is formed entirely of quicksand; it's banks are low and at preasent overflows. the water is turbid and current rapid.the following are the courses taken by Sergt. Pryor. S. 10° W. 1 M. to a point on the Lard. side passing a large Island on Stard. S. 24° E. 2 m. to the head of an Island near the Lard. shore. S 33° E. 4 m. to a stard. point passing several islands on the Lard. side and a creek 50 yds. wide on Stard at 11/2 miles. the river from hence appeared to bend to the East. he heard falls of water. several different tribes informed us that it heads at Mount Hood. We were visited by several canoes of natives in the course of the day; most of whom were decending the river with their women and children. they informed us that they resided at the great rapids and that their relations at that place were much streightened at that place for the want of food; that they had consumed their winter store of dryed fish and that those of the present season had not yet arrived. I could not learn wheather they took the Sturgeon but presume if they do it is in but small quantities as they complained much of the scarcity of food among them. they informed us that the nations above them were in the same situation & that they did not expect the Salmon to arrive untill the full of the next moon which happens on the 2d of May. we did not doubt the varacity of these people who seemed to be on their way with their families and effects in surch of subsistence which they find it easy to procure in this fertile valley.—This information gave us much uneasiness with rispect to our future means of subsistence. above falls or through the plains from thence to the Chopunnish there are no deer Antelope nor Elk on which we can depend for subsistence; their horses are very poor most probably at this season, and if they have no fish their dogs must be in the same situation. under these circumstances there seems to be but a gloomy prospect for subsistence on any terms; we therefore took it into serious consideration what measures we were to pursue on this occasion; it was at once deemed inexpedient to wait the arrival of the salmon as that would detain us so large a portion of the season that it is probable we should not reach the United States before the ice would close the Missouri; or at all events would hazard our horses which we lelft in charge of the Chopunnish who informed us that they intended passing the rocky mountains to the Missouri as early as the season would permit them wich is as we believe about the begining of May. should these people leave their situation near kooskooske before our arrival we may probably find much difficulty in recovering our horses; without which there will be but little possibility of repassing the mountains; we are therefore determined to loose as little time as possible in geting to the Chopunnish Village. at 3 P.M. the hunters who were sent over the river returned having killed 4 Elk and two deer; the Elk were in good order but the deer extreemly poor. they informed us that game is very plenty in that quarter. the hunters on this side of the river also returned but had killed nothing; they saw a few Elk and deer. there was also much sign of the black bear seen on the other side of the river. we sent a party to bring in the flesh of the Elk and deer that were killed. they did not return this evening. I purchased a canoe from an Indian today for which I gave him six fathoms of wampum beads; he seemed satisfyed with his bargain and departed in another canoe but shortly after returned and canceled the bargain; took his canoe and returned the beads. this is frequently the case in their method of traiding and is deemed fair by them. The last evening and this morning were so cloudy that I could neither obtain any Lunar observations nor equal altitudes.-
Tuesday, April 1st, 1806. This morning, we sent Sergeant Pryar with two men in a small canoe up Quicksand River with orders to go as far as possible and return this evening. We also sent a group of three hunters across the river to hunt a large area of woodlands and prairie above the entrance of Quicksand River; the remaining hunters were sent out in different directions on this side of the Columbia, and those around camp were busy making a rope from elk skin. The Indians who camped near us last night stayed with us until around midday. They told us that the Quicksand River, which we previously thought was significant, only stretches through the Western mountains as far as the southwest side of Mount Hood, where it originates. This mountain lies east of us and is about 40 miles away. This information was confirmed by several other Indians who visited us throughout the day. We were now convinced that there must be another significant river flowing into the Columbia on its south side below us, which we have not yet seen, as the vast valley on that side of the river, situated between the mountainous coast and the Western mountains, must be fed by some stream we previously believed was the Quicksand River. However, if the Quicksand River does originate at Mount Hood, it must exit the valley a few miles upstream and flow nearly parallel to the Columbia River. We tried to find out what stream waters the southern part of the Columbian valley, but we couldn't get any useful information from the locals on this matter. They told us that the Quicksand River is only navigable for a short distance due to falls and rapids, and that no nation inhabits it. Sergeant Pryar returned in the evening and reported that he had traveled six miles up the river; that above the point where it splits into two channels, it is about 300 yards wide, although the main channel is only about 50 yards wide and just 6 feet deep. It's a large volume of water gathered in such a short distance; I believe it's likely that some large creeks flow into it from the southwest. The riverbed is made entirely of quicksand, its banks are low, and currently, it is overflowing. The water is murky and the current swift. The following are the courses taken by Sergeant Pryar: S. 10° W. 1 mile to a point on the left bank, passing a large island; S. 24° E. 2 miles to the head of an island near the left shore; S. 33° E. 4 miles to a point on the right bank, passing several islands on the left side and a creek 50 yards wide on the right after 1.5 miles. From there, the river appeared to bend to the east. He heard waterfalls. Several different tribes informed us that it originates at Mount Hood. Throughout the day, we were visited by several canoes of locals, most of whom were heading downriver with their women and children. They told us they lived at the Great Rapids and that their people there were struggling due to a lack of food; they had eaten their winter supply of dried fish and the catch for this season had not yet arrived. I couldn’t find out if they caught sturgeon, but I assume if they do, it's only in small amounts, as they complained a lot about food scarcity. They also said that the nations upstream were in the same situation and that they didn't expect the salmon to arrive until the full moon next month, which is on May 2nd. We had no reason to doubt the honesty of these people, who seemed to be on their way with their families and belongings in search of food, which they find easy to obtain in this fertile valley. This information made us quite anxious about our future food supply. Above the falls or through the plains to the Chopunnish, there are no deer, antelope, or elk we could rely on for food; their horses were likely very thin at this time of year, and if they have no fish, their dogs must be in the same predicament. Given these circumstances, there seems to be a dismal outlook for obtaining food by any means. We therefore seriously considered what actions we should take. It quickly became clear that it wouldn’t be wise to wait for the salmon, as doing so would take up so much of the season that we probably wouldn't reach the United States before the ice closed in on the Missouri; or, at the very least, we would risk leaving our horses, which we left in the care of the Chopunnish, who told us they planned to head to the Missouri over the Rocky Mountains as soon as the season allowed, which we believe is around the beginning of May. If these people leave their location near Kooskooske before we arrive, we may have a lot of trouble recovering our horses, without which there would be little chance of crossing back over the mountains. We are therefore determined to lose as little time as possible getting to the Chopunnish village. At 3 P.M., the hunters we sent across the river returned after killing four elk and two deer; the elk were in good condition, but the deer were extremely thin. They told us that game is quite abundant in that area. The hunters on this side of the river returned as well but had nothing; they saw a few elk and deer. There were also many signs of black bears seen on the other side of the river. We sent a party to collect the meat from the elk and deer that were killed. They did not return this evening. I bought a canoe from an Indian today, giving him six fathoms of wampum beads; he seemed pleased with the deal and left in another canoe, but shortly after, he returned and canceled the deal, taking his canoe back and returning the beads. This happens frequently in their trading practices and is considered fair by them. Last evening and this morning were so cloudy that I couldn't make any lunar observations or equal altitudes.
[Clark, April 1, 1806]
Tuesday April 1st 1806 This morning early we dispatched Sergt. Pryor, with two men in a Small canoe up quick sand river with orders to proceed as far as he Could and return this evening. we also Sent a party of three hunters over the river to hunt a large bottom of woodland and prarie above the enterance of Q. Sand River; the ballance of the hunters we Sent out in different directions on this Side of the Columbia, and employed those about Camp in makeing a rope of Elk Skin.
Tuesday, April 1st, 1806 This morning, we sent Sergeant Pryor with two men in a small canoe up Quick Sand River, ordering him to go as far as he could and return this evening. We also sent a group of three hunters across the river to explore a large area of woodland and prairie above the entrance of Quick Sand River. The rest of the hunters were sent out in different directions on this side of the Columbia, and those who stayed around camp were busy making a rope out of elk skin.
The information given by the indians to us last night respecting quick Sand river was corrobarated by Sundery other indians who visited us in the Course of this day. we were now convinced that if there information be just; that Some Considerable river which flowed into the Columbia on it's South Side below us which we have not yet Seen, as the extensive vally on that Side of the river lying between the mountanious Country of the Coast, and the western mountains must be watered by Some Stream, which we had heretofore Supposed was the quick Sand river. but if it be a fact that Quick Sand river heads in Mount Hood it must leave the vally within a fiew miles of it's enterance, and runs nearly parrilal with the Columbia River upwards. we indeavered to assertained by what Stream the South portion of the Columbian Vally was watered, but could obtain no Satisfactory information of the waters on this head. they inform us that the quick Sand river is not naviagable any distance in consequence of falls and rapids; and that no nation inhabit it. Sergt. Pryor returned in the evening and reported that he had assended the river Six Miles; that above the point which it divides itself into two Chanels, it is about 300 yards wide tho the Chanel is not more than 50 yards, and only 6 feet deep. the other part of the river from 2 to 4 inches water, the bead of this river is formed entirely of quick Sand; its banks are low and at present overflown. the water is turbed and current rapid.—The following are the Courses taken by Sergt. Pryor.- "S. 10° W. 1 mile to a point on the Lard. Side passing a large island on Stard Side. S 24° E. 2 m. to the head of the island near the Lard Shore. S 33° E 4 m. to a Stard. point passing Several islands on the Lard Side and a Creek 50 yards wide on the Stard. Side at 11/2 miles. the river from hence upwards bend to the East. a fall of water heard at no great distance up this river." Several diffirent tribes of indians inform us that it heads at Mount Hood which is in view.
The information provided by the Native Americans to us last night about Quick Sand River was confirmed by several other tribes who visited us throughout the day. We were now convinced that if their information is accurate, there is a sizable river that flows into the Columbia on its south side below us, which we have not yet seen. The vast valley on that side of the river, situated between the mountainous coastal region and the western mountains, must be fed by some stream, which we had previously thought to be Quick Sand River. However, if Quick Sand River originates at Mount Hood, it must leave the valley within a few miles of its entrance and runs almost parallel to the Columbia River further upstream. We tried to determine what stream supplies water to the southern part of the Columbia Valley but could not find any satisfactory information about it. They told us that Quick Sand River is not navigable for any distance due to falls and rapids and that no tribe inhabits it. Sgt. Pryor returned in the evening and reported that he ascended the river six miles; that above the point where it splits into two channels, it is about 300 yards wide although the channel itself is only about 50 yards and just six feet deep. The other part of the river has between 2 to 4 inches of water, and the bed of this river is entirely made up of quicksand; its banks are low and currently flooded. The water is murky and the current is fast. —Here are the courses taken by Sgt. Pryor: "S. 10° W. 1 mile to a point on the left side, passing a large island on the right side. S. 24° E. 2 miles to the head of the island near the left shore. S. 33° E. 4 miles to a right point, passing several islands on the left side and a creek 50 yards wide on the right side at 1.5 miles. The river from here bends to the east. A waterfall can be heard not far up this river." Several different tribes of Native Americans tell us that it originates at Mount Hood, which is in view.
We were visited by Several Canoes of the nativs in the Course of this day; most of whome were decending the river with their womin and children. they inform us that they reside at the great rapids and that their relations at that place were much Streightened for the want of food; that they had consumed their winter Store of dryed fish and those of the present Season had not yet arived. I could not lern whether they took Sturgion but prosume if they do it is in but Small quantities as they complain much of the Scercity of food among them, they informed us that the nativs above them were in the Same Situation, and that they did not expect the Salmon to arrive untill the full of the next moon which happens on the 2nd of May. we did not doubt the veracity of those people who Seamed to be on their way with their families and effects in serch of Subsistence which they find it easy to precure in this fertile Vally-. This information givs us much uneasiness with respect to our future means of Subsistence, above the falls, on through the Plains from thence to the Chopunnish there are no Deer Antilopes or Elk on which we could depend for Subsistence; their horses are very poor most probably at this Season, and if they have no fish their dogs must be in the Same Situation. under these circumstances there Seams to be a gloomey prospect for Subsistence on any terms; we therefore took it into Serious Consideration what measure we were to pursue on this Occasion; it was at once deemed inexpedient to waite the arival of the Salmon as that would detain us So long a portion of the Season that it is probable we Should not reach the U States before the ice would close the Missouri; or at all events would hazard our horses which we left in charge of the Chopunnish who informed us that they intended passing the Rocky Mountains to the Missouri as early as the Season would permit them which is about the first of May. Should these people leave their Situation near Kooskooske before our arival we may probably find much dificulty in recovering our horses; without which there will be but little possibility of repassing the Mountains; we are therefore determined to lose as little time as possible in getting to the Cho punnish Village.
We were visited by several canoes of the natives today; most of whom were traveling down the river with their women and children. They told us they live at the great rapids and that their relatives there were struggling due to a lack of food; they had exhausted their winter supply of dried fish, and fresh catches for the season hadn't arrived yet. I couldn't find out if they caught sturgeon, but I assume if they do, it's in very small amounts, as they complained a lot about the food shortage among them. They informed us that the natives upstream were in the same situation, and they didn't expect the salmon to arrive until the full moon next month, which falls on May 2nd. We had no doubts about the truthfulness of these people, who seemed to be traveling with their families and belongings in search of food, which they find easy to obtain in this fertile valley. This information gives us a lot of concern regarding our future means of survival. Above the falls and through the plains to the Chopunnish, there are no deer, antelope, or elk to rely on for sustenance; their horses are likely very weak this time of year, and if they have no fish, their dogs must be in the same situation. Given these circumstances, the outlook for finding food on any terms seems grim. We therefore took this matter seriously and considered what actions to take. It quickly became clear that waiting for the salmon would be unwise, as that would delay us so long that we might not reach the United States before the Missouri would freeze over; at the very least, it would put our horses in danger, which we left in the care of the Chopunnish, who informed us they planned to cross the Rocky Mountains to the Missouri as soon as the season allowed, which is around early May. If these people leave their location near Kooskooske before we arrive, we may have a hard time retrieving our horses; without them, it would be almost impossible to cross the mountains. So, we are determined to waste no time getting to the Chopunnish Village.
at 3 P.M. the hunters who were Sent over the river returned, haveing Killed 4 Elk and 2 Deer; the Elk were in good order but the deer extreemly poor. they informed us that game is very plenty in that quarter. the hunters on this Side of the river also returned but had killed nothing; they Saw a fiew Elk and Deer. there were also much Sign of the black bear Seen on the other Side of the river. we Sent a party to bring in the flesh of the Elk and Deer that were killed. they did not return this evening. We purchased a Canoe from an Indian today for Six fathoms of white wampom; he Seemed Satisfied with his bargin and departed in another Canoe but Shortly after returned and canseled the bargain, took his canoe and returned the beeds. this is frequently the case in their method of tradeing and is deemed fair by them. The last evening and this morning were So cloudy that we could neither obtain any Lunar observations nor equal altitudes
At 3 P.M., the hunters who went across the river came back and reported that they had killed 4 elk and 2 deer; the elk were in good condition, but the deer were extremely poor. They informed us that there’s a lot of game in that area. The hunters on this side of the river returned but had not killed anything; they saw a few elk and deer. There were also plenty of signs of black bears seen on the other side of the river. We sent a party to bring in the meat from the elk and deer that were killed, but they didn’t return this evening. Today, we bought a canoe from an Indian for six fathoms of white wampum; he seemed satisfied with the deal and left in another canoe but shortly after returned, canceled the deal, took his canoe back, and returned the beads. This often happens in their trading practices and is considered fair by them. Last evening and this morning were so cloudy that we couldn’t get any lunar observations or equal altitudes.
[Lewis, April 2, 1806]
Wednesday April 2ed 1806. This morning we came to a resolution to remain at our present encampment or some where in this neighbourhood untill we had obtained as much dryed meat as would be necessary for our voyage as far as the Chopunnish. to exchange our perogues for canoes with the natives on our way to the great falls of the columbia or purchase such canoes from them for Elkskins and Merchandize as would answer our purposes. these canoes we intend exchanging with the natives of the plains for horses as we proceed untill we obtain as many as will enable us to travel altogether by land. at some convenient point, perhaps at the entrence of the S. E. branch of the Columbia, we purpose sending a party of four or five men a head to collect our horses that they may be in readiness for us by our arrival at the Chopunnish; calculating by thus acquiring a large stock of horses we shall not only sucure the means of transporting our baggage over the mountains but that we will also have provided the means of subsisting; for we now view the horses as our only certain resource for food, nor do we look forward to it with any detestation or borrow, so soon is the mind which is occupyed with any interesting object reconciled to it's situation. The men who were sent in quest of the Elk and deer that were killed yesterday returned at 8 A.M. this morning. we now enformed the party of our intention of laying in a store of meat at this place, and immediately dispatched two parteis consisting of nine men to the opposite side of the river. five of those we sent below the Quicksand river and 4 above. we also sent out three others on this side, and those who remained in camp were employed in collecting wood making a scaffoald and cuting up the meat in order to dry it. about this time several canoes of the natives arrived at our camp and among others one from below which had on board eight men of the Shah-ha-la nation these men informed us that 2 young men whom they pointed out were Cash-hooks and resided at the falls of a large river which discharges itself into the Columbia on it's South side some miles below us. we readily prevailed on them to give us a sketch of this river which they drew on a mat with a coal. it appeared that this river which they called Mult-no-mah discharged itself behind the Island which we called the image canoe Island and as we had left this island to the S. both in ascending and decending the river we had never seen it. they informed us that it was a large river and run a considerable distance to the South between the mountains. Capt. Clark determined to return and examine this river accordingly he took a party of seven men and one of the perogues and set out 1/2 after 11 A.M., he hired one of the Cashhooks, for a birning glass, to pilot him to the entrance of the Multnomah river and took him on board with him. in their manners dress language and stature these people are the same with the quathlahpohtle nation and others residing in the neighbourhood of wappetoe Island. near the entrance of multnomah river a considerable nation resides on the lower side of that stream by the same name. as many as ten canoes with natives arrived at our camp in the course of the day; most of them were families of men women and children decencing the river. they all gave the same account of the scarcity of provision above. I shot my air gun, with which they were much astonished. one family consisting of ten or twelve persons remained near us all night. they conducted themselves in a very orderly manner. the three hunters on this side of the river returned in the evening they had killed two deer, tho they were so poor and at such a distance from camp that they brought in their skins only. the night and morning being cloudy I was again disappointed in making the observations I wished.
Wednesday, April 2, 1806. This morning, we decided to stay at our current camp or somewhere nearby until we gathered enough dried meat for our journey to the Chopunnish. We plan to either trade our canoes with the locals or buy canoes from them with elk skins and goods that will work for our needs. We intend to trade these canoes with the plains tribes for horses as we travel until we have enough to go entirely by land. At a convenient point, perhaps at the entrance of the southeast branch of the Columbia, we plan to send a group of four or five men ahead to gather our horses so they’ll be ready for us by the time we reach the Chopunnish. By acquiring a large number of horses, we aim to secure transportation for our supplies over the mountains and also ensure we have enough food, as we now see horses as our only reliable source of sustenance. We don't dread this situation; rather, our minds, occupied with this goal, adapt quickly. The men who went to look for the elk and deer we killed yesterday came back at 8 A.M. We informed the group about our plan to stock up on meat here and immediately sent out two parties of nine men to the opposite side of the river. Five went downstream past the Quicksand River and four went upstream. We also sent three others on this side, and those who stayed at camp were busy collecting wood, building a scaffold, and cutting up the meat to dry it. During this time, several native canoes arrived at our camp, including one from downstream that had eight men from the Shah-ha-la nation. These men told us that two young men they pointed out were Cash-hooks, living at the falls of a large river that flows into the Columbia several miles below us. We encouraged them to draw a map of the river, which they did on a mat with a piece of coal. They named this river Multnomah, which flows behind the island we called Image Canoe Island. Since we had passed this island to the south while traveling up and down the river, we had never seen it. They said it was a large river that ran a significant distance south between the mountains. Captain Clark decided to return and explore this river, so he took a group of seven men and one of the canoes, setting out around 11:30 A.M. He hired one of the Cash-hooks, in exchange for a burning glass, to guide him to the mouth of the Multnomah River and brought him on board. In their mannerisms, clothing, language, and size, these people are similar to the Quathlahpohtle tribe and others living near Wappetoe Island. Near where the Multnomah River enters, a sizable tribe goes by the same name lives on the lower side. Throughout the day, up to ten canoes with locals arrived at our camp, most of them families of men, women, and children traveling downriver. They all provided the same accounts of the lack of food upstream. I shot my air gun, which amazed them. One family of about ten to twelve people stayed near us all night and behaved very well. The three hunters on this side of the river returned in the evening; they had shot two deer, but they were so thin and far from camp that they only brought back the skins. With the night and morning being cloudy, I was disappointed again in making the observations I had hoped for.
Fir is the common growth of the uplands, as is the cottonwood, ash; large leafed ash and sweet willow that of the bottom lands. the huckleburry, shallon, and the several evergreen shrubs of that speceis which bear burries have seased to appear except that speceis which has the leaf with a prickly margin. among the plants of this prarie in which we are encamped I observe the passhequo, Shannetahque, and compound firn the roots of which the natives eat; also the water cress, strawburry, flowering pea not yet in blume, the sinquefoil, narrow dock, sand rush which are luxuriant and abundant in the river bottoms; a speceis of the bearsclaw of which I preserved a specemine it is in blume. the large leafed thorn has also disappeared. the red flowering currant is found here in considerable quantities on the uplands. the hunters inform me that there are extensive praries on the highlands a few miles back from the river on this side. the land is very fertile.
Fir trees commonly grow in the uplands, alongside cottonwood and large-leafed ash, while sweet willow flourishes in the bottom lands. The huckleberry, shallon, and various evergreen shrubs that produce berries have mostly vanished, except for the species with prickly-edged leaves. Among the plants in this prairie where we are camped, I see the passhequo, Shannetahque, and compound fern, whose roots the natives eat; also, there's watercress, strawberry, flowering pea (which hasn’t bloomed yet), cinquefoil, narrow dock, and sand rush, which are lush and plentiful in the river bottoms. I preserved a specimen of a type of bearsclaw that is in bloom. The large-leafed thorn has also disappeared. The red flowering currant is found here in significant amounts on the uplands. The hunters tell me there are vast prairies on the highlands just a few miles back from the river on this side. The land is very fertile.
[Clark, April 2, 1806]
Wednesday April 2nd 1806 This morning we came to a resolution to remain at our present encampment or Some where in this neighbourhood untill we had obtained as much dried meat as would be necessary for our voyage as far as the Chopunnish. to exchange our large Canoes for Small ones with the nativs on our way to the great Falls of the Columbia or purchase Such canoes from them for Elk skins and Merchindize as would answer our purposes. these canoes we intend exchangeing with the nativs of the Plains for horses as we proceed untill we obtain as maney as will enable us to travel altogether by land. at Some convenient point, perhaps at the enterance of Lewis's River we intend Sending a party of 4 or 5 men ahead to Collect our horses that they may be in readiness for us by our arrival at the Chopunnish; Calculating by thus acquireing a large Stock of horses we shall not only Secure the means of transporting our baggage over the Mountains, but that we also have provided the means of Subsisting; for we now view the horses as our only Certain resource for food, nor do we look foward to it with any detestation or horrow, So Soon is the Mind which is occupied with any interesting object, reconsiled to it's Situation. The men who went in quest of the Elk and Deer which were killed yesterday returned at 8 A.M. this morning. we now informed the party of our intention of laying in a Store of meat at this place, and imediately dispatched two parties Consisting of nine men to the opposit Side of the river. 5 of them below and 4 above quick Sand River. we also Sent out 3 others on this Side, and those who remained in Camp were employd in Collecting wood makeing a Scaffold and Cutting up the meat in order to dry it. about this time Several Canoes of the nativs arived at our Camp among others two from below with Eight men of the Shah-ha-la Nation those men informed us that they reside on the opposit Side of the Columbia near Some pine trees which they pointed to in the bottom South of the Dimond Island, they Singled out two young men whome they informed us lived at the Falls of a large river which discharges itself into the Columbia on it's South Side Some Miles below us. we readily provailed on them to give us a Sketch of this river which they drew on a Mat with a coal, it appeared that this river which they Call Mult-no'-mah discharged itself behind the Island we call the image Canoe island, and as we had left this Island to the South both in decending & assending the river we had never Seen it. they informed us that it was a large river and runs a Considerable distance to the South between the Mountains. I deturmined to take a Small party and return to this river and examine its Size and Collect as much information of the nativs on it or near its enterance into the Columbia of its extent, the Country which it waters and the nativs who inhabit its banks &c. I took with me Six Men. Thompson J. Potts, Peter Crusat, P. Wiser, T. P. Howard, Jos. Whitehouse & my man York in a large Canoe, with an Indian whome I hired for a Sun glass to accompany me as a pilot. at half past 11 A.M. I Set out, and had not proceeded far eer I saw 4 large Canoes at Some distance above decending and bending their Course towards our Camp which at this time is very weak Capt. Lewis haveing only 10 men with him. I hisitated for a moment whether it would not be advisable for me to return and delay untill a part of our hunters Should return to add more Strength to our Camp. but on a Second reflection and reverting to the precautions always taken by my friend Capt Lewis on those occasions banished all apprehensions and I proceeded on down. at 8 miles passed a village on the South side at this place my Pilot informed me he resided and that the name of his tribe is Ne-cha-co-lee, this village is back or to the South of Dimond island, and as we passed on the North Side of the island both decending & assending did not See or know of this Village. I proceeded on without landing at this village. at 3 P.M. I landed at a large double house of the Ne-er-choki-oo tribe of the Shah-ha-la Nation. at this place we had Seen 24 aditional Straw Huts as we passed down last fall and whome as I have before mentioned reside at the Great rapids of the Columbia. on the bank at different places I observed Small Canoes which the women make use of to gather Wappato & roots in the Slashes. those Canoes are from 10 to 14 feet long and from 18 to 23 inches wide in the widest part tapering from the center to both ends in this form and about 9 inches deep and So light that a woman may with one hand haul them with ease, and they are Sufficient to Carry a woman an Some loading. I think 100 of those canoes were piled up and Scattered in different directions about in the Woods in the vecinity of this house, the pilot informed me that those Canoes were the property of the inhabitents of the Grand rapids who used them ocasionally to gather roots. I entered one of the rooms of this house and offered Several articles to the nativs in exchange for Wappato. they were Sulkey and they positively refused to Sell any. I had a Small pece of port fire match in my pocket, off of which I cut a pece one inch in length & put it into the fire and took out my pocket Compas and Set myself doun on a mat on one Side of the fire, and a magnet which was in the top of my ink Stand the port fire cought and burned vehemently, which changed the Colour of the fire; with the Magnit I turned the Needle of the Compas about very briskly; which astonished and alarmed these nativs and they laid Several parsles of Wappato at my feet, & begged of me to take out the bad fire; to this I consented; at this moment the match being exhausted was of course extinguished and I put up the magnet &c. this measure alarmed them So much that the womin and children took Shelter in their beads and behind the men, all this time a very old blind man was Speaking with great vehemunce, appearently imploreing his gode. I lit my pipe and gave them Smoke & gave the womin the full amount of the roots which they had put at my feet. they appeared Somewhat passified and I left them and proceeded on on the South Side of Image Canoe Island which I found to be two Islands hid from the opposit Side by one near the Center of the river. the lower point of the upper and the upper point of the lower cannot be Seen from the North Side of the Columbia on which we had passed both decending and ascending and had not observed the apperture between those islands. at the distance of 13 Miles below the last village and at the place I had Supposed was the lower point of the image Canoe island, I entered this river which the nativs had informed us of, Called Mult no mah River so called by the nativs from a Nation who reside on Wappato Island a little below the enterance of this river. Multnomah discharges itself in the Columbia on the S. E. and may be justly Said to be 1/4 the Size of that noble river. Multnomah had fallen 18 inches from it's greatest annual height. three Small Islands are situated in it's mouth which hides the river from view from the Columbia from the enterance of this river, I can plainly See Mt. Jefferson which is high and Covered with snow S. E. Mt. Hood East, Mt St. Helians a high humped Mountain to the East of Mt St. Helians. I also Saw the Mt. Raneer Nearly North. Soon after I arived at this river an old man passed down of the Clark a'mos Nation who are noumerous and reside on a branch of this river which receives it's waters from Mt.,Jefferson which is emensely high and discharges itself into this river one day and a half up, this distance I State at 40 Miles. This nation inhabits 11 Villages their Dress and language is very Similar to the Quath-lah-poh-tle and other tribes on Wappato Island.
Wednesday, April 2, 1806 This morning we decided to stay at our current campsite or somewhere nearby until we had enough dried meat for our journey to the Chopunnish. We plan to trade our large canoes for smaller ones with the locals on our way to the great falls of the Columbia, or buy such canoes from them using elk skins and goods that would serve our needs. These canoes we intend to exchange with the Plains natives for horses as we move forward, until we gather enough to travel entirely by land. At some convenient spot, perhaps at the entrance of Lewis's River, we plan to send a group of 4 or 5 men ahead to gather our horses so they’re ready for us when we arrive at the Chopunnish. By acquiring a large number of horses, we'll not only secure a way to transport our gear over the mountains but also provide ourselves with food, as we now see horses as our only sure source of sustenance. We don’t dread this idea; when the mind is focused on something interesting, it quickly adapts to the situation. The men who went in search of the elk and deer killed yesterday returned at 8 A.M. this morning. We informed the group of our plan to stockpile meat here and immediately sent out two teams of nine men to the other side of the river, with 5 going downstream and 4 upstream past Quick Sand River. We also dispatched 3 others on this side, while those who stayed in camp collected wood, built a scaffold, and cut up the meat to dry it. Around this time, several canoes from the natives arrived at our camp, including two from downstream carrying eight men from the Shah-ha-la Nation. They told us they lived on the opposite side of the Columbia near some pine trees they pointed out in the area south of Diamond Island. They identified two young men who lived at the falls of a large river that flows into the Columbia on its south side several miles below us. We convinced them to sketch this river, which they drew on a mat with coal. It turned out this river, called Mult-no'-mah, flowed behind the island we refer to as Image Canoe Island, and since we left this island to the south both downstream and upstream, we had never seen it. They informed us this river is large and runs a significant distance south between the mountains. I decided to take a small team and return to this river to assess its size and gather as much information from the natives about its reach, the area it irrigates, and the people who live along its banks, etc. I took six men: Thompson, J. Potts, Peter Crusat, P. Wiser, T. P. Howard, Jos. Whitehouse, and my man York, in a large canoe with an Indian I hired as a guide. At half past 11 A.M., I set out, and not long after, I spotted four large canoes a short distance above, heading toward our weak camp, as Capt. Lewis had only 10 men with him. For a moment, I wondered if I should return and wait for some of our hunters to come back to strengthen our camp. However, after a second thought and recalling the precautions my friend, Capt. Lewis, always takes on such occasions, I felt reassured and continued down. Eight miles later, I passed a village on the south side, where my guide stated he lived, and mentioned that his tribe is called Ne-cha-co-lee. This village is located behind Diamond Island to the south, and since we passed to the north of the island both downstream and upstream, we didn’t see or know about this village. I continued on without stopping there. At 3 P.M., I landed at a large double house belonging to the Ne-er-choki-oo tribe of the Shah-ha-la Nation. Here we had seen 24 additional straw huts last fall as we passed down and which I have mentioned reside at the Great Rapids of the Columbia. Along the banks, I noticed small canoes that the women use to gather Wappato and roots in the marshes. These canoes measure 10 to 14 feet long and 18 to 23 inches wide, tapering toward both ends, about 9 inches deep, and so light that a woman can easily pull them with one hand; they can carry a woman and some load. I think about 100 of these canoes were piled up and scattered around the woods near this house. The guide indicated that these canoes belong to the inhabitants of the Grand Rapids, who occasionally use them for root gathering. I entered one of the rooms of this house and offered various items to the natives in exchange for Wappato. They were sulky and outright refused to sell any. I had a small piece of port fire match in my pocket, which I cut to an inch in length, put it in the fire, took out my pocket compass, and sat down on a mat beside the fire, with a magnet from my inkstand. The port fire ignited robustly, changing the fire's color; with the magnet, I spun the compass needle rapidly, astonishing and alarming the natives, who laid several parcels of Wappato at my feet and begged me to extinguish the bad fire. I consented; at that moment, the match burned out and went out on its own, so I put away the magnet, etc. This scared them so much that the women and children sought refuge behind their men. Meanwhile, an elderly blind man spoke passionately, apparently imploring his god. I lit my pipe, shared the smoke with them, and gave the women the full amount of roots they had placed at my feet. They seemed somewhat calmed, and I left them, continuing on the south side of Image Canoe Island, which I found to be two islands hidden from the opposite side by another near the center of the river. The lower point of the upper island and the upper point of the lower island cannot be seen from the north side of the Columbia, where we had passed both downstream and upstream without noticing the gap between the islands. Thirteen miles below the last village, at what I thought was the lower point of Image Canoe Island, I entered the river the natives had told us about, called Mult-no-mah River, named by the natives from a nation residing on Wappato Island just below the river's entrance. Multnomah flows into the Columbia on the southeast and is roughly a quarter the size of that grand river. Multnomah had fallen 18 inches from its highest annual level. Three small islands sit at its mouth, obscuring the river from view from the Columbia at this entrance. From here, I could plainly see Mt. Jefferson, which is tall and snow-covered to the southeast, Mt. Hood to the east, and Mt. St. Helens, a high, humped mountain east of Mt. St. Helens. I also saw Mt. Rainier nearly north. Soon after arriving at this river, an old man from the Clark a'mos Nation passed by; they are numerous and reside on a branch of this river fed by the waters from Mt. Jefferson, which is extremely high and drains into this river approximately one and a half days up. I estimate this distance to be around 40 miles. This nation has 11 villages, and their dress and language are quite similar to those of the Quath-lah-poh-tle and other tribes on Wappato Island.
The Current of the Multnomar is as jentle as that of the Columbia glides Smoothly with an eavin surface, and appears to be Sufficiently deep for the largest Ship. I attempted fathom it with a Cord of 5 fathom which was the only Cord I had, could not find bottom 1/3 of the distance across. I proceeded up this river 10 miles from it's enterance into the Columbia to a large house on the N E. Side and Encamped near the house, the flees being So noumerous in the house that we could not Sleep in it. this is the house of the Cush-hooks Nation who reside at the falls of this river which the pilot informs me they make use of when they Come down to the Vally to gather Wappato. he also informs me that a number of other Smaller houses are Situated on two Bayous which make out on the S. E. Side a little below the house. this house appears to have been laterly abandoned by its inhabitants in which they had left Sundery articles Such as Small Canoes mats, bladdles of Oil and baskits bowls & trenchers. and as my pilot informed me was gorn up this to the falls to fish which is 2 days or 60 miles up. this house is 30 feet wide & presisely 40 feet long. built in the usial form of broad boads Covered with bark.
The current of the Multnomah is as gentle as that of the Columbia, gliding smoothly with a calm surface and seems deep enough for the largest ship. I tried to measure its depth with a 5-fathom cord, which was the only one I had, but couldn't find the bottom for a third of the distance across. I traveled 10 miles up this river from its entrance into the Columbia to a large house on the northeast side and camped nearby, as there were so many fleas in the house that we couldn't sleep in it. This is the house of the Cush-hooks Nation, who live at the falls of this river, which my pilot tells me they use when they come down to the valley to gather wapato. He also mentioned that a number of other smaller houses are located on two bayous that branch off on the southeast side a little below this house. It seems that this house was recently abandoned by its inhabitants, who left various items such as small canoes, mats, oil bladders, baskets, bowls, and trenchers. My pilot informed me they went up to the falls to fish, which is two days or 60 miles away. This house is 30 feet wide and exactly 40 feet long, built in the usual style of broad boards covered with bark.
The course and distance assending the Molt no mar R from it's enterance into the Columbia at the lower point of the 3rd Image Canoe island. viz.
The route and distance traveling up the Molt no mar R from its entrance into the Columbia at the lower point of Canoe Island in the third image, namely:
S. 30°W. 2 Miles to the upper point of a Small island in the Middle of Moltnomar river. thence
S. 30°W. 2 miles to the upper point of a small island in the middle of Moltnomar River. Then
S. 10° W. 3 miles to a Sluce 80 yards wide which devides Wappato Island from the Main Stard. Side Shore passing a Willow point on the Lard. Side.
S. 10° W. 3 miles to a sluice 80 yards wide that separates Wappato Island from the main starboard side shore, passing a willow point on the larboard side.
S. 60° E. 3 miles to a large Indian house on the Lard Side below Some high pine land. high bold Shore on the Starboard Side. thence
S. 60° E. 3 miles to a big Native American house on the left side below some high pine land. There’s a steep, bold shore on the right side. Then
S. 30° E 2 miles to a bend under the high lands on the Stard Side
S. 30° E for 2 miles to a curve beneath the elevated land on the Stard Side.
miles 10 passing a Larborad point.
miles 10 passing a Laborad point.
thence the river bends to the East of S East as far as I could See. at this place I think the wedth of the river may be Stated at 500 yards and Sufficiently deep for a Man of War or Ship of any burthen.
Then the river curves to the east of southeast as far as I could see. At this point, I believe the width of the river is about 500 yards and it's deep enough for a man-of-war or any large ship.
[Lewis, April 3, 1806]
Thursday April 3rd 1806. Early this morning Joseph Feilds came over and informed me that Reubin Feilds Drewyer and himself had killed four Elk. as the party with me were now but weak and the Indians constantly crouding about our camp, I thought it best to send a few men to dry the meat on the other side of the river; accordingly Sergt Pryor and two men returned with Jos. Fields for that purpose. the hunters were ordered to continue the chase; while the others were employed in drying the meat. I have had no account as yet from the party below the entrance of Quicksand river. The Indians continued to visit us today in considerable numbers most of them were decending the river with their families. these poor people appeared to be almost starved, they picked up the bones and little peices of refuse meat which had been thrown away by the party. they confirm the report of the scarcity of provision among the natives above. I observe some of the men among them who wear a girdle arround the waist between which and the body in front they confine a small skin of the mink or polecat which in some measure conceals the parts of generation, they also frequently wear a cap formed of the skin of the deer's head with the ears left on it, they have some collars of leather wrought with porcupine quills after the method of the Shoshonees. From this place Mount Hood bears S. 85 E. distant 40 miles. This evening we completed drying the flesh of the Elk which had been brought to camp. at 6 P.M. Capt. Clark returned, having completely succeeded in his expedition. he found the entrance of the large river of which the Indians had informed us, just at the upper part of wappetoe Island. the following is a sketch of the rivers furnished Capt C. by an old and inteligent Indian man.-
Thursday, April 3rd, 1806. Early this morning, Joseph Fields came over to let me know that he, Reubin Fields, and Drewyer had killed four elk. Since the group with me was quite small and the Indians were constantly nearby our camp, I thought it best to send a few men to dry the meat on the other side of the river. So, Sergt. Pryor and two men went back with Jos. Fields for that purpose. The hunters were told to keep pursuing, while the others worked on drying the meat. I haven't heard anything yet from the group down by the entrance of Quicksand River. The Indians continued to visit us today in large numbers, many of them floating down the river with their families. These poor people looked almost starving; they picked up the bones and scraps of meat that had been discarded by our party. They confirmed reports of widespread food shortages among the natives upstream. I noticed some men among them wearing a girdle around their waist, with a small skin of mink or polecat tied in front to partially cover their private parts. They also often wore a cap made from a deer's head skin with the ears still attached, and they had leather collars decorated with porcupine quills, similar to the Shoshones. From this location, Mount Hood is located S. 85 E., about 40 miles away. This evening, we finished drying the elk meat that had been brought to camp. At 6 P.M., Capt. Clark returned, having successfully completed his mission. He found the entrance to the large river that the Indians had told us about, right at the upper part of Wappetoe Island. Below is a sketch of the rivers that Capt. C. received from an older and knowledgeable Indian man.
[Clark, April 3, 1806]
Thursday April 3rd 1806 The water had fallen in the course of last night five inches. I Set out and proceeded up a Short distance and attempted a Second time to fathom the river with my cord of 5 fathom but could find no bottom. the mist was So thick that I could See but a Short distance up this river. where I left it, it was binding to the East of S. E. being perfectly Sati'fyed of the Size and magnitude of this great river which must Water that vast tract of Country betwen the Western range of mountains and those on the Sea coast and as far S. as the Waters of Callifornia about Latd. 37° North I deturmined to return. at 7 oClock A.M. Set out on my return. the men exirted themselves and we arived at the Ne er cho ki oo house in which the nativs were So illy disposed yesterday at 11 A.M. I entered the house with a view to Smoke with those people who Consisted of about 8 families, finding my presence alarmed them So much that the children hid themselves, womin got behind their men, and the men hung their heads, I detained but a fiew minits and returnd on board the canoe. My pilot who Continued in the Canoe informed me on my return that those people as well as their relations were very illy disposed and bad people. I proceeded on along the South Side met five canoes of the Shah-ha-la Nation from the Great rapids with their wives and Children decending the Columbia into this fertile Vally in pursute of provi-sions. my Pilot informed me in a low voice that those people were not good, and I did not Suffer them to come along Side of my Canoe which they appeared anxious to do. their numbers in those canoes who appeard anxious to come along Side was 21 men and 3 boys. at 3 P M. we arived at the residence of our Pilot which consists of one long house with Seven appartments or rooms in Square form about 30 feet each room opening into a passage which is quit through the house those passages are about 4 feet in width and formed of Wide boads Set on end in the ground and reaching to the Ruff which Serves also as divisions to the rooms. The ground plot is in this form 1 1 1 1 is the passages. 2 2 &c. is the apartments about 30 feet square. this house is built of bark of the White Cedar Supported on long Stiff poles resting on the ends of broad boads which form the rooms &c. back of this house I observe the wreck of 5 houses remaining of a very large Village, the houses of which had been built in the form of those we first Saw at the long narrows of the E-lute Nation with whome those people are connected. I indeavored to obtain from those people of the Situation of their nation, if scattered or what had become of the nativs who must have peopled this great town. an old man who appeared of Some note among them and father to my guide brought foward a woman who was badly marked with the Small Pox and made Signs that they all died with the disorder which marked her face, and which She was verry near dieing with when a Girl. from the age of this woman this Distructive disorder I judge must have been about 28 or 30 years past, and about the time the Clatsops inform us that this disorder raged in their towns and distroyed their nation. Those people Speak a different language from those below tho in their dress habits and manners &c. they differ but little from the Quathlahpohtles. theire women ware the truss as those do of all the nations risideing from the quathlahpohtle to the enterance of Lewis's river and on the Columbia above for Some distance. those people have Some words the Same with those below but the air of their language is entirely different, their men are Stouter and much better made, and their womin ware larger & longer robes than those do below; those are most commonly made of Deer Skins dressed with the hair on them. they pay great attention to their aged Severall men and women whom I observed in this village had arived at a great age, and appeared to be helthy tho blind. I provailed on an old man to draw me a Sketch of the Multnomar River ang give me the names of the nations resideing on it which he readily done, See draft on the other Side and gave me the names Of 4 nations who reside on this river two of them very noumerous. The first is Clark a-mus nation reside on a Small river which takes its rise in Mount Jefferson and falls into the Moltnomar about 40 miles up. this nation is noumerous and inhabit 11 Towns. the 2d is the Cush-hooks who reside on the N E. Side below the falls, the 3rd is the Char-cowah who reside above the Falls on the S W. Side neether of those two are noumerous. The fourth Nation is the Cal-lar-po-e-wah which is very noumerous & inhabit the Country on each Side of the Multnomar from its falls as far up as the knowledge of those people extend. they inform me also that a high mountain passes the Multnomar at the falls, and above the Country is an open plain of great extent.
Thursday, April 3rd, 1806. The water level had dropped five inches overnight. I set out and traveled a short distance, trying a second time to measure the river with my 5-fathom cord but couldn’t find the bottom. The mist was so thick that I could only see a short distance upstream. Where I left it, the river was turning to the east of southeast, and I was completely satisfied with the size and scale of this major river that must supply water to the vast area between the western mountain range and the coastal mountains, extending as far south as the waters of California around latitude 37° north. I decided to return. At 7 o'clock A.M., I started my return journey. The men worked hard, and we reached the Ne-er cho ki oo house, where the natives had been very unfriendly yesterday, at 11 A.M. I went into the house to smoke with the people, made up of about eight families, but my presence seemed to alarm them so much that the children hid, women got behind their men, and the men hung their heads. I stayed only a few minutes before returning to the canoe. My pilot, who stayed with the canoe, informed me on my return that these people and their relatives were very unfriendly and untrustworthy. I continued along the south side and met five canoes from the Shah-ha-la Nation, coming down the Columbia with their wives and children in search of food. My pilot whispered that these people were not trustworthy, so I didn’t let them come alongside my canoe, even though they seemed eager to do so. There were 21 men and 3 boys in those canoes who looked like they wanted to join us. At 3 P.M., we arrived at our pilot's home, which was one long house with seven square-shaped rooms, about 30 feet each, opening into a passage that ran through the house. These passages were about 4 feet wide and made of wide boards set upright in the ground, reaching to the roof, which also served as walls for the rooms. The layout of the house looked like this: 1 1 1 1 for the passages, 2 2, etc., for the square rooms of about 30 feet each. This house was built from the bark of white cedar supported on long, sturdy poles resting on broad boards forming the rooms. Behind this house, I noticed the remains of five houses from a large village, similar in construction to those we first saw at the long narrows of the E-lute Nation, to which these people are connected. I tried to learn from them about the status of their nation, whether it was scattered or what happened to the natives who must have populated this great town. An elderly man, who appeared to be significant among them and was the father of my guide, presented a woman badly scarred from smallpox and signaled that everyone had died from the disease that marked her face, which she was very close to dying from as a girl. Given the woman’s age, I estimated that this devastating disease must have happened about 28 or 30 years ago, around the time the Clatsops told us that the disease ravaged their towns and wiped out their population. These people speak a different language from those below, though their dress, habits, and manners differ little from the Quathlahpohtles. Their women wear wraps similar to those of all the nations residing from the Quathlahpohtle to the entrance of Lewis's River and along the Columbia for some distance. Some words are similar to those of the people below, but the tone of their language is entirely different. Their men are sturdier and more well-built, and their women wear longer and larger robes than those below, usually made from deer skins with the hair left on. They show great care for their elderly; several men and women I observed in this village had reached a great age and appeared healthy, though blind. I persuaded an old man to draw me a sketch of the Multnomah River and give me the names of the nations living along it, which he did readily. See draft on the other side. He gave me the names of four nations living on this river, two of which are quite numerous. The first is the Clark a-mus nation, which lives on a small river that rises in Mount Jefferson and flows into the Multnomah about 40 miles upstream. This nation is large and has 11 towns. The second is the Cush-hooks, living on the northeast side below the falls. The third is the Char-cowah, found above the falls on the southwest side, but neither of these two groups are large. The fourth nation is the Cal-lar-po-e-wah, which is very numerous and occupies the land on both sides of the Multnomah from the falls up to the limits of their knowledge. They also informed me that a high mountain crosses the Multnomah at the falls, and beyond that, the land opens into a vast plain.
I purchased 5 dogs of those people for the use of their Oil in the Plains, and at 4 P M left the Village and proceeded on to Camp where I joind Capt. Lewis
I bought 5 dogs from those people to use for their oil in the Plains, and at 4 PM I left the village and headed to camp where I joined Captain Lewis.
The enterance of Multnomah river is 142 miles up the Columbia river from its enterance into the Pacific Ocean-. in my absence and Soon after I left camp Several Canoes of men women and Children came to the camp. and at one time there was about 37 of those people in Camp Capt Lewis fired his Air gun which astonished them in Such a manner that they were orderly and kept at a proper distance dureing the time they Continued with him—as maney as 10 Canoes arrived at Camp in the Course of this day. they all Seem to give the Same account of the Scercity of Provisions above. one family Continued all night and behaved themselves in a very orderly manner.
The entrance of the Multnomah River is 142 miles up the Columbia River from where it flows into the Pacific Ocean. During my absence, shortly after I left camp, several canoes with men, women, and children came to the camp. At one point, there were about 37 of them present. Captain Lewis fired his air gun, which amazed them so much that they remained orderly and kept a respectful distance while they were with him. Throughout the day, as many as 10 canoes arrived at camp. They all seemed to share the same story about the shortage of provisions upstream. One family stayed all night and behaved very respectfully.
on the 3rd Joseph Field returned from the woods and informed the Drewyer Rubin & himself had killed four Elk. Capt L. Sent Sergt. Pryor and two men with Joseph Field to dry the flesh of the Elk in the woods on Scaffolds with fire. the party bilow quick Sand river did not return to day. The Indians continue to vist our Camp in Considerable number from above with their families. these pore people appeared half Starved. they picked up the bones and little refuse meat which had been thrown away by the party. Capt L had the flesh of the 4 Elk which was killed on the 1st inst. dried—Some of the men of the nativs who visited Capt Lewis wore a girdle, with a Small Skin in front and a Cap of the Skin of the deers head &c.
On the 3rd, Joseph Field came back from the woods and told us that he, Rubin, and himself had killed four elk. Captain L sent Sergeant Pryor and two men with Joseph Field to dry the elk meat in the woods on scaffolds over a fire. The party below Quick Sand River didn't return today. The Indians continue to visit our camp in considerable numbers from above with their families. These poor people looked half-starved. They picked up bones and scraps of meat that had been discarded by the party. Captain L had the meat from the four elk that were killed on the 1st dried. Some of the Native men who visited Captain Lewis wore a belt with a small skin in front and a cap made from a deer’s head skin, etc.
[Lewis, April 4, 1806]
Friday April 4th 1806. This morning early we sent Sergt. Ordway in Surch of Sergt. Gass and party below the entrance of the Quicksand river fom whom we have yet had no report. in the course of a few hours both parties returned. Sergt. Gass and party brought the flesh of a bear and some venison. they informed us that they had killed an Elk and six deer tho the flesh of the greater part of those animals was so meagre that it was unfit for uce and they had therefore left it in the woods. Collins who had killed the bear, found the bed of another in which there were three young ones; and requested to be permitted to return in order to waylay the bed and kill the female bear; we permitted him to do so; Sergt. Gass and Windsor returned with him. Several parties of the natives visit us today as usual both from above and below; those who came from above were moving with their families, and those from below appeared to be empeled mearly by curiossity to see us. About noon we dispatched Gibson Shannon Howard and Wiser in one of the light canoes, with orders to proceed up the Columbia to a large bottom on the South side about six miles above us and to hunt untill our arrival. late in the evening Joseph Fields and Drewyer returned. they had killed two deer yesterday, and informed us that the meat would be dryed by midday tomorrow. we directed Drewyer and the two Feildses to ascend the river tomorrow to join Gibson and party, and hunt untill our arrival. this evening being fair I observed time and distance of Ys Eastern Limb from regulus with Sextant. k West.
Friday, April 4th, 1806. This morning, we sent Sergeant Ordway in search of Sergeant Gass and his group downriver from the entrance of the Quicksand River, from whom we had not yet received any updates. After a few hours, both parties returned. Sergeant Gass and his team brought back bear meat and some venison. They told us they had killed an elk and six deer, although most of the meat was so lean that it was not suitable for use, so they left it in the woods. Collins, who had killed the bear, found the den of another bear with three cubs and requested permission to go back to wait for the female bear and kill her; we allowed him to do so, and Sergeant Gass and Windsor went with him. Several groups of locals visited us today as usual, both from upstream and downstream; those coming from upstream were traveling with their families, while those from downstream seemed to be mainly curious about us. Around noon, we sent Gibson, Shannon, Howard, and Wiser in one of the small canoes with orders to head up the Columbia to a big area on the south side about six miles from us and to hunt until we arrived. Late in the evening, Joseph Fields and Drewyer returned. They had killed two deer yesterday and informed us that the meat would be dried by midday tomorrow. We instructed Drewyer and the two Fields brothers to go up the river tomorrow to join Gibson and his group and continue hunting until we arrived. This evening, with fair weather, I observed the time and distance of the Eastern Limb from Regulus with a sextant.
[Clark, April 4, 1806]
Friday April 4th 1806. Mouth of quick Sand River This morning early we Sent Sergt. Ordway in Serch of Sergt. Gass and party below the enterance of quick Sand river from whome we have yet had no report. in the Course of a fiew hours both parties returned. Sergt. Gass and party brought the Flesh of a Bear, and Some venison. they informed us they had killed an Elk and Six Deer tho the flesh of the greater part of those Animals were So Meagre that it was unfit for uce, and they had therefore left it in the woods. Collins who had killed the Bear, found the bead of another in which there was three young ones; and requested to be permited to return in order to waylay the bed and kill the female bear; we permited him to do So; Sergt. Gass and Windser returned with him. Several parties of the nativs visit us to day as usial both from above and below; those who came from above were moveing with their families, and those from below appeared to be impeled mearly by curiosity to See us. About noon we dispatched Gibson, Shannon, Howard & Wiser in one of the light Canoes, with orders to proceed up the Columbia to a large bottom on the South Side about Six Miles above us and there to hunt untill our arrival. late in the evening Jos Fields and Drewyer returned with a load of dried meat. they had killed two deer yesterday and informed us that the meat would be dryed by Mid-day tomorrow. We directed Drewyer and Field's to assend the river tomorrow and join Gibson & party, and hunt untill our arrival. this evening being fair observed time and distance of moon's Eastern Limb from regulus with Sextant * West
Friday, April 4, 1806. Mouth of Quick Sand River. This morning, we sent Sergeant Ordway to search for Sergeant Gass and his group below the entrance of Quick Sand River, from whom we had not yet received any report. After a few hours, both parties returned. Sergeant Gass and his team brought back bear meat and some venison. They informed us that they had killed an elk and six deer, but most of the meat was so lean that it was unfit to eat, so they left it in the woods. Collins, who had killed the bear, found the den of another bear with three cubs in it, and he requested permission to go back to trap the den and kill the female bear; we allowed him to do so, and Sergeant Gass and Windsor went with him. Several groups of natives visited us today as usual, both from upstream and downstream; those from above were moving with their families, while those from below seemed to be driven purely by curiosity to see us. Around noon, we sent Gibson, Shannon, Howard, and Wiser in one of the light canoes, with orders to go up the Columbia River to a large area on the south side about six miles upstream and to hunt there until we arrived. Late in the evening, Jos Fields and Drewyer returned with a load of dried meat; they had killed two deer yesterday and told us that the meat would be dried by midday tomorrow. We instructed Drewyer and Fields to head upstream tomorrow and join Gibson and his group to hunt until we arrived. This evening, the weather was clear, and I measured the time and distance of the moon's eastern limb from Regulus with a sextant.
[Lewis, April 5, 1806]
Saturday April 5th 1806. This morning was so cloudy that I could not obtain any lunar observations with a Aquila as I wished. Joseph Fields and Drewyer departed this morning agreeably to their orders of last evening. at 9 A.M. we Sent Sergt. Ordway and a party to assist Sergt. Pryor in bringing in the meat of four Elk which he had dryed. at 1 P. M the party returned with the meat. it had been so illy dryed that we feared it would not keep. we therefore directed it to be cut thinner and redryed over a fire this evening, as we purpose setting out early in the morning. the deerskins which we have had cased for the purpose of containing our dryed meat are not themselves sufficiently dryed for that purpose, we directed them to be dryed by the fire also. the weather has been so damp that there was no possibility of pounding the meat as I wished.—we were visited today by several parties of the natives as usual; they behaved themselves in a very orderly manner. Observed Magnetic Azimuth and altitude of the sun with Circumferenter and Sextant.
Saturday, April 5th, 1806. This morning was so cloudy that I couldn't get any lunar observations with my Aquila as I had hoped. Joseph Fields and Drewyer left this morning according to their orders from last night. At 9 A.M., we sent Sgt. Ordway and a team to help Sgt. Pryor bring in the meat of four elk that he had dried. At 1 P.M., the team returned with the meat. It had been dried poorly, and we were worried it wouldn't last. So, we had it cut thinner and redried over a fire this evening, as we plan to set out early in the morning. The deerskins we had prepared to hold our dried meat aren't dry enough for that purpose, so we also instructed them to be dried by the fire. The weather has been so damp that I couldn't pound the meat as I wanted. We were visited today by several groups of natives as usual; they acted very orderly. I observed the magnetic azimuth and altitude of the sun with the circumferenter and sextant.
Saw the Log cock, the hummingbird, gees ducks &c today. the tick has made it's appearance it is the same with those of the Atlantic States. the Musquetoes have also appeared but are not yet troublesome.—this morning at 10 OClock Sergt. Gass returned with Collins and Windsor they had not succeeded in killing the female bear tho they brought the three cubs with them. the Indians who visited us today fancyed these petts and gave us wappetoe in exchange for them. Drewyer informed me that he never knew a female bear return to her young when they had been allarmed by a person and once compelled to leave them. The dogwood grows abundantly on the uplands in this neighbourhood. it differs from that of the United States in the appearance of it's bark which is much smoother, it also arrives here to much greater size than I ever observed it elsewhere sometimes the stem is nearly 2 feet in diameter. we measured a fallen tree of fir No 1 which was 318 feet including the stump which was about 6 feet high. this tree was only about 31/2 feet in diameter. we saw the martin, small gees, the small speckled woodpecker with a white back, the Blue crested Corvus, ravens, crows, eagles Vultures and hawks. the mellow bug and long leged spider have appeared, as have also the butterfly blowing fly and many other insects. I observe not any among them which appear to differ from those of our country or which deserve particular notice.
Saw the log cock, the hummingbird, geese, ducks, etc., today. The tick has shown up, similar to those in the Atlantic States. The mosquitoes have also arrived but aren’t a problem yet. This morning at 10 o'clock, Sergeant Gass returned with Collins and Windsor. They didn’t manage to kill the female bear, but they brought back the three cubs. The Indians who visited us today liked these pets and gave us wapato in exchange for them. Drewyer told me he had never seen a female bear return to her young once they had been startled by a person and compelled to leave. The dogwood grows abundantly in the uplands around here. It looks different from that in the United States; its bark is much smoother, and it reaches a much larger size than I’ve ever seen elsewhere, sometimes with a trunk nearly 2 feet in diameter. We measured a fallen fir tree, Number 1, which was 318 feet tall, including the stump that was about 6 feet high. This tree was only about 3.5 feet in diameter. We saw the martin, small geese, the small speckled woodpecker with a white back, the blue-crested crow, ravens, crows, eagles, vultures, and hawks. The mellow bug and long-legged spider have appeared, as well as the butterfly, the blowing fly, and many other insects. I don’t notice any among them that seem different from those in our country or that deserve special mention.
[Clark, April 5, 1806]
Saturday April 5th 1806. This morning was So Cloudy that we could not obtain any lunar observations with a Aquila as we wished.
Saturday, April 5th, 1806. This morning was so cloudy that we couldn’t get any lunar observations with an Aquila as we wanted.
Joseph Field & Drewrey left us this morning agreeably to their orders of last evening. at the Same time we Sent Sergt. Ordway and five men to assist Sergt. Pryor in bringing in the meat of four Elk which he had dried in the woods. at 1 p.m.the party returned with the meat. it was not Sufficiently dryed to keep. we had it cut thiner and redryed over a fire this evening, as we purpose Setting out early in the morning. the dear skins which we had cased for the purpose of holding our dried meat is not Sufficently dry for that purpose, we derected them to be dried by the fire also. the weather being So damp that there was no possibullity of pounding the meat as I wished.—We were visited by Several parties of the nativs to day; they behaved themselves in a very orderly manner.
Joseph Field & Drewrey left us this morning as per their orders from last night. At the same time, we sent Sergeant Ordway and five men to help Sergeant Pryor bring in the meat from four elk that he had dried in the woods. At 1 p.m., the party returned with the meat. It wasn't dried enough to stay preserved, so we had it cut thinner and redried over a fire this evening since we plan to set out early in the morning. The deer skins we had prepared to hold our dried meat aren't dry enough for that purpose, so we directed that they be dried by the fire as well. The weather has been so damp that it was impossible to pound the meat as I wanted. We were visited by several groups of natives today; they behaved in a very orderly manner.
Saw the Log cock, the humming bird, Geese, Ducks &c. to day. the tick has made it's appearance it is the Same with those of the Atlantic States. the Musquetors have also appeared, but are not yet much troublesom.—this morning at 10 A M Sergt. Gass returned with Collins and Windser they had not Succeeded in killing the female bear, tho they brought the three cub's with them. the Indians who visited us to day fancied those Petts and gave us wappato in exchange for them. Fir and White Cedar is the common growth of the up lands, as is the Cotton wood, ash, large leafed Ash and Sweet Willow that of the bottom lands. The Huckleberry, shallon, and the Several evergreen Shrubs, of that Speces that bears berries have Seased to appear, except that Species which has the leaf with a prickley Margin. among the plants of this prarie in which we are encamped I observe the pashequo, Shannetahque, and Compound firn, the root of which the nativs eate; also the water cress, Straw berry flowering pea not yet in blume, narrow dock, and rush which are luxuriant and abundent in the river bottoms. the large leafed thorn has also disappeard. The red flowering Current is found here in considerable quantities on the upland, and the Common Dog wood is found on either Side of the river in this neighbourhood and above Multnomah river. The Country on either Side is fertile, the bottom on the South Side is wide and inter sperced with Small ponds in which the nativs gather their Wappato. back of this bottom the Country rises to about 200 feet and the Soil is very rich as that also above q Sandy river quite to the Mountains. the Country on the N. Side from a fiew Miles above this place as low down as the enterance of Cah-wah-na-ki-ooks River rises to the hight generally of 150 or 200 feet is tolerably leavel, thickly timbered with Fir and White Cedar. the Soil of the richest quallity. Some Small Praries on the bank of the river. That portion of Country below as low down as the enterance of Cah-wah na ki ooks River is a broken rich Country. the hills are high, the bottom lands as before mentioned and fertile &c.-The Country a fiew miles up the Multnomah River rises from the river bottoms to the hight of from 2 to 300 feet and is rich & fertile. Some Plains can be Seen to the N. E. of our Camp of 10 or 12 miles in Secumference The Hunters & Serjt Pryor informed us that they had Measured a tree on the upper Side of quick Sand River 312 feet long and about 4 feet through at the Stump.
Saw the log cock, the hummingbird, geese, ducks, etc., today. The tick has shown up, just like those in the Atlantic States. The mosquitoes have also appeared but aren’t too bothersome yet. This morning at 10 AM, Sergeant Gass returned with Collins and Windser. They didn’t succeed in killing the female bear, although they brought back the three cubs. The Indians who visited us today liked those pets and traded us wappato for them. Fir and white cedar are common in the uplands, while cottonwood, ash, large-leafed ash, and sweet willow are found in the bottomlands. The huckleberry, shallon, and several evergreen shrubs that bear berries have stopped appearing, except for the species with prickly-edged leaves. Among the plants in this prairie where we’re camping, I see pashequo, shannetahque, and compound fern, whose roots the natives eat; also watercress, strawberry, flowering pea (not yet in bloom), narrow dock, and rushes that are lush and abundant in the river bottoms. The large-leafed thorn has also disappeared. The red-flowering current is found here in significant quantities on the uplands, and common dogwood is found on both sides of the river in this area and above Multnomah River. The land on either side is fertile; the bottomland on the south side is wide and interspersed with small ponds where the natives gather their wappato. Behind this bottomland, the land rises to about 200 feet, and the soil is very rich, just like the land above Sandy River extending to the mountains. The land on the north side, a few miles above this spot down to the entrance of Cah-wah-na-ki-ooks River, rises generally to about 150 or 200 feet, is fairly level, and thickly wooded with fir and white cedar. The soil here is of the highest quality. There are some small prairies along the riverbank. The portion of the land below to the entrance of Cah-wah-na-ki-ooks River is hilly and rich. The hills are high, and the bottomlands, as mentioned before, are fertile. The land a few miles up the Multnomah River rises from the river bottoms to a height of 200 to 300 feet and is rich and fertile. Some plains can be seen to the northeast of our camp, which are 10 or 12 miles in circumference. The hunters and Sergeant Pryor told us that they measured a tree on the upper side of Quick Sand River, which was 312 feet long and about 4 feet in diameter at the stump.
[Lewis, April 6, 1806]
Sunday April 6th 1806. This morning we had the dryed meat secured in skins and the canoes loaded; we took breakfast and departed at 9 A.M. we continued up the N. side of the river nearly to the place at which we had encamped on the 3rd of Nov. when we passed the river to the south side in quest of the hunters we had sent up yesterday and the day before. from the appearance of a rock near which we had encamped on the 3rd of November last I could judge better of the rise of the water than I could at any point below. I think the flood of this spring has been about 12 feet higher than it was at that time; the river is here about 11/2 miles wide; it's general width from the beacon rock which may be esteemed the head of tide water, to the marshey islands is from one to 2 miles tho in many places it is still wider. it is only in the fall of the year when the river is low that the tides are persceptable as high as the beacon rock. this remarkable rock which stands on the North shore of the river is unconnected with the hills and rises to the hight of seven hundred feet; it has some pine or reather fir timber on it's nothern side, the southern is a precipice of it's whole hight. it rises to a very sharp point and is visible for 20 miles below on the river. at the distance of ten miles from our encampment we met with our hunters in the upper end of the bottom to which we had directed them on the South side of the river. they had killed three Elk this morning and wounded two others so badly that they expected to get them. we therefore determined to encamp for the evening at this place in order to dry the meat, in surch of which we sent a party immediately and employed others in preparing scaffoalds and collecting firewood &c against their return. we found some indians with our hunters when we arrived; these people are constantly hanging about us.—As has been before mentioned Capt C set out with a party of seven men on 2ed inst. in surch of the entrance of the Multnomah river. he departed at 1/2 after 11 A. M and directed his course along the Southern side of the river. at the distance of 8 miles he passed the village of the Na-cha-co-lee tribe of the E-lute Nation; this village is not large and being situated on the main shore opposite to and S. of the Diamond Island it was concealed by that island from our view both ascending and decending the Columbia as we passed near the Northern shore. Capt C. passed this village without halting and continued his rout untill 3 P.M. when he arrived at a large double house of the Ne-er-cho-ki-oo tribe of the Shah'ha-la nation; at this place we had seen 24 additional straw and bark huts as we passed down last fall, the inhabitants of which as I have before mentioned reside at the great rapids of the Columbia river. about this place in different directions Capt C. saw a great number of small canoes lying scattered on the bank. these small canoes are employed by the women in collecting wappetoe; with one of these a woman enters a pond where the Sagitaria Sagittifolia grows frequently to her breast in water and by means of her toes and feet breakes the bulb of this plant loos from the parent radicle and disincumbering it from the mud it immediately rises to the surface of the water when she seizes it and throws it into her canoe which she always keeps convenient to her. they will remain in the water for hours together in surch of this bulb in middle of winter. those canoes are from 10 to 14 feet in length, from 18 to 23 inches in width near the middle tapering or becoming narrower towards either extremity and 9 inches deep their form is thus. they are so light that a woman can draw them over land or take them with ease through the swamps in any direction, and are sufficient to carry a single person and several bushells of roots. Capt. Clarks pilot informed him that the small canoes which he saw in the vicinity of this lodge were the property of the Shah-ha-las who used them occasionally when they visit this neighbourhood for the purpose of collecting roots. while at this place Capt C. entered one of the appartments of the house and offered several articles to the natives in exchange for wappetoe, they appeared to be in an ill humour and positively refused to let him have any. Capt. C. sat himself down near the fire and having a part of a portfire match in his pocket cut of a small peice of it and threw it in the fire; at the same time he took out his pocket compass and by means of a magnet which he had in the top of his inkstand he turned the nedle of the compass about very briskly; the match took fire and birned vehemently; the indians astonished and allarmed at these exhibitions, ran and brought several parcels of wappetoe and laid at his feet and begged that he would put out the bad fire; to this he consented; at this moment the match being exhausted was of course extenguished and he put up his compass & magnet. they were now much more complisant, tho the women and children were yet so much allarmed that they took refuge in their beads and behing the men who were seting opposite to Capt. C. during the whole of this farcical seen an old man who was seting by continued to speak with great vehemence apparently imploring his god for protection. Capt. C. gave them an adiquate compensation for their roots and having lighted his pipe smoaked with the men. they appeared in a great measure to get the better of their allarm and he left them and continued his rout along the south side of Image canoe Island which he found to be three islands, the one in the center concealing the apperture between the two others in such manner that from the north side of the river where we have previously passed they all appeared to form one island only. at the distance of 13 miles below the village just mentioned, and at the lower point of what we have heretofore deemed the image canoe Island, Capt C. entered the Multnomah river so called by the natives from a nation of that name who reside on wappetoe island a little below the entrance of this river? Multnomah river discharges itself on the S. side of the Columbia 140 miles above the entrance of the latter into the Pacific Ocean, and may be justly esteemed one fourth of that noble river. Capt. C. found that this river had attained it's greatest annual hight and had now fallen about 18 inches. it has three small islands in it's mouth which conceal the river from the view of those who pass with the stream of the Columbia. from the Columbia at the entrance of the Multonomah river Mount Jefferson bears S. E. this is a noble mountain. I think equally as high as Mount St. Helines but it's distance being much greater than that of the latter, so great a portion of it dose not appear above the range of mountains which lie betwen boath those stupendious mountains and this point of view. like mount St. Heleans it's figure is a regular cone and is covered with eternal snow. M. St. Heleans from the same point boar N ____, Mount Hood due East, and Mount Raniei nearly North. there is also a very high humped mountain a little to the East of Mount St. Heleans which appears to lie in the same chain with those conic pointed mountains before mentioned. soon after Capt Clark entered the Multnomah river he was met by an old Indian man alone in a canoe decending the river, the pilot had some conversation with him and informed Capt. C. that this was a man of the Clark-a'-mas nation who are numerous and inhabit eleven vilages on either side of a river of the same name which has it's source in Mount Jefferson and after tranversing a woody and fertile country discharges itself into the Multnomah river on it's E. side at the distance of about 40 miles from it's junction with the Columbia. the Clarkamas river is navigable for canoes a great distance, from the Indian account almost to the foot of mount, Jefferson. the nation who inhabit it's borders live principally on fish with which this stream abounds and also on roots which they procure on it's borders. they sometimes also come down to the Multnomah and Columbia in surch of Wappatoe. they do not differ essentially in their language dress &c from the Quathlahpohtles and others in the vicinity of wappetoe island. The current of the Multnomah river is as gentle as that of the Columbia, glides smoothly with an even surface, and appears to possess sufficient debth for the largest ship. Capt. C. attempted to sound it with a cord of 5 fathoms which was the longest in his possession but could not find bottom at this debth for at least one third of the width of the river. Capt. C. ascended this river ten miles to a large wood house on the East side of the river, near which he encamped for the evening; the house being infested with such swarms of flees that they could not remain in it. this his guide informed him was the house of the Cush-hooks nation who reside just below the falls of the Multnomah river and who occasionally reside at this place for the purpose of collecting wappetoe. at present this house appeared to have been lately abandoned by the natives who had left therein exposed to every visiter various articles such as small canoes, mats, bladders of train oil, baskets, bowls and trenchers. this is a strong evidence of the honesty of the natives with rispect to the property of each other, but they have given us several evidences that they do not pay the same rispect to the property of white men. his guide further informed him that there were a number of small houses belonging to the last mentioned nation situated on two bayous which make out of the river a little above this large hose on the East side; that the inhabitants of these as well as those of the large house had gone up to the falls of the Multnomah river for the purpose of taking fish. these falls are situated at the distance of 2 days travel from the junction of the Multnomah and Columbia rivers agreeably to the Indian account which we have estimated at 60 miles or 20 m. above the entrance of Clarkamus river. Capt C. took the dementions of the hose of the Ne-mal-quin-ner tribe of the Cushhooks nation near which he encamped on the 2ed inst. and found it presisely thirty feet by 40 squar constructed with broad boards and covered with the bark of the white cedar or arborvita; the floor is on a level with the surface of the earth and the internal arrangement is similar to those of the natives of the Sea coast.—these people carry on a trafic with the Killamucks of the coast across the mountains and by way of the Killamucks river from the Killamucks they obtain their train oil. The courses and distances taken by Capt. Clark in ascending the Multnomah river from it's junction with the Columbia river, commencing at the lower extremity of the Image canoe Islands are as follows. (viz) S. 30° W. 4 m. to the upper point of a small island in the center of Multnomah river. thence S 10° W. 3 m. to a sluce 80 yds. wide on Stard. which dividing wappetoe Island from the main land discharges itself into wappetoe inlet passed a willow point on Lard. S. 60° W. 3 ms. to a large indian house on the Lard. side, just below some high fir land the shore is bold and high on Stard. side. S 30° E. 2 ms. to the center of a bend under The highlands on Stard. side, passing a Lard. point; from hence the river directed it's course to the E. of S. E. as far as Capt. C. could perceive it.—at this place the Multnomah river is 500 yds. wide and sufficiently deep to admit the largest ship. the river appears to be washing away it's banks in some places, and has more sandbars and willow points than the Columbia.On the morning of the 3rd inst. Capt. Clark observed that the water had fallen in the course of the night about 5 inches. he set out early and proceeded up the river a short distance few miles and attempted a second time to fathom it but with the same success as before he could nt find bottom with his cord of 5 fathoms for the distance of half the width of the stream. Capt C. having fully satisfyed himself of the magnitude of this great river he set out on his return at 7 A.M. I have but little doubt but that this river waters a vast tract of country lying between the Western mountains and the mountainous country of the sea coast extending as far south as the waters of the gulph of Callifornia or about Latitude 37° North. at 11 A.M. Capt. C. arrived at the Ne-er-cho-ki-oo house where he had allarmed the inhabtants yesterday. he halted here a few minutes to smoke with these people who consisted of eight families. he found that his presents excited fresh allarm particularly among the women and children who hid themselves and took refuge behind the men as yesterday; the men held down their heads and seemed much conserned; he therefore remained in the house but a few minutes, returned to his canoe and pursued his rout. his pilot now informed him that these people as well as their relations at the falls of the Columbia were illy disposed bad men. soon after he set out he met five canoes on board of which there were as many families of the Shah-ha-la nation decending the river in surch of subsistence. they were extreemly anxious to come along side, but he forbid their doing so as their number was too considerable there being 21 men on board these canoes. his pilot told him that they were mischevous bad men. at 3 P.M. he arrived at the present residence of his pilot on the South side of the river opposite the Diamond Island. here he halted about an hour he found this house very large; it consisted of seven appartments in one range above ground each about 30 feet square. the entrances to these appartments were from passages which extended quite across the house, about 4 feet wide and formed like the walls of the hose of broad boards set on end extending from beneath the floor to the roof of the house. the apperture or hole through which they enter all those wooden houses are remarkably small not generally more than 3 feet high and about 22 inches wide. the ground plot of the Nechecolee house is thus 1 1 1 1 the passages of 4 feet and 2 2 &c. the appartments of 30 feet square. this house is covered with the bark of the white cedar, laid on in a double course, supported by rafters and longitudinal round poles attatched to the rafters with cores of this bark. the peices of the cedar bark extend the whole length of the side of the roof and jut over at the eve about 18 inches. at the distance of 18 inches transverse splinters of dry fir is inserted through the cedar bark in order to keep it smooth and prevent it's edges from colapsing by the heat of the sun; in this manner the natives make a very secure light and lasting roof of this bark. in the vicinity of this house Capt. Clark observed the remains of five other large houses which appeared to have been sunk in the ground several feet and built after the method of those of the Elutes nation at the great narrows of the columbia with whom these people claim affinity. their language is the same with the Elutes, tho in their habits, dress manners &c they differ but little from the Quathlahpohtles and others in this neighborhood. they make use of some words common to their neighbours but the air of their language is entirely different. they are much better formed and their men larger than the nations below. their women wear larger and longer robes which are made principally of deerskins dressed in the hair. they pay great rispect to their aged persons. Capt. C. observed several persons of both sexes who appeared to have arrived to great age yet they appeared perfectly healthy tho most of them perfectly blind. the loss of sight I have observed to be more common among all the nations inhabiting this river than among any people I ever observed. they have almost invariably soar eyes at all stages of life. the loss of an eye is very common among them; blindness in perdsons of middle age is by no means uncommon, and it is almost invariably a concommitant of old age. I know not to what cause to attribute this prevalent deficientcy of the eyes except it be their exposure to the reflection of the sun on the water to which they are constantly exposed in the occupation of fishing. Capt. C. enquired of the Nechecole the cause of the decline of their village. an old man who appeared to be of some note among them and the father of his guide brought forward a woman who was much marked with the small pox, and made signs that the inhabitants of those houses which he saw in ruins had all died with the disorder which marked the face of the woman and with which this woman was very near dying when a girl. from the apparent age of the woman Capt. C. supposed that it was about 28 or 30 years since this disorder had prevailed among these people. this is about the time which we have supposed that it prevailed among the Clatsops and others of the coast. Capt C. now prevailed on this old man to give him a sketch of the Multnomah river it's branches and the position and names of the Indian nations residing thereon this the old man son executed with his finger in the dust. (see scetch inserted on the 3rd inst.). he informed that the Cush-hooks and Char-cow-ah nations who reside at the falls of that river were not numerous; but that the Cal-lah-po-e-wah nation who inhabited both sides of this river above the falls as far as it was known to himself or his nation were very numerous. that the country they inhabited was level and wholy destitute of timber. that a high range of mountains passed the Multnomah river at the falls, on the upperside of which the country was one vast plain. the nations who inhabit this country reside on the rivers and subsist like those of the Columbia on fish and roots principally. Capt C. bought five dogs of these people and set out for my camp at 5 P.M. where he arrived a little before dark, on the evening of the third.—the party whom we sent for the flesh of the Elk which Shannon had killed returned in the evening with that of four, one had by some mistake been omitted. Drewyer and shannon found the two wounded Elk and had killed them. we set all hands at work to prepare the meat for the saffoald they continued their operations untill late at night. we directed Shannon to go out early in the morning with a party to bring in the Elk which had been left last evening in mistake. we also directed Drewyer and the two Feildses to ascend the river early in the morning to a small bottom a few miles above and hunt untill our arrival.-
Sunday, April 6th, 1806. This morning, we secured the dried meat in skins and loaded the canoes. After having breakfast, we left at 9 A.M. We continued up the north side of the river, nearly reaching the spot where we had camped on November 3rd, when we crossed to the south side in search of the hunters we had sent out yesterday and the day before. From the look of a rock near our camping site on November 3rd, I could gauge the water level better than at any point downstream. I believe the spring flood has been about 12 feet higher than it was at that time; the river is about 1.5 miles wide here. Its general width from Beacon Rock, which can be considered the head of tidewater, to the marshy islands is between one and two miles, although in many spots it is even wider. It’s only in the fall when the river is low that the tides are noticeable as high as Beacon Rock. This significant rock, which stands on the north shore of the river, is detached from the hills and rises to a height of seven hundred feet. Pine or fir trees grow on its northern side, while the southern side is a sheer cliff. The rock comes to a sharp point and can be seen from 20 miles downstream. Approximately ten miles from our camp, we encountered our hunters at the upper end of the bottom where we had directed them on the south side of the river. They had killed three elk that morning and wounded two others so badly that they expected to get them. Therefore, we decided to camp for the night at this spot to dry the meat, sending a party to gather it immediately and employing others to build scaffolds and collect firewood for their return. When we arrived, we found some Indians with our hunters; these people always seem to hang around us. As previously mentioned, Captain Clark set out with a party of seven men on the 2nd to search for the entrance of the Multnomah River. He left at 11:30 A.M. and made his way along the southern side of the river. After traveling 8 miles, he passed the village of the Na-cha-co-lee tribe of the E-lute Nation. This village is small and, being situated on the main shore, opposite to and south of Diamond Island, it was hidden from view as we passed near the northern shore. Captain Clark went past this village without stopping and continued on until 3 P.M., when he arrived at a large double house of the Ne-er-cho-ki-oo tribe of the Shah'ha-la Nation. At this site, we had seen 24 additional straw and bark huts as we passed down last fall; the inhabitants of these huts, as I mentioned earlier, live at the great rapids of the Columbia River. Captain Clark noticed numerous small canoes scattered along the banks in different directions. These small canoes are used by women to collect wappatoe; a woman paddles one into a pond where Sagittaria Sagittifolia grows sometimes to her chest, and using her feet, she breaks the bulb free from the mud. It immediately floats to the surface, and she grabs it and puts it in her canoe, which she keeps close by. They can spend hours searching for these bulbs in the water, even in the middle of winter. These canoes range from 10 to 14 feet long, 18 to 23 inches wide at the middle, tapering towards both ends, and 9 inches deep. They are so light that a woman can pull them on land or easily maneuver them through swamps in any direction, and they can hold a single person plus several bushels of roots. Captain Clark's pilot told him that the small canoes he saw near this lodge belonged to the Shah-ha-las, who use them occasionally when they visit the area for root gathering. While at this location, Captain Clark entered one of the house’s rooms and offered several items to the natives in exchange for wappatoe, but they seemed in a bad mood and firmly refused to trade. Captain Clark then sat down by the fire and, having a piece of a portfire match in his pocket, he cut a small piece off and threw it in the fire. At the same time, he took out his pocket compass and quickly manipulated the needle with a magnet from his inkstand. The match ignited and burned vigorously; the Indians, astonished and alarmed by the display, rushed to bring him several parcels of wappatoe and laid them at his feet, pleading that he put out the 'bad fire.' He agreed, and at that moment, the match naturally went out, and he returned his compass and magnet to his pocket. They became much more accommodating, although the women and children were still so frightened that they took refuge in their beads and behind the men who were seated opposite Captain Clark. Throughout this comical scene, an old man sitting nearby spoke with great intensity, clearly imploring his god for protection. Captain Clark compensated them adequately for their roots and after lighting his pipe, smoked with the men. They seemed to be getting over their fear, and he left them to continue along the south side of Image Canoe Island, which he discovered to be three islands, with the central one hiding the gap between the other two in such a way that from the north side of the river, where we had previously passed, they all appeared as one island. About 13 miles below the previously mentioned village, at the lower end of what we assumed was Image Canoe Island, Captain Clark entered the Multnomah River, named by the natives after a nation of that name residing on Wappatoe Island just below the river's entrance. The Multnomah River meets the south side of the Columbia, 140 miles upstream from where the latter empties into the Pacific Ocean, and can rightfully be considered one-fourth of that great river. Captain Clark found that the Multnomah River had reached its peak annual height and had already fallen about 18 inches. It has three small islands at its mouth that obscure the river from view for those drifting down the Columbia. From the Columbia at the mouth of the Multnomah River, Mount Jefferson is seen to the southeast. This is a magnificent mountain, possibly as high as Mount St. Helens, but because it is much further away, a smaller portion of it is visible above the range of mountains lying between both great peaks and this viewing point. Like Mount St. Helens, its shape is a perfect cone and it is capped with eternal snow. Mount St. Helens is seen from the same point to the north, Mount Hood due east, and Mount Rainier nearly directly north. There is also a very high, rounded mountain slightly east of Mount St. Helens, which seems to be part of the same chain of conical mountains mentioned earlier. Soon after Captain Clark entered the Multnomah River, he was met by an old Indian man alone in a canoe traveling downstream. The pilot had a brief conversation with him and informed Captain Clark that this man belonged to the Clark-a-mas nation, which is quite numerous and inhabits eleven villages on either side of a river of the same name that originates in Mount Jefferson and flows through a wooded and fertile area before joining the Multnomah River on its eastern side, about 40 miles from where it meets the Columbia. The Clarkamas River is navigable for canoes for a long distance, according to the Indians, almost to the base of Mount Jefferson. The people along its banks primarily live off the river's abundant fish, as well as the roots they gather in the area. They also sometimes travel down to the Multnomah and Columbia in search of wappatoe. Their language and dress bear little difference from the Quathlahpohtles and others around Wappatoe Island. The current of the Multnomah River flows as gently as that of the Columbia, gliding smoothly and appearing deep enough for the largest ships. Captain Clark attempted to sound the river with a 5-fathom line, which was the longest he had, but he couldn’t find the bottom at that depth for at least a third of the river's width. Captain Clark ascended this river ten miles to a large wooden house on the east side, where he camped for the night; however, the house was infested with swarms of fleas, making it unlivable for them. His guide informed him that this was the home of the Cush-hooks nation, who live just below the falls of the Multnomah River and occasionally use this space to collect wappatoe. It appeared that the natives had recently abandoned this house, as various items such as small canoes, mats, bladders of train oil, baskets, bowls, and trenchers were left out for any visitor. This demonstrates the natives' honesty regarding each other’s property, though they have shown us evidence that they do not show the same respect for white men’s property. His guide informed him of a number of small houses belonging to the last-mentioned nation located on two bayous that branch off the river just above this large house on the east side. The inhabitants of these houses, as well as those of the large house, had gone up to the falls of the Multnomah River to fish. These falls are about a two-day journey from the confluence of the Multnomah and Columbia rivers, according to Indian accounts, which we estimate to be about 60 miles or 20 miles above the entrance of the Clarkamas River. Captain Clark measured the dimensions of the house of the Ne-mal-quin-ner tribe of the Cush-hooks nation, near which he camped on the 2nd, and found it to be precisely thirty feet by forty feet square, constructed with broad boards and covered with the bark of the white cedar or arborvitae. The floor is level with the earth, and the internal layout is similar to that of the coastal natives. These people trade with the Killamucks from the coast, crossing mountains and using the Killamucks River to travel. They obtain their train oil from the Killamucks. Captain Clark's routes and distances traveled while ascending the Multnomah River from its junction with the Columbia, starting at the lower end of Image Canoe Islands, are as follows: (viz) S. 30° W. 4 miles to the upper point of a small island in the center of the Multnomah River. Then S. 10° W. 3 miles to a channel 80 yards wide on the starboard side, which separates Wappatoe Island from the mainland and discharges into Wappatoe Inlet. Passed a willow point on the port side, S. 60° W. 3 miles to a large Indian house on the port side, just below high fir land. The shore is steep and high on the starboard side. S. 30° E. 2 miles to the center of a bend under the highlands on the starboard side, passing a port point; from here the river directed its course towards the east-southeast as far as Captain Clark could see. At this point, the Multnomah River is 500 yards wide and deep enough for the largest ships. The river seems to be eroding its banks in some areas and has more sandbars and willow points than the Columbia. On the morning of the 3rd, Captain Clark observed that the water level had fallen about 5 inches overnight. He set out early and traveled up the river a short distance, only a few miles, then attempted once more to fathom it, but with the same result as before; he couldn’t find the bottom with his 5-fathom line for half the width of the stream. After confirming the vast size of this great river, he returned at 7 A.M. I have little doubt that this river drains a vast area of land between the western mountains and the coastal mountain range extending as far south as the waters of the Gulf of California or about Latitude 37° North. At 11 A.M., Captain Clark arrived at the Ne-er-cho-ki-oo house where he had startled the inhabitants the day before. He stayed here for a few minutes to smoke with the eight families present. He found that his offerings aroused fresh alarm, especially among the women and children, who again hid behind the men, while the men looked down with concern. So, he only stayed in the house briefly, returned to his canoe, and continued on his way. His pilot then informed him that these people, as well as their relatives at the falls of the Columbia, were not well-disposed, considered bad men. Not long after he set out, he met five canoes, each occupied by a family from the Shah-ha-la nation descending the river in search of food. They were very eager to approach, but he prevented them from doing so since their numbers were too great, with 21 men aboard the canoes. His pilot warned him that they were mischievous bad men. At 3 P.M., he reached the current home of his pilot on the south side of the river, across from Diamond Island. Here, he paused for about an hour and found this house to be large, consisting of seven rooms in a row above the ground, each about 30 feet square. The entrances to these rooms were from passages extending all the way through the house, about 4 feet wide, made of boards set on end from the floor to the roof. The entryways into these wooden houses are notably small, generally no more than 3 feet high and about 22 inches wide. The layout of the Nechecolee house is thus: 1 1 1 1 with 4-foot passages and rooms sized 2 2, etc. The house is covered with white cedar bark, laid in double layers, supported by rafters and longitudinal poles tied with strips of bark. The sheets of cedar bark run the full length of the roof and extend over the edges by about 18 inches. To keep it smooth and prevent the edges from collapsing in the heat of the sun, transverse splinters of dry fir are inserted through the cedar bark every 18 inches. This way, the natives create a very secure, light, and durable roof from this bark. Near this house, Captain Clark noticed the remains of five other large houses that seemed to have been built several feet below the ground, similar to those of the Elutes Nation at the great narrows of the Columbia, with whom these people claim a connection. Their language is the same as that of the Elutes, though they differ slightly in their customs, dress, and manners from the Quathlahpohtles and others nearby. They share some common words with their neighbors, but the overall tone of their language is entirely different. They are better built, and their men are larger than those of the nations below. Their women wear longer and larger robes mainly made from deer skins dressed in hair. They show great respect for their elders. Captain Clark observed several individuals, both men and women, who seemed to have reached a great old age; yet they appeared perfectly healthy, although most were completely blind. The loss of sight is more common among all the nations inhabiting this river than among any people I’ve ever seen. They almost always have sore eyes at all stages of life. The loss of an eye is very common among them; blindness in middle-aged individuals is not uncommon either, and it usually accompanies old age. I cannot pinpoint the cause of this widespread eye issue, perhaps due to their constant exposure to the sun’s reflection on the water while fishing. Captain Clark inquired with the Nechecoles about the decline of their village. An old man, who seemed to be of some significance among them and the father of his guide, brought forth a woman who bore many marks from smallpox and indicated that the inhabitants of the houses he saw in ruin had all died from the disease that disfigured this woman’s face, which she nearly succumbed to as a girl. Given the woman's apparent age, Captain Clark estimated that this outbreak occurred roughly 28 to 30 years ago, about the time we believe it affected the Clatsops and other coastal tribes. Captain Clark persuaded this old man to share a sketch of the Multnomah River, its tributaries, and the position and names of the Indian nations living there. The old man's son then drew this in the dust with his finger. (See sketch inserted on the 3rd). He conveyed that the Cush-hooks and Char-cow-ah nations living at the falls of the river were not numerous, but the Cal-lah-po-e-wah nation, inhabiting both banks of the river above the falls, was very populous. The land they dwell on is flat and entirely treeless, with a high mountain range crossing the Multnomah River at the falls, leading to vast plains on the upstream side. The nations inhabiting this area live along the rivers and primarily sustain themselves on fish and roots, just like those of the Columbia. Captain Clark bought five dogs from these people and set out for my camp at 5 P.M., arriving just before dark on the evening of the third. The party we sent for the elk flesh that Shannon had killed returned that evening with the meat of four elk, as one had been mistakenly left behind. Drewyer and Shannon found the two wounded elk and killed them. We had everyone work to prepare the meat for the scaffolds, continuing their tasks late into the night. We instructed Shannon to head out early in the morning with a group to retrieve the elk that had been mistakenly left behind and also ordered Drewyer and the two Fields brothers to ascend the river early to a small bottom a few miles upstream and hunt until we arrived.
[Clark, April 6, 1806]
Sunday April 6th 1806. Two Indians Came last night very late to our Camp and continued all night. early we had all the meat packed up and our Canoes loaded ready for to Set out and after an early brackfast at which time all things were ready and we Set out and proceeded to the Camp of Gibson & party about 9 miles, they had killed 3 Elk at no great distance and Wounded two others so badly that we expect to precure them. Sent a party of Six men with Shannon who had killed the Elk to bring in the Elk, and formed a Camp, near which we had a Scaffold made ready to dry the meat as Soon as it Should arive. Reubin Field killed a bird of the Quail kind or Class which was whistleing near our Camp it is larger than the quail or partridge as they are Called Kentucky and Virginia. it's form is presisely that of our partridge tho its plumage differs in every part. the upper part of the head, Sides and back of the neck, including the Croop and about of the under part of the body is of a bright dove coloured blue, under neath the under beak, as high as the lower edge of the eye, and back as far as the hinder part of the eyes and thence comeing down to a point in the front of the neck about 2/3rd of it's length downwards, is of a fine dark brick red. between this brick red and the dove colour there runs a narrow Stripe of pure white. the ears are covered with some coarse dark brown feathers. just at the base of the under chap there is a narrow transvirce Stripe of white. from the crown of the head two long round feathers extend backwards nearly in the direction of the beak and are of a black Colour. the length of these feathers is 21/2 inches. one overlais and Conseals the other which is Somewhat Shorter and Seems to be raped in the plumage of that in front which folding backwards colapses behing and has a round appearance. the tail is composed of 12 dark brown feathers of nearly equal length. the large feathers of the wings are of a dark brown & are reather Short in purpotion to the body of the bird. in this respect very Similar to the partridge. the covert of the wings and back are of a dove Colour with a Slight admixture of redish brown. a wide Stripe which extends from Side to Side of the body and occupies the lower region of the breast is beautifully varigated with the brick red white & black which perdominates in the order they are mentioned and the Colours mark the feathers transversely. the legs are covered with feathers as low as the Knee; these feathers are of dark brown tiped with a dark brick red as are also those between and about the joining of the legs with the body. the foot is presisely that of the Common partridge except that they are as also the legs white. the upper beak is Short, wide at it's base, black, convex, curved downwards and reather obtusely pointed. it exceeds the under chap considerably which is of a white colour, also convex under neath and obtusely pointed. the nostrils are remarkably Small, placed far back and low down on the Sides of the beak. they are covered by a thin proterant elastic, black leather like Substance. the eyes are of a uniform pierceing black colour. this is a most butifull bird I preserved the Skin of this bird retaining the wings feet & head which I hope will give a just Idea of the bird. it's loud note is Single and Consists of a loud Squall, intirely different from the whistling of our partridge or quailes. it has a chiping note when allarmed like our partridge.—to day there was a Second of those birds killed which presisely resembles that just discribed. I believe those to be the mail bird the female, if so, I have not yet Seen.-.
Sunday, April 6th, 1806. Two Native Americans arrived very late to our camp last night and stayed the whole night. Early in the morning, we packed up all the meat and loaded our canoes, ready to set out. After a quick breakfast, everything was ready, and we headed to the camp of Gibson and his party, about 9 miles away. They had killed 3 elk nearby and wounded two others badly enough that we expected to retrieve them. I sent a team of six men with Shannon, who had killed the elk, to bring them in, and we set up a camp nearby with a scaffold prepared to dry the meat as soon as it arrived. Reubin Field shot a bird that's a type of quail, which was whistling near our camp. It’s larger than the quail or partridge found in Kentucky and Virginia. Its shape is exactly like our partridge, although its plumage is different in all respects. The top of its head, the sides and back of its neck, including the crown and the underside of the body, is a bright dove-colored blue. Underneath the beak, up to the lower edge of the eye, and extending to the back of the eyes, tapering to a point in front of the neck about two-thirds down, is a fine, dark brick red. Between this brick red and the dove color is a narrow stripe of pure white. The ears are covered with some coarse, dark brown feathers. Right at the base of the lower jaw, there’s a narrow transverse stripe of white. Two long, round feathers extend backward from the crown of the head, nearly aligned with the beak, and are black in color. These feathers are 2.5 inches long. One overlaps and conceals the other, which is slightly shorter and seems to be wrapped in the plumage of the one in front, folding back and collapsing behind, giving it a rounded appearance. The tail consists of 12 dark brown feathers of nearly equal length. The larger feathers of the wings are dark brown and relatively short compared to the bird's body, similar to a partridge. The coverts of the wings and back are dove-colored with a slight mix of reddish brown. A wide stripe running from side to side across the body occupies the lower part of the breast and is beautifully variegated with brick red, white, and black, with the colors arranged in that order transversely across the feathers. The legs are feathered down to the knee; these feathers are dark brown tipped with dark brick red, as are the ones located between and around the joints of the legs and body. The foot is exactly like that of the common partridge, except that both the feet and legs are white. The upper beak is short, wide at the base, black, convex, curved downwards, and rather bluntly pointed. It is considerably longer than the lower jaw, which is white, also convex underneath, and bluntly pointed. The nostrils are notably small, positioned far back and low on the sides of the beak, covered by a thin, protruding, elastic, black leather-like substance. The eyes are uniformly piercing black. This is a truly beautiful bird. I preserved the skin of this bird, keeping the wings, feet, and head, which I hope will provide an accurate depiction of it. Its loud call is a single, loud squall, completely different from the whistling of our partridges or quails. It makes a chirping sound when alarmed, similar to our partridge. Today, a second one of these birds was killed, which looks exactly like the one just described. I believe this is the male bird; if there is a female, I have yet to see it.
at 6 P.M. Shannon and party returned with the flesh of five Elk. the two he had wounded in the morning he found dead near the place he had Shot them. we had the meat cut into thin pices and Scaffored with a fire under it to dry out, which we expect in the course of the night Can be effected. four Indians from the great rapids visited us to day and Continued all day. they give the Same account of the Scercity of provisions above the falls as has already been given by others. This Supply of Elk I think by useing economey and in addition of roots and dogs which we may probably precure from he Nativs on Lewis's river will be Sufficient to last us to the Chopunnish where we Shall Meet with our horses-. and near which place there is Some deer to be precured.
At 6 P.M., Shannon and his group returned with the meat of five elk. He found the two he had wounded in the morning dead near where he shot them. We had the meat cut into thin pieces and set over a fire to dry out, which we expect will be done by the end of the night. Four Native Americans from the Great Rapids visited us today and stayed all day. They gave the same report about the lack of food above the falls that others have already mentioned. I believe this supply of elk, combined with some roots and dogs that we may be able to get from the Natives on Lewis's River, will be enough to last us until we reach the Chopunnish, where we will meet our horses, and near which place there are some deer we can hunt.
Frazer killed a pheasent of the Common kind. Jos. Field killed a vulture of that Speces already discribed. in the evening late the Indians left us and returned to their village. we detected that fires be kept under the meat all night. and tha Drewyer and the two Fields proceed on to the next bottom and hunt untill we Should arive. 9 miles
Frazer killed a common pheasant. Jos. Field killed a vulture of the species already described. Late in the evening, the Indians left us and returned to their village. We discovered that fires were kept under the meat all night, and that Drewyer and the two Fields moved on to the next bottom to hunt until we arrived. 9 miles
[Lewis, April 7, 1806]
Monday April 7th 1806. This morning early the flesh of the remaining Elk was brought in and Drewyer with the Feildses departed agreeably to the order of the last evening. we employed the party in drying the meat today which we completed by the evening, and we had it secured in dryed Elkskins and put on board in readiness for an early departure. we were visited today by several parties of indians from a village about 8 miles above us of the Sahhalah nation. I detected one of them in steeling a peice of lead and sent him from camp. I hope we have now a sufficient stock of dryed meat to serve us as far the Chopunnish provided we can obtain a few dogs horses and roots by the way. in the neighbourhood of the Chopunnish we can procure a few deer and perhaps a bear or two for the mountains. last evening Reubin Fields killed a bird of the quail kind it is reather larger than the quail, or partridge as they are called in Virginia. it's form is precisely that of our patridge tho it's plumage differs in every part. the upper part of the head, sides and back of the neck, including the croop and about 1/3 of the under part of the body is of a bright dove coloured blue, underneath the under beak, as high as the lower edge of the eyes, and back as far as the hinder part of the eyes and thence coming down to a point in front of the neck about two thirds of it's length downwards, is of a fine dark brick red. between this brick red and the dove colour there runs a narrow stripe of pure white. the ears are covered with some coarse stiff dark brown feathers. just at the base of the under chap there is narrow transverse stripe of white. from the crown of the head two long round feathers extend backwards nearly in the direction of the beak and are of a black colour. the longest of these feathers is two inches and an half, it overlays and conceals the other which is somewhat shorter and seems to be raped in the plumage of that in front which folding backwards colapses behind and has a round appearance. the tail is composed of twelve dark brown feathers of nearly equal length. the large feathers of the wings are of a dark brown and are reather short in proportion to the body of the bird in that rispect very similar to our common partridge. the covert of the wings and back are of a dove colour with a slight admixture of redish brown. a wide stripe which extends from side to side of the body and occupyes the lower region of the breast is beautifully variagated with the brick red white and black which pedominate in the order they are mentioned and the colours mark the feathers transversely. the legs are covered with feathers as low as the knee; these feathers are of a dark brown tiped with the dark brick red as are also those between and about the joining of the legs with the body. they have four toes on each foot of which three are in front and that in the center the longest, those one each side nearly of a length; that behing is also of good length and are all armed with long and strong nails. the legs and feet are white and imbrecated with proportionably large broad scales. the upper beak is short, wide at it's base, black, convex, curved downwards and reather obtusely pointed. it exceeds the under chap considerably which is of a white colour, also convex underneath and obtusely pointed. the nostrils are remarkably small placed far back and low down on the sides of the beak. they are covered by a thin protuberant elastic, black leatherlike substance. the eyes are of a uniform piercing black colour. this is a most beautifull bird. I preserved the skin of this bird retaining the wings feet and head which I hope will give a just idea of the bird. it's loud note is single and consists of a loud squall, intirely different from the whistling of our quales or partridge. it has a cherping note when allarmed something like ours.—today there was a second of these birds killed by Capt C. which precisely resembled that just discribed. I believe these to be the male bird the female, if so, I have not yet seen.—the day has been fair and weather extreemly pleasant. we made our men exercise themselves in shooting today and regulate their guns found several of them that had their sights moved by accedent, and others that wanted some little alterations all which were compleatly rectifyed in the course of the day. in the evening all the Indians departed for their village.
Monday, April 7, 1806. This morning, early, the remaining elk meat was brought in, and Drewyer along with the Fields brothers left as per last night's arrangements. We had the team dry the meat today, finishing it by the evening. We secured it in dried elk skins and loaded it onto the boat for an early departure. Today, we were visited by several groups of Indians from a village about 8 miles upstream of the Sahhalah nation. I caught one of them trying to steal a piece of lead and sent him away from camp. I hope we now have enough dried meat to last us until we reach the Chopunnish, provided we can obtain a few dogs, horses, and roots along the way. In the vicinity of the Chopunnish, we can find some deer and maybe a bear or two from the mountains. Last evening, Reubin Fields shot a bird similar to a quail; it’s somewhat larger than the quail or partridge that they call in Virginia. Its shape is exactly like our partridge, although its plumage has distinct differences. The top of the head, sides and back of the neck, including the rump and about a third of the underside, is a bright dove-colored blue. Underneath the lower beak, extending upwards to the lower edge of the eyes and back to the rear part of the eyes, tapering down to a point in the front of the neck about two-thirds down, is a fine dark brick red. Between this brick red and the dove color runs a narrow strip of pure white. The ears are covered with some coarse, stiff dark brown feathers. Just at the base of the lower jaw, there’s a narrow horizontal white stripe. From the crown of its head, two long round feathers extend backward nearly toward the beak and are black. The longest of these feathers is two and a half inches long, overlapping and hiding the slightly shorter one, which seems wrapped in the plumage of the one in front, folding backward to create a rounded appearance. The tail consists of twelve dark brown feathers of nearly equal length. The large flight feathers of the wings are dark brown and are relatively short compared to the bird's body, much like our common partridge. The covert feathers of the wings and back are dove-colored with a slight mix of reddish brown. A wide stripe that runs from side to side across the body occupies the lower part of the breast and is beautifully patterned with brick red, white, and black, which predominate in that order, marking the feathers transversely. The legs are feathered down to the knee; these feathers are dark brown tipped with dark brick red, as are those between and around the points where the legs meet the body. The bird has four toes on each foot, three of which are in front, with the central toe being the longest, while the two side toes are nearly the same length. The toe at the back is also long, with all toes equipped with strong, long nails. The legs and feet are white and covered with proportionately large, broad scales. The upper beak is short, wide at the base, black, convex, curved downwards, and somewhat blunt at the tip. It significantly exceeds the lower jaw, which is white, also convex underneath and blunt-pointed. The nostrils are strikingly small, positioned far back and low on the sides of the beak, covered by a thin, protrusive, elastic, black, leather-like substance. The eyes are uniformly piercing black. This is a truly beautiful bird. I preserved the skin of this bird, keeping the wings, feet, and head intact, hoping to provide a clear representation of it. Its loud call is singular and consists of a loud squawk, entirely different from the whistles of our quails or partridges. It makes a chirping noise when alarmed, somewhat like ours. Today, another one of these birds was killed by Capt C., which looked exactly like the one I just described. I believe these are the male birds; as for the females, I have not seen any yet. The day has been fair, and the weather extremely pleasant. We had our men practice shooting today and check their guns, discovering several that had accidentally adjusted sights and others needing minor fixes, all of which were completely rectified throughout the day. By evening, all the Indians had left for their village.
[Clark, April 7, 1806]
Monday April 7th 1806 This morning Drewyer & the two Fields Set out agreeably to their orders of last evening, the remainder of the party employed in drying the flesh of the five Elk killed by Shannon yesterday. which was completed and we had it Secured in dried Shaved Elk Skins and put on board in readiness for our early departure. we were visited by Several parties of Indians from a Village about 12 miles above us of the Sahhalah nation. one of them was detected in Stealing a piece of Lead. I Sent him off imedeately. I hope now we have a Sufficient Stock of dryed meat to Serve us as far as the Chopunnish provided we can obtain a fiew dogs, horses and roots by the way. in the neighbourhood of the Chopunnish under the Rocky Mountains we can precure a fiew deer, and perhaps a Bear or two for the Mountains.
Monday, April 7th, 1806. This morning, Drewyer and the two Fields set out as per their orders from last night, while the rest of the group worked on drying the meat from the five elk that Shannon killed yesterday. We finished that and secured it in dried, shaved elk skins, getting it ready for our early departure. Several groups of Indians from a village about 12 miles upstream from the Sahhalah nation visited us. One of them was caught stealing a piece of lead, and I sent him off immediately. I hope we now have enough dried meat to last us as far as the Chopunnish, provided we can pick up a few dogs, horses, and roots along the way. In the area near the Chopunnish under the Rocky Mountains, we can get a few deer, and maybe a bear or two from the mountains.
The day has been fair and weather exceedingly pleasent. we made our men exersise themselves in Shooting and regulateing their guns, found Several of them that had their Sights moved by accident, and others that wanted Some little alterations all which were compleated rectified in the Course of the day except my Small rifle, which I found wanted Cutting out. about 4 oClock P M all the Indians left us, and returned to their Village. they had brought with them Wappato, & pashequa roots Chapellel cakes, and a Species of Raspberry for Sale, none of which they disposed of as they asked Such enormous prices for those articles that we were not able to purchase any. Drewyer returned down the river in the evening & informed us that the nativs had Sceared all the Elk from the river above. Joseph & reuben Fields had proceeded on further up the river in the canoe, he expected to the village.
The day was nice and the weather very pleasant. We had our men practice shooting and adjusting their guns. We found several that had their sights accidentally moved and others that needed some minor adjustments. All of these were fixed throughout the day, except for my small rifle, which I realized needed some cutting. Around 4 o'clock in the afternoon, all the Indians left us and returned to their village. They had brought along wappato and pashequa roots, chapellel cakes, and a type of raspberry for sale, but they didn’t sell any because they were asking such outrageous prices. Drewyer came back down the river in the evening and told us that the natives had scared all the elk away from the river upstream. Joseph and Reuben Fields had continued further up the river in the canoe, expecting to reach the village.
I provaled on an old indian to mark the Multnomah R down on the Sand which hid and perfectly Corisponded with the Sketch given me by sundary others, with the addition of a circular mountain which passes this river at the falls and connects with the mountains of the Seacoast. he also lais down the Clark a mos passing a high Conical Mountain near it's mouth on the lower Side and heads in Mount Jefferson which he lais down by raiseing the Sand as a very high mountain and Covered with eternal Snow. the high mountain which this Indian lais down near the enterance of Clark a mos river, we have not Seen as the hills in it's diretion from this vally is high and obscures the Sight of it from us. Mt Jefferson we Can plainly See from the enterance of Multnomah from which place it bears S. E. this is a noble Mountain and I think equally as high or Something higher than Mt. St. Heleansa but its distance being much greater than that of the latter, So great a portion of it does not appear above the range of mountains which lie between both those Stupendious Mountains and the Mouth of Multnomah. like Mt. St. Heleans its figure is a regular Cone and is covered with eturnial Snow. that the Clarkamos nation as also those at the falls of the Multnomah live principally on fish of which those Streams abound and also on roots which they precure on it's borders, they also Sometimes Come down to the Columbia in Serch of Wappato. they build their houses in the Same form with those of the Columbian Vally of wide Split boads and Covered with bark of the White Cedar which is the entire length of the one Side of the roof and jut over at the eve about 18 inches. at the distance of about 18 inches transvers Spinters of dried pine is inserted through the Ceder bark inorder to keep it Smooth and prevent it's edge from Colapsing by the heat of the Sun; in this manner the nativs make a very Secure light and lasting roof of this bark. which we have observed in every Vilege in this Vally as well as those above. this Indian also informed me the multnomah above the falls was Crouded with rapids and thickly inhabited by indians of the Callah-po-e-wah Nation. he informed he had himself been a long way up that river &c.
I consulted an old Indian to locate the Multnomah River on the map, which matched perfectly with the sketch I had received from various other sources. He also noted a circular mountain that spans this river at the falls and connects with the coastal mountains. He marked the Clackamas River, which flows near a tall conical mountain at its mouth, and originates in Mount Jefferson, which he described as a very tall mountain covered in eternal snow. The high mountain this Indian mentioned near the entrance of the Clackamas, we have not seen because the hills in its direction from this valley are high and block our view. We can see Mount Jefferson clearly from the entrance of the Multnomah, from which point it lies to the southeast. This is an impressive mountain, and I think it’s about as high, if not slightly higher, than Mount St. Helens. However, because it’s much farther away, much of it doesn't rise above the range of mountains between these two magnificent peaks and the mouth of the Multnomah. Like Mount St. Helens, its shape is that of a perfect cone and is covered in eternal snow. The Clackamas people, as well as those at the Multnomah falls, primarily rely on the fish abundant in those streams and also gather roots from its banks. They sometimes travel down to the Columbia in search of wapato. They build their houses similarly to those in the Columbia Valley, using wide split boards covered with white cedar bark that extends the full length of one side of the roof and overhangs about 18 inches at the eaves. About 18 inches apart, they insert pieces of dried pine across the cedar bark to keep it smooth and prevent the edges from collapsing under the sun's heat; this way, the natives create a very secure, light, and durable roof with this bark, which we've seen in every village in this valley as well as those upriver. This Indian also told me that the Multnomah above the falls is filled with rapids and is densely populated by the Callahpoewah people. He mentioned that he himself had traveled far up that river, etc.
[Lewis, April 8, 1806]
Tuesday April 8th 1806. The wind blew so violently this morning that we were obliged to unlode our perogues and canoes, soon after which they filled with water. being compelled to remain during the day at our present station we sent out some hunters in order to add something to our stock of provision; and exposed our dryed meat to the sun and the smoke of small fires. in the evening the hunters returned having killed a duck only; they saw two bear and some of the blacktailed jumping or fallow deer, such as are found about Fort Clatsop; this kind of deer are scarce in this neighbourhood, the common longtailed fallow deer being most abundant. we have seen the black bear only in this quarter. the wind continued without intermission to blow violently all day. I took a walk today of three miles down the river; in the course of which I had an opportunity to correct an errow which I have heretofore made with rispect to the shrub I have hithertoo called the large leafed thorn. the leaf of this thorn is small being only abut 21/2 inches long, is petiolate, conjugate; the leafets are petiolate accutely pointed, having their margins cut with unequal angular insissures. the shrub which I have heretofore confounded with this grows in similar situations, has a stem precisely like it except the thorn and bears a large three loabed leaf. this bryer is of the class Polyandria and order Polygynia. the flowers are single, the peduncle long and celindric. the calix is a perianth, of one leaf, five cleft, & accutely pointed. the perianth is proper, erect, inferior with rispect to both petals and germen, and equal. the corolla consists of five accute pale scarlet petals, insirted in the recepticle with a short and narrow claw. the Corolla is smooth, moderately long, situated at the base of the germen, permanent, and cup shaped. of the stamens the filaments are subulate, inserted into the recepticle, unequal and bent inwards concealing the pistillum; anther two loabed and inflected situated on the top of the fillaments of the pistillum the germ is conical, imbricated, superior, sessile and short. the styles are short with rispect to the stamen, capillary smooth, obtuse, distributed over the serface of the germ and decid-uous. no perseptable stigma.—late at night the centinel detected an old indian man in attempting to creep into camp in order to pilfer; he allarmed the indian very much by presenting his gun at him; he gave the fellow a few stripes with a switch and sent him off. this fellow is one of a party of six who layed incamped a few hundred yards below us, they departed soon after this occurrence.
Tuesday, April 8th, 1806. The wind blew so fiercely this morning that we had to unload our boats and canoes, shortly after which they filled with water. Forced to stay at our current location for the day, we sent out some hunters to try to add to our food supply and set out our dried meat to dry in the sun and smoke from small fires. In the evening, the hunters came back having only killed a duck; they spotted two bears and some of the black-tailed deer, similar to those found around Fort Clatsop; this type of deer is rare in this area, as the common long-tailed deer are more plentiful. We've only seen the black bear around here. The wind continued to blow hard all day without stopping. I took a three-mile walk down the river today, during which I had a chance to correct an error I made earlier regarding the shrub I previously called the large-leafed thorn. The leaves of this thorn are actually small, about 2.5 inches long, petiolate, and paired; the leaflets are petiolate, sharply pointed, with edges irregularly notched. The shrub I previously confused with this one grows in similar areas, has a stem exactly like this one except for the thorn, and features a large, three-lobed leaf. This briar belongs to the class Polyandria and order Polygynia. The flowers are single, with a long, cylindrical stem. The calyx is a single leaf perianth, five cleft and sharply pointed. The perianth is upright, inferior regarding both petals and germ, and equal. The corolla has five sharp, pale scarlet petals, inserted into the receptacle with a short, narrow claw. The corolla is smooth, moderately long, located at the base of the germ, permanent, and cup-shaped. In terms of stamens, the filaments are slender, inserted into the receptacle, unequal, and bent inward, concealing the pistil; the anther is two-lobed and curved, located on top of the filaments of the pistil. The germ is cone-shaped, imbricated, superior, sessile, and short. The styles are short compared to the stamens, smooth, tapers at the end, spread across the surface of the germ, and fall off. No noticeable stigma. Late at night, the sentinel noticed an old Indian man trying to sneak into our camp to steal; he startled the Indian by pointing his gun at him. He gave the man a few swats with a switch and sent him off. This man was part of a group of six who camped a few hundred yards below us, and they left shortly after this incident.
[Clark, April 8, 1806]
Tuesday April 8th 1806 This morning about day light I heard a Considerable roreing like wind at a distance and in the Course of a Short time ways rose very high which appeared to come across the river and in the Course of an hour became So high that we were obliged to unload the canoes, at 7 oClock A.M. the winds Suelded and blew So hard and raised the Waves So emensely high from the N. E and tossed our Canoes against the Shore in Such a manner as to render it necessary to haul them up on the bank. finding from the appearance of the winds that it is probable that we may be detained all day, we Sent out Drewyer, Shannon Colter & Collins to hunt with derections to return if the Wind Should lul, if not to Continue the hunt all day except they killed Elk or bear Sooner &c. we had the dried meat which was cured at our last encampment below exposed to the Sun. John Shields Cut out my Small rifle & brought hir to Shoot very well. the party ows much to the injenuity of this man, by whome their guns are repared when they get out of order which is very often.
Tuesday, April 8th, 1806 This morning, around dawn, I heard a loud roaring like wind in the distance. After a short while, the waves rose very high, seeming to come across the river, and within an hour, they got so high that we had to unload the canoes. At 7 o'clock A.M., the winds shifted and blew so hard that the waves became extremely high from the northeast, tossing our canoes against the shore. It became necessary to haul them up on the bank. Seeing the conditions of the wind, it seemed likely that we would be stuck here all day, so we sent out Drewyer, Shannon, Colter, and Collins to hunt, instructing them to return if the wind calmed down, but to continue hunting all day unless they killed an elk or bear sooner, etc. We laid out the dried meat that we had cured at our last camp below to dry in the sun. John Shields worked on my small rifle and got it to shoot very well. The group owes a lot to this man's ingenuity, as he repairs their guns whenever they break down, which happens quite often.
I observed an Indian Woman who visited us yesterday blind of an eye, and a man who was nearly blind of both eyes. the loss of Sight I have observed to be more Common among all the nations inhabiting this river than among any people I ever observed. they have almost invariably Sore eyes at all Stages of life. the loss of an eye is very Common among them; blindness in persons of middle age is by no means uncommon, and it is almost invariably a concammitant of old age. I Know not to what cause to attribute this prevalent deficientcy of the eye except it be their exposure to the reflection of the Sun on the water to which they are constantly exposed in the Occupation of fishing. about 1 P M Collins Shannon and Colter returned. Collins Saw 2 bear but could not get a Shot at them. neither Shannon nor Colter Saw any thing worth Shooting. Soon after Drewyer returned haveing only a Summer Duck. the Elk is gorn to the mountains as the hunters Suppose. in the evening late an old man his Son & Grand Son and their Wives &c. Came down dureing the time the waves raged with great fury. the wife of the Grand Son is a woman of differant appearance from any we have Seen on this river, she has a very round head and pierceing black eyes. Soon after those people arived the Old man was detected in Stealing a Spoon and he was ordered away, at about 200 yards below our Camp they built themselves a fire and did not return to our fires after-. The Wind Continued violently hard all day, and threw our Canoes with Such force against the Shore that one of them Split before we Could get it out.
I saw an Indian woman who visited us yesterday, blind in one eye, and a man who was almost completely blind. I’ve noticed that vision loss is more common among all the nations living along this river than among any people I've encountered. They often have sore eyes at all stages of life. It's pretty common for them to lose an eye; blindness in middle-aged people isn’t unusual, and it always seems to accompany old age. I can’t say what causes this widespread eye deficiency, except that it might be due to their exposure to the sun’s reflection on the water since they spend so much time fishing. Around 1 PM, Collins, Shannon, and Colter returned. Collins saw two bears but couldn’t get a shot at them. Neither Shannon nor Colter saw anything worth shooting. Shortly after, Drewyer came back with only a summer duck. The elk have supposedly gone to the mountains, according to the hunters. Later that evening, an old man, his son, grandson, and their wives came down while the waves were raging fiercely. The grandson's wife looks very different from anyone else we've seen on this river; she has a very round head and piercing black eyes. Soon after they arrived, the old man was caught stealing a spoon and was asked to leave. About 200 yards below our camp, they built a fire and didn’t come back to our fire after that. The wind was violently strong all day, and it pushed our canoes against the shore with such force that one of them split before we could get it out.
[Lewis, April 9, 1806]
Wednesday April 9th 1806. This morning early we commenced the operation of reloading our canoes; at 7 A.M. we departed and proceeded on to the Camp of Reubin and Joseph Fields they had not killed any game; we made no halt at this place but continued our rout to the Wah-clel-lah Village which is situated on the North side of the river about a mile below the beacon rock; here we halted and took breakfast. John Colter one of our party observed the tomehawk in one of the lodges which had been stolen from us on the 4th of November last as we decended this river; the natives attempted to wrest the tomahawk from him but he retained it. they indeavoured afterwards to exculpate themselves from the odium of having stolen it, they alledged that they had bought it from the natives below; but their neighbours had several days previously, informed us that these people had stolen the Tommehawk and then had it at their village. this village appears to be the winter station of the Wah-clel-lahs and Clahclellars, the greater part of the former have lately removed to the falls of the Multnomah, and the latter have established themselves a few miles above on the North side of the river opposite the lower point of brant island, being the commencement of the rapids, here they also take their salmon; they are now in the act of removing, and not only take with them their furniture and effects but also the bark and most of the boards which formed their houses. 14 houses remain entire but are at this time but thinly inhabited, nine others appear to have been lately removed, and the traces of ten or twelve others of ancient date were to be seen in the rear of their present village. they sometimes sink their houses in the earth, and at other times have their floors level with the surface of the earth; they are generally built with boards and covered with Cedar bark. most of them have a devision in their houses near the entrance wich is at the end or in the event of it's bing a double house is from the center of a narrow passage. several families inhabit one appartment. the women of these people pierce the cartelage of the nose in which they wear various ornaments in other rispects they do not differ from those in the neighbourhood of the Diamond island; tho most of the women brad their hair which hanges in two tresses one hanging over each ear. these people were very unfriendly, and seemed illy disposed had our numbers not detered them any acts of violence. with some difficuly we obtained five dogs from them and a few wappetoe. on our way to this village we passed several beautifull cascades which fell from a great hight over the stupendious rocks which cloles the river on both sides nearly, except a small bottom on the South side in which our hunters were encamped. the most remarkable of these casscades falls about 300 feet perpendicularly over a solid rock into a narrow bottom of the river on the south side. it is a large creek, situated about 5 miles above our encampment of the last evening. several small streams fall from a much greater hight, and in their decent become a perfect mist which collecting on the rocks below again become visible and decend a second time in the same manner before they reach the base of the rocks. the hills have now become mountains high on each side are rocky steep and covered generally with fir and white cedar. we saw some turkey buzzards this morning of the speceis common to the United states which are the first we have seen on this side the rocky mountains. during our halt at this village the grand Cheif and two inferior Cheifs of the Chil-luck-kit-to-quaw nation arrived with several men and women of their nation in two large canoes. these people were on their return up the river, having been on a trading voyage to the Columbean vally, and were loaded with wappetoe dryed anchovies, with some beads &c which they had received in exchange for dryed and pounded salmon shappelell beargrass &c. These people had been very kind to us as we decended the river we therefore smoked with them and treated them with every attention. at 2 P.M. we renewed our voyage; passed under the beacon rock on the north side, to the left of two small islands situated near the shore. at four P.M. we arrived at the Clah-clel-lah village; here we found the natives busily engaged in erecting their new habitations, which appear to be reather of a temperary kind; it is most probable that they only reside here during the salmon season. we purchased two dogs of these people who like those of the village blow were but sulky and illy disposed; they are great rogues and we are obliged to keep them at a proper distance from our bag-gage. as we could not ascend the rapid by the North side of the river with our large canoes, we passed to the oposite side and entered the narrow channel which seperates brant Island from the South shore; the evening being far spent and the wind high raining and very cold we thought best not to attempt the rapids this evening, we therefore sought a safe harbour in this narrow channel and encamped on the main shore. our small canoe with Drewer and the two feildses was unable to pass the river with us in consequence of the waves they therefore toed her up along the N. side of the river and encamped opposite the upper point of brant Island. after halting this evening I took a turn with my gun in order to kill a deer, but was unsuccessfull. I saw much fresh sign. the fir has been lately injured by a fire near this place and many of them have discharged considerable quantities of rozin. we directed that Collins should hunt a few hours tomorrow morning and that Gibson and his crew should remain at his place untill we returned and employ themselves in collectng rozin which our canoes are now in want of.
Wednesday, April 9th, 1806. This morning, we started reloading our canoes early. At 7 A.M., we left and made our way to the Camp of Reubin and Joseph Fields, who hadn't killed any game. We didn't stop there but continued to the Wah-clel-lah Village, located on the north side of the river about a mile below Beacon Rock. We paused here for breakfast. John Colter, one of our group, noticed a tomahawk in one of the lodges that had been stolen from us on November 4th as we descended the river. The locals tried to take the tomahawk from him, but he held on to it. They later tried to defend themselves against the accusation of stealing it, claiming they had purchased it from natives further downriver. However, their neighbors had informed us days earlier that this group had stolen the tomahawk and brought it to their village. This village seems to be the winter home of the Wah-clel-lahs and Clahclellars. Most of the Wah-clel-lahs have recently moved to the falls of the Multnomah, while the Clahclellars have settled a few miles upstream on the north side of the river, opposite the lower point of Brant Island, where the rapids begin. Here they also catch their salmon. They are in the process of moving and are taking not only their furniture and belongings but also the bark and most of the boards from their houses. Fourteen houses remain intact but are currently sparsely inhabited, while nine others seem to have been recently removed, and the remnants of ten or twelve older houses can be seen behind their current village. They sometimes dig their houses into the ground or have floors at ground level. Most homes are built with boards and covered with cedar bark. Many have a division near the entrance, which is at one end or, in the case of double houses, comes from the center of a narrow passage. Several families share one apartment. The women here pierce the cartilage of their noses, wearing various ornaments; otherwise, they do not differ from those in the area around Diamond Island. Most women braid their hair, which hangs in two tresses, one over each ear. These people were very unfriendly and seemed to harbor ill will, and if it weren't for our numbers, they might have acted violently. With some difficulty, we managed to get five dogs from them and a few wappetoe. On our way to this village, we passed several beautiful waterfalls cascading down from great heights over the impressive rocks that nearly line the river, apart from a small flat area on the south side where our hunters were camped. The most notable waterfall drops about 300 feet straight down over solid rock into a narrow part of the river on the south side. It's a large creek located about five miles above our last campsite. Several smaller streams fall from even greater heights, becoming a perfect mist as they descend, then reappear on the rocks below before falling again in the same manner until they reach the base of the cliffs. The hills have now turned into tall mountains on either side, steep and rocky, generally covered with fir and white cedar. This morning, we saw some turkey vultures common to the United States, the first we've encountered on this side of the Rocky Mountains. During our stop at this village, the grand chief and two lower chiefs of the Chil-luck-kit-to-quaw nation arrived with several men and women from their group in two large canoes. They were returning upstream after a trading trip to the Columbia Valley, carrying wappetoe, dried anchovies, beads, etc., that they had exchanged for dried and crushed salmon, shappelle beargrass, and other items. These people had been very kind to us as we descended the river, so we shared some tobacco with them and treated them with every courtesy. At 2 P.M., we resumed our journey, passing under Beacon Rock on the north side, to the left of two small islands near the shore. By 4 P.M., we reached the Clah-clel-lah village, where we found the natives actively setting up their new homes, which seemed rather temporary; they likely only stay here during the salmon season. We bought two dogs from them, who, like those from the previous village, were sulky and uncooperative; they are quite mischievous, and we have to keep them at a safe distance from our supplies. Since we couldn't navigate the rapids on the north side of the river with our large canoes, we crossed to the other side and entered the narrow channel between Brant Island and the south shore. As the evening progressed and the wind picked up, bringing rain and cold, we decided it was best not to tackle the rapids tonight. Instead, we sought shelter in this narrow channel and camped on the main shore. Our small canoe with Drewer and the two Fields brothers couldn’t cross the river with us due to the waves, so they tied it up along the north side of the river and camped opposite the upper end of Brant Island. After stopping for the evening, I took a walk with my gun to try to hunt a deer but was unsuccessful. I saw lots of fresh signs. The fir trees nearby have been damaged by a fire, and many have released significant amounts of resin. We instructed Collins to hunt for a few hours tomorrow morning, while Gibson and his crew should stay behind and gather resin, which our canoes currently need.
[Clark, April 9, 1806]
Wednesday April 9th 1806 last night at a late hour the old amsiated Indian who was detected in Stealing a Spoon yesterday, Crept upon his belley with his hands and feet, with a view as I Suppose to take Some of our baggage which was in Several defferent parcels on the bank. the Sentinal observed the motions of this old amcinated retch untill he got with a fiew feet of the baggage at he hailed him and approached with his gun in a possion as if going to Shoote which allarmed the old retch in Such a manner that he ran with all his power tumbleing over brush and every thing in his way. at 7 A.M. we Set out and proceeded on to the Camp of Joseph & Reubin Fields. they had killed nothing. here we did not delay but proceeded on to Wah-clel-lah Village on the North Side and brackfast here one the men Colter observed the Tomahawk which was Stolen from on the 4th of Novr. last as we decended the Columbia, he took the tomahawk the natives attempted to wrest it from him, he held fast the Tomahawk. Those people attempted to excuse themselves from odium of Stealing it, by makeing Signs that they had purchased the Tomahawk, but their nighbours informed me otherwise and made Signs that they had taken it. This Village appears to be the wintering Station of two bands of the Shah-ha-la Nation. One band has already moved the Falls of the Multnomah which is the place they take their Salmon. The other band is now moveing a fiew miles above to the foot of the first rapid on this river, at which place they take their Salmon. 14 houses only appear occupied and the inhabitants of those moveing off hourly, they take with them in their Canoes independent of all their houshold effects the bark of their houses, and boards. 9 houses has been latterly abandened and 14 others is yet is thinly inhabited at present, and the remains of 10 or 12 others are to be Seen and appears to have been enhabited last fall. those people were not hospital and with Some dificuelty we precured 5 dogs and a fiew Wappato of them. Soon after we arived at this Village the Grand Cheif and two others of the Chee-luck-kit-le-quaw Nation arived from below. they had with them 11 men and 7 womin and had been trading in the Columbia Vally for Wappato, beeds and dried Anchovies &c in exchange for which they had given pounded fish Shappalell, bear grass, acorns boiled berries &c. &c. and are now on their return to their village. as those people had been very Kind to us as we decended the river we gave them Smoke. at 2 oClock P. M we Set out and passed under the Beacon rock on the North Side of two Small Islds. Situated nearest the N. side. at 4 P.M. we arived at the first rapid at the head of Straw berry island at which place on the N W. Side of the Columbia here we found the nativs from the last village rebuilding their habitations of the bark of their old Village 16 Huts are already Compleated and appear only temporrary it is most probable that they only reside here dureing the Season of the Salmon. as we Could not pass with the large Canoes up the N. W. Side for the rocks, the wind high and a rainey disagreeable evining. our Smallest Canoe being too low to cross through the high waves, we Sent her up on the N W. Side with Drewyer and the two Fields and after purchaseing 2 dogs Crossed and into the Sluce of a large high Island seperated from the S. E Side by a narrow chanel, in this chanel we found a good harbor and encamped on the lower Side. We Saw Some deer Sign and Collins to hunt in the mornig untill the Canoes were toed above the rapids. made 16 Miles to day. evening wet & disagreeable.
Wednesday, April 9th, 1806. Last night, late, the old, emaciated Indian who was caught stealing a spoon yesterday crawled on his belly with his hands and feet, probably trying to take some of our baggage, which was in several different bundles on the bank. The sentinel noticed the movements of this old emaciated wretch until he got a few feet from the baggage, at which point he called out to him and approached with his gun aimed as if he was going to shoot, which alarmed the old wretch so much that he ran away, tumbling over brush and everything in his path. At 7 A.M., we set out and headed to the camp of Joseph and Reubin Fields. They hadn’t killed anything. Here we didn’t linger but moved on to Wah-clel-lah Village on the north side and had breakfast. One of the men, Colter, spotted the tomahawk that was stolen on November 4th of last year as we descended the Columbia. He took the tomahawk; the natives tried to wrest it from him, but he held on tight. These people attempted to clear themselves of the blame for stealing it by signaling that they had purchased it, but their neighbors informed me otherwise and indicated that they had taken it. This village seems to be the winter station for two bands of the Shah-ha-la Nation. One band has already moved to the Falls of the Multnomah, where they catch their salmon. The other band is now moving a few miles upstream to the foot of the first rapid on this river, where they also catch their salmon. Only 14 houses seem occupied, and the inhabitants of those are moving out hourly; they carry with them in their canoes, aside from all their household belongings, the bark of their houses and boards. Nine houses have recently been abandoned, and 14 others are thinly inhabited at the moment, and the remains of 10 or 12 others can be seen that appear to have been occupied last fall. These people were not hospitable, and with some difficulty, we procured five dogs and a little wappato from them. Soon after we arrived at this village, the grand chief and two others from the Chee-luck-kit-le-quaw Nation came from below. They had with them 11 men and 7 women and had been trading in the Columbia Valley for wappato, beads, and dried anchovies, for which they had exchanged pounded fish, shappalell, bear grass, acorns, boiled berries, etc. and were now on their way back to their village. Since these people had been very kind to us while we descended the river, we gave them some tobacco. At 2 o'clock P.M., we set out and passed under Beacon Rock on the north side of two small islands situated nearest the north side. At 4 P.M., we reached the first rapid at the head of Strawberry Island, where we found the natives from the last village rebuilding their homes using the bark from their old village. Sixteen huts have already been completed and appear to be only temporary; it is likely that they only stay here during the salmon season. Since we couldn’t pass with the large canoes up the northwest side because of the rocks, with high winds and a rainy, unpleasant evening, our smallest canoe was too low to cross through the large waves. We sent it up the northwest side with Drewyer and the two Fields and, after purchasing two dogs, crossed into the sluice of a large high island separated from the southeast side by a narrow channel. In this channel, we found a good harbor and set up camp on the lower side. We saw some deer signs, and Collins planned to hunt in the morning until the canoes were towed above the rapids. We made 16 miles today. The evening was wet and unpleasant.
[Lewis, April 10, 1806]
Thursday April 10th 1806. We set out early and droped down the channel to the lower end of brant Island from whence we drew them up the rapid by a cord about a quarter of a mile which we soon performed; Collins and Gibson not having yet come over we directed Sergt. Pryor to remain with the cord on the Island untill Gibson arrived and assist him with his crew in geting his canoe up the rapid, when they were to join us on the oposite side at a small village of six houses of the Clah-clah'lahs where we halted for breakfast. in passing the river which is here about 400 yds. wide the rapidity of the currant was such that it boar us down a considerable distance notwithstanding we employed five oars. on entering one of these lodges, the natives offered us a sheepskin for sail, than which nothing could have been more acceptable except the animal itself. the skin of the head of the sheep with the horns remaining was cased in such manner as to fit the head of a man by whom it was woarn and highly prized as an ornament. we obtained this cap in exchange for a knife, and were compelled to give two Elkskins in exchange for the skin. this appeared to be the skin of a sheep not fully grown; the horns were about four inches long, celindric, smooth, black, erect and pointed; they rise from the middle of the forehead a little above the eyes. they offered us a second skin of a full grown sheep which was quite as large as that of a common deer. they discovered our anxity to purchase and in order to extort a great plrice declared that they prized it too much to dispose of it. in expectation of finding some others of a similar kind for sale among the natives of this neighbourhood I would not offer him a greater price than had been given for the other which he refused. these people informed us that these sheep were found in great abundance on the hights and among the clifts of the adjacent mountains. and that they had lately killed these two from a herd of 36, at no great distance from their village. we could obtain no provision from those people except four white salmon trout. at ten oclock Sergt. Pryor and Gibson joined us with Collins who had killed 3 deer. these were all of the blacktailed fallow kind. we set out and continued our rout up the N. side of the river with great difficulty in consequence of the rapidity of the current and the large rocks which form this shore; the South side of the river is impassable. as we had but one sufficient toerope and were obliged to employ the cord in geting on our canoes the greater part of the way we could only take them one at a time which retarded our progress very much. by evening we arrived at the portage on the North side where we landed and conveyed our bagage to the top of the hill about 200 paces distant where we formed a camp. we had the canoes drawn on shore and secured. the small canoe got loose from the hunters and went a drift with a tin vessel and tommahawk in her; the Indians caught her at the last village and brought her up to us this evening for which service we gave them a couple of knives; the canoe overset and lost the articles which were in her.—Saw the white pine at this place.
Thursday, April 10th, 1806. We set out early and moved down the channel to the lower end of Brant Island from where we pulled them up the rapid with a rope for about a quarter of a mile, which we completed quickly. Since Collins and Gibson hadn’t arrived yet, we instructed Sergeant Pryor to stay with the rope on the island until Gibson showed up and could help him and his crew get their canoe up the rapid. They were to meet us on the opposite side at a small village of six houses belonging to the Clah-clah'lahs, where we stopped for breakfast. While crossing the river, which is about 400 yards wide here, the current was so strong that it carried us downstream quite a bit, even though we used five oars. When we entered one of the lodges, the locals offered us a sheepskin for a sail, which was more than welcome, almost as much as the sheep itself. The skin of the sheep's head, complete with the horns, was fashioned to fit the head of a man who wore it and was highly valued as a decorative piece. We traded a knife for this cap but had to give up two elk skins to get the skin. It seemed to be from a sheep that wasn’t fully grown; the horns were about four inches long, cylindrical, smooth, black, standing upright and pointed; they arose from the middle of the forehead just above the eyes. They offered us a second skin from a fully grown sheep, which was roughly the size of that of a common deer. Sensing our eagerness to buy, they claimed they valued it too much to sell it, hoping to drive the price up. Since I anticipated finding more similar items among the local people, I didn't offer him a higher price than what we had already agreed on for the other skin, which he declined. These folks told us that these sheep were abundant on the heights and cliffs of the nearby mountains and that they had recently killed these two from a herd of 36 not far from their village. We weren’t able to get any provisions from them except for four white salmon trout. At ten o’clock, Sergeant Pryor and Gibson joined us with Collins, who had hunted three deer, all of the black-tailed fallow type. We set out and continued our route up the north side of the river, facing significant difficulties due to the fast current and the large rocks along the shore; the south side of the river was impassable. Since we only had one strong rope and needed to use it to move our canoes, we could only transport them one at a time, which greatly slowed our progress. By evening, we reached the portage on the north side where we landed and carried our baggage to the top of the hill, about 200 paces away, where we set up camp. We pulled the canoes onto the shore and secured them. The small canoe got away from the hunters and drifted off with a tin vessel and tomahawk inside; the Indians caught it at the last village and brought it back to us this evening, for which we gave them a couple of knives. Unfortunately, the canoe capsized and lost the items inside. We saw white pine at this location.
[Clark, April 10, 1806]
Thursday April 10th 1806 Collins went out in the bottom to hunt agreeable to the order of last evening, and gibsons Crew was derected to delay for Collins dureing which time they were derected to Collect rozin from the pines in the bottom near our Camp at 6 A M. we Set out and proceeded to the lower point of the Island from whence we were Compelled to draw our Canoes up a rapid for about 1/4 mile which we Soon performed. Collins & gibson haveing not yet Come over we derected Serjt. Pryor to delay on the Island untill Gibson Came over & assist him with the large toe roap which we also left and to join us at a village of four houses of the Clah-lah-lar Tribe which is opposit to this Island on North Side at which place we intened to brackfast. in crossing the River which at this place is not more than 400 yards wide we fell down a great distance owing to the rapidity of the Current. I entered one of the houses of those people and was Scercely Seated before they offered me a Sheep Skin for Sale nothing could be more acceptable except the Animal itself in examoning this Skin I found it was a young one, the Skin of the head was Cased So as to fit the head of a man and was esteemed as a great orniment and highly prised by them. we precured this Cased head for a knife and, the Skin we were obliged to give two Raw Elk Skins for. Soon after they offered a large one for Sall. after finding us anxious to purchase they declined silling this Skin. those people informed us that they killed those Animals among the rocks in the mountains under which they live; and that great numbers of those animals inhabit those mountains & that the lamb was killed out of a gange of 36 at a Short distance from their village. The wool of the full grown Sheep, or that on the Skin which we Saw was much Corser than that of the one which we purchased, the Skin was about the Size of that of a Common deer. The Skin we obtained appeared to be the Skin of a Sheep not fully grown, the wool fine, the Horns were abought 4 inches long, Celindric, Smooth, black, a little bending backwards and pointed; they rise from the Middle of the foeheard, and a little above the eyes, and appeared to possess all the marks of the Common Sheep as already discribed. We could precure no provisions from those people except four white Salmon trout. at 10 oClock Sergt. Pryor and Gibson joined us with Collins who had killed 3 deer. these were all of the blacktailed fallow kind. We Set out and Continued up on the N. Side of the river with great dificuelty in Consequence of the Rapidity of the Current and the large rocks which forms this Shore; the South Side of the river is impassable.
Thursday, April 10, 1806, Collins went out to hunt as per the order from last night, and Gibson's crew was instructed to wait for Collins. During that time, they were told to collect rosin from the pines in the bottom near our camp. At 6 AM, we set out and made our way to the lower point of the island, where we had to haul our canoes up a rapid for about a quarter of a mile, which we did quickly. Since Collins and Gibson hadn’t arrived yet, we directed Sergeant Pryor to stay on the island until Gibson came over to help him with the large toe rope we left behind. We planned to meet at a village of four houses belonging to the Clah-lah-lar Tribe, which is across from this island on the north side, where we intended to have breakfast. While crossing the river, which is about 400 yards wide at this spot, we got pushed back a great distance because of the fast current. I went into one of the houses of those people and barely got seated before they offered me a sheepskin for sale. Nothing could have been more welcome than the animal itself. When I examined the skin, I found it was from a young sheep, and the skin was shaped to fit a human head, considered a great ornament and highly valued by them. We traded a knife for this cased head, and for the skin, we had to give two raw elk skins. Shortly after, they offered us a large one for sale, but when they saw us eager to buy, they decided not to sell it. They told us they hunted those animals among the rocks in the mountains where they live, and that many of them inhabit those mountains. The young sheep had been killed from a herd of 36 not far from their village. The wool of the fully grown sheep, or that on the skin we saw, was much coarser than that of the young one we purchased. The skin was about the size of an average deer. The skin we got seemed to be from a not fully grown sheep, with fine wool. The horns were about four inches long, cylindrical, smooth, black, slightly bent backward and pointed. They originated from the middle of the forehead, just above the eyes, and appeared to show all the traits of a common sheep as previously described. We couldn’t get any provisions from these people besides four white salmon trout. At 10 o'clock, Sergeant Pryor and Gibson joined us with Collins, who had hunted three deer. All of them were the black-tailed fallow variety. We set out and continued along the north side of the river with great difficulty due to the speed of the current and the large rocks lining the shore; the south side of the river is impassable.
As we had but one Sufficent toe roap and were obliged to employ the Cord in getting on our Canoes the greater part of the way we could only take them one at a time which retarded our progress very much. by evening we arived at the portage on the N. Side where we landed and Conveyed our baggage to the top of the hill about 200 paces distant where we found a Camp. we had the Canoes drawn on Shore and Secured. the Small Canoe got loose from the hunters and went adrift with a tin cup & a tomahawk in her; the Indians Caught her at the last Village and brought her up to us this evening for which we gave them two knives; the Canoe overset and lost the articles which were in her.-.
As we only had one sufficient tow rope and had to use the cord to get our canoes on the water for most of the trip, we could only take them one at a time, which really slowed us down. By evening, we reached the portage on the north side, where we landed and carried our baggage to the top of the hill, about 200 paces away, where we found a camp. We pulled the canoes ashore and secured them. The small canoe got loose from the hunters and drifted away with a tin cup and a tomahawk in it; the Indians caught it at the last village and brought it back to us this evening, for which we gave them two knives. Unfortunately, the canoe overturned and lost the items that were inside.
[Lewis, April 11, 1806]
Friday April 11th 1806. As the tents and skins which covered both our men and baggage were wet with the rain which fell last evening, and as it continued still raining this morning we concluded to take our canoes first to the head of the rapids, hoping that by evening the rain would cease and afford us a fair afternoon to take our baggage over the portage. this portage is two thousand eight hundred yards along a narrow rough and slipery road. the duty of getting the canoes above the rapid was by mutual consent confided to my friend Capt. C. who took with him for that purpose all the party except Bratton who is yet so weak he is unable to work, three others who were lamed by various accedents and one other to cook for the party. a few men were absolutely necessary at any rate to guard our baggage from the War-clel-lars who crouded about our camp in considerable numbers. these are the greates theives and scoundrels we have met with. by the evening Capt. C. took 4 of our canoes above the rapids tho with much difficulty and labour. the canoes were much damaged by being driven against the rocks in dispite of every precaution which could be taken to prevent it. the men complained of being so much fatiegued in the evening that we posponed taking up our 5th canoe untill tomorrow. these rapids are much worse than they were fall when we passed them, at that time there were only three difficult points within seven miles, at present the whole distance is extreemly difficult of ascent, and it would be impracticable to decend except by leting down the empty vessels by a cord and then even the wrisk would be greater than in taking them up by the same means. the water appears to be upwards of 20 feet higher than when we decended the river. the distance by way of the river between the points of the portage is 3 Msmany of the natives crouded about the bank of the river where the men were engaged in taking up the canoes; one of them had the insolence to cast stones down the bank at two of the men who happened to be a little detatched from the party at the time. on the return of the party in the evening from the head of the rapids they met with many of the natives on the road, who seemed but illy disposed; two of these fellows met with John Sheilds who had delayed some time in purchasing a dog and was a considerable distance behind the party on their return with Capt. C. they attempted to take the dog from him and pushed him out of the road. he had nothing to defend himself with except a large knife which he drew with an intention of puting one or both of them to death before they could get themselves in readiness to use their arrows, but discovering his design they declined the combat and instantly fled through the woods. three of this same tribe of villains the Wah-clel-lars, stole my dog this evening, and took him towards their village; I was shortly afterwards informed of this transaction by an indian who spoke the Clatsop language, and sent three men in pursuit of the theives with orders if they made the least resistence or difficulty in surrendering the dog to fire on them; they overtook these fellows or reather came within sight of them at the distance of about 2 miles; the indians discovering the party in pursuit of them left the dog and fled. they also stole an ax from us, but scarcely had it in their possession before Thompson detected them and wrest it from them. we ordered the centinel to keep them out of camp, and informed them by signs that if they made any further attempts to steal our property or insulted our men we should put them to instant death. a cheif of the Clah-clel-lah tribe informed us that there were two very bad men among the Wah-clel-lahs who had been the principal actors in these seenes of outradge of which we complained, and that it was not the wish of the nation by any means to displease us. we told him that we hoped it might be the case, but we should certainly be as good as our words if they presisted in their insolence. I am convinced that no other consideration but our number at this moment protects us. The Cheif appeared mortified at the conduct of his people, and seemed friendly disposed towards us. as he appeared to be a man of consideration and we had reason to beleive much rispected by the neighbouring tribes we thought it well to bestoe a medal of small size upon him. he appeared much gratifyed with this mark of distinction, and some little attention which we shewed him. he had in his possession a very good pipe tomahawk which he informed us he had received as a present from a trader who visited him last winter over land pointing to the N. W., whome he called Swippeton; he was pleased with the tommahawk of Capt. C. in consequence of it's having a brass bowl and Capt. C. gratified him by an exchange. as a further proof of his being esteemed by this white trader, he gave us a well baked saylor's bisquit which he also informed us he had received from Swippeton. from these evidences I have no doubt but the traders who winter in some of the inlets to the N. of us visit this part of the Columbia by land at certain seasons, most probably when they are confined to their winter harbour. and if so some of those inlets are probably at no great distance from this place, as there seems to be but little inducement to intice the trader hither from any considerable distance particularly as the difficulty in traveling on the borders of this mountainous country must be great at that season as the natives informed me their snows were frequently breast deep. I observe snowshoes in all the lodges of the natives above the Columbean vally. I hope that the friendly interposition of this chief may prevent our being compelled to use some violence with these people; our men seem well disposed to kill a few of them. we keep ourselves perefectly on our guard. This evening we send Drewyer and the two Feildses on a few miles up the river to the entrance of Cruzatt's river to hunt untill our arrival. The inhabitants of the Y-eh-huh Village on the North side immediately above the rapids have lately removed to the opposite side of the river, where it appears they usually take their salmon. like their relations the Wah-Clel-lars they have taken their houses with them. I observe that all the houses lately established have their floors on the surface of the earth, are smaller and of more temperary structure than those which are sunk in the ground. I presume the former are their spring and Summer dwellings and the latter those of the fall and winter. these houses are most generally built with boards and covered with bark. some of an inferior ore more temperary cast are built entirely of cedar bark, which is kept smooth and extended by inserting small splinters of wood through the bark crosswise at the distance of 12 or 14 inches assunder. several families inhabit the same appartment. their women as well as those of the 3 villages next below us pierce the cartelage of the nose and insert various ornaments. they very seldom imprint any figures on their skins; a few I observed had one or two longitudinal lines of dots on the front of the leg, reaching from the ankle upwards about midleg. most of their women braid their hair in two tresses as before mentioned. the men usually cew their hair in two parsels which like the braded tresses of the female hang over each ear in front of the sholder, and gives an additional width to the head and face so much admired by them. these cews are usually formed with throngs of dressed Otterskin crossing each other and not roled in our manner arrond the hair. in all other rispects I observe no difference in their dress habits manners &c. from those in the Neighbourhood of the diamond Island. today we recognized a man of the Elute nation who reside at the long narrows of the Columbia, he was on his return from a trading voyage to the Columbean valley with 10 or 12 others of his nation. many other natives from the villages above were employed in taking their roots &c over the portage on their return. I observed that the men equally with the women engage in the labour of carrying. they all left their canoes below the rapids and took others above which they had left as they decended. those which were left below were taken down the river by the persons from whom they had been hired or borrowed. the natives from above behaved themselves in a very orderly manner. The salmon have not yet made their appearance, tho the natives are not so much distressed for food as I was induced to believe. I walked down today about 3/4 of a mile below our encampment to observe the manner in which these people inter their dead. I found eight sepulchers near the north bank of the river built in the following manner. four strong forks are first sunk several feet in the ground and rise about six feet high, froming a parrallelogram of 8 by 10 feet. the intervals between these upright forks, on which four poles are laid, are filled up with broad erect boards with their lower ends sunk in the ground and their upper ends confined to the horizontal poles. a flat roof is formed of several layers of boards; the floors of these sepulchres are on a level with the surface of the earth. the human bodies are well rolled in dressed skins and lashed securely with chords and laid horizontaly on the back with the head to the west. in some of these sepulchres they are laid on each other to the debth of three or four bodies. in one of those sepulchres which was nearly decayed I observed that the human bones filled it perfectly to the hight of about three feet. many articles appear to be sacreficed to the dead both within and without the sepulcres. among other articles, I observed a brass teakettle, some scollep shells, parts of several robes of cloth and skins, with sticks for diging roots &c.—this appears to be the burying ground of the Wahclellahs, Clahclellahs and Yehhuhs.
Friday, April 11th, 1806. Since the tents and coverings for our men and cargo were soaked from the rain that fell last night, and it was still raining this morning, we decided to take our canoes first to the top of the rapids, hoping that by evening the rain would stop and give us a clear afternoon to transport our belongings over the portage. This portage is 2,800 yards along a narrow, rough, and slippery path. The responsibility of getting the canoes above the rapids was, by mutual agreement, given to my friend Capt. C., who took all the party with him except Bratton, who is still too weak to work, three others who were injured in various accidents, and one more to cook for the group. A few men were absolutely necessary to guard our baggage from the Wah-clel-lars, who surrounded our camp in large numbers. They are the worst thieves and scoundrels we’ve encountered. By evening, Capt. C. managed to get four of our canoes above the rapids, though it was quite difficult and labor-intensive. The canoes were badly damaged from being slammed against the rocks despite all precautions taken to prevent this. The men complained of being so exhausted in the evening that we postponed taking our fifth canoe until tomorrow. These rapids are much worse than they were in the fall when we passed them; at that time, there were only three challenging spots within seven miles. Currently, the entire distance is extremely difficult to ascend, and it would be impractical to descend except by letting down the empty vessels with a rope, which would even be riskier than bringing them up the same way. The water level appears to be over 20 feet higher than when we went down the river. The distance by river between the points of the portage is 3 miles. Many of the natives crowded around the riverbank where the men were working on the canoes; one of them had the audacity to throw stones down the bank at two men who were slightly detached from the party at that moment. When the group returned in the evening from the top of the rapids, they encountered several of the natives on the way back, who seemed quite unfriendly. Two of these men confronted John Shields, who had lingered behind while buying a dog and was a considerable distance back from Capt. C. and the party. They tried to take the dog from him and pushed him off the path. He had nothing to defend himself with but a large knife, which he pulled out with the intention of killing one or both of them before they could get ready to use their arrows, but realizing his plan, they backed off and fled into the woods. Three members of this same tribe of thieves, the Wah-clel-lars, stole my dog this evening and took him toward their village; I was soon informed of this incident by an Indian who spoke the Clatsop language. I sent three men after the thieves with orders to fire on them if they resisted or made it difficult to hand over the dog. They caught up to these men, or rather came within sight of them, about 2 miles away; upon seeing the pursuing party, the natives abandoned the dog and ran off. They also stole an axe from us, but scarcely had possession of it before Thompson caught them and wrested it from them. We instructed the sentinel to keep them out of camp and signaled to them that if they made any further attempts to steal our property or insulted our men, we would put them to death. A chief from the Clah-clel-lah tribe informed us that there were two very bad men among the Wah-clel-lahs who had been the main perpetrators of the outrages we complained about and that it was not the intention of the nation to offend us in any way. We told him we hoped that was the case, but we would certainly follow through on our warnings if they continued their insolence. I am convinced that only our numbers at this moment are protecting us. The chief looked embarrassed by the behavior of his people and seemed friendly towards us. Since he appeared to be a man of significance and we had reason to believe he was highly respected by the neighboring tribes, we thought it wise to give him a small medal. He seemed very pleased with this mark of distinction and the attention we showed him. He had in his possession a very good pipe tomahawk, which he informed us he had received as a gift from a trader who visited him last winter overland from the northwest, whom he called Swippeton; he admired Capt. C.’s tomahawk because it had a brass bowl, and Capt. C. kindly made an exchange. As further evidence of his esteem by this white trader, he gave us a well-baked sailor's biscuit, which he said he also received from Swippeton. From these indications, I have no doubt that the traders who winter in some of the inlets north of us visit this part of the Columbia overland at certain times, most likely when they are stuck at their winter harbor. If so, those inlets are probably not too far from here, as there seems to be little incentive to lure traders from a considerable distance, especially given the difficulties in traveling along the edges of this mountainous area during that season, as the natives informed me their snow is often deep. I noticed snowshoes in all the lodges of the natives above the Columbia Valley. I hope this chief’s friendly intervention will prevent us from being forced to use violence against these people; our men seem quite eager to kill a few of them. We remain perfectly on guard. This evening, we sent Drewyer and the two Fields brothers a few miles up the river to the entrance of Cruzatt's River to hunt until we arrive. The inhabitants of the Y-eh-huh Village on the north side, just above the rapids, have recently moved to the opposite side of the river, where it seems they usually fish for salmon. Like their relatives, the Wah-Clel-lars, they brought their houses with them. I noticed that all the recently built houses have floors at ground level, are smaller, and of more temporary structure than those that are dug into the ground. I assume the former are their spring and summer dwellings while the latter are for fall and winter. These houses are generally made with boards and covered with bark. Some of the less substantial and more temporary ones are built entirely of cedar bark, which is kept smooth and extended by inserting small wooden splinters through the bark crosswise about 12 or 14 inches apart. Several families share the same living space. Their women, like those of the three villages below us, pierce the cartilage of their noses and wear various ornaments. They rarely tattoo their skin; a few I noticed had one or two lines of dots down the front of their legs, stretching from their ankles to about mid-leg. Most of their women braid their hair in two strands, as mentioned earlier. The men usually wear their hair in two sections that hang over each ear in front of their shoulders, adding width to their heads and faces, which is greatly admired by them. These styles are usually formed with strands of dressed otter skin crossing each other, not rolled around the hair as we do. In all other aspects, I observe no differences in their dress, habits, or manners from those in the vicinity of Diamond Island. Today we recognized a man from the Elute nation who lives at the long narrows of the Columbia; he was returning from a trading trip to the Columbia Valley with 10 or 12 others from his nation. Many other natives from the villages above were busy carrying their roots and other supplies over the portage on their way back. I noticed that both men and women participate equally in the labor of carrying. They all left their canoes below the rapids and took others above that they had left on their way down. Those left below were taken down the river by the people from whom they had been hired or borrowed. The natives from above behaved themselves very orderly. The salmon have not yet arrived, although the natives are not as distressed for food as I had been led to believe. I walked down today about three-quarters of a mile below our campsite to observe how these people bury their dead. I found eight tombs near the north bank of the river built as follows: four strong forks are sunk several feet into the ground and rise about six feet high, forming a parallelogram of 8 by 10 feet. The spaces between these upright forks, on which four poles are laid, are filled with broad upright boards, with their lower ends sunk into the ground and their upper ends secured to the horizontal poles. A flat roof is formed of several layers of boards; the floors of these tombs are level with the surface of the earth. The human bodies are wrapped carefully in dressed skins, tied securely with cords, and laid horizontally on their backs with their heads facing west. In some of these tombs, they are stacked on top of each other up to three or four bodies deep. In one nearly decayed tomb, I saw that the human bones filled it to about three feet high. Many items appear to be sacrificed to the dead both inside and outside the tombs. Among other things, I noticed a brass kettle, some scallop shells, bits of various cloth and skin robes, and sticks for digging roots, etc.—this appears to be the burial ground of the Wahclellahs, Clahclellahs, and Yehhuhs.
[Clark, April 11, 1806]
Friday April 11th 1806 rained the greater part of the last night and continued to rain this morning, as the Skins and the Covering of both the mend and loading were wet we determined to take the Canoes over first in hopes that by the evening the rain would Sease and afford us a fair afternoon to Carry our baggage over the portage which is 2 miles by land and a Slipery road. I therefore took all the men except three who had Sore feet and two to cook, and who were with the baggage; and with great dificuelty and much fatigue we drew up 4 of our canoes above the Rapids 3 miles in extent. the men became So fatigued that we deturmined to puspone takeing the 5th Canoe untill tomorrow. Those rapids are much worse than they were at the time we passed last fall at that time there was only three bad places in the distance of 7 miles. at this time the whole distance is a rapid and dificuelt of assent; and would be very dangerous at this Stage of the water (which is ____ feet higher than when we passed down) to decent in any kind of Craft. Great numbers of the nativs visited us and viewed us from the banks as we passed on with the Canoes, maney of those people were also about our baggage and on the portage road. two of those fellows insulted John Shields who had delayed in purchaseing a dog at the upper part of the rapids and was Some distance behind myself and the party on our return to camp. they attempted to take his dog and push him out of the road. he had nothing to defend himself except a large knife which he drew with a full deturmination to put one of them to death before he had an oppertunity of dischargeing his arrow. the nativs obseveing his motion ran off. one other Indn. Stold an ax and was not in possession before he was detected by Thompson and the ax taken from him. one other fellow attempted to Steal Capt. Lewis's dog, and had decoyed him nearly half a mile we were informed of it by a man who Spoke the Clatsop language and imediately Sent three men with their guns who over took the Indians, who on their approach ran off and lift the dog—we informed the nativ's by Signs that if the indians insulted our men or Stold our property we Should Certainly put them to death a Chief of the Clah-clal-lahs Tribe informed us that there was two very bad men who had been guilty of those mischevious acts. that it was not the wish of their tribe that any thing should be done which might displese the white people. this Chief had a large fine pipe tomahawk which he informed me he got from a Trader he called Swippeton. I exchanged tomahawks with this Chief, and as he appeared to be a man of consideration among the tribes of this neighbourhood and much conserned for the ingiries offered us, we gave him a Medal of the Small Size which appeard. to please him verry much; and will I hope have a favourable tendincy, in as much as it will attach him to our interest, and he probably will harang his people in our favour, which may prevent any acts of violence being Commited, on either Side. nothing but the Strength of our party has prevented our being robed before this time. Sent Drewyer & 2 Fields on a head to hunt. The inhabitents of the Wyach-hich Tribe Village imediately above those rapids on the N W. Side have latterly moved their village to the opposit Side of the river, where they take their Salmon; they are now in the act of removeing and not only take their furniture and effects but also the bark and most of the boards which formed their houses. Those like the tribes below Sometimes Sink their houses in the earth, and at other times have their flowrs leavil with the Surface of the earth; they are Generally built of boards and Covered with bark. those which appear intended for temporary use are most generally built of the White Cedar bark. Most of those have a division in the houses near the enterance which is at the end, or in the event of it's being a double house is from the center of a narrow passage. Several families enhabit one appartment. the women of those people as well as those in the 3 villages below pierce the cartilage of the nose in which they ware Various orniments. in other respects they do not deffer from those of the Dimond Island. tho most of the women brad their hair which hangs in two tresses, one hanging over each ear. The yound men of all those tribes ware their hair plated, in two plats anging over each Sholder, maney of them also Cew their hair with otter Skin divided on the crown of the head and hanging over each ear. to day I recognised a man of the Elute nation who reside at the Long narrows, he was on his return from a tradeing voyage to the Columbian Vally with 10 or 12 of his tribe. maney others from the villages above this were takeing their roots &c. over the portage to day on their return home.
Friday, April 11, 1806, it rained for most of the night and continued this morning. Since the skins and coverings of both the men and the load were wet, we decided to take the canoes over first, hoping that by evening the rain would stop and give us a clear afternoon to carry our baggage over the portage, which is 2 miles by land and has a slippery road. I took all the men, except for three who had sore feet and two who were cooking and managing the baggage, and with great difficulty and much fatigue, we pulled up four of our canoes above the rapids that span 3 miles. The men became so exhausted that we decided to postpone taking the fifth canoe until tomorrow. These rapids are much worse than when we passed through last fall; at that time, there were only three difficult spots within a distance of 7 miles. Now, the entire stretch is a rapid and difficult ascent, and it would be very dangerous at this water level (which is ____ feet higher than when we went downstream) to go down in any kind of craft. Many of the locals visited us and watched from the banks as we moved along with the canoes; many of these people were also near our baggage and on the portage road. Two of them insulted John Shields, who had delayed purchasing a dog at the upper part of the rapids and was some distance behind the rest of us on our way back to camp. They tried to take his dog and force him off the road. He had nothing to defend himself except a large knife, which he drew with a firm determination to kill one of them before he could shoot his arrow. The locals, noticing his action, ran away. Another Indian stole an axe but was quickly caught by Thompson, who took the axe back. One other guy tried to steal Captain Lewis's dog and had lured it nearly half a mile away. We were informed by a man who spoke the Clatsop language and immediately sent three men with their guns, who caught up with the Indians. Upon seeing them approaching, the Indians ran off and left the dog behind. We signaled to the locals that if the Indians insulted our men or stole our property, we would surely kill them. A chief from the Clah-clal-lahs tribe told us that there were two very bad men who had committed these mischiefs, and that their tribe did not want anything done that might upset the white people. This chief had a large, nice pipe tomahawk which he said he got from a trader named Swippeton. I exchanged tomahawks with this chief, and since he seemed to be a respected man among the tribes in the neighborhood and was very concerned about the wrongs done to us, we gave him a small medal, which appeared to please him a lot. I hope it will create a positive relationship, as he might advocate for us with his people, preventing any acts of violence from either side. The only reason we haven’t been robbed before now is due to the strength of our party. I sent Drewyer and two Fields ahead to hunt. The inhabitants of the Wyach-hich tribe, whose village is immediately above those rapids on the northwest side, have recently moved their village to the opposite side of the river, where they catch their salmon. They are currently in the process of moving and are taking not only their furniture and belongings but also the bark and most of the boards that made up their houses. Like the tribes below, they sometimes sink their houses into the ground and at other times have their floors level with the earth’s surface. They are generally built of boards and covered with bark. Those meant for temporary use are usually made of white cedar bark. Most of these houses have a division near the entrance, which is at the end, or if it is a double house, there’s a narrow passage from the center. Several families share one room. The women of these people, as well as those in the three villages below, pierce the cartilage of their noses in which they wear various ornaments. In other aspects, they don’t differ from those of Diamond Island. Most of the women braid their hair, which hangs in two braids, one over each ear. The young men of all these tribes wear their hair in two braids hanging over each shoulder; many of them also curl their hair with otter skin, which is split on the crown of the head and hangs over each ear. Today, I recognized a man from the Elute nation who lives at the Long Narrows; he was returning from a trading trip to the Columbia Valley with 10 or 12 members of his tribe. Many others from the villages above were carrying their roots and other items over the portage today on their way home.
vegitation is rapidly progressing. Sarvis berry, Sackacommis and the large leafed ash is in blume. also fir N. ____ in bloom
vegetation is rapidly progressing. Sarvis berry, Sackacommis, and the large-leafed ash are in bloom. Also, fir N. ____ is in bloom.
[Lewis, April 12, 1806]
Saturday April 12th 1806. It rained the greater part of last night and still continued to rain this morning. I therefore determined to take up the remaining perogue this morning for which purpose I took with me every man that could be of any service. a small distance above our camp there is one of the most difficult parts of the rapid. at this place the current sets with great violence against a projecting rock. in hawling the perogue arround this point the bow unfortunately took the current at too great a distance from the rock, she turned her side to the stream and the utmost exertions of all the party were unable to resist the forse with which she was driven by the current, they were compelled to let loose the cord and of course both perogue and cord went a drift with the stream. the loss of this perogue will I fear compell us to purchase one or more canoes of the indians at an extravegant price. after breakfast all hands were employed in taking our baggage over the portage. we caused all the men who had short rifles to carry them, in order to be prepared for the natives should they make any attempts to rob or injure them. I went up to the head of the rapids and left Capt. C. below. during the day I obtained a vocabulary of the language of the War-clel-lars &c. I found that their numbers were precisely those of the Chinnooks but the other parts of their language essentially different. by 5 P.M. we had brought up all our baggage and Capt. C. joined me from the lower camp with the Clahclellah cheif. there is an old village situated about halfway on the portage road the fraim of the houses, which are remarkably large one 160 by 45 feet, remain almost entire. the covering of the houses appears to have been sunk in a pond back of the village. this the chief informed us was the residence occasionally of his tribe. these houses are fraimed in the usual manner but consist of a double set as if oune house had been built within the other. the floors are on a level with the ground. the natives did not croud about us in such numbers today as yesterday, and behaved themselves much better; no doubt the precautions which they observed us take had a good effect. I employed sergt. Pryor the greater part of the day in reparing and corking the perogue and canoes. it continued to rain by showers all day. about 20 of the Y-eh-huhs remained with me the greater part of the day and departed in the evening. they conducted themselves with much propryety and contemned the conduct of their relations towards us. We purchased one sheepskin for which we gave the skin of an Elk and one of a deer. this animal was killed by the man who sold us the skin near this place; he informed us that they were abundant among the mountains and usually resorted the rocky parts. the big horned animal is also an inhabitant of these mountains. I saw several robes of their skins among the natives.as the evening was rainy cold and far advanced and ourselves wet we determined to remain all night. the mountains are high steep and rocky. the rock is principally black. they are covered with fir of several speceis and the white cedar. near the river we find the Cottonwood, sweet willow, broad leafed ash, a species of maple, the purple haw, a small speceis of cherry; purple currant, goosberry, red willow, vining and white burry honeysuckle, huckkle burry, sacacommis, two speceis of mountain holley, &common ash. for the three last days this inclusive we have made only 7 miles.
Saturday, April 12, 1806. It rained for most of last night and continued this morning. I decided to take up the remaining perogue today, bringing along every man who could help. Just up the river from our camp, there's one of the toughest parts of the rapids. Here, the current pushes violently against a jutting rock. While hauling the perogue around this point, the bow unfortunately caught the current too far from the rock; it turned sideways to the stream, and despite everyone's best efforts, we couldn’t resist the force of the current. We had to let go of the cord, and both the perogue and cord drifted away. I fear losing this perogue will force us to buy one or more canoes from the Indians at an outrageous price. After breakfast, everyone worked on moving our baggage over the portage. We made all the men with short rifles carry them to be ready for any natives who might try to rob or harm us. I went up to the head of the rapids and left Capt. C. below. Throughout the day, I compiled a vocabulary of the War-clel-lars’ language. I found that their numbers were identical to those of the Chinnooks, but their other language components were quite different. By 5 PM, we had moved all our baggage, and Capt. C. joined me from the lower camp with the Clahclellah chief. There’s an old village located about halfway on the portage road; the frames of the houses, which are notably large, one measuring 160 by 45 feet, remain mostly intact. The roofs seem to have sunk into a pond behind the village. The chief told us it occasionally served as the residence of his tribe. These houses are framed in the usual way but consist of a double structure, as if one house was built inside another. The floors are level with the ground. The natives didn’t crowd around us as much today as yesterday and behaved much better; the precautions we took had a positive impact, no doubt. I had Sergeant Pryor working most of the day repairing and corking the perogue and canoes. It drizzled on and off all day. About 20 of the Y-eh-huhs stayed with me for most of the day and left in the evening. They behaved quite properly and disapproved of how their relatives treated us. We bought one sheepskin, trading it for the skin of an elk and one of a deer. The animal was killed by the man who sold us the skin nearby; he told us they are plentiful in the mountains and usually inhabit the rocky areas. The big-horned animal also lives in these mountains. I saw several robes made from their skins among the natives. Since the evening was rainy, cold, and late, and we were wet, we decided to stay the night. The mountains are high, steep, and rocky, primarily composed of black rock. They are covered with fir trees of several species and white cedar. Near the river, we found cottonwood, sweet willow, broad-leafed ash, a type of maple, purple haw, a small type of cherry, purple currant, gooseberry, red willow, vining and white-barked honeysuckle, huckleberry, sacacommis, two species of mountain holly, and common ash. Over the last three days, including today, we’ve covered only 7 miles.
[Clark, April 12, 1806]
Saturday April 12th 1806. rained the greater part of the last night and this morning untile 10 A.M. we employed all hands in attempting to take up the lost Canoe. in attempting to pass by a rock against which the Current run with emence force, the bow unfortunately took the Current at too great a distance from the rock, She turned broad Side to the Stream, and the exertions of every man was not Sufficient to hold her. the men were Compelled to let go the rope and both the Canoe and rope went with the Stream. the loss of this Canoe will I fear Compell us to purchase another at an extravigent price. after brackfast all hands who were employed in Carrying the baggage over the portage 11/2 miles which they performed by 4 P.M. the nativs did not visit us in Such Crouds to day as yesterday. we Caused all the men of the party who ha Short guns to carry them on the portage for fear of Some attempt on the part of the nativs to rob the party. The rain Continued at intervales all day. in the evening after everry thing was taken from the lower Camp I Set out myself accompanied by the Cheif of the Clah-clal lars to the head of the portage. as we passed the remains of an old Village about half way the portage, this Cheif informed me that this old Village had been the residence of his Tribe dureing the last Salmon Season. this village I mentiond in decending this river, but did not know the Tribes that had inhabited it that time. Capt. Lewis took a vocabulary of the languge of those people whilst I had all the baggage taken across the portage & we formed a Camp at the place we had encamped on our way down.
Saturday, April 12, 1806. It rained most of last night and this morning until 10 A.M. We had everyone working to retrieve the lost canoe. While trying to navigate past a rock that the current hit with immense force, the bow unfortunately caught the current too far from the rock, causing it to turn sideways to the stream, and no amount of effort from the crew was enough to hold it. The men had to let go of the rope, and both the canoe and the rope were swept away by the current. I fear the loss of this canoe will force us to buy another one at an outrageous price. After breakfast, everyone who helped with carrying the baggage over the 1.5-mile portage finished by 4 P.M. The natives did not come to visit us in such large numbers today as they did yesterday. We instructed all the men in the party with short guns to carry them during the portage in case the natives attempted to rob us. The rain continued on and off throughout the day. In the evening, after everything had been moved from the lower camp, I set out myself with the chief of the Clah-clal lars to the head of the portage. As we passed the remains of an old village about halfway through the portage, this chief told me that this old village had been home to his tribe during the last salmon season. I mentioned this village when I was descending the river but didn’t know which tribes had lived there at that time. Captain Lewis took a vocabulary of the language spoken by those people while I oversaw all the baggage being moved across the portage, and we set up camp at the same spot we had camped on our way down.
at my arival at the head of the portage found about 20 of the natives of the Wy ach hich tribe who reside above the rapids, with Capt Lewis. those people appeared much better disposed towards us than either the Clahclallah or Wahclellah and Condemn their Conduct much. Those tribes I believe to be all the Same Nation their Language habits manners dress &c. are presisely alike and differ but little from those below the Great Narrows of this river. I observed a woman with a Sheep Skin robe on which I purchased for one Elk and one deer Skin. the father of this woman informed me that he had killed the animal off of which he had taken this Skin on the mountains imediately above his village, and that on those mountains great numbers of those animals were to be found in large flocks among the Steep rocks. I also purchased 2 pieces of Chapellell and Some roots of those people. as the evening was rainey and ourselves and party wet we Concluded to delay untill the morning and dry our selves. The Indians left us about 6 P M and returned to their Village on the opposit Side. mountains are high on each Side and Covered with Snow for about 1/3 of the way down. the growth is principally fir and White Cedar. the bottoms and low Situations is Covered with a variety Such as Cotton, large leafed ash, Sweet willow a Species of beech, alder, white thorn, cherry of a Small Speces, Servis berry bushes, Huckleberries bushes, a Speces of Lorel &c. &c. I saw a turkey buzzard which is the 3rd which I have Seen west of the rocky mountains. the 1st was on the 7 inst. above quick Sand river. for the three last days this inclusive we have made 7 miles only.
When I arrived at the head of the portage, I found about 20 members of the Wyachhich tribe who live above the rapids, along with Captain Lewis. These people seemed much friendlier toward us than the Clahclallah or Wahclellah tribes, and they strongly condemned their behavior. I believe all these tribes are part of the same nation; their language, habits, customs, dress, etc., are exactly alike and don't differ much from those below the Great Narrows of this river. I noticed a woman wearing a sheep skin robe, which I bought for one elk and one deer skin. The woman's father told me that he had killed the animal for this skin in the mountains just above his village, and that many animals could be found in large flocks among the steep rocks of those mountains. I also bought 2 pieces of chapellell and some roots from them. Since the evening was rainy and our group was wet, we decided to wait until morning to dry off. The Indians left us around 6 PM and returned to their village on the opposite side. The mountains are high on either side and covered with snow for about a third of the way down. The main trees are fir and white cedar, while the bottoms and low areas are filled with various plants like cotton, large-leafed ash, sweet willow, a type of beech, alder, white thorn, small cherry trees, serviceberry bushes, huckleberry bushes, a type of laurel, etc. I also spotted a turkey vulture, which is the third one I've seen west of the Rocky Mountains. The first was on the 7th, above Quick Sand River. Over the last three days, including today, we've covered only 7 miles.
[Lewis, April 13, 1806]
Sunday April 13th 1806. The loss of one of our perogues rendered it necessary to distribute her crew and cargo among the 2 remaining perogues and 2 canoes, which being done we loaded and set out 8 A.M. we passed the village immediately above the rapids where only one house at present remains entire, the other 8 having been taken down and removed to the oposite side of the river as before mentioned. we found the additional laiding which we had been compelled to put on board rendered our vessels extreemly inconvenient to mannage and in short reather unsafe in the event of high winds; I therefore left Capt. C. with the two perogues to proceede up the river on the N. side, and with the two canoes and some additional hands passed over the river above the rapids to the Y-eh-huh village in order to purchase one or more canoes. I found the village consisting of 11 houses crouded with inhabitants; it appeared to me that they could have mustered about 60 fighting men then present. they appeared very friendly disposed, and I soon obtained two small canoes from them for which I gave two robes and four elkskins. I also purchased four paddles and three dogs from them with deerskins. the dog now constitutes a considerable part of our subsistence and with most of the party has become a favorite food; certain I am that it is a healthy strong diet, and from habit it has become by no means disagreeable to me, I prefer it to lean venison or Elk, and is very far superior to the horse in any state. after remaining about 2 hours at this Village I departed and continued my rout with the four canoes along the S. side of the river the wind being too high to pass over to the entrance of Cruzatts river where I expected to have overtaken Capt. C. not seing the perogues on the opposite side I ascended the river untill one oclock or about 5 ms. above the entrance of Cruzat's river. being convinced that the perogues were behind I halted and directed the men to dress the dogs and cook one of them for dinner; a little before we had completed our meal Capt. C. arrived with the perogues and landed opposite to us. after dinner I passed the river to the perogues and found that Capt. C. had halted for the evening and was himself hunting with three of the party. the men in formed me that they had seen nothing of the hunters whom we had sent on the 11th ints. to the Entrance of Cruzatt's Riv. I directed Sergt. ordway to take the two small canoes for his mess and the loading which he had formerly carried in the perogue we lost yesterday, and to have them dryed this evening and payed with rozin. Capt. Clark returned in about an hour and being convinced that the hunters were yet behind we dispatched Sergt. Pryor in surch of them with two men and an empty canoe to bring the meat they may have killed. John Sheilds returned a little after six P.M. with two deer which he had killed. these were also of the blacktailed fallow deer; there appears to be no other speceis of deer in these mountains. Capt. C. informed me that the wind had detained him several hours a little above Cruzatt's river; that while detained here he sent out some men to hunt; one of them wounded two deer but got neither of them. the wind having lulled in the evening and not seing anything of Drewyer and the Feildses he had proceeded on to this place where he intended waiting for me, and as he did not see my canoes when he landed had taken a hunt with some of the men as before mentioned.
Sunday, April 13th, 1806. The loss of one of our perogues made it necessary to distribute her crew and cargo among the two remaining perogues and two canoes. Once this was done, we loaded up and set out at 8 A.M. We passed the village just above the rapids, where only one house remains intact; the other eight have been taken down and moved to the opposite side of the river, as previously mentioned. We found the extra load we had to add made our vessels extremely difficult to manage and quite unsafe in the event of strong winds. Therefore, I left Capt. C. with the two perogues to head up the river on the north side, and I took the two canoes and some extra hands across the river above the rapids to the Y-eh-huh village to purchase one or more canoes. The village had 11 houses packed with people; it seemed they could have mustered about 60 fighting men at that time. They appeared very friendly, and I quickly obtained two small canoes from them in exchange for two robes and four elk skins. I also bought four paddles and three dogs from them for some deer skins. The dogs now make up a significant part of our food supply and have become a favorite meal for most of the party; I believe it's a healthy and strong diet, and I've gotten used to it, finding it much more enjoyable than lean venison or elk, and it’s definitely better than horse in any form. After staying for about two hours at this village, I left and continued my route with the four canoes along the south side of the river, as the wind was too strong to cross over to the entrance of Cruzat's river, where I expected to catch up with Capt. C. Not seeing the perogues on the opposite side, I continued upstream until one o'clock, about five miles above the entrance of Cruzat's river. Convinced that the perogues were behind, I stopped and told the men to prepare the dogs and cook one for dinner. Just before we finished our meal, Capt. C. arrived with the perogues and landed across from us. After dinner, I crossed over to the perogues and found that Capt. C. had stopped for the evening and was out hunting with three of the party. The men informed me that they hadn’t seen anything of the hunters we sent on the 11th to the entrance of Cruzat's river. I directed Sgt. Ordway to take the two small canoes for his group and the load he had previously carried in the perogue we lost yesterday, and to have them dried tonight and coated with rosin. Capt. Clark returned in about an hour and, convinced that the hunters were still behind, we sent Sgt. Pryor in search of them with two men and an empty canoe to bring back any meat they might have killed. John Shields came back a little after six P.M. with two deer he had killed. These were also black-tailed fallow deer; it seems there's no other species of deer in these mountains. Capt. C. told me that the wind had held him up for several hours just above Cruzat's river. While he was waiting there, he sent some men out to hunt; one of them wounded two deer but couldn’t retrieve either. As the wind calmed down in the evening and not seeing anything of Drewyer and the Fieldses, he decided to move on to this spot, where he planned to wait for me. When he didn’t see my canoes upon landing, he went hunting with some of the men, as mentioned earlier.
[Clark, April 13, 1806]
Sunday April 13th 1806 The loss of one of our large Canoes rendered it necessary to divide the loading and men of that Canoe between the remaining four, which was done and we loaded and Set out at 8 oClock A.M. passed the village imediately above the rapids, where only one house remains entire the other 8 haveing been taken down and moved to the opposit Side of the Columbia as already mentioned. the additional men and baggage in each Canoe renders them Crouded and unsafe. Capt. Lewis with 2 of the Smallest Canoes of Sergt. Pryor & gibson and Crossed above the Rapids to the Village on the S E Side with a view to purchase a Canoe of the nativs if possible. he took with him Some Cloth and a fiew Elk skins and Deer Skins. I with the two large Canoes proceeded on up the N. W. Side with the intention of gitting to the Encampment of our hunters who was derected to hunt in the bottom above Crusats River, and there wait the arival of Capt. Lewis. I proceeded on to the bottom in which I expected to find the hunters but Could See nothing of them. the wind rose and raised the ways to Such a hight that I could not proceed any further. we landed and I sent out Shields and Colter to hunt; Shields Shot two deer but Could get neither of them. I walkd. to Crusats river and up it 1/2 a mile on my return to the party found that the wind had lulled and as we Could See nothing of our hunters. I deturmined to proceed on to the next bottom where I thought it probable they had halted at 1/2 passed 2 P M Set out and proceeded on to the bottom 6 miles and halted at the next bottom formed a Camp and Sent out all the hunters. I also walked out my self on the hills but saw nothing. on my return found Capt. Lewis at Camp with two canoes which he had purchased at the Y-ep-huh village for two robes and four elkskins. he also purchased 4 paddles and three Dogs from the nativs with deer Skins. the dogs now constitutes a considerable part of our Subsistance & with most of the party has become a favourable food. Certain I am that is a helthy Strong diet, derected Serjt. ordway to take the 2 Small Canoes purchased by Capt. Lewis for his mess and the loading he had in his Canoe which we lost yesterday, and drawed up and paid with rozin.
Sunday, April 13th, 1806 The loss of one of our large canoes forced us to split the cargo and crew of that canoe among the remaining four, which we did before setting out at 8:00 AM. We passed the village just above the rapids, where only one house is still standing; the other eight have been taken down and moved to the opposite side of the Columbia, as previously mentioned. The extra men and baggage in each canoe made them crowded and unsafe. Captain Lewis took two of the smaller canoes, belonging to Sergeant Pryor and Gibson, and crossed above the rapids to the village on the southeast side, hoping to buy a canoe from the natives if possible. He took some cloth and a few elk and deer skins with him. I took the two large canoes and continued up the northwest side, planning to reach our hunters' camp, who were directed to hunt in the bottom above Crusat's River, and wait for Captain Lewis to arrive. I made my way to the bottom where I expected to find the hunters but saw no sign of them. The wind picked up, making the waves too high to proceed any further. We landed, and I sent out Shields and Colter to hunt; Shields shot two deer but couldn't retrieve either of them. I walked to Crusat's River and traveled half a mile upstream. On my way back to the party, I found that the wind had died down, and since we still couldn't find our hunters, I decided to move on to the next bottom where I thought it was likely they had stopped. At 2:30 PM, I set out and traveled six miles to the next bottom, where we made camp and sent out all the hunters. I also went out to the hills myself but saw nothing. Upon returning, I found Captain Lewis at camp with two canoes he had purchased at the Y-ep-huh village for two robes and four elk skins. He also bought four paddles and three dogs from the natives along with deer skins. The dogs are now a significant part of our food supply and have become a preferred food for most of the crew. I directed Sergeant Ordway to take the two small canoes Captain Lewis bought for his mess and the cargo he had in his canoe that we lost yesterday, and to draw up and pay with rosin.
I was convinced that the hunters must have been up River Cruzatt. despatched Sergt. Pryor with 2 men in a Canoe, with directions to assend Crusats River and if he found the hunters to assist them in with the meat. Jo. Shields returned about Sunset with two deer which he had killed, those were of the Black tail fallow Deer. there appears to be no other Species of Deer in those mountains. We proceeded on 12 miles.
I believed the hunters had to be upstream on River Cruzatt. I sent Sgt. Pryor and two men in a canoe with instructions to head up Crusat's River and help the hunters with the meat if they found them. Jo. Shields came back around sunset with two deer he had killed; they were black-tailed fallow deer. It seems there aren’t any other species of deer in those mountains. We continued on for 12 miles.
[Lewis, April 14, 1806]
Monday April 14th 1806. This morning at seven oCk. we were joined by Sergt. Pryor and the three hunters they brought with them 4 deer which Drewyer had killed yesterday. we took breakfast and departed. at 9 A.M. the wind arrose and continued hard all day but not so violent as to prevent our proceeding. we kept close along the N. shore all day. the river from the rapids as high as the commencement of the narrows is from 1/2 to 3/4 of a mile in width, and possesses scarcely any current. the bed is principally rock except at the entrance of Labuish's river which heads in Mount hood and like the quicksand river brings down from thence vast bodies of sand. the mountains through which the river passes nearly to the sepulchre rock, are high broken, rocky, partially covered with fir white cedar, and in many places exhibit very romantic seenes. some handsome cascades are seen on either hand tumbling from the stupendious rocks of the mountains into the river. near the border of the river I observed today the long leafed pine. this pine increases in quantity as you ascend the river and about the sepulchre rock where the lower country commences it superceedes the fir altogether. throughout the whole course of this river from the rapids as high as the Chilluckkittequaws, we find the trunks of many large pine trees sanding erect as they grew at present in 30 feet water; they are much doated and none of them vegetating; at the lowest tide of the river many of these trees are in ten feet water. certain it is that those large pine trees never grew in that position, nor can I account for this phenomenon except it be that the passage of the river through the narrow pass at the rapids has been obstructed by the rocks which have fallen from the hills into that channel within the last 20 years; the appearance of the hills at that place justify this opinion, they appear constantly to be falling in, and the apparent state of the decayed trees would seem to fix the era of their decline about the time men-tioned. at 1 P.M. we arrived at a large village situated in a narrow bottom on the N. side a little above the entrance of canoe creek. their houses are reather detatched and extent for several miles. they are about 20 in number. These people call themselves We-ock-sock, Wil-lacum. they differ but litte in appeance dress &c. from those of the rapids. Their men have some leging and mockersons among them. these are in the stile of Chopunnish. they have some good horses of which we saw ten or a douzen. these are the fist horses we have met with since we left this neighbourhood last fall, in short the country below this place will not permit the uce of this valuable animal except in the Columbian vally and there the present inhabitants have no uce for them as they reside immediately on the river and the country is too thickly timbered to admit them to run the game with horses if they had them. we halted at this village and dined. purchased five dogs some roots, shappalell, filberds and dryed burries of the inhabitants. here I observed several habitations entirely under grownd; they were sunk about 8 feet deep and covered with strong timber and several feet of earth in a conic form. these habitations were evacuated at present. they are about 16 feet in diameter, nearly circular, and are entered through a hole at the top which appears to answer the double purpose of a chimney and a door. from this entrance you decend to the floor by a ladder. the present habitations of these people were on the surface of the ground and do not differ from those of the tribes of the rapids. their language is the same with that of the Chilluckkittequaws. these people appeared very friendly. some of them informed us that they had lately returned from a war excurtion against the snake indians who inhabit the upper part of the Multnomah river to the S. E. of them. they call them To-wannah'-hi'-ooks. that they had been fortunate in their expedition and had taken from their enimies most of the horses which we saw in their possession. after dinner we pursued our voyage; Capt. Clark walked on shore with Charbono. I ascended the river about six miles at which place the river washed the base of high clifts on the Lard. side, here we halted a few minutes and were joined by Capt. C. and Charbono and proceeded on to the entrance of a small run on N. side a little below a large village on the same side opposite the sepulchre rock. this village can raise about an hundred fighting men they call themselves. they do not differ in any rispect from the village below. many of them visited our camp this evening and remained with us untill we went to bed. they then left us and retired to their quarters.-
Monday, April 14th, 1806. This morning at seven o’clock, we were joined by Sergeant Pryor and three hunters who brought with them four deer that Drewyer had killed yesterday. We had breakfast and set off. At 9 A.M., the wind picked up and blew hard all day, but it wasn’t so strong that we couldn’t continue. We stayed close to the north shore all day. The river from the rapids up to the beginning of the narrows is half a mile to three-quarters of a mile wide and has hardly any current. The riverbed is mostly rocky, except at the mouth of Labuish's River, which originates at Mount Hood and, like the Quicksand River, carries down a lot of sand. The mountains we passed near the sepulchre rock are high, rugged, rocky, partially covered with fir and white cedar, and in many places present very scenic views. We can see some beautiful waterfalls on either side cascading from the towering rocks into the river. Near the riverbank today, I noticed the long-leafed pine. This pine becomes more common as we move upstream, and around the sepulchre rock, where the lower country begins, it completely takes over from the fir trees. Throughout the entire stretch of this river from the rapids up to the Chilluckkittequaws, we find many large pine trunks standing upright as if they grew there, currently submerged in 30 feet of water; they are very decayed, and none of them are sprouting new growth. At the lowest tide of the river, many of these trees are in ten feet of water. It’s clear that these large pine trees didn’t grow in that position, and I can’t explain this phenomenon other than to suggest that the river’s passage through the narrow rapids has been blocked by rocks that have fallen from the hills into that channel in the last 20 years; the state of the hills at that spot supports this idea; they constantly seem to be crumbling, and the condition of the decayed trees appears to date their decline to around that time. At 1 P.M., we arrived at a large village situated in a narrow valley on the north side, just above the entrance of Canoe Creek. Their houses are fairly spread out and extend for several miles, numbering about 20. These people call themselves We-ock-sock, Wil-lacum. They look and dress hardly any differently than those at the rapids. Some of the men wear leggings and moccasins in the style of the Chopunnish. They have some good horses; we saw about ten or a dozen. These are the first horses we’ve encountered since we left this area last fall. In short, the land below this place doesn’t accommodate the use of this valuable animal, except in the Columbia Valley, where the current inhabitants have no use for them because they live right on the river, and the land is too densely forested for them to chase game with horses if they had them. We stopped at this village to have lunch and bought five dogs, some roots, shappalell, filberts, and dried berries from the residents. Here, I noticed several homes completely underground; they were sunk about eight feet deep and covered with strong timber and several feet of earth shaped like a cone. These homes were currently unoccupied. They are about 16 feet in diameter, nearly circular, and accessed through a hole at the top that serves both as a chimney and a door. From this entrance, you descend to the floor by a ladder. The current homes of these people are on the surface and are similar to those of the tribes at the rapids. Their language is the same as that of the Chilluckkittequaws. The people seemed very friendly. Some told us they had recently returned from a war expedition against the Snake Indians who live in the upper part of the Multnomah River to the southeast of them. They call them To-wannah'-hi'-ooks and said they were successful in their expedition and had taken most of the horses we saw in their possession. After lunch, we continued our journey; Captain Clark walked on shore with Charbono. I traveled upstream about six miles to a place where the river washed the base of high cliffs on the left side. We stopped there for a few minutes and were joined by Captain Clark and Charbono, then proceeded to the entrance of a small stream on the north side just below a large village on the same side, opposite the sepulchre rock. This village claims to be able to raise about a hundred warriors. They don’t differ in any respect from the village below. Many of them visited our camp this evening and stayed with us until we went to bed, then they left and returned to their own quarters.
[Clark, April 14, 1806]
Monday April 14th 1806 This morning at 7 oClock we were joined by Sgt. Pryor and they three hunters they brought with them 4 deer which drewyer had killed yesterday. we took brackfast and departed at 9 A.M. the wind rose and Continued to blow hard all day but not so violent as to prevent our proceeding. we kept Close allong the N. Shore all day. the river from the rapids to the Commencement of the narrows is from 1/2 to 3/4 of a Mile in wedth, and possesses but little Current. the bead is rock except at the enterence of Labiech's river which heads in Mt. Hood and like the quick Sand River brings down from thence Vast bodies of Sand the Mountains through which the river passes nearly to Cataract River are high broken rocky, particularly Covered with fir and white Cedar, and in maney places very romantic scenes. Some handsom Cascades are Seen on either Side tumbling from the Stupendious rocks of the mountains into the river. I observe near the river the long leafed Pine which increas as we assend and Superseeds the fir altogether about the Sepulchre rock. We find the trunks of maney large pine trees Standing erect as they grew, at present in 30 feet water; they are much doated and none of them vegitateing. at the lowest water of the river maney of those trees are in 10 feet water. the Cause I have attempted to account for as I decended. at 1 P M. we arrived at a large village Situated in a narrow bottom on the N. Side a little above the enterance of Canoe Creek. their houses are reather detached, and extend for Several Miles. they are about 20 in number. those people Call themselves Wil-la-cum. they differ but little in appearance dress &c. from those of the rapids. their men have Some legins and mockersons among them. those are in the Stile of Chopunnish. they have Some good horss of which we Saw 10 or 12 these are the first horses we have met with Since we left this neighbourhood last fall in Short the Country below this place will not permit the use of this valuable animal except in the Columbian vally, and there the present inhabitents have no use for them as they reside imediately on the river and the Country is too thickly timbd. We halted at this village Dined and purchased five dogs, Some roots Chappalell, Philberds and dried berries of the inhabitents. here I observed Several habitations under ground; they were Sunk about 8 feet deep and covered with Strong timber and Several feet of earth in a conic form. those habitations are avacuated at present. they are about 16 feet diamieter, nearly Circular, and are entered through a hole at top which appears to answer the double purpose of a Chimney and a dore. from this enterance you decend to the flore by a ladder. the present habitations of those people were on the Surface of the ground and do not differ from those of the tribes about the Rapids. their language is the Same with the Che luck kit to quaws. these people appeared very friendly. Some of them informed us that they had latterly returned from the War excurtion against the Snake Indians who inhabit the upper part of the Multnomah river to the S. E. of them they Call them To wan nah hi ooks. that they had been fortunate in the expidition and had taken from their enimies most of the horses which we Saw in their possession. after dinner we proceeded on our voyage. I walked on Shore with Shabono on the N. Side through a handsom bottom. met Several parties of women and boys in Serch of herbs & roots to Subsist on maney of them had parcels of the Stems of the Sunflower. I joined Capt Lewis and the party at 6 miles, at which place the river washed the bottom of high Clifts on the N. Side. Several Canoes over take us with families moveing up. we passed 3 encampments and came too in the mouth of a Small Creek on the N. Side imediately below a village and opposit the Sepulchar rock. this village Consists of about 100 fighting men of Several tribes from the plains to the North Collected here waiting for the Salmon. they do not differ in any respect from those below. many of them visited our Camp this evening and remaind. with us untill we went to bead. they then left us and returned to their quarters. made ____ miles.
Monday, April 14th, 1806 This morning at 7 o'clock, we were joined by Sgt. Pryor and the three hunters he brought with him. They had four deer that Drewyer killed yesterday. We had breakfast and left at 9 A.M. The wind picked up and kept blowing hard all day, but it wasn't so strong that we couldn't continue. We stayed close to the north shore all day. The river from the rapids to the beginning of the narrows is about half to three-quarters of a mile wide, with little current. The riverbed is rocky, except at the entrance of Labiech's River, which originates from Mt. Hood and, like the Quick Sand River, carries a lot of sand from there. The mountains the river goes through, almost up to Cataract River, are high and rocky, mostly covered with fir and white cedar, and in many places, they create very picturesque scenes. You can see some beautiful cascades on both sides, pouring from the steep rocks of the mountains into the river. I noticed near the river the long-leafed pine, which increases as we go higher and takes over from the fir entirely around the Sepulchre rock. We found the trunks of many large pine trees standing upright as they grew, currently submerged in 30 feet of water; they are much decayed and none of them are growing. At the lowest point of the river, many of those trees are in 10 feet of water. I've tried to explain why as I descended. At 1 P.M., we arrived at a large village situated in a narrow area on the north side, just above the entrance of Canoe Creek. Their houses are somewhat spread out and extend for several miles; there are about 20 in number. These people call themselves Wil-la-cum. They look and dress very similarly to those from the rapids. The men have some leggings and moccasins among them, styled like the Chopunnish. They have some good horses; we saw about 10 or 12. These are the first horses we've encountered since we left this area last fall. Briefly, the territory below this place doesn't allow for the use of this valuable animal except in the Columbia Valley, where the current residents have no need for them as they live right by the river, and the area is too densely wooded. We stopped at this village, had lunch, and purchased five dogs, some roots, chappalell, filberts, and dried berries from the locals. Here, I observed several underground homes; they were sunk about 8 feet deep and covered with sturdy timber and several feet of earth in a cone shape. These homes are currently abandoned. They are about 16 feet in diameter, nearly circular, and are entered through a hole at the top, which serves as both a chimney and a door. From this entrance, you descend to the floor using a ladder. The current homes of these people are on the surface and are similar to those of the tribes around the rapids. Their language is the same as that of the Che-luck-kit-to-quaws. They seemed very friendly. Some informed us they had recently returned from a military expedition against the Snake Indians, who live in the upper part of the Multnomah River to the southeast. They refer to them as To wan nah hi ooks and mentioned they were successful in the expedition, taking most of the horses we saw in their possession. After lunch, we continued our journey. I walked along the shore with Shabono on the north side through a beautiful bottomland. We met several groups of women and boys foraging for herbs and roots to eat; many of them had bundles of sunflower stems. I rejoined Capt. Lewis and the group at six miles, where the river was washing the base of high cliffs on the north side. Several canoes overtook us with families moving upstream. We passed three camps and stopped at the mouth of a small creek on the north side, just below a village, across from the Sepulchre rock. This village consists of about 100 fighting men from several tribes from the plains to the north, gathered here waiting for the salmon. They do not differ in any way from those downriver. Many of them visited our camp this evening and stayed with us until we went to bed. They then left and returned to their quarters. Made ____ miles.
[Lewis, April 15, 1806]
Tuesday April 15th 1806 We delayed this morning untill after breakfast in order to purchase some horses of the Indians; accordingly we exposed some articles in exchange for horses the natives were unwilling to barter, we therefore put up our merchandize and at 8 A.M. we set out. we halted a few minutes at the sepulchre rock, and examined the deposits of the ded at that place. these were constructed in the same manner of those already discribed below the rapids. some of them were more than half filled with dead bodies. there were thirteen sepulchres on this rock which stands near the center of the river and has a surface of about 2 acres above highwater mark.—from hence we returned to the nothern shore and continued up it about four miles to another village of the same nation with whom we remained last night. here we halted and informed the natives of our wish to purchase horses; the produced us several for sale but would not take the articles which we had in exchange for them. they wanted an instrumet which the Northwest traders call an eye-dag which we had not. we procured two dogs of them and departed. a little below the entrance of Cataract river we halted at another village of the same people, at which we were equally unsuccessful) in the purchase of horses. we also halted at the two villages of the Chilluckkittequaws a few miles above with no better success. at three in the evening we arrived at the entrance of Quinnette creek which we ascended a short distance and encamped at the place we have called rockfort camp. here we were visited by some of the people from the villages at the great narrows and falls. we informed them of our wish to purchase horses, & agreed to meet them on the opposite or North side of the river tomorrow for the purpose of bartering with them. most of them returned to their villages this evening three only remained with us all night. these people are much better clad than any of the nations below; their men have generally leging mockersons and large robes, many of them wear shirts of the same form those of the Chopunnish and Shoshonees highly ornamented with the quills of the porcupine as are also their mockersons and legings. they conceal the parts of generation with the skin of a fox or some other small animal drawn underneath a girdle and hanging loosly in front of them like a narrow apron. the dress of their women differs very little from those about the rapids. both men and women cut their hair in the forehead which comes down as low as the eyebrows, they have long earlocks cut square at the end. the other part of their hair is dressed in the same manner as those of the rapids. after we landed and formed our camp this evening Drewyer and some others took a hunt and killed a deer of the longtailed kind. it was a buck and the young horns had shot fourth about 2 inches.
Tuesday, April 15, 1806 We delayed this morning until after breakfast to buy some horses from the Indians. We laid out some goods to trade for the horses, but the natives were reluctant to barter. So, we packed up our merchandise and set out at 8 A.M. We stopped for a few minutes at the sepulcher rock and examined the burial sites there. They were built just like those described below the rapids. Some were more than half filled with dead bodies. There were thirteen tombs on this rock, which is near the center of the river and has about 2 acres of surface above high water mark. From there, we returned to the northern shore and continued upstream for about four miles to another village of the same nation where we stayed last night. We stopped and told the natives we wanted to buy horses. They showed us several for sale but wouldn’t accept the goods we had for trade. They wanted a tool that the Northwest traders call an eye-dag, which we didn’t have. We got two dogs from them and left. A little below the entrance of Cataract River, we stopped at another village of the same people, where we were also unsuccessful in buying horses. We also stopped at two villages of the Chilluckkittequaws a few miles upstream, with no better luck. At three in the afternoon, we arrived at the entrance of Quinnette Creek, which we went up a short distance and camped at the place we’ve called Rockfort Camp. Here, some people from the villages at the great narrows and falls came to visit us. We told them we wanted to buy horses and agreed to meet them on the opposite, or north side of the river tomorrow to trade. Most of them went back to their villages this evening, but three stayed with us all night. These people are much better dressed than any of the groups downstream; their men generally wear legging mockersons and large robes, and many wear shirts similar to those of the Chopunnish and Shoshonees, highly decorated with porcupine quills, as are their mockersons and leggings. They cover their private parts with the skin of a fox or some other small animal secured under a girdle, hanging loosely in front like a narrow apron. The women's clothing doesn't differ much from those around the rapids. Both men and women cut their hair at the forehead, which hangs down to the eyebrows, with long earlocks cut straight at the end. The rest of their hair is styled similarly to those of the rapids. After we landed and set up camp this evening, Drewyer and some others went hunting and killed a long-tailed deer. It was a buck, and the young antlers had grown about 2 inches.
[Clark, April 15, 1806]
Tuesday April 15th 1806 We delayed this morning untill after brackfast in order to purchase Some horses of the Indians; accordingly we exposed Some articles in exchange for horses the nativs were unwilling to exchange their horses, we put up our merchindize and at 8 A M. Set out. we halted a fiew minits at the Sepulchar rock and examined the deposit of the dead at that place. those were Constructed in the Same manner of those already described below the rapids. Some of them were more than half filled with dead bodies. there were 13 Sepulchers on this rock which Stands near the Center of the river, and has a Cerface of about two acres above the water.-. from hence we returned to the Northern Shore and Continued up it about 4 miles to a Village at the enterance of Cateract River, here we halted and informed the nativs of our wish to purchase horses; the produced Several for Sale but would not take the articles we had in exchange for them. they wanted an instriment which the Northw Traders call an eye dag which we had not. we precured two dogs and departed we also halted at the two villages of the Chil luck kitequaws a fiew Ms. above with no better Sucksess. at 3 in the evening we arivied at the enterance of Quinnett Creek which we assended a Short distance and Encamped at the place we had Called rock fort Camp. here we were visited by Some of the people from the Villages at the long Narrows & Falls. we informed them of our wish to purchase horses, and agreed to meet them on the opposit or north Side on tomorrow for the purpose of bartering with them. most of them returned to their village this evening three only remained with us all night. those people are much better Clad than the nativs below. their men have generaly Legins mockersons & large robes. Maney of them were Shirts of the Same form of those of the Chopunnish & Shoshonees highly ornamented with the quils of the purcupine, as are also their mockersons & Legins. they Conseal the parts of generation with the Skins of the Fox or Some other Small animal drawn under neath a girdle and hanging loosely in front of them like a narrow apron. The dress of their women differ verry little from those about the rapids. both men & women Cut their hair in the forehead which comes down as low as the Eyebrows, they have long ear locks Cut Square at the end. The other parts of their hair is dressed in the Same Manner as those of the rapids. after we landld and formed our Camp this evening Drewyer and some oths took a hunt and killed a Deer of the log tailed kind. it was a Buck and the young deer horns had Shot foth about two inches made ____ miles to day.
Tuesday, April 15th, 1806 We waited this morning until after breakfast to buy some horses from the Native Americans. We offered some items in exchange for horses, but the natives were not willing to trade. We packed up our merchandise and set out at 8 AM. We stopped for a few minutes at the Sepulcher rock and examined the burial sites there. They were made the same way as the ones described below the rapids. Some were more than half filled with bodies. There were 13 sepulchers on this rock, which is located near the center of the river and covers about two acres above the water. From there, we returned to the northern shore and continued up it for about 4 miles to a village at the mouth of Cataract River. Here, we paused and told the natives we wanted to buy horses; they showed us several for sale but wouldn't accept the items we had in exchange. They wanted a tool that the Northwestern traders call an eye dagger, which we didn't have. We got two dogs and left. We also stopped at the two villages of the Chil luck kitequaws a few miles above, but had no better luck. At 3 in the evening, we arrived at the entrance of Quinnett Creek, which we ascended for a short distance and set up camp at the site we called Rock Fort Camp. Here, some people from the villages at the Long Narrows & Falls came to visit us. We informed them of our wish to buy horses and agreed to meet them on the opposite or north side tomorrow to barter. Most of them returned to their village this evening, but three stayed with us all night. These people are dressed much better than the natives below. Their men usually wear leggings, mockersons, and large robes. Many of them wore shirts similar to those of the Chopunnish and Shoshonees, decorated with porcupine quills, as were their mockersons and leggings. They cover their genital areas with the skins of a fox or another small animal, drawn underneath a girdle and hanging loosely in front like a narrow apron. The women's clothing differs very little from that of those around the rapids. Both men and women cut their hair at the forehead, which comes down to their eyebrows, and they have long sideburns cut square at the end. The rest of their hair is styled similarly to that of the people near the rapids. After we landed and set up camp this evening, Drewyer and some others went hunting and killed a deer of the log-tailed kind. It was a buck, and its young antlers had shot forth about two inches. We traveled ___ miles today.
[Lewis, April 16, 1806]
Wednesday April 16th 1806. About 8 A.M. Capt. Clark passed the river with the two interpreters, the indian woman and nine men in order to trade with the natives for their horses, for which purpose he took with him a good part of our stock of merchandize. I remained in camp; sent out the hunters very early in the morning, and set Sergts. Gass and Pryor with some others at work to make a parsel of packsaddles. twelve horses will be sufficient to transport our baggage and some pounded fish which we intend taking with us as a reserved store for the rocky mountains. I was visited today by several of the natives, and amused myself in making a collection of the esculent plants in the neighbourhood such as the Indians use, a specemine of which I preserved. I also met with sundry other plants which were strangers to me which I also preserved, among others there is a currant which is now in blume and has yellow blossom something like the yellow currant of the Missouri but is a different speceis. Reubin Feilds returned in the evening and brought with him a large grey squrrel and two others of a kind I had never before seen. they are a size less than the grey squirrel common to the middle atlantic states and of a pided grey and yellowish brown colour, in form it resembles our grey squrrel precisely. I had them skined leaving the head feet and tail to them and placed in the sun to dry. Joseph Feilds brought me a black pheasant which he had killed; this I found on examination to be the large black or dark brown pheasant I had met with on the upper part of the Missouri. it is as large as a well grown fowl the iris of the eye is of a dark yellowish brown, the puple black, the legs are booted to the toes, the tail is composed of 18 black feathers tiped with bluish white, of which the two in the center are reather shorter than the others which are all of the same length. over the eye there is a stripe of a 1/4 of an inch in width uncovered with feathers of a fine orrange yellow. the wide spaces void of feathers on the side of the neck are also of the same colour. I had some parts of this bird preserved. our present station is the last point at which there is a single stick of timber on the river for a great distance and is the commencement of the open plains which extend nearly to the base of the rocky Mts. Labuish returned this evening having killed two deer I sent and had them brought in. this evening Capt. C. informed me by some of the men whom he sent over that that he had obtained no horses as yet of the natives. that they promised to trade with him provided he would remove to their vil-lage. to this he had consented and should proceede to the Skillute village above the long narrows as soon as the men returned whom he had sent to me for some other articles. I dispatched the men on their return to capt. C. immediately with these articles and he set out with his party accompanyed by the natives to their village where he remained all night.—the natives who had spent the day with me seemed very well disposed, they left me at 6 in the evening and returned to their rispective villages. the hunters informed me that they saw some Antelopes, & the tracks of several black bear, but no appearance of any Elk. we were informed by the Indians that the river which falls in on the S. side of the Columbia just above the Eneshur village heads in Mount hood and dose not water the extensive country which we have heretofore calculated on. a great portion of that extensive tract of country to the S. and S. W. of the Columbia and it's S. E. branch, and between the same and the waters of Callifornia must be watered by the Multnomah river.-
Wednesday, April 16, 1806. Around 8 A.M., Capt. Clark crossed the river with the two interpreters, an Indian woman, and nine men to trade with the locals for their horses. He took a good amount of our merchandise with him for this purpose. I stayed in camp, sent out the hunters early in the morning, and had Sergts. Gass and Pryor, along with some others, start working on a batch of packsaddles. Twelve horses will be enough to carry our luggage and some pounded fish we plan to take with us as a reserve for the Rocky Mountains. I had several visitors from the natives today and spent some time collecting edible plants from the area that the Indians use, preserving a specimen of each. I also found various other plants I hadn’t seen before, including a currant in bloom with yellow flowers that looks similar to the yellow currant from Missouri, but it’s a different species. Reubin Feilds came back in the evening, bringing with him a large gray squirrel and two others I had never encountered before. They are slightly smaller than the gray squirrels common in the Middle Atlantic states and have a mixed gray and yellowish-brown color. In shape, they look exactly like our gray squirrels. I had them skinned, leaving the head, feet, and tail intact, and placed them in the sun to dry. Joseph Feilds brought me a black pheasant he had killed, which I found to be the large black or dark brown pheasant I encountered in the upper part of the Missouri. It’s about the size of a well-grown chicken; the iris of its eye is dark yellowish-brown, and the pupil is black. The legs are booted down to the toes, and the tail consists of 18 black feathers tipped with bluish-white, with the two center feathers being slightly shorter than the others. Above the eye, there's a quarter-inch-wide stripe of orange-yellow feathers, and the bare patches on the sides of the neck are the same color. I preserved some parts of this bird. Our current location is the last place along the river with any trees for a great distance, marking the beginning of the open plains that extend almost to the base of the Rocky Mountains. Labuish returned this evening after killing two deer, which I sent for and had brought in. This evening, Capt. C. informed me through some men he sent over that he hadn’t obtained any horses yet from the natives. They promised to trade with him if he moved to their village. He agreed and plans to proceed to the Skillute village above the long narrows as soon as the men he sent to me for other supplies return. I immediately dispatched the men back to Capt. C. with these items, and he set out with his party, accompanied by the natives, to their village, where he stayed the night. The natives who spent the day with me seemed friendly; they left at 6 in the evening to return to their respective villages. The hunters reported seeing some antelopes and tracks of several black bears, but no signs of elk. The Indians let us know that the river flowing from the south side of the Columbia just above the Eneshur village originates in Mount Hood and doesn’t water the vast lands we previously thought it would. A significant portion of that extensive area south and southwest of the Columbia, and between it and the waters of California, must be watered by the Multnomah River.
[Clark, April 16, 1806]
April 16th 1806 Crossed the river and Sent Drewyer & Goodrich to the Skil lute village to envite the Indians to trade horses with us, also sent Frazer & Shabono to the Che-luck-kit-ti-quar village for the same purpose a number of Indians came of both nations and delayed the greater part of the day without tradeing a Single horse the Great Chief of the Skillutes also came with Drewyer. he was lame and Could not walk he told me if I would go to his Town his people would trade with me. I Set out late and arrived at Sunset and informd. the natives that in the morning I would trade with them. he gave me onions to eate which had been Sweated. Peter played the violin and the men danced. Saw abt. 100 Stacks of fish. maney nations visit this place for trade. the discription of the houses, their dress habits &c. Smoked &c. I saw great numbers of horses
April 16, 1806: I crossed the river and sent Drewyer and Goodrich to the Skil lute village to invite the Indians to trade horses with us. I also sent Frazer and Shabono to the Che-luck-kit-ti-quar village for the same reason. A number of Indians from both nations came, but we spent most of the day without trading a single horse. The Great Chief of the Skillutes also came with Drewyer. He was lame and couldn't walk, but he told me that if I went to his town, his people would trade with me. I set out late and arrived at sunset, informing the natives that I would trade with them in the morning. He gave me some onions to eat that had been sweated. Peter played the violin while the men danced. I saw about 100 stacks of fish. Many nations visit this place for trade. I noted the descriptions of the houses, their clothing, habits, and so on. I saw a large number of horses.
[Clark, April 16, 1806]
Wednesday April 16th 1806 about 8 oClock this morning I passed the river with the two interpreters, and nine men in order to trade with the nativs for their horses, for which purpose I took with me a good part of our Stock of merchindize. Capt L. Sent out the hunters and Set Several men at work makeing pack Saddles. twelve horses will be Sufficient to trans port our baggage and Some pounded fish with our dried Elk. which we intend takeing with us as a reserved Store for the Plains & rocky mountains. I formed a Camp on the N. Side and Sent Drewyer & Goodrich to the Skillute Village, and Shabono & Frazer down to the Chilluckkitequaw Villages with derections to inform the nativs that I had Crossed the river for the purpose of purchaseing horses, and if they had horses to Sell us to bring them to my Camp. Great numbers of Indians came from both Villages and delayed the greater part of the day without tradeing a Single horse. Drewyer returned with the principal Chief of the Skillutes who was lame and Could not walk. after his arival Some horses were offered for Sale, but they asked nearly half the merchindize I had with me for one horse. this price I could not think of giveing. the Chief informed me if I would go to his town with him, his people would Sell me horses. I therefore Concluded to accompany him to his Village 7 miles distant. we Set out and arrived at the Village at Sunset. after Some Serimony I entered the house of the Chief. I then informed them that I would trade with them for their horses in the morning for which I would give for each horse the articles which I had offered yestered. The Chief Set before me a large platter of Onions which had been Sweeted. I gave a part of those onions to all my party and we all eate of them, in this State the root is very Sweet and the tops tender. the nativs requested the party to dance which they very readily consented and Peter Cruzat played on the Violin and the men danced Several dances & retired to rest in the houses of the 1st and Second Cheif.
Wednesday, April 16th, 1806, around 8 o'clock this morning, I crossed the river with two interpreters and nine men to trade with the natives for their horses. For this purpose, I brought a good amount of our stock of merchandise. Captain L. sent out the hunters and had several men start making pack saddles. Twelve horses will be enough to transport our baggage and some pounded fish along with our dried elk, which we plan to take with us as a reserve for the Plains and Rocky Mountains. I set up camp on the north side and sent Drewyer and Goodrich to the Skillute Village, while Shabono and Frazer headed to the Chilluckkitequaw Villages with instructions to inform the natives that I had crossed the river to buy horses, and if they had any to sell to bring them to my camp. Many Indians came from both villages and spent most of the day without trading a single horse. Drewyer returned with the principal chief of the Skillutes, who was lame and couldn't walk. After his arrival, some horses were offered for sale, but they asked for nearly half the merchandise I had with me for one horse. I couldn't consider paying that price. The chief let me know that if I accompanied him to his town, his people would sell me horses. I decided to go with him to his village, seven miles away. We set out and arrived at the village at sunset. After some ceremony, I entered the chief's house. I then told them that I would trade for their horses in the morning, for which I would offer the same items I had proposed yesterday. The chief set before me a large platter of sweetened onions. I shared some of those onions with my party, and we all enjoyed them; in this state, the root is very sweet, and the tops are tender. The natives asked the party to dance, which they readily agreed to, and Peter Cruzat played the violin while the men danced several dances and then went to rest in the houses of the first and second chief.
this village is moved about 300 yards below the Spot it Stood last fall at the time we passed down. they were all above grown and built in the Same form of those below already discribed. We observed maney stacks of fish remaining untouched on either Side of the river. The Inhabitents of this Village ware the robe of deer Elk Goat &c. and most of the men ware Legins and mockersons and Shirts highly ornimented with Porcupine quills & beeds. the women were the Truss most Commonly. tho Some of them have long Shirts all of those articles they precure from other nations who visit them for the purpose of exchangeing those articles for their pounded fish of which they prepare great quantities. This is the Great Mart of all this Country. ten different tribes who reside on Taptate and Catteract River visit those people for the purpose of purchaseing their fish, and the Indians on the Columbia and Lewis's river quite to the Chopunnish Nation Visit them for the purpose of tradeing horses buffalow robes for beeds, and Such articles as they have not. The Skillutes precure the most of their Cloth knivs axes & beeds from the Indians from the North of them who trade with white people who come into the inlets to the North at no great distance from the Tapteet. their horses of which I saw great numbers, they precure from the Indians who reside on the banks of the Columbia above, and what fiew they take from the To war ne hi ooks or Snake Indians. I smoked with all the principal men of this nation in the house of their great Cheif and lay my Self down on a Mat to Sleep but was prevented by the mice and vermin with which this house abounded and which was very troublesom to me.
This village has moved about 300 yards downstream from where it was last fall when we passed through. They have all grown and built in a similar style to those described below. We noticed many stacks of fish left untouched on either side of the river. The inhabitants of this village wore robes made of deer, elk, goat, etc., and most of the men wore leggings, moccasins, and shirts highly decorated with porcupine quills and beads. The women typically wore a wrap, though some had long shirts; all of these items are acquired from other nations who visit them to trade for their pounded fish, which they prepare in large quantities. This is a major trading hub for the entire region. Ten different tribes from the Taptate and Catteract Rivers come to these people to purchase their fish, and the Indians from the Columbia and Lewis Rivers all the way to the Chopunnish Nation visit them for the purpose of trading horses, buffalo robes for beads, and other items they need. The Skillutes obtain most of their cloth, knives, axes, and beads from the Indians north of them who trade with white people coming into the inlets not far from the Tapteet. They get their horses, of which I saw many, from the Indians living along the banks of the Columbia River, and a few from the To war ne hi ooks or Snake Indians. I smoked with all the principal men of this nation in the house of their great chief and lay down on a mat to sleep but was disturbed by the mice and vermin that infested the house, which was quite troublesome for me.
[Lewis, April 17, 1806]
Thursday April 17th 1806. This morning early I sent out the hunters, and set several additional hands about the packsaddles. I find that the sturgeon is not taken by any of the natives above the Columbean vally. the inhabitants of the rapids at this time take a few of the white salmon trout and considerable quantities of a small indifferent mullet on which they principally subsist. I have seen none except dryed fish of the last season in the possession of the people above that place, they subsist on roots principally with some dryed and pounded fish. the salmon not having made their appearance proves a serious inconvenience to us. but few of the natives visited my camp today and those only remained a few hours. even at this place which is merely on the border of the plains of Columbia the climate seems to have changed the air feels dryer and more pure. the earth is dry and seems as if there had been no rain for a week or ten days. the plain is covered with a rich virdure of grass and herbs from four to nine inches high and exhibits a beautiful) seen particularly pleasing after having been so long imprisoned in mountains and those almost impenetrably thick forrests of the seacoast. Joseph Feilds brought me today three eggs of the party coloured corvus, they are about the size and shape of those of the pigeon. they are bluish white much freckled with dark redish brown irregular spots, in short it is reather a mixture of those colours in which the redish brown predominates, particularly towards the larger end.—This evening Willard and Cruzatte returned from Capt. Clark and brought me a note in which Capt. C. informed me that he had sill been unsuccessful) having not obtained a single horse as yet from the natives and the state of our stores are so low that I begin to fear we shall not be enabled to obtain as many horses at this place as will convey our baggage and unless we do obtain a sufficient number for that purpose we shall not hasten our progress as a part of our baggage must still be conveyed by water. Capt. C. informed me that he should proceed as far as the Eneshur village today and would return tomorrow and join me at the Skillute village to which place I mean to proceed with the party tomorrow. I dispatched Shannon with a note to Capt. Clark in which I requested him to double the price we have heretofore offered for horses and if possible obtain as many as five, by this means we shall be enabled to proceed immediately with our small canoes and those horses to the villages in the neighbourhood of the mussel shell rapid where horses are more abundant and cheaper; with the remainder of our merchandize in addition to the canoes we can no doubt obtain as many horses there as will answer our purposes. delay in the villages at the narrows and falls will be expensive to us inasmuch as we will be compelled to purchase both fuel and food of the indians, and might the better enable them to execute any hostile desighn should they meditate any against us.—all the hunters returned in the evening. Sheilds had killed one deer which he brought with him. the packsaddles were completed this evening. I had some Elkskins put in the water today make harnes for the packhorses but shall not cut them untill I know the number we can obtain.—there is a species of hiasinth in these plains the bulb of which the natives eat either boiled baked or dryed in the sun. this bulb is white, not entirely solid, and of a flat form; the bulb of the present year overlays, or crowns that of the last, and seems to be pressed close to it, the old bulb is withered much thiner equally wide with that of the present year and sends fourth from it's sides a number of small radicles.—this hiasinth is of a pale blue colour and is a very pretty flower. I preserved a specemine of it.
Thursday, April 17th, 1806. This morning, I sent out the hunters and had several more people help with the packsaddles. I’ve found that the natives above the Columbia Valley aren’t catching any sturgeon. Right now, the people at the rapids are catching a few white salmon trout and quite a bit of a small, average-quality mullet, which they mostly rely on for food. I haven’t seen any other fish, except for some dried ones from last season, among the people above that area; they mainly survive on roots along with some dried and pounded fish. The lack of salmon is proving to be a major inconvenience for us. Only a few natives visited my camp today, and they stayed for just a couple of hours. Even here, on the edge of the Columbia plains, the climate seems different; the air feels drier and fresher. The ground is dry, like there hasn’t been rain for a week or ten days. The plain is covered with lush greenery of grass and herbs, ranging from four to nine inches high, and it looks beautiful—especially nice after being stuck in the mountains and those almost impenetrable thick forests of the coastline for so long. Joseph Fields brought me three eggs today from the party-colored corvus; they’re about the size and shape of pigeon eggs. They are bluish-white, heavily freckled with dark reddish-brown irregular spots; in short, they’re a mix of those colors, with the reddish-brown dominating, especially at the larger end. This evening, Willard and Cruzatte returned from Captain Clark and brought me a note from Captain C., in which he informed me that he’s still been unsuccessful in obtaining a single horse from the natives. Our supplies are so low that I’m starting to worry we won’t be able to get enough horses here to carry our luggage, and if we can’t get enough for that, we won’t be able to speed up our progress, since part of our luggage still has to be transported by water. Captain C. mentioned he would head to the Eneshur village today and would return tomorrow to meet me at the Skillute village, which I plan to reach with the group tomorrow. I sent a note with Shannon to Captain Clark, asking him to double the price we’ve previously offered for horses and, if possible, to get as many as five. This way, we can move quickly with our small canoes and the horses to the villages near the mussel shell rapid, where horses are more plentiful and cheaper; with the rest of our merchandise, plus the canoes, we should be able to find enough horses there to meet our needs. Delays in the villages at the narrows and falls will be costly since we’ll have to buy both fuel and food from the Indians, and it could also make it easier for them to plan any hostile actions against us. All the hunters returned in the evening. Shields had killed one deer, which he brought back with him. The packsaddles were finished this evening. I put some elk skins in the water today to make harnesses for the packhorses, but I won’t cut them until I know what number of horses we can get. There is a type of hyacinth in these plains, the bulbs of which the natives eat boiled, baked, or dried in the sun. This bulb is white, not completely solid, and has a flat shape; this year’s bulb grows over or crowns the last one and seems to be pressed close against it. The old bulb is withered, much thinner, and the same width as this year’s, sending out several small roots from its sides. This hyacinth is a pale blue color and is a very pretty flower. I preserved a specimen of it.
[Clark, April 17, 1806]
April 17th 1806 I rose early and took a position near to the village and exposed the artiles I had for Sale Great numbers of Indians Came from different derections, Some from below Some above and others across the Countrey from the Tapteet river See description of the Nations &c.—I obtained a Sketch of the Columbia as also Clarks river. See sketch I made a bargin with the Chief who has more horses than all the village besides for 2 horses. Soon after he Canseled his bargin, and we again bargined for 3 horses, they were brought forward, and only one fit for Service, the others had Such intolerable backs as to render them entirely unfit for Service. as I would not take the 3 he would not Sell the good one to me, and we were off the bargin. I then packed up and was about Setting out for the Falls when one Indian Sold me 2 horses and one other one horse, and Some others Said they wished to trade which caused me to conclude to delay here one other night. Maney of the natives from above Come and Said they would trade, but asked a higher price than I thought I could give or reather more than this nation asked.—Great numbers of Men.—I hed to purchase 3 dogs for the men to eate & Some Shap-per-lell. I Sent Crusat, Wiser, Willard and McNeal back to Capt Lewis informing him of my ill Suck'sess, and adviseing him to proceed on to this place as Soon as possible, and my intention of proceededing on to the falls to purchase horses if possible Several Indians arived late this evening. Capt. Lewis Sent me a note by Shannon informing me that he would Set early on tomorrow morning early &c. &c. I sleped in house of the 2d Chief and they had not any thing except fish to eate and no wood for fire. those people have a number of buffalow robes. They have great number of Skimming nets
April 17th, 1806: I got up early and set up near the village to sell my goods. A large number of Indians came from different directions—some from below, some from above, and others from across the country near the Tapteet River. See description of the Nations, etc.—I managed to get a sketch of the Columbia and Clark's River. See the sketch. I made a deal with the chief, who has more horses than the entire village, for two horses. Soon after, he canceled our deal, and we negotiated for three horses instead. They were brought forward, but only one was fit for use; the others had such terrible backs that they were completely unfit for service. Since I wouldn’t take the three, he refused to sell me the good one, and our negotiation fell through. I then packed up and was about to set out for the Falls when one Indian sold me two horses, and another sold me one horse. Some others expressed a desire to trade, which made me decide to stay here for one more night. Many of the people from upstream came and said they would trade but asked for a higher price than I thought I could pay—rather more than this tribe asked. There were a lot of men. I ended up buying three dogs for the men to eat and some Shap-per-lell. I sent Crusat, Wiser, Willard, and McNeal back to Captain Lewis to inform him of my lack of success and to advise him to move on to this place as soon as possible, as I intended to continue on to the Falls to try to buy horses if I could. Several Indians arrived late this evening. Captain Lewis sent me a note through Shannon letting me know he would set out early tomorrow morning. I slept in the house of the second chief, but they only had fish to eat and no wood for a fire. These people have a number of buffalo robes, and they have many skimming nets.
[Clark, April 17, 1806]
Thursday 17th of April 1806 I rose early after bad nights rest, and took my merchindize to a rock which afforded an elegable Situation for my purpose, and at a Short distance from the houses, and divided the articles of merchindize into parsels of Such articles as I thought best Calculated to pleas the Indians, and in each parcel I put as many articles as we could afford to give, and thus exposed them to view, informing the Indians that each parcel was intended for a horse. they tanterlised me the greater part of the day, Saying that they had Sent out for their horses and would trade as Soon as they Came. Several parcels of merchindize was laid by for which they told me they would bring horses. I made a bargin with the Chief for 2 horses, about an hour after he canseled the bargin and we again bargained for 3 horses which were brought foward, only one of the 3 could be possibly used the other two had Such intolerable backs as to render them entirely unfit for Service. I refused to take two of them which displeased him and he refused to part with the 3rd. I then packed up the articles and was about Setting out for the Village above when a man Came and Sold me two horses, and another man Sold me one horse, and Several others informed me that they would trade with me if I would Continue untill their horses could be drove up. this induced me to Continue at this Village another day. Maney of the nativs from different villages on the Columbia above offered to trade, but asked Such things as we had not and double as much of the articles which I had as we could afford to give. this was a very unfavourable circumstance as my dependance for precureing a Sufficiency of horses rested on the Suckcess above where I had reasons to believe there were a greater abundance of those animals, and was in hopes of getting them on better terms. I purchased 3 dogs for the party with me to eate and Some Chap-pa-lell for my Self. before precureing the 3 horses I dispatched Crusat, Willard & McNeal and Peter Wiser to Capt Lewis at the Rock fort Camp with a note informing him of my ill Suckcess in precureing horses, and advised him to proceed on to this place as Soon as possible. that I would in the mean time proceed on to the Enesher Nation above the Great falls and try to purchase Some horses of that people. Soon after I had dispatched this party the Chief of the Enesher's and 15 or 20 of his people visited me and appeared to be anxious to See the articles I offered for the horses. Several of them agreeed to let me have horses if I would add Sundery articles to those I offered which I agreeed to, and they lay'd those bundles by and informed me they would deliver me the horses in the morning. I proposed going with them to their Town. the Chief informed me that their horses were all in the plains with their womin gathering roots. they would Send out and bring the horses to this place tomorrow. this entiligence was flattering, tho I doubted the Sincerity of those people who had Several times disapointed me in a Similar way. however I deturmined to Continue untill tomorrow. in the mean time industously employd. our Selves with the great multitude of indians of differant Nations about us trying to purchase horses. Shabono purchased a verry fine Mare for which he gave Hurmen, Elks Teeth, a belt and Some other articles of no great value. no other purchase was made in the Course of this day. in the evening I recved a note from Capt L—by Shannon informing me that he Should Set out early on tomorrow morning and Should proceed up to the bason 2 miles below the Skillute Village. and adviseing me to give double the prices which we had first agreed on for each horse. I observe at every house Scooping Nets with which they take the Salmon.
Thursday, April 17, 1806, I got up early after a rough night’s sleep and took my merchandise to a spot on a rock that offered a great view for my purpose, not too far from the houses. I divided the merchandise into parcels of items that I thought would most appeal to the Indians and added as many items to each parcel as we could afford to give away, then laid them out for display, telling the Indians that each parcel was meant for a horse. They teased me most of the day, saying they had sent for their horses and would trade as soon as they arrived. Several parcels of merchandise were set aside for which they promised to bring horses. I made a deal with the Chief for two horses, but about an hour later he canceled the deal, and we bargained again for three horses. When they were brought out, only one of the three was usable; the other two had such terrible backs that they were completely unfit for riding. I refused to take the two, which upset him, and then he wouldn't let go of the third one. I packed up the items and was about to head to the village upstream when a man came and sold me two horses, and another man sold me one horse. Several others told me they would trade if I stayed until their horses could be rounded up. This made me decide to stay at this village for another day. Many natives from different villages upstream on the Columbia offered to trade but asked for items we didn’t have and wanted double what we could afford to offer for the articles I had. This was a very unfavorable situation since my hope of getting enough horses depended on success upstream, where I believed there were more of those animals and I was hoping to get them for better prices. I bought three dogs for the group with me to eat and some chap-pah-lell for myself. Before getting the three horses, I sent Crusat, Willard, McNeal, and Peter Wiser to Captain Lewis at the Rock Fort Camp with a note explaining my lack of success in getting horses and advising him to come to my location as soon as possible. In the meantime, I planned to head to the Enesher Nation above the Great Falls to try to buy some horses from them. Shortly after sending this group off, the Chief of the Eneshers and about 15 or 20 of his people came to see me and seemed eager to look at the items I was offering for the horses. Several of them agreed to give me horses if I added various items to what I was already offering, which I agreed to. They set those bundles aside and told me they would deliver the horses to me in the morning. I suggested going with them to their town, but the Chief said their horses were all out in the plains with their women gathering roots, but they would send out and bring the horses to this place tomorrow. This news was encouraging, although I doubted the sincerity of these people who had disappointed me several times in a similar fashion. Still, I decided to stay until tomorrow. In the meantime, we busily engaged with the large group of Indians of different nations around us, trying to purchase horses. Shabono bought a very fine mare for which he traded some ermine, elk teeth, a belt, and a few other items that weren’t worth much. No other purchases were made throughout the day. In the evening, I received a note from Captain L— via Shannon, informing me that he planned to set out early the next morning and would proceed to the basin two miles below Skillute Village, advising me to offer double the prices we first agreed upon for each horse. I noticed at every house, they had scooping nets for catching salmon.
I was envited into the house of the 2nd Chief where Concluded to Sleep. this man was pore nothing to eat but dried fish, and no wood to burn. altho the night was Cold they Could not rase as much wood as would make a fire
I was invited into the house of the 2nd Chief where I decided to sleep. This man was poor, with nothing to eat but dried fish, and no wood to burn. Although the night was cold, they couldn't gather enough wood to make a fire.
[Lewis, April 18, 1806]
Friday April 18th 1806. Late last evening we were visited by the principal cheif of Chilluckkittaquaws and 12 of his nation they remained with us untill 9 OC. when they all departed except the Cheif and two others who slept at my feet. we loaded our vessels and set out after an early breakfast this morning. we gave the indians a passage to the N. shore on which they reside and pursued our rout to the foot of the first rapid at the distance of 4 ms. here we found it necessary to unload the perogues and canoes and make a portage of 70 paces over a rock; we then drew our vessels up by a cord and the assistance of setingpoles. from hence we proceeded to the bason below the long narrows 5 ms. further and landed on the Lard. side at 1/2 after 3. the Cheif when he left me this morning promised to bring some horses to barter with me at the bason.- the long narrows are much more formidable than they were when we decended them last fall there would be no possibility of passind either up or down them in any vessel.—after unloading the canoes and arranging the camp I walked up to the Skillute Village and jouined Capt. he had procured four horses only for which a high price had been given, at least more than double that which we had formerly given for those which we purchased from the Shoshonees and the first band of Flatheads. they have a great abundance of horses but will not dispose of them. we determined to make the portage to the head of the long narrows with our baggage and five small canoes. the 2 perogues we could take no further and therefore cut them up for fuel. in the evening Capt. C. and myself returned to the camp at the bason and left Drewyer and three others with the merchandize at the village, three parsels of which had been laid by at the request of individuals who promised to give us horses for them in the morning.—I shot my airgun in the presents of the natives at the village which excited great astonishment.
Friday, April 18th, 1806. Late last night, we were visited by the chief of Chilluckkittaquaws and 12 members of his tribe. They stayed with us until 9 AM, when they all left except for the chief and two others who spent the night at my feet. We loaded our boats and set out after an early breakfast this morning. We gave the Native Americans a ride to the north shore where they live, and continued our route to the base of the first rapid, which was 4 miles away. Here, we found it necessary to unload the perogues and canoes and portage them 70 paces over a rock. We then pulled our boats up with a rope and the help of setting poles. From there, we made our way to the basin below the long narrows, another 5 miles down the river, and landed on the left side at 3:30 PM. The chief promised to bring some horses to trade with me at the basin when he left this morning. The long narrows are much more challenging than when we came down them last fall; there’s no way to get through them in any vessel either up or down. After unloading the canoes and setting up camp, I walked up to the Skillute Village and joined Capt. He had managed to get four horses, but we paid a high price for them, more than double what we previously paid for those from the Shoshonees and the first band of Flatheads. They have plenty of horses but won’t sell them. We decided to portage our luggage and five small canoes to the head of the long narrows. We could take no further use of the two perogues, so we cut them up for firewood. In the evening, Capt. C. and I returned to the camp at the basin and left Drewyer and three others with the merchandise at the village, three parcels of which had been set aside at the request of individuals who promised to trade us horses for them in the morning. I shot my airgun in front of the natives at the village, which caused great astonishment.
[Clark, April 18, 1806]
April 18th 1806 early this morning I was awoke by a Indian from the nieghbourhood of our horses, he had he arived here yesterday & this morning found a Small bag of powder and ball which had been left when we exposed our goods yesterday and brought it to me. I had a fire made out and exposed the articles &c. having increased the articles for each horse, and Sent out 2 men to hunt the horses bought yesterday. after Colecting them Sent Shabono and Frazer with the 4 I had purchased down to Capt Lewis. and was tanterlised with the expectation of purchaseing more imediately. Great numbers of the Indians from the falls and both above and below. none of them appeared anxious to part with their horses but told me that Several were Comeing from the plains about 1 or 2 P M. and laid by 2 parcels of merchindize and told me that they had Sent for their horses. among other Tribes was those of the Skad-datts who bantered the Skillutes to play with them at a Singular Kind of game which was Soon Made up and 9 of aside Sat down they were Some time making up their bets of Beeds, brass thimbles or tubes robes &c. &c. when the bets were all made up the nine on each Side took opposides faceing each other at the distance of about 12 feet. in front of each party was placed a long pole on which they Struck with a Stick and Sung. they made use of 2 Small pices of bone in this form and Size a bone was given to 2 men of the Same party who changed it from hand to hand with great dexterity one hand above the other looking down, and when he was ready for the opposit party to guess he Seperated his hands Swinging them around the breast looking at the opposit party who waved their hand to the Side the bone was in. if the opposit party guessed the hand of each man the bone was given to them. if neither it was nothing. if they guessed one which they might single out if they pleased they recived his bone, and lost on the other as they hapened to fail in guessing the also lose one if they fail guessing both The game is plaid at different numbers & each party has 5 sticks. Several of those games were played to day in which the Skillute won, indeed the won all the beeds and Som robes of the Skad datts which they _____ one other game which they also played _____ 2 by men with 4 Sticks. 2 black & 2 White under a kind of hat made of bark. as this is a very intrecut game I cannot describe it: the one who holds the Sticks places them in different positions, and the opposit party, guess the position of the black Sticks by a motion of either one or both of the hands. each man has 4 Sticks. this as also the other is accompanied with a kind of Song. This hat is about 12 inches diamuter and the Sticks about 5 inches long—-at 3 P M Sergt Ordway arived with 3 men from Capt Lewis with elk skins and Some fiew articles Such as a Coat & robes. I had 3 dogs purchased, Soon after Capt. Lewis Came up with J. Fields he had assended the river with much dificuelty to the bason 2 Miles below. I left Drewyer, Warner, Shannon & Goodrich with the articles and went down with Capt Lewis to the bason, Cut up 2 of our canoes for fire wood no horses more maney nations resort here for trade
April 18th, 1806. Early this morning, I was woken up by an Indian from the area where our horses were. He had arrived here yesterday and brought me a small bag of powder and ball that had been left behind when we exposed our goods yesterday. I made a fire and laid out the items, increasing the supplies for each horse, and sent out two men to hunt for the horses bought yesterday. After collecting them, I sent Shabono and Frazer with the four horses I had purchased down to Captain Lewis and was teased with the expectation of buying more immediately. Many Indians from the falls, both upstream and downstream, gathered here. None of them seemed eager to part with their horses, but they told me that several were coming from the plains around 1 or 2 PM. They dropped off two bundles of merchandise and mentioned they had sent for their horses. Among the tribes were the Skad-datts, who invited the Skillutes to play a unique game with them. It was soon set up, and nine on each side sat down, spending some time placing their bets of beads, brass thimbles, tubes, and robes. Once all bets were made, the two teams faced each other about 12 feet apart. In front of each group, a long pole was placed, which they struck with a stick while singing. They used two small pieces of bone. A bone was given to two men from the same team, who switched it from hand to hand with great skill, one hand over the other while looking down. When ready for the opposing team to guess, he separated his hands, swinging them around his chest while watching the other side, who would wave their hands towards the hand that held the bone. If the other team guessed correctly which hand the bone was in, it was given to them. If neither guessed correctly, it was nothing. If they guessed one (which they could choose), they received his bone and lost the other, and if they failed to guess both, they lost one. The game is played with various numbers, and each team has five sticks. Several games were played today, where the Skillutes won all the beads and some robes from the Skad-datts. They also played another game involving two men with four sticks—two black and two white—under a kind of hat made of bark. This is a complex game that I can't describe fully: the person holding the sticks places them in different positions, and the opposing team guesses the position of the black sticks by moving either one or both hands. Each man has four sticks. Both this game and the other are accompanied by a type of song. The hat is about 12 inches in diameter, and the sticks are around 5 inches long. At 3 PM, Sergeant Ordway arrived with three men from Captain Lewis, bringing elk skins and a few items like a coat and some robes. I had three dogs purchased. Soon after, Captain Lewis arrived with J. Fields; he had ascended the river with much difficulty to the basin two miles below. I left Drewyer, Warner, Shannon, and Goodrich with the supplies and went down with Captain Lewis to the basin, cutting up two of our canoes for firewood. There are many nations gathering here for trade.
[Clark, April 18, 1806]
Friday 18th April 1806 Early this Morning I was awoke by an indian man of the Chopunnish Nation who informed me that he lived in the neighbourhood of our horses. this man delivered me a bag of powder and ball which he had picked up this morning at the place the goods were exposed yesterday I had a fire made of Some poles purchased of the nativs at a Short distance from the houses and the articles exposed as yesterday. Collected the 4 horses purchased yesterday and Sent Frazier and Shabono with them to the bason where I expected they would meet Cap L-s and Commence the portage of the baggage on those horses. about 10 A.M. the Indians Came down from the Eneesher Villages and I expected would take the articles which they had laid by yesterday. but to my estonishment not one would make the exchange to day-. two other parcels of good were laid by and the horses promised at 2 P.M. I payed but little attention to this bargain however Suffered the bundles to lye. I dressed the Sores of the principal Chief gave Some Small things to his children and promised the Chief Some Medicine for to Cure his Sores. his wife who I found to be a Sulky Bitch and was Somewhat efflicted with pains in her back. this I thought a good oppertunity to get her on my Side giveing here Something for her back. I rubed a little Camphere on her temples and back, and applyed worm flannel to her back which She thought had nearly restored her to her former feelings. this I thought a favourable time to trade with the Chief who had more horses than all the nation besides. I accordingly made him an offer which he excepted and Sold me two horses. Great numbers of Indians from defferent derections visited me at this place to day, none of them appeared willing to part with their horses, but told me that Several were Comeing from the plains this evening. among other Nations who visit this place for the purpose of trade is the Skad-datt's. those people bantered the Skillutes to play at a Singular kind of game. in the Course of the day the Skillutes won all their beeds Skins arrows &c. This game was Composed of 9 men on a Side. they Set down opposit to each other at the distance of about 10 feet. in front of each party a long pole was placed on which they Struck with a Small Stick to the time of their Songs. after the bets were made up which was nearly half an hour after they Set down, two round bones was producd about the Size of a mans little finger or Something Smaller and 21/4 inches in length. which they held in their hand Changeing it from one hand to the other with great dexterity. 2 men on the Same Side performed this part, and when they had the bone in the hand they wished, they looked at their advosarys Swinging arms around their Sholders for their advosary Guess which they pirformed by the motion the hand either to the right or left. if the opposit party guessed the hand of both of the men who had the bone, the bones were given to them. if neither the bones was retained and nothing Counted. if they guessed one and not the other, one bone was dilivered up and the party possessing the other bone Counted one. and one for every time the advosary miss guessed untill they guessed the hand in which the bone was in-in this game each party has 5 Sticks. and one Side wins all the Sticks, once twice or thrice as the game may be Set. I observed another game which those people also play and is played by 2 persons with 4 Sticks about the Size of a mans finger and about 7 inches in length. two of those Sticks are black and the other 2 White and Something larger than the black ones. those Sticks they place in defferent positions which they perform under a kind of trencher made of bark round and about 14 inches diamieter. this is a very intricate game and I cannot Sufficiently understand to discribe it. the man who is in possession of the Sticks &c places them in defferent positions, and the opposit party tels the position of the black Sticks by a motion of either or both of his hands &c. this game is Counted in the Same way as the one before mentioned. all their games are accompanied with Songs and time. at 3 P. M Sergt. Ordway & three men arived from Cap Lewis they brought with them Several Elk Skins, two of my Coats and 4 robes of the party to add to the Stores I had with me for the purchase of horses. Sgt. O. informed me that Cap L. had arived with all the Canoes into the bason 2 miles below and wished Some dogs to eate. I had 3 dogs purchased and Sent down. at 5 P.M. Capt. Lewis Came up. he informed me that he had the river to the bason with much difecuelty and danger, haveing made one portage. as I had not Slept but very little for the two nights past on account of mice & virmen with which those indian houses abounded, and haveing no blanket with me, and the means of keeping a fire Sufficent to keep me worm out was too Expensive I deturmined to proceed with Capt L. down to Camp at the bason. I left the Articles of Merchendize &c. with Drewyer, Werner, Shannon & Goodrich untill the morning—-at the bason we Cut up two of our Canoes for fire wood verry much to the Sagreen of the nativs not with standing they would give us nothing for them. In my absence Several Inds. visited Capt. Lewis at his camp among others was the great Cheif of the Chilluckkitquaw who Continued with him untill he left Rock fort Camp. Capt L. had 12 pack Saddles Completed and Strings prepared of the Elk skins for Lashing the loads he also kept out all the hunters who killed just deer enough for the party with him to Subsist on. The Cheif who had Visited Capt Lewis promised him that he would bring Some horses to the bason and trade with him. but he was not as good as his word. Capt Lewis gave a large Kittle for a horse which was offered to him at the bason this evening.
Friday, April 18, 1806 Early this morning, I was awakened by an Indian man from the Chopunnish Nation who told me that he lived near our horses. This man gave me a bag of powder and balls that he had picked up this morning at the place where the goods were displayed yesterday. I had a fire made from some poles purchased from the natives a short distance from the houses and the articles displayed as before. I collected the four horses bought yesterday and sent Frazier and Shabono with them to the basin where I expected they would meet Cap L. and begin the portage of the baggage on those horses. Around 10 A.M., the Indians came down from the Eneesher Villages, and I expected they would take the items they had set aside yesterday. But to my surprise, not one was willing to make the exchange today. Two other parcels of goods were set aside, and the horses promised at 2 P.M. I paid little attention to this deal, however, and let the bundles lie. I attended to the sores of the principal chief, gave some small items to his children, and promised the chief some medicine to cure his sores. His wife, who I found to be quite sulky, was somewhat afflicted with pains in her back. I thought this was a good opportunity to win her over by giving her something for her back. I rubbed a little camphor on her temples and back, and applied warm flannel, which she believed nearly restored her to her former state. This seemed like a favorable time to trade with the chief, who had more horses than anyone else in the nation. I made him an offer, which he accepted, and sold me two horses. Many Indians from different directions visited me here today; none seemed willing to part with their horses, but they told me that several were coming from the plains this evening. Among other tribes that visit this place for trade are the Skad-datt's. These people challenged the Skillutes to play a unique game. Throughout the day, the Skillutes won all their beads, skins, arrows, etc. This game involved nine men on each side. They sat opposite each other about ten feet apart. In front of each team, a long pole was placed on which they struck with a small stick to the rhythm of their songs. After the bets were made up—nearly half an hour after they sat down—two round bones, about the size of a man's little finger and roughly 2¼ inches long, were produced. They held these in their hand, switching them deftly between hands. Two men on the same side performed this part, and when they had the bone in the hand they wanted, they looked at their opponents while swinging their arms around their shoulders to signal which hand they used, either to the right or left. If the opposing team guessed both players' hands correctly, the bones were given to them. If not, the bones were retained, and nothing was counted. If they guessed one correctly and not the other, one bone was turned over, and the team with the remaining bone counted one point, adding one for every incorrect guess by the opponents until they guessed the correct hand holding the bone. In this game, each side has five sticks, and one side wins all the sticks, sometimes once, twice, or thrice, depending on the game setup. I also observed another game played by two people using four sticks about the size of a man's finger and around seven inches long. Two of the sticks are black, and the other two are white and slightly larger than the black ones. These sticks are placed in various positions under a kind of round trencher made of bark, about 14 inches in diameter. This is a very intricate game that I can't fully describe. The person holding the sticks places them in different positions, while the opposing player guesses the position of the black sticks based on the movements of either or both of their hands. This game is scored the same way as the previous one. All their games include songs and rhythm. At 3 P.M., Sergt. Ordway and three men arrived from Cap Lewis. They brought several elk skins, two of my coats, and four robes for the party to add to the supplies I had with me for purchasing horses. Sgt. Ordway informed me that Cap Lewis had arrived with all the canoes in the basin two miles below and requested some dogs to eat. I had three dogs purchased and sent down. At 5 P.M., Capt. Lewis came up. He informed me that he had navigated the river to the basin with much difficulty and danger after making one portage. Since I hadn’t slept much for the past two nights due to mice and vermin infesting those Indian houses, and having no blanket with me, and keeping a fire to stay warm was too costly, I decided to go with Capt. Lewis down to camp at the basin. I left the merchandise with Drewyer, Werner, Shannon, and Goodrich until the morning. At the basin, we cut up two of our canoes for firewood, much to the dismay of the natives, even though they wouldn’t trade us anything for them. While I was gone, several Indians visited Capt. Lewis at his camp, including the great chief of the Chilluckkitquaw, who stayed with him until he left Rock Fort Camp. Capt. Lewis had 12 pack saddles completed and strings prepared from the elk skins for lashing loads. He also kept all the hunters out who managed to bring back just enough deer for his party to survive on. The chief who visited Capt. Lewis promised he would bring some horses to the basin and trade with him, but he did not keep his word. Capt. Lewis gave a large kettle for a horse offered to him at the basin this evening.
[Lewis, April 19, 1806]
Saturday Aprl. 19th 1806. This morning early we had our small canoes drawn out, and employed all hands in transporting our baggage on their backs and by means of the four pack horses, over the portage. This labour we had accomplished by 3 P.M. and established our camp a little above the present Skil-lute village which has been removed a few hundred yards lower down the river than when we passed them last fall and like others below have the floors of their summer dwellings on the surface of the earth instead of those cellars in which they resided when we passed them. there was great joy with the natives last night in consequence of the arrival of the salmon; one of those fish was caught; this was the harbinger of good news to them. they informed us that these fish would arrive in great quantities in the course of about 5 days. this fish was dressed and being divided into small peices was given to each child in the village. this custom is founded in a supersticious opinon that it will hasten the arrival of the salmon. with much difficulty we obtained four other horses from the Indians today, we wer obliged to dispence with two of our kettles in order to acquire those. we have now only one small kettle to a mess of 8 men. in the evening Capt. Clark set out with four men to the Enesher village at the grand falls in order to make a further attempt to procure horses. these people are very faithless in their contracts. they frequently receive the merchandize in exchange for their horses and after some hours insist on some additional article being given them or revoke the exchange. they have pilfered several small articles from us this evening.—I directed the horses to be hubbled & suffered to graize at a little distance from our camp under the immediate eye of the men who had them in charge. one of the men Willard was negligent in his attention to his horse and suffered it to ramble off; it was not to be found when I ordered the others to be brought up and confined to the picquits. this in addition to the other difficulties under which I laboured was truly provoking. I repremanded him more severely for this peice of negligence than had been usual with me. I had the remaining horses well secured by picquits; they were extreemly wrestless and it required the attention of the whole guard through the night to retain them notwithstanding they were bubbled and picquted. they frequently throwed themselves by the ropes by which they were confined. all except one were stone horse for the people in this neighbourhood do not understand the art of gelding them, and this is a season at which they are most vicious. many of the natives remained about our camp all night.
Saturday, April 19th, 1806. This morning, we got our small canoes out early and had everyone help carry our luggage on their backs, along with the four pack horses, over the portage. We finished this task by 3 P.M. and set up our camp just above the current Skil-lute village, which has moved a few hundred yards downriver since we passed by last fall. Like other villages downstream, their summer homes are now built on the ground instead of underground like they were when we visited. The natives were very happy last night because the salmon have arrived; one was caught, and it signaled good news for them. They told us that more salmon would come in large numbers in about five days. The fish was cooked and shared among the children in the village. This tradition is based on a superstitious belief that it will encourage more salmon to come. Today, we managed to get four more horses from the Indians, but we had to give up two of our kettles to do so. Now, we only have one small kettle for a group of eight men. In the evening, Capt. Clark took four men to the Enesher village at the grand falls to try to get more horses. These people are very unreliable in their agreements. They often accept goods in exchange for their horses and then, hours later, demand more or cancel the deal. They also stole several small items from us this evening. I ordered the horses to be hobbled and allowed to graze a short distance from our camp, keeping a close watch by the men in charge. One of the men, Willard, was careless and let his horse wander off; it was missing when I called for the others to be brought in and secured. This, along with my other challenges, was quite frustrating. I scolded him more harshly for this mistake than I usually would. I kept the remaining horses well secured with hobbles; they were extremely restless, and it took the attention of the entire guard all night to keep them calm, despite being hobbled. They often tried to break free from the ropes. All except one were stallions because the people in this area don't know how to geld them, and this is the season when they are most aggressive. Many of the natives stayed around our camp all night.
[Clark, April 19, 1806]
April 19th 1806 this morning early Some rain had the Small Canoes hauled out to dry every man Capable of Carrying a load Comencd the portage and by 5 P. M had every part of our baggage and canoes across the portage. I then took Sgt. Pryor, G. Shannon & Crusat & Labiech and went up to the falls at which place I arivd. about 8 P.M. in the Course of this day I purchased 4 horses at the town & Capt Lewis purchased one. the nativs finding that we were about to proceed on by water Sold us those fiew horses for which we were Compd. to pay them emence prices and the horses were indefferent. Several Showers of rain this day. description of those people &c narrows bad
April 19th, 1806. This morning early, it rained a bit, so we took the small canoes out to dry. Every man able to carry a load started the portage, and by 5 P.M., we had moved all our baggage and canoes across the portage. I then took Sgt. Pryor, G. Shannon, Crusat, and Labiech and went up to the falls, arriving around 8 P.M. During the day, I bought 4 horses in town, and Captain Lewis bought one. The natives, seeing that we were planning to continue on by water, sold us those few horses for which we had to pay them exorbitant prices, and the horses weren’t great. There were several showers of rain today. Description of those people and so on, narrows bad.
[Clark, April 19, 1806]
Saturday 19th April 1806. We deturmined to make the portage to the head of the long narrows with our baggage and 5 Small Canoes, the 2 large Canoes we Could take no further and therefore Cut them up for fuel. we had our Small Canoes drawn up very early and employed all hands in transporting our baggage on their backs and by means of 4 pack horses, over the portage. This labour we had accomplished by 3 P.M. and established our Camp a little above the present Skillute village which has been removed as before observed a fiew hundred yards lower down the river than when we passed it last fall. I left Capt L. at the bason and proceeded to the village early this morning with a view to recive the horses which were promised to be brought this morning for articles laid by last evining. in the Course of this day I purchased four horses at the Village, and Capt Lewis one at the bason before he left it. after the baggage was all Safely landed above the portage, all hands brought over the Canoes at 2 lodes which was accomplished by 5 P.M. as we had not a Sufficiency of horses to transport our baggage we agreed that I should proceed on to the Enesher villages at the great falls of the Columbia and if possible purchase as maney horses as would transport the baggage from that place, and rid us of the trouble and dificuelty of takeing our Canoes further. I set out with Serjt Pryor, Geo Shannon Peter Crusat & Labiech at half past 5 P.M. for the Enesher Village at which place I arrived at 8 P.M. Several Showers of rain in the after part of to day, and the S W wind very high. there was great joy with the nativs last night in consequence of the arrival of the Salmon; one of those fish was cought, this was the harbenger of good news to them. They informed us that those fish would arive in great quantities in the Course of about 5 days. this fish was dressed and being divided into Small pieces was given to each Child in the village. this Custom is founded on a Supersticious opinion that it will hasten the arrival of the Salmon.
Saturday, April 19, 1806. We decided to carry our gear and five small canoes overland to the head of the long narrows. The two large canoes couldn't go any further, so we cut them up for fuel. We had our small canoes ready early and got everyone involved in transporting our baggage on their backs and with the help of four pack horses over the portage. We finished this work by 3 PM and set up camp just above the current Skillute village, which has been moved a few hundred yards downstream from where we passed it last fall. I left Captain Lewis at the basin and headed to the village early this morning to receive the horses that were promised to be delivered today for items set aside last evening. During the day, I bought four horses in the village, and Captain Lewis got one at the basin before leaving it. After all the baggage was safely moved past the portage, everyone transported the canoes in two loads, finishing by 5 PM. Since we didn’t have enough horses to carry all our baggage, we agreed that I would head to the Enesher villages at the great falls of the Columbia and, if possible, buy as many horses as needed to transport the baggage from there, relieving us of the trouble and difficulty of taking our canoes further. I set out with Sergeant Pryor, George Shannon, Peter Crusat, and Labiech at 5:30 PM for the Enesher village, arriving at 8 PM. We had several showers of rain later in the day, with a strong southwest wind. The natives were very joyful last night because the salmon had arrived; they caught one fish, which brought them good news. They told us that these fish would arrive in great numbers in about five days. The fish was prepared and divided into small pieces, which were given to each child in the village. This custom is based on a superstitious belief that it would speed up the arrival of the salmon.
we were oblige to dispence with two of our kitties in order to acquire two of the horses purchasd. to day. we have now only one Small kittle to a mess of 8 men. These people are very fathless in Contracts; they frequently reive the merchindize in exchange for their horses and after Some hours insist on Some additional article being given them or revoke the exchange.
We had to part with two of our kittens in order to get two of the horses we bought today. Now we only have one small kettle for a group of 8 men. These people are really untrustworthy when it comes to contracts; they often take the merchandise in exchange for their horses and after a few hours insist on getting something extra or want to cancel the deal.
The long narrows are much more formadable than they were when we decended them last fall, there would be no possibility of passing either up or down them in any vessle at this time.
The long narrows are much more daunting than they were when we went down them last fall; there’s no way to pass either up or down in any vessel right now.
I entered the largest house of the Eneeshers village in which I found all the enhabitents in bead. they rose and made a light of Straw, they haveing no wood to burn. many men Collected. we Smoked and I informed them that I had come to purchase a fiew horses of them. they promused to Sell me Some in the morning.
I walked into the biggest house in the Eneeshers village, where I found all the residents inside. They got up and made a light with straw since they didn’t have any wood to burn. Many men gathered around. We smoked, and I told them I had come to buy a few horses from them. They promised to sell me some in the morning.
[Lewis, April 20, 1806]
Sunday April 20th 1806. some frost this morning. The Enesher an Skillutes are much better clad than they were last fall, there men have generally legings mockersons and large robes; many of them wear shirts of the same form with those of the Shoshone Chopunnish &c highly ornamented with porcupine quills. the dress of their women differs very little from those of the great rapids and above. their children frequently wear robes of the large grey squirrel skins, those of the men and women are principally deer skins, some wolf, elk, bighorn and buffaloe; the latter they procure from the nations who sometimes visit the Missouri. indeed a considerable poportion of their wearing apparel is purchased from their neighbours to the N. W. in exchange for pounded fish copper and beads. at present the principal village of the Eneshur is below the falls on the N. side of the river. one other village is above the falls on the S. side and another a few miles above on the N. side. the first consists of 19, the 2cd of 11, and the 3rd of 5 lodges. their houses like those of the Skillutes have their floors on the surface of the ground, but are formed of sticks and covered with mats and straw. they are large and contain usually several families each for fuel they use straw, small willows and the southern wood. they use the silk grass in manufacturing their fishing nets and bags, the bear grass and cedar bark are employed in forming a variety of articles. they are poor, dirty, proud, haughty, inhospitable, parsimonious and faithless in every rispect, nothing but our numbers I beleive prevents their attempting to murder us at this moment.
Sunday, April 20, 1806. There was some frost this morning. The Enesher and Skillutes are dressed much better than they were last fall; their men generally wear leggings, moccassins, and large robes. Many of them have shirts that are similar to those of the Shoshone, Chopunnish, etc., and are highly decorated with porcupine quills. The women's clothing is very similar to that of the Great Rapids and the areas above. Their children often wear robes made from large gray squirrel skins, while the clothing for men and women is mostly made from deer skins, and some from wolf, elk, bighorn, and buffalo. They get the latter from the nations that occasionally visit the Missouri. In fact, a significant portion of their clothing is bought from their neighbors to the northwest in exchange for pounded fish, copper, and beads. Currently, the main village of the Eneshur is below the falls on the north side of the river. There is another village above the falls on the south side, and one a few miles further up on the north side. The first village has 19 lodges, the second has 11, and the third has 5. Their houses, like those of the Skillutes, have floors on the ground and are made of sticks, covered with mats and straw. They are large and usually contain several families each. For fuel, they use straw, small willows, and wood from the south. They use silk grass to make their fishing nets and bags, and bear grass and cedar bark for various items. They are poor, dirty, proud, haughty, inhospitable, stingy, and untrustworthy in every respect. I believe only our numbers are preventing them from trying to attack us right now.
This morning I was informed that the natives had pilfered six tommahawks and a knife from the party in the course of the last night. I spoke to the cheif on this subject. he appeared angry with his people and addressed them but the property was not restored. one horse which I had purchased and paid for yesterday and which could not be found when I ordered the horses into close confinement yesterday I was now informed had been gambled away by the rascal who had sold it to me and had been taken away by a man of another nation. I therefore took the goods back from this fellow. I purchased a gun from the cheif for which I gave him 2 Elkskins. in the course of the day I obtained two other indifferent horses for which I gave an extravigant price. I found that I should get no more horses and therefore resolved to proceed tomorrow morning with those which I had and to convey the baggage in two small canoes that the horses could not carry. for this purpose I had a load made up for seven horses, the eighth Bratton was compelled to ride as he was yet unable to walk. I barted my Elkskins old irons and 2 canoes for beads. one of the canoes for which they would give us but little I had cut up for fuel. These people have yet a large quantity of dryed fish on hand yet they will not let us have any but for an exorbitant price. we purchased two dogs and some shappellel from them. I had the horses graized untill evening and then picquited and bubbled within the limits of our camp. I ordered the indians from our camp this evening and informed them that if I caught them attempting to perloin any article from us I would beat them severely. they went off in reather a bad humour and I directed the party to examine their arms and be on their guard. they stole two spoons from us in the course of the day. The Scaddals, Squan-nan-os, Shan-wah-purrs and Shallattas reside to the N. W. of these people, depend on hunting deer and Elk and trade with these people for ther pounded fish.
This morning I found out that the locals had stolen six tomahawks and a knife from our group last night. I spoke to the chief about it. He seemed angry with his people and addressed them, but the stolen items were not returned. One horse that I had bought and paid for yesterday went missing when I called for the horses to be rounded up, and I was told it had been gambled away by the guy who sold it to me and taken by someone from another tribe. So, I took my goods back from that guy. I bought a gun from the chief, giving him two elk skins in exchange. Throughout the day, I picked up two other average horses, paying a high price for them. I realized I wouldn’t be getting any more horses, so I decided to move out tomorrow morning with the ones I had and use two small canoes for the gear that the horses couldn’t carry. For this, I made up a load for seven horses, while the eighth Bratton had to ride since he couldn't walk yet. I traded my elk skins, old iron, and two canoes for beads. One of the canoes that they offered us little for, I used for firewood. These people still have a lot of dried fish, but they won't sell it to us unless we pay a crazy price. We bought two dogs and some shappellel from them. I let the horses graze until evening, then tied them up and cooked within our camp area. I told the Indians to leave our camp tonight and warned them that if I caught them stealing anything from us, I would punish them severely. They left in a rather bad mood, and I told my team to check their weapons and stay alert. They stole two spoons from us during the day. The Scaddals, Squan-nan-os, Shan-wah-purrs, and Shallattas live to the northwest of these people and rely on hunting deer and elk while trading with them for their pounded fish.
[Clark, April 20, 1806]
April 20th 1806 This morning very Cold hills covered with Snow. I Showed the nativs what I had to give for their horses and attempted to purchase them. they informed me that they would not Sell any horses to me, that their horses were at a long ways off and they would not trade them. my offer was a blue robe, Callico Shirt, a handkerchef, 5 parcels of paint a Knife, a wampom moon 4 braces of ribin, a pice of Brass and about 6 braces of yellow heeds; and to that amount for what I had I also offered my large blue blanket for one, my Coat Sword & Plume none of which Seem to entice those people to give horses if they had any. they Set in their huts which is of mats Supported on poles without fire. at night when they wish a light they burn dry Straw & Some fiew Small dry willows. they Speak defferent from those below, have but little to eate. Some roots & Dryed fish is to be found in their houses. I am half frozed at this inhospitable Village which is moved from its position above the falls to one below and Contains 19 large houses, a village is also established on the other Side imedeately above the falls. all the natives who was established above the Falls for Some distance has removed Those people are much better dressed than they were at the time we went down the river. They have all new, Deer, Elk, Ibex Goat & wolf Skin robes, their Children also the large squirel Skin robes, maney of them have Legins and mockersons, all of which they precure of the Indians at a distance in exchange for their pounded fish & Beeds, they also purchase Silk grass, of which they make their nets & Sales for takeing fish they also purchase Bear grass and maney other things for their fish. those people gave me roots and berries prepared in different ways for which I gave some Small articles in return.-Great numbers of Skiming knets on their houses. Those people are Pore and Kind durty & indolt. They ware their hair loose flowing the men cut in the foward which the Skilloots do not &c. &c.
April 20th 1806 This morning was very cold with hills covered in snow. I showed the natives what I had to offer for their horses and tried to buy them. They told me that they wouldn't sell any horses to me, that their horses were far away, and they wouldn't trade them. My offer included a blue robe, a calico shirt, a handkerchief, five parcels of paint, a knife, a wampum moon, four ribbons, a piece of brass, and about six strings of yellow beads; in addition to all that, I also offered my large blue blanket for one horse, my coat, sword, and plume, but none of it seemed to interest them enough to part with any horses if they had them. They sat in their huts, made of mats supported on poles, without a fire. At night, when they wanted light, they burned dry straw and a few small dry willows. They speak differently from those below and have very little to eat. Some roots and dried fish can be found in their homes. I'm half frozen in this inhospitable village, which has moved from its original location above the falls to one below and contains 19 large houses. There's also a village established on the other side just above the falls. All the natives who lived above the falls have moved. These people are dressed much better than they were when we traveled down the river. They all have new robes made from deer, elk, ibex goat, and wolf skins; their children also wear large squirrel skin robes. Many of them have leggings and moccasins, all of which they acquire from distant Indians in exchange for their pounded fish and beads. They also buy silk grass, which they use to make their fishing nets and sales, and they purchase bear grass and many other items for their fish. These people gave me roots and berries prepared in various ways for which I exchanged some small items in return. There are great numbers of fishing nets on their houses. These people are poor, kind, dirty, and lazy. They wear their hair loose; the men cut their hair in the front, which the Skilloots do not, etc., etc.
I could not precure a Single horse of those people, dureing this day at any price, they offered me 2 for 2 kittles of which we Could not spear. I used every artifice decent & even false Statements to enduce those pore devils to Sell me horses. in the evening two different men offered to Sell me three horses which they informed me was a little distance off and they would bring them imediately. those two persons as I found went imediately off up the river to their tribe without any intention to find or Sell their horses. a little before Sunset 3 men arived from Some distance above and informed me that they Came to See me. at Sunset finding no probability of Capt Lewis arival, packed up the articles and took them into the lodge in which I lay last night. Great numbers of those people geathered around me to Smoke. I gave them 2 pipes and lay down in the back part of the house with Sgt. P. & the men with our arms in a Situation as to be ready in case of any alarm. those pore people appear entirely harmless—I purchased a dog and Some wood with a little pounded fish and Chappaless. made a fire on the rocks and Cooked the dogs on which the men breckfast & Dined. wind hard all day cold from N W.
I couldn't find a single horse from those people today, no matter the price. They offered me two for two kettles, which we couldn't manage. I tried every reasonable trick and even made some false statements to persuade those poor folks to sell me horses. In the evening, two different men said they would sell me three horses that were a bit of a distance away, and they promised to bring them right away. However, I discovered that those two went straight up the river to their tribe without any intention of finding or selling the horses. Just before sunset, three men arrived from some distance away and said they came to see me. As sunset approached and with no sign of Captain Lewis arriving, I packed up my things and took them into the lodge where I slept last night. A large number of those people gathered around me to smoke. I gave them two pipes and lay down in the back part of the house with Sergeant P. and the men, keeping our arms ready in case of any alarm. Those poor people seemed completely harmless. I bought a dog and some wood along with a little pounded fish and chappaless. I made a fire on the rocks and cooked the dog, which the men had for breakfast and dinner. The wind was strong all day and it was cold coming from the northwest.
[Clark, April 20, 1806]
Sunday 20th April 1806 a very cold morning the western mountains Covered with Snow I Shewed the Eneshers the articles I had to give for their horses. they without hezitation informed me that they would not Sell me any for the articles I had, if I would give them Kitties they would let me have horses, and not without. that their horses were at a long ways off in the planes and they would not Send for them &c. my offer was a blue robe, a Calleco Shirt, a Silk handkerchief, 5 parcels of paint, a knife, a Wampom moon, 8 yards of ribon, Several pieces of Brass, a mockerson awl and 6 braces of yellow beeds; and to that amount for each horse which is more than double what we gave either the Sohsohne or first flat heads we met with on Clarks river I also offered my large blue blanket, my Coat Sword & plume none of which Seamed to entice those people to Sell their horses. not with standing every exertion not a Single horse Could be precured of those people in the Course of the day. Those people are much better Clad than they were last fall, their men have generally legins mockersons and large robes. maney of them ware Shirts of the Same form of those of the Chopunnish and Shoshone highly ornimented with porcupine quills. the dress of their winen differs verry little from those above the great rapids. their Children have Small robes of the Squirel Skins. those of the men & women are principally deer, Some elk, wolf, Ibix & buffalow which they precure from distant nations who purchase their Pounded fish in exchange for those robes & Beeds. The principal village of the Enesher nation is imedeately below the falls on the N. Side. one other village of the Same nation above the falls on the opposit Side and one other a few miles above on the North Side.—The Houses of those people like the Skillutes have the flores of their Summer dwelling on the Surface of the earth in Sted of those Sellers in which they resided when we passed them last fall. those houses are Covered with mats and Straw are large and Contain Several families each. I counted 19 at this Village & 11 on the opposit Side. those people are pore durty haughty. they burn Straw and Small willows. have but little to eate and deer with what they have. they precure the Silk grass of which they make their nets, the bear grass for makeing their mats and Several other necessary of the Indians of the following nations who trade with them as also the Skillutes for their pounded fish. Viz. Skad-dats, Squan-nun-os, Shan-wappoms, Shall-lat-tos, who reside to the north and Several bands who reside on the Columbia above.—I precured a Sketch of the Columbia and its branches of those people in which they made the river which falls into the Columbia imediately above the falls on the South Side to branch out into 3 branches one of which they make head in Mt.jefferson, one in mount Hood and the other in the S W. range of Mountains and does not water that extensive Country we have heretofore Calculated on. a great portion of that extensive tract of Country to the S. and S. W. of the Columbia and Lewis's river and between the Same and the waters of Callifornia must be watered by the Multnomah river.—See Sketch in the latter part of this book (No. 5). Those people are great jokies and deciptfull in trade.
Sunday, April 20, 1806, was a very cold morning with the western mountains covered in snow. I showed the Eneshers the items I had to trade for their horses. Without hesitation, they told me they wouldn’t sell any for what I had. They said if I offered them kits, they would let me have horses, and nothing less. Their horses were far away on the plains, and they wouldn’t send for them, etc. My offer included a blue robe, a calico shirt, a silk handkerchief, five packages of paint, a knife, a wampum belt, eight yards of ribbon, several pieces of brass, a moccasin awl, and six strands of yellow beads; and I was offering all of this for each horse, which is more than double what we gave either the Sohsohne or the first flatheads we met on Clark's River. I also offered my large blue blanket, my coat, sword, and plume; none of these seemed to convince them to sell their horses. Despite all my efforts, I couldn’t secure a single horse from them throughout the day. The Eneshers are much better dressed than last fall. The men usually wear leggings, moccasins, and large robes. Many of them wear shirts similar to those of the Chopunnish and Shoshone, highly decorated with porcupine quills. The women's clothing is very similar to that of those living above the great rapids. Their children have small robes made of squirrel skins. The clothing of the men and women is primarily made of deer, with some made from elk, wolf, ibex, and buffalo, which they obtain from distant tribes that trade for their pounded fish. The main village of the Enesher nation is just below the falls on the north side, with another village of the same nation above the falls on the opposite side and one more a few miles above on the north side. The houses of these people, like those of the Skillutes, have the floors of their summer dwellings on the surface of the earth instead of in the cellars where they stayed when we passed by them last fall. These houses are covered with mats and straw, are large, and house several families each. I counted 19 in this village and 11 on the opposite side. These people are poor, dirty, and haughty. They burn straw and small willows, have very little to eat, and struggle with what they do have. They gather silk grass to make their nets, bear grass for making mats, and various other necessities from neighboring tribes, as well as the Skillutes for their pounded fish. Among these tribes are the Skad-dats, Squan-nun-os, Shan-wappoms, and Shall-lat-tos, who live to the north, and several bands that reside on the Columbia River upstream. I got a sketch of the Columbia and its branches from these people. They indicated that the river flowing into the Columbia just above the falls on the south side branches out into three streams: one originating from Mt. Jefferson, one from Mt. Hood, and the other from the southwest range of mountains, which does not irrigate the vast area we had previously calculated. A significant portion of that extensive land to the south and southwest of the Columbia and Lewis's River, and between them and the waters of California, must be watered by the Multnomah River. — See Sketch in the latter part of this book (No. 5). These people are great jokesters and tricky in trade.
at Sunset finding that Capt Lewis would not arrive this evening as I expected, I packed up all the articles which I had exposed, at a Situation I had pitched on to Encamp, and at which place we had bought as maney fishing poles as made a fire to Cook a dog which I had purchased for the men to eate, and returned to the lodge which I had Slept in last night. great number gathered around me to Smoke, I gave them two pipes, and then lay my self down with the men to Sleep, haveing our merchendize under our heads and guns &c in our arms, as we always have in Similar Situations
At sunset, realizing that Captain Lewis wouldn’t arrive this evening as I had expected, I packed up all the equipment I had laid out at the spot where I planned to camp. There, we had bought as many fishing poles and made a fire to cook a dog I had purchased for the men to eat, then returned to the lodge where I had slept the night before. A large number gathered around me to smoke, so I handed out two pipes, and then lay down with the men to sleep, with our merchandise under our heads and guns, etc., in our arms, as we always do in similar situations.
[Lewis, April 21, 1806]
Monday April 21st 1806. Notwithstanding all the precautions I had taken with rispect to the horses one of them had broken his cord of 5 strands of Elkskin and had gone off spanseled. I sent several men in surch of the horse with orders to return at 10 A.M. with or without the horse being determined to remain no longer with these villains. they stole another tomahawk from us this morning I surched many of them but could not find it. I ordered all the spare poles, paddles and the ballance of our canoe put on the fire as the morning was cold and also that not a particle should be left for the benefit of the indians. I detected a fellow in stealing an iron socket of a canoe pole and gave him several severe blows and mad the men kick him out of camp. I now informed the indians that I would shoot the first of them that attempted to steal an article from us. that we were not affraid to fight them, that I had it in my power at that moment to kill them all and set fire to their houses, but it was not my wish to treat them with severity provided they would let my property alone. that I would take their horses if I could find out the persons who had stolen the tommahawks, but that I had reather loose the property altogether than take the hose of an inosent person. the chiefs were present hung their heads and said nothing. at 9 A.M. Windsor returned with the lost horse, the others who were in surch of the horse soon after returned also. the Indian who promised to accompany me as far as the Chopunnish country produced me two horses one of which he politely gave me the liberty of packing. we took breakfast and departed a few minutes after 10 OClock. having nine horses loaded and one which Bratton rode not being able as yet to march; the two canoes I had dispatched early this morning. at 1 P.M. I arrived at the Enesher Village where I found Capt Clark and party; he had not purchased a single horse. he informed me that these people were quite as unfriendly as their neighbours the Skillutes, and that he had subsisted since he left me on a couple of platters of pounded roots and fish which an old man had the politeness to offer him. his party fared much better on dogs which he purchased from those people. the man resided here from whom I had purchased the horse which ran off from me yesterday. I had given him a large kettle and a knife in exchange for that horse which I informed him should be taken from him unles he produced me the lost horse or one of equal value in his stead, the latter he prefered and produced me a very good horse which I very cheerfully received. we soon made the portage with our canoes and baggage and halted about 1/2 a mile above the Village where we graized our horses and took dinner on some dogs which we purchased of these people. after dinner we proceeded on about four miles to a village of 9 mat lodges of the Enesher a little below the entrance of Clark's river and encamped; one of the canoes joined us the other not observing us halt continued on. we obtained two dogs and a small quantity of fuel of these people for which we were obliged to give a higher price than usual. our guide continued with us, he appears to be an honest sincere fellow. he tells us that the indians a little above will treat us with much more hospitality than those we are now with. we purchased another horse this evening but his back is in such a horid state that we can put but little on him; we obtained him for a trifle, at least for articles which might be procured in the U States for 10 shillings Virga Cory.- we took the precaution of piquting and spanseling our horses this evening near our camp.
Monday, April 21st, 1806. Despite all the precautions I had taken with the horses, one of them broke its 5-strand elk skin cord and wandered off. I sent several men to look for the horse, instructing them to come back by 10 A.M., whether they found it or not, as I was determined not to stay among these thieving people any longer. They stole another tomahawk from us this morning; I searched many of them but couldn't find it. I ordered all the spare poles, paddles, and the rest of our canoe to be burned since it was cold that morning, and I wanted to ensure that not a single thing was left for the Indians. I caught someone stealing an iron socket from a canoe pole and gave him several hard hits, then had the men kick him out of camp. I informed the Indians that I would shoot the first one who tried to take anything from us; we weren't afraid to fight them. I emphasized that I had the power to kill them all and burn their homes right then, but I didn’t want to be harsh with them as long as they left my belongings alone. I mentioned that I would take their horses if I could find out who had stolen the tomahawks, but I would rather lose my property entirely than take an innocent person’s horse. The chiefs, who were present, hung their heads and said nothing. At 9 A.M., Windsor returned with the lost horse, and the others who were searching for it came back shortly after. The Indian who promised to accompany me as far as the Chopunnish country brought me two horses, one of which he kindly allowed me to pack. We had breakfast and left a few minutes after 10 o'clock, with nine loaded horses and one that Bratton was riding, as he couldn't march yet. I had sent the two canoes early that morning. By 1 P.M., I arrived at the Enesher Village, where I found Capt. Clark and his party; he hadn’t bought a single horse. He told me that these people were just as unfriendly as their neighbors, the Skillutes, and that he had survived since leaving me on a couple of platters of pounded roots and fish that an old man was nice enough to offer him. His group fared much better on dogs that he bought from the locals. The man from whom I bought the horse that ran off yesterday was here. I had given him a large kettle and a knife for that horse, and I informed him that I would take those items back unless he produced the lost horse or one of equal value. He preferred to give me a suitable replacement horse, which I gladly accepted. We quickly transported our canoes and gear and stopped about half a mile above the village, where we grazed our horses and had dinner from some dogs we purchased from these people. After dinner, we moved on about four miles to a village of nine mat lodges of the Enesher, just below the entrance of Clark's River, and set up camp. One of the canoes joined us while the other, not noticing we had stopped, continued on. We managed to get two dogs and a small amount of firewood from the locals, but we had to pay more than usual. Our guide is still with us; he seems to be a genuinely honest guy. He tells us that the Indians a little further up will treat us much more kindly than those we are currently with. We bought another horse this evening, but its back is in such terrible shape that we can’t load much on it; we got him for very little, at least for items that could be bought in the U.S. for 10 shillings. We made sure to picket and span our horses near our camp this evening.
[Clark, April 21, 1806]
April 21st 1806 a fair Cold morning. I find it useless to offer any articles or attempt to trade at this village and therefore deturmine to ____ before I rose the house was Crouded with Indians to Smoke I gave them none. they are well Supplied with Straw & bark bags ready to hold their pounded fish. at 12 oClock the advance of the party from below arived and Soon after the Canoes all things were taken above the falls & 2 Canoes, turned out the horss and Cooked & Eat 2 dogs which we purchased of the nativs, purchased one horse for Which we are to give a Kittle which was given by us to a man for a horse 3 days past &c. the horse was either taken or Strayed off. The Chief from below Came up and appeared Concerned for what had been done at his Village (See Journal)
April 21st, 1806, a chilly morning. I find it pointless to offer any goods or try to trade in this village, so I decide to ____ before I got up. The house was crowded with Indians wanting to smoke, but I didn't give them any. They are well-stocked with straw and bark bags to hold their pounded fish. At noon, the group coming from below arrived, and soon after, the canoes. Everything was taken above the falls, and we turned out the horse, cooked, and ate two dogs that we bought from the natives. We bought one horse, for which we are supposed to give a kettle that we gave to a man three days ago for a horse, but that horse has either been stolen or has wandered off. The chief from below came up and looked worried about what had happened in his village (See Journal).
a 4 P M loaded up & Set out the Canoes also proceed on about 3 miles opposit to the Mouth of Clarks river, and an Indian man who has attached himself to us and who has lent us a horse to pack & lives near the Rocky mountains. he told us that as the day was far Spent we had better Camp at a village of 9 Lodges a little off the road opsd. the River CClarks This river has a great falls above 2 forks on its West Side. we formed a Camp purchased Some wood & 3 dogs for which we gave pewter buttons which buttons we had made &c. but fiew Indians with us this evining purchased an old horse and tied up all the horses when we went to bed
At 4 PM, we loaded up and set out. The canoes also moved on about 3 miles, opposite the mouth of Clark's River. An Indian man who has joined us and lent us a horse to pack lives near the Rocky Mountains. He told us that since the day was getting late, we should camp at a village of 9 lodges a little off the road across from the river. This river has a great fall above the two forks on its west side. We set up camp, bought some wood, and got 3 dogs in exchange for pewter buttons we had made. There were only a few Indians with us that evening. We bought an old horse and tied up all the horses when we went to bed.
Those are the Same people with those below at the falls. See journal for the next day-
Those are the same people as those down at the falls. Check the journal for the next day-
Skad data ill looking people reside to the N about 18 or 20 miles they played against the Skillutes a game they Call ____ 9 of a Side and lost all the beeds & other articles
Skad data ill-looking people live about 18 or 20 miles to the north. They played against the Skillutes in a game they call ____ 9 of a side and lost all the beads and other items.
also a Single game with 2 black & 2 white Sticks under a kind of hat. 2 men played this game is intricit and each party has 4 pegs to count it
also a single game with 2 black and 2 white sticks under a kind of hat. 2 men played this game, which is intricate, and each player has 4 pegs to keep score.
The former game is played with 2 bones or Sticks about the Size of a large quill and 2 inches long passing from one hand to the other and the adverse party guess. See description before mentioned. The nations abov at the falls also play this game and bet high
The previous game is played with 2 bones or sticks about the size of a large quill and 2 inches long, passed from one hand to the other while the opposing team guesses. See the description mentioned earlier. The nations above the falls also play this game and bet a lot.
[Clark, April 21, 1806]
Monday 21st April 1806 A fair Cold morning I found it useless to make any further attempts to trade horses with those unfriendly people who only Crouded about me to view and make their remarks and Smoke, the latter I did not indulge them with to day. at 12 oClock Capt Lewis and party Came up from the Skillutes Village with 9 horses packed and one which bratten who was yet too weak to walk, rode, and Soon after the two Small Canoes also loaded with the residue of the baggage which Could not be taken on horses. we had everry thing imedeately taken above the falls, in the mean time purchased 2 Dogs on which the party dined—whilst I remained at the Enesher Village I Subsisted on 2 platters of roots, Some pounded fish and Sun flour Seed pounded which an old man had the politeness to give me. in return for which I gave him Several Small articles-.
Monday, April 21, 1806 It was a chilly morning. I found it pointless to keep trying to trade horses with those unfriendly people who just crowded around to watch, make comments, and smoke, which I didn’t indulge them in today. At noon, Captain Lewis and his group arrived from the Skillutes Village with nine horses loaded up and one that Bratten, who was still too weak to walk, rode. Shortly after, the two small canoes also arrived, carrying the rest of the baggage that couldn’t be taken on horseback. We got everything moved above the falls right away. In the meantime, I bought two dogs that the group had for lunch while I stayed at the Enesher Village, surviving on two platters of roots, some pounded fish, and pounded sunflower seeds, which an old man kindly gave me. In return, I gave him several small items.
Capt Lewis informed me that imedeately after I left him the nativs began to Steal and had Stolen Tomahawks of the party, and in the Course of the night had let our horses loose he had burnt one and Sold 2 of the largest Canoes for beeds, the other 2 brought on. an indian was detected in Stealing a socket and was kicked out of Camp. Capt L. informed the Indians that the next man who attempted to steal Should be Shot and thretened them and informed them that he could kill them in a moment and Set their town on fire if he pleased. but it was not his desire to hurt them Severly if they would let the property of the party alone. the Chiefs hung their heads and Said nothing. he lost the horse that was given for a large kittle, and a Chopunnish man lent a horse to carry a load and accompanied the party—The man who we had reason to believe had Stolen the horse he had given for the Kittle we thretend a little and he produced a very good horse in the place of that one which we Chearfully receved.
Capt. Lewis told me that right after I left him, the natives started stealing and had taken the party's tomahawks. During the night, they let our horses loose; he burned one and sold two of the largest canoes for beads, while the other two were brought along. An Indian was caught stealing a socket and was kicked out of camp. Capt. L. warned the Indians that the next person who tried to steal would be shot, threatening them and letting them know he could kill them in an instant and set their town on fire if he wanted to. However, he didn't want to harm them severely if they would just leave the party's property alone. The chiefs hung their heads and said nothing. He lost the horse that was given for a large kettle, and a Chopunnish man lent a horse to carry a load and accompanied the party. The man we suspected of stealing the horse he had given for the kettle was lightly threatened, and he provided a very good horse in exchange for the one we cheerfully accepted.
after dinner we proceeded on about 4 Miles to a Village of 9 Mat Lodges of the Enesher, a little below the enterance of To war nah hi ooks river and encamped. one of the Canoes joined us, the other not haveing observed us halt continued on. We obtained 2 Dogs and a Small quantity of fuel of those people for which we were obliged to give a higher price than usial. our guide continued with us, he appears to be an honest fellow. he tels us that the indians above will treat us with much more hospitallity than those we are now with. we purchased another horse this evening but his back is in Such a horrid State that we Can put but little on him; we obtained him for a triffle, at least for articles which might be precured in the U. States for 10/-virga. Currency—we took the precaution of picqueting and Spancelling our horses this evening near our Camp. the evening Cold and we Could afford only one fire.
After dinner, we traveled about 4 miles to a village with 9 mat lodges of the Enesher, just below the entrance of the To war nah hi ooks river, and set up camp. One of the canoes joined us, but the other, not seeing us stop, continued on. We got 2 dogs and a small amount of fuel from the locals, but we had to pay more than usual for them. Our guide is still with us; he seems to be a decent guy. He tells us that the Indians upstream will be much more welcoming than those we’re with now. We bought another horse this evening, but his back is in such bad shape that we can put very little on him; we got him for a steal, at least for items that would cost about 10/- Virginia currency in the U.S. We made sure to tie up and secure our horses near our camp tonight. It’s cold in the evening, and we could only manage one fire.
[Lewis, April 22, 1806]
Tuesday April 22cd 1806. Last night two of our horses broke loos from the picquits and straggled off some little distance, the men who had charge of them fortunately recovered them early. at 7 A.M. we set out having previously sent on our small Canoe with Colter and Potts. we had not arrived at the top of a hill over which the road leads opposite the village before Charbono's horse threw his load, and taking fright at the saddle and robe which still adhered, ran at full speed down the hill, near the village he disengaged himself from the saddle and robe, an indian hid the robe in his lodge. I sent our guide and one man who was with me in the rear to assist Charbono in retaking his horse which having done they returned to the village on the track of the horse in surch of the lost articles they found the saddle but could see nothing of the robe the indians denyed having seen it; they then continued on the track of the horse to the place from whence he had set out with the same success. being now confident that the Indians had taken it I sent the Indian woman on to request Capt. C. to halt the party and send back some of the men to my assistance being determined either to make the indians deliver the robe or birn their houses. they have vexed me in such a manner by such repeated acts of villany that I am quite disposed to treat them with every severyty, their defenseless state pleads forgivness so far as rispects their lives. with this resolution I returned to their village which I had just reached as Labuish met me with the robe which he informed me he found in an Indian lodg hid behind their baggage. I now returned and joined Capt Clark who was waiting my arrival with the party. the Indian woman had not reached Capt C. untill about the time I arrived and he returned from a position on the top of a hill not far from where he had halted the party. from the top of this emmenense Capt. C. had an extensive view of the country. he observed the range of mountains in which Mount Hood stands to continue nearly south as far as the eye could reach. he also observed the snow clad top of Mount Jefferson which boar S. 10 W. Mount Hood from the same point boar S. 30 W. the tops of the range of western mountains are covered with snow. Capt C. also discovered some timbered country in a Southern direction from him at no great distance. Clarks river which mouths immediately opposite this point of view forks at the distance of 18 or 20 miles from hence, the wright hand fork takes it rise in mount Hood, and the main branch continues it's course to the S. E.
Tuesday, April 22, 1806. Last night, two of our horses broke loose from the pickets and wandered off a bit. The men watching them managed to round them up early. At 7 A.M., we set out after sending our small canoe ahead with Colter and Potts. Before we reached the top of a hill that overlooks the village, Charbono's horse lost its load and, frightened by the saddle and blanket still attached, ran full speed down the hill. Near the village, it got free from the saddle and blanket, and an Indian hid the blanket in his lodge. I sent our guide and one man who was with me at the back to help Charbono catch his horse. After they did, they returned to the village following the horse’s trail. They found the saddle but couldn't locate the blanket, and the Indians denied seeing it. They then continued along the horse's path back to where it had started, with the same result. Now convinced that the Indians had taken it, I sent the Indian woman ahead to ask Captain Clark to pause the group and send back some men to help me. I was determined to either get the Indians to return the blanket or burn their houses down. They had frustrated me greatly with their ongoing acts of dishonesty, and I was ready to deal with them harshly; though their defenseless situation spared their lives for now. With this mindset, I went back to their village, and just when I arrived, Labuish met me with the blanket, which he told me he found hidden behind the baggage in an Indian lodge. I then returned to join Captain Clark, who was waiting for me with the rest of the group. The Indian woman hadn’t reached Captain Clark until about the time I did, and he came back from a spot on a hill nearby where he had halted. From the top of this vantage point, Captain Clark had a wide view of the area. He noticed the mountain range where Mount Hood is located extending south as far as he could see. He also saw the snow-covered peak of Mount Jefferson, which was to the S. 10 W. Mount Hood from the same position was S. 30 W. The peaks of the western mountain range were capped with snow. Captain Clark also spotted some wooded area to the south of him, not too far away. Clark's River, which flows right in front of this viewpoint, branches off about 18 or 20 miles from here; the right-hand fork originates in Mount Hood, while the main branch continues southeast.
we now made the following regulations as to our future order of march (viz) that Capt. C. & myself should devide the men who were disencumbered by horses and march alternately each day the one in front and the other in rear. haveing divided the party agreeably to this arrangement, we proceeded on through an open plain country about 8 miles to a village of 6 houses of the Eneshur nation, here we observed our 2 canoes passing up on the opposite side; the wind being too high for them to pass the river they continued on. we halted at a small run just above the village where we dined on some dogs which we purchased of the inhabitants and suffered our horses to graize about three hours. there is no timber in this country we are obliged to purchase our fuel of the natives, who bling it from a great distance. while we halted for dinner we purch a horse. after dinner we proceeded on up the river about 4 miles to a village of 7 mat lodges of the last mentioned nation. here our Chopunnish guide informed us that the next village was at a considerable distance and that we could not reach it tonight. the people at this place offered to sell us wood and dogs, and we therefore thought it better to remain all night. a man blonging to the next village abovd proposed exchanging a horse for one of our canoes, just at this moment one of our canoes was passing. we hailed them and ordered them to come over but the wind continued so high that they could not join us untill after sunset and the Indian who wished to exchange his horse for the canoe had gone on. Charbonoe purchased a horse this evening. we obtained 4 dogs and as much wood as answered our purposes on moderate terms. we can only afford ourselves one fire, and are obliged to lie without shelter, the nights are cold and days warm.- Colter and Pots had passed on with their canoe.
We made the following rules for our future travel plans: Captain C. and I would divide the men who weren’t riding horses and take turns marching each day, with one of us in front and the other in the back. After splitting the group according to this plan, we moved through an open plain for about 8 miles to a village with 6 houses belonging to the Eneshur nation. Here, we noticed our 2 canoes traveling up the opposite side; since the wind was too strong for them to cross the river, they kept going. We stopped at a small stream just above the village, where we had lunch with some dogs we bought from the locals and let our horses graze for about three hours. There's no wood in this area, so we have to buy our fuel from the natives, who bring it from a long distance. While we paused for lunch, we bought a horse. After lunch, we continued up the river for about 4 miles to a village with 7 mat lodges from the same nation. Our Chopunnish guide informed us that the next village was quite far away, and we wouldn’t make it there tonight. The people here offered to sell us wood and dogs, so we decided it was better to stay the night. A man from the village upstream suggested exchanging a horse for one of our canoes. Just then, one of our canoes was passing by. We called to them and ordered them to come over, but the wind was still too strong, and they couldn’t reach us until after sunset, and the Indian who wanted to trade his horse for the canoe had already left. Charbonneau bought a horse this evening. We got 4 dogs and enough wood for our needs at reasonable prices. We can only afford one fire and have to sleep outside without shelter; the nights are cold and the days are warm. Colter and Pots had moved on with their canoe.
[Clark, April 22, 1806]
Tuesday 22nd of April 1806 last night 2 of our horses broke loose and Strayed of at a Short dis-tance. at 7 oClock we loaded up and Set out, haveing previously Sent off the Canoe with Colter and Potts we had not arived at the top of the hill which is 200 feet before Shabonos horse threw off his load and went with great Speed down the hill to the Village where he disengaged himself of his Saddle & the robe which was under it, the Indians hid the robe and delayed Capt. Lewis and the rear party Some time before they found the robe which was in a lodge hid behind their baggage, and took possession of it. dureing the time the front of the party was waiting for Cap Lewis, I assended a high hill from which I could plainly See the range of Mountains which runs South from Mt. Hood as far as I could See. I also discovered the top of Mt. Jefferson which is Covered with Snow and is S to W. Mt. Hood is S. 30° W. the range of mountains are Covered with timber and also Mt Hood to a sertain bite. The range of Mountains has Snow on them. I also discovered some timbered land in a S. detection from me, Short of the mountains. Clarks river which mouthes imedeately opposit to me forks at about 18 or 20 miles, the West fork runs to the Mt Hood and the main branch Runs from S. E. after Capt Lewis Came up we proceeded on through a open ruged plain about 8 miles to a Village of 6 Houses on the river. here we observed our 2 Canoes passing up on the opposit Side and the Wind too high for them to join us. I halted at the mouth of a run above the village near Some good grass to let the horses graze and for the party to dine. Sent to the huts and purchased a dog & Some wood. dureing the time the party was takeing diner we purchased one horse. after we proceeded on up the river about 4 miles to a village of 7 mat Lodges. here our Chopunnish guide informed me that the next villg. was at Some distance and that we Could not get to it to night, and that there was no wood to be precured on this Side. a man offered to Sell us a horse for a Canoe. just at the moment we discovered one of our Canoes on the opposit Side. we concluded to Camp here all night with the expectation of precureing some horses. Sent and purchased Some wood and 4 dogs & Shapillele. Shabono purchased a hors for which he gave a red rapper, Shirt, ploom & Tomahawk &c. the party purchased a great quantity of Chapellell and Some berries for which they gave bits of Tin and Small pieces of Cloth & wire &c. had our horses led out and held to grass untill dusk when they were all brought to Camp, and pickets drove in the ground and the horses tied up. we find the horses very troublesom perticularly the Stud which Compose 10/13 of our number of horses. the air I find extreemly Cold which blows Continularly from Mt. Hoods Snowey regions. those Indians reside in Small Lodges built of the mats of Grass, flags &c. and Crouded with inhabitents, who Speak a language Somewhat different from those at the falls. their dress habits and appearance appear to be very much the Same with those below. we made 14 miles to day with the greatest exirtion. Serjt. Gass & R. Fields joined us with one Canoe this evening. the other Canoe with Colter & pots is a head.
Tuesday, April 22, 1806. Last night, two of our horses broke loose and wandered a short distance away. At 7 o'clock, we loaded up and set out, having already sent off the canoe with Colter and Potts. We hadn't reached the top of the hill, which is 200 feet high, when Shabono's horse threw off its load and sped down the hill to the village. There, it got rid of its saddle and the robe underneath it. The Indians hid the robe and delayed Captain Lewis and the rear party for a while before they found it hidden behind their baggage in a lodge. During the time the front of the party was waiting for Captain Lewis, I climbed a high hill from which I could clearly see the mountain range that runs south from Mt. Hood as far as I could see. I also spotted the summit of Mt. Jefferson, which is covered in snow and is located to the southwest. Mt. Hood is south 30° west. The mountain range is covered with timber, and so is Mt. Hood to a certain extent. Snow covers the mountains, and I also noticed some wooded land south of me, short of the mountains. Clark's River, which flows directly opposite me, forks at about 18 or 20 miles; the west fork leads to Mt. Hood, while the main branch runs southeast. After Captain Lewis arrived, we continued on through an open, rugged plain for about 8 miles to a village of 6 houses by the river. Here, we saw our 2 canoes passing up on the opposite side, but the wind was too strong for them to reach us. I stopped at the mouth of a creek above the village near some good grass to let the horses graze and for the party to have lunch. I sent someone to the huts and bought a dog and some firewood. During the time the party was having lunch, we bought one horse. After that, we went up the river about 4 miles to a village of 7 mat lodges. Our Chopunnish guide informed me that the next village was some distance away and that we wouldn’t be able to reach it tonight, and there was no wood to be found on this side. A man offered to sell us a horse for a canoe. Just then, we spotted one of our canoes on the opposite side. We decided to camp here for the night, hoping to get some horses. I sent someone to buy some firewood and 4 dogs and Chappellele. Shabono bought a horse, giving a red wrapper, shirt, plumes, a tomahawk, etc. The party bought a large quantity of Chappellele and some berries, trading bits of tin and small pieces of cloth and wire for them. We had our horses led out and kept to graze until dusk when they were all brought back to camp, and pickets were driven into the ground to tie them up. We found the horses very troublesome, particularly the stud, which makes up 10/13 of our number of horses. The air feels extremely cold, continually blowing from Mt. Hood's snowy regions. These Indians live in small lodges made of mats of grass, flags, etc., crowded with inhabitants who speak a language somewhat different from those at the falls. Their clothing, habits, and appearances seem very much the same as those below. We covered 14 miles today with great effort. Sergeant Gass and R. Fields joined us with one canoe this evening. The other canoe with Colter and Potts is ahead.
[Lewis, April 23, 1806]
Wednesday April 23rd 1806. At day light this morning we were informed that the two horses of our Interpreter Charbono were absent; on enquiry it appeared that he had neglected to confine them to picquts as had been directed last evening. we immediately dispatched Reubin Feilds and Labuish to assist Charbono in recovering his horses. one of them was found at no great distance and the other was given over as lost. at 8 A.M. Reuben Feilds and Sergt. Gass proceeded in the canoe. at 10 Labuish and Charbono returned unsuccessfull, they had gone back on the road nearly to the last village and suched the plains on either hand to a considerable distance. our remaining longer would have prevented our making a timely stage which in our situation is all important; we therefore determined to proceed immediately to the next village which from the information of our guide will occupy the greater part of the day to reach at eleven OCk. we loaded our horses and set out. during the time we were detained this morning we had two packsaddles made. we continued our march along a narrow rocky bottom on the N. side of the river about 12 miles to the Wah-how-pum Village of 12 temperary mat lodges near the Rock rapid. these people appeared much pleased to see us, sold us 4 dogs and some wood for our small articles which we had previously prepared as our only resource to obtain fuel and food through those plains. these articles conisted of pewter buttons, strips of tin iron and brass, twisted wire &c. we also obtained some shap-pe-lell newly made from these people. here we met with a Chopunnish man on his return up the river with his family and about 13 head of horses most of them young and unbroken. he offered to hire us some of them to pack as far a his nation, but we prefer bying as by hireing his horses we shal have the whole of his family most probably to mentain. at a little distance below this village we passed five lodges of the same people who like those were waiting the arrival of the salmon. after we had arranged our camp we caused all the old and brave men to set arround and smoke with us. we had the violin played and some of the men danced; after which the natives entertained us with a dance after their method. this dance differed from any I have yet seen. they formed a circle and all sung as well the spectators as the dancers who performed within the circle. these placed their sholders together with their robes tightly drawn about them and danced in a line from side to side, several parties of from 4 to seven will be performing within the circle at the same time. the whole concluded with a premiscuous dance in which most of them sung and danced. these people speak a language very similar to the Chopunnish whome they also resemble in their dress their women wear long legings mockersons shirts and robes. their men also dress with legings shirts robes and mockersons. after the dance was ended the Indians retired at our request and we retired to rest. we had all our horses side bubbled and turned out to graize; at this village, a large creek falls in on the N. side which we did not observe as we decended the river. the river is by no means as rapid as when we decended or at least not obstructed with those dangerous rapids the water at present covers most of the rocks in the bed of the river. the natives promised to barter their horses with us in the morning we therefore entertained a hope that we shall be enabled to proceede by land from hence with the whole of our party and baggage. came 12 miles by land. the sands made the march fatieguing.-
Wednesday, April 23rd, 1806. At dawn this morning, we learned that our interpreter Charbono’s two horses were missing; upon inquiry, it turned out he had failed to tie them up to the pickets as instructed last night. We immediately sent Reubin Feilds and Labuish to help Charbono find his horses. One horse was found not far away, but the other was considered lost. At 8 A.M., Reuben Feilds and Sergt. Gass took the canoe. By 10, Labuish and Charbono returned unsuccessful; they had searched back along the road nearly to the last village and scoured the plains on both sides for quite a distance. Staying longer would have hindered us from making a timely stop, which is crucial in our situation; we decided to head straight to the next village, which our guide indicated would take most of the day to reach by 11 o’clock. We loaded our horses and set off. During our delay this morning, we had two pack saddles made. We continued our journey along a narrow rocky riverbank, covering about 12 miles to the Wah-how-pum village, which consisted of 12 temporary mat lodges near the Rock Rapid. The villagers seemed very pleased to see us and sold us 4 dogs and some wood for the small items we had prepared in advance as our only means to get fuel and food in these plains. These items included pewter buttons, strips of tin, iron and brass, twisted wire, etc. We also got some shape-pe-lell freshly made from them. Here, we encountered a Chopunnish man returning up the river with his family and about 13 horses, most of which were young and unbroken. He offered to rent us some for the trip to his nation, but we preferred to buy them; renting would likely mean taking care of his entire family. A little further down from this village, we passed five more lodges of the same people, who were also waiting for the salmon to arrive. After setting up our camp, we invited all the old and brave men to sit around and smoke with us. We had someone play the violin, and some of the men danced; afterward, the natives entertained us with a dance of their own style. This dance was different from any I had seen before. They formed a circle, singing together, both dancers and spectators, while those inside the circle danced in a line from side to side, with several groups of 4 to 7 performing simultaneously. The whole event concluded with a mix of dancing, with most of them singing and moving together. These people speak a language very similar to the Chopunnish and dress similarly; their women wear long leggings, mockersons, shirts, and robes, while the men also wear leggings, shirts, robes, and mockersons. After the dance ended, the Indians left at our request, and we settled down to rest. We had all our horses side-bubbled and turned out to graze. At this village, a large creek flows in on the north side, which we hadn't noticed while descending the river. The river is not nearly as fast as it was during our descent, or at least it doesn't have those dangerous rapids; currently, most of the rocks in the riverbed are covered by water. The natives promised to trade horses with us in the morning, so we were hopeful that we could continue by land from here with our whole party and all our supplies. We traveled 12 miles by land; the sandy terrain made the march tiring.
[Clark, April 23, 1806]
Wednesday 23rd 1806 at day light this morning we were informed that the two horses of our interpreter Shabono were missing on enquirey we were informed that he had neglected to tie up his horses as derected last evening. we imedeately dispatch him, R. Fields & Labiech in Serch of the horses, one of them were found at no great distance. the other was not found. R. Fields retd. without finding the horse Set out with Sergt Gass in the Small Canoe at about 8 A M. at 10 Shabono and Labiech returned also unsucksessfull they had went on the back trail nearly to the last Village and took a circle around on the hills. as our Situation was Such that we Could not detain for a horse, which would prevent our makeing a timely Stage which is a great object with us in those open plains, we Concluded to give up the horse and proceed on to the next village which we were informed was at Some distance and would take us the greater part of the day. at 11 A.M. we packed up and Set out and proceeded up on the N. Side of the Columbia on a high narrow bottom and rockey for 12 miles to the Wah-how-pum village near the rock rapid of 12 temporary mat Lodges, those people appeared pleased to See us. they Sold us 4 dogs Some Shapollell and wood for our Small articles Such as awls pieces of Tin and brass. we passed Several Lodges on the bank of the river where they were fixed waiting for the Salmon. I over took a Choponish man whome I had Seen at the long, and who had found a bag of our powder and brought it to me at that place. this man had his family on the ____ and about 3 head of horses which appeared young and unbroke. his spous as also that of the other gave me a Cake of Chapellell and proceeded on with me to the Wah howpum Village and formed his Camp near us. we Caused all the old & brave men to Set around and Smoke with us. we Caused the fiddle to be played and Some of the men danced. after them the nativs danced. they dance different from any Indians I have Seen. they dance with their Sholders together and pass from Side to Side, defferent parties passing each other, from 2 to 7. and 4 parties danceing at the Same time and Concluding the dance by passing promiscuisly throu & beetween each other. after which we Sent of the Indians and retired to bed. Those people Speak a language verry Similal to the Chopunish and with a very inconsiderable difference. their dress and appearance is more like those of the Great falls of the Columbia. we had all our horses Side hobbled and let out to feed. at this village a large Creek falls in on the N. Side which I had not observed as I decended the river. the river is by no means as rapid as it was at the time we decended. The nativs promised to give is a horse for one of our Canoes. and offer to Sell us another for a Scarlet robe which we have not at present. Shabono made a bargin with one of the Indian men going with us, for a horse for Which he gave his Shirt. and two of the leather Sutes of his wife. The Sand through which we walked to day is So light that renders the march verry fatigueing. made 12 miles by land.
Wednesday, 23rd, 1806. At daylight this morning, we learned that the two horses belonging to our interpreter, Shabono, were missing. Upon inquiry, we found out that he had failed to tie up his horses as instructed the previous evening. We immediately sent him, R. Fields, and Labiech to search for the horses; one was found not far away, but the other was still missing. R. Fields returned without finding the horse. We set out with Sergeant Gass in the small canoe at about 8 AM. By 10 AM, Shabono and Labiech also returned unsuccessfully; they had followed the original trail back nearly to the last village and made a loop around the hills. As our situation was such that we couldn't afford to delay for a horse—this would hinder our ability to make timely stages, which is crucial in these open plains—we decided to give up on the horse and proceed to the next village, which we had been told was a good distance away and would take most of the day. At 11 AM, we packed up and set out, traveling along the north side of the Columbia River on a narrow, rocky bottom for 12 miles to the Wah-how-pum village near the rocky rapids, where we encountered 12 temporary mat lodges. The people there seemed pleased to see us. They sold us 4 dogs, some shapollell, and wood in exchange for small items like awls, pieces of tin, and brass. We passed several lodges on the riverbank that were set up, waiting for salmon. I caught up with a Choponish man whom I had seen at the long camp, who had found a bag of our powder and brought it to me there. This man had his family with him and about 3 young, unbroken horses. His wife, along with another’s, gave me a cake of chapellell and joined me as we proceeded to the Wah-how-pum village, where he set up camp nearby. We invited all the older and courageous men to sit around and smoke with us. We had the fiddle played and some of the men danced. After them, the natives performed their dance. They danced differently from any Indians I've seen, swaying shoulder to shoulder and moving from side to side, with different groups passing each other, from 2 to 7 people, and up to 4 groups dancing at the same time, finishing the dance by mingling among each other. After that, we sent off the Indians and went to bed. These people speak a language very similar to Choponish with only minor differences. Their dress and appearance are more akin to those of the Great Falls of the Columbia. We hobbled all our horses on the side and let them graze. At this village, a large creek flows in on the north side, which I hadn’t noticed when I descended the river. The river isn’t nearly as fast as it was during our descent. The natives promised to give us a horse for one of our canoes and offered to sell us another for a scarlet robe, which we don’t have at the moment. Shabono made a deal with one of the Indian men traveling with us, trading his shirt and two leather suits belonging to his wife for a horse. The sand we walked through today was so light that it made the march very tiring. We covered 12 miles on land.
[Lewis, April 24, 1806]
Thursday April 24 th 1806. We were up early this morning and dispatched the men in surch of our horses, they were all found in a little time except McNeal's. we hired an indian to surch for this horse it was one in the evening before he returned with him. in the intermediate time we had 4 packsaddles made purchased three horses of the Wah-howpums, and hired three others of the Chopunnish man who accompanys us with his family and horses. we now sold our canoes for a few strands of beads, loaded up and departed at 2 P.M. the natives had tantalized us with an exchange of horses for our canoes in the first instance, but when they found that we had made our arrangements to travel by land they would give us nothing for them I determined to cut them in peices sooner than leave them on those terms, Drewyer struck one of the canoes and split of a small peice with his tommahawk, they discovered us determined on this subject and offered us several strands of beads for each which were accepted. we proceeded up the river between the hills and it's Northen shore. the road was rocky and sandy alternately, the road difficult and fatiegu-ing. at 12 ms. we arrived at a village of 5 lodges of the Met-cow-wes, having passed 4 lodges at 4 and 2 at 2 Ms. further. we ramined all night near the Met-cow-we lodges about 2 miles below our encampment of the ____ of October last; we purchased three dogs and some shappellel of these people which we cooked with dry grass and willow boughs. many of the natives pased and repassed us today on the road and behaved themselves with distant rispect towards us. most of the party complain of the soarness of their feet and legs this evening; it is no doubt caused by walking over the rough stones and deep sands after bing for some months passed been accustomed to a soft soil. my left ankle gives me much pain. I baithed my feet in cold water from which I experienced considerable releif. The curloos are abundant in these plains and are now laying their eggs. saw the Kildee, the brown lizzard, and a Moonax which the natives had petted. the winds which set from Mount Hood or in a westerly direction are much more cold than those from the opposite quarter. there are now no dews in these plains, and from the appearance of the earth there appears to have been no rain for several weeks.—we derected that the three horses which we purchased yesterday should be bubbled and confined to a picqut, and that the others should be disposed of in the same manner they were last evening.
Thursday, April 24, 1806. We got up early this morning and sent the men to look for our horses. They found all of them in a little while except for McNeal's. We hired an Indian to search for this horse, and it was one in the evening before he returned with him. In the meantime, we had four pack saddles made, purchased three horses from the Wah-howpums, and hired three others from the Chopunnish man who is traveling with his family and horses. We sold our canoes for a few strands of beads, loaded up, and left at 2 P.M. The locals had tempted us with a trade of horses for our canoes at first, but when they realized we had arranged to travel by land, they offered us nothing for them. I decided to cut them up rather than leave them like that. Drewyer struck one of the canoes and cut off a small piece with his tomahawk. They saw we were serious about this and offered us several strands of beads for each, which we accepted. We moved up the river between the hills and the northern shore. The path alternated between rocky and sandy, making it difficult and exhausting. After 12 miles, we reached a village of five lodges belonging to the Met-cow-wes, having passed four lodges at four miles and two at two miles further. We stayed the night near the Met-cow-we lodges, about two miles below our encampment from last October. We bought three dogs and some eel from these people, which we cooked with dry grass and willow branches. Many locals passed by us today on the road and treated us with distant respect. Most of the group complained about sore feet and legs this evening, likely due to walking over the rough stones and deep sand after being used to soft soil for months. My left ankle is quite painful. I soaked my feet in cold water, which provided considerable relief. Curlews are abundant in these plains and are currently laying their eggs. I saw the Kildee, a brown lizard, and a Moonax that the locals had tamed. The winds coming from Mount Hood or from the west are much colder than those from the opposite direction. There are no dews in these plains, and the ground shows there hasn't been any rain for several weeks. We decided that the three horses we bought yesterday should be herded and confined to a pen, and that the others should be handled the same way they were last evening.
[Clark, April 24, 1806]
Thursday 24th April 1806 rose early this morning and Sent out after the horses all of which were found except McNeals which I hired an Indian to find and gave him a Tomahawk had 4 pack Saddles made ready to pack the horses which we may purchase. we purchased 3 horses, and hired 3 others of the Chopunnish man who accompanies us with his family, and at 1 P.M. Set out and proceeded on through a open Countrey rugid & Sandy between Some high lands and the river to a village of 5 Lodges of the Met-cow-we band haveing passed 4 Lodges at 4 miles and 2 Lodges at 6 miles. Great numbers of the nativs pass us on hors back maney meet us and Continued with us to the Lodges. we purchased 3 dogs which were pore, but the fattest we Could precure, and Cooked them with Straw and dry willow. we Sold our Canoes for a fiew Strands of beeds. the nativs had tantelized us with an exchange of horses for our Canoes in the first instance, but when they found that we had made our arrangements to travel by land they would give us nothing for them. we Sent Drewyer to Cut them up, he Struck one and Split her they discovered that we were deturmined to destroy the Canoes and offered us Several Strans of beeds which were acceptd most of the party Complain of their feet and legs this evening being very Sore. it is no doubt Causd. by walking over the rough Stone and deep Sand after being accustomed to a Soft Soil. my legs and feet give me much pain. I bathed them in Cold water from which I experienced Considerable relief. we directed that the 3 horses purchased yesterday should be hobbled and confined to pickquets and that the others Should be Hobbled & Spancled, and Strictly attended to by the guard made 12 miles to day.-
Thursday, April 24, 1806, rose early this morning and sent out after the horses, all of which were found except McNeal's. I hired an Indian to find him and gave him a tomahawk. We had four pack saddles ready to load the horses we might buy. We purchased three horses and hired three others from the Chopunnish man who is traveling with us and his family. At 1 P.M., we set out and continued through an open, rugged, and sandy area between some highlands and the river to a village of five lodges belonging to the Met-cow-we band, having passed four lodges at four miles and two lodges at six miles. A great number of natives passed us on horseback; many met us and continued with us to the lodges. We bought three dogs, which were poor, but the fattest we could find, and cooked them with straw and dry willow. We sold our canoes for a few strands of beads. The natives had initially tempted us with an exchange of horses for our canoes, but when they realized we had made arrangements to travel by land, they offered us nothing for them. We sent Drewyer to cut them up; he struck one and split it. They discovered that we were determined to destroy the canoes and offered us several strands of beads, which we accepted. Most of the party complained of sore feet and legs this evening. It's no doubt caused by walking over the rough stones and deep sand after being used to soft soil. My legs and feet are giving me a lot of pain. I bathed them in cold water, from which I experienced considerable relief. We directed that the three horses purchased yesterday should be hobbled and confined to pickets, and that the others should be hobbled and spangled, with strict attention from the guard. We made twelve miles today.
[Lewis, April 25, 1806]
Friday April 25th 1806. This morning we collected our horses and set out at 9 A.M. and proceeded on 11 ms. to the Village of the Pish-quit-pahs of 51 mat lodges where we arrived at 2 P.M. purchased five dogs and some wood from them and took dinner. this village contains about 7 hundred souls. most of those people were in the plains at a distance from the river as we passed down last fall, they had now therefore the gratification of beholding whitemen for the first time. while here they flocked arround us in great numbers tho treated us with much rispect. we gave two medals of the small size to their two principal Cheifs who were pointed out to us by our Chopunnish fellow traveller and were acknowledged by the nation. we exposed a few old clothes my dirk and Capt. C's swoard to barter for horses but were unsuccessfull these articles constitute at present our principal stock in trade. the Pish-quit-pahs insisted much on our remaining with them all night, but sudry reasons conspired to urge our noncomplyance with their wishes. we passed one house or reather lodge of the Metcowwees about a mile above our encampment of the ____th of October last the Pish-quit-pahs, may be considered hunters as well as fishermen as they spend the fall and winter months in that occupation. they are generally pleasently featured of good statue and well proportioned. both women and men ride extreemly well. their bridle is usually a hair rope tyed with both ends to the under jaw of the horse, and their saddle consists of a pad of dressed skin stuffed with goats hair with wooden stirups. almost all the horses which I have seen in possession of the Indians have soar backs. the Pishquitpah women for the most part dress with short shirts which reach to their knees long legings and mockersons, they also use large robes; some of them weare only the truss and robe they brade their hair as before discribed but the heads of neither male nor female of this tribe are so much flattened as the nations lower down on this river. at 4 P.M. we set out accompanyed by eighteen or twenty of their young men on horseback. we continued our rout about nine miles where finding as many willows as would answer our purposes for fuel we encamped for the evening. the country we passed through was much as that of yesterday. the river hills are about 250 feet high and generally abrupt and craggey in many places faced with a perpendicular and solid rock. this rock is black and hard. leve plains extend themselves from the tops of the river hills to a great distance on either side of the river. the soil is not as fertile as about the falls, tho it produces a low grass on which the horses feed very conveniently. it astonished me to seed the order of their horses at this season of the year when I knew that they had wintered on the dry grass of the plains and at the same time road with greater severity than is common among ourselves. I did not see a single horse which could be deemed poor and many of them were as fat as seals. their horses are generally good. this evining after we had encamped, we traded for two horses with nearly the same articles we had offered at the village; these nags Capt. C. and myself intend riding ourselves; haveing now a sufficiency to transport with ease all our baggage and the packs of the men.—we killed six ducks in the course of the day; one of them was of a speceis which I had never before seen I therefore had the most material parts of it reserved as a specimine, the leggs are yellow and feet webbed as those of the duckandmallard. saw many common lizzards, several rattlesnakes killed by the party, they are the same as those common to the U States. the horned Lizzard is also common.—had the fiddle played at the request of the natives and some of the men danced. we passed five lodges of the Walldh wolldhs at the distance of 4 miles above the Pishquitpahs.
Friday, April 25th, 1806. This morning we gathered our horses and set off at 9 A.M., traveling 11 miles to the village of the Pish-quit-pahs, which has 51 mat lodges. We arrived at 2 P.M., bought five dogs and some wood from them, and had dinner. This village has about 700 people. Most of the residents were away in the plains during our last visit in the fall, so they were excited to see white people for the first time. While we were there, they gathered around us in large numbers but treated us with great respect. We gave two small medals to their two main chiefs, pointed out to us by our Chopunnish traveling companion, who were recognized by the tribe. We tried to trade a few old clothes, my dirk, and Captain C's sword for horses, but were unsuccessful; these items are currently our main trade goods. The Pish-quit-pah people really wanted us to stay with them overnight, but various reasons made it impossible for us to agree to their request. We passed one lodge of the Metcowwees about a mile above our encampment from October ____th. The Pish-quit-pahs can be considered both hunters and fishermen, as they spend the fall and winter months doing both. They typically have pleasant features, good stature, and are well-proportioned. Both women and men ride extremely well. Their bridle is usually made of a hair rope tied to the under jaw of the horse, and their saddle consists of a pad made from dressed skin stuffed with goat hair, along with wooden stirrups. Almost all the horses I've seen with the Indians have sore backs. Most of the Pish-quit-pah women wear short shirts that reach their knees, long leggings, and moccasins; they also use large robes. Some wear only a truss and robe. They braid their hair as previously described, but neither the males nor females of this tribe have heads as flattened as those from tribes further down the river. At 4 P.M., we set out accompanied by eighteen or twenty of their young men on horseback. We continued our route for about nine miles, where we found enough willows for fuel and made camp for the evening. The landscape we traveled through was similar to yesterday's. The river hills are about 250 feet high, generally steep and craggy, in many places facing vertical and solid rock. This rock is black and hard. Flat plains extend from the tops of the river hills far on either side of the river. The soil here isn't as fertile as around the falls, although it produces low grass, which the horses feed on very well. I was surprised to see the condition of their horses at this time of year, knowing they had survived the winter on the dry grass of the plains and had been ridden harder than what we usually do. I didn’t see a single horse that looked poor, and many were as fat as seals. Their horses are generally good. This evening, after we set up camp, we traded for two horses with nearly the same items we had offered at the village; Captain C. and I intend to ride these horses ourselves, as we now have enough to easily carry all our baggage and the packs of the men. We killed six ducks during the day; one was of a species I had never seen before, so I saved the most important parts as a specimen. Its legs are yellow and its feet are webbed like those of a common duck. I saw many ordinary lizards and several rattlesnakes killed by the group; they’re the same ones found in the U.S. The horned lizard is also common. We had the fiddle played at the request of the locals, and some of the men danced. We passed five lodges of the Walldh wolldhs about 4 miles above the Pish-quit-pahs.
[Clark, April 25, 1806]
Friday 25th of April 1806 This morning we Collected our horses very conveniently and Set out at 9 A M and proceeded on to a village of Pish-quit-pahs of 52 mat Lodges 11 miles this village Contains about 700 Soles here we turned out our horses and bought 5 dogs & some wood and dined here we met with a Chief and gave him a Medal of the Small Size. we passed a house a little above the place we encamped on the 20th of Octr. 1805. we offered to purchase with what articles we had Such as old Clothes &c. emence numbers of those Indians flocked about us and behaved with distant respect towards us. we attempted to purchase Some horses without Suckcess. at 4 P. M Set out. I was in the rear and had not proceeded verry far before one of the horses which we had hired of the Chopunnish, was taken from Hall who I had directed to ride. he had fallen behind out of my sight at the time. we proceeded on about 9 miles through a Country Similar to that of yesterday and encamped below the mouth of a Small Creek we passed at 4 miles a Village of 5 Mat Lodges of the War-war-wa Tribe. We made a Chief and gave a medal to a Chief of each of those two tribes. great numbers of the nativs accompanied us to our encampmt. The Curloos are abundant in those plains & are now laying their eggs. Saw the Kildee the brown Lizzard, and a moonax which the nativs had petted. the Winds which Set from mount hood or in a westwardly direction are much more cold than those from any other quarter. there are no dews in these plains, and from the appearance of the earth there appears to have been no rain for Several Weeks. The pish-quit pahs may be considered as hunters as well as fishermen as they Spend the fall & winter months in that occupation. they are generally pleasently featured of good Statue and well proportiond. both women and men ride extreamly well. their bridle is usially a hair rope tied with both ends to the under jaw of the horse, and their Saddles Consist of a pad of dressed Skin Stuffed with goats hair with wooden Sturreps. almost all the horses I have Seen in the poss ession of the Indians have Sore backs.
Friday, April 25, 1806 This morning, we gathered our horses easily and set out at 9 AM, heading to a village of Pish-quit-pahs with 52 mat lodges, 11 miles away. This village has about 700 residents. Here, we let our horses rest, bought 5 dogs and some wood, and had lunch. We met a chief and gave him a small medal. We passed a house a little above where we camped on October 20, 1805. We offered to buy items like old clothes, but a large number of Indigenous people gathered around us, behaving respectfully from a distance. We tried to buy some horses but were unsuccessful. At 4 PM, we set out again. I was at the back and hadn’t gone far when one of the horses we had rented from the Chopunnish was taken from Hall, who I had instructed to ride it. He had fallen behind and was out of my sight at the time. We continued on for about 9 miles through terrain similar to yesterday’s and set up camp below the mouth of a small creek we passed after 4 miles, near a village of 5 mat lodges from the War-war-wa tribe. We presented medals to the chief of each of those two tribes. A large number of the locals accompanied us to our camp. Curlews are abundant in these plains and are currently laying their eggs. I saw a Kildee, a brown lizard, and a moonax that the locals had tamed. The winds coming from Mount Hood or from the west are much colder than those from any other direction. There are no dews in these plains, and the earth shows that there hasn’t been any rain for several weeks. The Pish-quit-pahs are considered both hunters and fishermen, as they spend the fall and winter months engaged in those activities. They generally have pleasant features, are well-built, and well-proportioned. Both women and men ride exceptionally well. Their bridle is usually a hair rope tied at both ends to the horse’s lower jaw, and their saddles consist of a pad made of dressed skin, stuffed with goat hair, and equipped with wooden stirrups. Almost all the horses I have seen owned by the Indigenous people have sore backs.
The pishquitpahs women for the most part dress with Short Shirts which reach to their knees long legins, and mockersons, they also use long robes; Some of them weare only the truss and robe, they brade their hair as before discribed but the heads of neither the male nor female of this tribe are So much flattend as the nativs lower down on this river. we were accompd. by 18 or 20 young men on horsback. we Continued our rout about 9 miles, where finding as maney Willows as would answer our purpose for fuel we encamped for the night. the Country we passed through was Sandy indifferent rocky and hills on the left. proceeded up on the North Side the river hills are about 250 feet high & generally abrupt and Craggey in maney places faced with a pirpendicular and Solid rock. this rock is black and hard. leavel plains extend themselves from the top of the river hills to a great distance on either Side of the river. the Soil is not as fertile as about the falls tho it produces low grass on which the horses feed very Conveniently. it astonished me to See the order of their horses at this Season of the year when I know they had wintered on dry grass of the plains and at the Same time rode with greater Severity than is Common among ourselves. I did not See a Single horse which Could be deemed pore, and maney of them were verry fat. their horses are generally good. this evening after we had encamped we traded for two horses with nearly the Same articles we had offered at the Village. these Nags Capt. L-s and myself intend rideing ourselves; haveing now a Sufficency to transport with ease all our baggage and the packs of the men.—we killed 6 ducks in the course of the day; one of them were of a Species I had never before Seen. the legs yellow and feet wibbed as those of the duckinmallard. Saw great numbers of Common Lizzard. Several rattle Snakes, killed by the party, they are the Same as those Common to the U. States. the Horned Lizzard is also Common.—a Chief over took us. we had the fiddle played by the request of the nativs and Some of the men danced. I think those plains are much more Sandy than any which I have Seen and the road is a bed of loose Sand. made 20 miles.
The women of the pishquitpahs mostly wear short shirts that reach their knees, along with long leggings and moccasins. They also wear long robes; some only wear a wrap and a robe. They braid their hair as previously described, but neither the men nor women of this tribe have heads that are as flat as those of the natives further down the river. We were accompanied by 18 or 20 young men on horseback. We continued our route for about 9 miles, where we found enough willows for fuel and set up camp for the night. The land we passed through was sandy, somewhat rocky, with hills on the left. We proceeded along the north side of the river where the hills are about 250 feet high, generally steep and craggy, many places facing a sheer, solid rock. This rock is black and hard. Flat plains stretch from the tops of the river hills for a great distance on either side of the river. The soil is not as fertile as around the falls, though it produces low grass that provides convenient feed for the horses. I was surprised to see how well their horses were doing at this time of year, knowing they had survived the winter on dry grass from the plains while working harder than is typical for us. I didn’t see a single horse that could be called poor, and many of them were quite fat. Their horses are generally good. That evening, after we had set up camp, we traded for two horses using nearly the same items we had offered at the village. Captain L-s and I plan to ride these horses ourselves, as we now have enough to easily transport all our baggage and the men's packs. We killed 6 ducks that day; one was a species I had never seen before, with yellow legs and webbed feet like a mallard. We saw many common lizards and several rattlesnakes, which were the same as those found in the U.S. The horned lizard is also common. A chief caught up with us, and at the request of the natives, we played the fiddle while some of the men danced. I think these plains are much sandier than any I have seen, and the road is a bed of loose sand. We traveled 20 miles.
[Lewis, April 26, 1806]
Saturday April 26th 1806. This morning early we set forward and at the distance of three miles entered a low level plain country of great extent. here the river hills are low and receede a great distance from the river this low country commenced on the S. side of the river about 10 miles below our encampment of last evening. these plains are covered with a variety of herbatious plants, grass, and three speceis of shrubs specimines of which I have preserved. at the distance of twelve miles we halted near a few willows which afforded us a sufficient quantity of fuel to cook our dinner which consisted of the ballance of the dogs we had purchased yesterday evening and some jirked Elk. we were overtaken today by several families of the natives who were traveling up the river with a number of horses; they continued with us much to our annoyance as the day was worm the roads dusty and we could not prevent their horses from crouding in and breaking our order of mach without using some acts of severity which we did not wish to commit. after dinner we continued our march through the level plain near the river 16 Ms. and encamped about a mile below three lodges of the Wollah wollah nation, and about 7 Ms. above our encampment of the 19 of October last. after we encamped a little Indian boy caught several chubbs with a bone in this form which he substituted for a hook. these fish were of about 9 inches long small head large abdomen, small where the tail joined the body, the tail wide long in proportion and forked. the back and ventral fins were equadistant from the head and had each 10 bony rays, the fns next the gills nine each and that near the tail 12. the upper exceeded the under jaw, the latter is truncate at the extremity and the tonge and pallet are smooth. the colour is white on the sides and belley and a blewish brown on the back. the iris of the eye is of a silvery colour and puple black.—we covered ourselves partially this evening from the rain by means of an old tent.
Saturday, April 26, 1806. This morning, we set off early and, after traveling three miles, entered a vast low plain. Here, the hills along the river are low and recede a long distance from the water. This low area began on the south side of the river about ten miles downstream from where we camped last night. These plains are filled with various herbaceous plants, grass, and three types of shrubs, samples of which I have collected. After twelve miles, we stopped near some willows that provided enough fuel for us to cook dinner, which consisted of the leftover dog meat we bought yesterday evening and some jerked elk. Today, we were joined by several families of natives traveling up the river with a number of horses. They stayed with us, which was quite annoying, as the day was warm and the roads dusty, and we couldn't prevent their horses from getting mixed in and disrupting our formation without resorting to some harsh measures that we wanted to avoid. After dinner, we continued our march through the flat plain alongside the river for 16 miles and set up camp about a mile below three lodges of the Wollah Wollah nation, and about seven miles above where we camped on October 19. After we set up camp, a little Indian boy caught several chubs using a bone as a hook. These fish were about nine inches long, with a small head, large abdomen, and narrow where the tail meets the body; the tail was wide, long in proportion, and forked. The dorsal and ventral fins were equally spaced from the head and each had ten bony rays, while the fins near the gills had nine rays each, and those near the tail had twelve. The upper jaw was longer than the lower, which ended squarely, and both the tongue and palate were smooth. The fish were white on the sides and belly, with a bluish-brown back. The iris of the eye was silvery, and the pupil was black. This evening, we partially sheltered ourselves from the rain using an old tent.
[Clark, April 26, 1806]
Saturday April 26th 1806 This morning early we proceeded on and at the distance of three miles entered a low leavel plain Country of great extent. here the river hills are low and receed a great distance from the river this low Country Comenced on the South Side about 10 miles below our Encampment of the last night, those plains are Covered with a variety of herbatious plants, Grass and 3 Species of Shrubs. at the distance of 12 miles halted near Some willows which afforded us a Sufficent quantity of fuel to cook our dinner which Consisted of the ballance of the dogs we had purchased yesterday evening and Some jerked Elk. we were over taken to day by Several families of the nativs who were traveling up the river with a Numr. of horses; they Continued with us much to our ennoyance as the day was worm the roads dusty and we Could not prevent their horses Crouding in and breaking our order of March without useing Some acts of Severty which we did not wish to Commit. after dinner we Continued our march through a leavel plain near the river 16 miles and encamped about a mile below 3 Lodges of the fritened band of the Wallah wallah nation, and about 7 miles above our encampment of the 19th of Octr. last. after we encamped a little Indian boy Cought Several Chubbs with a bone in this form which he Substituted for a hook. those fish were of about 9 inches long. we Covered our Selves perfectly this evening from the rain by means of an old tent. Saw a Goat and a Small wolf at a distance to day. made 28 miles
Saturday, April 26, 1806 This morning, we set out early and after traveling three miles, we entered a vast, flat plain. Here, the hills near the river are low and recede a considerable distance from the river. This flat land began on the south side about ten miles below where we camped last night. The plains are covered with a variety of herbaceous plants, grass, and three types of shrubs. After twelve miles, we stopped near some willows that provided us with enough fuel to cook our dinner, which consisted of the leftover dog meat we purchased yesterday evening and some jerked elk. Today, several families of natives caught up with us while traveling up the river with a number of horses. They continued with us, which was quite annoying, as the day was warm, the roads were dusty, and we couldn't stop their horses from crowding in and disrupting our order of march without resorting to some harsh actions that we didn't want to take. After dinner, we continued our march through the flat area near the river for sixteen miles and set up camp about a mile below three lodges of the frightened Wallah Wallah nation, and about seven miles above where we camped on October 19th last year. After we set up camp, a little Indian boy caught several chubs using a bone shaped like a hook. These fish were about nine inches long. We managed to cover ourselves completely from the rain this evening with an old tent. We saw a goat and a small wolf in the distance today. We made 28 miles.
[Lewis, April 27, 1806]
Sunday April 27th 1806. This morning we were detained untill 9 A.M. in consequence of the absence of one of Charbono's horses. the horse at length being recovered we set out and at the distance of fifteen miles passed through a country similar to that of yesterday; the hills at the extremity of this distance again approach the river and are rocky abrupt and 300 feet high. we ascended the hill and marched through a high plain for 9 miles when we again returned to the river, I now thought it best to halt as the horses and men were much fatiegued altho had not reached the Wallah wollah village as we had been led to beleive by our guide who informed us that the village was at the place we should next return to the river, and the consideration of our having but little provision had been our inducement to make the march we had made this morning. we collected some of the dry stalks of weeds and the stems of a shrub which resembles the southern wood; made a small fire and boiled a small quantity of our jerked meat on which we dined; while here the principal Cheif of the Wallahwallahs joined us with six men of his nation. this Cheif by name Yel-lept had visited us on the morning of the 19 of October at our encampment a little below this place; we gave him at that time a small medal, and promised him a larger one on our return. he appeared much gratifyed at seeng us return, invited us to remain at his village three or four days and assured us that we should be furnished with a plenty of such food as they had themselves; and some horses to assist us on our journey. after our scanty repast we continued our march accompanyed by Yellept and his party to the village which we found at the distance of six miles situated on the N. side of the river at the lower side of the low country about 12 ms. below the entrance of Lewis's river. This Cheif is a man of much influence not only in his own nation but also among the neighbouring tribes and nations.—This Village consists of 15 large mat lodges. at present they seem to subsist principally on a speceis of mullet which weigh from one to three lbs. and roots of various discriptions which these plains furnish them in great abundance. they also take a few salmon trout of the white kind.—Yellept haranged his village in our favour intreated them to furnish us with fuel and provision and set the example himself by bringing us an armfull of wood and a platter of 3 roasted mullets. the others soon followed his example with rispect to fuel and we soon found ourselves in possession of an ample stock. they birn the stems of the shrubs in the plains there being no timber in their neighbourhood of any discription. we purchased four dogs of these people on which the party suped heartily having been on short allowance for near two days. the indians retired when we requested them this evening and behaved themselves in every rispect extreemly well. the indians informed us that there was a good road which passed from the columbia opposite to this village to the entrance of the Kooskooske on the S. side of Lewis's river; they also informed us, that there were a plenty of deer and Antelopes on the road, with good water and grass. we knew that a road in that direction if the country would permit would shorten our rout at least 80 miles. the indians also informed us that the country was level and the road good, under these circumstances we did not hesitate in pursuing the rout recommended by our guide whos information was corroberated by Yellept & others. we concluded to pass our horses over early in the morning.
Sunday, April 27, 1806. This morning we were delayed until 9 A.M. because one of Charbono's horses was missing. Once the horse was found, we set off, and after fifteen miles, we passed through a landscape similar to yesterday's; the hills at the end of this distance drew close to the river and were rocky, steep, and 300 feet high. We climbed the hill and marched through a high plain for 9 miles before returning to the river. I thought it best to stop since the horses and men were quite tired, even though we hadn't reached the Wallah wallah village as our guide had led us to believe. He said the village was at the place where we would next return to the river, and considering that we had very little food left, we were motivated to make the march we'd done this morning. We gathered some dry weeds and the stems of a shrub that looks like southernwood, made a small fire, and boiled some of our jerked meat for lunch. While we were there, the chief of the Wallah wallah tribe joined us with six of his people. The chief, named Yel-lept, had visited us on the morning of October 19 at our camp a little below this location; we had given him a small medal then and promised him a larger one when we returned. He seemed very pleased to see us back, invited us to stay at his village for three or four days, and assured us that we would be provided with plenty of food and some horses to help us on our journey. After our meager meal, we continued our march, accompanied by Yel-lept and his group, to the village, which we found six miles away, located on the north side of the river at the lower end of the low country, about 12 miles below the mouth of Lewis's River. This chief is a man of great influence, not just in his own tribe but also among nearby tribes and nations. This village consists of 15 large mat lodges. Currently, they seem to mainly eat a type of mullet weighing between one to three pounds, as well as various roots that these plains provide in abundance. They also catch a few white salmon trout. Yel-lept spoke to his people on our behalf, urging them to provide us with fuel and food, and he set the example by bringing us an armful of wood and a plate of three roasted mullets. Others soon followed his lead when it came to gathering fuel, and before long, we found ourselves with a sufficient supply. They burn the stems of shrubs from the plains, as there is no timber in their vicinity. We bought four dogs from these people and had a hearty supper, having been on short rations for nearly two days. The Indians left when we asked them to and behaved very well in every respect. They informed us that there was a good road leading from the Columbia River across from this village to the entrance of the Kooskooske on the south side of Lewis's River. They also told us that there were plenty of deer and antelope along the road, with good water and grass. We knew that a road in that direction, if the terrain allowed, would shorten our route by at least 80 miles. The Indians also mentioned that the land was flat and the road was good, so we decided to follow the route recommended by our guide, whose information was confirmed by Yel-lept and others. We decided to take our horses across early in the morning.
[Clark, April 27, 1806]
Sunday April 27th 1806. This morning we were detained untill 9 A M in consequence of the absence of one of Shabono's horses. the horse being at length recovered we Set out and to the distance of 15 miles passed through a Country Similar to that of yesterday. (passed Muscle Shell rapid) and at the experation of this distance again approached the river, and are rocky abrupt and 300 feet high. we assended the hill and marched through a high plain 10 miles where we again returned to the river. we halted altho we had not reached the Wal-lah-lal-lah village as we had been led to believe by our guide who informed us that the village was at the place we Should next return to the river, and the considiration of our haveing but little provisions had been our inducement to make the march we had made this morning. we collected Some of the dry stalks of weeds and the Stems of Shrubs or weeds which resemble the Southern wood; made a Small fire and boiled a Small quantity of our jurked meat on which we dined; while here we were met by the principal Chief of the Wal lah wal lah Nation and Several of his nation. this chief by name Yel lep-pet had visited us on the morning of the 19th of Octr. at our encampment imedeately opposit to us; we gave him at that time a Small Medal, and promised him a large one on our return. he appeared much gratified at Seeing us return. he envited us to remain at his village 3 or 4 days and assured us that we Should be furnished with a plenty of Such food as they had themselves, and Some horses to assist us on our journey. after our Scanty repast we Continued our March accompanied by Yelleppit and his party to the Village which we found at the distance of Six miles, Situated on the North Side of the river. about 16 miles below the enterance of Lewis's river. This Chief is a man of much influence not only in his own nation but also among the neighbouring tribes and nations.—the village Consists of 15 large mat Lodges. at present they Seam to Subsist principally on a Species of Mullet which weighs from one to 3 pds. and roots of various discriptions which those plains furnish them in great abundance. They also take a fiew Salmon trout of the white kind. Yelleppet haranged his village in our favor intreated them to furnish us with fuel & provisions and Set the example himself by bringing us an armfull of wood, and a platter with 3 rosted mullets. the others Soon followed his example with respect to fuel and we Soon found ourselves in possession of an ample Stock, they burn the Stems of the Shrubs in the plains, there being no timber in this neighbourhood of any description. we purchased 4 dogs of those people on which the party Suped hartily haveing been on Short allowance for near 2 days. the Indians retired when we requested them this evening and behaved themselves in every respect very well. the Indians informed us that there was a good road Which passed from the Columbia opposit to this Village to the enterance of Kooskooske on the S. Side of Lewis's river, they also informed us, there were a plenty of Deer and Antilopes on the road with good water and grass. we knew that a road in that direction if the Country would permit it would Shorten the rout at least 80 miles. the Indians also inform us that the County was leavel and the road good, under those circumstances we did not hesitate in pursueing the rout recommended by our guide and Corroberated by Yetleppit and others. we Concluded to pass our horses over early in the morning.- made 31 miles to day
Sunday, April 27, 1806. This morning we were delayed until 9 AM because one of Shabono's horses was missing. Once we recovered the horse, we set out and, after traveling 15 miles, passed through a landscape similar to yesterday's (we went by Muscle Shell rapid). After this distance, we approached the river again, which was rocky, steep, and about 300 feet high. We climbed the hill and marched through a high plain for 10 miles, where we returned to the river. We stopped even though we hadn’t reached the Wal-lah-lal-lah village as our guide had led us to believe it would be at the point where we would next get back to the river. Given that we had very few provisions, this was why we had made the march this morning. We collected some dry weeds and stems from shrubs that resembled Southern wood, then made a small fire to boil a bit of our jerked meat for lunch. While we were there, we met the chief of the Wal-lah-wal-lah Nation and several people from his tribe. The chief, named Yel lep-pet, had visited us on the morning of October 19 at our campsite directly across from us; we had given him a small medal at that time and promised him a larger one when we returned. He seemed very pleased to see us back. He invited us to stay at his village for 3 or 4 days and assured us that we would be provided with plenty of the food they had, as well as some horses to help us on our journey. After our meager meal, we continued our march accompanied by Yel lep-pet and his group to the village, which was six miles away, located on the north side of the river, about 16 miles below where Lewis's River enters. This chief is influential, not just in his own nation but also with neighboring tribes. The village consists of 15 large mat lodges. Currently, they seem to subsist mainly on a type of mullet weighing from 1 to 3 pounds, as well as various roots that the plains provide in abundance. They also catch a few white salmon trout. Yel lep-pet spoke to his village on our behalf, urging them to provide us with firewood and food, and he set an example by bringing us an armful of wood and a plate with three roasted mullets. Others soon followed suit with the firewood, and we quickly found ourselves with a good supply. They burn the stems of shrubs from the plains since there’s no timber in this area. We bought four dogs from the villagers, and the group had a hearty supper after being on short rations for nearly two days. The Indians left when we asked them to this evening and behaved very well. They told us that there was a good road from the Columbia River directly opposite this village to the entrance of Kooskooske on the south side of Lewis's River. They also mentioned that there were plenty of deer and antelope along the road with good water and grass. We knew that if the terrain allowed for a road in that direction, it could shorten the route by at least 80 miles. The Indians said the land was level and the road was good, so we didn’t hesitate to follow the route recommended by our guide and confirmed by Yel lep-pet and others. We decided to move our horses over early in the morning. We covered 31 miles today.
[Lewis, April 28, 1806]
Monday April 28th 1806. This morning early Yellept brought a very eligant white horse to our camp and presented him to Capt. C. signifying his wish to get a kettle but on being informed that we had already disposed of every kettle we could possibly spear he said he was content with whatever he thought proper to give him. Capt. C. gave him his swoard a hundred balls and powder and some sail articles with which he appeared perfectly satisfyed. it was necessary before we entered on our rout through the plains where we were to meet with no lodges or resident indians that we should lay in a stock of provision and not depend altogether on the gun. we directed Frazier to whom we have intrusted the duty of makeing those purchases to lay in as many fat dogs as he could procure; he soon obtained ten. being anxious to depart we requested the Cheif to furnish us with canoes to pass the river, but he insisted on our remaining with him this day at least, that he would be much pleased if we would conset to remain two or three, but he would not let us have canoes to leave him today. that he had sent for the Chym nap'-pos his neighbours to come down and join his people this evening and dance for us. we urged the necessity of our going on immediately in order that we might the sooner return to them with the articles which they wished but this had no effect, he said that the time he asked could not make any considerable difference. I at length urged that there was no wind blowing and that the river was consequently in good order to pass our horses and if he would furnish us with canoes for that purpose we would remain all night at our present encampment, to this proposition he assented and soon produced us a couple of canoes by means of which we passed our horses over the river safely and bubbled them as usual. we found a Shoshone woman, prisoner among these people by means of whome and Sahcahgarweah we found the means of conversing with the Wollahwollahs. we conversed with them for several hours and fully satisfyed all their enquiries with rispect to ourselves and the objects of our pursuit. they were much pleased. they brought several diseased persons to us for whom they requested some medical aid. one had his knee contracted by the rheumatism, another with a broken arm &c to all of which we administered much to the gratification of those poor wretches. we gave them some eye-water which I beleive will render them more essential service than any other article in the medical way which we had it in our power to bestoe on them. soar eyes seem to be a universal complaint amonge these people; I have no doubt but the fine sand of these plains and river contribute much to this disorder. ulsers and irruptions of the skin on various parts of the body are also common diseases among them. a little before sunset the Chymnahpos arrived; they were about 100 men and a few women; they joined the Wallahwollahs who were about the same number and formed a half circle arround our camp where they waited very patiently to see our party dance. the fiddle was played and the men amused themselves with dancing about an hour. we then requested the Indians to dance which they very cheerfully complyed with; they continued their dance untill 10 at night. the whole assemblage of indians about 550 men women and children sung and danced at the same time. most of them stood in the same place and merely jumped up to the time of their music. some of the men who were esteemed most brave entered the space arrond which the main body were formed in solid column, and danced in a circular manner sidewise. at 10 P.M. the dance concluded and the natives retired; they were much gratifyed with seeing some of our party join them in their dance.
Monday, April 28th, 1806. This morning, Yellept brought a very elegant white horse to our camp and gave it to Capt. C., indicating his wish to get a kettle. After being told that we had already given away all the kettles we could spare, he said he was fine with whatever else we could offer. Capt. C. gave him his sword, a hundred balls, and some sailing items, which made him very satisfied. Before we set out on our route through the plains, where we wouldn't meet any lodges or resident Indians, we needed to stock up on provisions and not rely entirely on hunting. We instructed Frazier, who we entrusted with the task of making those purchases, to get as many fat dogs as possible; he soon found ten. Eager to leave, we asked the Chief for canoes to cross the river, but he insisted that we stay with him for at least the day. He would be very pleased if we could stay two or three days, but he wouldn't allow us to have canoes to leave today. He said he had invited the Chym nap'-pos, his neighbors, to come down this evening and dance for us. We stressed the importance of leaving immediately so we could return to them sooner with the items they wanted, but this had no effect. He said that the time he requested wouldn’t make much of a difference. Eventually, I pointed out that there was no wind and the river was in good shape for crossing our horses. He agreed to provide canoes for that purpose, and we promised to stay at our current camp for the night. He soon provided us with a couple of canoes, which allowed us to safely get our horses across the river and care for them as usual. We found a Shoshone woman who was a prisoner among these people, and with her help and that of Sahcahgarweah, we managed to communicate with the Wollahwollahs. We chatted with them for several hours and answered all their questions about ourselves and our goals. They were quite pleased. They brought several sick individuals to us, asking for medical help. One had a knee stiffened by rheumatism, another had a broken arm, etc. We treated all of them, much to their relief. We gave them some eye drops, which I believe will provide them with more benefit than any other medical service we could offer. Sore eyes seem to be a common issue among these people; I’m sure the fine sand from these plains and river contributes significantly to this problem. Ulcers and skin irritations on various parts of the body are also frequent ailments among them. Shortly before sunset, the Chym nap'-pos arrived; they were about a hundred men and a few women. They joined the Wollahwollahs, who were about the same size, and formed a half-circle around our camp, patiently waiting to see our party dance. A fiddle was played, and the men entertained themselves with dancing for about an hour. We then asked the Indians to dance, which they happily agreed to. They continued their dance until 10 PM. The whole group of about 550 men, women, and children sang and danced at the same time. Most stayed in place and only jumped to the beat of the music. Some of the bravest men entered the space around which the main group formed a solid column and danced circularly. At 10 PM, the dance concluded, and the natives left; they were very pleased to see some of our group join in their dance.
[Clark, April 28, 1806]
Monday April 28th 1806 This morning early the Great Chief Yel lip pet brought a very eligant white horse to our Camp and presented him to me Signifying his wish to get a kittle but being informed that we had already disposed of every kittle we could possibly Spare he Said he was Content with what ever I thought proper to give him. I gave him my Swoard, 100 balls & powder and Some Small articles of which he appeared perfectly Satisfied. it was necessary before we entered on our rout through the plains where we were to meet with no lodges or resident Indians that we Should lay in a Stock of provisions and not depend altogether on the gun. we derected R. Frazer to whome we have intrusted the duty of makeing the purchases, to lay in as maney fat dogs as he could procure; he Soon obtained 10. being anxious to depart we requested the Chief to furnish us with Canoes to pass the river, but he insisted on our remaining with him this day at least, that he would be much pleased if we would consent to remain two or 3 days, but he would not let us have Canoes to leave him this day. that he had Sent for the Chim-na-pums his neighbours to come down and join his people this evening and dance for us. We urged the necessity of our proceeding on imediately in order that we might the Sooner return to them, with the articles which they wishd. brought to them but this had no effect, he Said that the time he asked Could not make any Considerable difference. I at length urged that there was no wind blowing and that the river was consequently in good order to pass our horses and if he would furnish us with Canoes for that purpose
Monday, April 28th, 1806. This morning, the Great Chief Yel lip pet brought a very elegant white horse to our camp and presented it to me, expressing his wish to receive a kettle. When I informed him that we had already given away all the kettles we could spare, he said he was content with whatever I thought was proper to give him. I gave him my sword, 100 balls and powder, and some small items, of which he seemed perfectly satisfied. It was necessary, before we started on our route through the plains where we would encounter no lodges or resident Indians, to stock up on provisions and not rely solely on hunting. We instructed R. Frazer, who we entrusted with the responsibility of making the purchases, to get as many fat dogs as he could find; he quickly managed to obtain 10. Eager to depart, we asked the Chief to provide us with canoes to cross the river, but he insisted that we stay with him at least for the day, and he would be very pleased if we agreed to stay for two or three days. He refused to let us have canoes to leave today, claiming that he had sent for the Chim-na-pums, his neighbors, to come down and join his people tonight for a dance in our honor. We emphasized the urgency of continuing our journey so we could return to them sooner with the items they wanted, but this had no effect. He maintained that the time he requested wouldn't make a considerable difference. I finally pointed out that there was no wind blowing, and the river was therefore in good condition to ferry our horses, and if he could provide us with canoes for that purpose.
we would remain all night at our present encampment, to this proposition he assented and Soon produced a Canoe. I Saw a man who had his knee Contracted who had previously applyed to me for Some Medisene, that if he would fournish another Canoe I would give him Some Medisene. he readily Consented and went himself with his Canoe by means of which we passed our horses over the river Safely and hobbled them as usial-. We found a Sho Sho ne woman, prisoner among those people by means of whome and Sah-cah gah-weah, Shabono's wife we found means of Converceing with the Wallahwallfirs. we Conversed with them for Several hours and fully Satisfy all their enquiries with respect to our Selves and the Object of our pursute. they were much pleased. they brought Several disordered persons to us for whome they requested Some Medical aid. one had his knee contracted by the Rhumitism (whome is just mentioned above) another with a broken arm &c. to all of whome we administered much to the gratification of those pore wretches, we gave them Some eye water which I believe will render them more esential Sirvece than any other article in the Medical way which we had it in our power to bestow on them Sore eyes Seam to be a universial Complaint among those people; I have no doubt but the fine Sands of those plains and the river Contribute much to the disorder. The man who had his arm broken had it loosely bound in a peice of leather without any thing to Surport it. I dressed the arm which was broken Short above the wrist & Supported it with broad Sticks to keep it in place, put in a Sling and furnished him with Some lint bandages &c. to Dress it in future. a little before Sun Set the Chim nah poms arrived; they were about 100 men and a fiew women; they joined the Wallah wallahs who were about 150 men and formed a half Circle arround our camp where they waited verry patiently to See our party dance. the fiddle was played and the men amused themselves with danceing about an hour. we then requested the Indians to dance which they very Chearfully Complyed with; they Continued their dance untill 10 at night. the whole assemblage of Indians about 350 men women and Children Sung and danced at the Same time. most of them danced in the Same place they Stood and mearly jumped up to the time of their musick. Some of the men who were esteemed most brave entered the Space around which the main body were formed in Solid Column and danced in a Circular manner Side wise. at 10 P M. the dance ended and the nativs retired; they were much gratified in Seeing Some of our Party join them in their dance. one of their party who made himself the most Conspicious Charecter in the dance and Songs, we were told was a Medesene man & Could foretell things. that he had told of our Comeing into their Country and was now about to Consult his God the moon if what we Said was the truth &c. &c.
We decided to stay at our current campsite for the night. He agreed and soon brought forward a canoe. I saw a man with a contracted knee who had previously asked me for some medicine. I told him that if he could provide another canoe, I would give him some medicine. He quickly agreed and went himself with his canoe, which allowed us to safely get our horses across the river and hobble them as usual. We found a Shoshone woman, a prisoner among these people, through whom and with Sah-cah-gah-weah, Shabono's wife, we managed to communicate with the Wallahwallahs. We talked with them for several hours and answered all their questions about ourselves and our mission, and they seemed pleased. They brought us several injured individuals for whom they requested medical assistance. One man had his knee contracted due to rheumatism (the man mentioned earlier), another had a broken arm, and so on. We treated all of them, which greatly satisfied those poor souls. We gave them some eye drops, which I believe will provide more significant help than any other medical supplies we had to offer. Sore eyes seemed to be a universal issue among these people, likely due to the fine sands of the plains and the river contributing to the problem. The man with the broken arm had it loosely wrapped in a piece of leather without anything to support it. I treated the arm, which was broken just above the wrist, by stabilizing it with broad sticks, putting it in a sling, and giving him some lint bandages for future dressing. Just before sunset, the Chimnahpams arrived; there were about 100 men and a few women. They joined the Wallahwallahs, who had about 150 men, forming a half-circle around our camp where they patiently waited to see our party dance. The fiddle was played, and the men entertained themselves by dancing for about an hour. We then asked the Indians to dance, which they happily agreed to. They continued dancing until 10 PM. The entire group of about 350 men, women, and children sang and danced at the same time. Most of them danced in place, merely jumping to the rhythm of their music. Some of the bravest men entered the space around which the main body was formed in a solid column and danced sideways in a circular motion. At 10 PM, the dance ended, and the natives left, clearly pleased to see some of our party join them in their dance. One man who stood out in the dance and songs was said to be a medicine man who could predict things. He had foretold our arrival in their country and was now about to consult his god, the moon, to see if what we said was true, and so on.
[Lewis, April 29, 1806]
Tuesday April 29th 1806. This morning Yellept furnished us with two canoes and we began to transport our baggage over the river; we also sent a party of the men over to collect the horses. we purchased some dogs and shappellell this morning. we had now a store of 12 dogs for our voyage through the plains. by 11 A.M. we had passed the river with our party and baggage but were detained several hours in consequence of not being able to collect our horses. our guide now informed us that it was too late in the evening to reach an eligible place to encamp; that we could not reach any water before night. we therefore thought it best to remain on the Wallahwollah river about a mile from the Columbia untill the morning, and accordingly encamped on that river near a fish wear. this wear consists of two curtains of small willow switches matted together with four lines of withs of the same materials extening quite across the river, parrallel with eah other and about 6 feet assunder. those are supported by several parsels of poles placed in the manner before discribed of the fishing wears. these curtains of willow are either roled at one end for a few feet to permit the fish to pass or are let down at pleasure. they take their fish which at present are a mullet only of from one to five lbs., with small seines of 15 or 18 feet long drawn by two persons; these they drag down to the wear and raise the bottom of the seine against the willow curtain. they have also a small seine maniaged by one person it bags in the manner of the scooping net; the one side of the net is confined to a simicircular bow of half the size of a man's arm and about 5 feet long; the other side is confined to a strong string which being attatched to the extremities of the bow forms the cord line to the simicircle. The Wallahwollah river discharges itself into the Columbia on it's S. side 15 miles below the entrance of Lewis's river or the S. E. branch. a high range of hills pass the Columbia just below the entrance of this river. this is a handsome stream about 41/2 feet deep and 50 yds. wide; it's bed is composed of gravel principally with some sand and mud; the banks are abrupt but not high, tho it dose not appear to overflow; the water is clear. the indians inform us that it has it's surces in the range of mountains in view of us to the E and S. E. these mountains commence a little to the south of Mt. Hood and extending themselves in a N. Eastwardly direction terminate near a Southen branch of Lewis's river short of the Rocky mountains. The Towannahiooks river, river LaPage and the Wollah-wollah rivers all take their rise on the N side of these mountains; two principal branches of the first of these take their rise in Mountains Jefferson and hood. these mountains are covered with snow at present tho do not appear high; they seperate the waters of the Multnomah from those of the Columbia river. they appear to be about 65 or 70 miles distant from hence. The Snake indian prisoner informed us that at some distance in the large plains to the South of those mountains there was a large river runing to the N. W. which was as wide as the Columbia at this place which is nearly one mile. this account is no doubt some what exagerated but it serves to evince the certainty of the Multnomah being a very large river and that it's waters are seperated from the Columbia by those mountains and that with the aid of a southwardly branch of Lewis's river which passes arrond the eastern extremity of those mountains, it must water that vast tract of country extending from those mountains to the waters of the gulph of California. and no doubt it heads with the Yellowstone river and the del Nord. we gave small medals to two inferior cheifs of this nation and they each presented us a fine horse in return we gave them sundry articles and among others one of my case pistols and several hundred rounds of amunition. there are 12 other lodges of the Wollahwollah nation on this river a little distance below our camp. 12 these as well as those beyond the Columbia appear to depend on this fishing wear for their subsistence. these people as well as the Chymnahpos are very well dressed, much more so particularly their women than they were as we decended the river last fall most of them have long shirts and leggings, good robes and mockersons. their women wear the truss when they cannot procure the shirt, but very few are seen with the former at this moment. I presume the success of their winters hunt has produced this change in their attire. they all cut their hair in their forehead and most of the men wear the two cews over each sholder in front of the body; some have the addition of a few small plats formed of the earlocks and others tigh a small bundle of the docked foretop in front of the forehead. their ornaments are such as discribed of the nations below and are woarn in a similar manner. they insisted on our dancinq this evening but it rained a little the wind blew hard and the weather was cold, we therefore did not indulge them.
Tuesday, April 29th, 1806. This morning, Yellept provided us with two canoes, and we started moving our luggage across the river. We also sent a group of men to gather the horses. We bought some dogs and shappellell this morning. Now we had a total of 12 dogs for our journey across the plains. By 11 A.M., we had crossed the river with our group and luggage but were delayed for several hours because we couldn't gather our horses. Our guide told us it was too late in the evening to find a good place to camp and that we wouldn't reach any water before nightfall. We decided it was best to stay on the Wallahwollah River, about a mile from the Columbia, until morning, so we set up camp near a fish weir. This weir consists of two curtains made of small willow branches woven together with four lines of the same materials stretching completely across the river, parallel to each other and about 6 feet apart. These are supported by several poles placed in the same way described for fishing weirs. The willow curtains are either rolled at one end for a few feet to let fish pass or can be lowered as needed. They catch fish, which are currently only mullet weighing from one to five lbs., using small seines that are 15 or 18 feet long, drawn by two people; they drag these down to the weir and lift the seine's bottom against the willow curtain. They also use a small seine managed by one person, which functions like a scoop net; one side of the net is attached to a semicircular bow about the length of a man's arm and around 5 feet long, while the other side is tied to a strong string that connects the ends of the bow, forming the cord line for the semicircle. The Wallahwollah River flows into the Columbia on its south side, 15 miles below the mouth of Lewis's River, or the southeast branch. A high range of hills runs along the Columbia just below where this river enters. This is a beautiful stream about 4.5 feet deep and 50 yards wide; its bed is mainly gravel with some sand and mud; the banks are steep but not high, and it doesn't seem to overflow; the water is clear. The Indians tell us it has its sources in the mountain range visible to us to the east and southeast. These mountains start just south of Mt. Hood and stretch northeast, ending near a southern branch of Lewis's River, short of the Rocky Mountains. The Towannahiooks River, LaPage River, and Wollah-wollah Rivers all originate on the north side of these mountains; two main branches of the first of these come from Mounts Jefferson and Hood. These mountains are currently covered in snow but don’t appear very high; they separate the waters of the Multnomah from those of the Columbia River. They seem to be about 65 or 70 miles away from here. A Snake Indian prisoner told us that some distance in the vast plains south of those mountains is a large river running northwest, as wide as the Columbia here, which is nearly a mile. This account might be somewhat exaggerated, but it suggests that the Multnomah is indeed a very large river and that its waters are separated from the Columbia by those mountains. With the help of a southward branch of Lewis's River, which curves around the eastern edge of those mountains, it likely drains that vast area from the mountains to the waters of the Gulf of California. It probably connects with the Yellowstone River and the Del Norte. We gave small medals to two lesser chiefs of this nation, and in return, they each presented us with a fine horse. We gave them several items, including one of my pistols and several hundred rounds of ammunition. There are 12 other lodges of the Wollahwollah nation on this river, a little way below our camp. These, as well as those beyond the Columbia, seem to rely on this fishing weir for their livelihood. These people, along with the Chymnahpos, are dressed much better now, especially the women, than they were when we traveled down the river last fall. Most of them wear long shirts, leggings, good robes, and moccasins. Their women wear a truss when they can’t get a shirt, but very few are seen with those at this moment. I assume the success of their winter hunt has led to this change in their clothing. They all cut their hair at the forehead, and most of the men wear two queues over each shoulder in front of their bodies; some have small braids of their hair, while others tie a small bundle of trimmed hair at the front of their foreheads. Their ornaments are similar to those of the tribes below and are worn in a similar style. They insisted on our dancing this evening, but it rained a bit, the wind blew hard, and the weather was cold, so we decided not to indulge them.
[Clark, April 29, 1806]
Tuesday April 29th 1806 This Morning Yelleppit furnished us with 2 Canoes, and We began to transport our baggage over the river; we also Sent a party of the men over to collect our horses. we purchased Some deer and chappellell this morning. we had now a Store of 12 dogs for our voyage through the plains. by 11 A.M. we had passed the river with our party and baggage but were detained Several hours in consequence of not being able to Collect our horses. our guide now informed us that it was too late in the evening to reach an eligible place to encamp; that we Could not reach any water before night. we therefore thought it best to remain on the Wallah wallah river about a mile from the Columbia untill the morning, accordingly encampd on the river near a fish Wear. this weare Consists of two Curtains of Small willows wattled together with four lines of withes of the Same Materials extending quite across the river, parralal with each other and about 6 feet asunder. those are Supported by Several parrelals of poles placed in this manner those Curtains of willows is either roled at one end for a fiew feet to permit the fish to pass or are let down at pleasure. they take their fish which at present are a Mullet only of from one to 5 pounds Wt. with Small Seines of 15 or 18 feet long drawn by two persons; these they drag down to the Wear and rase the bottom of the seine against the willow Curtain. they have also a Small Seine managed by one person, it bags in the manner of the Scooping Nets; the one Side of the Net is Confined to a Simicircular bow of half the Size of a mans arm and about 5 feet long, the other Side is confined to a Strong String which being attatched to the extremities of the bow forms the Cord line to the Simicurcle. The Wallah wallah River discharges it's Self into the Columbia on it's South Side 15 miles below the enterance of Lewis's River, or the S. E. branch. a range of hills pass the Columbia just below the enterance of this river. this is a handsom Stream about 41/2 feet deep and 50 yards wide; it's bead is composed of gravel principally with Some Sand and Mud; the banks are abrupt but not high, tho it does not appear to overflow; the water is Clear. the Indians inform us that it has it's Source in the range of Mountains in view of us to the E. and S. E. these Mountains commence a little to the South of Mt. Hood and extend themselves in a S Eastwardly direction terminateing near the Southern banks of Lewis's river Short of the rockey Mountains. Ta wan nahiooks river, river Lapage and ____ River all take their rise on those Mountains. the two principal branches of the first of those take their rise in the Mountain's, Jefferson and Hood. those Mountains are Covered at present with Snow. those S W. Mountains are Covered with Snow at present tho do not appear high. they Seperate the Waters of the Multnomah from those of the Columbia river. they appear to be 65 or 70 miles distant from hence. The Snake indian prisoner informed us that at Some distance in the large plains to the South of those Mountains there was a large river running to the N. W. which was as wide as the Columbia at this place, which is nearly 1 mile. this account is no doubt Somewhat exagurated but it Serves to evince the Certainty of the Multnomah being a very large River and that it's waters are Seperated from the Columbia by those Mountains, and that with the aid of a Southwardly branch of Lewis's river which pass around the Eastern extremity of those mountains, it must water that vast tract of Country extending from those Mountains to the Waters of the Gulf of Callifornia. and no doubt it heads with the Rochejhone and Del Nord.
Tuesday, April 29th, 1806 This morning, Yelleppit provided us with 2 canoes, and we started moving our baggage across the river. We also sent a group of men to gather our horses. We bought some deer and chappellell this morning. We now had a total of 12 dogs for our journey through the plains. By 11 A.M., we had crossed the river with our group and luggage but were delayed several hours because we couldn’t round up our horses. Our guide informed us that it was too late in the evening to find a suitable spot to camp and that we wouldn’t reach any water before night. Therefore, we decided it was best to stay on the Wallah Wallah River, about a mile from the Columbia, until morning, and we set up camp on the river near a fish weir. This weir consists of two barriers of small willows woven together with four lines of the same material extending completely across the river, parallel to each other and about 6 feet apart. They are supported by several parallel poles. One end of these willow barriers is rolled up a few feet to allow fish to pass or can be lowered as needed. They catch fish, which currently are mullet weighing between one and five pounds, using small seines that are 15 or 18 feet long, pulled by two people; they drag them down to the weir and raise the bottom of the seine against the willow barrier. They also have a small seine operated by one person, which works like a scooping net; one side of the net is attached to a semicircular bow about the length of a man's arm and about 5 feet long, while the other side is tied to a sturdy string that connects the ends of the bow, forming the cord line to the semicircle. The Wallah Wallah River flows into the Columbia on its south side, 15 miles below the entrance of Lewis’s River, or the southeast branch. A range of hills runs past the Columbia just below the entrance of this river. This is a lovely stream about 4 ½ feet deep and 50 yards wide; its bed is mostly gravel with some sand and mud; the banks are steep but not high, and it doesn’t seem to overflow; the water is clear. The locals tell us that it originates in the mountain range we can see to the east and southeast. These mountains begin just south of Mount Hood and extend southeast, ending near the southern banks of Lewis's River, short of the Rocky Mountains. The Tawannahoops River, Lapage River, and ____ River all originate from these mountains. The two main branches of the first of these rivers start in the Jefferson and Hood mountains. These mountains are currently covered in snow, and while they don’t seem particularly high, they separate the waters of the Multnomah from those of the Columbia River. They appear to be about 65 or 70 miles away from here. The Snake Indian prisoner informed us that a large river flows northwest in the vast plains south of these mountains, which is as wide as the Columbia here, nearly a mile across. This account is undoubtedly somewhat exaggerated, but it illustrates the certainty that the Multnomah is a very large river and that its waters are separated from the Columbia by these mountains. With the help of a southward branch of Lewis's River, which flows around the eastern end of these mountains, it must water that vast expanse of land stretching from those mountains to the waters of the Gulf of California. There’s no doubt it connects with the Rochejhone and Del Nord.
We gave Small Medals to two inferior Chiefs of this nation, and they each furnished us with a fine horse, in return we gave them Sundery articles among which was one of Capt Lewis's Pistols & Several hundred rounds of Amunition. there are 12 other Lodges of the Wallahwallah Nation on this river a Short distance below our Camp. those as well as those beyond the Columbia appear to depend on their fishing weres for their Subsistance. those people as well as the Chym na poms are very well disposed, much more So particular their women than they were when we decended the river last fall. Most of them have long Shirts and leggins, good robes and Mockersons. their women were the truss when they Cannot precure the Shirt, but very fiew are Seen with the former at the present. I prosume the Suckcess of their Winters hunt has produced this change in their attere. they all Cut their hair in the fore head, and most of the men ware the two Cews over each Sholder in front of the body; Some have the addition of a fiew Small plats formed of the eare locks, and others tigh a Small bundle of the docked foretop in front of the fore head. their orniments are Such as discribed of the nativs below, and are worn in a Similar manner. they insisted on our danceing this evening but it rained a little the wind blew hard and the weather was Cold, we therefore did not indulge them.—Several applyed to me to day for medical aides, one a broken arm another inward fever and Several with pains across their loins, and Sore eyes. I administered as well as I could to all. in the evining a man brought his wife and a horse both up to me. the horse he gave me as a present. and his wife who was verry unwell the effects of violent Coalds was placed before me. I did not think her Case a bad one and gave Such medesine as would keep her body open and raped her in flannel. left Some Simple Medesene to be taken. we also gave Some Eye water 1 G. of Ela v V. & 2 grs. of Sacchm Stry. to an ounce of water and in that perpotion. Great No. of the nativs about us all night.
We awarded Small Medals to two lesser Chiefs of this nation, and in return, they provided us with a fine horse. We gave them various items, including one of Capt Lewis's Pistols and several hundred rounds of ammunition. There are 12 other Lodges of the Wallahwallah Nation downriver from our Camp. Both they and those beyond the Columbia seem to rely on fishing for their livelihoods. These people, along with the Chym na poms, are much friendlier now, especially their women, compared to when we traveled downriver last fall. Most of them wear long shirts and leggings, good robes, and moccasins. The women wore husks when they couldn't get shirts, but very few are seen with them now. I assume the success of their winter hunt has brought about this change in their clothing. They all cut their hair at the forehead, and most men wear two queues over each shoulder in front of their bodies; some even have small braids made from their hair, while others tie a small bundle of their cropped foretop at the forehead. Their ornaments are similar to those of the natives we encountered downstream and are worn in a comparable manner. They insisted on us dancing this evening, but it rained lightly, the wind was strong, and the weather was cold, so we didn't entertain them. Several people came to me today seeking medical help: one with a broken arm, another with an inward fever, and several with pain across their lower backs and sore eyes. I provided as much assistance as I could to all. In the evening, a man brought his wife and a horse to me. He gifted me the horse and presented his wife, who was very unwell due to severe colds. I didn't think her case was too serious, so I gave her some medicine to keep her body regulated and wrapped her in flannel. I left some simple medicine for her to take. We also made some eye wash using 1 grain of elav v. and 2 grains of saccharum strychnos in an ounce of water, mixing it in that proportion. A large number of the natives stayed around us all night.
[Lewis, April 30, 1806]
Wednesday April 30th 1806. This morning we had some difficulty in collecting our horses notwithstanding we had bubbled and picquited those we obtained of these people. we purchased two other horses this morning and several dogs. we exchanged one of our most indifferent horses for a very good one with the Chopunnish man who has his family with him. this man has a daughter new arrived at the age of puberty, who being in a certain situation is not permitted to ascociate with the family but sleeps at a distance from her father's camp and when traveling follows at some distance behind. in this state I am informed that the female is not permitted to eat, nor to touch any article of a culinary nature or manly occupation. at 10 A.M. we had collected all our horses except the white horse which Yellept had given Capt. C. the whole of the men soon after returned without being able to find this horse. I lent my horse to Yellept to surch Capt. C's about half an hour after he set out our Chopunnish man brought up Capt. C's horse we now determined to leave one man to bring on my horse when Yellept returned and to proceed on with the party accordingly we took leave of these friendly honest people the Wollahwollahs and departed at 11 A.M. accompanyed by our guide and the Chopunnish man and family. we continued our rout N. 30 E. 14 ms. through an open level sandy plain to a bold Creek 10 yds. wide. this stream is a branch of the Wallahwollah river into which it discharges itself about six miles above the junction of that river with the Columbia. it takes it's rise in the same range of mountains to the East of the sources of the main branch of the same. it appears to be navigable for canoes; it is deep and has a bold current. there are many large banks of pure sand which appear to have been drifted up by the wind to the hight of 15 or 20 feet, lying in many parts of the plain through which we passed today. this plain as usual is covered with arromatic shrubs hurbatious plants and a short grass. many of those plants produce those esculent roots which form a principal part of the subsistence of the natives. among others there is one which produces a root somewhat like the sweet pittaitoe.—we encamped at the place we intersepted the creek where we had the pleasure once more to find an abundance of good wood for the purpose of making ourselves comfortable fires, which has not been the case since we left rock fort camp. Drewyer killed a beaver and an otter; a pan of the former we reserved for ourselves and gave the indians the ballance. these people will not eat the dog but feast heartily on the otter which is vastly inferior in my estimation, they sometimes also eat their horses, this indeed is common to all the indians who possess this annimal in the plains of Columbia; but it is only done when necessity compells them.—the narrow bottom of this creek is very fertile, tho the plains are poor and sandy. the hills of the creek are generally abrupt and rocky. there is a good store of timber on this creek at least 20 fold more than on the Columbia river itself. it consists of Cottonwood, birch, the crimson haw, redwillow, sweetwillow, chokecherry yellow currants, goosberry, whiteberryed honeysuckle rose bushes, seven bark, and shoemate. I observed the corngrass and rushes in some parts of the bottom. Reubin Feilds overtook us with my horse. our stock of horses has now encresed to 23 and most of them excellent young horses, but much the greater portion of them have soar backs. these indians are cruell horse-masters; they ride hard, and their saddles are so illy constructed that they cannot avoid wounding the backs of their horses; but reguardless of this they ride them when the backs of those poor annimals are in a horrid condition.
Wednesday, April 30, 1806. This morning we had some trouble gathering our horses, even though we had corralled and rounded up the ones we got from these people. We bought two more horses and several dogs. We traded one of our least valuable horses for a really good one from a Chopunnish man who was with his family. This man has a daughter who recently reached puberty; because of certain customs, she's not allowed to be around the family and sleeps away from her father's camp, following at a distance while traveling. While in this state, I was told that a girl is not allowed to eat or touch anything related to cooking or male activities. By 10 A.M., we had all our horses rounded up except the white horse that Yellept gave to Capt. C. Shortly after, the men returned without finding the horse. I lent my horse to Yellept to search for Capt. C’s horse and about half an hour later, our Chopunnish man brought back Capt. C's horse. We decided to leave one man behind to bring my horse when Yellept returned and continue on with the group. We said goodbye to the friendly and honest Wollahwollahs and left at 11 A.M., accompanied by our guide and the Chopunnish man and his family. We continued our route N. 30 E. for 14 miles through a flat, sandy plain until we reached a wide creek that is about 10 yards across. This creek is a tributary of the Wallahwollah River, joining it about six miles before it flows into the Columbia River. It originates in the same mountain range east of the main branch's source. It seems navigable by canoe; it’s deep and has a strong current. There are many large banks of pure sand, shaped by the wind to a height of 15 to 20 feet, scattered throughout the plain we crossed today. This plain is typically filled with aromatic shrubs, herbaceous plants, and short grass. Many of these plants produce edible roots that are a major food source for the natives. Among them is one that produces a root similar to sweet potato. We set up camp at the point where we intercepted the creek, where we were pleased to find plenty of good wood to make ourselves comfortable fires, which had been a challenge since leaving Rock Fort Camp. Drewyer killed a beaver and an otter; we kept a portion of the beaver for ourselves and gave the rest to the Indians. These people won’t eat dog but enjoy feasting on otter, which I find quite inferior; they sometimes eat their horses, which is common among all the Indians who own horses in the Columbia plains, but they only do so out of necessity. The narrow bottom of this creek is quite fertile, although the plains are poor and sandy. The hills along the creek are generally steep and rocky. There’s a good amount of timber along this creek, at least 20 times more than on the Columbia River itself. It includes cottonwood, birch, crimson haw, red willow, sweet willow, chokecherry, yellow currants, gooseberry, white-berried honeysuckle, rose bushes, seven bark, and shoemate. I noticed corn grass and rushes in some areas of the bottom. Reubin Fields caught up with us with my horse. Our herd now numbers 23 horses, most of which are excellent young horses, but many have sore backs. These Indians are cruel horsemen; they ride hard, and their saddles are so poorly made that they inevitably injure their horses’ backs. Regardless, they continue to ride them even when the backs of these poor animals are in terrible condition.
[Clark, April 30, 1806]
Wednesday April 30th 1806. This morning we had Some dificuelty in Collecting our horses notwithstanding we had hobbled & Picqueted those we obtained of those people. we purchased two other horses this morning and 4 dogs. we exchanged one of our most indeferent horses for a very good one with the Choponnish man who has his family with him. this man has a doughter now arived at the age of puberty who being in a certain Situation-is not permited to acoiate with the family but Sleeps at a distance from her father's Camp, and when traveling follows at Some distance be-hind. in this State I am informed that the female is not permited to eat, nor to touch any article of a culinary nature or manly occupation. at 10 A.M. we had Collected all our horses except the White horse which Yelleppit the Great Chief had given me. the whole of the men haveing returned without being able to find this hors. I informed the chief and he mounted Capt Lewis's horse and went in Serch of the horse himself. about half an hour after the Chopunnish man brought my horse. we deturmined to proceed on with the party leaving one man to bring up Capt L.-s horse when Yelleppit Should return. We took leave of those honest friendly people the Wallah wallahs and departed at 11 A.M. accompanied by our guide and the Chopunnish man and family. we Continued our rout N. 30° E. 14 ms. through an open leavel Sandy Plain to a bold Creek 10 yards wide. this stream is a branch of the Wallahwallah river, and takes it's rise in the same range of mountains to the East of the main branch. deep and has a bold Current. there are maney large banks of pure Sand which appear to have been drifted up by the wind to the hight of 20 or 30 feet, lying in maney parts of the plains through which we passed to day. This plain as usial is covered with arromatic Shrubs, hurbatious plants and tufts of Short grass. Maney of those plants produce those esculent roots which forms a principal part of the Subsistance of the Nativs. among others there is one which produce a root Somewhat like the Sweet potato. We encamped at the place we intersepted the Creek where we had the pleasure once more to find a Sufficency of wood for the purpose of makeing ourselves comfortable fires, which has not been the Case Since we left Rock fort Camp below the falls. Drewyer killed a beaver and an otter. the narrow bottoms of this Creek is fertile. tho the plains are pore & Sandy. the hills of the Creek are generaly abrupt and rocky. there is Some timber on this Creek. it consists of Cotton wood, birch, the Crimson haw, red willow, Sweet willow, Choke Cherry, yellow Current, goose berry, white berried honey suckle, rose bushes, Seven bark, Shoemate &c. &c. rushes in Some parts of the bottoms.
Wednesday, April 30th, 1806. This morning, we had some difficulty rounding up our horses even though we had hobbled and tied up the ones we got from those people. We bought two more horses this morning and four dogs. We traded one of our less valuable horses for a really good one with a Chopunnish man who has his family with him. This man has a daughter who has just reached puberty; since she’s in a certain situation, she isn’t allowed to be with the family but sleeps away from her father's camp and follows along at a distance when traveling. In this state, I’ve been told that females aren’t allowed to eat or touch anything related to cooking or men’s tasks. At 10 A.M., we gathered all our horses except the white horse that Yelleppit, the great chief, had given me. All the men returned without being able to find this horse. I informed the chief, and he mounted Captain Lewis's horse and went to search for the horse himself. About half an hour later, the Chopunnish man brought my horse back. We decided to continue on with the group, leaving one man to bring up Captain Lewis's horse when Yelleppit returned. We said goodbye to the honest, friendly Wallah Wallahs and left at 11 A.M., accompanied by our guide and the Chopunnish man and his family. We continued our route N. 30° E. for 14 miles through an open, sandy plain to a wide creek, 10 yards across. This stream is a branch of the Wallahwallah River and rises in the same mountain range east of the main branch. It’s deep and has a strong current. There are many large banks of pure sand that seem to have been blown up by the wind to heights of 20 or 30 feet, found in many parts of the plains we passed through today. This plain, as usual, is covered with aromatic shrubs, herbaceous plants, and clumps of short grass. Many of these plants produce edible roots, which are a staple for the natives. Among others, there's one that produces a root similar to the sweet potato. We camped at the spot where we intercepted the creek, where we were pleased to find enough wood to make ourselves comfortable fires, which has not been the case since we left Rock Fort Camp near the falls. Drewyer killed a beaver and an otter. The narrow bottoms of this creek are fertile, although the plains are poor and sandy. The hills along the creek are generally steep and rocky. There is some timber along this creek, including cottonwood, birch, crimson hawthorn, red willow, sweet willow, choke cherry, yellow currant, gooseberry, white-berried honeysuckle, rose bushes, seven-bark, shoemate, etc. There are also rushes in some parts of the bottoms.
R. Fields over took us with Capt Lewis's horse our Stock of horses have now increased to 23 and most of them excellent young horses, but much the greatest part of them have Sore backs. those Indians are cruel horse masters; they ride hard and their Saddles illey constructed. &c. &c.
R. Fields caught up with us using Captain Lewis's horse. Our number of horses has now grown to 23, and most of them are excellent young horses, but the majority of them have sore backs. Those Indians are harsh when it comes to handling horses; they ride hard, and their saddles are poorly made, and so on.
[Lewis, May 1, 1806]
Thursday May 1st 1806. We collected our horses tolerably early this morning took and set out a little after 7 A.M. we pursued the indian road which led us up the creek about nine miles, here the Chopunnish man wo was in front with me informed that an old unbeaten tract which he pointed out to the left was our nearest rout. we halted the party and directed them to unload and let their horses graize untill our guide came up who was at some distance behind. I wished to obtain good information of this newly recommended tract before I could consent to leave the present road which seemed to lead us in the proper direction was level and furnished with wood and water. when the guide arrived he seemed much displeased with the other, he assured us that the rout up the creek was the nearest, and much the best, that if we took the other we would be obliged to remain here untill tomorrow morning, and then travel a whole day before we could reach water, and that there was no wood; the other agreed that this was the case. we therefore did not hesitate to pursue the rout recommended by the guide. the creek, it's bottom lands, and the appearance of the plains were much as those of esterday only with this difference that the latter were not so sandy. we had sent out four hunters this morning two on foot and 2 on horseback they joined us while we halted here. Drewyer had killed a beaver. at 1 P.M. we resumed our march, leaving the Chopunnish man and his family; he had determined to remain at that place untill the next morning and then pursue the rout he had recommended to us. he requested a small quantity of powder and lead which we gave him. we traveled 17 miles this evening, making a total of 26 Ms. and encamped. the first 3 miles of our afternoons march was through a similar country with that of the forenoon; the creek bottoms then became higher and widened to the extent of from 2 to 3 Ms. the hills on the N. side were low but those on the opposite side retained their hight. we saw a number of deer of which Labuish killed one. the timber on the creek becomes more abundant and it's extensive bottoms affords a pleasent looking country. the guide informs us that we shall now find a plenty of wood water and game quite to the Kooskooske. we saw a great number of the Curloos, some Grains, ducks, prarie larks and several speceis of sparrows common to the praries. I see very little difference between the apparent face of the country here and that of the plains of the Missouri only that these are not enlivened by the vast herds of buffaloe Elk &c which ornament the other. the courses and distances of this day are N. 45 E. 9 M. and N. 75 E. 17 M. along the Northern side of this creek to our encampment. some time after we had encamped three young men arrived from the Wallahwollah village bringing with them a steel trap belonging to one of our party which had been neglegently left behind; this is an act of integrity rarely witnessed among indians. during our stay with them they several times found the knives of the men which had been carelessly lossed by them and returned them. I think we can justly affirm to the honor of these people that they are the most hospitable, honest, and sincere people that we have met with in our voyage.
Thursday, May 1, 1806. We got our horses ready fairly early this morning and set out a little after 7 A.M. We followed the Indian trail that led us up the creek for about nine miles. At this point, the Chopunnish man who was in front with me mentioned that an old, less traveled path to the left was our closest route. We halted the group and told them to unload and let their horses graze until our guide, who was some distance behind, caught up. I wanted to get good information about this newly suggested path before agreeing to leave the current road, which seemed to be taking us in the right direction and was flat, with plenty of wood and water. When the guide arrived, he seemed unhappy with the other man. He assured us that the route up the creek was the closest and the best, warning that if we took the other trail, we would have to stay here until tomorrow morning and then travel all day to find water, with no wood available. The other man agreed with him. We didn’t hesitate to follow the guide’s recommended route. The creek, its bottom lands, and the appearance of the plains were much like yesterday, only this time the plains weren’t as sandy. We had sent out four hunters this morning—two on foot and two on horseback—and they joined us while we were resting here. Drewyer had killed a beaver. At 1 P.M., we continued our march, leaving the Chopunnish man and his family behind; he decided to stay there until the next morning and then take the route he suggested. He requested a small amount of powder and lead, which we gave him. We traveled 17 miles that evening, making a total of 26 miles, and set up camp. The first 3 miles of our afternoon march took us through similar terrain as the morning; then the creek bottoms rose and widened to about 2 to 3 miles. The hills on the north side were low, but those on the opposite side remained high. We saw several deer, and Labuish killed one. The timber along the creek became more plentiful, and its extensive bottom lands created a pleasant-looking area. The guide informed us that we would now find plenty of wood, water, and game all the way to the Kooskooske. We saw many curlews, some cranes, ducks, prairie larks, and various species of sparrows typical of the prairies. I noticed very little difference between the landscape here and the Missouri plains, except that these were not filled with the large herds of buffalo, elk, and so on that were common there. The courses and distances for today were N. 45 E. 9 miles and N. 75 E. 17 miles along the northern side of the creek to our campsite. Sometime after we set up camp, three young men arrived from the Wallahwollah village, bringing with them a steel trap that belonged to one of our party, which had been carelessly left behind; this act of integrity is rarely seen among Indians. During our time with them, they returned several knives that had been carelessly lost by our men. I think we can rightly say that these people are the most hospitable, honest, and sincere that we have encountered on our journey.
[Clark, May 1, 1806]
Thursday May 1st 1806. This morning we collected our horses and made an early Start, haveing preveously Sent a hed 4 hunters with derections to proceed up the Creek and kill every Species of game which they might meet with. the Small portion of rain which fell last night Caused the road to be much furmer and better than yesterday. the morning Cloudy and Cool. we proceeded up the Creek on the N. E. Side through a Countrey of less sand and Some rich bottoms on the Creek which is partially Supplyed with Small Cotton trees, willow, red willow, choke Cherry, white thorn, birch, elder, ____ rose & honey suckle. Great portion of these bottoms has been latterly burnt which has entirely distroyed the timbered growth. at the distance of nine miles we over took our hunters, they had killed one bever only at this place the road forked, one leaveing the Creek and the Corse of it is nearly North. the Chopunnish who had accompanied us with his family informed us that this was our best way. that it was a long distance without water. and advised us to Camp on the Creek at this place and in the morning to Set out early. This information perplexed us a little, in as much as the idea of going a days march without water thro an open Sandy plain and on a Course 50° out of our derection. we deturmined to unlode and wate for our Guide, or the Chopunnish man who had accompanied us from the long Narrows, who was in the rear with Drewyer our interpreter. on his arrival we enquired of him which was the best and most direct roade for us to take. he informed us that the road pointed out by his cumerade was through a open hilly and Sandy Countrey to the river Lewis's River, and was a long ways around, and that we Could not git to any water to day. the other roade up the creek was a more derect Course, plenty of water wood and only one hill in the whole distance and the road which he had always recomended to us. Some words took place between those two men the latter appeared in great pation Mounted his horse and Set out up the Creek. we Sent a man after him and brought him back informed him that we believed what he Said and Should imedeately after dinner proceed on the road up the Creek with him. we gave the former man Some powder and ball which had been promised him, and after an early dinner Set out up the Creek with our guide leaveing the Chopunnish man and his family encamped at the forks of the road where they intended to Stay untill the morning and proceed on the rout he had recommended to us. we traviled 17 miles this evening makeing a total of 26 mls. and encamped. the first 3 miles of our afternoons march was through a Simaler Country of that of the fore noon; the Creek bottoms then became higher and wider; to the extent of from 2 to 3 miles. we Saw Several Deer of which Labiech killed one. the timber on the Creek become more abundant and less burnt, and its extensive bottoms afford a pleasent looking Country. we Saw a Great number of Curloos, Some Crains, Ducks, prarie cocks, and Several Species of Sparrows common to the praries. I See Very little difference between the apparant face of the Country here and that of the plains of the Missouri. only that those are not enlivened by the vast herds of Buffalow, Elk &c. which animated those of the Missouri. The Courses & distances of this day are N. 45° E. 9 mls. & N. 75° E. 17 Miles allong the North Side of this Creek to our encampment. Sometime after we had encamped three young men arrived from the Wallah wallah Village bringing with them a Steel trap belonging to one of our party which had been negligently left behind; this is an act of integrity rearly witnessed among Indians. dureing our Stay with them they Several times found the knives of the men which had been Carefully lossed by them and returned them. I think we can justly affirm to the honor of those people that they are the most hospitable, honist and Sencere people that we have met with on our Voyage.-
Thursday, May 1st, 1806. This morning, we gathered our horses and started early, having previously sent four hunters ahead with instructions to go up the creek and kill any game they encountered. The small amount of rain that fell last night made the road much firmer and better than yesterday. The morning was cloudy and cool. We continued up the creek on the northeast side, passing through an area with less sand and some fertile bottoms along the creek, which had small cottonwood trees, willows, red willows, chokecherries, hawthorn, birch, elder, wild rose, and honeysuckle. A large portion of these bottoms had recently burned, completely destroying the tree growth. After nine miles, we caught up with our hunters; they had only killed one beaver. At this point, the road forked, with one path leaving the creek and heading nearly north. The Chopunnish man who had accompanied us with his family advised that this was the best route, but warned it was a long distance without water and suggested we camp by the creek here and leave early in the morning. This information puzzled us a bit since the thought of traveling a whole day without water through an open sandy plain on a course 50° off our direction was concerning. We decided to unload and wait for our guide, the Chopunnish man who had been trailing with Drewyer, our interpreter. When he arrived, we asked him which route was the best and most direct. He told us that the path suggested by his companion led through open, hilly, and sandy country to Lewis’s River and was a long detour, and that we wouldn’t find any water today. The other route up the creek was more direct, with plenty of water, wood, and only one hill along the entire distance—this was the route he always recommended. Some words were exchanged between the two men, and the latter seemed upset, mounted his horse, and rode up the creek. We sent a man after him to bring him back, informing him that we believed what he said and would immediately proceed up the creek with him after dinner. We gave the first man some powder and ball that we had promised him, and after an early dinner, we set out up the creek with our guide, leaving the Chopunnish man and his family camped at the fork where they planned to stay until morning and follow the route he had suggested. We traveled 17 miles that evening, totaling 26 miles, and made camp. The first three miles of our afternoon march were through countryside similar to the morning. The creek bottoms then became higher and wider, extending from 2 to 3 miles. We saw several deer, one of which Labiech killed. The timber along the creek grew denser and less burned, and its extensive bottoms provided a pleasant landscape. We spotted many curlews, some cranes, ducks, prairie chickens, and various types of sparrows common to the prairies. I see very little difference between the appearance of the land here and that of the Missouri plains, except that these are not lively with the vast herds of buffalo, elk, etc., which animated those of the Missouri. The course and distances covered today were N. 45° E. 9 miles and N. 75° E. 17 miles along the north side of the creek to our encampment. Sometime after we set up camp, three young men arrived from the Walla Walla village, bringing a steel trap that belonged to one of our party, which had been carelessly left behind. This act of integrity is rarely seen among Indians. During our stay with them, they often found and returned the knives of the men that had been carefully lost by them. I believe we can justly affirm that these people are the most hospitable, honest, and sincere that we have encountered on our journey.
[Lewis, May 2, 1806]
Friday May 2cd 1806. This morning we dispatched two hunters a head. we had much difficulty in collecting our horses. at 8 A.M. we obtained them all except the horse we obtained from the Chopunnish man whom we seperated from yesterday. we apprehended that this horse would make some attempts to rejoin the horses of this man and accordingly had him as we thought securely bubbled both before and at the side, but he broke the strings in the course of the night and absconded. we sent several men in different directions in surch of him. I engaged one of the young indians who overtook us last evening to return in surch of him. at half after 1 P.M. The indian and Joseph Feilds returned with the horse, they had found him on his way back about 17 Ms. I paid the indian the price stipulated for his services and we immediately loaded up and set forward. steered East 3 M. over a hilly road along the N. side of the Creek, wide bottom on S. side. a branch falls in on S. side which runs south towards the S. W. mountains which appear to be about 25 Ms. distant low yet covered with snow N. 75 E. 7 through an extensive level bottom. more timber than usual on the creek, some pine of the long leafed kind appears on the sides of the creek hills, also about 50 acres of well timbered pine land where we passed the creek at 4 m. on this course N. 45 E. 9 ms. repassed the creek at 4 M. and continued up a N. E. branch of the same which falls in about a mile below where we passed the main creek. the bottoms though which we passed were wide. the main creek boar to the S. and heads in the Mountains; it's bottoms are much narrower above where we passed it and the hills appear high. we passed the small creek at 83/4 from the commencement of this course and encamped on the N. side in a little bottom, having traveled 19 miles today. at this place the road leaves the creek and takes the open high plain. this creek is about 4 yds. wide and bears East as far as I could observe it. I observed considerable quantities of the qua-mash in the bottoms through which we passed this evening now in blume. there is much appearance of beaver and otter along these creeks. saw two deer at a distance; also observed many sandhill crains Curloos and other fowls common to the plains. the soil appears to improve as we advance on this road. our hunters killed a duck only. the three young men of the Wollahwollah nation continued with us. in the course of the day I observed them eat the inner part of the young and succulent stem of a large coarse plant with a ternate leaf, the leafets of which are three loabed and covered with a woolly pubersence. the flower and fructification resembles that of the parsnip this plant is very common in the rich lands on the Ohio and it's branches the Mississippi &c. I tasted of this plant found it agreeable and eat heartily of it without feeling any inconvenience.
Friday, May 2, 1806. This morning, we sent two hunters ahead. We had a lot of trouble rounding up our horses. By 8 A.M., we had all but one horse, the one we got from the Chopunnish man we separated from yesterday. We were worried that this horse would try to join the man's horses, so we tied him up securely on both sides. However, he broke the ties during the night and got away. We sent several men in different directions to search for him. I asked one of the young Indians who joined us last evening to go back and look for him. At around 1:30 P.M., the Indian and Joseph Feilds returned with the horse; they found him on his way back about 17 miles away. I paid the Indian the agreed price for his help, and we immediately loaded up and moved on, heading east for 3 miles along a hilly road on the north side of the creek, with a wide bottom on the south side. A branch comes in from the south, running south toward the southwestern mountains, which are about 25 miles away: low but still covered in snow, about N. 75 E. 7 miles through an extensive level bottom. There is more timber than usual on the creek; some long-leaf pine appears on the hillsides, along with about 50 acres of well-timbered pine land where we crossed the creek at 4 miles. Continuing on this course, N. 45 E. for 9 miles, we crossed the creek again at 4 miles and continued up a northeast branch of the same, which comes in about a mile below where we crossed the main creek. The bottoms we passed through were wide. The main creek flows south and heads into the mountains; its bottoms are much narrower above where we crossed, and the hills appear high. We passed a small creek at 8.75 miles from the start of this route and set up camp on the north side in a small bottom, having traveled 19 miles today. At this location, the road leaves the creek and moves into open high plains. This creek is about 4 yards wide and flows east as far as I could see. I noticed considerable quantities of the quamash blooming in the bottoms we passed through this evening. There are signs of beaver and otter along these creeks. I spotted two deer in the distance, along with many sandhill cranes, curlews, and other birds common to the plains. The soil seems to improve as we continue on this road. Our hunters only caught a duck today. The three young men from the Wollahwollah nation are still with us. During the day, I noticed them eating the tender inner part of the young, juicy stem of a large coarse plant with a ternate leaf, whose leaflets are three-lobed and covered in a woolly fuzz. The flowers and seed structures resemble those of the parsnip. This plant is very common in the rich soil of the Ohio and its branches, the Mississippi, etc. I tasted this plant and found it pleasant, eating a lot of it without feeling any discomfort.
[Clark, May 2, 1806]
Friday May 2nd 1806 This morning we dispatched two hunters a head. we had much dificuelty in Collecting our horses. at 8 A.M. we obtained them all except the horse we obtained from the Chopunnish man whome we Seperated from yesterday. we apprehended that this horse would make Some attempts to rejoin the horses of this man and accordingly had him as we thought Scurely hobbled both before and at the Side, but he broke the Strings in the Course of the night and absconded. we Sent Several men in different directions in Serch of him. and hired one of the men who joined us last night to prosue him and over take us & at 4 after 1 P.M. the indian and Joseph Fields returned with the horse they had found him on his way back about 17 miles. I paid the Indian the price Stipulated for his Services and we imediately loaded up and Set forward. East 3 miles over a hilly road along the N. Side of the Creek. wide bottoms on the S. Side. a branch falls in on the S. side which runds from the S W. Mountains, which appear to be about 25 m. distant low yet Covered with Snow. N. 75° E. 7 m. through an extencive leavel bottom. more timber than usial on the Creek. Some pine of the long leaf kind appear on the Creek hills. also about 50 acres of well timbered pine land where we passed the Creek at 4 m. on the Course. N. 45° E. 9 m. passed the Creek at 4 M. and Continued up on the N. E. Side. the bottoms wide. the main creek bear to the S. and head in the Mountains. we passed a Small Creek at 83/4 m. from the Commencement of this Course and encamped on the N. Side in a little bottom. haveing traviled 19 miles to day. at this place the road leaves the Creek and passes through the open high plains. this creek is 5 yds wide and bears East towards the Mts. I observed a Considerable quantity of the qua mash in the bottoms through which we passed this evening now in blume. there is much appearance of beaver & otter along these creeks. Saw two deer at a distance, also Sand hill Cranes, Curloos and fowls common to the plains. the Soil appears to improve as we advance on this road. our hunters killed a deer only. The three young men of the Wallah wallah nation Continue with us in the Course of this day. I observed them cut the inner part of the young and succulent Stem of a large Corse plant with a ternate leaf, the leafets of which are three loabes and Covered with woolly pubersence. the flower and fructification resembles that of the parsnip. this plant is very common in the rich lands on the Ohio and its branches. I tasted of this plant found it agreeable and eate hartily of it without feeling any inconveniance.
Friday, May 2nd, 1806 This morning, we sent out two hunters ahead. We had a lot of trouble gathering our horses. By 8 A.M., we had all of them except for the horse we got from the Chopunnish man, which we separated from yesterday. We were concerned that this horse might try to rejoin the other horses, so we thought we had securely hobbled it both in front and on the side. However, it broke the strings during the night and ran away. We sent several men in different directions to search for it and hired one of the men who joined us last night to track it down and catch up with us. At 4:00 P.M., the Indian and Joseph Fields returned with the horse. They had found it on their way back about 17 miles away. I paid the Indian the agreed price for his services, and we immediately loaded up and set off. We traveled east for 3 miles over a hilly road along the north side of the creek, with wide bottoms on the south side. A branch flows into this creek from the southwest mountains, which seem about 25 miles away, low but still covered in snow. We headed N. 75° E. for 7 miles through extensive level bottoms, with more timber than usual along the creek. Some longleaf pine trees appeared on the creek hills, and there were about 50 acres of well-timbered pine land where we crossed the creek 4 miles into our course. Continuing N. 45° E. for 9 miles, we crossed the creek again and continued on the northeast side. The bottoms were wide, with the main creek veering south and its source in the mountains. We passed a small creek 8.75 miles from the start of this path and camped on the north side in a little bottom, having traveled 19 miles today. At this point, the road leaves the creek and moves through open high plains. This creek is 5 yards wide and flows east toward the mountains. I noticed a considerable amount of quagmire in the bottoms we passed through this evening, now in bloom. There were signs of beaver and otter along these creeks. I spotted two deer in the distance, as well as sandhill cranes, curlews, and birds common to the plains. The soil seems to be improving as we continue on this road. Our hunters only managed to kill one deer. The three young men from the Wallah Wallah nation are still with us today. I watched them cut the inner part of the young, tender stem of a large coarse plant with a ternate leaf, whose leaflets are three-lobed and covered in woolly hairs. The flowers and fruit remind me of parsnip. This plant is very common in the rich lands along the Ohio and its tributaries. I tasted this plant and found it agreeable, eating a lot of it without feeling any discomfort.
[Lewis, May 3, 1806]
Saturday May 3rd 1806. This morning we set out at 7 A.M. steered N. 25 E 12 ms. to Kimooenem Creek through a high level plain. this creek is about 12 yds. wide pebbly bottom low banks and discharges a considerable body of water it heads in the S. W. mountains and discharges itself into Lewis's river a few miles above the narrows. the bottoms of this creek are narrow with some timber principally Cottonwood and willow. the under brush such as mentioned on N. East Creek. the hills are high and abrupt. the land of the plains is much more fertile than below, less sand and covered with taller grass; very little of the aromatic shrubs appear in this part of the plain. we halted and dined at this creek; after which we again proceeded N. 45 E. 3 M. through the high plain to a small creek 5 yds. wide branch of the Kimooenem C. this stream falls into the creek some miles below. the hills of this creek like those of the Kimooenem are high it's bottoms narrow and possess but little timber, lands of a good quality, a dark rich loam. we continued our rout up this creek, on it's N. side. N. 75 E. 7 Ms. the timber increases in quantity the hills continue high. East 4 Ms. up the creek. here we met with We-ark-koomt whom we have usually distinguished by the name of the bighorn Cheif from the circumstance of his always wearing a horn of that animal suspended by a cord to he left arm. he is the 1st Cheif of a large band of the Chopunnish nation. he had 10 of his young men with him. this man went down Lewis's river by land as we decended it by water last fall quite to the Columbia and I beleive was very instrumental in procuring us a hospitable and friendly reception among the natives. he had now come a considerable distance to meet us. after meeting this cheif we continued still up the creek bottoms N. 75. E. 2 m to the place at which the road leaves the creek and ascends the hills to the plain here we encamped in small grove of cottonwood tree which in some measure broke the violence of the wind. we came 28 ms. today. it rained hailed snowed and blowed with great violence the greater portion of the day. it was fortunate for us that this storm was from the S. W. and of course on our backs. the air was very cold. we divided the last of our dryed meat at dinner when it was consumed as well as the ballance of our dogs nearly we made but a scant supper and had not anything for tomorrow; however We-arkkoomt consoled us with the information that there was an indian lodge on the river at no great distance where we might supply ourselves with provision tomorrow. our guide and the three young Wallahwollahs left us this morning reather abruptly and we have seen nothing of them since. the S. W. mountains appear to become lower as they proceede to the N. E. this creek reaches the mountains. we are nearer to them than we were last evening
Saturday, May 3, 1806. This morning we set out at 7 A.M., heading N. 25 E for 12 miles to Kimooenem Creek through a high-level plain. This creek is about 12 yards wide, with a pebbly bottom, low banks, and carries a significant amount of water. It originates in the southwest mountains and flows into Lewis's River a few miles above the narrows. The banks of this creek are narrow with some timber, mainly cottonwood and willow. The underbrush is similar to what we saw at Northeast Creek. The hills are steep and high. The plains are much more fertile than the lower areas, with less sand and taller grass; there aren't many aromatic shrubs in this part of the plain. We stopped to have lunch at this creek, and afterward, we continued N. 45 E for 3 miles through the high plain to a smaller creek, 5 yards wide, a branch of Kimooenem Creek. This stream joins the creek a few miles downstream. The hills of this creek, like those of Kimooenem, are high, the valleys are narrow, and there is little timber, but the land is of good quality, a dark rich loam. We continued up this creek on its north side, N. 75 E for 7 miles. The amount of timber increased, and the hills remained high. We went east for 4 miles up the creek and encountered We-ark-koomt, whom we often refer to as the bighorn Chief because he always wears a horn of that animal on a cord attached to his left arm. He is the chief of a large band of the Chopunnish nation, accompanied by 10 of his young men. This man traveled down Lewis's River by land while we descended it by water last fall, all the way to the Columbia, and I believe he was instrumental in ensuring we received a warm and friendly welcome from the locals. He had come a considerable distance to meet us. After meeting this chief, we continued our journey up the creek bottoms, N. 75 E for 2 miles to the point where the road leaves the creek and ascends the hills to the plain. Here, we camped in a small grove of cottonwood trees that provided some shelter from the strong wind. We traveled 28 miles today. It rained, hailed, snowed, and gusted violently for most of the day. Fortunately, the storm came from the southwest, so it was at our backs. The air was very cold. We shared the last of our dried meat at dinner, which was quickly gone, along with almost all of our dogs’ food, so we barely had enough for supper and nothing left for tomorrow. However, We-arkkoomt reassured us that there was an Indian lodge on the river not far away where we could stock up on provisions tomorrow. Our guide and three young Wallahwollahs left us this morning rather abruptly, and we haven't seen them since. The southwest mountains appear to be getting lower as they extend to the northeast, and this creek leads us closer to the mountains than we were last evening.
[Clark, May 3, 1806]
Saturday 3rd May 1806 This morning we Set out at 7 A.M. Steared N. 25° E 12 m. to Kimoo e nimm Creek through a high leavel plain this Creek is 12 yds. wide pebbly bottom low banks and discharges a Considerable quanty of water it head in the S W. Mountains and discharges it Self into Lewis's river a fiew miles Above the narrows. the bottoms of this Creek is narrow with Some timber principally Cotton wood & Willow. the under brush Such as mentioned in the N. E. Creek. The hills are high and abrupt. the lands of the plains is much more furtile than below, less Sand and Covered with taller grass; very little of the aramatic Shrubs appear in this part of the plain. we halted and dined at this Creek. after which we again proceeded N. 45° E. 3 mes. through a high plain to a Small Creek 5 yds. wide, a branch of the Kimooenimm Creek. the hills of this Stream like those of the Ki moo enimm are high its bottoms narrow and possess but little timber. the land of a good quallity dark rich loam. we Continued our rout up this Creek on it's N. Side N. 75° E 7 mes. the timber increas in quantity the hills continue high. we met with the We arh koont whome we have usially distinguished by the name of the big horn Chief from the circumstance of his always wareing a horn of that animal Suspended by a Cord to his left arm. he is a 1st Chief of a large band of the Chopunnish Nation. he had ten of his young men with him. this man Went down Lewis's river by Land as we decended it by water last fall quite to the Columbia, and I believe was very instremental in precureing us a hospital and friendly reception among the nativs. he had now come a Considerable distance to meet us. after meeting this Cheif we Continued Still up the Creek bottoms N. 75° E. 2 m. to the place at which the roade leaves the Creek and assends the hill to the high plains: here we Encamped in a Small grove of Cotton trees which in some measure broke the violence of the wind. we Came 28 miles today. it rained, hailed, Snowed & blowed with Great Violence the greater portion of the day. it was fortunate for us that this Storm was from the S. W. and of Course on our backs. the air was very cold. we devided the last of our dried meat at dinner when it was Consumed as well as the ballance of our Dogs nearly we made but a Scant Supper, and had not any thing for tomorrow; however We-ark-koomt Consoled us with the information that there was an Indian Lodge on the river at no great distance where we might Supply our Selves with provisions tomorrow. our Guide and the three young Wallah wallah's left us this morning reather abruptly and we have Seen nothing of them Sence. the S W. Mountains appear to become lower as they receed to the N, E. This Creek reaches the mountains. we are much nearer to them than we were last evening. they are Covered with timber and at this time Snow.
Saturday, May 3, 1806 This morning we set out at 7 A.M. and headed N. 25° E for 12 miles to Kimoo e nimm Creek, traveling through a high, level plain. This creek is 12 yards wide with a pebbly bottom and low banks, discharging a considerable amount of water. It originates in the SW mountains and flows into Lewis's River a few miles above the narrows. The bottoms of this creek are narrow with some timber, mainly cottonwood and willow. The underbrush is similar to that found in the NE creek. The hills are high and steep. The land in the plains is much more fertile than below, with less sand and taller grass; very few of the aromatic shrubs appear in this part of the plain. We stopped to have lunch at this creek, after which we continued N. 45° E for 3 miles through a high plain to a small creek 5 yards wide, a branch of the Kimoo e nimm Creek. The hills around this stream, like those of the Kimoo e nimm, are high, and its bottoms are narrow with very little timber. The land is of good quality with dark, rich loam. We continued our route up this creek along its north side N. 75° E for 7 miles; the timber increased in quantity while the hills remained high. We encountered We arh koont, whom we've usually referred to as the Big Horn Chief because he always wears a horn of that animal suspended by a cord on his left arm. He is the 1st Chief of a large band of the Chopunnish Nation and had ten young men with him. This man traveled down Lewis's River by land while we descended it by water last fall all the way to the Columbia, and I believe he was very instrumental in securing us a hospital and a friendly reception among the natives. He had come a considerable distance to meet us. After meeting this chief, we continued further up the creek bottoms N. 75° E for 2 miles to the point where the road leaves the creek and ascends the hill to the high plains. Here we camped in a small grove of cotton trees which somewhat sheltered us from the strong wind. We traveled 28 miles today. It rained, hailed, snowed, and blew extremely hard for most of the day. Fortunately, this storm came from the SW, which was at our backs. The air was very cold. We split the last of our dried meat at lunch, and once it was gone, along with nearly all our dogs, we barely had enough for supper and nothing for tomorrow. However, We-ark-koomt reassured us with info about an Indian lodge downstream where we might get provisions tomorrow. Our guide and three young Wallah Wallahs left us this morning rather abruptly, and we haven't seen them since. The SW mountains appear to be getting lower as they recede to the NE. This creek reaches the mountains, and we are much closer to them now than we were last evening. They are covered in timber and snow at this time.
[Lewis, May 4, 1806]
Sunday May 4th 1806. Collected our horses and set out early; the morning was cold and disagreeable. we ascended the Lard. hills of the creek and steered N. 60° E. 4 miles through a high level plain to a ravine which forms the source of a small creek, thence down this creek N. 75° E. 8 ms. to it's entrance into Lewis's river 71/2 ms. below the entrance of the Kooskooske. on the river a little above this creek we arrived at a lodge of 6 families of which Weark-koomt had spoken. we halted here for breakfast and with much difficulty purchase 2 lean dogs. the inhabitants were miserably poor. we obtained a few large cakes of half cured bread made of a root which resembles the sweet potatoe, with these we made some scope and took breakfast. the lands through which we passed today are fertile consisting of a dark rich loam the hills of the river are high and approach it nearly on both sides. no timber in the plains. the S. W. Mountains which appear to be about 15 Ms. above us still continue to become lower they are covered with snow at present nearly to their bases. Lewis's river appeas to pass through these mots. near their N. Eastern extremity. these hills terminate in a high level plain between the Kooskooske and Lewis's river. these plains are in many places well covered with the Longleafed pine, with some Larch and balsom fir. the soil is extreemly fertile no dose it appear so thisty as that of the same apparent texture of the open plains. it produces great quantities of the quawmash a root of which the natives are extreemly fond. a great portion of the Chopunnish we are informed are now distributed in small vilages through this plain collecting the quawmash and cows; the salmon not yet having arrived to call them to the river. the hills of the creek which we decended this morning are high and in most parts rocky and abrupt. one of our pack horses sliped from one of those hights and fell into the creek with it's load consisting principally of ammunition but fortunately neith the horse nor load suffered any material injury. the amunition being secured in canesters the water did not effect it.—after dinner we continued our rout up the West side of the river 3 Ms. opposite to 2 lodges the one containing 3 and the other 2 families of the Chopunnish nation; here we met with Te-toh, ar sky, the youngest of the two cheifs who accompanied us last fall the great falls of the Columbia here we also met with our pilot who decended the river with us as far as the Columbia. these indians recommended our passing the river at this place and ascending the Kooskooske on the N. E. side. they said it was nearer and a better rout to the forkes of that river where the twisted hair resided in whose charge we had left our horses; thither they promised to conduct us. we determined to take the advice of the indians and immediately prepared to pass the river which with the assistance of three indian canoes we effected in the course of the evening, purchased a little wood and some bread of cows from the natives and encamped having traveled 15 Ms. only today. We-ark-koomt whose people resided on the West side of Lewis's river above left us when we determined to pass the river and went on to his lodg. the evening was cold and disagreeable, and the natives crouded about our fire in great numbers insomuch that we could scarcely cook of keep ourselves warm. at all these lodges of the Chopunnish I observe an appendage of a small lodg with one fire which seems to be the retreat of their women in a certain situation. the men are not permitted to approach this lodge within a certain distance and if they have any thing to convey to the occupants of this little hospital they stand at the distance of 50 or 60 paces and throw it towards them as far as they can and retire.
Sunday, May 4th, 1806. We gathered our horses and set out early; the morning was cold and unpleasant. We climbed the high hills by the creek and headed N. 60° E. for 4 miles across a flat area to a ravine that marks the start of a small creek. From there, we traveled down this creek N. 75° E. for 8 miles to where it meets Lewis's River, 7.5 miles below the mouth of the Kooskooske. A bit above this creek, we reached a lodge with 6 families, which Weark-koomt had mentioned. We stopped here for breakfast, and with great difficulty, managed to buy 2 lean dogs. The people living here were very poor. We got a few large cakes of partially cured bread made from a root that looks like a sweet potato; we used these to make some soup and had breakfast. The land we traveled through today is fertile, with a dark, rich loam. The hills by the river are steep and come close to the water on both sides. There’s no timber in the plains. The S.W. Mountains, about 15 miles above us, keep getting lower as they go. They are currently covered with snow nearly up to their bases. Lewis's River flows through these mountains near their N.E. edge. These hills lead to a high flat area between the Kooskooske and Lewis's River. This plain is mostly covered with longleaf pine, some larch, and balsam fir. The soil is extremely fertile and doesn’t seem as dry as similar areas in the open plains. It produces a lot of quawmash, a root the natives really like. We learned that many of the Chopunnish are now living in small villages throughout this plain, collecting quawmash and cows; salmon haven’t arrived yet to draw them to the river. The hills by the creek that we descended this morning are high and mostly rocky and steep. One of our pack horses slipped from one of those heights and fell into the creek with its load, which mainly contained ammunition, but fortunately, neither the horse nor the load was seriously harmed. The ammunition was secured in canisters, so the water didn’t affect it. After lunch, we continued our route up the west side of the river for 3 miles, in front of 2 lodges—one housing 3 families and the other 2 families of the Chopunnish nation. Here we met Te-toh, our guide, the youngest of the two chiefs who accompanied us last fall to the Great Falls of the Columbia. We also met our pilot who traveled down the river with us as far as the Columbia. These Indians suggested we cross the river here and go up the Kooskooske on the N.E. side. They said it was a shorter and better route to the forks of that river, where the Twisted Hair lived, and to whom we had left our horses; they promised to guide us there. We decided to follow the Indians’ advice and quickly got ready to cross the river, which we managed to do with the help of three Indian canoes during the evening. We bought a little wood and some bread from the natives and set up camp after traveling only 15 miles today. We-ark-koomt, whose people lived on the west side of Lewis's River upstream, left us when we decided to cross the river and went to his lodge. The evening was cold and unpleasant, and many natives crowded around our fire, making it difficult for us to cook or stay warm. At all these Chopunnish lodges, I noticed a small lodge with one fire that seems to be a retreat for their women during a certain time. The men are not allowed to approach this lodge within a specific distance, and if they need to give something to the women inside, they stay 50 or 60 paces away, throw it toward them as far as they can, and then leave.
[Clark, May 4, 1806]
Sunday May 4th 1806 Collected our horses and Set out early; the morning was Cold and disagreeable. we assended the Larboard Hill of the Creek and Steared N 60° E 4 M. through a high leavil plain to a revine which forms the Source of a small creek, thence down the Creek N 75° E. 8 Ms. to it's enterance into Lewis's river 71/2 ms. below the enterance of Koos koos ke. on the river a little above this Creek we arived at a lodge of 6 families of which We-ark'-koomt had Spoken. We halted here for brackfast and with much dificuelty purchased 2 lean dogs. the inhabitents were miserably pore. we obtained a fiew large cakes of half cured bread made of a root which resembles the Sweet potatoe, with these we made Some Soope and took brackfast. the lands through which we passed to day are fertile consisting of a dark rich loam. the hills of the river are high and abrupt approaching it nearly on both Sides. no timber in the plains. the S. W. Mountains which appear to be about 15 Miles from us Still Continue to become lower, they are Covered with Snow at present nearly to their bases. Lewis's river appear to pass through those Mountains near the N Eastern extremity. those hills termonate in a high leavil plain between the Kooskoske & Lewis's river. these plains are in maney places well covered with the long leafed pine and Some balsom fir. the Soil is extreamly fertile. no does it appear So thirsty as that of the Same apparrant texture of the open plains. it produces great quantities of the quawmash a root of which the nativs are extreemly fond. a Great portion of the Chopunnish we are informed are now distributed in Small villages through this plain Collecting the Cowse a white Meley root which is very fine in Soup after being dried and pounded; the Salmon not yet haveing arived to Call them to the river-. The hills of the Creek which we decended this morning are high and in most parts rocky and abrupt. one of our pack horses Sliped from one of those hights and fell into the Creek with it's load Consisting principally of amunition, but fortunately neither the horse nor load Suffered any Matereal injury. the ammunition being Secured in Canesters the water did not effect it.
Sunday, May 4, 1806. We gathered our horses and set out early; the morning was cold and uncomfortable. We climbed the left side of the creek and traveled N 60° E for 4 miles through a high, level plain to a ravine that forms the source of a small creek. From there, we went down the creek N 75° E for 8 miles to where it enters Lewis's River, 7.5 miles below the entrance of Kooskoske. A little above this creek on the river, we arrived at a lodge with six families that We-ark'-koomt had mentioned. We stopped here for breakfast and, with much difficulty, bought two lean dogs. The inhabitants were truly poor. We got a few large cakes of half-cured bread made from a root that looks like a sweet potato; with these, we made some soup and had breakfast. The land we passed through today is fertile, consisting of dark, rich soil. The hills by the river are high and steep, coming close to the river on both sides. There are no trees in the plains. The southwest mountains, about 15 miles away, continue to get lower and are currently covered with snow nearly to their bases. Lewis's River seems to flow through those mountains near the northeastern end. These hills end in a high, level plain between Kooskoske and Lewis's River. In many places, these plains are well-covered with long-leafed pine and some balsam fir. The soil here is extremely fertile. It doesn't seem as thirsty as the same apparently textured soil of the open plains. It produces a lot of quawmash, a root that the natives love. We were informed that a large portion of the Chopunnish are now spread out in small villages throughout this plain, gathering cowse, a white mealy root that is great in soup after being dried and pounded; the salmon haven’t arrived yet to call them to the river. The hills of the creek we went down this morning are high and mostly rocky and steep. One of our pack horses slipped from one of those heights and fell into the creek with its load, which consisted mainly of ammunition, but fortunately, neither the horse nor the load suffered any significant damage. The ammunition was secured in canisters, so the water didn’t affect it.
after dinner we Continued our rout up the West Side of the river 3 ms. opposit 2 Lodges the one Containing 3 and the other 2 families of the Chopunnish Nation; here we met with Te-toh-ar-sky the oldest of the two Chiefs who accompanied us last fall to the Great falls of the Columbia. here we also met with our old pilot who decended the river with us as low as the Columbia these indians recommended our passing the river at this place and going up on the N E Side of the Kooskoske. they Sayed it was nearer and a better rout to the forks of that river where the twisted hair resided in whose charge we had left our horses; thither they promised to Conduct us. we determined to take the advise of the indians and imediately prepared to pass the river which with the assistance of three indian Canoes we effected in the Course of the evening, purchased a little Wood, Some Cows bread and encamped, haveing traveled 15 miles to day only. We ark koomt whose people reside on the West Side of Lewis's river above left us when we deturmined to pass the river. before he left us he expressed his concern that his people would be deprived of the pleasure of Seeing us at the forks at which place they had assimbled to Shew us Sivilities &c. I gave him a Small piece of tobacco and he went off Satisfied. the evening was Cold and disagreeable, and the nativs Crouded about our fire in great numbers in so much that we Could Scercely Cook or keep ourselves worm. at all those Lodges of the Chopunnish I observe an appendage of a Small lodge with one fire, which Seames to be the retreat of their women in a certain Situation. the men are not permited to approach this Lodge within a certain distance, and if they have any thing to Convey to the Occupents of this little hospital they Stand at the distance of 50 or 60 paces and throw it towards them as far as they Can and retire.
After dinner, we continued our route up the west side of the river for 3 miles, opposite two lodges—one containing 3 families and the other 2 families of the Chopunnish Nation. Here, we met Te-toh-ar-sky, the oldest of the two chiefs who had accompanied us last fall to the Great Falls of the Columbia. We also encountered our old pilot, who had traveled down the river with us as far as the Columbia. The Indians suggested that we cross the river here and head up on the northeast side of the Kooskoske. They said it was a shorter and better route to the forks of that river, where the Twisted Hair lived, and where we had left our horses. They promised to guide us there. We decided to follow the Indians' advice and immediately got ready to cross the river, which we managed to do with the help of three Indian canoes over the course of the evening. We bought some firewood, some cow’s bread, and set up camp, having traveled only 15 miles that day. We had previously parted ways with Ark Koomt, whose people live on the west side of Lewis's River above, when we decided to cross the river. Before he left, he expressed his concern that his people would miss the chance to see us at the forks, where they had gathered to show us hospitality, etc. I gave him a small piece of tobacco, and he left satisfied. The evening was cold and unpleasant, and the natives crowded around our fire in such numbers that we could barely cook or keep warm at all. In all those lodges of the Chopunnish, I noticed a small lodge attached with one fire, which seems to serve as a retreat for the women during certain situations. The men are not allowed to approach this lodge within a certain distance, and if they have anything to pass to the occupants of this little shelter, they stand 50 or 60 paces away and throw it as far as they can before retreating.
[Lewis, May 5, 1806]
Monday May 5th 1806. Collected our horses and set out at 7 A.M. at 41/2 miles we arrived at the entrance of the Kooskooske, up the N. Eastern side of which we continued our march 12 ms. to a large lodge of 10 families having passed two other large mat lodges the one at 5 and the other at 8 Ms. from the mouth of the Kooskooske but not being able to obtain any provision at either of those lodges continued our march to the third where we arrived at 1 P.M. & with much difficulty obtained 2 dogs and a small quanty of root bread and dryed roots. at the second lodge we passed an indian man gave Capt. C. a very eligant grey mare for which he requested a phial of eye-water which was accordingly given him. while we were encamped last fall at the entrance of the Chopunnish river Capt. C. gave an indian man some volitile linniment to rub his kee and thye for a pain of which he complained, the fellow soon after recovered and has never ceased to extol the virtues of our medecines and the skill of my friend Capt C. as a phisician. this occurrence added to the benefit which many of them experienced from the eyewater we gave them about the same time has given them an exalted opinion of our medicine. my friend Capt. C. is their favorite phisician and has already received many applications. in our present situation I think it pardonable to continue this deseption for they will not give us any provision without compensation in merchandize and our stock is now reduced to a mere handfull. we take care to give them no article which can possibly oinjure them. we foud our Chopunnish guide at this lodge with his family. the indians brought us Capt. Clark's horse from the oposite side of the river and delivered him to us while here. this horse had by some accedent seperated from our other horses above and had agreeably to indian information been in this neighbourhood for some weeks. while at dinner an indian fellow verry impertinently threw a poor half starved puppy nearly into my plait by way of derision for our eating dogs and laughed very heartily at his own impertinence; I was so provoked at his insolence that I caught the puppy and thew it with great violence at him and struk him in the breast and face, siezed my tomahawk and shewed him by signs if he repeated his insolence I would tommahawk him, the fellow withdrew apparently much mortifyed and I continued my repast on dog without further molestation. after dinner we continued our rout 4 miles to the entrance of Colter's Creek about 1/2 a mile above the rapid where we sunk the 1st canoe as we decended the river last fall. we encamped on the lower side of this creek at a little distance from two lodges of the Chopunnish nation having traveled 201/2 ms. today. one of these lodges contained eight families, the other was much the largest we have yet seen. it is 156 feet long and about 15 wide built of mats and straw. in the form of the roof of a house having a number of small doors on each side, is closed at the ends and without divisions in the intermediate space this lodge contained at least 30 families. their fires are kindled in a row in the center of the house and about 10 feet assunder.
Monday, May 5th, 1806. We gathered our horses and set off at 7 A.M. After traveling 4.5 miles, we reached the entrance of the Kooskooske. We continued our journey up the northeastern side for 12 miles to a large lodge with 10 families, having passed two other large mat lodges—one at 5 miles and the other at 8 miles from the mouth of the Kooskooske. Since we couldn't obtain any provisions at either of those lodges, we proceeded to the third lodge, arriving at 1 P.M. There, after much difficulty, we managed to get 2 dogs and a small amount of root bread and dried roots. At the second lodge, we met an Indian man who gave Capt. C. a very elegant grey mare in exchange for a vial of eye-water, which he received. While we were camped last fall at the entrance of the Chopunnish River, Capt. C. had given an Indian man some volatile liniment to rub on his knee and thigh for pain he was experiencing. The man soon recovered and has never stopped praising the virtues of our medicines and the skills of my friend Capt. C. as a physician. This incident, combined with the benefits many experienced from the eye-water we provided around the same time, has given them a high regard for our medicine. My friend Capt. C. is their preferred physician and has already received many requests for help. Given our current situation, I think it’s acceptable to continue this deception since they won’t give us provisions without compensation in merchandise, and our stock has dwindled to almost nothing. We make sure not to give them anything that could harm them. We found our Chopunnish guide at this lodge with his family. The Indians brought us Capt. Clark's horse from the opposite side of the river and delivered him to us while we were here. This horse had, by some accident, separated from the other horses upstream and, according to local information, had been in this area for several weeks. During dinner, an Indian man rudely tossed a poor, half-starved puppy nearly into my plate, mocking us for eating dogs, and laughed heartily at his own rudeness. I was so irritated by his insolence that I grabbed the puppy and threw it back at him with considerable force, hitting him in the chest and face. I grabbed my tomahawk and made it clear by gestures that if he continued his insolence, I would use it on him. The man left, appearing quite embarrassed, and I continued my meal of dog without further trouble. After dinner, we continued on our route for 4 miles to the entrance of Colter's Creek, about half a mile above the rapids where we sunk the first canoe last fall. We set up camp on the lower side of this creek at a short distance from two lodges of the Chopunnish nation, having traveled 20.5 miles today. One of these lodges housed eight families, while the other was by far the largest we have seen so far. It measured 156 feet long and about 15 feet wide, built of mats and straw, with a roof resembling a house that had several small doors on each side. It was closed at both ends and had no divisions in the main area, housing at least 30 families. Their fires were placed in a row down the center of the lodge, about 10 feet apart.
all the lodges of these people are formed in this manner. we arrived here extreemly hungry and much fatiegued, but no articles of merchandize in our possession would induce them to let us have any article of provision except a small quantity of bread of cows and some of those roots dryed. we had several applications to assist their sick which we refused unless they would let us have some dogs or horses to eat. a man whose wife had an absess formed on the small of her back promised a horse in the morning provided we would administer to her accordingly Capt. C. opened the absess introduced a tent and dressed it with basilicon; I prepared some dozes of the flour of sulpher and creem of tarter which were given with directions to be taken on each morning. a little girl and sundry other patients were offered for cure but we posponed our operations untill morning; they produced us several dogs but they were so poor that they were unfit for use. This is the residence of one of 4 principal Cheifs of the nation whom they call Neesh-ne,-park-ke-ook or the cut nose from the circumstance of his nose being cut by the snake indians with a launce in battle. to this man we gave a medal of the small size with the likeness of the President. he may be a great cheif but his countenance has but little inteligence and his influence among his people seems but inconsiderable. a number of indians beside the inhabitants of these lodges geathered about us this evening and encamped in the timbered bottom on the creek near us. we met with a snake indian man at this place through whome we spoke at some length to the natives this evening with rispect to the objects which had induced us to visit their country. this address was induced at this moment by the suggestions of an old man who observed to the natives that he thought we were bad men and had come most probably in order to kill them. this impression if really entertained I beleive we effaced; they appeared well satisfyed with what we said to them, and being hungry and tired we retired to rest at 11 oClock.—We-ark-koomt rejoined us this evening. this man has been of infinite service to us on several former occasions and through him we now offered our address to the natives.
All the lodges of these people are set up like this. We arrived here extremely hungry and very tired, but nothing we had would convince them to give us any food other than a small amount of bread from cows and some dried roots. We had several requests to help their sick, which we turned down unless they would provide us with some dogs or horses to eat. A man whose wife had an abscess on her lower back promised us a horse in the morning if we would treat her. Captain C. opened the abscess, inserted a tent, and dressed it with basilicon; I prepared some doses of sulfur flour and cream of tartar, which were to be taken each morning. A little girl and several other patients were offered for treatment, but we postponed our work until morning; they brought us several dogs, but they were so skinny that they were not fit for use. This is the home of one of the four main chiefs of the nation, known as Neesh-ne-park-ke-ook, or "the cut nose," due to his nose being cut by the Snake Indians with a lance in battle. We gave this man a small medal with the likeness of the President. He may be a great chief, but his face shows little intelligence, and his influence over his people seems minimal. A number of other Indians, besides the people living in these lodges, gathered near us this evening and camped in the wooded area by the creek. We met a Snake Indian man here, through whom we spoke at length with the natives about why we had come to their country. This conversation was prompted by an old man who expressed to the natives that he thought we were bad men, probably here to kill them. If they really held that belief, I think we changed their minds; they seemed satisfied with what we told them, and after a long day, we went to bed at 11 o'clock. We-ark-koomt rejoined us this evening. This man has been incredibly helpful to us on several previous occasions, and through him, we now communicated our message to the natives.
[Clark, May 5, 1806]
Monday May 5th 1806 Collected our horses and Set out at 7 A M. at 41/2 ms. we arived at the enterance of Kooskooske, up the N E. Side of which we continued our March 12 Miles to a large lodge of 10 families haveing passed two other large mat lodges the one at 5 and the other at 8 Miles from the Mouth of the Kooskooske, but not being able to obtain provisions at either of those Lodges continued our March to the 3rd where we arived at 1 P.M. and with much dificuelty obtained 2 dogs and a Small quantity of bread and dryed roots. at the Second Lodge of Eight families Capt L. & my self both entered Smoked with a man who appeared to be a principal man. as we were about to leave his lodge and proceed on our journey he brought foward a very eligant Gray mare and gave her to me, requesting Some eye water. I gave him a phial of Eye water a handkerchief and some Small articles of which he appeared much pleased-. While we were encamped last fall at the enterance of Chopunnish river, I gave an Indian man some volitile leniment to rub his knee and thye for a pain of which he Complained. the fellow Soon after recovered and have never Seased to extol the virtue of our medicines. near the enterance of the Kooskooske, as we decended last fall I met with a man, who Could not walk with a tumure on his thye. this had been very bad and recovering fast. I gave this man a jentle pirge cleaned & dressed his Sore and left him Some Casteel Soap to wash the Sore which Soon got well. this man also assigned the restoration of his leg to me. those two cures has raised my reputation and given those nativs an exolted oppinion of my Skill as a phician. I have already received maney applications. in our present Situation I think it pardonable to continue this deception for they will not give us any provisions without Compensation in merchendize, and our Stock is now reduced to a mear handfull. we take Care to give them no article which Can possibly injure them. and in maney Cases can administer & give Such Medicine & Sergical aid as will effectually restore in Simple Cases &c. We found our Chopunnish Guide with his family. the Indians brought my horse which was left at the place we made Canoes, from the opposit Side and delivered him to me while here. this horse had by Some accident Seperated from our other horses above, and agreeably to indian information had been in this neighbourhood Some weeks. while at dinner an indian fellow very impertinently threw a half Starved puppy nearly into the plate of Capt. Lewis by way of derision for our eating dogs and laughed very heartily at his own impertinence; Capt L.—was So provoked at the insolence that he cought the puppy and threw it with great violence at him and Struck him in the breast and face, Seazed his tomahawk, and Shewed him by Sign that if he repeeted his insolence that he would tomahawk him, the fellow withdrew apparently much mortified and we continued our Dinner without further Molestation. after dinner we continued our rout 4 miles to the enterance of Colter's Creek about 1/2 a mile above the rapid where we Sunk the 1st Canoe as we decended the river last fall. We encamped on the lower Side of this Creek a little distance from two Lodges of the Chopunnish nation haveing traviled 201/2 miles to day one of those Lodges Contained 8 families, the other was much the largest we have yet seen. it is 156 feet long and about 15 feet wide built of mats and Straw, in the form of the roof of a house haveing a number of Small dores on each Side, is closed at the ends and without divisions in the intermediate Space. this lodge at least 30 families. their fires are kindled in a row in the Center of the Lodge and about 10 feet assunder. all the Lodges of these people are formed in this manner. we arrived here extreemly hungary and much fatigued, but no articles of merchindize in our possession would induce them to let us have any article of Provisions except a Small quantity of bread of Cows and some of those roots dryed. We had Several applications to assist their Sick which we refused unless they would let us have Some dogs or horses to eat. a man whose wife had an absess formed on the Small of her back promised a horse in the morning provided we would administer to her, I examined the absess and found it was too far advanced to be cured. I told them her case was desperate. agreeably to thir request I opened the absess. I then introduced a tent and dressed it with bisilican; and prepared Some dozes of the flour of Sulpher and Creem of tarter which were given with directions to be taken on each morning. a little girl and Sundery other patients were brought to me for Cure but we posponed our opperations untill the morning; they produced us Several dogs but they were So pore that they were unfit to eat. This is the residence of one of four principal Cheafs of the nation whome they call Neesh-ne-park-ke-ook or the Cut nose from the circumstance of his nose being Cut by the Snake Indians with a launce in battle. to this man we gave a Medal of the Small Size with a likeness of the President. he may be a great Chief but his Countinance has but little inteligence and his influence among his people appears very inconsiderable. a number of Indians besides the inhabitents of these Lodges gathered about us this evening and encamped in the timbered bottom on the Creek near us. We met with a Snake indian man at this place through whome we Spoke at Some length to the nativs this evening with respect to the object which had enduced us to visit their Country. this address was induced at this moment by the Suggestions of an old man who observed to the nativs that he thought we were bad men and had Come most probably in order to kill them.—this impression if really entertained I believe we effected; they appeared well Satisfied with what we Said to them, and being hungary and tired we retired to rest at 11 oClock.—We-ark-koomt rejoined us this evening. this man has been of infinate Service to us on Several former occasions and through him we now offered our address to the nativs-.
Monday, May 5th, 1806. We gathered our horses and set out at 7 AM. After 4.5 miles, we arrived at the entrance of Kooskooske. We continued our march 12 miles along the northeast side to a large lodge belonging to 10 families, having passed two other large mat lodges—one at 5 miles and the other at 8 miles from the mouth of Kooskooske. Unable to get provisions at either lodge, we pressed on to the third one, arriving at 1 PM, where we managed to obtain two dogs and a small amount of bread and dried roots with a lot of difficulty. At the second lodge, which had eight families, Captain Lewis and I entered and smoked with a man who seemed to be a leader. As we were about to leave his lodge and continue our journey, he brought out an elegant gray mare and gave her to me, asking for some eye wash. I gave him a bottle of eye wash, a handkerchief, and some small items, which he was pleased with. While we were camped last fall at the entrance of Chopunnish River, I had given an Indian some volatile liniment to rub on his knee for pain he was experiencing. He soon recovered and has never stopped praising the benefits of our medicines. Near the entrance of Kooskooske last fall, I met a man who couldn't walk due to a tumor on his thigh. It had been quite severe, but he was recovering quickly. I gave him a gentle purge, cleaned and dressed his sore, and left him some Castile soap to wash the sore, which healed up soon after. This man also credited the restoration of his leg to me. These two successful treatments have boosted my reputation and given the natives a high opinion of my skills as a physician. I've received many requests for help. Given our current situation, I think it's acceptable to continue this pretense, as they will not provide us with provisions without compensation in goods, and our supplies have dwindled to a mere handful. We ensure we don't give them anything that could harm them, and in many cases, we can administer medicine and provide surgical care that effectively restores health in simple cases, etc. We found our Chopunnish guide with his family. The Indians brought my horse, which had been left at the place where we made canoes, from the other side and handed him over to me while we were here. This horse had, by some accident, separated from our other horses earlier and, according to Indian reports, had been in this area for several weeks. While we were having dinner, an Indian rudely threw a half-starved puppy nearly into Captain Lewis's plate as a joke about us eating dogs and laughed heartily at his own rudeness. Captain Lewis was so provoked by the insolence that he grabbed the puppy and threw it back at him with great force, hitting him in the chest and face, seized his tomahawk, and gestured that if he repeated his insolence, he would tomahawk him. The Indian withdrew, apparently very embarrassed, and we continued our dinner without further disturbance. After dinner, we continued our route 4 miles to the entrance of Colter's Creek, about half a mile above the rapid where we lost the first canoe as we descended the river last fall. We camped on the lower side of this creek a little distance from two lodges of the Chopunnish nation, having traveled 20.5 miles today. One of those lodges contained 8 families, while the other was much larger than any we've seen. It is 156 feet long and about 15 feet wide, built of mats and straw, shaped like the roof of a house, with a number of small doors on each side, closed at both ends, and without divisions in the middle. This lodge houses at least 30 families. Their fires are arranged in a line down the center, about 10 feet apart. All the lodges of these people are built in this way. We arrived here extremely hungry and very tired, but none of the goods we had would persuade them to give us any provisions except for a small amount of cow's bread and some dried roots. We received several requests to help their sick, which we declined unless they would provide us with some dogs or horses to eat. A man whose wife had an abscess on her lower back promised a horse in the morning if we would help her. I examined the abscess and found it too far gone to treat successfully, so I told them her case was hopeless. According to their request, I opened the abscess, inserted a tent, and dressed it with bisulfan, preparing some doses of sulfur flour and cream of tartar for them to be taken each morning. A little girl and several other patients were brought to me for treatment, but we postponed our actions until the morning; they offered us several dogs, but they were so poor that they were unfit to eat. This is the home of one of the four main chiefs of the nation, whom they call Neesh-ne-park-ke-ook, or the Cut Nose, because his nose was cut by the Snake Indians during a battle. To this man, we gave a small medal featuring the likeness of the President. He may be a great chief, but his face shows little intelligence, and his influence among his people seems quite limited. Several Indians, in addition to the residents of these lodges, gathered around us this evening and set up camp in the timbered area on the creek near us. We encountered a Snake Indian man here through whom we spoke at some length with the natives this evening about the purpose of our visit to their country. This conversation was prompted by the concerns of an old man who suggested to the natives that he thought we were bad men and had probably come to kill them. If this impression was genuinely held, I believe we changed it; they appeared satisfied with what we said to them, and feeling hungry and tired, we went to sleep at 11 o'clock. We-ark-koomt rejoined us this evening. This man has been incredibly helpful to us on several occasions, and through him, we now offered our address to the natives.
[Lewis, May 6, 1806]
Tuesday May 6th 1806. This morning the husband of the sick woman was as good as his word, he produced us a young horse in tolerable order which we immediately killed and butchered. the inhabitants seemed more accomodating this morning; they sold us some bread. we received a second horse for medecine and prescription for a little girl with the rheumatism. Capt. C. dressed the woman again this morning who declared that she had rested better last night than she had since she had been sick. sore eyes is an universal complaint with all the natives we have seen on the west side of the Rocky mountains. Capt. C. was busily engaged for several hours this morning in administering eye-water to a croud of applicants. we once more obtained a plentifull meal, much to the comfort of all the party. I exchanged horses with We-ark'-koomt and gave him a small flag with which he was much gratifyed. the sorrel I obtained is an eligant strong active well broke horse perfictly calculated for my purposes. at this place we met with three men of a nation called the Skeets-so-mish who reside at the falls of a large river disharging itself into the Columbia on it's East side to the North of the entrance of Clark's river. this river they informed us headed in a large lake in the mountains and that the falls below which they resided was at no great distance from the lake. these people are the same in their dress and appearance with the Chopunnish, tho their language is intirely different a circumstance which I did not learn untill we were about to set out and it was then too late to take a vocabulary. The river here called Clark's river is that which we have heretofore called the Flathead river, I have thus named it in honour of my worthy friend and fellow traveller Capt. Clark. for this stream we know no indian name and no whiteman but ourselves was ever on it's principal branches. the river which Fidler calls the great lake river may possibly be a branch of it but if so it is but a very inconsiderable branch and may as probably empty itself into the Skeetssomish as into that river. the stream which I have heretofore called Clark's river has it's three principal sources in mountains Hood, Jefferson & the Northern side of the S. W. Mountains and is of course a short river. this river I shall in future call the To-wannahiooks river it being the name by which it is called by the Eneshur nation. The Kooskooske river may be safely navigated at present all the rocks of the shoals and rapids are perfectly covered; the current is strong, the water clear and cold. this river is rising fast.The timber of this river which consists principally of the long leafed pine commences about 2 miles below our present camp on Colter's Creek. it was two oclock this evening before we could collect our horses. at 3 P.M. we set out accompanyed by the brother of the twisted hair and We arkkoomt. I directed the horse which we had obtained for the purpose of eating to be led as it was yet unbroke, in performing this duty a quarrel ensued between Drewyer and Colter. we continued our march this evening along the river 9 miles to a lodge of 6 families, built of sticks mats & dryed hay in the same form of those heretofore discribed. we passed a lodge of 3 families at 4 ms. on the road. no provision of any discription was to be obtained of these people. a little after dark our young horse broke the rope by which he was confined and made his escape much to the chagrine of all who recollected the keenness of their appetites last evening. the brother of the twisted hair and Wearkkoomt with 10 or 12 others encamped with us this evening.-
Tuesday, May 6, 1806. This morning, the husband of the sick woman kept his promise and brought us a young horse in decent condition, which we immediately killed and butchered. The locals seemed more accommodating today; they sold us some bread. We received a second horse for medicine and a prescription for a little girl with rheumatism. Capt. C. treated the woman again this morning, and she said she had slept better last night than she had since becoming ill. Sore eyes are a common issue among all the natives we've encountered on the west side of the Rocky Mountains. Capt. C. spent several hours this morning administering eye drops to a crowd of applicants. We once again enjoyed a plentiful meal, which comforted everyone in our group. I traded horses with We-ark'-koomt and gave him a small flag, which made him very happy. The sorrel horse I received is a strong, active, well-trained horse, perfect for my needs. Here, we met three men from a nation called the Skeets-so-mish, who live near the falls of a large river that flows into the Columbia on its east side, north of the entrance of Clark's River. They told us that this river starts in a large lake in the mountains and that the falls where they lived were not far from the lake. These people dress and look similar to the Chopunnish, although their language is completely different—a fact I didn’t find out until we were about to leave, and by then it was too late to take a vocabulary. The river we now call Clark's River is the one we previously referred to as Flathead River; I named it in honor of my dear friend and fellow traveler Capt. Clark. We don't know any Indian name for this stream, and no white person besides us has ever been on its main branches. The river that Fidler calls the great lake river may possibly be a branch of it, but if it is, it’s a minor branch and could as likely flow into the Skeetssomish as into this river. The stream I’ve called Clark's River has its three main sources in Mount Hood, Mount Jefferson, and the northern side of the southwestern mountains, making it a short river. I will henceforth call this river the To-wannahiooks River, the name used by the Eneshur nation. The Kooskooske River can be safely navigated right now; all the rocks in the shallow areas and rapids are completely covered. The current is strong, and the water is clear and cold. This river is rising quickly. The timber along this river, primarily longleaf pine, starts about two miles below our current camp on Colter's Creek. It was 2 o'clock this afternoon before we could gather our horses. At 3 PM, we set out, accompanied by the brother of the twisted hair and We-arkkoomt. I instructed that the horse we had obtained for food be led, as it was still untrained; during this task, a disagreement broke out between Drewyer and Colter. We continued our journey this evening along the river for 9 miles to a lodge of 6 families, made of sticks, mats, and dried hay, similar to those previously described. We passed a lodge of 3 families about 4 miles down the road. No food of any kind was available from these people. A little after dark, our young horse broke free from the rope it was tied with and escaped, much to the disappointment of anyone who remembered how hungry they had been the night before. The brother of the twisted hair and We-arkkoomt, along with 10 to 12 others, camped with us this evening.
the natives have a considerable salmon fishery up Colter's Creek. this stream extends itself to the pirs of the rocky mountain and in much the greater part of it's course passes through a well timbered pine country it is 25 yds. wide and discharges a large body of water. the banks low and bed formed of pebbles.—had a small shower of rain this evening.
The locals have a significant salmon fishery up Colter's Creek. This stream stretches to the peaks of the Rocky Mountains and for most of its course passes through a well-forested pine area. It is 25 yards wide and carries a large volume of water. The banks are low and the riverbed consists of pebbles. I had a light rain shower this evening.
[Clark, May 6, 1806]
Tuesday May 6th 1806 This morning the Susband of the Sick woman was as good as his word. he produced us a young horse in tolerable order which we imedeately had killed and butchered. the inhabitents Seemed more accommodating this morning. they Sold us Some bread. we received a Second horse for Medecine & procription to a little girl with the rhumitism whome I had bathed in worm water, and anointed her a little with balsom Capivia. I dressed the woman again this morning who declared that She had rested better last night than She had Since She had been sick. Sore Eyes is an universal Complaint among all the nations which we have Seen on the West Side of the rocky Mountains. I was busily imployed for several hours this morning in administering eye water to a Croud of applicants. we once more obtained a plentiful meal, much to the Comfort of all the party. Capt Lewis exchanged horses with We ark koomt and gave him a small flag with which he was much pleased and gratifyed. the Sorrel which Cap L. obtained is a Strong active well broke horse-. At this place we met with three men of a nation Called the Skeetsso-mish who reside at the falls of a Small river dischargeing itself into the Columbia on its East Side to the South of the enterance of Clarks river. this river they informed us headed in a large lake in the mountains and that the falls below which they reside was at no great distance from the lake. these people are the Same in their dress and appearance with the Chopunnish, tho their language is entirely different. one of them gave me his whip which was a twisted Stick 18 Ins. in length at one end a pice of raw hide Split So as to form two Strings about 20 inches in length as a lash, to the other end a String passed through a hole and fastened at each end for a loope to Slip over the wrist. I gave in return for this whip a fathom of narrow binding. The River here Calld. Clarks river is that which we have heretofore Called Flathead river. Capt. Lewis has thought proper to Call this after myself for this Stream we know no Indhan name and no white man but our Selves was ever on this river. The river which Fiddler call's the great Lake river may possiably be a branch of it, but if So it is but a very inconsiderable branch, and may as probably empty itself into the Columbia above as into Clarks river. the Stream which the party has heretofore Called Clarks river imedeately above the great falls, has it's three principal branches in Mountains Jefferson, Hood and the Northern Side of the S. W. Mountains and is of course a Short river. this river is Called by the Skillutes & Eneshure Nations Towannahhiooks which is also the name they Call those bands of Snake indians who Come on this river every Spring to Catch the Salmon-. The Kooskooske river may be Safely navigated at present all the rocks of the Sholes and rapids are perfectlly Covered; the Current is Strong, the water Clear and Cold. this river is riseing fast-. The timber of this river which consists principally of the long leafed pine which commences about 2 miles below our present encampment on Colters Creek. it was 2 P M. this evening before we could collect our horses. at 3 P M. we Set out accompanied by the brother of the twisted hair and We-ark-koomt. we derected the horse which I had obtained for the purpose of eateing to be led as it was unbroke, in performing this duty a quarrel ensued between Drewyer and Colter-. We Continued our march along the river on its North Side 9 miles to a lodge of 6 families built of Sticks mats and dryed Hay. of the Same form of those heretofore discribed. we passed a Lodge of 3 families at 4 ms. on the river, no provisions of any discription was to be obtained of these people. a little after dark our young horse broke the rope by which he was Confined and made his escape much to the chagrine of all who recollected the keenness of their appetites last evening. the brother of the twisted hair & wearkkoomt with 10 others encamped with us this evening
Tuesday, May 6th, 1806 This morning, the husband of the sick woman kept his promise. He provided us with a young horse in fairly good shape, which we immediately had killed and butchered. The locals seemed more helpful today; they sold us some bread. We received a second horse for medicine and a prescription for a little girl with rheumatism, whom I had bathed in warm water and applied a bit of Balsam Capivia to. I treated the woman again this morning, and she said she had slept better last night than she had since she got sick. Sore eyes are a common issue among all the tribes we've encountered on the west side of the Rocky Mountains. I spent several hours this morning administering eye drops to a crowd of people seeking relief. We had a hearty meal once again, which was a relief for everyone in our party. Captain Lewis traded horses with Wearkkoomt and gave him a small flag, which he was very pleased and satisfied with. The sorrel horse that Captain Lewis got is strong, active, and well-trained. Here, we met three men from a tribe called the Skeetsso-mish, who live at the falls of a small river that flows into the Columbia from the east, south of the entrance to Clark's River. They informed us that this river originates from a large lake in the mountains, and the falls where they lived is not far from the lake. These people dress and look similar to the Chopunnish, although their language is completely different. One of them gave me his whip, which was a twisted stick 18 inches long; one end had a piece of rawhide split into two strings about 20 inches long for a lash, and the other end had a string going through a hole and tied at both ends to make a loop to slip over the wrist. I traded him a fathom of narrow binding for this whip. The river here, called Clark's River, is what we've previously referred to as Flathead River. Captain Lewis decided to name it after me since we don't know its Indian name, and no one but us white men has been on this river. The river that Fiddler calls the Great Lake River might be a branch of this river, but if so, it's a very minor one and could just as well flow into the Columbia River upstream as into Clark's River. The stream that the party has previously called Clark's River, immediately above the Great Falls, has three main branches in the Jefferson and Hood Mountains and the northern side of the Southwest Mountains, making it a short river. The Skillutes and Eneshure nations call this river Towannahhiooks, which is also the name they use for those bands of Snake Indians who come to this river every spring to catch salmon. The Kooskooske River can be safely navigated right now; all the rocks in the shallow parts and rapids are completely covered; the current is strong, and the water is clear and cold. This river is rising quickly. The timber along this river mainly consists of long-leaf pine, starting about 2 miles below our current campsite on Colter's Creek. It was 2 PM before we managed to gather our horses. At 3 PM, we set out, accompanied by the brother of Twisted Hair and Wearkkoomt. We directed that the horse I got for eating be led, as it was unbroken. During this process, a quarrel broke out between Drewyer and Colter. We continued our march along the north side of the river for 9 miles until we reached a lodge of 6 families built from sticks, mats, and dried hay, similar in structure to those we've described before. We passed a lodge of 3 families 4 miles down the river, but no food of any kind could be obtained from these people. A little after dark, our young horse broke free from the rope that confined it and escaped, much to the annoyance of all who remembered how hungry they had been the night before. The brother of Twisted Hair and Wearkkoomt, along with 10 others, camped with us this evening.
The nativs have a Considerable Salmon fishery up Colters Creek. this Stream extends itself to the Spurs of the Rocky Mountain and in much the greater part of its Course passes through a well timbered pine Country. it is 25 yds. wide and discharges a large body of water. the banks low and bead formed of pebbles-. had a Small Shower of rain this evening. The Chopunnish about the Mouth of the Kooskooske bury their dead on Stoney hill Sides generally, and as I was informed by an Indian who made Signs that they made a hole in the Grown by takeing away the Stones and earth where they wished to deposit the dead body after which they laid the body which was previously raped in a robe and Secured with Cords. over the body they placed Stones So as to form a Sort of arch on the top of which they put Stones and earth So as to Secure the body from the wolves and birds &c. they Sometimes inclose the grave with a kind of Sepulcher like the roof of a house formed of the canoes of the disceased. they also Sacrifice the favorite horses of the disceased. the bones of many of which we See on and about the graves.
The natives have a significant salmon fishery up Colters Creek. This stream runs toward the Rocky Mountain foothills and for most of its course flows through a well-timbered pine area. It is 25 yards wide and carries a large volume of water. The banks are low and the bottom is made of pebbles. We had a light rain shower this evening. The Chopunnish people near the mouth of the Kooskooske bury their dead on stone hillsides generally. An Indian explained to me through gestures that they create a hole in the ground by removing the stones and earth where they want to place the body. Then they lay the body, which is wrapped in a robe and secured with cords, inside. They cover the body with stones, forming a sort of arch, and then add more stones and earth on top to protect it from wolves, birds, etc. Sometimes they enclose the grave with a kind of structure resembling a roof, made from the canoes of the deceased. They also sacrifice the deceased's favorite horses, the bones of many of which we see on and around the graves.
[Lewis, May 7, 1806]
Wednesday May 7th 1806. This morning we collected our horses and set out early accompanyed by the brother of the twisted hair as a guide; Wearkkoomt and his party left us. we proceeded up the river 4 miles to a lodge of 6 families just below the entrance of a small creek, here our guide recommended our passing the river. he informed us that the road was better on the South side and that game was more abundant also on that side near the entrance of the Chopunnish river. we determined to pursue the rout recommended by the guide and accordingly unloaded our horses and prepared to pass the river which we effected by means of one canoe in the course of 4 hours. a man of this lodge produced us two canisters of powder which he informed us he had found by means of his dog where they had been buried in a bottom near the river some miles above, they were the same which we had buryed as we decended the river last fall. as he had kept them safe and had honesty enough to return them to us we gave him a fire steel by way of compensation. during our detention at the river we took dinner, after which or at 3 P.M. we renewed our march along the river about 2 ms. over a difficult stony road, when we left the river and asscended the hills to the wright which are here mountains high. the face of the country when you have once ascended the river hills is perfectly level and partially covered with the longleafed pine. the soil is a dark rich loam thickly covered with grass and herbatious plants which afford a delightfull pasture for horses. in short it is a beautifull fertile and picteresque country. Neeshneparkeeook overtook us and after riding with us a few miles turned off to the wright to visit some lodges of his people who he informed me were geathering roots in the plain at a little distance from the road. our guide conducted us through the plain and down a steep and lengthey hill to a creek which we called Musquetoe Creek in consequence of being infested with swarms of those insects on our arrival at it. this is but an inconsiderable stream about 6 yds. wide heads in the plains at a small distance and discharges itself into the Kooskooke 9 miles by water below the entrance of the Chopunnish river. we struck this creek at the distance of 5 ms. from the point at which we left the river our cours being a little to the S. of East. ascending the creek one mile on the S. E. side we arrived at an indian incampment of six lodges which appeared to have been recently evacuated. here we remained all night having traveled 12 miles only. the timbered country on this side of the river may be said to commence near this creek, and on the other side of the river at a little distance from it the timber reaches as low as Colter's Creek. the earth in many parts of these plains is thrown up in little mounds by some animal whose habits are similar to the Sallemander, like that animal it is also invisible; notwithstanding I have observed the work of this animal thoughout the whole course of my long tract from St. Louis to the Pacific ocean I have never obtained a view of this animal. the Shoshone man of whom I have before made mention evertook us this evening with Neeshneparkeeook and remained with us this evening.—we suped this evening as we had dined on horse-beef. we saw several deer this evening and a great number of the tracks of these animals we determined to remain here untill noon tomorrow in order to obtain some venison and accordingly gave orders to the hunters to turn out early in the morning.—he Spurs of the rocky Mountains which were in view from the high plain today were perfectly covered with snow. the Indians inform us that the snow is yet so deep on the mountains that we shall not be able to pass them untill the next full moon or about the first of June; others set the time at still a more distant period. this unwelcom inteligence to men confined to a diet of horsebeef and roots, and who are as anxious as we are to return to the fat plains of the Missouri and thence to our native homes. The Chopunnish bury their dead in Sepulchres formed of boards like the roofs of houses. the corps is rolled in skins and laid on boards above the surface of the earth. they are laid in several teer one over another being seperated by a board only above and below from other corps. I did observe some instances where the body was laid in an indifferent woden box which was placed among other carcased rolled in skin in the order just mentioned. they sacrifice horses canoes and every other speceis of property to their ded. the bones of many horses are seen laying about those sepulchres. this evening was cold as usual.
Wednesday, May 7th, 1806. This morning we gathered our horses and set off early, accompanied by the brother of the twisted hair as our guide; Wearkkoomt and his group left us. We traveled up the river for 4 miles to a lodge of 6 families just below the entrance of a small creek. Here, our guide suggested we cross the river, informing us that the path was better on the south side and that game was more plentiful there, especially near the entrance of the Chopunnish River. We decided to follow the guide’s advice, unloaded our horses, and prepared to cross the river, which we accomplished with one canoe over the course of 4 hours. A man from this lodge brought us two canisters of powder, which he said he found thanks to his dog, where they had been buried in a low area near the river some miles upstream. They were the same ones we had buried as we went down the river last fall. Since he kept them safe and had the honesty to return them, we gave him a fire steel as compensation. During our wait by the river, we had dinner, after which, at 3 P.M., we resumed our journey along the river for about 2 miles over a tricky stony path, then left the river to climb the hills to the right, which are quite mountainous here. The landscape, once you’ve ascended the river hills, is perfectly flat and partly covered with long-leafed pine. The soil is a rich, dark loam thickly covered with grass and herbaceous plants, providing delightful pasture for horses. In short, it is a beautiful, fertile, and picturesque area. Neeshneparkeeook caught up with us, and after riding with us for a few miles, he turned to the right to visit some lodges of his people, who he said were gathering roots in the plain a short distance from the road. Our guide led us through the plain and down a steep and lengthy hill to a creek, which we named Mosquito Creek due to the swarms of those insects upon our arrival. This creek is a small stream, about 6 yards wide, that begins in the plains not far away and flows into the Kooskooke River, 9 miles downstream from the entrance of the Chopunnish River. We reached this creek 5 miles from where we left the river, heading a little to the south of east. Ascending the creek for one mile on the southeast side, we found an Indian camp with six lodges that appeared to have been recently abandoned. We stayed there for the night, having traveled only 12 miles. The timbered area on this side of the river seems to start near this creek, while on the other side, it extends down to Colter's Creek at a little distance away. In many parts of these plains, the soil is disrupted in small mounds by some creature similar to a salamander; like that creature, it is also invisible. Despite having observed the work of this animal throughout my long journey from St. Louis to the Pacific Ocean, I have never seen it. The Shoshone man I mentioned earlier caught up with us this evening alongside Neeshneparkeeook and stayed with us. We had dinner this evening, having previously dined on horse beef. We spotted several deer this evening and saw many tracks of these animals, so we decided to remain here until noon tomorrow to try and obtain some venison, instructing the hunters to head out early in the morning. The foothills of the Rocky Mountains visible from the high plain today were completely covered in snow. The Indians told us that the snow is still so deep in the mountains that we won’t be able to cross until the next full moon, around the beginning of June; others said it would be an even longer wait. This unwelcome news is tough for those of us on a diet of horse beef and roots, who are eager to return to the rich plains of Missouri and then to our homes. The Chopunnish bury their dead in tombs made of boards resembling the roofs of houses. The body is rolled in skins and placed on boards above the ground’s surface. They are stacked several tiers high, separated by boards both above and below from other bodies. I noticed a few instances where the body was placed in a simple wooden box, which was among other carcasses rolled in skins in the same manner. They sacrifice horses, canoes, and all types of possessions for their dead. The bones of many horses can be seen scattered around these tombs. This evening was cold, as usual.
[Clark, May 7, 1806]
Wednesday May 7th 1806 This morning we collected our horses and Set out early accompanied by the brother of the twisted hair as a guide; Wearkkoomt and his party left us. we proceeded up the river 4 miles to a lodge of 6 families just below the enterance of a Small Creek, here our guide recommended our passing the river, he informed us that the road was better on the South Side, and that game was more abundant also on that Side near the enterance of Chopunnish river. we deturmined to pursue the rout recommended by the guide, and accordingly unloaded our horses and prepared to pass the river which we effected by means of one Canoe in the Course of 4 hours. a man of this lodge produced us two Canisters of Powder which he informed us he had found by means of his dog where they had been berried in the bottom near the river a fiew miles above. they were the Same which we had burried as we decended the river last fall. as he had kept them Safe and had honisty enough to return them to us, we gave him a fire Steel by way of Compensation. dureing our detention at the river we took dinner. after which we renewed our march along the S. E. Side of the river about 2 miles over a dificuelt Stoney road, when we left the river and assended the hills to the right which are here mountains high. the face of the Country when you have once assended the river hills, is perfectly level and partially Covered with the long leafed pine. the Soil is a dark rich loam, thickly Covered with grass and herbatious plants which afford a delightfull pasture for horses. in Short it is a butifull fertile picteresque Country. Neeshneparkeeook over took us and after rideing with us a fiew miles turned off to the right to visit some lodges of his people who he informed us were gathering roots in the plains at a little distance from the road. our guide Conducted us through the plain and down a Steep and lengthy hill to a Creek which we Call Musquetoe Creek in consequence of being infested with Sworms of those insects on our arival at it. this is but an inconsiderable Stream about 6 yards wide heads in the plains at a Short distance and discharges itself into the Kooskooske 9 ms. by water below the forks. we Struck this Creek at the distance of 5 miles from the point at which we left the river our course being a little to the S. of East. we proceeded up the Creek one Mile and on the S. E. Side we arived at an old Indian incampment of Six Lodges which appeared to have been recently evacuated. here we remained all night haveing traveled 12 ms. only. the timbered Country on this Side of the river may be Said to Commence a Short distance below this Creek, and on the other Side of the river at a little distance from it the timber reaches as low as Colter's Creek. the earth in maney parts of those plains is thown up in little mounds by Some animal whose habits are Similar to the Sallemander, like that animal it is also invisible; notwithstanding I have observed the work of this animal throughout the whole course of my trail from St. Louis to the Pacific Ocian, I have never obtained a View of this animal. The Shoshone man of whome I have before mentioned over took us this evening with Neesh neparkeeook or Cut nose and remained with us this evening. we Suped this evening as we had done on horse beef. we Saw Several deer this evening, and a great number of the tracks of these animals we deturmined to remain here untill noon tomorrow in order to obtain some venison, and accordingly gave orders to the hunters to turn out early in the morning. The Spurs of the rocky mountains which were in view from the high plain to day were perfectly Covered with Snow. The Indians inform us that the Snow is yet So deep on the Mountains that we Shall not be able to pass them untill after the next full moon or about the first of June. others Set the time at a more distant period. this unwelcom intiligence to men confined to a diet of horsebeef and roots, and who are as anxious as we are to return to the fat plains of the Missouri, and thence to our native homes. The Chopunnish bury their dead in different ways as I have obseved, besides that already discribed they scaffold Some and deposit others in Sepulchers, those are rearly to be Seen in this upper part of the Columbian Waters. the one already discribed is the most Common. they all Sacrifice horses, Canoes and every Species of property to the dead. the bones of maney horses are Seen lyeing about those repositaries of the dead &c.-.
Wednesday, May 7th, 1806 This morning, we gathered our horses and set out early, accompanied by the brother of the twisted hair as our guide; Wearkkoomt and his group left us. We traveled up the river for 4 miles to a lodge of 6 families just below the entrance of a small creek. Here, our guide suggested we cross the river, informing us that the road was better on the south side and that game was more plentiful there near the entrance of Chopunnish River. We decided to follow the route the guide recommended, so we unloaded our horses and prepared to cross the river, which we managed to do using one canoe over the course of 4 hours. A man from this lodge brought us two canisters of powder that he found with his dog, buried near the river a few miles upstream. They were the same canisters we had buried while descending the river last fall. Since he carefully kept them safe and was honest enough to return them to us, we gave him a fire steel as compensation. During our wait at the river, we had dinner. After that, we resumed our march along the southeast side of the river for about 2 miles over a difficult, rocky road, then left the river and climbed the hills to the right, which are quite high. Once you ascend the river hills, the terrain is completely level and partially covered with long-leaf pine. The soil is a dark, rich loam, thickly covered with grass and herbaceous plants, providing delightful pasture for horses. In short, it is a beautiful, fertile, picturesque area. Neeshneparkeeook caught up with us, and after riding with us for a few miles, he turned off to the right to visit some lodges of his people, who he said were gathering roots in the plains nearby. Our guide led us through the plain and down a steep, long hill to a creek, which we call Mosquito Creek because it's swarming with those insects upon our arrival. This is a small stream, about 6 yards wide, that originates in the plains at a short distance and flows into the Kooskooske River about 9 miles downstream from the forks. We reached this creek 5 miles from where we left the river, our course being slightly to the south of east. We continued up the creek for a mile, and on the southeast side, we arrived at an old Indian encampment of six lodges that appeared to have been recently abandoned. We stayed here overnight, having traveled only 12 miles. The forested area on this side of the river can be said to start a short distance below this creek, and across the river, a little way from it, the timber extends down to Colter's Creek. In many parts of the plains, the earth is heaped up in little mounds by some animal whose habits resemble those of a salamander; like that animal, it remains unseen. Even though I've observed the work of this animal throughout my entire journey from St. Louis to the Pacific Ocean, I've never actually seen it. The Shoshone man I mentioned before caught up with us this evening, along with Neeshneparkeeook, or Cut Nose, and stayed with us. We had supper this evening, just as we did with horse beef. We saw several deer tonight and numerous tracks of these animals, so we decided to stay here until noon tomorrow to try to get some venison, instructing the hunters to go out early in the morning. The snow-capped spurs of the Rocky Mountains, visible from the high plain today, indicated that it's still deep on the mountains. The Indians tell us we won’t be able to cross them until after the next full moon, around the start of June. Others estimate the time frame as being even further away. This unwelcome news is tough for us, as we’re stuck on a diet of horse beef and roots, yearning to return to the lush plains of Missouri and eventually to our homes. The Chopunnish have different burial practices, as I have observed; besides the method already described, they also scaffold some bodies and place others in sepulchers, although these are rarely seen in this upper part of the Columbia waters. The method previously described is the most common. They sacrifice horses, canoes, and all kinds of property to the dead. The bones of many horses can be seen lying around these burial sites, etc.
I observed in all the Lodges which we have passed Since we Crossed Lewis's river decoys, or Stocking heads as they are Sometimes called. these decoys are for the deer and is formed of the Skin of the head and upper portion of the neck of that animale extended in the nateral Shape by means of a fiew little Sticks placed within. the hunter when he Sees a deer conseals himself and with his hand givs to the decoy the action of a deer at feed, and this induces the deer within arrowshot; in this mode the Indians near the woody country hunt on foot in Such places where they cannot pursue the deer with horses which is their favourite method when the grounds will permit-.-. The orniments worn by the Chopunnish are, in their nose a Single Shell of wampom, the pirl & beeds are Suspended from the ears. beads are worn arround their wrists, neck and over their Sholders crosswise in the form of a double Sash-. the hair of the men is Cewed in two rolls which hang on each side in front of the body. Collars of bears Claws are also Common; but the article of dress on which they appear to bestow most pains and orniments is a kind of collar or brestplate; this is most Commonly a Strip of otter skins of about Six inches Wide taken out of the Center of the Skin it's whole length including the head. this is dressed with the hair on, this is tied around the neck & hangs in front of the body the tail frequently reaching below their knees; on this Skin in front is attatched pieces of pirl, beeds, wampom, pices of red Cloth and in Short whatever they conceive most valuable or ornamental-.-.
I noticed in all the lodges we passed since crossing Lewis's River decoys, or stocking heads as they’re sometimes called. These decoys are for deer and are made from the skin of the head and upper neck of that animal, shaped naturally with a few small sticks inserted inside. When a hunter sees a deer, he hides himself and moves the decoy’s head to imitate a deer feeding, which brings the deer within range. This is how the Indians near the wooded areas hunt on foot in places where they can't chase the deer on horseback, which is their preferred method when the terrain allows. The ornaments worn by the Chopunnish include a single shell of wampum in their noses, and pearls and beads hanging from their ears. Beads are worn around their wrists, necks, and across their shoulders in the form of a double sash. The men's hair is styled in two rolls that hang down on each side in front of their bodies. Collars made of bear claws are also common; however, the garment they seem to put the most effort into is a type of collar or breastplate. This is typically a strip of otter skin about six inches wide taken from the center of the skin, including the head, and it is dressed with the hair on. It’s tied around the neck and hangs in front of the body, with the tail often reaching below their knees. Attached to this skin in front are pieces of pearl, beads, wampum, pieces of red cloth, and anything else they deem valuable or decorative.
[Lewis, May 8, 1806]
Thursday May 8th 1806. Most of the hunters turned out by light this morning a few others remained without our permission or knoledge untill late in the morning, we chid them severely for their indolence and inattention to the order of last evening. about 8 OCk. Sheilds returned with a small deer on which we breakfasted. by 11 A.M. all our hunters returned, Drewyer and Cruzatte brought each a deer, Collins wounded another which my dog caught at a little distance from the camp. our stock of provision now consisted of 4 deer and the remnant of the horse which we killed at Colter's Creek. Sheilds killed a duck of an uncommon kind. the head beak and wing of which I preserved. the beak is remarkably wide and obtusely pointed, on it's edges it is furnished with a sceries of teeth very long and fine not unlike the teeth of a comb. the belley is of a brick red, the lower part of the neck white, the upper part or but of the wing is a sky blue, underneath which a narrow stripe of white succeeds marking the wing transversly, the large feathers are of a dark colour. tail short and pointed and consists of 12 dark brown feathers. the back is black and sides white; legs yellow and feet formed like the Duckinmallard which it also resembles in size and form. the eye is moderately large, puple black and iris of an orrange colour. the colours and appearance of the female is precisely that of the duckinmallard only, reather smaller. we are informed that the natives in this quarter were much distressed for food in the course of the last winter; they were compelled to collect the moss which grows on the pine which they boiled and eat; near this camp I observed many pine trees which appear to have been cut down about that season which they inform us was done in order to collect the seed of the longleafed pine which in those moments of distress also furnishes an article of food; the seed of this speceis of pine is about the size and much the shape of the seed of the large sunflower; they are nutricious and not unpleasent when roasted or boiled, during this month the natives also peal this pine and eat the succulent or inner bark. in the creek near our encampment I observed a falling trap constructed on the same plan with those frequent seen in the atlantic states for catching the fish decending the stream Capt. C. took several small trout from this trap. Neesh-ne-park-kee-ook and several other indians joined us this morning. we gave this cheif and the indians with us some venison, horsebeef, the entrels of the four deer, and four fawns which were taken from two of the does that were killed, they eat none of their food raw, tho the entrals had but little preperation and the fawns were boiled and consumed hair hide and entrals. these people sometimes eat the flesh of the horse tho they will in most instances suffer extreem hunger before they will kill their horses for that purpose, this seems reather to proceede from an attatchment to this animal, than a dislike to it's flesh for I observe many of them eat very heartily of the horsebeef which we give them. The Shoshone man was displeased because we did not give him as much venison as he could eat and in consequence refused to interpret, we took no further notice of him and in the course of a few hours he became very officious and seemed anxious to reinstate himself in our good opinons. the relation of the twisted hair and Neeshneparkkeook gave us a sketch of the principall watercourses West of the Rocky Mountains a copy of which I preserved; they make the main Southwardly branch of Lewis's river much more extensive than the other, and place many villages of the Shoshonees on it's western side. at half after 3 P.M. we departed; for the lodge of the Twisted hair accompanyed by the Cheif and sundry other indians. the relation of the twisted hair left us. the road led us up a steep and high hill to a high and level plain mostly untimbered, through which we passed parrallel with the river about 4 miles when we met the Twisted hair and a party of six men. to this Cheif we had confided the care of our horses and a part of our saddles when we decended the river last fall. the Twisted hair received us very coolly an occurrence as unexpected as it was unaccountable to us. he shortly began to speak with a loud voice and in a angry manner, when he had ceased to speak he was answered by the Cutnose Cheif or Neeshneparkkeook; we readily discovered that a violet quarrel had taken place between these Cheifs but at that instant knew not the cause; we afterwards learnt that it was on the subject of our horses. this contreversy between the cheifs detained us about 20 minutes; in order to put an end to this dispute as well as to releive our horses from the embarasment of their loads, we informed the Cheifs that we should continue our march to the first water and encamp accordingly we moved on and the Indians all followed. about two miles on the road we arrived at a little branch which run to the wright. here we encamped for the evening having traveled 6 miles today. the two cheifs with their little bands formed seperate camps at a short distance from ours, they all appeared to be in an ill humour. we had been informed some days since that the natives had discovered the deposit of our saddles and taken them away and that our horses were much scattered. we were very anxious to learn the particulars or truth of these reports from the twisted hair, as it must in some measure govern us in the establishment of our perminent camp which in consequence of our detention by the snow of the mountains has become necessary. to obtain our horses and saddles as quickly as possible is our wish, and we are somewhat apprehensive that this difference which has taken place between these Chiefs may millitate against our operations in this rispect. we were therefore desireous to bring about a good understanding between them as soon as possible. The Shoshone boy refused to speak, he aledged it was a quarrel between two Cheifs and that he had no business with it; it was in vain that we urged that his interpreting what we said on this subject was not taking the responsibil ity of the inteference on himself, he remained obstenately silent. about an hour after we had encamped Drewyer returned from hunting we sent him to the Twisted hair to make some enquiries relative to our horses and saddles and to ask him to come and smoke with us. The Twisted hair accepted the invitation and came to our fire. The twisted hair informed us that accordingly to the promis he had made us when he seperated from us at the falls of the Columbia he collected our horses on his return and took charge of them, that about this time the Cutnose or Neeshneparkkeook and Tun-nach'-emoo-tools or the broken arm returned from a war excurtion against the Shoshonees on the South branch of Lewis's river which had caused their absence when we were in this neighbourhood. that these men became dissatisfyed with him in consequence of our having confided the horses to his care and that they were eternally quarreling with him insomuch that he thought it best as he was an old man to relinquish any further attention to the horses, that they had consequently become scattered; that most of the horses were near this place, a part were in the forks between the Chopunnish and Kooskooske rivers and three or four others were at the lodge of the broken Arm about half a days march higher up the river. he informed us with rispect to our saddles that on the rise of the water this spring the earth had fallen from the door of the cash and exposed the saddles, he being informed of their situation had taken them up and placed them in another cash where they were at this time; he said it was probable that a part of them had fallen into the water but of this he was not certain. The Twisted hair said if we would spend the day tomorrow at his lodge which was a few miles only from hence and on the road leading to the Broken arm's lodge, he would collect such of our horses as were near this place and our saddles, that he would also send some young men over the Kooskooske to collect those in the forks and bring them to the lodge of the broken Arm to met us. he advised us to go to the lodge of the broken Arm as he said he was a Cheif of great emenence among them, and promised to accompany us thither if we wished him. we told him that we should take his advice in every particular, that we had confided the horses to his care and expected that he would collect them and deliver them to us which when he performed we should pay him the two guns and amunition we had promised him for that service. he seemed much pleased and promised his utmost exertions. we sent Drewyer to the Cutnose who also came to our fire and smoked with ourselves and the Twisted hair we took occasion in the course of the evening to express our regret that there should be a misunderstanding between these Cheifs; the Cutnose told us in the presents of the Twisted hair that he the twisted hair was a bad old man that he woar two faces, that in stead of taking care of our horses as he had promised us that he had suffered his young men to ride them hunting and had injured them very much; that this was the cause why himself and the Broken arm had forbid his using them. the other made no reply. we informed the Cutnose of our intention of spending tomorrow at the Twisted hair's lodge in order to collect our horses and saddles and that we should proceede the next day to the Broken Arm's lodge, he appeared well satisfyed with this arrangement and said he would continue with us, and would give us any assistance in his power; he said he knew the broken arm expected us at his lodge and that he had two bad horses for us, metaphorically speaking a present of two good horses. he said the broken arm had learnt our want of provision and had sent four of his young men with a supply to meet us but that they had taken a different road and had missed us.—about 10 P.M. our guests left us and we layed down to rest.
Thursday, May 8, 1806. Most of the hunters got up at dawn this morning, but a few stayed behind without our permission or knowledge until late in the morning. We scolded them harshly for their laziness and failure to follow last evening’s orders. Around 8 o'clock, Shields returned with a small deer, which we had for breakfast. By 11 A.M., all our hunters were back—Drewyer and Cruzatte each brought a deer, and Collins wounded another that my dog caught a little distance from the camp. Our food supply now included 4 deer and what was left of the horse we killed at Colter's Creek. Shields also killed an unusual duck, of which I preserved the head, beak, and wing. The beak is notably wide and bluntly pointed, with fine, long teeth along its edges that look like the teeth of a comb. The belly is a brick red, and the lower part of the neck is white. The upper part or butt of the wing is sky blue, with a narrow white stripe underneath that marks the wing transversely; the large feathers are dark. The tail is short and pointed, made up of 12 dark brown feathers. The back is black, the sides are white; the legs are yellow with feet that resemble those of a mallard duck, which it also resembles in size and shape. The eye is moderately large, with a black pupil and orange iris. The female looks just like the mallard duck but is somewhat smaller. We learned that the locals in this area suffered a lot for food last winter; they had to gather moss from pine trees, which they boiled and ate. Near our camp, I saw many pine trees that seemed to have been cut down that season, which they said was done to collect the seeds of the longleaf pine that also provides food during tough times. The seeds of this pine are about the size and shape of large sunflower seeds; they are nutritious and not unpleasant when roasted or boiled. This month, the locals also peel this pine and eat the tender inner bark. In the creek near our camp, I saw a falling trap built like those frequently seen in the eastern states for catching fish heading downstream. Captain C. caught several small trout from this trap. Neesh-ne-park-kee-ook and several other Indians joined us this morning. We gave this chief and the Indians with us some venison, horse meat, the entrails of the four deer, and four fawns we took from two does that were killed. They didn't eat any of their food raw, although the entrails had little preparation, and the fawns were boiled and eaten with hair, hide, and entrails. These people sometimes eat horse meat, but usually prefer to starve rather than kill their horses for food. This seems to stem more from their attachment to the animal than from a dislike of its meat, as I noticed many of them heartily ate the horse meat we provided. The Shoshone man was upset that we didn’t give him as much venison as he wanted and, as a result, refused to interpret for us. We ignored him for a while, and after a few hours he became very eager to regain our favor. The relation of the Twisted Hair and Neeshneparkkeook provided us with a sketch of the main waterways west of the Rocky Mountains, a copy of which I kept. They made the main southward branch of Lewis's River appear much larger than the others, placing many Shoshone villages on its western side. At 3:30 P.M., we left for the lodge of the Twisted Hair, accompanied by the chief and several other Indians. The relation of the Twisted Hair parted from us. The road took us up a steep, high hill to a flat plain with little timber, which we passed parallel to the river for about four miles until we encountered the Twisted Hair and a group of six men. We had trusted him with the care of our horses and some of our saddles when we descended the river last fall. The Twisted Hair greeted us coldly, which was very unexpected and confusing for us. He soon began to speak loudly and angrily. After he finished, he was answered by the Cutnose Chief, Neeshneparkkeook; we quickly realized that a violent quarrel had occurred between them, but at that moment, we didn’t know the reason. We later discovered that it was about our horses. This argument between the chiefs held us up for about 20 minutes; to end the dispute and ease our horses from their burdens, we told the chiefs we would continue our march to the first water source and set up camp accordingly. We moved on, and the Indians all followed. About two miles down the road, we reached a small creek that flowed to the right. There we set up camp for the evening, having traveled six miles today. The two chiefs and their small groups formed separate camps a short distance from ours, and they all seemed to be in a bad mood. We had been informed a few days earlier that the locals had found our saddles and taken them, and that our horses were scattered. We were eager to learn the specifics or truth of these reports from the Twisted Hair, as it would affect our decision on where to set up our permanent camp, which had become necessary due to the snow delay in the mountains. We wanted to retrieve our horses and saddles as quickly as possible and were somewhat worried that the conflict between the chiefs might interfere with this. Thus, we wanted to create a good understanding between them as soon as possible. The Shoshone boy refused to speak, claiming it was a quarrel between two chiefs and that he had nothing to do with it. We tried to persuade him that interpreting for us on this matter wouldn’t make him responsible for the conflict, but he stubbornly remained silent. About an hour after setting up camp, Drewyer returned from hunting. We sent him to the Twisted Hair to ask about our horses and saddles and to invite him to smoke with us. The Twisted Hair accepted the invitation and joined us by the fire. He informed us that, according to the promise he made us when we parted at the falls of the Columbia, he gathered our horses on his return and took charge of them. He continued that around this time, the Cutnose, or Neeshneparkkeook, and Tun-nach'-emoo-tools, or the Broken Arm, returned from a war expedition against the Shoshonees on the south branch of Lewis's River, which was why they were absent when we were in this area. These men became unhappy with him because we had entrusted our horses to his care, and they were always quarreling with him. Because he was an old man, he thought it best to let the horse business go, which caused them to become scattered. Most of the horses were near this location; some were in the fork between the Chopunnish and Kooskooske rivers, and three or four others were with the Broken Arm's lodge, about half a day’s walk further up the river. He told us that with the rise of the water this spring, the earth fell from the door of the cache and exposed the saddles. When he learned of their situation, he took them and put them in another cache, where they were currently. He said some of them might have fallen into the water, but he wasn’t certain. The Twisted Hair said that if we spent tomorrow at his lodge, which was only a few miles away and on the way to the Broken Arm’s lodge, he would gather the horses that were nearby and our saddles. He would also send some young men across the Kooskooske to fetch those in the forks and bring them to the Broken Arm’s lodge to meet us. He advised us to go to the Broken Arm’s lodge since he was a chief of great importance among them and promised to accompany us there if we wanted. We told him we would follow his advice in every detail, that we had entrusted the horses to his care, and we expected him to gather them and deliver them to us. Once he did that, we would pay him the two guns and ammunition we promised for that service. He seemed very pleased and assured us he would do his best. We sent Drewyer to the Cutnose, who also came to our fire and smoked with us and the Twisted Hair. During the evening, we expressed our regret that there was a misunderstanding between these chiefs. The Cutnose told us in front of the Twisted Hair that he was a bad old man who wore two faces; instead of caring for our horses as he promised, he allowed his young men to ride them for hunting, which had harmed them greatly. That was the reason he and the Broken Arm forbade him from using them. The other chief didn’t reply. We informed the Cutnose of our plan to spend tomorrow at the Twisted Hair’s lodge to gather our horses and saddles and that we would proceed the following day to the Broken Arm’s lodge. He seemed satisfied with this plan, saying he would stick with us and help us in any way he could. He mentioned that he knew the Broken Arm was expecting us at his lodge and had two bad horses for us—figuratively speaking, he meant a gift of two good horses. He said the Broken Arm had learned about our need for food and had sent four of his young men with a supply to meet us, but they had taken a different route and missed us. Around 10 P.M., our guests left us, and we lay down to rest.
[Clark, May 8, 1806]
Thursday 8th of May 1806. This morning our hunters was out by the time it was light. about 8 oClock Shields brought in a Small deer, on which we brackfast by 11 A.M. all our hunters returned Drewyer & P. Crusat brought in a Deer each & Collins wounded one which our Dog Caught near our Camp. Total of our Stock of provisions 4 deer & Some horse flesh. on the Small Creek which passes our Camp, the nativs have laterly encamped and as we are informed have been much distressed for provisions, they have fallen a number of Small pine in the vicinity of this Encampment for the Seed which is in the bur of which they eate. we are informed that they were Compelled to Collect the moss off the pine boil & eate it in the latter part of the last Winter. on the Creek near our Camp I observed a kind of trap which was made with great panes to catch the Small fish which pass down with the Stream This was a dam formed of Stone So as to Collect the water in a narrow part not exceeding 3 feet wide from which place the water Shot with great force and Scattered through Some Small willows Closely connected and fastened with bark. this mat of willow Switches was about 4 feet wide and 6 long lying in a horozontal position, fastened at the extremety. the Small fish which fell on those willows was washed on the Willows where they untill taken off &c. I cought or took off those willows 9 Small trout from 3 to 7 Inches in length. Soon after I returned from the fishery an Indian came from a fishery of a Similar kind a little above with 12 Small fish which he offered me which I declined axcepting as I found from his Signs that his house was a Short distance above, and that those fisheries afforded the principal part of the food for his Children. The Great Chief of the Bands below who has a cut nose joined us this morning. we gave the interals with 4 young fauns which was in two of the deer killed to day to the Indians also some of our deer & horse flesh. the Paunch of the deer they eate without any preperation further than washing them a little. the fauns they boiled and eate every part of them even the Skins with the hair. The Snake Indian was much displeased that he was not furnished with as much Deer as he could eate. he refused to Speake to the wife of Shabono, through whome we Could understand the nativs. we did not indulge him and in the after part of the day he Came too and Spoke verry well. one of the Indians drew me a Sketch of the river (See the latter part of this book) in this Sketch he makes the 1st large Southerly fork of Lewis's river much the longest and on which great numbers of the Snake Indians reside &c. at ____ P.M. we loaded up and Set on on the roade leading as we were informed to the lodge of the twisted hair, the Chief in whoes Care we had left our horses. we were accompanied by the Cut nose Chief our old Chief who had accompanied us down the river and Several men. we assended the hills which was Steep and emencely high to a leavel rich Country thinly timbered with pine. we had not proceeded more than 4 miles before we met the twisted hair and Several men meeting of us. we were verry coolly recved by the twisted hair. he Spoke aloud and was answered by the Cut Nose. we Could not learn what they Said. but plainly discovered that a missunderstanding had taken place between them. we made Signs to them that we Should proceed on to the next water and encamp. accordingly I set out and they all followed. we had not proceeded far before the road Crossed a Small handsom Stream on which we encamped. The parties of those two Chiefs took different positions at Some distance from each other and all appeared Sulkey. after we had formed our Camp we Sent Drewyer with a pipe to Smoke with the twisted hair and lern the Cause of the dispute between him and the Cut nose, and also to invite him to our fire to Smoke with us. The twisted hair came to our fire to Smoke we then Sent drewyer to the Cut Noses fire with the Same directions. he returned and informed us that the Cut nose Said he would join us in a fiew minits. it appears that the Cause of the quarrel between those two men is about our horses. and we cannot lern the particulars of this quarrel which probably originated through jelousy on the part of the Cut nose who blames the twisted hair for Suffer our horses to be rode, and want water dureing the Winter &c. twisted hair Says the horses were taken from him &c. The Cut nose joined us in a Short time We Smoked with all the party of both Chiefs, and told them that we were Sorry to find them at varience with each other the cut nose said that the twisted hair was a bad man and wore two fases, that he had not taken care of our horses as was expected. that himself an the broken arm had Caused our horses to be Watered in the winter and had them drove together, and that if we would proceed on to the village of the great Chief whome we had left a flag last fall the broken arm he would Send for our horses, that he had himself three of them. he also informed us that the great Chief hering of our distressed Situation had Sent his Son and 4 men to meet us and have us furnished on the way &c. that the young men had missed us and Could never over take us untill this time. that the great chief had 2 bad horses for us and expected us to go to his lodge which was near the river and about half a days march above &c. The twisted hair told us that he wished to Smoke with us at his lodge which was on the road leading to the Great Chiefs lodge, and but a fiew miles a head. if we would delay at his lodge tomorrow he would go after our Saddles and horses which was near the place we made our Canoes last fall. we deturmined to Set out early in the morning and proceed on to the lodge of the twisted hair and Send for our Saddles and powder which we had left burried mear the forks. and the day after tomorrow to proceed on to the lodge of the Grand Chief. accordingly we informed the Indians of our intentions. we all Smoked and conversed untill about 10 P M. the Indians retired and we lay down. Derected 5 hunters to turn out early in the morning to hunt and meet us at the twisted hair's lodge.
Thursday, May 8, 1806. This morning, our hunters were out by the time it was light. Around 8 o'clock, Shields brought in a small deer, and we had breakfast by 11 A.M. All our hunters returned; Drewyer and P. Crusat each brought in a deer, and Collins wounded one that our dog caught near our camp. Our total stock of provisions included 4 deer and some horse meat. A group of natives recently camped by the small creek passing our camp, and we learned they have been struggling for food. They cut down several small pines in the area for the seeds found in the bur, which they eat. We were told they had to collect moss from the pines and boil it to eat during the latter part of last winter. Near our camp, I noticed a kind of trap made of large panes to catch the small fish moving down the stream. This was a stone dam built to collect water in a narrow area not more than 3 feet wide, from which the water shot out forcefully and scattered through some small willows tightly bound with bark. This mat of willow switches was about 4 feet wide and 6 feet long, lying horizontally and fastened at one end. The small fish that landed on the willows would get washed onto the willows until they were removed, etc. I caught or removed 9 small trout from 3 to 7 inches in length from those willows. Shortly after returning from fishing, an Indian came from a similar fishery a little upstream with 12 small fish, which he offered me, but I declined except for learning from his gestures that his home was a short distance above and that those fisheries provided most of the food for his children. The great chief of the bands below, who has a cut nose, joined us this morning. We gave the innards and 4 young fawns found in two of the deer killed today to the Indians, as well as some of our deer and horse meat. The natives ate the stomachs of the deer without any preparation other than washing them a bit. They boiled the fawns and consumed every part, even the skins with the hair. The Snake Indian was very unhappy that he wasn't given as much deer meat as he wanted. He refused to speak to Shabono's wife, through whom we could communicate with the natives. We didn't indulge him, and later in the day, he came around and spoke very well. One of the Indians drew me a sketch of the river (See the latter part of this book). In this sketch, he made the first large southerly fork of Lewis's River much longer, where many Snake Indians reside, etc. At ____ P.M., we packed up and set out on the road leading, as we were informed, to the lodge of the Twisted Hair, the chief in whose care we had left our horses. We were accompanied by the Cut Nose chief, our old chief who had accompanied us down the river, and several men. We ascended the steep and immensely high hills to a level, rich country thinly timbered with pine. We had not traveled more than 4 miles before we met the Twisted Hair and several men who were coming toward us. We were received very coolly by the Twisted Hair. He spoke loudly and was answered by the Cut Nose. We couldn't understand what they said but clearly saw that a misunderstanding had occurred between them. We gestured to them that we intended to move on to the next water and set up camp. Accordingly, I set out, and they all followed. We hadn't gone far before the road crossed a small, beautiful stream, where we camped. The parties of these two chiefs took different positions some distance apart, and all looked sulky. After we set up camp, we sent Drewyer with a pipe to smoke with the Twisted Hair and learn the cause of the dispute between him and the Cut Nose, and to invite him to smoke with us. The Twisted Hair came to our fire to smoke, and we then sent Drewyer to the Cut Nose's fire with the same message. He returned and informed us that the Cut Nose said he would join us in a few minutes. It seems the quarrel between these two men was about our horses, but we couldn’t learn the details, which probably stemmed from jealousy on the part of the Cut Nose, who blamed the Twisted Hair for allowing our horses to be ridden and for not having enough water during the winter, etc. The Twisted Hair claimed the horses were taken from him, etc. The Cut Nose soon joined us, and we smoked with both chiefs’ parties, expressing our regret to find them at odds with one another. The Cut Nose said that the Twisted Hair was a bad man with two faces, that he didn't take care of our horses as expected. He claimed that he and Broken Arm had ensured our horses were watered in the winter and had rounded them up together, and that if we proceeded to the village of the great chief, to whom we had left a flag last fall, Broken Arm would send for our horses, mentioning he had three of them himself. He also informed us that the great chief, hearing of our difficult situation, had sent his son and four men to meet us and provide for us on the way, etc., but the young men missed us and could not catch up until this time. The great chief had two poor horses for us and expected us to go to his lodge, which was near the river and about half a day's march away, etc. The Twisted Hair told us that he wanted to smoke with us at his lodge, which was on the road to the Great Chief's lodge and just a few miles ahead. If we stayed at his lodge tomorrow, he would go after our saddles and horses, which were near where we made our canoes last fall. We decided to set out early in the morning, proceed to the lodge of the Twisted Hair, and send for our saddles and powder, which we had buried near the forks, and the day after tomorrow to head to the lodge of the Grand Chief. Accordingly, we informed the Indians of our plans. We all smoked and chatted until about 10 P.M. The Indians retired, and we lay down. I directed 5 hunters to get up early in the morning to hunt and meet us at the Twisted Hair's lodge.
[Lewis, May 9, 1806]
Friday May 9th 1806. We sent out several hunters early this morning with instructions to meet us at the lodge of the Twisted hair. Collecting our horses detained us untill 9 A.M. when we charged our packhorses and set out. our rout lay through a level rich country similar to that of yesterday; at the distance of 6 miles we arrived at the lodge of the twisted hair; this habitation was built in the usual form with sticks mats and dryed hay, and contained 2 firs and about 12 persons. even at this small habitation there was an appendage of the soletary lodge, the retreat of the tawny damsels when nature causes them to be driven into coventry; here we halted as had been previously concerted, and one man with 2 horses accompayed the twisted hair to the canoe camp, about 4 ms. in quest of the saddles. the Twisted hair sent two young men in surch of our horses agreeably to his promis. The country along the rocky mountains for several hundred miles in length and about 50 in width is level extreemly fertile and in many parts covered with a tall and open growth of the longleafed pine. near the watercouses the hills are steep and lofty tho are covered with a good soil not remarkably stony and possess more timber than the level country. the bottom lands on the watercourses are reather narrow and confined tho fertile & seldom inundated. this country would form an extensive settlement; the climate appears quite as mild as that of similar latitude on the Atlantic coast if not more so and it cannot be otherwise than healthy; it possesses a fine dry pure air. the grass and many plants are now upwards of knee high. I have no doubt but this tract of country if cultivated would produce in great abundance every article essentially necessary to the comfort and subsistence of civillized man. to it's present inhabitants nature seems to have dealt with a liberal hand, for she has distributed a great variety of esculent plants over the face of the country which furnish them a plentiful) store of provision; these are acquired with but little toil, and when prepared after the method of the natives afford not only a nutricious but an agreeable food. among other roots those called by them the Quawmash and Cows are esteemed the most agreeable and valuable as they are also the most abundant. the cows is a knobbed root of an irregularly rounded form not unlike the Gensang in form and consistence. this root they collect, rub of a thin black rhind which covers it and pounding it expose it in cakes to the sun. these cakes ate about an inch and 1/4 thick and 6 by 18 in width, when dryed they either eat this bread alone without any further preperation, or boil it and make a thick muselage; the latter is most common and much the most agreeable. the flavor of this root is not very unlike the gensang.—this root they collect as early as the snows disappear in the spring and continue to collect it until) the quawmash supplys it's place which happens about the latter end of June. the quawmash is also collected for a few weaks after it first makes it's appearance in the spring, but when the scape appears it is no longer fit for use untill the seed are ripe which happens about the time just mentioned, and then the cows declines. the latter is also frequently dryed in the sun and pounded afterwards and then used in making soope.—I observed a few trees of the larch and a few small bushes of the balsam fir near the lodge of the Twisted hair. at 2 P.M. our hunters joined us Drewyer killed a deer but lost it in the river. a few pheasants was the produce of the hunt. we procured a few roots of cows of which we made scope. late in the evening The Twisted hair and Willard returned; they brought about half of our saddles, and some powder and lead which had been buried at that place. my saddle was among the number of those which were lost. about the same time the young men arrived with 21 of our horses. the greater part of our horses were in fine order. five of them appeared to have been so much injured by the indians riding them last fall that they had not yet recovered and were in low order. three others had soar backs. we had these horses caught and hubbled. the situation of our camp was a disagreeable one in an open plain; the wind blew violently and was cold. at seven P.M. it began to rain and hail, at 9 it was succeeded by a heavy shower of snow which continued untill the next morning.—several indians joined us this evening from the village of the broken arm or Tunnachemootoolt and continued all night. The man who had imposed himself on us as a relation of the twisted hair rejoined us this evening we found him an impertinent proud supercilious fellow and of no kind of rispectability in the nation, we therefore did not indulge his advances towards a very intimate connection. The Cutnose lodged with the twisted hair I beleive they have become good friends again. several indians slept about us.
Friday, May 9th, 1806. We sent out several hunters early this morning with instructions to meet us at the lodge of the Twisted Hair. Collecting our horses delayed us until 9 A.M., when we loaded our pack horses and set out. Our route took us through a flat, fertile area similar to that of yesterday; after traveling 6 miles, we arrived at the lodge of the Twisted Hair. This dwelling was built in the usual style with sticks, mats, and dried hay, and it housed 2 fires and about 12 people. Even at this small lodge, there was a secluded spot for the young women, where they retreat when nature keeps them apart from others. We stopped here as previously arranged, and one man with 2 horses accompanied the Twisted Hair to the canoe camp, about 4 miles away, to retrieve the saddles. The Twisted Hair sent two young men in search of our horses as promised. The area along the Rocky Mountains stretches for several hundred miles in length and about 50 in width; it's very flat, extremely fertile, and many parts are covered with a tall and open growth of longleaf pine. Near the waterways, the hills are steep and tall, though they are covered with good soil that isn't very rocky and has more timber than the flatlands. The bottom lands along the watercourses are somewhat narrow and confined, yet fertile and rarely flooded. This area would make for a large settlement; the climate seems just as mild as that of similar latitudes on the Atlantic coast, if not milder, and it should be quite healthy; it has fine, dry, pure air. The grass and many plants are now over knee-high. I have no doubt that this area, if farmed, could produce in great abundance every item essential for the comfort and sustenance of civilized people. For its current inhabitants, nature seems to have been generous, distributing a wide variety of edible plants throughout the land, which provide them with an ample supply of food; these are gathered with little effort and, when prepared in the traditional way, offer both nutritious and enjoyable meals. Among other roots, those called Quawmash and Cows are considered the most pleasant and valuable, and they are also the most abundant. The Cow is a knobby root, irregularly rounded, not unlike the Ginseng in shape and texture. They collect this root, scrape off the thin black skin covering it, and pound it into cakes that are dried in the sun. These cakes are about 1¼ inches thick and 6 by 18 inches wide; when dried, they either eat this bread as is, without further preparation, or boil it to make a thick mush; the latter is more common and much more enjoyable. The flavor of this root is somewhat similar to Ginseng. They start gathering this root as soon as the snow melts in spring and continue until the Quawmash takes its place, which happens around the end of June. The Quawmash is also collected for a few weeks after it first appears in spring, but once the stalk appears, it’s fit for use only until the seeds ripen, usually around the same time mentioned, after which the Cow declines. The latter is also often dried in the sun and pounded for use in making soup. I noticed a few larch trees and a few small balsam fir bushes near the lodge of the Twisted Hair. At 2 P.M., our hunters rejoined us; Drewyer killed a deer but lost it in the river. A few pheasants were the result of the hunt. We gathered some Cow roots, which we used to make soup. Late in the evening, the Twisted Hair and Willard returned; they brought back about half of our saddles and some powder and lead that had been buried there. My saddle was among the lost ones. Around the same time, the young men returned with 21 of our horses. Most of our horses were in great condition. Five of them seemed to have been so worn down by the Indians riding them last fall that they hadn’t fully recovered and were in poor condition. Three others had sore backs. We had these horses caught and hobbled. Our camp was in an uncomfortable spot in an open plain; the wind was blowing hard and was cold. At 7 P.M., it started to rain and hail; by 9, this was followed by a heavy snowfall that lasted until the next morning. Several Indians joined us that evening from the village of the Broken Arm, or Tunnachemootoolt, and stayed overnight. The man who pretended to be related to the Twisted Hair rejoined us in the evening; we found him to be an arrogant, proud, self-important person with no respect in the community, so we did not encourage his advances toward a close relationship. The Cutnose stayed with the Twisted Hair; I believe they have reconciled. Several Indians slept around us.
[Clark, May 9, 1806]
Friday 9th May 1806 The hunters Set out very early agreeable to their derections. we were detained untill 9 A.M. for our horses which were much Scattered at which time we Collected our horses and Set out and proceeded on through a butifull open rich Country for 6 miles to the Camp of the twisted hair. this Campment is formed of two Lodges built in the usial form of mats and Straw. the largest and principal Lodge is Calculated for 2 fires only and Contains about ____ persons. the Second lodge is Small & appears to be intended for the Sick women who always retire to a Seperate lodge when they have the ____ this Custom is Common to all the nations on this river as well as among all other Indian nations with whom I am acquainted. at the distance of 2 miles we passd. a lodge of 2 fires on a fork of the road which leads to the right Situated on a Small branch which falls into Musquetor Creek. before 2 P M all our hunters joined us haveing killed only one deer which was lost in the river and a pheasent. Soon after we halted at the lodge of the twisted hair he Set out with two boys and Willard with a pack horse down to the river near the place we made the Canoes for our Saddles and a Cannister of powder and Some lead buried there, also a part of our horses which resorted near that place. late in the evening they returned with 21 of our horse and about half of our Saddles with the powder and ball. The greater part of the horses were in fine order, tho five of them had been rode & worsted in Such a manner last fall by the Inds. that they had not recovered and are in very low order, and 3 with Sore backs. we had all the recovered horses Cought & hobbled. we precured Some pounded roots of which a Supe was made thick on which we Suped. the wind blew hard from the S. W. accompanied with rain untill from 7 oClock untill 9 P.M. when it began to Snow and Continued all night. Several Indians Came from the village of the Chief with whome we had left a flag and Continued with us all night. they slept in the house of the twisted hair and two of them along Side of us.
Friday, May 9, 1806 The hunters set out very early as planned. We were held up until 9 A.M. waiting for our horses, which were scattered. At that time, we gathered our horses and left, traveling through beautiful, rich countryside for 6 miles to the Camp of the Twisted Hair. This camp is made up of two lodges built in the usual style of mats and straw. The largest and main lodge is designed for 2 fires and can accommodate about ____ people. The second lodge is smaller and seems to be for sick women, who always retire to a separate lodge when they are unwell. This practice is common among all the nations along this river, as well as with other Indian nations I know. After 2 miles, we passed a lodge with 2 fires at a fork in the road that leads to the right, situated on a small branch that flows into Musquetor Creek. Before 2 P.M., all our hunters had joined us, having only killed one deer, which was lost in the river, and a pheasant. Shortly after, we stopped at the lodge of the Twisted Hair. He left with two boys and Willard, taking a pack horse down to the river near where we made the canoes for our saddles and a canister of powder and some lead that we buried there, as well as some of our horses that had gathered near the spot. Late in the evening, they returned with 21 of our horses and about half of our saddles, along with the powder and balls. Most of the horses were in good condition, although five had been ridden hard by the Indians last fall and had not recovered, so they were in poor shape, and three had sore backs. We caught and hobbled all the recovered horses. We also procured some pounded roots, which were made into a thick soup that we ate. The wind blew strongly from the southwest, with rain from 7 o'clock until 9 P.M., when it started to snow and continued all night. Several Indians came from the chief's village, with whom we had left a flag, and stayed with us all night. They slept in the house of the Twisted Hair, and two of them slept beside us.
[Lewis, May 10, 1806]
Saturday May 10th 1806. This morning the snow continued falling 1/2 after 6 A.M. when it ceased, the air keen and cold, the snow 8 inches deep on the plain; we collected our horses and after taking a scant breakfast of roots we set out for the village of Tunnachemootoolt; our rout lay through an open plain course S. 35 E. and distance 16 ms. the road was slippery and the snow clogged to the horses feet, and caused them to trip frequently. the mud at the sources of the little ravines was deep black and well supplyed with quawmash. Drewyer turned off to the left of the road in order to hunt and did not join us this evening. at 4 in the afternoon we decended the hills to Commearp Creek and arrived at the Village of Tunnachemootoolt, the cheeif at whos lodge we had left a flag last fall. this flag was now displayed on a staff placed at no great distance from the lodge. underneath the flag the Cheif met my friend Capt. C. who was in front and conducted him about 80 yds. to a place on the bank of the creek where he requested we should encamp; I came up in a few minutes and we collected the Cheifs and men of consideration smoked with them and stated our situation with rispect to provision. the Cheif spoke to his people and they produced us about 2 bushels of the Quawmas roots dryed, four cakes of the bread of cows and a dryed salmon trout. We thanked them for this store of provision but informed them that our men not being accustomed to live on roots alone we feared it would make them sick, to obviate which we proposed exchangeing a good horse in reather low order for a young horse in tolerable order with a view to kill. the hospitality of the cheif revolted at the aydea of an exchange, he told us that his young men had a great abundance of young horses and if we wished to eat them we should by furnished with as many as we wanted. accordingly they soon produced us two fat young horses one of which we killed, the other we informed them we would pospone killing untill we had consumed the one already killed. This is a much greater act of hospitality than we have witnessed from any nation or tribe since we have passed the Rocky mountains. in short be it spoken to their immortal honor it is the only act which deserves the appellation of hospitallity which we have witnessed in this quarter. we informed these people that we were hungry and fatiegued at this moment, that when we had eaten and refreshed ourselves we would inform them who we were, from whence we had come and the objects of our resurches. a principal Cheif by name Ho-hast,-ill-pilp arrived with a party of fifty men mounted on eligant horses. he had come on a visit to us from his village which is situated about six miles distant near the river. we invited this man into our circle and smoked with him, his retinue continued on horseback at a little distance. after we had eaten a few roots we spoke to them as we had promised; and gave Tinnachemootoolt and Hohastillpilp each a medal; the former one of the small size with the likeness of Mr. Jefferson and the latter one of the sewing medals struck in the presidency of Washington, we explained to them the desighn and the importance of medals in the estimation of the whites as well as the red men who had been taught their value. The Cheif had a large conic lodge of leather erected for our reception and a parsel of wood collected and laid at the door after which he invited Capt. C. and myself to make that lodge our home while we remained with him. we had a fire lighted in this lodge and retired to it accompanyed by the Cheifs and as many of the considerate men as could croud in a circcle within it. here after we had taken a repast on some horsebeef we resumed our council with the indians which together with smoking the pipe occupyed the ballance of the evening. I was surprised to find on decending the hills of Commearp Cr. to find that there had been no snow in the bottoms of that stream. it seems that the snow melted in falling and decended here in rain while it snowed on the plains. the hills are about six hundred feet high about one fourth of which distance the snow had decended and still lay on the sides of the hills. as these people had been liberal with is with rispect to provision I directed the men not to croud their lodge surch of food in the manner hunger has compelled them to do at most lodges we have passed, and which the Twisted hair had informed me was disgreeable to the natives. but their previous want of hospitality had induced us to consult their enclinations but little and suffer our men to obtain provision from them on the best terms they could. The village of the broken arm as I have heretofore termed it consists of one house only which is 150 feet in length built in the usual form of sticks matts and dry grass. it contains twenty four fires and about double that number of families. from appearances I presume they could raise 100 fighting men. the noise of their women pounding roots reminds me of a nail factory. The indians seem well pleased, and I am confident that they are not more so than our men who have their somachs once more well filled with horsebeef and mush of the bread of cows.—the house of coventry is also seen here.-
Saturday, May 10th, 1806. This morning, the snow kept falling until around 6:30 A.M. when it finally stopped. The air was sharp and cold, and the snow was 8 inches deep on the plain. We gathered our horses and, after a light breakfast of roots, set out for the village of Tunnachemootoolt. Our route took us through an open plain heading S. 35 E. over a distance of 16 miles. The road was slippery, and the snow kept getting stuck in the horses' feet, causing them to trip often. The mud at the source of the little ravines was deep black and well-supplied with quawmash. Drewyer turned off the road to hunt and didn’t join us this evening. At 4 in the afternoon, we descended the hills to Commearp Creek and arrived at the village of Tunnachemootoolt. The chief, at whose lodge we had left a flag last fall, displayed it on a staff not far from his lodge. Underneath the flag, the Chief met my friend Capt. C., who was in front, and guided him about 80 yards to a spot on the creek bank where he asked us to set up camp. I arrived a few minutes later, and we gathered the chief and some important men to smoke with them and explain our situation regarding provisions. The Chief spoke to his people, and they brought us about 2 bushels of dried quawmash roots, four cakes of cow's bread, and a dried salmon trout. We thanked them for this food but explained that our men were not used to living on roots alone and we feared they might get sick. To avoid this, we suggested exchanging a rather low-quality horse for a younger but decent one to kill for meat. The Chief was offended by the idea of an exchange and told us that his young men had plenty of young horses and if we wanted to eat them, he would provide as many as we needed. Soon after, they brought us two fat young horses, one of which we killed, while we informed them we would wait to kill the second until we had eaten the first. This was a much greater act of hospitality than we have experienced from any nation or tribe since we passed the Rocky Mountains. Truly, to their lasting honor, this is the only act deserving of the term hospitality that we have witnessed in this area. We told these people we were hungry and tired, and that once we had eaten and refreshed ourselves, we would explain who we were, where we had come from, and the purpose of our research. A prominent chief named Ho-hast,-ill-pilp arrived with a party of fifty men on elegant horses. He had come to visit us from his village, located about six miles away near the river. We invited him into our circle and smoked with him, while his followers stayed a little distance away on horseback. After having eaten some roots, we spoke to them as promised and presented Tunnachemootoolt and Ho-hast,-ill-pilp each with a medal; the first received a small one featuring Mr. Jefferson’s likeness, and the latter received one of the sewing medals struck during Washington’s presidency. We explained the significance of the medals and their importance to both whites and Native Americans who had been taught their value. The Chief had a large conical lodge of leather set up for our reception, with a pile of wood collected and laid at the entrance, and then he invited Capt. C. and me to make that lodge our home while we stayed with him. We lit a fire in the lodge and entered, accompanied by the Chief and as many respected men as could fit in a circle inside. After enjoying a meal of horse beef, we resumed our council with the Indians, which, along with smoking the pipe, occupied the rest of the evening. I was surprised to find, upon descending the hills of Commearp Creek, that there had been no snow in the valley. It appeared that the snow melted as it fell and came down as rain here, while it snowed on the plains. The hills are about six hundred feet high, with snow having melted at about one-fourth of that distance, still lying on the hillsides. Since these people had been generous with us concerning provisions, I instructed our men not to crowd their lodge searching for food as hunger had compelled them to do at most lodges we had visited, which Twisted Hair had said was unpleasant for the natives. However, their previous lack of hospitality had led us to pay little attention to their preferences, allowing our men to obtain provisions from them on whatever terms they could. The village of the Broken Arm, as I have referred to it before, consists of only one house measuring 150 feet in length, built in the usual style of sticks, mats, and dry grass. It contains twenty-four fires and about twice that number of families. From what I saw, I estimate they could raise 100 fighting men. The sound of their women pounding roots reminds me of a nail factory. The Indians seem pleased, and I am sure they are no more so than our men, who once again have their stomachs filled with horse beef and cow bread mush. The House of Coventry is also visible here.
[Clark, May 10, 1806]
Saturday 10th of May 1806 This morning the Snow continued falling untill 1/2 past 6 A M when it Seased. the air keen and Cold the Snow 8 inches deep on the plain. we Collected our horses and after takeing a Scanty brackfast of roots, we Set out for the Village of the Chief with a flag, and proceeded on through an open plain. the road was Slipry and the Snow Cloged and caused the horses to trip very frequently. the mud at heads of the Streams which we passed was deep and well Supplied with the Car mash. Drewyer turned off the road to hunt near the river to our lef and did not join us to day. at 4 P M we arrived at the Village of Tin nach-e-moo-toolt the Chief whome We had left a flag. this flag was hoisted on a pole unde the flag the Chief met me and Conducted me to a Spot near a Small run about 80 paces from his Lodges where he requested me to halt which I did. Soon after Cap Lewis who was in the rear Came up and we Smoked with and told this Chief our Situation in respect to provisions. they brought foward about 2 bushels of quawmash 4 Cakes of bread made of roots and a dried fish. we informed the Chief that our Party was not accustomed to eate roots without flesh & proposed to exchange Some of our oald horses for young ones to eate. they Said that they would not exchange horses, but would furnish us with Such as we wished, and produced 2 one of which we killed and informd. them that we did not wish to kill the other at this time. we gave Medals to the broken arm or Tin-nach-e-moo tolt and Hoh-halt-ill-pitp two principal Chiefs of the Chopunnish Natn. and was informed that there was one other Great Chief (in all 4) who had but one eye. he would be here tomorrow. a large Lodge of Leather was pitched and Capt. Lewis and my Self was envited into it. we entered and the Chief and principal men came into the lodge and formed a Circle a parcel of wood was Collected and laid at the dore and a fire made in this Conic lodge before we entered it. the Chief requested that we might make the Lodge our homes while we remained with him. here after we had taken a repast on roots & horse beef we resumed our Council with the indians which together with Smokeing took up the ballance of the evening. I was Supprised to find decending the hill to Commearp Creek to find that there had been no snow in the bottoms of that Stream. it seams that the Snow melted in falling and decended here in rain while it snowed in the plain. the hills are about Eight hundred feet high about 1/4 of which distance the Snow had decended and Still lay on the Sides of the hill. as those people had been liberal I directed the men not to croud their Lodge in serch of food the manner hunger has Compelled them to do, at most lodges we have passed, and which the Twisted Hair had informed us was disagreeable to the nativs. but their previous want of hospitality had enduced us to consult their enclinations but little and Suffer our men to obtain provisions from them on the best terms they could.
Saturday, May 10, 1806 This morning, the snow kept falling until 6:30 AM when it stopped. The air was sharp and cold, with snow 8 inches deep on the plain. We gathered our horses and, after having a light breakfast of roots, set out for the Chief's village with a flag. We continued through an open plain. The path was slippery, and the snow was heavy, causing the horses to stumble frequently. The mud at the heads of the streams we crossed was deep and full of camas. Drewyer went off the road to hunt near the river on our left and did not rejoin us today. At 4 PM, we arrived at the village of Tin nach-e-moo-tool, where we had left a flag. The flag was raised on a pole, and the Chief met me and led me to a spot near a small stream about 80 paces from his lodges, where he asked me to stop, which I did. Soon after, Captain Lewis, who was behind, arrived, and we smoked and informed the Chief of our situation regarding provisions. They brought forward about 2 bushels of camas, 4 cakes of bread made from roots, and a dried fish. We told the Chief that our group wasn't used to eating roots without meat and suggested trading some of our old horses for younger ones to eat. They said they wouldn’t trade horses but would provide us with what we needed, and they brought out 2, one of which we killed and informed them that we didn’t want to kill the other one at this time. We gave medals to the broken-arm chief, or Tin-nach-e-moo-tool, and Hoh-halt-ill-pitp, two principal chiefs of the Chopunnish Nation, and were told there was one more great chief (four in total) who had only one eye. He would arrive tomorrow. A large leather lodge was set up, and Captain Lewis and I were invited inside. We went in, and the Chief and the principal men entered, forming a circle. A pile of wood was collected and laid at the door, and a fire was made in this conical lodge before we came in. The Chief requested that we make the lodge our home while we stayed with him. After having a meal of roots and horsemeat, we resumed our council with the Indians, which, along with smoking, took up the rest of the evening. I was surprised to find, while descending the hill to Commearp Creek, that there had been no snow in the bottoms of that stream. It seems the snow melted as it fell and came down here as rain while it snowed on the plain. The hills are about 800 feet high, and about a quarter of that distance had snow that had melted but still lay on the sides of the hill. Since these people had been generous, I instructed the men not to crowd their lodge in search of food, as hunger had compelled them to do at most lodges we had passed, which the Twisted Hair had informed us was displeasing to the natives. However, their previous lack of hospitality had led us to consider their preferences very little and allow our men to obtain provisions from them on the best terms possible.
The Village of the broken Arm consists of one house or Lodge only which is 150 feet in length built in the usial form of Sticks, Mats and dry grass. it contains 24 fires and about double that number of families. from appearance I prosume they could raise 100 fighting men. the noise of their women pounding the cows roots remind me of a nail factory. The Indians appear well pleased, and I am Confident that they are not more so than our men who have their Stomach once more well filled with horse beef and the bread of cows. Those people has Shewn much greater acts of hospitallity than we have witnessed from any nation or tribe Since we have passed the rocky Mountains. in Short be it Spoken to their immortal honor it is the only act which diserves the appelation of hospitallity which we have witnessed in this quarter.
The Village of the Broken Arm consists of just one house or lodge, which is 150 feet long and built in the usual style of sticks, mats, and dry grass. It has 24 fires and about twice that number of families. From what I can see, they could raise 100 fighting men. The sound of their women pounding the roots of cows reminds me of a nail factory. The Indians seem quite pleased, and I’m sure they’re not any more so than our men, who once again have their stomachs filled with horse beef and cow bread. These people have shown much greater acts of hospitality than we’ve witnessed from any nation or tribe since we crossed the Rocky Mountains. In short, to their everlasting honor, it is the only act that deserves the title of hospitality we’ve seen in this area.
[Lewis, May 11, 1806]
Sunday May 11th 1806. The last evening we were much crouded with the indians in our lodge, the whole floor of which was covered with their sleeping carcases. we arrose early and took breakfast. at 8 A.M. a Cheif of great note among these people arrived from his village or lodge on the S. side of Lewis's River. this is a stout fellow of good countenance about 40 years of age and has lost the left eye. his name is Yoom-park'-kar-tim. to this man we gave a medal of the smal kind. those with the likeness of Mr. Jefferson have all been disposed of except one of the largest size which we reserve for some great Cheif on the Yellow rock river. we now pretty fully informed ourselves that Tunnachemootoolt, Neeshneparkkeeook, Yoomparkkartim and Hohastillpilp were the principal Cheif of the Chopunnish nation and ranked in the order here mentioned; as all those cheifs were present in our lodge we thought it a favourable time to repeat what had been said yesterday and to enter more minutely into the views of our government with rispect to the inhabitants of this western part of the continent, their intention of establishing trading houses for their releif, their wish to restore peace and harmony among the natives, the strength power and wealth of our nation &c. to this end we drew a map of the country with a coal on a mat in their way and by the assistance of the snake boy and our interpretters were enabled to make ourselves understood by them altho it had to pass through the French, Minnetare, Shoshone and Chopunnish languages. the interpretation being tedious it ocupyed nearly half the day before we had communicated to them what we wished. they appeared highly pleased. after this council was over we amused ourselves with shewing them the power of magnetism, the spye glass, compass, watch, air-gun and sundry other articles equally novel and incomprehensible to them. they informed us that after we had left the Minnetares last spring that three of their people had visited that nation and that they had informed them of us and had told them that we had such things in our possession but that they could not place confidence in the information untill they had now witnessed it themselves.—A young man, son of a conspicuous Cheif among these people who was killed not long since by the Minnetares of Fort de Prarie, brought and presented us a very fine mare and colt. he said he had opened his ears to our councils and would observe them strictly, and that our words had made his heart glad. he requested that we would accept this mear and colt which he gave in token of his determination to pursue our advise.—about 3 P.M. Drewyer arrived with 2 deer which he had killed. he informed us that the snow still continued to cover the plain. many of the natives apply to us for medical aid which we gave them cheerfully so far as our skill and store of medicine would enable us. schrofela, ulsers, rheumatism, soar eyes, and the loss of the uce of their limbs are the most common cases among them. the latter case is not very common but we have seen thee instances of it among the Chopunnish. it is a very extraordinary complaint. a Cheif of considerable note at this place has been afflicted with it for three years, he is incapable of moving a single limb but lies like a corps in whatever position he is placed, yet he eats heartily, digests his food perfectly, injoys his understanding, his pulse are good, and has retained his flesh almost perfectly, in short were it not that he appears a little pale from having lain so long in the shade he might well be taken for a man in good health. I suspect that their confinement to a diet of roots may give rise to all those disorders except the rheumatism & soar eyes, and to the latter of these, the state of debility incident to a vegetable diet may measureably contribute.—The Chopunnish notwithstanding they live in the crouded manner before mentioned are much more clenly in their persons and habitations than any nation we have seen since we left the Ottoes on the river Platte.—The Twisted hair brought us six of our horses.
Sunday, May 11th, 1806. Last evening, we were quite crowded with the Indians in our lodge, where the entire floor was covered with their sleeping bodies. We got up early and had breakfast. At 8 A.M., a notable chief from the south side of Lewis's River arrived from his village. He is a strong-looking man, around 40 years old, and has lost his left eye. His name is Yoom-park'-kar-tim. We gave him a small medal; the ones with Mr. Jefferson's likeness are all gone except for one large one, which we’re saving for a great chief on the Yellow Rock River. We learned that Tunnachemootoolt, Neeshneparkkeeook, Yoomparkkartim, and Hohastillpilp are the principal chiefs of the Chopunnish nation, ranked in the order mentioned. Since all these chiefs were in our lodge, we thought it was a good time to reiterate what we had said yesterday and to explain more about our government's intentions regarding the inhabitants of this western part of the continent—our plans to establish trading posts for their benefit, our wish to promote peace and harmony among the tribes, the strength, power, and wealth of our nation, etc. To this end, we drew a map of the area on a mat with charcoal, and with the help of the Snake boy and our interpreters, we managed to make ourselves understood, even though it had to be translated through French, Minnetare, Shoshone, and Chopunnish languages. The interpretation took a long time, so it took nearly half the day to communicate what we wanted. They seemed very pleased. After the council ended, we entertained ourselves by demonstrating the power of magnetism, the spyglass, compass, watch, air gun, and various other items that were equally new and incomprehensible to them. They told us that after we left the Minnetares last spring, three of their people visited that nation and informed them about us and mentioned that we had such things, but they couldn’t trust the information until they saw it for themselves. A young man, the son of a notable chief among them who was recently killed by the Minnetares of Fort de Prairie, brought us a very nice mare and colt. He said he had listened to our advice and intended to follow it strictly, and that our words had made him happy. He asked us to accept the mare and colt as a sign of his commitment to follow our guidance. Around 3 P.M., Drewyer showed up with two deer he had killed. He reported that snow still covered the plains. Many of the locals came to us for medical assistance, which we provided willingly as far as our skills and medicine supplies allowed. Common ailments among them include scrofula, ulcers, rheumatism, sore eyes, and loss of the use of their limbs. The latter condition is not very common, but we have seen three cases among the Chopunnish. It’s a very unusual complaint. A notable chief here has suffered from it for three years; he cannot move any limbs and lies like a corpse in whatever position he is placed, yet he eats well, digests his food perfectly, retains his understanding, has good pulse, and keeps almost all his flesh. In short, if he didn't look a bit pale from lying in the shade for so long, he could easily be mistaken for a healthy man. I suspect that their strict diet of roots may contribute to most of these ailments, except for rheumatism and sore eyes; for the latter, the weakness associated with a plant-based diet may also play a role. Despite being crowded as mentioned, the Chopunnish are much cleaner in their appearance and living conditions than any group we've encountered since we left the Ottoes on the Platte River. The Twisted Hair brought us six of our horses.
[Clark, May 11, 1806]
Sunday 11th May 1806 Some little rain last night. we were Crouded in the Lodge with Indians who continued all night and this morning Great numbers were around us. The One Eyed Chief Yoom-park-kar-tim arived and we gave him a medal of the Small Size and Spoke to the Indians through a Snake boy Shabono and his wife. we informed them who we were, where we Came from & our intentions towards them, which pleased them very much. a young man Son to the great Chief who was killed not long Sence by the Indians from the N. E. brought an elegant mare and Coalt and Gave us. and Said he had opend. his ears to what we had Said and his heart was glad and requested us to take this mare and Coalt as a token of his deturmination to pursue our Councels &c. The twisted hair brough Six of our horses all in fine order. Great numbers of Indians apply to us for medical aide which we gave them Cherfully So far as our Skill and Store of Medicine would enable us. Schrofla, ulsers, rhumitism, Sore eyes, and the loss of the use of their Limbs are the most common cases among them. the latter Case is not very common but We have Seen 3 instances of it among the Chopunnish. a very extroadinery complnt. about 3 P.M. Geo. drewyer arived with 2 deer which he had killed. he informed us that the Snow Still Continued to cover the plains. We are now pretty well informed that Tunnachemootoolt, Hohastillpilp, Neshneparkkeeook, and Yoomparkkartim were the principal Chiefs of the Chopunnish Nation and ranked in the order here mentioned; as all those chiefs were present in our lodge we thought it a favourable time to repeet what had been said and to enter more minutely into the views of our government with respect to the inhabitents of this Western part of the Continent, their intention of establishing tradeing houses for their relief, their wish to restore peace and harmony among the nativs, the Strength welth and powers of our Nation &c. to this end we drew a map of the Country with a coal on a mat in their way, and by the assistance of the Snake boy and our intrepeters were enabled to make ourselves under stood by them altho it had to pass through French, Minnetare, Shoshone and Chopunnish languages. the interpretation being tegious it occupied the greater part of the day, before we had communicated to them what we wished. they appeared highly pleased. after this Council was over we amused ourselves with Shewing them the power of Magnetism, the Spye glass, compass, watch, air gun and Sundery other articles equally novel and incomprehensible to them. they informed us that after we left the Menetares last Spring that 3 of their people had visited that nation, and that they had informed them of us, and had told them that we had Such things in our possession but that they Could not place Confidence in the information untill they had now witnessed it themselves
Sunday, May 11, 1806 There was some rain last night. We were packed in the lodge with Indians who stayed throughout the night and this morning there were large numbers around us. The One-Eyed Chief Yoom-park-kar-tim arrived, and we gave him a small medal and spoke to the Indians through a Snake boy, Shabono, and his wife. We explained who we were, where we came from, and our intentions toward them, which made them very happy. A young man, the son of the great Chief who was recently killed by Indians from the Northeast, brought us a beautiful mare and colt as a gift. He said he was listening to what we had said and was glad, requesting us to accept this mare and colt as a sign of his determination to follow our guidance, etc. The twisted hair brought six of our horses, all in good condition. Many Indians asked us for medical help, which we gladly provided, as far as our skills and supplies allowed. The most common issues were schrofla, ulcers, rheumatism, sore eyes, and loss of limb use. The last case is rare, but we have seen three instances among the Chopunnish, which is quite extraordinary. Around 3 PM, Geo. Drewyer arrived with two deer he had killed. He told us that snow was still covering the plains. We are now fairly well informed that Tunnachemootoolt, Hohastillpilp, Neshneparkkeeook, and Yoomparkkartim were the main chiefs of the Chopunnish Nation and ranked in the order mentioned. Since all those chiefs were present in our lodge, we thought it was a good time to reiterate what had been discussed and to explain in more detail the views of our government regarding the inhabitants of this western part of the continent, their plans to establish trading posts for their benefit, their desire to restore peace and harmony among the natives, and the strength, wealth, and power of our nation, etc. To illustrate this, we drew a map of the country with coal on a mat, and with the help of the Snake boy and our interpreters, we managed to communicate with them, even though it had to pass through French, Minnetare, Shoshone, and Chopunnish languages. The interpretation was lengthy and took most of the day before we communicated what we wanted. They seemed very pleased. After the council ended, we entertained ourselves by showing them the power of magnetism, the spyglass, compass, watch, air gun, and various other articles that were equally new and incomprehensible to them. They informed us that after we left the Menetares last spring, three of their people visited that nation and told them about us, mentioning that we had such things in our possession, but they couldn’t trust the information until they experienced it themselves.
In the evening a man was brought in a robe by four Indians and laid down near me. they informed me that this man was a Chief of Considerable note who has been in the Situation I see him for 5 years. this man is incapable of moveing a single limb but lies like a corps in whatever position he is placed, yet he eats hartily, dejests his food perfectly, enjoys his under standing, his pulse are good, and has retained his flesh almost perfectly; in Short were it not that he appears a little pale from having been So long in the Shade, he might well be taken for a man in good health. I Suspect that their Confinement to a deet of roots may give rise to all the disordes of the Nativs of this quarter except the Rhumitism & Sore eyes, and to the latter of those, the State of debility incident to a vegitable diet may measureably contribute.-. The Chopunnish not withstanding they live in the Crouded manner before mentioned are much more clenly in their persons and habitations than any nation we have Seen Sence we left the Illinois. These nativs take their fish in the following manner to wit. a Stand Small Stage or warf consisting of Sticks and projecting about 10 feet into the river and about 3 feet above the water on the extremity of this the fisherman stands with his guilt or a Skooping Net which differ but little in their form those Commonly used in our Country it is formed thus with those nets they take the Suckers and also the Salmon trout and I am told the Salmon also.
In the evening, a man was brought in a robe by four Native Americans and laid down near me. They informed me that this man was a chief of considerable importance who had been in the condition I see him in for five years. This man is unable to move any of his limbs and lies like a corpse in whatever position he is placed; yet he eats heartily, digests his food perfectly, enjoys his mental faculties, has a good pulse, and has retained his flesh almost perfectly. In short, were it not for his slightly pale appearance from being in the shade for so long, he could easily be mistaken for a man in good health. I suspect that their diet of roots may lead to most of the ailments faced by the natives in this area, except for rheumatism and sore eyes, and for the latter, the state of weakness linked to a vegetarian diet may contribute somewhat. The Chopunnish, despite living as previously mentioned, are much cleaner in their appearance and homes than any nation we have seen since we left Illinois. These natives catch their fish in the following way: they have a small platform or dock made of sticks that extends about 10 feet into the river and is about 3 feet above the water. At the end of this, the fisherman stands with his gill net or a scooping net, which are similar in design to those commonly used in our country. With these nets, they catch suckers, salmon trout, and I am told also salmon.
[Lewis, May 12, 1806]
Monday May 12th 1806. This morning a great number of indians collected about us as usual. we took an early breakfast and Capt. C. began to administer eyewater to a croud of at least 50 applicants. The Indians held a council among themselves this morning with rispect to the subjects on which we had spoken to them yesterday. the result as we learnt was favourable. they placed confidence in the information they had received and resolved to pusue our advise. after this council was over the principal Cheif or the broken Arm, took the flour of the roots of cows and thickened the scope in the kettles and baskets of all his people, this being ended he made a harangue the purport of which was making known the deliberations of their council and impressing the necessity of unanimity among them and a strict attention to the resolutions which had been agreed on in councill; he concluded by inviting all such men as had resolved to abide by the decrees of the council to come and eat and requested such as would not be so bound to shew themselves by not partaking of the feast. I was told by one of our men who was present, that there was not a dissenting voice on this great national question, but all swallowed their objections if any they had, very cheerfully with their mush. during the time of this loud and animated harangue of the Cheif the women cryed wrung their hands, toar their hair and appeared to be in the utmost distress. after this cerimony was over the Cheifs and considerate men came in a body to where we were seated at a little distance from our tent, and two young men at the instance of the nation, presented us each with a fine horse. we caused the cheifs to be seated and gave them each a flag a pound of powder and fifty balls. we also gave powder and ball to the two young men who had presented the horses. Neeshneeparkkeeook gave Drewyer a good horse. The band of Ten-nach-e-moo-toolt have six guns which they acquired from the Minnetaries and appear anxious to obtain arms and amunition. after they had received those presents the Cheifs requested we would retire to the tent whither they accompanied us, they now informed us that they wished to give an answer to what we had said to them the preceeding day, but also informed us that there were many of their people waiting in great pain at that moment for the aid of our medecine. it was agreed between Capt. C. and myself that he should attend the sick as he was their favorite phisician while I would here and answer the Cheifs. The father of Hohastillpilp was the orrator on this occasion. he observed that they had listened with attention to our advise and that the whole nation were resolved to follow it, that they had only one heart and one tongue on this subject. he said they were fully sensible of the advantages of peace and that the ardent desire which they had to cultivate peace with their neighbours had induced his nation early last summer to send a pipe by 3 of their brave men to the Shoshonees on the S. side of Lewis's river in the Plains of Columbia, that these people had murdered these men, which had given rise to the war expedition against that nation last fall; that their warriors had fallen in with the shoshonees at that time and had killed 42 of them with the loss of 3 only on their part; that this had satisfyed the blood of their disceased friends and that they would never again make war against the Shoshonees, but were willing to receive them as friends. that they valued the lives of their young men too much to wish them to be engaged in war. That as we had not yet seen the black foot Indians and the Minnetares of Fort de Prarie they did not think it safe to venture over to the Plains of the Missouri, where they would fondly go provided those nations would not kill them. that when we had established our forts on the Missouri as we had promised, they would come over and trade for arms Amunition &c. and live about us. that it would give them much pleasure to be at peace with these nations altho they had shed much of their blood. he said that the whitemen might be assured of their warmest attatchment and that they would alwas give them every assistance in their power; that they were poor but their hearts were good. he said that some of their young men would go over with us to the Missouri and bring them the news as we wished, and that if we could make a peace between themselves and their enimies on the other side of the mountain their nation would go over to the Missouri in the latter end of the summer. on the subject of one of their cheifs accompanying us to the Land of the whitemen they could not yet determine, but that they would let us know before we left them. that the snow was yet so deep in the mountain if we attempted to pass we would certainly perish, and advised us to remain untill after the next full moon when the said the snow would disappear and we could find grass for our horses.—when the oald man had concluded I again spoke to them at some length with which they appeared highly gratifyed. after smoking the pipe which was about 2 P.M. they gave us another fat horse to kill which was thankfully received by the party. Capt C. now joined us having just made an end of his medical distrabution. we gave a phiol of eyewater to the Broken Arm, and requested that he would wash the eyes of such as might apply for that purpose, and that when it was exhausted we would replenish the phiol. he was much pleased with this present. we now gave the Twisted hair one gun and a hundred balls and 2 lbs. of powder in part for his attention to our horses and promised the other gun and a similar quantity of powder and lead when we received the ballance of our horses. this gun we had purchased of the indians below for 2 Elkskins. this evening three other of our original stock of horses were produced, they were in fine order as well as those received yesterday. we have now six horses out only, as our old guide Toby and his son each took a horse of ours when they returned last fall. these horses are said to be on the opposite side of the river at no great distance from this place. we gave the young men who had delivered us the two horses this morning some ribbon, blue wampum and vermillion, one of them gave me a hansome pare of legings and the Broken Arm gave Capt. C. his shirt, in return for which we gave him a linin shirt.—we informed the indians of our wish to pass the river and form a camp at some proper place to fish, hunt, and graize our horses untill the snows of the mountains would permit us to pass. they recommended a position a few miles distant from hence on the opposite side of the river, but informed us that there was no canoe at this place by means of which we could pass our baggage over the river, but promised to send a man early in the morning for one which they said would meet us at the river by noon the next day. The indians formed themselves this evening into two large parties and began to gamble for their beads and other ornaments. the game at which they played was that of hiding a stick in their hands which they frequently changed acompanying their opperations with a song. this game seems common to all the nations in this country, and dose not differ from that before discribed of the Shoshonees on the S. E. branch of Lewis's river. we are anxious to procure some guides to accompany us on the different routs we mean to take from Travellers rest; for this purpose we have turned our attention to the Twisted hair who has several sons grown who are well acquainted as well as himself with the various roads in those mountains. we invited the old fellow to remove his family and live near us while we remained; he appeared gratifyed with this expression of our confidence and promissed to do so.—shot at a mark with the indians, struck the mark with 2 balls. distn. 220 yds.
Monday, May 12th, 1806. This morning, a large number of Indians gathered around us as usual. We had an early breakfast, and Capt. C. began to administer eyewash to a crowd of at least 50 people. The Indians held a council among themselves this morning regarding the topics we discussed with them yesterday. The outcome, as we learned, was positive. They trusted the information they received and decided to follow our advice. After the council, the main chief, known as the Broken Arm, took flour from the roots of cows and thickened the soup in the kettles and baskets of all his people. Once this was done, he delivered a speech announcing the decisions of their council and stressing the importance of unity and adherence to the resolutions agreed upon. He concluded by inviting all men who decided to support the council's decisions to come and eat, while encouraging those who would not to show themselves by not partaking in the feast. One of our men present told me there wasn't a single dissenting voice on this important matter; everyone accepted their objections, if they had any, gladly with their mush. During the chief's loud and animated speech, the women cried, wrung their hands, tore their hair, and appeared to be in great distress. After this ceremony, the chiefs and respected men came together to where we were sitting a little distance from our tent, and two young men, representing the nation, presented each of us with a fine horse. We had the chiefs sit down and gave each of them a flag, a pound of powder, and fifty balls. We also gave powder and balls to the two young men who had given us the horses. Neeshneeparkkeeook gave Drewyer a good horse. The group of Ten-nach-e-moo-toolt have six guns they acquired from the Minnetaries and seem eager to obtain arms and ammunition. After receiving the gifts, the chiefs requested that we retire to the tent, where they accompanied us. They then informed us that they wanted to respond to what we said the previous day, but also noted that many of their people were currently in great pain and awaiting our medical assistance. It was agreed between Capt. C. and me that he would attend to the sick, as he was their preferred physician, while I would stay here and respond to the chiefs. The father of Hohastillpilp was the speaker on this occasion. He noted that they had listened carefully to our advice and that the entire nation was determined to follow it. He said they shared one heart and one voice on this matter. He stated that they fully recognized the benefits of peace and that their strong desire to maintain peace with their neighbors led them to send a peace pipe to the Shoshones on the south side of Lewis's River in the Plains of Columbia early last summer. However, these people murdered the three brave men they sent, which prompted last fall's war expedition against that nation. Their warriors had encountered the Shoshones at that time and killed 42 of them with only 3 losses on their side. This satisfied the blood debt for their deceased friends, and they would never again make war against the Shoshones but were willing to accept them as friends. They valued the lives of their young men too much to engage in war. Regarding our not having yet encountered the Blackfoot Indians and the Minnetaires of Fort de Prairie, they believed it was unsafe to venture over to the Missouri Plains, where they would eagerly go if those nations wouldn't kill them. They stated that once we establish our forts on the Missouri as promised, they would come over to trade for arms, ammunition, etc., and live near us. It would greatly please them to be at peace with these nations, even though much of their blood had been shed. He assured the white men of their deep loyalty and that they would always offer every support within their capabilities; though they were poor, their hearts were good. He mentioned that some of their young men would accompany us to the Missouri and bring back news as we desired, and that if we could broker peace between them and their enemies on the other side of the mountain, their nation would come to the Missouri by late summer. Regarding one of their chiefs joining us to the land of the white men, they couldn't decide yet but would inform us before we left. He mentioned that the snow was still too deep in the mountains, and if we attempted to cross it now, we would surely perish, advising us to wait until after the next full moon when the snow would disappear and we could find grass for our horses. When the elder man finished, I spoke to them at length, which they seemed to appreciate greatly. After smoking the peace pipe around 2 PM, they offered us another fat horse to kill, which the group graciously accepted. Capt. C. joined us after finishing his medical distribution. We gave a vial of eyewash to the Broken Arm and requested that he wash the eyes of anyone who asked for it, promising to refill the vial when it was empty. He was very pleased with this gift. We then gave Twisted Hair one gun, a hundred balls, and two pounds of powder as part of our appreciation for his care of our horses, and promised another gun and a similar amount of powder and lead once we received the rest of our horses. This gun we had purchased from the Indians below for two elk skins. That evening, three more of our original horses were brought to us; they were in good condition, as were the ones received yesterday. We now had six horses remaining, as our old guide Toby and his son each took a horse of ours when they returned last fall. These horses were said to be across the river not far from here. We gave the young men who delivered the two horses this morning some ribbon, blue wampum, and vermilion; one of them gave me a nice pair of leggings and the Broken Arm gave Capt. C. his shirt, to which we responded by giving him a linen shirt. We informed the Indians of our wish to cross the river and set up a camp at a suitable location to fish, hunt, and graze our horses until the mountain snow allowed us to proceed. They recommended a spot a few miles away on the opposite side of the river but informed us that there was no canoe available here to transport our supplies, but promised to send someone early tomorrow morning for one that would meet us at the river by noon the following day. The Indians gathered this evening into two large groups and started gambling for their beads and other items. The game they played involved hiding a stick in their hands, which they frequently switched while singing. This game seems common among all nations in this region and is not much different from the one previously described with the Shoshones on the southeast branch of Lewis's River. We are eager to find some guides to accompany us on the different routes we plan to take from Traveler's Rest; for this purpose, we are focusing on Twisted Hair, who has several grown sons familiar with the various roads in those mountains. We invited the old man to bring his family and stay near us while we are here, and he seemed pleased with this display of our trust and promised to do so. I shot at a target with the Indians, hitting the mark with 2 balls from a distance of 220 yards.
[Clark, May 12, 1806]
Monday 12th May 1806 a fine Morning great number of Indians flock about us as usial. after brackfast I began to administer eye water and in a fiew minits had near 40 applicants with Sore eyes, and maney others with other Complaints most Common Rhumatic disorders & weaknesses in the back and loins perticularly the womin. the Indians had a grand Council this morning after which we were presented each with a horse by two young men at the instance of the nation. we caused the chiefs to be Seated and gave then each a flag a pint of Powder and 50 balls to the two young men who had presented the horses we also gave powder and ball. The broken arm or Tun na the mootoolt pulled off his leather Shirt and gave me. I in return gave him a Shirt. we retired into the Lodge and the natives Spoke to the following purpote, i e they had listened to our advice and that the whole nation were deturmined to follow it, that they had only one heart and one tongue on this Subject. explained the Cause of the War with the Shoshones. they wished to be at peace with all nations & Some of their Men would accompany us to the Missouri &c. &c. as a great number of men women & Children were wateing and requesting medical assistance maney of them with the most Simple Complaints which Could be easily releived, independent of maney with disorders intirely out of the power of Medison all requesting Some thing, we agreed that I Should administer and Capt L—to here and answer the Indians. I was closely employed until 12 P.M. administering eye water to about 40 grown persons. Some Simple Cooling Medicenes to the disabled Chief, to Several women with rhumatic effections & a man who had a Swelled hip &c. &c-. in the evening three of our horses were brought all in fine order. we have now only Six remaining out. we gave to each a Chief a pint of Powder and 50 Balls a Small flag and to the two young men who delivered us the horses we gave also powder & Ball and Some blue wompom & ribin. all appeared much pleased-. Those people are much affraid of the black foot indians, and the Big bellies of Fort deprarie establishment. those indians kill great numbers of this nation whenever they pass over to hunt on the Missouri. one of our men bought a horse for a fiew Small articles of an Indian. The Indians brought up a fat horse and requested us to kill and eate it as they had nothing else to offer us to eate. The Cut nose made a present of a horse to Drewyer at the Same time the two horses were offered to Capt. Lewis & my self. The horses of those people are large well formed and active. Generally in fine order. Sore backs Caused by rideing them either with out Saddles, or with pads which does not prevent the wate of the rider pressing imedeately on the back bone, and weathers of the horse. the Indians formed two partis and plaied for their heeds. we gave the twisted hair a gun, powder & 100 ball in part for takeing care of our horses &c.
Monday, May 12, 1806, was a beautiful morning with a large number of Indians gathering around us as usual. After breakfast, I started giving eye drops, and in just a few minutes, I had nearly 40 people lined up with sore eyes, along with many others experiencing various complaints, mostly rheumatic issues and back pain, particularly among the women. The Indians held a grand council this morning, and afterward, two young men presented each of us with a horse at the request of the nation. We had the chiefs seated and gave each of them a flag, a pint of gunpowder, and 50 rounds to the two young men who brought us the horses; we also provided them with powder and balls. The broken arm, or Tun na the mootoolt, took off his leather shirt and gave it to me. In exchange, I gave him a shirt. We then went into the lodge where the natives spoke to the following purpose: they had listened to our advice and the entire nation was determined to follow it, stating that they had only one heart and one voice on this matter. They explained the cause of the war with the Shoshones and expressed a desire for peace with all nations, mentioning that some of their men would accompany us to Missouri and so on, as a large number of men, women, and children were waiting and asking for medical help, many with simple complaints that could be easily relieved, in addition to several others with issues beyond the power of medicine. All were requesting something, so we agreed that I would provide treatment while Capt L— would speak to the Indians. I was busy until noon, administering eye drops to around 40 adults, some simple cooling medications to the disabled chief, several women with rheumatic effects, and a man with a swollen hip, and so on. In the evening, three of our horses were brought to us, all in good condition. We now have only six left. We gave each chief a pint of powder and 50 balls, a small flag, and to the two young men who brought us the horses, we also gave powder and balls along with some blue wampum and ribbon. Everyone seemed very pleased. These people are quite afraid of the Blackfoot Indians and the Big Bellies of the Fort Deprairie establishment. Those Indians kill many from this nation whenever they cross over to hunt in Missouri. One of our men traded a few small items for a horse from an Indian. The Indians brought up a fat horse and asked us to kill and eat it since they had nothing else to offer us. The Cut Nose presented a horse to Drewyer at the same time the two horses were offered to Capt. Lewis and me. The horses from these people are large, well-shaped, and agile, generally in excellent condition. Sore backs are caused by riding them without saddles or with pads, which fails to prevent the weight of the rider from pressing directly on the spine and the horse's back. The Indians formed two parties and played for their heads. We gave the twisted hair a gun, powder, and 100 balls in part for taking care of our horses, etc.
and wish him to Camp near us untill we Crossed the Mountains which he agreeed to do, and was much pleased we have turned our attentions towards the twisted hair who has Several Sons grown who are well acquainted as well as himself with the various roads through the rocky Mountains and will answer very well as guides to us through those Mountains-In the Council to day the father of Hohastillpelp Said the Chopunnish were fully Convinced of the advantages of peace and ardently wished to cultivate peace with their neighbours. early last Summer 3 of their brave men were Sent with a pipe to the Shoshones on the S E. fork of Lewis's river in the Plains of Columbia, their pipe was disreguarded and their 3 men murdered, which had given rise to the War expedition against that nation last fall; that their warriers had fallen in with and killed 42 of the Shoshones with the loss of 3 men only on their part; that this had Satisfied the blood of the deceased friends and they would never again make war against the Shoshones, but were willing to receve them as friends-. That as we had not Seen the Indians towards Fort de prere they did not think it Safe to venture over to the Plains of the Missouri, where they would fondly go provided those nations would not kill them. I gave a vial of eye water to the Broken arm for to wash the eyes of all who applied to him and told him when it was out we would replenish it again
and we want him to camp near us until we cross the mountains, which he agreed to do and was very pleased about. We have shifted our focus to the Twisted Hair, who has several grown sons that are well familiar with the different paths through the Rocky Mountains, and they will serve as excellent guides for us through those mountains. In today’s council, the father of Hohastillpelp said that the Chopunnish were fully convinced of the benefits of peace and eagerly wanted to establish friendly relations with their neighbors. Early last summer, three of their brave men were sent with a peace pipe to the Shoshones at the southeast fork of Lewis's River in the Plains of Columbia; however, their peace offering was ignored, and the three men were murdered. This led to the war expedition against that nation last fall. Their warriors encountered and killed 42 Shoshones while losing only three men themselves; this satisfied the avenging of their deceased friends and they vowed to never make war against the Shoshones again, but were willing to accept them as friends. They also mentioned that since we hadn't seen the Indians near Fort de Prere, they didn’t think it was safe to venture over to the Plains of the Missouri, where they would gladly go if those nations wouldn’t harm them. I gave a vial of eye wash to Broken Arm for him to use on anyone who needed it, and told him that when it ran out, we would refill it again.
[Lewis, May 13, 1806]
Tuesday May 13th 1806. This morning Capt. C. as usual was busily engaged with his patients untill eleven OCk. at 1 P.M. we collected our horses and set out for the river escorted by a number of the natives on horseback. we followed the creek downwards about two miles, passing a stout branch at 1 m. which flowed in on the wright. our course S. E. we now entered an extensive open bottom of the Kooskooske R. through which we passed nearly N. about 11/2 miles and halted on the bank of the river at the place appointed to meet the canoe. the man had set out early this morning for the purpose but had not yet arrived with the canoe we therefore unloaded our horses and turned them out to graize. as the canoe did not arrive untill after sunset we remained here all night; a number of the natives continued with us. in the evening we tryed the speed of several of our horses. these horses are active strong and well formed. these people have immence numbers of them 50, 60 or a hundred hed is not unusual for an individual to possess. The Chopunnish are in general stout well formed active men. they have high noses and many of them on the acqueline order with cheerfull and agreeable countenances; their complexions are not remarkable. in common with other savage nations of America they extract their beards but the men do not uniformly extract the hair below, this is more particularly confined to the females. I observed several men among them whom I am convinced if they had shaved their beards instead of extracting it would have been as well supplyed in this particular as any of my countrymen. they appear to be cheerfull but not gay; they are fond of gambling and of their amusements which consist principally in shooting their arrows at a bowling target made of willow bark, and in riding and exercising themselves on horseback, racing &c. they are expert marksmen and good riders. they do not appear to be so much devoted to baubles as most of the nations we have met with, but seem anxious always to obtain articles of utility, such as knives, axes, tommahawks, kettles blankets and mockerson alls. blue beads however may form an exception to this remark; this article among all the nations of this country may be justly compared to goald or silver among civilized nations. They are generally well cloathed in their stile. their dress consists of a long shirt which reaches to the middle of thye, long legings which reach as high as the waist, mockersons, and robes. these are formed of various skins and are in all rispects like those particularly discribed of the Shoshones. their women also dress like the Shoshones. their ornaments consist of beads shells and peices of brass variously attatched to their dress, to their ears arrond their necks wrists arms &c. a bando of some kind usually surrounds the head, this is most frequently the skin of some fir animal as the fox otter &c. tho they have them also of dressed skin without the hair. the ornament of the nose is a single shell of the wampum. the pirl and beads are suspended from the ears. beads are woarn arround their wrists necks and over their sholders crosswise in the form of a double sash. the hair of the men is cewed in two rolls which hang on each side in front of the body as before discribed of other inhabitants of the Columbia. collars of bears claws are also common; but the article of dress on which they appear to bstow most pains and ornaments is a kind of collar or brestplate; this is most commonly a strip of otterskin of about six inches wide taken out of the center of the skin it's whole length including the head. this is dressed with the hair on; a hole is cut lengthwise through the skin near the head of the animal sufficiently large to admit the head of the person to pass. thus it is placed about the neck and hangs in front of the body the tail frequently reaching below their knees; on this skin in front is attatched peices of pirl, beads, wampum peices of red cloth and in short whatever they conceive most valuable or ornamental. I observed a tippit woarn by Hohastillpilp, which was formed of human scalps and ornamented with the thumbs and fingers of several men which he had slain in battle. their women brade their hair in two tresses which hang in the same position of those of the men. they also wear a cap or cup on the head formed of beargrass and cedar bark. the men also frequently attatch some small ornament to a small plat of hair on the center of the crown of their heads.
Tuesday, May 13, 1806. This morning, Captain C. was, as usual, busy with his patients until 11 o'clock. At 1 PM, we gathered our horses and set out for the river, accompanied by several locals on horseback. We followed the creek downstream for about two miles, passing a sturdy branch at 1 mile that flowed in on the right. Our course was southeast. We then entered a large open area by the Kooskooske River, traveling nearly north for about a mile and a half and stopping on the riverbank at the designated spot to meet the canoe. The person had left early this morning for that purpose but had not arrived yet, so we unloaded our horses and let them graze. Since the canoe didn’t arrive until after sunset, we stayed here overnight, accompanied by several locals. In the evening, we tested the speed of some of our horses. These horses are active, strong, and well-built. The locals have enormous numbers of them; it's not unusual for an individual to own 50, 60, or even a hundred. The Chopunnish people are generally stout, well-formed, and active. They have prominent noses, many having an aquiline shape, and cheerful and agreeable faces; their complexions are unremarkable. Like other Indigenous peoples of America, they remove their facial hair, but the men don’t consistently remove hair below the chin, which is more common among the women. I noticed several men who, if they had shaved their beards instead of removing them, would have been as well supplied in that regard as any of my countrymen. They seem cheerful but not overly joyful; they enjoy gambling and their pastimes, mainly shooting arrows at a bowling target made of willow bark and riding and exercising on horseback, racing, etc. They are skilled marksmen and good riders. They don’t seem to be as interested in trinkets as many other groups we’ve encountered, but they always look to acquire useful items such as knives, axes, tomahawks, kettles, blankets, and moccasins. However, blue beads might be an exception to this observation; among all the nations here, they can be compared to gold or silver in civilized societies. They generally dress well in their style. Their clothing includes a long shirt that reaches mid-thigh, long leggings that extend to the waist, moccasins, and robes made from various animal skins, resembling those particularly described among the Shoshones. The women dress similarly to the Shoshones. Their adornments consist of beads, shells, and pieces of brass attached in various ways to their clothing, as well as earrings, necklaces, and bracelets. A band of some kind usually surrounds their heads, often made from the skin of some fur-bearing animal like a fox or otter, though they also have them made of dressed skin without fur. The typical nose ornament is a single shell from wampum. Pearls and beads hang from their ears, and beads are worn around their wrists, necks, and crosswise over their shoulders like a double sash. The men's hair is styled in two rolls that hang on each side in front of their bodies, as previously described for other inhabitants of the Columbia. Bear claw collars are also common. The item of clothing they seem to put the most effort and ornamentation into is a type of collar or breastplate; this is usually a strip of otter skin about six inches wide taken from the center of the skin, including the head. It is dressed with the hair still on. A hole is cut lengthwise through the skin near the head of the animal, large enough to fit a person's head through. It’s worn around the neck and hangs in front of the body, with the tail often reaching below their knees. Attached to this skin at the front are pieces of pearl, beads, wampum, red cloth, and whatever they think is most valuable or beautiful. I observed a tippet worn by Hohastillpilp, made from human scalps and decorated with the thumbs and fingers of several men he had killed in battle. Their women braid their hair into two sections that hang like the men’s. They also wear a cap or cup made of bear grass and cedar bark on their heads. The men often attach a small ornament to a small tuft of hair at the center of the crown of their heads.
[Clark, May 13, 1806]
Tuesday 13th May 1806. a fine morning I administered to the Sick and gave directions. we collected all our horses and Set out at 1 P.M. and proceeded down the Creek to the Flat head River a Short distance below the enterance of the Creek at the distance of 3 miles from the Village. at this place we expected to have met the Canoe which was promised to be furnished us, and for which an indian Set out very early this morning. we halted at the Flat Head River unloaded our horses and turnd. them out to feed. Several Indians accompanied us to the river and Continued untill evening. The man who Set out early this morning to the forks of this river for a Canoe and was to meet us at this place. as the Canoe did not arive untill after Sun set we remained all night; in the evening we tried the Speed of Several of our horses. these horses are strong active and well formed. Those people have emence numbers of them 50 or 60 or a Hundred head is not unusial for an individual to possess.
Tuesday, May 13, 1806. It was a beautiful morning. I took care of the sick and gave some instructions. We gathered all our horses and set off at 1 PM, heading down the creek to the Flathead River, a short distance below where the creek enters, about 3 miles from the village. We expected to meet the canoe that was promised to us, which an Indian had left to retrieve very early that morning. We stopped at the Flathead River, unloaded our horses, and let them loose to graze. Several Indians joined us at the river and stayed until evening. The man who left early that morning for a canoe at the forks of this river was supposed to meet us here. Since the canoe didn’t arrive until after sunset, we stayed overnight. In the evening, we tested the speed of several of our horses. These horses are strong, agile, and well-built. The local people have a vast number of them; it's not unusual for an individual to own 50, 60, or even 100 head.
The Chopunnish are in general Stout well formd active men. they have high noses and maney of them on the acqueline order with chearfull and agreeable countinances; their complexions are not remarkable. in common with other Indian Nations of America they extract their beard, but the men do not uniformly extract the hair below, this is more particularly confined to the females. they appear to be cheerfull but not gay; they are fond of gambling and of their amusements which consists principally in shooting their arrows at a targit made of Willow bark, and in rideing and exersiseing themselves on horsback, raceing &c. they are expirt marks men & good riders. they do not appear to be So much devoted to baubles as most of the nations we have met with, but Seen anxious always to riceve articles of utility, Such as knives, axes, Kittles, blankets & Mockerson awls. blue beeds however may form an exception to this remark; This article among all the nations of this Country may be justly compared to gold and Silver among civilized nations. They are generally well clothed in their Stile. their dress Consists of a long shirt which reaches to the middle of leg, long legins which reach as high as the waist, mockersons & robe. those are formed of various skins and are in all respects like those of the Shoshone. Their orniments consists of beeds, Shells and peices of brass variously attached to their dress, to their ears arround theire necks wrists arms &c. a band of Some kind usially Serounds the head, this is most frequently the Skin of Some fer animal as the fox otter &c.; I observed a tippet worn by Hohastillpilp, which was formed of Humane Scalps and ornemented with the thumbs and fingers of Several men which he had Slain in battle. they also were a coller or breast plate of otter Skin orniminted with Shells beeds & quills. the women brade their hair in two tresses which hang in the same position of those of the men, which ar Cewed and hang over each sholder. &c
The Chopunnish are generally strong, well-built, and active individuals. They have high noses, many of which are of the aquiline type, with cheerful and pleasant faces; their skin tones are not particularly distinctive. Like other Native American tribes, they remove their facial hair, although the men don’t always remove hair below the neck, which is more common among the women. They seem cheerful but not overly so; they enjoy gambling and their pastimes mainly include shooting arrows at targets made of willow bark, horseback riding, and racing. They are skilled marksmen and good riders. They don't seem as interested in trinkets as many other tribes we’ve encountered, instead showing a preference for practical items like knives, axes, kettles, blankets, and awls. However, blue beads may be an exception; among all the tribes in this country, they can be fairly compared to gold and silver in civilized societies. They are usually well-dressed in their style, wearing long shirts that reach mid-calf, long leggings that extend to the waist, moccasins, and robes. These garments are made from various animal skins and resemble those of the Shoshone. Their ornaments consist of beads, shells, and pieces of brass attached to their clothing, as well as adorning their ears, necks, wrists, and arms. A band of some sort typically surrounds their heads, often made from the skin of a fur-bearing animal like a fox or otter. I noticed a tippet worn by Hohastillpilp, made from human scalps and decorated with the thumbs and fingers of several men he had killed in battle. They also wear a collar or breastplate made of otter skin, embellished with shells, beads, and quills. The women braid their hair into two long sections that hang in a similar way to the men's styles, with the braids sewn and draping over each shoulder.
[Lewis, May 14, 1806]
Wednesday May 14th 1806. The morning was fair, we arrose early and dispatched a few of our hunters to the opposite side of the river, and employed a part of the men in transporting our baggage to the opposite shore wile others were directed to collect the horses; at 10 A.M. we had taken our baggage over and collected our horses, we then took breakfast, after which we drove our horses into the river which they swam without accedent and all arrived safe on the opposite shore. the river is 150 yds. wide at this place and extreemly rapid. tho it may be safely navigated at this season, as the water covers all the rocks which lie in it's bed to a considerable debth. we followed our horses and again collected them, after which we removed our baggage to a position which we had previously selected for our permanent camp about half a mile below. this was a very eligible spot for defence it had been an ancient habitation of the indians; was sunk about 4 feet in the ground and raised arround it's outer edge about three 1/2 feet with a good wall of eath. the whole was a circle of about 30 feet in diameter. arround this we formed our tents of sticks and grass facing outwards and deposited our baggage within the sunken space under a shelter which we constructed for the purpose. our situation was within 40 paces of the river in an extentsive level bottom thinly timbered with the longleafed pine. here we are in the vicinity of the best hunting grounds from indian information, are convenient to the salmon which we expect daily and have an excellent pasture for our horses. the hills to the E and North of us are high broken and but partially timbered; the soil is rich and affords fine grass. in short as we are compelled to reside a while in this neighbourhood I feel perfectly satisfyed with our position.immediately after we had passed the river Tunnachemootoolt and Hosastillpilp arrived on the south side with a party of a douzen of their young men; they began to sing in token of friendship as is their custom, and we sent the canoe over for them. they left their horses and came over accompanyed by several of their party among whom were the 2 young men who had presented us with two horses in behalf of the nation; one of these was the son of Tunnachemootoolt and the other the son of the Cheif who was killed by the Minnetares of Fort de Prarie last year and the same who had given us the mare and Colt. we received them at our camp and smoked with them; after some hours Hohastillpilp with much cerimony presented me with a very eligant grey gelding which he had brought for that purpose. I gave him in return a handkercheif 200 balls and 4 lbs. of powder. with which he appeared perfectly satisfyed. Collins killed two bear this morning and was sent with two others in quest of the meat; with which they returned in the evening; the mail bear was large and fat the female was of moderate size and reather meagre. we had the fat bear fleaced in order to reserve the oil for the mountains. both these bear were of the speceis common to the upper part of the missouri. they may be called white black grzly brown or red bear for they are found of all those colours. perhaps it would not be unappropriate to designate them the variagated bear. we gave the indians who were about 15 in number half the female bear, with the sholder head and neck of the other. this was a great treat to those poor wretches who scarcely taist meat once a month. they immediately prepared a brisk fire of dry wood on which they threw a parsel of smooth stones from the river, when the fire had birnt down and heated the stones they placed them level and laid on a parsel of pine boughs, on these they laid the flesh of the bear in flitches, placing boughs between each course of meat and then covering it thickly with pine boughs; after this they poared on a small quantity of water and covered the whoe over with earth to the debth of four inches. in this situation they suffered it to remain about 3 hours when they took it out. I taisted of this meat and found it much more tender than that which we had roasted or boiled, but the strong flavor of the pine distroyed it for my pallate. Labuish returned late in the evening and informed us that he had killed a female bear and two large cubbs, he brought with him several large dark brown pheasants which he had also killed. Shannon also returned with a few pheasants and two squirrells. we have found our stone horses so troublesome that we indeavoured to exchange them with the Chopunnish for mears or gelings but they will not exchange altho we offer 2 for one; we came to a resolution to castrate them and began the operation this evening one of the indians present offered his services on this occasion. he cut them without tying the string of the stone as is usual, and assures us that they will do much better in that way; he takes care to scrape the string very clean and to seperate it from all the adhereing veigns before he cuts it. we shall have an opportunity of judging whether this is a method preferable to that commonly practiced as Drewyer has gelded two in the usual way. The indians after their feast took a pipe or two with us and retired to rest much pleased with their repast. these bear are tremendious animals to them; they esteem the act of killing a bear equally great with that of an enimy in the field of action.—I gave the claws of those which Collins killed to Hohastillpilp.
Wednesday, May 14, 1806. The morning was nice, we woke up early and sent a few of our hunters to the other side of the river. Some of the men helped move our bags to the opposite shore while others were tasked with gathering the horses. By 10 A.M., we had moved our bags and collected our horses, and then we had breakfast. After that, we led our horses into the river, which they swam across safely without any accidents. The river is 150 yards wide here and flows very quickly. Although it can be navigated safely at this time of year, since the water is deep enough to cover the rocks in the riverbed. We followed our horses and gathered them again, after which we moved our bags to a spot we had previously chosen for our permanent camp about half a mile downstream. This was a very strategic location for defense; it had been an ancient Indian settlement, sunk about 4 feet into the ground and raised around its outer edge about three and a half feet with a solid earthen wall. The entire area was a circle about 30 feet in diameter. Around this, we set up our tents made of sticks and grass facing outward and placed our luggage within the sunken area under a shelter we constructed for that purpose. Our location was within 40 paces of the river in a spacious, flat area sparsely covered with longleaf pine. Here, we are close to the best hunting grounds according to Indian reports, convenient to the salmon we expect to see soon, and there's excellent pasture for our horses. The hills to the east and north of us are high and rugged, with only some trees; the soil is rich, providing good grass. In short, since we have to stay in this area for a while, I feel completely satisfied with our position. As soon as we crossed the river, Tunnachemootoolt and Hosastillpilp arrived on the south side with a group of about a dozen young men; they started singing as a sign of friendship, as is their custom, and we sent a canoe for them. They left their horses and came across, accompanied by several members of their group, including the two young men who had gifted us two horses on behalf of their nation; one was the son of Tunnachemootoolt and the other was the son of the chief who was killed by the Minnetares at Fort de Prairie last year, the same man who had given us the mare and colt. We welcomed them at our camp and shared a smoke with them; after a few hours, Hohastillpilp ceremoniously presented me with a very elegant grey gelding he had brought for that purpose. In return, I gave him a handkerchief, 200 balls, and 4 lbs. of powder, which he seemed very pleased with. Collins killed two bears this morning and went with two others to get the meat; they returned in the evening. The male bear was large and fat, while the female was of moderate size and rather lean. We skinned the fat bear to save the oil for the mountains. Both bears were of the species common to the upper part of the Missouri. They can be called white, black, grizzly, brown, or red bear as they come in all those colors. Perhaps it wouldn’t be inappropriate to name them the variegated bear. We gave the Indians, who numbered about 15, half of the female bear, along with the shoulder, head, and neck of the male. This was a significant treat for these poor souls who hardly eat meat once a month. They immediately built a fire of dry wood and tossed in a bunch of smooth stones from the river. Once the fire had burned down and heated the stones, they laid them out evenly and put some pine boughs on top, on which they laid the bear meat in strips, placing boughs between each layer of meat and then covering it thickly with more pine boughs. After that, they poured a small amount of water and covered the whole thing with four inches of earth. In this state, they let it cook for about three hours before removing it. I tried some of this meat and found it much more tender than what we had roasted or boiled, but the strong flavor of the pine ruined it for my taste. Labuish came back late in the evening and told us he had killed a female bear and two large cubs. He also brought several large dark brown pheasants he had caught. Shannon returned with a few pheasants and two squirrels. We found our stone horses so troublesome that we tried to trade them with the Chopunnish for mares or geldings, but they refused to exchange even though we offered two for one; we decided to castrate them and started the operation this evening. One of the Indians present volunteered to help. He cut them without tying off the string, as is usual, and assured us they would do better this way; he made sure to clean the string very well and separate it from all the adhering veins before cutting. We’ll have the chance to see if this method is better than the usual practice, as Drewyer has gelded two using the standard method. After their feast, the Indians shared a pipe with us and went to rest, very pleased with their meal. These bears are incredible animals to them; they consider killing a bear to be as great an achievement as defeating an enemy in battle. I gave Hohastillpilp the claws from the bears Collins killed.
[Clark, May 14, 1806]
Wednesday 14th of May 1806 a fine day. we had all our horses Collected by 10 a.m. dureing the time we had all our baggage Crossed over the Flat head River which is rapid and about 150 yards wide. after the baggage was over to the North Side we Crossed our horss without much trouble and hobbled them in the bottom after which we moved a Short distance below to a convenient Situation and formed a Camp around a very conveniant Spot for defence where the Indiands had formerly a house under ground and hollow circler Spot of about 30 feet diamieter 4 feet below the Serfce and a Bank of 2 feet above this Situation we Concluded would be Seffiently convenient to hunt the wood lands for bear & Deer and for the Salmon fish which we were told would be here in a fiew days and also a good Situation for our horses. the hills to the E. & N. of us are high broken & but partially timbered; the soil rich and affords fine grass. in Short as we are Compelled to reside a while in this neighbourhood I feel perfectly Satisfied with our position. imediately after we had Crossed the river the Chief Called the broken Arm or Tin nach-e-moo toll another principal Chief Hoh-host'-ill-pitp arived on the opposite Side and began to Sing. we Sent the Canoe over and those Chiefs, the Son of the broken arm and the Sone of a Great Chief who was killed last year by the Big bellies of Sas kas she win river. those two young men were the two whome gave Capt Lewis and my self each a horse with great serimony in behalf of the nation a fiew days ago, and the latter a most elligant mare & colt the morning after we arived at the Village. Hohast ill pilt with much Serimoney presented Capt. Lewis with an elegant Gray horse which he had brought for that purpose. Capt Lewis gave him in return a Handkerchief two hundred balls and four pouds of powder with which he appeared perfictly Satisfyed, and appeared much pleased.
Wednesday, May 14, 1806, was a beautiful day. By 10 a.m., we gathered all our horses. During that time, we transported all our baggage across the Flathead River, which is fast-flowing and about 150 yards wide. Once the baggage was moved to the north side, we crossed our horses without much trouble and hobbled them in the bottom. Afterward, we moved a short distance downstream to a suitable location and set up camp around a very convenient spot for defense where the Indians had previously built an underground house, a hollow circular area about 30 feet in diameter and 4 feet below the surface, with a bank rising 2 feet above it. We concluded this spot would be sufficiently good for hunting the woodlands for bears and deer, and for the salmon which we were told would arrive here in a few days, as well as a good place for our horses. The hills to the east and north of us are high, broken, and only partially wooded; the soil is rich and provides excellent grass. In short, since we have to stay in this area for a while, I feel completely satisfied with our position. Immediately after we crossed the river, the chief known as Broken Arm, or Tin nach-e-moo, called, and another principal chief, Hoh-host'-ill-pitp, arrived on the opposite side and began to sing. We sent the canoe over for the chiefs, the son of Broken Arm and the son of a great chief who was killed last year by the Big Bellies of the Saskashwin River. These two young men were the ones who ceremoniously gave Captain Lewis and me each a horse a few days ago, and the latter a very elegant mare and colt the morning after we arrived at the village. Hoh-host'-ill-pitp, with much ceremony, presented Captain Lewis with a splendid gray horse that he brought for that purpose. Captain Lewis, in return, gave him a handkerchief, two hundred balls, and four pounds of powder, which seemed to satisfy him completely and made him very pleased.
Soon after I had Crossed the river and during the time Cap Lewis was on the opposit Side John Collins whome we had Sent out verry early this morning with Labiech and Shannon on the North Side of the river to hunt, Came in and informed me, that he had killed two Bear at about 5 miles distant on the up lands. one of which was in good order. I imediately depatched Jo. Fields & P. Wiser with him for the flesh. we made Several attempts to exchange our Stalions for Geldings or mars without success we even offered two for one. those horses are troublesom and Cut each other very much and as we Can't exchange them we think it best to Castrate them and began the opperation this evening one of the Indians present offered his Services on this occasion. he Cut them without tying the String of the Stone as is usial. he Craped it very Clean & Seperate it before he Cut it. about Meredian Shannon Came in with two Grows & 2 Squireles Common to this Country. his mockersons worn out obliged to come in early.
Soon after I crossed the river and while Cap Lewis was on the other side, John Collins, whom we had sent out very early this morning with Labiech and Shannon on the north side of the river to hunt, came in and informed me that he had killed two bears about five miles away in the uplands. One of them was in good condition. I immediately sent Jo. Fields and P. Wiser with him to retrieve the meat. We made several attempts to trade our stallions for geldings or mares without success; we even offered two for one. Those horses are problematic and fight with each other a lot, and since we can't exchange them, we think it's best to castrate them. We started the procedure this evening, and one of the Indians present offered his help. He performed the procedure without tying off the cord, as is usual. He cleaned it up very well and separated it before cutting it. Around noon, Shannon came in with two grouse and two squirrels native to this area. His moccasins wore out, which forced him to return early.
Collins returned in the evening with the two bears which he had killed in the morning one of them an old hee was in fine order, the other a female with Cubs was Meagure. we gave the Indians about us 15 in number two Sholders and a ham of the bear to eate which they cooked in the following manner. to wit on a brisk fire of dryed wood they threw a parcel of Small Stones from the river, when the fire had burnt down and heated the Stone, they placed them level and laid on a parsel of pine boughs, on those they laid the flesh of the bear in flitches, placeing boughs between each course of meat and then Covering it thickly with pine boughs; after this they poared on a Small quantity of water, and Covered the whole over with earth to the debth of 4 inches. in this Situation they Suffered it to remain about 3 hours when they took it out fit for use. at 6 oClock P M Labiech returned and informed us that he had killed a female Bear and two Cubs, at a long distance from Camp towards the mountains. he brought in two large dark brown pheasents which he had also killed Shannon also returned also with a few black Pheasents and two squirels which he had killed in the wood land towards Collins Creek. This nation esteem the Killing of one of those tremendeous animals (the Bear) equally great with that of an enemy in the field of action-. we gave the Claws of those bear which Collins had killed to Hohastillpelp.
Collins came back in the evening with the two bears he had hunted earlier that day. One was an old male in great condition, while the other was a female with cubs that was meager. We shared some of the bear meat—two shoulders and a ham—with the Indians, about 15 in total. They cooked it in the following way: using a hot fire made from dried wood, they threw in some small stones from the river. Once the fire had burned down and heated the stones, they laid them out flat and placed pine boughs on top. Then, they arranged the bear meat in strips, putting boughs between each layer and covering it all with more boughs. After that, they poured on a small amount of water and covered everything with about four inches of dirt. They let it cook like this for about three hours before taking it out, and it was ready to eat. At 6 PM, Labiech returned, telling us he had killed a female bear and two cubs at a distance from camp toward the mountains. He also brought in two large dark brown pheasants he had hunted. Shannon returned as well, with a few black pheasants and two squirrels he had caught in the woods near Collins Creek. This group considers the hunting of such powerful animals (the bear) to be as significant as defeating an enemy in battle. We gave the claws from the bears Collins had killed to Hohastillpelp.
[Lewis, May 15, 1806]
Thursday May 15th 1806. This morning early Reubin Fields in surching for his horse saw a large bear at no great distance from camp; several men went in pursuit of the bear, they followed his trail a considerable distance but could not come up with him. Labuish and Shannon set out with a view to establish a hunting camp and continuing several days, two others accompanyed them in order to bring in the three bear which Labuish had killed. Drewyer and Cruzatte were sent up the river; Sheilds R. Feilds and Willard hunted in the hills near the camp they returned in the evening with a few pheasants only and reported that there was much late appearance of bear, but beleived that they had gone off to a greater distance. at 11 A.M. the men returned with the bear which Labuich had killed. These bear gave me a stronger evidence of the various coloured bear of this country being one speceis only, than any I have heretofore had. The female was black with a considerable proportion of white hairs intermixed and a white spot on the breast, one of the young bear was jut black and the other of a light redish brown or bey colour. the poil of these bear were infinitely longer finer and thicker than the black bear their tallons also longer and more blont as if woarn by diging roots. the white and redish brown or bey coloured bear I saw together on the Missouri; the bey and grizly have been seen and killed together here for these were the colours of those which Collins killed yesterday. in short it is not common to find two bear here of this speceis precisely of the same colour, and if we were to attempt to distinguish them by their collours and to denominate each colour a distinct speceis we should soon find at least twenty. some bear nearly white have also been seen by our hunters at this place. the most striking differences between this speceis of bear and the common black bear are that the former are larger, have longer tallons and tusks, prey more on other animals, do not lie so long nor so closely in winter quarters, and will not climb a tree tho eversoheardly pressed. the variagated bear I beleive to be the same here with those on the missouri but these are not as ferocious as those perhaps from the circumstance of their being compelled from the scarcity of game in this quarter to live more on roots and of course not so much in the habit of seizing and devouring living animals. the bear here are far from being as passive as the common black bear they have attacked and faught our hunters already but not so fiercely as those of the Missouri. there are also some of the common black bear in this neighbourhood. Frazier, J. Fields and Wiser complain of violent pains in their heads, and Howard and York are afflicted with the cholic. I attribute these complaints to their diet of roots which they have not been accustomed. Tunnachemootoolt and 12 of his young men left us this morning on their return to their village. Hohastillpilp and three old men remained untill 5 in the evening when they also departed. at 1 P.M. a party of 14 natives on horseback passed our camp on a hunting excurtion; they were armed with bows and arrows and had decoys for the deer these are the skins of the heads and upper portions of the necks of the deer extended in their natural shape by means of a fraim of little sticks placed within. the hunter when he sees a deer conceals himself and with his hand gives to the decoy the action of a deer at feed; and thus induces the deer within arrowshot; in this mode the indians hunt on foot in the woodlands where they cannot pursue the deer with horses which is their favorite method when the ground will permit.—we had all of our horses driven together today near our camp, which we have directed shall be done each day in order to familiarize them to each other. several of the horses which were gelded yesterday are much swolen particularly those cut by Drewyer, the others bled most but appear much better today than the others.
Thursday, May 15th, 1806. This morning, Reubin Fields, while searching for his horse, saw a large bear not far from the camp. Several men went after the bear and followed its trail for quite a distance but couldn’t catch up to it. Labuish and Shannon set out to establish a hunting camp for several days, and two others accompanied them to bring in the three bears that Labuish had killed. Drewyer and Cruzatte were sent up the river; Shields, R. Fields, and Willard hunted in the hills near the camp. They returned in the evening with only a few pheasants and reported that there was little recent sign of bears but believed they had moved further away. At 11 A.M., the men returned with the bear that Labuish had killed. This bear provided stronger evidence that the various colored bears in this region are just one species than I had previously encountered. The female was black with a significant amount of white hairs mixed in and had a white spot on her breast. One of the young bears was pure black, while the other was a light reddish-brown or bay color. The fur of these bears was much longer, finer, and thicker than that of black bears; their claws were also longer and blunter, as if worn from digging for roots. I saw the white and reddish-brown bears together on the Missouri; both bay and grizzly bears have been seen and killed here because those were the colors of the ones Collins killed yesterday. In short, it’s uncommon to find two bears of this species that are exactly the same color here, and if we tried to distinguish them by color and label each color as a distinct species, we would quickly identify at least twenty. Some nearly white bears have also been spotted by our hunters in this area. The most notable differences between this species and the common black bear are that the former are larger, have longer claws and tusks, prey more on other animals, do not stay in winter quarters as long or as closely, and do not climb trees even if pressed hard. I believe the varied bears here are the same as those on the Missouri, but they are perhaps less ferocious due to their necessity to feed on roots due to the scarcity of game in this area, thus not being as accustomed to hunting and eating living animals. The bears here are far from passive like the common black bear; they have attacked and fought our hunters already, but not as fiercely as those in Missouri. There are also some common black bears in this neighborhood. Frazier, J. Fields, and Wiser are complaining of severe headaches, and Howard and York are suffering from colic. I attribute these complaints to their diet of roots, which they are not used to. Tunnachemootoolt and 12 of his young men left us this morning on their way back to their village. Hohastillpilp and three older men stayed until 5 in the evening when they also left. At 1 P.M., a group of 14 natives on horseback passed our camp on a hunting expedition; they were armed with bows and arrows and had decoys for the deer, which are skins of the heads and upper portions of the necks of deer, arranged in their natural shape with little sticks placed inside. When the hunter sees a deer, he hides and makes the decoy mimic a feeding deer to lure the deer within arrow range; this is how the Indians hunt on foot in the woods where they cannot chase deer on horseback, which is their preferred method when the terrain allows. We gathered all our horses together today near our camp, which we intend to do every day to help them get familiar with each other. Several of the horses that were gelded yesterday are quite swollen, especially those operated on by Drewyer; the others bled the most but seem to be doing better today than the others.
we had our baggage better secured under a good shelter formed of grass; we also strengthened our little fortification with pine poles and brush, and the party formed themselves very comfortable tents with willow poles and grass in the form of the orning of a waggon, these were made perfectly secure as well from the heat of the sun as from rain. we had a bower constructed for ourselves under which we set by day and sleep under the part of an old sail now our only tent as the leather lodge has become rotten and unfit for use. about noon the sun shines with intense heat in the bottoms of the river. the air on the tom of the river hills or high plain forms a distinct climate, the air is much colder, and vegitation is not as forward by at least 15 or perhaps 20 days. the rains which fall in the river bottoms are snows on the plain. at the distance of fifteen miles from the river and on the Eastern border of this plain the Rocky Mountains commence and present us with winter it it's utmost extreem. the snow is yet many feet deep even near the base of these mountains; here we have summer spring and winter within the short space of 15 or 20 miles.—Hohastillpilp and the three old men being unable to pass the river as the canoe had been taken away, returned to our camp late in the evening and remained with us all night.
We secured our bags under a sturdy shelter made of grass. We also reinforced our little fort with pine poles and brush. The group set up comfortable tents using willow poles and grass, shaped like the top of a wagon. These were well protected from both the sun's heat and rain. We built a shaded area for ourselves where we could sit during the day and sleep under an old sail, which was now our only tent since the leather lodge had rotted and was no longer usable. Around noon, the sun became incredibly hot in the river valleys. The air at the top of the river hills or high plains has a completely different climate; it’s much colder, and vegetation lags behind by at least 15 to 20 days. The rains that fall in the river valleys are actually snow on the plains. About fifteen miles from the river, on the eastern edge of this plain, the Rocky Mountains begin and bring us the harshest winter. The snow is still several feet deep, even close to the base of these mountains; here we experience summer, spring, and winter all within a short distance of 15 or 20 miles. Hohastillpilp and the three old men, unable to cross the river since the canoe was gone, returned to our camp late in the evening and stayed with us all night.
[Clark, May 15, 1806]
Thursday 15th of May 1806 This morning Reubin Fields went out to hunt his horse very early and Saw a large bear and no great distance from Camp. Several men went in pursute of the bear, and prosued his trail Some time without gitting Sight of this Monster. Shannon went out with Labeach to hunt and continue out 3 days, Gibson and Hall accompanied them for the meat Labeech killed yesterday which they brought in by 11 A M. this Morning the female was black with white hares intermixed and a white Spot on the breast the Cubs were about the Size of a dog also pore. one of them very black and the other a light redish brown or bey colour. These bear give me a Stronger evidence of the various Coloured bear of this Country being one Specie only, than any I have heretofore had. Several other Colours have been seen. Drewyer and Peter Crusat went up the river. John Shields, R. Fields and Willard hunted in the hills near Camp and returned before 2 P. M without killing any thing except a fiew Grows. they saw but few deer. Some bear Sign. Frazur Jo. Fields and Peter Wizer Complain of a violent pain in their heads. Howard and York with violent Cholicks. the Cause of those disorders we are unable to account for. their diet and the Sudin Change of Climate must contribute. The Great Chief Tin nach-e-moo-tolt (or broken Arm) and 12 of the young men of his nation left us today about 11 oClock and Crossed the river to his Village Hoh-hast-ill-pilt and 3 old men Continued with us untill about 5 P. M when they left us and returnd. to their Village. a party of 14 Indians passed our Camp about 1 P.M. on their way to the leavel uplands to run and kill the deer with their horses and Bows and arrows. Some of them were also provided with deers heads Cased for the purpose of decoying the deer. those men continued withus but a fiew minits and proceeded on. Those people hunt most Commonly on horse back Seround the Deer or Goat which they find in the open plains & kill them with their arrows. tho they Sometimes hunt the deer on foot & decoy them. we had all of our horses drove together to day with a view to fermilurize them to each other. those that were Cut yesterday are Stiff and Several of them much Swelled. we had all our baggage Secured and Covered with a rouf of Straw. our little fortification also completely Secured with brush around which our Camp is formed. the Greater part of our Security from the rains &c. is the grass which is formed in a kind of ruff So as to turn the rain Completely and is much the best tents we have. as the days are worm &c. we have a bowry made to write under which we find not only comfortable but necessary, to keep off the intence heet of the Sun which has great effect in this low bottom. on the high plains off the river the Climate is entirely different cool. Some Snow on the north hill Sides near the top and vegetation near 3 weeks later than in the river bottoms. and the rocky Mountains imedeately in view covered Several say 4 & 5 feet deep with Snow. here I behold three different Climats within a fiew miles a little before dark Hoh-hast-ill-pilt and the 3 old men & one other returned to our Camp and informed us the Canoe was a great way off and they could not cross this evening.
Thursday, May 15, 1806 This morning, Reubin Fields went out to look for his horse early and saw a large bear not too far from camp. Several men chased after the bear and followed its trail for a while without getting sight of this creature. Shannon went out with Labeach to hunt and stayed out for three days. Gibson and Hall joined them for the meat Labeach killed yesterday, which they brought in by 11 A.M. This morning, the female bear was black with white hairs mixed in and had a white spot on her chest. The cubs were about the size of a dog, one very black and the other a light reddish-brown or bay color. These bears give me stronger evidence that the various colored bears in this country are one species rather than any I’ve seen before. Several other colors have also been observed. Drewyer and Peter Crusat went up the river. John Shields, R. Fields, and Willard hunted in the hills near camp and returned before 2 P.M. without killing anything except a few grouse. They saw very few deer and some bear signs. Frazur, Jo. Fields, and Peter Wizer complained of severe headaches. Howard and York had intense colicky pains. We can't figure out the cause of these ailments; their diet and the sudden change in climate must play a part. The Great Chief Tin nach-e-moo-tolt (or Broken Arm) and 12 of the young men of his nation left us today around 11 o'clock and crossed the river to his village Hoh-hast-ill-pilt, while three old men stayed with us until about 5 P.M. when they returned to their village. A group of 14 Indians passed by our camp around 1 P.M. on their way to the open uplands to chase and kill deer with their horses and bows and arrows. Some of them also brought deer heads covered up to lure the deer. They stayed with us for just a few minutes before moving on. These people usually hunt on horseback, surrounding deer or goats in the open plains and killing them with arrows, although they sometimes hunt deer on foot and use decoys. We had all of our horses rounded up today to help them get familiar with each other. Those that were cut yesterday are stiff, and several of them are swollen. We secured all our baggage and covered it with straw. Our small fortification is also completely secured with brush around our camp. Most of our protection from the rain and such is the grass that forms a kind of roof to redirect the rain and is much better than any tents we have. Since the days are warm and so on, we've set up a shelter to write underneath, which we find not only comfortable but necessary to shield us from the intense heat of the sun that strongly affects this low area. On the high plains off the river, the climate is completely different—cool. There’s some snow on the north hill sides near the top, and vegetation is about three weeks behind that in the river bottoms, while the rocky mountains right in view are covered with several feet of snow, some saying 4 to 5 feet deep. Here, I see three different climates within just a few miles. A little before dark, Hoh-hast-ill-pilt, the three old men, and one other person returned to our camp and informed us that the canoe was still a long way off and they couldn’t cross this evening.
[Lewis, May 16, 1806]
Friday May 16th 1806. Drewyer's horse left his camp last night and was brought to us this morning by an indian who informed us he had found him a considerable distance towards the mountains. Hohastillpilp and all the natives left us about noon and informed us that they were going up the river some distance to a place at which they expected to fine a canoe, we gave them the head and neck of a bear, a part of which they eat and took the ballance with them. these people sometimes kill the variagated bear when they can get them in the open plain where they can pursue them on horseback and shoot them with their arrows. the black bear they more frequently kill as they are less ferocious. our sick men are much better today. Sahcargarmeah geathered a quantity of the roots of a speceis of fennel which we found very agreeable food, the flavor of this root is not unlike annis seed, and they dispell the wind which the roots called Cows and quawmash are apt to create particularly the latter. we also boil a small onion which we find in great abundance, with other roots and find them also an antidote to the effects of the others. the mush of roots we find adds much to the comfort of our diet.—we sent out several hunters this morning but they returned about 11 A.M. without success; they killed a few pheasants only. at 5 P.M. Drewyer and Cruzatte returned having killed one deer only. Drewyer had wounded three bear which he said were as white as sheep but had obtained neither of them. they informed us that the hunting was but bad in the quarter they had been, the Country was broken and thickly covered in most parts with underbrush. a little after dark Shannon and Labuish returned with one deer; they informed us that game was wild and scarce, that a large creek (Collins Creek) ran parallel with the river at the distance of about 5 or 6 miles which they found impracticable to pass with their horses in consequence of the debth and rapidity of it's current. beyond this creek the Indians inform us that there is great abundance of game. Sergt. Pryor and Collins who set out this morning on a hunting excurtion did not return this evening.—I killed a snake near our camp, it is 3 feet 11 Inches in length, is much the colour of the rattlesnake common to the middle atlantic states, it has no poisonous teeth. it has 218 scutae on the abdomen and fifty nine squamae or half formed scutae on the tail. the eye is of moderate size, the iris of a dark yellowish brown and puple black. there is nothing remarkable in the form of the head which is not so wide across the jaws as those of the poisonous class of snakes usually are.—I preserved the skin of this snake.
Friday, May 16, 1806. Drewyer’s horse left camp last night and was brought back to us this morning by an Indian who told us he found it quite a distance toward the mountains. Hohastillpilp and all the locals left us around noon and said they were going up the river to a spot where they expected to find a canoe. We gave them the head and neck of a bear; they ate part of it and took the rest with them. These people sometimes hunt the spotted bear when they can see them in the open plains, allowing them to chase and shoot them with arrows. They more often kill black bears because they’re less aggressive. Our sick men are feeling much better today. Sahcargarmeah gathered some roots from a type of fennel, which we found very tasty. The flavor of this root is similar to anise, and it helps with gas, which the roots known as cows and quawmash can cause, especially the latter. We also boiled a small onion, which we found in great abundance, along with other roots, and they also help counteract the effects of the others. The mixture of roots adds a lot to the comfort of our meals. We sent out several hunters this morning, but they returned around 11 A.M. without much success; they only killed a few pheasants. At 5 P.M., Drewyer and Cruzatte came back with just one deer. Drewyer had wounded three bears that he described as white as sheep but didn’t catch any. They told us that hunting was not great in the area they were in, as the landscape was rough and heavily covered with underbrush. Shortly after dark, Shannon and Labuish returned with one deer; they said the game was skittish and scarce. They mentioned that a large creek (Collins Creek) ran parallel to the river about 5 or 6 miles away, which was difficult to cross with their horses due to its depth and swift current. Beyond this creek, the Indians tell us there is plenty of game. Sergt. Pryor and Collins, who set out this morning on a hunting trip, did not come back this evening. I killed a snake near our camp; it measures 3 feet 11 inches long and resembles the rattlesnake common to the mid-Atlantic states, though it has no fangs. It has 218 scales on its belly and fifty-nine underdeveloped scales on its tail. The eye is of moderate size with a dark yellowish-brown iris and a black pupil. There is nothing unusual about the shape of its head, which isn’t as wide across the jaws as those of venomous snakes typically are. I preserved the skin of this snake.
[Clark, May 16, 1806]
Friday 16th May 1806 a cloudy morning with Some rain which continued untill Meridean at intervales, but very moderately. a man and boy Came to our Camp at 11 A. M with Drewyers Horse which he informed us he found at a long distance towards the Mtns. this horse must have Strayed from Drewyers Camp last night. Hohhastillpelt and all the nativs left us at merdn. and went up the river with a view to Cross at Some distance above where they expected to find a Canoe.
Friday, May 16, 1806, was a cloudy morning with some rain that continued until noon, but very lightly. A man and a boy arrived at our camp at 11 A.M. with Drewyer's horse, which he said he found a long way off toward the mountains. This horse must have wandered away from Drewyer's camp last night. Hohhastillpelt and all the natives left us at noon and went up the river to try to cross at some distance above where they hoped to find a canoe.
we gave those people a head and Neck of the largest bear a part of which they eate and the balance they Carefully took with them for their children. The Indians of this Country Seldom kill the bear they are very much afraid of them and the killing of a white or Grzley bear, is as great a feet as two of their enimy. the fiew of those Animals which they Chance to kill is found in the leavel open lands and pursued on horses & killed with their Arrows. they are fond of the flesh of this animal and eate emoderately of it when they have a Sufficiency to indulge themselves. The men who were complaining of the head ake and Cholicks yesterday and last night are much better to day. Shabonos Squar gatherd a quantity of fenel roots which we find very paleatiable and nurishing food. the Onion we also find in abundance and boil it with our meat. Shields rode out and hunted in the morning without Suckcess he returned at 11 A.M. having killed only a black wood pecker with a red breast as discribed hereafter. A snake which resembles the rattle Snake in colour and Spots on the Skin, longer and inosent. at 5 P M Drewyer and Crusat returned haveing killed only one Deer only. D. Shot 3 White bear but Could get neither of them. they inform us that the hunting in the derection they were is very bad. the country hilly & brushey. a little after dark Shannon & Labiech came in from the Chass. Shannon killed one deer which he brought in. this deer being the only animal they Could kill. they informed that a large Creek (Collens's Creek) run parrelal with the river at about 5 or 6 miles distant between which there was but little game, and the Creek being high rapid and the Smothe rocks in the bottom rendered it impossible for them to pass it on hors back. Sergt. Pryor and Collins who Set out early this morning hunting have not returned. we derected that the horses be drove up in future at 12 oClock on each day
We gave those people the head and neck of the largest bear, part of which they ate and the rest they carefully took with them for their children. The Native Americans in this area rarely kill bears because they are very afraid of them. Killing a white or grizzly bear is as significant to them as defeating two of their enemies. The few bears they manage to kill are found in the open, level lands and pursued on horseback, using arrows. They enjoy the flesh of this animal and eat it moderately when they have enough to indulge themselves. The men who complained of headaches and stomach issues yesterday and last night are feeling much better today. Shabono's wife gathered a quantity of fennel roots, which we find very tasty and nutritious. We also find plenty of onions and boil them with our meat. Shields went out hunting in the morning but had no success; he returned at 11 A.M. having killed only a black woodpecker with a red breast, as described later. There was a snake that resembles a rattlesnake in color and skin spots, longer and harmless. At 5 P.M., Drewyer and Crusat returned, having only killed one deer. D. shot at three white bears but couldn't get any of them. They told us that the hunting in their area was very bad; the land was hilly and brushy. A little after dark, Shannon and Labiech returned from the chase. Shannon killed one deer, which he brought back; this was the only animal they could manage to kill. They reported that a large creek (Collins's Creek) runs parallel to the river about 5 or 6 miles away, with little game between them, and the creek was high and rapid, making it impossible for them to cross on horseback due to the smooth rocks at the bottom. Sergeant Pryor and Collins, who set out early this morning to hunt, have not returned. We directed that the horses be brought up daily at 12 o'clock from now on.
[Lewis, May 17, 1806]
Saturday May 17th 1806. It rained the greater part of the last night and this morning untill 8 OCk. the water passed through flimzy covering and wet our bed most perfectly in shot we lay in the water all the latter part of the night. unfortunately my chronometer which for greater security I have woarn in my fob for ten days past, got wet last night; it seemed a little extraordinary that every part of my breechies which were under my head, should have escaped the moisture except the fob where the time peice was. I opened it and founded it nearly filled with water which I carefully drained out exposed it to the air and wiped the works as well as I could with dry feathers after which I touched them with a little bears oil. several parts of the iron and steel works were rusted a little which I wiped with all the care in my power. I set her to going and from her apparent motion hope she has sustained no material injury.—at 9 A.M. Sergt. Pryor and Collins returned, Sergt. Pryor brought the Skin and flesh of a black bear which he had killed; Collins had also killed a very large variegated bear but his horse having absconded last evening was unable to bring it. they had secured this meat perfectly from the wolves or birds and as it was at a considerable distance we did not think proper to send for it today. neither of these bear were in good order. as the bear are reather ferocious and we are obliged to depend on them pincipally for our subsistence we thought it most advisable to direct at least two hunters to go together, and they accordingly peared themselves out for this purpose. we also apportioned the horses to the several hunters in order that they should be equally rode and thereby prevent any horse being materially injured by being too constantly hunted. we appointed the men not hunters to take charge of certain horses in the absence of the hunters and directed the hunters to set out in different directions early in the morning and not return untill they had killed some game. it rained moderately the greater part of the day and snowed as usual on the plain. Sergt. Pryor informed me that it was shoe deep this morning when he came down. it is somewhat astonishing that the grass and a variety of plants which are now from a foot to 18 inches high on these plains sustain no injury from the snow or frost; many of those plants are in blume and appear to be of a tender susceptable texture. we have been visited by no indians today, and occurrence which has not taken place before since we left the Narrows of the Columbia.—I am pleased at finding the river rise so rapidly, it now doubt is attributeable to the meting snows of the mountains; that icy barier which seperates me from my friends and Country, from all which makes life esteemable.—patience, patience
Saturday, May 17th, 1806. It rained most of last night and this morning until 8 AM. The water seeped through our flimsy cover and soaked our bed completely; we spent the latter part of the night lying in water. Unfortunately, my chronometer, which I've been carrying in my pocket for the past ten days for extra security, got wet last night. It was odd that every part of my pants that was under my head stayed dry except for the pocket where the watch was. I opened it and found it nearly filled with water, which I drained out carefully. I exposed it to the air and wiped the works as best I could with dry feathers, then I touched them with a little bear oil. Several parts of the iron and steel were slightly rusted, which I wiped with as much care as I could. I set it going again, and from its movement, I hope it hasn't sustained any serious damage. At 9 AM, Sergeant Pryor and Collins returned; Sergeant Pryor brought the skin and meat of a black bear he'd killed. Collins had also killed a very large spotted bear, but his horse had run away last night, so he couldn't bring it back. They had secured the meat from wolves or birds perfectly, but since it was a considerable distance away, we decided not to send for it today. Neither of the bears was in good condition. Since bears are quite ferocious, and we rely on them primarily for food, we thought it best to send at least two hunters together, so they paired up for this purpose. We also assigned the horses to the various hunters to ensure they were evenly ridden, preventing any horse from being overworked. The men who weren’t hunting were assigned to look after certain horses in the absence of the hunters and instructed the hunters to set out in different directions early in the morning and not return until they had killed some game. It rained moderately for most of the day and snowed as usual on the plains. Sergeant Pryor told me that the snow was shoep deep this morning when he came down. It’s somewhat surprising that the grass and various plants, now standing 1 to 1.5 feet tall on these plains, show no damage from the snow or frost; many of these plants are blooming and seem to be quite delicate. We haven't been visited by any Indians today, which hasn't happened since we left the Narrows of the Columbia. I'm glad to see the river rising so quickly; this is undoubtedly due to the melting snow from the mountains, that icy barrier keeping me from my friends and country, from everything that makes life worth living. Patience, patience.
[Clark, May 17, 1806]
Saturday 17th May 1806 rained moderately all the last night and this morning untill we are wet. The little river on which we are encamped rise Sepriseingly fast. at 9 A.M. Sergt. Pryor and Collins returned with the flesh and Skin of a Black bear on Sgt. Pryors horse. Collins's horse haveing run off from him yesterday. they informed us that they had each killed a Bear neither of which were fat. the one which they left in the woods was of the white Species and very large we did not think it necessary in the cours of this day to Send for the flesh of the bear left in the woods. the rains of the last night unfortunately wet the Crenomuter in the fob of Capt. L. breaches. which has never before been wet Since we Set out on this expedition. her works were cautiously wiped and made dry by Capt. L. and I think She will recive no injury from this misfortune &c. we arranged the hunters and horses to each hunter and directed them to turn out in the morning early and continue out untill they Killed Something. others arranged so as to take care of the hunters horses in their absence. rained moderately all day. at the Same time Snowed on the mountains which is in to the S. E. of us. no Indians visit us to day which is a Singular circumstance as we have not been one day without Indians Since we left the long narrows of the Columbia. the fiew worm days which we have had has melted the Snows in the Mountains and the river has rose considerably. that icy barier which Seperates me from my friends and Country, from all which makes life estimable, is yet white with the Snow which is maney feet deep. I frequently Consult the nativs on the subject of passing this tremendious barier which now present themselves to our view for great extent, they all appear to agree as to the time those Mountains may be passed which is about the Middle of June.
Saturday, May 17, 1806, it rained moderately all night and this morning until we got wet. The little river where we are camped is rising surprisingly fast. At 9 A.M., Sergeant Pryor and Collins returned with the flesh and skin of a black bear on Sergeant Pryor's horse. Collins's horse had run off from him yesterday. They told us that they each killed a bear, neither of which was fat. The one they left in the woods was of the white species and very large. We didn’t think it necessary to send for the flesh of the bear left in the woods today. Unfortunately, last night's rain wet the chronometer in Captain L.'s pocket, which has never been wet since we set out on this expedition. Captain L. carefully wiped it dry, and I think it will suffer no lasting damage from this misfortune, etc. We arranged the hunters and horses for each hunter and instructed them to set out early in the morning and keep going until they killed something. Others were arranged to take care of the hunters' horses in their absence. It rained moderately all day, and at the same time, it snowed on the mountains to the southeast of us. No Indians visited us today, which is unusual since we haven’t gone a day without Indians since we left the long narrows of the Columbia. The few warm days we’ve had melted the snow in the mountains, and the river has risen considerably. That icy barrier separating me from my friends and my country, from everything that makes life worthwhile, is still covered in snow, several feet deep. I often consult the natives about crossing this massive barrier that now stretches out before us. They all seem to agree that the mountains can be crossed around the middle of June.
Sergt. pryor informs me that the Snow on the high plains from the river was Shoe deep this morning when he Came down. it is somewhat estonishing that the grass and a variety of Plants Sustain no injurey from the Snow or frost; Maney of those plants are in blume and appear to be of tender susceptable texture. At the distance of 18 Miles from the river and on the Eastern border of the high Plain the Rocky Mountain Commences and presents us with Winter here we have Summer, Spring and Winter in the Short Space of twenty or thirty miles
Sgt. Pryor tells me that the snow on the high plains from the river was shoe-deep this morning when he came down. It’s quite astonishing that the grass and a variety of plants show no damage from the snow or frost; many of those plants are blooming and seem to have a delicate texture. Eighteen miles from the river, on the eastern edge of the high plain, the Rocky Mountains begin and give us winter, while here we have summer, spring, and winter all within a short distance of twenty or thirty miles.
[Lewis, May 18, 1806]
Sunday May 18th 1806. Twelve hunters turned out this morning in different directions agreeably to the order of last evening. Potts and Whitehouse accompanied Collins to the bear he had killed on the 16th inst. with which they returned in the afternoon. the colours of this bear was a mixture of light redish brown white and dark brown in which the bey or redish brown predominated, the fur was bey as well as the lower pertion of the long hairs, the white next succeeded in the long hairs which at their extremites were dark brown, this uncommon mixture might be termed a bey grizzle.
Sunday, May 18th, 1806. Twelve hunters set out this morning in different directions, as agreed upon last evening. Potts and Whitehouse went with Collins to retrieve the bear he had killed on the 16th. They returned in the afternoon. The colors of this bear were a mix of light reddish-brown, white, and dark brown, with the reddish-brown being the most prominent. The fur was reddish-brown, and the lower part of the long hairs was also reddish-brown. Next was the white in the long hairs, which had dark brown tips. This unusual mix could be described as a reddish-brown grizzle.
our indian woman was busily engaged today in laying in a store of the fennel roots for the Rocky mountains. these are called by the Shoshones year-pah. at 2 P.M. 3 Indians who had been hunting towards the place at which we met with Chopunnish last fall, called by them the quawmash grounds, called at our camp; they informed us that they had been hunting several days and had killed nothing; we gave them a small peice of meat which they told us they would reserve for their small children who were very hungary; we smoked with them and they shortly after departed. early this morning the natives erected a lodge on the opposite side of the river near a fishing stand a little above us. no doubt to be in readiness for the salmon, the arrival of which they are so ardently wishing as well as ourselves. this stand is a small stage are warf constructed of sticks and projecting about 10 feet into the river and about 3 feet above the surface of the water on the extremity of this the fisherman stands with his scooping net, which differ but little in their form from those commonly used in our country it is formed thus. the fisherman exercised himself some hours today but I believe without success. at 3 P.M. J. Fields returned very unwell having killed nothing. shortly after an old man and woman arrived; the former had soar eyes and the latter complained of a lax and rheumatic effections. we gave the woman some creem of tartar and flour of sulpher, and washed the old man's eyes with a little eyewater. a little before dark Drewyer R. Fields and LaPage returned having been also unsuccessfull they had killed a hawk only and taken the part of a salmon from an Eagle, the latter altho it was of itself not valuable was an agreeable sight as it gave us reason to hope that the salmon would shortly be with us. these hunters had scowered the country between the Kooskooske and Collins's Creek from hence to their junction about 10 miles and had seen no deer or bear and but little sign of either. shortly after dark it began to rain and continued raining moderately all night. the air was extreemly cold and disagreeable and we lay in the water as the preceeding night.
Our Indian woman was busy today gathering fennel roots for the Rocky Mountains. The Shoshones call these roots year-pah. At 2 P.M., three Indians who had been hunting near the spot where we met the Chopunnish last fall, known to them as the quawmash grounds, stopped by our camp. They told us they had been hunting for several days without success, so we gave them a small piece of meat, which they said they would save for their hungry young children. We smoked with them, and they left shortly after. Earlier this morning, the locals set up a lodge across the river near a fishing spot just above us, likely to prepare for the salmon, which they and we are eagerly anticipating. This spot is a small platform or wharf made of sticks, extending about 10 feet into the river and about 3 feet above the water's surface. At the end of this platform, the fisherman stands with his scoop net, which is quite similar in shape to those commonly used in our country. The fisherman worked for several hours today but, as far as I know, without any success. At 3 P.M., J. Fields returned feeling unwell and having caught nothing. Soon after, an old man and woman arrived; the man had sore eyes, and the woman complained of a lax condition and rheumatism. We gave her some cream of tartar and sulfur flour, and we washed the old man's eyes with a bit of eye wash. A little before dark, Drewyer, R. Fields, and LaPage returned, also unsuccessful; they had only caught a hawk and taken part of a salmon from an eagle. Although the latter wasn't valuable, it was a pleasant sight as it gave us hope that the salmon would soon arrive. These hunters had scoured the area between the Kooskooske and Collins's Creek, about 10 miles, and had seen no deer or bear, with very little sign of either. Shortly after dark, it started to rain and continued to rain moderately all night. The air was extremely cold and uncomfortable, and we lay in the water, just like the previous night.
[Clark, May 18, 1806]
Sunday 18th May 1806 Cloudy morning 12 hunters turned out this morning in different directions agreeably to the order of yesterday. Potts and Whitehouse accompanied Collins to the bear which he had killed on the 16th and brought in the flesh and Skin. this bear was not large but remarkably light coloured the hair of it as also the hair of all those which has been killed is very thick and long. The Squar wife to Shabono busied her Self gathering the roots of the fenel Called by the Snake Indians Year-pah for the purpose of drying to eate on the Rocky mountains. those roots are very paliatiable either fresh rosted boiled or dried and are generally between the Size of a quill and that of a mans fingar and about the length of the latter. at 2 P.M. 3 Indians who had been out hunting towards the place we met with the Chopunnish last fall, which place they Call the quarmash grounds. those men had been out Several days and killed nothing. we gave them a Small piece of meat which they told us they would reserve for their Small Children who was very hungary. we Smoked with them and they departed. The nativs made a lodge on the opposit bank of the river a little above us at a fishing place. as all communication is cut off between us and the nativs on the opposit Side of the river, we cannot Say by whome or for what service that lodge has been errected as no one has been near it Since it was errected this morning. at 3 P M Jo. Field returned from the chase without killing any thing he complains of being unwell. Son after an old man and a woman arived the man with Sore eyes, and the woman with a gripeing and rhumatic effections. I gave the woman a dose of creme of tarter and flour of Sulphur, and the man Some eye water. a little before night Rueben Field Drewyer and LaPage returned haveing killed nothing but a large hawk they had hunted in the point between the Kooskooske and Collins's Creek and Saw but little Sign of either deer or Bear. the evening Cloudy, Soon after dark it began to rain and rained moderately all night-. LaPage took a Salmon from an Eagle at a Short distance below our Camp. this is induces us to believe that the Salmon is in this river and most probably will be here in great numbers in the Course of a fiew days.
Sunday, May 18, 1806 It was a cloudy morning. Twelve hunters set out in different directions this morning, following the plan from yesterday. Potts and Whitehouse accompanied Collins to the bear he had killed on the 16th and brought back the flesh and skin. This bear wasn't large but had a notably light color. Its fur, like that of all the bears killed, is very thick and long. The wife of Shabono, called the Squar, kept herself busy gathering the roots of a plant called "Year-pah" by the Snake Indians, for drying to eat in the Rocky Mountains. These roots are quite tasty whether fresh, roasted, boiled, or dried. They are generally between the size of a quill and a man's finger and about the length of the latter. At 2 PM, three Indians who had been hunting near the spot where we met the Chopunnish last fall, which they call the quarmash grounds, arrived. These men had been out for several days but hadn't killed anything. We gave them a small piece of meat, which they said they would save for their hungry small children. We smoked with them, and they left. The natives set up a lodge on the opposite bank of the river a little above us at a fishing spot. Since all communication is cut off between us and the natives on the other side of the river, we can’t say who built that lodge or for what purpose, as no one has been near it since it was put up this morning. At 3 PM, Jo. Field returned from the hunt without having killed anything and complained of feeling unwell. Soon after, an old man and a woman arrived; the man had sore eyes, and the woman experienced griping and rheumatic symptoms. I gave the woman a dose of cream of tartar and flour of sulfur, and the man some eye wash. A little before nightfall, Rueben Field, Drewyer, and LaPage returned, having killed nothing but a large hawk they hunted in the area between the Kooskooske and Collins's Creek and saw little sign of deer or bear. The evening was cloudy, and soon after dark, it began to rain, which continued moderately all night. LaPage took a salmon from an eagle a short distance below our camp. This leads us to believe that salmon are in this river and will likely be here in great numbers in the next few days.
[Lewis, May 19, 1806]
Monday May 19th 1806. It continued to rain this morning untill 8 OCk. when it became fair. We sent Charbono, Thompson, Potts, Hall and Wiser over the river to a village above in order to purchase some roots to eat with our lean bear meat. for this purpose we gave them a few awls, Kniting pins and Armbands. we were informed that there was a canoe at the village in which they could pass the river. I sent Joseph and R. Feilds up the river in surch of the horse which I rode over the Rocky mountains last fall. he had been seen yesterday with a parse) of indian horses and has become almost wild. at 11 A.M. Thompson returned from the village accompanied by a train of invalids consisting of 4 men 8 women and a child. The men had soar eyes and the women in addition to soar eyes had a variety of other complaints principally rheumatic; a weakness and pain in the loins is a common complaint with their women. eyewater was administered to all; to two of the women cathartics were given, to a third who appeared much dejected and who from their account of her disease we supposed it to be histerical, we gave 30 drops of Laudanum. the several parts of the others where the rheumatic pains were seated were well rubed with volitile linniment. all of those poor wretches thought themselves much benefited and all returned to their village well satisfyed. at 5 P.M. or marketers returned with about 6 bushels of the cows roots and a considerable quanty of bread of the same materials. late in the evening Reubin and Joseph Feilds returned with my horse; we had him immediately castrated together with two others by Drewyer in the ordinary. we amused ourselves about an hour this afternoon in looking at the men running their horses. several of those horses would be thought fleet in the U States. a little after dark Sheilds and Gibson returned unsuccessful) from the chase. they had seen some deer but no bear.
Monday, May 19th, 1806. It kept raining this morning until 8 o'clock, when it cleared up. We sent Charbono, Thompson, Potts, Hall, and Wiser across the river to a village upstream to buy some roots to eat with our lean bear meat. For this, we gave them a few awls, knitting pins, and armbands. We were told there was a canoe in the village that they could use to cross the river. I sent Joseph and R. Fields up the river to look for the horse I rode over the Rocky Mountains last fall. He had been seen yesterday with a herd of Indian horses and had become almost wild. At 11 A.M., Thompson returned from the village with a group of ill people, consisting of 4 men, 8 women, and a child. The men had sore eyes, and the women, besides sore eyes, had a variety of other issues, mostly rheumatic; a weakness and pain in the lower back was a common complaint among the women. We gave eyewash to everyone; two of the women received cathartics, and to a third woman who seemed very down and whose symptoms we suspected to be hysterical, we gave 30 drops of laudanum. The areas where the others had rheumatic pain were well rubbed with volatile liniment. All these poor people felt they benefited from the treatment and returned to their village quite satisfied. At 5 P.M., our marketers came back with about 6 bushels of cow's roots and a considerable amount of bread made from the same materials. Later in the evening, Reubin and Joseph Fields returned with my horse; we had him castrated along with two others by Drewyer in the usual manner. We spent about an hour this afternoon watching the men run their horses. Several of those horses would be considered fast in the U.S. A little after dark, Shields and Gibson returned unsuccessful from the hunt. They had seen some deer but no bears.
[Clark, May 19, 1806]
Monday 19th May 1806 Rained this morning untill 8 oClock when it Cleared off and became fair-. we Sent Shabono, Thomson, Potts, Hall & Wizer over to the Villages above to purchase Some roots to eate with our pore bear meat, for which purchase we gave them a fiew Awls, Knitting pins, & arm bans and directed them to proceed up on this Side of the river opposit to the Village and Cross in the Cano which we are informed is at that place. Sent Jo. & Reuben Field up the river a Short distance after the horse which Capt. Lewis rode over the mountains last fall, which horse was Seen yesterday with a gangue of Indian horses, and is Very wild-. about 11 oClock 4 men and 8 Women Came to our Camp with Thompson who went to the Village very early this morning. those Men applyed for Eye water and the Women had a Variety of Complaints tho the most general Complaint was the Rhumitism, pains in the back and the Sore eyes, they also brought fowd. a very young Child whome they Said had been very Sick-. I administered eye water to all, two of the women I gave a carthartic, one whose Spirets were very low and much hipedz I gave 30 drops of Lodomem, and to the others I had their backs hips legs thighs & arms well rubed with Volitile leniment all of those pore people thought themselves much benifited by what had been done for them, and at 3 P.M. they all returned to their Villages well satisfied. at 5 P.M. Potts, Shabono &c. returned from the Village with about 6 bushels of the root the nativs Call Cowse and Some bread of the Same root. Rubin & Jos. Fields returned with the horse Capt. Lewis rode across the rocky mountains we had this horse imedeately Cut with 2 others which we had not before thought proper to Castrate. we amused ourselves about an hour this after noon looking at the men run their horses, Several of them would be thought Swift horses in the atlantic States. a little after dark John Shields and Gibson returned haveing killed nothing. they Saw Some deer but Saw no bear.
Monday, May 19, 1806 It rained this morning until 8 o'clock when it cleared up and became nice. We sent Shabono, Thomson, Potts, Hall, and Wizer to the villages upstream to buy some roots to eat with our poor bear meat. For this purchase, we gave them a few awls, knitting pins, and armbands and told them to proceed along this side of the river opposite the village and cross in the canoe, which we were informed was there. We sent Jo. and Reuben Field up the river a short distance after the horse that Captain Lewis rode over the mountains last fall. This horse was seen yesterday with a group of Indian horses and is very wild. Around 11 o'clock, 4 men and 8 women came to our camp with Thompson, who had gone to the village very early this morning. The men asked for eye wash, and the women had various complaints, though the most common ones were rheumatism, back pain, and sore eyes. They also brought a very young child who they said had been quite sick. I administered eye wash to everyone, gave a laxative to two of the women, and to one whose spirits were very low and much hyped, I gave 30 drops of laudanum. The others had their backs, hips, legs, thighs, and arms well rubbed with volatile liniment. All those poor people felt they benefited from what had been done for them, and at 3 PM, they all returned to their villages very satisfied. At 5 PM, Potts, Shabono, and others returned from the village with about 6 bushels of the root the natives call cowse and some bread made from the same root. Rubin and Jos. Fields came back with the horse Captain Lewis rode across the Rocky Mountains. We immediately castrated this horse along with 2 others that we hadn’t thought to castrate before. We spent about an hour this afternoon watching the men run their horses. Several of them would be considered fast horses in the Atlantic States. A little after dark, John Shields and Gibson returned having killed nothing. They saw some deer but no bears.
[Lewis, May 20, 1806]
Tuesday May 20th 1806. It rained the greater part of last night and continued this morning untill noon when it cleared away about an hour and then rained at intervals untill 4 in the evening. our covering is so indifferent that Capt C. and myself lay in the water the greater part of the last night. Drewyer, and the two Feildses set out on a hunting excurtion towards the mountains. Shannon and Colter came in unsuccessfull, they had wounded a bear and a deer last evening but the night coming on they were unable to pursue them, and the snow which fell in the course of the night and this morning had covered the blood and rendered all further pursuit impracticable. at 2 P.M. Labuish arrived with a large buck of the Mule deer speceis which he had killed on Collins's Creek yesterday. he had left Cruzatte and Collins on the Creek where they were to wait his return. he informed us that it was snowing on the plain while it was raining at our camp in the river bottom. late in the evening Labuish and LaPage set out to join Collins and Cruzatte in order to resume their hunt early tomorrow morning. this evening a party of indians assembled on the opposite bank of the river and viewed our camp with much attention for some time and retired.—at 5 P.M. Frazier who had been permitted to go to the village this morning returned with a pasel of Roots and bread which he had purchased. brass buttons is an article of which these people are tolerably fond, the men have taken advantage of their prepossession in favour of buttons and have devested themselves of all they had in possesson which they have given in exchange for roots and bread.
Tuesday, May 20, 1806. It rained most of last night and continued this morning until noon when it cleared up for about an hour, then it rained again at intervals until 4 in the evening. Our shelter is so poor that Captain C. and I ended up lying in water for most of the night. Drewyer and the two Fields brothers went out hunting towards the mountains. Shannon and Colter returned unsuccessful; they had wounded a bear and a deer last evening, but night fell before they could track them down, and the snow that fell overnight and this morning covered the blood, making further pursuit impossible. At 2 PM, Labuish came back with a large mule deer he had killed on Collins's Creek yesterday. He had left Cruzatte and Collins by the creek, waiting for his return. He told us it was snowing on the plain while it was raining at our camp in the river bottom. Late in the evening, Labuish and LaPage set out to join Collins and Cruzatte to resume their hunt early tomorrow morning. This evening, a group of Indians gathered on the opposite bank of the river and observed our camp for a while before leaving. At 5 PM, Frazier, who had been allowed to go to the village this morning, returned with a bundle of roots and bread that he had bought. Brass buttons are something these people really like, and the men have taken advantage of their fondness for buttons, trading away all the buttons they had in exchange for roots and bread.
[Clark, May 20, 1806]
Tuesday 20th May 1806 rained the greater part of the last night and this morning untill meridean when it Cleared away for an hour and began to rain and rained at entervals untill 4 P.M. our Covering was so indefferent that Capt Lewis and my self was wet in our bed all the latter part of the night. Drewyer, Jos. & R. Fields Set out to towards the mountains. Shannon & Colter Came in without any thing. they had Seen and Shot at a Bear and a Deer neither of which they Could get. both of those Animals they must have Wounded Mortally, but the night Comeing on prevented their following them, and this morning the Snow had Covered the tracks and hid the blood and prevented their getting either of them.
Tuesday, May 20, 1806, it rained most of the night and this morning until noon when it cleared up for about an hour before it started raining again. It rained at intervals until 4 PM. Our shelter was so poor that Captain Lewis and I ended up wet in our beds for most of the night. Drewyer, Joseph, and R. Fields set out toward the mountains. Shannon and Colter returned empty-handed. They had seen and shot at a bear and a deer, but couldn’t retrieve either. They must have wounded both animals fatally, but as night fell, they were unable to track them, and this morning the snow covered the tracks and hid the blood, making it impossible for them to find either.
at 2 P.M. Labiech Came in with a large Buck of the Mule Deer Speces which he had killed on Collins's Creek yesterday. he left Collins and Peter Crusat on the Creek at which place they would Continue untill his return. he informd. us that it was Snowing on the leavel plains on the top of the hill all the time it was raining in the bottom at our Camp. Labiech & Lapage returned to Collins & Crusat in the evening late for the purpose of Pursueing the hunt in the Morning early. Several Indians came to the opposit side of the River and viewed us some time. at 5 P M Frazur who had leave to go to the Village returned with Some roots which he had purchased. cloudy &c.
At 2 P.M., Labiech came in with a large buck from the mule deer species that he had killed on Collins's Creek the day before. He left Collins and Peter Crusat at the creek, where they would stay until he returned. He informed us that it was snowing on the higher plains at the top of the hill while it was raining at our camp in the valley. Labiech and Lapage returned to Collins and Crusat late in the evening to prepare for the hunt early the next morning. Several Indians came to the opposite side of the river and observed us for a while. At 5 P.M., Frazur, who had permission to go to the village, returned with some roots he had purchased. It was cloudy, etc.
[Lewis, May 21, 1806]
Wednesday May 21st 1806. It rained a few hours this morning. Sheilds and Gibson set out to hunt towards the mountains. Collins came to camp at noon and remained about 2 hours; he has killed nothing since he left us last. we set five men at work to make a canoe for the purpose of fishing and passing the river. the Indians have already promised us a horse for this canoe when we have no longer any uce for her. as our tent was not sufficient to shelter us from the rain we had a lodge constructed of willow poles and grass in the form of the orning of a waggon closed at one end. this we had made sufficiently large to sleep in and to shelter the most important part of our baggage. it is perfectly secure against the rain sun and wind and affords us much the most comfortable shelter we have had since we left Fort Clatsop. today we divided the remnant of our store of merchandize among our party with a view that each should purchase therewith a parsel of roots and bread from the natives as his stores for the rocky mountains for there seems but little probability that we shall be enabled to make any dryed meat for that purpose and we cannot as yet form any just idea what resource the fish will furnish us. each man's stock in trade amounts to no more than one awl, one Kniting pin, a half an ounce of vermillion, two nedles, a few scanes of thead and about a yard of ribbon; a slender stock indeed with which to lay in a store of provision for that dreary wilderness. we would make the men collect these roots themselves but there are several speceis of hemlock which are so much like the cows that it is difficult to discriminate them from the cows and we are affraid that they might poison themselves. the indians have given us another horse to kill for provision which we keep as a reserved store. our dependence for subsistence is on our guns, the fish we may perhaps take, the roots we can purchase from the natives and as the last alternative our horses. we eat the last morsel of meat which we had for dinner this evening, yet nobody seems much conserned about the state of provision. Willard, Sergt. Ordway and Goodrich were permitted to visit the village today; the former returned in the evening with some roots and bread, the two last remaining all night. one of our party brought in a young sandhill crain it was about the size of a pateridge and of a redish brown colour, it appeared to be about 5 or six days old; these crains are abundant in this neighbourhood.
Wednesday, May 21, 1806. It rained for a few hours this morning. Sheilds and Gibson headed out to hunt in the mountains. Collins came to camp around noon and stayed for about 2 hours; he hasn’t caught anything since he left us last. We put five men to work making a canoe for fishing and crossing the river. The Indians have already promised us a horse for this canoe once we no longer need her. Since our tent wasn’t enough to keep us dry from the rain, we had a shelter built from willow poles and grass in the shape of a wagon cover, closed at one end. We made it large enough to sleep in and to protect our most important belongings. It is completely secure against rain, sun, and wind, providing us with the most comfortable shelter we’ve had since we left Fort Clatsop. Today, we divided the remaining merchandise among our group so that each person could buy some roots and bread from the locals for our supplies in the Rocky Mountains, as it seems unlikely we will be able to prepare dried meat for that purpose, and we can't yet determine what fish will provide us. Each man's supplies include just one awl, one knitting pin, half an ounce of vermilion, two needles, a few strands of thread, and about a yard of ribbon; a pretty slim stock for gathering provisions for that dreary wilderness. We would have the men gather these roots themselves, but there are several types of hemlock that look very much like the edible ones, making it difficult to tell them apart, and we’re afraid they might poison themselves. The Indians have given us another horse to use for provisions, which we’re keeping as a reserve. Our reliance for food comes from our guns, the fish we might catch, the roots we can buy from the locals, and as a last resort, our horses. We ate the last bit of meat we had for dinner this evening, yet no one seems too concerned about our food situation. Willard, Sgt. Ordway, and Goodrich were allowed to visit the village today; Willard returned in the evening with some roots and bread, while the other two stayed the night. One of our party brought back a young sandhill crane; it was about the size of a partridge and a reddish-brown color, appearing to be about 5 or 6 days old; these cranes are abundant in this area.
[Clark, May 21, 1806]
Wednesday 21st May 1806 rained this morning. Shields and Gibson Set out to hunt towards the mountains. Collins Came in to day and Stayed in about two hours, he has killed nothing Since he went out last. we Set 5 Men at work to build a Canoe for the purpose of takeing fish and passing the river and for which we can get a good horse. as our tent is not Sufficient to keep off the rain we are Compelled to have Some other resort for a Security from the repeeted Showers which fall. we have a small half circular place made and Covered with grass which makes a very Secure Shelter for us to Sleep under. We devided our Store of merchindize amongst our party for the purpose of precureing Some roots &c. of the nativs to each mans part amounted to about an awl Knitting pin a little paint and Some thread & 2 Needles which is but a Scanty dependance for roots to take us over those Great Snowey Barriers (rocky mountains) which is and will be the Cause of our Detention in this neighbourhood probably untill the 10 or 15 of June. they are at this time Covered deep with Snow. the plains on the high Country above us is also covered with Snow. Serjt. Ordway, Goodrich, & Willard went to the village to day to precure a fiew roots. we eate the last of our meat for Dinner to day, and our only Certain dependance is the roots we Can precure from the nativs for the fiew articles we have left those roots with what Game we Can precure from the wods will probably last us untill the arival of the Salmon. if they Should not; we have a horse in Store ready to be killed which the indians have offered to us. Willard returned from the Village. Sergt. Ordway and Goodrich Continued all night. one of the men brought me a young Sandhill Crain which was about 5 or 6 days old it was of a yellowish brown Colour, about the Size of a partridge. Those Crains are very abundant in every part of this country in pars of two, and Sometimes three together.
Wednesday, May 21, 1806, it rained this morning. Shields and Gibson set out to hunt toward the mountains. Collins came in today and stayed for about two hours; he hasn't killed anything since he last went out. We assigned five men to build a canoe for fishing and crossing the river, for which we can get a good horse. Since our tent isn’t enough to keep off the rain, we’re forced to find another shelter to protect us from the continuous showers. We made a small, half-circular area covered with grass that provides a very secure place for us to sleep under. We divided our store of merchandise among our group to trade for some roots, etc., from the natives. Each person's share amounted to about one awl, a knitting pin, a little paint, some thread, and two needles, which isn’t much to rely on for roots to get us over those great snowy barriers (the Rocky Mountains), which is likely to keep us in this area until June 10 or 15. They are currently covered deep in snow. The plains in the high country above us are also snow-covered. Sergeant Ordway, Goodrich, and Willard went to the village today to get a few roots. We ate the last of our meat for dinner today, and our only reliable resource is the roots we can get from the natives; what little we have left, along with whatever game we can catch, will probably last us until the salmon arrive. If not, we have a horse ready to be killed that the Indians have offered to us. Willard returned from the village. Sergeant Ordway and Goodrich stayed all night. One of the men brought me a young Sandhill crane, about 5 or 6 days old. It was a yellowish-brown color, about the size of a partridge. These cranes are very common in every part of this country, often seen in pairs, and sometimes in groups of three.
the party had gathered roots with leaves still attached they probably could have been sorted with Indian assistance. However, the parsley family (Apiaceae) is one of the most diverse and confusing plant families in the region, and Lewis could not be sure that the men would not bring back some other poisonous species not well known to the Indians. The decision to purchase roots was probably prudent.
the party had gathered roots with leaves still attached they probably could have been sorted with Indian help. However, the parsley family (Apiaceae) is one of the most diverse and confusing plant families in the region, and Lewis couldn’t be sure that the men wouldn’t bring back some other poisonous species that the Indians weren't familiar with. The decision to buy the roots was probably wise.
[Lewis, May 22, 1806]
Thursday May 22ed 1806. A fine morning we exposed all our baggage to air and dry as well as our store of roots and bread purchased from the natives. permited Windsor and McNeal to go to the indian village. Sergt. Ordway and Goodrich returned this morning with a good store of roots and bread. about noon 2 indian men came down the river on a raft and continued at our camp about 3 hours and returned to their village. we.sent out Shannon and Colter to hunt towards the mountains. we sent Sergt. Pryor down to the entrance of Collins's Creek to examine the country and look out for a good position for an encampment on the river below that Creek, having determined to remove our camp below that crek if it continues high, as soon as we have completed our canoe, as the country to which we are confined to hunt at present is limited by this creek and river to a very narrow tract, and game have already become scarce. if we can obtain a good situation below the entrance of this creek it will be much more eligible as the hunting country is more extensive and game more abundant than above. The horse which the indians have given us to kill was driven away yesterday by the natives with a gang of their horses I presume in mistake; being without meat at noon we directed one of the largest of our colts to be killed. we found the flesh of this animal fat tender and by no means illy flavoured. we have three others which we mean to reserve for the rocky mountains if we can subsist here without them. my horse which was castrated the day before yesterday wounded his thigh on the inner side with the rope by which he was confined that evening and is now so much swolen with the wound the castraiting and the collection of vermen that he cannot walk, in short he is the most wretched specticle; I had his wounds clensed of the vermen by washing them well with a strong decoction of the bark of the roots & leaves of elder but think the chances are against his recovery. at 3 P.M. we observed a large party of Indians on horseback in pursuit of a deer which they ran into the river opposite to our camp; Capt. C. Myself & three of our men shot and killed the deer in the water; the indians pursued it on a raft and caught it. it is astonishing to see these people ride down those steep hills which they do at full speed. on our return to camp we found Drewyer the Two Feildses Gibson and Sheilds just arrived with five deer which they had killed at a considerable distance towards the mountains. they also brought with them two red salmon trout which they had purchased from some indians whom they had met with on their return to camp.—Two Indians who were just arrived at our camp informed us that these salmon trout remained in this river the greater part of the winter, that they were not good at this season which we readily discovered, they were very meagre. these indians also informed us that there were at this time a great number of salmon at no great distance from hence in Lewis's river which had just arrived and were very fat and fine, they said it would be some yet before they would ascend this river as high as this place. a party of the natives on the opposite shore informed those with us that a party of the Shoshones had two nights past surrounded a lodge of their nation on the South side of Lewis's river, that the inhabitants having timely discovered the enimy effected their retreat in the course of the night and escaped. Charbono's Child is very ill this evening; he is cuting teeth, and for several days past has had a violent lax, which having suddonly stoped he was attacked with a high fever and his neck and throat are much swolen this evening. we gave him a doze of creem of tartar and flour of sulpher and applyed a poltice of boiled onions to his neck as warm as he could well bear it. Sergt. Pryor returned late in the evening and informed us that he had been down the river eight miles and that the clifts set in so abruptly to the river he could get no further without returning several miles back and ascending the hills and that he had thought it best to return and ride down tomorrow on the high plain as he believed the mouth of the creek was a considerable distance. Drewyer who has been at the place informs us that it is about 10 ms. and that there is no situation on the river for some distance below this creek which can possibly answer our purposes.—we dryed our baggage &c perfectly and put it up.-
Thursday, May 22, 1806. It was a nice morning, so we laid out all our gear to air and dry, along with the roots and bread we bought from the natives. We allowed Windsor and McNeal to go to the Indian village. Sergeant Ordway and Goodrich returned this morning with a good supply of roots and bread. Around noon, two Indian men came down the river on a raft and stayed at our camp for about three hours before heading back to their village. We sent Shannon and Colter to hunt toward the mountains. We dispatched Sergeant Pryor to check out Collins's Creek for a good campsite on the river below it, as we've decided to move our camp downstream if the creek remains high, once we finish our canoe. Right now, the area we can hunt is limited by this creek and river to a very narrow strip, and game is already getting scarce. If we can find a good spot below the creek’s entrance, it would be much better, as the hunting area would be larger and game more plentiful than above. The horse the Indians gave us to kill was driven off yesterday by the natives with a group of their horses, probably by mistake. Since we were out of meat at noon, we decided to have one of our larger colts killed. We found the meat of this animal to be fatty, tender, and quite tasty. We have three others that we plan to keep for the Rocky Mountains if we can manage without them here. My horse, which was castrated the day before yesterday, hurt his inner thigh with the rope he was tied with that evening, and it has become so swollen from the injury, the castration, and vermin that he can’t walk. In short, he’s in terrible shape. I cleaned the wounds of the vermin by washing them with a strong brew of elder bark, roots, and leaves, but I don't think he'll survive. At 3 P.M., we noticed a large group of Indians on horseback chasing a deer that ran into the river right across from our camp. Captain C., myself, and three of our men shot and killed the deer in the water; the Indians followed it on a raft and caught it. It’s amazing to see these people speed down those steep hills. When we returned to camp, we found Drewyer, the Two Fields, Gibson, and Shields just arriving with five deer they had killed a good distance toward the mountains. They also brought back two red salmon trout they purchased from some Indians they encountered on their way back. Two Indians who had just arrived at our camp told us that these salmon trout stay in the river for most of the winter, but they’re not good at this time of year, which we quickly confirmed; they were very lean. These Indians also mentioned that there are many salmon nearby in Lewis's River that have just arrived and are very fat and nice. They said it would be a while before they would swim upstream as far as here. A group of natives on the opposite shore informed those with us that a party of Shoshones had surrounded a lodge of their people on the south side of Lewis's River two nights ago, but the residents noticed the enemy in time, managed to escape during the night, and got away. Charbono's child is very sick this evening; he is teething and has had a violent diarrhea for several days. This suddenly stopped, and now he has a high fever, and his neck and throat are very swollen this evening. We gave him a dose of cream of tartar and sulfur flour and applied a warm onion poultice to his neck as best as he could tolerate. Sergeant Pryor returned late in the evening and told us he had gone down the river eight miles, but the cliffs came down so steeply that he couldn’t get any further without turning back several miles and climbing the hills. He thought it best to return and ride down tomorrow on the higher plains, as he believed the creek's mouth was quite far away. Drewyer, who had been to the spot, told us it's about ten miles away and there isn’t any suitable spot on the river for quite a distance below this creek. We thoroughly dried our gear and put it away.
[Clark, May 22, 1806]
Thursday 22nd May 1806 a fine day we exposed all our baggage to the Sun to air and dry, also our roots which we have precured of the nativs. gave promission to Windser & McNeal to go to the Indian Villages. Sergt. Ordway and goodrich returned at 11 A.M. Soon after 2 Indian men Came down on a raft and Continued with us about 3 hours and then returned to their Village. Shannon & Colter went out to day to hunt towards the mountains. Sergt. Pryor went out to hunt down the river, and examine the mouth of Collins Creek, if a good Situation was below that Creek for a Camp. this Creek which Cannot be passed owing to it's debth & rapidity is a great beariore in our way to the best hunting Country. it confines us to a narrow scope between this Creek and the river on which we are Camped. If a Situation can be found imedeately below the Creek it will answer us better than our present one as from thence we Can get out to Some distance to hunt, and be convenient also to the fish Should they pass up &c. The horse the Indian's left with us to kill has been drove to their village with a gang of horses which I suppose belonged to another man. as the greater part of our men have not had any Meat to eate for 2 days, and the roots they Complain of, not being accustiomed to live on them altogether we derected a large Coalt which was given to us by a young man with an elegant mare on the ____ instant. this Coalt was fat and was handsom looking meat. late in the evening we were informed that the horse which Capt L. rode over the rocky mountains and which was Cut day before yesterday had his hip out of place Since that time, and Could not walk. Capt. Lewis examined him and thought he Could not recover. at 3 P.M. we observed a number of Indians in chase of a deer on their horses on the opposit hill Sides. Soon after the deer took the water I Capt L. and 3 men run down on this Side, and killed the deer in the water, the deer floated down and the Indians took it by means of a raft which they had ready. on my return to Camp found Drewyer Jos. & Reuben Fields, Shields and gibson just arrived from the Chass with 5 Deer which they had killed on the high lands toward the mountains. they also brought with them two Salmon trout which they had purchased of Indians which they Saw on their return to Camp. at 5 p. M. two young men highly decurated in their way Came to our camp and informed us that the fat fish were in great numbers in Lewis's river. that those Salmon trout which our hunters brought were pore and Such as were Cought in the Winter in this river and were not the kind which Comes up in the Spring of the year. great number of Indians Come to the opposit bank and inform those on this Side that the Snake Indians had come to a Lodge on Lewis's river at night. the inhabitents previously discovering them abandened the house. Shabonoes Son a Small child is, dangerously ill. his jaw and throat is much Swelled. we apply a poltice of Onions. after giveing him Some creem of tarter &c. this day proved to be fine fair which afforded us an oppertunety of drying our baggage which had got a little wet.
Thursday, May 22, 1806, was a nice day. We laid out all our gear in the sun to air out and dry, including the roots we got from the natives. We gave permission to Windser and McNeal to go to the Indian villages. Sergt. Ordway and Goodrich returned at 11 A.M. Soon after, two Indian men came down on a raft and stayed with us for about three hours before returning to their village. Shannon and Colter went out today to hunt towards the mountains. Sergt. Pryor went out to hunt down the river and to check if there was a good spot to camp below Collins Creek. This creek, which we cannot cross because of its depth and swift current, poses a significant barrier on our way to the best hunting grounds. It confines us to a narrow area between the creek and the river where we are camped. If a suitable spot can be found just below the creek, it would work better for us than our current location, allowing us to hunt a greater distance and still be close to the fish if they come upstream, etc. The horse the Indians left for us to kill has been driven back to their village with a group of horses that likely belonged to another man. Since most of our crew hasn’t had meat to eat for two days, and they complain about the roots, not being used to eating them exclusively, we directed a large colt, which was given to us by a young man with a beautiful mare on the ____ instant. This colt was fat and looked like good meat. Late in the evening, we learned that the horse Capt. Lewis rode over the Rocky Mountains, which was injured the day before yesterday, had its hip out of place since then and couldn’t walk. Capt. Lewis examined it and thought it wouldn’t recover. At 3 P.M., we noticed a group of Indians chasing a deer on horseback on the opposite hillside. Soon after, when the deer entered the water, Capt. Lewis and three men ran down on our side and killed the deer in the water; the deer floated downstream, and the Indians retrieved it using a raft they had ready. On my return to camp, I found Drewyer, Jos., and Reuben Fields, Shields, and Gibson just arriving from the chase with five deer they had killed on the highlands toward the mountains. They also brought back two salmon trout that they had purchased from Indians they met on their way back to camp. At 5 P.M., two young men, adorned in their traditional way, came to our camp and told us that there were a lot of fat fish in Lewis’s River, and that the salmon trout our hunters brought were poor and caught in winter, not the kind that runs up in the spring. A large number of Indians came to the opposite bank and informed those on our side that the Snake Indians had come to a lodge on Lewis’s River at night. The residents, realizing this, abandoned the house. Shabono's son, a small child, is seriously ill, with his jaw and throat swollen. We applied a poultice of onions and gave him some cream of tartar, etc. This day turned out well, giving us a chance to dry our gear that had gotten a bit wet.
[Lewis, May 23, 1806]
Friday May 23rd 1806. Sergt. Pryor wounded a deer early this morning in a lick near camp; my dog pursud it into the river; the two young Indian men who had remained with us all night mounted their horses swam the river and drove the deer into the water again; Sergt. Pryor killed it as it reached the shore on this side, the indians returned as they had passed over. we directed half this deer to be given to the indians, they immediately made a fire and cooked their meat, 4 others joined them from the village with the assistance of whom they consumed their portion of the spoil in less than 2 hours and took their leave of our camp. The Creem of tartar and sulpher operated several times on the child in the course of the last night, he is considerably better this morning, tho the swelling of the neck has abated but little; we still apply polices of onions which we renew frequently in the course of the day and night. at noon we were visited by 4 indians who informed us they cad come from their village on Lewis's river at the distance of two days ride in order to see us and obtain a little eyewater, Capt. C. washed their eyes and they set out on their return to their village. our skill as phisicans and the virture of our medecines have been spread it seems to a great distance. I sincerely wish it was in our power to give releif to these poor afficted wretches. at 1 P.M. Shannon, Colter, Labuish, Cruzatte, Collins, and LaPage returned from hunting without having killed anything except a few pheasants of the dark brown kind, which they brought with them.These hunters informed us that they had hunted the country deligently between the river and Creek for some distance above and below our camp and that there was no game to be found. all the horses which have been castrated except my poor unfortunate horse appear as if they would do very well. I am convinced that those cut by the indians will get well much soonest and they do not swell nor appear to suffer as much as those cut in the common way.
Friday, May 23, 1806. Sergeant Pryor wounded a deer early this morning in a clearing near camp; my dog chased it into the river. The two young Indian men who had stayed with us all night jumped on their horses, swam across the river, and drove the deer back into the water. Sergeant Pryor killed it as it reached the shore on this side, and the Indians returned as they had crossed over. We decided to give half of the deer to the Indians, and they quickly made a fire and cooked their meat. Four others joined them from the village, and with their help, they ate their portion of the deer in less than two hours before leaving our camp. The cream of tartar and sulfur worked several times on the child last night; he is much better this morning, although the swelling in his neck hasn't gone down much. We're still applying onion poultices, which we replace frequently throughout the day and night. At noon, we were visited by four Indians who told us they had come from their village on Lewis's River, two days' ride away, to see us and get some eye wash. Captain C. washed their eyes, and they set out on their return to their village. It seems our skills as physicians and the effectiveness of our medicines have spread a great distance. I truly wish we could help these poor afflicted people. At 1 P.M., Shannon, Colter, Labuish, Cruzatte, Collins, and LaPage returned from hunting without having killed anything except a few dark brown pheasants, which they brought back with them. These hunters told us they had diligently searched for game between the river and the creek both above and below our camp, but found nothing. All the horses that have been castrated, except my poor unfortunate horse, seem to be doing well. I am convinced that those operated on by the Indians will heal much faster, and they do not swell or seem to suffer as much as those cut in the typical way.
[Clark, May 23, 1806]
Friday 23rd May 1806 a fair morning. Sergt. Pryor wounded a Deer at a lick near our Camp and our dog prosued it into the river. two Indians which happened to be at our Camp Mounted their horses and Swam across the river chased the deer into the water again and pursued it across to the Side on which we were, and as the Deer Came out of the Water Sgt. Pryor killed it. we derected half of this deer to be given to those two indians. they imediately made a fire and Cooked the meat. 4 others joined them from the Village and they Soon consumed their portion. The Child is Something better this morning than it was last night. we apply a fresh poltice of the wild Onion which we repeeted twice in the Course of the day. the Swelling does not appear to increas any Since yesterday. The 4 Indians who visited us to day informed us that they Came from their village on Lewis's river two days ride from this place for the purpose of Seeing of us and getting a little eye water I washed their eyes with Some eyewater and they all left us at 2 P.M. and returned to the Villages on the opposit Side of this river. at 1 oClock Shannon, Colter, Labiech, Crusatt Lapage and Collins all returned from hunting without haveing killed any thing except a fiew heath hens & black Pheasants two of which they brought with them. Labiech also brought a whisteling squerel which he had killed on it's hole in the high plains. this squerel differs from those on the Missouri in their Colour, Size, food and the length tal and from those found near the falls of Columbia
Friday, May 23, 1806, was a nice morning. Sergeant Pryor wounded a deer at a salt lick near our camp, and our dog chased it into the river. Two Indians who happened to be at our camp mounted their horses and swam across the river, chasing the deer back into the water and pursuing it to our side. As the deer came out of the water, Sergeant Pryor killed it. We arranged for half of the deer to be given to those two Indians. They quickly made a fire and cooked the meat. Four others joined them from the village, and they soon finished their share. The child is doing a bit better this morning than it was last night. We applied a fresh poultice of wild onion, repeating it twice during the day. The swelling doesn't seem to have increased since yesterday. The four Indians who visited us today told us they came from their village on Lewis's River, a two-day ride from here, to see us and get a little eye wash. I washed their eyes with some eyewater, and they all left us at 2 P.M. to return to their village on the opposite side of the river. At 1 o'clock, Shannon, Colter, Labiech, Crusatt, Lapage, and Collins all returned from hunting without having killed anything except a few heath hens and black pheasants, two of which they brought back. Labiech also brought a whistling squirrel that he had killed in its burrow on the high plains. This squirrel differs from those in Missouri in color, size, diet, and tail length, as well as from those found near the falls of Columbia.
Our hunters brought us a large hooting owl which differ from those of the atlantic States. The plumage of this owl is an uniform mixture of dark yellowish brown and white, in which the dark brown prodominates. it's Colour may be properly termed a dark Iron gray. the plumage is very long and remarkably Silky and Soft. those have not the long feathers on the head which give it the appearance of ears, or horns, remarkable large eyes
Our hunters brought us a large hooting owl that’s different from those in the Atlantic States. The feathers of this owl are a consistent mix of dark yellowish-brown and white, with dark brown dominating. Its color can be accurately described as dark iron gray. The feathers are very long and exceptionally silky and soft. It doesn’t have the long feathers on its head that make it look like it has ears or horns, and it has strikingly large eyes.
the hunters informed us that they had hunted with great industry all the Country between the river and for Some distance above and below without the Smallest Chance of killing any game. they inform us that the high lands are very cold with snow which has fallen for every day or night for Several past. our horses which was Cut is like to doe well.
The hunters told us they had worked hard hunting throughout the area between the river and some distance above and below, but without any luck in finding game. They said the highlands are very cold, with snow falling every day or night for several days now. Our horse that was injured seems to be doing well.
[Lewis, May 24, 1806]
Saturday May 24th 1806. The child was very wrestless last night; it's jaw and the back of it's neck are much more swolen than they were yesterday tho his fever has abated considerably. we gave it a doze of creem of tartar and applyed a fresh poltice of onions. we ordered some of the hunters out this morning and directed them to pass Collins's creek if possible and hunt towards the quawmash feilds. William Bratton still continues very unwell; he eats heartily digests his food well, and his recovered his flesh almost perfectly yet is so weak in the loins that he is scarcely able to walk nor can he set upwright but with the greatest pain. we have tryed every remidy which our engenuity could devise, or with which our stock of medicines furnished us, without effect. John Sheilds observed that he had seen men in a similar situation restored by violent sweats. Bratton requested that he might be sweated in the manner proposed by Sheilds to which we consented. Sheilds sunk a circular hole of 3 feet diamiter and four feet deep in the earth. he kindled a large fire in the hole and heated well, after which the fire was taken out a seat placed in the center of the hole for the patient with a board at bottom for his feet to rest on; some hoops of willow poles were bent in an arch crossing each other over the hole, on these several blankets were thrown forming a secure and thick orning of about 3 feet high. the patient being striped naked was seated under this orning in the hole and the blankets well secured on every side. the patient was furnished with a vessell of water which he sprinkles on the bottom and sides of the hole and by that means creates as much steam or vapor as he could possibly bear, in this situation he was kept about 20 minutes after which he was taken out and suddonly plunged in cold water twise and was then immediately returned to the sweat hole where he was continued three quarters of an hour longer then taken out covered up in several blankets and suffered to cool gradually. during the time of his being in the sweat hole, he drank copious draughts of a strong tea of horse mint. Sheilds says that he had previously seen the tea of Sinnecca snake root used in stead of the mint which was now employed for the want of the other which is not be found in this country.—this experiment was made yesterday; Bratton feels himself much better and is walking about today and says he is nearly free from pain.—at 11 A.M. a canoe arrived with 3 of the natives one of them the sick man of whom I have before made mentions as having lost the power of his limbs. he is a cheif of considerable note among them and they seem extreemly anxious for his recovery. as he complains of no pain in any particular part we conceive it cannot be the rheumatism, nor do we suppose that it can be a parelitic attack or his limbs would have been more deminished. we have supposed that it was some disorder which owed it's origine to a diet of particular roots perhaps and such as we have never before witnessed. while at the village of the broken arm we had recommended a diet of fish or flesh for this man and the cold bath every morning. we had also given him a few dozes of creem of tarter and flour of sulpher to be repeated every 3rd day. this poor wretch thinks that he feels himself of somewhat better but to me there appears to be no visible alteration. we are at a loss what to do for this unfortunate man. we gave him a few drops of Laudanum and a little portable soup. 4 of our party pased the river and visited the lodge of the broken Arm for the purpose of traiding some awls which they had made of the links of small chain belonging to one of their steel traps, for some roots. they returned in the evening having been very successfull, they had obtained a good supply of roots and bread of cows.—this day has proved warmer than any of the preceeding since we have arrived here.
Saturday, May 24th, 1806. The child was very restless last night; its jaw and the back of its neck are much more swollen than they were yesterday, although its fever has gone down considerably. We gave it a dose of cream of tartar and applied a fresh poultice of onions. We sent some of the hunters out this morning and told them to cross Collins's Creek if possible and hunt towards the quawmash fields. William Bratton is still very unwell; he eats well, digests his food properly, and has almost fully regained his strength, yet he is so weak in the lower back that he can hardly walk and cannot sit up straight without a lot of pain. We've tried every remedy our ingenuity could come up with, or that our stock of medicines provided, without success. John Shields noted that he had seen men in similar situations recover through violent sweating. Bratton asked to be sweated as Shields suggested, and we agreed. Shields dug a circular hole three feet wide and four feet deep in the ground. He built a large fire in the hole and heated it thoroughly; after that, the fire was removed, and a seat was placed in the center of the hole for the patient, with a board underneath for his feet to rest on. Several hoops made from willow branches were bent in an arch across the hole, and blankets were thrown over them to create a secure and thick covering about three feet high. The patient, stripped naked, was seated under this covering in the hole with the blankets secured all around. He was given a vessel of water which he sprinkled on the bottom and sides of the hole to create as much steam or vapor as he could handle; he stayed in this situation for about 20 minutes, after which he was taken out and suddenly plunged into cold water twice, then immediately returned to the sweat hole for another three quarters of an hour. He was then taken out, wrapped in several blankets, and allowed to cool down gradually. During his time in the sweat hole, he drank large quantities of a strong tea made from horse mint. Shields mentioned that he had previously seen tea made from Seneca snake root used instead of the mint now being used since the other couldn't be found in this area. This experiment was conducted yesterday; Bratton feels much better today and is walking around, saying he is nearly free from pain. At 11 A.M., a canoe arrived with three of the locals, one of whom is the sick man I mentioned earlier who had lost the use of his limbs. He is a notable chief among them, and they seem extremely concerned for his recovery. Since he doesn't complain of pain in any specific part, we think it can't be rheumatism, nor do we believe it to be a paralytic attack, or else his limbs would be more affected. We suspect it is some disorder related to a diet of specific roots, perhaps something we've never seen before. While at the village of the Broken Arm, we recommended a diet of fish or meat for this man and a cold bath every morning. We also gave him a few doses of cream of tartar and flour of sulfur to be repeated every third day. This poor man thinks he feels somewhat better, but to me, there seems to be no visible change. We are at a loss about what to do for this unfortunate man. We gave him a few drops of laudanum and some portable soup. Four members of our party crossed the river and visited the lodge of the Broken Arm to trade some awls they made from the links of small chain from one of their steel traps for some roots. They returned in the evening having been very successful, obtaining a good supply of roots and bread made from cows. Today has been warmer than any of the previous days since we arrived here.
[Clark, May 24, 1806]
Saturday 24th May 1806 a fine morning the Child was very restless last night its jaw and back of its neck is much more Swelled than it was yesterday. I gave it a dost of Creme of Tarter and a fresh Poltice of Onions. ordered Shields, Gibson, Drewyer, Crusat, Collins, and Jo. & rubin Fields to turn out hunting and if possible Cross Collins Creek and hunt towards the quar mash fields. W. Brattin is yet very low he eats hartily but he is So weak in the Small of his back that he Can't walk. we have made use of every remidy to restore him without it's haveing the desired effect. one of our party, John Shields observed that he had Seen men in Similar Situations restored by Violent Swets. and bratten requested that he might be Swetted in the way Sheilds purposed which we agreed to. Shields dug a round hole 4 feet deep & 3 feet Diamuter in which he made a large fire So as to beet the hole after which the fire was taken out a Seet placed in the hole. the patent was then Set on the Seat with a board under his feet and a can of water handed him to throw on the bottom & Sides of the hole So as to create as greate a heat as he Could bear. and the hole covered with blankets supported by hoops. after about 20 minits the patient was taken out and put in Cold water a few minits, & returned to the hole in which he was kept about 1 hour. then taken out and Covered with Several blankets, which was taken off by degrees untill he became Cool. this remedy took place yesterday and bratten is walking about to day and is much better than he has been. at 11 A.M. a canoe came down with the Indian man who had applyed for medical assistance while we lay at the broken arms village. this man I had given a fiew doses of Flower of Sulpher & Creme of Tarter and derected that he Should take the Cold bath every morning. he Conceited himself a little better than he was at that time. he had lost the use of all his limbs and his fingers are Contracted. We are at a loss to deturmine what to do for this unfortunate man. I gave him a few drops of Lodman and Some portable Supe as medisine. 4 of our men Crossed the river and went to the broken arms Village and returned in the evening with a Supply of bread and roots which they precured in exchange for Awls which were made of pieces of a chane—we were visited to day by the 2 young men who gave Capt. L. and my Self a horse each at the village. those men Stayed about two hours and returned to their village. this day proved to be very worm.
Saturday, May 24, 1806, was a nice morning. The child was very restless last night, and the swelling in its jaw and neck is much worse than yesterday. I gave it a dose of cream of tartar and a fresh onion poultice. I ordered Shields, Gibson, Drewyer, Crusat, Collins, and Jo & Rubin Fields to go out hunting and, if possible, cross Collins Creek and hunt towards the quagmash fields. W. Brattin is still very weak; he eats well but is so weak in his lower back that he can't walk. We've tried every remedy to help him without success. One of our group, John Shields, noted that he had seen men in similar situations recover from violent sweating. Brattin requested to be treated in the way Shields suggested, and we agreed. Shields dug a round hole four feet deep and three feet wide, made a big fire to heat it, then removed the fire and placed a seat in the hole. The patient was then set on the seat with a board under his feet, and a can of water was given to him so he could splash it on the bottom and sides of the hole to create as much heat as he could handle. The hole was covered with blankets supported by hoops. After about 20 minutes, the patient was taken out and briefly put in cold water, then returned to the hole for about an hour. He was taken out and covered with several blankets, which were removed gradually until he cooled down. This treatment took place yesterday, and Brattin is walking around today and feels much better than he has been. At 11 A.M., a canoe arrived with the Indian man who had requested medical assistance while we were at Broken Arms Village. I had given him a few doses of flower of sulfur and cream of tartar and advised him to take cold baths every morning. He thought he felt a little better than he did at that time. He had lost the use of all his limbs, and his fingers are contracted. We're unsure what to do for this unfortunate man. I gave him a few drops of laudanum and some portable soup as medicine. Four of our men crossed the river to Broken Arms Village and returned in the evening with a supply of bread and roots, which they obtained in exchange for awls made from pieces of chain. We were visited today by the two young men who had given Capt. L. and me a horse each at the village. They stayed for about two hours before returning to their village. It was a very warm day.
[Lewis, May 25, 1806]
Sunday May 25th 1806. It rained the greater part of last night and continued untill 6 A.M. our grass tent is impervious to the rain. the Child is more unwell than yesterday. we gave it a doze of creem of tartar which did not operate, we therefore gave it a clyster in the evening. we caused a sweat to be prepared for the indian Cheif in the same manner in which Bratton had been sweated, this we attempted but were unable to succeed, as he was unable to set up or be supported in the place. we informed the indians that we knew of no releif for him except sweating him in their sweat houses and giving him a plenty of the tea of the horsemint which we shewed them. and that this would probably nos succeed as he had been so long in his present situation. I am confident that this would be an excellent subject for electricity and much regret that I have it not in my power to supply it.—Drewyer Labuish and Cruzatte set out this morning to hunt towards the quawmash grounds if they can possibly pass Collins's Creek. Joseph and Reuben Feilds passed the river in order to hunt on the opposite side some miles above where the natives inform us that there is an abundance of bear and some deer. Goodrich visited a village about 8 ms. above on the opposite side of the river and returned in the evening; he procured but few roots, he informed us that there were but 8 persons at home; the others were either hunting, diging roots or fishing on Lewis's river. he saw several salmon in their lodges which they informed him came from that river these fish were remarkably fat and fine. Gibson and shields returned this evening having killed a Sandhill Crain only. they had wounded a female bear and a deer but got neither of them. Gibson informed me that the bear had two cubbs one of which was white and other as black as jett. four indians remained with us this evening.-
Sunday, May 25, 1806. It rained most of last night and continued until 6 A.M. Our grass tent keeps out the rain. The child is feeling worse than yesterday. We gave her a dose of cream of tartar, but it didn’t work, so we gave her an enema in the evening. We prepared a sweat for the Indian chief in the same way Bratton had been sweated, but we were unable to succeed because he couldn’t sit up or be supported in the place. We told the Indians that we had no cure for him except sweating him in their sweat houses and giving him plenty of the horse mint tea, which we showed them. However, that probably wouldn’t work since he’s been in this condition for so long. I’m confident that this would be a great case for electricity and I really wish I could provide it. —Drewyer, Labuish, and Cruzatte set out this morning to hunt towards the quawmash grounds, if they can get past Collins's Creek. Joseph and Reuben Fields crossed the river to hunt on the opposite side a few miles upstream, where the locals told us there’s plenty of bears and some deer. Goodrich visited a village about 8 miles upstream on the opposite side of the river and returned in the evening; he found only a few roots. He informed us that there were only 8 people at home; the others were either hunting, digging roots, or fishing on Lewis's River. He saw several salmon in their lodges, which they said came from that river; these fish were remarkably fat and fine. Gibson and Shields returned this evening having only killed a Sandhill Crane. They had wounded a female bear and a deer but didn’t get either of them. Gibson told me the bear had two cubs, one of which was white and the other as black as jet. Four Indians stayed with us this evening.
[Clark, May 25, 1806]
Sunday 25th May 1806 rained moderately the greater part of last night and this morning untill 6 A.M. The child is not So well to day as yesterday. I repeeted the Creem of tarter and the onion poltice. I caused a Swet to be prepared for the Indn. in the Same hole which bratten had been Sweeten in two days past Drewyer Labiech and Peter crusatt Set out hunting towards the quarmash grounds if they can cross the Creek which is between this and that place, which has been the bearrer as yet to our hunters. Jos. & R Fields crossed the river to hunt on the opposit side. Goodrich went to the 2d village to purchase roots a fiew of which he precured. he informed us that only 8 persons remained in the Village. the men were either hunting on Lewis's river fishing, & the women out digging roots. he saw Several fresh Salmon which the nativs informed him Came from Lewis's river and were fat and fine. one of our men purchased a Bear Skin of the nativs which was nearly of a Cream Coloured white. this Skin which was the Skin of an animal of the middle Size of bears together with the defferent Sizes colours &c. of those which have been killed by our hunters give me a Stronger evidence of the various Coloured bear of this country being one Species only, than any I have heretofore had. the poil of these bear were infinately longer finer & thicker than the black bear their tallons also longer & more blunt as worn by digging roots. the white redish brown and bey Coloured bear I saw together on the Missouri; the bey & Grizly have been Seen and killed together here. for these were the Colours of those which Collins killed on the 14th inst. in short it is not common to find two bear here of this Species presisely of the same colour, and if we were to attempt to distinguish them by their colours and to denomonate each colour a distinct Species we Should Soon find at least twenty. the most Strikeing difference between this Species of bear and the Common black bear are that the former are large and have longer tallens, hair, and tushes, prey more on other animals, do not lie so long or so closely in winter quarters, and will not Climb a tree, tho ever so hardly pursued. the varigated bear I believe to be the Same here with those of the Missouri but these are not so ferocious as those on the Missouri perhaps from the Circumstance of their being compeled from the scercity of game in this quarter to live more on roots and of course not so much in the habit of Seizing and debowering liveing animals. the bear here is far from being as passive as the common black bear, they have atacked and fought our hunters already but not so feircely as those of the Missouri. There are also some of the Common black bear in this neghbourhood tho no So Common as the other Species.
Sunday, May 25, 1806, it rained moderately for most of last night and this morning until 6 A.M. The child isn’t doing as well today as yesterday. I repeated the cream of tartar and the onion poultice. I had a sweet prepared for the Indian in the same hole where the bratten had been sweetened two days ago. Drewyer, Labiech, and Peter Crusatt set out hunting toward the quarmash grounds if they can cross the creek that’s between here and there, which has been a barrier for our hunters so far. Jos. & R. Fields crossed the river to hunt on the opposite side. Goodrich went to the second village to buy roots, a few of which he got. He told us that only eight people were left in the village. The men were either hunting on Lewis's River or fishing, and the women were out digging for roots. He saw several fresh salmon that the natives said came from Lewis's River and were fat and fine. One of our men bought a bear skin from the natives that was almost cream-colored. This skin, which belonged to a bear of medium size, along with the various sizes, colors, etc., of those killed by our hunters, gives me stronger evidence that the differently colored bears in this area are all one species, more than anything I've had before. The fur of these bears was infinitely longer, finer, and thicker than that of the black bear; their claws were also longer and more blunt due to digging for roots. I saw white, reddish-brown, and bay-colored bears together on the Missouri; the bay and grizzly have been seen and killed together here. These were the colors of those Collins killed on the 14th. In short, it’s uncommon to find two bears of this species that are exactly the same color here, and if we tried to distinguish them by color and name each color as a distinct species, we would soon find at least twenty. The most striking difference between this species of bear and the common black bear is that the former are larger, with longer claws, hair, and tusks; they prey more on other animals, don't hibernate as long or as closely in winter, and won't climb trees even when heavily pursued. I believe the variegated bears here are the same as those in Missouri, but these aren’t as ferocious, perhaps because they are forced due to the scarcity of game in this area to live more on roots, and therefore aren't as used to seizing and devouring living animals. The bears here are far from being as passive as the common black bear; they have attacked and fought our hunters already, but not as fiercely as those in Missouri. There are also some common black bears in this area, though not as common as the other species.
we attempted to swet the sick indian but could not Suckceed. he was not able either to Set up or be Supported in the place prepared for him. I therefore deturmined to inform the Nativs that nothing but Sefere Swetts would restore this disabled man, and even that doubtfull in his present Situation. in the evening Shields & gibson returned haveing killed a Sandhill Crane only. they Saw a female bear, & 2 Cubs & Several deer. they Shot the bear and a deer both of which made their escape. Gibson told me that the Cubs were of different Colours one jut black and the other of a whiteish Colour-. 4 indians Continue with us, one return to their village to daey
We tried to help the sick Indian, but we couldn’t succeed. He wasn't able to either sit up or be supported in the spot we had prepared for him. So, I decided to tell the natives that only some strong medicines could help this disabled man, and even that was questionable given his current situation. In the evening, Shields and Gibson returned having only killed a Sandhill Crane. They saw a female bear, two cubs, and several deer. They shot at the bear and a deer, but both managed to escape. Gibson told me that the cubs were different colors; one was just black and the other was a whitish color. Four Indians stayed with us, while one returned to their village today.
[Lewis, May 26, 1806]
Monday May 26th 1806. Had frequent showers in the course of the last night. Collins, Shannon and Colter set out to hunt on the high lands some distance up on the N. E. side of Collins's Creek. The Clyster given the Child last evening operated very well. it is clear of fever this evening and is much better, the swelling is considerably abated and appears as if it would pass off without coming to a head. we still continue fresh poltices of onions to the swolen part. we directed the indians in what manner to treat the dieased Cheif, gave him a few dozes of flour of sulpher and Creem of tartar & some portable soupe and directed them to take him home. they seemed unwilling to comply with the latter part of the injunction for they consumed the day and remained with us all night. at 1 P.M. Joseph and R. Feilds returned, accompanyed by Hohastillpilp several other inferior Cheifs and some young men. These hunters informed us they were unable to reach the grounds to which they had been directed in consequence of the debth and rapidity of a large creek which falls in about 10 Ms. above. they passed Commearp Creek at about 11/2 Ms. and a second creek reather larger at 3 Ms. further. at the distance of 4 Ms. up this last creek on their return they called at a village which our traders have never yet visited, here they obtained a large quantity of bread and roots of Cows on very moderate terms. we permitted Sergt. Pryor and four men to pass the river tomorrow morning with a view to visit this village we also directed Charbono York and LePage to set out early for the same place and procure us some roots. our meat is again exhausted, we therefore directed R. Fields to hunt the horse in the morning which the Indians have given us to kill. one of our men saw a salmon in the river today. in the afternoon we compleated our canoe and put her in the water; she appears to answer very well and will carry about 12 persons.—the river still rising fast and snows of the mountains visibly diminish
Monday, May 26, 1806. We had frequent showers throughout the night. Collins, Shannon, and Colter set out to hunt in the highlands a good distance up on the northeast side of Collins's Creek. The enema given to the child last evening worked very well. He is fever-free this evening and is much better; the swelling has gone down significantly and seems like it will resolve without breaking. We continue to apply fresh onion poultices to the swollen area. We instructed the Indians on how to care for the sick chief, gave him a few doses of flour of sulfur and cream of tartar, along with some portable soup, and told them to take him home. They appeared reluctant to follow that last instruction, as they spent the day and stayed with us all night. At 1 PM, Joseph and R. Fields returned, accompanied by Hohastillpilp, several other minor chiefs, and some young men. These hunters informed us they couldn't reach the designated hunting grounds due to the depth and speed of a large creek upstream about 10 miles. They crossed Commearp Creek about 1.5 miles in and a second, slightly larger creek 3 miles farther. On their return, they stopped at a village about 4 miles up this last creek, which our traders have yet to visit, where they acquired a large amount of bread and cow roots at very reasonable prices. We allowed Sergeant Pryor and four men to cross the river tomorrow morning to visit this village. We also instructed Charbono, York, and LePage to leave early for the same place to gather some roots. Our meat supply has again run out, so we directed R. Fields to hunt the horse that the Indians have given us to kill. One of our men spotted a salmon in the river today. In the afternoon, we finished our canoe and launched it; it seems to perform very well and can carry about 12 people. The river continues to rise quickly, and the mountain snow is visibly diminishing.
[Clark, May 26, 1806]
Monday 26th May 1806 Some Small Showers of rain last night, and continued Cloudy this morning untill 7 A. M when it Cleared away and became fair and worm. Collins Shannon & Colter set out to hunt on the high lands to the N E of us towards Collins Creek. The Child Something better this morning tho the Swelling yet continues. we Still apply the onion poltice. I detected what Should be done for the disabled man, gave him a fiew doses of Creem of tarter & flour Sulphur, and Some portable Supe and directed that he Should be taken home & Swetted &c. at 1 P.M. Joseph & R. Fields returned accompanied by Hoh hast ill pilt and an Second Chief and 4 men Several young men also rode down on this Side. Jo & R Fields informed us that they were at a village 4 Miles up the 2nd Creek from this place on the opposit side above at which place on the opposit side above at which place they precured roots on very reasonable terms. they Could not proceed higher up to hunt as the creeks were too high for them to Cross, &c. we gave permission to Serjt. Pryor and 4 men to cross the river and trade with nativs of the village the Field's were at yesterday for roots &c. we also directed Shabono & york to proceed on to the Same Village and precure Some roots for our Selves if possible. one of our men Saw a Salmon in the river to day. and two others eat of Salmon at the near Village which was brought from Lewis's river. our Canoe finished and put into the water. it will Carry 12 men. the riseing very fast and Snow appear to melt on the Mountains.
Monday, May 26, 1806 There were some light showers of rain last night, and it stayed cloudy this morning until 7 A.M., when it cleared up and became fair and warm. Collins, Shannon, and Colter set out to hunt in the highlands to the northeast of us, toward Collins Creek. The child seemed a bit better this morning, although the swelling still continues. We’re still applying the onion poultice. I figured out what needed to be done for the disabled man, gave him a few doses of cream of tartar and flour sulfur, along with some portable soup, and instructed that he should be taken home and sweated, etc. At 1 P.M., Joseph and R. Fields returned, accompanied by Hoh hast ill pilt, a second chief, and four men. Several young men also rode down on this side. Jo and R. Fields informed us that they were at a village four miles up the second creek from here on the opposite side, where they procured roots at very reasonable prices. They couldn't go further to hunt because the creeks were too high for them to cross. We gave Sergeant Pryor and four men permission to cross the river and trade with the natives in the village where the Fields were yesterday for roots, etc. We also instructed Shabono and York to proceed to the same village and procure some roots for ourselves if possible. One of our men saw a salmon in the river today, and two others had salmon at the nearby village, which came from Lewis's River. Our canoe is finished and now in the water; it can carry 12 men. The water is rising very fast, and it looks like the snow is melting on the mountains.
[Lewis, May 27, 1806]
Tuesday May 27th 1806. Early this morning we sent Reubin Fields in surch of the horse which the indians had given us to kill. at 10 in the morning he returned with the horse and we killed and butchered him; he was large and in good order. Hohastillpilp told us that most of the horses we saw runing at large in this neighbourhood belonged to himself and his people, and whenever we were in want of meat he requested that we would kill any of them we wished; this is a peice of liberallity which would do honour to such as host of civilization; indeed I doubt whether there are not a great number of our countrymen who would see us fast many days before their compassion would excite them to a similar act of liberallity. Sergt. Pryor and the party ordered to the indian Village set out early this morning. in the evening he returned with Gibson and Sheilds. the others remained at the village all night; they brought a good store of roots and bread. we also sent Sergt. ordway and 2 men this morning over to Lewis's river for salmon, which the indians inform us may be procured in abundance at that place, and that it is but half a days ride, nearly south.—Drewyer, Cruzatte, and Labuish returned at 4 P.M. with five deer which they had killed at some distance up Collins's Creek on this side; that stream still continues so high that they could not pass it.—Charbono's son is much better today, tho the swelling on the side of his neck I beleive will terminate in an ugly imposthume a little below the ear. the indians were so anxious that the sick Cheif should be sweated under our inspection that they requested we would make a second attept today; accordingly the hole was somewhat enlarged and his father a very good looking old man, went into the hole with him and sustained him in a proper position during the operation; we could not make him sweat as copiously as we wished. after the operation he complained of considerable pain, we gave him 30 drops of laudanum which soon composed him and he rested very well.—this is at least a strong mark of parental affection. they all appear extreemly attentive to this sick man nor do they appear to relax in their asceduity towards him notwithstand he has been sick and helpless upwards of three years. the Chopunnish appear to be very attentive and kind to their aged people and treat their women with more rispect than the nations of the Missouri.—There is a speceis of Burrowing squirrel common in these plains which in their habits somewhat resemble those of the missouri but are a distinct speceis. this little animal measures one fot five and 1/2 inches from the nose to the extremity of the tail, of which the tail occupys 21/4 inches only; in the girth it is 11 In. the body is proportionably long, the neck and legs short; the ears are short, obtusely pointed, and lie close to the head; the aperture of the ear is larger proportionably than most animals which burrow. the eyes are of moderate size, the puple black and iris of a dark sooty brown. the teeth are like those of the squirrel as is it's whole contour. the whiskers are full, long and black; it also has some long black hairs above the eyes. it has five toes on each foot; the two inner toes of the fore feet are remarkably short, and have short blont nails. the remaining toes on those feet are long, black, slightly curved, and sharply pointed. the outer and inner toes of the hind feet are not short yet they are by no means as long as the three toes in the center of the foot which are remarkably long but the nails are not as long as those of the fore feet tho of the same form and colour. the hair of the tail tho of the same form and colour. the hair of the tail tho thickly inserted on every part rispects the two sides only. this gives it a flat appearance and a long ovol form. the tips of the hair which form the outer edges of the tail are white. the base of the hairs are either black or a fox red. the under disk of the tail is an iron grey, the upper a redish brown. the lower part of the jaws, under part of the neck, legs and feet from the body down and belley are of a light brick red. the nose as high as the eyes is of a darker brick red. the upper part of the head neck and body are of a curious brownish grey colour with a cast of the brick red. the longer hair of these parts being of a redish white colour at their extremities, fall together in such manner as to give it the appearance of being speckled at a little distance. these animals form large ascociations as those of the Missouri, occupying with their burroughs one or sometimes 200 acres of land. the burrows are seperate and are each occupyed perhaps by ten or 12 of those animals. there is a little mound in front of the hole formed of the earth thrown out of the burrow and frequently there are three or four distinct holes forming what I term one burrow with their mouths arround the base of this little mound which seems to be occupyed as a watch-tower in common by the inhabitants of those several holes. these mounds are sometimes as much as 2 feet high and 4 feet in diameter, and are irregularly distributed over the tract they occupy at the distance of from ten to thirty or 40 yds. when you approach a burrow the squirrels, one or more, usually set erect on these mounds and make a kind of shrill whistleing nois, something like tweet, tweet, tweet, &c. they do not live on grass as those of the missouri but on roots. one which I examined had in his mouth two small bulbs of a speceis of grass, which resemble very much what is sometimes called the grassnut. the intestins of those little animals are remarkably large for it's size. fur short and very fine.—the grass in their villages is not cut down as in those of the plains of the missouri. I preserved the skins of several of these animals with the heads feet and legs entire. The Black woodpecker which I have frequently mentioned and which is found in most parts of the roky Mountains as well as the Western and S. W. mountains. I had never an opportunity of examining untill a few days since when we killed and preserved several of them. this bird is about the size of the lark woodpecker of the turtle dove, tho it's wings are longer than either of those birds. the beak is black, one inch long, reather wide at the base, somewhat curved, and sharply pointed; the chaps are of equal length. arround the base of the beak including the eye and a small part of the throat is of a fine crimson red. the neck and as low as the croop in front is of an iron grey. the belly and breast is a curious mixture of white and blood reed which has much the appearance of having been artifically painted or stained of that colour. the red reather predominates. the top of the head back, sides, upper surface of the wings and tail are black, with a gossey tint of green in a certain exposure to the light. the under side of the wings and tail are of a sooty black. it has ten feathers in the tail, sharply pointed, and those in the center reather longest, being 21/2 inches in length. the tongue is barbed, pointed, and of an elastic cartelaginous substance. the eye is moderately large, puple black and iris of a dark yellowish brown. this bird in it's actions when flying resembles the small redheaded woodpecke common to the Atlantic states; it's note also somewhat resembles that bird. the pointed tail seems to assist it in seting with more eas or retaining it its resting position against the perpendicular side of a tree. the legs and feet are black and covered with wide imbricated scales. it has four toes on each foot of which two are in rear and two in front; the nails are much curved long and remarkably keen or sharply pointed. it feeds on bugs worms and a variety of insects.
Tuesday, May 27, 1806. Early this morning, we sent Reubin Fields to search for the horse that the Indians had given us to kill. At 10 AM, he returned with the horse, and we killed and butchered it; he was large and in good condition. Hohastillpilp told us that most of the horses we saw roaming in this area belonged to him and his people, and whenever we needed meat, he requested that we kill any of them we wanted; this is a gesture of generosity that would honor even the most civilized hosts. Indeed, I doubt there are many of our countrymen who would allow us to go hungry for days before their compassion would prompt them to a similar act of generosity. Sergeant Pryor and the group assigned to the Indian village set out early this morning. In the evening, he returned with Gibson and Shields. The others stayed at the village overnight; they brought back a good supply of roots and bread. We also sent Sergeant Ordway and two men this morning over to Lewis's river for salmon, which the Indians informed us can be found in abundance there, and it is only half a day's ride nearly south. Drewyer, Cruzatte, and Labuish returned at 4 PM with five deer they had killed some distance up Collins's Creek on this side; that stream is still too high for them to cross. Charbono's son is much better today, though the swelling on the side of his neck will likely result in an ugly abscess just below the ear. The Indians were so eager for the sick Chief to be sweated under our supervision that they requested we attempt it a second time today; accordingly, the hole was somewhat enlarged, and his father, a very good-looking old man, went into the hole with him to support him in the correct position during the procedure; we couldn't make him sweat as much as we had hoped. After the operation, he complained of considerable pain; we gave him 30 drops of laudanum, which soon calmed him, and he rested very well. This is at least a strong sign of parental affection. They all seem extremely attentive to this sick man, and they do not appear to relax in their care for him, even though he has been sick and helpless for over three years. The Chopunnish seem to be very kind and attentive to their elderly and treat their women with more respect than the nations of the Missouri. There is a type of burrowing squirrel common in these plains that somewhat resembles those of Missouri but is a distinct species. This little animal measures one foot five and a half inches from the nose to the end of the tail, of which the tail is only two and a quarter inches long; in circumference, it is 11 inches. The body is proportionally long, with a short neck and legs; the ears are short, round-tipped, and lie close to the head; the ear opening is relatively larger than most burrowing animals. The eyes are of moderate size, with a black pupil and a dark sooty brown iris. Its teeth resemble those of a squirrel, as does its overall shape. The whiskers are full, long, and black; it also has some long black hairs above the eyes. It has five toes on each foot; the two inner toes of the front feet are remarkably short with short blunt nails. The other toes on those feet are long, black, slightly curved, and sharply pointed. The outer and inner toes of the hind feet are not short, but they are not as long as the three toes in the center, which are unusually long; however, the nails are not as long as those on the front feet, but have the same shape and color. The tail's hair, while thickly inserted on all parts, respects only the two sides. This gives it a flat appearance and a long oval shape. The ends of the hair that forms the outer edges of the tail are white. The base of the hairs is either black or fox red. The underside of the tail is iron grey, while the top is reddish brown. The lower part of the jaws, the underside of the neck, legs and feet from the body down, and the belly are a light brick red. The nose, up to the eyes, is a darker brick red. The upper part of the head, neck, and body are a curious brownish-grey color with a tinge of brick red. The longer hair in these areas is reddish-white at the ends, falling together in such a way as to appear speckled at a distance. These animals form large groups like those in Missouri, occupying with their burrows one or sometimes 200 acres of land. The burrows are separate and each may be occupied by perhaps ten or twelve of these animals. There is a little mound in front of the hole formed from the earth thrown out of the burrow, and often there are three or four distinct holes forming what I call one burrow, with their openings around the base of this little mound, which seems to be used as a watchtower by the inhabitants of those several holes. These mounds can sometimes be two feet high and four feet in diameter and are irregularly distributed over the area they occupy at distances ranging from ten to thirty or forty yards. When you approach a burrow, one or more squirrels usually stand erect on these mounds and make a kind of shrill whistling noise, something like "tweet, tweet, tweet," etc. They do not eat grass like those in Missouri, but feed on roots. One I examined had two small bulbs of a type of grass in its mouth, which closely resembles what is sometimes called a grass nut. The intestines of these little animals are unusually large for their size, the fur is short and very fine. The grass in their villages is not cut down as it is in the plains of Missouri. I preserved the skins of several of these animals with the heads, feet, and legs intact. The black woodpecker, which I have often mentioned and which is found in most parts of the Rocky Mountains as well as the Western and Southwest mountains, I had never had the chance to examine until a few days ago when we killed and preserved several of them. This bird is about the size of the lark woodpecker or a turtle dove, although its wings are longer than either of those birds. The beak is black, one inch long, rather wide at the base, somewhat curved, and sharply pointed; the jaws are equal in length. Around the base of the beak, including the eye and a small part of the throat, is a fine crimson red. The neck and as low as the nape in front is an iron grey. The belly and breast are a curious mixture of white and blood red, which looks as if it has been artificially painted or stained that color. The red predominates. The top of the head, back, sides, upper surface of the wings, and tail are black, with a glossy green tint under certain lights. The underside of the wings and tail are a sooty black. It has ten sharply pointed feathers in the tail, with those in the center being the longest, measuring 2.5 inches in length. The tongue is barbed, pointed, and made of an elastic cartilaginous substance. The eye is moderately large, with a black pupil and a dark yellowish-brown iris. This bird, in its flying actions, resembles the small red-headed woodpecker common in the Atlantic states; its call also somewhat resembles that bird. The pointed tail seems to help it settle more easily and hold its position against the perpendicular side of a tree. The legs and feet are black and covered with wide overlapping scales. It has four toes on each foot, with two in the back and two in front; the nails are long, very curved, and remarkably sharp or pointed. It feeds on bugs, worms, and a variety of insects.
[Clark, May 27, 1806]
Tuesday 27th May 1806 A cloudy morning Serjt. Pryor and party Set out at 7 A.M. Serjt. Ordway and two men are ordered to cross this river and proceed on through the plains to Lewis's and precure Some Salmon on that river, and return tomorrow if possible he Set out at 8 A.M. we Sent Rub. Field in Serch of the horse which the indians had given us to kill. at 10 A. M he returned with the horse and he was killed and butchered; he was large and in good order. hohastillpilp told us that most of the horses which we Saw running in those plains in this neighbourhood at large belonged to himself and his people, and whenever we were in want of meet, he requested that would kill any of them we wished; this is a piece of liberallity which would do honour to Such as host of civilization. Serjt. Pryor, Gibson & Shields returned from the Village with a good Stock of roots and bread. Shabono Lapage & Yourk whome we had Sent to purchase roots for ourselves remained at the Village all night. Drewyer, Labiech & Crusat return at 4 P.M. with 5 Deer which they had killed at Some distance up Collin's Creek on this Side, that Stream Still continue So high that they could not pass it.
Tuesday, May 27, 1806 A cloudy morning. Sergeant Pryor and his group set out at 7 A.M. Sergeant Ordway and two men were ordered to cross this river and continue through the plains to Lewis's to get some salmon from that river and return tomorrow if possible. He left at 8 A.M. We sent Rub. Field to search for the horse that the Indians had given us to kill. At 10 A.M., he came back with the horse, which was killed and butchered; it was large and in good condition. Hohastillpilp told us that most of the horses we saw running in the nearby plains belonged to him and his people, and whenever we needed meat, he encouraged us to kill any of them we wanted. This generosity would do honor to any civilized host. Sergeant Pryor, Gibson, and Shields returned from the village with a good supply of roots and bread. Shabono Lapage and Yourk, whom we sent to buy roots for ourselves, stayed at the village all night. Drewyer, Labiech, and Crusat returned at 4 P.M. with five deer they had killed some distance up Collins Creek on this side; that stream continued to be too high for them to cross.
Shabono's child is much better to day; tho the Swelling on the Side of his neck I believe will termonate in an ugly imposthume a little below the ear. The Indians were so anxious that the Sick Chief (who has lost the use of his limbs) Should be Sweted under our inspection they requested me to make a 2d attempt to day; accordingly the hole was enlargened and his father a very good looking old man performed all the drugery &c. we could not make him Swet as copously as we wished. being compelled to keep him erect in the hole by means of Cords. after the oppiration he complained of Considerable pain, I gave him 30 drops of Laudnom which Soon composed him and he rested very well-. I observe the Strongest marks of parental affection. they all appear extreemly attentive to this Sick man, no do they appear to relax in their ascituity towards him not withstanding he has been Sick and helpless for near 5 years. The Chopunnish appeare to be very attentive & kind to their aged people and treat their women with more respect than the nativs on the Missouri.
Shabono's child is much better today; however, the swelling on the side of his neck will likely turn into an ugly abscess just below the ear. The Indians were so anxious that the sick chief (who has lost the use of his limbs) should sweat under our supervision that they asked me to make a second attempt today. Accordingly, the hole was enlarged, and his father, a very good-looking old man, handled all the hard work, etc. We couldn't make him sweat as much as we wanted, as we had to keep him upright in the hole using cords. After the procedure, he complained of considerable pain, so I gave him 30 drops of laudanum, which soon calmed him down, and he rested well. I can see strong signs of parental affection. They all seem extremely attentive to this sick man, and they don’t appear to lessen their efforts toward him, even though he has been sick and helpless for nearly five years. The Chopunnish seem to be very caring and kind to their elderly, and they treat their women with more respect than the natives on the Missouri.
There is a Species of whistleing Squirel common in these plains which in their habit Somewhat resembles those of the Missouri but are a distinct Species. this little animale measures 1 foot 5 inches & a half from the nose to the extremity of the tail, of which the tail occupies 21/4 inches only; in the girth it is 11 inches the body is perpotionably long, the neck and legs Short; the ears are Short, obtusely pointed, and lye close to the head; the aperture of the ear is larger proportionably than most animals which burrow. the eyes are of Moderate Size, the puple black and iris of a dark dusky brown. the teeth are like those of the Squirel as is it's whole contour. the whiskers are full, long and black; it has also Some long black hars above the eye-. it has five toes on each foot; the 2 iner toes of the fore feet are remarkably Short, and have Short blunt nails. the remaining toes on these feet are long Slightly Curved, black and Sharply pointed. the outer and inner toes of the hind feet are not Short yet they are by no means as long as the three toes in the Center of the foot which are remarkably long but the nails are not as long as those of the fore feet tho of the Same form and colour. the bars of the tail tho thickly inserted on every part respects the two Sides only. this givs it a flat appearance and a long oval form. the tips of the hair which forms the outer edges of the tail are white. the bace of the hair are either black or a fox red. the under disk of the tail is an iron gray, the upper a redish brown. the lower part of the jaws, under part of the neck, legs and feet from the body down and belly are of a light brick red. the nose as high as the eyes is of a darker brick red. the upper part of the head neck and body are of a curious brownish gray colour with a cast of the brick red. the longer hairs of these parts being of a redish white colour at their extremities fall together in Such a Manner as to give it to the appearance of being Spekled at a little distance. these animals form large ascoations as those of the Missouri, occupying with their burroughs one or Sometimes 200 acres of Land. the burrows are Seperate and are each occupyed perhaps by 10 or 12 of those Animals. there is a little Mound in front of the hole formed of the earth thrown out of the burrow and frequently there are three or four distinct holes forming what I call one burrow, around the base of the mound, which Seams to be occupied as a watch tower in common by the inhabitents of those Several holes. these Mounds are Sometimes as much as 2 feet high, and 4 feet in diameter, and are irregularly distributed over the tract they occupy at the distance of from ten to 30 or forty yards. When you approach a burrow the Squirels one, or more, usially Set erect on these Mounds and make a kind of Shrill whistleing nois, Something like tweet, tweet, tweet &c. they do not live on grass as those of the Missouri but on roots. one which I examoned had in his mouth two Small bulbs of a Species of grass, which resembles very much what is Sometimes Called the Grass Nut. the intestins of these little animals are remarkably large for it's Size; fur Short and very fine. the grass in their village is not Cut down as in these of the plains of the Missouri. I preserved the Skins of Several of these animals with the heads feet and legs entire-.-. The Black Wood pecker which is found in most parts of the rocky Mountains as will as the Western and S W. mountains, I had never an oppertunity of examineing, untill a fiew days Since when we killed and preserved Several of them. this bird is about the Size of the lark woodpecker or the turtle dove, tho it's wings are longer than either of these birds. the beak is black, one inch long reather wide at the base, Somewhat cirved, and Sharply pointed; the chaps are of equal length. around the bace of the beak including the eye and a Small part of the throat is of a crimson red. the neck and as low as the croop in front is of an iron gray. the belly and breast is of a curious mixture of white and blood red which has much the appearance of haveing been artifically painted or Stained of that colour, the red reather predominates. the top of the head, back, Sides, upper Surface of the wings and tail are black, the under Side of the wings and tail are black. it has ten feathers in the tail, Sharply pointed, and those in the center reather longest, being 21/2 inches in length. the tongue is barbed, pointed, and of an elastic cartalaginous Substance. the eye is moderately large, puple black and iris of a dark yellowish brown. this bird in it's actions when flying resemble the Small redish woodpecker common to the altantic States; it's note also Somewhat resembles that bird. the pointed tail Seems to assist it in sitting with more ease or retaining it, in it's resting position against the perpendicular Side of a tree. the legs and feet are black, and covered with imbricated scales. it has four toes on each foot, of which two are in rear and two in front; the nails are much curved long and remarkably Keen or Sharply pointed. it feeds on bugs, worms and a variety of insects.-.
There’s a type of whistling squirrel that’s common in these plains, which somewhat resembles those from Missouri but is a different species. This little animal measures 1 foot 5.5 inches from the nose to the tip of the tail, with the tail itself measuring only 2.25 inches. Its girth is 11 inches, and its body is proportionally long, with a short neck and legs. The ears are short, bluntly pointed, and lie close to the head; the ear openings are larger proportionally than most burrowing animals. The eyes are of moderate size, with a black pupil and a dark brown iris. Its teeth are like those of a squirrel, and its overall shape is similar. The whiskers are full, long, and black; it also has some long black hairs above its eyes. Each foot has five toes; the two inner toes on the front feet are noticeably short and have short, blunt nails. The other toes on these feet are long, slightly curved, black, and sharply pointed. The outer and inner toes of the hind feet are not short, but they’re definitely not as long as the three toes in the center of the foot, which are very long, although the nails are not as long as those on the front feet, yet have the same shape and color. The tail has thick fur throughout its length, creating a flat and oval appearance. The tips of the hair on the outer edge of the tail are white, while the bases of the hairs are either black or a reddish fox color. The underside of the tail is iron gray, and the top is reddish brown. The lower parts of the jaw, neck, legs, feet, and belly are a light brick red. The nose, from the eyes up, is a darker brick red. The upper part of the head, neck, and body are a unique brownish-gray with a hint of brick red. The longer hairs in these areas have reddish-white tips, falling together to give a speckled appearance from a distance. These animals form large colonies similar to those in Missouri, occupying one or sometimes 200 acres of land with their burrows. The burrows are separate, with each one possibly housing around 10 to 12 of these animals. There’s often a small mound in front of the hole made from the earth thrown out, and there are frequently three or four distinct holes that form what I call one burrow, surrounding the mound which seems to serve as a common watchtower for the inhabitants of the several holes. These mounds can be as tall as 2 feet and 4 feet in diameter, and they’re scattered irregularly across the area they occupy, with distances ranging from ten to thirty or forty yards apart. When you approach a burrow, one or more squirrels typically sit upright on these mounds and make a shrill whistling noise, something like “tweet, tweet, tweet,” etc. They don’t feed on grass like those in Missouri but rather on roots. One I examined had two small bulbs of a type of grass in its mouth that closely resembled what is sometimes called the grass nut. The intestines of these little animals are surprisingly large for their size, with fur that is short and very fine. The grass in their area isn't cut down like it is in the Missouri plains. I preserved the skins of several of these animals, including the heads, feet, and legs intact. The black woodpecker, found in most parts of the Rocky Mountains as well as the western and southwestern mountains, I hadn’t had the chance to examine until a few days ago when we killed and preserved several of them. This bird is about the size of a lark woodpecker or a turtle dove, though its wings are longer than either of these birds. The beak is black, an inch long, rather wide at the base, somewhat curved, and sharply pointed, with the upper and lower parts equal in length. Around the base of the beak, including the eye and a small portion of the throat, is a crimson red. The neck and part of the body down to the rump are iron gray. The belly and breast show a curious mixture of white and blood red, appearing almost as if painted or stained that color, with the red being more dominant. The top of the head, back, sides, upper surfaces of the wings, and tail are black; the underside of the wings and tail is also black. There are ten sharply pointed feathers in the tail, with the center feathers being the longest at 2.5 inches. The tongue is barbed, pointed, and made of an elastic cartilaginous material. The eye is moderately large, with a black pupil and a dark yellowish-brown iris. This bird’s flight behavior resembles that of the small reddish woodpecker common in the eastern states; its calls are somewhat similar as well. The pointed tail seems to help it balance more easily when resting against the vertical side of a tree. Its legs and feet are black and covered with scaly imbricated skin. It has four toes on each foot, two facing backward and two forward; the nails are long, sharply pointed, and highly curved. It feeds on bugs, worms, and a variety of insects.
[Lewis, May 28, 1806]
Wednesday May 28th 1806. We sent Goodrich to the village of the broken arm this morning he returned in the evening with some roots bread and a parsel of goats-hair for making our saddle pads. Reubin and Joseph Feilds set out this morning to hunt high up on a creek which discharges itself into this river about 8 miles above us. at Noon Charbono, York and Lapage returned; they had obtained four bags of the dryed roots of Cows and some bread. in the evening Collins Shannon and Colter returned with eight deer. they had fortunately discovered a ford on Collins's Creek where they were enabled to pass it with their horses and had hunted at the quawmash ground where we first met with the Chopunnish last fall. deer were very abundant they informed us, but there were not many bear. The sick Cheif was much better this morning he can use his hands and arms and seems much pleased with the prospect of recovering, he says he feels much better than he has for a great number of months. I sincerely wish these sweats may restore him; we have consented that he should still remain with us and repeat these sweats. he set up a great proportion of the day.—The Child is also better, he is free of fever, the imposthume is not so large but seems to be advancing to maturity.- since my arrival here I have killed several birds of the corvus genus of a kind found only in the rocky mountains and their neighbourhood. I first met with this bird above the three forks of the Missouri and saw them on the hights of the rocky Mountains but never before had an opportunity of examining them closely. the small corvus discribed at Fort Clatsop is a different speceis, tho untill now I had taken it to be the same, this is much larger and has a loud squawling note something like the mewing of a cat. the beak of this bird is 11/2 inches long, is proportionably large, black and of the form which characterizes this genus. the upper exceeds the under chap a little. the head and neck are also proportionably large. the eye full and reather prominent, the iris dark brown and puple black. it is about the size and somewhat the form of the Jaybird tho reather rounder or more full in the body. the tail is four and a half inches in length, composed of 12 feathers nearly of the same length. the head neck and body of this bird are of a dove colour. the wings are black except the extremities of six large fathers ocupying the middle joint of the wing which are white. the under disk of the wing is not of the shining or grossy black which marks it's upper surface. the two feathers in the center of the tail are black as are the two adjacent feathers for half their width the ballance are of a pure white. the feet and legs are black and imbricated with wide scales. the nails are black and remarkably long and sharp, also much curved. it has four toes on each foot of which one is in the rear and three in front. the toes are long particularly that in the rear. this bird feeds on the seed of the pine and also on insects. it resides in the rocky mountains at all seasons of the year, and in many parts is the only bird to be found.—our hunters brought us a large hooting Owl which differs considerably from those of the Atlantic States which are also common here. the plumage of this owl is an uniform mixture of dark yellowish brown and white, in which the dark brown predominates. it's colour may be properly termed a dark iron grey. the plumage is very long and remarkably silky and soft. these have not the long feathers on the head which give it the appearance of ears or horns. the leathers of the head are long narrow and closely set, they rise upwright nearly to the extremity and then are bent back sudonly as iff curled. a kind of ruff of these feathers incircle the thoat. the head has a flat appearance being broadest before and behind and is 1 foot 10 Is. in circumference. incircling the eyes and extending from them like rays from the center a tissue of open hairy long feathers are placed of a light grey colour, these conceal the ears which are very large and are placed close to the eyes behind and extending below them. these feathers meet over the beak which they nearly conceal and form the face of the owl. they eyes are remarkably large and prominant, the iris of a pale goald colour and iris circular and of a deep sea green. the beak is short and wide at it's base. the upper chap is much curved at the extremity and comes down over and in front of the under chap. this bird is about the size of the largest hooting Owl. the tail is composed of eleven feathers, of which those in the center are reather the longest. it is booted to the extremity of the toes, of which it has four on each foot, one in the rear one on the outer side and two in front. the toes are short particularly that in rear, but are all armed with long keen curved nails of a dark brown colour. the beak is white and nostrils circular large and unconnected. the habits and the note of this owl is much that of the common large hooting owl.
Wednesday, May 28, 1806. We sent Goodrich to the village of the broken arm this morning, and he returned in the evening with some roots, bread, and a bundle of goats' hair for making our saddle pads. Reubin and Joseph Feilds set out this morning to hunt high up on a creek that flows into this river about 8 miles above us. At noon, Charbono, York, and Lapage returned; they had obtained four bags of dried roots of cows and some bread. In the evening, Collins, Shannon, and Colter came back with eight deer. They had luckily found a ford on Collins's Creek that allowed them to cross with their horses and had hunted at the quawmash ground where we first met the Chopunnish last fall. They informed us that deer were very abundant, but there weren't many bears. The sick chief was much better this morning; he can use his hands and arms and seems pleased with the prospect of recovering. He says he feels better than he has for many months. I sincerely hope these sweats restore him; we have agreed that he should stay with us and continue these sweats. He sat up for a good portion of the day. The child is also better; he is free of fever, the abscess is not as large, but seems to be maturing. Since my arrival here, I have killed several birds of the corvus genus found only in the Rocky Mountains and their surroundings. I first encountered this bird above the three forks of the Missouri and saw them on the heights of the Rocky Mountains, but I never had the chance to examine them closely until now. The small corvus mentioned at Fort Clatsop is a different species, though until now I thought they were the same. This one is much larger and has a loud squawking call, somewhat like a cat's meow. The beak of this bird is 1.5 inches long, proportionately large, black, and shaped as characteristic of this genus. The upper part is slightly larger than the lower. The head and neck are also proportionately large. The eye is full and somewhat prominent, with a dark brown iris and black pupil. It is about the size and somewhat the shape of a jaybird, though rounder and fuller in the body. The tail is four and a half inches long, made up of 12 feathers nearly the same length. The head, neck, and body of this bird are a dove color. The wings are black, except for the tips of six large feathers in the middle joint, which are white. The underside of the wing doesn't have the shiny or glossy black that marks its upper surface. The two central feathers of the tail are black, as are the two adjacent feathers for half their width, while the rest are pure white. The feet and legs are black and covered with wide scales. The nails are black, remarkably long, sharp, and quite curved. It has four toes on each foot, with one in the back and three in front. The toes are long, especially the one in the back. This bird feeds on pine seeds and insects. It resides in the Rocky Mountains year-round and is often the only bird found in many parts. Our hunters also brought us a large hooting owl, which differs significantly from those found in the Atlantic States, which are also common here. The owl's plumage is a uniform mix of dark yellowish-brown and white, with the dark brown predominating. Its color could be described as a dark iron gray. The plumage is very long and remarkably silky and soft. This owl lacks the long feathers on its head that give it the appearance of having ears or horns. The feathers on the head are long, narrow, and closely spaced; they stand upright nearly to the tips and then suddenly bend back as if curled. A sort of ruff of these feathers circles the throat. The head has a flat appearance, being widest at the front and back, and measures 1 foot 10 inches in circumference. Surrounding the eyes and extending from them like rays from the center are a series of long, light gray, hairy feathers that conceal the large ears, which are positioned close to the eyes and extend below them. These feathers meet over the beak, which they nearly cover, forming the face of the owl. Its eyes are notably large and prominent, with a pale gold iris and a deep sea green pupil. The beak is short and wide at its base, with the upper part being much curved at the tip, coming down over and in front of the lower part. This bird is about the size of the largest hooting owl. Its tail consists of eleven feathers, with the central ones being the longest. It has feathers extending to the tips of the toes, of which there are four on each foot—one in the back, one on the outer side, and two in front. The toes are short, particularly the one in the back, but all are armed with long, sharp, curved nails of dark brown. The beak is white, with large, circular nostrils that are unconnected. The habits and calls of this owl are similar to those of the common large hooting owl.
[Clark, May 28, 1806]
Wednesday May 28th 1806 We sent Goodrich to the Village of the broken Arm for hair to Stuff Saddle pads. Jo. & R. Fields Set out this morning to hunt towards the mountains. at noon Shabono York and Lapage returned. they had obtained 4 bags of the dried roots of Cowse and Some bread. in the evening Collins, Shannon & Cotter returned with 8 deer. they fortunately discovered a ford on Collin's Creek where they were enable to pass it with there horses and had hunted at the quawmash Grounds where we first met with the Chopunnish last fall. deer were verry abundant they informed us, but there was not many bear. The Sick Chief is much better this morning he can use his hands and arms and Seems much pleased with the prospects of recovering, he Says he feels much better than he has done for a great Number of Months. I Sincerly wish that the Swetts may restore him. I have Consented to repeet the Sweets.
Wednesday, May 28th, 1806 We sent Goodrich to the Village of the Broken Arm for hair to stuff saddle pads. Jo. & R. Fields set out this morning to hunt towards the mountains. At noon, Shabono, York, and Lapage returned. They had obtained 4 bags of dried cowse roots and some bread. In the evening, Collins, Shannon, and Cotter returned with 8 deer. They fortunately discovered a ford on Collin's Creek where they were able to cross with their horses and had hunted at the quawmash grounds where we first met the Chopunnish last fall. They informed us that deer were very abundant, but there weren't many bears. The sick chief is much better this morning; he can use his hands and arms and seems quite pleased with his prospects for recovery. He says he feels much better than he has for a great number of months. I sincerely hope that the sweets will restore him. I have consented to repeat the sweets.
The Country along the rocky mountains for Several hundred Miles in length and about 50 in width is leavel extremely fertile and in many parts Covered with a tall and opult. growth of the long leafed pine. near the Watercourses the hills are lofty tho are covered with a good Soil and not remarkably Stoney and possess more timber than the leavel country. the bottom lands on the Water courses are reather narrow and confined tho fertile and Seldom inundated. this Country would form an extensive Settlement; the Climate appears quit as mild as that of a Similar latitude on the Atlantic Coast; & it cannot be otherwise than healthy; it possesses a fine dry pure air. the grass and maney plants are now upwards of Knee high. I have no doubt that this tract of Country if Cultivated would produce in great abundance every article esentially necessary to the comfort and Subsistence of civillized man. to it's present inhabitents nature Seems to have dealt with a liberal hand, for she has distributed a great variety of esculent plants over the face of the Country which furnish them a plentiful Store of provisions; those are acquired but little toil; and when prepared after the method of the nativs afford not only a nutricious but an agreeable food. among other roots those Called by them the Quawmash and Cows are esteemd. the most agreeable and valuable as they are also the most abundant in those high plains.
The area along the Rocky Mountains stretches for several hundred miles and is about 50 miles wide. It's mostly flat, highly fertile, and in many places, covered with a tall and lush growth of long-leafed pine. Near the rivers, the hills are steep but have good soil that's not overly rocky and has more timber than the flatlands. The land along the waterways is somewhat narrow and confined, yet remains fertile and is rarely flooded. This region could support a large settlement; the climate is as mild as areas of similar latitude on the Atlantic Coast and is likely very healthy due to the dry, pure air. The grass and many plants are already knee-high. I am confident that if this land were cultivated, it would produce abundantly every essential item necessary for the comfort and sustenance of civilized people. Nature seems to have been generous to its current inhabitants, providing a wide variety of edible plants that offer them a plentiful supply of food with little effort involved. When prepared using native methods, these plants not only provide nutritious but also enjoyable meals. Among other roots, those known as Quawmash and Cows are regarded as the most pleasant and valuable, as they are also the most plentiful in these high plains.
The Cows is a knobbed root of an erregularly rounded form not unlike the Gensang in form and Consistence; this root they Collect, rub off a thin black rhind which Covers it and pounding it exposes it in cakes to the Sun. these Cakes are about an inch and 1/4 thick and 6 by 18 in wedth, when dry they either eat this bread alone without any further preperation, or boil it and make a thick Musilage; the latter is most common & much the most agreeable. the flower of this root is not very unlike the gensang-. this root they Collect as early as the Snow disappears in the Spring, and Continues to collect it untill the Quawmash Supplies it's place which happins about the Middle of June. the quawmash is also Collected for a fiew weeks after it first makes it's appearance in the Spring, but when the scape appears it is no longer fit for use untill the Seed are ripe which happens about the time just mentioned. and then the Cows declines. The Cows is also frequently dried in the Sun and pounded afterwards and used in thickening Supe and Makeing Mush.
The Cows is a knobbed root with an irregularly rounded shape, somewhat similar to Gensang in form and consistency. They gather this root, scrape off the thin black skin that covers it, and pound it into cakes to sun-dry. These cakes are about 1¼ inches thick and 6 by 18 inches wide. Once dry, they either eat this bread as is without any further preparation or boil it to make a thick paste; the latter is more common and much more enjoyable. The flower of this root is somewhat similar to that of Gensang. They start collecting this root as soon as the snow melts in spring and continue until the Quawmash takes its place, which happens around the middle of June. The Quawmash is also gathered for a few weeks after it first appears in spring, but once the scape shows up, it is no longer suitable for use until the seeds are ripe, which occurs around the same time mentioned. After that, the Cows root starts to decline. The Cows are also often dried in the sun and then pounded to be used for thickening soup and making mush.
The Chopunnish held a Council in the morning of the 12th among themselves in respect to the Subject on which we had Spoken to them the day before, the result as we learnt was favourable, they placed Confidence in the information they had recived and resolved to pursue our advise. after this Council was over the principal Chief or the broken arm, took the flour of the roots of Cows and thickened the Soup in the Kitiles and baskets of all his people, this being ended he made a harangue the purpote of which was makeing known the deliberations of their councils and impressing the necessity of unanimity among them, and a strict attention to the resolution which had been agreed on in Councell; he concluded by enviting all such men as had resolved to abide by the decree of the councill to come and eat, and requested Such as would not be So bound to Show themselves by not partakeing of the feast. I was told by one of our men who was present in the house, that there was not a decenting voice on this great National question, but all Swallowed their objections if any they had, very cheerfully with their mush-. dureing the time of this loud animated harangue of the Chief the women Cryed wrung their hands, tore their hair and appeared to be in the utmost distress. after this cerimoney was over, the Chiefs and considerate men came in a body to where we were Seated at a little distance from our tent, and two young men at the instance of the nation presented Capt L. and myself each a fine horse. and informed us that they had listened with attentioned to what we had Said and were resolved to pursue our Counsels &c.—That as we had not seen the Black foot Indians and the Minetarries of Fort dePrarie they did not think it safe to venter over to the plains of the Missouri, where they would fondly go provided those nations would not kill them. that when we had established a tradeing house on the Missouri as we had promised they would Come over and trade for arms Amunition &c. and live about us. that it would give them much pleasure to be at peace with those nations altho they had Shed much of their blood-. They Said that they were pore but their hearts were good. we might be assured of their sincerety. Some of their brave men would go over with us to the Missouri and bring them the news as we wished, and if we Could make a peace between them and their enimies on the other Side of the mountains their nation would go over to the Missouri in the latter end of the Summer. on the Subject of one of their Chiefs accompanying us to the land of the White men they Could not yet determine, but that they would let us know before we left them. that the Snow was yet so deep in the Mountains that if we attempted to pass, we would Certainly perish, and advised us to remain untill after the next full Moon when the Snow would disappear on the South hill sides and we would find grass for our horses.-. Shabonos Child is better this day that he was yesterday. he is free from fever. the imposthume is not So large but Seems to be advanceing to meturity-.
The Chopunnish held a council in the morning of the 12th to discuss the topic we talked about the day before. The outcome, as we learned, was positive; they trusted the information they had received and decided to follow our advice. Once the council wrapped up, the main chief, known as the Broken Arm, took flour from the roots of cows to thicken the soup in the kettles and baskets of all his people. After that, he delivered a speech to share the decisions made in their councils and emphasize the importance of unity among them, as well as strict adherence to the resolutions agreed upon. He concluded by inviting all those who were willing to follow the council’s decree to come and eat, while asking those who did not want to comply to show themselves by not partaking in the feast. I was told by one of our men present in the gathering that there wasn’t a single dissenting voice on this major national issue; everyone willingly set aside any objections they might have had while enjoying their mush. During the chief's impassioned speech, the women cried, wrung their hands, tore their hair, and appeared to be in distress. Once this ceremony was over, the chiefs and respected men approached us where we were seated a short distance from our tent. Two young men, at the nation’s request, presented Captain L. and me each with a fine horse, informing us that they had listened carefully to what we said and were committed to following our counsel. They mentioned that since we hadn’t encountered the Blackfoot Indians or the Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie, they didn’t think it was safe to venture over to the plains of the Missouri, although they would like to go if those nations didn’t attack them. They assured us that once we established a trading post on the Missouri as promised, they would come over to trade for arms, ammunition, etc., and would live nearby. They expressed that they would be very pleased to have peace with those nations, even though they had shed a lot of their blood. They stated they were poor, but their hearts were good, and we could trust their sincerity. Some of their brave men would accompany us to the Missouri to bring them news as we desired, and if we could broker peace between them and their enemies on the other side of the mountains, their nation would migrate to the Missouri by the end of summer. Regarding whether one of their chiefs would accompany us to the land of the White men, they couldn’t decide yet but promised to inform us before we left. They noted that the snow was still very deep in the mountains, and that attempting to cross would likely be fatal, advising us to wait until after the next full moon when the snow would melt on the southern hills and we would find grass for our horses. Shabono’s child is feeling better today than yesterday; he is free from fever. The abscess isn’t as large but seems to be progressing toward maturity.
[Lewis, May 29, 1806]
Thursday May 29th 1806. No movement of the party today worthy of notice. we have once more a good stock of meat and roots. Bratton is recovering his strength very fast; the Child and the Indian Cheif are also on the recovery. the cheif has much more uce of his hands and arms. he washed his face himself today which he has been unable to do previously for more than twelvemonths. we would have repeated the sweat today had not been cloudy and frequently raining. a speceis of Lizzard called by the French engages prarie buffaloe are native of these plains as well as of those of the Missouri. I have called them the horned Lizzard. they are about the size and a good deel the figure of the common black lizzard. but their bellies are broader, the tail shorter and their action much slower; they crawl much like the toad. they are of brown colour with yellowish and yellowishbrown spots. it is covered with minute scales intermixed with little horny prosesses like blont prickles on the upper surface of the body. the belley and throat is more like the frog and are of a light yelowish brown colour. arround the edge of the belley is regularly set with little horney projections which give to those edges a serrate figure the eye is small and of a dark colour. above and behind the eyes there are several projections of the bone which being armed at their extremities with a firm black substance has the appearance of horns sprouting out from the head. this part has induced me to distinguish it by the apppellation of the horned Lizzard. I cannot conceive how the engages ever assimilated this animal with the buffaloe for there is not greater analogy than between the horse and the frog. this animal is found in greatest numbers in the sandy open parts of the plains, and appear in great abundance after a shower of rain; they are sometimes found basking in the sunshine but conceal themselves in little holes in the earth much the greater preportion of their time. they are numerous about the falls of the Missouri and in the plains through which we past lately above the Wallahwallahs.—The Choke Cherry has been in blume since the 20th inst. it is a simple branching ascending stem. the cortex smooth and of a dark brown with a redish cast. the leaf is scattered petiolate oval accute at its apex finely serrate smooth and of an ordinary green. from 11/2 to 3 inches in length and 13/4 to 2 in width. the peduncles are common, cilindric, and from 4 to 5 inches in length and are inserted promiscuously on the twigs of the preceeding years growth. on the lower portion of the common peduncle are frequently from 3 to 4 small leaves being the same in form as those last discribed. other peduncles 1/4 of an inch in length are thickly scattered and inserted on all sides of the common peduncle at wright angles with it each elivating a single flower, which has five obtuse short patent white petals with short claws inserted on the upper edge of the calyx. the calyx is a perianth including both stamens and germ, one leafed fine cleft entire simiglobular, infrior, deciduous. the stamens are upwards of twenty and are seated on the margin of the flower cup or what I have called the perianth. the filaments are unequal in length subulate inflected and superior membranous. the anthers are equal in number with the filaments, they are very short oblong & flat, naked and situated at the extremity of the filaments, is of a yelow colour as is also the pollen. one pistillum. the germen is ovate, smooth, superior, sessile, very small; the Style is very short, simple, erect, on the top of the germen, deciduous. the stigma is simple, flat very short.-
Thursday, May 29, 1806. There was no significant movement from the group today. We once again have a good supply of meat and roots. Bratton is recovering his strength quickly; the Child and the Indian Chief are also getting better. The Chief has much better use of his hands and arms. He washed his own face today, which he hasn’t been able to do for more than a year. We would have repeated the sweat today if it hadn’t been cloudy and raining frequently. A type of lizard, called the horned lizard by the French, is native to these plains as well as those of the Missouri.I have named them the horned lizard. They are about the size and somewhat similar in shape to the common black lizard, but their bellies are broader, the tails are shorter, and they move much slower; they crawl much like a toad. They are brown with yellowish and yellowish-brown spots. Their bodies are covered with tiny scales mixed with little bony projections like blunt prickles. The belly and throat resemble that of a frog and are a light yellowish-brown. Around the edges of the belly, there are little horny projections that give those edges a serrated appearance. The eyes are small and dark. Above and behind the eyes, there are several bony projections that, with firm black tips, look like horns sprouting from the head. This feature has led me to call it the horned lizard. I can’t understand how the French could ever associate this animal with the buffalo, as there’s no more similarity than between a horse and a frog. This lizard is most abundant in the sandy, open areas of the plains and appears in great numbers after a rain shower; they are sometimes found basking in the sun but spend most of their time hiding in small holes in the ground. They are numerous near the falls of the Missouri and in the plains we passed through recently above the Wallahwallahs. The choke cherry has been in bloom since the 20th of this month. It has a simple, upright branching stem. The bark is smooth, dark brown, and has a reddish tinge. The leaves are scattered, petiolate, oval, pointed at the top, finely serrated, smooth, and a typical green color. They range from 1.5 to 3 inches in length and 1.75 to 2 inches in width. The peduncles are cylindrical, about 4 to 5 inches long, and randomly attached to the twigs from the previous year’s growth. On the lower part of the common peduncle, there are often 3 to 4 small leaves shaped like those previously described. Other peduncles, about 1/4 inch long, are densely scattered and attached on all sides of the common peduncle at right angles, each supporting a single flower. Each flower has five blunt, short, spreading white petals with short claws attached to the upper edge of the calyx. The calyx is a perianth containing both stamens and the germ; it is a single leaf, finely cleft, entire, semi-globular, inferior, and deciduous. There are more than twenty stamens, located around the edge of the flower cup, which I’m calling the perianth. The filaments vary in length, are threadlike, bent, and membranous. The anthers match the number of the filaments, are short, oblong, flat, and naked, and located at the ends of the filaments, yellow in color, as is the pollen. There is one pistil. The ovary is smooth, ovate, superior, very small, and sessile; the style is very short, simple, straight, located on top of the ovary, and deciduous. The stigma is simple, flat, and very short.
[Clark, May 29, 1806]
Thursday 29th of May 1806 No movement of the party to day worthy of notice. we have once more a good Stock of Meat and roots. Bratten is recovering his Strength very fast. the Child, and the Indian Cheaf are also on the recovery. the Chief has much more use of his hands and arms. he washed his face himself today. Which he has not been able to do previously for more than twelve months past. I would have repeeted the Sweat to day had it not been Cloudy and frequently raining.-. Sence my arrival here I have killed Several birds of the Corvus genus of a kind found only in the rocky mountains and their neighbourhood. I first met with bird on Jeffersons River. and Saw them on the hights of the rocky mountains. but never before had an oppertunity of examineing them Closely. the Small Corvus discribed at Fort Clatsop is a different Species, tho untill now I had taken it to be the Same, this is much larger and has a loud squaling note something like the newing of a Cat. the beak of this bird is 11/2 inches long, is proportionably large, black and of the form which characterize this genus. the upper exeeds the under Chap a little. the head and neck are also propotionably large, the eyes full and reather prominant, the iris dark brown and purple black. it is about the Size and Some what the form of the jay bird, tho reather rounder and more full in the body. the tail is four and a half inches in length, composed of 12 feathers nearly of the Same length. the head, neck and body of this bird is of a dove Colour. the wings are black except the extremities of Six large feathers occupying the middle joint of the wings which are White. the under disk of the wings are not of the shineing or glossy black which mark it's upper Surface. the two feathers in the Center of the tail are black as are the two adjacent feathers for half their wedth, the ballance are of a pure White. the feet and legs are black, and imbricated with wide Scales, the nails are black and remarkably long and Sharp, also much Curved, it has four toes on each foot of which one is in the rear and 3 in front. the toes are long particular that in the rear. this bird feeds on the Seeds of the pine and also on insects. it resides in the rocky Mountains at all Seasons of the year, and in many parts is the only bird to be found. a Species of Lizzard Called by the French engages, Prarie buffaloe are nativs of these plains as well as those of the Missouri. I have Called them the horned Lizzard. they are about the Size and a good deel the figure of the Common black lizzard. but their bellies are broader, the tail Shorter and their action much Slower; they Crawl much like the toad. they are of a brown Colour with yellowish and yellowish brown Spots. it is covered with minute scales intermixed with little horney like blunt prickkles on the upper Surface of the body. the belly and throat is more like the frog and are of a light yellowish brown Colour. around the edge of the belly is regularly Set with little horney prejections which give to those edges a Serrate figure, the eye is Small and of a dark colour. above and behind the eyes there are Several Projections of the bone which being armed at their extremities with a firm black Substance has the appearance of horns Sprouting out from the head. this part has induced me to distinguish it by the appellation of the Horned Lizard. I cannot conceive how the engagees ever assimilated this animal withe Buffalow for there is not grater anology than between the Horse and the frog. this Animal is found in greatest numbers in the Sandy open parts of the Plains, and appear in great abundance after a rain; they are Sometimes found basking in the Sunshine but conceal themselves in little holes under the tufts of grass or herbs much the greater proportion of their time. they are noumerous about the Falls of Missouri, and in the plains through which we passed lately above the Falls of Columbia
Thursday, May 29, 1806 There was no notable movement from the party today. We once again have a good supply of meat and roots. Bratten is recovering his strength very quickly. The child and the Indian chief are also getting better. The chief can use his hands and arms much more now. He washed his own face today, which he hasn't been able to do for more than twelve months. I would have repeated the sweat session today if it hadn't been cloudy and raining often. Since my arrival here, I have killed several birds of the Corvus genus, a kind found only in the Rocky Mountains and nearby areas. I first encountered this bird on Jefferson's River and saw them in the heights of the Rockies, but I never had the chance to examine them closely before. The small Corvus described at Fort Clatsop is a different species, though until now, I thought it was the same. This one is much larger and has a loud squawking call similar to a cat meowing. The beak of this bird is 1.5 inches long, proportionately large, black, and shaped like others in this genus. The upper jaw slightly exceeds the lower. The head and neck are also proportionately large, the eyes are full and quite prominent, with a dark brown and purplish-black iris. It's about the size and somewhat the shape of a jay bird but rounder and fuller in the body. The tail is about four and a half inches long, made up of 12 feathers that are nearly the same length. The head, neck, and body of this bird have a dove color. The wings are black except for the tips of six large feathers in the middle joint of the wings, which are white. The underside of the wings isn't the shiny black that marks the upper surface. The two center feathers of the tail are black, and the two adjacent feathers are black for half their width; the rest are pure white. The feet and legs are black and covered with wide scales, the nails are black, remarkably long and sharp, and also quite curved. Each foot has four toes: one in the back and three in front, with the rear toe being particularly long. This bird feeds on pine seeds and insects. It lives in the Rocky Mountains year-round and is often the only bird found in many areas. A type of lizard, called "engagees" by the French, and prairie buffalo are native to these plains, as well as those of the Missouri. I have named them the horned lizard. They are about the size and somewhat resemble the common black lizard, but their bellies are broader, their tails shorter, and their movements much slower; they crawl much like toads. They are brown with yellowish and light brown spots, covered in tiny scales mixed with small, horn-like, blunt prickles on the upper surface. The belly and throat resemble a frog and are a light yellowish-brown color. The edge of the belly is lined with small, horn-like projections, giving it a serrated look. The eyes are small and dark. Above and behind each eye, there are several bone projections that, with firm black tips, look like horns sprouting from the head. This feature led me to name it the horned lizard. I can't understand how the engagees ever associated this animal with buffalo, as there is no greater similarity than between a horse and a frog. This animal is most numerous in the sandy, open parts of the plains and appears abundantly after rain. They are sometimes found basking in the sunlight but spend most of their time hiding in small holes under grass or herbs. They are plentiful around the Missouri Falls and in the plains we recently crossed above the Columbia Falls.
The Choke Cherry has been in blume Since the 20th inst. it is a Simple branching ascending Stem. the Cortex Smooth and of a dark brown with a redish Cast. the leaf is scattered petiolate oval accute at it's apex finely Serated Smooth and of an ordinary green, from 21/2 to 3 inches in length and from 11/4 to 2 in width. the Peduncles cilindric and Common from 4 to 5 inches in length and are inserted promiscuisly on the twigs of the proceeding years growth. on the lower portion of the Common peduncle are frequently from 3 to 4 Small leaves, being the same in form as those last discribed. other peduncles 1/4 of an inch in length are Scattered and thickly inserted on all sides of the Common peduncle at right-angles with it, each elivateing a Single flower, which has five obtuse Short patent white petals with Short claws incerted on the upper edge of the calyx. the Calyx is a perianth including both Stemes & germ, one leafed five cleft entire, Semi globular. the Stamons are upwards of twenty and are Seated on the Margin of the flower Cup or what I have Called the perianth. the filaments are unequal in length Subulate inflected and Superior membranous. the anthers are equal in number with the filaments, they are very Short oblong and flat, naked and Situated at the extremity of the filaments. is of a yellowish colour asis also the pollen. one pistillum. the germin is ovate, Smooth, Superior, sessile, very Small; the Style is very Short, Simple, erect, on the top of the germen deciduous. the Stigma is Simple, flat very Short. This Shrub rises to the hight of from 6 to 8 feet generally but Sometimes rich Situations much higher. it is not confined to any particular Situation Capt. L-s met with a singular plant in blume of which we preserved a Specimene. it grows on the Steep fertile hill Sides near this place the radix is fibrous, not much branched, annual, woody, white and nearly Smooth. the Stem is Simple branching ascending 21/2 feet high. Celindric, villose and of a pale red Colour. the branches are but fiew and those near it's upper extremity. the extremities of the branches are flexable and are bent down near their extremities with the weight of the flowers. the leaf is sessile, scattered thinly, nearly lineor tho Somewhat widest in the middle, two inches in length, absolutely entire, villose, obtusely pointed and of an Ordinary green. above each leaf a Small Short branch protrudes, Supporting a tissue of four or five Small leaves of the Same appearance of those discribed. a leaf is placed under neath each branch and each flower. the Calyx is one flowered Spatha. the corolla Superior, consists of four pale perple petals which are tripartite, the Centeral lobe largest and all terminate obtusely; they are inserted with a long and narrow claw on the top of the germ, are long, Smooth and deciduous. there are two distinct Sets of Stamens the first or principal Consists of four, the filaments which are capillary, erect, inserted on the top of the germ alternately with the petals, equal short, membranus; the anthers are also four each being elivated with it's fillaments; they are reather flat, erect sessile, cohering to the base, membranous, longitudinally furrowed, twise as long as the fillament naked, and of a pale purple colour, the Second Set of Stamens are very minute, are also four and placed within and opposit to the petals, those are Scercely precptable while the first are large & Conspicious, the fillaments are capillary equal, very Short white and Smooth. the anthers are four, oblong, beaked, erect Cohering at the base, membanous, Shorter than the fillaments, White naked and appear not to form pollen, there is one pistillum; the germ of which is also one, celindric, villous, inferior, Sessile, as long as the first Stamuns, and grooved. the Single Style and Stigma form a perfect mono petallous corolla only with this difference that the Style which elivates the Stigma or limb is not a tube but solid tho it's outer appearance is that of a tube of a Monopetallous corolla swelling as it ascends and gliding in such manner into the limb that it Cannot be Said where the Style ends or the Stigma begins, jointly they are as long as the Gorilla, while the limb is four cleft, Sauser Shaped, and the margin of the lobes entire and rounded. this has the appearance of a monopetallous flower growing from the Center of the four petalled corollar which is rendered more conspicuous in consequence of the first being white and the latter of a pale purple. I regret very much that the Seed of this plant are not ripe as yet and it is probable will not be so dureing our residence in this neighbourhood-. our Horses maney of them have become So wild that we Cannot take them without the assistance of the indians who are extreemly dextrous in throwing a Rope and takeing them with a noose about the neck; as we frequently want the use of our horses when we cannot get the use of the indians to take them, we had a Strong pound formed to day in order to take them at pleasure-
The choke cherry has been blooming since the 20th. It has a simple, upward branching stem. The bark is smooth, dark brown with a reddish tint. The leaves are scattered, petiolate, oval, and pointed at the tip, finely serrated, smooth, and a regular green color, measuring about 2.5 to 3 inches in length and 1.25 to 2 inches in width. The peduncles are cylindrical and usually measure 4 to 5 inches long, attached randomly to twigs from the previous year's growth. At the lower part of the common peduncle, there are often 3 to 4 small leaves, similar in shape to those just described. There are also smaller peduncles, 1/4 of an inch long, scattered and densely positioned at right angles along the common peduncle, each holding a single flower with five short, blunt, patent white petals featuring short claws attached to the upper edge of the calyx. The calyx is a perianth that includes both stem and germ, consisting of a single leaf that is five-cleft, entire, and semi-globular. There are over twenty stamens located at the edge of the flower cup, which I've referred to as the perianth. The filaments vary in length, are narrow and inflected, and are membranous. The anthers match the number of filaments, are very short, oblong, flat, and situated at the end of the filaments, and are yellowish in color, as is the pollen. There is one pistil. The ovary is oval, smooth, superior, sessile, and very small; the style is very short, simple, upright, and deciduous at the top of the ovary. The stigma is simple, flat, and very short. This shrub usually grows to a height of 6 to 8 feet, though it can be taller in rich environments. It isn't limited to specific locations; Captain L. encountered a unique blooming plant that we preserved as a specimen. It grows on steep, fertile hillsides near here. The root is fibrous, not heavily branched, annual, woody, white, and nearly smooth. The stem is a simple, upward branching structure, about 2.5 feet tall. It's cylindrical, hairy, and pale red. The branches are few and positioned near the top. The ends of the branches are flexible and bend downward under the weight of the flowers. The leaves are sessile, spaced thinly, nearly linear but widest in the middle, measuring two inches long, completely entire, hairy, bluntly pointed, and a typical green. Above each leaf, a small, short branch protrudes, supporting a cluster of four or five small leaves that look like those already described. A leaf is placed beneath each branch and each flower. The calyx is a one-flowered spathe. The corolla is superior, made up of four pale purple petals that are tripartite, with the central lobe being the largest and all tapering to blunt ends. They are attached with a long, narrow claw to the top of the ovary, and are long, smooth, and deciduous. There are two distinct sets of stamens: the first, or principal set, contains four. The filaments are thin, upright, and alternately inserted at the top of the ovary and the petals, equal in length, and membranous; each of the four anthers is elevated with its filament, somewhat flat, upright, sessile, connected at the base, membranous, longitudinally furrowed, and twice as long as the filament, pale purple. The second set of stamens is much smaller, also four in number, placed within and opposite the petals, and they are scarcely perceptible, while the first set is large and noticeable. The filaments are thin, equal, very short, white, and smooth. The anthers are four, oblong with a beak, upright, attached at the base, membranous, shorter than the filaments, white, naked, and appear not to produce pollen. There is one pistil; its ovary is also one, cylindrical, hairy, inferior, sessile, as long as the first stamens, and grooved. The single style and stigma form a complete monopetalous corolla, differing only in that the style elevating the stigma or limb is not a tube but solid, though it looks like a tube of a monopetalous corolla as it swells upward and merges so seamlessly into the limb that it's hard to tell where the style ends and the stigma begins. Together they are as long as the corolla, while the limb is four-cleft, saucer-shaped, with entire and rounded lobe edges. This gives the appearance of a monopetalous flower growing from the center of the four-petaled corolla, which is made more noticeable by the first being white and the latter a pale purple. I really wish that the seeds of this plant were ripe, but they probably won’t be during our stay here. Many of our horses have become so wild that we can't catch them without help from the Indians, who are very skilled at throwing a rope and catching them with a noose around the neck. Since we often need our horses when we can’t borrow the Indians, we built a strong pen today to catch them at our convenience.
[Lewis, May 30, 1806]
Friday May 30th 1806. Lapage and Charbono set out to the indian vilages early this morning for the purpose of trading with them for roots; Sergt. Gass was sent this morning to obtain some goats hair to stuff the padds of our saddles. he ascended the river on this side and being unable to pass the river opposite to the village he wished to visit, returned in the evening unsuccessfull. Shannon and Collins were permitted to pass the river in order to trade with the natives and lay in a store of roots and bread for themselves with their proportion of the merchandize as the others had done; in landing on the opposite shore the canoe was driven broad side with the full forse of a very strong current against some standing trees and instantly filled with water and sunk. Potts who was with them is an indifferent swimer, it was with much difficulty he made the land. they lost three blankets a blanket coat and their pittance of merchandize. in our bear state of clootheing this was a serious loss. I sent Sergt. Pryor and a party over with the indian canoe in order to raise and secure ours but the debth of the water and the strength of the current baffled every effort. I fear that we have also lost our canoe. all our invalides are on the recovery. we gave the sick Cheif a severe sweat today, shortly after which he could move one of his legs and thyes and work his toes pretty well, the other leg he can move a little; his fingers and arms seem to be almost entirely restored. he seems highly delighted with his recovery. I begin to entertain strong hope of his restoration by these sweats. in the evening Joseph Feild returned in surch of his horses which had left them last evening and returned to camp. Feilds informed us that himself and his brother whom he had left at their camp 6 ms. distant on Collin's creek, had killed 3 deer. The reptiles which I have observed in this quarter are the Rattlesnake of the speceis discribed on the Missouri, they are abundant in every part of the country and are the only poisonous snake which we have yet met with since we left St. Louis. the 2 speceis of snakes of an inosent kind already discribed. the common black lizzard, the horned lizzard, a smal green tree frog, the smal frog which is common to our country which sings in the spring of the year, a large speceis of frog which resorts the water considerably larger than our bull frog, it's shape seems to be a medium between the delicate and lengthy form of our bull frog and that of our land frog or toad as they are sometimes called in the U States. like the latter their bodies are covered with little pustles or lumps, elivated above the ordinary surface of the body; I never heard them make any sound or nois. the mockerson snake or coperhead, a number of vipers a variety of lizzards, the toad bullfrog &c common to the U States are not to be found in this country. most of the insects common to the U States are found here. the butterflies, common house and blowing flies, the horse flies, except the goald coloured ear fly, tho in stead of this fly we have a brown coloured fly about the same size which attatches itself to that part of the horse and is equally as troublesome. the silkworm is also found here. a great variety of beatles common to the Atlantic states are found here likewise. except from this order the large cow beatle and the black beatle usually alled the tumble bug which are not found here. the hornet, the wasp and yellow wasp or yellow jacket as they are frequently called are not met with in this quarter. there is an insect which much resembles the latter only a vast deel larger which are very numerous particularly in the rocky mountains on the waters of the Columbia; these build in the ground where they form a nest like the hornet with an outer covering to the comb in which they deposit their eggs and raise their young. the sheets of this comb are attatched to each other as those of the hornets are. their wings are four of a dark brown colour. the head is black, the body and abdomen are yellow incircled with transverse rings of black, they are ferce and sting very severely, we found them troublesome in frightening our horses as we passed those mountains. the honey bee is not found here. the bumble bee is. one of the men brought me today some onions from the high plain of a different speceis from those near the borders of the river as they are also from the shive or small onion noticed below the falls of the Columbia. these onions were as large as a nutmeg, they generally grow double or two bulbs connected by the same tissue of radicles; each bulb has two long liniar flat solid leaves. the peduncle is solid celindric and crowned with an umbal of from 20 to 30 flowers. this onion is exceedingly crisp and delicately flavoured indeed I think more sweet and less strong than any I ever taisted. it is not yet perfectly in blow, the parts of the flower are not distinct.
Friday, May 30th, 1806. Lapage and Charbono set off early this morning to the Indian villages to trade for roots. Sergt. Gass was sent this morning to get some goat hair to stuff the pads of our saddles. He went up the river on this side but, unable to cross to the village he wanted to visit, returned in the evening unsuccessful. Shannon and Collins were allowed to cross the river to trade with the locals and stock up on roots and bread for themselves, just like the others had done. When they landed on the opposite shore, the canoe was hit broadside by the full force of a strong current against some standing trees and instantly filled with water and sank. Potts, who was with them, is not a strong swimmer, and he struggled to reach the shore. They lost three blankets, a blanket coat, and their share of merchandise. Given our limited clothing situation, this was a significant loss. I sent Sergt. Pryor and a group over with the Indian canoe to try to recover and secure ours, but the water's depth and the current's strength thwarted every effort. I'm afraid we've also lost our canoe. All our injured members are on the mend. We gave the sick Chief a good sweat today, after which he could move one of his legs and thighs and wiggle his toes fairly well; the other leg has a bit of movement as well. His fingers and arms seem almost completely restored. He seems really happy about his recovery. I'm starting to feel hopeful about his restoration from these sweats. In the evening, Joseph Feild returned searching for his horses, which had left them last night and gone back to camp. Feild informed us that he and his brother, who stayed at their camp six miles away on Collins Creek, had killed three deer. The reptiles I've noticed in this area include the rattlesnake, as described in Missouri; they are abundant throughout the region and are the only poisonous snakes we've encountered since leaving St. Louis. There are two species of non-venomous snakes already mentioned, the common black lizard, a horned lizard, a small green tree frog, and a small frog that's common to our area that sings in the spring. There's a larger species of frog that lives in the water, considerably bigger than our bullfrog; its shape seems to blend the delicate, lengthy form of our bullfrog and that of our land frog or toad, as they're sometimes called in the U.S. Like the latter, their bodies are covered with small bumps or lumps that stick out above the surface of the body; I've never heard them make any sound. The mockerson snake or copperhead, several vipers, a variety of lizards, the toad bullfrog, and others common to the U.S. are not found in this region. Most insects from the U.S. are present here too: butterflies, common house and blow flies, horse flies, except for the gold-colored ear fly; instead, we have a brown fly of about the same size that attaches itself to horses and is equally bothersome. The silkworm is also here. A wide variety of beetles common to the Atlantic states are found here as well, except for the large cow beetle and the black beetle usually called the tumblebug, which are absent. Hornets, wasps, and yellow jackets are not present in this area. There's an insect that closely resembles the latter but is much larger, which is very numerous, especially in the Rocky Mountains near the Columbia River; these build their nests in the ground, similar to hornets, with an outer covering to the comb where they deposit their eggs and rear their young. The sheets of this comb are attached to each other like those of hornets. Their wings are dark brown, the head is black, and the body and abdomen are yellow with transverse black rings. They are fierce and sting very painfully; we found them troublesome while frightening our horses as we passed through those mountains. The honeybee is not found here, but the bumblebee is. One of the men brought me some onions today from the high plains, which differ from those near the riverbank and from the small onions noticed below the falls of the Columbia. These onions were as large as a nutmeg, typically growing double or with two bulbs connected by the same tissue of roots; each bulb has two long, flat, solid leaves. The peduncle is a solid cylinder crowned with an umbel of 20 to 30 flowers. This onion is extremely crisp and delicately flavored; I think it’s sweeter and less pungent than any I’ve ever tasted. It's not yet fully in bloom, and the flower parts aren't distinct.
[Clark, May 30, 1806]
Friday May 30th 1806. Lapage and Shabono Set out early this morning to the Indian Village in order to trade with them for roots; Serjt. Gass was Sent this morning to obtain Some goats hair to Stuf the pads of our Saddles; he assended the river on this Side and being unable to pass the river to the village he wished to visit returned in the evening unsucksessfull. Shannon and Collins were permited to pass the river in order to trade with the nativs and lay in a Store of roots and bread for themselves with their proportion of the merchendize as others had done; on landing on the opposit Shore the Canoe was driven broad Side with the full force of a very Strong Current against Some Standing trees and instantly filled with water and Sunk. Potts who was with them is an indifferent Swimer, it was with dificuelty he made the land. they lost three blankets and a Blanket Cappo and their pittance of Merchindize. in our bear State of Clothing this was a Serious loss. I Sent Serjt. Pryor and a party over in the Indian Canoe in order to raise and Secure ours but the debth of the water and the Strength of the Current baffled every effort. I fear that we have also lost our Canoe.all our involedes are on the recovery. we gave the Sick Chief a Severe Swet to day, Shortly after which he could move one of his legs and thy's and work his toes pritty well, the other leg he can move a little; his fingers and arms Seem to be almost entirely restored. he Seems highly delighted with his recovery. I begin to entertain Strong hope of his recovering by these Sweats in the evening Joseph Fields returned in serch of his horses which had left them last evening and returned to Camp. Field informed us that himself and his brother whome he had left at their Camp 6 ms. distant on Collins Creek had killed 3 Deer.—The reptiles which I have observed in this quarter are the Rattle Snake of the Species discribed on the Missouri, they are abundant in every part of the Country and are the only poisonous Snake which we have met with Since we left St. Louis. the Second Species of Snake of an inosent kind already discribd. the Common black Lizzard, the horned Lizzard, a small green tree-frog; the Same frog which is common to our Country which Sings in the Spring of the year. a large Species of frog which resorts the water considerably larger than our bull-frog, it's Shape Seems to be a Medium between the delicate and lengthy form of our bullfrogs and that of our land frog or toad as they are Sometimes called in the United States. like the latter their bodies are covered with little pustles or lumps, elevated above the ordinary Surface of the body; I never heard them make any Sound or noise, the Mockerson Snake or Copper head, a number of vipers, a variety of Lizzards, the toad bullfrog &c. common to the U. States are not to be found in this Country. Most of the insects common to the U States are found here. the butterfly, common house and blowing flies, the horse flies, except the gold coloured ear fly. tho in Stead of this fly we have a brown coloured fly about the same Size which attatches itself to that part of the horse and is equally as troublesom. the Silk worm is also found here. a great variety of beatles common to the atlantic States are Seen here likewise. except from this order the large Cow beatle and the black beatle usially termed tumble bug which are not found here. the hornet, the Wasp and yellow Wasp or yellow jacket as they are frequently Called are not met with in this quarter. there is an insect which much resembles the latter only a vast deel larger which are very noumerous particular in the Rocky mountains on the waters of the Columbia, those build in the ground where they form a nest like the hornet with an outer covering to the Comb in which they deposit their eggs and raise their young. the Sheets of this Comb are attatched to each other as those of the hornets are. their wings are four of a dark brown Colour—the head is black, the body and abdomin are yellow insercled with transverce rings of black, they are firce and Sting very Severely; we found them troublesom in frightening our horses as we passed through mountains. the honey bee is not found here. the bumblebee is. one of the men brought me to day Some Onions from the high plains of a different Species from those near the borders of the river as they are also from the Shive or Small Onion noticed below the Falls of Columbia. these Onions were as large as an nutmeg, they generally grow double or two bulbs connected by the same tissue of radicles; each bulb has two long liner flat solid leaves. the pedencle is solid celindric and cround with an umble of from 20 to 30 flowers. this Onion is exceedingly crisp and delicately flavoured indeed. I think more Sweet and less strong than any I ever tasted, it is not yet perfectly in blume, the parts of the flower are not distinct
Friday, May 30th, 1806. Lapage and Shabono set out early this morning for the Indian village to trade for roots. Sergeant Gass was sent this morning to get some goat hair to stuff our saddle pads; he traveled up the river on this side but couldn’t cross to the village he wanted to visit, so he returned in the evening unsuccessful. Shannon and Collins were allowed to cross the river to trade with the natives and gather roots and bread for themselves, along with their share of merchandise like the others. When they landed on the opposite shore, the canoe was driven broadside by a very strong current against some standing trees, instantly filling with water and sinking. Potts, who was with them, is a weak swimmer and had difficulty reaching the shore. They lost three blankets, a blanket cap, and their share of merchandise. Given our poor clothing situation, this was a serious loss. I sent Sergeant Pryor and a party over in the Indian canoe to retrieve and secure ours, but the water's depth and the current's strength thwarted every effort. I fear we’ve also lost our canoe. All our valuables are in recovery. We gave the sick chief a severe sweat today, shortly after which he could move one of his legs and toes pretty well; he can move his other leg a little too, and his fingers and arms seem almost fully restored. He appears very pleased with his improvement. I’m starting to have strong hopes for his recovery from these sweats. In the evening, Joseph Fields returned searching for his horses, which had left him last night and returned to camp. Fields informed us that he and his brother, whom he had left at their camp six miles away on Collins Creek, had killed three deer. The reptiles I’ve noticed here are rattlesnakes of the species described on the Missouri; they are common throughout the area and are the only venomous snakes we’ve encountered since we left St. Louis. The second snake species is harmless, along with the common black lizard, the horned lizard, a small green tree frog, and the same frog common in our country that sings in the spring. There’s a large species of frog found in the water, considerably larger than our bullfrog; its shape seems to be a medium between the delicate and lengthy form of our bullfrogs and that of our land frog or toad, as they’re sometimes called in the United States. Like the latter, their bodies are covered with small bumps or lumps raised above the surface of their bodies; I’ve never heard them make any sound. The mockson snake or copperhead, several vipers, a variety of lizards, the toad bullfrog, etc., common in the U.S., are not found here. Most insects common to the U.S. are found here too, including butterflies, common houseflies, blowflies, and horseflies, except for the gold-colored ear fly. Instead of this fly, we have a brown fly of similar size that attaches itself to the horse and is equally bothersome. The silk worm is also found here, and a great variety of beetles common to the Atlantic States are seen here as well, except for large cow beetles and the black beetle usually called tumblebugs, which are not found here. Hornets, wasps, and yellowjackets are not present in this area. There’s an insect that resembles the latter but is much larger, which is quite numerous, especially in the Rocky Mountains along the Columbia River. They build their nests in the ground, similar to hornets, with an outer covering for the comb where they deposit their eggs and raise their young. The sheets of this comb are attached to each other like those of hornets. Their wings are dark brown, with a black head and a yellow body and abdomen marked with transverse black rings; they are fierce and sting very severely. We found them troubling as they frightened our horses while we passed through the mountains. The honeybee isn’t found here; however, the bumblebee is. One of the men brought me some onions today from the high plains, a different species from those near the river’s edge, and also distinct from the small onions seen below the Columbia Falls. These onions were as big as a nutmeg, generally growing double or as two bulbs connected by the same tissue of roots; each bulb has two long, flat, solid leaves. The peduncle is solid, cylindrical, and crowned with a cluster of 20 to 30 flowers. This onion is extremely crisp and delicately flavored, indeed. I find it sweeter and less strong than any I’ve tasted; it’s not yet fully in bloom, and the flower parts are not distinct.
[Lewis, May 31, 1806]
Saturday May 31st 1806. Goodrich and Willard visited the indian Villages this morning and returned in the evening. Willard brought with him the dressed skin of a bear which he had purchased for Capt. C. this skin was an uniform pale redish brown colour, the indians informed us that it was not the Hoh-host or white bear, that it was the Yack-kah. this distinction of the indians induced us to make further enquiry relative to their opinons of the several speceis of bear in this country. we produced the several skins of the bear which we had killed at this place and one very nearly white which I had purchased. The white, the deep and plale red grizzle, the dark bron grizzle, and all those which had the extremities of the hair of a white or frosty colour without regard to the colour of the ground of the poil, they designated Hoh-host and assured us that they were the same with the white bear, that they ascosiated together, were very vicisious, never climbed the trees, and had much longer nails than the others. the black skins, those which were black with a number of intire white hairs intermixed, the black with a white breast, the uniform bey, brown and light redish brown, they designated the Yack-kah;-said that they climbed the trees, had short nails and were not vicious, that they could pursue them and kill them with safety, they also affirmed that they were much smaller than the white bear. I am disposed to adopt the Indian distinction with rispect to these bear and consider them two distinct speceis. the white and the grizzly of this neighbourhood are the same of those found on the upper portion of the Missouri where the other speceis are not, and that the uniform redish brown black &c of this neighbourhood are a speceis distinct from our black bear and from the black bear of the Pacific coast which I believe to be the same with those of the Atlantic coast, and that the common black bear do not exist here. I had previously observed that the claws of some of the bear which we had killed here had much shorter tallons than the variagated or white bear usually have but supposed that they had woarn them out by scratching up roots, and these were those which the indians called Yak-kah. on enquiry I found also that a cub of an uniform redish brown colour, pup to a female black bear intermixed with entire white hairs had climbed a tree. I think this a distinct speceis from the common black bear, because we never find the latter of any other colour than an uniform black, and also that the poil of this bear is much finer thicker and longer with a greater proportion of fur mixed with the hair, in other ispects they are much the same.—This evening Joseph and R. Feilds returned with the three deer which they had killed. The Indians brought us another of our origional Stock of horses; there are only two absent now of those horses, and these the indians inform us that our shoshone guide rode back when he returned. we have sixty five horses at this time, most of them in excellent order and fine strong active horses.-
Saturday, May 31, 1806. Goodrich and Willard visited the Indian villages this morning and came back in the evening. Willard brought with him the tanned skin of a bear that he had bought for Capt. C. This skin was a uniform pale reddish-brown color. The Indians informed us that it was not the Hoh-host or white bear, but the Yack-kah. This distinction made us curious to learn more about their opinions on the various species of bear in this area. We showed them the bear skins we had collected here, including one that was almost white, which I had purchased. They categorized the white, the dark and pale red grizzle, the dark brown grizzle, and all those with white or frosty-colored hair tips—regardless of the base color of the fur—as Hoh-host, assuring us they were the same as the white bear. They said these bears lived together, were very aggressive, never climbed trees, and had much longer nails than the others. The black skins, as well as those that were black with scattered white hairs, the black with a white breast, the uniform bay, brown, and light reddish-brown bears, were identified as Yack-kah; they claimed that these bears climbed trees, had shorter nails, and were not aggressive, asserting that we could chase and kill them safely, and they also noted that these bears were much smaller than the white bear. I am inclined to accept the Indian classification regarding these bears and consider them as two distinct species. The white and grizzly bears in this area are the same as those found in the upper Missouri region, where the other species do not exist, and the uniform reddish-brown, black, etc., of this area represent a species different from our black bear and from the black bear of the Pacific coast, which I believe to be the same as those on the Atlantic coast, and that the common black bear does not exist here. I had previously noted that some bears we killed here had much shorter claws than the varied or white bears typically have, but I assumed they had worn them down by digging for roots; these were the ones the Indians called Yack-kah. Upon further inquiry, I learned that a cub with a uniform reddish-brown color, offspring of a female black bear mixed with entirely white hairs, had climbed a tree. I believe this is a distinct species from the common black bear because we never find the latter in any color other than solid black, and also because the fur on this bear is much finer, thicker, and longer, with a greater proportion of fur mixed in. In other respects, they are quite similar. This evening, Joseph and R. Fields returned with the three deer they had hunted. The Indians also brought us another of our original horses; now only two are missing from our herd, which the Indians told us our Shoshone guide rode back with him. We currently have sixty-five horses, most of them in excellent shape and strong, active animals.
The Indians pursued a mule deer to the river opposite to our camp this evening; the deer swam over and one of our hunters killed it. there being a large party of indians assembled on this occasion on the opposite side, Hohast-ill-pilp desired them to raise our canoe which was sunk on that side of the river yesterday; they made the attempt but were unable to effect it.
The Indians chased a mule deer to the river across from our camp this evening; the deer swam over, and one of our hunters shot it. Since there was a large group of Indians gathered on the other side, Hohast-ill-pilp asked them to lift our canoe, which had sunk there yesterday. They tried, but they couldn't get it done.
[Clark, May 31, 1806]
Saturday May 31st 1806 Goodrich and Willard visited the indian Village this morning and returned in the evening Willard brought with him the dressed Skin of a bear which he had purchased for me. this Skin was of a uniform pale redish brown colour, the indians inform us that it was not the Hoh-host or white bear, that it was the Yack-kah this distinction of the indians induced us to make further enquiry relitive to their oppinions of the defferent Species of bear in this country. We produced the Several Skins of the bear which our hunters had killed at this place and one very nearly white which Capt Lewis had purchased. the White, the deep and pale red grizzle, the dark brown grizzle, and all those that had the extremities of the hair of a White or frosty Colour without reguard to the Colour of the ground of the poil, they disignated Hoh-host and assured us that they were the Same with the White bear, that they associated together, were very vicisious, never climb the trees, and had much longer nails than the others. The black skins, those which were black with a number of entire white hairs intermixed, the black with a White breast, the uniform bey, brown and light redish brown, they disignated the Yack-kah-; Said that they Climb the trees had Short nails and were not viscisious, that they could prosue them and kill them in Safty, they also affirmed that they were much Smaller than the white bear. I am disposed to adopt the Indians distinction with respect to these bear and consider them two distinct Species. the White and the Grizzly of this neighbourhood are the Same as those found on the upper part of the Missouri where the other Species are not, and that the uniform redish brown black &c. of this neighbourhood are a Species distinct from both Species of our black bear and from the black bear of the Pacific Coast which I believe to be the Same with those of the Atlantic Coast, and that the Common black bear do not exist here. I had previously observed that the claws of Some of the bear which we had killed here had much Shorter tallons than the varigated or White bear usially have but Supposed that they had worn them out by scratching out roots, and these were those which the indians call Yahkah. on enquiry I found also that a Cub of a uniform redish brown Colour pup to a female black bear intermixed with entire white hairs, had climbed a tree. I think this a distinct Species from the common black bear becaus we never find the latter of any other Colour than a uniform black, and also that the poil of this bear is much finer thicker and longer with a greater proportion of fur mixed with the hair, in other respects they are much the same
Saturday, May 31st, 1806: Goodrich and Willard visited the Indian village this morning and returned in the evening. Willard brought me the dressed skin of a bear that he had purchased. This skin was a uniform pale reddish-brown color. The Indians informed us that it was not the Hoh-host or white bear; it was the Yack-kah. This distinction made us further inquire about their opinions on the different species of bears in this country. We showed them several bear skins that our hunters had killed here, along with one that was nearly white, which Captain Lewis had purchased. The white, deep and pale red grizzly, dark brown grizzly, and all those with white or frosty-colored tips, regardless of the base color of the fur, were designated as Hoh-host. They assured us that these were the same as the white bear, that they were social, very vicious, never climbed trees, and had much longer claws than the others. The black skins, those that were black with a mix of white hairs, the black with a white breast, and the uniform bay, brown, and light reddish-brown, were designated as Yack-kah. They said these bears could climb trees, had shorter nails, and were not vicious, allowing for safe pursuit and killing. They also claimed these bears were much smaller than the white bear. I am inclined to accept the Indians' distinction regarding these bears and consider them two distinct species. The white and the grizzly bears from this region are the same as those found in the upper Missouri, where the other species are absent, and the uniform reddish-brown, black, etc., from this area are a species distinct from both of our black bear species and the black bears of the Pacific Coast, which I believe are the same as those of the Atlantic Coast. I conclude that the common black bear does not exist here. I had previously noted that the claws of some of the bears we killed here were much shorter than those of the variegated or white bears usually have, but I thought they had worn them down by scratching for roots, and these were what the Indians call Yahkah. Upon further inquiry, I also found that a cub of uniform reddish-brown color born to a female black bear, interspersed with white hairs, had climbed a tree. I believe this is a distinct species from the common black bear because we never find the latter in any color other than uniform black, and also that the fur of this bear is much finer, thicker, and longer, with a higher proportion of fur mixed in with the hair; otherwise, they are quite similar.
This evening, Joseph and Reuben Fields returned with the three deer they had killed. The indians brought us another of our Original Stock of Horses; there are only two Absent now of these horses, and these the indians inform us that our Sho-Sho-ne guide rode back when he returned. we have Sixty five horses at this time, most of them in excellent order and fine Strong active horses
This evening, Joseph and Reuben Fields came back with the three deer they had killed. The Indians brought us another one of our original horses; there are only two missing now, and the Indians told us that our Sho-Sho-ne guide rode them back when he headed back. We currently have sixty-five horses, most of which are in great condition and strong, energetic animals.
The Indians pursued a Mule deer to the river opposit to our Camp this evening; the deer Swam over and one of our hunters killed it. there being a large party of indians assembled on this Occasion on the opposit Side with Tin-nach-e-moo-tolt they attempted to rais our Canoe which was Sunk on that Side of the river yesterday; they made the attempt but were unable to effect it-.
The Indians chased a mule deer to the river across from our camp this evening; the deer swam over, and one of our hunters killed it. A large group of Indians gathered on the other side for this occasion, including Tin-nach-e-moo-tolt. They tried to raise our canoe, which had sunk there yesterday, but were unable to do so.
[Lewis, June 1, 1806]
Sunday June 1st 1806. Yesterday evening Charbono an LaPage returned, having made a broken voyage. they ascended the river on this side nearly opposite to a village eight miles above us, here their led horse which had on him their merchandize, feell into the river from the side of a steep clift and swam over; they saw an indian on the opposite side whom they prevailed on to drive their horse back again to them; in swiming the river the horse lost a dressed Elkskin of LaPages and several small articles, & their paint was destroyed by the water. here they remained and dryed their articles the evening of the 30th Ult. the indians at the village learning their errand and not having a canoe, made an attempt esterday morning to pass the river to them on a raft with a parsel of roots and bread in order to trade with them; the indian raft struck a rock, upset and lost thir cargo; the river having fallen heir to both merchandize and roots, our traders returned with empty bags. This morning Drewyer accompanyed by Hohastillpilp set out in surch of two tomahawks of ours which we have understood were in the possession of certain indians residing at a distance in the plains on the South side of the Kooskoske; the one is a tomahawk which Capt. C. left at our camp on Musquetoe Creek and the other was stolen from us while we lay at the forks of this and the Chopunnish rivers last fall. Colter and Willard set out this morning on a hunting excurtion towards the quamash grounds beyond Collins's Creek. we begin to feel some anxiety with rispect to Sergt. Ordway and party who were sent to Lewis's river for salmon; we have received no inteligence of them since they set out. we desired Drewyer to make some enquiry after the Twisted hair; the old man has not been as good as his word with rispect to encamping near us, and we fear we shall be at a loss to procure guides to conduct us by the different routs we wish to pursue from Traveller's rest to the waters of the Missouri.—I met with a singular plant today in blume of which I preserved a specemine; it grows on the steep sides of the fertile hills near this place, the radix is fibrous, not much branched, annual, woody, white and nearly smooth. the stem is simple branching ascending, 21/2 feet high celindric, villose and of a pale red colour. the branches are but few and those near it's upper extremity. the extremities of the branches are flexable and are bent down near their extremities with the weight of the flowers. the leaf is sissile, scattered thinly, nearly linear tho somewhat widest in the middle, two inches in length, absolutely entire, villose, obtusely pointed and of an ordinary green. above each leaf a small short branch protrudes, supporting a tissue of four or five smaller leaves of the same appearance with those discribed. a leaf is placed underneath eah branch, and each flower. the calyx is a one flowered spathe. the corolla superior consists of four pale perple petals which are tripartite, the central lobe largest and all terminate obtusely; they are inserted with a long and narrow claw on the top of the germ, are long, smooth, & deciduous. there are two distinct sets of stamens the 1st or principal consist of four, the filaments of which are capillary, erect, inserted on the top of the germ alternately with the petals, equal short, membranous; the anthers are also four each being elivated with it's fillament, they are linear and reather flat, erect sessile, cohering at the base, membranous, longitudinally furrowed, twise as long as the fillament naked, and of a pale perple colour. the second set of stamens are very minute are also four and placed within and opposite to the petals, these are scarcely persceptable while the 1st are large and conspicuous; the filaments are capillary equal, very short, white and smooth. the anthers are four, oblong, beaked, erect, cohering at the base, membranous, shorter than the fillaments, white naked and appear not to form pollen. there is one pistillum; the germ of which is also one, cilindric, villous, inferior, sessile, as long as the 1st stamens, and marked with 8 longitudinal furrows. the single style and stigma form a perfict monapetallous corolla only with this difference, that the style which elivates the stigma or limb is not a tube but solid tho it's outer appearance is that of the tube of a monopetallous corolla swelling as it ascends and gliding in such manner into the limb that it cannot be said where the style ends, or the stigma begins; jointly they are as long as the corolla, white, the limb is four cleft, sauser shaped, and the margins of the lobes entire and rounded. this has the appearance of a monopetallous flower growing from the center of a four petalled corollar, which is rendered more conspicuous in consequence of the 1st being white and the latter of a pale perple. I regret very much that the seed of this plant are not yet ripe and it is proble will not be so during my residence in this neighbourhood.
Sunday, June 1, 1806. Yesterday evening, Charbono and LaPage returned after a disrupted trip. They traveled up the river near a village about eight miles from us. While there, their pack horse, which was carrying their merchandise, fell into the river from a steep cliff and swam across. They saw an Indian on the other side and convinced him to bring their horse back. In the process of swimming, the horse lost a torn piece of elk skin from LaPage and several small items, and their paint was ruined by the water. They stayed there to dry their belongings on the evening of the 30th of last month. The Indians from the village, learning of their mission and lacking a canoe, tried to cross the river on a raft the next morning with a load of roots and bread to trade with them. The Indian raft hit a rock, capsized, and lost its cargo, leaving our traders to return with empty bags. This morning, Drewyer, accompanied by Hohastillpilp, set out to search for two of our tomahawks, which we heard were with some Indians living further out in the plains to the south of the Kooskoske. One is a tomahawk that Capt. C. left at our camp on Musquetoe Creek and the other was taken from us while we were at the junction of this and the Chopunnish rivers last fall. Colter and Willard went out this morning on a hunting trip towards the quamash grounds beyond Collins's Creek. We're starting to worry about Sgt. Ordway and his group, who were sent to Lewis's river for salmon; we haven’t heard anything from them since they left. We asked Drewyer to check on Twisted Hair; the old man hasn't kept his promise to camp near us, and we're concerned about finding guides to take us on the different routes we want to follow from Traveler's Rest to the Missouri River. I came across a unique plant today and preserved a sample of it; it grows on the steep sides of the fertile hills near here. The root is fibrous, not very branched, annual, woody, white, and almost smooth. The stem is simple, branching, upright, about 2.5 feet high, cylindrical, hairy, and pale red. There are few branches, mainly near the top. The tips of the branches are flexible and bend down under the weight of the flowers. The leaves are attached directly to the stem, scattered thinly, nearly linear but a bit widest in the center, about two inches long, completely smooth, hairy, pointed, and a regular green. Above each leaf, a small short branch sticks out, supporting a cluster of four or five smaller leaves that look similar to those described. Each branch and flower has a leaf underneath it. The calyx is a single-flowered spathe. The upper corolla consists of four pale purple petals that are split into three parts, the middle part being the largest, and all end bluntly; they are attached with a long, narrow base on top of the ovary, long, smooth, and fall off easily. There are two distinct sets of stamens; the first, or main set, has four filaments that are hair-like, straight, attached at the top of the ovary alternately with the petals, equal in length, and membranous. The anthers are also four—each elevated alongside its filament, linear and somewhat flat, standing straight up, connected at the base, membranous, with longitudinal grooves, twice the length of the hair-like filament, and a pale purple color. The second set of stamens is very small, also four, positioned inside and opposite the petals; they are hardly noticeable, while the first are large and clear. The filaments of the second set are hair-like and equal, very short, white, and smooth. The anthers are four, oblong, beaked, standing up, attached at the base, membranous, shorter than the filaments, white, and appear not to produce pollen. There is one pistil; the ovary of which is also one, cylindrical, hairy, located below, attached at the base, as long as the first stamens, and marked with eight longitudinal grooves. The single style and stigma create a perfect single-petaled corolla except for one difference: the style that raises the stigma isn't a tube but solid, although it looks like a tube, swelling as it goes up and merging into the stigma in such a way that it's unclear where the style ends and the stigma begins; together, they are the same length as the corolla, white, with the stigma split into four parts, saucer-shaped, and the edges of the lobes are whole and rounded. This looks like a single-petaled flower growing from the center of a four-petaled corolla, which is more evident because the first is white while the latter is pale purple. I really regret that the seeds of this plant aren't ripe yet, and it’s likely that they won't be during my time in this area.
[Clark, June 1, 1806]
Sunday June 1st 1806. Late last evening Shabono & Lapage returnd. haveing made a broken voyage. they assended the river on this Side nearly opposit to the Village Eight miles above us, here their led horse who had on him their Stock of Merchindize fell into the river from the Side of a Steep Clift and swam over, they Saw an indian on the opposit side whome they provailed on to drive their horse back again to them; in swiming the horse lost a dressed Elk skin of LaPages and Several small articles, and their paint was distroyed by the water. here they remained and dryed their articles the evening of the 30th ulto. the indians at the village learned their errand and not haveing a canoe, made an attempt Yesterday morning made an attempt to pass the river to them on a raft with a parcel of roots and bread in order to trade with them; the indian raft Struck a rock upset and lost their Cargo; the river haveing Swallowed both Merchindize & roots, our traders returned with empty bags. This morning Geo. Drewyer accompanied by Hohastillpilp Set out in Serch of two tomahawks of ours which we have understood were in the possession of certain indians resideing at a distance in the Plains on the South Side of Flat Head river; one is a pipe tomahawk which Capt L. left at our Camp on Musquetor Creek and the other was stolen from me whilst we lay at the forks of this and Chopunnish rivers last fall. Colter and Willard Set out this morning on a hunting excurtion towards the quawmash grounds beyond Colins creek. we begin to feel Some anxiety with respect to Sergt. Ordway and party who were Sent to Lewis's river for salmon; we have receved no intillegence of them Sence they Set out. we desired Drewyer to make Some enquiry after the Twisted hair; the old man has not been as good as his word with respect to encamping near us, and we fear we Shall be at a loss to procure guides to conduct us by the different routs we wish to pursue from Travillers rest to the waters of the Missouri
Sunday, June 1st, 1806. Late last evening, Shabono and Lapage returned after having a rough trip. They went up the river on this side, nearly opposite the village, eight miles above us. Here, their pack horse, carrying their stock of merchandise, fell into the river from the edge of a steep cliff and swam across. They saw an Indian on the other side who helped them by bringing their horse back. While swimming, the horse lost a dressed elk skin of Lapage's along with several small items, and their paint was ruined by the water. They stayed there and dried their belongings the evening of May 30th. The Indians at the village learned why they were there and, not having a canoe, tried yesterday morning to cross the river on a raft with some roots and bread to trade. The Indian raft hit a rock, tipped over, and they lost their cargo; the river swallowed both the merchandise and the roots, so our traders returned with empty bags. This morning, George Drewyer, along with Hohastillpilp, set out in search of two of our tomahawks that we heard were in the possession of some Indians living far away on the plains south of Flat Head River; one is a pipe tomahawk that Captain Lewis left at our camp on Musquetor Creek, and the other was stolen from me while we were at the forks of this and Chopunnish rivers last fall. Colter and Willard set out this morning on a hunting expedition toward the quawmash grounds beyond Collins Creek. We're starting to feel some concern about Sergeant Ordway and his party, who were sent to Lewis's River for salmon; we haven't received any news from them since they left. We asked Drewyer to inquire about the Twisted Hair; the old man hasn’t kept his word regarding camping close to us, and we’re worried we might have trouble finding guides to take us along the different routes we want to follow from Traveler's Rest to the Missouri River.
[Lewis, June 2, 1806]
Monday June 2cd 1806. McNeal and york were sent on a trading voyage over the river this morning. having exhausted all our merchandize we are obliged to have recourse to every subterfuge in order to prepare in the most ample manner in our power to meet that wretched portion of our journy, the Rocky Mountain, where hungar and cold in their most rigorous forms assail the waried traveller; not any of us have yet forgotten our sufferings in those mountains in September last, and I think it probable we never shall. Our traders McNeal and York were furnished with the buttons which Capt. C. and myself cut off our coats, some eye water and Basilicon which we made for that purpose and some Phials and small tin boxes which I had brought out with Phosphorus. in the evening they returned with about 3 bushels of roots and some bread having made a successful) voyage, not much less pleasing to us than the return of a good cargo to an East India Merchant.—Collins, Sheilds, R & J. Feilds and Shannon set out on a hunting excurtion to the Quawmash grounds on the lower side of Collins's Creek. our horses many of them have become so wild that we cannot take them without the assistance of the Indians who are extreemly dextrous in throwing a rope and taking them with a noose about the neck; as we frequently want the use of our horses when we cannot get the assistance of the indians to take them, we had a strong pound formed today in order to take them at pleasure. Drewyer arrived this evening with Neeshneparkkeeook and Hohastillpilp who had accompanyed him to the lodges of the persons who had our tomahawks. he obtained both the tomahawks principally by the influence of the former of these Cheifs. the one which had been stolen we prized most as it was the private property of the late Sergt. Floyd and Capt. C. was desireous of returning it to his friends. the man who had this tomahawk had purchased it from the Indian that had stolen it, and was himself at the moment of their arrival just expiring. his relations were unwilling to give up the tomehawk as they intended to bury it with the disceased owner, but were at length induced to do so for the consideration of a hadkerchief, two strands of beads, which Drewyer gave them and two horses given by the cheifs to be killed agreeably to their custom at the grave of the disceased. The bands of the Chopunnish who reside above the junction of Lewis's river and the Kooskooske bury their dead in the earth and place stones on the grave. they also stick little splinters of wood in betwen the interstices of the irregular mass of stone piled on the grave and afterwards cover the whole with a roof of board or split timber. the custom of sacreficing horses to the disceased appears to be common to all the nations of the plains of Columbia. a wife of Neeshneeparkkeeook died some short time since, himself and hir relations saceficed 28 horses to her. The Indians inform us that there are a plenty of Moos to the S. E. of them on the East branch of Lewis's river which they call Tommanamah R. about Noon Sergt. Ordway Frazier and Wizer returned with 17 salmon and some roots of cows; the distance was so great from which they had brought the fish that most of them were nearly spoiled. these fish were as fat as any I ever saw; sufficiently so to cook themselves without the addition of grease; those which were sound were extreemly delicious; their flesh is of a fine rose colour with a small admixture of yellow. these men set out on the 27th ult. and in stead of finding the fishing shore at the distance of half a days ride as we had been informed, they did not reach the place at which they obtained their fish untill the evening of the 29th having travelled by their estimate near 70 miles. the rout they had taken however was not a direct one; the Indians conducted them in the first instance to the East branch of Lewis's river about 20 miles above it's junction with the South branch, a distance of about 50 Ms. where they informed them they might obtain fish; but on their arrival at that place finding that the salmon had not yet arrived or were not taken, they were conducted down that river to a fishery a few miles below the junction of the forks of Lewis's river about 20 Ms. further, here with some difficulty and remaining one day they purchased the salmon which they brought with them. the first 20 Ms. of their rout was up Commeap Creek and through a plain open country, the hills of the creek continued high and broken with some timber near it's borders. the ballance of their rout was though a high broken mountanous country generally well timbered with pine the soil fertile in this quarter they met with an abundance of deer and some bighorned animals. the East fork of Lewis's river they discribe as one continued rapid about 150 Yds. wide it's banks are in most places solid and perpendicular rocks, which rise to a great hight; it's hills are mountains high. on the tops of some of those hills over which they passed, the snow had not entirely disappeared, and the grass was just springing up. at the fishery on Lewis's river below the forks there is a very considerable rapid nearly as great from the information of Segt. Ordway as the great falls of the Columbia the river 200 Yds. wide. their common house at this fishery is built of split timber 150 feet long and 35 feet wide flat at top. The general course from hence to the forks of Lewis's river is a little to the West of south about 45 Ms.—The men at this season resort their fisheries while the women are employed in collecting roots. both forks of Lewis's river above their junction appear to enter a high Mountainous country.—my sick horse being much reduced and apearing to be in such an agoni of pain that there was no hope of his recovery I ordered him shot this evening. the other horses which we casterated are all nearly recovered, and I have no hesitation in declaring my beleif that the indian method of gelding is preferable to that practiced by ourselves.
Monday, June 2, 1806. McNeal and York were sent on a trading trip across the river this morning. Having run out of all our merchandise, we had to resort to every trick we could think of to prepare as best as we could for that difficult part of our journey, the Rocky Mountains, where hunger and cold challenge the weary traveler. None of us have forgotten our suffering in those mountains last September, and I doubt we ever will. Our traders, McNeal and York, were given the buttons that Captain C. and I cut off our coats, some eye wash and Basilicon we made for that purpose, plus some small bottles and tin boxes I had brought out with Phosphorus. In the evening, they returned with about three bushels of roots and some bread, having had a successful journey, almost as satisfying as the return of a valuable cargo to an East India merchant. Collins, Shields, R & J. Fields, and Shannon set out on a hunting expedition to the Quawmash grounds on the lower side of Collins's Creek. Many of our horses have become so wild that we cannot catch them without help from the Indians, who are incredibly skilled at throwing a rope and capturing them with a noose around the neck. Since we often need our horses but can't always get help from the Indians, we built a strong corral today to catch them at our convenience. Drewyer arrived this evening with Neeshneparkkeeook and Hohastillpilp, who had accompanied him to the lodges of the people who had our tomahawks. He managed to get both tomahawks, mainly due to the influence of the former chief. The one that had been stolen was the most valuable to us, as it belonged to the late Sergeant Floyd and Captain C. wanted to return it to his family. The man who had this tomahawk had bought it from the Indian who took it, and at that moment of their arrival, he was just dying. His relatives were hesitant to give up the tomahawk as they intended to bury it with the deceased owner, but they were eventually persuaded to do so for a handkerchief, two strands of beads that Drewyer gave them, and two horses given by the chiefs to be sacrificed according to their customs at the gravesite of the deceased. The bands of the Chopunnish who live above the junction of Lewis's River and the Kooskooske bury their dead in the ground and place stones on the grave. They also stick small splinters of wood in the gaps of the uneven pile of stones covering the grave and later cover everything with a roof made of boards or split timber. The practice of sacrificing horses for the deceased seems common among all the nations of the Columbia plains. A wife of Neeshneeparkkeeook recently passed away, and he and his family sacrificed 28 horses for her. The Indians tell us there are plenty of moose to the southeast of them on the east branch of Lewis's River, which they call Tommanamah R. Around noon, Sergeant Ordway, Frazier, and Wizer returned with 17 salmon and some roots. The distance was so great that most of the fish were nearly spoiled. These salmon were as fatty as any I've ever seen, enough to cook themselves without any added grease; those that were fresh were incredibly delicious; their flesh is a nice rose color with a hint of yellow. These men set out on the 27th of last month, and instead of finding the fishing shore half a day’s ride away as we had been told, they didn’t arrive at the spot where they caught their fish until the evening of the 29th, having traveled nearly 70 miles by their estimate. However, the route they took wasn’t direct; the Indians first guided them to the east branch of Lewis's River about 20 miles above its junction with the south branch, a distance of about 50 miles, where they said they could find fish. But on arriving there and discovering that the salmon hadn’t yet shown up or hadn’t been caught, they were led downriver to a fishery a few miles below the junction of the forks of Lewis's River, about 20 miles further. After some difficulty and a day of waiting, they bought the salmon that they brought back with them. The first 20 miles of their route was up Commeap Creek and through a flat, open area, but the hills around the creek were steep and broken with some timber near the edges. The remainder of their route took them through a high, rugged mountainous region, generally well-forested with pine and fertile soil, where they encountered a lot of deer and some bighorn sheep. They described the east fork of Lewis's River as one continuous rapid about 150 yards wide, with its banks mostly made of solid, vertical rocks that rise to great heights; the hills are quite high mountains. On some of those hills they passed over, the snow hadn’t entirely melted, and the grass was just starting to grow. At the fishery on Lewis's River below the forks, there is a significant rapid that, according to Sergeant Ordway, is nearly as large as the great falls of the Columbia, with the river being 200 yards wide. Their main building at this fishery is constructed from split timber, measuring 150 feet long and 35 feet wide, with a flat roof. The general direction from here to the forks of Lewis’s River is slightly southwest, about 45 miles. The men visit the fisheries this season while the women gather roots. Both forks of Lewis's River above their junction seem to enter a high mountainous region. My sick horse had become very weak and seemed to be in such agonizing pain that I saw no hope for his recovery, so I ordered him to be shot this evening. The other horses we castrated are all nearly recovered, and I firmly believe that the Indian method of gelding is better than what we practice.
[Clark, June 2, 1806]
Monday June 2nd 1806 McNeal and York were Sent on a tradeing voyage over the river this morning. having exhosted all our Merchendize we were obliged to have recourse to every Subterfuge in order to prepare in the most ample manner in our power to meet that wretched portion of our journy, the Rocky Mountains, where hungar and Cold in their most regorous form assail the waried traveller; not any of us have yet forgotten our those mountains in September last, I think it probable we never Shall. Our traders McNeal and York are furnished with the buttons which Capt L-. and my Self Cut off of our Coats, Some eye water and Basilicon which we made for that purpose and Some phials of eye water and Some tin boxes which Capt L. had brought from Philadelphia. in the evening they returned with about 3 bushels of roots and Some bread haveing made a Suckcessfull voyage, not much less pleasing to us than the return of a good Cargo to an East India merchant.
Monday, June 2nd, 1806: McNeal and York were sent on a trading trip across the river this morning. Having exhausted all our merchandise, we had to resort to every trick we could think of to prepare as thoroughly as possible for that difficult stretch of our journey, the Rocky Mountains, where hunger and cold hit the weary traveler hardest. None of us have forgotten those mountains from last September; I doubt we ever will. Our traders, McNeal and York, were provided with the buttons that Captain L. and I cut off our coats, along with some eye salve and basilicon that we made for the occasion, as well as some vials of eye salve and tin boxes that Captain L. had brought from Philadelphia. In the evening, they returned with about three bushels of roots and some bread after a successful trip, which brought us as much joy as the return of a good cargo to an East India merchant.
Shields, Collins, Reuben & Joseph Field & Shannon Set out on a hunting excurtion to the quaw mash the lower side of Collins Creek & towards the Mountains.
Shields, Collins, Reuben & Joseph Field & Shannon set out on a hunting trip to the quaw mash on the lower side of Collins Creek & towards the mountains.
Drewyer arived this evening with Neeshneparkkeeook and Hohashillpilp who had accompanied him to the lodge of the person who had our tomahawks. he obtained both the tomahawks principally by the influence of the former of those Chiefs. the one which had been Stolen we prized most as it was the private property of the late Serjt. Floyd and I was desireous of returning it to his friends. The man who had this tomahawk had purchased it from the man who had Stolen it, and was himself at the moment of their arival just expireing. his relations were unwilling to give up the tomahawk as they intended to bury it with the deceased owner, but were at length to do so for the Consideration of a handkerchief, two Strands of heeds, which drewyer gave them and two horses given by the Chiefs to be Killed agreeable to their custom at the grave of the deceased. The custom of Sacrificeing horses to the disceased appears to be Common to all the nations of the plains of the Columbia. a Wife of Neeshneeparkkeeook died Some Short time Sence, himself and her relations sacrificed horses to her. The Indians inform us that there is a plenty of Moos to the S. E. of them on the East branch of Lewis's river which they Call Tommawamah River. About noon Sergt. Ordway Frazier and Wiser returnd. with 17 Salmon and Some roots of the Cows; the distance was So great from whence they brought the fish, that most of them were nearly Spoiled. those fish were as fat as any I ever saw; Sufficiently So to cook themselves without the addition of Grease or butter; those which were Sound were extreemly delicious; their flesh is of a fine rose colour with a Small admixture of yellow. these men Set out on the 27th ulto. and in Sted of finding the fishing Shore at the distance of half a days ride as we had been informed, they did not reach the place at which they obtained their fish untill the evening of the 29th haveing traveled near 70 miles. the rout they had taken however was not a direct one; the Indians Conducted them in the first instance to the East fork of Lewis's river about 10 miles above it's junction with the South branch, a distance of about 50 miles where they informed them they might obtain fish; but on their arival at that place finding that the Salmon had not arived or were not taken, they were Conducted down that river to a fishery a fiew miles below the junction of the forks of Lewis's River about 20 miles further, here they remained one day and with some dificuelty, they purchased the Salmon which they brought with them. the first 20 ms. Of their rout was up Commeap Creek and through a plain open Country, the hills of the Creek Continued high and broken with Some timber near it's borders, the ballance of their rout was through a high broken Mountanious Country. generally well timbered with pine the soil fertile. in this quarter the meet with abundance of deer and Some big-horned Animals. The East fork of Lewis's river they discribe as one Continued rapid of about 150 yards wide, it's banks are in most places Solid and perpindicular rocks, which rise to a great hight; it's hills are mountanious high. on the top of Some of those hills over which they passed, the Snow had not entirely disappeared, and the grass was just springing up. at the fishery on Lewis's river below the forks there is a very Considerable rapid, nearly as Great from the information of Sergt. Ordway as the Great falls of the Columbia the river 200 yards wide. their common house at this fishery is built of Split timber 150 feet long and 35 feet in width, flat at top. the general Course from here to the forks of Lewis's river is a little to the west of South about 45 ms. The men at this Season resort their fisheries while the womin are employed in collecting roots-. both forks above the junction of Lewis's river appear to enter a high Mountainious Country. our horses are all recovering & I have no hesitation in declareing that I believe that the Indian Method of guilding preferable to that practised by ourselves.
Drewyer arrived this evening with Neeshneparkkeeook and Hohashillpilp, who had gone with him to the lodge of the person who had our tomahawks. He obtained both tomahawks mainly thanks to the influence of the former of those Chiefs. We valued the stolen one the most because it was the private property of the late Sergeant Floyd, and I wanted to return it to his friends. The man who had this tomahawk had bought it from the thief and was just dying at the moment of their arrival. His family didn't want to give up the tomahawk because they planned to bury it with him, but eventually agreed to part with it in exchange for a handkerchief, two strands of beads which Drewyer gave them, and two horses that the Chiefs offered to be killed according to their customs at the deceased's grave. The custom of sacrificing horses for the deceased seems to be common among all the nations of the Columbia plains. A wife of Neeshneeparkkeeook died a short time ago, and he and her family sacrificed horses for her. The Indians tell us there are plenty of moose to the southeast of them on the east branch of Lewis's River, which they call Tommawamah River. Around noon, Sergeant Ordway, Frazier, and Wiser returned with 17 salmon and some roots of cow parsnip. The distance they traveled was so great that most of the fish were nearly spoiled. Those fish were as fat as any I’ve ever seen—enough to cook themselves without adding grease or butter; the ones that were sound were extremely delicious, with flesh that had a beautiful rose color mixed with a hint of yellow. These men set out on the 27th of last month, and instead of finding the fishing spot half a day's ride away as we had been told, they didn’t reach where they got the fish until the evening of the 29th, having traveled nearly 70 miles. Their route wasn't a direct one; the Indians first led them to the east fork of Lewis's River, about 10 miles above its junction with the south branch, a distance of about 50 miles, where they were told they could find fish. However, upon arriving there and discovering that the salmon had not arrived or were not available, they were guided downstream to a fishery a few miles below the junction of the forks of Lewis's River, about 20 miles further. They stayed there for a day, and with some difficulty, they managed to buy the salmon they brought back. The first 20 miles of their route was up Commeap Creek and through an open plain, with the hills of the creek remaining high and rugged, though there was some timber near its banks. The rest of their route was through a high, broken, mountainous region, generally well-timbered with pine and fertile soil. Here, they encountered plenty of deer and some big-horned animals. The east fork of Lewis's River is described as a continuous rapid about 150 yards wide, with most banks made of solid, vertical rocks that rise to great heights. On some of the hills they passed over, snow had not entirely melted, and grass was just beginning to sprout. At the fishery on Lewis's River below the forks, there is a significant rapid, nearly as great as the Great Falls of the Columbia, and the river there is 200 yards wide. Their main house at this fishery is built of split timber, 150 feet long and 35 feet wide, with a flat roof. The general direction from here to the forks of Lewis's River is a little west of south, about 45 miles. The men go to their fishing spots during this season while the women are busy gathering roots. Both forks of Lewis's River above the junction appear to lead into a high, mountainous area. Our horses are all recovering, and I have no hesitation in saying that I believe the Indian method of guiding is preferable to our own.
[Lewis, June 3, 1806]
Tuesday June 3rd 1806. Our invalids are all on the recovery; Bratton is much stronger and can walk about with considerable ease. the Indian Cheif appears to be gradually recovering the uce of his limbs, and the child is nearly well; the imposthume on his neck has in a great measure subsided and left a hard lump underneath his left ear; we still continue the application of the onion poltice. at 2 P.M. The Broken arm and 3 of his wariars visited us and remained all night. Colter, Jo. Fields and Willard returned this evening with five deer and one bear of the brown speceis; the hair of this was black with a large white spot on the breast containing a small circular black spot. today the Indians dispatched an express over the mountains to travellers rest or the neighbourhood of that Creek on Clark's river in order to learn from the Oote-lash-shoots a band of the Flatheads who have wintered there, the occurrences that have taken place on the East side of the mountains during that season. this is the band which we first met with on that river. the mountains being practicable for this express we thought it probable that we could also pass, but the indians informed us that several of the creeks would yet swim our horses, that there was no grass and that the roads were extreemly deep and slipery; they inform us that we may pass conveniently in twelve or fourteen days. we have come to a resolution to remove from hence to the quawmash grounds beyond Collins's creek on the 10th to hunt in that neighbourhood a few days, if possible lay in a stock of meat and then attempt the mountains about the middle of this month. I begin to lose all hope of any dependance on the Salmon as this river will not fall sufficiently to take them before we shall leave it, and as yet I see no appearance of their runing near the shores as the indians informed us they would in the course of a few days. I find that all the salmon which they procure themselves they obtain on Lewis's river, and the distance thither is too great for us to think of sending after them even had we merchandize with which to purchase.
Tuesday, June 3rd, 1806. Our patients are all recovering; Bratton is much stronger and can walk around with relative ease. The Indian chief seems to be gradually regaining the use of his limbs, and the child is nearly well; the abscess on his neck has mostly subsided, leaving a hard lump beneath his left ear. We continue to apply the onion poultice. At 2 P.M., the broken-arm warrior and three of his warriors visited us and stayed all night. Colter, Jo. Fields, and Willard returned this evening with five deer and one brown bear; the bear's fur was black with a large white spot on its breast that had a small circular black spot. Today, the Indians sent an express over the mountains to Traveler's Rest or the area around that creek on Clark's River to learn from the Oote-lash-shoots, a group of Flatheads who have wintered there, about events that have occurred on the east side of the mountains during that season. This is the group we first encountered on that river. The mountains being passable for this express, we thought it likely we could also make the journey, but the Indians informed us that several of the creeks would still be deep enough to swim our horses, that there was no grass, and that the roads were extremely deep and slippery; they told us we could likely pass comfortably in twelve or fourteen days. We have decided to move from here to the quawmash grounds beyond Collins's Creek on the 10th to hunt in that area for a few days, with the goal of stocking up on meat, and then attempt the mountains around the middle of this month. I'm starting to lose all hope of relying on the salmon since this river won't lower enough for us to catch them before we leave it, and so far, I see no signs of them running near the shores, as the Indians told us they would in a few days. I find that all the salmon they catch for themselves come from Lewis's River, and the distance to there is too great for us to think about sending someone after them, even if we had goods to trade.
[Clark, June 3, 1806]
Tuesday June 3rd 1806 Our invalids are all on the recovery; bratten is much Stronger and can walk about with Considerable ease. the Indian Chief appears to be gradually recovering the use of his limbs, and the child is nearly well; the inflomation on his neck Continus but the Swelling appears to Subside. we Still Continue the application of the onion poltice. at 3 P.M. the broken arm and three wariors visited us and remained all night. Colter, Jos. Fields and Willard returned this evening with five deer and one bear of the brown Species; the hair of this was black with a large white Spot on the breast containing a Small circular black Spot. (this Species of bear is Smaller than our Common black bear) this was a female bear and as our hunters informed us had cubs last year, this they judged from the length and Size of her tits &c. this bear I am Confident is not larger than the yerlin Cubs of our Country. To day the Indians dispatched an express over the mountains to Travellers rest or to the neighbourhood of that Creek on Clark's river in order to learn from a band of Flat-Heads who inhabit that river and who have probably Wintered on Clarks river near the enterance of travellers rest Creek, the occurences which have taken place on the East Side of the mountains dureing the last winter. this is the band which we first met with on that river. the Mountains being practicable for this express we thought it probable that we could also pass, but the Chiefs informs us that Several of the Creek's would yet swim our horses, that there was no grass and that the road was extreemly deep and slipery; they inform us that we may pass Conveniently in twelve or fourteen days. we have come to a resolution to remove from hence to the Quawmash Grounds beyond Colins Creek on the 10th to hunt in that neighbourhood a fiew days, if possible lay in a Stock of Meat, and then attempt the Mountains about the Middle of this month. I begin to lose all hope of any dependance on the Salmon as this river will not fall Sufficiently to take them before we Shall leave it, and as yet I see no appearance of their running near the Shore as the indians informed us they would in the course of a fiew days. I find that all the Salmon which they precure themselves they obtain on Lewis's river, and the distance thither is too great for us to think of Sending after them, even had we merchendize with which to purchase the salmon.-.
Tuesday, June 3rd, 1806 Our sick are all recovering; Bratten is much stronger and can walk around with considerable ease. The Indian chief seems to be gradually regaining the use of his limbs, and the child is almost well; the inflammation on his neck continues, but the swelling appears to be subsiding. We still continue the application of the onion poultice. At 3 P.M., the broken arm and three warriors visited us and stayed the night. Colter, Jos. Fields, and Willard returned this evening with five deer and one brown bear; its fur was black with a large white spot on the chest that had a small circular black spot in it. (This species of bear is smaller than our common black bear.) This was a female bear, and our hunters informed us she had cubs last year, judging by the length and size of her teats, etc. I am confident this bear is not larger than yearling cubs in our country. Today, the Indians sent an express over the mountains to Traveler's Rest or to the area near that creek on Clark's River to learn from a band of Flatheads who inhabit that river and who likely wintered near the entrance of Traveler's Rest Creek, about the events that occurred on the east side of the mountains during the last winter. This is the band we first met on that river. Since the mountains are passable for this express, we thought it likely we could also pass, but the chiefs informed us that several of the creeks would still be too deep for our horses to cross, that there was no grass, and that the road was extremely deep and slippery; they told us we could pass conveniently in twelve or fourteen days. We have decided to move from here to the Quawmash Grounds beyond Collins Creek on the 10th to hunt in that area for a few days, if possible, to stock up on meat, and then attempt the mountains around the middle of this month. I'm starting to lose all hope of being able to rely on the salmon since this river won’t drop enough for us to catch them before we leave, and so far, I don’t see any sign of them running close to the shore as the Indians told us they would in a few days. I find that all the salmon they catch themselves come from Lewis's River, and the distance there is too great for us to consider sending for them, even if we had goods to trade for the salmon.
[Lewis, June 4, 1806]
Wednesday June 4th 1806. about noon The 3 Cheifs left us and returned to their vilages. while they were with us we repeated the promises we had formerly made them and invited them to the Missouri with us, they declined going untill the latter end of the summer and said it was there intention to spend the ensuing winter on the East side of the Rocky mountains. they gave us no positive answer to a request which we made, that two or three of their young men should accompany me to the falls of the Missouri and there wait my return from the upper part of Maria's river where it was probable I should meet with some of the bands of the Minnetares from Fort de Prarie; that in such case I should indeavor to bring about a good understanding between those indians and themselves, which when effected they would be informed of it though the young men thus sent with me, and that on the contrary should I not be fortunate enough to meet with these people nor to prevail on them to be at peace they would equally be informed through those young men, and they might still remain on their guard with rispect to them untill the whites had it in their power to give them more effectual releif. The Broken Arm invited us to his village and said he wished to speak to us before we set out, and that he had some roots to give us for our journey over the mountains; Capt. C. promised to visit him as he wished the day after tomorrow.—Sheilds returned this evening from the quawmash grounds with 2 deer which he had killed.
Wednesday, June 4th, 1806. Around noon, the three chiefs left us and went back to their villages. While they were with us, we repeated the promises we had made earlier and invited them to join us in Missouri. They declined to go until late summer and mentioned their plan to spend the upcoming winter on the east side of the Rocky Mountains. They didn’t give us a clear answer to our request for two or three of their young men to come with me to the falls of the Missouri and wait for my return from the upper part of Maria’s River, where I was likely to encounter some bands of the Minnetarees from Fort de Prairie. If that happened, I intended to help establish a good relationship between those Indians and themselves, and they would be informed of any progress through the young men who accompanied me. On the other hand, if I wasn’t successful in meeting those people or convincing them to make peace, they would still be updated through those young men, so they could remain cautious about them until the whites could provide more effective assistance. The Broken Arm invited us to his village and expressed a desire to speak with us before we left, mentioning he had some roots to give us for our journey over the mountains. Capt. C. promised to visit him as he requested the day after tomorrow. Shields returned this evening from the quawmash grounds with two deer that he had killed.
[Clark, June 4, 1806]
Wednesday June 4th 1806 about noon the 3 chiefs left us and returned to their villages. While they were with us we repeeted the promisces we had formerly made them and envited them to the Missouri with us, they declined going untill the latter end of the Summer, and Said it was their intintion to Spend the insiewing winter on the East Side of the Rocky Mountains, they gave us no positive answer to a request which we made, that two or three of their young men Should accompany Capt L. to the falls of Missouri and there wait his return from the upper part of Maria's river where it was probable he Should meet with Some of the bands of the Blakfoot Indians and Minitarres of Fort dePrarie, that in Such Case Capt L. would indeavor to bring about a good understanding between those indians and themselves, which when effected they would be informed of it through the young men thus Sent with him. and that on the contrary Should he not be fortunate enough to meet with those people, nor to provaile on them to be at peace they would equally be informed through those young men, and they might Still remain on their guard with respect to them, untill the Whites had it more in their Power to give them more effectual relief. I also urged the necessaty of Sending one or two of their Considerate men to accompany me by way of the Shoshonees on the head of Jeffersons river and about the three forks of the Missouri which whome there is most probably Some of the Chiefs of those bands of Shoshones with whome they are at war, and by which means a message Sent to that nation & good understanding brought about between the Shoshones and the Chopunnish Nations which appears to be the wish of both Nations. The Broken Arm envited us to his Village and Said he wished to Speak to us before we Set out, and that he had Some roots to give us for our journey over the mountains; I promised to visit him as he wished the day after tomorrow-. Shields returned this evining from the Quawmash grounds with two Deer which he had killed
Wednesday, June 4, 1806, around noon, the three chiefs left us and went back to their villages. While they were with us, we repeated the promises we had made them before and invited them to join us on the Missouri; they declined to go until the end of summer. They said they intended to spend the upcoming winter on the east side of the Rocky Mountains. They didn’t give us a definite answer to our request for two or three of their young men to go with Capt. L. to the falls of Missouri and wait for his return from the upper part of Maria's River, where he might encounter some of the bands of the Blackfoot Indians and the Minitarres of Fort de Prairie. In such a case, Capt. L. would try to foster a good relationship between those Indians and themselves. If achieved, they would hear about it through the young men we sent with him. Conversely, if he didn’t succeed in meeting those people or convincing them to be at peace, they would also be informed through the young men, and they could still remain cautious about them until the Whites could offer more effective support. I also emphasized the need to send one or two of their thoughtful men to accompany me via the Shoshonees at the head of Jefferson’s River and around the three forks of the Missouri, where some of the chiefs of those bands of Shoshones, with whom they are at war, are likely to be. This way, a message could be sent to that nation, and a good understanding could be established between the Shoshones and the Chopunnish Nations, which seems to be the desire of both nations. The Broken Arm invited us to his village and said he wanted to talk to us before we set out and that he had some roots to give us for our journey over the mountains. I promised to visit him as he requested the day after tomorrow. Shields returned this evening from the Quawmash grounds with two deer he had killed.
[Lewis, June 5, 1806]
Thursday June 5th 1806. Colter and Bratton were permitted to visit the indian villages today for the purpose of trading for roots and bread, they were fortunate and made a good return. we gave the indian cheif another sweat today, continuing it as long as he could possibly bear it; in the evening he was very languid but appeared still to improve in the use of his limbs. the child is recovering fast the inflamation has subsided intirely, we discontinued the poltice, and applyed a plaster of basilicon; the part is still considerably swolen and hard. in the evening R. Feilds Shannon and Labuish return from the chaise and brought with them five deer and a brown bear. among the grasses of this country I observe a large speceis which grows in moist situations; it rises to the hight of eight or ten feet, the culm is jointed, hollow, smooth, as large as a goos quill and more firm than ordinary grasses; the leaf is linnear broad and rough; it has much the appearance of the maden cain as it is called in the state of Gergia, and retains it's virdure untill late in the fall. this grass propegates principally by the root which is horizontal and perennial. a second speceis grows in tussucks and rises to the hight of six or eight feet; it seems to delight in the soil of the river bottoms which possess a greater mixture of sand than the hills in this neighbourhood. this is also a harsh course grass; it appears to be the same which is called the Corn grass in the Southern states, and the foxtail in Virginia. a third speceis resembles the cheet, tho the horses feed on it very freely. a fourth and most prevalent speceis is a grass which appears to be the same called the blue grass common to many parts of the United States; it is common to the bottom as well as the uplands, is now seeding and is from 9 inches to 2 feet high; it affords an excellent pasture for horses and appears to bear the frosts and snow better than any grass in our country; I therefore regret very much that the seed will not be ripe before our probable departure. this is a fine soft grass and would no doubt make excellent hay if cultivated. I do not find the greenswoard here which we met with on the lower part of the Columbia. there are also several speceis of the wild rye to be met with in the praries. among the plants and shrubs common to our contry I observe here the seven bark, wild rose, vining honeysickle, sweet willow, red willow, longleafed pine, Cattail or cooper's flag, lamsquarter, strawberry, raspberry, tonge grass, musterd, tanzy, sinquefield, horsemint, coltsfoot, green plantin, cansar weed, elder, shoemate and several of the pea blume flowering plants.-
Thursday, June 5th, 1806. Colter and Bratton were allowed to visit the Indian villages today to trade for roots and bread; they were lucky and had a good haul. We gave the Indian chief another sweat today, continuing it for as long as he could handle. In the evening, he was very weak but seemed to be improving in the use of his limbs. The child is recovering quickly; the inflammation has completely subsided, so we stopped the poultice and applied a basilicon plaster. The affected area is still quite swollen and hard. In the evening, R. Fields, Shannon, and Labuish returned from the chaise and brought back five deer and a brown bear. Among the grasses in this region, I've noticed a large species that grows in wet areas; it can reach heights of eight to ten feet, has a jointed, hollow, smooth stem the size of a goose quill, and is firmer than typical grasses. The leaves are linear, broad, and rough; it looks a lot like the maiden cane found in Georgia and keeps its greenery until late in the fall. This grass primarily propagates through its horizontal, perennial roots. A second species grows in tussocks and reaches heights of six to eight feet; it seems to thrive in river bottom soil, which has a higher sand content than the nearby hills. This also appears to be a tough coarse grass; it seems to be the same as the corn grass found in the Southern states and foxtail in Virginia. A third species resembles cheat, although horses graze on it quite freely. The fourth and most common species is grass that looks like the bluegrass found in many parts of the United States; it is found in both lowlands and uplands, is currently seeding, and stands from 9 inches to 2 feet tall; it provides excellent pasture for horses and seems to withstand frost and snow better than any grass in our area. I therefore regret that the seed won’t be ripe before our likely departure. This is a fine, soft grass that would undoubtedly make excellent hay if cultivated. I don’t find the greensward here that we encountered in the lower part of the Columbia. There are also several species of wild rye to be found in the prairies. Among the plants and shrubs common to our region, I see the seven bark, wild rose, vining honeysuckle, sweet willow, red willow, longleaf pine, cattail or cooper’s flag, lamb's quarter, strawberry, raspberry, tongue grass, mustard, tansy, snakeweed, horse mint, coltsfoot, green plantain, canker weed, elder, shoemate, and several flowering plants known as pea bloom.
[Clark, June 5, 1806]
Thursday June 5th 1806 Colter and Bratten were permitted to visit the Indian Village to day for the purpose of tradeing for roots and bread, they were fortunate and made a good return. we gave the Indian Cheif another Sweat to-day, continuing it as long as he could bear it. in the evening he was very languid but Still to improve in the use of his limbs. the Child is revovereing fast. I applied a plaster of Sarve made of the Rozen of the long leafed pine, Beas wax and Beare oil mixed, which has Subsided the inflomation entirely, the part is Considerably Swelled and hard-. in the evening Reuben Fields, G. Shannon, Labiech, & Collins returned from the chaise and brought with them five deer and a brown Bear.
Thursday, June 5th, 1806: Colter and Bratten were allowed to visit the Indian Village today to trade for roots and bread. They were lucky and had a good haul. We gave the Indian Chief another sweat today, continuing it as long as he could handle it. In the evening, he was very weak but still improving in his use of his limbs. The child is recovering quickly. I applied a plaster made of resin from the long-leafed pine, beeswax, and bear oil mixed, which has completely reduced the inflammation; the area is still quite swollen and hard. In the evening, Reuben Fields, G. Shannon, Labiech, and Collins returned from the chase and brought back five deer and a brown bear.
Among the Grasses of this Country I observe a large Species which grows in moist Situations; it rises to the hight of Eight or ten feet, the Culm is jointed, hollow, Smooth, as large as a goose quill, and more firm than ordinary grass; the leaf is linner broad and rough; it has much the appearance of the Meadin Cain as it is Called in the Southern parts of the U States, and retains it's virdue untill late in the fall. this grass propegates principally by the Root which is horozontal and perennial.-. a Second Species grows in tussucks and rises to the hight of Six or Eight feet; it Seams to delight in the Soil of the river bottoms which possess agreater mixture of Sand than the hills in this neighbourhood. this is also a harsh Course grass; it appears to be the Same which is Called the Corn grass in the Southern States, and the Foxtail in Virginia. a third Species resembles the cheet, tho the horses feed on it very freely. a fouth and most prevalent Species is a grass which appears to be the Same Called the blue Grass common to maney parts of the United States; it is common to the bottoms as well as the uplands, is now Seeding and is from 9 inches to 2 feet high; it affords an excellent paterage for horses and appears to bear the frost and Snow better than any grass in our Country; I therefore regrete very much that the Seed will not be ripe before our probable departure. this is a fine Soft grass and would no doubt make excellent hay if cultivated. I do not find the Green Sword here which we met with on the lower part of the Columbia. There are also Several Species of the wild Rye to be met with in the praries. among the plants and Shrubs common to our Country I observe here the Seven bark, Wild rose, vineing honey suckle, Sweet willow, red willow, long leafed pine, Cattail or Coopers Flag. Lambs quarter, Strawberries, Raspberries, Goose berries, tongue grass, Mustard, tanzy, Sinquefield, horse mint, water penerial, elder, Coalts foot, Green Plantin, canser weed, Shoemate, and Several of the pea blume flowering plants.-. Frazier who had permission to visit the Twisted Hairs Lodge at the distance of ten or twelve miles did not return this evening-. The river falls in course of the day and rises Some at night as will be Seen by the remarks in the Diary of the weather. this most probably is the melding of the Snows dureing the day &c.
Among the grasses in this area, I notice a large species that grows in wet locations. It reaches a height of eight or ten feet, with a jointed, hollow stem that is smooth, about the size of a goose quill, and sturdier than regular grass. The leaves are long, broad, and rough; it looks very much like meadow cane, as it’s called in the southern parts of the United States, and it keeps its value until late fall. This grass mainly spreads through its horizontal, perennial roots. A second species grows in tussocks and reaches six to eight feet tall; it seems to thrive in the sandy soil of the river bottoms, which has more sand than the hills in this area. This is also a coarse, tough grass; it appears to be the same as what is called corn grass in the southern states, and foxtail in Virginia. A third species looks like cheatgrass, though horses eat it quite freely. The fourth and most common species is grass that seems to be the same as bluegrass, which is common in many parts of the United States; it's found in both lowlands and uplands, is currently seeding, and grows from 9 inches to 2 feet tall. It provides excellent pasture for horses and seems to withstand frost and snow better than any grass in our country. I really regret that the seeds won't be ripe before we possibly leave. This is a fine, soft grass and would likely make excellent hay if cultivated. I don’t see the green sword here that we encountered in the lower part of the Columbia. There are also several species of wild rye found in the prairies. Among the plants and shrubs common to our country, I notice here the seven-bark, wild rose, climbing honeysuckle, sweet willow, red willow, longleaf pine, cattail or Cooper's flag, lambsquarter, strawberries, raspberries, gooseberries, tongue grass, mustard, tansy, sinquefield, horse mint, water perennial, elder, coltsfoot, green plantain, cancer weed, shoemate, and several flowering plants in the pea family. Frazier, who had permission to visit Twisted Hairs Lodge about ten to twelve miles away, did not return this evening. The river drops during the day and rises some at night, as noted in the diary of the weather. This is most likely due to melting snow during the day, etc.
[Lewis, June 6, 1806]
Friday June 6th 1806. This morning Frazier returned having been in quest of some roots and bread which had left at the lodg of the Twisted hair when on his way to the fishery on Lewis's river. the Twisted hair came with him but I was unable to converse with him for the want of an interpreter, Drewyer being absent with Capt. C. This Cheif left me in the evening and returned to his village. Capt C. Visited the Broken Arm today agreeably to his promise; he took with him Drewyer and several others. they were received in a friendly manner. The Broken Arm informed Capt. C. that the nation would not pass the mountain untill the latter end of the summer, and that with rispect to the young men whom we had requested should accompany us to the falls of the Missouri, were not yet scelected for that purpose nor could they be so untill there was a meeting of the nation in counsil. that this would happen in the course of ten or twelve days as the whole of the lodges were about to remove to the head of the Commeap Creek in the plain near Lewis's river, that when they had assembled themselves they would hold a council and scelect the young men. that if we set out previously to that period the men would follow us. we therefore do not calculate on any assistance from them as guides, but depend more upon engageing some of the Ootlashshoots in the neighborhood of Travellers rest C. for that purpose. The broken arm gave Capt. C. a few dryed Quawmas roots as a great present, but in our estimation those of cows are much better, I am confident they are much more healthy. The men who were with Capt. C. obtained a good store of roots and bread in exchange for a number of little notions, using the Yanke phrase, with which their own enginuity had principally furnished them. on examination we find that our whole party have an ample store of bread and roots for our voyage, a circumstance not unpleasing. They retuned at 5 P.M. shortly after which we were visited by Hohastillpilp the two young Cheifs who gave us the horses in behalf of the nation some time since and several others, who remained all night. The Kooskooske is about 150 Yds. wide at this place and discharges a vast body of water; notwithstanding it high state the water remains nearly transparent, and it's temperature appeas to be quite as cold as that of our best springs. we meet with a beautifull little bird in this neighbourhood about the size and somewhat the shape of the large spar-row. it is reather longer in proportion to it's bulk than the sparrow. it measures 7 inches from the extremity of the beek to that of the tail, the latter occupying 21/2 inches. the beak is reather more than half an inch in length, and is formed much like the Virginia nitingale; it is thick and large for a bird of it's size; wide at the base, both chaps convex, and pointed, the uper exceeds the under chap a little is somewhat curved and of a brown colour; the lower chap of a greenish yellow. the eye full reather large and of a black colour both puple and iris. the plumage is remarkably delicate; that of the neck and head is of a fine orrange yellow and red, the latter predominates on the top of the head and arround the base of the beak from whence it graduly deminishes & towards the lower part of the neck, the orrange yellow prevails most; the red has the appearance of being laid over a ground of yellow. the breast, the sides, rump and some long feathers which lie between the legs and extend underneath the tail are of a fine orrange yellow. the tail, back and wings are black, ecept a small stripe of yellow on the outer part of the middle joint of the wing, 1/4 of an inch wide and an inch in length. the tail is composed of twelve feathers of which those in the center are reather shortest, and the plumage of all the feathers of the tail is longest on that side of the quill next the center of the tail. the legs and feet are black, nails long and sharp; it has four toes on each foot, of which three are forward and one behind; that behind is as long as the two outer of the three toes in front.
Friday, June 6, 1806. This morning, Frazier returned after searching for some roots and bread that he had left at the lodge of the Twisted Hair when he was on his way to the fishery at Lewis's River. The Twisted Hair came back with him, but I couldn’t talk to him because I lacked an interpreter; Drewyer was away with Captain C. This chief left me in the evening and went back to his village. Captain C. visited the Broken Arm today, as he promised; he took Drewyer and several others with him. They were welcomed kindly. The Broken Arm told Captain C. that the nation wouldn’t cross the mountains until late summer, and as for the young men we had asked to join us for the trip to the falls of the Missouri, they hadn’t been selected yet and couldn’t be until there was a meeting of the nation in council. This would happen in about ten or twelve days, as all the lodges were planning to move to the head of Commeap Creek, near Lewis's River. Once they gathered, they would hold a council and choose the young men. If we set out before that, the men would follow us. Therefore, we aren’t counting on any help from them as guides but instead hope to engage some of the Ootlashshoots in the vicinity of Traveler’s Rest for that purpose. The Broken Arm gifted Captain C. a few dried Quawmas roots as a significant present, but we think those from cows are much better, and I’m sure they are healthier. The men who were with Captain C. collected a good amount of roots and bread in exchange for a bunch of small items, using the Yankee phrase, which their own ingenuity mostly provided. On inspection, we found that our entire party has plenty of bread and roots for our journey, which is quite pleasing. They returned at 5 P.M., and shortly after, we were visited by Hohastillpilp and two young chiefs who had given us horses on behalf of the nation some time ago, along with several others who stayed the night. The Kooskooske River is about 150 yards wide at this point and carries a huge volume of water; despite its high level, the water remains nearly clear, and its temperature seems to be as cold as that of our best springs. We encountered a beautiful little bird in this area, about the size and somewhat the shape of a large sparrow. It is slightly longer in proportion to its bulk than the sparrow. It measures 7 inches from the tip of the beak to the tip of the tail, with the tail being 2.5 inches long. The beak measures just over half an inch in length and resembles that of the Virginia nightingale; it's thick and large for a bird of its size, wide at the base, both parts curved and pointed, with the upper part slightly longer than the lower and a brown color, while the lower part is a greenish-yellow. The eye is full, rather large, and black, both in the pupil and iris. The plumage is remarkably delicate; the neck and head are a bright orange-yellow and red, with the red dominating the top of the head and around the base of the beak, gradually diminishing towards the lower part of the neck, where orange-yellow is more prominent. The red appears to be laid over a yellow background. The breast, sides, rump, and some long feathers between the legs extending under the tail are a fine orange-yellow. The tail, back, and wings are black, except for a small yellow stripe on the outer part of the middle joint of the wing, a quarter of an inch wide and an inch long. The tail consists of twelve feathers, with the center ones being the shortest, and the plumage on all the tail feathers is longest on the side of the quill nearest the center of the tail. The legs and feet are black, with long, sharp nails; there are four toes on each foot, three pointing forward and one back; the toe at the back is as long as the two outer toes in front.
[Clark, June 6, 1806]
Friday June 6th 1806 I visited the Broken Arm to day agreeable to my promis of the 4th inst. and took with me Drewyer & three other men I was receved in a friendly manner. The broken Arm informed me that maney of the Small chiefs of the different Bands of his nation had not heard our word from our own mouths, Several of them were present and was glad to See me &c. I repeeted in part what had been Said in Council before. The Broken arm told me that the nation would not pass the mountains untill the latter part of the Summer, and with respect to the young men who we had requested to accompany us to the falls of Missouri, were not yet Selected for that purpose nor could they be So untill they had a Meeting of the Nation in Council. that this would happen in the Course of ten or 12 days as the whole of the Lodges were about to Move to the head of Commeap Creek in the Plain of Lewis's river, that when they held a council they would Select two young men. that if we Set out previously to that time the men would follow us. we therefore do not Calculate any assistance from them as guides, but depend more upon engageing Some of the Oatlash-shoots on Clarks river in the neighbouringhood of Travellers rest C. for that purpose. The Broken Arm gave me a fiew Quawmash roots as a great preasent, but in my estimation those of Cows is much better. I am Confident they are much more healthy. The Broken Arm informed me that they had latterly been informed that a party of the Shoshones had arived at the Ye-E-al-po Nation who reside to the South of the enterance of Kooskooske into Lewis's river. and had informed that people that their nation (the Shoshones) had received the talk which was given their relations on the head of the East fork of Lewis's river last fall, and were resolved to pursue our Councils, and had came foward for the purpose of makeing peace with them, and allso with the Chopunnish &c. that they had Sent Several men in Serch of those people with a view to bring them to Lewis's river at which place the Broken Arm informed me he Should meet them and Smoke the pipe of peace. which he Should afterwards Send by with Some of his Chiefs in company with those Shoshones to their nation and confirm a piece which never Should be broken on his part. he produced two pipes one of which he said was as a present to me the other he intended to Send to the Shoshones &c. and requested me to take one, I receved the one made in the fascion of the Country, the other which was of Stone curiously inlaid with Silver in the common form which he got from the Shoshones. I deckorated the Stem of this pipe with blue ribon and white wampom and informed the Chief this was the emblem of peace with us.
Friday, June 6th, 1806. I visited the Broken Arm today as I promised on the 4th and brought Drewyer and three other men with me. I was greeted warmly. The Broken Arm told me that many of the smaller chiefs from various groups of his nation had not heard our message directly from us. Several of them were present and were happy to see me. I repeated in part what had been said in the Council before. The Broken Arm informed me that the nation would not cross the mountains until later in the summer, and regarding the young men we had requested to join us on our journey to the falls of Missouri, they had not yet been selected for that purpose, and they couldn’t be until a meeting of the Nation in Council took place. This was expected to happen in the next ten or twelve days since all the lodges were about to move to the head of Commeap Creek in the Lewis River Plain. When they held a council, they would choose two young men. If we set out before then, the men would follow us. Therefore, we do not expect any help from them as guides but will rely more on hiring some of the Oatlash-shoots by Clark's River near Traveller’s Rest for that purpose. The Broken Arm gave me a few Quawmash roots as a significant gift, but I believe those from Cows are much better and healthier. The Broken Arm also mentioned that they had recently learned that a group of Shoshones had arrived at the Ye-E-al-po Nation, which is south of the entrance of Kooskooske into Lewis's River. They informed that community that their nation (the Shoshones) had received the message given to their relatives at the head of the East Fork of Lewis's River last fall and were determined to follow our counsel. They had come forward with the intention of making peace with them as well as with the Chopunnish, etc. They had sent several men in search of those people to bring them to Lewis's River, where the Broken Arm informed me he would meet them and smoke the peace pipe. He would then send it back with some of his chiefs in company with those Shoshones to their nation, confirming a peace that he vowed would never be broken on his part. He produced two pipes, one of which he said was a gift for me and the other he planned to send to the Shoshones, and requested that I take one. I accepted the one made in the style of the country, while the other, made of stone and intricately inlaid with silver in a typical form, was from the Shoshones. I decorated the stem of this pipe with blue ribbon and white wampum and informed the chief that this was our symbol of peace.
The men who accompanied me obtained a good Store of roots and bread in exchange for a number of little notions, useing the Yanke phrase, with which their own enginuiety had principally furnished them. on examonation we find our whole party have a Sufficient Store of bread and roots for our Voyage. a Circumstance not unpleasing-.
The men who traveled with me collected a good supply of roots and bread in exchange for a bunch of little items, using the Yankee phrase, which their own ingenuity had mostly provided. Upon examination, we find that our entire group has enough bread and roots for our journey. This is quite a pleasing circumstance.
I returned at 4 P. M followed by Hohastillpilp the 2 young Chiefs who gave us the horses in behalf of the nation Some time Sence, the young man who gave us the horse at Collins Creek to kill as we Came up, and Several others. I met the twisted hair and two other indians with Frazier on the opposit bank from our Camp this Morning & Sent him over to our Camp. I met him this evening on his return home. he informed me he could not accompany us across the mountains as his brother was Sick &c.-.
I got back at 4 PM, followed by Hohastillpilp and the two young chiefs who gave us the horses on behalf of the nation some time ago. The young man who gave us the horse at Collins Creek to use as we came up, and several others. I saw the twisted hair and two other Indians with Frazier on the opposite bank from our camp this morning and sent him over to our camp. I encountered him this evening on his way home. He told me he couldn't join us across the mountains because his brother was sick, etc.
[Clark, June 6, 1806]
The Chopunnish call the Crow Indians Up-shar-look-kar
The Chopunnish refer to the Crow Indians as Up-shar-look-kar.
Chopunnish name for Sin-sho-cal Dearbourne R ditto—do—Cal la mar-Sha mosh Meddesons ditto—do—Co-ma win-nim Maria River ditto ditto- Ta-ki-a-ki-a Mescle Shell R ditto—ditto Wah-wo-ko-ye-o-cose is th ____ ditto do—Rockejhone—Elk river
Chopunnish name for Sin-sho-cal Dearbourne R same—do—Cal la mar-Sha mosh Meddesons same—do—Co-ma win-nim Maria River same same- Ta-ki-a-ki-a Mescle Shell R same—same Wah-wo-ko-ye-o-cose is th ____ same do—Rockejhone—Elk river
ditto do—Koos-koos-an-nim-a the little Missouri ditto—do- Walch-Nim-mah—Knife R ditto—do Ni-hi-Sir-te—C. R
ditto do—Koos-koos-an-nim-a the little Missouri ditto—do- Walch-Nim-mah—Knife R ditto—do Ni-hi-Sir-te—C. R
[Lewis, June 7, 1806]
Saturday June 7th 1806. The two young Cheifs who visited last evening returned to their village on Commeap C. with some others of the natives. Sergt. Gass, McNeal, Whitehouse and Goodrich accompanyed them with a view to procure some pack or lash ropes in exchange for parts of an old sain, fish giggs, peices of old iron, old files and some bullets. they were also directed to procure some bags for the purpose of containing our roots & bread. in the evening they all returned except Whitehouse and Goodrich who remained all night. they procured a few strings but no bags. Hohastillpilp passed the river today and brought over a horse which he gave Frazier one of our party who had previously made him a present of a pair of Cannadian shoes or shoe-packs. Drewyer set out on a hunting excurtion up Collins's Creek this evening. we wish to leave the deer in the neighbourhood of the quawmash plains undisturbed untill the 10th when we intend removing thither to lay in some meat for our voyage over the Mountains. our party are much engaged in preparing their saddles arranging their loads provisions &c for our departure. There is a speceis of cherry which grows in this neighbourhood in sitations like the Choke cherry or near the little rivulets and wartercouses. it seldom grows in clumps or from the same cluster of roots as the choke cherry dose. the stem is simple branching reather diffuse stem the cortex is of a redish dark brown and reather smooth. the leaf is of the ordinary dexture and colour of those of most cherries, it is petiolate; a long oval 11/4 inhes in length and 1/2 an inch in width, obtuse, margin so finely serrate that it is scarcely perseptable & smooth. the peduncle is common 1 inch in length, branch proceeding from the extremities as well as the sides of the branches, celindric gradually tapering; the secondary peduncles are about 1/2 an inch in length scattered tho proceeding more from the extremity of the common peduncle and are each furnished with a small bracted. the parts of fructification are much like those discribed of the choke cherry except that the petals are reather longer as is the calix reather deeper. the cherry appears to be half grown, the stone is begining to be hard and is in shape somewhat like that of the plumb; it appears that when ripe it would be as large as the Kentish cherry, which indeed the growth of the bush somewhat resembles; it rises about 6 or 8 feet high
Saturday, June 7, 1806. The two young Chiefs who visited last night returned to their village on Commeap C. with some other locals. Sergeant Gass, McNeal, Whitehouse, and Goodrich accompanied them to try to get some pack or lash ropes in exchange for parts of an old sail, fish gigs, pieces of old iron, old files, and some bullets. They were also instructed to get some bags to carry our roots and bread. In the evening, everyone returned except Whitehouse and Goodrich, who stayed overnight. They managed to get a few strings, but no bags. Hohastillpilp crossed the river today and brought over a horse, which he gave to Frazier, one of our group, who had previously gifted him a pair of Canadian shoes or shoe-packs. Drewyer went out on a hunting trip up Collins's Creek this evening. We want to leave the deer near the quawmash plains undisturbed until the 10th, when we plan to move there to stock up on meat for our journey over the Mountains. Our group is busy preparing their saddles and arranging their loads and provisions for our departure. There’s a type of cherry that grows in this area in places like where choke cherries do, or near small streams and watercourses. It rarely grows in clumps or from the same root cluster like choke cherries do. The stem is simple, branching, and somewhat diffuse, with a reddish dark brown and relatively smooth bark. The leaves have the usual texture and color of most cherries, are petiolate, long oval, about 1¼ inches long and ½ an inch wide, blunt-tipped, with edges that are so finely serrated they are barely noticeable and smooth. The peduncle is typically 1 inch long, branching out from the ends as well as the sides of the branches, cylindrical and gradually tapering; the secondary peduncles are about ½ an inch long, scattered but more commonly coming from the tip of the main peduncle, each with a small bract. The reproductive parts are similar to those of the choke cherry, except that the petals are a bit longer, and the calyx is a bit deeper. The cherry seems to be half-grown; the stone is starting to harden and has a shape somewhat like a plum. It appears that when ripe, it would be as large as a Kentish cherry, which the growth of the bush somewhat resembles, standing about 6 to 8 feet high.
[Clark, June 7, 1806]
Saurday June 7th 1806. The two young cheafs and other Indians who accompanied them Crossed the river and returned to their Village this morning after brackfast; Shabono Sergt Gass McNeal, Whitehouse & Goodrich accompanied them for the purpose of purchaseing or exchangeing old peces of Sane, fish gig, peces of iron, bullets, and old files and Such articles as they Could raise for ropes and Strings for to lash their loads, and bags to Cary their roots in Sergt. Gass, Shabono & McNeal returned at 2 P M haveing precured a String each only. Whitehouse and Goodrich continued at the Village all night. Hohastillpilp crossed the river to day and brought over a horse and gave it to Frazier one of our party who had made him a present previously of a Par of Canidian Shoes. one of our men informed me one of the young Chiefs who had given us two horses already was in Serch of one which he intended to give to me. George Drewyer Set out on a hunting excurtion up Collins's Creek alone. our party are all much engaged in prepareing Sadles and packing up their Stores of Provisions &c.—The Flat Head river is about 150 yards wide at this place and discharges a vast body of water; notwithstanding it's high State the water remains nearly transparent, and it's temperature appears to be quit as cold as that of our best Springs. we met with a butifull little bird in this neighbourhood about the Size and Somewhat the Shape of the large Sparrow. it measures 7 inches from the extremity of the beak to that of the tail, the latter Occupying 21/2 inches. the beak is reather more than half an inch in length, and is formed much like the Virginia Nightingal; red bd. it is thick and large for a bird of it's size, wide at the base, both Chaps convex, and pointed, the upper exceeds the under chap a little is Somewhat cirved and of a brown Colour; the lower chap of a Greenish yellow. the eye full reather large and of a black colour both puple and iris. the plumage is remarkably delicate; that of the neck and head is of a fine orrange yellow and red. the latter predomonates on the top of the head and around the base of the beak from whence it gradually diminishes towards the lower part of the Neck, the orring yellow prevails most, the red has the Appearance of haveing been laid over a Ground of yellow. the breast, the Sides, rump and some long feathers which lie between the legs extend underneath the tail is of a fine orrange yellow. the tail, back and wings are black, except a Small Strip of yellow on the outer part of the Middle joint of the wing, 1/4 of an inch wide and an inch in length. the tail is composed of 12 feathers of which those in the Center are reather Shortest, and the plumage of all the feathers of the tail is longest on that Side of the quill next to the Center of the tail. the legs and feet are black, nails long and Sharp; it has four toes on each foot, of which three are forward and one behind; that behind is as long as the two outer of the three toes in front
Saturday, June 7, 1806. The two young chiefs and other Native Americans who were with them crossed the river and returned to their village this morning after breakfast. Shabono, Sergeant Gass, McNeal, Whitehouse, and Goodrich went with them to buy or trade for old pieces of sinew, fish gigs, pieces of iron, bullets, and old files, as well as other items they could gather for ropes and strings to strap down their loads and bags to carry their roots in. Sergeant Gass, Shabono, and McNeal returned at 2 PM, having only procured a single string each. Whitehouse and Goodrich stayed in the village all night. Hohastillpilp crossed the river today and brought back a horse, which he gave to Frazier, one of our party, who had previously gifted him a pair of Canadian shoes. One of our men informed me that one of the young chiefs who had already given us two horses was looking for another one to give to me. George Drewyer set out on a hunting trip up Collins's Creek alone. Our party is all quite busy preparing saddles and packing up their supplies and provisions, etc. The Flathead River is about 150 yards wide at this point and carries a huge volume of water; despite its high level, the water remains nearly clear, and it feels about as cold as our best springs. We encountered a beautiful little bird in this area, about the size and somewhat the shape of a large sparrow. It measures 7 inches from the tip of the beak to the tail, which is 2.5 inches long. The beak is just over half an inch long and shaped somewhat like a Virginia nightingale's; it is thick and large for a bird of its size, wide at the base, both mandibles convex and pointed, with the upper mandible slightly longer and somewhat curved, colored brown; the lower mandible is a greenish-yellow. The eye is quite large and black, with both pupil and iris. The plumage is remarkably delicate; the neck and head are a fine orange-yellow and red. The red predominates on the top of the head and around the base of the beak, gradually fading toward the lower part of the neck, where the orange-yellow is most prominent, with the red appearing laid over a base of yellow. The breast, sides, rump, and some long feathers underneath the tail are a fine orange-yellow. The tail, back, and wings are black, except for a small strip of yellow on the outer part of the middle joint of the wing, measuring a quarter of an inch wide and an inch long. The tail comprises 12 feathers, with the center ones being the shortest, and the plumage of all the tail feathers is longest on the side of the quill next to the center of the tail. The legs and feet are black, with long, sharp nails; there are four toes on each foot, three pointing forward and one backward; the backward toe is as long as the two outer toes in front.
[Lewis, June 8, 1806]
Sunday June 8th 1806. Drewyer returned this morning from the chase without having killed anything. his hose left him last night, he pursued him but did not overtake him untill he had nearly reached our camp. The sick Cheif is fast on the recovery, he can bear his weight on his legs, and has acquired a considerable portion of strength. the child is nearly well; Bratton has so far recovered that we cannot well consider him an invalid any longer, he has had a tedious illness which he boar with much fortitude and firmness.—The Cutnose visited us today with ten or twelve warriors; two of the latter were Y-e-let-pos a band of the Chopunnish nation residing on the South side of Lewis's river whom we have not previously seen. the band with which we have been most conversent call themselves pel-late-pal-ler. one of the yeletpos exchanged his horse for an indifferent one of ours and received a tomahawk to boot; this tomahawk was one for which Capt. C. had given another in exchange with the Clahclel-lah Chief at the rapids of the Columbia. we also exchanged two other of our indifferent horses with unsound backs for much better horses in fine order without any consideration but the horse itself. several foot rarces were run this evening between the indians and our men. the indians are very active; one of them proved as fleet as Drewer and R. Fields, our swiftest runners. when the racing was over the men divided themselves into two parties and played prison base, by way of exercise which we wish the men to take previously to entering the mountain; in short those who are not hunters have had so little to do that they are geting reather lazy and slouthfull.—after dark we had the violin played and danced for the amusement of ourselves and the indians.—one of the indians informed us that we could not pass the mountains untill the full of the next moon or about the first of July, that if we attempted it sooner our horses would be at least three days travel without food on the top of the mountain; this information is disagreable inasmuch as it causes some doubt as to the time at which it will be most proper for us to set out. however as we have no time to loose we will wrisk the chanches and set out as early as the indians generally think it practicable or the middle of this month.
Sunday, June 8th, 1806. Drewyer came back this morning from hunting without having killed anything. His horse got away from him last night; he tried to catch it but didn't until he was almost at our camp. The sick Chief is recovering quickly; he can put weight on his legs and has gained a good amount of strength. The child is nearly well; Bratton has recovered enough that we can no longer consider him an invalid. He had a long illness that he endured with a lot of courage and strength. The Cutnose visited us today with ten or twelve warriors; two of them were Y-e-let-pos, a group from the Chopunnish nation living on the south side of Lewis's River whom we hadn't seen before. The group we've been most in contact with calls themselves pel-late-pal-ler. One of the Y-e-let-pos traded his horse for a poor-quality one of ours and received a tomahawk as well; this tomahawk was one that Capt. C. had traded for another with the Clahclel-lah Chief at the Columbia rapids. We also traded two other of our horses with bad backs for much better horses in good shape without any other trade involved. Several foot races took place this evening between the Indians and our men. The Indians are very agile; one of them ran as quickly as Drewyer and R. Fields, our fastest runners. After the races, the men split into two groups and played prison base for exercise, which we want the men to do before heading into the mountains. In short, those who aren't hunters have had so little to do that they're getting rather lazy and sluggish. After dark, we played the violin and danced for our own enjoyment and that of the Indians. One of the Indians let us know that we can't cross the mountains until the next full moon, or about the beginning of July, and that if we try to do it sooner, our horses will be at least three days without food on the mountain top. This news is disappointing because it raises some doubts about when it will be best for us to set out. However, since we can't afford to lose time, we'll take the risk and leave as early as the Indians generally think is possible, or by the middle of this month.
[Clark, June 8, 1806]
Sunday June 8th 1806 Drewyer returned this morning from the chase without killing any thing. his horse left him last night and he prosued him near our camp before he cought him. The Sick Chief is much mended, he can bear his weight on his legs and recovers Strength. the Child has nearly recovered. The Cut nose and ten or 12 came over today to visit us, two of those were of the tribes from the plains of Lewis's river whome we had not before Seen; one of those men brought a horse which I gave a tomahawk which I had exchanged for with the Chief of the Clahclahlah's Nation below the Great rapids of Columbia, and broken-down horse which was not able to Cross the mountains. we also exchanged 2 of our indeferent horses for Sound back horses. in the evening Several foot races were run by the men of our party and the Indians; after which our party divided and played at prisoners base untill night. after dark the fiddle was played and the party amused themselves in danceing. one of those Indians informed us that we could not cross the mountains untill the full of the next moon, or about the 1st of July. if we attempted it Sooner our horses would be three days without eateing, on the top of the Mountns. this information is disagreeable to us, in as much as it admits of Some doubt, as to the time most proper for us to Set out. at all events we Shall Set out at or about the time which the indians Seem to be generally agreed would be the most proper. about the middle of this month
Sunday, June 8th, 1806. Drewyer returned this morning from the hunt without bringing anything back. His horse got away from him last night, and he chased it near our camp before he caught it. The sick chief is much better; he can put weight on his legs and is gaining strength. The child is nearly recovered. Cut Nose and ten or twelve others came over to visit us today; two of them were from the tribes by the plains of Lewis's River, whom we hadn't seen before. One of those men brought a horse, which I traded a tomahawk for that I had exchanged with the chief of the Clahclahlah Nation below the Great Rapids of Columbia—it was a broken-down horse that couldn't cross the mountains. We also traded two of our mediocre horses for sound ones. In the evening, several foot races were held by the men from our group and the Indians; after that, our group split up and played prisoners' base until night. After dark, the fiddle was played, and the group enjoyed dancing. One of the Indians informed us that we couldn't cross the mountains until the full moon next month, around July 1st. If we tried to do it sooner, our horses would go three days without eating at the top of the mountains. This information is frustrating for us since it leaves some doubt about the best time for us to leave. In any case, we will set out around the time that the Indians seem to agree would be best, which is about the middle of this month.
[Lewis, June 9, 1806]
Monday June 9th 1806. This morning we had all our horses brought up and indeavoured to exchange five or shix with the Indians in consequence of their having unsound backs but succeeded in exchanging one only. Hohastillpilp with several of the natives who visited us yesterday took leave of us and set out for the plains near Lewis's river where the nation are about to assemble themselves. The broken arm made us a short visit this morning and took leave of us, being about to set out with his village today in order to join the nation at their rendezvouz on Lewis's R. The Cutnose or Neeshneeparkkeeook borrowed a horse and rode down the Kooskooske River a few miles this morning in quest of some young eagles which he intends raising for the benifit of their feathers; he returned soon after with a pair of young Eagles of the grey kind; they were nearly grown and prety well feathered. in the evening the young Chief who gave both Capt. C. and myself a horse some time since, came to our camp with a party of young men and remained all night. this evening one of our party obtained a very good horse for an indifferent one by giving the indian an old leather shirt in addition. we eat the last of our meat yesterday evening and have lived on roots today. our party seem much elated with the idea of moving on towards their friends and country, they all seem allirt in their movements today; they have every thing in readiness for a move, and notwithstanding the want of provision have been amusing themselves very merrily today in runing footraces pitching quites, prison basse &c. the river has been falling for several days and is now lower by near six feet than it has been; this we view as a strong evidence that the great body of snow has left the mountains, though I do not conceive that we are as yet loosing any time as the roads is in many parts extreemly steep rocky and must be dangerous if wet and slippry; a few days will dry the roads and will also improve the grass.
Monday, June 9th, 1806. This morning, we brought all our horses up and tried to trade five or six with the Indians because they had unsound backs, but we only managed to trade one. Hohastillpilp, along with several of the natives who visited us yesterday, said goodbye and headed for the plains near Lewis's River where the tribe is gathering. The Broken Arm made a short visit this morning and also took his leave, planning to set out with his village today to join the tribe at their rendezvous on Lewis's River. The Cutnose, or Neeshneeparkkeeook, borrowed a horse and rode a few miles down the Kooskooske River this morning looking for some young eagles that he plans to raise for their feathers; he returned shortly after with a pair of nearly grown grey young eagles that were pretty well feathered. In the evening, the young Chief who had given both Captain C. and me a horse some time ago came to our camp with a group of young men and stayed all night. Tonight, one of our group managed to get a very good horse in exchange for an average one by giving the Indian an old leather shirt as well. We finished the last of our meat last night and have been living off roots today. Our group seems quite excited about moving toward their friends and homeland, and they are all lively in their movements today; everything is ready for a move. Despite the lack of provisions, they've been entertaining themselves with foot races, pitching quoits, prison base, etc. The river has been falling for several days and is now nearly six feet lower than it has been; we see this as strong evidence that the large amount of snow has melted from the mountains, though I don’t think we are losing any time yet since the roads in many places are extremely steep and rocky, which could be dangerous if wet and slippery. A few days will dry the roads and also improve the grass.
[Clark, June 9, 1806]
Moday June 9th 1806 We had all of our horses brought up and attempted to exchange our Sore back and most indifferent horses with the indians for Sound back horses, we exchanged one only. Hohasillpilp took his leave of us and Set out for the Plains of Lewises river, with Several of the nativs who Visited us yesterday. The broken arm came over and continued a fiew minits with us this morning, and also took his leave of us & Set out with his Village for the plains of Lewis's river. The Cut nose borrowed a horse and rode down the flathead river a fiew miles to take Some young Eagles, which he intends to raise for their feathers. in the evening one of the young Cheifs who had given both Capt Lewis and my Self a horse came to our camp accompanied by 10 of his people and continued with us all night. one of our men exchanged a very indefferent horse for a very good one. our party exolted with the idea of once more proceeding on towards thier friends and Country are elert in all their movements and amuse themselves by pitching quates, Prisoners bast running races &c-.
Monday, June 9, 1806 We gathered all our horses and tried to trade our sore-backed and poor-quality horses with the Indians for healthier ones, but we only managed to make one exchange. Hohasillpilp said goodbye and set off for the Plains of Lewis's River with several of the natives who visited us yesterday. The Broken Arm came over and spent a few minutes with us this morning before also taking his leave and heading out with his village for the Plains of Lewis's River. The Cut Nose borrowed a horse and rode down the Flathead River a few miles to catch some young eagles, which he plans to raise for their feathers. In the evening, one of the young chiefs who had given both Captain Lewis and me a horse came to our camp with 10 of his people and stayed with us all night. One of our men traded a pretty poor horse for a really good one. Our party was excited about the idea of moving on towards their friends and homeland, and they were alert in all their movements, entertaining themselves by pitching quoits, racing prisoners, and so on.
The flat head river is Still falling fast and nearly as low as it was at the time we arrived at this place. this fall of water is what the nativs have informed us was a proper token for us. when this river fell the Snows would be Sufficiently melted for us to Cross the Mountains. the greater length of time we delayed after that time, the higher the grass would grow on th Mountains-.
The Flathead River is still dropping quickly and is almost as low as it was when we first got here. This drop in the water level is what the natives have told us is a good sign for us. When this river goes down, the snow will have melted enough for us to cross the mountains. The longer we wait after that, the taller the grass will grow on the mountains.
[Lewis, June 10, 1806]
Tuesday June 10th 1806. This morning we arrose early and had our horses collected except one of Cruzatt's and one of Whitehouse's, which were not to be found; after a surch of some hours Cruzatt's horse was obtained and the indians promised to find the other and bring it to us at the quawmash flatts where we purpose encamping a few days. at 11 A.M. we set out with the party each man being well mounted and a light load on a second horse, beside which we have several supenemary horses in case of accedent or the want of provision, we therefore feel ourselves perfectly equiped for the mountains. we ascended the river hills which are very high and about three miles in extent our sourse being N. 22° E. thence N. 15 W. 2 m to Collins's creek. thence due North 5 m. to the Eastern border of the quawmash flatts where we encamped near the place we first met with the Chopunnish last fall. the pass of Collins's Creek was deep and extreemly difficult tho we passed without sustaining further injury than weting some of our roots and bread. the country through which we passed is extreemly fertile and generally free of stone, is well timbered with several speceis of fir, long leafed pine and larch. the undergrowth is chooke cherry near the water courses, black alder, a large speceis of redroot now in blume, a growth which resembles the pappaw in it's leaf and which bears a burry with five valves of a deep perple colour, two speceis of shoemate sevenbark, perple haw, service berry, goosburry, a wild rose honeysuckle which bears a white berry, and a species of dwarf pine which grows about ten or twelve feet high. bears a globular formed cone with small scales, the leaves are about the length and much the appearance of the common pitch pine having it's leaves in fassicles of two; in other rispects they would at a little distance be taken for the young plants of the long leafed pine. there are two speceis of the wild rose both quinqui petallous and of a damask red but the one is as large as the common red rose of our gardens. I observed the apples of this speceis last fall to be more than triple the size of those of the ordinary wild rose; the stem of this rose is the same with the other tho the leaf is somewhat larger. after we encamped this evening we sent out our hunters; Collins killed a doe on which we suped much to our satisfaction. we had scarcely reached Collins's Creek before we were overtaken by a party of Indians who informed us that they were going to the quawmash flatts to hunt; their object I beleive is the expectation of bing fed by us in which how ever kind as they have been we must disappoint them at this moment as it is necessary that we should use all frugallaty as well as employ every exertion to provide meat for our journey. they have encamped with us. we find a great number of burrowing squirels about our camp of which we killed several; I eat of them and found them quite as tender and well flavored as our grey squirel. saw many sand hill crains and some ducks in the slashey glades about this place.
Tuesday, June 10th, 1806. This morning we got up early and gathered our horses, except for one from Cruzatt and one from Whitehouse, which we couldn't find. After a search of a few hours, we managed to locate Cruzatt's horse, while the Indians promised to find the other and bring it to us at the quawmash flats, where we plan to camp for a few days. At 11 A.M., we set out with the group, each man well-mounted and with a light load on a second horse, along with several additional horses in case of accidents or food shortages. We felt completely equipped for the mountains. We climbed the river hills, which are very high and extend about three miles, traveling at a bearing of N. 22° E., then N. 15 W. for 2 miles to Collins's Creek. From there, we went due North for 5 miles to the eastern edge of the quawmash flats, where we camped near the spot where we first met the Chopunnish last fall. The pass at Collins's Creek was deep and extremely difficult, but we passed through without suffering any major damage besides getting some of our roots and bread wet. The area we traveled through is very fertile, generally free of rocks, and well-timbered with several species of fir, longleaf pine, and larch. The undergrowth includes chokecherry near the watercourses, black alder, a large species of redroot in bloom, a growth that resembles papaw in its leaves and bears a berry with five petals of a deep purple color, two species of shrubby sevenbark, purple haw, serviceberry, gooseberry, and a wild rose honeysuckle that has white berries, as well as a type of dwarf pine that grows about ten to twelve feet high. It produces a globular cone with small scales, and the leaves are similar in length and appearance to common pitch pine, arranged in clusters of two; otherwise, they could be mistaken for young longleaf pine plants at a distance. There are two species of wild rose, both with five petals and a damask red color, but one is as large as the common red rose found in our gardens. I noticed the apples of this species last fall were more than three times the size of the ordinary wild rose. The stem of this rose is similar to the other, although the leaf is somewhat larger. After we set up camp this evening, we sent out our hunters; Collins killed a doe, which made for a satisfying supper. We had barely reached Collins's Creek when we were approached by a group of Indians who told us they were heading to the quawmash flats to hunt. I believe their intention is to hope for food from us, but although they have been kind, we must disappoint them at this time, as we need to conserve our supplies and make every effort to gather meat for our journey. They've camped with us. We noticed a lot of burrowing squirrels around our camp, of which we killed several; I tried some and found them just as tender and tasty as our gray squirrel. I also saw many sandhill cranes and some ducks in the marshy glades around this area.
[Clark, June 10, 1806]
Tuesday June 10th 1806. rose early this morning and had all the horses Collected except one of Whitehouses horses which could not be found, an Indian promised to find the horse and bring him on to us at the quawmash fields at which place we intend to delay a fiew days for the laying in Some meat by which time we Calculate that the Snows will have melted more off the mountains and the grass raised to a sufficient hight for our horses to live. we packed up and Set out at 11 A M we Set out with the party each man being well mounted and a light load on a 2d horse, besides which we have several supernumary horses in case of accident or the want of provisions, we therefore feel ourselves perfectly equiped for the Mountains. we assended the hills which are very high and about three miles in extent our course being N. 22° E, thence N. 15° W 2 ms. to Collins Creek. Thence North 5 Miles to the Eastern boarders of the Quawmash flatts where we encamped near the place I first met with the Chopunnish Nation last fall. the pass of Collins Creek was deep and extreemly difficult tho we passed without sustaining further injury than wetting some of our roots and bread. The Country through which we passed is extreemly fertile and generally free from Stone, is well timbered with several Species of fir, long leafed pine and Larch. the undergrowth is choke cherry near the watercourses, black alder, a large species of red root now in blume, a Growth which resembles the poppaw in it's leaf and which bears a berry with five valves of a deep purple colour, two species of Shoemate, Seven bark, perple haw, Service berry, Goose berry, wildrose, honey suckle which bears a white berry, and a Species of dwarf pine which grows about 10 or 12 feet high, bears a globarlar formed cone with Small Scales, the leaf is about the length and much the appearance of the pitch pine haveing it's leaves in fassicles of two; in other respects they would at a little distance be taken for the young plants of the long leafed pine. There are two Species of the wild rose both quinque petallous and of a damask red, but the one is as large as the common red rose of our guardens. I observed the apples of these Species last fall to be more than triple the Size of those of the ordinary wild rose; the Stem of this rose is the Same with the other tho the leaf is somewhat larger. after we encamped this evening we Sent out our hunters; Collins killed a doe on which we Suped much to our Satisfaction, we had not reached the top of the river hills before we were overtaken by a party of 8 Indians who informed me that they were gowing to the quawmash flatts to hunt; their object I belive is the expectation of being fed by us in which however kind as they have been we must disappoint them at this moment as it is necessary that we Should use all frugallaty as well as employ every exertion to provide meat for our journey. they have encamped with us. we find a great number of burrowing Squirels about our camp of which we killed Several; I eate of them and found them quit as tender and well flavd. as our grey squirel. Saw many Sand hill crains and Some ducks in the Slashey Glades about this place-.
Tuesday, June 10th, 1806. I woke up early this morning and had all the horses gathered except for one of Whitehouse's horses, which couldn't be found. An Indian promised to locate the horse and bring it to us at the quawmash fields, where we plan to stay for a few days to stock up on some meat. By that time, we believe the snow will have melted more off the mountains, and the grass will have grown high enough for our horses to graze. We packed up and set out at 11 AM. We started with the party, each man riding well-mounted with a light load on a second horse, and we also carried several extra horses in case of accidents or food shortages. Therefore, we feel fully equipped for the mountains. We ascended the hills, which are very steep and about three miles long, our direction being N. 22° E, then N. 15° W for 2 miles to Collins Creek. From there, we headed North for 5 miles to the eastern borders of the Quawmash flats, where we set up camp near the place I first met the Chopunnish Nation last fall. The pass at Collins Creek was deep and extremely challenging, though we managed to pass without suffering any significant damage other than wetting some of our roots and bread. The area we passed through is extremely fertile and mostly free of stones, well-timbered with several types of fir, long-leafed pine, and larch. The undergrowth includes choke cherry near the waterways, black alder, a large type of red root now in bloom, a growth resembling pawpaw in its leaves that bears a deep purple berry with five valves, two types of shoemate, seven-bark, purple haw, serviceberry, gooseberry, wild rose, and honeysuckle, which produces a white berry. There is also a species of dwarf pine that grows about 10 to 12 feet tall, has a globular-shaped cone with small scales, and its leaves are about the length and similar in appearance to pitch pine, with leaves in fascicles of two. From a distance, they could be mistaken for young long-leafed pines. There are two species of wild rose, both with five petals and a damask red color, but one is as large as the common red rose found in our gardens. I noticed the apples of these species last fall were more than triple the size of those from ordinary wild roses; the stem of this rose is the same as the other, though the leaves are somewhat larger. After we set up camp this evening, we sent out our hunters; Collins killed a doe that we enjoyed for supper, which was very satisfying. We hadn’t reached the top of the river hills before a group of 8 Indians caught up with us, telling me they were heading to the quawmash flats to hunt. I believe their intention is to rely on us for food, but even though they’ve been kind, we must disappoint them for now, as it's essential we eat sparingly and exert every effort to secure meat for our journey. They have set up camp with us. We've noticed a large number of burrowing squirrels around our campsite, of which we killed several; I tried them and found them quite tender and flavorful, similar to our gray squirrels. We also saw many sandhill cranes and some ducks in the marshy glades near this area.
[Lewis, June 11, 1806]
Wednesday June 11th 1806. All our hunters were out this morning by daylight; Labuish and Gibson only proved successfull, the former killed a black bear of the brown speceis and a very large buck, the latter also killed a fine fat buck. five of the Indians also turned out and hunted untill noon, when they returned without having killed anything; at three P.M. the left us on their return to ther villages. previous to their departure one of our men exchanged an indifferent horse with one of them for a very good one. in the evening our hunters resumed the chase; as game has become scarce and shye near our camp they were directed to hunt at a greater distance and therefore set out prepared to remain all night and make a mornings hunt in grounds not recently frequented. Whitehouse returned this morning to our camp on the Kooskooske in surch of his horse.—As I have had frequent occasion to mention the plant which the Chopunnish call quawmash I shall here give a more particular discription of that plant and the mode of preparing it for food as practiced by the Chopunnish and others in the vicinity of the Rocky Mountains with whom it forms much the greatest portion of their subsistence. we have never met with this plant but in or adjacent to a piny or fir timbered country, and there always in the open grounds and glades; in the Columbian vally and near the coast it is to be found in small quantities and inferior in size to that found in this neighbourhood and in the high rich flatts and vallees within the rocky mountains. it delights in a black rich moist soil, and even grows most luxuriantly where the land remains from 6 to nine inches under water untill the seed are nearly perfect which in this neighbourhood or on these flats is about the last of this month. neare the river where I had an opportunity of observing it the seed were begining to ripen on the 9th inst. and the soil was nearly dry. it seems devoted to it's particular soil and situation, and you will seldom find it more than a few feet from the inundated soil tho within it's limits it grows very closely in short almost as much so as the bulbs will permit; the radix is a tunicated bulb, much the consistence shape and appearance of the onion, glutanous or somewhat slymy when chewed and almost tasteless and without smell in it's unprepared state; it is white except the thin or outer tunicated scales which are few black and not succulent; this bulb is from the size of a nutmeg to that of a hens egg and most commonly of an intermediate size or about as large as an onion of one years growth from the seed. the radicles are numerous, reather large, white, flexable, succulent and diverging. the foliage consists of from one to four seldom five radicale, linear sessile and revolute pointed leaves; they are from 12 to 18 inches in length and from 1 to 3/4 of an inch in widest part which is near the middle; the uper disk is somewhat groved of a pale green and marked it's whole length with a number of small longitudinal channels; the under disk is a deep glossy green and smooth. the leaves sheath the peduncle and each other as high as the surface of the earth or about 2 inches; they are more succulent than the grasses and less so than most of the fillies hyesinths &c.—the peduncle is soletary, proceeds from the root, is columner, smooth leafless and rises to the hight of 2 or 21/2 feet. it supports from 10 to forty flowers which are each supported by seperate footstalk of 1/2 an inch in length scattered without order on the upper portion of the peduncle. the calix is a partial involucret situated at the base of the footstalk of each flower on the peduncle; it is long thin and begins to decline as soon as the corolla expands. the corolla consists of six long oval, obtusly pointed skye blue or water coloured petals, each about 1 inch in length; the corolla is regular as to the form and size of the petals but irregular as to their position, five of them are placed near ech other pointing upward while one stands horizantally or pointing downwards, they are inserted with a short claw on the extremity of the footstalk at the base of the germ; the corolla is of course inferior; it is also shriveling, and continues untill the seeds are perfect. The stamens are perfect, six in number; the filaments each elivate an anther, near their base are flat on the inside and rounded on the outer terminate in a subulate point, are bowed or bent upwards, inserted on the inner side and on the base of the claws of the petals, below the germ, are equal both with rispect to themselves and the corolla, smooth & membraneous. the Anther is oblong, obtusely pointed, 2 horned or forked at one end and furrowed longitudinally with four channels, the upper and lower of which seem almost to divide it into two loabs, incumbent patent, membranous, very short, naked, two valved and fertile with pollen, which last is of a yellow colour—-the anther in a few hours after the corolla unfoalds, bursts, discharges it's pollen and becomes very minute and shrivled; the above discription of the anther is therefore to be understood of it at the moment of it's first appearance. the pistillum is only one, of which, the germ is triangular reather swolen on the sides, smooth superior, sessile, pedicelled, short in proportion to the corolla atho wide or bulky; the style is very long or longer than the stamens, simple, cilindrical, bowed or bent upwards, placed on the top of the germ, membranous shrivels and falls off when the pericarp has obtained its full size. the stigma is three cleft very minute, & pubescent. the pericarp is a capsule, triangular, oblong, obtuse, and trilocular with three longitudinal valves. the seed so far as I could judge are numerous not very minute and globelar.—soon after the seeds are mature the peduncle and foliage of this plant perishes, the grownd becomes dry or nearly so and the root encreases in size and shortly becomes fit for use; this happens about the middle of July when the natives begin to collect it for use which they continue untill the leaves of the plant attain some size in the spring of the year. when they have collected a considerable quantity of these roots or 20 30 bushels which they readily do by means of stick sharpened at one end, they dig away the surface of the earth forming a circular concavity of 21/2 feet in the center and 10 feet in diameter; they next collect a parsel of split dry wood with which they cover this bason in the grown perhaps a foot thick, they next collect a large parsel of stones of about 4 or 6 lbs. weight which are placed on the dry wood; fire is then set to the wood which birning heats the stones; when the fire has subsided and the stones are sufficiently heated which are nearly a red heat, they are adjusted in such manner in the whole as to form as level a surface as pissible, a small quantity of earth is sprinkled over the stones and a layer of grass about an inch thick is put over the stones; the roots, which have been previously devested of the black or outer coat and radicles which rub off easily with the fingers, are now laid on in a conical pile, are then covered with a layer of grass about 2 or 3 inches thick; water is now thrown on the summit of the pile and passes through the roots and to the hot stones at bottom; some water is allso poared arround the edges of the hole and also finds its way to the hot stones; as soon as they discover from the quantity of steem which issues that the water has found its way generally to the hot stones, they cover the roots and grass over with earth to the debth of four inches and then build a fire of dry wood all over the connical mound which they continue to renew through the course of the night or for ten or 12 hours after which it is suffered to cool two or three hours when the earth and grass are removed and the roots thus sweated and cooked with steam are taken out, and most commonly exposed to the sun on scaffoalds untill they become dry, when they are black and of a sweet agreeable flavor. these roots are fit for use when first taken from the pitt, are soft of a sweetish tast and much the consistency of a roasted onion; but if they are suffered to remain in bulk 24 hour after being cooked they spoil. if the design is to make bread or cakes of these roots they undergo a second process of baking being previously pounded after the fist baking between two stones untill they are reduced to the consistency of dough and then rolled in grass in cakes of eight or ten lbs are returned to the sweat intermixed with fresh roots in order that the steam may get freely to these loaves of bread. when taken out the second time the women make up this dough into cakes of various shapes and sizes usually from 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch thick and expose it on sticks to dry in the sun, or place it over the smoke of their fires.—the bread this prepared if kept free from moisture will keep sound for a great length of time. this bread or the dryed roots are frequently eaten alone by the natives without further preparation, and when they have them in abundance they form an ingredient in almost every dish they prepare. this root is pallateable but disagrees with me in every shape I have ever used it.
Wednesday, June 11th, 1806. All our hunters were out this morning at daybreak; only Labuish and Gibson were successful. Labuish killed a black bear of the brown species and a very large buck, while Gibson also killed a fine, fat buck. Five of the Indians also went out hunting until noon, when they returned without anything to show for it; at 3 PM, they left to go back to their villages. Before their departure, one of our men traded an average horse with one of them for a very good one. In the evening, our hunters resumed the chase; since game has become scarce and timid near our camp, they were instructed to hunt farther away and prepared to stay out all night to hunt in grounds that had not been recently disturbed. Whitehouse returned to our camp on the Kooskooske this morning in search of his horse. As I have often mentioned the plant that the Chopunnish call quawmash, I will provide a more detailed description of this plant and how the Chopunnish and others nearby, especially in the Rocky Mountains, prepare it for food, as it forms a significant part of their diet. We have only seen this plant in or near areas with pine or fir trees, always in open grounds and glades. In the Columbia Valley and near the coast, it is found in smaller quantities and is smaller than what is found in this area and in the rich, high flatlands and valleys within the Rocky Mountains. It thrives in black, rich, moist soil and even grows very well in areas that are submerged 6 to 9 inches underwater until the seeds are nearly mature, which happens in this area around the end of this month. Near the river, where I observed it, the seeds were beginning to ripen on the 9th, and the soil was nearly dry. It seems to be deeply connected to its specific soil and location, and you will usually not find it more than a few feet from the flooded soil, although within its range, it grows very densely, almost as much as the bulbs will allow. The root is a bulb, similar in shape and appearance to an onion, glutinous or somewhat slimy when chewed, and nearly tasteless and odorless when unprepared. It is white, except for the few black, thin outer scales that are not juicy; this bulb ranges from the size of a nutmeg to that of a hen's egg, though it is most commonly about the size of an onion that has grown for one year from the seed. The roots are numerous, relatively large, white, flexible, juicy, and diverging. The foliage consists of one to four, rarely five, linear, sessile, and revolute pointed leaves; they range from 12 to 18 inches in length and are 3/4 of an inch wide at the widest point, which is near the middle. The upper surface is pale green with a series of small longitudinal grooves running the entire length, while the underside is a deep, glossy green and smooth. The leaves sheath the stem and each other up to about 2 inches above the ground. They are more succulent than grasses but less so than most of the hyacinths, etc. The stem is solitary, arises from the root, is columnar, smooth, and leafless, and can reach heights of 2 to 2.5 feet. It supports 10 to 40 flowers, each on a separate 1/2-inch-long stalk, scattered irregularly at the upper part of the stem. The calyx is a partial involucre situated at the base of the stalk of each flower; it is long and thin, beginning to fade as soon as the petals open. The corolla consists of six long oval, bluntly pointed sky-blue or water-colored petals, each about 1 inch long; the corolla has a regular shape and size of the petals but an irregular position, with five of them close together pointing upwards while one points horizontally or downwards, attached with a short claw at the base of the ovary. The corolla is inferior; it shrivels and continues until the seeds are mature. The stamens are perfect, six in number; each filament supports an anther that is flat on the inside and rounded on the outside, tapering to a point, and bends upward, inserted on the inner side at the base of the petal claws, below the ovary. They are equal in relation to one another and the corolla, smooth and membranous. The anther is oblong, bluntly pointed, two-horned or forked at one end, and has four longitudinal grooves that nearly divide it into two lobes, is upright, thin, and very short, with no covering, valved, and fertile with yellow pollen. The anther bursts shortly after the petals unfurl, releasing pollen and shriveling to a small size. Thus, the above description refers to the anther at the moment it first appears. There is only one pistil, with the ovary being triangular, somewhat swollen on the sides, smooth, superior, short compared to the corolla, though wide and bulky. The style is very long, longer than the stamens, simple, cylindrical, curved upward, placed on top of the ovary, membranous, shrivels, and falls off once the fruit has reached full size. The stigma is three-lobed, very small, and fuzzy. The fruit is a capsule, triangular, elongated, blunt, and has three compartments with three longitudinal valves. The seeds, as far as I could tell, are numerous, not very small, and round. Soon after the seeds mature, the stem and leaves of this plant die off, the ground dries out or nearly does, and the root increases in size, soon becoming suitable for use; this happens around the middle of July when the natives start collecting it for their use, which they continue until the plant's leaves grow to a noticeable size the following spring. After collecting a significant amount of these roots, about 20 to 30 bushels—which they do easily with sharpened sticks—they dig away the surface of the ground to create a circular hole, 2.5 feet deep in the center and 10 feet in diameter. They then gather a bunch of split dry wood and cover this pit with about a foot-thick layer of wood; they also collect a large pile of stones weighing around 4 to 6 pounds, which they place on top of the dry wood. Fire is then set to the wood, heating the stones. Once the flames die down and the stones are sufficiently heated, nearly to red-hot, they are arranged to create as level a surface as possible. A small amount of soil is sprinkled over the stones, followed by a layer of grass about an inch thick on top of the stones. The roots, which have been previously stripped of their black outer skin and roots that easily rub off with the fingers, are laid on in a conical pile and then covered with a 2 to 3-inch thick layer of grass. Water is poured over the top of the pile, trickling through the roots down to the hot stones below; some water is also poured around the edges of the pit, finding its way to the stones. Once they see enough steam rising to know that the water has reached the hot stones, they cover the roots and grass with about four inches of earth and then build a fire of dry wood over the conical mound, continuously replenishing it throughout the night or for about 10 to 12 hours. After that, it is left to cool for two to three hours, at which point the earth and grass are removed, and the roots, now cooked by the steam, are taken out and typically left out to dry in the sun on scaffolds until they become dry and black, with a sweet, pleasant flavor. These roots are good to eat when first taken from the pit; they are soft, have a sweet taste, and are similar in texture to a roasted onion. However, if they are allowed to sit in bulk for 24 hours after cooking, they spoil. If they plan to make bread or cakes from these roots, they undergo a second baking process, having been pounded after the first baking between two stones until they reach a dough-like consistency, then rolled in grass into cakes weighing eight to ten pounds, mixed with fresh roots so that steam can circulate through these bread loaves. Once taken out a second time, the women shape this dough into cakes of various sizes, usually 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch thick, and dry them on sticks in the sun or place them over the smoke of their fires. This bread, when kept dry, can last a long time. The bread or dried roots are often eaten alone by the natives without any further preparation, and when they have plenty, they are included in almost every dish they prepare. This root is palatable but does not agree with me in any form I have tried.
[Clark, June 11, 1806]
Wednesday June 11th 1806 All of our hunters were out by daylight this Morning. Labeech and Shann was the only Suckcessull hunters, Labeech killed a Black bear and a large buck, and Gibson killed a very fat Buck. five of the indians also turned out and hunted untill near Meridn. without having killed any thing. at 3 P M they all packed up and returned to their village. one of our men exchanged an indifferent horse for a verey good one with those people before they left us. in the evening all our hunters turned out in different directions with a view to find some probable Spot of killing deer and were directed to lay out all night and hunt in the morning early. Whitehouse returned this morning to our camp on the Kooskooske in Serch of his horse.
Wednesday, June 11th, 1806 All our hunters were out at daylight this morning. Labeech and Shann were the only successful hunters; Labeech killed a black bear and a large buck, while Gibson took down a very fat buck. Five of the Indians also went out and hunted until nearly noon but didn't manage to kill anything. At 3 PM, they all packed up and returned to their village. One of our men traded an average horse for a very good one with those people before they left. In the evening, all our hunters went out in different directions to find a good spot for deer and were instructed to camp out all night and hunt early in the morning. Whitehouse returned to our camp on the Kooskooske this morning in search of his horse.
As I have had frequent occasion to mention the plant which the Chopunnish and other nations of the Columbia call Quawmash I Shall here give a more particular discription of that plant and the mode of prepareing it for food as practiced by the Chopinnish and others in the vicinity of the Rocky Mountains with whome it forms much the greatest portion of their Subsistence. we have never met with this plant but in or adjacent to a piney or fir timbered Country, and there always in the open grounds and glades; in the Columbian Vally and near the Coast it is to be found in small quantities and inferior in Size to that found in this neighbourhood or on those high rich flatts and vallies within the rocky moun-tains. it delights in a black rich moist Soil, and even grows most luxuriently where the lands remain from 6 to 9 inches under water untill the seed are nearly perfect, which in this neighbourhood or on those flatts is about the last of this month. near the river where I had an oppertunity of observing it, the Seed were beginning to ripen on the 9th inst. and the Soil was nearly dry. it seems devoted to it's particular Soil and Situation, and you will Seldom find more than a fiew feet from an inundated Soil tho within it's limits it grows very closely. in short almost as much so as the bulbs will permit. the radix is a tumicated bulb, much the consistence Shape and appearance of the Onion, glutinous or somewhat Slymey when chewed and almost tasteless and without smell in it's unprepared state; it is white except the thin or outer tumicated scales which are flew black and not Suculent; this bulb is from the Size of a nutmeg to that of a hen egg and most commonly of an intermediate size or about as large as a common onion of one years growth from the Seed. the radicles are noumerous, reather large, white, flexeable, Succulent and deviding the foliage consists of from one to four seldom five radicals, liner Sessile and revolute pointed leaves; they are from 12 to 18 inches in length and from 1 to 3/4 of an inch in widest part which is nearest the middle; the upper disk is Somewhat groved of a pale green and marked it's whole length with a number of Small longitudinal channels; the under disk is of a deep glossy green and Smooth. the leaves sheath the peduncle and each other as high as the Surface of the earth or about 2 inches; they are more succulent than the grasses and less so than most of the lillies hyisinths &c.—the peduncle is soletary, proceeds from the root, is columner, smooth and leafless and rises to the hight of 2 or 21/2 feet. it supports from 10 to 40 flowers which are each surported by a Seperate footstalk of 1/2 an inch in length scattered without order on the upper portion of the peduncle. the calix is a partial involucre or involucret Situated at the base of the footstalk of each flower on the peduncle; it is long thin and begins to decline as soon as the corrolla expands. the corolla consists of five long oval obtusely pointed Skye blue or water coloured petals, each about 1 inch in length; the Corolla is regular as to the form and size of the petals but irregular as to their position, five of them are placed near each other pointing upwards while one stands horozontially, or pointing downwards, they are inserted with a Short Claw on the extremity of the footstalk at the base of the germ; the corolla is of course inferior; it is also shriveling, and continues untill the Seed are perfect. The Stamens are perfect, Six in number; the falaments each elivate an anther, near their base are flat on the inner side and rounded on the outer, termonate in a subulate point, and bowed or bent upwards inserted on the inner Side and on the base of the Claws of the petals, below the germ, are equal both with respect to themselves and the Corolla, Smooth membranous. the Anther is oblong obtusely pointed, 2 horned or forked at one end and furrowed longitudinally with four channels, the upper and lower of which Seem almost to divide it into two loabs, incumbent, patent, membranous, very short, necked, two valved and fertile with pollen, which last is of a yellow colour. the Anther in a fiew hours after the Corolla unfoalds, bursts discharges it's pollen and becomes very manute and chrivled; the above discription of the Anther is therefore to be understood of it, at the moment of it's first appearance. the pistillum is only one, of which the Germ is triangular reather Swolen on the Sides, Smooth, Superior, Sessile, pedicelled, Short in proportion to the Corolla tho wide or bulky; the Style is very long or longer than the stamens, simple, cilindrical, bowed or bent upwards, placed on the top of the germ, membranous shrivels and falls off when the pericarp has obtained it's full Size.
As I've often mentioned the plant that the Chopunnish and other tribes in the Columbia call Quawmash, I will now provide a more detailed description of this plant and how the Chopunnish and others in the Rocky Mountains prepare it for food, as it makes up a significant part of their diet. We have only encountered this plant in or near pine or fir forests, always in open areas and clearings. In the Columbia Valley and near the coast, it can be found in smaller quantities and is smaller than the varieties found in this area or on the rich, high plains and valleys within the Rocky Mountains. It thrives in black, rich, moist soil and grows especially well in areas that are 6 to 9 inches underwater until the seeds are nearly ready, which, around here, happens toward the end of this month. Near the river, where I had the chance to observe it, the seeds were beginning to ripen on the 9th, and the soil was almost dry. It seems dedicated to its specific soil and location, and you won’t usually find it more than a few feet from flooded soil, although it grows quite densely within those limits. In short, almost as closely as the bulbs will allow. The root is a bulb with a similar shape and consistency to an onion, glutinous or somewhat slimy when chewed and nearly tasteless and odorless when unprocessed; it is white except for the thin outer layers which are dark brown and not juicy. This bulb varies in size from that of a nutmeg to that of a hen's egg, and most commonly it's about the size of a typical one-year-old onion grown from seed. The roots are numerous, quite large, white, flexible, succulent, and divide into the foliage consisting of one to four, sometimes five, linear, sessile, and slightly curled leaves. They range from 12 to 18 inches in length and from 1 to ¾ of an inch at their widest point, which is near the middle. The upper surface is somewhat grooved, pale green, and has several small longitudinal channels running along its length. The underside is a deep glossy green and smooth. The leaves sheath the flower stem and each other up to the surface of the earth, about 2 inches high; they are more succulent than grasses but less so than most lilies and hyacinths. The flower stem is solitary, grows from the root, is columnar, smooth, and leafless, rising to a height of 2 to 2.5 feet. It supports between 10 to 40 flowers, each on a separate stalk about half an inch long, scattered irregularly at the upper part of the flower stem. The calyx is a partial involucre located at the base of each flower’s stalk; it is long, thin, and begins to decline as soon as the corolla opens. The corolla has five long oval, blunt-tipped, sky-blue or water-colored petals, each about 1 inch long; while the petals are symmetrical in form and size, their positions are irregular—five are close together pointing upward, while one is horizontal or pointing downward. They are attached with a short claw at the end of the stalk, at the base of the germ; the corolla is thus inferior, shriveling as it continues until the seeds are mature. There are six perfect stamens; the filaments each support an anther that is flat on the inner side and rounded on the outer side near the base, terminating in a sharp point and bending upwards, attached to the inner side and base of the claws of the petals, below the germ. They are equal to one another and to the corolla, smooth and membranous. The anther is oblong, blunt-tipped, forked at one end, and has four longitudinal furrows; the upper and lower furrows nearly divide it into two lobes, being incumbent, open, membranous, very short, necked, two-valved, and fertile with pollen, which is yellow. A few hours after the corolla unfolds, the anther bursts, releasing its pollen and becoming very small and shriveled; the description above of the anther applies at the moment of its first appearance. There is only one pistil, with the germ being triangular and somewhat swollen on the sides, smooth, superior, sessile, and short in proportion to the corolla but wide or bulky; the style is very long, longer than the stamens, simple, cylindrical, curved upwards, sitting on top of the germ, membranous, shriveling, and falling off once the pericarp reaches its full size.
the Stigma is three clefts very manute and pubescent. the pericarp is a capsule, triangular, oblong, obtuse, and trilocular with three longitudinal valves. the Seed So far as I could judge are noumerous not very manute and globilar.—Soon after the seed are mature the peduncle and foliage of this plant perishes, the ground becoms dry or nearly so and the root increases in size and shortly become fit for use; this happens about the middle of July when the nativs begin to collect it for use which they continue untill the leaves of the plant obtain Some Size in the Spring of the year. when they have Collected a considerable quantity of these roots or 20 or 30 bushels which they readily do by means of Sticks Sharpened at one end, they dig away the surface of the earth forming a cercular concavity of 21/2 feet in the center and 10 feet in diameter; they next collect a parcel of dry split wood with which they cover this bason from the bottom perhaps a foot thick, they next collect a parcel of Stones from 4 to 6 lb. weight which are placed on the dry wood; fire is then Set to the wood which burning heats the Stones; when the fire has subsided and the Stones are sufficiently heated which are nearly a red heat, they are adjusted in such manner in the hole as to form as leavel a Surface as possible, a small quantity of earth is Sprinkled over the Stones, and a layer of grass about an inch thick is laid over the Stone; the roots which have been previously devested of the black or outer coat and radicles which rub off easily with the fingers, are now laid on in a circular pile, are then covered with a layer of grass about 2 or 3 inches thick; water is then thrown on the Summit of the pile and passes through the roots and to the hot Stones at bottom; Some water is also pored around the edges of the hole, and also find it's way to the hot Stones. they cover the roots and grass over with earth to the debth of four inches and then build a fire of dry wood all over the Connical mound which they Continue to renew through the course of the night or for 10 or 12 hours, after which it is Suffered to cool, 2 or three hours, when the earth and grass are removed. and the roots thus Sweated are cooled with Steam or taken out, and most commonly exposed to the Sun on Scaffolds untill they become dry. when they are black and of a Sweet agreeable flavor. these roots are fit for use when first taken from the pitt, are Soft of a Sweetish taste and much the consistancy of a roasted onion; but if they are Suffered to remain in bulk 24 hours after being cooked they Spoil. if the design is to make bread or cakes of those roots they undergo a Second preperation of baking being previously pounded after the first baking between two Stones untill they are reduced to the consistancy of dough and then rolled in grass in cakes of 8 or 10 pounds, are returned to the Sweat intermixes with fresh roots in order that the steam may get freely to those loaves of bread. when taken out the Second time the Indn. woman make up this dough into cakes of various Shapes and Sizes, usually from 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch thick and expose it on sticks to dry in the Sun, or place it over the smoke of their fires.—The bread thus prepared if kept free from moisture will Sound for a great length of time. this bread or the dryed roots are frequently eaten alone by the nativs without further preperation, and when they have them in abundance they form an ingrediant in almost every dish they prepare. this root is palateable but disagrees with us in every shape we have ever used it. the nativs are extreemly fond of this root and present it their visiters as a great treat. when we first arrived at the Chopunnish last fall at this place our men who were half Starved made So free a use of this root that it made them all Sick for Several days after.
The stigma has three small, hairy splits. The pericarp is a capsule that is triangular, oblong, blunt, and has three chambers with three long valves. The seeds, as far as I can tell, are numerous, not very small, and round. Soon after the seeds mature, the stalk and leaves of this plant die off, the ground becomes dry or almost dry, and the root grows in size, making it ready for use; this occurs around mid-July when the natives start to gather it, continuing until the leaves of the plant start to grow in the spring. When they have collected a significant amount of roots, usually about 20 to 30 bushels, they easily do so using sticks sharpened at one end. They dig away the surface of the earth to create a circular depression about 2.5 feet deep and 10 feet in diameter. Next, they gather a bunch of dry split wood, covering the bottom of this basin with it, perhaps a foot thick. Then they collect stones weighing 4 to 6 pounds, which they place on the dry wood; a fire is set to the wood, which heats the stones. Once the fire dies down and the stones are sufficiently heated, nearly to a red heat, they arrange the stones in the hole to create the flattest possible surface. A small amount of earth is sprinkled over the stones, and a layer of grass about an inch thick is placed over them. The roots, which have had their black outer coat and small roots easily rubbed off with fingers, are then placed in a circular pile and covered with another layer of grass about 2 to 3 inches thick. Water is poured over the top of the pile to soak through the roots and reach the hot stones underneath; some water is also poured around the edges of the hole, making its way to the hot stones. They cover the roots and grass with four inches of earth and then build a fire of dry wood over the conical mound, which they keep renewing throughout the night for about 10 to 12 hours. After that, they allow it to cool for 2 or 3 hours before removing the earth and grass. The roots, now steamed, are cooled with steam or taken out and are usually spread out in the sun on scaffolds until they dry. When dried, they turn black and have a sweet, pleasant flavor. The roots are good for use right after coming from the pit; they are soft and have a sweetish taste, similar in texture to a roasted onion. However, if left in bulk for 24 hours after cooking, they spoil. If they intend to make bread or cakes from these roots, they undergo a second preparation of baking, first being pounded between two stones until they reach dough consistency, then rolled in grass into 8 or 10-pound cakes and returned to the steam, mixed with fresh roots for the steam to flow freely to the dough. When taken out the second time, the Native women shape the dough into cakes of various shapes and sizes, usually between 0.5 and 0.75 inches thick, and place them on sticks to dry in the sun or hold them over the smoke from their fires. The bread made this way, if kept dry, can last for a long time. This bread, or the dried roots, is often eaten alone by the natives without further preparation, and when they have plenty of it, it is an ingredient in nearly every dish they make. The root is tasty but does not agree with us in any form we have tried. The natives are extremely fond of this root and present it to their visitors as a special treat. When we first arrived at the Chopunnish last fall, our men, who were half-starved, consumed so much of this root that it made them all sick for several days afterward.
[Lewis, June 12, 1806]
Thursday June 12th 1806. All our hunters except Gibson returned about noon; none of them had killed anything except Sheilds who brought with him two deer. in the evening they resumed their hunt and remained out all night. an indian visited us this evening and spent the night at our camp. Whitehouse returned with his horse at 1 P.M. the days are now very warm and the Musquetoes our old companions have become very troublesome. The Cutnose informed us on the 10th before we left him that two young men would overtake us with a view to accompany me to the falls of the Missouri. nothing interesting occurred in the course of this day. our camp is agreeably situated in a point of timbered land on the eastern border of an extensive level and beautiful) prarie which is intersected by several small branches near the bank of one of which our camp is placed. the quawmash is now in blume and from the colour of its bloom at a short distance it resembles lakes of fine clear water, so complete is this deseption that on first sight I could have swoarn it was water.
Thursday, June 12, 1806. All our hunters except Gibson came back around noon; none of them had caught anything except Shields, who brought back two deer. In the evening, they went out hunting again and stayed out all night. An Indian visited us this evening and spent the night at our camp. Whitehouse returned with his horse at 1 PM. The days are now very warm, and the mosquitoes, our old companions, have become quite bothersome. Cutnose informed us on the 10th, before we left him, that two young men would catch up with us intending to accompany me to the falls of the Missouri. Nothing interesting happened today. Our camp is nicely located in a wooded area on the eastern edge of a vast level and beautiful prairie, which is crossed by several small streams, near one of which our camp is set up. The quawmash is now in bloom, and from a distance, its color makes it look like clear lakes, so convincing is this illusion that at first sight, I could have sworn it was water.
[Clark, June 12, 1806]
Thursday June 12th 1806. All our hunters except Gibson returned about noon; none of them had killed any thing except Shields who brought with him two deer. in the evening they resumed their hunt and remained out all night. an Indian visited us this evening and Spent the night at our Camp. Whitehouse returned with his horse at 1 P.M. the days are very worm and the Musquetors our old Companions have become very troublesom.
Thursday, June 12, 1806. All our hunters except Gibson came back around noon; none of them had caught anything except for Shields, who brought back two deer. In the evening, they went back out to hunt and stayed out all night. An Indian visited us this evening and spent the night in our camp. Whitehouse returned with his horse at 1 P.M. The days are very warm, and the mosquitoes, our old companions, have become really bothersome.
The Cutnose informed us on the 10th before we left him that two young Chiefs would overtake us with a view to accompany us to the Falls of the Missouri and probably to the Seat of our Governmt. nothing interesting occured in the course of this day. our camp is agreeably Situated in a point of timbered land on the eastern borders of an extensive leave) and butifull prarie which is intersected by Several Small branches near the bank of one of which our Camp is placed. the quawmash is now in blume at a Short distance it resembles a lake of fine clear water, So complete is this deseption that on first Sight I could have Sworn it was water.
The Cutnose told us on the 10th, before we left him, that two young chiefs would catch up with us to join us on our journey to the Falls of the Missouri and possibly to the seat of our government. Nothing interesting happened throughout the day. Our camp is nicely located on a point of wooded land along the eastern edge of a vast and beautiful prairie, which is crossed by several small streams; our camp is set near the bank of one of them. The quawmash is now in bloom; from a distance, it looks like a lake of clear water. The illusion is so convincing that at first glance, I could have sworn it was water.
[Lewis, June 13, 1806]
Friday June 13th 1806. Reubin Feilds and Willard were ordered to proceed on our road to a small prarie 8 miles distant on this side of Collins's Creek and there hunt until our arrival; they departed at 10 A.M. about noon seven of our hunters returned with 8 deer; they had wounded several others and a bear but did not get them. in the evening Labuish and Cruzatte returned and reported that the buzzards had eaten up a deer which they had killed butchered and hung up this morning. The indian who visited us yesterday exchanged his horse for one of ours which had not perfectly recovered from the operation of castration and received a small ax and a knife to boot, he seemed much pleased with his exchange and set out immediately to his village, as if fearfull that we would cansel the bargain which is customary among themselves and deemed only fair. we directed the meat to be cut thin and exposed to dry in the sun. we made a digest of the Indian Nations West of the Rocky Mountains which we have seen and of whom we have been repeated informed by those with whom we were conversent. they amount by our estimate to 69,000
Friday, June 13, 1806. Reubin Fields and Willard were instructed to head towards a small prairie 8 miles away, this side of Collins's Creek, and hunt until we arrived; they left at 10 A.M. By noon, seven of our hunters returned with 8 deer; they had also wounded several others and a bear, but didn’t manage to get them. In the evening, Labuish and Cruzatte came back and reported that the buzzards had eaten a deer they had killed, butchered, and hung up that morning. The Indian who visited us yesterday traded his horse for one of ours that hadn’t fully recovered from being castrated, and he also received a small axe and a knife. He seemed very pleased with the trade and set off immediately for his village, as if worried that we would cancel the deal, which is a common practice among them and considered fair. We ordered the meat to be sliced thin and dried in the sun. We compiled a summary of the Indian Nations west of the Rocky Mountains that we have encountered and about whom we have received repeated information from those we were in contact with. By our estimation, they number around 69,000.
[Clark, June 13, 1806]
Friday June 13th 1806. Ordered Rubin Fields and Willard to proceed on to a Small prarie in the Mountains about 8 miles and there hunt untill we arrive the Set out at 10 A.M. Soon after they Set out all of our hunters returned each with a deer except Shields who brought two in all 8 deer. Labeech and P. Crusatt went out this morning killed a deer & reported that the buzzds. had eate up the deer in their absence after haveing butchered and hung it up. The indian who visited us yesterday exchanged his horse with one of our party for a very indiferant one in which exchange he rcived a Small ax a Knife &c. Soon after he had exchanged he returned to his village well Satisfied. we caused the meat to be cut thin and dried in the sun. I make a list of the Indian Nations their place of residence, and probable number of Soles of each nation from estimation and indian information &c.
Friday, June 13th, 1806. I instructed Rubin Fields and Willard to head to a small prairie in the mountains about 8 miles away and to hunt until we arrived. They left at 10 A.M. Shortly after their departure, all our hunters returned, each with a deer except for Shields, who brought back two, making a total of 8 deer. Labeech and P. Crusatt went out this morning, killed a deer, and reported that the buzzards had eaten the deer in their absence after they had butchered and hung it up. The Indian who visited us yesterday traded his horse with one of our party for a rather poor one, and in that exchange, he received a small axe, a knife, etc. Soon after he made the trade, he returned to his village very satisfied. We had the meat cut thin and dried in the sun. I made a list of the Indian nations, their places of residence, and the estimated number of souls in each nation based on estimations and information from Indians, etc.
[Lewis, June 14, 1806]
Saturday June 14th 1806. Sent our hunters out early this morning. Colter killed a deer and brought it in by 10 A.M. the other hunters except Drewyer returned early without having killed anything. Drewyer returned. we had all our articles packed up and made ready for an early departure in the morning. our horses were caught and most of them hubbled and otherwise confined in order that we might not be detained. from hence to traveller's rest we shall make a forsed march; at that place we shal probably remain one or two days to rest ourselves and horses and procure some meat. we have now been detained near five weeks in consequence of the snows; a serious loss of time at this delightfull season for traveling. I am still apprehensive that the snow and the want of food for our horses will prove a serious imbarrassment to us as at least four days journey of our rout in these mountains lies over hights and along a ledge of mountains never intirely destitute of snow. every body seems anxious to be in motion, convinced that we have not now any time to delay if the calculation is to reach the United States this season; this I am detirmined to accomplish if within the compass of human power.
Saturday, June 14th, 1806. We sent our hunters out early this morning. Colter killed a deer and brought it in by 10 A.M. The other hunters, except Drewyer, returned early without having killed anything. Drewyer came back. We had all our gear packed up and ready for an early departure in the morning. Our horses were caught, and most of them were hobbled and otherwise confined so we wouldn’t be delayed. From here to Traveler’s Rest, we will make a forced march; we will probably stay there for a day or two to rest ourselves and the horses and to get some meat. We have now been stuck here for nearly five weeks because of the snow, which is a serious loss of time during this lovely season for traveling. I’m still worried that the snow and lack of food for our horses will prove to be a major challenge for us, as at least four days of our route in these mountains goes over heights and along a ridge that is never completely free of snow. Everyone seems eager to move, convinced that we can’t delay any longer if we want to reach the United States this season; I am determined to accomplish this if it’s within human capability.
[Clark, June 14, 1806]
Saturday June 14th 1806 Sent out Hunters this morning Colter killed a deer and brought it in by 10 A M Drewyer did not return untill night he wounded deer but could get none &c ____ neither of the other hunters killed nothing. we had our articles packed up ready for a Start in the morning, our horses Collected and hobble that they may not detain us in the morning. we expect to Set out early, and Shall proceed with as much expedition as possible over those Snowey tremendious mountains which has detained us near five weeks in this neighbourhood waiting for the Snows to melt Sufficent for us to pass over them. and even now I Shudder with the expectation with great dificuelties in passing those Mountains, from the debth of Snow and the want of grass Sufficient to Subsist our horses as about 4 days we Shall be on the top of the Mountain which we have every reason to beleive is Covered with Snow the greater part of the year.
Saturday, June 14th, 1806 Sent out hunters this morning. Colter killed a deer and brought it in by 10 A.M. Drewyer didn't return until night; he wounded a deer but couldn’t catch it, and neither of the other hunters got anything. We had our supplies packed up and ready to start in the morning, with our horses gathered and hobbled so they wouldn't slow us down in the morning. We expect to set out early and will proceed as quickly as possible over those snowy, enormous mountains that have kept us in this area for nearly five weeks while we waited for the snow to melt enough for us to cross. Even now, I dread the difficulties we’ll face passing those mountains, given the depth of the snow and the lack of grass to feed our horses, as we’ll be at the top of the mountain in about four days, which we have every reason to believe is covered with snow for most of the year.
[Lewis, June 15, 1806]
Sunday June 15th 1806. We had some little difficulty in collecting our horses this morning they had straggled off to a greater distance than usual. it rained very hard in the morning and after collecting our horses we waited for it to abait, but as it had every appearance of a settled rain we set out at 10 A.M. we passed a little prarie at the distance of 81/2 me. to which we had previously sent R. Feilds and Willard. we found two deer which they had killed and hung up. at the distance of 21/2 miles further we arrived at Collins's Creek where we found our hunters; they had killed another deer, and had seen two large bear together the one black and the other white. we halted at the creek, dined and graized our horses. the rains have rendered the road very slippery insomuch that it is with much difficulty our horses can get on several of them fell but sustained no injury. after dinner we proceeded up the creek about 1/2 a mile, passing it three times, thence through a high broken country to an Easterly fork of the same creek about 101/2 miles and incamped near a small prarie in the bottom land the fallen timber in addition to the slippry roads made our march slow and extreemly laborious on our horses. the country is exceedingly thickly timbered with long leafed pine, some pitch pine, larch, white pine, white cedar or arborvita of large size, and a variety of firs. the undergrowth principally reed root from 6 to 10 feet high with all the other speceis enumerated the other day. the soil is good; in some plaices it is of a red cast like our lands in Virginia about the S. W. mountains. Saw the speckled woodpecker, bee martin and log cock or large woodpecker. found the nest of a humming bird, it had just began to lay its eggs.—Came 22 Miles today.
Sunday, June 15th, 1806. We had some trouble gathering our horses this morning because they had wandered off farther than usual. It rained heavily in the morning, and after collecting our horses, we waited for it to let up, but since it looked like a steady rain, we set out at 10 A.M. We passed a small prairie about 8.5 miles in, where we had previously sent R. Fields and Willard. We found two deer that they had killed and hung up. About 2.5 miles further, we reached Collins's Creek, where we found our hunters; they had killed another deer and had seen two large bears together, one black and the other white. We stopped at the creek, had lunch, and let our horses graze. The rain made the roads very slippery, so our horses had a hard time getting along; several of them fell but were not injured. After lunch, we continued up the creek for about half a mile, crossing it three times, then through a rugged area to an eastern fork of the same creek about 10.5 miles away and camped near a small prairie in the bottom land. The fallen timber, along with the slippery roads, made our journey slow and extremely difficult for our horses. The area is very densely wooded with longleaf pine, some pitch pine, larch, white pine, large white cedar or arborvitae, and various types of firs. The undergrowth mainly consists of reed root, ranging from 6 to 10 feet tall, along with all the other species mentioned the other day. The soil is good; in some places, it has a reddish hue similar to our lands in Virginia, around the southwestern mountains. I saw a speckled woodpecker, a bee martin, and a large woodpecker. I found a hummingbird nest; it had just started laying its eggs. — Came 22 miles today.
[Clark, June 15, 1806]
Sunday June 15th 1806 Collected our horses early with the intention of makeing an early Start. Some hard Showers of rain detained us untill ____ A M at which time we took our final departure from the quawmash fields and proceeded with much dificuelty owing to the Situation of the road which was very Sliprey, and it was with great dificulty that the loaded horses Could assend the hills and Mountains they frequently Sliped down both assending and decending those Steep hills. at g miles we passed through a Small prarie in which was quawmash in this Prarie Reubin Fields & Willard had killed and hung up two deer at 2 miles further we arrived at the Camp of R. Fields & Willard on Collin's Creek, they arrived at this Creek last evening and had killed another Deer near the Creek. here we let our horses graze in a Small glade and took dinner. the rain Seased and Sun Shown out. after detaining about 2 hours we proceeded on passing the Creek three times and passing over Some ruged hills or Spurs of the rocky Mountain, passing the Creek on which I encamped on the 17th Septr. last to a Small glade of about 10 acres thickly Covered with grass and quawmash, near a large Creek and encamped. we passed through bad fallen timber and a high Mountain this evening. from the top of this Mountain I had an extensive view of the rocky Mountains to the South and the Columbian plains for great extent also the S W. Mountains and a range of high Mountains which divides the waters of Lewis's & Clarks rivers and seems to termonate nearly a West Cours. Several high pts. to the N & N. E. Covered with Snow. a remarkable high rugd mountain in the forks of Lewis's river nearly South and covered with Snow. The vally up the Chopunnish river appears extensive tolerably leavel and Covered with timber. The S W. Mountain is very high in a S S W. derection.
Sunday, June 15, 1806. We gathered our horses early, planning to leave at sunrise. Some heavy rain showers delayed us until ____ A.M., at which point we finally departed from the quawmash fields and faced significant challenges due to the slippery road conditions. The loaded horses struggled to climb the hills and mountains, frequently slipping down both while ascending and descending these steep slopes. After 6 miles, we passed through a small prairie where we found quawmash. In this prairie, Reubin Fields and Willard had killed and hung up two deer. Two miles later, we arrived at the camp of R. Fields and Willard on Collins Creek; they had reached this creek the previous evening and had killed another deer nearby. Here, we let our horses graze in a small glade and had dinner. The rain stopped, and the sun came out. After resting for about 2 hours, we continued on, crossing the creek three times and navigating some rugged hills or spurs of the Rocky Mountains. We passed by the creek where I camped on September 17th last year, reaching a small glade of about 10 acres, densely covered with grass and quawmash, near a large creek where we set up camp. We dealt with fallen timber and a high mountain that evening. From the top of this mountain, I had a broad view of the Rocky Mountains to the south and the expansive Columbian plains, as well as the southwest mountains and a range of high peaks that divide the waters of Lewis's and Clark's rivers, appearing to head nearly westward. Several high points to the north and northeast were covered in snow, and a particularly tall, rugged mountain stood at the forks of Lewis's River, nearly to the south and also covered in snow. The valley along the Chopunnish River seems extensive, relatively flat, and filled with timber. The southwestern mountain is very high in a south-southwest direction.
[Lewis, June 16, 1806]
Monday June 16th 1806. We collected our horses very readily this morning, took breakfast and set out at 6 A.M.; proceeded up the creek about 2 miles through some handsom meadows of fine grass abounding with quawmash, here we passed the creek & ascended a ridge which led us to the N. E. about seven miles when we arrived at a small branch of hungry creek. the difficulty we met with from the fallen timber detained us untill 11 oC before we reached this place. here is a handsome little glade in which we found some grass for our horses we therefore halted to let them graize and took dinner knowing that there was no other convenient situation for that purpose short of the glaids on hungry creek where we intended to encamp, as the last probable place, at which we shall find a sufficient quantity of grass for many days. this morning Windsor busted his rifle near the muzzle. before we reached this little branch on which we dined we saw in the hollows and N. hillsides large quatities of snow yet undisolved; in some places it was from two to three feet deep. vegetation is proportionably backward; the dogtooth violet is just in blume, the honeysuckle, huckburry and a small speceis of white maple are begining to put fourth their leaves; these appearances in this comparatively low region augers but unfavourably with rispect to the practibility of passing the mountains, however we determined to proceed, accordingly after taking a haisty meal we set out and continued our rout though a thick wood much obstructed with fallen timber, and intersepted by many steep ravines and high hills. the snow has increased in quantity so much that the greater part of our rout this evening was over the snow which has become sufficiently firm to bear our horshes, otherwise it would have been impossible for us to proceed as it lay in immence masses in some places 8 or ten feet deep. we found much difficulty in pursuing the road as it was so frequently covered with snow. we arrived early in the evening at the place that Capt. C. had killed and left the flesh of a horse for us last September. here is a small glade in which there was some grass, not a sufficiency for our horses but we thought it most advisable to remain here all night as we apprehended if we proceeded further we should find less grass. the air is pleasent in the course of the day but becomes very cold before morning notwithstanding the shortness of the nights. Hungry creek is but small at this place but is deep and runs a perfect torrent; the water is perfectly transparent and as cold as ice. the pitch pine, white pine some larch and firs constite the timber; the long leafed pine extends a little distance on this side of the main branch of Collins's creek, and the white cedar not further than the branch of hungry creek on which we dined. I killed a small brown pheasant today, it feeds on the tender leaves and buds of the fir and pitch pine. in the fore part of the day I observed the Cullumbine the blue bells and the yelow flowering pea in blume. there is an abundance of a speceis of anjelico in these mountains, much stonger to the taist and more highly scented than that speceis common to the U States. know of no particular virtue or property it possesses; the natives dry it cut it in small peices which they string on a small cord and place about their necks; it smells very pleasantly. we came 15 miles today.
Monday, June 16, 1806. We rounded up our horses easily this morning, had breakfast, and set off at 6 A.M. We traveled about 2 miles up the creek through some beautiful meadows filled with fine grass and plenty of quawmash. Here, we crossed the creek and climbed a ridge that took us northeast for about seven miles until we reached a small branch of Hungry Creek. We were delayed by fallen timber until 11 o'clock before we arrived here. There's a lovely little glade where we found some grass for our horses, so we stopped to let them graze and had lunch, knowing there wouldn't be another good spot for that purpose until the glades on Hungry Creek, where we planned to camp. This was likely the last place we would find enough grass for several days. This morning, Windsor's rifle broke near the muzzle. Before we reached this little branch where we had lunch, we noticed large amounts of snow still melting on the shady hillsides and in the hollows; in some spots, it was 2 to 3 feet deep. Vegetation is relatively slow to develop; the dogtooth violet is just blooming, and the honeysuckle, huckleberry, and a small species of white maple are starting to grow their leaves. These signs in this relatively low area don't bode well for our chances of crossing the mountains, but we decided to keep going. After a quick meal, we set out again through a dense forest, heavily obstructed by fallen timber and interrupted by many steep ravines and high hills. The snow has built up so much that most of our route this evening was across snow that had become solid enough to support our horses; otherwise, it would have been impossible for us to move through the huge drifts, some as deep as 8 to 10 feet. We had a tough time staying on the path since it was often buried under snow. We arrived early in the evening at the spot where Capt. C. had killed a horse and left the meat for us last September. There's a small glade here with some grass, not enough for our horses, but we thought it would be best to stay here for the night since we feared we’d find even less grass if we went further. The air is pleasant during the day but gets very cold before morning, despite the short nights. Hungry Creek is small at this spot, but it's deep and flows quickly; the water is crystal clear and as cold as ice. The trees consist of pitch pine, white pine, some larch, and firs; the longleaf pine stretches a bit on this side of the main branch of Collins's Creek, and the white cedar is no further than the branch of Hungry Creek where we had lunch. I shot a small brown pheasant today; it eats the tender leaves and buds of fir and pitch pine. Earlier today, I noticed the columbine, bluebells, and yellow flowering peas blooming. There's an abundance of a type of angelica in these mountains, much stronger in flavor and more fragrant than the kind common in the United States. I'm not aware of any particular properties it has; the natives dry it, cut it into small pieces which they string on a small cord and wear around their necks; it smells very nice. We traveled 15 miles today.
[Clark, June 16, 1806]
Monday June 16th 1806 Collected our horses early and Set Out 7 A M proceeded on up the Creek through a gladey Swompy bottom with grass and quawmash Crossed the Creek to the East and proceeded on through most intolerable bad fallen timber over a high Mountain on which great quantity of Snow is yet lying premisquissly through the thick wood, and in maney places the banks of snow is 4 feet deep. we noned it or dined on a Small Creek in a small open Vally where we found Some grass for our horses to eate, altho Serounded by Snow no other Convenient Situation Short of the glades on Hungery Creek where we intended to encamp, as the last probable place, at which we Shall find a Sufficent quantity of grass for maney days. This morning Windsor bursted his rifle near the Muzzle. Vigitation is propotionable backward; the dog tooth Violet is just in blume, the honeysuckle, huckleberry and a Small Species of white maple are beginning to put foth their leaves, where they are clear of the Snow, those appearances in this comparratively low region augers but unfavourably with respect to the practibility of passing the Mountains, however we deturmine to proceed, accordingly after takeing a hasty meal we Set out and Continued our rout through a thick wood much obstructed with fallen timber, and interupted by maney Steep reveins and hills which wer very high. the Snow has increased in quantity So much that the great part of our rout this evening was over the Snow which has become Sufficently firm to bear our horses, otherwise it would have been impossible for us to proceed as it lay in emince masses in Some places 8 or ten feet deep. We found much dificulty in finding the road, as it was So frequently covered with Snow. we arived early in the evening at the place I had killed and left the flesh of a horse for the party in my rear last Septr. here is a Small glade in which there is Some grass, not a Sufficency of our horses, but we thought it adviseable to remain here all night as we apprehended if we proceeded further we should find less grass. The air is pleasant in the Course of the day, but becomes very cold before morning not withstanding the Shortness of the night. Hungary Creek is but Small at this place but is deep and runs a perfect torrent; the water is perfectly transparent and as Cold as ice. the titch pine, white pine Some Larch and firs consists the timber, the long leafed pine extends but a Short distance on the Mts. Capt. L. killed a Small brown pheasant today, it feeds on the tender leaves and buds of the fir and pitch pine. in the forepart of the day I observed the Cullumbine the blue bells and the Yellow flowering pea in blume. there is an abundance of a Species of Anjelico in the mountains much Stronger to the taiste, and more highly Scented than that Species common to the U States. I know of no particular virtue or property it possesses the nativs dry it Cut it in Small pieces which they string on a Small Cord and place about the necks; it Smells pleasently. we Come 15 Ms. today.
Monday, June 16th, 1806. We saddled up our horses early and set out at 7 A.M. We traveled up the creek through a swampy area filled with grass and quawmash. We crossed to the east side of the creek and continued on through an incredibly frustrating stretch of fallen timber over a high mountain, where a lot of snow still remains, often buried deep in the thick woods, with snowbanks reaching up to 4 feet in places. We stopped for a light meal by a small creek in a little open valley where we found some grass for our horses to eat, even though it was surrounded by snow. This was the only decent spot we could find short of the glades on Hungry Creek, where we planned to camp, as it seemed to be our last chance to find enough grass for several days. This morning, Windsor's rifle burst near the muzzle. The vegetation is coming back slowly; the dog-tooth violet is just blooming, and the honeysuckle, huckleberry, and a small type of white maple are just beginning to sprout leaves where there's no snow. However, these signs in this relatively low area don't bode well for our chances of crossing the mountains. Nevertheless, we decided to keep going. After a quick meal, we set out and continued through a thick forest, hindered by fallen timber and interrupted by many steep ravines and high hills. The snow has become so deep that most of our route this evening was over snow that was firm enough to support our horses; otherwise, we wouldn't have been able to move forward because in some places, it was piled up to 8 or 10 feet deep. We had a lot of trouble finding the road since it was often covered by snow. We arrived early in the evening at a spot where I had killed and left a horse's meat for the group behind us last September. There’s a small glade here with some grass, but not enough for our horses, though we thought it best to stay the night since we feared moving on would lead us to even less grass. The air is pleasant during the day but gets very cold by morning, even with the briefness of the night. Hungry Creek is small here but deep and flows like a torrent; the water is clear and as cold as ice. The timber consists of pitch pine, white pine, some larch, and firs, while the long-leafed pine is not widespread on the mountains. Capt. L. shot a small brown pheasant today that feeds on the tender leaves and buds of fir and pitch pine. Earlier in the day, I noticed the columbine, bluebells, and yellow-flowering pea in bloom. There’s an abundance of a species of angelica in the mountains that tastes stronger and has a more potent scent than the varieties common in the U.S. I don’t know of any specific medicinal properties it has, but the natives dry it, cut it into small pieces, string it on a small cord, and wear it around their necks; it smells nice. We traveled 15 miles today.
[Lewis, June 17, 1806]
Tuesday June 17th 1806. we collected our horses and set out early; we proceeded down hungry creek about seven miles passing it twice; we found it difficult and dangerous to pass the creek in consequence of its debth and rapidity; we avoided two other passes of the creek by ascending a very steep rocky and difficult hill. beyond this creek the road ascends the mountain to the hight of the main leading ridges which divides the Waters of the Chopunnish and Kooskooske rivers. this hill or reather mountain we ascended about 3 miles when we found ourselves invelloped in snow from 12 to 15 feet deep even on the south sides of the hills with the fairest exposure to the sun; here was winter with all it's rigors; the air was cold, my hands and feet were benumbed. we knew that it would require five days to reach the fish wears at the entrance of Colt Creek, provided we were so fortunate as to be enabled to follow the proper ridges of the mountains to lead us to that place; short of that point we could not hope for any food for our horses not even underwood itself as the whole was covered many feet deep in snow. if we proceeded and should get bewildered in these mountains the certainty was that we should loose all our horses and consequently our baggage instruments perhaps our papers and thus eminently wrisk the loss of the discoveries which we had already made if we should be so fortunate as to escape with life. the snow boar our horses very well and the travelling was therefore infinitely better that the obstruction of rocks and fallen timber which we met with in our passage over last fall when the snow lay on this part of the ridge in detached spots only. under these circumstances we conceived it madnes in this stage of the expedition to proceed without a guide who could certainly conduct us to the fish wears on the Kooskooske, as our horses could not possibly sustain a journey of more than five days without food. we therefore came to the resolution to return with our horses while they were yet strong and in good order and indevour to keep them so untill we could procure an indian to conduct us over the snowey mountains, and again to proceed as soon as we could procure such a guide, knowing from the appearance of the snows that if we remained untill it had desolved sufficiently for us to follow the road that we should not be enabled to return to the United States within this season. having come to this resolution, we ordered the party to make a deposit for all the baggage which we had not immediate use for, and also all the roots and bread of cows which they had except an allowance for a few days to enable them to return to some place at which we could subsist by hunting untill we procured a guide. we left our instruments papers &c beleiving them safer here than to wrisk them on horseback over the roads and creeks which we had passed. our baggage being laid on scaffoalds and well covered we began our retrograde march at 1 P.M. having remained about 3 hours on this snowey mountain. we returned by the rout we had come to hungry creek, which we ascended about 2 miles and encamped. we had here more grass for our horses than the preceeding evening yet it was but scant. the party were a good deel dejected tho not so as I had apprehended they would have been. this is the first time since we have been on this long tour that we have ever been compelled to retreat or make a retrograde march. it rained on us most of this evening.
Tuesday, June 17th, 1806. We gathered our horses and set out early. We traveled down Hungry Creek for about seven miles, crossing it twice. It was tough and risky to cross the creek because of its depth and speed. We avoided two other crossings by climbing a very steep, rocky hill. Beyond this creek, the road ascends the mountain to the height of the main ridges that separate the waters of the Chopunnish and Kooskooske rivers. We climbed this hill, or rather mountain, for about three miles when we found ourselves surrounded by snow 12 to 15 feet deep, even on the south-facing slopes of the hills that got the most sun; it felt like winter with all its harshness. The air was cold, and my hands and feet were numb. We knew it would take five days to reach the fish weirs at the entrance of Colt Creek, assuming we were lucky enough to follow the right ridges of the mountains to get there; if we didn’t make it, we had no hope of finding food for our horses—not even twigs, as everything was buried under many feet of snow. If we moved forward and got lost in these mountains, we would surely lose all our horses and, consequently, our supplies and possibly our papers, significantly risking the discoveries we had already made, if we were fortunate enough to survive. The snow supported our horses well, making travel significantly easier than the rocks and fallen timber we encountered last fall when the snow was only in patches on this part of the ridge. Given these circumstances, we decided it would be madness to continue without a guide who could lead us to the fish weirs on the Kooskooske, as our horses couldn't withstand a journey of more than five days without food. Therefore, we resolved to turn back with our horses while they were still strong and in good condition and try to keep them that way until we could find an Indian to guide us over the snowy mountains. We would then proceed as soon as we secured such a guide, knowing from the state of the snow that if we waited until it melted enough for us to follow the road, we wouldn’t be able to return to the United States this season. Having made this decision, we instructed the party to store all the baggage we didn’t need immediately, as well as all the roots and cow bread they had, except for enough to last a few days to enable them to return to a place where we could hunt for food until we found a guide. We left our instruments, papers, etc., believing they would be safer here than risking them on horseback over the roads and creeks we had crossed. With our baggage secured on scaffolds and well covered, we began our return journey at 1 PM, having spent about three hours on this snowy mountain. We went back the same way we came to Hungry Creek, which we climbed for about two miles before camping. We had more grass for our horses here than the previous evening, though it was still sparse. The group was quite a bit downcast, though not as much as I had feared they would be. This is the first time during our long journey that we’ve had to retreat or make a backward march. It rained on us for most of the evening.
[Clark, June 17, 1806]
Tuesday June 17th 1806 We Collected our horses and Set out early; we proceeded down hungary Creek about 7 miles passing it twice; we found it dificuelt and dangerous to pass the creek in consequence of it's debth and rapidity; we avoided two other passes of the creek, by assending a Steep rockey and difficuelt hill. beyond this Creek the road assends the mountain to the hight of the main leading ridges, which divides the waters of the Kooskooske and Chopunnish Riv's. This mountain we ascended about 3 miles when we found ourselves invelloped in snow from 8 to 12 feet deep even on the South Side of the mountain. I was in front and Could only prosue the derection of the road by the trees which had been peeled by the nativs for the iner bark of which they Scraped and eate, as those pealed trees were only to be found Scattered promisquisley, I with great difficulty prosued the direction of the road one mile further to the top of the mountain where I found the Snow from 12 to 15 feet deep, but fiew trees with the fairest exposure to the Sun; here was Winter with all it's rigors; the air was Cold my hands and feet were benumed. we knew that it would require four days to reach the fish weare at the enterance of Colt Creek, provided we were So fortunate as to be enabled to follow the poper ridge of the mountains to lead us to that place; of this all of our most expert woodsmen and principal guides were extreemly doubtfull; Short of that point we could not hope for any food for our horses not even under wood itself as the whole was covered many feet deep in Snow. if we proceeded and Should git bewildered in those Mountains the Certainty was that we Should lose all of our horses and consequencely our baggage enstrements perhaps our papers and thus eventially resque the loss of our discoveries which we had already made if we Should be So fortunate as to escape with life. the Snow bore our horses very well and the traveling was therefore infinately better than the obstruction of rocks and fallen timber which we met with in our passage over last fall when the Snow lay on this part of the ridge in detached spops only. under these Circumstances we Conceived it madness in this stage of the expedition to proceed without a guide who Could Certainly Conduct us to the fishwears on the Kooskooske, as our horses could not possibly Sustain a journey of more than 4 or 5 days without food. we therefore Come to the resolution to return with our horses while they were yet strong and in good order, and indeaver to keep them So untill we could precure an indian to conduct us over the Snowey Mountains, and again to proceed as soon as we could precure Such a guide, knowing from the appearance of the snows that if we remained untill it had disolved Sufficiently for us to follow the road that we Should not be enabled to return to the United States within this Season. having come to this resolution, we ordered the party to make a deposit of all the baggage which we had not imediate use for, and also all the roots and bread of Cows which they had except an allowance for a fiew days to enable them to return to Some place at which we could Subsist by hunting untill we precured a guide. we left our instrements, and I even left the most of my papers believing them Safer here than to Wrisk them on horseback over the road, rocks and water which we had passed. our baggage being laid on Scaffolds and well covered, we began our retragrade march at 1 P.M. haveing remain'd about three hours on this Snowey mountain. we returned by the rout we had advanced to hungary Creek, which we assended about 2 miles and encamped. we had here more grass for our horses than the proceeding evening, yet it was but scant. the party were a good deel dejected, tho not as much So as I had apprehended they would have been. this is the first time Since we have been on this long tour that we have ever been compelled to retreat or make a retragrade march. it rained on us the most of this evening. on the top of the Mountain the Weather was very fluctiating and uncertain snowed cloudy & fair in a few minets.
Tuesday, June 17th, 1806. We gathered our horses and set out early. We traveled down Hungary Creek for about 7 miles, crossing it twice. We found it difficult and dangerous to cross because of its depth and speed; we avoided two other crossings by climbing a steep, rocky, and challenging hill. Beyond this creek, the road climbed up the mountain to the height of the main ridges, which separate the waters of the Kooskooske and Chopunnish Rivers. We ascended this mountain for about 3 miles until we were surrounded by snow that was 8 to 12 feet deep, even on the south side. I was in front and could only follow the direction of the road by the trees that had been stripped by the natives for the inner bark, which they scraped and ate. Since those stripped trees were scattered randomly, I had great difficulty following the road another mile to the top of the mountain where the snow was 12 to 15 feet deep, but there were only a few trees that had a good exposure to the sun. Here, winter was harsh; the air was cold, and my hands and feet were numb. We knew it would take four days to reach the fishing grounds at the entrance of Colt Creek, provided we were lucky enough to follow the right ridge of the mountains to get there; all of our best woodsmen and main guides were extremely doubtful about this. Before that point, we couldn't hope for any food for our horses, not even under the wood, as everything was covered in several feet of snow. If we continued and got lost in these mountains, we would surely lose all our horses and consequently our gear, possibly even our papers, and thus risk losing all the discoveries we had already made if we were fortunate enough to escape with our lives. The snow supported our horses well enough, so traveling was infinitely better than the obstacles of rocks and fallen timber we encountered last fall when there were only patches of snow on this part of the ridge. Under these circumstances, we felt it was madness at this stage of the expedition to proceed without a guide who could reliably lead us to the fishing grounds on the Kooskooske, as our horses couldn’t survive a journey of more than 4 or 5 days without food. We therefore decided to return with our horses while they were still strong and in good condition and to keep them that way until we could find an Indian to guide us over the snowy mountains. We planned to proceed as soon as we could find such a guide, knowing from the state of the snow that if we stayed until it had melted enough for us to follow the road, we wouldn't be able to return to the United States this season. Having made this decision, we instructed the party to leave behind all the baggage we didn’t need immediately, as well as all the roots and cow bread, except for a small allowance to enable them to return to a place where we could survive by hunting until we secured a guide. We left our instruments, and I even left most of my papers, believing they would be safer here than risking them on horseback over the roads, rocks, and water we had passed. After securing our baggage on scaffolds and covering it well, we started our backward march at 1 P.M., having spent about three hours on this snowy mountain. We retraced our route back to Hungary Creek, which we ascended for about 2 miles and then set up camp. We had more grass for our horses here than the previous evening, but it was still sparse. The group was somewhat dejected, though not as much as I had feared they would be. This was the first time since we had begun this long journey that we had to retreat or make a backward march. It rained on us for most of the evening. At the top of the mountain, the weather was very changeable and unpredictable, with snow, clouds, and sunny moments occurring within minutes.
[Lewis, June 18, 1806]
Wednesday June 18th 1806. This morning we had considerable difficulty in collecting our horses they having straggled off to a considerable distance in surch of food on the sides of the mountains among the thick timber; at 9 OCk. we collected them all except one of Drewyers and one of Sheildes; we set out leaving Sheilds and LaPage to collect the two lost horses and follow us. We dispatched Drewyer and Shannon to the Chopunnish Indians in the plains beyond the Kooskooske in order to hasten the arrival of the indians who had promised to accompany us or to procure a gude at all events and rejoin us as soon as possible. we sent by them a rifle which we offered as a reward to any of them who would engage to conduct us to traveller's rest; we also dirrected them if they found difficulty in induciny any of them to accompany us to offer the reward of two other guns to be given them immediately and ten horses at the falls of Missouri. we had not proceeded far this morning before Potts cut his leg very badly with one of the large knives; he cut one of the large veigns on the inner side of the leg; I found much difficulty in stoping the blood which I could not effect untill I applyed a tight bandage with a little cushon of wood and tow on the veign below the wound. Colter's horse fel with him in passing hungry creek and himself and horse were driven down the creek a considerable distance rolling over each other among the rocks. he fortunately escaped without injury or the loss of his gun. by 1 P.M. we returned to the glade on the branch of hungry Creek where we had dined on the 16th inst. here we again halted and dined. as there was much appearance of deer about this place we left R. and J. Feilds with directions to hunt this evening and tomorrow morning at this place and to join us in the evening at the meadows of Collin's creek where we intend remaining tomorrow in order to rest our horses and hunt. after dinner we proceeded on to Collin's Creek and encamped in a pleasant situation at the upper part of the meadows about 2 ms. above our encampment of the 15th inst. we sent out several hunters but they returned without having killed anything. they saw a number of salmon in the creek and shot at them several times without success. we directed Colter and Gibson to fix each of them a gigg in the morning and indevour to take some of the salmon. the hunters saw much fresh appearance of bear but very little of deer. we hope by means of the fish together with what deer and bear we can kill to be enabled to subsist untill our guide arrives without the necessity of returning to the quawmash flats. there is a great abundance of good food here to sustain our horses.
Wednesday, June 18th, 1806. This morning, we had a lot of trouble gathering our horses since they wandered off pretty far in search of food among the thick trees on the mountains. By 9 o'clock, we had rounded them all up except for one of Drewyer's and one of Shields'; we set out, leaving Shields and LaPage to find the two lost horses and catch up with us. We sent Drewyer and Shannon to the Chopunnish Indians out on the plains past the Kooskooske to speed up the arrival of the Indians who had promised to join us, or at least to secure a guide and rejoin us as soon as possible. We sent along a rifle to offer as a reward to anyone who would lead us to Traveler's Rest; we also told them that if they had trouble convincing any of the Indians to come with us, to offer two more guns to be given immediately and ten horses at the falls of Missouri. We hadn’t gone far this morning before Potts badly cut his leg with one of the large knives; he nicked a major vein on the inside of his leg. I had a lot of trouble stopping the bleeding, which I could only manage after applying a tight bandage with a bit of wood and some tow below the wound. Colter's horse fell with him while crossing Hungry Creek, and both he and his horse were rolled down the creek quite a distance, tumbling over the rocks. Fortunately, he came away uninjured and didn’t lose his gun. By 1 P.M., we returned to the glade near Hungry Creek where we had dined on the 16th. We stopped again and had lunch. Since there was a lot of signs of deer around, we left R. and J. Fields behind with instructions to hunt this evening and tomorrow morning and to meet us later at the meadows of Collins Creek, where we plan to stay tomorrow to rest our horses and hunt. After lunch, we moved on to Collins Creek and set up camp in a nice spot at the upper part of the meadows, about 2 miles above our camp from the 15th. We sent out several hunters, but they came back empty-handed. They saw a lot of salmon in the creek and shot at them several times without luck. We told Colter and Gibson to set up a gig in the morning and try to catch some salmon. The hunters saw many fresh signs of bears but very few deer. We hope that with the fish, along with whatever deer and bear we can hunt, we'll be able to make do until our guide arrives without having to return to the quagmire flats. There’s plenty of good food here to keep our horses going.
[Clark, June 18, 1806]
Wednesday June 18th 1806 This morning we had considerable dificuelty in collecting our horses they haveing Strageled of to a considerable distance in Serch of food on the Sides of the mountains among the thick timber, at 9 oClock we Collected them all except 2 one of Shields & one of Drewyer's. we Set out leaving Shields and LePage to collect the two lost horses and follow us.
Wednesday, June 18th, 1806 This morning, we had a lot of trouble rounding up our horses; they had wandered off quite a distance in search of food among the thick timber on the mountainsides. By 9 o'clock, we had gathered all of them except for two—one belonging to Shields and one belonging to Drewyer. We set out, leaving Shields and LePage to find the two missing horses and catch up with us.
We dispatched Drewyer and Shannon to the Chopunnish Indians in the plains beyond the Kooskooske in order to hasten the arrival of the Indians who promised to accompany us, or to precure a guide at all events and rejoin us as Soon as possible. We Sent by them a riffle which we offered as a reward to any of them who would engage to conduct us to Clarks river at the entrance of Travellers rest Creek; we also directed them if they found difficuelty in induceing any of them to accompany us to offer the reward of two other guns to be given them immediately and ten horses at the falls of Missouri. we had not proceeded far this morning before J. Potts cut his leg very badly with one of the large knives; he cut one of the large veins on the iner side of the leg; Colters horse fell with him in passing hungary creek and himself and horse were driven down the Creek a considerable distance roleing over each other among the rocks. he fortunately escaped without much injurey or the loss of his gun. he lost his blanket. at 1 P. M we returned to the glade on a branch of hungary Creek where we had dined on the 16th instant. here we again halted and dined. as there was some appearance of deer about this place we left J. & R Field with directions to hunt this evening and tomorrow morning at this place and join us in the evening in the Meadows on Collin's Creek where we intended to remain tomorrow in order to restour horses and hunt. after dinner we proceeded on to the near fork of Collins Creek and encamped in a pleasant Situation at the upper part of the Meadows about 2 miles above our encampment of the 15th inst. we Sent out Several hunters but they returned without having killed any thing-. they saw a number of large fish in the Creek and Shot at them Several times without Suckcess. we Gibson and Colter to fix each of themselves a gigg in the morning and indeaver to take Some of those fish. the hunters Saw much fresh appearance of Bear, but very little deer Sign. we hope by the means of the fish together with what deer and bear we can kill to been abled to Subsist untill our guide arives without the necessaty of returning to the quawmash flats. there is great abundance of good food here to Sustain our horses. we are in flattering expectations of the arrival of two young chiefs who informed us that they intended to accompany us to the U. States, and Should Set out from their village in 9 nights after we left them on the 19th inst. if they Set out at that time Drewyer & Shannon will meet them, and probably join us on the 20th or 21st-. Musquetors Troublesome.
We sent Drewyer and Shannon to the Chopunnish Indians in the plains beyond the Kooskooske to speed up the arrival of the Indians who promised to join us or, at the very least, to find a guide and rejoin us as soon as possible. We sent along a rifle as a reward for anyone who would agree to lead us to Clark's River at the entrance of Traveler's Rest Creek; we also instructed them that if they had trouble persuading anyone to come with us, they should offer a reward of two additional guns to be given immediately and ten horses at the Falls of Missouri. We hadn't gone far this morning when J. Potts badly cut his leg with one of the large knives, slicing one of the major veins on the inner side of his leg. Colter's horse fell while crossing Hungary Creek, and both he and the horse were driven down the creek a considerable distance, rolling over each other among the rocks. Fortunately, he escaped with only minor injuries and didn’t lose his gun, but he did lose his blanket. At 1 P.M., we returned to the glade on a branch of Hungary Creek where we had dined on the 16th. We halted there again for lunch. Since there were signs of deer in the area, we left J. & R. Field with instructions to hunt this evening and tomorrow morning, then catch up with us in the evening in the meadows on Collins Creek, where we planned to stay tomorrow to rest our horses and hunt. After lunch, we moved on to the near fork of Collins Creek and set up camp in a nice spot at the upper part of the meadows, about two miles above where we camped on the 15th. We sent out several hunters, but they returned empty-handed. They saw a number of large fish in the creek and shot at them several times without success. We had Gibson and Colter each make themselves a fishing gig in the morning to try to catch some of those fish. The hunters found plenty of fresh bear tracks but very few signs of deer. We hope that with the fish, along with any deer and bear we can hunt, we'll be able to get by until our guide arrives without having to go back to the Quawmash flats. There's plenty of good food here to sustain our horses. We're eagerly anticipating the arrival of two young chiefs who told us they meant to travel with us to the U.S. and would set out from their village nine nights after we left them on the 19th. If they do leave at that time, Drewyer and Shannon will meet them and probably join us on the 20th or 21st. Mosquitoes are troublesome.
[Lewis, June 19, 1806]
Thursday June 19th 1806. Our hunters were out very early this morning, they returned before noon with one deer only. the Fishermen had been more unsuccessfull, they returned without a single fish and reported they could find but few and those they had tryed to take in vain. they had broke both their giggs which were of indian fabrication made of bone. I happened to have a pointed peice of iron in my pouch which answered by cuting in two peices to renew boath giggs. they took one fish this evening which proved to be a salmon trout much to our mortification, for we had hoped that they were the salmon of this spring arrival and of course fat and fine. these trout are of the red kind they remain all winter in the upper parts of the rivers and creeks and are generally poor at this season. At 2 P.M. J & R Feilds arived with two deer; John Sheilds and LaPage came with them, they had not succeeded in finding their horses. late in the evening Frazier reported that my riding horse that of Capt Clark and his mule had gone on towards the Quawmash flatts and that he had pursued their tracks on the road about 21/2 miles. we determined to send out all the hunters in the morning in order to make a fair experiment of the pactability of our being able to subsist at this place and if not we shall move the day after to the Quawmash flatts. the musquetoes have been excessively troublesome to us since our arrival at this place particularly in the evening. Cruzatte brought me several large morells which I roasted and eat without salt pepper or grease in this way I had for the first time the true taist of the morell which is truly an insippid taistless food. our stock of salt is now exhausted except two quarts which I have reserved for my tour up Maria's River and that I left the other day on the mountain.-
Thursday, June 19, 1806. Our hunters went out very early this morning and returned before noon with just one deer. The fishermen were even more unsuccessful; they came back without a single fish and reported they could find very few, and those they had tried to catch were elusive. They broke both of their gigs, which were made of bone by Native American craftsmen. I happened to have a pointed piece of iron in my pouch, which I used to cut in two pieces to repair both gigs. They caught one fish this evening, which turned out to be a salmon trout, much to our disappointment, as we had hoped they were the spring salmon and therefore fat and fine. These trout are the red kind; they stay all winter in the upper parts of the rivers and creeks and are generally poor at this time. At 2 P.M., J & R Fields arrived with two deer; John Shields and LaPage came with them, but they had not succeeded in finding their horses. Late in the evening, Frazier reported that my riding horse, Captain Clark's horse, and his mule had gone toward the Quawmash flats, and he had followed their tracks on the road for about 2.5 miles. We decided to send out all the hunters in the morning to properly assess our ability to survive in this place, and if not, we would move the day after to the Quawmash flats. The mosquitoes have been extremely bothersome since we arrived here, especially in the evenings. Cruzatte brought me several large morels, which I roasted and ate without salt, pepper, or grease; for the first time, I truly tasted the morel, which is quite tasteless and bland. Our supply of salt is now exhausted, except for two quarts that I reserved for my trip up Maria's River, which I left the other day on the mountain.
[Clark, June 19, 1806]
Thursday June 19th 1806 This morning early Collins Labeesh & Crusat turned out to hunt, and Gibson & Colter fixed two Indian giggs and went in Serch of fish in the Creek. I took my gun and walked up the Creek about 4 Miles Saw some bear Sign and one fish only. Gibson killed only one fish which we found to be the Salmon Trout of the dark Species. this fish was of the common Size pore, and indifferently flavoured. Labeesh killed one Deer neither of the others killed any thing. about 1 P.M. Jo. & R Fields Shields & LaPage came up. Reubin &Joseph Fields brought two Deer which R. had killed in the Small glade on a branch of Hungary Creek where we had left them yesterday. Shields & LaPage did not find the two horses which we lost yesterday morning. they report that they hunted with great diligence in the vicinity of our camp of the 17th without suckcess. in my walk of this day up the Creek I observed a great abundance of fine grass sufficient to Sustain our horses any length of time we chose to Stay at this place. Several glades of quawmash. the S W. Sides of the hills is fallen timber and burnt woods, the N. E. Sides of the hills is thickly timbered with lofty pine, and thick under growth This evening Several Salmon trout were Seen in the Creek, they hid themselves under the banks of the Creek which jutted over in Such a manner as to secure them from the Stroke of our giggs nets and spears which were made for the purpose of taking those Salmon trout. we concluded to delay at this place another day with a view to give time to the two young Chiefs to arrive in case they set out on the 19th inst. as they informed us they Should they will have Sufficient time to join us tomorrow or early the next day. Should we get a guide from this place it will Save us two days march through some of the worst road through those Mountains, crouded with fallin timber mud holes and steep hills &c. we directed all the hunters to turn out early and kill something for us to live on &c. Musquetors troublesom
Thursday, June 19, 1806 This morning, Collins, Labeesh, and Crusat went out to hunt, while Gibson and Colter prepared two Indian gigs and went searching for fish in the creek. I took my gun and walked about four miles up the creek. I spotted some bear signs and found only one fish. Gibson managed to catch just one fish, which turned out to be a Salmon Trout of the dark variety. This fish was average-sized, poor, and had a mediocre flavor. Labeesh killed one deer, but the others didn't catch anything. Around 1 P.M., Jo. and R. Fields, Shields, and LaPage arrived. Reubin and Joseph Fields brought back two deer that R. had killed in a small clearing on a branch of Hungary Creek where we had left them yesterday. Shields and LaPage couldn’t find the two horses we lost yesterday morning. They reported that they hunted diligently around our camp from the 17th without success. During my walk today up the creek, I noticed a lot of fine grass that could easily sustain our horses for as long as we wanted to stay here. There were several patches of quawmash. The southwest sides of the hills had fallen timber and burnt woods, while the northeast sides were densely wooded with tall pines and thick underbrush. This evening, we saw several Salmon trout in the creek; they hid under the banks, which jutted out in a way that protected them from our gigs, nets, and spears, which were meant to catch those Salmon trout. We decided to stay here for another day to allow the two young chiefs time to arrive, as they had informed us they would set out on the 19th. They should have enough time to join us tomorrow or early the next day. If we can get a guide from this place, it will save us two days of travel through some of the worst terrain in those mountains, filled with fallen timber, mud holes, steep hills, etc. We instructed all the hunters to head out early and catch something for us to eat. Mosquitoes are quite bothersome.
[Lewis, June 20, 1806]
Friday June 20th 1806. Our hunters set out early this morning; most of them returned before noon. R. Feilds killed a brown bear the tallons of which were remarkably short broad at their base and sharply pointed this was of the speceis which the Chopunnish call Yah-kar. it was in very low order and the flesh of the bear in this situation is much inferior to lean venison or the flesh of poor Elk. Labush and Cruzatte returned late in the evening with one deer which the former had killed. we also caught seven salmon trout in the course of the day. the hunters assured us that their greatest exertions would not enable them to support us here more than one or two days longer from the great scarcity of game and the difficult access of the country, the under brush being very thick and great quantities of fallen timber. as we shall necessarily be compelled to remain more than two days for the return of Drewyer and Shannon we determined to return in the morning as far as the quawmash flatts and indeavour to lay in another stock of meat for the mountains, our former stock being now nearly exhausted as well as what we have killed on our return. by returning to the quawmash flatts we shall sooner be informed whether or not we can procure a guide to conduct us through the mountains; should we fail in procuring one, we have determined to wrisk a passage on the following plan immediately, because should we wait much longer or untill the snow desolves in such manner as to enable us to follow the road we cannot hope to reach the United States this winter; this is that Capt. C. or myself shall take four of our most expert woodsmen with three or four of our best horses and proceed two days in advance taking a plentiful) supply of provision. for this party to follow the road by the marks which the baggage of the indians has made in many places on the sides of the trees by rubing against them, and to blaize the trees with a tomahawk as they proceeded. that after proceeding two days in advance of hungary creek two of those men would be sent back to the main party who by the time of their return to Hungary Creek would have reached that place. the men so returning would be enabled to inform the main party of the probable success of the preceeding party in finding the road and of their probable progress, in order that should it be necessary, the main party by the delay of a day or two at hungary creek, should give the advance time to mark the road through before the main party could overtake them, and thus prevent delay on the part of the rout where no food is to be obtained for our horses. should it so happen that the advance could not find the road by the marks on the trees after attempting it for two days, the whole of then would return to the main party. in which case we wold bring back our baggage and attempt a passage over these mountains through the country of the Shoshones further to the South by way of the main S. Westerly fork of Lewis's river and Madison or Gallatin's rivers, where from the information of the Chopunnish there is a passage which at this season of the year is not obstructed by snow, though the round is very distant and would require at least a month in it's performance. The Shoshones informed us when we first met with them that there was a passage across the mountains in that quarter but represented the difficulties arrising from steep high and rugged mountains and also an extensive and barren plain which was to be passed without game, as infinitely more difficult than the rout by which we came. from the circumstance of the Chopunnish being at war with that part of the Shoshones who inhabit the country on this side of the Mountains through which the road passes I think it is highly probable that they cannot be well informed with rispect to the road, and further, had there been a better road in that quarter the Shoshones on the East fork of Lewis's river who knew them both would not have recommended that by which we came to this country. the travelling in the mountains on the snow at present is very good, the snow bears the horses perfictly; it is a firm coase snow without a crust, and the horses have good foot hold without sliping much; the only dificulty is finding the road, and I think the plan we have devised will succeed even should we not be enabled to obtain a guide. Although the snow may be stated on an average at 10 feet deep yet arround the bodies of the trees it has desolved much more than in other parts not being generally more than one or two feet deep immediately at the roots of the trees, and; of course the marks left by the rubing of the indian baggage against them is not concealed. the reason why the snow is comparitively so shallow about the roots of the trees I presume proceeds as well from the snow in falling being thrown off from their bodies by their thick and spreading branches as from the reflection of the sun against the trees and the warmth which they in some measure acquire from the earth which is never frozen underneath these masses of snow. Bratton's horse was also discovered to be absent this evening. I presume he has also returned to the flatts.
Friday, June 20th, 1806. Our hunters set out early this morning; most of them returned before noon. R. Feilds killed a brown bear whose claws were unusually short, broad at the base, and sharply pointed. This was the species that the Chopunnish call Yah-kar. The bear was in very poor condition, and the meat was much worse than lean venison or the flesh of a scrawny elk. Labush and Cruzatte returned late in the evening with one deer that Labush had killed. We also caught seven salmon trout throughout the day. The hunters assured us that their greatest efforts wouldn’t allow them to support us here for more than one or two days longer due to the severe scarcity of game and the challenging terrain, with thick underbrush and a lot of fallen timber. Since we will need to stay for more than two days for the return of Drewyer and Shannon, we decided to return in the morning as far as the quawmash flats and try to stock up on more meat for the mountains, as our previous supplies are nearly gone along with what we’ve killed on our way back. By going back to the quawmash flats, we’ll find out sooner whether we can get a guide to lead us through the mountains; if we fail to get one, we’ve decided to risk heading out immediately on the following plan. If we wait too long or until the snow melts enough to follow the road, we can’t expect to reach the United States this winter. The plan is that Capt. C. or I will take four of our best woodsmen and three or four of our best horses and proceed two days ahead with a plenty of provisions. This group will follow the road by the marks left by the Indians’ baggage rubbing against the trees and blaze the trees with a tomahawk as they go. After traveling two days beyond Hungary Creek, two of those men would return to the main party, who by the time of their return would have reached that place. The men returning would be able to inform the main party about the chances of success of the forward group in locating the road and their likely progress. This way, if necessary, the main party could delay a day or two at Hungary Creek to give the advance team time to mark the route before they catch up, which would prevent delays in areas where there’s no food available for our horses. If it happens that the advance team can’t find the road by the tree markings after trying for two days, the whole group would return to the main party. In that case, we would take back our supplies and try to cross these mountains through the land of the Shoshones further south by way of the main southwest fork of Lewis's River and Madison or Gallatin’s Rivers, where, according to the Chopunnish, there is a passage that isn’t blocked by snow this time of year, although the route is quite long and would take at least a month to complete. When we first encountered the Shoshones, they told us there was a passage across the mountains in that direction but mentioned the difficulties posed by steep, high, and rugged mountains, as well as a vast, barren plain that would need to be crossed without game, making it far more challenging than the route we took to get here. Because the Chopunnish are at war with the part of the Shoshones that inhabit this side of the mountains through which the road passes, I think it's very likely they aren’t well-informed about the road. Furthermore, if there were a better road in that area, the Shoshones on the east fork of Lewis’s River, who know both regions, wouldn’t have recommended the route by which we arrived in this area. Traveling in the mountains on the snow right now is quite good; the snow supports the horses perfectly. It’s firm, coarse snow without a crust, giving the horses good footing without slipping much. The only difficulty is finding the road, and I believe the plan we’ve come up with will work even if we can’t find a guide. Although the snow may average about 10 feet deep, around the bases of the trees it has melted much more than in other areas, usually being only one or two feet deep right at the roots, so the marks left by the rubbing of the Indian baggage against them are still visible. I presume the reason the snow is relatively shallow around the roots of the trees is due to the snow falling being brushed off by their thick branches and the sunshine reflecting against the trees, along with some warmth they gain from the ground, which never freezes underneath these snow piles. Bratton's horse was also noticed missing this evening. I assume he has also returned to the flats.
[Clark, June 20, 1806]
Friday June 20th 1806 The hunters turned out early in different directions, our guiggers also turned out with 2 guigs a Bayonet fixed on a pole, a Scooping nett and a Snar made of horse. near the ford of the Creek in a deep hole we killed Six Salmon trout & 2 others were killed in the Creek above in the evening. Reubin Field killed a redish brown bear which was very meagure. the tallons of this bear was remarkably Short broad at their base and Sharply pointed, this was of the Species the Chopunnish call Yahkar. as it was in very low order the flesh was indifferent. Labiesh & Crusat returned late in the evening with one deer which the former had killed. the hunters assured us that, their greatest exertions would not enable them to support us here more than one or two days longer, from the great scercity of game and the dificuelt access of the Country, the under brush being very thick and great quantities of fallen timber. as we shall necessarily be compelled to remain more than two days for the return of Drewyer & Shannon we determine to return in the morning as far as the quawmash flatts, and endeaver to lay in another Stock of meat for the mountains, our former Stock now being nearly exhosted as well as what we have killed on our rout. by returning to the quawmash flatts we Shall Sooner be informed wheather or not we can precure a guide to conduct us through the Mountains; Should we fail in precureing one, we are deturmined to wrisk a passage on the following plan immediately, because Should we wait much longer, or untill the Snow disolves in Such manner as to enable us to follow the road we cannot expect to reach the U States this Winter; this is that Capt. L. or myself shall take four of our most expert woods men with 3 or four of our best horses and proceed two days in advance takeing a plentiful Supply of provisions. for this party to follow the road by the mark the indins have made in many places with their baggage on the Sides of the trees by rubbing against them, and to blaize the trees with a tomahawk as they proceed. that after proceeding two days in advance of Hungary Creek, two of those men would be sent back to the party who by the time of their return to hungary Creek would have reached that place. the men So returning would be enabled to inform the main party of the probable Suckcess of the proceeding party in finding the road and of their probable progress, in order that Should it be necessary, the main party by a delay of a day or two a hungary Creek, should give the advance time to make the road through before the main party could overtake them, and thus prevent delay on that part of the rout where no food is to be obtained for our horses. Should it So happen that the advance Should not find the road by the marks of the trees after attempting it for two days, the whole of them would return to the main party. in which Case we would bring back our baggage and attempt a passage over the Mountains through the Country of the Shoshones further to the South, by way of the main S Westerly fork of Lewis's river and Madisons or Gallitins river's, where from the information of the Chopunnish, there is a passage where at this season of the year is not obstructed by snow, though the round is very distant and would require at least a month in it's preformance. The Shoshones informed us when we first met with them that there was a passage across the Mountains in that quarter but represented the difficuelties arriseing from Steep ruggid high mountains, and also an extensive and barren plain which was to be passed without game, as infinitely more difficuelt than the rout by which we Came. from the Circumstance of the Chopunnish being at war with that part of the Shoshones who inhabit the Country on this side of the Mountains through which the road passes, I think it is highly probable they cannot be well informed with respect to the road, and further, had there been a better road in that quarter the Shoshones on the East fork of Lewis's river who knew them boath would not have recommend'd that by which we came to this country. The travelling in the Mountains on the Snow, at present is very good, the Snow bears the horses perfectly; it is a firm coase Snow without a crust, and the horses have good foot hold without slipping much; the only dificuelty is finding the road, and I think the plan we have devised will Suckceed even Should we not be enabled to obtain a guide. altho the Snow may be Stated on an average at 10 feet deep, yet arround the body of the trees it has disolved much more than in other parts, not being generally more than one or two feet deep imediately at the roots of the trees, and of course the marks made by the rubbing of the Indian baggage against them is not Concealed. The reason why the Snow is comparitively So Shallow about the roots of the trees, 1 prosume proceeds as well from the Snow in falling being thrown off from their bodies by the thick and Spreading branches, as from the reflection of the Sun against the trees and the warmth which they in Some measure acquire from the earth which is never frozen underneath those masses of Snow. 4 of our horses are absent.
Friday, June 20th, 1806: The hunters set out early in different directions, and our group also headed out with 2 long poles with bayonets attached, a scoop net, and a horse-made snare. Near the ford of the creek, in a deep hole, we caught six salmon trout, and two more were caught in the creek upstream in the evening. Reubin Field killed a reddish-brown bear that was very lean. The claws of this bear were notably short, broad at the base, and sharply pointed; this is the type that the Chopunnish call Yahkar. Since the bear was in poor condition, the meat was not very good. Labiesh and Crusat returned late in the evening with one deer, which Labiesh had killed. The hunters assured us that their best efforts could only support us here for one or two more days due to the severe scarcity of game and the difficult terrain, with thick underbrush and a lot of fallen timber. Since we would have to stay more than two days for the return of Drewyer and Shannon, we decided to head back in the morning to the quawmash flats and try to stock up on more meat for the mountains, as our previous supply was nearly exhausted along with what we had killed on our way. By returning to the quawmash flats, we would be able to find out sooner whether we could get a guide to lead us through the mountains. If we fail to secure one, we intend to risk a passage immediately with this plan: either Captain L. or I will take four of our best woodsmen with three or four of our best horses and head out two days in advance with plenty of supplies. This group will follow the trail marked by the Indians who left signs on the trees with their baggage and blaze the trees with a tomahawk as they go. After traveling for two days beyond Hungary Creek, two of those men will return to the main group, who by the time of their return should have reached that place. The two returning men will be able to update the main group on the likely success of the scouting party in finding the road and their probable progress, allowing the main party to delay one or two days at Hungary Creek if necessary, giving the advance group time to clear the route before the main group overtakes them, thus avoiding delays in the sections where there is no food for our horses. If the advance team cannot find the road by the tree markings after two days of trying, they will all return to the main group. In that case, we would bring back our supplies and attempt to cross the mountains through the Shoshone territory further south, along the main southwestern fork of Lewis's River and Madison or Gallatin Rivers, where the Chopunnish told us there is a route that is not blocked by snow at this time of year, although the journey is quite distant and would take at least a month to complete. The Shoshones informed us when we first met them that there was a way across the mountains in that direction but warned of the challenges due to steep, rugged mountains and a vast barren plain that needs to be crossed without any game, making it much more difficult than the route we came by. Given that the Chopunnish are at war with the part of the Shoshones inhabiting this side of the mountains where the road passes, I believe it's unlikely they have accurate information about the road. Furthermore, if there had been a better route in that direction, the Shoshones on the East fork of Lewis's River, who knew both routes, wouldn't have recommended the one we took to get here. Currently, traveling in the mountains on the snow is quite good; the snow supports the horses well. It's firm, coarse snow without a crust, and the horses have solid footing without slipping much; the only difficulty is finding the trail. I think the plan we've come up with will succeed even if we can't find a guide. Although the snow averages around 10 feet deep, it has melted significantly around the bases of the trees, generally being only one or two feet deep right at the roots, thus making the marks left by the rubbing of Indian baggage visible. The reason the snow is relatively shallow around the roots of the trees, I suppose, is due to the snow being thrown off by the thick, spreading branches, as well as the warmth from the sun reflecting off the trees and the warmth they receive from the ground, which never freezes under those piles of snow. Four of our horses are missing.
[Lewis, June 21, 1806]
Saturday June 21st 1806. We collected our horses early set out on our return to the flatts. we all felt some mortification in being thus compelled to retrace our steps through this tedious and difficult part of our rout, obstructed with brush and innumerable logs of fallen timber which renders the traveling distressing and even dangerous to our horses. one of Thompson's horses is either choked this morning or has the distemper very badly I fear he is to be of no further service to us. an excellent horse of Cruzatte's snagged himself so badly in the groin in jumping over a parsel of fallen timber that he will evidently be of no further service to us. at the pass of Collin's Creek we met two indians who were on their way over the mountain; they had brought with them the three horses and the mule that had left us and returned to the quawmash grounds. these indians returned with us about 1/2 a mile down the creek where we halted to dine and graize our horses at the same place I had halted and remained all night with the party on the ____ of Septembr last. as well as we could understand the indians they informed us that they had seen Drewyer and Shannon and that they would not return untill the expiration of two days; the cause why Drewyer and Shannon had not returned with these men we are at a loss to account for. we pressed these indians to remain with us and to conduct us over the mountain on the return of Drewyer and Shannon. they consented to remain two nights for us and accordingly deposited their store of roots and bread in the bushes at no great distance and after dinner returned with us, as far as the little prarie about 2 miles distant from the creek, here they halted with their horses and informed us they would remain untill we overtook them or at least two nights. they had four supenumery horses with them. we sent on four hunters a head to the quawmash flatts to take an evenings hunt; they so far succeeded as to kill one deer. we left Reubin and J. Feilds at the Creek where we dined together with Sergt Gass in order to hunt about that place untill our return. at seven in the evening we found ourselves once more at our old encampment where we shall anxiously await the return of Drewyer and Shannon.
Saturday, June 21, 1806. We gathered our horses early and set out to return to the flats. We all felt some embarrassment in having to retrace our steps through this tedious and difficult part of our route, obstructed by brush and countless fallen logs, which made traveling uncomfortable and even dangerous for our horses. One of Thompson's horses seems to be choked this morning, or he has a bad case of distemper; I fear he will be of no further use to us. An excellent horse belonging to Cruzatte injured himself badly in the groin while jumping over some fallen timber, so he will also be of no further use to us. At Collin's Creek Pass, we encountered two Indians who were on their way over the mountain; they had brought back the three horses and the mule that had broken away and returned to the quawmash grounds. These Indians accompanied us about half a mile down the creek, where we stopped to have lunch and let our horses graze at the same spot I had stopped and stayed overnight with the party on the ____ of September last year. As best as we could understand them, the Indians told us they had seen Drewyer and Shannon and that they wouldn’t return until two days had passed; we are uncertain why Drewyer and Shannon didn’t come back with the Indians. We urged the Indians to stay with us and guide us over the mountain when Drewyer and Shannon returned. They agreed to stay for two nights and left their supply of roots and bread in the bushes not far away. After lunch, they accompanied us as far as the little prairie about two miles from the creek, where they stopped with their horses and told us they would wait until we caught up with them or at least for two nights. They had four extra horses with them. We sent four hunters ahead to the quawmash flats for an evening hunt; they were able to kill one deer. We left Reubin and J. Fields at the creek, where we all had lunch with Sgt. Gass so they could hunt around that area until we returned. By seven in the evening, we found ourselves back at our old campsite, where we will anxiously wait for the return of Drewyer and Shannon.
[Clark, June 21, 1806]
Saturday June 21st 1806 We collected our horses early and Set out on our return to the flatts. we all felt Some mortification in being thus compelled to retrace our Steps through this tedious and difficuelt part of our rout, obstructed with brush and innumerable logs and fallen timber which renders the traveling distressing and even dangerous to our horses. one of Thompsons horses is either choked this morning or has the distemper badly. I fear he is to be of no further Survice to us. an excellent horse of Cruzatt's snagged himself So badly in the groin in jumping over a parcel of fallen timber that he will eventually be of no further Survice to us. at the pass of Collin's Creek we met two indians who were on their way over the mountains, they had brought with them the three horses and the Mule which had left us and returned to the quawmash ground. those indians returned with us about 1/2 a mile down the Creek where we halted to dine and graze our horses. as well as we Could understand the indians they informed us they had Seen Geo Drewyer & Shannon, and that they would not return untill the expiration of two days. the cause why Drewyer & Shannon did not return with these men we are at a loss to account for. we pressed those indians to remain with us and conduct us over the Mountains on the return of Drewyer & Shannon. they consented to remain two nights for us and accordingly deposited their Stores of roots & Bread in the bushes at no great distance and after Dinner returned with us, as far as the little prarie about 2 Miles distance from the Creek, here they halted with their horses and informed us they would remain untill we overtook them or at least 2 nights. they had four Supernoumery horses with them. We Sent on four hunters a head to the quawmash flatts to make an evening hunt; they So far Suckceeded as to kill one deer. We left R. and Jo. Fields at the Creek where we dined, and Sergt. Gass in order to hunt about that place untill our return. at 7 in the evening we found ourselves once more at our old encampment where we Shall anxiously await the return of Drewyer & Shannon.
Saturday, June 21st, 1806 We gathered our horses early and set out on our return to the flats. We all felt some disappointment in having to retrace our steps through this tedious and difficult part of our route, blocked by brush and countless logs and fallen timber, which made traveling uncomfortable and even dangerous for our horses. One of Thompson's horses seems to have choked this morning or has a bad illness. I fear he will be of no further use to us. An excellent horse of Cruzatt's got severely injured in the groin while jumping over some fallen timber, and he will also be of no further use to us. At the pass of Collins Creek, we met two Indians who were on their way over the mountains; they had brought with them the three horses and the mule that had left us and returned to the quawmash ground. Those Indians accompanied us about half a mile down the creek, where we stopped to have lunch and let our horses graze. From what we could understand, they informed us that they had seen Geo Drewyer and Shannon, and that they wouldn't return until two days had passed. We are puzzled about why Drewyer and Shannon did not come back with these men. We urged the Indians to stay with us and guide us over the mountains when Drewyer and Shannon returned. They agreed to stay for two nights and left their supplies of roots and bread in the bushes nearby. After lunch, they came back with us as far as the little prairie about two miles from the creek, where they stopped with their horses and told us they would wait until we caught up with them or at least for two nights. They had four strong horses with them. We sent four hunters ahead to the quawmash flats to do some evening hunting; they succeeded in killing one deer. We left R. and Jo. Fields at the creek where we had lunch, and Sergeant Gass to hunt around that area until our return. At 7 in the evening, we found ourselves back at our old campsite, where we will anxiously wait for the return of Drewyer and Shannon.
[Lewis, June 22, 1806]
Sunday June 22nd 1806. this morning by light all hands who could hunt were sent out; the result of this days perfomance was greater than we had even hoped for. we killed eight deer and three bear. we dispatched Whitehouse to the Kooskooske near our old encampment above Collins's Creek in order to procure some Salmon which we have understood the natives are now taking in considerable quantities near that place. we gave Whitehouse a few beads which Capt. C. had unexpectedly found in one of his waistcoat pockets to purchase the fish. nothing further worthy of notice occurred in the course of this day. the last evening was cool but the day was remarkably pleasent with a fine breize from the N. W. neither Drewyer Shannon nor Whitehouse returned this evening.—Potts's legg is inflamed and very painfull to him. we apply a poltice of the roots of Cows.-
Sunday, June 22, 1806. This morning at dawn, everyone who could hunt was sent out; the results of today’s efforts exceeded our expectations. We killed eight deer and three bears. We sent Whitehouse to the Kooskooske near our old camp above Collins's Creek to get some salmon, which we've heard the natives are catching in large amounts near that area. We gave Whitehouse a few beads that Captain C. unexpectedly found in one of his waistcoat pockets to buy the fish. Nothing else noteworthy happened today. Last evening was cool, but the day was remarkably pleasant with a nice breeze from the northwest. Neither Drewyer, Shannon, nor Whitehouse returned this evening. Potts's leg is inflamed and very painful for him. We’re applying a poultice made from cow roots.
[Clark, June 22, 1806]
Sunday June 22nd 1806 This morning by light all hands who Could hunt were Sent out, the result of the days performance was greater than we had even hopes for. we killed eight Deer and three Bear. we despatched whitehouse to the Kooskooke near our old encampment above Collins Creek in order to precure Some Salmon which we understood the nativs are now takeing in considerable quantities near that place. we gave whitehouse a fiew beeds which I unexpectedly found in one of my waistcoat pockets to purchase the fish. nothing further occured in the Course of this day. the last evening was Cool but the day was remarkably pleasant with a fine breeze from the N. W. neither Shannon Drewyer nor whitehouse returned this evening.—Potts legg is inflamed and very painfull to him. we apply a poltice of the root of Cowes
Sunday, June 22nd, 1806 This morning, at first light, everyone who could hunt was sent out. The results of the day were better than we had hoped for. We killed eight deer and three bears. We sent Whitehouse to the Kooskooke, near our old camp above Collins Creek, to get some salmon, which we heard the natives are currently catching in large quantities. We gave Whitehouse a few beads I unexpectedly found in one of my waistcoat pockets to buy the fish. Nothing else happened throughout the day. Last evening was cool, but the day was really pleasant with a nice breeze from the northwest. Neither Shannon Drewyer nor Whitehouse returned this evening. Potts' leg is inflamed and very painful for him. We applied a poultice made from the root of Cowes.
[Lewis, June 23, 1806]
Monday June 23rd 1806. Apprehensive from Drewyer's delay that he had met with some difficulty in procuring a guide, and also that the two indians who had promised to wait two nights for us would set out today, we thought it most advisable to dispatch Frazier and Wiser to them this morning with a vew if possible to detain them a day or two longer; and directed that in the event of their not being able to detain the indians, that Sergt. Gass, R & J. Feilds and Wiser should accompany the indians by whatever rout they might take to travellers rest and blaize the trees well as they proceeded and wait at that place untill our arrivall with the party. the hunters as usual wer dispatched early this morning. the does now having their fawns the hunters can bleat them up and in that manner kill them with more facility and ease. the indians pursue the game so much on horseback in this neighbourhood that it is very shye. our hunters killed 4 deer and a bear today. at 4 P.M. Drewyer Shannon and Whitehouse returned. Drewyer brought with him three indians who had consented to accompany us to the falls of the Missouri for the compensation of two guns. one of those men is the brother of the cutnose and the other two are the same who presented Capt. Clark and myself each with a horse on a former occasion at the Lodge of the broken arm. these are all young men of good character and much respected by their nation. we directed the horses to be brought near camp this evening and secured in such manner that they may be readily obtained in the morning being determined to make an early start if possible.—Colter one of our hunters did not return this evening.
Monday, June 23rd, 1806. Worried about Drewyer's delay, thinking he might be having trouble finding a guide, and also concerned that the two Indians who agreed to wait for us for two nights would leave today, we decided it would be best to send Frazier and Wiser to them this morning to try to convince them to stay another day or two. We instructed that if they couldn't keep the Indians, Sergt. Gass, R & J. Fields, and Wiser should follow the Indians by whatever route they took to Travelers Rest, marking the trees well as they went, and wait there until we arrived with the main party. The hunters were sent out early this morning. With the does having their fawns now, the hunters can call them in and kill them more easily. The Indians around here hunt so much on horseback that the game is quite wary. Our hunters killed four deer and a bear today. At 4 P.M., Drewyer, Shannon, and Whitehouse returned. Drewyer brought three Indians who agreed to accompany us to the falls of the Missouri for the price of two guns. One of these men is the brother of Cutnose, and the other two are the same ones who gave Capt. Clark and me each a horse on a previous occasion at the Lodge of the Broken Arm. They are all young men of good character and well-respected in their community. We instructed that the horses be brought close to camp this evening and secured so they can be easily accessed in the morning, as we are determined to make an early start if possible. Colter, one of our hunters, did not return this evening.
[Clark, June 23, 1806]
Monday June 23rd 1806 Apprehensive from Drewyer & Shannons delay that they had met with Some dif icuelty in precureing a guide, and also that the two indians who had promised to wait two nights for us would Set out today, we thought it most adviseable to dispatch Wizer & Frazier to them this morning with a view if possible to detain them a day or two longer; and directed that in the event of their not being able to detain the indians, that Sergt. Gass, Jo. & R. Field & Wiser Should accompany the Indians by whatever rout they might take to travellers rest and blaize the trees well as they proceeded, and wait at that place untill our arival with the party. the hunters as usial were dispatched early this morning. The does now haveing their young the hunters can blait them up, and in that manner kill them with more facillity and ease. the indians pursue the game So much on horse back in this neighbourhood that it is very Shye. our hunters killed ____ deer today. at 4 P.M. Shannon Drewyer & Whitehouse returned. Shannon & Drewyer brought with them three indians who had consented to accompany us to the falls of the Missouri for the Compensation of 2 guns. one of those men is the brother of the Cutnose and the other two are the Same who presented Capt L. and myself with a horse on a former occasion at the Lodge of the broken arm, and the two who promised to pursue us in nine nights after we left the river, or on the 19th inst. Those are all young men of good Charrector and much respected by their nation. those men infor us that thir nation as well as the Wallar-wallars have made peace with the Shoshones agreeable to our late advice to them. they also inform us that they have heard by means of the Skeetsomis Nation & Clarks river that the Big bellies of Fort de Prarie Killed great numbers of the Shoshons and Otte lee Shoots which we met with last fall on the East fork of Lewis's river and high up the West fork of Clarks river &c.
Monday, June 23rd, 1806. Worried about Drewyer and Shannon's delay, we thought they must have encountered some difficulty in finding a guide. Also, since the two Indians who promised to wait for us would leave today, we decided it would be best to send Wizer and Frazier to them this morning to try to keep them for another day or two. We instructed that if they couldn’t keep the Indians, Sergt. Gass, Jo, R. Field, and Wizer should go with the Indians no matter which route they took to Traveler's Rest, marking the trees well as they went, and wait there until we arrived with the rest of the party. As usual, the hunters were sent out early this morning. With the does having their young, the hunters can more easily and effectively hunt them. The Indians in this area pursue game on horseback so much that it becomes very shy. Our hunters killed ____ deer today. At 4 PM, Shannon, Drewyer, and Whitehouse returned. Shannon and Drewyer brought back three Indians who agreed to join us to the falls of the Missouri for the price of 2 guns. One of these men is the brother of Cutnose, and the other two are the same ones who gave Capt. L. and me a horse on a previous occasion at the Lodge of the Broken Arm. They are also the two who promised to catch up with us nine nights after we left the river, which was on the 19th. All of them are young men of good character and are well respected in their nation. They informed us that their nation, along with the Wallar-wallars, has made peace with the Shoshones, according to our recent advice to them. They also mentioned that they learned from the Skeetsomis Nation and Clark's River that the Big Bellies at Fort de Prairie killed many of the Shoshones and Otte Lee Shoots whom we encountered last fall on the East Fork of Lewis's River and further up the West Fork of Clark's River, etc.
We directed the horses to be brought near Camp and secured in Such a manner that they may be readily obtained in the morning being deturmined to make an early Start if possible-.—Colter one of our hunters did not return this evening
We had the horses brought close to camp and tied up in a way that we'd easily get them in the morning, as we were set on making an early start if we could. Colter, one of our hunters, didn’t come back this evening.
[Lewis, June 24, 1806]
Tuesday June 24th 1806. We collected our horses early this morning and set out accompanyed by our three guides. Colter joined us this morning having killed a bear, which from his discription of it's poverty and distance we did not think proper to send after. we nooned it as usual at Collins's Creek where we found Frazier, solus; the other four men having gone in pursuit of the two indian men who had set out from Collins's Creek two hours before Frazier and Wizer arrived. after dinner we continued our rout to Fish Creek a branch of Collins's Creek where we had lain on the 19th & 20th inst. here we found Sergt. Gass Wiser and the two indians whom they had prevailed on to remain at that place untill our arrival; R. & J. Feilds had only killed one small deer only while they lay at Collins's Creek and of this they had been liberal to the indians insomuch that they had no provision; they had gone on to the branch of hungary Creek at which we shall noon it tomorrow in order to hunt. we had fine grass for our horses this evening.
Tuesday, June 24th, 1806. We gathered our horses early this morning and set off with our three guides. Colter joined us today after having killed a bear, but based on his description of its condition and distance, we decided it wasn't worth sending someone to retrieve it. We took our usual lunch break at Collins's Creek, where we found Frazier by himself; the other four men had gone after two Indian men who left Collins's Creek two hours before Frazier and Wizer arrived. After lunch, we continued our route to Fish Creek, a branch of Collins's Creek where we had stayed on the 19th and 20th. Here, we found Sergeant Gass, Wiser, and the two Indians they had convinced to wait for us until we arrived. R. & J. Fields had only managed to kill one small deer while they were at Collins's Creek, and they had shared it so generously with the Indians that they had no provisions left. They had moved on to the branch of Hungry Creek where we will stop for lunch tomorrow to hunt. This evening, we had good grass for our horses.
[Clark, June 24, 1806]
Tuesday June 24th 1806 We collected our horses early this morning and Set out accompanied by our 3 guides. Colter joined us this morning haveing killed a Bear, which from his discription of it's poverty and distance we did not think proper to send after. We nooned it as usial at Collins's Creek where we found Frazier, solus; the other four men haveing Born in pursute of the two indians who had Set out from Collin's Creek two hours before Fraziers arrival Wiser arrived there. after dinner we Continued our rout to fish Creek a branch of Collin's creek where we had lain the 15th 18th 19th & 20th inst. here we found Sargt. Gass, Wiser and the two indian men whome they had prevaild on to remain at that place untill our arival; Jos. & R. Field had killed one Small deer only while they lay at Collins creek, and of this they had been liberal to the indians insomuch that they had no provisions; they had gone on to the branch of hungary Creek at which we shall noon it tomorrow in order to hunt. we had fine grass for our horses this evening.
Tuesday, June 24, 1806 We rounded up our horses early this morning and set off with our three guides. Colter joined us this morning after having killed a bear, but based on his description of its condition and the distance, we decided it wasn't worth sending anyone after it. We took our usual lunch break at Collins's Creek, where we found Frazier alone; the other four men had gone after the two Indians who left Collins's Creek two hours before Frazier arrived. Wiser arrived shortly after. After lunch, we continued on our route to Fish Creek, a branch of Collins's Creek, where we had camped on the 15th, 18th, 19th, and 20th of this month. Here we found Sergeant Gass, Wiser, and the two Indian men whom they had convinced to wait at that location until we arrived; Jos. and R. Field had only managed to kill one small deer while at Collins Creek, and they had been generous enough to share it with the Indians, leaving them with no provisions. They had moved on to the branch of Hungary Creek, where we will stop for lunch tomorrow to hunt. We had good grass for our horses this evening.
[Lewis, June 25, 1806]
Wednesday June 25th 1806. last evening the indians entertained us with seting the fir trees on fire. they have a great number of dry lims near their bodies which when set on fire creates a very suddon and immence blaze from bottom to top of those tall trees. they are a beatifull object in this situation at night. this exhibition reminded me of a display of fireworks. the natives told us that their object in seting those trees on fire was to bring fair weather for our journey.—We collected our horses readily and set out at an early hour this morning. one of our guides complained of being unwell, a symptom which I did not much like as such complaints with an indian is generally the prelude to his abandoning any enterprize with which he is not well pleased. we left them at our encampment and they promised to pursue us in a few hours. at 11 A.M. we arrived at the branch of hungary creek where we found R. & J. Feilds. they had not killed anything. here we halted and dined and our guides overtook us. at this place I met with a plant the root of which the shoshones eat. it is a small knob root a good deel in flavor an consistency like the Jerusalem Artichoke. it has two small oval smooth leaves placed opposite on either side of the peduncle just above the root. the scape is only about 4 inches long is round and smooth. the roots of this plant formed one of those collections of roots which Drewyer took from the Shoshones last summer on the head of Jefferson's river. after dinner we continued our rout to hungary Creek and encamped about one and a half miles below our encampment of the 16th inst.—the indians continued with us and I beleive are disposed to be faithfull to their engagement. I gave the sik indian a buffaloe robe he having no other covering except his mockersons and a dressed Elkskin without the hair. Drewyer and Sheilds were sent on this morning to hungry Creek in surch of their horses which they fortunately recovered.
Wednesday, June 25, 1806. Last night, the Native Americans entertained us by setting the fir trees on fire. They have a lot of dry branches around their camp, which, when lit, create a sudden and huge blaze that rushes from the bottom to the top of those tall trees. It's a beautiful sight at night. This display reminded me of fireworks. The locals told us they set the trees on fire to bring good weather for our journey. We gathered our horses quickly and set off early this morning. One of our guides complained of feeling unwell, which I didn't like because when an Indian complains, it's usually a sign they might abandon any venture they’re not happy with. We left them at our campsite, and they promised to catch up with us in a few hours. At 11 A.M., we arrived at the branch of Hungry Creek where we found R. & J. Fields. They hadn’t hunted anything. We stopped here to have lunch, and our guides caught up with us. At this spot, I found a plant whose root the Shoshones eat. It's a small knob root with a good flavor and a texture similar to a Jerusalem artichoke. It has two small, smooth, oval leaves that are opposite each other on either side of the stem just above the root. The flower stalk is only about 4 inches long, round, and smooth. The roots of this plant were part of the collection that Drewyer took from the Shoshones last summer near the head of Jefferson's River. After lunch, we continued our route to Hungry Creek and set up camp about one and a half miles from our campsite of the 16th. The Indians stayed with us, and I believe they are willing to be loyal to their promise. I gave the sick Indian a buffalo robe, as he had no other covering except his moccasins and a dressed elk skin without hair. Drewyer and Shields were sent this morning to Hungry Creek in search of their horses, which they fortunately found.
[Clark, June 25, 1806]
Wednesday June 25th 1806 last evening the indians entertained us with Setting the fir trees on fire. they have a great number of dry limbs near their bodies which when Set on fire create a very Sudden and eminence blaize from bottom to top of those tail trees. they are a boutifull object in this Situation at night. this exhibition remide me of a display of firewoks. the nativs told us that their object in Setting those trees on fire was to bring fair weather for our journey-. We Collected our horses and Set out at an early hour this morning. one of our guides Complained of being unwell, a Symptom which I did not much like as such complaints with an indian is generally the prelude to his abandoning any enterprize with which he is not well pleased. we left 4 of those indians at our encampment they promised to pursue us in a fiew hours. at 11 A.M. we arrived at the branch of hungary Creek where we found Jo. & R. Fields. they had not killed anything. here we halted and dined and our guides overtook us. at this place the squaw Collected a parcel of roots of which the Shoshones Eat. it is a Small knob root a good deel in flavour and Consistency like the Jerusolem artichoke. it has two Small Smooth oval leaves placed opposit on either Side of the peduncle just above the root. the scope is only about 4 inches long is round and Smooth. the roots of this plant forms one of the Colection of roots which D-. took from the Shoshones last fall on the head of Jefferson river. after dinner we continued our rout to hungary creek and encamped about one and a half miles below our Encampment of the 16th inst.—The indians all continue with us and I beleive are disposed to be faithfull to their engagements. Capt. L. gave the Sick indian a Small buffalow robe which he brought from the Missouri, this indian having no other Covering except his mockersons and a dressed Elk Skin without the hair-. Drewyer & Shields were sent on this morning to hungary Creek in serch of their horses which they fortunately recovered.—-came ____ miles to daye.
Wednesday, June 25, 1806: Last night, the Native Americans entertained us by setting fire to the fir trees. They have a lot of dry branches near their bases, and when set on fire, they create a sudden and brilliant blaze from the bottom to the top of those tall trees. It's a beautiful sight at night. This display reminded me of fireworks. The natives told us that the reason they set those trees on fire was to bring good weather for our journey. We rounded up our horses and set out early this morning. One of our guides complained of feeling unwell, which I didn’t like because when an Indian shows signs of illness, it often means he might abandon any venture he’s not happy with. We left four of those Indians at our camp, and they promised to catch up with us in a few hours. At 11 A.M., we arrived at the branch of Hungry Creek, where we found Jo. & R. Fields. They hadn’t hunted anything. We stopped here to have lunch, and our guides caught up with us. At this spot, a squaw collected a bunch of roots that the Shoshones eat. They are small bulbous roots, quite flavorful and similar in texture to Jerusalem artichokes. They have two small smooth oval leaves opposite each other just above the root on the stem, which is only about four inches long, round, and smooth. The roots of this plant were part of the collection that D. took from the Shoshones last fall at the head of the Jefferson River. After lunch, we continued our route to Hungry Creek and set up camp about a mile and a half below our camp from the 16th. All the Indians are still with us, and I believe they intend to keep their commitments. Capt. L. gave the sick Indian a small buffalo robe he brought from Missouri, as this Indian had no other covering besides his moccasins and a dressed elk skin with the hair removed. Drewyer & Shields were sent this morning to Hungry Creek in search of their horses, which they thankfully recovered. — Came ____ miles today.
[Lewis, June 26, 1806]
Thursday June 26th 1806. This morning we collected our horses and set out after an early breakfast or at 6 A.M. we passed by the same rout we had travelled on the 17th inst. to our deposit on the top of the snowey mountain to the N. E. of hungary Creek. here we necessarily halted about 2 hours to arrange our baggage and prepare our loads. we cooked and made a haisty meal of boiled venison and mush of cows. the snow has subsided near four feet since the 17th inst. we now measured it accurately and found from a mark which we had made on a tree when we were last here on the 17th that it was then 10 feet 10 inches which appeared to be about the common debth though it is deeper still in some places. it is now generally about 7 feet. on our way up this mountain about the border of the snowey region we killed 2 of the small black pheasant and a female of the large dommanicker or speckled pheasant, the former have 16 fathers in their tail and the latter 20 while the common pheasant have only 18. the indians informed us that neither of these speceis drumed; they appear to be very silent birds for I never heared either of them make a noise in any situation. the indians haistened to be off and informed us that it was a considerable distance to the place which they wished to reach this evening where there was grass for our horses. accordingly we set out with our guides who lead us over and along the steep sides of tremendious mountains entirely covered with snow except about the roots of the trees where the snow had sometimes melted and exposed a few square feet of the earth. we ascended and decended severall lofty and steep hights but keeping on the dividing ridge between the Chopunnish and Kooskooske rivers we passed no stream of water. late in the evening much to the satisfaction of ourselves and the comfort of our horses we arrived at the desired spot and encamped on the steep side of a mountain convenient to a good spring. having passed a few miles our camp of 18 Sepr 1805 here we found an abundance of fine grass for our horses. this situation was the side of an untimbered mountain with a fair southern aspect where the snows from appearance had been desolved about 10 days. the grass was young and tender of course and had much the appearance of the greenswoard. there is a great abundance of a speceis of bear-grass which grows on every part of these mountains it's growth is luxouriant and continues green all winter but the horses will not eat it. soon after we had encamped we were overtaken by a Chopunnish man who had pursued us with a view to accompany me to the falls of the Missouri. we were now informed that the two young men whom we met on the 21st and detained several days are going on a party of pleasure mearly to the Oote-lash-shoots or as they call them Sha-lees a band of the Tush-she-pah nation who reside on Clark's river in the neighbourhood of traveller's rest. one of our guides lost 2 of his horses, which he returned in surch of; he found them and rejoined us a little before dark.
Thursday, June 26, 1806. This morning, we gathered our horses and set off after an early breakfast at 6 A.M. We took the same route we traveled on the 17th to our stash on top of the snowy mountain northeast of Hungary Creek. We had to stop for about 2 hours to organize our gear and prepare our loads. We cooked a quick meal of boiled venison and corn mush. The snow has melted about four feet since the 17th. We measured it accurately and found that, based on a mark we made on a tree during our last visit on the 17th, it was then 10 feet 10 inches deep, which seemed to be the average depth, although it is deeper in some spots. It is now generally about 7 feet deep. On our way up the mountain, near the edge of the snowy region, we killed 2 small black pheasants and a female of the large speckled pheasant. The former have 16 feathers in their tail, and the latter has 20, while the common pheasant has only 18. The Indians told us that neither of these species make a sound; they seem to be very quiet birds because I never heard either of them make noise in any situation. The Indians were eager to leave and informed us that it was quite a distance to the spot they wanted to reach that evening, where there was grass for our horses. So, we set out with our guides, who took us over and along the steep sides of enormous mountains entirely covered with snow, except for the areas around the tree roots where the snow had sometimes melted and revealed a few square feet of ground. We ascended and descended several lofty and steep heights but stayed on the ridge between the Chopunnish and Kooskooske rivers, so we didn't cross any streams. Late in the evening, much to our satisfaction and the comfort of our horses, we reached the desired location and set up camp on the steep side of a mountain near a good spring. Having passed a few miles from our camp of September 18, 1805, we found plenty of fine grass for our horses. This location was on the side of an unwooded mountain with a nice southern exposure, where the snow had melted about 10 days ago. The grass was young and tender, resembling new sod. There is a lot of a type of bear-grass that grows all over these mountains; its growth is lush and stays green all winter, but the horses won’t eat it. Soon after we set up camp, we were joined by a Chopunnish man who had been following us to accompany me to the falls of the Missouri. We learned that the two young men we met on the 21st and kept for several days were going on a leisure trip to the Oote-lash-shoots, or as they call them, Sha-lees, a band of the Tush-she-pah nation who live on Clark's River near Traveler's Rest. One of our guides lost 2 of his horses, which he went back to search for; he found them and rejoined us just before dark.
[Clark, June 26, 1806]
Thursday June 26th 1806 We collected our horses and Set out early and proceeded on Down hungary Creek a fiew miles and assended to the Summit of the mountain where we deposited our baggage on the 17th inst. found every thing Safe and as we had left them. the Snow which was 10 feet 10 inches deep on the top of the mountain, had sunk to 7 feet tho perfectly hard and firm. we made Some fire Cooked dinner and dined, while our horses Stood on snow 7 feet deep at least. after dinner we packed up and proceeded on. about the borders of the Snowey region we killed 2 Small black pheasents and a female of the large dommanicker or Speckled pheasent, the former have 16 feathers in the tail and the latter 20 while the common Pheasent have 18. the indians informed us that neither of these Speces drumed; they appear to be very Silent birds for I never heard any of them make any noise. the Indians hastened us off and informed us that it was a considerable distance to the place they wished to reach this evening where there was grass for our horses. accordingly we Set out with our guides who led us over and along the Steep Sides of tremendious Mountains entirely covered with Snow except about the roots of the trees where the Snow was partially melted and exposed a Small Spot of earth. we assended and decended Several Steep lofty hights but keeping on the dividing ridge of the Chopunnish & Kooskooske river we passed no Stream of water. late in the evening much to the Satisfaction of ourselves and the Comfort of the horses we arived at the desired Spot and Encamped on the Steep Side of a Mountain Convenient to a good Spring. here we found an abundance of fine grass for our horses. this Situation was the Side of an untimbered mountain with a fair Southern aspect where the Snow from appearance had been disolved about 10 days, the grass was young and tender of course and had much the appearance of the Green Swoard. there is a great abundance of Species of bear grass which grows on every part of those Mountains, its growth is luxurient and continues green all winter but the horses will not eate it. Soon after we had encamped we were over taken by a Chopunnish man who had pursued us with a view to accompany Capt Lewis to the falls of Missouri. we were now informed that the two young men we met on the 21st and detained Several days were going on a party of pleasure mearly to the Oat-lash-shoots or as they call them Sha-lees a band of the Tush-she-pah Nation who reside on Clarks river in the neighbourhood of the Mouth of Travelers rest. one of our Guides lost 2 of his horses, he returned in Serch of them he found them & rejoined us at Dark. all of the Indians with us have two & 3 horses each. I was taken yesterday with a violent pain in my head which has tormented me ever Since, most violently
Thursday, June 26, 1806 We gathered our horses and set out early, moving down Hungary Creek for a few miles before climbing to the summit of the mountain where we had left our baggage on the 17th. Everything was safe and just as we had left it. The snow, which had been 10 feet 10 inches deep at the top of the mountain, had settled to 7 feet but was still firm and solid. We built a fire, cooked dinner, and ate while our horses stood in snow that was at least 7 feet deep. After dinner, we packed up and continued on. Around the edge of the snowy area, we shot two small black pheasants and a female of the large speckled pheasant. The black pheasants have 16 feathers in their tails, while the speckled ones have 20, and the common pheasant has 18. The Indians told us that neither of these species makes a drumming sound; they seem to be very silent birds because I never heard any of them make noise. The Indians urged us to hurry along, saying it was quite a distance to the place they wanted to reach tonight, where there was grass for our horses. So, we set out with our guides, who led us along steep sides of enormous mountains entirely covered in snow, except near tree roots where the snow had partly melted and exposed small patches of earth. We ascended and descended several steep heights but stayed on the dividing ridge between the Chopunnish and Kooskooske rivers without crossing any streams. Late in the evening, much to our satisfaction and the comfort of the horses, we arrived at our intended spot and camped on the steep side of a mountain close to a good spring. Here, we found plenty of nice grass for our horses. This location was on the side of an unwooded mountain with a good southern exposure, where the snow had apparently melted about 10 days ago; the grass was young and tender, resembling green sod. There was a large amount of bear grass growing throughout the mountains, its growth being lush and staying green all winter, although the horses won’t eat it. Soon after we set up camp, we were joined by a Chopunnish man who had followed us intending to accompany Captain Lewis to the Falls of Missouri. We learned that the two young men we met on the 21st and had detained for several days were just going on a pleasure trip to the Oat-lash-shoots, or as they call them, Sha-lees, a band of the Tush-she-pah Nation who live on Clark's River near the mouth of Traveler's Rest. One of our guides lost two of his horses; he went back looking for them and found them, rejoining us in the dark. All of the Indians with us have two or three horses each. I was struck with a severe headache yesterday that has been tormenting me ever since, most intensely.
[Lewis, June 27, 1806]
Friday June 27th 1806. We collected our horses early and set out. the road still continued on the heights of the same dividing ridge on which we had traveled yesterday for nine miles or to our encampment of the 18th of September last. about one mile short of this encampment on an elivated point we halted by the request of the Indians a few minutes and smoked the pipe. on this eminence the natives have raised a conic mound of stones of 6 or eight feet high and on it's summit erected a pine pole of 15 feet long from hence they informed us that when passing over with their familes some of the men were usually sent on foot by the fishery at the entrance of Colt Creek in order to take fish and again met the main party at the Quawmash glade on the head of the Kooskooske river. from this place we had an extensive view of these stupendous mountains principally covered with snow like that on which we stood; we were entirely surrounded by those mountains from which to one unacquainted with them it would have seemed impossible ever to have escaped; in short without the assistance of our guides I doubt much whether we who had once passed them could find our way to Travellers rest in their present situation for the marked trees on which we had placed considerable reliance are much fewer and more difficult to find than we had apprehended. these fellows are most admireable pilots; we find the road wherever the snow has disappeared though it be only for a few hundred paces. after smoking the pipe and contemplating this seene sufficient to have damp the sperits of any except such hardy travellers as we have become, we continued our march and at the distance of 3 ms. decended a steep mountain and passed two small branches of the Chopunnish river just above their forks and again ascended the ridge on which we passed several miles and at a distance of 7 ms. arrived at our encampment of September near which we passed 3 small branches of the Chopunnish river and again ascended to the dividing ridge on which we continued nine miles when the ridge became lower and we arrived at a situation very similar to our encampment of the last evening tho the ridge was somewhat higher and the snow had not been so long desolved of course there was but little grass. here we encamped for the night having traveled 28 miles over these mountains without releiving the horses from their packs or their having any food. the indians inform us that there is an abundance of the mountain sheep or what they call white buffaloe. we saw three black-tailed or mule deer this evening but were unable to get a shoot at them. we also saw several tracks of those animals in the snow. the indians inform that there is great abundance of Elk in the vally about the Fishery on the Kooskooske River. our meat being exhausted we issued a pint of bears oil to a mess which with their boiled roots made an agreeable dish. Potts's legg which has been much swolen and inflamed for several days is much better this evening and gives him but little pain. we applyed the pounded roots and leaves of the wild ginger & from which he found great relief.—neare our encampment we saw a great number of the yellow lilly with reflected petals in blume; this plant was just as forward here at this time as it was in the plains on the 10th of may.
Friday, June 27th, 1806. We gathered our horses early and set off. The road continued along the heights of the same ridge we had traveled yesterday for nine miles to reach our campsite from September 18th last year. About a mile short of this campsite, at an elevated point, we paused at the request of the Indians for a few minutes to smoke the pipe. On this rise, the natives had built a conical mound of stones 6 to 8 feet high and erected a 15-foot pine pole on top. They told us that when traveling with their families, some of the men would often go on foot to the fishery at the entrance of Colt Creek to catch fish and would later reunite with the main group at the Quawmash glade by the head of the Kooskooske River. From this spot, we had a sweeping view of the towering mountains, mainly covered in snow like the one we were on; we were completely surrounded by these mountains, which would seem impossible to escape for someone unfamiliar with them. Without the help of our guides, I seriously doubt we could navigate back to Traveler's Rest given how things are now, as the marked trees we had relied on are much fewer and harder to find than we anticipated. These guys are amazing navigators; they find the path wherever the snow has melted, even if it's only for a few hundred yards. After smoking the pipe and taking in the scene, which could dampen the spirits of anyone but the tough travelers we've become, we continued our march. We descended a steep mountain over a distance of 3 miles and crossed two small branches of the Chopunnish River just above their forks. We then climbed the ridge again, traveling several miles, and after 7 miles, we reached our campsite from September. Near there, we crossed three small branches of the Chopunnish River and ascended to the dividing ridge, where we continued for nine miles until the ridge became lower. We arrived at a spot very similar to our campsite from the previous evening, although the ridge was somewhat higher, and the snow hadn’t melted as long, so there was little grass. We camped here for the night after traveling 28 miles over these mountains without relieving the horses of their packs or giving them any food. The Indians told us there are plenty of mountain sheep, or what they call white buffalo. We spotted three black-tailed or mule deer this evening but couldn’t get a shot at them. We also saw several tracks of those animals in the snow. The Indians mentioned there are a lot of elk in the valley around the fishery on the Kooskooske River. Since our meat supply was gone, we distributed a pint of bear oil to a group, which, along with their boiled roots, made a decent meal. Potts's leg, which had been swollen and inflamed for several days, is much better this evening and gives him little pain. We applied pounded roots and leaves of wild ginger, which provided him with great relief. Near our campsite, we saw many yellow lilies with reflective petals in bloom; this plant was blooming here now just as it was in the plains on May 10th.
[Clark, June 27, 1806]
Friday June 27th 1806 We collected our horses early and Set out. the road Still Continue on the hights of the Dividing ridge on which we had traveled yesterday for 9 Ms. or to our encampment of the 16th Septr. last. about 1 m. Short of the encampment we halted by the request of the Guides a fiew minits on an ellevated point and Smoked a pipe on this eminance the nativs have raised a conic mound of Stons of 6 or 8 feet high and erected a pine pole of 15 feet long. from hence they informed us that when passing over with their families some of the men were usually Sent on foot by the fishery at the enterance of Colt Creek in order to take fish and again meet the party at the quawmash glade on the head of Kooskoske river. from this place we had an extencive view of these Stupendeous Mountains principally Covered with Snow like that on which we Stood; we were entirely Serounded by those mountains from which to one unacquainted with them it would have Seemed impossible ever to have escaped, in short without the assistance of our guides, I doubt much whether we who had once passed them could find our way to Travellers rest in their present Situation for the marked trees on which we had placed Considerable reliance are much fewer and more difficuelt to find than we had apprehended. those indians are most admireable pilots; we find the road wherever the Snow has disappeared tho it be only for a fiew paces. after haveing Smoked the pipe and Contemplating this Scene Sufficient to have dampened the Spirits of any except Such hardy travellers as we have become, we continued our march and at the dist. Of 3 m. decended a Steep mountain and passed two Small branches of the Chopunnish river just above their fok, and again assend the ridge on which we passed. at the distance of 7 m. arived at our Encampment of 16th Septr. last passed 3 Small branches passed on a dividing ridge rugid and we arived at a Situation very Similar to our Situation of last night tho the ridge was Somewhat higher and the Snow had not been So long disolved of course there was but little grass. here we Encamped for the night haveing traveled 28 Ms. over these mountains without releiveing the horses from their packs or their haveing any food. the Indians inform us that there is an abundance of the Mountain Sheep, or what they Call white Buffalow on those Mountains. we Saw 3 black tail or mule deer this evening but were unable to get a Shoot at them. we also Saw Several tracks of those animals in the snow. our Meat being exhosted we issued a point of Bears Oil to a mess which with their boiled roots made an agreeable dish. Jo. Potts leg which had been much Swelled and inflaimed for several days is much better this evening and givs him but little pain. we applied the poundd root & leaves of wild ginger from which he found great relief. Near our encampment we saw great numbers of the Yellow lilly with reflected petals in blume; this plant was just as foward here at this time as it was in the plains on the 10th of May. My head has not pained me so much to day as yesterday and last night.
Friday, June 27th, 1806 We gathered our horses early and set out. The road continued along the heights of the dividing ridge we had traveled yesterday for 9 miles, reaching our campsite from September 16th last year. About 1 mile short of the campsite, we paused at the request of the guides for a few minutes on an elevated point and smoked a pipe. On this mound, the natives have built a conical stone structure about 6 to 8 feet high and raised a 15-foot pine pole. They told us that when crossing with their families, some men would usually be sent on foot from the fishery at the entrance of Colt Creek to catch fish and then meet the party at the quawmash glade at the head of the Kooskoske River. From this spot, we had an expansive view of these stunning mountains, mainly covered in snow, like the one we stood on. We were completely surrounded by those mountains, which would have seemed impossible to escape for anyone unfamiliar with them. In short, without our guides' help, I doubt we could find our way to Traveler’s Rest in their current state since the marked trees we had relied upon were much fewer and harder to find than we had anticipated. Those Indians are remarkable navigators; they find the road wherever the snow has melted, even if just for a few paces. After smoking the pipe and contemplating this scene, which could dampen the spirits of anyone but the hardy travelers we've become, we continued our march and, after 3 miles, descended a steep mountain, passing two small branches of the Chopunnish River just above their fork, and ascended the ridge we had crossed. After traveling 7 miles, we arrived at our campsite from September 16th, having crossed 3 small branches and traversed a rugged dividing ridge. We reached a location very similar to where we had camped the previous night, though this ridge was somewhat higher, and the snow had not melted for long, so there was little grass. We set up camp for the night after covering 28 miles over these mountains without relieving the horses of their packs or feeding them. The Indians told us that there is an abundance of mountain sheep, or what they call white buffalo, on these mountains. We saw 3 black-tailed or mule deer this evening but couldn't get a shot at them. We also noticed several tracks of these animals in the snow. With our meat exhausted, we issued a point of bear oil to a mess, which, along with their boiled roots, made a satisfying dish. Jo. Potts’ leg, which had been swollen and inflamed for several days, is much better this evening and causes him little pain now. We applied the pounded root and leaves of wild ginger, which provided him great relief. Near our camp, we saw many yellow lilies with reflected petals in bloom; this plant was just as advanced here as it was in the plains on May 10th. My head has not hurt me as much today as it did yesterday and last night.
[Lewis, June 28, 1806]
Saturday June 28th 1806. This morning we collected our horses and set out as usual after an early breakfast. several of our horses had straggled to a considersble distance in surch of food but we were fortunate enough to find them in good time they look extreemly gant this morning, however the indians informed us that at noon we would arrive at a place where there was good food for them. we continued our rout along the dividing ridge passing one very deep hollow and at the distance of six miles passed our encampment of the 16 of September last, one and a half miles further we passed the road which leads by the fishery falling in on the wright immediately on the dividing ridge about eleven O'clock we arrived at an untimbered side of a mountain with a Southern aspect just above the fishery here we found an abundance of grass for our horses as the Indians had informed us. as our horses were very hungary and much fatiegued and from information no other place where we could obtain grass for them within the reach of this evening's travel we determined to remain at this place all night having come 13 miles only. the water was distant from our encampment we therefore melted snow and used the water principally. the whole of the rout of this day was over deep snows. we find the traveling on the snow not worse than without it, as the easy passage it gives us over rocks and fallen timber fully compensate for the inconvenience of sliping, certain it is that we travel considerably faster on the snow than without it. the snow sinks from 2 to 3 inches with a hors, is coarse and firm and seems to be formed of the larger and more dense particles of the snow; the surface of the snow is reather harder in the morning than after the sun shines on it a few hours, but it is not in that situation so dense as to prevent the horse from obtaining good foothold. we killed a small black pheasant; this bird is generally found in the snowey region of the mountains and feeds on the leaves of the pine and fir. there is a speceis of small whortleburry common to the hights of the mountains, and a speceis of grass with a broad succulent leaf which looks not unlike a flag; of the latter the horses are very fond, but as yet it is generally under the snow or mearly making it's appearance as it confined to the upper parts of the highest mountains.
Saturday, June 28th, 1806. This morning we gathered our horses and set out as usual after an early breakfast. Several of our horses had wandered off quite a distance in search of food, but we were lucky enough to find them in time. They looked extremely thin this morning; however, the Indians informed us that by noon we would reach a place where there was good food for them. We continued our route along the dividing ridge, passing a very deep hollow, and after six miles, we passed our camp from September 16th last year. A mile and a half further, we passed the road leading to the fishery, which comes in on the right just on the dividing ridge. Around eleven o'clock, we reached an unwooded side of a mountain facing south, just above the fishery. Here, we found plenty of grass for our horses, just as the Indians had told us. Since our horses were very hungry and tired, and there was no other place nearby where we could get grass for them during the evening’s travel, we decided to stay here for the night after covering only 13 miles. The water was far from our camp, so we melted snow and mostly used that for water. The entire route today was over deep snow. We found traveling on the snow wasn’t worse than traveling on solid ground since it made it easier to pass over rocks and fallen timber, which more than compensated for the inconvenience of slipping. It's clear that we travel significantly faster on the snow than on bare ground. The snow sinks about 2 to 3 inches under a horse; it’s coarse and firm and seems to consist of larger, denser snow particles. The surface of the snow is harder in the morning than it is after the sun has shone on it for a few hours, but it’s not so hard that horses can’t get good footing. We killed a small black pheasant; this bird is typically found in the snowy mountain regions and feeds on the leaves of pine and fir trees. There is a type of small huckleberry common to the heights of the mountains, along with a species of grass that has broad, succulent leaves resembling a flag. The horses are very fond of the latter, but for now, it’s mostly under the snow or just beginning to appear, as it is limited to the upper areas of the highest mountains.
[Clark, June 28, 1806]
Saturday June 28th 1806 This morning we Colected our horses and Set out as usial after an early brackfast. we continued our rout along the dividig ridge over knobs & through deep hollows passed our encampmt of the 14 Sept. last near the forks of the road leaving the one on which we had Came one leading to the fishery to our right imediately on the dividing ridge. at 12 oClock we arived at an untimberd side of a mountain with a southern aspect just above the fishery here we found an abundance of grass for our horses as the guids had informed us. as our horses were hungary and much fatiegued and from information no other place where we could obtain grass for them within the reach of this evening's travel we deturmined to remain at this place all night haveing come 13 m. only. the water was distant from our Encampment we therefore melted Snow and used the water. the whole of the rout of this day was over deep Snow. we find the travelling on the Snow not worse than without it, as easy passage it givs us over rocks and fallen timber fully compensates for the inconvenience of sliping, certain it is that we travel considerably faster on the snow than without it. the Snow Sinks from 2 to 3 inches with a horse, is course and firm and seems to be formed of the larger particles the surface of the snow sees to be rather harder in the morning than after the Sun Shines on it a fiew hours, but it is not in that situation so dense as to prevent the horses from obtaining good foothold. I killed a Small black pheasant; this bird is generally found in the Snowey region of the mountains and feeds on the leaves of the pine & fir. there is a Species of Small huckleberry common to the hights of the mountains, and a Species of grass with a broad succulent leaf which looks not unlike a flag; of the latter the horses are very fond, but as yet it is generally under the Snow, or mearly makeing it's appearance as it confined to the upper part of the highest mountains.
Saturday, June 28th, 1806 This morning we gathered our horses and set out as usual after an early breakfast. We continued our route along the dividing ridge over hills and through deep valleys, passing our camp from September 14th near the forks in the road, leaving the path we had taken leading to the fishery to our right, right on the dividing ridge. At 12 o'clock, we arrived at an unwooded side of a mountain facing south, just above the fishery. Here, we found plenty of grass for our horses, just as the guides had told us. Since our horses were hungry and very tired, and based on information that there was no other place where we could find grass within reach for this evening’s travel, we decided to stay here for the night after covering only 13 miles. The water was far from our camp, so we melted snow and used the water. The entire route today was over deep snow. We found that traveling on the snow wasn’t worse than on bare ground; the easy passage it provides over rocks and fallen timber more than makes up for the inconvenience of slipping. It is clear that we travel considerably faster on the snow than without it. The snow sinks 2 to 3 inches under a horse, is coarse and firm, and seems to consist of larger particles. The surface of the snow seems harder in the morning than after the sun shines on it for a few hours, but it’s not so dense that it prevents the horses from getting good footing. I shot a small black pheasant; this bird is usually found in the snowy mountain regions and feeds on the leaves of pine and fir. There is a type of small huckleberry common at high elevations in the mountains and a species of grass with broad, succulent leaves that looks somewhat like a flag. The horses are very fond of the latter, but it’s mostly still under the snow or just starting to appear, as it is confined to the upper parts of the highest mountains.
[Lewis, June 29, 1806]
Sunday June 29th 1806. We collected our horses early this morning and set out, having previously dispatched Drewyer and R. Fields to the warm springs to hunt. we pursued the hights of the ridge on which we have been passing for several days; it terminated at the distance of 5 ms. from our encampment and we decended to, and passed the main branch of the Kooskooske 11/2 ms. above the entrance of Quawmash creek wid falls in on the N. E. side. when we decended from this ridge we bid adieu to the snow. near the river we fund a deer which the hunters had killed and left us. this was a fortunate supply as all our oil was now exhausted and we were reduced to our roots alone without salt. the Kooskooske at this place is about 30 yds. wide and runs with great volocity. the bed as all the mountain streams is composed of smooth stones. beyond the river we ascended a very steep acclivity of a mountain about 2 Miles and arrived at it's summit where we found the old road which we had pased as we went out, coming in on our wright. the road was now much plainer and more beaten, which we were informed happened from the circumstance of the Ootslashshoots visiting the fishery frequently from the vally of Clark's river; tho there was no appearance of there having been here this spring. at noon we arrived at the quawmas flatts on the Creek of the same name and halted to graize our horses and dine having traveled 12 miles. we passed our encampment of the 13th of September at 10 ms. where we halted there is a pretty little plain of about 50 acres plentifully stocked with quawmash and from apperances this fromes one of the principal stages or encampments of the indians who pass the mountains on this road. we found after we had halted that one of our packhorses with his load and one of my riding horses were left behind. we dispatched J. Feilds and Colter in surch of the lost horses. after dinner we continued our march seven miles further to the warm springs where we arrived early in the evening and sent out several hunters, who as well as R Fields and Drewyer returned unsuccessful; late in the evening Colter and J. Fields joined us with the lost horses and brought with them a deer which they had killed, this furnished us with supper. these warm springs are situated at the base of a hill of no considerable hight on the N side and near the bank of travellers rest creek which at that place is about 10 yards wide. these springs issue from the bottoms and through the interstices of a grey freestone rock, the rock rises in iregular masy clifts in a circular range arround the springs on their lower side. immediately above the springs on the creek there is a handsome little quamas plain of about 10 acres. the prinsipal spring is about the temperature of the warmest baths used at the hot springs in Virginia. In this bath which had been prepared by the Indians by stoping the run with stone and gravel, I bathed and remained in 19 minutes, it was with dificulty I could remain thus long and it caused a profuse sweat two other bold springs adjacent to this are much warmer, their heat being so great as to make the hand of a person smart extreemly when immerced. I think the temperature of these springs about the same as the hotest of the hot springs in Virginia. both the men and indians amused themselves with the use of a bath this evening. I observed that the indians after remaining in the hot bath as long as they could bear it ran and plunged themselves into the creek the water of which is now as cold as ice can make it; after remaining here a few minutes they returned again to the warm bath, repeating this transision several times but always ending with the warm bath. I killed a small black pheasant near the quamash grounds this evening which is the first I have seen below the snowy region. I also saw some young pheasants which were about the size of Chickens of 3 days old. saw the track of two bearfoot indians who were supposed to be distressed rufugees who had fled from the Minnetares.
Sunday, June 29, 1806. We gathered our horses early this morning and set off, having previously sent Drewyer and R. Fields to the hot springs to hunt. We followed the heights of the ridge we had been traveling along for several days, which ended about 5 miles from our camp. We then descended to the main branch of the Kooskooske, 1.5 miles above the entrance to Quawmash Creek, which flows in from the northeast side. As we came down from this ridge, we said goodbye to the snow. Near the river, we found a deer that the hunters had killed and left for us. This was a lucky find since we were out of oil and were down to just our roots without any salt. The Kooskooske at this spot is about 30 yards wide and flows swiftly. Like all mountain streams, its bed is made up of smooth stones. Beyond the river, we climbed a very steep section of the mountain for about 2 miles until we reached the summit, where we found the old road we had taken when we left, coming in on our right. The road was now much clearer and more traveled, which we were told was due to the Ootslashshoots frequently visiting the fishery from the valley of Clark's River; however, there was no sign of them having been here this spring. At noon, we arrived at the Quawmas flats on the creek of the same name and stopped to graze our horses and have lunch after traveling 12 miles. We passed our camp from September 13th at 10 miles where we stopped; there’s a nice little plain of about 50 acres filled with quawmash, and it seems this is one of the main stopping points or camps for the Indians traveling across the mountains on this route. After we halted, we realized that one of our pack horses with its load and one of my riding horses had been left behind. We sent J. Fields and Colter to search for the lost horses. After lunch, we continued our journey another seven miles to the hot springs, arriving early in the evening, and sent out several hunters, but they, along with R. Fields and Drewyer, came back empty-handed. Late in the evening, Colter and J. Fields joined us with the lost horses and brought a deer they had killed, which gave us supper. These hot springs are located at the base of a hill of no significant height on the north side, near the bank of Travelers Rest Creek, which is about 10 yards wide at this point. The springs flow from the ground and through the gaps in a gray freestone rock, which rises in irregular, massive cliffs in a circular formation around the springs on their lower side. Just above the springs on the creek, there is a lovely little quamas plain of about 10 acres. The main spring is about the same temperature as the hottest baths found at the hot springs in Virginia. In this bath, which had been created by the Indians by blocking the flow with stones and gravel, I bathed for 19 minutes; it was hard to stay in that long, and it made me sweat a lot. There are two other nearby springs that are much hotter, so hot that they cause a person's hand to sting intensely when immersed. I believe the temperature of these springs is similar to the hottest ones in Virginia. Both the men and the Indians enjoyed the baths this evening. I noticed that after they could stand the heat for as long as possible, the Indians would run and plunge themselves into the creek, which is now as cold as ice can make it; after a few minutes, they would return to the warm bath, repeating this transition several times but always ending with the warm bath. I shot a small black pheasant near the quawmash grounds this evening, which is the first one I’ve seen below the snowy region. I also saw some young pheasants that were about the size of chickens just three days old. I saw the tracks of two Indian refugees who appeared to be distressed and were believed to have fled from the Minnetares.
[Clark, June 29, 1806]
Sunday June 29th 1806 We colected our horses and Set out haveing previously dispatched Drewyer & R. Field to the Warm Springs to hunt. we prosued the hights of the ridge on which we have been passing for several days; it termonated at the distance of 5 M. from our encampment, and we decended to & passed the main branch of Kooskooke 11/2 Ms. above the enterance of Glade Creek which falls in on the N. E. Side. we bid adew to the Snow. near the River we found a Deer which the hunters had killed and left us. this was a fortunate Supply as all our bears oil was now exhosted, and we were reduced to our roots alone without Salt. the river is 30 yds wide and runs with great velossity. the bead as all the Mountain streams is composed of Smooth Stone. beyond this river we assended a Steep Mountain about 2 Miles to it's Sumit where we found the old road which we had passed on as we went out. comeing in on our right, the road was now much plainer and much beaten. at noon we arived at the quawmash flatts on Vally Creek and halted to graize our horses and dined haveing traveled 12 Miles here is a pretty little plain of about 50 acres plentifully Stocked with quawmash and from appearance this forms one of the principal Stages of the indians who pass the mountains on this road. we found that one of our pack horss with his load and one of Capt. L.s. horses were missing we dispatched Jo. Field & Colter in serch of the lost horse's. after dinner we continued our march 7 ms further to the worm Springs where we arrived early in the evening, and Sent out Several hunters, who as well as R. Field & Drewyer returned unsuksessfull; late in the evening Jo. Field & Colter joined us with the lost horses and brought with them a Deer which J. F. had killed, this furnished us with a Supper.
Sunday, June 29th, 1806 We gathered our horses and set out, having previously sent Drewyer and R. Field to the Warm Springs to hunt. We followed the heights of the ridge we had been traveling on for several days; it ended about 5 miles from our campsite, and we descended to and crossed the main branch of Kooskooke 1.5 miles above the entrance of Glade Creek, which flows in on the northeast side. We said goodbye to the snow. Near the river, we found a deer that the hunters had killed and left for us. This was a lucky supply, as all our bear oil was now used up, and we were left with just our roots and no salt. The river is 30 yards wide and flows with great speed. The bed, like all the mountain streams, is made of smooth stones. Beyond this river, we climbed a steep mountain about 2 miles to its summit, where we found the old road we had passed on our way out. Coming in on our right, the road was now much clearer and well-traveled. At noon, we arrived at the quawmash flats on Valley Creek and stopped to graze our horses and have lunch, having traveled 12 miles. This is a lovely little plain of about 50 acres, fully stocked with quawmash, and it appears to be one of the main stops for the Indians passing through the mountains on this route. We discovered that one of our pack horses with its load and one of Captain L.'s horses were missing, so we sent Jo. Field and Colter in search of the lost horses. After lunch, we continued our march 7 miles further to the Warm Springs, where we arrived early in the evening. We sent out several hunters, who, along with R. Field and Drewyer, returned unsuccessful. Late in the evening, Jo. Field and Colter rejoined us with the lost horses and brought a deer that J. F. had killed, which provided us with dinner.
Those Worm or Hot Springs are Situated at the base of a a hill of no considerable hight, on the N. Side and near the bank of travellers rest Creek which is at that place about 10 yds wide. these Springs issue from the bottom and through the interstices of a grey freestone rock, the rock rises in irregular masy clifts in a circular range, arround the Springs on their lower Side. imediately above the Springs on the Creek there is a handsom little quawmash plain of about 10 acres. the principal Spring is about the temperature of the Warmest baths used at the Hot Springs in Virginia. in this bath which had been prepared by the Indians by stopping the river with Stone and mud, I bathed and remained in 10 minits it was with dificuelty I could remain this long and it causd a profuse swet. two other bold Springs adjacent to this are much warmer, their heat being so great as to make the hand of a person Smart extreemly when immerced. we think the temperature of those Springs about the Same as that of the hotest of the hot Springs of Virginia. both the Men and the indians amused themselves with the use of the bath this evening. I observe after the indians remaining in the hot bath as long as they could bear it run and plunge themselves into the Creek the water of which is now as Cold as ice Can make it; after remaining here a fiew minits they return again to the worm bath repeeting this transision Several times but always ending with the worm bath. Saw the tracks of 2 bearfooted indians-.
Those warm or hot springs are located at the base of a hill that isn’t very high, on the north side, near the bank of Travelers Rest Creek, which is about 10 yards wide there. The springs emerge from the bottom and through the gaps in a gray freestone rock. The rock forms irregular, massive cliffs in a circular shape around the springs on their lower side. Just above the springs, by the creek, there's a nice little quagmire plain of about 10 acres. The main spring is about the same temperature as the warmest baths at the hot springs in Virginia. In this bath, which had been made by the Indians damming the river with stones and mud, I bathed for 10 minutes; it was hard to stay in for that long, and it caused me to sweat profusely. Two other hot springs nearby are much warmer, and their heat is so intense that it makes a person’s hand sting when submerged. We believe the temperature of these springs is about the same as that of the hottest hot springs in Virginia. Both the men and the Indians enjoyed using the bath this evening. I noticed that after the Indians stayed in the hot bath as long as they could stand it, they would run and plunge themselves into the creek, which is now as cold as ice can make it; after staying there for a few minutes, they return to the warm bath, repeating this transition several times, but always finishing with the warm bath. I saw the tracks of two barefooted Indians.
[Lewis, June 30, 1806]
Monday June 30th 1806. We dispatched Drewyer and J. Fields early this morning to hunt on the road and indeavour to obtain some meat for us. just as we had prepared to set out at an early hour a deer came in to lick at these springs and one of our hunters killed it; this secured us our dinners, and we proceeded down the creek sometimes in the bottoms and at other times on the top or along the steep sides of the ridge to the N. of the Creek. at one mile from the springs we passed a stout branch of the creek on the north side and at noon having travelled 13 ms. we arrived at the entrance of a second Northen branch of the creek where we had nooned it on the 12 th of Septr. last. here we halted, dined and graized our horses. while here Sheilds took a small tern and killed a deer. at this place a road turns off to the wright which the indians informed us leads to Clarks river some distance below where there is a fine extensive vally in which the Shalees or Ootslashshoots sometimes reside. in descending the creek this morning on the steep side of a high hill my horse sliped with both his hinder feet out of the road and fell, I also fell off backwards and slid near 40 feet down the hill before I could stop myself such was the steepness of the declivity; the horse was near falling on me in the first instance but fortunately recovers and we both escaped unhirt. I saw a small grey squirrel today much like those of the Pacific coast only that the belly of this was white. I also met with the plant in blume which is sometimes called the lady's slipper or mockerson flower. it is in shape and appearance like ours only that the corolla is white, marked with small veigns of pale red longitudinally on the inner side. after dinner we resumed our march. soon after seting out Sheilds killed another deer and in the course of the evening we picked up three others which Drewyer had killed along the road making a total of 6 today. Deer are very abundant in the neighbourhood of travellers rest of both speceis, also some bighorns and Elk. a little before sunset we arrived at our old encampment on the south side of the creek a little above it's entrance into Clark's river. here we encamped with a view to remain two days in order to rest ourselves and horses & make our final arrangements for seperation. we came 19 ms. after dinner the road being much better than it has been since we entered the mountains we found no appearance of the Ootslashshoots having been here lately. the indians express much concern for them and apprehend that the Minnetares of fort de Prarie have distroyed them in the course of the last winter and spring, and mention the tracks of the bearfoot Indians which we saw yesterday as an evidence of their being much distressed.—our horses have stood the journey supprisingly well, most of them are yet in fine order, and only want a few days rest to restore them perfectly.-
Monday, June 30, 1806. We sent Drewyer and J. Fields out early this morning to hunt along the road and try to get some meat for us. Just as we were getting ready to leave at dawn, a deer came to drink at the springs, and one of our hunters shot it. This ensured us dinner, and we moved down the creek, sometimes in the low areas and other times along the top or steep sides of the ridge to the north of the creek. One mile from the springs, we crossed a strong branch of the creek on the north side, and at noon, after traveling 13 miles, we reached the entrance of a second northern branch of the creek where we had stopped for lunch on September 12th last year. Here we took a break, had lunch, and let our horses graze. While we were here, Shields caught a small tern and killed a deer. There's a road that branches off to the right, which the Indians told us leads to Clark's River, some distance down where there is a vast valley where the Shalees or Ootslashshoots sometimes live. While going down the creek this morning on the steep side of a high hill, my horse slipped with both its hind feet out of the road and fell. I also fell backward and slid nearly 40 feet down the hill before I could stop myself due to the steepness of the slope; the horse nearly fell on me at first, but fortunately, it regained its footing, and we both escaped unharmed. I saw a small gray squirrel today that looked a lot like those from the Pacific coast, except this one had a white belly. I also found a flowering plant sometimes called the lady's slipper or moccasin flower. It looks and is shaped like ours, only the corolla is white, marked with small pale red veins on the inner side. After lunch, we continued our journey. Shortly after we set out, Shields killed another deer, and during the evening, we found three more that Drewyer had killed along the way, bringing today's total to six. Deer are very plentiful near Traveler's Rest, both species, along with some bighorns and elk. A little before sunset, we reached our old campsite on the south side of the creek just above where it joins Clark's River. We set up camp with plans to stay for two days to rest ourselves and our horses and to finalize our arrangements for separation. We covered 19 miles after lunch, and the road was much better than it had been since we entered the mountains. We saw no signs of the Ootslashshoots being around lately. The Indians are very worried about them and fear that the Minnetares from Fort de Prairie destroyed them over the past winter and spring. They mentioned the tracks of the Bearfoot Indians we saw yesterday as evidence that they're in distress. Our horses have handled the journey surprisingly well; most of them are still in great condition and only need a few days of rest to completely recover.
[Clark, June 30, 1806]
Monday June 30th 1806 We dispatched Drewyer & Jo. Field early this morning ahead to hunt. just as we had prepard. to set out at an early hour, a deer Came in to lick at the Springs and one of our hunters killed it; this Secired to us our dinner. and we proceeded down the Creek, Sometimes in the bottoms and at other times on the tops or along the Steep Sides of the ridge to the N of the Creek. at 11/2 m. we passd our encampment of the 12th of Septr. last. we noon'd it at the place we had on the 12 of Septr. last whiles here Shields killed a deer on the N. fork near the road. here a rode leads up the N. fork and passed over to an extensive vally on Clarks river at Some distance down that river as our guids inform us. after dinner we resumed our march. Soon after Setting out Shields killed another deer, and we picked up 3 others which G Drewyer had killed along the road. Deer are very abundant in the neighbourhood of travellers rest of boath Specis, also Some big horn and Elk. a little before Sunset we arrived at our old encampment on the S. Side of the Creek a little above its enterance into Clarks river. here we Encamped with a view to remain 2 days in order to rest ourselves and horses and make our final arrangements for Seperation. we found no signs of the Oatlashshots haveing been here lately. the Indians express much Concern for them and apprehend that the Menetarries of Fort d Prar have destroyed them in the course of the last Winter and Spring, and mention the tracts of the bearfooted indians which we Saw yesterday as an evidence of their being much distressed-. our horses have stood the journey Supirisinly well and only want a fiew days rest to restore them.
Monday, June 30th, 1806 We sent Drewyer and Jo. Field ahead early this morning to hunt. Just as we were getting ready to leave, a deer came in to drink at the springs, and one of our hunters shot it; this secured our dinner. We continued down the creek, sometimes in the lower areas and other times on the ridges or steep sides north of the creek. After 1.5 miles, we passed our encampment from September 12th of last year. We had lunch at the same spot we stopped at on September 12th, and while we were there, Shields killed a deer on the north fork near the road. A path leads up the north fork and crosses into a large valley on Clark’s River, some distance down that river, according to our guides. After lunch, we continued our march. Soon after we set out, Shields killed another deer, and we found three more that G. Drewyer had shot along the way. Deer are very plentiful near Traveler’s Rest, including both species, plus some bighorn sheep and elk. Just before sunset, we reached our old campsite on the south side of the creek, a bit above where it flows into Clark’s River. We camped there to rest ourselves and our horses for two days and to finalize our arrangements for separation. We found no signs of the Oatlashshots having been here recently. The Indians express much concern for them and fear that the men at Fort d Prar have destroyed them over the last winter and spring. They mention the tracks of the barefooted Indians that we saw yesterday as evidence of their distress. Our horses have handled the journey surprisingly well and only need a few days' rest to recover.
[Clark, June 30, 1806]
Descended the mountain to Travellers rest leaveing those tremendious mountanes behind us-in passing of which we have experiensed Cold and hunger of which I shall ever remember. in passing over this part of the Rocky mountains from Clarks river, to the quawmash flats from the 14th to the 19th of Septr. 1805 we marched through Snow, which fell on us on the night of the 14th and nearly all the day of the 15 in addition to the cold rendered the air cool and the way difficuelt. our food was horses of which we eate three.—On our return we Set out from the quawmash flats on the 15th of June and commenes the assent of the rocky mountains; the air became cool and vigitation backward—on the 16th we met with banks of Snow and in the hollars and maney of the hill Sides the Snow was from 3 to 4 feet deep and Scercely any grass vegitation just commencing where the Snow had melted—on the 17th at meridian, the Snow became So deep in every derection from 6 to 8 feet deep we could not prosue the road there being no grass for our horses we were obliged to return to the quawmash flatts to precure meat to live on as well as grass for our horses—leaveing our baggage on the mountains We precured 5 Indians as pilots and on the 24th of June 1806 we again under took those Snowey regn. on the 26th we with our baggage arived at an open plain serounded with Snow where there was grass for horses on the 27th & 28th also passing over Snow 6 or 8 feet deep all the way on 29th passed over but little Snow—but saw great masses of it lying in different directions
We descended the mountain to Traveler's Rest, leaving those massive mountains behind us. The cold and hunger we experienced during that time will always stick with me. From the 14th to the 19th of September 1805, while crossing this part of the Rocky Mountains from Clark's River to the Quawmash Flats, we marched through snow that fell on us the night of the 14th and nearly all of the 15th. This, combined with the cold, made the air chilly and the journey difficult. Our food consisted of horses, and we ate three of them. On our return, we set out from the Quawmash Flats on June 15th and began the ascent of the Rocky Mountains. The air became cool, and vegetation was lacking. On the 16th, we encountered snowbanks, and in the hollows and many of the hillsides, the snow was three to four feet deep, with barely any grass starting to show where the snow had melted. By the 17th, at midday, the snow was six to eight feet deep in every direction, and we could not continue on the road due to the lack of grass for our horses. We had to go back to the Quawmash Flats to gather food for ourselves and grass for our horses, leaving our baggage on the mountains. We hired five Native Americans as guides, and on June 24th, 1806, we once again tackled those snowy regions. On the 26th, with our baggage, we arrived at an open plain surrounded by snow, where there was grass for the horses. On the 27th and 28th, we continued over snow that was six to eight feet deep the entire way. By the 29th, we encountered little snow but saw large piles of it lying in various directions.
[Lewis, July 1, 1806]
Tuesday July 1st 1806. This morning early we sent out all our hunters. set Sheilds at work to repair some of our guns which were out of order Capt. Clark & my self consurted the following plan viz. from this place I determined to go with a small party by the most direct rout to the falls of the Missouri, there to leave Thompson McNeal and goodrich to prepare carriages and geer for the purpose of transporting the canoes and baggage over the portage, and myself and six volunteers to ascend Maria's river with a view to explore the country and ascertain whether any branch of that river lies as far north as Latd. 50 and again return and join the party who are to decend the Missouri, at the entrance of Maria's river. I now called for the volunteers to accompany me on this rout, many turned out, from whom I scelected Drewyer the two Feildses, Werner, Frazier and Sergt Gass accompanied me the other part of the men are to proceed with Capt Clark to the head of Jefferson's river where we deposited sundry articles and left our canoes. from hence Sergt Ordway with a party of 9 men are to decend the river with the canoes; Capt C. with the remaining ten including Charbono and York will proceed to the Yellowstone river at it's nearest approach to the three forks of the missouri, here he will build a canoe and decend the Yellowstone river with Charbono the indian woman, his servant York and five others to the missouri where should he arrive first he will wait my arrival. Sergt Pryor with two other men are to proceed with the horses by land to the Mandans and thence to the British posts on the Assinniboin with a letter to Mr. Heney whom we wish to engage to prevail on the Sioux Chefs to join us on the Missouri, and accompany them with us to the seat of the general government. these arrangements being made the party were informed of our design and prepared themselves accordingly. our hunters killed 13 deer in the course of this day of which 7 were fine bucks, deer are large and in fine order. the indians inform us that there are a great number of white buffaloe or mountain sheep of the snowey hights of the mountains West of this river; they state that they inhabit the most rocky and inaccessible parts, and run but badly, that they kill them with great ease with their arrows when they can find them. the indian warrior who overtook us on the 26th Ult. made me a present of an excellent horse which he said he gave for the good council we had given himself and nation and also to assure us of his attatchment to the white men and his desire to be at peace with the Minnetares of Fort de Prarie. we had our venison fleeced and exposed in the sun on pole to dry. the dove the black woodpecker, the lark woodpecker, the logcock, the prarie lark, sandhill crain, prarie hen with the short and pointed tail, the robin, a speceis of brown plover, a few curloos, small black birds, ravens hawks and a variety of sparrows as well as the bee martin and the several speceis of Corvus genus are found in this vally.
Tuesday, July 1st, 1806. This morning, we sent out all our hunters early. We had Shields working to fix some of our guns that were broken. Captain Clark and I discussed the following plan: I decided to take a small group directly to the falls of the Missouri. There, I would leave Thompson McNeal and Goodrich to prepare vehicles and gear for transporting the canoes and luggage over the portage. I, along with six volunteers, would then head up Maria's River to explore the area and see if any branch of that river goes as far north as Latitude 50, before returning to meet the group descending the Missouri at the entrance to Maria's River. I called for volunteers to join me on this route; many stepped forward, and I selected Drewyer, the two Fields brothers, Werner, Frazier, and Sergeant Gass. The rest of the men will go with Captain Clark to the head of Jefferson's River, where we left some items and our canoes. From there, Sergeant Ordway and a party of nine men will head down the river with the canoes; Captain Clark, along with the remaining ten men, including Charbono and York, will go to the Yellowstone River at its closest point to the three forks of the Missouri. There, he will build a canoe and go down the Yellowstone with Charbono, the Indian woman, his servant York, and five others to the Missouri, where he will wait for me if he arrives first. Sergeant Pryor and two other men will take the horses overland to the Mandans and then to the British posts on the Assiniboine, carrying a letter to Mr. Heney. We hope to persuade him to convince the Sioux chiefs to join us on the Missouri and accompany us to the seat of the general government. Once these arrangements were made, the party was informed of our plans and prepared themselves accordingly. Our hunters killed 13 deer today, including 7 nice bucks; the deer are large and in excellent condition. The Indians tell us there are many white buffalo or mountain sheep in the snowy heights of the mountains west of this river. They say they live in the most rocky and hard-to-reach places and don't run well, making them easy to kill with arrows when found. The Indian warrior who caught up with us on the 26th of last month gave me a great horse, saying he did so to thank us for the good advice we provided to him and his nation, and to show his friendship to white men and his desire for peace with the Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie. We had our venison skinned and laid out in the sun on a pole to dry. In this valley, we’ve spotted doves, black woodpeckers, lark woodpeckers, logcocks, prairie larks, sandhill cranes, prairie hens with short and pointed tails, robins, a type of brown plover, a few curlews, small black birds, ravens, hawks, a variety of sparrows, as well as bee martins and several species of the Corvus genus.
Windsor birst his gun near the muzzle a few days since; this Sheilds cut off and I then exchanged it with the Cheif for the one we had given him for conducting us over the mountains. he was much pleased with the exchange and shot his gun several times; he shoots very well for an inexperienced person.
Windsor fired his gun near the muzzle a few days ago; this Shield was damaged and I then traded it with the Chief for the one we had given him for guiding us over the mountains. He was very pleased with the trade and shot his gun several times; he shoots quite well for someone with little experience.
The little animal found in the plains of the Missouri which I have called the barking squirrel weighs from 3 to 31/2 pounds. it's form is that of the squirrel. it's colour is an uniform light brick red grey, the red reather predominating. the under side of the neck and bely are lighter coloured than the other parts of the body. the legs are short, and it is wide across the breast and sholders in propotion to it's size, appears strongly formed in that part; the head is also bony muscular and stout, reather more blontly terminated wider and flatter than the common squirrel. the upper lip is split or divided to the nose. the ears are short and lie close to the head, having the appearance of being cut off, in this particular they resemble the guinea pig. the teeth are like those of the squrrel rat &c. they have a false jaw or pocket between the skin and the mustle of the jaw like that of the common ground squrrel but not so large in proportion to their size. they have large and full whiskers on each side of the nose, a few long hairs of the same kind on each jaw and over the eyes. the eye is small and black. they have five toes on each foot of which the two outer toes on each foot are much shoter than those in the center particularly the two inner toes of the fore feet, the toes of the fore feet are remarkably long and sharp and seem well adapted to cratching or burrowing those of the hind feet are neither as long or sharp as the former; the nails are black. the hair of this animal is about as long and equally as course as that of the common grey squrrel of our country, and the hair of the tail is not longer than that of the body except immediately at the extremity where it is somewhat longer and frequently of a dark brown colour. the part of generation in the female is placed on the lower region of the belly between the hinder legs so far forward that she must lie on her back to copolate. the whole length of this animal is one foot five inches from the extremity of the nose to that of the tail of which the tail occupyes 4 inches. it is nearly double the size of the whistleing squirrel of the Columbia. it is much more quick active and fleet than it's form would indicate. these squirrels burrow in the ground in the open plains usually at a considerable distance from the water yet are never seen at any distance from their burrows. six or eight usually reside in one burrow to which there is never more than one entrance. these burrows are of great debth. I once dug and pursued a burrow to the debth of ten feet and did not reach it's greatest debth. they generally associate in large societies placing their burrows near each other and frequently occupy in this manner several hundred acres of land. when at rest above ground their position is generally erect on their hinder feet and rump; thus they will generally set and bark at you as you approach them, their note being much that of the little toy dogs, their yelps are in quick succession and at each they a motion to their tails upwards. they feed on the grass and weeds within the limits of their village which they never appear to exceed on any occasion. as they are usually numerous they keep the grass and weeds within their district very closely graized and as clean as if it had been swept. the earth which they throw out of their burrows is usually formed into a conic mound around the entrance. this little animal is frequently very fat and it's flesh is not unpleasant. as soon as the hard frosts commence it shuts up it's burrow and continues within untill spring. it will eat grain or meat.
The small animal found in the Missouri plains, which I’ve named the barking squirrel, weighs between 3 and 3.5 pounds. Its shape resembles that of a squirrel. Its color is a uniform light brick red-gray, with the red being more prominent. The underside of its neck and belly is lighter than the rest of its body. Its legs are short, and it has a wide chest and shoulders in proportion to its size, giving it a strong appearance in those areas. The head is also bony, muscular, and stout, with a more blunt, wider, and flatter shape than that of a common squirrel. The upper lip is split or divided up to the nose. Its ears are short and lie flat against its head, giving the impression that they’ve been trimmed, resembling the guinea pig in this aspect. Its teeth are similar to those of a squirrel or rat, and it has a false jaw or pocket between the skin and the jaw muscle, like that of a common ground squirrel, but smaller in proportion. It has large, full whiskers on either side of the nose, with a few long hairs of the same type on each jaw and over the eyes. The eye is small and black. Each foot has five toes, with the two outer toes being much shorter than the center ones, particularly the two inner toes of the front feet. The toes on the front feet are notably long and sharp, well-suited for scratching or digging, while the hind feet have shorter and less sharp toes; the nails are black. The hair on this animal is about the same length and coarseness as that of the common gray squirrel in our country, and the tail's hair is no longer than that of the body except at the tip, where it is somewhat longer and often dark brown. In females, the reproductive organs are located on the lower belly between the hind legs, positioned so far forward that they must lie on their backs to mate. The total length of this animal is one foot five inches, from the tip of the nose to the tail, which measures 4 inches. It is nearly double the size of the whistling squirrel found in Columbia. It is also much quicker, more active, and nimble than its appearance would suggest. These squirrels burrow in the ground in open plains, usually far from water sources, yet they are never seen far from their burrows. Typically, six or eight live in one burrow, which has only one entrance. These burrows are quite deep; I once dug one that extended ten feet and still hadn't reached the deepest point. They tend to form large communities, placing their burrows close to one another, often occupying several hundred acres of land this way. When resting above ground, they usually stand upright on their hind legs and rear, setting up to bark at you as you come closer. Their barks resemble those of small toy dogs, with quick successions of yelps, accompanied by upward motions of their tails. They feed on grass and weeds within the boundaries of their territory, which they never seem to exceed. Since they are typically numerous, they keep the grass and weeds in their area grazed down to the point that it looks like it has been swept. The dirt they remove from their burrows generally forms a conical mound around the entrance. This little animal is often quite fat, and its meat is not unpleasant. As soon as heavy frosts begin, it seals its burrow and stays inside until spring. It will eat both grain and meat.
[Clark, July 1, 1806]
Tuesday July 1st 1806 on Clark's river We Sent out all the hunters very early this morning by 12 OClock they all returned haveing killd. 12 Deer Six of them large fat Bucks, this is like once more returning to the land of liveing a plenty of meat and that very good. as Capt. Lewis and Myself part at this place we make a division of our party and such baggage and provisions as is Souteable. the party who will accompany Capt L. is G. Drewyer, Sergt. Gass, Jo. & R. Fields, Frazier & Werner, and Thompson Goodrich & McNear as far as the Falls of Missouri at which place the 3 latter will remain untill I Send down the Canoes from the head of Jeffersons river. they will then join that party and after passing the portage around the falls, proceed on down to the enterance of Maria where Capt. Lewis will join them after haveing assended that river as high up as Laid. 50° North. from the head of Jeffersons river I shall proceed on to the head of the Rockejhone with a party of 9 or 10 men and desend that river. from the R Rockejhone I Shall dispatch Sergt. Pryor with the horses to the Mandans and from thence to the Tradeing Establishments of the N. W. Co on the Assinniboin River with a letter which we have written for the purpose to engage Mr. H. Haney to endeaver to get Some of the principal Chiefs of the Scioux to accompany us to the Seat of our government &. we divide the Loading and apportion the horses. Capt L. only takes 17 horses with him, 8 only of which he intends to take up the Maria &c. One of the Indians who accompaned us Swam Clarks river and examined the Country around, on his return he informed us that he had discovered where a Band of the Tushepaws had encamped this Spring passed of 64 Lodges, & that they had passed Down Clarks river and that it was probable that they were near the quawmash flatts on a Easterly branch of that river. those guides expressed a desire to return to their nation and not accompany us further, we informed them that if they was deturmined to return we would kill some meat for them, but wished that they would accompy Capt. Lewis on the rout to the falls of Missouri only 2 nights and show him the right road to cross the Mountains. this they agreed to do. we gave a medal of the Small Size to the young man Son to the late Great Chief of the Chopunnish Nation who had been remarkably kind to us in every instance, to all the others we tied a bunch of blue ribon about the hair, which pleased them very much. the Indian man who overtook us in the Mountain, presented Capt. Lewis with a horse and said that he opened his ears to what we had said, and hoped that Cap Lewis would see the Crovanters of Fort De Prarie and make a good peace that it was their desire to be at peace. Shew them the horse as a token of their wishes &c.
Tuesday, July 1st, 1806, on Clark's River. We sent out all the hunters very early this morning, and by 12 o'clock, they all returned having killed 12 deer, six of them large, fat bucks. This feels like returning to a land overflowing with plenty of good meat. As Captain Lewis and I part ways at this location, we divide our party and the suitable baggage and provisions. The group accompanying Captain L. consists of G. Drewyer, Sergeant Gass, Jo. & R. Fields, Frazier & Werner, as well as Thompson Goodrich & McNear, who will stay at the Falls of Missouri until I send down the canoes from the head of Jefferson's River. They will then join that party and, after passing the portage around the falls, continue down to the entrance of Maria, where Captain Lewis will meet them after ascending that river as far north as 50° latitude. From the head of Jefferson's River, I plan to move on to the head of the Rockejhone with a party of 9 or 10 men and descend that river. From the Rockejhone, I will send Sergeant Pryor with the horses to the Mandans and then to the trading establishments of the N.W. Company on the Assinniboin River with a letter we've written to engage Mr. H. Haney to try to convince some of the principal chiefs of the Sioux to accompany us to the seat of our government. We divide the loading and apportion the horses. Captain L. is only taking 17 horses, of which he plans to take only 8 up the Maria, etc. One of the Indians who joined us swam across Clark's River and explored the area. Upon his return, he told us he discovered where a band of the Tushepaws camped this spring, consisting of 64 lodges, and that they had traveled down Clark's River. It’s likely they are near the quawmash flats on an easterly branch of that river. These guides expressed a desire to return to their nation and not to accompany us further. We informed them that if they were determined to go back, we would kill some meat for them but hoped they would accompany Captain Lewis for just two nights to show him the right path to cross the mountains. They agreed to do so. We gave a small medal to the young man, son of the late great chief of the Chopunnish Nation, who had been particularly kind to us. To all the others, we tied a bunch of blue ribbon around their hair, which they appreciated very much. The Indian man who caught up with us in the mountains presented Captain Lewis with a horse and expressed that he listened to what we said, hoping Captain Lewis would meet the Crovanters of Fort De Prairie and establish good peace, as they desired to be at peace. He showed them the horse as a token of their wishes, etc.
[Lewis, July 2, 1806]
Wednesday July 2ed 1806. We sent out the hunters early this morning, they returned not so succesfull as yesterday having killed 2 deer only. Sheilds continued repairing the gunns which he compleated by evening. all arrangements being now compleat we determined to set out in the morning. in the course of the day we had much conversation with the indians by signs, our only mode of communicating our ideas. they informed us that they wished to go in surch of the Ootslashshoots their friends and intended leaving us tomorrow morning, I prevailed on them to go with me as far as the East branch of Clark's River and put me on the road to the Missouri. I gave the Cheif a medal of the small size; he insisted on exchanging names with me according to their custom which was accordingly done and I was called Yo-me-kol-lick which interpreted is the white bearskin foalded. in the evening the indians run their horses, and we had several foot races betwen the natives and our party with various success. these are a race of hardy strong athletic active men. nothin worthy of notice transpired in the course of the day. Goodrich and McNeal are both very unwell with the pox which they contracted last winter with the Chinnook women this forms my inducement principally for taking them to the falls of the Missouri where during an intervail of rest they can use the murcury freely. I found two speceis of native clover here, the one with a very narrow small leaf and a pale red flower, the other nearly as luxouriant as our red clover with a white flower the leaf and blume of the latter are proportionably large. I found several other uncommon plants specemines of which I preserved. The leaf of the cottonwood on this river is like that common to the Columbia narrower than that common to the lower part of the Missouri and Mississippi and wider than that on the upper part of the Missouri. the wild rose, servise berry, white berryed honeysuckle, seven bark, elder, alder aspin, choke cherry and the broad and narrow leafed willow are natives of this valley. the long leafed pine forms the principal timber of the neighbourhood, and grows as well in the river bottoms as on the hills. the firs and larch are confined to the higher parts of the hills and mountains. the tops of the high mountains on either side of this river are covered with snow. the musquetoes have been excessively troublesome to us since our arrival at this place.
Wednesday, July 2, 1806. We sent out the hunters early this morning; they returned less successful than yesterday, having only killed 2 deer. Shields continued repairing the guns, which he completed by evening. With all arrangements now finalized, we decided to set out in the morning. Throughout the day, we had many conversations with the Indians using signs, which was our only way of communicating our ideas. They informed us that they wanted to go in search of the Ootslashshoots, their friends, and planned to leave us tomorrow morning. I persuaded them to travel with me as far as the East branch of Clark's River and help me find the road to the Missouri. I gave the chief a small medal; he insisted on exchanging names with me according to their customs, which we did, and I was called Yo-me-kol-lick, which means “the white bearskin folded.” In the evening, the Indians ran their horses, and we had several foot races between the natives and our party, with varying results. They are a race of hardy, strong, athletic, active men. Nothing noteworthy happened throughout the day. Goodrich and McNeal are both very unwell with the pox, which they contracted last winter with the Chinook women. This is my main reason for taking them to the falls of the Missouri, where they can have some rest and use mercury freely. I found two species of native clover here: one with very narrow small leaves and a pale red flower, and the other nearly as lush as our red clover, but with white flowers; the leaves and blooms of the latter are relatively large. I found several other uncommon plants, specimens of which I preserved. The leaves of the cottonwood along this river are similar to those of the Columbia, narrower than those common to the lower part of the Missouri and the Mississippi, but wider than those on the upper part of the Missouri. The wild rose, serviceberry, white-berried honeysuckle, seven bark, elder, alder, aspen, choke cherry, and broad and narrow-leafed willow are native to this valley. The long-leafed pine is the primary timber in the area and grows well in both the river bottoms and on the hills. The firs and larch are limited to the higher parts of the hills and mountains. The tops of the high mountains on either side of this river are covered with snow. The mosquitoes have been extremely bothersome to us since our arrival here.
[Clark, July 2, 1806]
Wednesday July 2nd 1806 Sent out 2 hunters this morning and they killed 2 Deer. the Musquetors has been So troublesom day and night Since our arrival in this Vally that we are tormented very much by them and Cant write except under our Bears. We gave the Second gun to our guides agreeable to our promis, and to each we gave Powder & ball I had the greater part of the meat dried for to Subsist my party in the Mountains between the head of Jeffersons & Clarks rivers where I do not expect to find any game to kill. had all of our arms put in the most prime order two of the rifles have unfortunately bursted near the muscle, Shields Cut them off and they Shute tolerable well one which is very Short we exchanged with the Indian whoe we had given a longer gun to induc them to pilot us across the Mountains. we caused every man to fill his horn with powder & have a sufficincy of Balls &c. the last day in passing down Travellers rest Creek Capt Lewis fell down the Side of a Steep Mountain near 40 feet but fortunately receved no dammage. his hors was near falling on him but fortunately recovered and they both escaped unhurt. I killed a Small grey squurel and a Common pheasant. Capt L. Showed me a plant in blume which is Sometimes called the ladies Slipper or Mockerson flower. it is in shape and appearance like ours only that the corolla is white marked with Small veigns of pale red longitudinally on the inner Side, and much Smaller. The Indians and Some of our men amused themselves in running races on foot as well as with their horses.
Wednesday, July 2nd, 1806 We sent out two hunters this morning, and they killed two deer. The mosquitoes have been so bothersome day and night since our arrival in this valley that we can barely write except while under our bears. We gave the second gun to our guides as promised, and to each, we gave powder and bullets. I had most of the meat dried to sustain my party in the mountains between the heads of Jefferson and Clark's rivers, where I don't expect to find any game to hunt. We made sure all of our weapons were in top condition; unfortunately, two of the rifles burst near the muzzle. Shields cut them off, and they shoot reasonably well. One, which is very short, we traded with the Indian to whom we had given a longer gun to persuade him to guide us across the mountains. We instructed every man to fill his horn with powder and to have enough bullets, etc. On the last day, while passing down Traveler's Rest Creek, Captain Lewis fell down the side of a steep mountain, nearly 40 feet, but fortunately received no damage. His horse almost fell on him but managed to recover, and they both escaped unharmed. I killed a small gray squirrel and a common pheasant. Captain Lewis showed me a flowering plant that is sometimes called the lady's slipper or mockerson flower. It looks similar to ours, except that the petals are white with small veins of pale red running lengthwise on the inner side, and it's much smaller. The Indians and some of our men entertained themselves by running races on foot as well as with their horses.
[Lewis, July 3, 1806]
Thursday July 3rd 1806. All arrangements being now compleated for carrying into effect the several scheemes we had planed for execution on our return, we saddled our horses and set out I took leave of my worthy friend and companion Capt. Clark and the party that accompanyed him. I could not avoid feeling much concern on this occasion although I hoped this seperation was only momentary. I proceeded down Clark's river seven miles with my party of nine men and five indians. here the Indians recommended our passing the river which was rapid and 150 yds. wide. 2 miles above this place I passed the entrance of the East branch of Clark's River which discharges itself by two channels; the water of this river is more terbid than the main stream and is from 90 to 120 yds. wide. as we had no other means of passing the river we busied ourselves collecting dry timber for the purpose of constructing rafts; timber being scarce we found considerable difficulty in procuring as much as made three small rafts. we arrived at 11 A.M. and had our rafts completed by 3 P.M. when we dined and began to take over our baggage which we effected in the course of 3 hours the rafts being obliged to return several times. the Indians swam over their horses and drew over their baggage in little basons of deer skins which they constructed in a very few minutes for that purpose. we drove our horses in after them and they followed to the opposite shore. I remained myself with two men who could scarcely swim untill the last; by this time the raft by passing so frequently had fallen a considerable distance down the river to a rapid and difficult part of it crouded with several small Islands and willow bars which were now overflown; with these men I set out on the raft and was soon hurried down with the current a mile and a half before we made shore, on our approach to the shore the raft sunk and I was drawn off the raft by a bush and swam on shore the two men remained on the raft and fortunately effected a landing at some little distance below. I wet the chronometer by this accedent which I had placed in my fob as I conceived for greater security. I now joined the party and we proceeded with the indians about 3 Ms. to a small Creek and encamped at sunset. I sent out the hunters who soon returned with three very fine deer of which I gave the indians half These people now informed me that the road which they shewed me at no great distance from our Camp would lead us up the East branch of Clark's river and a river they called Cokahlarishkit or the river of the road to buffaloe and thence to medicine river and the falls of the Missouri where we wished to go. they alledged that as the road was a well beaten track we could not now miss our way and as they were affraid of meeting with their enimies the Minnetares they could not think of continuing with us any longer, that they wished now to proceed down Clark's river in surch of their friends the Shalees. they informed us that not far from the dividing ridge between the waters of this and the Missouri rivers the roads forked they recommended the left hand as the best rout but said they would both lead us to the falls of the Missouri. I directed the hunters to turn out early in the morning and indeavour to kill some more meat for these people whom I was unwilling to leave without giving them a good supply of provision after their having been so obliging as to conduct us through those tremendious mountains. the musquetoes were so excessively troublesome this evening that we were obliged to kindle large fires for our horses these insects tortured them in such manner untill they placed themselves in the smoke of the fires that I realy thought they would become frantic. about an hour after dark the air become so coald that the musquetoes disappeared.
Thursday, July 3rd, 1806. Now that all the arrangements were complete for carrying out the various plans we had set for our return, we saddled our horses and set out. I said goodbye to my good friend and companion, Capt. Clark, and the group that traveled with him. I couldn't help but feel anxious about this moment, even though I hoped this separation would only be temporary. I traveled down Clark's River for seven miles with my party of nine men and five Indians. Here, the Indians suggested that we cross the river, which was fast-flowing and 150 yards wide. Two miles upstream, I passed the entrance of the East branch of Clark's River, which splits into two channels; the water in this river is muddier than the main stream and is 90 to 120 yards wide. Since we had no other way to cross, we spent our time gathering dry timber to build rafts; as timber was scarce, we had quite a bit of trouble getting enough to make three small rafts. We arrived at 11 A.M. and finished our rafts by 3 P.M. After dining, we began moving our baggage, which took us three hours as the rafts had to go back and forth several times. The Indians swam their horses across and transported their baggage in small basins made from deer skins that they put together in just a few minutes. We drove our horses in after them, and they followed to the other side. I stayed behind with two men who could barely swim until the end; by now, the rafts had drifted a considerable distance downstream to a rapid and tricky section crowded with small islands and willow bars that were currently submerged. With these men, I set off on the raft and was quickly swept downriver a mile and a half before we reached the shore. As we approached the bank, the raft sank, and I was pulled off by a bush and swam ashore, while the two men remained on the raft and fortunately managed to land a little downstream. My chronometer got wet in this accident, which I had placed in my pocket for security. I rejoined the group and we traveled with the Indians about three miles to a small creek and camped there at sunset. I sent out the hunters, who soon returned with three very nice deer, half of which I gave to the Indians. These folks now told me that the path they pointed out not far from our camp would lead us up the East branch of Clark's River and a river they called Cokahlarishkit, or the river of the road to buffalo, and then on to Medicine River and the Falls of the Missouri, where we wanted to go. They claimed that since the road was well worn, we couldn’t miss it, and as they were afraid of running into their enemies, the Minnetares, they didn’t want to stay with us any longer. They wished to head down Clark's River in search of their friends, the Shalees. They informed us that not far from the dividing ridge between the waters of this and the Missouri rivers, the roads forked. They suggested the left-hand route as the best, but said both would lead us to the Falls of the Missouri. I directed the hunters to head out early in the morning and try to get some more meat for these people, whom I was reluctant to leave without a good supply of provisions after they had been so helpful in guiding us through those treacherous mountains. The mosquitoes were so incredibly bothersome that evening that we had to build big fires for our horses; these insects bothered them so much that they only found relief by standing in the smoke of the fires, and I really thought they might go mad. About an hour after dark, the air became so cold that the mosquitoes disappeared.
We saw the fresh track of a horse this evening in the road near our camp which the indians supposed to be a Shale spye. we killed a prarie hen with the short and pointed tail she had a number of young which could just fly.
We saw fresh horse tracks on the road near our camp this evening, which the Indians thought belonged to a Shale spy. We shot a prairie hen with a short, pointed tail; she had a number of young ones that could just barely fly.
[Lewis, July 4, 1806]
July 4th 1806. An Indian arrived alone from the West side of the mountains. he had pursued and overtook us here. sent out the hunters early to kill some meat to give the indians as they would not go with us further and I was unwilling after they service they had rendered to send them away without a good store of provision. they are going down Clark's River in surch of the Shalees their friends, and from thence intend returning by this rout home again, they fleesed their meat informed us that they should dry it and leave it for their homeward journey.—Set out at 12. had killed no deer.
July 4th, 1806. An Indian arrived alone from the west side of the mountains. He had tracked us down here. I sent the hunters out early to get some meat to give to the Indians, as they wouldn’t travel with us any further, and I didn’t want to send them away without a good supply of provisions after the help they had given us. They were heading down Clark's River in search of the Shalees, their friends, and from there they planned to return home by this route. They took their meat and let us know they would dry it and save it for their journey home. We set out at noon, but we hadn’t killed any deer.
[Lewis, July 4, 1806]
Friday July 4th 1806. I arrose early this morning and sent out Drewyer and the Fieldses to hunt. at 6. A.M. a man of the Pallote pellows arrived from the West side of the Rocky mountains; he had pursued us a few days after our departure and overtook us at this place; he proved to be the same young man who had first attempted to pass the rocky mountains early in June last when we lay on the Kooskooske and was obliged to relinquish the enterprize in consequence of the debth and softness of the snow. I gave a shirt a handkercheif and a small quantity of ammunition to the indians. at half after eleven the hunters returned from the chase unsuccessfull. I now ordered the horses saddled smoked a pipe with these friendly people and at noon bid them adieu. they had cut the meat which I gave them last evening thin and exposed it in the sun to dry informing me that they should leave it in this neighbourhood untill they returned as a store for their homeward journey. it is worthy of remark that these people were about to return by the same pass by which they had conducted us through the difficult part of the Rocky Mountains, altho they were about to decend Clark's river several days journey in surch of the Shale's their relations, a circumstance which to my mind furnishes sufficient evidence that there is not so near or so good a rout to the plains of Columbia by land along that river as that which we came. the several war routs of the Minetarees which fall into this vally of Clark's river concenter at traveller's rest beyond which point they have never yet dared to venture in pursuit of the nations beyond the mountains. all the nations also on the west side of the mountain with whom we are acquainted inhabiting the waters of Lewis's river & who visit the plains of the Missouri pass by this rout. these affectionate people our guides betrayed every emmotion of unfeigned regret at seperating from us; they said that they were confidint that the Pahkees, (the appellation they give the Minnetares) would cut us off. the first 5 miles of our rout was through a part of the extensive plain in which we were encamped, we then entered the mountains with the East fork of Clark's river through a narrow confined pass on it's N. side continuing up that river five ms. further to the entrance of the Cokahlahishkit R which falls in on the N. E. side, is 60 yds. wide deep and rapid. the banks bold not very high but never overflow. the East fork below its junction with this stream is 100 yds. wide and above it about 90. the water of boath are terbid but the East branch much the most so; their beds are composed of sand and gravel; the East fork possesses a large portion of the former. neither of those streams are navigable in consequence of the rapids and shoals which obstruct their currents. thus far a plain or untimbered country bordered the river which near the junction of these streams spread into a handsome level plain of no great extent; the hills were covered with long leafed pine and fir. I now continued my rout up the N. side of the Cokahlahishkit river through a timbered country for 8 miles and encamped in a handsom bottom on the river where there was an abundance of excelence grass for our horses. the evening was fine, air pleasent and no musquetoes. a few miles before we encamped I killed a squirrel of the speceis common to the Rocky Mountains and a ground squirrel of a speceis which I had never before seen, I preserved the skins of both of these animals.
Friday, July 4th, 1806. I woke up early this morning and sent Drewyer and the Fieldses out to hunt. At 6 A.M., a man from the Pallote tribe arrived from the west side of the Rocky Mountains; he had pursued us a few days after we left and caught up with us here. He turned out to be the same young man who had first tried to cross the Rocky Mountains in early June when we were at Kooskooske, but he had to give up the attempt because of the depth and softness of the snow. I gave a shirt, a handkerchief, and a small amount of ammunition to the Indians. At 11:30, the hunters returned from their chase unsuccessful. I then ordered the horses to be saddled, smoked a pipe with these friendly people, and at noon said goodbye to them. They had cut the meat I gave them last night into thin strips and laid it out in the sun to dry, telling me they would leave it here until they returned as a supply for their journey home. It's worth noting that these people were planning to return by the same route they used to guide us through the tough parts of the Rocky Mountains, even though they intended to descend Clark's River several days’ journey in search of the Shales, their relatives, which suggests to me that there isn’t a better or closer route to the plains of Columbia by land along that river than the one we took. The various war routes of the Minetarees that come into this valley of Clark's River converge at Traveler's Rest, beyond which they have never dared to go in search of the nations beyond the mountains. All the nations on the west side of the mountains whom we know, living along Lewis's River and who visit the plains of Missouri, use this route. These kind people, our guides, showed every sign of sincere sadness at parting from us; they expressed confidence that the Pahkees, (what they call the Minnetares) would cut us off. The first five miles of our route was through a part of the extensive plain where we were camped, then we entered the mountains along the East Fork of Clark's River through a narrow, confined pass on its north side, continuing up that river for another five miles to the entrance of the Cokahlahishkit River, which flows in on the northeast side, is 60 yards wide, deep, and fast. The banks are steep but not very high and never overflow. The East Fork, below its confluence with this stream, is 100 yards wide, and above it about 90. The waters of both are muddy, but the East branch is much murkier; their beds are made of sand and gravel, with the East Fork having a large amount of sand. Neither of these streams is navigable due to the rapids and shoals that obstruct their flow. So far, a plain or treeless area bordered the river which, near the junction of these streams, opened into a nice level plain of modest size; the hills were covered with longleaf pine and fir. I continued my route along the north side of the Cokahlahishkit River through a forested area for eight miles and set up camp in a nice bottomland by the river with plenty of excellent grass for our horses. The evening was lovely, the air pleasant, and there were no mosquitoes. A few miles before we set up camp, I shot a squirrel of the species common to the Rocky Mountains and a ground squirrel of a type I had never seen before; I preserved the skins of both animals.
[Lewis, July 5, 1806]
July 5th 1806. Set out at 6 A.M.—steered N. 75 E. 61/2 M. passed a stout C. N Side at 21/2 M. another just above saw an old indian encampment of 11 lodges of bark and leather on S. side at 31/2 M. killed a deer.
July 5th, 1806. Left at 6 A.M.—headed N. 75 E. for 6 1/2 miles. Passed a strong current on the north side at 2 1/2 miles, then another one just above. Saw an old Indian camp with 11 lodges made of bark and leather on the south side at 3 1/2 miles. I killed a deer.
N. 25 E. 12 m. passing a small creek at one m. on S side on which there is a handsom and extensive Valley and plain for 10 or 12 ms. also another creek 12 yd. wide at 1/2 a mile further on N. sides and another 8 yds. wide on N. side at 5 ms further one & 1/2 m. short of the extremity of this course arrive at a high prarie on N. side from one to three miles in width extending up the river. halted and dined in the mouth of a little drane on the left of the plain where there was a considerable quantity of quawmash. saw a gang of antelopes here of which we killed one the does at this season herd with each other and have their young. the bucks are alone there are many wild horses on Clarkes river about the place we passed it we saw some of them at a distance. there are said to be many of them about the head of the yellowstone river.
N. 25 E. 12 m. passing a small creek at one mile on the south side, where there's a beautiful and extensive valley and plain for 10 or 12 miles. Also, another creek 12 yards wide half a mile further on the north side, and another 8 yards wide on the north side at 5 and a half miles further on, just short of the end of this route, we arrive at a high prairie on the north side, one to three miles wide, extending up the river. We stopped and had lunch at the mouth of a small drainage on the left of the plain, where there was a good amount of quawmash. We spotted a group of antelopes here, and we killed one. The does tend to herd together during this season and have their young, while the bucks are alone. There are many wild horses along Clark's River near the area we passed; we saw some of them in the distance. It's said there are many of them around the head of the Yellowstone River.
East 6 m. to the entrance of Werner's Creek 35 yds. wide through a high extensive prairie on N. side. hills low and timbered with the long leafed pine, larch, and some fir. the road passes at some distance to the left of the river and this couses is with the river.
East 6 miles to the entrance of Werner's Creek, which is 35 yards wide, through a large, high prairie on the north side. The hills are low and covered with long-leaf pine, larch, and some fir trees. The road runs a bit to the left of the river, following its course.
N. 22 W. 4 miles to a high insulated knob just above the entrance of a Creek 8 yards wide which discharges itself into Werners Creek.
N. 22 W. 4 miles to a high, isolated hill just above the entrance of a creek that is 8 yards wide, which flows into Werners Creek.
N. 75 E. 21/2 M. to the river passing through an extensive and handsom plain on Werner's Creek, crossing that creek at 1 m. and leaving a high prarie hill to the right seperating the plain from the river. saw two swan in this beautiful Creek.
N. 75 E. 2.5 M. to the river, passing through a wide and lovely plain on Werner's Creek, crossing that creek at 1 m. and leaving a tall prairie hill to the right that separates the plain from the river. I saw two swans in this beautiful creek.
East 3 m. to the entrance of a large creek 20 yds. wide Called
East 3 miles to the entrance of a large creek that is 20 yards wide, called
31 m. Seamans Creek passing a creek at 1 m. 8 yds. wide. this course with the river, the road passing through an extensive high prarie rendered very uneven by a vast number of little hillucks and sinkholes at the heads of these two creeks high broken mountains stand at the distance of 10 m. forming a kind of Cove generally of open untimbered country.—we encamped on the lower side of the last creek just above it's entrance. here a war party had encamped about 2 months since and conceald their fires.-
31 m. Seamans Creek passing a creek that is 1 m. 8 yds. wide. This course runs with the river, the road going through a large high prairie that is very uneven due to many small hills and sinkholes at the heads of these two creeks. Tall, rocky mountains rise 10 m. away, creating a sort of cove, typically consisting of open, treeless land. We set up camp on the lower side of the last creek, just above its entrance. Here, a war party had camped about 2 months ago and concealed their fires.
[Lewis, July 6, 1806]
July 6th 1806. Set out a little after sunrise passed the creek a little above our encampment.
July 6th, 1806. We left shortly after sunrise and crossed the creek just above our campsite.
East 14 M. to the point at which the river leaves the extensive plains and enters the mountains these plains I called the prarie of the knobs from a number of knobs being irregularly scattered through it. passed the N. fork 1 of the Cokahlarishkit Rivers at 7 M. it is 45 yds. wide deep and rapid. had some difficulty in passing it. passed a large crooked pond at 4 ms. further. great Number of the burrowing squirrls in this prarie of the speceis common to the plains of Columbia. saw some goats and deer. the hunters killed one of the latter. the trail which we take to be a returning war-party of the Minnetares of Fort de prarie becomes much fresher. they have a large pasel of horses. saw some Curloos, bee martains woodpeckers plover robins, doves, ravens, hawks and a variety of sparrows common to the plains also some ducks. the North fork is terbid as is also the main branch which is about 50 yds. wide the other streams are clear. these plains continue their course S 75 E. and are wide where the river leaves them. up this valley and creek a road passes to Dearbourn's river and thence to the Missouri.
East 14 miles to the point where the river leaves the wide plains and enters the mountains. I called these plains the prairie of the knobs because of the numerous knobs scattered throughout. We crossed the north fork of the Cokahlarishkit Rivers at 7 miles; it is 45 yards wide, deep, and fast-flowing. We had some trouble getting across it. We passed a large crooked pond 4 miles further. There are many burrowing squirrels in this prairie, the kind typical of the Columbia plains. We spotted some goats and deer; the hunters managed to kill one of the deer. The trail we think belongs to a returning war party of the Minnetares of Fort de Prairie is getting much fresher. They have a large pack of horses. We saw some curlews, bee martins, woodpeckers, plovers, robins, doves, ravens, hawks, and a variety of sparrows common to the plains, along with some ducks. The north fork is murky, as is the main branch, which is about 50 yards wide; the other streams are clear. These plains continue in a southeast direction (S 75 E) and are wide where the river exits them. A road leads up this valley and creek to Dearbourn's River and then to the Missouri.
N. 60 E 11/2 up the river. here we halted and dine and our hunters overtook us with a deer which they had killed. river bottoms narrow and country thickly timbered. Cottonwood and pine grow intermixed in the river bottoms musquitoes extreemely troublesome. we expect to meet with the Minnetares and are therefore much on our guard both day and night. the bois rague in blume.—saw the common small blue flag and peppergrass. the southern wood and two other speceis of shrub are common in the prarie of knobs. preserved specemines of them. passed several old indian encampments of brush lodges.-
N. 60 E 1.5 up the river. We stopped here to have lunch, and our hunters caught up with us with a deer they had killed. The riverbanks are narrow, and the area is densely wooded. Cottonwood and pine grow mixed together along the riverbanks, and mosquitoes are extremely bothersome. We expect to encounter the Minnetarees, so we are staying alert both day and night. The bois rague is in bloom. We saw the common small blue flag and peppergrass. The southern wood and two other species of shrubs are common in the prairie of knobs. I preserved specimens of them. We passed several old Indian encampments made of brush lodges.
S 80 E 2 m. to two nearly equal forks of the river here the road forks also one leading up each branch these are the forks of which I presume the indians made mention. passed a creek on N. side 12 yds. wide shallow and clear.
S 80 E 2 m. to two nearly equal forks of the river where the road splits as well, with one leading up each branch. These are the forks that I believe the Indians mentioned. We passed a creek on the north side, 12 yards wide, shallow, and clear.
N 75 E. 8 m. to our encampment of this evening over a steep high
N 75 E. 8 m. to our campsite for the night, over a steep hill.
Ms. 25 balld toped hill for 2 m. thence through and to the left of a large low bottom 2 M. thence three miles through a thick wood along the hill side bottoms narrow. thence 1 m. to our encampment on a large creek some little distance above it's mouth through a beatifull plain on the border of which we passed the remains of 32 old lodges. they appear to be those of the Minnetares as are all those we have seen today. killed five deer and a beaver today. encamped on the creek much sign of beaver in this extensive bottom.
Ms. 25 topped the hill for 2 miles. Then we went through and to the left of a large low area for 2 miles, and after that, we traveled three miles through a thick forest along the hillside where the bottoms narrow. Afterward, we went 1 mile to our campsite beside a large creek a little ways above its mouth, crossing a beautiful plain where we saw the remains of 32 old lodges. They seem to belong to the Minnetarees, just like all the others we've encountered today. We killed five deer and a beaver today. We set up camp by the creek, where there are many signs of beaver in this extensive area.
[Lewis, July 7, 1806]
July 7 1806. Set out at 7 A.M. N. 75 E. 6 M. with the road through a level beatifull plain on the North side of the river much timber in the bottoms hills also timbered with pitch pine. no longleafed pine since we left the praries of the knobs. crossed a branch of the creek 8 yds. wid. on which we encamped at 1/4 m. also passed a creek 15 yd. wide at 1/4 further. North 6 ms.—passed the main creek at a mile 1/2 and kept up it on the wright hand side through handsom plain bottoms to the foot of a ridge which we ascended the main stream boar N W & W. as far as I could see it a wright hand fork falls into this creek at 1 M. above the commencement of this course.
July 7, 1806. Started out at 7 A.M., heading N. 75 E. for 6 miles, traveling through a beautiful, level plain on the north side of the river, with plenty of timber in the low areas and hills also covered with pitch pine. No longleaf pine since we left the prairies of the knobs. Crossed a branch of the creek that was 8 yards wide, where we set up camp at a quarter mile in. We also passed a creek that was 15 yards wide another quarter mile further. After going north for 6 miles, we reached the main creek at a mile and a half and followed it on the right-hand side through attractive, flat bottoms to the base of a ridge, which we climbed. The main stream continued northwest and west as far as I could see, and a right-hand fork flows into this creek 1 mile above the start of this route.
N. 15 E. 8 m. over two ridges and again striking the wrighthand fork at 4 ms. then continued up it on the left hand side much appearance of beaver many dams. bottoms not wide and covered with low willow and grass. halted to dine at a large beaver dam the hunters killed 3 deer and a fawn. deer are remarkably plenty and in good order. Reubin Fields wounded a moos deer this morning near our camp. my dog much worried.
N. 15 E. 8 m. over two ridges and then hitting the right fork at 4 ms. We continued up it on the left side, seeing a lot of beaver and many dams. The bottom lands weren't wide and were covered with low willows and grass. We stopped to eat at a big beaver dam, and the hunters took down 3 deer and a fawn. Deer are remarkably abundant and in great shape. Reubin Fields shot a moose this morning near our camp. My dog was really anxious.
N. 10 E. 3 m. up the same creek on the east side through a handsome narrow plain.
N. 10 E. 3 m. up the same creek on the east side through a beautiful narrow plain.
N 45 E. 2 m. passing the dividing ridge betwen the waters of the Columbia and Missouri rivers at 1/4 of a mile from this gap which is low and an easy ascent on the W. side the fort mountain bears North Eaast, and appears to be distant about 20 Miles. the road for one and 3/4 miles desends the hill and continues down a branch.
N 45 E. 2 m. passing the dividing ridge between the waters of the Columbia and Missouri rivers at 1/4 of a mile from this gap, which is low and has an easy ascent on the W. side. The fort mountain is to the North East and seems to be about 20 miles away. The road descends the hill for 1 and 3/4 miles and continues down a branch.
N. 20 W. 7 ms. over several hills and hollows along the foot of the mountain hights passing five small rivulets running to the wright. saw some sighn of buffaloe early this morning in the valley where we encamped last evening from which it appears that the buffaloe do sometimes penetrate these mountains a few miles. we saw no buffaloe this evening. but much old appearance of dung, tracks &c. encamped on a small run under the foot of the mountain. after we encamped Drewyer killed two beaver and shot third which bit his knee very badly and escaped
N. 20 W. 7 miles over several hills and valleys along the base of the mountain, passing five small streams running to the right. We saw some signs of buffalo early this morning in the valley where we camped last night, which suggests that buffalo sometimes move a few miles into these mountains. We didn't see any buffalo this evening, but there were plenty of old droppings, tracks, etc. We camped by a small creek at the foot of the mountain. After we set up camp, Drewyer killed two beavers and shot a third one, which bit his knee very badly before escaping.
[Lewis, July 8, 1806]
July 8th 1806. Set out at 6 A.M.
July 8, 1806. Left at 6 A.M.
N 25 W. 31/2 m. to the top of a hill from whence we saw the Shishequaw mountain about 8 M. distant, immediately before us. passed Dearborne's river at 3 m. this stream comes form the S. W. out of the mountains which are about 5 Ms. to our left. the bed of the river is about 100 yds. wide tho the water occupys only about 30 yds. it appears to spread over it's bottoms at certain seasons of the year and runs a mear torrant tearing up the trees by the roots which stand in it's bottom the Shishiquaw mountain is a high insulated conic mountain standing several miles in advance of the Eastern range of the rocky mountains. Country broken and mountanous to our wright.
N 25 W. 3.5 miles to the top of a hill where we saw the Shishequaw mountain about 8 miles away, right in front of us. We passed Dearborne's river at 3 miles; this stream comes from the southwest out of the mountains which are about 5 miles to our left. The riverbed is about 100 yards wide, though the water only fills about 30 yards of it. It seems to spread across its banks during certain times of the year and flows like a torrent, uprooting the trees that stand in its path. The Shishequaw mountain is a tall, isolated conical mountain several miles ahead of the eastern range of the Rocky Mountains. The land to our right is rough and mountainous.
North—141/2 ms. through an open plain to Shishequaw Creek 20 yds. wide bottoms and considerable gantity of timber it leaves the mountain to the S E and enters the mountains. we struck it about 10 miles below the mountain which boar S. 32 W. from us. the road continued along the foot of the mountain to the West of north which not being anything like our course and the country becoming tolerably level at the commencement of this course we steered through the plains leaving the road with a view to strike Medicine river and hunt down it to it's mouth in order to procure the necessary skins to make geer, and meat for the three men whom we mean to leave at the falls as none of them are hunters. we halted and dined on Shishequaw Creek R. Fields killed a fine buck and a goat; Josh. Fields saw two buffaloe below us some distance which are the first that have been seen. we saw a great number of deer goats and wolves as we passed through the plains this morning but no Elk or buffaloe. saw some barking squirrils much rejoiced at finding ourselves in the plains of the Missouri which abound with game.
North—141/2 miles through an open plain to Shishequaw Creek, which is 20 yards wide, with a considerable amount of timber. It leaves the mountain to the southeast and enters the mountains. We reached it about 10 miles below the mountain that was positioned S. 32 W. from us. The road continued along the foot of the mountain to the west of north, which was not really aligned with our course. As the terrain became fairly level at the start of this route, we set off across the plains, leaving the road to aim for Medicine River and follow it down to its mouth to gather the skins we needed for gear and meat for the three men we planned to leave at the falls, as none of them are hunters. We stopped for lunch on Shishequaw Creek. R. Fields shot a nice buck and a goat; Josh. Fields spotted two buffalo a distance below us, which were the first we had seen. We encountered a lot of deer, goats, and wolves as we crossed the plains this morning, but no elk or buffalo. We also saw some barking squirrels and felt thrilled to find ourselves in the plains of Missouri, which are filled with game.
N. 50 E 2 m. to the discharge of Shishequaw Creek into the Medicine Rivers through an extensive beautiful) and level bottom.
N. 50 E 2 m. to where Shishequaw Creek flows into the Medicine Rivers through a wide, beautiful, and flat area.
N. 85° E. 8 m. to our encampment of this evening on a large island the bottoms continue level low and extensive plains level and not very elivated partcularly on the N. E. side of the river. the land of neither the plains nor bottoms is fertile. it is of a light colour intermixed with a considerable proportion of gravel the grass generally about 9 inghes high. the hunters were unsuccessful this evening. I killed a very large and the whitest woolf I have seen-
N. 85° E. 8 m. to our campsite this evening on a large island. The floodplains remain flat, low, and wide, especially on the NE side of the river. Neither the plains nor the floodplains are fertile. The soil is light-colored, mixed with a significant amount of gravel, and the grass is typically about 9 inches high. The hunters were unsuccessful this evening. I killed a very large and the whitest wolf I have ever seen.
[Lewis, July 9, 1806]
July 9th 1806. Set out early and had not proceeded far before it began to rain. the air extreemly cold. halted a few minutes in some old lodges until it cased to rain in some measure. we then proceeded and it rained without intermission wet us to the skin.
July 9th, 1806. We set out early and hadn't traveled far before it started to rain. The air was extremely cold. We stopped for a few minutes in some old lodges until it let up a bit. Then we continued on, and it rained nonstop, soaking us to the skin.
N. 80° E. 4 ms. through a handsome level wide bottom in which there is a considerable quanty of narrow leafed cottonwood timber. the river is generally about 80 yds. wide rapid yet I think it migt be navigated. it's bed is loose gravel and pebbles. the banks low but seldom overflow. water clear.
N. 80° E. 4 miles through a nice, wide, flat area where there’s a decent amount of narrow-leafed cottonwood trees. The river is usually about 80 yards wide and runs quickly, but I think it could be navigated. Its bed consists of loose gravel and pebbles. The banks are low but rarely overflow. The water is clear.
S 85 E 4 ms Still on the S W. side of the river through wide and level bottoms some timber. Joseph feilds killed a very fat buffaloe bull and we halted to dine. we took the best of the meat as much as we could possibly carry on our horses. the day continuing rainy and cold I concluded to remain all day. we feasted on the buffaloe. saw a number of deer wolves and Antelopes. killed two deer.
S 85 E 4 ms Still on the southwest side of the river through wide, flat areas with some trees. Joseph Fields killed a very fat buffalo bull, and we stopped to have lunch. We took as much of the meat as we could possibly carry on our horses. Since the day was still rainy and cold, I decided to stay all day. We enjoyed the buffalo. We saw several deer, wolves, and antelopes, and we killed two deer.
[Lewis, July 10, 1806]
July 10th 1806. Set out early and continued down the S W bank of the river N 75 E 24 m. to our encampment in a grove of cottonwood timber. the latter part of this course for 7 miles there is no timber in the river bottom, the other parts of the river possesses bottoms of the wide leafed cottonwood. much the greater part of the bottom is untimbered. the bottoms are wide and level the high praries or plains are also beautiful level and smooth. great quantities of prickly pear of two kinds on the plains. the ground is renderd so miry by the rain which fell yesterday that it is excessively fatiegueing to the horses to travel. we came 10 miles and halted for dinner the wind blowing down the river in the fore part of the day was unfavourable to the hunters they saw several gangs of Elk but they having the wind of them ran off. in the evening the wind set from the West and we fell in with a few elk of which R. Fields and myself killed 3 one of which swam the river and fell on the opposite so we therefore lost it's skin I sent the packhorses on with Sergt. Gass directing them to halt and encamp at the first timber which proved to be about 7 ms. I retained frazier to assist in skining the Elk. we wer about this time joined by drewer. a large brown bear swam the river near where we were and drewyer shot and killed it. by the time we butchered thes 2 elk and bar it was nearly dark we loaded our horses with the best of the meat and pursud the party and found them encamped as they had been directed in the first timber. we did not reach them until 9 P.M. they informed us that they had seen a very large bear in the plains which had pursued Sergt. Gass and Thomson some distance but their horses enabled them to keep out of it's reach. they were affraid to fire on the bear least their horses should throw them as they were unaccustomed to the gun. we killed five deer 3 Elk and a bear today saw vast herds of buffaloe in the evening below us on the river. we hered them bellowing about us all night. vast assemblages of wolves. saw a large herd of Elk making down the river. passed a considerable rapid in medicine river after dark. the river about a hundred yards wide is deep and in many parts rappid and today has been much crouded with islands. from our encampment down we know the river and there is no rapids and scarcely any courant. goosberries are very abundant of the common red kind and are begining to ripen. no currants on this river. both species of the prickly pears just in blume.
July 10th, 1806. Set out early and continued down the southwest bank of the river, heading N 75 E for 24 miles to our camp in a grove of cottonwood trees. For the last 7 miles of this route, there were no trees in the river bottom, while other parts of the river had wide-bottomed cottonwood areas. Most of the bottom land is treeless. The bottoms are broad and flat, and the high prairies or plains are also beautifully flat and smooth. There are large quantities of two kinds of prickly pear on the plains. The ground has become so muddy from the rain that fell yesterday that it is very tiring for the horses to travel. We covered 10 miles and stopped for lunch; the wind blowing down the river earlier made it hard for the hunters, who saw several groups of elk, but the elk managed to escape since they caught wind of us. In the evening, the wind shifted from the west, and we encountered a few elk, of which R. Fields and I killed three. One of them swam across the river and fell on the other side, so we lost its skin. I sent the packhorses on with Sergeant Gass, telling them to stop and camp at the first timber, which turned out to be about 7 miles ahead. I kept Frazier with me to help skin the elk. Around this time, we were joined by Drewyer. A large brown bear swam the river near us, and Drewyer shot and killed it. By the time we butchered these two elk and the bear, it was almost dark. We loaded our horses with the best meat and continued to catch up with the group, finding them camped as directed at the first timber. We didn't reach them until 9 PM. They told us that they had seen a very large bear on the plains that had chased Sergeant Gass and Thomson for some distance, but their horses allowed them to stay safe. They were afraid to shoot at the bear for fear their horses would throw them since they weren't used to the gunfire. Today, we killed five deer, three elk, and a bear. In the evening, we saw vast herds of buffalo below us on the river, hearing them bellowing around us all night, along with large groups of wolves. We saw a large herd of elk moving down the river. We navigated a substantial rapid in Medicine River after dark. The river, about a hundred yards wide, is deep and has many fast sections, and today it has been crowded with islands. From our camp downriver, we know there are no rapids and hardly any current. Gooseberries of the common red variety are abundant and starting to ripen. There are no currants in this river. Both types of prickly pear are in bloom.
[Lewis, July 11, 1806]
July 11th 1806. the morning was fair and the plains looked beatifull the grass much improved by the late rain. the air was pleasant and a vast assemblage of little birds which croud to the groves on the river sung most enchantingly. we set out early. I sent the hunters down Medicine river to hunt Elk and proceeded with the party across the plain to the white bear Islands which I found to be 8 ms. distant my course S. 75 E.- through a level beautiful) and extensive high plain covered with immence birds of buffaloe.—it is now the season at which the buffaloe begin to coppelate and the bulls keep a tremendious roaring we could hear them for many miles and there are such numbers of them that there is one continual roar. our horses had not been acquainted with the buffaloe they appeared much allarmed at their appearance and bellowing. when I arrived in sight of the whitebear Islands the missouri bottoms on both sides of the river were crouded with buffaloe I sincerely belief that there were not less than 10 thousand buffaloe within a circle of 2 miles arround that place. I met with the hunters at a little grove of timber opposite to the island where they had killed a cowl and were waiting our arrival. they had met with no elk. I directed the hunters to kill some buffaloe as well for the benifit of their skins to enable us to pass the river as for their meat for the men I meant to leave at this place. we unloaded our horses and encamped opposite to the Islands. had the cow skined and some willows sticks collected to make canoes of the hides by 12 OCk. they killed eleven buffaloe most of them in fine order. the bulls are now generally much fatter than the cows and are fine beef. I sent out all hands with the horses to assist in buthering and bringing in the meat by 3 in the evening we had brought in a large quantity of fine beef and as many hides as we wanted for canoes shelters and geer. I then set all hands to prepare two canoes the one we made after the mandan fassion with a single skin in the form of a bason and the other we constructed of two skins on a plan of our own. we were unable to compleat our canoes this evening. the wind blew very hard. we continued our operations untill dark and then retired to rest. I intend giving my horses a couple of days rest at this place and deposit all my baggage which is not necessary to my voyage up medicine river.
July 11th, 1806. The morning was lovely, and the plains looked beautiful, the grass much improved by the recent rain. The air was pleasant, and a large group of little birds that crowded the groves near the river sang enchantingly. We set out early. I sent the hunters down Medicine River to hunt elk and continued with the party across the plain to the White Bear Islands, which I found to be 8 miles away, heading S. 75 E. through a level, beautiful, and extensive high plain covered with huge buffalo herds. It’s now the season when buffalo begin to mate, and the bulls make a tremendous roaring noise; we could hear them from many miles away, and there were so many that a constant roar filled the air. Our horses weren't familiar with buffalo and seemed quite alarmed by their presence and bellowing. When I caught sight of the White Bear Islands, the Missouri bottoms on both sides of the river were crowded with buffalo. I honestly believe there were no fewer than 10,000 buffalo within a 2-mile radius of that spot. I met the hunters at a small grove of trees opposite the island, where they had killed a cow and were waiting for us. They hadn’t found any elk. I instructed the hunters to kill some buffalo for their hides to help us cross the river, as well as for the meat for the men I planned to leave at this location. We unloaded our horses and set up camp opposite the islands, had the cow skinned, and collected some willow sticks to make canoes out of the hides by noon. They killed eleven buffalo, most of them in good condition. The bulls are generally much fatter than the cows and make for great beef. I sent everyone out with the horses to help butcher and transport the meat, and by 3 PM, we had brought in a large quantity of fine beef and as many hides as we needed for canoes, shelters, and gear. I then had everyone work on preparing two canoes—one made after the Mandan style with a single skin shaped like a basin, and the other built from two skins based on our own design. We were unable to complete our canoes this evening due to the strong wind. We continued our work until dark and then retired for the night. I plan to give my horses a couple of days of rest here and store all my non-essential baggage for my journey up Medicine River.
[Lewis, July 12, 1806]
July 12th 1806. we arrose early and resumed our operations in compleating our canoes which we completed by 10 A.M. about this time two of the men whom I had dispatched this morning in quest of the horses returned with seven of them only. the remaining ten of our best horses were absent and not to be found. I fear that they are stolen. I dispatch two men on horseback in surch of them. the wind blew so violently that I did not think it prudent to attempt passing the river.—at Noon Werner returned having found three others of the horses near Fort Mountain. Sergt. Gass did not return untill 3 P.M. not having found the horses. he had been about 8 ms. up medecine river. I now dispatched Joseph Fields and Drewyer in quest of them. the former returned at dark unsuccessfull and the latter continued absent all night. at 5 P.M. the wind abated and we transported our baggage and meat to the opposite shore in our canoes which we found answered even beyond our expectations. we swam our horses over also and encamped at sunset. quetoes extreemly troublesome. I think the river is somewhat higher than when we were here last summer. the present season has been much more moist than the preceeding one. the grass and weeds are much more luxouriant than they were when I left this place on the 13th of July 1805 saw the brown thrush, pigeons, doves &c.
July 12, 1806. We got up early and continued working on our canoes, which we finished by 10 A.M. Around this time, two of the men I sent out this morning in search of the horses returned with only seven of them. The other ten best horses were missing and couldn’t be found. I’m worried they’ve been stolen. I sent two men on horseback to look for them. The wind was blowing so hard that I didn’t think it was wise to try to cross the river. At noon, Werner came back after finding three more horses near Fort Mountain. Sergeant Gass didn’t return until 3 P.M., having not found the horses. He had gone about 8 miles up Medicine River. I then sent Joseph Fields and Drewyer to look for them. Joseph returned after dark without success, while Drewyer was still gone all night. At 5 P.M., the wind died down, and we moved our gear and meat to the other side of the river in our canoes, which worked even better than we expected. We also swam our horses over and set up camp at sunset. The mosquitoes were extremely bothersome. I think the river is a bit higher than when we were here last summer. This season has been much wetter than the previous one. The grass and weeds are much more lush than they were when I left this place on July 13, 1805. I saw the brown thrush, pigeons, doves, etc.
the yellow Currants begining to ripen.
[Lewis, July 13, 1806]
13th July. removed above to my old station opposite the upper point of the white bear island. formed our camp and set Thompson &c at work to complete the geer for the horses. had the cash opened found my bearskins entirly destroyed by the water, the river having risen so high that the water had penitrated. all my specimens of plants also lost. the Chart of the Missouri fortunately escaped. opened my trunks and boxes and exposed the articles to dry. found my papers damp and several articles damp. the stoper had come out of a phial of laudinum and the contents had run into the drawer and distroyed a gret part of my medicine in such manner that it was past recovery. waited very impatiently for the return of Drewyer he did not arrive. Musquetoes excessively troublesome insomuch that without the protection of my musquetoe bier I should have found it impossible to wright a moment. the buffaloe are leaving us fast and passing on to the S. East. killed a buffaloe picker a beatifull bird.
July 13th. Moved back to my old spot near the upper point of White Bear Island. Set up camp and had Thompson and the others work on getting the gear ready for the horses. I opened the cash and found my bearskins completely ruined by the water, as the river had risen so high that it seeped in. I also lost all my plant specimens. Luckily, the chart of the Missouri survived. I opened my trunks and boxes to let everything dry out. My papers were damp and several items were also wet. The stopper had come out of a bottle of laudanum, and the contents spilled into the drawer, ruining a significant portion of my medicine beyond recovery. I waited very impatiently for Drewyer to return, but he didn’t show up. Mosquitoes were extremely bothersome, to the point that without the protection of my mosquito net, I wouldn’t have been able to write for even a moment. The buffalo are quickly moving away and heading southeast. I shot a buffalo picker, a beautiful bird.
[Lewis, July 14, 1806]
14th July Had the carriage wheels dug up found them in good order. the iron frame of the boat had not suffered materially. had the meat cut thiner and exposed to dry in the sun. and some roots of cows of which I have yet a small stock pounded into meal for my journey. I find the fat buffaloe meat a great improvement to the mush of these roots. the old cash being too damp to venture to deposit my trunks &c in I sent them over to the Large island and had them put on a high scaffold among some thick brush and covered with skins. I take this precaution lest some indians may visit the men I leave here before the arrival of the main party and rob them. the hunters killed a couple of wolves, the buffaloe have almost entirely disappeared. saw the bee martin. the wolves are in great numbers howling arround us and loling about in the plains in view at the distance of two or three hundred yards. I counted 27 about the carcase of a buffaloe which lies in the water at the upper point of the large island. these are generally of the large kind. Drewyer did not return this evening.-
14th July I had the carriage wheels dug up and found them in good condition. The iron frame of the boat hadn’t really been damaged. I had the meat cut thinner and laid out to dry in the sun. I also pounded some cow roots, of which I have a small supply, into meal for my journey. I find that the fat buffalo meat is a great improvement over the mush made from these roots. Since the old cache was too damp to risk storing my trunks and other things there, I sent them over to the large island and had them placed on a high scaffold among some thick brush and covered with skins. I'm taking this precaution in case some Indians visit the men I leave here before the main party arrives and rob them. The hunters killed a couple of wolves, but the buffalo have almost completely disappeared. I saw the bee martin. The wolves are numerous, howling around us and lounging about on the plains, visible from a distance of two or three hundred yards. I counted 27 near the carcass of a buffalo that lies in the water at the upper point of the large island. These wolves are generally of the larger kind. Drewyer didn’t return this evening.
[Lewis, July 15, 1806]
15 July 1806. Sent McNeal down this morning to the lower part of the portage to see whether the large perogue and cash were safe.—Drewyer returned without the horses and reported that he had tracked them to beyond our camp of the
15 July 1806. I sent McNeal down this morning to the lower part of the portage to check if the large canoe and cash were safe. Drewyer came back without the horses and said he had tracked them beyond our camp.
[Lewis, July 15, 1806]
Tuesday July 15th 1806. Dispatched McNeal early this morning to the lower part of portage in order to learn whether the Cash and white perogue remained untouched or in what state they were. the men employed in drying the meat, dressing deerskins and preparing for the reception of the canoes. at 1 P.M. Drewyer returned without the horses and reported that after a diligent surch of 2 days he had discovered where the horses had passed Dearborn's river at which place there were 15 lodges that had been abandoned about the time our horses were taken; he pursued the tracks of a number of horses from these lodges to the road which we had traveled over the mountains which they struck about 3 ms. South of our encampment of the 7th inst. and had pursued this road Westwardly; I have no doubt but they are a party of the Tushapahs who have been on a buffaloe hunt. Drewyer informed that there camp was in a small bottom on the river of about 5 acres inclosed by the steep and rocky and lofty clifts of the river and that so closely had they kept themselves and horses within this little spot that there was not a track to be seen of them within a quarter of a mile of that place. every spire of grass was eaten up by their horses near their camp which had the appearance of their having remained here some time. his horse being much fatiegued with the ride he had given him and finding that the indians had at least 2 days the start of him thought it best to return. his safe return has releived me from great anxiety. I had already settled it in my mind that a whitebear had killed him and should have set out tomorrow in surch of him, and if I could not find him to continue my rout to Maria's river. I knew that if he met with a bear in the plains even he would attack him. and that if any accedent should happen to seperate him from his horse in that situation the chances in favour of his being killed would be as 9 to 10. I felt so perfectly satisfyed that he had returned in safety that I thought but little of the horses although they were seven of the best I had. this loss great as it is, is not intirely irreparable, or at least dose not defeat my design of exploring Maria's river. I have yet 10 horses remaining, two of the best and two of the worst of which I leave to assist the party in taking the canoes and baggage over the portage and take the remaining 6 with me; these are but indifferent horses most of them but I hope they may answer our purposes. I shall leave three of my intended party, (viz ) Gass, Frazier and Werner, and take the two Feildses and Drewyer. by having two spare horses we can releive those we ride. having made this arrangement I gave orders for an early departure in the morning, indeed I should have set out instantly but McNeal road one of the horses which I intend to take and has not yet returned. a little before dark McNeal returned with his musquet broken off at the breech, and informed me that on his arrival at willow run he had approached a white bear within ten feet without discover him the bear being in the thick brush, the horse took the allarm and turning short threw him immediately under the bear; this animal raised himself on his hinder feet for battle, and gave him time to recover from his fall which he did in an instant and with his clubbed musquet he struck the bear over the head and cut him with the guard of the guns and broke off the breech, the bear stunned with the stroke fell to the ground and began to scratch his head with his feet; this gave McNeal time to climb a willow tree which was near at hand and thus fortunately made his escape. the bear waited at the foot of the tree untill late in the evening before he left him, when McNeal ventured down and caught his horse which had by this time strayed off to the distance of 2 ms. and returned to camp. these bear are a most tremenduous animal; it seems that the hand of providence has been most wonderfully in our favor with rispect to them, or some of us would long since have fallen a sacrifice to their farosity. there seems to be a sertain fatality attatched to the neighbourhood of these falls, for there is always a chapter of accedents prepared for us during our residence at them. the musquetoes continue to infest us in such manner that we can scarcely exist; for my own part I am confined by them to my bier at least 3/4ths of my time. my dog even howls with the torture he experiences from them, they are almost insupportable, they are so numerous that we frequently get them in our thrats as we breath.
Tuesday, July 15, 1806. I sent McNeal out early this morning to the lower part of the portage to find out if the cash and white perogue were still intact or in what condition they were. The men were busy drying meat, preparing deer skins, and getting ready to receive the canoes. At 1 P.M., Drewyer returned without the horses and reported that after searching diligently for two days, he discovered where the horses had crossed Dearborn's River, which was near 15 abandoned lodges, likely left around the time our horses were taken. He followed the tracks of several horses from those lodges to the road we had traveled over the mountains, which they reached about 3 miles south of our campsite on the 7th. I have no doubt that they are a group of Tushapahs who were out on a buffalo hunt. Drewyer mentioned that their camp was in a small bottom by the river, roughly 5 acres, surrounded by steep and rocky cliffs. They had kept themselves and their horses so close together in this little area that there were no tracks visible within a quarter of a mile. Every blade of grass around their camp was eaten down, indicating they had been there for a while. His horse was exhausted from the ride, and knowing the Indians had at least a two-day lead, he thought it was best to return. His safe return relieved me of a lot of anxiety. I had already convinced myself that a bear must have killed him and was ready to set out tomorrow to search for him, planning to continue to Maria's River if I couldn't find him. I knew that if he encountered a bear in the plains, he would engage it, and if anything separated him from his horse in that situation, the chances of him being killed would be about 9 to 10. I felt so relieved that he made it back safely that I thought little about the horses, even though I lost seven of the best ones I had. This loss, though significant, isn’t completely irrecoverable and doesn’t thwart my plans to explore Maria's River. I still have 10 horses left, two of the best and two of the worst, which I’ll leave behind to help the team transport the canoes and baggage over the portage, while I take the remaining six with me; they aren’t great horses, but I hope they’ll serve our purposes. I’ll leave three of my planned party, namely Gass, Frazier, and Werner, and take the two Fieldses and Drewyer with me. With two extra horses, we can switch off riding. Having made these arrangements, I ordered an early departure in the morning; I would have set out immediately, but McNeal rode one of the horses I plan to take and has yet to return. Just before dark, McNeal came back with his musket broken at the breech, telling me that upon reaching Willow Run, he got within ten feet of a white bear without realizing it because the bear was hidden in thick brush. The horse got startled, turned sharply, and threw him right in front of the bear. The bear stood up on its hind legs, ready to fight, giving McNeal enough time to get back on his feet. He struck the bear on the head with his broken musket and managed to make a cut with the guard, causing the breech to snap off. The bear was stunned by the blow and fell to the ground, scratching its head with its feet. This allowed McNeal to climb a nearby willow tree and escape. The bear waited at the base of the tree until late evening before leaving, and McNeal took the opportunity to catch his horse, which had wandered off about 2 miles away, and returned to camp. These bears are incredibly fierce animals; it seems that providence has been remarkably on our side regarding them, or some of us would have become victims of their ferocity long ago. There appears to be a certain fatality associated with this area near the falls because there always seems to be a chapter of accidents waiting for us during our time here. The mosquitoes continue to torment us so much that it's nearly unbearable; I am confined to my bed at least 75% of the time because of them. Even my dog howls in pain from their torment; they’re nearly impossible to endure, so numerous that we often end up inhaling them as we breathe.
[Lewis, July 16, 1806]
Wednesday July 16th 1806. I dispatched a man early this morning to drive up the horses as usual, he returned at 8 A.M. with one of them only. allarmed at this occurrence I dispatched one of my best hands on horseback in surch of them he returned at 10 A.M. with them and I immediately set out. sent Drewyer and R. Fields with the horses to the lower side of Medecine river, and proceeded myself with all our baggage and J. Fields down the missouri to the mouth of Medecine river in our canoe of buffaloe skins. we were compelled to swim the horses above the whitebear island and again across medicine river as the Missouri is of great width below the mouth of that river. having arrived safely below Medicine river we immediatly sadled our horses and proceeded down the river to the handsom fall of 47 feet where I halted about 2 hours and took a haisty sketch of these falls; in the mean time we had some meat cooked and took dinner after which we proceeded to the grand falls where we arrived at sunset. on our way we saw two very large bear on the opposite side of the river. as we arrived in sight of the little wood below the falls we saw two other bear enter it; this being the only wood in the neighbourhood we were compelled of course to contend with the bear for possession, and therefore left our horses in a place of security and entered the wood which we surched in vain for the bear, they had fled. here we encamped and the evening having the appearance of rain made our beds and slept under a shelving rock. these falls have abated much of their grandure since I first arrived at them in June 1805, the water being much lower at preset than it was at that moment, however they are still a sublimely grand object. I determined to take a second drawing of it in the morning. we saw a few buffaloe as we passed today, the immence hirds which were about this place on our arrival have principally passed the river and directed their course downwards. we see a number of goats or antilopes always in passing through the plains of the Missouri above the Mandans. at this season they are thinly scattered over the plains but seem universally distributed in every part; they appear very inquisitive usually to learn what we are as we pass, and frequently accompany us at no great distance for miles, frequently halting and giving a loud whistle through their nostrils, they are a very pretty animal and astonishingly fleet and active. we spent this evening free from the torture of the Musquetoes. there are a great number of geese which usually raise their young above these falls about the entrance of Medicine river we saw them in large flocks of several hundred as we passed today. I saw both yesterday and today the Cookkoo or as it is sometimes called the rain craw. this bird is not met with west of the Rocky Mountains nor within them.
Wednesday, July 16th, 1806. I sent a man out early this morning to bring up the horses like usual, but he came back at 8 A.M. with only one. Alarmed by this, I sent one of my best workers on horseback to look for them, and he returned at 10 A.M. with the missing horses. I immediately set out, sending Drewyer and R. Fields with the horses to the lower side of the Medicine River, while I took all our baggage and J. Fields down the Missouri to the mouth of the Medicine River in our buffalo skin canoe. We had to swim the horses above White Bear Island and again across the Medicine River, as the Missouri is very wide below the mouth of that river. Once we arrived safely below the Medicine River, we quickly saddled our horses and went down the river to the beautiful falls, which are 47 feet high. I stopped there for about 2 hours to make a quick sketch of the falls; meanwhile, we cooked some meat and had lunch. After that, we moved on to the Grand Falls, arriving at sunset. On the way, we spotted two very large bears on the opposite side of the river. As we got closer to the little woods below the falls, we saw two more bears enter it. Since this was the only wood around, we had to compete with the bears for space, so we left our horses in a safe spot and searched the woods for the bears, but they had fled. We set up camp there, and since it looked like rain in the evening, we made our beds and slept under a rocky overhang. These falls have lost some of their grandeur since I first saw them in June 1805, as the water is much lower now than it was then; however, they are still a magnificently grand sight. I decided to do a second sketch of it in the morning. We saw a few buffalo as we passed today; most of the immense herds that were here when we arrived have mostly moved downriver. We noticed several goats or antelopes while traveling through the Missouri plains above the Mandans. During this season, they are thinly scattered across the plains but seem to be everywhere; they appear very curious about us as we pass and often follow us at a distance for miles, frequently stopping and giving a loud whistle through their nostrils. They are beautiful animals and incredibly swift and agile. We spent the evening without the torment of mosquitoes. There are many geese that usually raise their young near these falls, and as we passed the entrance to the Medicine River, we saw them in large flocks numbering several hundred. I spotted the cuckoo, or as it's sometimes called, the rain crow, both yesterday and today. This bird is not found west of the Rocky Mountains or within them.
[Lewis, July 17, 1806]
Thursday July 17th 1806. I arrose early this morning and made a drawing of the falls. after which we took breakfast and departed. it being my design to strike Maria's river about the place at which I left it on my return to it's mouth in the begining of June 1805. I steered my course through the wide and level plains which have somewhat the appearance of an ocean, not a tree nor a shrub to be seen. the land is not fertile, at least far less so, than the plains of the Columbia or those lower down this river, it is a light coloured soil intermixed with a considerable proportion of coarse gravel without sand, when dry it cracks and appears thursty and is very hard, in it's wet state, it is as soft and slipry as so much soft soap the grass is naturally but short and at present has been rendered much more so by the graizing of the buffaloe, the whole face of the country as far as the eye can reach looks like a well shaved bowlinggreen, in which immence and numerous herds of buffaloe were seen feeding attended by their scarcely less numerous sheepherds the wolves. we saw a number of goats as usual today, also the party coloured plover with the brick red head and neck; this bird remains about the little ponds which are distributed over the face of these plains and here raise their young. we killed a buffaloe cow as we passed throug the plains and took the hump and tonge which furnish ample rations for four men one day. at 5 P.M. we arrived at rose rivers where I purposed remaining all night as I could not reach maria's river this evening and unless I did there would be but little probability of our finding any wood and very probably no water either. on our arrival at the river we saw where a wounded and bleading buffaloe had just passed and concluded it was probable that the indians had been runing them and were near at hand. the Minnetares of Fort de prarie and the blackfoot indians rove through this quarter of the country and as they are a vicious lawless and reather an abandoned set of wretches I wish to avoid an interview with them if possible. I have no doubt but they would steel our horses if they have it in their power and finding us weak should they happen to be numerous wil most probably attempt to rob us of our arms and baggage; at all events I am determined to take every possible precaution to avoid them if possible. I hurried over the river to a thick wood and turned out the horses to graize; sent Drewyer to pursue and kill the wounded buffaloe in order to determine whether it had been wounded by the indians or not, and proceeded myself to reconnoitre the adjacent country having sent R. Fields for the same purpose a different rout. I ascended the river hills and by the help of my glass examined the plains but could make no discovery, in about an hour I returned to camp, where I met with the others who had been as unsuccessfull as myself. Drewyer could not find the wounded buffaloe. J. Fields whom I had left at camp had already roasted some of the buffaloe meat and we took dinner after which I sent Drewyer and R. Fields to resume their resurches for the indians; and set myself down to record the transactions of the day. rose river is at this place fifty yards wide, the water which is only about 3 feet deep occupys about 35 yds. and is very terbid of a white colour. the general course of this river is from East to west so far as I can discover it's track through the plains, it's bottoms are wide and well timbered with cottonwood both the broad and narrow leafed speceis. the bed of this stream is small gravel and mud; it's banks are low but never overflow, the hills are about 100 or 150 feet high; it possesses bluffs of earth like the lower part of the Missouri; except the debth and valocity of it's stream and it is the Missouri in miniture. from the size of rose river at this place and it's direction I have no doubt but it takes it's source within the first range of the Rocky mountains. the bush which bears the red berry is here in great plenty in the river bottoms The spies returned having killed 2 beaver and a deer. they reported that they saw no appearance of Indians.-
Thursday, July 17, 1806. I got up early this morning and drew the falls. After that, we had breakfast and set off. I aimed to reach Maria's River at the spot where I left it when I returned to its mouth in early June 1805. I navigated through the wide, flat plains that looked a bit like an ocean, with not a tree or shrub in sight. The land isn't fertile, at least much less so than the plains of the Columbia or further down this river; it's a light-colored soil mixed with a considerable amount of coarse gravel, without sand. When dry, it cracks and seems thirsty, and is very hard; when wet, it's soft and slippery like soft soap. The grass is naturally short and has been made even shorter by the grazing of the buffalo; the entire landscape as far as the eye can see resembles a well-manicured bowling green, in which immense and numerous herds of buffalo were grazing, attended by their equally numerous shepherds, the wolves. We spotted several goats as usual today, as well as the colorful plover with the brick-red head and neck; this bird stays around the small ponds scattered across these plains to raise its young. We killed a buffalo cow as we crossed the plains and took the hump and tongue, which provided enough food for four men for one day. At 5 PM, we reached Rose River, where I planned to stay the night since I couldn't make it to Maria's River this evening. If I didn’t, there would be little chance of finding any wood and probably no water either. When we arrived at the river, we noticed where a wounded and bleeding buffalo had just passed and figured it was likely that the Indians had been chasing them and were nearby. The Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie and the Blackfoot Indians roam this area, and since they are a vicious, lawless, and pretty reckless group, I want to avoid running into them if possible. I have no doubt they would steal our horses if they had the chance, and if they found us weak while they were numerous, they would most probably try to rob us of our arms and gear; in any case, I'm determined to take every possible precaution to avoid them. I quickly crossed the river to a thick wood and let the horses graze; I sent Drewyer to track down and kill the wounded buffalo to determine whether it had been injured by the Indians or not, and I went to scout the nearby area, having sent R. Fields to do the same thing via a different route. I climbed the river hills and with the help of my binoculars examined the plains but couldn't find anything. About an hour later, I returned to camp, where I met up with the others who had been just as unsuccessful as I was. Drewyer couldn't find the wounded buffalo. J. Fields, whom I had left at camp, had already roasted some of the buffalo meat, so we had dinner, after which I sent Drewyer and R. Fields to continue their search for the Indians, and I sat down to record the day’s events. Rose River is fifty yards wide at this point; the water is only about three feet deep and occupies about thirty-five yards, and it's very murky and white. The general direction of this river is from east to west, as far as I can see its course through the plains; its banks are wide and well-wooded with both broad and narrow-leaved cottonwood species. The riverbed consists of small gravel and mud; its banks are low but never flood. The hills rise about 100 to 150 feet high, featuring earthy bluffs similar to the lower Missouri; except for the depth and speed of its stream, it's a miniature version of the Missouri. Given Rose River's size and direction here, I have no doubt it originates within the first range of the Rocky Mountains. The bush that bears the red berries is abundant in the river valleys. The scouts returned having killed two beavers and a deer. They reported seeing no sign of Indians.
[Lewis, July 18, 1806]
Friday July 18th 1806. We set out this morning a little before sunrise ascended the river hills and continued our rout as yesterday through the open plains at about 6 miles we reached the top of an elivated plain which divides the waters of the rose river from those of Maria's river. from hence the North mountains, the South mountains, the falls mountains and the Tower Mountain and those arround and to the East of the latter were visible. our course led us nearly parrallel with a creek of Maria's river which takes it's rise in these high plains at the place we passed them; at noon we struck this creek about 6 ms. from its junction with Maria's river where we found some cottonwood timber; here we halted to dine and graize our horses. the bed of this creek is about 25 yds. wide at this place but is nearly dry at present, the water being confined to little pools in the deeper parts of it's bed. from hence downwards there is a considerable quantity of timber in it's bottom. we passed immence herds of buffaloe on our way in short for about 12 miles it appeared as one herd only the whole plains and vally of this creek being covered with them; saw a number of wolves of both speceis, also Antelopes and some horses. after dinner we proceeded about 5 miles across the plain to Maria's river where we arrived at 6 P.M. we killed a couple of buffaloe in the bottom of this river and encamped on it's west side in a grove of cottonwood some miles above the entrance of the creek. being now convinced that we were above the point to which I had formerly ascended this river and faring that a fork of this stream might fall in on the Northside between this place and the point to which I had ascended it, I directed Drewyer who was with me on my former excurtion, and Joseph Fields to decend the river early in the morning to the place from whence I had returned, and examine whether any stream fell inn or not. I keep a strict lookout every night, I take my tour of watch with the men.
Friday, July 18, 1806. We set out this morning just before sunrise, climbed the river hills, and continued our route like yesterday through the open plains. After about 6 miles, we reached the top of an elevated plain that separates the waters of the Rose River from those of Maria's River. From here, we could see the North Mountains, the South Mountains, the Falls Mountains, Tower Mountain, and those around and to the east of it. Our path ran nearly parallel to a creek of Maria's River, which rises in these high plains where we passed. At noon, we hit this creek about 6 miles from its junction with Maria's River, where we found some cottonwood trees; we stopped here to eat and let our horses graze. The creek bed is about 25 yards wide at this point but is mostly dry now, with water only in small pools in the deeper parts of the bed. Going downstream, there's a good amount of timber in its bottom. We passed huge herds of buffalo on our way; for about 12 miles, it seemed like one giant herd, with the whole plains and valley of this creek covered in them. We also saw several wolves of both species, antelopes, and some horses. After lunch, we moved about 5 miles across the plain to Maria's River, arriving at 6 P.M. We killed a couple of buffalo in the bottom of this river and set up camp on its west side in a grove of cottonwood trees, a few miles above the creek's mouth. Now convinced that we were above the point I had previously reached on this river, and fearing that a fork of this stream might join on the north side between here and where I had gone before, I instructed Drewyer, who was with me on my earlier trip, and Joseph Fields to head downstream early in the morning to the place I had turned back and check if any stream joined in or not. I keep a strict lookout every night and take my turn on watch with the men.
[Lewis, July 19, 1806]
Saturday July 19th 1806. Drewyer and J. Fields set out early this morning in conformity to my instructions last evening. they returned at 1/2 after 12 OCk. and informed me that they had proceeded down the river to the place from which I had returned on the ____ of June last and that it was 6 miles distant. they passed the entrance of buffaloe Creek at 2 ms. the course of the river from hence downwards as far as they were is N. 80 E. they killed 8 deer and two Antelopes on their way; most of the deer were large fat mule bucks. having completed my observation of the sun's meridian Altitude we set out, ascended the river hills having passed the river and proceeded through the open plains up the N. side of the river 20 miles and encamped. at 15 miles we passed a large creek on N. side a little above it's entrance; there is but little running water in this creek at present, it's bed is about 30 yds. wide and appears to come from the broken Mountains so called from their raggid and irregular shape there are three of them extending from east to West almost unconnected, the center mountain terminates in a conic spire and is that which I have called the tower mountain they are destitute of timber. from the entrance of this creek they bore N. 10° W. the river bottoms are usually about 1/2 a mile wide and possess a considerable quantity of timber entirely cottonwood; the underbrush is honeysuckle rose bushes the narrow leafed willow and the bush which bears the acid red berry called by the french engages grease de buff. just as we halted to encamp R. Fields killed a mule doe. the plains are beautifull and level but the soil is but thin. in many parts of the plains there are great quantities of prickly pears. saw some herds of buffaloe today but not in such quantities as yesterday, also antelopes, wolves, gees, pigeons, doves, hawks, ravens crows larks sparrows &c. the Curlooe has disappeared.
Saturday, July 19th, 1806. Drewyer and J. Fields set out early this morning according to my instructions from last evening. They returned at 12:30 PM and told me that they had gone down the river to the spot I had returned from on the ____ of June and that it was 6 miles away. They passed the entrance of Buffalo Creek at 2 miles. The river's course from there downwards, as far as they went, is N. 80 E. They killed 8 deer and 2 antelopes on their way; most of the deer were large, fat mule bucks. After completing my observation of the sun's meridian altitude, we set out, went up the river hills after crossing the river, and traveled through the open plains on the north side of the river for 20 miles before camping. At 15 miles, we passed a large creek on the north side, a bit above its entrance; there's not much running water in this creek right now, its bed is about 30 yards wide and seems to come from the broken mountains, named for their rugged and irregular shape. Three of them stretch from east to west, almost unconnected; the central mountain ends in a conic spire and is what I’ve called Tower Mountain. They have no timber. From the entrance of this creek, they bear N. 10° W. The river bottoms are usually about half a mile wide and have a good amount of cottonwood timber; the underbrush includes honeysuckle, rose bushes, narrow-leafed willows, and the bush that bears the sour red berry called in French "engages grease de buff." Just as we stopped to camp, R. Fields killed a mule doe. The plains are beautiful and level, but the soil is quite thin. In many areas of the plains, there are vast quantities of prickly pears. I saw some herds of buffalo today, but not as many as yesterday, as well as antelopes, wolves, geese, pigeons, doves, hawks, ravens, crows, larks, sparrows, etc. The curlew has disappeared.
[Lewis, July 20, 1806]
Sunday July 20th 1806 We set at sunrise and proceed through the open plain as yesterday up the North side of the river. the plains are more broken than they were yesterday and have become more inferior in point of soil; a great quanty of small gravel is every where distributed over the surface of the earth which renders travling extreemly painfull to our bearfoot horses. the soil is generally a white or whiteish blue clay, this where it has been trodden by the buffaloe when wet has now become as firm as a brickbat and stands in an inumerable little points quite as formidable to our horses feet as the gravel. the mineral salts common to the plains of the missouri has been more abundant today than usual. the bluffs of the river are about 200 feet high, steep irregular and formed of earth which readily desolves with water, slips and precipitates itself into the river as before mentioned frequentlly of the bluffs of the Missouri below which they resemble in every particular, differing essencially from those of the Missouri above the entrance of this river, they being composed of firm red or yellow clay which dose not yeald readily to the rains and a large quantity of rock. the soil of the river bottom is fertile and well timbered, I saw some trees today which would make small canoes. the timber is generally low. the underbrush the same as before mentioned. we have seen fewer buffaloe today than usual, though more Elk and not less wolves and Antelopes also some mule deer; this speceis of deer seems most prevalent in this quarter. saw some gees ducks and other birds common to the country. there is much appearance of beaver on this river, but not any of otter. from the apparent decent of the country to the North and above the broken mountains I am induced to beleive that the South branch of the Suskashawan receives a part of it's waters from the plain even to the borders of this river and from the brakes visible in the plains in a nothern direction think that a branch of that river decending from the rocky mountains passes at no great distance from Maria's river and to the N. E. of the broken mountains. the day has proved excessively warm and we lay by four hours during the heat of it; we traveled 28 miles and encamped as usual in the river bottom on it's N. side. there is scarcely any water at present in the plains and what there is, lies in small pools and is so strongly impregnated with the mineral salts that it is unfit for any purpose except the uce of the buffaloe. these animals appear to prefer this water to that of the river. the wild liquorice and sunflower are very abundant in the plains and river bottoms, the latter is now in full blume; the silkgrass and sand rush are also common to the bottom lands. the musquetoes have not been troublesome to us since we left the whitebear islands.-
Sunday, July 20th, 1806 We set off at sunrise and traveled through the open plain like yesterday, on the north side of the river. The plains are more uneven than they were yesterday and have poorer soil; there’s a large amount of small gravel scattered across the ground, making it extremely painful for our barefoot horses to travel. The soil is mostly a whitish blue clay, and where it has been trodden by the buffalo when wet, it has become as hard as brick and stands in countless little points that are as tough on our horses' feet as the gravel. The mineral salts common to the Missouri plains have been more prevalent today than usual. The river bluffs are about 200 feet high, steep and irregular, made of earth that easily dissolves in water, sliding down into the river as mentioned before, frequently resembling the bluffs of the Missouri below, which differ significantly from those of the Missouri above this river's entrance. The latter is made of solid red or yellow clay that doesn’t yield easily to rain and has a large amount of rock. The river bottom soil is fertile and well-timbered; I saw some trees today that could make small canoes, though the timber is generally low. The underbrush is the same as previously described. We’ve seen fewer buffalo today than usual, but more elk, as well as the same number of wolves and antelopes, including some mule deer, which seem to be most common in this area. I also spotted some geese, ducks, and other birds typical of the region. There are many signs of beaver in this river, but none of otter. From the evident descent of the land to the north, above the broken mountains, I’m led to believe that the south branch of the Saskatchewan gets some of its water from the plain all the way to the borders of this river, and based on the visible breaks in the plains to the north, I think a branch of that river flowing from the Rocky Mountains passes not far from Maria's River and northeast of the broken mountains. The day has been extremely hot, and we rested for four hours during the peak heat; we traveled 28 miles and set up camp as usual on the north side of the river bottom. There’s hardly any water available in the plains right now, and what little there is lies in small pools, heavily contaminated with mineral salts, making it unsuitable for anything except buffalo use. These animals seem to prefer this water over that of the river. Wild licorice and sunflowers are abundant in the plains and river bottoms, with the latter now in full bloom; silkgrass and sand rush are also common in the lowlands. The mosquitoes haven’t bothered us since we left the White Bear Islands.
[Lewis, July 21, 1806]
Monday July 21st 1806. We set out at sunrise and proceeded a short distance up the North side of the river; we found the ravines which made in on this side were so steep and numerous that we passed the river in doing which the pack horse which carried my instruments missed the ford and wet the instruments. this accident detained us about half an hor. I took the Instruments out wiped them and dryed their cases, they sustained no naterial injury. we continued on the S. side of the river about 3 miles when we again passed over to the N. side and took our course through the plains at some distance from the river. we saw a large herd of Elk this morning. the buffaloe still become more scarce. at 2 P.M. we struck a northern branch of Marias river about 30 yds. wide at the distance of about 8 miles from it's entrance. this stream is closely confined between clifts of freestone rocks the bottom narrow below us and above the rocks confine it on each side; some little timber below but not any above; the water of this stream is nearly clear. from the appearance of this rock and the apparent hight of the bed of the streem I am induced to beleive that there are falls in these rivers somewhere about their junction. being convinced that this stream came from the mountains I determined to pursue it as it will lead me to the most nothern point to which the waters of Maria's river extend which I now fear will not be as far north as I wished and expected. after dinner we set out up the North branch keeping on it's S. side; we pursued it untill dark and not finding any timber halted and made a fire of the dung of the buffaloe. we lay on the south side in a narrow bottom under a Clift. our provision is nearly out, we wounded a buffaloe this evening but could not get him.
Monday, July 21st, 1806. We set out at sunrise and traveled a short distance along the north side of the river. We found that the ravines leading off this side were so steep and plentiful that we had to cross the river. In the process, the pack horse carrying my instruments missed the ford and got the instruments wet. This mishap delayed us for about half an hour. I took the instruments out, wiped them off, and dried their cases; they didn’t sustain any significant damage. We continued on the south side of the river for about 3 miles before crossing back to the north side and moving through the plains, a bit farther from the river. This morning, we spotted a large herd of elk. The bison are becoming increasingly scarce. At 2 P.M., we reached a northern branch of the Marias River, which was about 30 yards wide, approximately 8 miles from its entrance. This stream is tightly squeezed between cliffs of freestone rocks, with a narrow bottom both below us and above, where the rocks confine it on each side. There is some small timber downstream, but none upstream; the water in this stream is nearly clear. Based on the appearance of the rock and the apparent height of the riverbed, I believe there are waterfalls somewhere near the junction of these rivers. Convinced that this stream comes from the mountains, I decided to follow it, as it will lead me to the northernmost point of the waters of the Marias River, which I now fear won’t be as far north as I had hoped and expected. After dinner, we set out up the north branch, staying on its south side; we followed it until dark and, not finding any timber, we stopped and made a fire using buffalo dung. We slept on the south side in a narrow valley under a cliff. Our food supplies are nearly out; we wounded a buffalo this evening but couldn’t catch it.
[Lewis, July 22, 1806]
Tuesday July 22ed 1806. We set out very early this morning as usual and proceeded up the river. for the first seven miles of our travel this morning the country was broken the land poor and intermixed with a greater quantity of gravel than usual; the ravines were steep and numerous and our horses feet have become extreemly soar in traveling over the gravel we therefore traveled but slow. we met with a doe Elk which we wounded but did not get her. the river is confined closely between clifts of perpendicular rocks in most parts. after the distance of seven miles the country became more level les gravly and some bottoms to the river but not a particle of timber nor underbush of any discription is to be seen. we continued up the river on it's South side for 17 miles when we halted to glaize our horses and eat; there being no wood we were compelled to make our fire with the buffaloe dung which I found answered the purpose very well. we cooked and eat all the meat we had except a small peice of buffaloe meat which was a little tainted. after dinner we passed the river and took our course through a level and beautifull plain on the N. side. the country has now become level, the river bottoms wide and the adjoining plains but little elivated above them; the banks of the river are not usually more than from 3 to four feet yet it dose not appear ever to overflow them. we found no timber untill we had traveled 12 miles further when we arrived at a clump of large cottonwood trees in a beautifull and extensive bottom of the river about 10 miles below the foot of the rocky mountains where this river enters them; as I could see from hence very distinctly where the river entered the mountains and the bearing of this point being S of West I thought it unnecessary to proceed further and therefore encamped resolving to rest ourselves and horses a couple of days at this place and take the necessary observations. this plain on which we are is very high; the rocky mountains to the S. W. of us appear but low from their base up yet are partially covered with snow nearly to their bases. there is no timber on those mountains within our view; they are very irregular and broken in their form and seem to be composed principally of clay with but little rock or stone. the river appears to possess at least double the vollume of water which it had where we first arrived on it below; this no doubt proceeds from the avapparation caused by the sun and air and the absorbing of the earth in it's passage through these open plains. The course of the mountains still continues from S. E. to N. W. the front rang appears to terminate abrubtly about 35 ms. to the N. W. Of us. I believe that the waters of the Suskashawan apporoach the borders of this river very nearly. I now have lost all hope of the waters of this river ever extending to N Latitude 50° though I still hope and think it more than probable that both white earth river and milk river extend as far north as latd. 50°—we have seen but few buffaloe today no deer and very few Antelopes; gam of every discription is extreemly wild which induces me to beleive that the indians are now, or have been lately in this neighbourhood. we wounded a buffaloe this evening but our horses were so much fatiegued that we were unable to pursue it with success.-
Tuesday, July 22, 1806. We set out very early this morning as usual and continued up the river. For the first seven miles of our journey this morning, the terrain was rough, the land poor, and the gravel more abundant than usual; the ravines were steep and plentiful, and our horses' feet became extremely sore from traveling over the gravel, so we moved slowly. We encountered a doe elk that we wounded but couldn't catch. The river was tightly bordered by cliffs of vertical rock in most areas. After traveling seven miles, the land became flatter, less gravelly, and there were some low areas next to the river, but not a single tree or underbrush of any kind was visible. We kept going up the river on its south side for 17 miles when we stopped to rest our horses and eat; since there was no firewood, we had to use buffalo dung to start our fire, which worked well. We cooked and ate all the meat we had except for a small piece of buffalo meat that was slightly spoiled. After lunch, we crossed the river and made our way through a flat and beautiful plain on the north side. The land was now level, the riverbanks wide, and the surrounding plains were only slightly elevated. The riverbanks were generally about three to four feet high, but they never seemed to overflow. We didn't find any timber until we had traveled 12 more miles, when we came across a cluster of large cottonwood trees in a beautiful and extensive river bottom about 10 miles below the foot of the Rocky Mountains, where this river enters them. From here, I could see very clearly where the river entered the mountains, and since this point bore S of W, I thought it unnecessary to go further, so we set up camp, deciding to rest ourselves and our horses for a couple of days and take the necessary observations. This plain we are on is quite high; the Rocky Mountains to the southwest appear fairly low from their base up, yet they are partially covered with snow nearly to their bases. There is no timber on those mountains within our view; they are very irregular and broken in shape and seem mainly composed of clay with little rock or stone. The river seems to have at least double the volume of water compared to where we first encountered it. This probably results from evaporation caused by the sun and air and the earth absorbing moisture in its journey through these open plains. The mountain range continues from southeast to northwest, and the front range appears to end abruptly about 35 miles to the northwest of us. I believe that the waters of the Saskatchewan River come very close to this river. I have now lost all hope that this river will extend to N Latitude 50°, although I still think it's likely that both White Earth River and Milk River go as far north as Latitude 50°—we have seen very few buffalo today, no deer, and only a handful of antelope; game of every kind is extremely skittish, which leads me to believe that the Indians are currently or have recently been in this area. We wounded a buffalo this evening, but our horses were so tired that we couldn't pursue it successfully.
[Lewis, July 23, 1806]
Wednesdy July 23rd 1806 I dispatched Drewyer an Joseph fields this morning to hunt. I directed Drewyer who went up the river to observe it's bearings and the point at which it entered the mountains, this he did and on his return I observed the point at which the river entered to bear S 50° W. distant about ten miles the river making a considerable bend to the West just above us.
Wednesday, July 23, 1806, I sent Drewyer and Joseph Fields out this morning to hunt. I instructed Drewyer to go up the river to observe its course and the spot where it entered the mountains. He did that, and upon his return, I noted that the point where the river entered was S 50° W, about ten miles away, with the river making a significant bend to the west just above us.
both these hunters returned unsuccessful and reported that there was no game nor the appearance of any in this quarter. we now rendered the grease from our tainted meat and made some mush of cows with a part of it, reserving as much meal of cows and grease as would afford us one more meal tomorrow. Drewyer informed us that there was an indian camp of eleven leather lodges which appeared to have been abandoned about 10 days, the poles only of the lodges remained. we are confident that these are the Minnetares of fort de prarie and suspect that they are probably at this time somewhere on the main branch of Maria's river on the borders of the buffaloe, under this impression I shall not strike that river on my return untill about the mouth of the North branch. near this place I observe a number of the whistleing squirrel of the speceis common to the plains and country watered by the Columbia river, this is the first instance in which I have found this squirrel in the plains of the Missouri. the Cottonwood of this place is also of the speceis common to the Columbia. we have a delightfull pasture for our horses where we are.
Both of these hunters came back empty-handed and reported that there was no game or any sign of it in this area. We processed the fat from our spoiled meat and made some mush with part of it, saving enough meal and grease to give us one more meal tomorrow. Drewyer told us there was an Indian camp with eleven leather lodges that seemed to have been abandoned about ten days ago; only the poles of the lodges were left. We believe these were the Minnetares from Fort de Prairie and suspect they are probably somewhere along the main branch of Maria's River, near the buffalo. With this in mind, I won’t head towards that river on my return until I get close to the mouth of the North branch. Nearby, I noticed a number of whistling squirrels of the species common to the plains and the areas around the Columbia River; this is the first time I’ve seen this type of squirrel on the plains of the Missouri. The Cottonwood trees here are also of the species common to the Columbia. We have a lovely pasture for our horses where we are.
The clouds obscured the moon and put an end to further observation. the rok which makes its appearance on this part of the river is of a white colour fine grit and makes excellet whetstones; it lies in horizontal stratas and makes it's appearance in the bluffs of the river near their base. we indeavoured to take some fish but took only one small trout. Musquetoes uncommonly large and reather troublesome.
The clouds hid the moon, stopping any further observation. The rock that appears in this part of the river is white, made of fine grit, and is great for making whetstones. It lies in horizontal layers and can be found in the bluffs near their base. We tried to catch some fish but only got one small trout. The mosquitoes were unusually large and quite bothersome.
[Lewis, July 24, 1806]
Thursday July 24th 1806. At 8 A.M. the sun made it's appearance for a few minutes and I took it's altitude but it shortly after clouded up again and continued to rain the ballance of the day I was therefore unable to complete the observations I wished to take at this place. I determined to remain another day in the hope of it's being fair. we have still a little bread of cows remaining of which we made a kettle of mush which together with a few pigeons that we were fortunate enough to kill served us with food for this day. I sent the hunters out but they shortly returned without having killed anything and declared that it was useless to hunt within 6 or 8 miles of this place that there was no appearance of game within that distance. the air has become extreemly cold which in addition to the wind and rain renders our situation extreemly unpleasant. several wolves visited our camp today, I fired on and wounded one of them very badly. the small speceis of wolf barks like a dog, they frequently salute us with this note as we pass through the plains.
Thursday, July 24th, 1806. At 8 A.M., the sun appeared for a few minutes, and I took its altitude, but it soon clouded over again and rained for the rest of the day. I was unable to complete the observations I wanted to make at this location, so I decided to stay another day, hoping for better weather. We still have a little bread and some cows left, which we used to make a pot of mush, and a few pigeons we were lucky enough to catch provided us with food for the day. I sent the hunters out, but they quickly returned without any kills and said it was pointless to hunt within 6 or 8 miles as there was no sign of game around. The air has become extremely cold, and along with the wind and rain, it makes our situation very unpleasant. Several wolves came to visit our camp today, and I shot at one and badly wounded it. The small species of wolf barks like a dog; they often greet us with this sound as we pass through the plains.
[Lewis, July 25, 1806]
Friday July 25th 1806. The weather still continues cold cloudy and rainy, the wind also has blown all day with more than usual violence from the N. W. this morning we eat the last of our birds and cows, I therefore directed Drewyer and J. Fields to take a couple of the horses and proceed to the S. E. as far as the main branch of Maria's river which I expected was at no great distance and indeavour to kill some meat; they set out immediately and I remained in camp with R. Fields to avail myself of every opportunity to make my observations should any offer, but it continued to rain and I did not see the sun through the whole course of the day R. Fields and myself killed nine pigeons which lit in the trees near our camp on these we dined. late in the evening Drewyer and J. Fields returned the former had killed a fine buck on which we now fared sumptuously. they informed me that it was about 10 miles to the main branch of Maria's River, that the vally formed by the river in that quarter was wide extensive and level with a considerable quantity timber; here they found some wintering camps of the natives and a great number of others of a more recent date or that had from appearance been evacuated about 6 weeks; we consider ourselves extreemly fortunate in not having met with these people. I determined that if tomorrow continued cloudy to set out as I now begin to be apprehensive that I shall not reach the United States within this season unless I make every exertion in my power which I shall certainly not omit when once I leave this place which I shall do with much reluctance without having obtained the necessary data to establish it's longitude-as if the fates were against me my chronometer from some unknown cause stoped today, when I set her to going she went as usual.
Friday, July 25, 1806. The weather is still cold, cloudy, and rainy. The wind has been blowing all day with more than usual intensity from the northwest. This morning, we ate the last of our birds and cows, so I sent Drewyer and J. Fields to take a couple of horses and head southeast as far as the main branch of Maria's River, which I expected was not too far away, and try to hunt some meat. They set out immediately, and I stayed in camp with R. Fields to make the most of any opportunity to take observations, should one arise, but it continued to rain, and I didn’t see the sun all day. R. Fields and I managed to kill nine pigeons that landed in the trees near our camp, and we had those for lunch. Late in the evening, Drewyer and J. Fields returned; Drewyer had killed a fine buck, which gave us a lavish meal. They told me it was about ten miles to the main branch of Maria's River and that the valley formed by the river in that area was wide, extensive, and flat with plenty of timber. They also found some winter camps of the natives and many others that looked like they had been abandoned about six weeks ago; we consider ourselves extremely lucky not to have encountered these people. I decided that if tomorrow remains cloudy, I would set out because I’m becoming concerned that I won’t reach the United States this season unless I make every effort possible, which I certainly won’t neglect once I leave this place. However, I will do so with great reluctance without having obtained the necessary information to establish its longitude—as if fate were against me, my chronometer inexplicably stopped today; when I restarted it, it functioned as usual.
[Lewis, July 26, 1806]
Saturday July 26th 1806. The moring was cloudy and continued to rain as usual, tho the cloud seemed somewhat thiner. I therefore posponed seting out untill 9 A.M. in the hope that it would clear off but finding the contrary result I had the horses caught and we set out biding a lasting adieu to this place which I now call camp disappointment. I took my rout through the open plains S. E. 5 ms. passing a small creek at 2 ms. from the mountains wher I changed my direction to S. 75 E. for 7 ms. further and struck a principal branch of Maria's river 65 yds. wide, not very deep, I passed this stream to it's south side and continued down it 2 ms. on the last mentioned course when another branch of nearly the same dignity formed a junction with it, coming from the S. W. this last is shallow and rappid; has the appearance of overflowing it's banks frequently and discharging vast torrants of water at certain seasons of the year. the beds of both these streams are pebbly particularly the S. branch. the water of the N. branch is very terbid while that of the S. branch is nearly clear not withstanding the late rains. I passed the S. branch just above it's junction and continued down the river which runs a little to the N of E 1 ms. and halted to dine and graize our horses here I found some indian lodges which appeared to have been inhabited last winter in a large and fertile bottom well stocked with cottonwood timber. the rose honeysuckle and redberry bushes constitute the undergrowth there being but little willow in this quarter both these rivers abov their junction appeared to be well stocked with timber or comparitively so with other parts of this country. here it is that we find the three species of cottonwood which I have remarked in my voyage assembled together that speceis common to the Columbia I have never before seen on the waters of the Missouri, also the narrow and broad leafed speceis. during our stay at this place R. Fields killed a buck a part of the flesh of which we took with us. we saw a few Antelopes some wolves and 2 of the smallest speceis of fox of a redish brown colour with the extremity of the tail black. it is about the size of the common domestic cat and burrows in the plains. after dinner I continued my rout down the river to the North of Eat about 3 ms. when the hills putting in close on the S side I determined to ascend them to the high plain which I did accordingly, keeping the Fields with me; Drewyer passed the river and kept down the vally of the river. I had intended to decend this river with it's course to it's junction with the fork which I had ascended and from thence have taken across the country obliquely to rose river and decend that stream to it's confluence with Maria's river. the country through which this portion of Maria's river passes to the fork which I ascended appears much more broken than that above and between this and the mountains. I had scarcely ascended the hills before I discovered to my left at the distance of a mile an assembleage of about 30 horses, I halted and used my spye glass by the help of which I discovered several indians on the top of an eminence just above them who appeared to be looking down towards the river I presumed at Drewyer. about half the horses were saddled. this was a very unpleasant sight, however I resolved to make the best of our situation and to approach them in a friendly manner. I directed J. Fields to display the flag which I had brought for that purpose and advanced slowly toward them, about this time they discovered us and appeared to run about in a very confused manner as if much allarmed, their attention had been previously so fixed on Drewyer that they did not discover us untill we had began to advance upon them, some of them decended the hill on which they were and drove their horses within shot of it's summit and again returned to the hight as if to wate our arrival or to defend themselves. I calculated on their number being nearly or quite equal to that of their horses, that our runing would invite pursuit as it would convince them that we were their enimies and our horses were so indifferent that we could not hope to make our escape by flight; added to this Drewyer was seperated from us and I feared that his not being apprized of the indians in the event of our attempting to escape he would most probably fall a sacrefice. under these considerations I still advanced towards them; when we had arrived within a quarter of a mile of them, one of them mounted his horse and rode full speed towards us, which when I discovered I halted and alighted from my horse; he came within a hundred paces halted looked at us and turned his horse about and returned as briskly to his party as he had advanced; while he halted near us I held out my hand and becconed to him to approach but he paid no attention to my overtures. on his return to his party they all decended the hill and mounted their horses and advanced towards us leaving their horses behind them, we also advanced to meet them. I counted eight of them but still supposed that there were others concealed as there were several other horses saddled. I told the two men with me that I apprehended that these were the Minnetares of Fort de Prarie and from their known character I expected that we were to have some difficulty with them; that if they thought themselves sufficiently strong I was convinced they would attempt to rob us in which case be their numbers what they would I should resist to the last extremity prefering death to that of being deprived of my papers instruments and gun and desired that they would form the same resolution and be allert and on their guard. when we arrived within a hundred yards of each other the indians except one halted I directed the two men with me to do the same and advanced singly to meet the indian with whom I shook hands and passed on to those in his rear, as he did also to the two men in my rear; we now all assembled and alighted from our horses; the Indians soon asked to smoke with us, but I told them that the man whom they had seen pass down the river had my pipe and we could not smoke untill he joined us. I requested as they had seen which way he went that they would one of them go with one of my men in surch of him, this they readily concented to and a young man set out with R. Fields in surch of Drewyer. I now asked them by sighns if they were the Minnetares of the North which they answered in the affermative; I asked if there was any cheif among them and they pointed out 3 I did not believe them however I thought it best to please them and gave to one a medal to a second a flag and to the third a handkercheif, with which they appeared well satisfyed. they appeared much agitated with our first interview from which they had scarcely yet recovered, in fact I beleive they were more allarmed at this accedental interview than we were. from no more of them appearing I now concluded they were only eight in number and became much better satisfyed with our situation as I was convinced that we could mannage that number should they attempt any hostile measures. as it was growing late in the evening I proposed that we should remove to the nearest part of the river and encamp together, I told them that I was glad to see them and had a great deel to say to them. we mounted our horses and rode towards the river which was at but a short distance, on our way we were joined by Drewyer Fields and the indian. we decended a very steep bluff about 250 feet high to the river where there was a small bottom of nearly 1/2 a mile in length and about 250 yards wide in the widest part, the river washed the bluffs both above and below us and through it's course in this part is very deep; the bluffs are so steep that there are but few places where they could be ascended, and are broken in several places by deep nitches which extend back from the river several hundred yards, their bluffs being so steep that it is impossible to ascend them; in this bottom there stand tree solitary trees near one of which the indians formed a large simicircular camp of dressed buffaloe skins and invited us to partake of their shelter which Drewyer and myself accepted and the Fieldses lay near the fire in front of the sheter. with the assistance of Drewyer I had much conversation with these people in the course of the evening. I learned from them that they were a part of a large band which lay encamped at present near the foot of the rocky mountains on the main branch of Maria's river one 1/2 days march from our present encampment; that there was a whiteman with their band; that there was another large band of their nation hunting buffaloe near the broken mountains and were on there way to the mouth of Maria's river where they would probably be in the course of a few days. they also informed us that from hence to the establishment where they trade on the Suskasawan river is only 6 days easy march or such as they usually travel with their women and childred which may be estimated at about 150 ms. that from these traders they obtain arm amunition sperituous liquor blankets &c in exchange for wolves and some beaver skins. I told these people that I had come a great way from the East up the large river which runs towards the rising sun, that I had been to the great waters where the sun sets and had seen a great many nations all of whom I had invited to come and trade with me on the rivers on this side of the mountains, that I had found most of them at war with their neighbours and had succeeded in restoring peace among them, that I was now on my way home and had left my party at the falls of the missouri with orders to decend that river to the entrance of Maria's river and there wait my arrival and that I had come in surch of them in order to prevail on them to be at peace with their neighbours particularly those on the West side of the mountains and to engage them to come and trade with me when the establishment is made at the entrance of this river to all which they readily gave their assent and declared it to be their wish to be at peace with the Tushepahs whom they said had killed a number of their relations lately and pointed to several of those present who had cut their hair as an evidince of the truth of what they had asserted. I found them extreemly fond of smoking and plyed them with the pipe untill late at night. I told them that if they intended to do as I wished them they would send some of their young men to their band with an invitation to their chiefs and warriors to bring the whiteman with them and come down and council with me at the entrance of Maria's river and that the ballance of them would accompany me to that place, where I was anxious now to meet my men as I had been absent from them some time and knew that they would be uneasy untill they saw me. that if they would go with me I would give them 10 horses and some tobacco. to this proposition they made no reply, I took the first watch tonight and set up untill half after eleven; the indians by this time were all asleep, I roused up R. Fields and laid down myself; I directed Fields to watch the movements of the indians and if any of them left the camp to awake us all as I apprehended they would attampt to seal steal our horses. this being done I fell into a profound sleep and did not wake untill the noise of the men and indians awoke me a little after light in the morning.-
Saturday, July 26, 1806. The morning was cloudy and continued to rain as usual, though the clouds seemed a bit thinner. I postponed setting out until 9 A.M. in hopes it would clear up, but when that didn’t happen, I had the horses caught and we set out, bidding a lasting farewell to this place, which I've come to call Camp Disappointment. I took my route through the open plains southeast for 5 miles, crossing a small creek 2 miles from the mountains. There, I changed my direction to S. 75 E. for another 7 miles and reached a main branch of Maria's River, which was 65 yards wide and not very deep. I crossed to the south side of this stream and continued down it for 2 miles in the same direction, when another branch of nearly the same size joined it from the southwest. This last branch was shallow and fast-flowing, often overflowing its banks and releasing huge torrents of water during certain seasons. The beds of both streams were pebbly, especially the southern branch. The water in the northern branch was very murky, while the southern branch was nearly clear, despite the recent rains. I crossed the southern branch just above its junction and continued down the river, which ran slightly north of east for 1 mile, where I stopped to dine and let our horses graze. Here, I found some Indian lodges that seemed to have been occupied last winter in a large and fertile area well-stocked with cottonwood trees. The undergrowth consisted of rose honeysuckle and redberry bushes, with little willow in this area; both of these rivers above their junction appeared to have a decent amount of timber compared to other parts of this land. Here, I noticed the three types of cottonwood that I've observed during my journey gathered together; the species common to the Columbia I had never seen before on the waters of the Missouri, along with both the narrow and broad-leaved varieties. During our stay here, R. Fields killed a buck, a portion of which we took with us. We also spotted a few antelopes, some wolves, and two small foxes with reddish-brown fur and black-tipped tails, about the size of a domestic cat, which burrowed in the plains. After lunch, I continued my route down the river to the north of east for about 3 miles until the hills closed in on the south side. I decided to climb them to the high plain, which I did, bringing Fields with me; Drewyer crossed the river and followed the valley downstream. I had planned to descend this river following its course to its junction with the fork I had ascended and then cross the land obliquely to Rose River, descending that stream to its confluence with Maria's River. The area through which this part of Maria's River flows to the fork I ascended appeared much more rugged than that above and between this and the mountains. I had barely ascended the hills when I noticed, about a mile to my left, a group of around 30 horses. I paused and used my spyglass, which revealed several Indians on a rise above them, seemingly looking down toward the river, likely at Drewyer. About half of the horses were saddled. This was an unsettling sight, but I resolved to make the best of our situation and approach them amicably. I instructed J. Fields to display the flag I had brought for this purpose and we slowly moved toward them. At that moment, they noticed us and seemed to scatter in a confused manner, apparently alarmed; their focus had been so fixed on Drewyer that they hadn’t realized we were approaching until we started to draw near. Some of them came down the hill and drove their horses close enough for a shot, then returned to the high ground as if waiting for us or preparing to defend themselves. I estimated their numbers were nearly or quite equal to that of their horses; running would invite pursuit, as it would convince them we were enemies, and our horses were so poor that we couldn’t expect to escape by flight. Additionally, Drewyer was separated from us, and I feared if we tried to flee, he might not be aware of the Indians and could easily fall victim. Given these considerations, I continued approaching them. When we got within a quarter of a mile, one of them mounted and charged towards us at full speed. Upon noticing, I stopped and dismounted. He rode within a hundred paces, paused, looked at us, then turned his horse around and quickly returned to his group. While he was close, I stretched out my hand and waved for him to come over, but he ignored my gestures. When he returned to his party, they all came down the hill, mounted their horses, and advanced toward us, leaving their horses behind. We met them halfway. I counted eight, but suspected there were more hidden since several other horses were saddled. I told the two men with me that I believed these were the Minnetarees from Fort de Prairie and that, based on their reputation, we might encounter some difficulties. I presumed if they thought they were strong enough, they might try to rob us. In that case, regardless of their numbers, I would resist to the last moment, preferring death to being stripped of my papers, instruments, and gun. I urged them to adopt the same resolution and stay alert. As we drew within a hundred yards of each other, the Indians, except for one, stopped. I directed my two men to halt as well and approached the Indian who had advanced, shaking his hand and moving on to those behind him, who reciprocated to the two men with me. We all gathered and got off our horses. The Indians soon asked to smoke with us, but I explained that the man they had seen pass down the river had my pipe, so we couldn’t smoke until he returned. I requested that, since they had seen which way he went, one of them should accompany one of my men in search of him. They quickly agreed, and a young man set off with R. Fields to look for Drewyer. I then asked them by signs if they were the Minnetarees from the north, which they confirmed. I inquired if there was a chief among them, and they pointed out three. I didn’t entirely believe them but thought it wise to appease them, so I gave one a medal, a flag to another, and a handkerchief to the third, making them all seem pleased. They appeared quite shaken from our first encounter, and in fact, I believe they were more startled by this accidental meeting than we were. With no more of them appearing, I concluded they were only eight in number, and I felt much better about our situation, convinced we could handle that few if they chose to act aggressively. As it was getting late in the evening, I suggested we move to the nearest part of the river and camp together, telling them I was glad to see them and had a lot to discuss. We mounted our horses and rode toward the river, which was just a short distance away. Along the way, we were joined by Drewyer, Fields, and the Indian. We descended a very steep bluff of about 250 feet to the river, where there was a small flat area nearly half a mile long and about 250 yards wide at its broadest. The river washed the bluffs both above and below us, and in this section, it was very deep; the bluffs were so steep that there were few places to ascend them and were broken in several spots by deep gaps extending back from the river for several hundred yards, making it impossible to climb. In this flat area stood a few solitary trees, and near one, the Indians set up a large semicircular camp of dressed buffalo skins and invited us to share their shelter, which Drewyer and I accepted while the Fieldses lay near the fire in front of the shelter. With Drewyer’s help, I had a lengthy conversation with these people throughout the evening. I learned they were part of a large group camped near the foot of the Rocky Mountains on the main branch of Maria's River, a day's and a half march from our current camp. There was a white man with their group; another large group of their tribe was hunting buffalo near the broken mountains and was headed for the mouth of Maria's River, likely to arrive in a few days. They also informed us that it was just a 6-day easy march from here to the trading post on the Susquehanna River, which can be estimated at about 150 miles. They obtained arms, ammunition, liquor, blankets, etc., from the traders in exchange for wolves and some beaver pelts. I told them that I had traveled a great distance from the East along the large river flowing toward the rising sun, that I had been to the great waters where the sun sets and encountered many nations, all of whom I invited to trade with me along the rivers on this side of the mountains. I explained that I found many of them at war with their neighbors, and I had managed to broker peace among them. I was now on my way home and had left my party at the Missouri falls with orders to descend the river to the entrance of Maria's River and wait for my return. I had come in search of them to persuade them to live peacefully with their neighbors, particularly those on the west side of the mountains, and to encourage them to trade with me once the post was established at the river's entrance. They readily agreed and expressed their desire for peace with the Tshepah, whom they said had recently killed several of their relatives, pointing out some present who had cut their hair as proof of their claims. I found them extremely fond of smoking and indulged them with the pipe until late at night. I told them that if they intended to do as I wished, they should send some of their young men to their group with an invitation for their chiefs and warriors, along with the white man, to come down and meet with me at the mouth of Maria's River while the rest accompanied me to that place. I was eager to meet my men since I’d been away from them for a while, and I knew they’d be anxious until they saw me. I mentioned that if they came with me, I would give them 10 horses and some tobacco. They didn’t respond to this offer. I took the first watch that night and kept watch until half past eleven; by that time, the Indians were all asleep. I woke up R. Fields and laid down myself, directing Fields to keep an eye on the Indians and alert us if any of them left the camp, as I was concerned they might attempt to steal our horses. Once that was settled, I fell into a deep sleep and didn’t awaken until the sounds of men and Indians stirred me shortly after dawn the next morning.
[Lewis, July 27, 1806]
July 27th 1806 Sunday. This morning at day light the indians got up and crouded around the fire, J. Fields who was on post had carelessly laid his gun down behid him near where his brother was sleeping, one of the indians the fellow to whom I had given the medal last evening sliped behind him and took his gun and that of his brothers unperceived by him, at the same instant two others advanced and seized the guns of Drewyer and myself, J. Fields seing this turned about to look for his gun and saw the fellow just runing off with her and his brothers he called to his brother who instantly jumped up and pursued the indian with him whom they overtook at the distance of 50 or 60 paces from the camp sized their guns and rested them from him and R Fields as he seized his gun stabed the indian to the heart with his knife the fellow ran about 15 steps and fell dead; of this I did not know untill afterwards, having recovered their guns they ran back instantly to the camp; Drewyer who was awake saw the indian take hold of his gun and instantly jumped up and sized her and rested her from him but the indian still retained his pouch, his jumping up and crying damn you let go my gun awakened me I jumped up and asked what was the matter which I quickly learned when I saw drewyer in a scuffle with the indian for his gun. I reached to seize my gun but found her gone, I then drew a pistol from my holster and terning myself about saw the indian making off with my gun I ran at him with my pistol and bid him lay down my gun which he was in the act of doing when the Fieldses returned and drew up their guns to shoot him which I forbid as he did not appear to be about to make any resistance or commit any offensive act, he droped the gun and walked slowly off, I picked her up instantly, Drewyer having about this time recovered his gun and pouch asked me if he might not kill the fellow which I also forbid as the indian did not appear to wish to kill us, as soon as they found us all in possession of our arms they ran and indeavored to drive off all the horses I now hollowed to the men and told them to fire on them if they attempted to drive off our horses, they accordingly pursued the main party who were drying the horses up the river and I pursued the man who had taken my gun who with another was driving off a part of the horses which were to the left of the camp, I pursued them so closely that they could not take twelve of their own horses but continued to drive one of mine with some others; at the distance of three hundred paces they entered one of those steep nitches in the bluff with the horses before them being nearly out of breath I could pursue no further, I called to them as I had done several times before that I would shoot them if they did not give me my horse and raised my gun, one of them jumped behind a rock and spoke to the other who turned arround and stoped at the distance of 30 steps from me and I shot him through the belly, he fell to his knees and on his wright elbow from which position he partly raised himself up and fired at me, and turning himself about crawled in behind a rock which was a few feet from him. he overshot me, being bearheaded I felt the wind of his bullet very distinctly. not having my shotpouch I could not reload my peice and as there were two of them behind good shelters from me I did not think it prudent to rush on them with my pistol which had I discharged I had not the means of reloading untill I reached camp; I therefore returned leasurely towards camp, on my way I met with Drewyer who having heared the report of the guns had returned in surch of me and left the Fieldes to pursue the indians, I desired him to haisten to the camp with me and assist in catching as many of the indian horses as were necessary and to call to the Fieldes if he could make them hear to come back that we still had a sufficient number of horses, this he did but they were too far to hear him. we reached the camp and began to catch the horses and saddle them and put on the packs. the reason I had not my pouch with me was that I had not time to return about 50 yards to camp after geting my gun before I was obliged to pursue the indians or suffer them to collect and drive off all the horses. we had caught and saddled the horses and began to arrange the packs when the Fieldses returned with four of our horses; we left one of our horses and took four of the best of those of the indian's; while the men were preparing the horses I put four sheilds and two bows and quivers of arrows which had been left on the fire, with sundry other articles; they left all their baggage at our mercy. they had but 2 guns and one of them they left the others were armed with bows and arrows and eyedaggs. the gun we took with us. I also retook the flagg but left the medal about the neck of the dead man that they might be informed who we were. we took some of their buffaloe meat and set out ascending the bluffs by the same rout we had decended last evening leaving the ballance of nine of their horses which we did not want. the Feildses told me that three of the indians whom they pursued swam the river one of them on my horse. and that two others ascended the hill and escaped from them with a part of their horses, two I had pursued into the nitch one lay dead near the camp and the eighth we could not account for but suppose that he ran off early in the contest. having ascended the hill we took our course through a beatiful level plain a little to the S of East. my design was to hasten to the entrance of Maria's river as quick as possible in the hope of meeting with the canoes and party at that place having no doubt but that they would pursue us with a large party and as there was a band near the broken mountains or probably between them and the mouth of that river we might expect them to receive inteligence from us and arrive at that place nearly as soon as we could, no time was therefore to be lost and we pushed our horses as hard as they would bear. at 8 miles we passed a large branch 40 yds. wide which I called battle river. at 3 P.M. we arrived at rose river about 5 miles above where we h ad passed it as we went out, having traveled by my estimate compared with our former distances and couses about 63 ms. here we halted an hour and a half took some refreshment and suffered our horses to graize; the day proved warm but the late rains had supplyed the little reservors in the plains with water and had put them in fine order for traveling, our whole rout so far was as level as a bowling green with but little stone and few prickly pears. after dinner we pursued the bottoms of rose river but finding inconvenient to pass the river so often we again ascended the hills on the S. W. side and took the open plains; by dark we had traveled about 17 miles further, we now halted to rest ourselves and horses about 2 hours, we killed a buffaloe cow and took a small quantity of the meat. after refreshing ourselves we again set out by moon light and traveled leasurely, heavy thunderclouds lowered arround us on every quarter but that from which the moon gave us light. we continued to pass immence herds of buffaloe all night as we had done in the latter part of the day. we traveled untill 2 OCk in the morning having come by my estimate after dark about 20 ms. we now turned out our horses and laid ourselves down to rest in the plain very much fatiegued as may be readily conceived. my indian horse carried me very well in short much better than my own would have done and leaves me with but little reason to complain of the robery.
July 27th, 1806, Sunday. This morning at dawn, the Indians got up and crowded around the fire. J. Fields, who was on watch, had carelessly laid his gun down behind him near where his brother was sleeping. One of the Indians— the guy to whom I had given the medal last night—slipped behind him and took his gun and his brother's without him noticing. At the same time, two others came forward and grabbed the guns of Drewyer and me. J. Fields saw this, turned around to look for his gun, and saw the guy running off with it and his brother's. He called to his brother, who immediately jumped up and chased the Indian with him. They caught up with him about 50 or 60 paces from the camp, seized their guns back from him, and when R. Fields grabbed his gun, he stabbed the Indian to the heart with his knife. The guy ran about 15 steps and collapsed dead; I didn’t find out about that until later. Having recovered their guns, they rushed back to camp. Drewyer, who was awake, saw the Indian grab his gun and jumped up to seize it back, taking it from him, but the Indian still held his pouch. His shouting, “Damn you, let go of my gun!” woke me up. I jumped up and asked what was happening, quickly learning when I saw Drewyer struggling with the Indian for his gun. I reached for my gun but found it missing, so I drew a pistol from my holster and turned around, seeing the Indian trying to escape with my gun. I ran at him with my pistol and told him to drop my gun, which he was about to do when the Fields brothers returned and aimed their guns to shoot him. I stopped them, as he didn’t seem to be trying to resist or attack us. He dropped the gun and walked away slowly; I immediately picked it up. Around this time, Drewyer had managed to recover his gun and pouch and asked me if he could shoot the guy, which I also stopped him from doing, as the Indian didn’t appear to want to harm us. Once they saw we were all back with our weapons, they ran off, trying to steal our horses. I shouted to the men, telling them to fire if they tried to take our horses. They went after the main group, who were driving the horses up the river, while I chased the man who had taken my gun, who along with another was driving off some of the horses to the left of our camp. I chased them closely enough that they couldn't take twelve of their own horses but kept driving one of mine and a few others. At about three hundred paces, they went into one of those steep ravines in the bluff, and nearly out of breath, I couldn’t follow any further. I called out to them, as I had done several times before, that I would shoot them if they didn’t return my horse and raised my gun. One of them ducked behind a rock and spoke to the other, who turned around and stopped about 30 steps away from me, and I shot him in the belly. He fell to his knees and onto his right elbow, from which position he half-raised himself and fired at me, turning around and crawling behind a rock a few feet away. He missed me; I distinctly felt the wind from his bullet as I was bareheaded. Without my shot pouch, I couldn’t reload my gun, and since there were two of them behind good cover, I didn't think it wise to rush them with my pistol, as I wouldn’t be able to reload until I got back to camp. So, I walked back towards camp leisurely. On my way, I met Drewyer, who, having heard the gunshots, had come back looking for me and left the Fields brothers to track the Indians. I asked him to hurry back to camp with me and help catch as many Indian horses as necessary, and to call to the Fields if he could make them hear us to come back, as we still had enough horses. He did, but they were too far away to hear him. We reached the camp and began to catch the horses, saddle them, and pack them up. The reason I didn't have my pouch with me was that I didn’t have time to go back about 50 yards to camp after grabbing my gun before I had to chase the Indians or let them round up and take all the horses. We had caught and saddled the horses and started to arrange the packs when the Fields brothers returned with four of our horses. We left one of our horses and took four of the best of the Indians’ horses. While the men were preparing the horses, I grabbed four shields and two bows with quivers of arrows that had been left by the fire, along with some other items; they left all their stuff at our mercy. They had only two guns, one of which they left behind; the others were armed with bows, arrows, and knives. We took the gun with us. I also reclaimed the flag but left the medal around the neck of the dead man so they would know who we were. We took some of their buffalo meat and started up the bluffs by the same route we’d come down last night, leaving behind nine of their horses we didn't need. The Fieldses told me that three of the Indians they chased swam across the river, one of them on my horse, and that two others went up the hill and escaped with some of their horses. Two I’d chased into the ravine, one was dead near the camp, and the eighth we couldn’t account for but thought he ran off early in the fight. After climbing the hill, we headed through a beautiful flat plain a little south of east. My goal was to get to the entrance of Maria’s River as quickly as possible, hoping to meet up with the canoes and party there, knowing they would likely pursue us with a larger group. Since there was a band near the broken mountains or possibly between them and the mouth of that river, we expected they would get word from us and arrive at that place almost as fast as we could, so we had to hurry and pushed our horses as hard as they could go. After eight miles, we crossed a large branch 40 yards wide, which I called Battle River. At 3 P.M., we reached Rose River, about five miles above where we’d crossed it on our way out, having traveled an estimated 63 miles compared to our earlier distances and directions. Here, we paused for an hour and a half, took some food, and let our horses graze. The day was warm, but recent rains had filled the small reservoirs in the plains with water, making them nice for travel. Our whole route so far had been as flat as a bowling green, with very little stone and few prickly pears. After lunch, we followed the banks of Rose River but, finding it inconvenient to cross the river so often, we ascended the hills on the southwest side and took the open plains instead. By dark, we had traveled about another 17 miles, so we stopped to rest ourselves and the horses for about two hours. We killed a buffalo cow and took a small amount of meat. After refreshing ourselves, we set off again by moonlight and traveled leisurely. Heavy thunderclouds loomed around us on every side except from where the moon lit our path. We continued to pass immense herds of buffalo all night as we had done earlier in the day. We traveled until 2 O’clock in the morning, estimating that we covered about 20 miles after dark. We then let our horses roam and laid down to rest in the plain, very fatigued as one might imagine. My Indian horse carried me very well—much better than my own would have—and leaves me with little reason to complain about the robbery.
[Lewis, July 28, 1806]
July 28th 1806 Monday. The morning proved fair, I slept sound but fortunately awoke as day appeared, I awaked the men and directed the horses to be saddled, I was so soar from my ride yesterday that I could scarcely stand, and the men complained of being in a similar situation however I encourged them by telling them that our own lives as well as those of our friends and fellow travellers depended on our exertions at this moment; they were allert soon prepared the horses and we again resumed our march; the men proposed to pass the missouri at the grog spring where rose river approaches it so nearly and pass down on the S. W. side, to this I objected as it would delay us almost all day to reach the point by this circuetous rout and would give the enemy time to surprise and cut off the party at the point if they had arrived there, I told them that we owed much to the safety of our friends and that we must wrisk our lives on this occasion, that I should proceed immediately to the point and if the party had not arrived that I would raft the missouri a small distance above, hide our baggage and march on foot up the river through the timber untill I met the canoes or joined them at the falls; I now told them that it was my determination that if we were attacked in the plains on our way to the point that the bridles of the horses should be tied together and we would stand and defend them, or sell our lives as dear as we could. we had proceeded about 12 miles on an East course when we found ourselves near the missouri; we heared a report which we took to be that of a gun but were not certain; still continuing down the N. E. bank of the missouri about 8 miles further, being then within five miles of the grog spring we heared the report of several rifles very distinctly on the river to our right, we quickly repared to this joyfull sound and on arriving at the bank of the river had the unspeakable satisfaction to see our canoes coming down. we hurried down from the bluff on which we were and joined them striped our horses and gave them a final discharge imbrarking without loss of time with our baggage. I now learned that they had brought all things safe having sustaned no loss nor met with any accident of importance. Wiser had cut his leg badly with a knife and was unable in consequence to work. we decended the river opposite to our principal cash which we proceeded to open after reconnoitering the adjacent country. we found that the cash had caved in and most of the articles burried therin were injured; I sustained the loss of two very large bear skins which I much regret; most of the fur and baggage belonging to the men were injured. the gunpowder corn flour poark and salt had sustained but little injury the parched meal was spoiled or nearly so. having no time to air these things which they much wanted we droped down to the point to take in the several articles which had been buried at that place in several small cashes; these we found in good order, and recovered every article except 3 traps belonging to Drewyer which could not be found. here as good fortune would have it Sergt. Gass and Willard who brought the horses from the falls joined us at 1 P.M. I had ordered them to bring down the horses to this place in order to assist them in collecting meat which I had directed them to kill and dry here for our voyage, presuming that they would have arrived with the perogue and canoes at this place several days before my return. having now nothing to detain us we passed over immediately to the island in the entrance of Maria's river to launch the red perogue, but found her so much decayed that it was impossible with the means we had to repare her and therefore mearly took the nails and other ironwork's about her which might be of service to us and left her. we now reimbarked on board the white peroge and five small canoes and decended the river about 15 ms. and encamped on the S. W. side near a few cottonwood trees, one of them being of the narrow leafed speceis and was the first of that kind which we had remarked on our passage up the river. we encamped late but having little meat I sent out a couple of hunters who soon returned with a sufficient quantity of the flesh of a fat cow. there are immence quantities of buffaloe and Elk about the junction of the Missouri and Maria's rivers.—during the time we halted at the er.crance of Maria's river we experienced a very heavy shower of rain and hail attended with violent thunder and lightning.
July 28th, 1806, Monday. The morning was nice, and I slept well but luckily woke up as dawn broke. I got the men up and had the horses saddled. I felt so sore from my ride yesterday that I could barely stand, and the men said they felt the same way. However, I encouraged them by reminding them that our lives, as well as those of our friends and fellow travelers, depended on our efforts at that moment. They were alert and soon had the horses ready, and we set off again. The men suggested crossing the Missouri at Grog Spring, where Rose River gets close to it, and then heading southwest. I disagreed, saying it would take almost all day to reach that point by that roundabout route and could give the enemy a chance to ambush us if they were already at the crossing. I told them we owed it to our friends' safety to take risks and said I would head straight to the point. If the party hadn’t arrived, I’d raft across the Missouri a short distance upstream, hide our gear, and then walk along the river through the trees until I met up with the canoes or joined them at the falls. I told them that if we were attacked on our way there, the bridles of the horses should be tied together, and we would defend them or fight back fiercely. We had traveled about 12 miles east when we found ourselves near the Missouri. We heard what we thought was a gunshot but couldn’t be sure. Continuing down the northeast bank of the Missouri for about 8 more miles, and only five miles from Grog Spring, we distinctly heard several rifle shots from the river on our right. We quickly prepared for this joyful sound, and upon reaching the riverbank, we were immensely satisfied to see our canoes approaching. We hurried down from the bluff and joined them, stripped our horses, and loaded them up without wasting any time with our belongings. I learned that they had safely brought everything with no major losses or accidents. Wiser had badly cut his leg with a knife and couldn’t work because of it. We descended the river across from our main cache, which we began to open after scouting the area. We found that the cache had caved in, and most of the items buried there were damaged; I regretted losing two large bear skins. Most of the fur and the men’s gear were also damaged. The gunpowder, cornmeal, pork, and salt had little harm, but the parched meal was ruined or nearly so. With no time to air these items, which badly needed it, we continued down to the point to gather the various items buried there in smaller caches. We found everything in good condition and recovered all except for three traps belonging to Drewyer, which were missing. Here, as luck would have it, Sergeant Gass and Willard, who had brought the horses from the falls, joined us at 1 PM. I had instructed them to bring the horses to help collect meat that I had told them to kill and dry for our journey, thinking they would arrive with the perogue and canoes several days before I got back. Now that nothing held us back, we immediately crossed over to the island at the mouth of Maria’s River to launch the red perogue, but it was so rotten that we couldn’t fix it with what we had. So, we just took the nails and other iron parts that could be helpful and left it behind. We then reboarded the white perogue and five small canoes, descending the river for about 15 miles and camping on the southwest side near a few cottonwood trees, one of which had narrow leaves—a type we hadn’t seen on our way up the river. We set up camp late, but since we had little meat, I sent out a couple of hunters who soon came back with enough meat from a fat cow. There are huge numbers of buffalo and elk around the junction of the Missouri and Maria’s rivers. While we were at the entrance of Maria’s River, we experienced a heavy downpour of rain and hail, accompanied by severe thunder and lightning.
[Lewis, July 29, 1806]
Tuesday July 29th 1806. Shortly after dark last evening a violent storm came on from N. W. attended with rain hail Thunder and lightning which continued the greater part of the night. no having the means of making a shelter I lay in the water all night. the rain continued with but little intermission all day. I intend halting as soon as the weather proves fair in order to dry our baggage which much wants it. I placed the two Fieldses and Colter and Collins in the two smallest canoes with orderes to hunt, and kill meat for the party and obtain as many Elkskins as are necessary to cover our canoes and furnish us with shelters from the rain. we set out early and the currant being strong we proceeded with great rapidity. at 11 A.M. we passed that very interesting part of the Missouri where the natural walls appear, particularly discribed in my outward bound journey. we continued our rout untill late in the evening and encamped on the N. E. side of the river at the same place we had encamped on the 29th of May 1805. on our way today we killed 9 bighorns of which I preserved the skins and skeletons of 2 females and one male; the flesh of this aninmal is extreemly delicate tender and well flavored, they are now in fine order. their flesh both in colour and flavor much resembles mutton though it is not so strong as our mutton. the eye is large and prominant, the puple of a pale sea green and iris of a light yellowish brown colour. these animals abound in this quarter keeping themselves principally confined to the steep clifts and bluffs of the river. we saw immence hirds of buffaloe in the high plains today on either hand of the river. saw but few Elk. the brown Curloo has left the plains I presume it has raised it's young and retired to some other climate and country. as I have been very particular in my discription of the country as I ascended this river I presume it is unnecesssesary here to add any-thing further on that subject. the river is now nearly as high as it has been this season and is so thick with mud and sand that it is with difficulty I can drink it. every little rivulet now discharges a torrant of water bringing down immece boddies of mud sand and filth from the plains and broken bluffs.-
Tuesday, July 29th, 1806. Shortly after dark last night, a violent storm came up from the northwest, bringing rain, hail, thunder, and lightning, which lasted most of the night. Without any means of shelter, I lay in the water all night. The rain continued with little break throughout the day. I plan to stop as soon as the weather clears to dry our gear, which really needs it. I put the two Fieldses, Colter, and Collins in the two smallest canoes with orders to hunt and gather meat for the group and get as many elk skins as necessary to cover our canoes and provide us with shelter from the rain. We set out early, and with the strong current, we moved quickly. By 11 A.M., we passed that very interesting part of the Missouri where the natural walls appear, which I described in detail during my outbound journey. We continued on our route until late in the evening and camped on the northeast side of the river at the same spot where we had camped on May 29th, 1805. On our way today, we killed nine bighorns, of which I preserved the skins and skeletons of two females and one male; the meat of this animal is extremely delicate, tender, and flavorful, and they are now in great condition. Their flesh, both in color and flavor, closely resembles mutton, although it's not as strong as our mutton. The eye is large and prominent, with a pale sea green pupil and a light yellowish-brown iris. These animals are abundant in this area, mainly keeping to the steep cliffs and bluffs of the river. We saw immense herds of buffalo on the high plains on either side of the river but spotted only a few elk. The brown curlew has left the plains; I assume it has raised its young and moved to a different climate and region. Since I have been very specific in my descriptions of the country as I traveled up this river, I think it's unnecessary to add anything further on that topic. The river is now nearly as high as it has been this season and is so thick with mud and sand that it's difficult to drink it. Every little stream is now pouring down torrents of water, carrying immense amounts of mud, sand, and debris from the plains and broken bluffs.
[Lewis, July 30, 1806]
Wednesday July 30th 1806. The rain still continued this morning it was therefore unnecessary to remain as we could not dry our baggage I Consequently set out early as usual and pursued my rout downwards. the currant being strong and the men anxious to get on they plyed their oars faithfully and we went at the rate of about seven miles an hour. we halted several times in the course of the day to kill some bighorns being anxious to procure a few more skins and skeletons of this animal; I was fortunate enough to procure one other malle and female for this purpose which I had prepared accordingly. seven others were killed by the party also 2 buffaloe one Elk 2 beaver with & a female brown bear with tallons 61/4 inches in length. I preserved the skin of this bear also with the tallons; it was not large and in but low order. we arrived this evening at an island about 2 ms. above Goodriches Island and encamped on it's N. E. side. the rain continued with but little intermission all day; the air is cold and extreemly disagreeable. nothing extraordinary happened today
Wednesday, July 30th, 1806. The rain continued this morning, so it was pointless to stay since we couldn’t dry our gear. I set out early as usual and followed my route downstream. The current was strong, and the men were eager to move on, so they rowed diligently, and we traveled at about seven miles an hour. We stopped several times throughout the day to hunt some bighorns, hoping to get a few more skins and skeletons of this animal. I was lucky enough to get one male and one female for this purpose, which I prepared accordingly. Seven others were killed by the team, along with two buffalo, one elk, two beavers, and a female brown bear with claws 6 1/4 inches long. I also preserved the skin of this bear and its claws; it wasn’t large and in pretty rough shape. We arrived this evening at an island about 2 miles above Goodrich’s Island and set up camp on its northeast side. The rain kept up with only brief breaks all day; the air was cold and extremely unpleasant. Nothing extraordinary happened today.
[Lewis, July 31, 1806]
Thursday July 31st 1806. The rain still continuing I set out early and proceeded on as fast as possible. at 9 A.M. we fell in with a large herd of Elk of which we killed 15 and took their skins. the bottoms in the latter part of the day became wider better timbered and abound in game. the party killed 14 deer in the course of the day without attempting to hunt but little for them. we also killed 2 bighorns and 1 beaver; saw but few buffaloe. the river is still rising and excessively muddy more so I think than I ever saw it. we experienced some very heavy showers of rain today. we have been passing high pine hills all day. late in the evening we came too on the N. E. side of the river and took sheter in some indian lodges built of sticks, about 8 ms. below the entrance of North mountain creek. these lodges appeared to have been built in the course of the last winter. these lodges with the addition of some Elk skins afforded us a good shelter from the rain which continued to fall powerfully all night. I think it probable that the minnetares of Fort de Prarie visit this part of the river; we meet with their old lodges in every bottom.-
Thursday, July 31, 1806. The rain continued, so I left early and moved as quickly as I could. At 9 A.M., we came across a large herd of elk, from which we killed 15 and took their skins. Later in the day, the bottoms became wider, better wooded, and full of game. The group managed to kill 14 deer without really trying to hunt them. We also killed 2 bighorn sheep and 1 beaver, but we saw only a few buffalo. The river is still rising and extremely muddy, more than I think I’ve ever seen. We had some heavy rain showers today. We’ve been passing high pine hills all day. Late in the evening, we stopped on the northeast side of the river and found shelter in some Indian lodges made of sticks, about 8 miles below the entrance of North Mountain Creek. These lodges seemed to have been built last winter. With some elk skins added, they provided good protection from the rain that kept pouring down all night. I think it's likely that the Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie visit this part of the river; we find their old lodges in every bottom.
[Lewis, August 1, 1806]
Friday August 1st 1806. The rain still continuing I set out early as usual and proceeded on at a good rate. at 9 A.M. we saw a large brown bear swiming from an island to the main shore we pursued him and as he landed Drewyer and myself shot and killed him; we took him on board the perogue and continued our rout. at 11 A.M. we passed the entrance of Mussel shell river. at 1 in the evening we arrived at a bottom on S. W. side where there were several spacious Indian lodges built of sticks and an excellent landing. as the rain still continued with but little intermission and appearances seemed unfavorable to it's becomeing fair shortly, I determined to halt at this place at least for this evening and indeavour to dry my skins of the bighorn which had every appearance of spoiling, an event which I would not should happen on any consideration as we have now passed the country in which they are found and I therefore could not supply the deficiency were I to loose these I have. I halted at this place being about 15 ms. below Missel shell river, had fires built in the lodges and my skins exposed to dry. shortly after we landed the rain ceased tho it still continued cloudy all this evening. a white bear came within 50 paces of our camp before we perceived it; it stood erect on it's hinder feet and looked at us with much apparent unconsern, we seized our guns which are always by us and several of us fired at it and killed it. it was a female in fine order, we fleesed it and extracted several gallons of oil. this speceis of bar are rearly as poor at this season of the year as the common black bear nor are they ever as fat as the black bear is found in winter; as they feed principally on flesh, like the wolf, they are most fatt when they can procure a sufficiency of food without rispect to the season of the year. the oil of this bear is much harder than that of the black bear being nearly as much so as the lard of a hog. the flesh is by no means as agreeable as that of the black bear, or Yahkah or partycoloured bear of the West side of the rocky mountains. on our way today we killed a buck Elk in fine order the skins and a part of the flesh of which we preserved. after encamping this evening the hunters killed 4 deer and a beaver. The Elk are now in fine order particularly the males. their horns have obtained their full growth but have not yet shed the velvet or skin which covers them. the does are found in large herds with their young and a few young bucks with them. the old bucks yet herd together in parties of two to 7 or 8.-
Friday, August 1st, 1806. The rain continued, so I set out early as usual and made good progress. At 9 A.M., we spotted a large brown bear swimming from an island to the main shore. We chased it, and as it landed, Drewyer and I shot and killed it. We took it on board the canoe and continued on our route. At 11 A.M., we passed the entrance of Mussel Shell River. By 1 P.M., we arrived at a flat area on the southwest side where there were several spacious Indian lodges made of sticks and a great spot to land. Since the rain persisted with little break and it didn’t look like it would clear up anytime soon, I decided to stop here for the evening and try to dry my bighorn skins, which were at risk of spoiling. I definitely did not want that to happen since we have now passed through the area where they are found, and I wouldn’t be able to replace them if I lost what I had. I halted about 15 miles below Mussel Shell River, had fires built in the lodges, and laid out my skins to dry. Shortly after we landed, the rain stopped, although it remained cloudy all evening. A white bear came within 50 paces of our camp before we noticed it; it stood upright on its hind legs and looked at us with apparent indifference. We grabbed our guns, which are always close by, and several of us fired at it, killing it. It was a female in great condition, and we skinned it and collected several gallons of oil. This type of bear is rarely as lean at this time of year as the common black bear, nor are they ever as fat as the black bear is during winter. As they primarily eat flesh, like wolves, they are at their fattest when they can find enough food, regardless of the season. The oil from this bear is much harder than that of the black bear, nearly as solid as hog lard. The meat is definitely not as tasty as that of the black bear or the Yahkah or party-colored bear found west of the Rocky Mountains. On our way today, we also killed a buck elk in great condition, preserving its skin and some of the meat. After setting up camp this evening, the hunters killed four deer and a beaver. The elk are in excellent condition right now, especially the males. Their horns have fully grown but have not yet shed the velvet covering. The females are found in large herds with their young, along with a few young bucks. The older bucks tend to group together in pairs or small groups of 7 or 8.
[Lewis, August 2, 1806]
Saturday August 2cd 1806. The morning proved fair and I determined to remain all day and dry the baggage and give the men an opportunity to dry and air their skins and furr. had the powder parched meal and every article which wanted drying exposed to the sun. the day proved warm fair and favourable for our purpose. I permitted the Fieldses to go on a few miles to hunt. by evening we had dryed our baggage and repacked it in readiness to load and set out early in the morning. the river fell 18 inches since yesterday evening. the hunters killed several deer in the course of the day. nothing remarkable took place today. we are all extreemly anxious to reach the entrance of the Yellowstone river where we expect to join Capt. Clark and party.
Saturday, August 2, 1806. The morning was nice, and I decided to stay all day to dry the baggage and give the men a chance to dry and air their skins and fur. I had the powder, parched meal, and everything else that needed drying out in the sun. The day turned out warm, nice, and ideal for our purpose. I allowed the Fieldses to go a few miles to hunt. By evening, we had dried our baggage and repacked it, getting ready to load up and set out early in the morning. The river has dropped 18 inches since last night. The hunters managed to kill several deer during the day. Nothing noteworthy happened today. We're all extremely eager to reach the entrance of the Yellowstone River, where we expect to meet Capt. Clark and his party.
[Lewis, August 3, 1806]
Saturday August 3rd 1806. I arrose early this morning and had the perogue and canoes loaded and set out at half after 6 A.M. we soon passed the canoe of Colter and Collins who were on shore hunting, the men hailed them but received no answer we proceeded, and shortly after overtook J. and R. Fields who had killed 25 deer since they left us yesterday; deer are very abundant in the timbered bottoms of the river and extreemly gentle. we did not halt today to cook and dine as usual having directed that in future the party should cook as much meat in the evening after encamping as would be sufficient to serve them the next day; by this means we forward our journey at least 12 or 15 miles Pr. day. we saw but few buffaloe in the course of this day, tho a great number of Elk, deer, wolves, some bear, beaver, geese a few ducks, the party coloured covus, one Callamet Eagle, a number of bald Eagles, redheaded woodpeckers &c. we encamped this evening on N. E. side of the river 2 ms. above our encampment of the 12th of May 1805 soon after we encamp Drewyer killed a fat doe. the Fieldses arrived at dark with the flesh of two fine bucks, besides which they had killed two does since we passed them making in all 29 deer since yesterday morning. Collins and Colter did not overtake us this evening.
Saturday, August 3rd, 1806. I got up early this morning and had the canoe and perogue loaded, setting out at 6:30 A.M. We quickly passed by Colter and Collins, who were onshore hunting; the men called out to them but didn’t get a response, so we moved on and soon caught up with J. and R. Fields, who had killed 25 deer since they left us yesterday. Deer are very plentiful in the river’s timbered bottoms and extremely tame. We didn’t stop today for cooking and lunch as usual; instead, I instructed the group to prepare enough meat in the evening after setting up camp to last them for the next day. This way, we can advance our journey by at least 12 or 15 miles per day. We saw few buffalo today, although there were many elk, deer, wolves, some bears, beavers, geese, and a few ducks. The group spotted colorful coveys, one Callamet eagle, several bald eagles, red-headed woodpeckers, etc. We set up camp this evening on the northeast side of the river, 2 miles upstream from our camp of May 12, 1805. Shortly after we arrived, Drewyer shot a fat doe. The Fieldses got back at night with the meat from two excellent bucks and, in total, had killed two does since we last saw them, making it 29 deer since yesterday morning. Collins and Colter did not catch up with us this evening.
[Lewis, August 4, 1806]
Monday August 4th 1806. Set out at 4 A.M. this morning. permited Willard and Sergt. Ordway to exchange with the Feildses and take their small canoe to hunt to-day. at 1/2 after eleven O'Ck. passed the entrance of big dry river; found the water in this river about 60 yds. wide tho shallow. it runs with a boald even currant. at 3 P.M. we arrived at the entrance of Milk river where we halted a few minutes. this stream is full at present and it's water is much the colour of that of the Missouri; it affords as much water at present as Maria's river and I have no doubt extends itself to a considerable distance North. during our halt we killed a very large rattlesnake of the speceis common to our country. it had 176 scuta on the abdomen and 25 on the tail, it's length 5 feet. the scutae on the tail fully formed. after passing this river we saw several large herds of buffaloe and Elk we killed one of each of these animals and took as much of the flesh as we wished. we encamped this evening two miles below the gulph on the N. E. side of the river. Tonight for the first time this season I heard the small whippoorwill or goatsucker of the Missouri cry. Colter and Collins have not yet overtaken us. Ordway and Willard delayed so much time in hunting today that they did not overtake us untill about midnight. they killed one bear and 2 deer. in passing a bend just below the gulph it being dark they were drawn by the currant in among a parsel of sawyers, under one of which the canoe was driven and throwed Willard who was steering overboard; he caught the sawyer and held by it; Ordway with the canoe drifted down about half a mile among the sawyers under a falling bank, the canoe struck frequently but did not overset; he at length gained the shore and returned by land to learn the fate of Willard whom he found was yet on the sawyer; it was impossible for him to take the canoe to his relief Willard at length tied a couple of sticks together which had lodged against the sawyer on which he was and set himself a drift among the sawyers which he fortunately escaped and was taken up about a mile below by Ordway with the canoe; they sustained no loss on this occasion. it was fortunate for Willard that he could swim tolerably well.
Monday, August 4th, 1806. We set out at 4 A.M. this morning. I allowed Willard and Sergeant Ordway to switch places with the Fields family and take their small canoe to hunt today. At 11:30 A.M., we passed the entrance of the big dry river; the water in this river was about 60 yards wide but shallow. It flows with a bold, steady current. By 3 P.M., we reached the entrance of Milk River and stopped for a few minutes. This stream is currently full, and its water is similar in color to that of the Missouri; it currently provides as much water as Maria's River, and I’m sure it extends quite far to the north. During our break, we killed a very large rattlesnake common to our region. It had 176 scales on its belly and 25 on its tail, stretching 5 feet long. The scales on the tail were fully developed. After passing this river, we saw several large herds of buffalo and elk; we killed one of each and took as much meat as we wanted. We set up camp this evening two miles below the gulf on the northeast side of the river. Tonight, for the first time this season, I heard the small whippoorwill or goatsucker of the Missouri call. Colter and Collins have not yet caught up with us. Ordway and Willard took so long hunting today that they didn’t catch up with us until about midnight. They killed one bear and two deer. As they were going around a bend just below the gulf in the dark, they got pulled by the current into some snags, and under one of them, the canoe tipped, throwing Willard, who was steering, overboard. He grabbed onto the snag and held on. Ordway and the canoe drifted down about half a mile among the snags under a crumbling bank, hitting frequently but not capsizing. Eventually, Ordway made it to shore and went back on land to check on Willard, whom he found still on the snag; it was impossible for him to take the canoe to help. Willard eventually tied a couple of sticks together that had lodged against the snag he was on and managed to drift among the snags, fortunately escaping and was picked up about a mile downstream by Ordway with the canoe; they didn’t lose anything in this incident. It was lucky for Willard that he could swim reasonably well.
[Lewis, August 5, 1806]
Tuesday August 5th 1806. Colter and Collins not having arrived induced me to remain this morning for them. the hunters killed four deer this morning near our encampment. I remained untill noon when I again reimbarked and set out concluding that as Colter and Collins had not arrived by that time that they had passed us after dark the night of the 3rd inst. as Sergt Ordway informed me he should have done last evening had not the centinel hailed him. we continued our rout untill late in the evening when I came too and encamped on the South side about 10 miles below little dry river. on our way we killed a fat cow and took as much of the flesh as was necessary for us. The Feildses killed 2 large bear this evening one of them measured nine feet from the extremity of the nose to that of his tail, this is the largest bear except one that I have seen. we saw several bear today as we passed but did not kill any of them. we also saw on our way immence herds of buffaloe & Elk, many deer Antelopes, wolves, geese Eagles &c. but few ducks or prarie hens. the geese cannot fly at present; I saw a solitary Pillacon the other day in the same situation. this happens from their sheding or casting the fathers of the wings at this season.
Tuesday, August 5, 1806. Colter and Collins still hadn't arrived, so I decided to stay this morning for them. The hunters took down four deer near our camp. I waited until noon, then got back on the boat and set off, figuring that since Colter and Collins hadn’t shown up by that time, they must have passed us after dark on the night of the 3rd, as Sergeant Ordway told me he would have done last night if the sentinel hadn’t called out to him. We kept moving until late in the evening when I stopped and set up camp on the south side, about 10 miles below Little Dry River. Along the way, we killed a fat cow and took as much meat as we needed. The Fieldses took down two large bears this evening, with one measuring nine feet from nose to tail; this is the largest bear I’ve seen except for one. We spotted several bears today as we passed but didn’t kill any of them. We also saw immense herds of buffalo and elk, many deer, antelopes, wolves, geese, eagles, etc., but only a few ducks or prairie hens. The geese can’t fly right now; I saw a lone pelican in the same state the other day. This happens from them losing their wing feathers at this time of year.
[Lewis, August 6, 1806]
Wednesday August 6th 1806. A little after dark last evening a violent storm arrose to the N. E. and shortly after came on attended with violent Thunder lightning and some hail; the rain fell in a mere torrant and the wind blew so violently that it was with difficulty I could have the small canoes unloaded before they filled with water; they sustained no injury. our situation was open and exposed to the storm. in attending to the canoes I got wet to the skin and having no shelter on land I betook myself to the orning of the perogue which I had, formed of Elkskin, here I obtained a few hours of broken rest; the wind and rain continued almost all night and the air became very cold. we set out early this morning and decended the river about 10 miles below Porcupine river when the wind became so violent that I laid by untill 4 P.M. the wind then abaiting in some measure we again resumed our voyage, and decended the river about 5 miles below our encampment of the 1st of May 1805 where we halted for the night on the S. W. side of the river. after halting we killed three fat cows and a buck. we had previously killed today 4 deer a buck Elk and a fat cow. in short game is so abundant and gentle that we kill it when we please. the Feildses went on ahead this evening and we did not overtake them. we saw several bear in the course of the day.
Wednesday, August 6th, 1806. A little after dark last evening, a violent storm came up from the northeast, bringing with it intense thunder, lightning, and some hail. The rain fell in torrents, and the wind blew so fiercely that I struggled to unload the small canoes before they filled with water; thankfully, they suffered no damage. Our situation was open and exposed to the storm. While attending to the canoes, I got soaked to the skin, and with no shelter on land, I took refuge in the bow of the canoe I had, made of elk skin. Here, I managed to get a few hours of broken rest; the wind and rain continued almost all night, and the air grew very cold. We set out early this morning and traveled down the river about 10 miles below Porcupine River, when the wind became so strong that I had to stop until 4 PM. When the wind finally eased up a bit, we resumed our journey and descended the river about 5 miles below our campsite from May 1, 1805, where we stopped for the night on the southwest side of the river. After stopping, we killed three fat cows and a buck. Earlier today, we had already killed 4 deer, a buck elk, and a fat cow. In short, game is so abundant and easy to find that we can take it whenever we want. The Fieldses went on ahead this evening, and we didn't catch up with them. We saw several bears throughout the day.
[Lewis, August 7, 1806]
Thursday August 7th 1806. It began to rain about midnight and continued with but little intermission until 10 A.M. today. the air was cold and extreemly unpleasant. we set out early resolving if possible to reach the Yelowstone river today which was at the distance of 83 ms. from our encampment of the last evening; the currant favoured our progress being more rapid than yesterday, the men plyed their oars faithfully and we went at a good rate. at 8 A.M. we passed the entrance of Marthy's river which has changed it's entrance since we passed it last year, falling in at preasent about a quarter of a mile lower down. at or just below the entrance of this river we meet with the first appearance of Coal birnt hills and pumicestone, these appearances seem to be coextensive. here it is also that we find the first Elm and dwarf cedar on the bluffs, the ash first appears in the instance of one solletary tree at the Ash rapid, about the Elk rapid and from thence down we occasionly meet with it scattered through the bottoms but it is generally small. from Marthy's river to Milk river on the N. E. side there is a most beautifull level plain country; the soil is much more fertile here than above. we overtook the Feildses at noon. they had killed 2 bear and seen 6 others, we saw and fired on two from our perogue but killed neither of them. these bear resort the river where they lie in wate at the crossing places of the game for the Elk and weak cattle; when they procure a subject of either they lie by the carcase and keep the wolves off untill they devour it. the bear appear to be very abundant on this part of the river. we saw a number of buffaloe Elk &c as we passed but did not detain to kill any of them. we also saw an unusual flight of white gulls about the size of a pigeon with the top of their heads black. at 4 P.M. we arrived at the entrance of the Yellowstone river. I landed at the point and found that Capt. Clark had been encamped at this place and from appearances had left it about 7 or 8 days. I found a paper on a pole at the point which mearly contained my name in the hand wrighting of Capt. C. we also found the remnant of a note which had been attatched to a peace of Elk's horns in the camp; from this fragment I learned that game was scarce at the point and musquetoes troublesome which were the reasons given for his going on; I also learnt that he intended halting a few miles below where he intended waiting my arrival. I now wrote a note directed to Colter and Collins provided they were behind, ordering them to come on without loss of time; this note I wraped in leather and attatced onto the same pole which Capt. C. had planted at the point; this being done I instantly reimbarked and decended the river in the hope of reaching Capt. C's camp before night. about 7 miles below the point on the S. W. shore I saw some meat that had been lately fleased and hung on a pole; I directed Sergt. Ordway to go on shore examine the place; on his return he reported that he saw the tracks of two men which appeared so resent that he beleived they had been there today, the fire he found at the plce was blaizing and appeared to have been mended up afresh or within the course of an hour past. he found at this place a part of a Chinnook hat which my men recognized as the hat of Gibson; from these circumstances we included that Capt. C's camp could not be distant and pursued our rout untill dark with the hope of reaching his camp in this however we were disappointed and night coming on compelled us to encamp on the N. E. shore in the next bottom above our encampment of the 23rd and 24th of April 1805. as we came too a herd of buffaloe assembled on the shore of which we killed a fat cow.-
Thursday, August 7, 1806. It started to rain around midnight and didn't stop, with only a little break, until 10 A.M. today. The air was cold and extremely unpleasant. We set out early, hoping to reach the Yellowstone River today, which was 83 miles from our campsite from last night. The current helped our progress, moving faster than yesterday; the men worked hard at their oars, and we made good time. At 8 A.M., we passed the entrance of Marthy's River, which has changed its mouth since we passed by last year, now falling in about a quarter of a mile lower down. Here, at or just below the river's entrance, we encountered the first signs of coal-burned hills and pumice stone, which seemed to be extensive. This is also where we found the first elm and dwarf cedar on the bluffs; the ash tree first appeared as a solitary tree at the Ash Rapid, about the Elk Rapid, and after that, we occasionally spotted it scattered in the lowlands, but it was generally small. From Marthy's River to the Milk River on the northeast side, there is a beautiful level plain, and the soil here is much more fertile than above. We caught up with the Fieldses at noon. They had killed 2 bears and spotted 6 others; we saw and fired at two from our canoe but didn't manage to kill either. These bears frequent the river, lying in wait at crossing points for the elk and weak cattle; when they catch one, they stay by the carcass and fend off the wolves until they eat it. There seem to be plenty of bears along this part of the river. We saw several buffalo, elk, etc., as we passed, but we didn't stop to hunt any. We also noticed an unusual flock of white gulls, about the size of pigeons, with black on the tops of their heads. At 4 P.M., we arrived at the entrance of the Yellowstone River. I landed at the point and discovered that Captain Clark had camped here and had left about 7 or 8 days ago. I found a paper on a pole at the point that only had my name written on it in Captain C.'s handwriting. We also discovered the remnants of a note that had been attached to a piece of elk horns in the camp; from this fragment, I learned that game was scarce at the point and that mosquitoes were a problem, which were the reasons given for his departure. I also learned that he planned to wait a few miles downstream for my arrival. I then wrote a note addressed to Colter and Collins, if they were behind, urging them to come without delay; I wrapped this note in leather and attached it to the same pole that Captain C. had planted at the point. Once that was done, I quickly reboarded and traveled down the river in hopes of reaching Captain C.'s camp before nightfall. About 7 miles downstream on the southwest shore, I spotted some meat that had recently been skinned and hung on a pole; I instructed Sergeant Ordway to go ashore and check the area. Upon his return, he reported seeing the tracks of two men that looked so fresh that he believed they had been there today. The fire he found at the site was blazing and seemed to have been stoked recently, or within the last hour. He found part of a Chinook hat that my men recognized as belonging to Gibson; from these signs, we concluded that Captain C.'s camp couldn't be far away and continued on our route until dark, hoping to reach his camp. However, we were disappointed, and as night arrived, we had to camp on the northeast shore in the bottom above our campsite from April 23rd and 24th, 1805. As we stopped, we came across a herd of buffalo gathered on the shore, where we killed a fat cow.
[Lewis, August 8, 1806]
Friday August 8th 1806. Beleiving from the recent appearances about the fire which we past last evening that Capt Clark could be at no great distance below I set out early; the wind heard from the N. E. but by the force of the oars and currant we traveled at a good rate untill 10 A.M. by which time we reached the center of the beaver bends about 8 ms. by water and 3 by land above the entrance of White earth river. not finding Capt. Clark I knew not what calculation to make with rispect to his halting and therefore determined to proceed as tho he was not before me and leave the rest to the chapter of accedents. at this place I found a good beach for the purpose of drawing out the perogue and one of the canoes which wanted corking and reparing. the men with me have not had leasure since we left the West side of the Rocky mountains to dress any skins or make themselves cloaths and most of them are therefore extreemly bare. I therefore determined to halt at this place untill the perogue and canoe could be repared and the men dress skins and make themselves the necessary cloathing. we encamped on the N. E. side of the river; we found the Musquetoes extreemly troublesome but in this rispect there is but little choise of camps from hence down to St. Louis. from this place to the little Missouri there is an abundance of game I shall therefore when I leave this place travel at my leasure and avail myself of every opportunity to collect and dry meat untill I provide a sufficient quantity for our voyage not knowing what provision Capt C. has made in this rispect. I formed a camp unloaded the canoes and perogue, had the latter and one of the canoes drawn out to dry, fleased what meat we had collected and hung it on poles in the sun, after which the men busied themselves in dressing skins and making themselves cloaths. Drewyer killed 2 Elk and a deer this evening. the air is cold yet the Musquetoes continue to be troublesome.-
Friday, August 8th, 1806. Believing from the recent signs of fire we passed last evening that Captain Clark couldn't be too far below, I set out early. The wind was coming from the northeast, but thanks to the strength of the oars and the current, we traveled at a good pace until 10 A.M. By that time, we reached the center of the beaver bends, about 8 miles by water and 3 miles by land above the entrance of White Earth River. Not finding Captain Clark, I wasn't sure what to expect regarding his stop, so I decided to proceed as though he wasn't ahead of me and leave the rest to chance. At this location, I found a good beach for pulling out the pirogue and one of the canoes that needed corking and repairs. The men with me hadn't had a chance since we left the west side of the Rocky Mountains to prepare any skins or make themselves clothes, so most of them are pretty bare. Therefore, I decided to stay here until the pirogue and canoe could be repaired, and the men could dress skins and make the necessary clothing. We set up camp on the northeast side of the river. The mosquitoes were extremely bothersome, but there's not much choice for camps from here to St. Louis. From this point to the Little Missouri, there’s plenty of game, so I plan to take my time when I leave here and make the most of every opportunity to collect and dry meat until I have enough for our journey, not knowing what provisions Captain Clark has made in that regard. I set up a camp, unloaded the canoes and pirogue, had the latter and one canoe pulled out to dry, processed what meat we had collected, and hung it on poles to dry in the sun. After that, the men busied themselves with dressing skins and making clothes. Drewyer killed two elk and a deer this evening. The air is cold, yet the mosquitoes continue to be a nuisance.
[Lewis, August 9, 1806]
Saturday August 9th 1806. The day proved fair and favourable for our purposes. the men were all engaged dressing skins and making themselves cloathes except R & J. Fields whom I sent this morning over the river with orders to proceed to the entrance of the White earth river in surch of Capt. C. and to hunt and kill Elk or buffaloe should they find any convenient to the river. in the evening these men returned and informed me that they saw no appearance of Capt. Clark or party. they found no game nor was there a buffaloe.to be seen in the plains as far as the eye could reach. nothing remarkable took place in the course of the day. Colter and Collins have not yet overtaken us I fear some missfortune has happened them for their previous fidelity and orderly deportment induces me to beleive that they would not thus intentionally delay. the Perogue is not yet sufficiently dry for reparing. we have no pitch and will therefore be compelled to use coal and tallow.
Saturday, August 9th, 1806. The day turned out to be clear and favorable for our tasks. The men were all busy processing skins and making clothes, except for R & J. Fields, whom I sent this morning across the river with instructions to head to the mouth of the White Earth River in search of Capt. C. and to hunt and kill elk or buffalo if they found any near the river. In the evening, these men returned and informed me that they saw no sign of Capt. Clark or his group. They found no game, and there wasn't a buffalo in sight on the plains as far as the eye could see. Nothing notable happened throughout the day. Colter and Collins have not caught up with us yet; I worry that something unfortunate has happened to them, as their previous loyalty and orderly behavior lead me to believe they wouldn’t intentionally delay. The perogue is not yet dry enough for repairs. We have no pitch, so we will have to use coal and tallow instead.
[Lewis, August 10, 1806]
Sunday August 10th 1806. The morning was somewhat cloudy I therefore apprehended rain however it shortly after became fair. I hastened the repairs which were necessary to the perogue and canoe which were compleated by 2 P.M. those not engaged about this business employed themselves as yester-day. at 4 in the evening it clouded up and began to rain which puting a stop to the opperation of skindressing we had nothing further to detain us, I therefore directed the vessels to be loaded and at 5 P.M. got under way the wind has blown very hard all day but did not prove so much so this evening as absolutely to detain us. we decended this evening as low nearly as the entrance of white Earth river and encamped on the S. W. side. the musquetoes more than usually troublesome this evening.
Sunday, August 10th, 1806. The morning was a bit cloudy, so I feared rain; however, it cleared up shortly after. I hurried to finish the repairs needed for the perogue and canoe, which were completed by 2 P.M. Those not involved in this work occupied themselves as they did yesterday. At 4 in the evening, it became cloudy again and started to rain, which halted the skin-dressing operation. Without anything else to keep us, I ordered the vessels to be loaded, and by 5 P.M. we set off. The wind had been strong all day but lessened enough this evening not to hold us back. We traveled downriver this evening almost to the entrance of White Earth River and set up camp on the southwest side. The mosquitoes were particularly bothersome tonight.
[Lewis, August 11, 1806]
Monday August 11th 1806. We set out very early this morning. it being my wish to arrive at the birnt hills by noon in order to take the latitude of that place as it is the most northern point of the Missouri, enformed the party of my design and requested that they would exert themselves to reach the place in time as it would save us the delay of nearly one day; being as anxious to get forward as I was they plyed their oars faithfully and we proceeded rapidly. I had instructed the small canoes that if they saw any game on the river to halt and kill it and follow on; however we saw but little game untill about 9 A.M. when we came up with a buffaloe swiming the river which I shot and killed; leaving the small canoes to dress it and bring on the meat I proceeded. we had gone but little way before I saw a very large grizzly bear and put too in order to kill it, but it took wind of us and ran off. the small canoes overtook us and informed that the flesh of the buffaloe was unfit for uce and that they had therefore left it half after 11 A.M. we saw a large herd of Elk on the N. E. shore and I directed the men in the small canoes to halt and kill some of them and continued on in the perogue to the birnt hills; when I arrived here it was about 20 minutes after noon and of course the observation for the O's meridian Altitude was lost; jus opposite to the birnt hills there happened to be a herd of Elk on a thick willow bar and finding that my observation was lost for the present I determined to land and kill some of them accordingly we put too and I went out with Cruzatte only. we fired on the Elk I killed one and he wounded another, we reloaded our guns and took different routs through the thick willows in pursuit of the Elk; I was in the act of firing on the Elk a second time when a ball struck my left thye about an inch below my hip joint, missing the bone it passed through the left thye and cut the thickness of the bullet across the hinder part of the right thye; the stroke was very severe; I instantly supposed that Cruzatte had shot me in mistake for an Elk as I was dressed in brown leather and he cannot see very well; under this impression I called out to him damn you, you have shot me, and looked towards the place from whence the ball had come, seeing nothing I called Cruzatte several times as loud as I could but received no answer; I was now preswaded that it was an indian that had shot me as the report of the gun did not appear to be more than 40 paces from me and Cruzatte appeared to be out of hearing of me; in this situation not knowing how many indians there might be concealed in the bushes I thought best to make good my retreat to the perogue, calling out as I ran for the first hundred paces as loud as I could to Cruzatte to retreat that there were indians hoping to allarm him in time to make his escape also; I still retained the charge in my gun which I was about to discharge at the moment the ball struck me. when I arrived in sight of the perogue I called the men to their arms to which they flew in an instant, I told them that I was wounded but I hoped not mortally, by an indian I beleived and directed them to follow me that I would return & give them battle and releive Cruzatte if possible who I feared had fallen into their hands; the men followed me as they were bid and I returned about a hundred paces when my wounds became so painfull and my thye so stiff that I could scarcely get on; in short I was compelled to halt and ordered the men to proceed and if they found themselves overpowered by numbers to retreat in order keeping up a fire. I now got back to the perogue as well as I could and prepared my self with a pistol my rifle and air-gun being determined as a retreat was impracticable to sell my life as deerly as possible. in this state of anxiety and suspense remained about 20 minutes when the party returned with Cruzatte and reported that there were no indians nor the appearance of any; Cruzatte seemed much allarmed and declared if he had shot me it was not his intention, that he had shot an Elk in the willows after he left or seperated from me. I asked him whether he did not hear me when I called to him so frequently which he absolutely denied. I do not beleive that the fellow did it intentionally but after finding that he had shot me was anxious to conceal his knowledge of having done so. the ball had lodged in my breeches which I knew to be the ball of the short rifles such as that he had, and there being no person out with me but him and no indians that we could discover I have no doubt in my own mind of his having shot me. with the assistance of Sergt. Gass I took off my cloaths and dressed my wounds myself as well as I could, introducing tents of patent lint into the ball holes, the wounds blead considerably but I was hapy to find that it had touched neither bone nor artery. I sent the men to dress the two Elk which Cruzatte and myself had killed which they did in a few minutes and brought the meat to the river. the small canoes came up shortly after with the flesh of one Elk. my wounds being so situated that I could not without infinite pain make an observation I determined to relinquish it and proceeded on. we came within eight miles of our encampment of the 15th of April 1805 and encamped on N. E. side. as it was painfull to me to be removed I slept on board the perogue; the pain I experienced excited a high fever and I had a very uncomfortable night. at 4 P.M. we passed an encampment which had been evacuated this morning by Capt. Clark, here I found a note from Capt. C. informing me that he had left a letter for me at the entrance of the Yelow stone river, but that Sergt. Pryor who had passed that place since he left it had taken the letter; that Sergt. Pryor having been robed of all his horses had decended the Yelowstone river in skin canoes and had over taken him at this encampment. this I fear puts an end to our prospects of obtaining the Sioux Cheifs to accompany us as we have not now leasure to send and enjage Mr. Heney on this service, or at least he would not have time to engage them to go as early as it is absolutely necessary we should decend the river.
Monday, August 11th, 1806. We set out very early this morning. I wanted to reach the burnt hills by noon to take the latitude of that place, as it is the most northern point of the Missouri. I informed the party of my plan and asked them to do their best to reach the place on time, as it would save us nearly a whole day of delay. Since they were just as eager to move forward as I was, they rowed hard, and we made good progress. I had instructed the small canoes that if they saw any game on the river, they should stop, take it down, and then catch up with us; however, we didn’t see much until around 9 A.M. when we spotted a buffalo swimming in the river, which I shot and killed. I left the small canoes to dress it and bring the meat while I continued on. We hadn’t gone far before I saw a very large grizzly bear and stopped to try to shoot it, but it caught our scent and ran off. The small canoes caught up with us and informed me that the buffalo meat was unusable, so they had left it behind around 11:30 A.M. We then saw a large herd of elk on the northeast shore, and I directed the men in the small canoes to stop and hunt some of them while I continued on to the burnt hills. When I arrived, it was about 20 minutes past noon, and unfortunately, I lost the chance for the observation of the local meridian altitude. Just across from the burnt hills, a herd of elk happened to be on a thick willow bar, and since my observation was lost for the moment, I decided to land and shoot some of them. So, we stopped, and I went out with Cruzatte only. We fired at the elk; I killed one, and he wounded another. We reloaded our guns and took different paths through the thick willows in pursuit of the elk. I was about to shoot at the elk a second time when a bullet struck my left thigh just below my hip joint, missing the bone, but passing through the thigh and cutting across the back of the right thigh. The impact was very intense; I immediately thought Cruzatte had shot me by mistake for an elk since I was dressed in brown leather and he doesn’t see very well. Under that impression, I yelled at him, “Damn you, you shot me!” and looked toward where the bullet had come from, but saw nothing. I called for Cruzatte several times as loud as I could, but got no response; now I was convinced that it was an Indian who had shot me, as the gunshot sounded like it was no more than 40 paces away. Cruzatte seemed to be out of my hearing range. In that situation, not knowing how many Indians might be hiding in the bushes, I thought it best to retreat to the pirogue, calling out as I ran for the first hundred paces as loudly as I could to Cruzatte to retreat because there were Indians, hoping to alert him in time for both of us to escape. I still had the charge in my gun, which I was about to fire when the bullet struck me. When I arrived in sight of the pirogue, I called for the men to grab their weapons, and they jumped up instantly. I told them that I was wounded, but I hoped it wasn’t fatal, and I thought it was an Indian who did it. I instructed them to follow me, saying I would go back and confront them and try to help Cruzatte, who I feared had been captured. The men followed my orders, and I went back about a hundred paces when the pain from my wound became so intense and my thigh so stiff that I could barely move on. In short, I had to stop and ordered the men to proceed and to retreat if they found themselves outnumbered, while keeping fire. I managed to get back to the pirogue as best as I could and armed myself with a pistol, my rifle, and an air gun, determined to defend myself, as retreat was impractical. I stayed in this anxious state for about 20 minutes when the party returned with Cruzatte and reported that there were no Indians or signs of any. Cruzatte looked very alarmed and insisted that if he had shot me, it wasn’t intentional; he said he shot an elk in the willows after separating from me. I asked him if he didn’t hear me calling him so often, which he absolutely denied. I don’t believe he did it on purpose, but I think after realizing he had shot me, he wanted to hide that he knew it. The bullet had lodged in my pants, which I recognized as the type from the short rifles like his. Since there was no one else out with me except him and no Indians that we could see, I am convinced that he shot me. With the help of Sergeant Gass, I took off my clothes and dressed my wounds as best as I could, putting pieces of patent lint into the bullet holes. The wounds bled a lot, but I was relieved to find that it hadn’t touched any bones or arteries. I sent the men to dress the two elk that Cruzatte and I had killed, which they did in just a few minutes and brought the meat to the river. The small canoes came up shortly after with the flesh of one elk. Since my wounds were in such a way that I couldn’t make an observation without extreme pain, I decided to give that up and continue on. We came within eight miles of our camp from April 15, 1805, and set up camp on the northeast side. Since it was painful for me to be moved, I slept on board the pirogue; the pain caused a high fever, and I had a very uncomfortable night. At 4 P.M., we passed a campsite that Captain Clark had left that morning; there I found a note from Captain Clark informing me that he had left a letter for me at the entrance of the Yellowstone River, but Sergeant Pryor, who passed that place after he left, had taken the letter. Sergeant Pryor, having lost all his horses, had descended the Yellowstone River in skin canoes and caught up with him at this campsite. I fear this ends our chances of getting the Sioux chiefs to accompany us as we don’t now have the time to send and engage Mr. Heney for this task, or at least he wouldn’t have time to convince them to go as early as we must descend the river.
[Lewis, August 12, 1806]
Thursday August 12th 1806. Being anxious to overtake Capt. Clark who from the appearance of his camps could be at no great distance before me, we set out early and proceeded with all possible expedition at 8 A.M. the bowsman informed me that there was a canoe and a camp he beleived of whitemen on the N. E. shore. I directed the perogue and canoes to come too at this place and found it to be the camp of two hunters from the Illinois by name Joseph Dickson and Forest Hancock. these men informed me that Capt. C. had passed them about noon the day before. they also informed me that they had left the Illinois in the summer 1804 since which time they had been ascended the Missouri, hunting and traping beaver; that they had been robed by the indians and the former wounded last winter by the Tetons of the birnt woods; that they had hitherto been unsuccessfull in their voyage having as yet caught but little beaver, but were still determined to proceed. I gave them a short discription of the Missouri, a list of distances to the most conspicuous streams and remarkable places on the river above and pointed out to them the places where the beaver most abounded. I also gave them a file and a couple of pounds of powder with some lead. these were articles which they assured me they were in great want of. I remained with these men an hour and a half when I took leave of them and proceeded. while I halted with these men Colter and Collins who seperated from us on the 3rd ist. rejoined us. they were well no accedent having happened. they informed me that after proceeding the first day and not overtaking us that they had concluded that we were behind and had delayed several days in waiting for us and had thus been unable to join us untill the present momet. my wounds felt very stiff and soar this morning but gave me no considerable pain. there was much less inflamation than I had reason to apprehend there would be. I had last evening applyed a poltice of peruvian barks at 1 P.M. I overtook Capt. Clark and party and had the pleasure of finding them all well. as wrighting in my present situation is extreemly painfull to me I shall desist untill I recover and leave to my frind Capt. C. the continuation of our journal. however I must notice a singular Cherry which is found on the Missouri in the bottom lands about the beaverbends and some little distance below the white earth river. this production is not very abundant even in the small tract of country to which it seems to be confined. the stem is compound erect and subdivided or branching without any regular order it rises to the hight of eight or ten feet seldom puting up more than one stem from the same root not growing in cops as the Choke Cherry dose. the bark is smooth and of a dark brown colour. the leaf is peteolate, oval accutely pointed at it's apex, from one and a 1/4 to 11/2 inches in length and from 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch in width, finely or minutely serrate, pale green and free from bubessence. the fruit is a globular berry about the size of a buck-shot of a fine scarlet red; like the cherries cultivated in the U States each is supported by a seperate celindric flexable branch peduncle which issue from the extremities of the boughs the peduncle of this cherry swells as it approahes the fruit being largest at the point of insertion. the pulp of this fruit is of an agreeable ascid flavour and is now ripe. the style and stigma are permanent. I have never seen it in blume.
Thursday, August 12th, 1806. Wanting to catch up with Capt. Clark, who I suspected wasn’t far ahead based on the signs of his camps, we set off early and moved as quickly as we could. At 8 A.M., the bowsman told me there was a canoe and a camp that he believed belonged to white men on the northeast shore. I ordered the perogue and canoes to stop there and discovered it was the camp of two hunters from Illinois named Joseph Dickson and Forest Hancock. They told me that Capt. Clark had passed them around noon the day before. They also said they had left Illinois in the summer of 1804 and had since been traveling up the Missouri, hunting and trapping beaver. They reported being robbed by Native Americans, with one of them getting injured last winter by the Tetons in a burnt area. They had not been successful in their journey, having caught very little beaver so far, but they were still determined to continue. I gave them a brief description of the Missouri, a list of distances to the most notable streams and landmarks on the river ahead, and pointed out the areas where beaver were most abundant. I also gave them a file, a couple of pounds of powder, and some lead, which they told me they really needed. I stayed with them for an hour and a half before saying goodbye and moving on. While I was with them, Colter and Collins, who had separated from us on the 3rd, rejoined us. They were well, with no accidents having occurred. They explained that after not catching up with us the first day, they assumed we were behind and waited several days for us, which delayed their joining us until now. My wounds felt stiff and sore this morning, but there was much less inflammation than I had feared. Last evening, I applied a poultice of Peruvian barks. At 1 P.M., I caught up with Capt. Clark and his party and was pleased to find them all well. Since writing is extremely painful for me right now, I’ll stop until I recover and let my friend Capt. Clark continue the journal. However, I must mention a unique cherry found on the Missouri in the bottomlands around the beaver bends and a bit downstream from the White Earth River. This cherry isn’t very common, even in the small area where it seems to grow. The stem is compound, upright, and branches irregularly, rising to about eight or ten feet, usually producing only one stem from the same root, unlike the choke cherry, which grows in thickets. The bark is smooth and dark brown. The leaf is petiolate, oval, sharply pointed at the tip, ranging from 1 and 1/4 to 1 and 1/2 inches in length and 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch in width, finely serrated, pale green, and free from any pubescence. The fruit is a round berry, about the size of a buckshot, and a bright scarlet red; like the cherries grown in the U.S., each fruit is attached to a separate, cylindrical, flexible stem that extends from the ends of the branches. The stem of this cherry swells as it approaches the fruit, being largest where it connects. The pulp has a pleasant acidic flavor and is now ripe. The style and stigma are permanent. I have never seen it in bloom.
[Clark, July 3, 1806]
Thursday July 3rd 1806 we colected our horses and after brackfast I took My leave of Capt Lewis and the indians and at 8 A M Set out with ____ men interpreter Shabono & his wife & child (as an interpreter & interpretess for the Crow Inds and the latter for the Shoshoni) with 50 horses. we proceeded on through the Vally of Clarks river on the West Side of the river nearly South 18 Miles and halted on the upper Side of a large Creek, haveing Crossed 8 Streams 4 of which were Small. this vally is from 10 to 15 Ms. in width tolerably leavel and partially timberd with long leaf & pitch pine, Some cotton wood, Birch, and Sweet willow on the borders of the Streams. I observed 2 Species of Clover in this vally one the white Clover Common in the Western parts of the U. States, the other Species which is much Smaller than either the red or white both it's leaf & blossom the horses are excessively fond of this Species. after letting our horses graze a Sufficient length of time to fill themselves, and taking dinner of Venison we again resumed our journey up the Vally which we found more boutifully versified with Small open plains covered with a great variety of Sweet cented plants, flowers & grass. this evening we Crossed 10 Streams 8 of which were large Creeks which comes roleing their Currents with Velocity into the river. those Creeks take their rise in the mountains to the West which mountains is at this time Covered with Snow for about 1/5 of the way from their tops downwards. Some Snow is also to be Seen on the high points and hollows of the Mountains to the East of us. our Course this evening was nearly South 18 Ms. makeing a total of 36 miles today. we encamped on the N. Side of a large Creek where we found tolerable food for our horses. Labeish killed a Deer this evening. We Saw great numbers of deer and 1 bear today. I also observed the burring Squirel of the Species Common about the quawmarsh flatts West of the Rocky Mountains. Musquetors very troublesom.—one man Jo. Potts very unwell this evening owing to rideing a hard trotting horse; I give him a pill of Opiom which Soon releve him.
Thursday, July 3, 1806, we gathered our horses and after breakfast, I said goodbye to Capt. Lewis and the Indians. At 8 AM, I set out with ____ men, interpreter Shabono, his wife and child (acting as interpreters for the Crow Indians and the latter for the Shoshoni) with 50 horses. We moved along the valley of Clark's River on the west side of the river, heading nearly south for 18 miles and stopped on the upper side of a large creek after crossing 8 streams, 4 of which were small. This valley stretches from 10 to 15 miles in width, is fairly flat, and has some timber, including longleaf and pitch pine, along with some cottonwood, birch, and sweet willow by the stream banks. I noted 2 species of clover in this valley: one is white clover, common in the western parts of the U.S., and the other species, which is much smaller than either red or white clover, including both its leaves and flowers, is a favorite of the horses. After allowing our horses to graze for a good amount of time to fill themselves and having dinner of venison, we resumed our journey up the valley, which we found to be more richly varied with small open plains covered in a great variety of sweet-scented plants, flowers, and grass. This evening we crossed 10 streams, 8 of which were large creeks flowing quickly into the river. These creeks originate in the mountains to the west, which are currently covered with snow about one-fifth of the way down from the tops. Some snow is also visible on the high points and hollows of the mountains to the east of us. Our course this evening was nearly south for 18 miles, making a total of 36 miles today. We camped on the north side of a large creek where we found decent food for our horses. Labeish killed a deer this evening. We saw numerous deer and 1 bear today. I also noticed the burrowing squirrel, a species common in the quagmire flats west of the Rocky Mountains. The mosquitoes were very bothersome. One man, Jo. Potts, was feeling very unwell this evening due to riding a hard-trotting horse; I gave him a pill of opium, which soon relieved him.
[Clark, July 4, 1806]
Friday July 4th 1806 I order three hunters to Set out early this morning to hunt & kill Some meat and by 7 A.M. we Collected our horses took braekfast and Set out proceeded on up the Vally on the West Side of Clarks river crossing three large deep and rapid Creeks, and two of a Smaller Size to a Small branch in the Spurs of the mountain and dined. the last Creek or river which we pass'd was So deep and the water So rapid that Several of the horses were Sweped down Some distance and the Water run over Several others which wet Several articles. after Crossing this little river, I observed in the road the tracks of two men whome I prosume is of the Shoshone nation. our hunters joined us with 2 deer in tolerable order. on the Side of the Hill near the place we dined Saw a gange of Ibex or big horn Animals I Shot at them running and missed. This being the day of the decleration of Independence of the United States and a Day commonly Scelebrated by my Country I had every disposition to Selebrate this day and therefore halted early and partook of a Sumptious Dinner of a fat Saddle of Venison and Mush of Cows (roots) after Dinner we proceeded on about one mile to a very large Creek which we assended Some distance to find a foard to cross in crossing this creek Several articles got wet, the water was So Strong, alto the debth was not much above the horses belly, the water passed over the backs and loads of the horses. those Creeks are emensely rapid has great decnt the bottoms of the Creek as well as the low lands on each Side is thickly covered with large Stone after passing this Creek I inclined to the left and fell into the road on which we had passed down last fall near the place we had dined on the 7th of Sept. and continued on the road passing up on the W. Side of Clarks river 13 miles to the West fork of Sd. river and Encamped on an arm of the same I Sent out 2 men to hunt, and 3 in Serch of a foard to pass the river. at dark they all returned and reported that they had found a place that the river might be passed but with Some risque of the loads getting wet I order them to get up their horses and accompany me to those places &c. our hunters killed 4 deer to day. we made 30 ms. to day on a course nearly South Vally from 8 to 10 mes. wide. contains a good portion of Pitch pine. we passed three large deep rapid Creeks this after noon
Friday, July 4th, 1806: I ordered three hunters to head out early this morning to hunt and gather some meat. By 7 A.M., we collected our horses, had breakfast, and set off, proceeding up the valley on the west side of Clark's River. We crossed three large, deep, and fast-flowing creeks, along with two smaller ones, until we reached a small branch at the foot of the mountain, where we stopped for lunch. The last creek we crossed was so deep and the water so swift that several horses were swept downstream for some distance, and the water rushed over a few others, soaking several items. After crossing this little river, I noticed tracks on the road made by two men, whom I assume belong to the Shoshone Nation. Our hunters joined us with two deer in decent condition. On the hillside near where we dined, I spotted a group of ibex or big horn animals. I took a shot at them while they were running but missed. Since today marks the anniversary of the Declaration of Independence of the United States, a day typically celebrated in my country, I felt inclined to commemorate the occasion. So I stopped early and enjoyed a sumptuous dinner of a fat saddle of venison and mush of cows (roots). After dinner, we moved on about a mile to a very large creek, which we ascended for some distance to find a ford to cross. While crossing this creek, several items got wet; the water was so strong, even though the depth was not much above the horses' bellies, the water flowed over the backs and loads of the horses. These creeks are extremely fast-moving with significant descent, and both the bottoms of the creeks and the lowlands on either side are thickly covered with large stones. After crossing this creek, I veered to the left and found the road we had taken last fall near the spot where we dined on September 7th. We continued on the road, traveling 13 miles along the west side of Clark's River to the west fork of the same river, and set up camp on a branch of it. I sent out two men to hunt and three searching for a ford to cross the river. At dark, they all returned and reported that they had found a spot where the river could be crossed, but there was some risk of the loads getting wet. I ordered them to gather up their horses and join me at that location. Our hunters killed four deer today. We covered 30 miles today, heading nearly south through a valley that is 8 to 10 miles wide and contains a good portion of pitch pine. We crossed three large, deep, fast-flowing creeks this afternoon.
[Clark, July 5, 1806]
Saturday July 5th 1806 I rose at day light this morning despatched Labeash after a Buck which he killed late last evening; and I with the three men who I had Sent in Serch of a ford across the West fork of Clarks river, and examined each ford neither of them I thought would answer to pass the fork without wetting all the loads. near one of those places pointed out by Colter I found a practiable foard and returned to Camp, ordered everything packed up and after Brackfast we Set out passed 5 Chanels of the river which is divided by Small Islands in passing the 6th & last Chanel Colter horse Swam and with Some dificuelty he made the Opposite Shore, Shannon took a different derection from Colter rained his horse up the Stream and passed over very well I derected all to follow Shannon and pass quartering up the river which they done and passed over tolerably well the water running over the back of the 2 Smaller horses only. unfortunately my trunk & portmantue Containing Sea otter Skins flags Some curiosites & necessary articles in them got wet, also an esortment of Medicine, and my roots. about 1 mile we struk the East fork which had fallen and was not higher than when we passed it last fall we had not proceeded up this fork more than 1 mile eer we struck the road by which we passed down last fall and kept it at one mile we crossed the river at a very good foard and continued up on the East Side to the foot of the Mountain nearly opposite flour Crek & halted to let our horses graze and dry our wet articles. I saw fresh Sign of 2 horses and a fire burning on the side of the road. I prosume that those indians are spies from the Shoshones. Shannon & Crusat killed each a deer this morning and J. Shields killed a female Ibex or bighorn on the side of the Mountain, this Animal was very meager. Shannon left his tomahawk at the place he killed his deer. I derect him to return for it and join me in the Vally on the East Side of this mountain. gave Shields permission to proceed on over to the 1st Vally and there hunt untill my arival this evening at that place, after drying every article which detained us untill 1/2 past 4 P.M. we packed up and Crossed the Mountain into the vally where we first met with the flatheads here I overtook Shields he had not killed any thing. I crossed the river which heads in a high peecked mountain Covered with Snow N. E. of the Vally at about 20 Miles. Shields informed me that the Flat head indians passed up the Small Creek which we came down last fall about 2 miles above our Encampment of the 4th & 5th of, Septr. I proceeded up this South branch 2 Miles and encamped on the E. side of the Creek, and Sent out several men to examine the road. Shields returned at dark and informed me that the best road turned up the hill from the creek 3 Miles higher up, and appeared to be a plain beaten parth. as this rout of the Oat lash shoots can be followed it will evidently Shorten our rout at least 2 days and as the indians informed me last fall a much better rout than the one we came out. at all events I am deturmined to make the attempt and follow their trail if possible if I can prosue it my rout will be nearer and much better than the one we Came from the Shoshones, & if I should not be able to follow their road; our rout can't possibly be much wors. The hunters killed two deer this evening. The after part of the day we only come 8 miles makeing a total of 20 Miles-. Shannon Came up about Sunset haveing found his tomahawk.
Saturday, July 5th, 1806: I got up at dawn this morning and sent Labeash after a buck that he killed late last night. I went with the three men I had sent to look for a ford across the West Fork of Clark's River and checked each one, but I didn't think any of them would work without getting all the loads wet. Near one of the spots Colter had pointed out, I found a usable ford and returned to camp. I ordered everything to be packed up, and after breakfast, we set out. We passed five channels of the river, which is divided by small islands. As we crossed the sixth and last channel, Colter's horse swam across with some difficulty, and he made it to the opposite shore. Shannon took a different route, guiding his horse upstream and crossed over quite well. I directed everyone to follow Shannon and cross at an angle upstream, which they did, and they crossed fairly well, with water running over the backs of the two smaller horses only. Unfortunately, my trunk and portmanteau, which contained sea otter skins, flags, some curiosities, and necessary items, got wet, along with an assortment of medicine and my roots. About a mile in, we hit the East Fork, which had dropped and wasn't higher than when we passed it last fall. We hadn’t gone more than a mile up this fork when we found the road we had used last fall and stuck to it for a mile. We crossed the river at a very good ford and continued up the east side to the base of the mountain, nearly opposite Flour Creek, and stopped to let our horses graze and dry our wet things. I saw fresh tracks of two horses and a fire burning by the side of the road. I assume those must be spies from the Shoshones. Shannon and Crusat each killed a deer this morning, and J. Shields killed a female ibex or bighorn on the side of the mountain; this animal was quite lean. Shannon left his tomahawk at the spot where he killed his deer. I told him to go back for it and meet me in the valley on the east side of this mountain. I gave Shields permission to head over to the first valley and hunt there until I arrived this evening. After drying every item, which held us up until 4:30 PM, we packed up and crossed the mountain into the valley where we first encountered the Flatheads. Here, I caught up with Shields, who hadn't killed anything. I crossed the river that starts in a high, jagged mountain covered with snow, northeast of the valley about 20 miles away. Shields told me the Flathead Indians went up the small creek we descended last fall, about two miles above our camp from the 4th and 5th of September. I went up this south branch for two miles and camped on the east side of the creek, sending several men out to scout the road. Shields returned at dark and told me that the best road turned up the hill from the creek three miles higher up and seemed to be a well-beaten path. As this route through the Oat Lash Shoots can be followed, it will obviously shorten our route by at least two days, and according to what the Indians told me last fall, it’s a much better route than the one we took. In any case, I am determined to try and follow their trail if possible. If I can pursue it, my route will be shorter and significantly better than the one we took from the Shoshones, and if I can't follow their road, our route can't possibly be much worse. The hunters got two deer this evening. By the end of the day, we had only covered eight miles, making a total of 20 miles. Shannon arrived around sunset after finding his tomahawk.
[Clark, July 6, 1806]
Sunday 6th July 1806 Some frost this morning the last night was so cold that I could not Sleep. we Collected our horses which were much scattered which detained us untill 9 A.M. at which time we Set out and proceeded up the Creek on which we camped 3 Miles and left the road which we came on last fall to our right and assended a ridge with a gentle Slope to the dividing mountain which Seperates the waters from the Middle fork of Clarks river from those and Lewis's river and passed over prosueing the rout of the Oat lash shute band which we met last fall to the head of a branch of Wisdom R and down the Said branch crossing it frequently on each Side of this handsom glades in which I observe great quantities of quawmash just beginning to blume on each side of those glades the timber is small and a great propotion of it Killed by the fires. I observe the appearance of old buffalow roads and some heads on this part of the mountain. The Snow appears to lying in considerable masses on the mountain from which we decended on the 4th of Septr. last. I observe great numbers of the whistleing Squirel which burrows their holes Scattered on each Side of the glades through which we passed. Shields killed a hare of the large mountain Species. the after part of the day we passed on the hill Side N of the Creek for 6 Ms. Creek and entered an extensive open Leavel plain in which the Indian trail Scattered in Such a manner that we Could not pursue it. the Indian woman wife to Shabono informed me that she had been in this plain frequently and knew it well that the Creek which we decended was a branch of Wisdom river and when we assended the higher part of the plain we would discover a gap in the mountains in our direction to the Canoes, and when we arived at that gap we would See a high point of a mountain covered with snow in our direction to the canoes. we proceeded on 1 mile and Crossd. a large Creek from the right which heads in a Snow Mountain and Fish Creek over which there was a road thro a gap. we assended a Small rise and beheld an open boutifull Leavel Vally or plain of about 20 Miles wide and near 60 long extending N & S. in every direction around which I could see high points of Mountains Covered with Snow. I discovered one at a distance very high covered with Snow which bore S. 80° E. The Squar pointed to the gap through which she said we must pass which was S. 56° E. She said we would pass the river before we reached the gap. we had not proceeded more than 2 Miles in the last Creek, before a violent Storm of wind accompand. with hard rain from the S W. imediately from off the Snow Mountains this rain was Cold and lasted 11/2 hours. I discovd. the rain wind as it approached and halted and formd. a solid column to protect our Selves from the Violency of the gust. after it was over I proceeded on about 5 Miles to Some Small dry timber on a Small Creek and encampd. made large fires and dryed our Selves. here I observed Some fresh Indian Signs where they had been gathering quawmash.
Sunday, July 6, 1806 It was a frosty morning; last night was so cold that I couldn’t sleep. We gathered our horses, which were scattered all over, delaying us until 9 A.M. At that time, we headed out and traveled up the creek where we camped, moving three miles and leaving the road we came on last fall to our right. We climbed a ridge with a gentle slope to the dividing mountain that separates the waters from the Middle Fork of Clark's River from those of Lewis's River, then continued to follow the route of the Oat Lash Shute band that we met last fall to the head of a branch of Wisdom River. We went down that branch, crossing it frequently on both sides of these beautiful glades where I noticed lots of quawmash just starting to bloom. On either side of the glades, the timber is small, and a large portion of it was killed by fires. I noticed the traces of old buffalo paths and some skulls in this part of the mountain. Snow is still lying in considerable amounts on the mountain we descended on September 4th of last year. I saw many whistling squirrels that have burrows scattered on both sides of the glades we passed through. Shields shot a large mountain hare. In the afternoon, we traveled six miles along the hillside north of the creek and entered a vast open level plain where the Indian trail was scattered in such a way that we couldn’t follow it. An Indian woman, the wife of Shabono, told me she had been in this plain often and knew it well. She said that the creek we descended was a branch of Wisdom River, and when we got to the higher part of the plain, we would see a gap in the mountains leading toward the canoes. When we reached that gap, we would see a high mountain covered with snow in the direction of the canoes. We went on for a mile and crossed a large creek from the right, which heads in a snow-capped mountain, and Fish Creek, where there was a road through a gap. We climbed a small rise and saw an open, beautiful level valley or plain about 20 miles wide and nearly 60 miles long extending north and south. In every direction around me, I could see high mountain peaks blanketed with snow. I spotted one very high peak in the distance, covered with snow, bearing S. 80° E. The squaw pointed to the gap she said we needed to pass through, which was S. 56° E. She said we would cross the river before reaching the gap. We hadn’t traveled more than two miles down the last creek when a violent storm of wind and heavy rain came from the southwest, directly off the snow-covered mountains. This cold rain lasted an hour and a half. I noticed the rain and wind approaching, so I stopped and formed a solid column to protect ourselves from the intensity of the gusts. Once it was over, I continued on about five miles to some small dry timber on a small creek where we set up camp, made big fires, and dried ourselves. Here, I noticed some fresh Indian signs where they had been gathering quawmash.
[Clark, July 7, 1806]
Monday 7th July 1806 This morning our horses were very much Scattered; I Sent out men in every direction in Serch of them. they brought all except 9 by 6 oClock and informed me that they could not find those 9. I then ordered 6 men to take horses and go different directions and at a greater distance those men all returned by 10 A.M. and informed me that they had circles in every direction to 6 or 8 miles around Camp and could not See any Signs of them, that they had reasons to believe that the indians had Stolen them in the course of the night, and founded their reasons on the quallity of the horses, all being the most valuable horses we had, and Several of them so attached to horses of inferior quallity which we have they could not be Seperated from each other when driveing with their loads on in the course of the day. I thought it probable that they might be stolen by Some Skulking Shoshones, but as it was yet possible that they may have taken our back rout or rambled to a greater distance I deturmined to leave a Small party and hunt for them to day, and proceed on with the main party and all the baggage to the Canoes, raise them out of the water and expose them to the sun to dry by the time this party Should overtake me. I left Sergt. Ordway, Shannon, Gibson Collins & Labeech with directions to hunt this day for the horses without they Should discover that the Inds. had taken them into the Mountains, and prosue our trail &c. at 1/2 past 10 A M I set out and proceeded on through an open rich vally crossing four large Creeks with extensive low and mirey bottoms, and a Small river keeping the Course I had set out on S. 56° E after crossing the river I kept up on the N E. side, Sometimes following an old road which frequently disappeared, at the distance of 16 miles we arived at a Boiling Spring Situated about 100 paces from a large Easterly fork of the Small river in a leavel open vally plain and nearly opposit & E. of the 3 forks of this little river which heads in the Snowey Mountains to the S E. & S W of the Springs. this Spring contains a very considerable quantity of water, and actually blubbers with heat for 20 paces below where it rises. it has every appearance of boiling, too hot for a man to endure his hand in it 3 seconds. I directt Sergt. Pryor and John Shields to put each a peice of meat in the water of different Sises. the one about the Size of my 3 fingers Cooked dun in 25 minits the other much thicker was 32 minits before it became Sufficiently dun. this water boils up through some loose hard gritty Stone. a little sulferish after takeing dininer and letting our horses graize 1 hour and a half we proceeded on Crossed this easterly branch and up on the N. Side of this middle fork 9 miles crossed it near the head of an Easterly branch and passed through a gap of a mountain on the Easterly Side of which we encamped near some butifull which fall into Willards Creek. I directed that the rambling horses should be hobbled, and the Sentinal to examine the horses after the moon rose. Emence beaver sign.
Monday, July 7, 1806 This morning our horses were scattered everywhere. I sent out men in every direction to search for them. They found all but 9 by 6 o'clock and told me they couldn't locate those 9. I then ordered 6 men to take horses and go farther out in different directions. Those men all returned by 10 A.M. and reported that they had gone in circles 6 to 8 miles around camp and couldn't see any signs of the horses. They had reason to believe that the Indians had stolen them during the night, based on the quality of the horses—all of them were the most valuable we had. Several of the horses were so attached to inferior horses we had that they couldn’t be separated when driven with their loads throughout the day. I thought it was likely that some sneaky Shoshones might have taken them, but since it was still possible they wandered off or took a back route, I decided to leave a small group to search for them today and continue on with the main group and all the baggage to the canoes, take them out of the water, and expose them to the sun to dry by the time this search party caught up with me. I left Sergeant Ordway, Shannon, Gibson, Collins, and Labeech with instructions to look for the horses unless they discovered the Indians had taken them into the mountains, in which case they would follow our trail, etc. At 10:30 A.M., I set out and proceeded through an open, rich valley, crossing four large creeks with extensive low and muddy bottoms, and a small river, keeping my course at S. 56° E. After crossing the river, I stayed on the NE side, sometimes following an old path that often disappeared. After traveling 16 miles, we arrived at a boiling spring located about 100 paces from a large easterly fork of the small river in a flat, open valley almost directly opposite and east of the three forks of this river, which originates in the snowy mountains to the SE and SW of the springs. This spring has a considerable amount of water and bubbles with heat for about 20 paces below its source. It looks like it's boiling, too hot for a person to keep their hand in for more than 3 seconds. I instructed Sergeant Pryor and John Shields to each put a piece of meat into the water of different sizes. The one about the size of my three fingers cooked through in 25 minutes, while the thicker piece took 32 minutes to cook thoroughly. This water bubbles up through some loose, hard, gritty stone and has a slight sulfur smell. After having dinner and letting our horses graze for an hour and a half, we continued on, crossed this easterly branch, and followed the north side of the middle fork for 9 miles, crossing it near the head of an easterly branch before passing through a gap in a mountain, where we camped near some beautiful waterfalls that flow into Willards Creek. I directed that the wandering horses be hobbled and the sentinel check on the horses after the moon rose. There was a lot of beaver activity noted.
This extensive vally Surround with covered with snow is extreemly fertile covered esculent plants &c and the Creeks which pass through it contains emence numbers of beaver &c. I now take my leave of this butifull extensive vally which I call the hot spring Vally, and behold one less extensive and much more rugid on Willards Creek for near 12 miles in length. remarkable Cold night
This vast valley, covered in snow, is extremely fertile, filled with edible plants, and the creeks that flow through it are home to a huge number of beavers, among other things. I now say goodbye to this beautiful, expansive valley, which I call the Hot Spring Valley, and look upon one that is less extensive and much more rugged along Willard's Creek, stretching nearly 12 miles in length. It’s a remarkably cold night.
[Clark, July 8, 1806]
Tuesday July 8th 1806 Our horses being Scattered we were detained unill 8 A. M before we Set out. we proceeded on down Willards Creek on the S.W. Side about 11 miles near which the Creek passes through the mountain we then Steared S. 20° E. to the West branch of Jeffersons river in Snake Indian cove about 7 miles and halded two hours to let the horses graize. after dinner we proceeded on down the forke which is here but Small 9 Miles to our encampment of 17 Augt. at which place we Sunk our Canoes & buried Some articles, as before mentioned the most of the Party with me being Chewers of Tobacco become So impatient to be chewing it that they Scercely gave themselves time to take their Saddles off their horses before they were off to the deposit. I found every article Safe, except a little damp. I gave to each man who used tobacco about two feet off a part of a role took one third of the ballance myself and put up 2/3 in a box to Send down with the most of the articles which had been left at this place, by the Canoes to Capt. Lewis. as it was late nothing Could be done with the Canoes this evening. I examined them and found then all Safe except one of the largest which had a large hole in one Side & Split in bow. The Country through which we passed to day was diversified high dry and uneaven Stoney open plains and low bottoms very boggy with high mountains on the tops and North sides of which there was Snow, great quantities of the Species of hysoop & shrubs common to the Missouri plains are Scattered in those Vallys and hill Sides. The road which we have traveled from travellers rest Creek to this place an excellent road. and with only a few trees being cut out of the way would be an excellent waggon road one Mountain of about 4 miles over excepted which would require a little digging The distance is 164 Miles-. Shields killed an antelope
Tuesday, July 8th, 1806 Our horses got scattered, so we were delayed until 8 A.M. before we set out. We went down Willards Creek on the southwest side for about 11 miles, where the creek passes through the mountain. Then we headed S. 20° E. to the west branch of Jefferson's River in Snake Indian Cove, about 7 miles, and stopped for two hours to let the horses graze. After lunch, we continued down the fork, which is small here, for 9 miles to our campsite from August 17th, where we sank our canoes and buried some items. Most of the group with me are tobacco chewers and became so impatient to chew that they barely took the saddles off their horses before heading to the deposit. I found every item safe, except for a bit of dampness. I gave each man who used tobacco about two feet from a part of a roll, kept one third of the balance for myself, and put 2/3 in a box to send down with most of the items left here by the canoes to Capt. Lewis. Since it was late, nothing could be done with the canoes that evening. I checked them and found them all safe except for one of the largest, which had a large hole on one side and a split in the bow. The area we passed through today was varied—high, dry, uneven stony plains, and very boggy low bottoms, with tall mountains on the tops and north sides covered in snow. There were lots of the species of hyssop and shrubs common to the Missouri plains scattered in those valleys and hillsides. The road we traveled from Travelers Rest Creek to this place was excellent, and with just a few trees cleared, it would make a great wagon road, except for one mountain about 4 miles long that would need a little digging. The distance is 164 miles. Shields killed an antelope.
[Clark, July 9, 1806]
Wednesday 9th July 1806 rose early had the horses brought up. after which I had the Canoes raised washed, brough down and drawn up on Shore to dry and repard. Set Several men to work digging for the Tobacco Capt. Lewis informed me he had buried in the place the lodge Stood when we lay here last Summer, they Serched diligently without finding anything. at 10 A M Sergt. Ordway and party arrived with the horses we had lost. he reported that he found those horses near the head of the Creek on which we encamped, makeing off as fast as they could and much Scattered. nothing material took place with his party in their absence. I had the Canoes repared men & lodes appotioned ready to embark tomorrow morning. I also formd. the party to accomp me to the river Rejhone from applicants and apportioned what little baggage I intended to carry as also the Spear horses. this day was windy and Cold. The Squar brought me a Plant the root of which the nativs eat. this root most resembles a Carrot in form and Size and Something of its colour, being of a pailer yellow than that of our Carrot, the Stem and leaf is much like the Common Carrot, and the taste not unlike. it is a native of moist land.—John Sheilds and Collins each killed a Deer this morning. the wind dried our Canoes very much they will be Sufficiently dry by tomorrow morning to Set out in them down the river.
Wednesday, July 9, 1806, I got up early and had the horses brought out. After that, I had the canoes lifted, washed, brought down, and placed on the shore to dry and be repaired. I assigned several men to dig for the tobacco that Captain Lewis said he buried where the lodge stood when we were here last summer. They searched diligently but didn't find anything. At 10 A.M., Sergeant Ordway and his group arrived with the horses we had lost. He reported that he found those horses near the head of the creek where we camped, trying to run away as fast as they could and were very scattered. Nothing significant happened with his party while they were gone. I had the canoes repaired and organized the men and loads to be ready for tomorrow morning's departure. I also gathered the group to accompany me to the river Rejhone from the applicants and sorted out the little luggage I planned to take, along with the spear horses. The day was windy and cold. The squaw brought me a plant whose root the natives eat. This root closely resembles a carrot in shape and size and somewhat in color, being a paler yellow than our carrots. The stem and leaf look much like a common carrot, and it tastes not unlike it. It grows in moist land. John Shields and Collins each killed a deer this morning. The wind dried our canoes quite a bit, and they will be dry enough by tomorrow morning for us to set out in them down the river.
[Clark, July 10, 1806]
Thursday July 10th 1806 last night was very cold and this morning everything was white with frost and the grass Stiff frozend. I had Some water exposed in a bason in which the ice was 3/4 of an inch thick this morning. I had all the Canoes put into the water and every article which was intended to be Sent down put on board, and the horses collected and packed with what fiew articles I intend takeing with me to the River Rochejhone, and after brackfast we all Set out at the Same time & proceeded on Down Jeffersons river on the East Side through Sarviss Vally and rattle snake mountain and into that butifull and extensive Vally open and fertile which we Call the beaver head Vally which is the Indian name in their language Har na Hap pap Chah. from the No. of those animals in it & a pt. of land resembling the head of one this Vally extends from the rattle Snake Mountain down Jeffersons river as low as fraziers Creek above the big horn mountain and is from 12 to 30 miles in width and ____ miles on a direct line in length and Jeffersons river in passing through this Vally reives McNeals Creek, Track Creek, Phalanthrophy river, Wisdom river, Fields river and Fraziers Creek each throw in a considerable quantity of water and have innoumerable beaver and otter on them; the bushes in their low bottoms are the resort for great numbers of Deer, and in the higher parts of the Vally we see Antelopes scattered feeding. I saw also on the Sides of the rock in rattle snake mountain 15 big horn animals, those animals feed on the grass which grow on the Sides of the mountn. and in the narrow bottoms on the Water courses near the Steep Sides of the mountains on which they can make their escape from the pursute of wolves Bear &c. at Meridian I halted to let the horses Graze having Come 15 Miles I ordered the to land. Sergt. Ordway informed me that the party with him had Come on very well, and he thought the Canoes could go as farst as the horses &c. as the river now become wider and not So Sholl, I deturmined to put all the baggage &c. which I intend takeing with me to the river Rochejhone in the canoes and proceed on down with them myself to the 3 forks or Madisons & galletens rivers. leaveing the horses to be taken down by Sergt. Pryor and 6 of the men of the party to accompany me to the river Rochejhone and directed Sergt. Pryor to proceed on moderately and if possible encamp with us every night. after dinner had my baggage put on board and Set out, and proceeded on tolerable well to the head of the 3000 Mile Island on which we had encamped on the 11th of Augt last. the Canoes passed Six of my encampments assending, opposit this island I encamped on the East side. the Musquetors were troublesom all day and untill one hour after Sunset when it became Cool and they disappeared. in passing down in the Course of this day we saw great numbers of beaver lying on the Shores in the Sun. wild young Gees and ducks are common in this river. we killed two young gees this evening. I saw several large rattle Snakes in passing the rattle Snake Mountain they were fierce.
Thursday, July 10th, 1806. Last night was very cold, and this morning everything was covered in frost, with the grass stiff from freezing. I had some water left out in a basin, and the ice was three-quarters of an inch thick this morning. I had all the canoes put in the water and loaded every item meant to be sent down. The horses were gathered and packed with the few things I planned to take with me to the River Rochejhone. After breakfast, we all set out at the same time and continued down Jefferson's River on the east side, through Sarviss Valley and Rattlesnake Mountain, into the beautiful and expansive valley we call Beaver Head Valley — a name derived from the number of beavers in the area and a piece of land resembling a beaver's head in their language, Har na Hap pap Chah. This valley stretches from Rattlesnake Mountain down Jefferson's River to as low as Frazier's Creek above Bighorn Mountain, and it varies from 12 to 30 miles in width and several miles in length. As Jefferson's River flows through this valley, it receives McNeal's Creek, Track Creek, Philanthropy River, Wisdom River, Fields River, and Frazier's Creek, each adding a substantial amount of water and home to countless beavers and otters. The bushes in their low areas attract many deer, and in the higher parts of the valley, we saw antelope scattered while feeding. I also spotted 15 bighorn sheep on the sides of Rattlesnake Mountain; these animals feed on the grass growing on the mountain sides and in the narrow bottoms near watercourses, allowing them to escape from wolves, bears, etc. At noon, I paused to let the horses graze after traveling 15 miles. Sergeant Ordway informed me that his group had progressed well, and he believed the canoes could move as fast as the horses since the river was becoming wider and not as shallow. I decided to load all the gear I planned to take to the River Rochejhone into the canoes and journey down with them myself to the Three Forks or Madison and Gallatin rivers, leaving the horses to be taken down by Sergeant Pryor and six of the men accompanying me to the River Rochejhone. I instructed Sergeant Pryor to proceed at a moderate pace, aiming to camp with us each night if possible. After dinner, I loaded my belongings onto the canoes and set out, making decent progress to the head of the 3000 Mile Island where we had camped on August 11th last year. The canoes passed six of my previous camps; opposite this island, I camped on the east side. The mosquitoes were bothersome all day until an hour after sunset when it cooled down, and they disappeared. Throughout the day, we saw numerous beavers lounging on the shores in the sun. Wild young geese and ducks are common in this river; we killed two young geese this evening. I also encountered several large rattlesnakes while passing Rattlesnake Mountain; they were aggressive.
[Clark, July 11, 1806]
Friday 11th July 1806 Sent on 4 of the best hunters in 2 Canoes to proceed on a fiew miles a head and hunt untill I came up with them, after an early brackfast I proceeded on down a very crooked Chanel, at 8 a. m I overtook one Canoe with a Deer which Collins had killed, at meridian passed Sergt. Pryors Camp near a high point of land on the left Side which the Shoshones call the beavers head. the wind rose and blew with great violence from the S W imediately off Some high mountains Covered with Snow. the violence of this wind retarded our progress very much and the river being emencly Crooked we had it imediately in our face nearly every bend. at 6 P M I passed Phalanthrophy river which I proceved was very low. the wind Shifted about to the N. E. and bley very hard tho much wormer than the forepart of the day. at 7 P M I arrived at the Enterance of Wisdom River and Encampd. in the Spot we had encamped the 6th of August last. here we found a Bayonet which had been left & the Canoe quite safe. I directed that all the nails be taken out of this Canoe and paddles to be made of her Sides & here I came up with Gibson & Colter whome I had Sent on a head for the purpose of hunting this morning, they had killed a fat Buck and 5 young gees nearly grown. Wisdom river is very high and falling. I have Seen great Nos. of Beaver on the banks and in the water as I passed down to day, also some Deer and great numbers young gees, Sand hill cranes &c. &c. Sgt. Pryor left a deer on the shore
Friday, July 11, 1806 I sent 4 of the best hunters in 2 canoes to go a few miles ahead and hunt until I caught up with them. After an early breakfast, I continued down a very winding channel. At 8 a.m., I caught up with one canoe that had a deer killed by Collins. At noon, I passed Sergeant Pryor's camp near a high point of land on the left side, which the Shoshones call Beaver's Head. The wind picked up and blew fiercely from the southwest, right off some high, snow-covered mountains. The force of the wind significantly slowed our progress, and since the river was extremely winding, we faced the wind nearly at every bend. At 6 p.m., I passed the Philanthropy River, which was very low. The wind shifted to the northeast and blew hard, though it was much warmer than earlier in the day. At 7 p.m., I reached the entrance of Wisdom River and camped at the same spot where we had camped on August 6th last year. Here, we found a bayonet that had been left behind, and the canoe was quite safe. I ordered that all the nails be taken out of this canoe and paddles be made from her sides. It was here that I caught up with Gibson and Colter, whom I had sent ahead this morning to hunt. They had killed a fat buck and 5 nearly grown young geese. Wisdom River is very high and falling. I saw a large number of beavers on the banks and in the water as I passed down today, as well as some deer and many young geese, sandhill cranes, etc. Sgt. Pryor left a deer on the shore.
[Clark, July 12, 1806]
Saturday 12th,July 1806 Sergt. Pryor did not join me last night he has proceeded on down. the beaver was flacking in the river about us all the last night. this Morning I was detained untill 7 A M makeing Paddles and drawing the nails of the Canoe to be left at this place and the one we had before left here. after completing the paddles &c and takeing Some Brackfast I set out the Current I find much Stronger below the forks than above and the river tolerably streight as low as panther Creek when it became much more Crooked the Wind rose and blew hard off the Snowey mountains to the N. W. and renderd it very difficuelt to keep the canoes from running against the Shore at 2 P.M. the Canoe in which I was in was driven by a Suden puff of wind under a log which projected over the water from the bank, and the man in the Stern Howard was Caught in between the Canoe and the log and a little hurt after disingaging our selves from this log the canoe was driven imediately under a drift which projected over and a little abov the Water, here the Canoe was very near turning over we with much exertion after takeing out Some of the baggage hauled her out, and proceeded on without receving any damage. the men in the other Canoes Seeing our Situation landed and come with as much Speed as possible through the briers and thick brush to our assistance. but from the thickness of the brush did not get up to our assistance untill we had got Clear. at 3 P M we halted at the enterance of Fields Creek and dined here Willard and Collins over took us with two deer which they had killd. this morning and by takeing a different Side of an Island from which we Came, we had passed them. after dinner I proceeded on and Encamped a little below our encampmt. of the 31st of July last. the Musquetoes very troublesome this evening Some old buffalow Signs. I killed 4 young gees and Collins killed 2 bever this evening.
Saturday, July 12, 1806 Sgt. Pryor didn't join me last night; he moved on ahead. The beavers were slapping the water around us all night long. This morning, I was held up until 7 AM making paddles and pulling the nails from the canoe we’re leaving here, as well as the one we had before. After finishing the paddles and having some breakfast, I set out. The current is much stronger below the forks than above, and the river runs pretty straight down to Panther Creek, where it gets much more crooked. The wind picked up and blew hard from the snowy mountains to the northwest, making it very difficult to keep the canoes from crashing into the shore. At 2 PM, the canoe I was in was suddenly pushed by a gust of wind under a log that jutted over the water from the bank. The man in the stern, Howard, got caught between the canoe and the log and got a little hurt. Once we untangled ourselves from the log, the canoe was pushed right under a drift that hung over and slightly above the water. The canoe nearly tipped over, but with a lot of effort, we managed to haul it out by removing some of the baggage and continued on without any damage. The men in the other canoes saw our situation, landed, and hurried through the thorns and thick brush to help us. However, due to the dense brush, they didn’t reach us until we had already cleared the area. At 3 PM, we stopped at the entrance of Fields Creek and had lunch. Willard and Collins caught up with us, bringing two deer they had killed this morning, as we had gone around a different side of the island than they had. After lunch, I moved on and camped just below our campsite from July 31st last year. The mosquitoes were really bothersome tonight. I found some old buffalo signs. I killed four young geese, and Collins killed two beavers this evening.
[Clark, July 13, 1806]
Sunday 13th July 1806 Set out early this morning and proceded on very well to the enterance of Madicines river at our old Encampment of the 27th July last at 12 where I found Sergt. Pryor and party with the horses, they had arived at this place one hour before us. his party had killed 6 deer & a white bear I had all the horses driven across Madicine & gallitines rivers and halted to dine and let the horses feed imediately below the enterance of Gallitine. had all the baggage of the land party taken out of the Canoes and after dinner the 6 Canoes and the party of 10 men under the direction of Sergt. Ordway Set out. previous to their departur I gave instructions how they were to proceed &c. I also wrote to Capt Lewis by Sergt. Ordway-. my party now Consists of the following persons Viz: Serjeant N. Pryor, Jo. Shields, G. Shannon William Bratton, Labiech, Windsor, H. Hall, Gibson, Interpreter Shabono his wife & Child and my man york; with 49 horses and a colt. the horses feet are very sore and Several of them can Scercely proceed on. at 5. P. M I Set out from the head of Missouri at the 3 forks, and proceeded on nearly East 4 miles and Encamped on the bank of Gallitines River which is a butifull navigable Stream. Saw a large Gange of Elk in the plains and Deer in the river bottoms. I also observe beaver and Several otter in galletines river as I passed along. Gibson killed an otter the fur of which was much longer and whiter than any which I had Seen. Willard killed 2 deer this morning. all the meat I had put into the Canoes except a Sufficiency for Supper. The Country in the forks between Gallitins & Madisens rivers is a butifull leavel plain Covered with low grass.—on the lower or N E. Side of Gallitins river the Country rises gradually to the foot of a mountain which runs nearly parrelal. those plains are indefferant or the Soil of which is not very rich they are Stoney & Contain Several Stratas of white rock. the Current of the river is rapid and near the mouth contains Several islands, it is navigable for Canoes. I saw Several Antelope Common Deer, wolves, beaver, Otter, Eagles, hawks, Crows, wild gees both old and young, does &c. &c. I observe Several leading roads which appear to pass to a gap of the mountain in a E. N E. direction about 18 or 20 miles distant. The indian woman who has been of great Service to me as a pilot through this Country recommends a gap in the mountain more South which I shall cross.-.
Sunday, July 13, 1806 We set out early this morning and moved along quite well to the entrance of Medicine River at our old campsite from July 27th last year at noon, where I found Sergeant Pryor and his group with the horses; they had arrived here an hour before us. His group had killed six deer and a white bear. I had all the horses driven across Medicine and Gallatin Rivers and stopped to have lunch and let the horses feed just below the entrance of Gallatin. After dinner, I took all the baggage of the land party out of the canoes, and then the six canoes and the group of ten men under Sergeant Ordway set out. Before their departure, I gave instructions on how they should proceed, etc. I also wrote to Captain Lewis through Sergeant Ordway. My party now consists of the following people: Sergeant N. Pryor, Jo. Shields, G. Shannon, William Bratton, Labiech, Windsor, H. Hall, Gibson, Interpreter Shabono, his wife and child, and my man York; with 49 horses and a colt. The horses' feet are very sore, and several of them can barely move on. At 5 PM, I left the head of the Missouri at the three forks and continued nearly east for 4 miles and camped on the bank of Gallatin River, which is a beautiful navigable stream. I saw a large herd of elk in the plains and deer in the river bottoms. I also spotted beaver and several otters in Gallatin River as I passed by. Gibson killed an otter whose fur was much longer and whiter than any I had seen before. Willard killed two deer this morning. All the meat I had was stored in the canoes except for enough for supper. The land in the forks between Gallatin and Medicine rivers is a beautiful level plain covered with low grass. On the lower or northeast side of Gallatin River, the land rises gradually to the base of a mountain that runs nearly parallel. These plains are mediocre, with soil that isn’t very rich; they are stony and contain several layers of white rock. The river's current is swift and near its mouth contains several islands; it’s navigable for canoes. I saw several antelope, common deer, wolves, beaver, otter, eagles, hawks, crows, and wild geese, both old and young, as well as does, etc. I noticed several trails that seem to lead toward a gap in the mountain in an east-northeast direction about 18 to 20 miles away. The Indian woman who has been a great help to me as a guide through this area recommends a gap in the mountain further south, which I plan to cross.
[Clark, July 14, 1806]
Monday 14th July 1806 Sent Sheilds a head to kill a deer for our brackfast and at an early hour Set out with the party Crossed Gallitines river which makes a Considerable bend to the N. E. and proceeded on nearly S. 78° E through an open Leavel plain at 6 miles I Struck the river and crossed a part of it and attemptd to proceed on through the river bottoms which was Several Miles wide at this place, I crossed Several chanels of the river running through the bottom in defferent directions. I proceeded on about two miles crossing those defferent chanels all of which was damed with beaver in Such a manner as to render the passage impracticable and after Swamped as I may Say in this bottom of beaver I was compelled to turn Short about to the right and after Some difficuelty made my way good to an open low but firm plain which was an Island and extended nearly the Course I wished to proceed. here the Squar informed me that there was a large road passing through the upper part of this low plain from Madicins river through the gap which I was Stearing my Course to. I proceeded up this plain 4 miles and Crossed the main Chanel of the river, having passed through a Skirt of cotton timber to an open low plain on the N E. Side of the river and nooned it. the river is divided and on all the small Streams inoumerable quantities of beaver dams, tho the river is yet navagable for Canoes. I overtook Shields Soon after I set out; he had killed a large fat Buck. I saw Elk deer & Antelopes, and great deel of old Signs of buffalow. their roads is in every direction. The Indian woman informs me that a fiew years ago Buffalow was very plenty in those plains & Vallies quit as high as the head of Jeffersons river, but flew of them ever come into those Vallys of late years owing to the Shoshones who are fearfull of passing into the plains West of the mountains and Subsist on what game they Can Catch in the Mountains principally and the fish which they take in the E. fork of Lewis's river. Small parties of the Shoshones do pass over to the plains for a few days at a time and kill buffalow for their Skins and dried meat, and return imediately into the Mountains. after Dinner we proceeded on a little to the South of East through an open leavel plain to the three forks of the E branch of Gallitines River at about 12 miles, crossed the most Southerly of those forks and Struck an old buffalow road which I kept Continuing nearly the Same Course up the middle fork Crossed it and Camped on a small branch of the middle fork on the N E. Side at the commencement of the gap of the mountain—the road leading up this branch, Several other roads all old Come in from the right & left. emence quantities of beaver on this Fork quit down, and their dams very much impeed the navigation of it from the 3 forks down, tho I beleive it practicable for Small Canoes by unloading at a fiew of the worst of those dams. Deer are plenty. Shannon Shields and Sergt. Pryor each killed one which were very fat much more So than they are Commonly at this Season of the year. The Main fork of Galletins River turn South and enter them mountains which are yet Covered with Snow. Madisens river makes a Great bend to the East and enters the Same mountain. a leavel plain between the two rivers below the mountain.
Monday, July 14, 1806 Sent Shields ahead to kill a deer for our breakfast, and at an early hour, set out with the group. We crossed Gallatin River, which makes a significant bend to the northeast, and proceeded nearly south at 78° east through an open, level plain. After 6 miles, I hit the river and crossed part of it, then attempted to make my way through the river bottoms, which were several miles wide at this spot. I crossed several channels of the river running in different directions. I continued on for about two miles, crossing those various channels, all of which were dammed by beavers in such a way that made passage impossible. After getting stuck in this beaver bottom, I had to turn sharply to the right and, after some difficulty, found a clear, low but solid plain that was an island and extended nearly along the way I wanted to go. Here, the square told me there was a large road running through the upper part of this low plain from Madison River through the gap I was aiming for. I moved up this plain for 4 miles and crossed the main channel of the river, having passed through a strip of cottonwood trees to an open low plain on the northeast side of the river where I took a break. The river splits and countless beaver dams block all the small streams, although the river is still navigable for canoes. I caught up with Shields shortly after I started; he had killed a large, fat buck. I spotted elk, deer, and antelopes, and a lot of old signs of buffalo; their trails are in every direction. The Indian woman told me that a few years ago, buffalo were very plentiful in these plains and valleys all the way to the head of Jefferson's River, but very few have come into these valleys lately because of the Shoshones, who are afraid to venture into the plains west of the mountains and primarily survive on the game they can catch in the mountains and the fish from the east fork of Lewis's River. Small groups of the Shoshones do cross over to the plains for a few days at a time to hunt buffalo for their skins and dried meat, then immediately return to the mountains. After lunch, we continued southeast through an open, level plain to the three forks of the east branch of Gallatin River, about 12 miles in. We crossed the most southern of those forks and found an old buffalo road, which I followed, nearly maintaining the same course up the middle fork. I crossed it and camped on a small branch of the middle fork on the northeast side at the start of the mountain gap—the road leading up this branch, along with several other old roads, comes in from the right and left. There are immense quantities of beavers on this fork that have blocked it significantly, though I believe it is navigable for small canoes by unloading at a few of the worst dams. Deer are plentiful. Shannon, Shields, and Sergeant Pryor each killed one that was very fat, much more so than they usually are at this time of year. The main fork of Gallatin River turns south and enters the mountains, which are still covered with snow. Madison River makes a big bend to the east and also enters the same mountains, with a level plain between the two rivers below the mountain.
[Clark, July 15, 1806]
Tuesday 15th July 1806 we collected our horses and after an early brackft at 8 A M Set out and proceeded up the branch to the head thence over a low gap in the mountain thence across the heads of the N E. branch of the fork of Gallitins river which we Camped near last night passing over a low dividing ridge to the head of a water Course which runs into the Rochejhone, prosueing an old buffalow road which enlargenes by one which joins it from the most Easterly branch of the East fork of Galetins R. proceeding down the branch a little to the N. of East keeping on the North Side of the branch to the River rochejhone at which place I arrived at 2 P M. The Distance from the three forks of the Easterly fork of Galletines river (from whence it may be navigated down with Small Canoes) to the river Rochejhone is 18 miles on an excellent high dry firm road with very incoiderable hills. from this river to the nearest part of the main fork of Gallitine is 29 miles mostly through a leavel plain. from the head of the Missouri at the 3 forks 48 miles through a leavel plain the most of the way as may be seen by the remarks in the evening after the usial delay of 3 hours to give the horses time to feed and rest and allowing our Selves time also to Cook and eate Dinner, I proceeded on down the river on an old buffalow road at the distance of 9 miles below the mountains Shield River discharges itself into the Rochejhone on it's N W. side above a high rocky Clift, this river is 35 yards wide deep and affords a great quantity of water it heads in those Snowey Mountains to the N W with Howards Creek, it contains some Timber Such as Cotton & willow in it's bottoms, and Great numbers of beaver the river also abounds in those animals as far as I have Seen.
On Tuesday, July 15, 1806, we gathered our horses and, after an early breakfast at 8 AM, set out and made our way up the branch to the head, then crossed over a low gap in the mountain. From there, we went across the heads of the northeast branch of the fork of Gallatin River, where we camped last night, passing over a low dividing ridge to the head of a watercourse that flows into the Rochejhone. Following an old buffalo path that widened as it connected with another path from the easternmost branch of the east fork of Gallatin River, we continued down the branch a little to the north of east, keeping to the north side of the branch until we reached the Rochejhone River, arriving there at 2 PM. The distance from the three forks of the eastern fork of Gallatin River (which can be navigated downstream with small canoes) to the Rochejhone River is 18 miles on an excellent, high, dry, firm road with very minor hills. From this river to the nearest point of the main fork of Gallatin is 29 miles, mostly through a flat plain. From the head of the Missouri at the three forks, it’s 48 miles through a flat plain, as noted in the remarks from that evening. After the usual 3-hour delay to allow the horses to feed and rest, and giving ourselves time to cook and eat dinner, I continued down the river on an old buffalo road. Nine miles below the mountains, the Shield River flows into the Rochejhone on its northwest side, above a high rocky cliff. This river is 35 yards wide and deep, providing a large quantity of water. It originates in the snowy mountains to the northwest, with Howards Creek feeding into it. The river has some timber like cottonwood and willow in its bottoms, and there are many beavers; as far as I've seen, the river is full of these animals.
passed the creek and over a high rocky hill and encamped in the upper part of a large bottom. The horses feet are very sore many of them Can Scercely proceed on over the Stone and gravel in every other respect they are Sound and in good Sperits. I saw two black bear on the side of the mountains this morning. Several gangs of Elk from 100 to 200 in a gangue on the river, great numbers of Antelopes. one Elk only killed to day.
passed the creek and over a high rocky hill and set up camp in the upper part of a large valley. The horses' feet are very sore; many of them can hardly move over the stones and gravel. In every other way, they are healthy and in good spirits. I saw two black bears on the mountainside this morning. Several groups of elk, ranging from 100 to 200 in a group, are by the river, along with a great number of antelopes. Only one elk was killed today.
The Roche passes out of a high rugid mountain covered with Snow. the bottoms are narrow within the mountains but widen from 1/2 a m. to 2 ms. in the Vally below, those bottoms are Subject to over flow, they contain Some tall Cotton wood, and willow rose bushes & rushes Honey suckle &c. a Second bottom on the N E. Side which rises to about 20 feet higher the first & is 1 m. wide this bottom is coars gravel pebils & Sand with Some earth on which the grass grow very Short and at this time is quit dry this 2d bottom over flows in high floods on the opposit Side of the river the plain is much higher and extendes quite to the foot of the mountain. The mountains to the S. S. E on the East side of the river is rocky rugid and on them are great quantities of Snow. a bold Snow mountain which bears East & is imediately at & N W of the 3 forks of the East fork of Gallitins river may be Seen, there is also a high rugid Mtn. on which is Snow bearing North 15 or 20 miles. but fiew flowers to be Seen in those plains. low grass in the high plains, and the Common corse grass, rushes and a species of rye is the growth of the low bottoms. the mountains have Some scattering pine on them, and on the Spurs and hill Sides there is some scrubby pine. I can See no timber Sufficient large for a Canoe which will Carry more than 3 men and Such a one would be too Small to answer my purpose
The river flows out from a high, rugged mountain covered in snow. The valleys are narrow among the mountains but widen from half a mile to two miles below. These valleys are prone to flooding and have some tall cottonwoods, willow bushes, rushes, honeysuckle, etc. There is a second valley on the northeast side that rises about 20 feet higher than the first and is one mile wide. This area has coarse gravel, pebbles, and sand with some soil where short grass grows, and right now it's quite dry. This second valley floods during heavy rains. On the opposite side of the river, the plain is much higher and extends right to the base of the mountain. The mountains to the south-southeast on the east side of the river are rocky and rugged, and they have a lot of snow. A prominent snow-covered mountain that faces east is right at the northwest of the three forks of the east fork of Gallatin's River. There's also a high, rugged mountain with snow that extends north for 15 to 20 miles, but there are few flowers in those plains. The high plains have low grass, and the low valleys have common coarse grass, rushes, and a type of rye. The mountains have some scattered pine trees, and on the spurs and hillsides, there are some scrubby pines. I don’t see any timber that’s large enough for a canoe that could carry more than three people, and such a canoe would be too small for my needs.
[Clark, July 16, 1806]
Wednesday 16th July 1806 I gave Labeech promission to proceed on early this morning a head and kill a fat Elk or Buffalow. our horses haveing rambled to a long distance down the river detained us much later than Common. we did not Set out untill 9 A M. we had not proceeded on far before I saw a buffalow & Sent Shannon to kill it this buffalow provd. to be a very fat Bull I had most of the flesh brought on an a part of the Skin to make mockersons for Some of our lame horses. proceeded on down the river without finding any trees Sufficently large for a Canoe about 10 miles and halted having passed over to an Island on which there was good food for our horses to let them graze & Dine. I have not Seen Labeech as yet. Saw a large gangue of about 200 Elk and nearly as many Antilope also two white or Grey Bear in the plains, one of them I Chased on horse back about 2 miles to the rugid part of the plain where I was compelled to give up the Chase two of the horses was So lame owing to their feet being worn quit Smooth and to the quick, the hind feet was much the worst I had Mockersons made of green Buffalow Skin and put on their feet which Seams to releve them very much in passing over the Stoney plains. after dinner I proceeded on Soon after I had set Out Labeech joined us with part of a fat Elk which he had killed. I passed over a Stoney point at which place the river runs Close to the high land on the N W. side crossed a small Creek and Encamped on the river a little below its Enterance. Saw emence heards of Elk feeding on the opposit side of the river. I saw a great number of young gees in the river. one of the men brought me a fish of a species I am unacquainted; it was 8 inches long formed like a trout. it's mouth was placed like that of the Sturgeon a red streak passed down each Side from the gills to the tail. The rocks which the high lands are faced with and which may also be seen in perpendicular Straters in the high plains, is a dark freestone. the greater part of this rock is of an excellent grit for Grindstones hard and sharp. observe the Silkgrass Sunflower & Wild indigo all in blume. but fiew other flowers are to be Seen in those plains. The river and Creek bottoms abound in Cotton wood trees, tho none of them Sufficiently large for Canoes. and the current of the Rochejhone is too rapid to depend on Skinn canoes. no other alternetive for me but to proceed on down untill I can find a tree Sufficently large &c. to make a Canoe.-
Wednesday, July 16, 1806 I gave Labeech permission to head out early this morning and hunt a fat elk or buffalo. Our horses had wandered far down the river, which delayed us longer than usual. We didn’t set out until 9 AM. We hadn’t gone far before I spotted a buffalo and sent Shannon to take it down. This buffalo turned out to be a very fat bull, and I had most of the meat brought back, along with part of its skin to make moccasins for some of our lame horses. We continued down the river without finding any trees large enough for a canoe for about 10 miles and then stopped after crossing to an island where there was good food for our horses, so they could graze and eat. I have not seen Labeech yet. I spotted a large herd of about 200 elk and nearly as many antelope, as well as two white or gray bears in the plains. I chased one of them on horseback for about 2 miles until I reached the rugged part of the plain where I had to give up the chase. Two of the horses were so lame because their feet had worn down quite smooth and tender, with the hind feet being the worst. I had moccasins made from green buffalo skin put on their feet, which seems to relieve them a lot while passing over the stony plains. After dinner, I proceeded on. Shortly after I set out, Labeech joined us with part of a fat elk that he had killed. I crossed over a stony point where the river runs close to the high land on the northwest side, crossed a small creek, and camped on the river a little below its entrance. I saw immense herds of elk feeding on the opposite side of the river. I also saw a great number of young geese in the river. One of the men brought me a fish of a species I am unfamiliar with; it was 8 inches long and shaped like a trout. Its mouth resembled that of a sturgeon, and a red streak ran down each side from the gills to the tail. The rocks on the high lands and those visible in perpendicular layers in the high plains are dark freestone. Most of this rock is excellent grit for grindstones, hard and sharp. I observed silkgrass, sunflowers, and wild indigo all in bloom, but few other flowers are seen in these plains. The river and creek bottoms are full of cottonwood trees, although none are large enough for canoes. The current of the Rochejhone is too strong to rely on skin canoes. I have no other option but to keep going until I can find a tree large enough to make a canoe.
[Clark, July 17, 1806]
Thursday 17th July 1806 The rain of last night wet us all. I had the horses all Collected early and Set out, proceeded ove the point of a ridge and through an open low bottom crossed a large Creek which heads in a high Snow toped Mountain to the N W. imediately opposit to the enterance of the Creek one Something larger falls in from the high Snow mountains to the S W. & South those Creeks I call Rivers across they contain Some timber in their Vallys at the distance of ____ Miles by water we arive at the enterance of two Small rivers or large Creeks which fall in nearly opposit to each other the one on the N E side is 30 yards wide. I call it Otter River the other Beaver R below the enterance of this Creek I halted as usial to let the Horses graze &c. I saw a Single Pelicon which is the first which I have Seen on this river. after Dinner I proceeded on Down the Rochejhone passing over a low ridge through a Small bottom and on the Side of a Stoney hill for 2 miles and through a Small bottom and again on the Side of a high hill for 11/2 M. to a bottom in which we Incamped opposit a Small Island. The high lands approach the river on either side much nearer than it does above and their Sides are partially covered with low pine & Cedar, none of which are Sufficently large for Canoes, nor have I Seen a Cotton tree in the low bottoms Sufficently large for that purpose. Buffalow is getting much more plenty than they were above. not so many Elk & more deer Shannon killed one deer. I Saw in one of those Small bottoms which I passed this evening an Indian fort which appears to have been built last Summer. this fort was built of logs and bark. the logs was put up very Closely capping on each other about 5 feet and Closely chinked. around which bark was Set up on end so as to Cover the Logs. the enterance was also guarded by a work on each Side of it and faceing the river. this work is about 50 feet Diameter & nearly round. the Squaw informs me that when the war parties find themselves pursued they make those forts to defend themselves in from the pursuers whose Superior numbers might other wise over power them and cut them off without receiveing much injurey on hors back &c.
Thursday, July 17, 1806 The rain from last night soaked us all. I had gathered the horses early and set out, crossing over the ridge and through an open low area, where we crossed a large creek that originates in a high snow-capped mountain to the northwest. Directly opposite the creek’s entrance, another larger creek flows in from the high snow mountains to the southwest and south. I refer to these creeks as rivers; they have some timber in their valleys. We arrived, about ____ miles by water, at the entrance of two small rivers or large creeks that almost meet directly across from each other. The one on the northeast side is 30 yards wide, which I call Otter River, and the other is Beaver River. Below the entrance of this creek, I halted as usual to let the horses graze, etc. I spotted a single pelican, the first one I’ve seen on this river. After lunch, I continued down the Rochejhone, passing over a low ridge, through a small valley, and alongside a stony hill for 2 miles, then through another small valley again alongside a high hill for 1.5 miles to a bottom where we camped opposite a small island. The highlands come much closer to the river on either side than they do upstream, and their sides are partially covered with low pine and cedar, none of which are large enough for canoes, nor have I seen a cottonwood tree in the low valleys that is sufficiently big for that purpose. Buffalo are becoming much more numerous than they were upstream, but there are not as many elk and more deer; Shannon killed one deer. I saw an Indian fort in one of those small valleys I passed this evening that seems to have been built last summer. This fort was made of logs and bark, with the logs closely stacked, capped on each other about 5 feet high, and tightly chinked. Bark was set up on end around it to cover the logs. The entrance was also guarded by a structure on each side of it facing the river. This structure is about 50 feet in diameter and nearly round. The woman I spoke with informed me that when war parties find themselves being pursued, they build these forts to defend themselves against pursuers whose superior numbers might otherwise overpower them and cut them off without taking much damage while on horseback, etc.
[Clark, July 18, 1806]
Friday 18th July 1806 as we were about Setting out this morning two Buffalow Bulls came near our Camp Several of the men Shot at one of them. their being near the river plunged in and Swam across to the opposit Side and there died. Shabono was thrown from his horse to day in pursute of a Buffaloe, the hose unfortunately Steping into a Braroe hole fell and threw him over his head. he is a good deel brused on his hip Sholder & face. after brackfast I proceeded on as usial, passd. over points of ridges So as to cutoff bends of the river crossed a Small Muddy brook on which I found great quantities of the Purple, yellow & black currents ripe. they were of an excellent flavour. I think the purple Superior to any I have ever tasted. The river here is about 200 yards wide rapid as usial and the water gliding over corse gravel and round Stones of various sizes of an excellent grite for whetestones. the bottoms of the river are narrow. the hills are not exceeding 200 feet in hight the sides of them are generally rocky and composed of rocks of the same texture of a dark Colour of Grit well Calculated for grindstones &c. The high bottoms is composed of gravel and Stone like those in the Chanel of the river, with a mixture of earth of a dark brown colour The Country back from the river on each Side is generally open wavering plains. Some pine is to be Seen in every direction in those plains on the Sides of hills &c. at 11 A.M. I observed a Smoke rise to the S. S. E in the plains towards the termonation of the rocky mountains in that direction (which is Covered with Snow) this Smoke must be raisd. by the Crow Indians in that direction as a Signal for us, or other bands. I think it most probable that they have discovered our trail and takeing us to be Shoshone &c. in Serch of them the Crow Indians to trade as is their Custom, have made this Smoke to Shew where they are-or otherwise takeing us to be their Enemy made this Signal for other bands to be on their guard. I halted in a bottom of fine grass to let the horses graze.
Friday, July 18, 1806, as we were getting ready to leave this morning, two buffalo bulls came close to our camp. Several of the men shot at one of them. It jumped into the river and swam across to the other side, where it died. Shabono was thrown from his horse today while chasing a buffalo; unfortunately, the horse stepped into a badger hole, fell, and threw him off. He is pretty bruised on his hip, shoulder, and face. After breakfast, I continued on as usual, crossed over ridges to cut off the bends of the river, and crossed a small muddy stream where I found a lot of purple, yellow, and black currants that were ripe. They were delicious, and I think the purple ones were better than any I have ever tasted. The river here is about 200 yards wide, as rapid as usual, with water rushing over coarse gravel and smooth stones of various sizes, which are great for whetstones. The riverbeds are narrow. The hills are no more than 200 feet high, with rocky sides made up of dark-colored grit, which is excellent for grindstones, etc. The high ground is composed of gravel and stones similar to those in the riverbed, mixed with dark brown soil. The area back from the river on each side is mostly open, rolling plains. You can see some pine trees scattered throughout those plains and on the hills. At 11 A.M., I noticed smoke rising to the southeast in the plains toward the end of the Rocky Mountains in that direction (which are covered with snow). This smoke must have been made by the Crow Indians as a signal for us or other bands. It's most likely they have spotted our trail and think we are Shoshone, etc., searching for them. The Crow Indians, wanting to trade as is their custom, have made this smoke to show where they are, or if they see us as their enemies, they've signaled other bands to be on their guard. I stopped in a grassy area to let the horses graze.
Shields killed a fat Buck on which we all Dined. after dinner and a delay of 3 hours to allow the horses time to feed, we Set out at 4 P.M. I set out and proceeded down the river through a butifull bottom, passing a Indian fort on the head of a Small island near the Lard Shore and Encamped on a Small Island Seperated from the Lard Shore by a very narrow Chanel. Shields killed a Buffalow this evening which Caused me to halt sooner than Common to Save Some of the flesh which was So rank and Strong that we took but very little. Gibson in attempting to mount his horse after Shooting a deer this evening fell and on a Snag and sent it nearly two inches into the Muskeler part of his thy. he informs me this Snag was about 1 inch in diamuter burnt at the end. this is a very bad wound and pains him exceedingly. I dressed the wound.
Shields killed a hefty buck that we all dined on. After dinner, and waiting for 3 hours to let the horses graze, we set out at 4 PM. I started down the river through a beautiful bottomland, passing an Indian fort at the tip of a small island near the left shore, and camped on a small island separated from the left shore by a very narrow channel. This evening, Shields killed a buffalo, which made me stop earlier than usual to save some of the meat, but it was so strong and rank that we took very little. Gibson, after shooting a deer this evening, fell while trying to mount his horse and impaled himself on a snag, pushing it nearly two inches into the muscle of his thigh. He told me this snag was about an inch in diameter and burnt at the end. It's a very bad wound and hurts him a lot. I dressed the wound.
[Clark, July 19, 1806]
Saturday 19th July 1806. I rose early and dressed Gibsons wound. he Slept but very little last night and complains of great pain in his Knee and hip as well as his thy. there being no timber on this part of the Rochjhone sufficintly large for a Canoe and time is pracious as it is our wish to get to the U States this Season, conclude to take Gibson in a litter if he is not able to ride on down the river untill I can find a tree Sufficently large for my purpose. I had the Strongest and jentlesst Horse Saddled and placed Skins & blankets in Such a manner that when he was put on the horse he felt himself in as easy a position as when lying. this was a fortunate circunstance as he Could go much more at his ease than in a litter. passed Rose bud river on Sd Side I proceeded on about 9 miles, and halted to let the horses graze and let Gibson rest. his leg become So numed from remaining in one position, as to render extreemly painfull to him. I derected Shields to keep through the thick timber and examine for a tree sufficently large & Sound to make a Canoe, and also hunt for Some Wild Ginger for a Poltice for Gibsons wound. he joined me at dinner with 2 fat Bucks but found neither tree or Ginger. he informed me that 2 white bear Chased him on horsback, each of which he Shot from his horse &c. Currents are ripe and abundant, i, e, the Yellow, black & purple spcies. we passed over two high points of Land from which I had a View of the rocky Mounts. to the W. & S. S. E. all Covered with Snow. I also Saw a low mountain in an Easterly direction. the high lands is partially Covered with pine and form purpendcular Clifts on either side. afer dinner I proceeded on the high lands become lower on either Side and those of the Stard Side form Bluffs of a darkish yellow earth; the bottom widens to Several Ms. on the Stard Side. the timber which cotton wood principally Scattered on the borders of the river is larger than above. I have Seen Some trees which would make very Small Canoes. Gibsons thy became So painfull that he could not Set on the horse after rideing about 2 hours and a half I directed Sergt Pryor and one man to continue with him under the Shade of a tree for an hour and then proceed on to the place I Should encamp which would be in the first good timber for canoes for the below. It may be proper to observe that the emence Sworms of Grass hoppers have distroyed every Sprig of Grass for maney miles on this Side of the river, and appear to be progressing upwards. about 4 Miles below the place I left Sergt. Pryor with Gibson found some large timber near which the grass was tolerably good I Encamped under a thick grove of those trees which was not Sufficiently large for my purpose, tho two of them would mak small Canoes. I took Shields and proceeded on through a large timbered bottom imediately below in Serch of better trees for Canoes, found Several about the Same Size with those at my Camp. at dark I returned to Camp
Saturday, July 19, 1806. I got up early and attended to Gibson's wound. He barely slept last night and is complaining of severe pain in his knee, hip, and thigh. There’s no timber in this part of the Rochjhone that’s big enough for a canoe, and time is precious since we want to reach the U.S. this season. We decided to carry Gibson in a litter if he can’t ride down the river until I can find a tree that’s large enough for my needs. I saddled the strongest and gentlest horse and arranged skins and blankets so that when he was placed on the horse, he was in as comfortable a position as if he were lying down. This worked out well since he was able to travel much more easily than he would have in a litter. We passed Rosebud River on the south side, then I continued on for about nine miles and stopped to let the horses graze and give Gibson some rest. His leg got so numb from being in one position that it became extremely painful for him. I instructed Shields to go through the thick timber and search for a sufficiently large and sound tree to make a canoe, and also to look for some wild ginger for a poultice for Gibson's wound. He joined me at dinner with two fat bucks but found neither a tree nor any ginger. He told me that he was chased by two bears while on horseback, and he managed to shoot both of them. The currents are ripe and abundant, meaning the yellow, black, and purple species. We passed over two high points of land from where I could see the rocky mountains to the west and southeast, all covered in snow. I also spotted a low mountain to the east. The highlands are partially covered with pine and have steep cliffs on both sides. After dinner, I continued on; the highlands became lower on either side, and those on the starboard side formed bluffs of dark yellow earth; the valley widens to several miles on the starboard side. The timber, mainly cottonwood, scattered along the riverbanks is larger than further back. I’ve seen some trees that could make very small canoes. Gibson’s thigh became so painful that he couldn’t sit on the horse after riding for about two and a half hours. I directed Sergeant Pryor and one man to stay with him in the shade of a tree for an hour, then continue on to the spot where I’d set up camp, which would be near the first good timber for canoes downstream. It’s worth noting that immense swarms of grasshoppers have destroyed every blade of grass for many miles on this side of the river, and they seem to be moving upstream. About four miles below where I left Sergeant Pryor with Gibson, I found some large timber near where the grass was decent. I camped under a thick grove of those trees, which weren’t large enough for my purpose, although two of them could make small canoes. I took Shields and went through a large timbered area just below in search of better trees for canoes; I found several about the same size as those at my camp. When it got dark, I returned to camp.
Sergt. Pryor had arived with gibson. after my arival at this place the hunters killed Seven Elk, four Deer, and I wounded a Buffalow very badly near the Camp imediately after I arived. in the forepart of the day the hunters killed two deer an Antelope & Shot two Bear. Shabono informed me that he Saw an Indian on the high lands on the opposit Side of the river, in the time I was absent in the woods. I saw a Smoke in the Same direction with that which I had Seen on the 7th inst. it appeared to be in the Mountains.
Sergt. Pryor arrived with Gibson. After I got to this place, the hunters killed seven elk, four deer, and I badly injured a buffalo near the camp right after I arrived. Earlier in the day, the hunters took down two deer, an antelope, and shot two bears. Shabono told me he saw an Indian on the high ground on the opposite side of the river while I was away in the woods. I noticed smoke in the same direction as the smoke I saw on the 7th of this month; it seemed to be coming from the mountains.
[Clark, July 20, 1806]
Sunday 20th July 1806 I directed Sergt. Pryor and Shields each of them good judges of timber to proceed on down the river Six or 8 miles and examine the bottoms if any larger trees than those near which we are encamped can be found and return before twelve oClock. they Set out at daylight. I also Sent Labech Shabono & hall to Skin & some of the flesh of the Elk Labeech had killed last evening they returned with one Skin the wolves haveing eaten the most of the other four Elk. I also Sent two men in Serch of wood Soutable for ax handles. they found some choke cherry which is the best wood which Can be precured in this Country. Saw a Bear on an Island opposit and Several Elk. Sergt. Pryor and Shields returned at half past 11 A M. and informed me that they had proceeded down the timbered bottoms of the river for about 12 miles without finding a tree better than those near my Camp. I deturmined to have two Canoes made out of the largest of those trees and lash them together which will Cause them to be Study and fully Sufficient to take my Small party & Self with what little baggage we have down this river. had handles put in the 3 Axes and after Sharpening them with a file fell the two trees which I intended for the two Canoes. those trees appeared tolerably Sound and will make Canoes of 28 feet in length and about 16 or 18 inches deep and from 16 to 24 inches wide. the men with the three axes Set in and worked untill dark. Sergt. Pryor dressed Some Skins to make him Clothes. Gibsons wound looks very well. I dressed it. The horses being fatigued and their feet very Sore, I Shall let them rest a fiew days. dureing which time the party intended for to take them by land to the Mandans will dress their Skins and make themselves Clothes to bare, as they are nearly naked. Shields killed a Deer & Buffalow & Shannon a faun and a Buffalow & York an Elk one of the buffalow was good meat. I had the best of him brought in and cut thin and Spread out to dry.
Sunday, July 20, 1806: I ordered Sergeant Pryor and Shields, both skilled at identifying good timber, to go down the river six or eight miles and check the bottoms for any larger trees than those near our camp. They were to return by noon. They set out at dawn. I also sent Labech, Shabono, and Hall to skin and process some of the elk that Labech killed last night. They returned with one skin, as wolves had eaten most of the other four elk. I sent two men to search for suitable wood for axe handles. They found some choke cherry, which is the best wood available in this area. I saw a bear on an island opposite us and several elk. Sergeant Pryor and Shields returned at 11:30 AM and told me they had gone down the river's timbered bottoms for about 12 miles without finding a tree better than those near my camp. I decided to make two canoes from the largest of these trees and lash them together to ensure they would be sturdy and sufficient to carry my small party and me with the little baggage we have down the river. I put handles on the three axes, sharpened them with a file, and felled the two trees I had in mind for the canoes. These trees appeared fairly sound and should make canoes about 28 feet long, 16 or 18 inches deep, and between 16 and 24 inches wide. The men with the three axes worked until dark. Sergeant Pryor dressed some skins to make himself clothes. Gibson’s wound looks good; I treated it. The horses are tired and have sore feet, so I will let them rest for a few days. During this time, the party planning to take them overland to the Mandans will dress their skins and make themselves clothes, as they are nearly naked. Shields killed a deer and a buffalo, Shannon got a fawn and a buffalo, and York got an elk. One of the buffalo was good meat. I had the best part brought in, sliced thin, and spread out to dry.
[Clark, July 21, 1806]
Monday 21st July 1806 This morning I was informed that Half of our horses were absent. Sent out Shannon Bratten, and Shabono to hunt them. Shabono went up the river Shanon down and Bratten in the bottom near Camp, Shabono and Bratten returned at 10 A M and informed me that they Saw no Signs of the horses. Shannon proceeded on down the river about 14 miles and did not return untill late in the evening, he was equally unsuckcessfull. Shannon informed me that he Saw a remarkable large Lodge about 12 miles below, covered with bushes and the top Deckorated with Skins &c and had the appearance of haveing been built about 2 years. I Sent out two men on hors back to kill a fat Cow which they did and returned in 3 hours the men work very diligiently on the Canoes one of them nearly finished ready to put in the water. Gibsons wound is beginning to heal. I am in great hope that it will get well in time for him to accompany Sgt.
Monday, July 21, 1806 This morning I was told that half of our horses were missing. I sent out Shannon, Bratten, and Shabono to find them. Shabono went up the river, Shannon went down, and Bratten stayed in the area near Camp. Shabono and Bratten returned at 10 A.M. and reported that they saw no signs of the horses. Shannon continued down the river for about 14 miles and didn’t come back until late in the evening; he had no luck either. Shannon told me he saw a remarkably large lodge about 12 miles downstream, covered in bushes, and the top decorated with skins, which appeared to have been built about two years ago. I sent out two men on horseback to kill a fat cow, which they did, returning within three hours. The men are working very diligently on the canoes; one of them is nearly finished and ready to be launched. Gibson's wound is beginning to heal. I’m hopeful that it will get better in time for him to join Sgt.
Pryor with the horses to the Mandans. This evening late a very black Cloud from the S. E. accompanied with Thunder and lightning with hard winds which Shifted about and was worm and disagreeable. I am apprehensive that the indians have Stolen our horses, and probably those who had made the Smoke a fiew days passed towards the S. W. I deturmined to have the ballance of the horses guarded and for that purpose sent out 3 men, on their approach near the horses were So alarmed that they ran away and entered the woods and the men returned- a Great number of Geese which raise their young on this river passed down frequently Since my arival at this place. we appear to be in the beginning of the buffalow Country. the plains are butifull and leavel but the Soil is but thin Stoney and in maney parts of the plains & bottoms there are great quantity of prickly pears. Saw Several herds of buffalow Since I arived at this Camp also antilops, wolves, pigions, Dovs, Hawks, ravins, Crows, larks, Sparrows, Eagles & bank martins &c. &c. The wolves which are the constant attendants of the Buffalow are in great numbers on the Scerts of those large gangues which are to be Seen in every direction in those praries
Pryor with the horses to the Mandans. Late this evening, a very dark cloud from the southeast brought thunder and lightning along with strong winds that shifted around and were warm and unpleasant. I'm worried that the Indians have stolen our horses, likely those who made the smoke a few days ago toward the southwest. I decided to have the remaining horses guarded, so I sent out three men. When they got close to the horses, they were so startled that they ran off and went into the woods, causing the men to return. A large number of geese that raise their young on this river have been passing through frequently since I arrived here. It seems we are at the start of buffalo country. The plains are beautiful and level, but the soil is thin and stony, and in many areas of the plains and bottoms, there are large quantities of prickly pears. I've seen several herds of buffalo since I arrived at this camp, as well as antelopes, wolves, pigeons, doves, hawks, ravens, crows, larks, sparrows, eagles, and bank martins, among others. The wolves, which are constant companions of the buffalo, are numerous around the edges of those large groups that can be seen in every direction across the prairies.
[Clark, July 22, 1806]
Tuesday 22nd of July 1806. The wind continued to blow very hard from the N. E. and a little before day light was moderately Cool. I Sent Sergt. Pryor and Shabono in Serch of the horses with directions to proceed up the river as far as the 1st narrows and examine particularly for their tracks, they returned at 3 P M and informed me that they had proceeded up the distance I derected them to go and could See neither horses nor tracks; the Plains imediately out from Camp is So dry and hard that the track of a horse Cannot be Seen without close examination. I therefore derected Sergt. Pryor Shannon Shabono & Bratten to incircle the Camp at Some distance around and find the tracks of the horses and prosue them, they Serched for tracks all the evening without finding which Course the horses had taken, the plains being so remarkably hard and dry as to render it impossible to See a track of a horse passing through the hard parts of them. begin to Suspect that they are taken by the Indians and taken over the hard plains to prevent our following them. my Suspicions is grounded on the improbibility of the horses leaveing the grass and rushes of the river bottoms of which they are very fond, and takeing imediately out into the open dry plains where the grass is but Short and dry. if they had Continued in the bottoms either up or down, their tracks Could be followed very well. I directed Labeech who understands traking very well to Set out early in the morning and find what rout the horses had taken if possible
Tuesday, July 22, 1806. The wind kept blowing strongly from the northeast, and just before dawn, it felt moderately cool. I sent Sergeant Pryor and Shabono to search for the horses, instructing them to go up the river as far as the first narrows and to look carefully for any tracks. They returned at 3 PM and told me they had gone the distance I directed but hadn’t seen any horses or tracks. The plains right outside the camp are so dry and hard that horse tracks can’t be seen without a close look. So, I instructed Sergeant Pryor, Shannon, Shabono, and Bratten to circle the camp at a distance and find the horses' tracks and follow them. They searched the area all evening but couldn’t determine which direction the horses had gone; the plains are so hard and dry that it’s impossible to see where a horse has passed through them. I’m starting to suspect that the Indians have taken the horses and led them over the hard plains to make it difficult for us to follow. My suspicion is based on the unlikelihood that the horses would leave the lush grass and rushes of the river bottoms, which they love, to head straight into the open, dry plains where the grass is sparse and dry. If they had stayed near the riverbank, whether upstream or downstream, their tracks would have been easy to follow. I told Labeech, who is good at tracking, to set out early in the morning and see if he could determine which route the horses took.
[Clark, July 23, 1806]
Wednesday 23rd July 1806. last night the wolves or dogs came into our Camp and eat the most of our dryed meat which was on a scaffold Labeech went out early agreeable to my directions of last evening. Sergt. Pryor and Windser also went out. Sgt. pryor found an Indian Mockerson and a Small piece of a roab, the mockerson worn out on the bottom & yet wet, and have every appearance of haveing been worn but a fiew hours before. those Indian Signs is Conclusive with me that they have taken the 24 horses which we lost on the night of the 10th instant, and that those who were about last night were in Serch of the ballance of our horses which they could not find as they had fortunately got into a Small Prarie Serounded with thick timber in the bottom. Labeech returned haveing taken a great Circle and informed me that he Saw the tracks of the horses makeing off into the open plains and were by the tracks going very fast. The Indians who took the horses bent their course reather down the river. the men finished both Canoes by 12 oClock to day, and I sent them to make Oars & get poles after which I sent Shields and Labeech to kill a fat Buffalow out of a gangue which has been in a fiew miles of us all day. I gave Sergt Pryor his instructions and a letter to Mr. Haney and directed that he G. Shannon & Windser take the remaining horses to the Mandans, where he is to enquire for Mr. H. Heney if at the establishments on the Assinniboin river to take 12 or 14 horses and proceed on to that place and deliver Mr. Heney the letter which is with a view to engage Mr. Heney to provale on some of the best informed and most influential Chiefs of the different bands of Sieoux to accompany us to the Seat of our Government with a view to let them See our population and resourses &c. which I believe is the Surest garentee of Savage fidelity to any nation that of a Governmt. possessing the power of punishing promptly every aggression. Sergt. Pryor is directed to leave the ballance of the horses with the grand Chief of the Mandans untill our arival at his village also to keep a journal of the of his rout courses distances water courss Soil production, & animals to be particularly noted. Shields and Labeech killed three buffalow two of them very fat I had as much of the meat Saved as we could Conveniently Carry. in the evening had the two Canoes put into the water and lashed together ores and everything fixed ready to Set out early in the morning, at which time I have derected Sergt. Pryor to Set out with the horses and proceed on to the enterance of the big horn river at which place the Canoes will meat him and Set him across the Rochejhone below the enterance of that river.
Wednesday, July 23, 1806. Last night, the wolves or dogs entered our camp and ate most of our dried meat that was stored on a scaffold. Labeech went out early as per my instructions from last night. Sergeant Pryor and Windser also went out. Sergeant Pryor found an Indian moccasin and a small piece of a robe; the moccasin was worn out on the bottom and still wet, showing clear signs that it had been worn just a few hours before. These Indian signs confirm for me that they took the 24 horses we lost on the night of the 10th, and those who were around last night were searching for the rest of our horses, which they couldn’t find as they had fortunately moved into a small prairie surrounded by thick timber at the bottom. Labeech returned after taking a long route and informed me that he saw tracks of the horses moving into the open plains, and from the tracks, they were going very fast. The Indians who took the horses headed downstream. The men finished both canoes by noon today, and I sent them to make oars and get poles. After that, I sent Shields and Labeech to hunt a fat buffalo from a herd that has been a few miles from us all day. I gave Sergeant Pryor his instructions and a letter to Mr. Haney and directed him, G. Shannon, and Windser to take the remaining horses to the Mandans. There, he is to ask for Mr. Haney at the establishments on the Assinniboin River, take 12 or 14 horses, and head to that location to deliver Mr. Haney the letter. This is intended to persuade Mr. Haney to bring along some of the best-informed and most influential chiefs of the various bands of Sioux to accompany us to the seat of our government, allowing them to see our population, resources, etc., as I believe this is the surest guarantee of Native loyalty to any nation that has the power to promptly punish any aggression. Sergeant Pryor is instructed to leave the remaining horses with the grand chief of the Mandans until we arrive at his village. He is also to keep a journal of his route, courses, distances, water sources, soil production, and animals, noting everything carefully. Shields and Labeech killed three buffalo, two of which were very fat. We saved as much of the meat as we could comfortably carry. In the evening, we put the two canoes into the water and lashed them together, getting oars and everything ready to set out early in the morning. At that time, I instructed Sergeant Pryor to leave with the horses and proceed to the entrance of the Bighorn River, where the canoes will meet him and take him across the Rochejhone below that river's entrance.
[Clark, July 23, 1806]
Speech for Yellowstone Indians Children. The Great Spirit has given a fair and bright day for us to meet together in his View that he may inspect us in this all we say and do.
Speech for Yellowstone Indians Children. The Great Spirit has given us a beautiful and sunny day to come together so that He may observe all that we say and do.
Children I take you all by the hand as the children of your Great father the President of the U. States of America who is the great chief of all the white people towards the riseing sun.
Children, I take all of you by the hand as the children of your great father, the President of the United States of America, who is the chief of all the white people toward the rising sun.
Children This Great Chief who is Benevolent, just, wise & bountifull has sent me and one other of his chiefs (who is at this time in the country of the Blackfoot Indians) to all his read children on the Missourei and its waters quite to the great lake of the West where the land ends and the sun sets on the face of the great water, to know their wants and inform him of them on our return.
Children, this great Chief who is kind, fair, wise, and generous has sent me and another of his chiefs (who is currently in the land of the Blackfoot Indians) to meet all his Red children along the Missouri River and its waters, all the way to the great lake in the West where the land ends and the sun sets on the vast water, to understand their needs and report back to him upon our return.
Children We have been to the great lake of the west and are now on our return to my country. I have seen all my read children quite to that great lake and talked with them, and taken them by the hand in the name of their great father the Great Chief of all the white people.
Children, we have visited the vast lake in the west and are now heading back to my homeland. I have met with all my beloved children at that great lake, spoken with them, and taken their hands in the name of their great father, the Great Chief of all the white people.
Children We did not see the ____ or the nations to the North. I have come across over high mountains and bad road to this river to see the ____ Natn. I have come down the river from the foot of the great snowey mountain to see you, and have looked in every detection for you, without seeing you untill now
Children We did not see the ____ or the nations to the North. I have traveled over high mountains and rough roads to reach this river to see the ____ Natn. I have come down the river from the base of the great snowy mountain to see you, and have searched everywhere for you, without seeing you until now.
Children I heard from some of your people ____ nights past by my horses who complained to me of your people haveing taken 24 of their cummerads.
Children, I heard from some of your people a few nights ago by my horses who complained to me that your people took 24 of their comrades.
Children The object of my comeing to see you is not to do you injurey but to do you good the Great Chief of all the white people who has more goods at his command than could be piled up in the circle of your camp, wishing that all his read children should be happy has sent me here to know your wants that he may supply them.
Children, I have come to see you not to harm you but to help you. The Great Chief of all the white people, who has more goods than could fit in the circle of your camp, wants all his red children to be happy. He has sent me here to understand your needs so that he can provide for them.
Children Your great father the Chief of the white people intends to build a house and fill it with such things as you may want and exchange with you for your skins & furs at a very low price. & has derected me to enquire of you, at what place would be most convenient for to build this house. and what articles you are in want of that he might send them imediately on my return
Children, your great father, the Chief of the white people, plans to build a house and fill it with items you might need. He wants to trade these for your skins and furs at a very low price. He has directed me to ask you where it would be best to build this house and what items you need so he can send them right away when I come back.
Children The people in my country is like the grass in your plains noumerous they are also rich and bountifull. and love their read brethren who inhabit the waters of the Missoure
Children, the people in my country are like the grass in your plains—numerous, rich, and bountiful. They also love their Red brethren who inhabit the waters of the Missouri.
Children I have been out from my country two winters, I am pore necked and nothing to keep of the rain. when I set out from my country I had a plenty but have given it all to my read children whome I have seen on my way to the Great Lake of the West. and have now nothing.
Children, I’ve been away from my country for two winters. I don’t have a warm coat and nothing to protect me from the rain. When I left my country, I had plenty, but I’ve given it all to my needy children whom I met on my way to the Great Lake of the West. Now, I have nothing.
Children Your Great father will be very sorry to here of the ____ stealing the horses of his Chiefs warrors whome he sent out to do good to his red children on the waters of Missoure.
Children, your great father will be very sorry to hear about the ____ stealing the horses from his chief warriors whom he sent out to help his red children on the waters of Missouri.
_____ their ears to his good counsels he will shut them and not let any goods & guns be brought to the red people. but to those who open their Ears to his counsels he will send every thing they want into their country. and build a house where they may come to and be supplyed whenever they wish.
_____ their ears to his good advice, he will close them off and prevent any goods and weapons from coming to the Native people. But to those who listen to his advice, he will send everything they need into their territory and build a place where they can come and be supplied whenever they want.
Children Your Great father the Chief of all the white people has derected me to inform his red children to be at peace with each other, and the white people who may come into your country under the protection of the Flag of your great father which you. those people who may visit you under the protection of that flag are good people and will do you no harm
Children, your great father, the Chief of all the white people, has directed me to let his red children know to be at peace with each other, and with the white people who may come into your country under the protection of the flag of your great father. Those people who visit you under that flag are good people and will do you no harm.
Children Your great father has detected me to tell you not to suffer your young and thoughtless men to take the horses or property of your neighbours or the white people, but to trade with them fairly and honestly, as those of his red children below.
Children, your great father has asked me to tell you not to let your young and reckless men take the horses or property of your neighbors or the white people. Instead, trade with them fairly and honestly, just like the red children do below.
Children The red children of your great father who live near him and have opened their ears to his counsels are rich and hapy have plenty of horses cows & Hogs fowls bread &c.&c. live in good houses, and sleep sound. and all those of his red children who inhabit the waters of the Missouri who open their ears to what I say and follow the counsels of their great father the President of the United States, will in a fiew years be as hapy as those mentioned &c.
Children, the Native American children of your great father who live near him and listen to his advice are rich and happy. They have plenty of horses, cows, pigs, chickens, bread, and more. They live in good houses and sleep soundly. All the Native American children who live by the Missouri River, who pay attention to what I say and follow the guidance of their great father, the President of the United States, will be as happy as those mentioned in a few years.
Children It is the wish of your Great father the Chief of all the white people that some 2 of the principal Chiefs of this ____ Nation should Visit him at his great city and receive from his own mouth. his good counsels, and from his own hands his abundant gifts, Those of his red children who visit him do not return with empty hands, he send them to their nation loaded with presents
Children, your Great Father, the Chief of all the white people, wishes for a couple of the principal Chiefs of this ____ Nation to visit him in his great city. He wants you to hear his wise advice directly from him and to receive his generous gifts firsthand. Those of his red children who visit him don’t return empty-handed; he sends them back to their nation with plenty of presents.
Children If any one two or 3 of your great chiefs wishes to visit your great father and will go with me, he will send you back next Summer loaded with presents and some goods for the nation. You will then see with your own eyes and here with your own years what the white people can do for you. they do not speak with two tongues nor promis what they can't perform
Children, if one, two, or three of your great leaders wants to visit your great father and is willing to come with me, he will send you back next summer loaded with gifts and some supplies for the nation. You will then see with your own eyes and hear with your own ears what the white people can do for you. They don't speak with forked tongues nor promise what they can't deliver.
Children Consult together and give me an answer as soon as possible your great father is anxious to here from (& see his red children who wish to visit him) I cannot stay but must proceed on & inform him &c.
Children, talk among yourselves and get back to me as soon as you can. Your great father is eager to hear from and see his red children who want to visit him. I can't stay but must continue on and inform him, etc.
[Clark, July 24, 1806]
Thursday 24th July 1806. had all our baggage put on board of the two Small Canoes which when lashed together is very Study and I am Convinced will the party I intend takeing down with me. at 8 A M. we Set out and proceeded on very well to a riffle about 1 mile above the enterance of Clarks fork or big horn river at this riffle the Small Canoes took in a good deel of water which obliged us to land a little above the enterance of this river which the ____ has called Clarks fork to dry our articles and bail the Canoes. I also had Buffalow Skin tacked on So as to prevent the waters flacking in between the Two canoes. This last River is 150 yards wide at it's Mouth and 100 a Short destance up the water of a light Muddy Colour and much Colder than that of the Rochejhone a Small Island is Situated imediately in its mouth, the direction of this river is South and East of that part of the rocky mountains which Can be seen from its enterance and which Seem to termonate in that direction.—I thought it probable that this might be the big horn river, and as the Rochejhone appeared to make a great bend to the N. I deturmined to Set the horses across on S. Side. one Chanel of the river passes under a high black bluff from one mile below the place we built the Canoes to within 3 miles of the enterance of Clarks fork when the bottoms widen on each side those on the Stard Side from 1/2 to a mile in width. river much divided by Islands. at 6 ms. below the fork I halted on a large Island Seperated from the Stard. Shore by a narrow Channel, on this This being a good place to Cross the river I deturmined to wait for Sergt. pryor and put him across the river at this place. on this Island I observd a large lodge the Same which Shannon informed me of a fiew days past. this Lodge a council lodge, it is of a Conocil form 60 feet diamuter at its base built of 20 poles each pole 21/2 feet in Secumpheranc and 45 feet Long built in the form of a lodge & covered with bushes. in this Lodge I observed a Cedar bush Sticking up on the opposit side of the lodge fronting the dore, on one side was a Buffalow head, and on the other Several Sticks bent and Stuck in the ground. a Stuffed Buffalow skin was Suspended from the Center with the back down. the top of those poles were deckerated with feathers of the Eagle & Calumet Eagle also Several Curious pieces of wood bent in Circleler form with sticks across them in form of a Griddle hung on tops of the lodge poles others in form of a large Sturrip. This Lodge was errected last Summer. It is Situated in the Center of a butifull Island thinly Covered with Cotton wood under which the earth which is rich is Covered with wild rye and a Species of grass resembling the bluegrass, and a mixture of Sweet grass which the Indian plat and ware around their necks for its cent which is of a Strong sent like that of the Vinella after Dinner I proceeded on passed the enterance of a Small Creek and Some wood on the Stard. Side where I met with Sergt. Pryor, Shannon & Windser with the horses they had but just arived at that place. Sergt. Pryor informed me that it would be impossible for the two men with him to drive on the horses after him without tireing all the good ones in pursute of the more indifferent to keep them on the Course. that in passing every gangue of buffalow Several of which he had met with, the loos horses as Soon as they Saw the Buffalow would imediately pursue them and run around them. All those that Speed suffient would head the buffalow and those of less Speed would pursue on as fast as they Could. he at length found that the only practiacable method would be for one of them to proceed on and when ever they Saw a gang of Buffalow to Scear them off before the horses got up. This disposition in the horses is no doubt owing to their being frequently exercised in chasing different animals by their former owners the Indians as it is their Custom to chase every Speces of wild animal with horses, for which purpose they train all their horses. I had the horses drove across the river and Set Sergt. Pryor and his party across. H. Hall who cannot Swim expressed a Wiliness to proceed on with Sergt. Pryor by land, and as another man was necessary to assist in driveing on the horses, but observed he was necked, I gave him one of my two remaining Shirts a par of Leather Legins and 3 pr. of mockersons which equipt him Completely and Sent him on with the party by land to the Mandans. I proceeded on the river much better than above the enterance of the Clarks fork deep and the Current regularly rapid from 2 to 300 yards in width where it is all together, much divided by islands maney of which are large and well Supplyed with Cotton wood trees, Some of them large, Saw emenc number of Deer Elk and buffalow on the banks. Some beaver. I landed on the Lard Side walked out into the bottom and Killd the fatest Buck I every Saw, Shields killed a deer and my man York killed a Buffalow Bull, as he informed me for his tongue and marrow bones. for me to mention or give an estimate of the differant Spcies of wild animals on this river particularly Buffalow, Elk Antelopes & Wolves would be increditable. I shall therefore be silent on the Subject further. So it is we have a great abundance of the best of meat. we made 70 ms. to day Current rapid and much divided by islands. Campd a little below Pryers river of 35 yds. on S E.
Thursday, July 24, 1806. We loaded all our bags onto two small canoes, which are sturdy when tied together. I'm sure they'll hold the group I plan to take with me. At 8 AM, we set out and made good progress until we reached a riffle about a mile above the entrance of Clark's Fork, or Bighorn River. At this riffle, the small canoes took on quite a bit of water, so we had to land a little above the river's entrance, which the ____ has called Clark's Fork, to dry our belongings and bail out the canoes. I also had buffalo skin attached to prevent water from splashing between the two canoes. This river is 150 yards wide at its mouth and about 100 yards wide a short distance upstream. The water is a light muddy color and much colder than that of the Rochejhone. A small island sits right at its mouth, and the river flows southeast from that part of the Rocky Mountains visible from its entrance, which seems to end in that direction. I thought it might be the Bighorn River, and since the Rochejhone appeared to make a significant bend to the north, I decided to move the horses across to the south side. One channel of the river flows under a high black bluff from about a mile below where we built the canoes to within three miles of the entrance of Clark's Fork, where the banks widen on each side, with those on the starboard side being between half a mile to a mile wide. The river is heavily divided by islands. Six miles below the fork, I stopped on a large island separated from the starboard shore by a narrow channel. This spot was a good place to cross the river, so I decided to wait for Sergeant Pryor and help him cross here. On this island, I noticed a large lodge, the same one Shannon had told me about a few days ago. This lodge is a council lodge, 60 feet in diameter at the base, built from 20 poles, each 2.5 feet in circumference and 45 feet long, arranged like a lodge and covered with bushes. In this lodge, I saw a cedar bush sticking up on the opposite side, facing the door. On one side was a buffalo head, and on the other, several sticks were bent and stuck in the ground. A stuffed buffalo skin was hung in the center with the back down. The tops of the poles were decorated with eagle feathers and calumet eagle feathers, along with several curious pieces of wood bent in circular forms with sticks arranged like a griddle hung from the tops of the lodge poles, and others shaped like a large stirrup. This lodge was built last summer. It is located in the center of a beautiful island, lightly covered with cottonwood trees, under which the rich earth is covered with wild rye and a type of grass resembling bluegrass, mixed with sweetgrass, which the Indians plant and wear around their necks for its scent, which is strong like vanilla. After lunch, I moved on, passing the entrance of a small creek and some woods on the starboard side, where I encountered Sergeant Pryor, Shannon, and Windser with the horses, who had just arrived. Sergeant Pryor informed me that it would be impossible for the two men with him to drive the horses after him without tiring out all the good ones while chasing after the less capable to keep them on course. He noted that as they passed every herd of buffalo, many they encountered, the loose horses would immediately chase the buffalo as soon as they spotted them, running around them. All the faster ones would head toward the buffalo, while the slower ones would pursue as quickly as they could. Eventually, he concluded that the only practical approach would be for one of them to proceed ahead, and whenever they spotted a herd of buffalo, they should scare them off before the horses got too close. This tendency in the horses is likely due to their being frequently exercised in chasing various animals by their previous owners, the Indians, as it's customary for them to chase every species of wild animal with horses, which they train all their horses for. I had the horses driven across the river and helped Sergeant Pryor and his party cross. H. Hall, who can't swim, expressed a desire to go with Sergeant Pryor by land, and since another person was needed to help drive the horses, he mentioned he was without clothes. I gave him one of my remaining shirts, a pair of leather leggings, and three pairs of moccasins, fully equipping him and sending him with the party to the Mandans. I continued on the river, which was much better than above the entrance of Clark's Fork—deep, with a current of regular rapids, measuring 200 to 300 yards in width where it's all together, heavily divided by islands, many of which are large and well-stocked with cottonwood trees, some of them sizable. I saw a tremendous number of deer, elk, and buffalo on the banks, as well as some beaver. I landed on the left side, walked into the bottom, and killed the fattest buck I’ve ever seen. Shields killed a deer, and my man York killed a buffalo bull, as he informed me, for its tongue and marrow bones. I could hardly describe or estimate the different species of wild animals in this river, particularly buffalo, elk, antelopes, and wolves; it would be unbelievable. So, I’ll remain quiet on the matter. We indeed have a great abundance of the best meat. We made 70 miles today, with the current rapid and heavily divided by islands. We camped a little below Pryors River, which is 35 yards wide, on the southeast side.
[Clark, July 25, 1806]
Friday 25th July 1806. We Set out at Sunrise and proceeded on very well for three hours. Saw a large gange of Buffalow on the Lard Bank. I concluded to halt and kill a fat one, dureing which time Some brackfast was ordered to be Cooked. we killed 2 Buffalow and took as much of their flesh as I wished. Shields killed two fat deer and after a delay of one hour and a half we again proceeded on. and had not proceeded far before a heavy shower of rain pored down upon us, and the wind blew hard from the S W. the wind increased and the rain continued to fall. I halted on the Stard. Side had Some logs set up on end close together and Covered with deerskins to keep off the rain, and a large fire made to dry ourselves.
Friday, July 25, 1806. We set out at sunrise and made good progress for three hours. We spotted a large herd of buffalo on the left bank. I decided to stop and hunt a fat one, while some breakfast was being prepared. We killed 2 buffalo and took as much of their meat as I wanted. Shields shot two fat deer, and after a delay of an hour and a half, we continued on. We hadn't gone far when a heavy downpour hit us, and the wind picked up hard from the southwest. The wind got stronger and the rain kept falling. I stopped on the right side, set up some logs standing close together, and covered them with deer hides to shield us from the rain, and we built a big fire to dry off.
the rain continued moderately untill near twelve oClock when it Cleared away and become fair. the wind Contined high untill 2 P M. I proceeded on after the rain lay a little and at 4 P M arived at a remarkable rock Situated in an extensive bottom on the Stard. Side of the river & 250 paces from it. this rock I ascended and from it's top had a most extensive view in every direction. This rock which I shall Call Pompy's Tower is 200 feet high and 400 paces in secumphrance and only axcessable on one Side which is from the N. E the other parts of it being a perpendicular Clift of lightish Coloured gritty rock on the top there is a tolerable Soil of about 5 or 6 feet thick Covered with Short grass. The Indians have made 2 piles of Stone on the top of this Tower. The nativs have ingraved on the face of this rock the figures of animals &c. near which I marked my name and the day of the month & year. From the top of this Tower I Could discover two low Mountains & the Rocky Mts. covered with Snow S W. one of them appeard to be extencive and bore S. 15° E. about 40 miles. the other I take to be what the indians Call the Little wolf Mtn. I can only see the Southern extremity of it which bears N 55° W about 35 Miles. The plains to the South rise from the distance of about 6 miles the width of the bottom gradually to the mountains in that derection. a large Creek with an extencive Vally the direction of which is S. 25° E. meanders boutifully through this plain. a range of high land Covered with pine appears to run in a N. & S. direction approaching the river below. on the Northerly Side of the river high romantic Clifts approach &jut over the water for Some distance both above and below. a large Brooks which at this time has Some running muddy water falls in to the Rochejhone imediately opposit Pompys Tower. back from the river for Some distance on that Side the hills are ruged & some pine back the plains are open and extensive. after Satisfying my Self Sufficiently in this delightfull prospect of the extensive Country around, and the emence herds of Buffalow, Elk and wolves in which it abounded, I decended and proceeded on a fiew miles, Saw a gang of about 40 Big horn animals fired at them and killed 2 on the Sides of the rocks which we did not get. I directed the Canoes to land, and I walked up through a crevis in the rocks almost inaxcessiable and killed 2 of those animals one a large doe and the other a yearlin Buck. I wished very much to kill a large buck, had there been one with the gang I Should have killd. him. dureing the time the men were getting the two big horns which I had killed to the river I employed my Self in getting pieces of the rib of a fish which was Semented within the face of the rock this rib is about 3 inchs in Secumpherance about the middle it is 3 feet in length tho a part of the end appears to have been broken off I have Several peces of this rib the bone is neither decayed nor petrified but very rotten. the part which I could not get out may be Seen, it is about 6 or 7 Miles below Pompys Tower in the face of the Lard. Clift about 20 feet above the water. after getting the big horn on board &c I proceeded on a Short distance and encamped, an earlyer than I intended on accout of a heavy cloud which was comeing up from the S. S W. and Some appearance of a Violent wind. I walked out and killed a Small Buck for his Skin which the party are in want of for Clothes. about Sunset the wind blew hard from the W. and Some little rain. I encamped on the Stard. Side imediately below the enteranc Shannons River about 22 Yards wide, and at this time discharges a great portion of water which is very Muddy. emence herds of Buffalow about our as it is now running time with those animals the bulls keep Such a grunting nois which is very loud and disagreeable Sound that we are compelled to Scear them away before we can Sleep. the men fire Several Shot at them and Scear them away.
The rain continued moderately until around twelve o'clock when it cleared up and became fair. The wind remained strong until 2 PM. I moved on after the rain settled a bit and at 4 PM arrived at a remarkable rock situated in a large flat area on the south side of the river and 250 paces from it. I climbed this rock, which I will call Pompy's Tower, and from its top, I had a vast view in every direction. This rock is 200 feet high and has a circumference of 400 paces, accessible only from one side, which is the northeast; the other sides are steep cliffs of light-colored gritty rock. On top, there's decent soil about 5 or 6 feet thick covered with short grass. The Native Americans have built two piles of stones on top of this tower. They have carved figures of animals and other designs into the face of the rock, near which I marked my name and the date. From the top of this tower, I could see two low mountains and the Rocky Mountains covered with snow to the southwest. One of them appeared extensive and bore S. 15° E., about 40 miles away. The other seems to be what the natives call Little Wolf Mountain. I could only see its southern tip, which bore N 55° W, about 35 miles away. The plains to the south rise gradually from about 6 miles away, leading toward the mountains in that direction. A large creek with an extensive valley, which flows S. 25° E., meanders beautifully through this plain. A range of high land covered with pine appears to stretch in a north-south direction, approaching the river below. On the north side of the river, high, rugged cliffs come close to the water for some distance both above and below. A large creek, which at this time has some muddy water flowing, empties into the Rocherhone directly across from Pompy's Tower. Back from the river on that side, the hills are rugged, and some pine trees back the open and extensive plains. After taking in the delightful view of the vast countryside and the massive herds of buffalo, elk, and wolves abundant here, I descended and moved on a few miles, spotting a group of about 40 bighorn sheep. I shot at them and killed two on the sides of the rocks, which we couldn't retrieve. I directed the canoes to land and walked up through a nearly inaccessible crevice in the rocks, killing two of those animals—a large doe and a yearling buck. I really wanted to kill a large buck; if one had been with the group, I would have gotten him. While the men were retrieving the two bighorns I had killed, I occupied myself by collecting pieces of a fish rib embedded in the rock. This rib is about 3 inches in circumference and 3 feet long, although a part of the end seems to have been broken off. I have several pieces of this rib, which is neither decayed nor petrified but very rotten. The part I couldn't get out is still visible, about 6 or 7 miles below Pompy's Tower, in the rock face about 20 feet above the water. After getting the bighorns on board, I proceeded a short distance and set up camp earlier than I intended because a heavy cloud was coming in from the south-southwest, along with signs of a violent wind. I went out and killed a small buck for its skin, which the group needed for clothing. Around sunset, the wind was blowing hard from the west, and there was some light rain. I camped on the south side, just below the entrance of Shannon's River, which is about 22 yards wide and currently discharges a large amount of very muddy water. Huge herds of buffalo surrounded us, as this is their breeding season; the bulls make such loud and unpleasant grunting noises that we had to scare them away before we could sleep. The men fired several shots to drive them off.
[Clark, July 26, 1806]
Saturday 26th July 1806. Set out this morning very early proceeded on Passed Creeks very well. the Current of the river reagulilarly Swift much divided by Stoney islands and bars also handsome Islands Covered with Cotton wood the bottoms extensive on the Stard. Side on the Lard. the Clifts of high land border the river, those clifts are composed of a whitish rock of an excellent grit for Grindstones. The Country back on each Side is wavering lands with Scattering pine. passed 2 Small Brooks on the Stard. Side and two large ones on the Lard. Side. I shot a Buck from the Canoe and killed one other on a Small Island. and late in the evening passed a part of the river which was rock under the Lard. Clifts fortunately for us we found an excellent Chanel to pass down on the right of a Stony Island half a mile below this bad place, we arived at the enterance of Big Horn River on the Stard. Side here I landed imediately in the point which is a Sof mud mixed with the Sand and Subject to overflow for Some distance back in between the two rivers. I walked up the big horn 1/2 a mile and crossed over to the lower Side, and formed a Camp on a high point. I with one of my men Labeech walked up the N E Side of Big horn river 7 miles to th enterance of a Creek which falls in on the N E. Side and is 28 yds wide Some running water which is very muddy this Creek I call Muddy Creek Some fiew miles above this Creek the river bent around to the East of South. The Courses as I assended it as follows Viz:
Saturday, July 26, 1806. We set out early this morning and made good progress. The creeks were flowing nicely. The current of the river was consistently swift, frequently divided by stony islands and bars, along with picturesque islands covered in cottonwood. The bottoms on the starboard side were extensive, while the cliffs of high land bordered the river; those cliffs were made of a whitish rock that was excellent for grindstones. The land on either side was rolling with scattered pine trees. We passed two small brooks on the starboard side and two larger ones on the larboard side. I shot a buck from the canoe and killed another on a small island. Late in the evening, we passed a rocky section of the river along the larboard cliffs. Luckily, we found a great channel to go down on the right of a stony island, half a mile below that rough spot. We arrived at the entrance of the Big Horn River on the starboard side, and I landed immediately at the point, which had soft mud mixed with sand and was prone to overflow for some distance back between the two rivers. I walked up the Big Horn for half a mile and crossed over to the lower side, setting up camp on a high point. One of my men, Labeech, and I walked seven miles up the northeast side of the Big Horn River to the entrance of a creek that flows in on the northeast side. It was 28 yards wide with some running water that was very muddy, so I called it Muddy Creek. A few miles above this creek, the river curved around to the east of south. The courses, as I ascended it, were as follows:
The bottoms of the Big Horn river are extencive and Covered with timber principally Cotton. it's Current is regularly Swift, like the Missouri, it washes away its banks on one Side while it forms extensive Sand bars on the other. Contains much less portion of large gravel than the R. Rochjhone and its water more mudy and of a brownish colour, while that of the rochejhone is of a lightish Colour. the width of those two rivers are very nearly the Same imediately at their enterances the river Rochejhone much the deepest and contain most water. I measured the debth of the bighorn quit across a 1/2 a mile above its junction and found it from 5 to 7 feet only while that of the River is in the deepest part 10 or 12 feet water on the lower Side of the bighorn is extencive boutifull and leavil bottom thinly covered with Cotton wood under which there grows great quantities of rose bushes. I am informed by the Menetarres Indians and others that this River takes its rise in the Rocky mountains with the heads of the river plate and at no great distance from the river Rochejhone and passes between the Coat Nor or Black Mountains and the most Easterly range of Rocky Mountains. it is very long and Contains a great perpotion of timber on which there is a variety of wild animals, perticularly the big horn which are to be found in great numbers on this river. Buffalow, Elk, Deer and Antelopes are plenty and the river is Said to abound in beaver. it is inhabited by a great number of roveing Indians of the Crow Nation, the paunch Nation and the Castahanas all of those nations who are Subdivided rove and prosue the Buffalow of which they make their principal food, their Skins together with those of the Big horn and Antilope Serve them for Clothes. This river is Said to be navagable a long way for perogus without falls and waters a fine rich open Country. it is 200 yds water & 1/4 of a Me. wd. I returned to Camp a little after dark, haveing killed one deer, finding my Self fatigued went to bead without my Supper. Shields killed 2 Bull & 3 Elk.
The bottom of the Big Horn River is extensive and covered in timber, mainly cottonwood. Its current is regularly swift, like the Missouri, eroding banks on one side while creating large sandbars on the other. It has much less large gravel than the River Rochejhone, and its water is muddier with a brownish color, whereas Rochejhone’s is lighter. The widths of these two rivers are very similar right at their entrances, but the River Rochejhone is much deeper and carries more water. I measured the depth of the Big Horn about half a mile above its junction and found it to be only 5 to 7 feet, while in the deepest part of the River Rochejhone, it reaches 10 or 12 feet. On the lower side of the Big Horn, the landscape is extensive, beautiful, and flat, thinly covered with cottonwood, under which many rose bushes grow. I’ve been informed by the Menetarres Indians and others that this river springs from the Rocky Mountains near the headwaters of the River Plate, not far from the River Rochejhone, and flows between the Coat Nor or Black Mountains and the easternmost range of the Rocky Mountains. It is very long and has a significant amount of timber, which is home to a variety of wild animals, particularly the big horn sheep that can be found in large numbers along this river. Buffalo, elk, deer, and antelope are plentiful, and the river is said to be rich in beaver. It is inhabited by many wandering Indians from the Crow Nation, the Paunch Nation, and the Castahanas, all of whom are subdivided and roam to hunt buffalo, which is their main source of food. Their skins, along with those of the big horn sheep and antelope, provide them with clothing. It is said that this river is navigable for a long way for canoes without any falls and waters a beautiful, rich, open country. It is 200 yards wide and a quarter of a mile long. I returned to camp a little after dark, having killed one deer. Feeling fatigued, I went to bed without supper. Shields killed 2 bulls and 3 elk.
[Clark, July 27, 1806]
Sunday 27th July 1806 I marked my name with red paint on a Cotton tree near my Camp, and Set out at an early hour and proceeded on very well the river is much wider from 4 to 600 yards much divided by Islands and Sand bars, passed a large dry Creek at 15 miles and halted at the enterance of River 50 yards wide on the Lard Side I call R. Labeech killed 4 Buffalow and Saved as much of their flesh as we could Carry took brackfast. The Buffalow and Elk is estonishingly noumerous on the banks of the river on each Side, particularly the Elk which lay on almost every point in large gang and are So jintle that we frequently pass within 20 or 30 paces of them without their being the least alarmd. the buffalow are Generally at a greater distance from the river, and keep a continueing bellowing in every direction, much more beaver Sign than above the bighorn. I Saw Several of those animals on the bank to day. the antilopes are Scerce as also the bighorns and the deer by no means So plenty as they were near the Rocky mountains. when we pass the Big horn I take my leave of the view of the tremendious chain of Rocky Mountains white with Snow in view of which I have been Since the 1st of May last.
Sunday, July 27, 1806. I marked my name with red paint on a cotton tree near my camp and set out early. I had a good journey; the river is much wider, ranging from 400 to 600 yards, and is divided by islands and sandbars. I passed a large dry creek after 15 miles and stopped at the entrance of a river, which is 50 yards wide on the left side, which I named R. Labeech. I killed 4 buffalo and saved as much of their meat as we could carry, then had breakfast. The buffalo and elk are astonishingly numerous along the banks of the river on both sides, especially the elk, which can be found lying on almost every point in large groups and are so gentle that we can often pass within 20 or 30 paces of them without alarming them at all. The buffalo are generally farther away from the river, continuously bellowing in every direction. There is much more beaver sign compared to upstream of the bighorns. I saw several of those animals on the bank today. The antelope are scarce, as are the bighorns, and deer are not nearly as plentiful as they were near the Rocky Mountains. As we passed the bighorn, I took my leave of the stunning view of the massive chain of snowy Rocky Mountains, which I’ve been looking at since May 1st.
about Sunset I Shot a very large fat buck elk from the Canoe near which I encamped, and was near being bit by a rattle Snake. Shields killed a Deer & a antilope to day for the Skins which the party is in want of for Clothes. this river below the big horn river resembles the Missouri in almost every perticular except that it's islands are more noumerous & Current more rapid, it's banks are generally low and falling in the bottoms on the Stard. Side low and exteneive and Covered with timber near the river such as Cotton wood willow of the different Species rose bushes and Grapevines together with the red berry or Buffalow Grees bushes & a species of shoemake with dark brown back of those bottoms the Country rises gradually to about 100 feet and has Some pine. back is leavel plains. on the Lard Side the river runs under the clifts and Bluffs of high which is from 70 to 150 feet in hight and near the river is Some Scattering low pine back the plains become leavel and extencive. the Clifts are Composed of a light gritty Stone which is not very hard. and the round stone which is mixed with the Sand and formes bars is much Smaller than they appeared from above the bighorn, and may here be termed Gravel. the Colour of the water is a yellowish white and less muddy than the Missouri below the mouth of this river.
about Sunset I shot a very large, fat buck elk from the canoe near where I camped, and I almost got bitten by a rattlesnake. Shields killed a deer and an antelope today for the skins, which the group needs for clothes. This river below the Bighorn River is similar to the Missouri in almost every way except that its islands are more numerous and the current is faster. Its banks are generally low and eroding, with extensive bottoms on the starboard side that are low and covered with timber near the river, such as cottonwood, various types of willows, rose bushes, and grapevines, along with red berry or buffalo grass bushes and a type of shrub with a dark brown bark. Beyond those bottoms, the land gradually rises to about 100 feet and has some pine. The back is flat plains. On the larboard side, the river runs along the cliffs and bluffs, which are high, ranging from 70 to 150 feet, and near the river are some scattered low pines. The plains become flat and extensive. The cliffs are made of a light, gritty stone that isn’t very hard, and the round stones mixed with sand that form bars are much smaller than they appeared from above the Bighorn and can be referred to as gravel. The color of the water is a yellowish-white and less muddy than the Missouri below the mouth of this river.
[Clark, July 28, 1806]
Monday 28th July 1806. Set out this morning at day light and proceeded on glideing down this Smooth Stream passing maney Isld. and Several Creeks and brooks at 6 miles passed a Creek or brook of 80 yards wide on the N W. Side Containing but little water. 6 miles lower passed a small Creek 20 yds wide on the Stard Side 18 Miles lower passed a large dry creek on the Lard Side 5 Miles lower passed a river 70 yards wide Containing but little water on the Lard Side which I call Table Creek from the tops of Several mounds in the Plains to the N W. resembling a table. four miles Still lower I arived at the enterance of a river 100 yards wide back of a Small island on the South Side. it contains Some Cotton wood timber and has a bold Current, it's water like those of all other Streams which I have passed in the Canoes are muddy. I take this river to be the one the Indians Call the Little Big Horn river. The Clifts on the South Side of the Rochejhone are Generally compd. of a yellowish Gritty Soft rock, whilest those of the N. is light Coloured and much harder in the evening I passd. Straters of Coal in the banks on either Side those on the Stard. Bluffs was about 30 feet above the water and in 2 vanes from 4 to 8 feet thick, in a horozontal position. the Coal Contained in the Lard Bluffs is in Several vaines of different hights and thickness. this Coal or Carbonated wood is like that of the Missouri of an inferior quallity. passed a large Creek on the Stard. Side between the 1st and 2nd Coal Bluffs passed Several Brooks the chanel of them were wide and contained but little running water, and encamped on the upper point of a Small island opposit the enterance of a Creek 25 Yards wide on the Stard. Side with water.
Monday, July 28, 1806. I set out this morning at dawn and glided down the smooth stream, passing many islands and several creeks and brooks. Six miles in, I passed a creek or brook about 80 yards wide on the northwest side that had very little water. Six miles further down, I passed a small creek 20 yards wide on the starboard side. Eighteen miles later, I passed a large dry creek on the port side. Five miles on, I encountered a river 70 yards wide with little water on the port side, which I named Table Creek due to the tops of several mounds in the plains to the northwest that resemble a table. Four miles further down, I reached the entrance of a river 100 yards wide behind a small island on the south side. It has some cottonwood timber and a strong current, and like all the other streams I've passed in the canoes, its water is muddy. I believe this river is what the Indians call the Little Big Horn River. The cliffs on the south side of the Rochejhone are generally made up of a yellowish, gritty soft rock, while those on the north side are lighter in color and much harder. In the evening, I passed layers of coal in the banks on both sides; those on the starboard bluffs were about 30 feet above the water and in two veins, ranging from 4 to 8 feet thick, positioned horizontally. The coal found in the port bluffs consists of several veins of different heights and thicknesses. This coal, or carbonized wood, is similar to that of the Missouri but of inferior quality. I passed a large creek on the starboard side between the first and second coal bluffs, then several brooks, whose channels were wide and contained very little running water. I camped at the upper point of a small island opposite the entrance of a creek 25 yards wide on the starboard side with water.
The Elk on the banks of the river were So abundant that we have not been out of Sight of them to day. J Shields killed 2 deer & Labeech killed an Antilope to day. the antilopes and deer are not Abundant. Beaver plenty
The elk by the river were so plentiful that we haven't been out of sight of them today. J. Shields killed 2 deer, and Labeech killed an antelope today. The antelopes and deer aren't abundant. There are plenty of beavers.
[Clark, July 29, 1806]
Tuesday 29th July 1806 a Slight rain last night with hard thunder and Sharp lightening accompanied with a violent N. E. wind. I Set out early this morning wind So hard a head that w made but little way. in the fore part of the day, I saw great numbers of Buffalow on the banks. the country on either Side is like that of yesterday. passed three large dry Brooks on the Stard. Side and four on the Lard Side. great quantities of Coal in all the hills I passed this day. late in the evening I arived at the enterance of a River which I take to be the Lazeka or Tongue River it discharges itself on the Stard. Side and is 150 yards wide of water the banks are much wider. I intended to encamp on an eligable Spot imediately below this river, but finding that its water So muddy and worm as to render it very disagreeable to drink, I crossed the rochejhone and encamped on an island close to the Lard. Shore. The water of this river is nearly milk worm very muddy and of a lightish brown Colour. the Current rapid and the Chanel Contains great numbers of Snags. near its enterance there is great quantities of wood Such as is common in the low bottoms of the Rochejhone and Missouri. tho I believe that the Country back thro which this river passes is an open one where the water is exposed to the Sun which heats it in its passage. it is Shallow and throws out great quantities of mud and Some cors gravel. below this river and on the Stard Side at a fiew Miles from the Rochejhone the hills are high and ruged Containing Coal in great quantities. Beaver is very plenty on this part of the Rochejhone. The river widens I think it may be generally Calculated at from 500" yards to half a mile in width more Sand and gravelly Bars than above. cought 3 cat fish. they wer Small and fat. also a Soft Shell turtle.
Tuesday, July 29, 1806: There was a light rain last night with heavy thunder and sharp lightning, accompanied by a strong northeast wind. I set out early this morning, but the wind was so strong against us that we made little progress. In the early part of the day, I saw a large number of buffalo on the banks. The land on either side is similar to what I saw yesterday. I passed three large dry creeks on the starboard side and four on the port side. There is a lot of coal in all the hills I passed today. Late in the evening, I arrived at the entrance of a river, which I believe is the Lazeka or Tongue River. It flows on the starboard side and is about 150 yards wide, with banks that are much wider. I intended to camp at a suitable spot just below this river, but I found the water to be so muddy and warm that it was very unpleasant to drink. So, I crossed the Rochejhone and camped on an island close to the port shore. The water of this river is nearly warm milk, very muddy, and a light brown color. The current is fast, and the channel has a lot of snags. Near its entrance, there’s a significant amount of wood, typical of the low bottoms of the Rochejhone and Missouri. I believe the land through which this river flows is open, allowing the sun to heat the water as it flows. It is shallow and produces a lot of mud and some coarse gravel. Below this river, a few miles from the Rochejhone on the starboard side, the hills are high and rugged, containing a lot of coal. There are plenty of beavers in this part of the Rochejhone. The river widens; I think it generally ranges from 500 yards to half a mile in width, with more sand and gravel bars than above. I caught three small, fat catfish and also a soft-shelled turtle.
[Clark, July 30, 1806]
Friday 30th July 1806 Set out early this morning at 12 miles arived at the Commencement of Shoals the Chanel on the Stard Side near a high bluff. passed a Succession of those Shoals for 6 miles the lower of which was quit across the river and appeared to have a decent of about 3 feet. here we were Compeled to let the Canoes down by hand for fear of their Strikeing a rock under water and Splitting. This is by far the wost place which I have Seen on this river from the Rocky mountains to this place a distance of 694 miles by water. a Perogu or large Canoe would with Safty pass through the worst of those Shoals, which I call the Buffalow Sholes from the Circumstance of one of those animals being in them. the rock which passes the river at those Sholes appear hard and gritty of a dark brown Colour. the Clifts on the Stard. Side is about 100 feet in hight, on the Lard Side the Country is low and the bottom rises gradually back. here is the first appearance of Birnt hills which I have Seen on this river they are at a distance from the river on the Lard Side. I landed at the enterance of a dry Creek on the Lard side below the Shoals and took brackfast. Those Dry Rivers, Creeks &c are like those of the Missouri which take their rise in and are the Conveyance of the water from those plains. they have the appearanc of dischargeing emence torrents of water. the late rains which has fallen in the plains raised Sudenly those Brooks which receive the water of those plains on which those Suden & heavy Showers of rain must have fallen, Several of which I have Seen dischargeing those waters, whiles those below heading or takeing their rise in the Same neighbourhood, as I passed them appears to have latterly been high. those Broods discharge emencely of mud also, which Contributes much to the muddiness of the river. after Brackfast proceeded on the river much narrower than above from 3 to 400 yards wide only and only a fiew scattering trees to be Seen on the banks. at 20 miles below the Buffalow Shoals passed a rapid which is by no means dangerous, it has a number of large rocks in different parts of the river which Causes high waves a very good Chanel on the Lard. Side. this rapid I call Bear rapid from the Circumstance of a bears being on a rock in the Middle of this rapid when I arived at it. a violent Storm from the N. W. obliged us to land imediately below this rapid, draw up the Canoes and take Shelter in an old Indian Lodge above the enterance of a river which is nearly dry it has laterly been very high and Spread over nearly 1/4 a mile in width. its Chanel is 88 yards and in this there is not more water than could pass through an inch auger hole. I call it Yorks dry R. after the rain and wind passed over I proceeded on at 7 Miles passed the enterance of a river the water of which is 100 yds wide, the bead of this river nearly 1/4 of a mile this river is Shallow and the water very muddy and of the Colour of the banks a darkish brown. I observe great quantities of red Stone thrown out of this river that from the appearance of the hills at a distance on its lower Side induced me to call this red Stone river. as the water was disagreeably muddy I could not Camp on that Side below its mouth. however I landed at its enteranc and Sent out and killed two fat Cows, and took as much of the flesh as the Canoes would conveniently Carry and Crossed the river and encamped at the enterance of a Brook on the Lard. Side under a large Spredding Cotton tree. The river on which we passed to day is not So wide as above containing but fiew islands with a Small quantity of Cotton timber. no timber of any kind to be Seen on the high lands on either Side.
Friday, July 30, 1806 Set out early this morning, covering 12 miles and arriving at the beginning of the shoals. The channel on the starboard side is near a high bluff. We passed a series of those shoals for 6 miles, the lowest of which crossed the river and seemed to drop about 3 feet. Here, we had to lower the canoes by hand to avoid running aground on submerged rocks and risking damage. This is by far the worst place I've seen on this river from the Rocky Mountains to this point, a distance of 694 miles by water. A pirogue, or large canoe, could safely navigate through the worst of these shoals, which I call the Buffalo Shoals because I spotted one of those animals there. The rocks that run through the river at these shoals appear hard and gritty, a dark brown color. The cliffs on the starboard side rise about 100 feet, while on the port side, the terrain is low and gradually climbs back. Here, I saw the first signs of burnt hills along this river, located a bit inland on the port side. I landed at the entrance of a dry creek on the port side below the shoals and had breakfast. These dry rivers, creeks, etc., are similar to those of the Missouri, rising from and channeling water from those plains. They have the appearance of discharging immense torrents of water. Recent rains on the plains have suddenly increased the water levels of these brooks, which gather water from those plains where heavy showers must have fallen. Several are currently discharging this water, while those downstream that originate in the same area appear to have also been high lately. These brooks also discharge a lot of mud, which contributes to the muddiness of the river. After breakfast, we continued on the river, which is much narrower than before, only about 300 to 400 yards wide, with only a few scattered trees on the banks. Twenty miles downstream from the Buffalo Shoals, we passed a rapid that is by no means dangerous; it has many large rocks scattered throughout, creating high waves, but there's a very good channel on the port side. I call this rapid Bear Rapid because a bear was on a rock in the middle when I arrived. A violent storm from the northwest forced us to land just below this rapid, pull up the canoes, and take shelter in an old Indian lodge above the entrance of a river that is almost dry, having recently been very high, spreading nearly a quarter of a mile wide. Its channel is 88 yards wide, and there's not more water flowing through it than could pass through an inch auger hole. I call it York's Dry River. After the rain and wind passed, I continued on for 7 miles, passing the entrance of a river that's 100 yards wide, with a riverbed nearly a quarter of a mile wide. This river is shallow, with very muddy water that matches the banks— a darkish brown. I noticed large quantities of red stone scattered along the river, and based on the appearance of the hills in the distance on its lower side, I decided to call it Red Stone River. Since the water was unpleasantly muddy, I couldn't camp on that side below its mouth. However, I landed at its entrance and sent out to hunt, successfully killing two fat cows, taking as much meat as the canoes could carry. I crossed the river and set up camp at the entrance of a brook on the port side under a large spreading cotton tree. The river we traveled today is not as wide as before, containing only a few islands with a small amount of cottonwood timber. There’s no timber to be seen on the high lands on either side.
In the evening below the enterance of redstone river I observed great numbers of Buffalow feeding on the plains, elk on the points and antilopes. I also Saw Some of the Bighorn animals at a distance on the hills. Gibson is now able to walk, he walked out this evening and killed an antilope.
In the evening below the entrance of Redstone River, I saw a large number of buffalo grazing on the plains, elk on the points, and antelopes. I also spotted some bighorn sheep in the distance on the hills. Gibson can now walk; he went out this evening and killed an antelope.
[Clark, July 31, 1806]
Saturday 31st of July 1806 I was much disturbed last night by the noise of the buffalow which were about me. one gang Swam the river near our Camp which alarmed me a little for fear of their Crossing our Canoes and Splitting them to pieces. Set out as usial about Sun rise passed a rapid which I call wolf rapid from the Circumstance of one of those animals being at the rapid. here the river approaches the high mountanious Country on the N W. Side those hills appear to be composed of various Coloured earth and Coal without much rock I observe Several Conical mounds which appear to have been burnt. this high Country is washed into Curious formed mounds & hills and is cut much with reveens. the Country again opens and at the distance of 23 miles below the Redston or War-har-sah River I landed in the enterance of a Small river on the Stard. Side 40 yards wid Shallow and muddy. it has lately been very high. haveing passed the Enterance of a River on the Lard Side 100 yards wide which has running water this river I take to be the one the Menetarries Call little wolf or Sa-a-shah River The high Country is entirely bar of timber. great quantities of Coal or carbonated wood is to be seen in every Bluff and in the high hills at a distance on each Side. Saw more Buffalow and Elk and antilopes this evening than usial. 18 Miles below the last river on the Stard. Side, I passed one 60 yards wide which had running water. this Stream I call oak-tar-pon-er or Coal River has very steep banks on each side of it. passed Several large Brooks Some of them had a little running water, also Several Islands Some high black looking Bluffs and encamped on the Stard. Side on a low point. the country like that of yesterday is open extencive plains. as I was about landing this evening Saw a white bear and the largest I ever Saw eating a dead buffalow on a Sand bar. we fired two Shot into him, he Swam to the main Shore and walked down the bank. I landed and fired 2 more Shot into this tremendious animal without killing him. night comeing on we Could not pursue him he bled profusely. Showers all this day
Saturday, July 31, 1806 I was quite disturbed last night by the noise of the buffalo around me. One group swam across the river near our camp, which worried me a bit for fear they might cross our canoes and break them. We set out as usual at sunrise and passed a rapid that I named Wolf Rapid because one of those animals was by the rapid. Here, the river approaches the high mountainous area on the northwest side. Those hills seem to be made of various colored earth and coal with little rock. I noticed several conical mounds that looked like they had been burned. This high country is shaped into unusually formed mounds and hills and is deeply cut with ravines. The landscape opens up again, and about 23 miles downstream from the Redston or War-har-sah River, I landed at the entrance of a small river on the starboard side, which is 40 yards wide, shallow, and muddy. It has recently been very high. After passing the entrance of a river on the larboard side that is 100 yards wide with running water, I believe this river is the one the Menetaries call Little Wolf or Sa-a-shah River. The high country has no trees. Large amounts of coal or carbonized wood can be seen in every bluff and in the high hills on both sides. I saw more buffalo, elk, and antelopes this evening than usual. Eighteen miles downstream from the last river on the starboard side, I crossed another river that is 60 yards wide with running water. I named this stream Oak-tar-pon-er or Coal River, which has very steep banks on either side. I also passed several large brooks, some with a little running water, and several islands, some with high, dark-looking bluffs. I camped on the starboard side on a low point. The terrain, like yesterday's, consists of open, extensive plains. As I was about to land this evening, I saw a white bear, the biggest I had ever seen, eating a dead buffalo on a sandbar. We fired two shots at him, and he swam to the main shore and walked down the bank. I landed and fired two more shots at this enormous animal without killing him. As night fell, we couldn’t pursue him; he was bleeding heavily. There were showers throughout the day.
[Clark, August 1, 1806]
Sunday 1st of August 1806. We Set out early as usial the wind was high and ahead which caused the water to be a little rough and delayed us very much aded to this we had Showers of rain repeetedly all day at the intermition of only a fiew minits between them. My Situation a very disagreeable one. in an open Canoe wet and without a possibility of keeping my Self dry. the Country through which we passed is in every respect like that through which I passed yesterday. The brooks have all Some water in them from the rains which has fallen. this water is excessively muddy. Several of those brooks have Some trees on their borders as far as I can See up them. I observe Some low pine an cedar on the Sides of the rugid hills on the Stard. Side, and Some ash timber in the high bottoms. the river has more Sand bars today than usial, and more Soft mud. the current less rapid. at 2 P.M. I was obliged to land to let the Buffalow Cross over. not withstanding an island of half a mile in width over which this gangue of Buffalow had to pass and the Chanel of the river on each Side nearly 1/4 of a mile in width, this gangue of Buffalow was entirely across and as thick as they could Swim. the Chanel on the Side of the island the went into the river was crouded with those animals for 1/2 an hour. the other Side of the island for more than 3/4 of an hour. I took 4 of the men and killed 4 fat Cows for their fat and what portion of their flesh the Small Canoes Could Carry that which we had killed a few days ago being nearly Spoiled from the wet weather. encamped on an Island Close to the Lard Shore two gangues of Buffalow Crossed a little below us, as noumerous as the first.
Sunday, August 1, 1806. We set out early as usual. The wind was strong and against us, making the water a bit rough and causing significant delays. On top of that, we had rain showers repeatedly throughout the day, with only a few minutes of break between them. My situation was very uncomfortable, stuck in an open canoe, wet and unable to stay dry. The landscape we passed through was pretty much the same as the day before. The streams had some water in them from the recent rains, but it was incredibly muddy. Several of these streams had some trees along their banks as far as I could see. I noticed some low pine and cedar trees on the steep hillsides on the starboard side, along with ash timber in the higher bottoms. The river had more sandbars today than usual, and there was a lot more soft mud, with the current being less swift. At 2 PM, I had to stop to let a group of buffalo cross over. Despite an island that was half a mile wide, over which this herd of buffalo had to pass, and the river channel on each side being nearly a quarter of a mile wide, the entire herd managed to cross and was as dense as they could swim. The channel on the side of the island that led into the river was packed with these animals for half an hour, and the other side of the island was filled for more than three-quarters of an hour. I took four of the men and killed four fat cows for their fat and the portions of meat that the small canoes could carry, since the meat we had killed a few days ago was nearly spoiled from the wet weather. We camped on an island close to the left shore, where two herds of buffalo crossed a little below us, just as numerous as the first.
[Clark, August 2, 1806]
Monday August 2nd 1806. Musquetors very troublesom this morning I Set out early river wide and very much divided by islands and Sand and Mud bars. the bottoms more extencive and contain more timber Such as Cotton wood ash willow &c. The Country on the N W. Side rises to a low plain and extends leavel for great extent. Some high rugid hills in the forepart of this day on the S E. Side on which I saw the big horns but could not get near them. Saw emence numbers of Elk Buffalow and wolves to day. the wolves do catch the elk. I saw 2 wolves in pursute of doe Elk which I beleive they Cought they very near her when She entered a Small wood in which I expect they cought her as She did not pass out of the small wood during my remaining in view of it which was 15 or 20 minits &c. passed the enterance of Several brooks on each Side, a Small river 30 yds wide with Steep banks on the Stard. Side, which I call Ibex River the river in this days decent is less rapid crouded with Islds and muddy bars and is generally about one mile in wedth. as the islands and bars frequently hide the enterance of Brooks &c. from me as I pass'd maney of them I have not noticed. about 8 A. M this morning a Bear of the large vicious Species being on a Sand bar raised himself up on his hind feet and looked at us as we passed down near the middle of the river. he plunged into the water and Swam towards us, either from a disposition to attack't or from the Cent of the meat which was in the Canoes. we Shot him with three balls and he returned to Shore badly wounded. in the evening I saw a very large Bear take the water above us. I ordered the boat to land on the opposit Side with a view to attack't him when he Came within Shot of the Shore. when the bear was in a fiew paces of the Shore I Shot it in the head. the men hauled her on Shore and proved to be an old Shee which was so old that her tuskes had worn Smooth, and Much the largest feemale bear I ever Saw. after taking off her Skin, I proceeded on and encampd a little above the enterance of Jo. Feilds Creek on Stard. Side in a high bottom Covered with low Ash and elm. the Musquetors excessively troublesom.
Monday, August 2, 1806. Mosquitoes were very bothersome this morning. I set out early; the river is wide and divided by islands and sand and mud bars. The bottoms are more extensive and have more timber, such as cottonwood, ash, willow, etc. The land on the northwest side rises to a low plain and extends flat for a considerable distance. There are some high, rugged hills at the beginning of the day on the southeast side, where I saw the big horns but couldn’t get close to them. I saw immense numbers of elk, buffalo, and wolves today. The wolves do catch the elk. I saw two wolves chasing a doe elk, and I believe they caught her; they were very close to her when she entered a small wood. I expect they caught her, as she didn’t leave the small wood during the 15 or 20 minutes I was watching. I passed the entrances of several brooks on each side, including a small river 30 yards wide with steep banks on the starboard side, which I call Ibex River. The river during today's descent is less rapid, crowded with islands and muddy bars, and is generally about a mile wide. As the islands and bars often block the entrances to brooks from my view, I haven’t noted many of them. About 8 A.M. this morning, a large, aggressive bear on a sandbar stood up on its hind legs and looked at us as we passed near the middle of the river. It dove into the water and swam toward us, either intending to attack or drawn in by the scent of the meat in the canoes. We shot it with three balls, and it returned to shore badly wounded. In the evening, I saw a very large bear enter the water upstream. I ordered the boat to land on the opposite side to prepare to attack it as it came within range. When the bear was just a few paces from the shore, I shot it in the head. The men pulled it ashore, and it turned out to be an old female bear, so old that her tusks had worn smooth and she was the largest female bear I had ever seen. After removing her skin, I continued on and set up camp a little above the entrance of Joe Field's Creek on the starboard side in a high bottom covered with low ash and elm. The mosquitoes remained extremely bothersome.
I have noticed a great preportion Buck Elks on this lower part of the river, and but very few above. those above which are emencely noumerous are feemales Generally. Shields killed a Deer this morning dureing the time we were at Brackfast. we were very near being detained by the Buffalow today which were Crossing the river we got through the line between 2 gangues.
I have noticed a large number of male elk in this lower part of the river, but very few above. Those above, which are extremely numerous, are mostly females. Shields killed a deer this morning while we were having breakfast. We almost got delayed by the buffalo today as they crossed the river; we made it through the line between two groups.
[Clark, August 3, 1806]
Tueday August 3rd,1806. last night the Musquetors was so troublesom that no one of the party Slept half the night. for my part I did not Sleep one hour. those tormenting insects found their way into My beare and tormented me the whole night. they are not less noumerous or troublesom this morn-ing. at 2 miles passed the enterance of Jo. Field's Creek 35 yds wide imediately above a high bluff which is falling into the river very fast. on the Side of this bluff I saw Some of the Mountain Bighorn animals. I assended the hill below the Bluff. the Musquetors were So noumerous that I could not Shute with any Certainty and therefore Soon returned to the Canoes. I had not proceeded far before I saw a large gangue of ewes & yearlins & fawns or lambs of the bighorn, and at a distance alone I saw a ram. landed and Sent Labeech to kill the ram, which he did kill and brought him on board. this ram is not near as large as maney I have Seen. however he is Sufficiently large for a Sample I directed Bratten to Skin him with his head horns & feet to the Skin and Save all the bone. I have now the Skin & bone of a Ram a Ewe & a yearlin ram of those big Horn animals. at 8. A.M. I arived at the junction of the Rochejhone with the Missouri, and formed my Camp imediately in the point between the two river at which place the party had all encamped the 26th of April-1805. at landing I observed Several Elk feeding on the young willows in the point among which was a large Buck Elk which I shot & had his flesh dryed in the Sun for a Store down the river. had the Canoes unloaded and every article exposed to dry & Sun. Maney of our things were wet, and nearly all the Store of meat which had been killed above Spoiled. I ordered it to be thrown into the river. Several Skins are also Spoiled which is a loss, as they are our principal dependance for Clothes to last us to our homes &c.
Tuesday, August 3rd, 1806. Last night, the mosquitoes were so annoying that none of the party slept for more than half the night. As for me, I didn't sleep at all. Those pesky insects made their way into my bed and tormented me all night. They are just as numerous and bothersome this morning. About 2 miles past the entrance of Jo. Field's Creek, which is 35 yards wide, there’s a high bluff that is collapsing into the river very quickly. On the side of this bluff, I saw some Mountain Bighorn sheep. I climbed the hill below the bluff. There were so many mosquitoes that I couldn't shoot with any accuracy, so I quickly returned to the canoes. I hadn’t gone far before I spotted a large group of ewes, yearlings, and fawns, and off in the distance, I saw a lone ram. We landed, and I sent Labeech to kill the ram, which he did, bringing it back on board. This ram is not nearly as large as many I've seen, but he is big enough to be a sample. I directed Bratten to skin him with his head, horns, and feet included, and to save all the bones. I now have the skin and bones of a ram, an ewe, and a yearling ram of those Bighorn sheep. At 8 A.M., I arrived at the junction of the Rocherhone with the Missouri and set up camp right at the point between the two rivers, where the party had all camped on April 26th, 1805. Upon landing, I noticed several elk feeding on the young willows in the point, among which was a large buck elk that I shot, and I had his meat dried in the sun to store for later down the river. I had the canoes unloaded and exposed every item to dry in the sun. Many of our things were wet, and nearly all the meat we had collected above spoiled. I ordered it to be thrown into the river. Several skins also spoiled, which is a loss since they are our main source of clothes to last us until we get home, etc.
The distance from the Rocky Mountains at which place I struck the River Rochejhone to its enterance into the Missouri 837 Miles 636 Miles of this distance I decended in 2 Small Canoes lashed together in which I had the following Persons. John Shields, George Gibson, William Bratten, W. Labeech, Toust. Shabono his wife & child & my man York. The Rochejhone or Yellow Stone river is large and navagable with but fiew obstructions quite into the rocky mountains. and probably near it's source. The Country through which it passes from those Mounts. to its junction is Generaly fertile rich open plains the upper portion of which is roleing and the high hills and hill Sides are partially covered with pine and Stoney. The middle portion or from the enterance of Clarks Fork as low as the Buffalow Shoals the high lands Contain Some Scattering pine on the Lard. Side. on the Stard. or S. E. Side is Some hills thickly Supplied with pine. The lower portion of the river but fiew pines are to be Seen the Country opens into extencive plains river widens and Contains more islands and bars; of corse gravel sand and Mud. The Current of this river may be estimated at 4 Miles and 1/2 pr. hour from the Rocky Mts. as low as Clarks Fork, at 31/2 Miles pr. hour from thence as low as the Bighorn, at 3—Miles pr. hour from thence as low as the Tongue river, at 23/4 Miles pr. hour from thence as low as Wolf rapid and at 21/2 miles pr. hour from thence to its enterance into the Missouri
The distance from the Rocky Mountains, where I reached the River Rochejhone, to its entrance into the Missouri is 837 miles. I traveled 636 miles of this distance in two small canoes lashed together, carrying the following people: John Shields, George Gibson, William Bratten, W. Labeech, Toust Shabono, his wife and child, and my man York. The Rochejhone, or Yellowstone River, is large and navigable, with few obstacles all the way to the Rocky Mountains, and likely near its source. The land it flows through, from those mountains to its junction, is generally fertile with rich open plains. The upper part is rolling, and the high hills and slopes are partly covered with pine and stone. The middle section, from the entrance of Clark's Fork down to Buffalo Shoals, has some scattered pines on the left bank. On the southeast side, there are hills densely covered with pine. In the lower section of the river, few pines are visible, as the country opens up into extensive plains where the river widens and has more islands and bars made of coarse gravel, sand, and mud. The current of this river can be estimated at 4.5 miles per hour from the Rocky Mountains down to Clark's Fork, at 3.5 miles per hour from there to the Bighorn, at 3 miles per hour from there to the Tongue River, at 2.75 miles per hour from there to Wolf Rapids, and at 2.5 miles per hour from there to its entrance into the Missouri.
The Colour of the Water differs from that of the Missouri it being of a yellowish brown, whilst that of the Missouri is of a deep drab Colour containing a greater portion of mud than the Rochejhone. This delighfull river from indian information has it's extreem sources with the North river in the Rocky mountains on the confines of New Mexico. it also most probably has it's westerly sources connected with the Multnomah and those the main Southerly branch of Lewis's river while it's Easterly branches head with those of Clark's R. the bighorn and River Platte and may be said to water the middle portion of the Rocky Mountains from N W to S. E. for several hundred miles. the indians inform us, that a good road passes up this river to it's extreem source from whence it is buta short distance to the Spanish settlements. there is also a considerable fall on this river within the mountains but at what distance from it's source we never could learn like all other branches of the Missouri which penetrate the Rocky Mountains all that portion of it lying within those mountains abound in fine beaver and Otter, it's streams also which issuing from the rocky mountain and discharging themselves above Clark's fork inclusive also furnish an abundance of beaver and Otter and possess considerable portions of small timber in their values. to an establishment on this river at clarks Fork the Shoshones both within and West of the Rocky Mountains would willingly resort for the purposes of trade as they would in a great measure be relived from the fear of being attacked by their enimies the blackfoot Indians and Minnetares of fort de Prarie, which would most probably happen were they to visit any establishment which could be conveniently formed on the Missouri. I have no doubt but the same regard to personal safety would also induce many numerous nations inhabiting the Columbia and Lewis's river West of the mountains to visit this establishment in preference to that at the entrance of Maria's river, particularly during the first years of those Western establishments. the Crow Indians, Paunch Indians Castahanah's and others East of the mountains and south of this place would also visit this establishment; it may therefore be looked to as one of the most important establishments of the western fur trade. at the entrance of Clark's fork there is a sufficiency of timber to support an establishment, an advantage that no position possesses from thence to the Rocky Mountains. The banks of the yellowstone river a bold not very high yet are not subject to be overflown, except for a few miles immediately below where the river issues from the mountain. the bed of this river is almost entirely composed of loose pebble, nor is it's bed interrupted by chains of rock except in one place and that even furnishes no considerable obstruction to it's navigation. as you decend with the river from the mountain the pebble becomes smaller and the quantity of mud increased untill you reah Tongue river where the pebble ceases and the sand then increases and predominates near it's mouth. This river can be navigated to greater advantage in perogues than any other craft yet it possesses suficient debth of water for battauxs even to the mountains; nor is there any of those moving sand bars so formidable to the navigation of many parts of the Missouri. The Bighorn R and Clark's fork may be navigated a considerable distance in perogues and canoes. Tongue river is also navigable for canoes a considerable distance.
The color of the water in this river is different from that of the Missouri, being a yellowish-brown, while the Missouri has a deep drab color with more mud than the Rochejhone. This delightful river, according to Indian sources, has its extreme sources near the North River in the Rocky Mountains along the border of New Mexico. It likely connects its western sources with the Multnomah and the main southern branch of Lewis's River, while its eastern branches originate from those of Clark's River, the Bighorn, and the Platte River. This river waters the central portion of the Rocky Mountains from northwest to southeast for several hundred miles. The Indians tell us there’s a good road along this river to its farthest source, from which it’s just a short distance to the Spanish settlements. There is also a significant drop on this river within the mountains, but we could never find out how far it is from its source. Like all other branches of the Missouri that traverse the Rocky Mountains, this area is rich in beaver and otter. The streams that flow from the Rocky Mountains and empty above Clark's Fork also provide plenty of beaver and otter, along with significant patches of small timber. Shoshones from both within and west of the Rocky Mountains would gladly visit a trading post on this river at Clark's Fork, as they would feel much safer from attacks by their enemies, the Blackfoot Indians and the Minnetarees at Fort de Prairie, which would likely occur if they traveled to any post that could be easily made along the Missouri. I’m sure the same concern for personal safety would draw many nations living along the Columbia and Lewis's River west of the mountains to this trading post instead of the one at the mouth of Maria’s River, especially in the early years of these western outposts. The Crow Indians, the Paunch Indians, the Castahanahs, and others living east of the mountains and south of this area would also visit this trading post; thus, it can be seen as one of the most important hubs of the western fur trade. At the entrance of Clark's Fork, there’s enough timber to support a trading post, which is an advantage not found in any other location from there to the Rocky Mountains. The banks of the Yellowstone River are bold but not very high, and they aren’t prone to flooding, except for a few miles right below where the river flows out of the mountains. The riverbed is almost completely made up of loose pebbles, with only one significant rock formation that doesn’t pose a major barrier to navigation. As you go downstream from the mountains, the pebbles become smaller, and the amount of mud increases until you reach Tongue River, where pebbles disappear, and sand begins to dominate near its mouth. This river is best navigated using pirogues rather than any other vessel, though there’s enough water depth for bateaux even up to the mountains; also, there are no perilous sandbars that can complicate navigation like those found in many parts of the Missouri. The Bighorn River and Clark's Fork can be navigated quite far in pirogues and canoes. Tongue River is also navigable for canoes for a considerable distance.
[Clark, August 4, 1806]
Wednesday 4th August 1806 Musquetors excessively troublesom So much So that the men complained that they could not work at their Skins for those troublesom insects. and I find it entirely impossible to hunt in the bottoms, those insects being So noumerous and tormenting as to render it imposseable for a man to continue in the timbered lands and our best retreat from those insects is on the Sand bars in the river and even those Situations are only clear of them when the Wind Should happen to blow which it did to day for a fiew hours in the middle of the day. the evenings nights and mornings they are almost indureable perticelarly by the party with me who have no Bears to keep them off at night, and nothing to Screen them but their blankets which are worn and have maney holes. The torments of those Missquetors and the want of a Sufficety of Buffalow meat to dry, those animals not to be found in this neighbourhood induce me to deturmine to proceed on to a more eliagiable Spot on the Missouri below at which place the Musquetors will be less troublesom and Buffalow more plenty. (I will here obseve that Elk is Abundant but their flesh & fat is hard to dry in the Sun, and when dry is much easirSpoiled than either the Buffalow or Deer) I ordered the Canoes to be reloaded with our baggage & dryed meat which had been Saved on the Rochejhone together with the Elk killed at this place. wrote a note to Capt Lewis informing him of my intentions and tied it to a pole which I had Stuck up in the point. At 5 P. M Set out and proceeded on down to the 2d point which appeared to be an eligable Situation for my purpose killed a porcupine on this point the Musquetors were So abundant that we were tormented much worst than at the point. The Child of Shabono has been So much bitten by the Musquetor that his face is much puffed up & Swelled. I encamped on this extensive Sand bar which is on the N W. Side.
Wednesday, August 4, 1806 Mosquitoes were extremely bothersome. So much so that the men complained they couldn't work on their hides because of these annoying insects. I found it completely impossible to hunt in the low areas, as these insects were so numerous and tormenting that it made it impossible for anyone to stay in the wooded areas. Our best refuge from them was on the sandbars in the river, and even those spots were only free of mosquitoes when the wind blew—which it did for a few hours in the middle of the day. In the evenings, nights, and mornings, they were almost unbearable, especially for the group with me who had no bears to keep the bugs away at night, relying only on their worn-out blankets with many holes for cover. The torment from these mosquitoes and the lack of enough buffalo meat to dry, as those animals weren't found in this area, made me decide to move on to a better spot further down the Missouri River where mosquitoes would be less bothersome and buffalo more plentiful. (I should note that elk are abundant, but their meat and fat are hard to dry in the sun, and when dried, it's much easier to spoil than either buffalo or deer.) I ordered the canoes to be reloaded with our supplies and the dried meat we had saved at Rochejhone, along with the elk we killed here. I wrote a note to Captain Lewis informing him of my plans and tied it to a pole that I stuck in the ground at the point. At 5 PM, I set out and moved down to the second point, which seemed like a good spot for my purpose. I killed a porcupine at this point, but the mosquitoes were so numerous that we were even more tormented than before. The child of Shabono had been bitten so much by the mosquitoes that his face was very swollen. I camped on this large sandbar on the northwest side.
[Clark, August 5, 1806]
Thursday 5th August 1806. The Musquetors was So troublesom to the men last night that they Slept but very little. indeed they were excessive troublesom to me. my Musquetor Bear has a number of Small holes worn through they pass in. I Set out at an early hour intending to proceed to Some other Situation. I had not proceded on far before I Saw a ram of the big horn Animal near the top of a Lard. Bluff I assended the hill with a view to kill the ram. the Misquetors was So noumerous that I could not keep them off my gun long enough to take Sight and by thair means missed. at 10 a.m. the wind rose with a gentle breeze from the N. W. which in Some measure thinned the Misquetors. I landed on a Sand bar from the South Point intending to form a Camp at this place and Continue untill Capt Lewis Should arive. and killed two Buck Elks and a Deer the best of their flesh & fat I had Saved. had all the dryed meat & fat put out to Sun and continued at this place untill late in the evening finding that there were no buffalow or fresh Sign I deturmined to proceed on accordingly Set out at 4 P. M and proceeded on but a fiew miles eeir I saw a Bear of the white Species walking on a Sand bear. I with one man went on the Sand bear and killed the Bear which proved to be a feemale very large and fat. much the fattest animale we have killed on the rout as this bear had got into the river before we killed her I had her toed across to the South Side under a high Bluff where formed a Camp, had the bear Skined and fleaced. our Situation was exposed to a light breeze of wind which continued all the forepart of the night from the S W. and blew away the misquetors.
Thursday, August 5, 1806. The mosquitoes were so bothersome to the men last night that they hardly slept at all. They were incredibly annoying to me too. My mosquito net has a number of small holes where they get in. I set out early, planning to move to another location. I hadn't gone very far before I spotted a ram of the big horn animal near the top of a steep bluff. I climbed the hill with the aim of shooting the ram, but the mosquitoes were so numerous that I couldn't keep them off my gun long enough to take aim, and because of that, I missed. At 10 a.m., the wind picked up with a gentle breeze from the northwest, which somewhat thinned out the mosquitoes. I landed on a sandbar at the southern point intending to set up camp here and wait for Capt. Lewis to arrive. I killed two buck elks and a deer, saving the best of their flesh and fat. I put all the dried meat and fat out to sun and stayed at this spot until late in the evening. Finding no buffalo or fresh signs, I decided to move on. I set out at 4 p.m. and had only gone a few miles when I saw a bear of the white species walking on a sandbar. One man and I went onto the sandbar and shot the bear, which turned out to be a very large and fat female. She was the fattiest animal we've killed on the route. Since the bear had gotten into the river before we killed her, I had her towed across to the south side under a high bluff where we formed a camp and skinned and cleaned the bear. Our location was exposed to a light breeze that continued all night from the southwest, which blew away the mosquitoes.
[Clark, August 6, 1806]
Friday 6th August 1806 I rose very wet. about 11 P M last night the wind become very hard for a fiew minits Suckceeded by Sharp lightning and hard Claps of Thunder and rained for about 2 hours very hard after which it continued Cloudy the balance of the night. as we were about Setting out a female Big horn animal came on the bluff imediately above us and looked down. I derected Labeech to Shoot it which he did, after Skinning this animal we Set out and proceeded on to a Sand bar on the S W. Side below the enterance of White earth river where I landed and had the meat Skins and bedding all put out to dry. wind hard from the N W. I halted on the N W. Side of this river in the bend above the white earth river, where I saw where the Indians had been digging a root which they eate and use in Seup, not more than 7 or 8 days past. This morning a very large Bear of white Specis, discovered us floating in the water and takeing us, as I prosume to be Buffalow imediately plunged into the river and prosued us. I directed the men to be Still. this animal Came within about 40 yards of us, and tacked about. we all fired into him without killing him, and the wind So high that we could not pursue him, by which means he made his escape to the Shore badly wounded. I have observed buffalow floating down which I suppose must have been drounded in Crossing above. more or less of those animals drown or mire in passing this river. I observed Several floating buffalow on the R. Rochejhone imediately below where large gangues had Crossed. The wind blew hard all the after part of the day. I derected the men to dress their Skins except one which I took with me and walkd. through the bottom to the foot of the hills I killed five deer and the man with me killed 2. four others were killed in the Course of the day by the party only 2 of those deer were fat owing as I suppose to the Musquetors which are So noumerous and troublesom to them that they Cannot feed except under the torments of millions of those Musquetors.
Friday, August 6, 1806 I woke up very wet. Around 11 PM last night, the wind picked up quite a bit for a few minutes, followed by sharp lightning and loud thunder, and it rained heavily for about two hours. After that, it remained cloudy for the rest of the night. Just as we were about to set out, a female bighorn sheep appeared on the bluff right above us, looking down. I told Labeech to shoot it, which he did. After we skinned the animal, we set out and made our way to a sandbar on the southwest side, just below the entrance of White Earth River, where I landed and had the meat, skins, and bedding all laid out to dry. The wind was strong from the northwest. I stopped on the northwest side of this river in the bend above the White Earth River, where I noticed evidence that the Indians had been digging for a root they eat and use in soup, not more than seven or eight days ago. This morning, a very large white bear spotted us while we were floating in the water, mistaking us for buffalo, and immediately jumped into the river to chase us. I told the men to stay quiet. The bear came within about 40 yards of us and then turned around. We all fired at it but missed the kill, and with the wind so strong, we couldn’t pursue it, allowing it to escape to shore, badly wounded. I observed buffalo floating down the river, which I assume must have drowned while trying to cross upstream. More or less of those animals drown or get stuck in the mud while passing this river. I noticed several floating buffalo on the Rochejhone River immediately below where large groups had crossed. The wind blew hard for the rest of the day. I instructed the men to process their skins, except for one which I took with me, and I walked through the bottom to the foot of the hills. I killed five deer, and the man with me killed two. Four other deer were killed throughout the day by the party; only two of these deer were fat, likely due to the mosquitoes, which are so numerous and bothersome that the deer cannot feed without being tormented by swarms of them.
[Clark, August 7, 1806]
Saturday 7th August 1806 Some hard rain this morning after daylight which wet us all. I formed a Sort of Camped and delayed untill 11 a.m. when it Stoped raining for a short time. I directed every thing put on board and proceeded on down. the rain Continued at intervales all day tho not hard in the evenig Saw a Bear on the bank but Could not get a Shoot at it. at 6 P M I landed on a Sand bar on the South Side and Campd. Soon after we landed the wind blew very hard for about 2 hours, when it lulled a little. the air was exceedingly Clear and Cold and not a misquetor to be Seen, which is a joyfull circumstance to the Party.
Saturday, August 7, 1806 We had some heavy rain this morning after daylight, which got us all wet. I set up a kind of camp and waited until 11 a.m. when the rain stopped for a short while. I had everything loaded onto the boat and we continued down the river. The rain kept coming in intervals all day, though it wasn't heavy. In the evening, I saw a bear on the bank, but I couldn't get a shot at it. At 6 p.m., I landed on a sandbar on the south side and camped. Soon after we landed, the wind picked up really strong for about two hours, then calmed down a bit. The air was extremely clear and cold, and not a mosquito in sight, which was a pleasant surprise for the group.
[Clark, August 8, 1806]
Sunday 8th August 1806 A cool windey morning I derected Shields and Gibson to turn out and hunt this morning. at 8 A.M. Sergt. N. Pryor Shannon, hall & Windsor Came down the river in two Canoes made of Buffalow Skins. Sergt. Pryor informed me that the Second night after he parted with me on the river Rochejhone he arived about 4 P M on the banks of a large Creek which contained no running water. he halted to let the horses graze dureing which time a heavy Shower of rain raised the Creek so high that Several horses which had Stragled across the Chanel of this Creek was obliged to Swim back. here he deturmined to Continue all night it being in good food for the horses. In the morning he could See no horses. in lookg about their Camp they discovered Several tracks within 100 paces of their Camp, which they pursued found where they had Caught and drove off all the horses. they prosued on five miles the Indians there divided into two parties. they Continued in pursute of the largest party five miles further finding that there was not the Smallest Chance of overtakeing them, they returned to their Camp and packed up their baggage on their backs and Steared a N. E. course to the River Rochejhone which they Struck at pompys Tower, there they killed a Buffalow Bull and made a Canoe in the form and shape of the mandans & Ricares (the form of a bason) and made in the following manner. Viz: 2 Sticks of 11/4 inch diameter is tied together So as to form a round hoop of the Size you wish the canoe, or as large as the Skin will allow to cover, two of those hoops are made one for the top or brim and the for the bottom the deabth you wish the Canoe, then Sticks of the Same Size are Crossed at right angles and fastened with a throng to each hoop and also where each Stick Crosses each other. then the Skin when green is drawn tight over this fraim and fastened with throngs to the brim or outer hoop So as to form a perfect bason. one of those Canoes will carry 6 or 8 Men and their loads. Those two Canoes are nearly the Same Size 7 feet 3 inches diamieter & 16 inchs deep 15 ribs or Cross Sticks in each. Sergt. Pryor informs me that the Cause of his building two Canoes was for fear of ones meating with Some accedent in passing down the rochejhone a river entirely unknown to either of them by which means they might loose their guns and amunition and be left entirely destitute of the means of precureing food. he informed me that they passed through the worst parts of the rapids & Shoals in the river without takeing a drop of water, and waves raised from the hardest winds dose not effect them. on the night of the 26th ulto. the night after the horses had been stolen a Wolf bit Sergt. Pryor through his hand when asleep, and this animal was So vicious as to make an attempt to Seize Windsor, when Shannon fortunately Shot him. Sergt. Pryers hand has nearly recovered. The Country through which St. Pryor Passed after he parted with me is a broken open Country. he passed one Small river which I have Called Pryors river which rises in a Mtn. to the South of Pompys tower. The note I left on a pole at the Mouth of the River Rochejhone Sergt. Pryor concluding that Capt. Lewis had passed took the note and brought it with him. Capt. Lewis I expect will be certain of my passing by the Sign which I have made and the encampment imediately in the point. Sergt. Pryor bing anxious to overtake me Set out Some time before day this morning and forgot his Saddlebags which contains his papers &c. I Sent Bratten back with him in Serch of them. I also Sent Shannon over to hunt the bottom on the opposit Side. Shields and Gibson returned at 10 A.M. with the Skins and part of the flesh of three deer which they had killed in this bottom. I derected them to take one of the Skin Canoes and proceed down to the next bottom and untill my arival which will be this evening if Sergt. Pryor returns in time. My object is to precure as many Skins as possible for the purpose of purchaseing Corn and Beans of the Mandans. as we have now no article of Merchindize nor horses to purchase with, our only resort is S kins which those people were very fond the winter we were Stationed near them. after dark Sergt. Pryor returned with his Saddlebeggs &c. they were much further up than he expected.
Sunday, August 8, 1806 A cool, windy morning. I directed Shields and Gibson to go out and hunt today. At 8 A.M., Sergeant N. Pryor Shannon, Hall, and Windsor came down the river in two canoes made from buffalo skins. Sergeant Pryor told me that on the second night after he parted with me at the Rochejhone River, he arrived around 4 P.M. at the banks of a large creek that had no running water. He stopped to let the horses graze, and during that time, a heavy rain raised the creek so high that several horses that had strayed across the creek’s channel had to swim back. He decided to stay there for the night because there was good food for the horses. In the morning, he couldn’t see any horses. While looking around their camp, they found several tracks within 100 paces, which they followed and discovered that the horses had been captured and taken away. They pursued the tracks for five miles, where the Indians split into two groups. They continued chasing the largest group for another five miles, realizing they had no chance of catching up, so they returned to their camp, packed their gear, and headed northeast to the Rochejhone River, which they reached at Pompy's Tower. There, they killed a buffalo bull and made a canoe in the shape of those used by the Mandans and Ricara, which is like a basin, constructed as follows: Two sticks about 1¼ inch in diameter are tied together to form a round hoop of the desired canoe size, or as large as the skin allows. Two hoops are made—one for the top or brim and one for the bottom at the desired depth. Then, sticks of the same size are crossed at right angles and secured with thongs to each hoop and at each crossing. When the hide is green, it is pulled tight over this frame and attached with thongs to the brim or outer hoop, forming a perfect basin. One of these canoes can carry 6 to 8 men and their loads. The two canoes are about the same size: 7 feet 3 inches in diameter and 16 inches deep, with 15 ribs or cross sticks in each. Sergeant Pryor explained that he built two canoes due to the fear of an accident while navigating the Rochejhone, a river completely unknown to them, which could result in losing their guns and ammunition, leaving them completely unable to procure food. He mentioned that they passed through the worst rapids and shallows in the river without taking a drop of water, and that waves created by strong winds did not affect them. On the night of the 26th, the night after the horses were stolen, a wolf bit Sergeant Pryor on the hand while he was sleeping, and this animal was so vicious that it tried to attack Windsor, but Shannon luckily shot it. Sergeant Pryor's hand is almost healed. The area through which Sergeant Pryor traveled after he parted with me is broken and open land. He crossed one small river, which I have named Pryor's River, rising in a mountain to the south of Pompy's Tower. The note I left on a pole at the mouth of Rochejhone River was taken by Sergeant Pryor, who figured Captain Lewis had passed. I expect Captain Lewis will be sure of my passing by the sign I made and the camp near the point. Sergeant Pryor, eager to catch up with me, left early this morning and forgot his saddlebags, which contained his papers. I sent Bratten back with him to search for them. I also sent Shannon to hunt on the opposite bank. Shields and Gibson returned at 10 A.M. with the skins and some meat from three deer they killed in this bottom. I instructed them to take one of the skin canoes and head down to the next bottom until I arrive this evening, if Sergeant Pryor comes back in time. My goal is to gather as many skins as possible to trade for corn and beans from the Mandans, as we now have no trade goods or horses to buy with. Our only option is skins, which these people liked a lot the winter we were stationed near them. After dark, Sergeant Pryor returned with his saddlebags and such; they were much further up than he expected.
[Clark, August 9, 1806]
Monday 9th August 1806 a heavy dew this morning. loaded the Canoes and proceeded on down about 6 miles and landed at the Camp of the 2 hunters Shields and Gibson whome I had Sent down to hunt last evening, they had killed five deer two of which were in good order which they brought in. here I took brackfast and proceeded on a fiew miles and I walked on Shore across a point of near 10 miles in extent in this bottom which was mostly open I saw Some fiew deer and Elk. I killed 3 of the deer which were Meagure the Elk appeared fat. I did not kill any of them as the distance to the river was too great for the men to Carry the meat at the lower part of this bottom a large Creek of runnig water 25 yds wide falls in which meanders through an open roleing plain of great extent. in the low bottoms of this Creek I observed Some timber Such as Cottonwood, ash & Elm. on my arival at the lower part of the bottom found that the canoes had been in waiting for me nearly two hours. The Squar brought me a large and well flavoured Goose berry of a rich Crimsin Colour, and deep purple berry of the large Cherry of the Current Speces which is common on this river as low as the Mandans, the engagees Call it the Indian Current. I landed opposit to a high plain on the S. E. Side late in the evening and walked in a Grove of timber where I met with an Elk which I killed. this Elk was the largest Buck I ever Saw and the fattest animal which have been killed on the rout. I had the flesh and fat of this Elk brought to Camp and cut thin ready to dry. the hunters killed nothing this evening.
Monday, August 9, 1806, there was a heavy dew this morning. I loaded the canoes and continued downstream for about 6 miles, landing at the camp of the two hunters, Shields and Gibson, whom I had sent out to hunt the previous evening. They had killed five deer, two of which were in good condition, and they brought those back. Here, I had breakfast and went on for a few more miles. I walked along the shore across a point that was nearly 10 miles long in this mostly open area. I saw a few deer and elk. I killed 3 of the deer, which were lean, while the elk looked fat. I didn't kill any elk because the distance to the river was too great for the men to carry the meat. At the lower part of this area, a large creek about 25 yards wide flows in, meandering through a vast open rolling plain. In the low areas of this creek, I noticed some timber, such as cottonwood, ash, and elm. Upon reaching the lower part of the area, I found that the canoes had been waiting for me for nearly two hours. A woman brought me a large, well-flavored gooseberry of rich crimson color, and a deep purple berry from the large cherry of the current species, which is common on this river as far down as the Mandans. The crew calls it the Indian Current. I landed opposite a high plain on the southeast side late in the evening and walked into a grove of trees where I encountered an elk, which I killed. This elk was the largest buck I had ever seen and the fattest animal killed on the route. I had the meat and fat from this elk brought back to camp and cut thin, ready to dry. The hunters didn’t kill anything this evening.
[Clark, August 10, 1806]
Tuesday 10th August 1806 had the flesh of the elk hung on poles to dry, and Sent out the the hunters. wind blew hard from the East all day. in the after part of the day it was cloudy & a fiew drops of rain. I finished a Copy of my Sketches of the River Rochejhone. Shields killed a black tail deer & an antilope. the other hunters killed nothing. deer are very Scerce on this part of the river. I found a Species of Cherry in the bottom the Srub or bush which are differant from any which I have ever Seen and not very abundant even in this Small tract of country to which it Seems to be confined. the Stem is compound erect and subdivided or branching without any regular order. it rises to the hight of 8 or 10 feet Seldom putting out more than one Stem from the Same root not growing in cops as the Choke Cherry does. the bark is Smooth and of a dark brown colour. the leaf is petialate, oval accutely pointed at it's apex, from 1 and a 1/4 to one and a 1/2 inch in length and from a half to 3/4 of an inch in wedth, finely or manutely Serrate, pale green and free from bubessance. The fruit is a globular berry about the Size of a buck Shot of a fine Scarlet red; like the cherries cultivated in the U. States each is supported by a Seperate Celindric flexable branch peduncle which issues from the extremities of the boughs. the peduncle of this cherry Swells as it approaches the fruit being largest at the point of insertion. the pulp of this fruit is of an agreeable ascid flavour and is now ripe. the Style and Stigma are permanent. I have never Seen it in blume. it is found on the high Stiff lands or hill Sides-. the men dug great parcel of the root which the Nativs call Hankee and the engagees the white apple which they boiled and made use of with their meat. This is a large insipid root and very tasteless. the nativs use this root after it is dry and pounded in their Seup.
Tuesday, August 10, 1806, we hung the elk meat on poles to dry and sent out the hunters. The wind blew hard from the east all day. Later in the day, it got cloudy, and a few drops of rain fell. I finished a copy of my sketches of the River Rochejhone. Shields killed a black-tailed deer and an antelope, but the other hunters had no luck. Deer are quite scarce in this part of the river. I found a type of cherry in the brush that is different from any I have ever seen and isn’t very plentiful, even in this small area where it seems to grow. The stem is upright and branching in an irregular pattern. It grows to a height of 8 to 10 feet, usually not producing more than one stem from the same root, unlike the choke cherry that grows in clusters. The bark is smooth and dark brown. The leaves are petiolate, oval, sharply pointed at the tip, measuring about 1 to 1.5 inches in length and about half to three-quarters of an inch in width, finely serrated, pale green, and without any bumps. The fruit is a round berry about the size of a buckshot and bright scarlet red; like the cherries cultivated in the U.S., each one is attached to a flexible, cylindrical branch stem that comes from the tips of the branches. The stem of this cherry swells as it approaches the fruit, being largest where it connects. The fruit has a pleasantly tart flavor and is now ripe. The style and stigma remain constant. I have never seen it in bloom. It grows on high, stiff lands or hillsides. The men dug up a large amount of a root that the natives call Hankee and the engagees refer to as the white apple, which they boiled and used with their meat. This root is large, bland, and quite tasteless. The natives use it after it dries and is pounded into their soup.
[Clark, August 11, 1806]
Wednesday 11th August 1806 I set out early this morning. at 10 A.M. landed on a Sand bar and brackfast dureing brackfast and my delay at this place which was 2 hours had the Elk meat exposed to the Sun. at Meridian I set out and had not proceeded more than 2 miles before I observed a Canoe near the Shore. I derected the Canoes to land here I found two men from the illinoies Jos. Dixon, and ____ Handcock those men are on a trapping expedition up the River Rochejhone. They inform me that they left the Illinois in the Summer 1804. the last winter they Spent with the Tetons in Company with a Mr. Coartong who brought up goods to trade The tetons robed him of the greater part of the goods and wounded this Dixon in the leg with a hard wad. The Tetons gave Mr. Coartong Some fiew robes for the articles they took from him. Those men further informed me that they met the Boat and party we Sent down from Fort Mandan near the Kanzas river on board of which was a Chief of the Ricaras, that he met the Yankton Chiefs with Mr. Deurion, McClellen & Several other traders on their way down. that the Mandans and Menitarrais wer at war with the Ricaras and had killed two of the latter. the Assinniboins were also at war with the Mandans &c and had prohibited the N W. traders from Comeing to the Missouri to trade. they have latterly killed one Trader near the Mous River and are now in wait for Mr. McKenzey one of the Clerks who have been for a long time with Menetarias. Those dificulties if true will I fear be a bar to our expectations of having the Mandan Minetarra & Ricara Chief to acompany us to the U. States. Tho we Shall endeaver to bring abot a peace between Mandans Mennetaries & Ricaras and provail on Some of their Cheifs to accompany us to the U. States. proceeded on to a point on the S W Side nearly opposit the enterance of Goat pen creek and encamped found the Musquetors excessively troublesom.
Wednesday, August 11, 1806 I set out early this morning. At 10 A.M., I landed on a sandbar and had breakfast. During breakfast and my 2-hour delay at this spot, the elk meat was exposed to the sun. At noon, I set out again and hadn’t gone more than 2 miles when I spotted a canoe near the shore. I directed the canoes to land, and there I found two men from Illinois, Jos. Dixon and ____ Handcock. These men are on a trapping expedition up the River Rochejhone. They told me that they left Illinois in the summer of 1804. Last winter, they spent time with the Tetons alongside a Mr. Coartong, who brought goods to trade. The Tetons robbed him of most of the goods and wounded Dixon in the leg with a hard wad. The Tetons gave Mr. Coartong a few robes in exchange for the items they took from him. The men also informed me that they met the boat and party we sent down from Fort Mandan near the Kansas River, which had a chief of the Ricaras on board, and that he met the Yankton chiefs with Mr. Deurion, McClellen, and several other traders on their way down. The Mandans and Minetarras were at war with the Ricaras and had killed two of them. The Assinniboins were also at war with the Mandans and had prohibited the Northwest traders from coming to the Missouri to trade. Recently, they killed one trader near the Mouse River and are now waiting for Mr. McKenzey, one of the clerks who has been with the Minetarras for a long time. I fear these difficulties, if true, will hinder our hopes of having the Mandan, Minetarra, and Ricara chiefs accompany us to the United States. However, we will attempt to establish peace between the Mandans, Minetarras, and Ricaras and persuade some of their chiefs to join us in going to the United States. I proceeded to a point on the southwest side, nearly opposite the entrance of Goat Pen Creek, and set up camp. I found the mosquitoes extremely bothersome.
[Clark, August 12, 1806]
Thursday 12th August 1806 I set out early this morning and had not proceeded on far before Shannon discovered he had lost his Tomahk. I derected him to land his Skin Canoe and go back to our Camp of last night in Serch of it, and proceeded on my self with the two wood and one Skin Canoe to a large hottom on the N. E Side above the head of Jins island and landed to take brackfast as well as to delay untill Shannon & Gibson Should arive. Sent out Shields & Labiech to hunt deer in the bottom, at 2 P m. Shannon and gibson arived having found the tomahawk at our camp they killed 3 Elk &c. one of the Canoes of Buffalow Skin by accident got a hole peirced in her of about 6 inches diamuter. I derected two of the men to patch the Canoe with a piece of Elk skin over the hole, which they did and it proved all Sufficient, after which the Canoe did not leak one drop. The two hunters returned without haveing killed any thing. at meridian Capt Lewis hove in Sight with the party which went by way of the Missouri as well as that which accompanied him from Travellers rest on Clarks river; I was alarmed on the landing of the Canoes to be informed that Capt. Lewis was wounded by an accident-. I found him lying in the Perogue, he informed me that his wound was slight and would be well in 20 or 30 days this information relieved me very much. I examined the wound and found it a very bad flesh wound the ball had passed through the fleshey part of his left thy below the hip bone and cut the cheek of the right buttock for 3 inches in length and the debth of the ball. Capt L. informed me the accident happened the day before by one of the men Peter Crusat misstakeig him in the thick bushes to be an Elk. Capt Lewis with this Crusat and Several other men were out in the bottom Shooting of Elk, and had Scattered in a thick part of the woods in pursute of the Elk. Crusat Seeing Capt L. passing through the bushes and takeing him to be an Elk from the Colour of his Cloathes which were of leather and very nearly that of the Elk fired and unfortunately the ball passed through the thy as aforesaid. Capt Lewis thinking it indians who had Shot him hobbled to the canoes as fast as possible and was followered by Crusat, the mistake was then discovered. This Crusat is near Sighted and has the use of but one eye, he is an attentive industerous man and one whome we both have placed the greatest Confidence in dureing the whole rout.—After Capt. Lewis and my Self parted at Travellers rest, he with the Indians proceeded down the West Side of Clarks river Seven miles and crossed on rafts 2 miles below the East fork 120 yards wide, after Crossing the river he proceeded up the North Side of the east fork and encampd. here the Indians left him and proceeded down Clarks river in Serch of the Tushepaws. an Indian man Came up with Cap L. from the W. of the mountains and proceeded on with those who had accompanied us. Capt. L. proceeded up the E. fork of Clarks river 17 ms. to the enterance of Cokahlarishkit river or the river to buffalow, he proceeded up on the North Side of this river which is 60 yards wide crossing Several Small Streams and the N. fork, and passing over part of the dividing mountain onto the waters of Deabourns river in the plains and in a Derection to the N. extremity of Easte range of rocky mountains which pass the Missouri at the pine Island Rapid. from thence he bore his Course to the N E untill he Struck Meadcin river near where that river Enters the rocky Mts. and proceeded down Medicine river to the Missouri at the white bear Islands at the upper part of the portage. this rout is a very good one tho not the most derect rout, the most derect rout would be to proceed up the Missouri above Dearborns river and take a right hand road & fall on a South branch of the Cokatlarishkit R. and proceed down that river to the main road but the best rout would be from the falls of the Missouri by fort mountain and passing the N. extremity of that range of the Rocky Mountains which pass the Missouri at the pine Island rapid Course nearly S. W. and to the gap through which the great road passeds the dividing mountain the distance from the falls to this gap about 45 miles through a tolerable leavel plain on an old indian road. and the distance from thence to Clarks river is 105 miles. The total distance from the falls of the Missouri to Clarks river is only 150 miles of a tolerable road—Capt L. arived at the white Bear Islands and encampd. on the West Side of the Missouri and in the morning he discovered that the Indians had taken of Seven of his best horses, drewyer prosued the indians two day's on the rout towards Clarks river. he Saw their camp on Dearborns river near the road on which Capt. Lewis & party Come on a by place where they had left only one or two day at this encampment he Saw great appearanc of horses—on the return of Drewyer Capt L. took Drewyer & the 2 fieldses & proceeded on his intended rout up Marias river leaving Sergt. Gass, Thompson, Frazier, Werner, McNeal & Goodrich at the portage to prepare Geer and repar the wheels & Carrage against the arival of the Canoes and he also left 4 horses for the purpose of hauling the Canoes across. The Canoes arrived on the 16th, and on the 26th they had all except one across, the Plains becom So muddy from the emence rains which had fallen, that they Could not get her over the portage. on the 28th they joined Capt Lewis at the Grog Spring a fiew miles above the enterance of Marias river From the Falls of Missouri Capt. L. proceeded on with Drewyer & the 2 fieldses Courss
Thursday, August 12, 1806 - I set out early this morning and hadn't gone far before Shannon realized he had lost his tomahawk. I told him to land his skin canoe and go back to our camp from last night to search for it, while I continued on with the two wooden canoes and one skin canoe to a large bottom on the northeast side, above the head of Jins Island. I landed to have breakfast and wait for Shannon and Gibson to arrive. I sent Shields and Labiech to hunt deer in the bottom. At 2 PM, Shannon and Gibson arrived, having found the tomahawk at our camp. They had killed three elk. One of the buffalo skin canoes accidentally got a hole about six inches wide. I directed two of the men to patch the canoe with a piece of elk skin over the hole, which they did, and it held up perfectly; after that, the canoe didn't leak at all. The two hunters returned without having killed anything. At noon, Captain Lewis came into sight with the party that went by way of the Missouri, as well as the one that accompanied him from Traveler's Rest on Clark's River. I was alarmed when the canoes landed and learned that Captain Lewis had been wounded in an accident. I found him lying in the perogue; he told me that his wound was slight and that he would be fine in 20 or 30 days, which relieved me greatly. I examined the wound and found it to be a serious flesh wound—the bullet had passed through the fleshy part of his left thigh below the hip bone and cut the right buttock cheek, three inches long and deep from the bullet. Captain Lewis informed me that the accident happened the day before when one of the men, Peter Crusat, mistook him in the thick bushes for an elk. Captain Lewis, Crusat, and several other men were out in the bottom shooting elk and had scattered in a dense part of the woods in pursuit of them. Crusat saw Captain Lewis moving through the bushes and, mistaking him for an elk due to the color of his leather clothing, fired. Unfortunately, the bullet struck his thigh as described. Thinking it was Indians who shot him, Captain Lewis hobbled to the canoes as quickly as he could, followed by Crusat, at which point the mistake was revealed. Crusat is near-sighted and has the use of only one eye; he is an attentive and hardworking man, one whom we both have placed great confidence in during the entire journey. After Captain Lewis and I parted at Traveler's Rest, he and the Indians traveled down the west side of Clark's River seven miles and crossed on rafts two miles below the east fork, which is 120 yards wide. After crossing the river, he went up the north side of the east fork and camped there. The Indians left him and moved down Clark's River in search of the Tushepaws. An Indian man came up to Captain Lewis from the west of the mountains and continued on with those who had accompanied us. Captain Lewis went up the east fork of Clark's River 17 miles to the entrance of Cokahlarishkit River, or the river to the buffalo. He traveled up on the north side of this river, which is 60 yards wide, crossing several small streams and the north fork, passing over part of the dividing mountain onto the waters of Deabourn's River in the plains, moving toward the northern end of the east range of the Rocky Mountains that cross the Missouri at the Pine Island rapid. From there, he headed northeast until he reached Medicine River, near where that river enters the Rocky Mountains, and continued down Medicine River to the Missouri at the White Bear Islands, at the upper part of the portage. This route is good, although not the most direct; the most direct route would be to go up the Missouri above Dearborn's River, take a right-hand route to connect with a southern branch of Cokahlarishkit River, and proceed down that river to the main road. However, the best route would lead from the falls of the Missouri by Fort Mountain, passing the northern end of that range of the Rocky Mountains, which crosses the Missouri at the Pine Island rapid, nearly southwest, to the gap through which the great road passes through the dividing mountain. The distance from the falls to this gap is about 45 miles on a reasonably level plain along an old Indian road, and the distance from there to Clark's River is 105 miles. The total distance from the falls of the Missouri to Clark's River is just 150 miles on a decent road. Captain Lewis arrived at the White Bear Islands and camped on the west side of the Missouri. In the morning, he discovered that the Indians had taken seven of his best horses. Drewyer pursued the Indians for two days along the route towards Clark's River. He saw their camp on Dearborn's River near the road that Captain Lewis and his party had taken, where they had only stayed for a day or two; at this encampment, he noticed a lot of signs of horses. Upon Drewyer's return, Captain Lewis took Drewyer and the two Fields brothers and continued on his intended route up Marias River, leaving Sergeant Gass, Thompson, Frazier, Werner, McNeal, and Goodrich at the portage to prepare gear and repair the wheels and carriage in anticipation of the canoes' arrival. He also left four horses for hauling the canoes across. The canoes arrived on the 16th, and by the 26th, they had all but one across. The plains became so muddy from the immense rains that had fallen that they couldn't get it over the portage. On the 28th, they joined Captain Lewis at Grog Spring, a few miles above the entrance of Marias River. From the falls of the Missouri, Captain Lewis proceeded on with Drewyer and the two Fields brothers.
On the 26th of July Capt Lewis Set out on his return to the enterance of Marias river to meet with the party with, the Canoes from the falls. his course was through the plains
On July 26th, Captain Lewis set out on his way back to the entrance of the Marias River to meet up with the group with the canoes from the falls. His route took him through the plains.
S. E. 5 Miles—passing a Small Creek from the mts
S. E. 5 Miles—crossing a small creek from the mountains
S. 70° E. 9 Miles to a principal branch of Marias River 65 yards wide not very deep at 7 mile. this last branch is Shallow and rapid about the Size of the former from the S W. both of those Streams Contain a great preportion of timber—here we find the 3 Specis of Cotton before mentioned
S. 70° E. 9 miles to a main branch of Marias River, 65 yards wide and not very deep at 7 miles. This last branch is shallow and fast-flowing, about the same size as the previous one from the SW. Both of these streams have a lot of timber—here we find the 3 species of cotton mentioned earlier.
N 80° E. 4 miles down Marias river and met with 8 Indians of the Blackfoot nation with about 30 horses, those Indians professed friendship and Set out with him and encamped together the night of the 26th of July, thy informed him that there was two large bands of their nation in that quarter one of which would be at the enterance of Marias river in a fiew days. they also informed that a french Trader was with one of those bands, that they traded with the white people on the Suskashwen River at 6 easy days march or about 150 miles distant from whome they precured Guns Powder Lead blankets &c. in exchange for wolf and beaver Skins. Capt Lewis gave them a Flag Meadel & Handkerchief Capt. L. informed those Indians where he was from & where he had been and his objects & friendly views &c. of which they appeared to be well Satisfied.
N 80° E. 4 miles down the Marias River, he met 8 members of the Blackfoot nation with about 30 horses. These Indians expressed friendship, set out with him, and camped together the night of July 26th. They informed him that there were two large bands of their nation in the area, one of which would be at the entrance of the Marias River in a few days. They also mentioned that a French trader was with one of those bands, who traded with the white people on the Saskatchewan River, about 150 miles away—roughly a six-day march—where they obtained guns, powder, lead, blankets, etc., in exchange for wolf and beaver skins. Captain Lewis gave them a flag, medal, and handkerchief. Captain Lewis told those Indians where he was from, where he had been, and about his objectives and friendly intentions, which they seemed to appreciate.
"on the morning of the 27th at day light the indians got up and crouded around the fire, Jo. Field who was on post had carelessly laid his gun down behind him near where his brother was Sleeping. one of the Indians Slipd. behind him and took his gun and that of his brother unperceived by him, at the Same instant two others advanced and Seized the guns of Drewyer and Capt Lewis who were yet asleep. Jo. Fields Seeing this turned about to take his gun and Saw the fellow running off with his and his brothers, he called to his brother who instantly jumped up and prosued the indian with him whome they overtook at the distance of 50 or 60 paces Siezed their guns and rested them from him and R. Field as he Seized his gun Stabed the indian to the heart with his knif who fell dead; (this Cap L. did not know untill Some time after.) drewyer who awoke at the first alarm jumped up and Seized & rested his gun from the indian &c. Capt L. awoke and asked what was the matter Seeing Drewyer in a Scuffle for his gun he turned to get his gun and found her gorn, he drew a pistol from his holsters and prosued the Indian whom he Saw in possession of his gun making off he presented the pistol and the indian lay down the gun. the two Fields Came up and drew up to Shoot the Indian which Capt L. forbid the indians then attempted to drive off all the horses. Capt L. derected the men to fire on them if they attempted to drive off the horses, and prosued two fellows who Continued to drive of his horses he Shot the indian who had taken his gun and then in possession of his horse through the belly, he fell and raised on his elbow and fired at Capt L. the other made his escape into a nitch out of Sight with his bow and arrows and as Capt L. guns was empty and he without his Shot pouch he returnd. to the Camp where the 2 fields and Drewyer joind him having prosued the indians across the river the were now in possession of the most of their own as well as the indian horses and a gun Several bows & arrows and all the indians baggage the gun & Some feathers and flag they took and burnt all the other articles. and Saddled up a many of the best horses as they wished with Some Spear horses, and Set out for to intersept the party at Marias river and proceded on a little to the S. of East 112 Miles to the Missouri at the Grog Spring. here they met with Canoes and party decending joined them leaving their horses on the river bank, and proceeded on to the enterance of Marias river opened the deposits, found Several articles damaged. 3 Beaver traps could not be found, the red perogue unfit for Service, from thenc they proceeded without delay to the River Rochejhone See cources of Capt Lewis rout in next book."
"On the morning of the 27th, at daylight, the Indians got up and crowded around the fire. Jo. Field, who was on watch, had carelessly laid his gun down behind him near where his brother was sleeping. One of the Indians slipped behind him and took his gun and his brother's without him noticing. At the same time, two others came up and grabbed the guns of Drewyer and Capt. Lewis, who were still asleep. Jo. Fields saw this, turned around to grab his gun, and saw the guy running off with his and his brother's guns. He called to his brother, who immediately jumped up and chased the Indian with him. They caught up with him at a distance of 50 or 60 paces, grabbed their guns back, and while R. Field retrieved his gun, he stabbed the Indian in the heart with his knife, killing him; (Cap. L. didn't know about this until some time later.) Drewyer, who woke up at the first alarm, jumped up and wrested his gun back from the Indian. Capt. L. woke up and asked what was happening. Seeing Drewyer struggling for his gun, he turned to grab his own gun and discovered it was gone. He pulled out a pistol from his holster and chased the Indian he saw leaving with his gun. He aimed the pistol, and the Indian dropped the gun. The two Fields approached, ready to shoot the Indian, which Capt. L. forbade. The Indians then attempted to drive off all the horses. Capt. L. directed the men to shoot if they tried to take the horses and pursued two of them who continued to drive off his horses. He shot the Indian who had taken his gun and was now on his horse, hitting him in the belly. The Indian fell but managed to raise himself on his elbow and fired at Capt. L. while the other escaped into a nook out of sight with his bow and arrows. Since Capt. L.'s gun was empty and he had no shot pouch, he returned to camp where the two Fields and Drewyer joined him. Having chased the Indians across the river, they were now in possession of most of their own horses as well as the Indian horses, a gun, several bows and arrows, and all the Indians' baggage. They took the gun and some feathers and flags, burned all the other items, and saddled up as many of the best horses as they wanted, including some spare horses. They set out to intercept the party at Marias River and proceeded a little southeast for 112 miles to the Missouri at Grog Spring. There they encountered canoes and a descending party joined them, leaving their horses on the riverbank, and continued on to the entrance of Marias River. They opened the deposits and found several damaged articles. Three beaver traps were missing, and the red pirogue was unfit for service. From there, they proceeded without delay to the River Rochejhone. See the course of Capt. Lewis' route in the next book."
at 2 P.M. Shannon & Gibson arived in the Skin Canoe with the Skins and the greater part of the flesh of 3 Elk which they had killed a fiew miles above. the two men Dixon & Handcock the two men we had met above came down intending to proceed on down with us to the Manclans. at 3 P M we proceded on all together having left the 2 leather Canoes on the bank. a little below the enterance of (Jos) Shabonos Creek we Came too on a large Sand point from the S. E. Side and Encamped. the wind blew very hard from the S W. and Some rain. I washed Capt L. wound which has become Sore and Somewhat painfull to him.
At 2 PM, Shannon & Gibson arrived in the Skin Canoe with the hides and most of the meat from three elk they had hunted a few miles upstream. The two men, Dixon & Handcock, whom we had met earlier, came down with the intention of continuing on with us to the Manclans. At 3 PM, we all set off together, having left the two leather canoes on the bank. A little downstream from the entrance to (Jos) Shabonos Creek, we stopped at a large sand point on the southeast side and set up camp. The wind was blowing hard from the southwest, and there was some rain. I cleaned Captain L.’s wound, which has become sore and quite painful for him.
[Clark, August 13, 1806]
Friday 13th August 1806 the last night was very Cold with a Stiff breeze from the N. W. all hands were on board and we Set out at Sunrize and proceeded on very well with a Stiff breeze astern the greater part of the day. passed the enterance of the Little Missouri river at 8 A.M. and arived at the Enterance of Myry river at Sun Set and encamped on the N E Side haveing came by the assistance of the wind, the Current and our oars 86 miles. below the little bason I with Drewyer walked through the N. E point. we Saw an Elk and Several deer. Drewyer wounded the Elk but could not get him. I joined the perogus & party again in the bend below and proceeded on. Some indians were Seen in a Skin Canoe below, they were decending from an old Camp of theirs on the S. W. Side, those I Suppose to be Some of the Minetaras who had been up on a hunting expedition, one Canoe was left at their Camp. we had not proceeded far before I discovered two indians on a high hill. nothing very remarkable took place. the Misquetors are not So troublesom this evening as they have been. the air is cool &c.
Friday, August 13, 1806, was a cold night with a strong breeze from the northwest. Everyone was onboard, and we set out at sunrise, making good progress with a steady wind at our backs for most of the day. We passed the entrance of the Little Missouri River at 8 A.M. and arrived at the entrance of Myry River at sunset, camping on the northeast side after traveling 86 miles with the help of the wind, the current, and our oars. Below the little basin, I walked through the northeast point with Drewyer. We saw an elk and several deer. Drewyer wounded the elk but couldn't catch it. I rejoined the pirogue and the party in the bend below and continued on. We spotted some Indians in a skin canoe below; they were coming from one of their old camps on the southwest side. I suspect they were some of the Minetaras who had been out on a hunting trip, leaving one canoe at their camp. We hadn't gone far when I noticed two Indians on a high hill. Nothing particularly noteworthy happened. The mosquitoes aren't as bothersome this evening as they have been, and the air is cool, etc.
[Clark, August 14, 1806]
Thursday 14th August 1806 Set out at Sunrise and proceeded on. when we were opposit the Minetares Grand Village we Saw a number of the Nativs viewing of we derected the Blunderbuses fired Several times, Soon after we Came too at a Croud of the nativs on the bank opposit the Village of the Shoe Indians or Mah-har-ha's at which place I saw the principal Chief of the Little Village of the Menitarre & the principal Chief of the Mah-har-has. those people were extreamly pleased to See us. the Chief of the little Village of the Menetarias cried most imoderately, I enquired the Cause and was informed it was for the loss of his Son who had been killed latterly by the Blackfoot Indians. after a delay of a fiew minits I proceeded on to the black Cats Village on the N. E. Side of the Missouri where I intended to Encamp but the Sand blew in Such a manner that we deturmined not to continu on that Side but return to the Side we had left. here we were visited by all the inhabitants of this village who appeared equally as well pleased to See us as those above. I walked up to the Black Cats village & eate some Simnins with him, and Smoked a pipe this Village I discovered had been rebuilt Since I left it and much Smaller than it was; on enquirey into the Cause was informed that a quarrel had taken place and Lodges had removed to the opposd Side. I had Soon as I landed despatched Shabono to the Minetarras inviting the Chiefs to visit us, & Drewyer down to the lower Village of the Mandans to ask Mr. Jessomme to Come and enterpret for us. Mr. Jessomme arived and I spoke to the chiefs of the Village informing them that we Spoke to them as we had done when we were with them last and we now repeeted our envitation to the principal Chiefs of all the Villages to accompany us and to the U States &c. &c. the Black Cat Chief of the Mandans, Spoke and informed me that he wished to Visit the United States and his Great Father but was afraid of the Scioux who were yet at war with them and had killed Several of their men Since we had left them, and were on the river below and would Certainly kill him if he attempted to go dow.i. I indeavered to do away with his objections by informig him that we would not Suffer those indians to hurt any of our red Children who Should think proper to accompany us, and on their return they would be equally protected, and their presents which would be very liberal, with themselves, Conveyed to their own Country at the expence of the U. States &c. &c. The chief promised us Some corn tomorrow. after the Council I directed the Canoes to cross the river to a brook opposit where we Should be under the wind and in a plain where we would be Clear of musquetors & after Crossing the Chief of the Mah har has told me if I would Send with him he would let me have some corn. I directed Sergt Gass & 2 men to accompany him to his Village, they Soon returned loaded with Corn. the Chief and his wife also came down. I gave his wife a fiew Needles &c.—The Great Chif of all the Menitarres the one eye Came to Camp also Several other Chiefs of the different Villages. I assembled all the Chiefs on a leavel Spot on the band and Spoke to them & see next book.
Thursday, August 14, 1806 Set out at sunrise and moved on. When we were opposite the Minetares Grand Village, we saw a number of the natives watching us. We fired the blunderbusses several times. Soon after, we approached a crowd of the natives on the bank opposite the Village of the Shoe Indians or Mah-har-ha's, where I saw the main Chief of the Little Village of the Menitarre and the chief of the Mah-har-has. Those people were extremely pleased to see us. The chief of the little Village of the Menetarias cried very loudly. I asked why, and was told it was because of the loss of his son, who had recently been killed by the Blackfoot Indians. After a few minutes' delay, I continued on to the Black Cats Village on the northeast side of the Missouri, where I intended to camp, but the sand blew in such a way that we decided not to stay on that side and returned to the side we had left. Here, we were visited by all the inhabitants of this village, who seemed just as happy to see us as those we had encountered before. I walked up to the Black Cats village, ate some food with him, and smoked a pipe. I found that this village had been rebuilt since I had last left and was much smaller than before. Upon inquiring why, I was informed that a quarrel had occurred and some lodges had moved to the opposite side. As soon as I landed, I sent Shabono to the Minetarras inviting the chiefs to visit us, and Drewyer went down to the lower Village of the Mandans to ask Mr. Jessomme to come and interpret for us. Mr. Jessomme arrived, and I spoke to the chiefs of the village, letting them know that we were addressing them just as we had during our last visit. We reiterated our invitation to the principal chiefs of all the villages to accompany us to the United States, etc. The Black Cat Chief of the Mandans spoke up and told me that he wanted to visit the United States and see his Great Father but was afraid of the Sioux, who were still at war with them and had killed several of their men since we had left. They were downriver and would definitely kill him if he tried to come down. I tried to reassure him by saying that we would not allow those Indians to harm any of our red children who may choose to accompany us, and that upon their return, they would be fully protected, with their generous presents brought back to their own country at the expense of the United States, etc. The chief promised us some corn for tomorrow. After the council, I ordered the canoes to cross the river to a creek opposite where we would be sheltered from the wind and in a flat area free from mosquitoes. After crossing, the chief of the Mah-har-has told me that if I sent someone with him, he would get me some corn. I instructed Sergeant Gass and two men to accompany him to his village. They soon returned loaded with corn. The chief and his wife also came down. I gave his wife a few needles and other things. The Great Chief of all the Menitarres, the one-eyed man, also came to camp, along with several other chiefs from different villages. I gathered all the chiefs on a level spot by the riverbank and spoke to them, and see next book.
[Clark, August 15, 1806]
Thursday August 15th 1806 Continued Mandans Vilg after assembling the Chiefs and Smokeing one pipe, I informed them that I Still Spoke the Same words which we had Spoken to them when we first arived in their Country in the fall of 1804. we then envited them to visit their great father the president of the U. States and to hear his own Councils and receive his Gifts from his own hands as also See the population of a government which Can at their pleasure protect and Secur you from all your enimies, and chastize all those who will Shut their years to his Councils. we now offer to take you at the expense of our Government and Send you back to your Country again with a considerable present in merchendize which you will recive of your great Father. I urged the necessity of their going on with us as it would be the means of hastening those Supples of Merchindize which would be Sent to their Country and exchanged as before mentioned for a moderate price in Pelteries and furs &c. the great Chief of the Menetaras Spoke, he Said he wished to go down and See his great father very much, but that the Scioux were in the road and would most certainly kill him or any others who Should go down they were bad people and would not listen to any thing which was told them. when he Saw us last we told him that we had made peace with all the nations below, Since that time the Seioux had killed 8 of their people and Stole a number of their horses. he Said that he had opened his ears and followed our Councils, he had made peace with the Chyennes and rocky mountains indians, and repieted the same objecctions as mentioned. that he went to war against none and was willing to receive all nations as friends. he Said that the Ricaras had Stolen from his people a number of horses at different times and his people had killed 2 Ricaras. if the Sieoux were at peace with them and Could be depended on he as also other Chiefs of the villages would be glad to go and See their great father, but as they were all afraid of the Sieoux they Should not go down &c.
Thursday, August 15, 1806 Continuing with the Mandans, after gathering the Chiefs and smoking a pipe, I told them that I was still expressing the same words we shared when we first arrived in their country in the fall of 1804. We then invited them to visit their great father, the president of the United States, to hear his own council and receive his gifts directly from him, as well as to see the population of a government that can protect and secure them from all their enemies, and punish anyone who ignores his counsel. We now offered to bring them at the expense of our government and send them back to their country with a considerable gift of merchandise from their great father. I emphasized how important it was for them to accompany us, as it would help speed up the supplies of merchandise that would be sent to their country, exchanged for a reasonable price in pelts, furs, etc. The great Chief of the Menetaras spoke up, saying he really wanted to go down and see his great father, but that the Sioux were in the way and would most certainly kill him or anyone else who tried. They were bad people and wouldn’t listen to anything told to them. The last time we spoke, we told him we had made peace with all the nations below, but since then, the Sioux had killed eight of their people and stolen several of their horses. He said he had opened his ears to our counsel, had made peace with the Cheyennes and Rocky Mountain Indians, but repeated the same concerns as before. He stated that he did not go to war with anyone and was willing to accept all nations as friends. He mentioned that the Ricaras had stolen several horses from his people at different times, and his people had killed two Ricaras. If the Sioux were at peace with them and could be trusted, he and other chiefs from the villages would gladly go and see their great father, but since they were all afraid of the Sioux, they would not go down, etc.
The Black Cat Chief of the Mandans Village on the North Side of the Missouri Sent over and requested me to go over to his village which envertation I axceptd and crossed over to his village. he had a parcel of Corn about 12 bushuls in a pile in his lodge. he told me that his people had but little corn part of which they had given me. after takeing a Smoke he informed me that as the Sieoux were very troublesom and the road to his great father dangerous none of this village would go down with us. I told the Cheifs and wariers of the village who were there present that we were anxious that Some of the village Should go and See their great father and hear his good words & recve his bountifull gifts &c. and told them to pitch on Some Man on which they could rely on and Send him to See their Great father, they made the Same objections which the Chief had done before. a young man offered to go down, and they all agreeed for him to go down the charector of this young man I knew as a bad one and made an objection as to his age and Chareckter at this time Gibson who was with me informed me that this young man had Stole his knife and had it then in his possession, this I informed the Chief and directed him to give up the knife he delivered the knife with a very faint apology for his haveing it in his possession. I then reproached those people for wishing to Send Such a man to See and hear the words of So great a man as their great father; they hung their heads and Said nothing for Some time when the Cheif Spoke and Said that they were afraid to Send any one for fear of their being killed by the Sieux. after Smoking a pipe and relateing Some passages I recrossed to our Camp-. being informed by one of our enterpreters that the 2d Chief of the Mandans Comonly Called the little Crow intended to accompany us down, I took Charbono and walked to the Village to See this Chief and talk with him on the Subject. he told me he had deturmined to go down, but wished to have a council first with his people which would be in the after part of the day. I smoked a pipe with the little Crow and returned to the boat. Colter one of our men expressed a desire to join Some trappers who offered to become Shearers with and furnish traps &c. the offer a very advantagious one, to him, his Services Could be dispenced with from this down and as we were disposed to be of Service to any one of our party who had performed their duty as well as Colter had done, we agreed to allow him the prvilage provided no one of the party would ask or expect a Similar permission to which they all agreeed that they wished Colter every Suckcess and that as we did not wish any of them to Seperate untill we Should arive at St. Louis they would not apply or expect it &c. The Maharha Chief brought us Some Corn, as did also the Chief of the little village of the Menetarras on mules of which they have Several. The evening is Cool and windy. great number of the nativs of the different villages Came to view us and exchange robes with our men for their Skins—we gave Jo Colter Some Small articles which we did not want and Some powder & lead. the party also gave him Several articles which will be usefull to him on his expedittion.—This evening Charbono informed me that our back was scercely turned before a war party from the two menetarry villages followed on and attacked and killed the Snake Indians whome we had Seen and in the engagement between them and the Snake indians they had lost two men one of which was the Son of the principal Chief of the little village of the menitarras. that they had also went to war from the Menetarras and killed two Ricaras. he further informed me that a missunderstanding had taken place between the Mandans & minetarras and had verry nearly come to blows about a woman, the Menitarres at length presented a pipe and a reconsilliation took place between them
The Black Cat, the Chief of the Mandan Village on the North Side of the Missouri, sent for me to visit his village, which I accepted. I crossed over to his village, where he had about 12 bushels of corn piled up in his lodge. He told me that his people had very little corn, some of which they had already given to me. After having a smoke, he mentioned that since the Sioux were very troublesome and the road to his great father was dangerous, no one from his village would go with us. I told the chiefs and warriors present that we were eager for someone from the village to go see their great father, hear his good words, and receive his generous gifts, and urged them to choose a reliable man to send. They raised the same concerns the Chief had previously voiced. A young man volunteered to go, and they all agreed, but I knew this young man had a bad reputation and raised concerns about his age and character. At this point, Gibson, who was with me, informed me that this young man had stolen his knife and still had it with him. I relayed this to the Chief and instructed him to retrieve the knife. The young man returned the knife with a weak apology for having taken it. I then scolded them for considering sending such a man to meet and hear the words of someone as important as their great father. They hung their heads and stayed silent for a while until the Chief spoke, saying they were afraid to send anyone for fear of being killed by the Sioux. After smoking a pipe and sharing some stories, I returned to our Camp. I learned from one of our interpreters that the second Chief of the Mandans, commonly known as the Little Crow, intended to join us. I took Charbono and walked to the village to speak with this Chief. He told me he had decided to go down but wanted to hold a council with his people later that day. I smoked a pipe with Little Crow and returned to the boat. Colter, one of our men, expressed interest in joining some trappers who offered to share their resources and provide traps, which was a very advantageous offer for him. His services could be spared from then on, and since we wanted to support any party member who had fulfilled their duties as Colter had, we agreed to let him take this opportunity, provided no one else in the party would request the same. They all agreed to wish Colter success and assured me they wouldn’t seek to separate until we reached St. Louis. The Maharha Chief and the Chief of a small village of the Menetarras both brought us some corn on mules, as they have several. The evening was cool and windy. A large number of natives from various villages came to watch us and trade robes for skins—we gave Jo Colter some small items we didn’t need along with some powder and lead. The group also gave him various items that would be useful for his expedition. That evening, Charbono informed me that as soon as we left, a war party from the two Menetarras villages had followed and attacked the Snake Indians we had seen earlier, resulting in the death of two men, one of whom was the son of the principal Chief of the little Menitarras village. They also went to war against the Menitarras and killed two Ricaras. He further informed me that a misunderstanding had nearly led to a fight between the Mandans and Menitarras over a woman, but the Menitarras eventually offered a peace pipe, leading to a reconciliation between them.
[Clark, August 16, 1806]
Friday 16th August 1806 a cool morning. Sent up Sergt. Pryor to the mandan village, for Some Corn which they offered to give us. he informed that they had more Corn collected for us than our Canoes Could Carry Six load of which he brought down. I thanked the Chief for his kindness and informed him that our Canoes would not Carry any more Corn than we had already brought down. at 10 A. M the Chiefs of the different villages came to See us and Smoke a pipe &c. as our Swivel Could no longer be Serveceable to us as it could not be fireed on board the largest Perogue, we Concluded to make a present of it to the Great Chief of the Menetaras (the One Eye) with a view to ingratiate him more Strongly in our favour I had the Swivel Charged and Collected the Chiefs in a circle around it and adressed them with great ceremoney. told them I had listened with much attention to what the One Eye had Said yesterday and beleived that he was Sincere & Spoke from his heart. I reproached them very Severely for not attending to what had been Said to them by us in Council in the fall of 1804 and at different times in the winter of 1804 & 5, and told them our backs were Scercely turned befor a party followed and killed the pore defenceless snake indians whom we had taken by the hand & told them not to be afraid that you would never Strike them again &c. also mentioned the ricers &c. The little Cherry old Chief of the Menetarras Spoke as follows Viz: "Father we wish to go down with you to See our Great Father, but we know the nations below and are afraid of the Scioux who will be on the river and will kill us on our return home. The Scioux has Stolen our horses and killed 8 of our men Since you left us, and the Ricaras have also Struck us. we Staid at home and listened to what you had told us. we at length went to war against the Scioux and met with Ricaras and killed two of them, they were on their way to Strike us. We will attend to your word and not hurt any people all Shall be Welcom and we Shall do as you direct-." The One Eye Said his ears would always be open to the word of his great father and Shut against bad Council &c. I then a good deel of Ceremony made a preasent of the Swivel to the One Eye Chief and told him when he fired this gun to remember the words of his great father which we had given him. this gun had anounced the words of his great father to all the nations which we had Seen &c. &c. after the council was over the gun was fired & delivered, they Chief appeared to be much pleased and conveyed it immediately to his village &c. we Settled with and discharged Colter. in the evening I walked to the village to See the little Crow and know when he would be ready, took with me a flag intending to give him to leave at his lodge but to my astonishment he informed me he had declined going down the reason of which I found was through a jellousy between himself and the principal Chief he refused a flag & we Sent for Mr. Jessomme and told him to use his influn to provail on one of the Chiefs to acompany us and we would employ him. he informed us soon after that the big white Chief would go if we would take his wife & Son & Jessoms wife & 2 children we wer obliged to agree to do
Friday, August 16, 1806, was a cool morning. I sent Sergeant Pryor to the Mandan village to get some corn they offered us. He informed me that they had collected more corn than our canoes could carry, and he brought down six loads of it. I thanked the Chief for his kindness and told him that our canoes couldn't carry any more corn than we had already brought down. At 10 A.M., the chiefs of the different villages came to see us and smoke a pipe, etc. Since our swivel gun could no longer be of use to us as it couldn't be fired from the largest perogue, we decided to give it as a gift to the Great Chief of the Menetaras (One Eye) to strengthen our relationship with him. I had the gun charged, gathered the chiefs in a circle around it, and addressed them with great ceremony. I told them I had listened carefully to what One Eye had said yesterday and believed he was sincere and speaking from the heart. I strongly reproached them for not paying attention to what we had discussed in council in the fall of 1804 and at various times during the winter of 1804-5, mentioning that our backs were hardly turned before a group followed and killed the poor defenseless Snake Indians, whom we had taken by the hand and reassured, telling them they had nothing to fear from us. I also mentioned the Ricara. The little Cherry, the old chief of the Menetaras, spoke as follows: "Father, we wish to go down with you to see our Great Father, but we know the nations below and are afraid of the Sioux, who will be on the river and will kill us on our return home. The Sioux have stolen our horses and killed eight of our men since you left us, and the Ricara have also attacked us. We stayed home and listened to what you told us. Eventually, we went to war against the Sioux and encountered the Ricara and killed two of them; they were on their way to strike us. We will heed your words and not harm anyone; all shall be welcome, and we will do as you direct." One Eye said his ears would always be open to the words of his great father and closed to bad counsel, etc. I then, with a great deal of ceremony, presented the swivel gun to the One Eye Chief and told him that when he fired this gun, he should remember the words of his great father we had given him. This gun had announced the words of his great father to all the nations we had seen, etc., etc. After the council was over, the gun was fired and delivered. The chief seemed very pleased and took it immediately to his village. We settled with and paid off Colter. In the evening, I walked to the village to see the little Crow and find out when he would be ready. I brought a flag with me intending to give it to him to leave at his lodge, but to my surprise, he told me he had declined to go. I discovered that the reason was jealousy between him and the principal chief. He refused the flag, and we sent for Mr. Jessomme, telling him to use his influence to persuade one of the chiefs to accompany us, and we would employ him. Soon after, he informed us that the big white chief would go if we would take his wife and son and Jessomme's wife and two children. We had no choice but to agree.
[Clark, August 17, 1806]
Saturday 17th of August 1806 a Cool morning gave some powder & Ball to Big White Chief Settled with Touisant Chabono for his Services as an enterpreter the pric of a horse and Lodge purchased of him for public Service in all amounting to 500$ 33 1/3 cents. derected two of the largest of the Canoes be fastened together with poles tied across them So as to make them Study for the purpose of Conveying the Indians and enterpreter and their families
Saturday, August 17, 1806, a cool morning provided some powder and ball to Big White Chief. Settled with Toussaint Chabono for his services as an interpreter, the price of a horse and lodge purchased from him for public service totaled $500.33. Directed that two of the largest canoes be fastened together with poles tied across them to make them sturdy for conveying the Indians, the interpreter, and their families.
we were visited by all the principal Chiefs of the Menetarras to take their leave of us at 2 oClock we left our encampment after takeing leave of Colter who also Set out up the river in Company with Messrs. Dickson & Handcock. we also took our leave of T. Chabono, his Snake Indian wife and their Son Child who had accompanied us on our rout to the pacific Ocean in the Capacity of interpreter and interpretes. T. Chabono wished much to accompany us in the Said Capacity if we could have provailed the Menetarre Chiefs to dcend the river with us to the U. States, but as none of those chiefs of whoes language he was Conversent would accompany us, his Services were no longer of use to the U States and he was therefore discharged and paid up. we offered to convey him down to the Illinois if he Chose to go, he declined proceeding on at present, observing that he had no acquaintance or prospects of makeing a liveing below, and must continue to live in the way that he had done. I offered to take his little Son a butifull promising Child who is 19 months old to which they both himself & wife wer willing provided the Child had been weened. they observed that in one year the boy would be Sufficiently old to leave his mother & he would then take him to me if I would be so freindly as to raise the Child for him in Such a manner as I thought proper, to which I agreeed &c.—we droped down to the Big white Cheifs Mandan Village 1/2 a mile below on the South Side, all the Indians proceeded on down by land. and I walked to the lodge of the Chief whome I found Sorounded by his friends the men were Setting in a circle Smokeing and the womin Crying. he Sent his bagage with his wife & Son, with the Interpreter Jessomme & his wife and 2 children to the Canoes provided for them. after Smoking one pipe, and distributing Some powder & lead which we had given him, he informed me that he was ready and we were accompd to the Canoes by all the Village Maney of them Cried out aloud. as I was about to Shake with the Grand Cheifs of all the Villages there assembled they requested me to Set one minit longer with them which I readily agreed to and directed a pipe to be lit. the Cheifs informed that when we first came to their Country they did not beleive all we Said we then told them. but they were now Convinced that every thing we had told them were true, that they Should keep in memory every thing which we had Said to them, and Strictly attend to our advice, that their young men Should Stay at home and Should no go again to war against any nation, that if any atacted them they Should defend themselves, that we might depend on what they Said, and requested us to inform their great father. the also requested me to tell the Ricaras to Come and See them, not to be afraid that no harm Should be done them, that they were anxious to be in peace with them.
We were visited by all the main chiefs of the Menetarras to say goodbye. At 2 o'clock, we left our camp after bidding farewell to Colter, who also set off up the river with Messrs. Dickson and Handcock. We also said goodbye to T. Chabono, his Snake Indian wife, and their young son, who had accompanied us on our route to the Pacific Ocean as interpreters. T. Chabono really wanted to continue with us in that role if we could persuade the Menetarre chiefs to travel down the river with us to the U.S. However, since none of those chiefs, whose language he knew, would join us, his services were no longer needed, and he was therefore released and paid. We offered to take him down to Illinois if he wanted to go, but he declined at this time, saying he had no connections or prospects for making a living down there and needed to keep living as he had been. I offered to take his little son, a beautiful, promising child who is 19 months old. Both he and his wife were willing, provided the child was weaned. They said that in a year, the boy would be old enough to leave his mother, and then he would bring him to me if I would kindly raise the child in whatever way I thought appropriate, to which I agreed. We moved down to the Big White Chief's Mandan Village, half a mile down the river on the south side, while the other Indians traveled by land. I walked to the lodge of the chief, who was surrounded by his friends. The men were sitting in a circle smoking, and the women were crying. He sent his baggage with his wife and son, along with the interpreter Jessomme and his wife and two children, to the canoes provided for them. After smoking one pipe and distributing some powder and lead that we had given him, he informed me that he was ready, and we were escorted to the canoes by everyone from the village. Many of them cried out loudly. As I was about to shake hands with the grand chiefs of all the assembled villages, they asked me to sit with them for one more minute, which I readily agreed to, and directed that a pipe be lit. The chiefs told me that when we first came to their country, they didn’t believe everything we said. But now they were convinced that everything we had told them was true, and they should remember all that we had said and strictly follow our advice. They said their young men should stay at home and not go to war against any nation; if anyone attacked them, they should defend themselves. They wanted us to rely on what they said and requested us to inform their great father. They also asked me to tell the Ricaras to come and see them, assuring them not to be afraid, as no harm would come to them, and that they wanted to be at peace with them.
The Seeoux they Said they had no dependance in and Should kill them whenever they Came into their Country to do them harm &c. I told them that we had always told them to defend themselves, but not to Strike those nations we had taken by the hand, the Sieoux with whome they were at war we had never Seen on our return we Should inform their great fathe of their conduct towards his faithfull red Children and he would take Such Steps as will bring about a lasting peace between them and his faithfull red children. I informed them that we should inform the ricaras what they had requested &c. The Grand Chief of the Mineterres Said that the Great Cheif who was going down with to see their great father was a well as if he went also, and on his return he would be fully informed of the words of his great father, and requested us to take care of this Gt. Chief. we then Saluted them with a gun and Set out and proceeded on to Fort Mandan where I landed and went to view the old works the houses except one in the rear bastion was burnt by accident, Some pickets were Standing in front next to the river. we proceeded on to the old Ricara village the S E wind was so hard and the waves So high that we were obliged to Come too, & Camp on the S W Side near the old Village. (18 mils)
The Sioux said they had no loyalty to us and would kill them whenever they entered their territory to cause harm, etc. I told them that we had always advised them to defend themselves, but not to strike at those nations we had made peace with. The Sioux, with whom they were at war, we had never seen. Upon our return, we would inform their great father of their actions towards his loyal red children, and he would take steps to establish lasting peace between them and his loyal red children. I also let them know that we would inform the Ricara about their requests, etc. The Grand Chief of the Mineterres said that the great chief who was going down to see their great father would be well informed by the time he returned, and he asked us to take care of this great chief. We then saluted them with a gun and set out for Fort Mandan, where I landed and went to check the old works. The houses, except for one in the rear bastion, had been accidentally burned down. Some pickets were still standing in front next to the river. We continued on to the old Ricara village, but the southeast wind was so strong and the waves so high that we had to stop and camp on the southwest side near the old village. (18 miles)
[Clark, August 18, 1806]
Monday 18th August 1806. moderate rain last night, the wind of this morning from the S. E. as to cause the water to be So rough that we Could not proceed on untill 8 a.m. at which time it fell a little & we proceeded on tho the waves were yet high and the wind Strong. Saw Several Indians on either Side of the river. at 9 A.M. I saw an Indian running down the beech and appd. to be anxious to Speak to us I derected the Canoes to land. this Indian proved to be the brother of the Chief we had on board and Came down from his Camp at no great distance to take his leave of his brother. the Chief gave him a par of Legins and took an effectunate leave of his brother and we procedeed on haveing previously Sent on 2 canoes with hunters to kill Some meat at 2 P. M we overtook the Canoe hunters, they had killed three deer which was divided and we halted and Cooked Some dinner on the Sandbar. wind Still high and from the Same point. The Chief pointed out Several places where he Said his nation formerly lived and related Some extroadinary Stories of their tredition. after Dinner we proceeded on, to a point on the N E. Side opposit the remains of an old Mandan village a little below the enterance of Chiss-che for River and the place we Encamped as we assended this river 20th of October 1804 haveing come 40 miles today. after landing which was a little before night the hunters run out into the bottom and Killed four deer. The winds blew hard from the S. E. all day which retarded our progress very much after the fires were made I set my self down with the big white man Chiefe and made a number of enquiries into the tredition of his nation as well as the time of their inhabiting the number of Villages the remains of which we see on different parts of the river, as also the cause of their evacuation. he told me his nation first Came out of the ground where they had a great village. a grape vine grew down through the Earth to their village and they Saw light Some of their people assended by the grape vine upon the earth, and Saw Buffalow and every kind of animal also Grapes plumbs &c. they gathered Some grapes & took down the vine to the village, and they tasted and found them good, and deturmined to go up and live upon the earth, and great numbers climbed the vine and got upon earth men womin and children. at length a large big bellied woman in climbing broke the vine and fell and all that were left in the Village below has remained there ever Since (The Mandans beleive when they die that they return to this village) Those who were left on earth made a village on the river below and were very noumerous &c. he Said that he was born in the Village Opposit to our Camp and at that time his nation inhabited 7 villages as large as that and were full of people, the Sieoux and Small pox killed the greater part of them and made them So weak that all that were left only made two Small villages when Collected, which were built near the old Ricaras village above. their troubles with the Scioux & Pawnees or Ricaras Compelled them to move and build a village where they now live.
Monday, August 18, 1806. We had moderate rain last night, and this morning the wind from the southeast made the water so rough that we couldn’t move until 8 a.m. At that time, the water calmed down a bit, and we continued on, though the waves were still high and the wind was strong. We saw several Indians on each side of the river. At 9 a.m., I noticed an Indian running down the beach looking eager to talk to us, so I directed the canoes to land. This Indian turned out to be the brother of the Chief we had on board and had come from his camp nearby to say goodbye to his brother. The Chief gave him a pair of leggings and said a heartfelt farewell, and we proceeded on after sending two canoes ahead with hunters to find some meat. By 2 p.m., we caught up with the canoe hunters who had killed three deer, which were shared as we stopped to cook dinner on a sandbar. The wind stayed strong and remained from the same direction. The Chief pointed out several places where his people had previously lived and shared some extraordinary stories from their traditions. After dinner, we continued on to a point on the northeast side opposite the remnants of an old Mandan village just below the entrance of the Chiss-che River, where we camped, as we had done when we ascended this river on October 20, 1804, having traveled 40 miles today. After we landed, which was just before nightfall, the hunters went out into the strip of land and killed four deer. The winds blew hard from the southeast all day, which slowed us down significantly. Once the fires were made, I sat down with the big white man, the Chief, and asked him numerous questions about his people's traditions, their time of inhabiting the area, and the number of villages whose remains we could see along different parts of the river, as well as the reasons for their evacuation. He told me that his people first emerged from the ground where they had a large village. A grapevine grew down through the earth to their village, and they saw light. Some of their people climbed the grapevine to the surface and saw buffalo and every kind of animal, as well as grapes, plums, and other fruits. They gathered some grapes and brought the vine back to the village, tasted them, found them good, and decided to go up and live on the surface. Many climbed the vine and reached the earth—men, women, and children. Eventually, a large pregnant woman climbing the vine broke it and fell, and all those left in the village below have remained there ever since. (The Mandans believe that when they die, they return to this village.) Those who stayed on the surface created a village on the river below and grew very numerous. He stated that he was born in the village across from our camp and at that time, his people inhabited seven villages as large as that, filled with people. The Sioux and smallpox killed the majority of them, leaving them so weak that those who remained formed only two small villages when grouped together, which were built near the old Ricaras village upstream. Their troubles with the Sioux and Pawnees, or Ricaras, forced them to move and establish a village where they currently live.
he Said that the Menitarras Came out of the water to the East and Came to this Country and built a village near the mandans from whome they got Corn beens &c. they were very noumerous and resided in one village a little above this place on the opposit Side. they quarreled about a buffalow, and two bands left the village and went into the plains, (those two bands are now known bye the title Pounch, and Crow Indians.) the ballance of the Menetaras moved their village to where it now Stands where they have lived ever Since-
He said that the Menitarras came out of the water to the east and arrived in this country, where they built a village near the Mandans, from whom they obtained corn, beans, etc. They were very numerous and lived in one village a little above this place on the opposite side. They quarreled over a buffalo, and two bands left the village and went into the plains; those two bands are now known as the Pounch and Crow Indians. The rest of the Menitarras moved their village to where it stands now, and they have lived there ever since.
[Clark, August 19, 1806]
Tuesday 19th of August 1806 Some rain last night and this morning the wind rose and blew with great Violence untill 4 P. M and as our camp was on a Sand bar we were very much distressd with the blows of Sand. I directed the hunters to proceed on down the bottom and kill and butcher Some meat and if the wind Should lie that I should proceed on down to their Camp &c. Capt. Lewis'es wounds are heeling very fast, I am much in hope of his being able to walk in 8 or 10 days-. at 4 P. M the wind Seased to blow with that violence which it had done all day we Set out and proceeded on down. the hunters which was Sent out this morning killed 4 Elk & 12 deer near the river we came too and brought in the most of the flesh and proceeded on to a Sand on the N E Side and Encamped. the wind rose and become very Strong from the S. E. and a great appearance of rain. Jessomme the Interpreter let me have a piece of a lodge and the Squars pitched or Stretched it over Some Sticks, under this piece of leather I Slept dry, it is the only covering which I have had Suffecient to keep off the rain Since I left the Columbia. it began to rain moderately Soon after night. The Indians appear well Satisfyed with the party and mode of proceedure. we decended only 10 miles to day Saw Some Elk and buffalow on the Shore near where we Encamped. the Elk beginning to run. the Buffalow are done running & the bulls are pore.
Tuesday, August 19, 1806: We had some rain last night, and this morning the wind picked up and blew fiercely until 4 P.M. Our camp was on a sandbar, so we were really bothered by the sand blowing everywhere. I told the hunters to head downriver to find and process some meat, and if the wind calmed down, I planned to move down to their camp, etc. Capt. Lewis's wounds are healing quickly, and I’m hopeful he'll be able to walk in 8 to 10 days. At 4 P.M., the wind finally died down from the strong gusts it had all day, so we set off. The hunters we sent out this morning managed to kill 4 elk and 12 deer near the river, bringing back most of the meat. We moved on to a sandbank on the northeast side and set up camp. The wind picked up again, becoming very strong from the southeast, with a strong chance of rain. Jessomme the interpreter let me have a piece of a lodge, and the women stretched it over some sticks. Under this leather cover, I was able to sleep dry; it’s the only real shelter I’ve had to keep off the rain since I left the Columbia. It started to rain lightly soon after nightfall. The Indians seem very pleased with our group and how we’re proceeding. We only traveled 10 miles today, saw some elk and buffalo on the shore near our campsite. The elk started to run, while the buffalo have stopped running and the bulls are thin.
[Clark, August 20, 1806]
Wednesday 20th of August 1806 a violent hard rain about day light this morning. all wet except myself and the indians. we embarked a little after Sun rise wind moderate and ahead. we proceeded on at meridn. passed the enterance of Cannonball river imediately above is the remains of a large Sieoux encampment which appears to have been made this Spring. at 3 P M passed the enterance of Wardepon River Saw great number of wolves on the bank Some Buffalow & Elk, tho not so abundant as near the River Rochejhone. passed the place where we left the last encampment of Ricaras in the fall 1804 and encamped on a Sandbar from the N. E. Side, having made 8 miles only, the wind blew hard all day which caused the waves to rise high and flack over into the Small Canoes in Such a manner as to employ one hand in throwing the water out. The plains begin to Change their appearance the grass is turning of a yellow colour. I observe a great alteration in the Corrent course and appearance of this pt. of the Missouri. in places where there was Sand bars in the fall 1804 at this time the main Current passes, and where the current then passed is now a Sand bar Sand bars which were then naked are now covered with willow Several feet high. the enteranc of Some of the Rivers & Creeks Changed owing to the mud thrown into them, and a layor of mud over Some of the bottoms of 8 inches thick.
Wednesday, August 20, 1806, there was a heavy rain at dawn this morning. Everyone was wet except for me and the Indians. We set off a little after sunrise with a moderate headwind. We continued on at noon, passing the entrance of the Cannonball River. Right above it are the remains of a large Sioux campsite, which seems to have been set up this spring. At 3 PM, we passed the entrance of the Wardepon River and saw a large number of wolves on the banks, as well as some buffalo and elk, though they weren't as plentiful as near the Rochejhone River. We passed the spot where we left the last Ricara camp in the fall of 1804 and camped on a sandbar on the northeast side, having only traveled 8 miles. The wind blew hard all day, causing the waves to rise high and splash into the small canoes, which required one person to constantly bail out water. The plains are starting to change; the grass is turning yellow. I notice a significant change in the current and appearance of this part of the Missouri River. In places where there were sandbars in the fall of 1804, the main current now flows, and where the current used to flow is now a sandbar. Sandbars that were once bare are now covered with willows several feet high. The entrances of some rivers and creeks have shifted due to the mud that has been washed into them, creating a layer of mud over some areas of the bottom that's about 8 inches thick.
[Clark, August 21, 1806]
Thursday 21st August 1806 Musquetors very troublesom in the early part of last night and again this morning I directed Sergt. Ordway to proceed on to where there was Some ash and get enough for two ores which were wanting. Men all put their arms in perfect order and we Set out at 5 a.m. over took Sergt. ordway with wood for oars &c. at 8 A.M. Met three french men Comeing up, they proved to be three men from the Ricaras two of them Reevea & Greinyea wintered with us at the mandans in 1804 we Came too, those men informed us that they were on their way to the Mandans, and intended to go down to the Illinois this fall. one of them quit a young lad requested a passage down to the Illinois, we concented and he got into a Canoe to an Ore. Those men informd us that 700 Seeoux had passed the Ricaras on their way to war with the Mandans & Menitarras and that their encampment where the Squaws and Children wer, was Some place near the Big Bend of this river below. no ricaras had accompanied them but were all at home, they also informed us that no trader had arived at the Ricaras this Season, and that they were informed that the Pania or Ricara Chief who went to the United States last Spring was a year, died on his return at Smoe place near the Sieoux river &c. those men had nether powder nor lead we gave them a horn of powder and Some balls and after a delay of an hour we parted from the 2 men Reevey & Grienway and proceeded on. the wind rose and bley from the N. W. at half past 11 a.m. we arived in view of the upper Ricara villages, a Great number of womin Collecting wood on the banks, we Saluted the village with four guns and they returned the Salute by fireing Several guns in the village, I observed Several very white Lodges on the hill above the Town which the ricaras from the Shore informed me were Chyennes who had just arived-. we landed opposit to the 2d Villages and were met by the most of the men women and children of each village as also the Chyennes they all appeared anxious to take us by the hand and much rejoiced to See us return. I Steped on Shore and was Saluted by the two great Chiefs, whome we had made or given Medals to as we assend this river in 1804, and also Saluted by a great number both of Ricaras & Chyennes, as they appeared anxious to here what we had done &c. as well as to here Something about the Mandans & Minetarras. I Set my self down on the Side of the Bank and the Chiefs & brave men of the Ricaras & Chyennes formed a Cercle around me. after takeing a Smoke of Mandan tobacco which the Big white Chief who was Seated on my left hand furnished, I informed them as I had before informed the Mandans & Menitarras, where we had been what we had done and Said to the different nations in there favour and envited Some of their Chiefs to accompany us down and See their great father and receve from his own mouth his good Councils and from his own hands his bountifull gifts &c. telling pretty much the Same which I had told the mandans and menitarras. told them not to be afraid of any nation below that none would hurt them &c. a man of about 32 years of age was intreduced to me as 1st Chief of the nation this man they Call the grey eyes or ____ he was absent from the Nation at the time we passed up, the man whome we had acknowledged as the principal chief informed me that the Grey eyes was a greater Chief than himself and that he had given up all his pretentions with the Flag and Medal to the Grey eyes—The principal chief of the Chyenne's was then introduced he is a Stout jolley fellow of about 35 years of age whome the Ricaras Call the Grey Eyes I also told the ricaras that I was very Sorrey to here that they were not on friendly terms with their neighbours the Mandans & Menetarras, and had not listened to what we had Said to them but had Suffered their young men to join the Sieoux who had killed 8 Mandans &c. that their young men had Stolen the horses of the Minetarras, in retaliation for those enjories the Mandans & Menetarras had Sent out a war party and killed 2 ricaras. how could they expect other nations would be at peace with them when they themselves would not listen to what their great father had told them. I further informed them that the Mandans & Menetaras had opened their ears to what we had Said to them but had Staid at home untill they were Struk that they were Still disposed to be friendly and on good terms with the ricaras, they then Saw the great Chief of the Mandans by my Side who was on his way to see his great father, and was derected by his nation & the Menetaras & Maharhas, to Smoke in the pipe of peace with you and to tell you not to be afraid to go to their towns, or take the Birds in the plains that their ears were open to our Councils and no harm Should be done to a Ricara. The Chief will Speak presently The Grey eyes Chief of the ricaras made a very animated Speach in which he mentioned his williness of following the councels which we had given them that they had Some bad young men who would not listen to the Councels but would join the Seioux, those men they had discarded and drove out of their villages, that the Seioux were the Cause of their Missunderstanding &c. that they were a bad peoples. that they had killed Several of the Ricaras Since I Saw them. That Several of the chiefs wished to accompany us down to See their great father, but wished to see the Chief who went down last Sumer return first, he expressed Some apprehention as to the Safty of that Chiefs in passing the Sieoux. that the Ricaras had every wish to be friendly with the Mandans &c. that every mandan &c. who chose to visit the ricares should be Safe that he Should Continue with his nation and See that they followed the Council which we had given them &c.—The Sun being very hot the Chyenne Chief envited us to his Lodge which was pitched in the plain at no great distance from the River. I accepted the invitation and accompanied him to his lodge which was new and much larger than any which I have Seen it was made of 20 dressed Buffalow Skins in the Same form of the Sceoux and lodges of other nations of this quarter. about this lodges was 20 others Several of them of nearly the Same Size. I enquired for the ballance of the nation and was informed that they were near at hand and would arive on tomorrow and when all together amounted to 120 Lodges after Smokeing I gave a medal of the Small size to the Chyenne Chief &c. which appeared to alarm him, he had a robe and a fleece of fat Buffalow meat brought and gave me with the meadel back and informed me that he knew that the white people were all medecine and that he was afraid of the midal or any thing that white people gave to them. I had previously explained the cause of my gveing him the medal & flag, and again told him the use of the medal and the caus of my giveing it to him, and again put it about his neck delivering him up his preasent of a roab & meat, informing him that this was the medecene which his Great father directed me to deliver to all the great Chiefs who listened to his word and followed his councils, that he had done So and I should leave the medal with him as a token of his cincerity &c. he doubled the quantity of meat, and received the medal
Thursday, August 21, 1806. Mosquitoes were very bothersome last night and again this morning. I instructed Sgt. Ordway to go to the area where there were some ash trees and gather enough for two oars we needed. The men had their arms ready, and we set out at 5 a.m. We caught up with Sgt. Ordway, who had wood for the oars, at 8 a.m. We met three French men coming toward us; they turned out to be three individuals from the Ricaras, two of whom, Reevea and Greinyea, had spent the winter with us at the Mandans in 1804. They told us they were heading to the Mandans and planned to travel down to Illinois this fall. One young man asked for a ride to Illinois, and we agreed, so he got into a canoe with an oar. These men informed us that 700 Sioux had passed the Ricaras on their way to war with the Mandans and Minetarras, and that their encampment, where the women and children were, was somewhere near the Big Bend of this river below. No Ricaras had accompanied them; they were all at home. They also told us that no traders had arrived at the Ricaras this season and informed us that the Pania or Ricara chief who went to the United States last spring had died on the way back near the Sioux River. These men had neither powder nor lead; we gave them a horn of powder and some bullets, and after an hour's delay, we parted from Reevea and Greinyea and continued on. The wind picked up from the northwest, and at 11:30 a.m., we came into view of the upper Ricara villages, where many women were gathering wood on the banks. We saluted the village with four shots, and they returned the salute by firing several shots in the village. I noticed several very white lodges on the hill above the town, which the Ricaras from the shore informed me were Cheyennes who had just arrived. We landed across from the second village and were greeted by most of the men, women, and children from each village, as well as the Cheyennes. They all seemed eager to shake our hands and were very happy to see us return. I stepped ashore and was greeted by the two main chiefs whom we had honored with medals when we ascended this river in 1804, along with a large number of Ricaras and Cheyennes, all eager to hear what we had done and also to learn about the Mandans and Minetarras. I sat down on the bank, and the chiefs and brave men of the Ricaras and Cheyennes formed a circle around me. After enjoying some tobacco from the Mandans that the Big White Chief, sitting on my left, provided, I informed them, as I had previously told the Mandans and Minetarras, about our travels, what we had accomplished, and the messages we had delivered on their behalf. I invited some of their chiefs to accompany us down to see their great father and receive his advice and generous gifts directly from him. I relayed pretty much the same things I had told the Mandans and Minetarras, advising them not to fear any nations downstream, assuring them that none would harm them. A man around 32 years old was introduced to me as the first chief of the nation. They called him the Grey Eyes. He had been absent from the nation when we passed upstream. The man we had recognized as the principal chief informed me that the Grey Eyes was a greater chief than himself and that he had given up all his claims, with the flag and medal, to the Grey Eyes. The principal chief of the Cheyennes was also introduced; he was a sturdy, jolly fellow about 35 years old, whom the Ricaras called the Grey Eyes. I told the Ricaras that I was very sorry to hear that they were not on good terms with their neighbors, the Mandans and Minetarras, and that they had not heeded our advice, allowing their young men to side with the Sioux, who had killed eight Mandans. Their young men had stolen horses from the Minetarras, prompting the Mandans and Minetarras to send out a war party that killed two Ricaras. How could they expect other nations to be at peace with them if they themselves would not listen to their great father's words? I informed them that the Mandans and Minetarras had paid attention to what we had said but had stayed home until they were struck. They were still inclined to be friendly and on good terms with the Ricaras. They then saw the great chief of the Mandans beside me, who was on his way to see his great father, directed by his nation and the Menetarras and Maharhas to smoke the pipe of peace with them and to reassure them not to be afraid to visit their towns or take the birds in the plains, that their ears were open to our advice, and no harm should come to a Ricara. The chief would speak shortly. The Grey Eyes, chief of the Ricaras, delivered a very animated speech in which he expressed his willingness to follow the advice we had given them. He mentioned that there were some bad young men among them who would not heed the counsel and who would join the Sioux. They had discarded those men and driven them out of their villages, stating that the Sioux were the cause of their misunderstandings and were bad people who had killed several Ricaras since I last saw them. Several chiefs wished to accompany us down to see their great father but wanted to wait for the chief who went down last summer to return first. He expressed some concern for that chief's safety in passing the Sioux. The Ricaras had a strong desire to be friendly with the Mandans and that any Mandan who chose to visit the Ricaras would be safe, stating that he would continue with his nation and ensure they followed the advice we had given them. The sun was very hot, and the Cheyenne chief invited us to his lodge, which was set up in the plains not far from the river. I accepted the invitation and accompanied him to his lodge, which was new and much larger than any I had seen. It was made of 20 dressed buffalo hides, similar in style to the Sioux and lodges from other nations in this area. Around this lodge were about 20 others, several of them nearly the same size. I inquired about the rest of the nation and was told they were nearby and would arrive tomorrow, and when all were together, there would be 120 lodges. After smoking, I gave a small-sized medal to the Cheyenne chief, which seemed to startle him. He had a robe and some buffalo meat brought to me, along with the medal, and explained that he knew the white people were all medicine men and that he was afraid of the medal or anything given to them by white people. I had previously explained the reason for giving him the medal and flag, and again clarified the purpose of the medal and why I was giving it to him. I placed it around his neck again, returning his gifts of a robe and meat, explaining that this was the medicine his Great Father directed me to deliver to all great chiefs who listened to his words and followed his advice. Since he had done so, I would leave the medal with him as a token of his sincerity. He doubled the amount of meat and accepted the medal.
The Big White chief of the Mandans Spoke at some length explainin the Cause of the misunderstanding between his nation and the ricaras, informing them of his wish to be on the most freindly termes &c. the Chyennes accused both nations of being in folt. I told to them all that if they eve wished to be hapy that they must Shake off all intimecy with the Seioux and unite themselves in a Strong allience and attend to what we had told them &c. which they promesed all to do and we Smoked and parted on the best terms, the Mandan Chief was Saluted by Several Chiefs and brave men on his way with me to the river—I had requested the ricaras & Chyennes to inform me as Soon as possible of their intentions of going down with us to See their great father or not. in the evening the Great Chief requested that I would walk to his house which I did, he gave me about 2 quarts of Tobacco, 2 beaver Skins and a trencher of boiled Corn & beans to eat (as it is the Custom of all the Nations on the Missouri to give Something to every white man who enters their lodge Something to eat) this Chief informed me that none of his Chiefs wished to go down with us they all wished to See the cheif who went down return first, that the Chyennes were a wild people and were afraid to go. that they Should all listen to what I had Said. I gave him Some ribon to Suspend his Medal to and a Shell which the Snake indians gave me for which he was very much pleased.
The Big White chief of the Mandans spoke at length, explaining the misunderstanding between his people and the Ricaras, expressing his desire to be on friendly terms, etc. The Cheyennes accused both nations of being at fault. I told them that if they ever wanted to be happy, they needed to cut ties with the Sioux, unite in a strong alliance, and listen to what we had told them, etc. They all promised to do this, and we smoked and parted on great terms. The Mandan chief was greeted by several chiefs and brave men as we headed to the river together. I had asked the Ricaras and Cheyennes to let me know as soon as possible whether they intended to join us in visiting their great father or not. In the evening, the great chief asked me to walk to his house, which I did. He gave me about two quarts of tobacco, two beaver skins, and a platter of boiled corn and beans to eat (as it’s customary for all the nations on the Missouri to offer something to eat to every white man who enters their lodge). This chief informed me that none of his chiefs wanted to go with us; they all wanted to see the chief who had gone down return first, and that the Cheyennes were a wild people and were afraid to go. He said they would all listen to what I had said. I gave him some ribbon to hang his medal from and a shell that the Snake Indians had given me, which he was very pleased with.
The interpreter informed me that the Cheifs of those villages had no intention of going down. one the Cheifs of the Village on the island talkd. of going down. I returned to the boat where I found the principal Chief of the lower vilege who had Cut part of his hair and disfigured himself in Such a manner that I did not know him, he informed me the Sieux had killed his nephew and that Was in tears for him &c. we deturmind to proceed down to the Island and accordingly took the chief on board and proceeded on down to the isd village at which place we arived a little before dark and were met as before by nearly every individual of the Village, we Saluted them and landed imediately opposit the town. The one arm 2d Cheif of this village whome we had expected to accompany us down Spoke to the mandan Cheif in a loud and thretening tone which Caused me to be Some what alarmed for the Safty of that Cheif, I inform the Ricaras of this village that the Mandans had opened their ears to and fold. our Councils, that this Cheif was on his way to see their Great Father the P. of U S. and was under our protection that if any enjorey was done to him by any nation that we Should all die to a man. I told the Ricaras that they had told us lies, they promised to be at peace with the mandans & Menetarras. that our back was Scrcely turned before they went to war & Killd. them and Stole their horses &c—The Cheif then envited me & the Mandan Chief to his house to talk there. I accompanied him, after takeing a very Serimonious Smoke the 2d Cheif informd. me that he had opened his ears to what we had Said to him at the time we gave him the medal that he had not been to war against any Natn. Since, that once been to See the mandans and they were going to kill him, they had not killed the Mandans, it was the Seeoux who killed them and not the ricaras, he Said that the Mandan Cheif was as Safe as if he was in his own Vilg that he had opened his ears and Could here as well as the mandans. I then informd them what I had told the upper villages and we all become perfectly reconsiled all to each other and Smoked in the most perfect harmony we had invatations to go into their lodges and eate. I at length went to the grand Chiefs Lodge by his particelar invitation, the Mandan Chief Stuck close to me the Chief had prepd. a Supper of boiled young Corn, beens & quashes of which he gave me in Wooden bowls. he also gave me near 2 quarts of the Tobacco Seed, & informed me he had always had his ears open to what we had Said, that he was well convinced that the Seeoux was the caus of all the trouble between the Mandans & them the Ricars had Stolen horses from the Mandan which had been returned all except one which could not be got, this mischief was done by Some young men who was bad. a long Conversation of explanations took place between the Ricara & mandan Chiefs which appeared to be Satisfactory on both Sides. the Chief gave a pipe with great form and every thing appeared to be made up. I returned to the river & went to bead. the Indians contd on board. made 22 miles today only.
The interpreter told me that the chiefs of those villages had no plans to go down. One of the chiefs from the island spoke about going down. I went back to the boat where I found the main chief of the lower village, who had cut part of his hair and changed his appearance so much that I didn't recognize him. He told me the Sioux had killed his nephew and that he was in tears for him, etc. We decided to proceed down to the island, so we took the chief on board and went down to the island village, where we arrived just before dark and were greeted as before by nearly everyone in the village. We saluted them and landed right across from the town. The second chief of this village, whom we expected to accompany us down, spoke to the Mandan chief in a loud and threatening tone, which made me a bit worried for the safety of that chief. I informed the Ricaras of this village that the Mandans had listened to and followed our councils, that this chief was on his way to see their Great Father, the President of the United States, and was under our protection. I told them that if any harm came to him from any nation, we would all fight to the last man. I told the Ricaras that they had lied to us, promising to be at peace with the Mandans and Menetarras, and that as soon as our backs were turned, they went to war, killed them, and stole their horses, etc. The chief then invited me and the Mandan chief to his house to talk there. I went with him, and after sharing a very ceremonious smoke, the second chief informed me that he had listened to what we had said when we gave him the medal, that he had not gone to war against any nation since then, that once he had gone to see the Mandans and they were going to kill him, but it was the Sioux who killed them, not the Ricaras. He said that the Mandan chief was as safe as if he were in his own village, that he had listened and could hear just as well as the Mandans. I then told them what I had told the upper villages, and we all became completely reconciled with each other and smoked in perfect harmony. We were invited to go into their lodges and eat. Eventually, I went to the grand chief's lodge at his special invitation, and the Mandan chief stayed close to me. The chief had prepared
[Clark, August 22, 1806]
Friday 22nd August 1806. rained all the last night every person and all our bedding wet, the Morning cloudy, at 8 A M. I was requested to go to the Chiefs, I walkd up and he informed me that he Should not go down but would Stay and take Care of the village and prevent the young men from doing rong and Spoke much to the Same porpt of the Grey Eyes, the 2d Chief Spoke to the Same and all they Said was only a repitition of what they had Said before. the Chief gave me some Soft Corn and the 2d Chief Some Tobacco Seed—the Interpreter Garrow informed me that he had been Speeking to the Chiefs & warriers this morning and assured me that they had no intention of going down untill the return of the Cheif who went down last Spring was a year. I told the Cheifs to attend to what we had Said to them, that in a Short time they would find our words tru and Councils good. they promised to attend Strictly to what had been Said to them, and observed that they must trade with the Sieoux one more time to get guns and powder; that they had no guns or powder and had more horses than they had use for, after they got guns and powder that they would never again have any thing to do with them &c. &c. I returned the Canoes & derected the men to prepare to Set out. Some Chyennes from two Lodges on the Main S E. Shore Came and Smoked with me and at 11 A. M we Set out haveing parted with those people who appeared to be Sorry to part with us. at this nation we found a french man by the name of Rokey who was one of our Engagees as high as the Mandans this man had Spend all his wages, and requested to return with uswe agreed to give him a passage down. I directed 2 guns to be fired. we proceeded on passed the Marapa and the We ter hoo Rivers, and landed to dry our bedding and robes &c which were all wet. here we delayed untill 6 P M. and dryed our things which were much Spoiled.
Friday, August 22, 1806. It rained all last night, and everyone and all our bedding got wet. The morning was cloudy. At 8 AM, I was asked to go to the Chiefs. I walked up, and he told me that he wouldn’t go down but would stay to take care of the village and prevent the young men from doing wrong. He spoke a lot about the same thing as the Grey Eyes. The second Chief echoed the same sentiments, and all they said was just a repeat of what they had mentioned before. The Chief gave me some soft corn, and the second Chief gave me some tobacco seeds. The interpreter, Garrow, informed me that he had been speaking to the Chiefs and warriors this morning and assured me that they had no intention of going down until the return of the Chief who went down last spring, which would be in a year. I told the Chiefs to pay attention to what we had said, that they would soon find our words true and our council good. They promised to strictly observe what we had discussed and noted that they needed to trade with the Sioux one more time to get guns and powder, mentioning they had no guns or powder and had more horses than they could use. After they got guns and powder, they said they would never trade with them again, etc., etc. I returned the canoes and directed the men to prepare to set out. Some Cheyennes from two lodges on the main southeast shore came and smoked with me, and at 11 AM we set out, having parted with those people who seemed sorry to say goodbye. In this nation, we found a Frenchman named Rokey who had been one of our engaged men as high up as the Mandans. This man had spent all his wages and requested to return with us, and we agreed to give him a ride down. I directed two guns to be fired. We proceeded on, passed the Marapa and the We ter hoo Rivers, and stopped to dry our bedding and robes, which were all wet. We delayed here until 6 PM and dried our things, which had been badly spoiled.
I derected 5 of the hunters to proceed on to Grouse Island a fiew miles below and hunt on that island untill we arived, we proceded on to the main N E Shore below the Island and encamped, the hunters joined us without any thing. they Saw no game on the island. we made only 17 Miles to day. below the ricaras the river widens and the Sand bars are emencely noumerous much less timber in the bottoms than above
I directed five of the hunters to go ahead to Grouse Island, a few miles down, and hunt there until we arrived. We continued to the main Northeast shore below the island and set up camp. The hunters joined us without anything; they saw no game on the island. We only covered 17 miles today. Below the Ricara territory, the river widens, and the sandbars are extremely numerous, with much less timber in the bottomlands than above.
The Chyenne's are portly Indians much the complections of the Mandans & ricaras high Cheeks, Streight limbed & high noses the men are large, their dress in Sumner is Simpelly a roab of a light buffalow Skin with or without the hair and a Breach clout & mockerson Some ware leagins and mockersons, their ornaments are but fiew and those are composed principally of Such articles as they precure from other indians Such as blue beeds, Shell, red paint rings of brass broaches &c. they also ware Bears Claws about their necks, Strips of otter Skin (which they as well as the ricaras are excessively fond of) around their neck falling back behind. their ears are cut at the lower part, but fiew of them were ornements in them, their hair is generally Cut in the forehead above their eyes and Small ornimented plats in front of each Sholder the remainder of the hair is either twisted in with horse or buffalow hair divided into two plats over the Sholder or what is most common flow's back, Their women are homely, corse feetured wide mouthes they ware Simpially a leathe habit made in a plain form of two pieces of equal length and equal weadth, which is sewen together with Sinues from the tail to about half way from the hip to the arm, a String fastens the 2 pieces together over the Sholders leaveng a flap or lapells which fall over near half way ther body both before and behind. those dresses usially fall as low as mid leg, they are frequently ornemented with beeds and Shells & Elk tuskes of which all Indians are very fond of. those dresses are als frequently Printed in various regular figures with hot sticks which are rubed on the leather with Such velosity as to nearly burn it this is very handsom. they were their hair flowing and are excessively fond of ornamenting their ears with blue beeds—this nation peacbly disposed they may be estimated at from 350 to 400 men inhabetig from 130 to 150 Lodges, they are rich in horses & Dogs, the dogs Carry a great preportion of their light baggage. they Confess to be at war with no nation except the Sieoux with whome they have ever since their remembranc been on a difencive war, with the Bands of Sieoux. as I was about to leave the Cheifs of the Chyennes lodge he requested me to Send Some traders to them, that their country was full of beaver and they would then be encouraged to Kill beaver, but now they had no use for them as they could get nothing for their skins and did not know well, how to catch beaver. if the white people would come amongst them they would become acquainted and the white people would learn them how to take the beaver-. I promised the Nation that I would inform their Great father the President of the U States, and he would have them Supplied with goods, and mentioned in what manner they would be Supplied &c. &c.
The Cheyenne are stocky Native Americans, somewhat similar in complexion to the Mandans and Ricara, with high cheekbones and straight limbs. The men are large, and their summer clothing typically consists of a simple robe made from light buffalo skin, with or without the hair, along with a breechcloth and moccasins. Some wear leggings and moccasins, and their ornaments are few, primarily made up of items obtained from other tribes, such as blue beads, shells, red paint, brass rings, brooches, and more. They also wear bear claws around their necks and strips of otter skin, which they, like the Ricara, are very fond of, draping down behind them. Their ears have the lower part cut, but few of them wear ornaments. Their hair is usually cut at the forehead, above the eyes, with small ornamented braids in front of each shoulder. The rest of the hair is either twisted with horse or buffalo hair, divided into two braids over the shoulder, or, most commonly, left flowing back. The women are plain-looking with rough features and wide mouths. They wear a simple leather outfit made of two equal-length and equal-width pieces, sewn together with sinews from the tail, extending from about halfway between the hip and the arm. A string fastens the two pieces over the shoulders, leaving flaps or lapels that fall over about half of their bodies, both front and back. These dresses typically reach down to mid-calf and are often adorned with beads, shells, and elk tusks, all of which the Native Americans admire. The dresses are also sometimes decorated with various patterns burned into the leather using hot sticks rubbed on with enough force to nearly scorch it, which looks very nice. They wear their hair down and are very fond of decorating their ears with blue beads. This nation is peaceful and is estimated to have between 350 and 400 men inhabiting 130 to 150 lodges. They are wealthy in horses and dogs, which carry a large portion of their light baggage. They acknowledge being at war with no nation except the Sioux, with whom they have been in a defensive war for as long as they can remember. As I was about to leave the Cheyenne chief's lodge, he asked me to send some traders to them, mentioning that their land was full of beavers, and they would be encouraged to hunt them if they had a market for the skins. Currently, they have no use for the beavers since they cannot get anything for their skins and don't know how to catch them. If white people came among them, they would learn how to trap beavers. I promised the nation that I would inform their great father, the President of the United States, and that he would ensure they received supplies, detailing how that would happen, etc.
I am happy to have it in my power to Say that my worthy friend Capt Lewis is recovering fast, he walked a little to day for the first time. I have discontinud the tent in the hole the ball came out
I’m glad to say that my good friend Capt Lewis is recovering quickly; he walked a little today for the first time. I’ve taken down the tent in the spot where the bullet came out.
I have before mentioned that the Mandans Maharhas Menetarras & Ricarras, keep their horses in the Lodge with themselves at night.
I have mentioned before that the Mandans, Maharhas, Menetarras, and Ricarras keep their horses in the lodge with them at night.
[Clark, August 23, 1806]
Saturday 23rd August 1806 We Set out very early, the wind rose & became very hard, we passed the Sar-war-kar-na-har river at 10 A. M and at half past eleven the wind became So high and the water So rough that we were obliged to put to Shore and Continue untill 3 p. M. when we had a Small Shower of rain after which the wind lay, and we proceeded on. Soon after we landed I Sent Shields & Jo. & Reubin Fields down to the next bottom of timber to hunt untill our arival. we proceeded on Slowly and landed in the bottom. the hunters had killed three Elk and 3 Deer the deer were pore and Elk not fat had them fleece & brought in. the Musqueters large and very troublesom. at 4 P. M a Cloud from the N W with a violent rain for about half an hour after the rain we again proceeded on. I observe great quantities of Grapes and Choke Cheries, also a Speces of Currunt which I had never before observed the leas is larger than those above, the Currt. black and very inferior to either the yellow, red, or perple—at dark we landed on a Small Sand bar under a Bluff on the S W. Side and encamped, this Situation was one which I had Chosen to avoid the Musquetors, they were not very troublesom after we landed. we Came only 40 Miles to daye
Saturday, August 23, 1806 We set out very early. The wind picked up and became quite strong. We crossed the Sar-war-kar-na-har River at 10 A.M., and by 11:30, the wind was so high and the water so rough that we had to dock and wait until 3 P.M. After a brief shower of rain, the wind calmed down, and we continued on. Soon after we landed, I sent Shields, Jo, and Reubin Fields down to the next stand of timber to hunt until we arrived. We moved on slowly and landed in the bottom. The hunters had killed three elk and three deer. The deer were lean, and the elk weren't fat; they had their skin removed and were brought in. The mosquitoes were large and very bothersome. At 4 P.M., a cloud came in from the northwest, bringing a heavy rain for about half an hour. After the rain, we continued on. I noticed a lot of grapes and chokecherries, as well as a type of currant I had never seen before; the leaves were larger than others I had seen. The currants were black and much inferior to the yellow, red, or purple varieties. By nightfall, we landed on a small sandbar under a bluff on the southwest side and set up camp. This location was chosen to avoid the mosquitoes, and they weren’t too bothersome after we landed. We covered only 40 miles today.
My Frend Capt Lewis is recoverig fast the hole in his thy where the Ball passed out is Closed and appears to be nearly well. the one where the ball entered discharges very well-.
My friend Captain Lewis is recovering quickly. The hole in his thigh where the bullet came out is closed and seems to be almost healed. The one where the bullet entered is draining very well.
[Clark, August 24, 1806]
Sunday 24th August 1806 a fair morning we Set out as usial about Sunrise and proceeded on untill 2 P M when the wind blew So hard from the N. W. that we could not proceed came too on the S W. Side where we continued untill 5 P.M. when the wind lay a little and we again proceeded on. at 8 a M. we passed La-hoo-catts Island, opposit the lower point of this Island on the S. W. Side near the top of the Bluff I observed a Stratea of White stone I landed and examined it found it to be a Soft White Stone containing very fine grit, when expd. to the Sun and become Dry this Stone will Crumble the Clay of this bluff to the above and below is remarkably Black. at half past 9 a.m. passed Good hope Island and at 11 a. m passed Caution Island a Short distance below this Island we came too. Sent out a hunter he Saw Several deer they were very wild and he returned without haveing killed any, the deer on this pt. of the Missouri is mostly the Mule or black tail Species. we Saw only 6 buffalow to day the Sieoux have been laterly encamped on the river and have Secured the most of the game opp. a large trail has passed on a derection to the enterance of the Chyenne this probably is the trail of a war party. at 5 P.M. we proceeded on a fiew miles and Encampd. on the gouge of the lookout bend of 20 miles around and 3/4 through, a little above an old tradeing house and 4 miles above of our outward bound encampment of the 1st of October 1804, haveing made 43 miles to day.
Sunday, August 24, 1806, was a clear morning as we set out as usual around sunrise and continued on until 2 PM when the wind blew so strongly from the northwest that we couldn’t go any further. We stopped on the southwest side and stayed there until 5 PM when the wind eased a bit, and we continued on again. At 8 AM, we passed La-hoo-catts Island. Across from the lower point of this island, on the southwest side near the top of the bluff, I noticed a layer of white stone. I landed to investigate and found it to be a soft white stone with very fine grit. When exposed to the sun and dried, this stone crumbles the clay of this bluff, which is remarkably black both above and below it. At 9:30 AM, we passed Good Hope Island, and at 11 AM, we passed Caution Island. Shortly after this island, we stopped. I sent out a hunter who saw several deer; they were very skittish, and he returned without having shot any. The deer in this part of the Missouri are mostly of the mule or black-tailed species. We saw only six buffalo today; the Sioux have been camped along the river recently and have taken most of the game. A large trail has passed in the direction of the entrance to the Cheyenne, which is probably the trail of a war party. At 5 PM, we moved a few miles and camped in the gorge of the Lookout Bend, which is 20 miles around and three-quarters of the way through, a little above an old trading house and four miles above our camp site from October 1, 1804, having covered 43 miles today.
[Clark, August 25, 1806]
Monday 25th August 1806 a cool clear morning a Stiff breeze ahead we Set out at the usial hour and proceeded on very well. I derected Shields Collins Shannon and the two fieldses to proceed on in the two small Canoes to the Ponia Island and hunt on that Island untill we came on, they Set out before day light The Skirt of timber in the bend above the Chyenne is not very Considerable the timber is Scattered from 4 to 16 miles on the S W Side of the river, and the thickest part is at the distance of 6 & 10 miles from the Chyenne, a narrow bottom of Small Cotton trees is also on the N E pt. at the distance of from 4 to 41/2 miles above the Chyenne imediately at the enterance of that river I observe but fiew large trees Some Small Growth and willows on the lower Side bottom on the Missouri about 1/2 a mile and extends up the Chyen 1 mile about a quarter of a mile above is a 2d bottom of Cotton timber, in the point above the Chyenne there is a considerable bottom of about 2 miles on that river and a large timbered bottom a Short distance above. at 8 A.M. we Came to at the mouth of the Chyenne to delay untill 12 to make a meridian observation and derected 3 hunters to proced up this river and hunt its bottoms untill twelve at which hou we Shall proceed on. the hunters returned with 2 deer the Chyenne discharges but little water which is much the colour of the missouri tho not So muddy I observe a very eligable Situation on the bank of the Chyenne on it's lower Side about 100 paces from it's enterance. this Situation is above the high floods and has a perfect Command of each river we obtained a Meridian altitude with the Sextt. and artificial Horizon 112° 50' 00"- after which we proceeded on passed the pania Island and came up with Shields and Collins they had killed two deer only at 3 P M we passed the place where we Saw the last encampement of Troubleson Tetons below the old ponia village on the S W Side. a very large timbered bottom on the N. E. Side imedialely below the Pania Island. Latd. of Chyenne is ____ North. at Sunset we landed about the Center of a large bottom on the N E Side a little below the enterance of No timber Creek and below our Encampment of 29th of Septr. 1804. dreyer killed a deer after we encamped. a little above our encampmt. the ricaras had formerly a large village on each Side which was destroyed by the Seioux. there is the remains of 5 other villages on the S W. Side below the Chyenne river and one on Le ho catts Isld. all those villages have been broken up by the Seioux. This day proved a fine Still day and the men played their oars and we made 48 miles to day. The 2 fields and Shannon did not join this evening which caused me to encamp earlier than usial for them. we Saw no game on the plains today. the Tetons have been on the river not long Since
Monday, August 25, 1806, was a cool, clear morning with a strong breeze against us. We set out at our usual time and made good progress. I instructed Shields, Collins, Shannon, and the two Fields brothers to continue on in the two small canoes to Ponia Island and hunt there until we caught up with them. They left before dawn. The tree line in the bend above the Cheyenne isn’t very dense; the trees are scattered from 4 to 16 miles on the southwest side of the river, with the thickest part about 6 to 10 miles from the Cheyenne. There’s also a narrow stretch of small cottonwoods on the northeast side, about 4 to 4.5 miles above the Cheyenne, right at the river’s entrance. I noticed very few large trees, just some small growth and willows on the lower bottom of the Missouri about half a mile wide, extending up the Cheyenne by a mile. A quarter of a mile above is a second bottom of cottonwoods. In the area above the Cheyenne, there’s a significant bottom about 2 miles long along that river and a large timbered bottom a short distance above. At 8 A.M., we arrived at the mouth of the Cheyenne and stopped to wait until noon to take a meridian observation. I directed three hunters to head up this river and hunt in its bottoms until noon, at which point we would continue on. The hunters returned with two deer. The Cheyenne flows very little water and is similar in color to the Missouri, though not as muddy. I noted an excellent spot on the bank of the Cheyenne on its lower side, about 100 paces from its entrance. This spot is above the high floods and provides a clear view of both rivers. We took a meridian altitude using the sextant and artificial horizon, which was 112° 50' 00". After that, we continued past Ponia Island and caught up with Shields and Collins, who had only managed to kill two deer. At 3 P.M., we passed the site of the last campsite of the Troublesome Tetons, just below the old Ponia village on the southwest side, where there’s a large timbered bottom on the northeast side, immediately below Ponia Island. The latitude of the Cheyenne is ____ North. At sunset, we landed in the center of a large bottom on the northeast side, just below the entrance of No Timber Creek and below our campsite from September 29, 1804. Dreyer killed a deer after we set up camp. A little above our campsite, the Ricaras used to have a large village on each side, which was destroyed by the Sioux. There are remains of five other villages on the southwest side below the Cheyenne River, and one on Le Hocatt's Island. All these villages have been abandoned due to the Sioux. This day was calm and pleasant, and the men handled their paddles well, allowing us to cover 48 miles today. The two Fields brothers and Shannon didn’t join us this evening, prompting me to camp earlier than usual for them. We didn’t see any game on the plains today. The Tetons have been on the river not long ago.
[Clark, August 26, 1806]
Tuesday 26th of August 1806 a heavy dew this morning the hunters or Shannon & the 2 fields came up at Sunrise and we Set out, they had killed only 2 Small deer one of which they had eat at 8 passed the place the Tetons were encamped at the time they attempted to Stop us in Septr. 1804, and at 9 A.M. passed the enterance of Teton River. Saw Several black tail or Mule deer and Sent out to kill them but they were wild and the hunters Could not get a Shot at either of them. a fiew miles below the Teton river I observed a buffalow Skin Canoe lying on the S Shore and a Short distance lower a raft which induces me to Suspect that the Tetons are not on the Missouri at the big bend as we were informed by the Ricaras, but up the Teton river. at Meridn. we halted on the N E. Side opposit a handsom leavel plain in which there is great quantities of plumbs which are not yet ripe. we passed the enteranc of Smoke Creek and landed and Continued two hours to Stop a leak in the perogue and fix the Stearing oare, Saw great quantities of Grapes, they are black tho not thurerly ripe. at 5 P M. we landed a Louisells fort on Ceder Island, this fort is entire and every part appears to be in the Same state it was when we passed it in Septr. 1804. I observed the appearance of 3 fires in the houses which appeared to have been made 10 or 12 days past. we proceeded on about 10 miles lower and encamped on the S. W. Side opposit our outward bound encampment of the 21st of Septr. 1804, a fiew miles above Tylors River. we had a Stiff breeze from the S. E. which continued to blow the greater part of the night dry and pleasent. as we were now in the Country where we were informed the Sceoux were assembled we were much on our guard deturmined to put up with no insults from those bands of Seioux, all the arms &. in perfect order. Capt. L. is Still on the mending hand he walks a little. I have discontinued the tent in the hole where the ball entered, agreeable to his request. he tells me that he is fully Convinced that the wound is sufficiently heeled for the tents to be discontinued. we made 60 miles to day with the wind ahead greater part of the day-
Tuesday, August 26, 1806. There was a heavy dew this morning. The hunters, Shannon and the two fields, got up at sunrise and we set out. They had only killed two small deer, one of which they ate at 8 AM. We passed the place where the Tetons camped when they tried to stop us in September 1804. At 9 AM, we passed the entrance of the Teton River. We saw several black-tailed or mule deer and sent the hunters out to try to catch them, but they were too wild and the hunters couldn’t get a shot. A few miles below the Teton River, I noticed a buffalo skin canoe on the south shore and a short distance downriver, a raft, which makes me suspect the Tetons are not at the Missouri's big bend as the Ricaras told us, but up the Teton River. At Meridian, we stopped on the northeast side by a beautiful flat plain filled with a lot of plums that aren’t ripe yet. We passed the entrance of Smoke Creek, landed, and spent two hours fixing a leak in the pirogue and repairing the steering oar. We saw a lot of grapes; they are black, but not fully ripe. At 5 PM, we landed at Louisell's Fort on Cedar Island. This fort is intact, and everything seems to be in the same condition it was when we passed here in September 1804. I noticed evidence of three fires in the buildings that seemed to have been made about 10 or 12 days ago. We continued about 10 miles downriver and camped on the southwest side opposite our outward bound camp from September 21, 1804, a few miles above Taylor's River. We had a stiff breeze coming from the southeast that lasted most of the night, which was dry and pleasant. Since we were now in the area where we were told the Sioux were gathered, we stayed on high alert and were determined not to tolerate any insults from those Sioux bands. All the arms were in perfect condition. Captain L. is still recovering; he can walk a little now. I have removed the tent from the hole where the bullet entered, as he requested. He tells me he is convinced the wound has healed enough to do without the tent. We covered 60 miles today, with the wind against us for most of the day.
[Clark, August 27, 1806]
Wednesday 27th Augt. 1806 Set out before Sunrise a Stiff breeze a head from the East proceeded to the enterance of Tylors river on the S W Side and landed on a Sand bar and Sent out the hunters to kill Some meat, our Stock of meat being now exousted and this the most favourable place to precure a fresh Supply, the hunters returned in 3 hours without haveing killed any thing. they informed me that the bottoms were entirely beaten up and the grass laid flat by the emence number of Buffalow which had been here a Short time past. the deer had left the bottom. they Saw several Buffalow Bulls which they did not think proper to kill as they were unfit for use. here we discover the first Signs of the wild turkey. at 1 P M we halted in the big bend and killed a fat buck elk near the river, which was very timely as our meat was entirely exhosted. at 2 P. M we again proceeded on down saw Several Buffalow Bulls on each Side of the river also Some deer of the Common kind at 6 P.M. we herd the bellowing of the Buffalow Bulls in the lower Isld. of the Big bend below the Gouge which induced a belief that there was Some fat Cows, 5 men went out from the 2 Small Canoes which was a little a head, and killed two Cows one Bull and a Calf nether of them wer fat we droped the Perogue & Canoes to the lower part of the Island near to where the buffalow was killed and incamped haveing Come 45 Miles only to day. had the buffalow butched and brought in and divided. My friend Capt Lewis hurt himself very much by takeing a longer walk on the Sand bar in my absence at the buffalow than he had Strength to undergo, which Caused him to remain very unwell all night.
Wednesday, August 27, 1806. We set out before sunrise with a strong breeze coming from the east. We headed to the entrance of Tylor's River on the southwest side and landed on a sandbar. I sent the hunters out to get some meat since our supply was completely exhausted, and this was the best spot to find fresh provisions. The hunters returned in three hours without having killed anything. They told me that the low grounds were completely trampled and the grass flattened by the huge number of buffalo that had been there recently. The deer had left the area. They saw several buffalo bulls but decided not to kill them since they were not suitable for use. Here, we noticed the first signs of wild turkey. At 1 PM, we stopped in the big bend and killed a fat buck elk near the river, which was very timely as we were completely out of meat. At 2 PM, we moved on again and saw several buffalo bulls on both sides of the river, as well as some common deer. At 6 PM, we heard the bellowing of buffalo bulls on the lower island of the big bend below the gouge, which made us believe there were some fat cows. Five men went out from the two small canoes that were slightly ahead and killed two cows, one bull, and a calf, none of which were fat. We dropped the perogue and canoes to the lower part of the island near where the buffalo was killed and set up camp, having traveled only 45 miles today. We had the buffalo butchered and brought in, then divided the meat. My friend Captain Lewis hurt himself badly by taking a longer walk on the sandbar while I was away at the buffalo than he was capable of handling, which caused him to feel very unwell all night.
[Clark, August 28, 1806]
Thursday 28th of August 1806 Capt Lewis had a bad nights rest and is not very well this morning. we Set out early and proceded on very well, Saw a number of Buffalow bulls on the banks in different places. passd the 3 rivers of the Seioux pass at 9 A.M. a Short distance below on the S W Side Sent out Reubin & Joseph Feild to hunt for the Mule deer or the antilope neither of which we have either the Skins or Scellitens of, we detected those two men to proceed on down to the places we encamped the 16th & 17th of Septr. 1804 and which place the party had called pleasant Camp from the great abundance of Game Such as Buffalow Elk, antilopes, Blacktail or mule deer, fallow deer, common deer wolves barking Squirels, Turkies and a variety of other animals, aded to which there was a great abundance of the most delicious plumbs and grapes. this Situation which is a Short distance above the enterance of Corvus Creek we are deturmined to delay one day for the purpose of prcureing the sceletins of the Mule deer & antilope, and Some barking Squirels. a fiew miles below the place the 2 Fields were Set on Shore we Set Drewyer and Labeech on Shore with the Same directions which had been given to the 2 field's at 12 oClock we Landed on the S W. Side at the Same Spot which we had encamped on the 16th and 17th of September 1804, and formed a Camp, Sent out Serjt. Pryor, Shields, Go. Gibson, Willard and Collins to hunt in the plains up Corvus Creek for the Antilope and Mule deer Sent out Bratten and Frazier to kill the barking Squirel, and Gave directions to all of them to kill the Magpye if they Should See any of them Several of the men and the Squaws of the enterpreter Jessomme and the Mandan Chief went to Some plumb bushes in the bottom and geathered more plumbs than the party Could eate in 2 days, those blumbs are of 3 Speces, the most of them large and well flavored. our Situation is pleasent a high bottom thinly timbered and covered with low grass without misquitors. at 3 P. M Drewyer and Labeech arived, the latter haveing killd. a Deer of the Common Speceis only. in the evening late all the hunters returned without any Speces of animal we were in want of, they killed 4 Common deer and two buffalow a part of the best of the meat of those animals they brought in. we precured two of the barking Squirels only. as we Could not precere any Mule deer or antelope we concluded to Send the hunters on a head early in the morning and delay untill 10 A. M to give them time to hunt. I derected Shannon & Collins to go on the opposit Side, and Labeech and Willard to proceed down on this Side at Some distance from the river and join the party at the round Island &c. and R. Field to proceed on Slowly in the Small Canoe to that place and take in any thing which the hunters might kill. Made 32 miles to day
Thursday, August 28, 1806: Captain Lewis had a rough night and isn't feeling great this morning. We set out early and made good progress. We saw several buffalo bulls on the banks in various locations. We passed the three rivers of the Sioux at 9 a.m., a short distance downstream on the southwest side. I sent Reubin and Joseph Field out to hunt for mule deer or antelope, for which we still didn't have any skins or skeletons. We had sent those two men down to the spot where we camped on September 16th and 17th, 1804, which the group called Pleasant Camp due to the abundance of game like buffalo, elk, antelope, blacktail or mule deer, fallow deer, common deer, barking squirrels, turkeys, and various other animals, plus an abundance of delicious plums and grapes. This location, a short distance above the entrance of Corvus Creek, will be where we take a one-day delay to gather the skeletons of the mule deer and antelope, and catch some barking squirrels. A few miles below where the two Fields landed, we set Drewyer and Labeech ashore with the same instructions given to the two Fields. At noon, we landed on the southwest side at the same spot where we camped on September 16th and 17th, 1804, and set up camp. I sent out Sergeant Pryor, Shields, George Gibson, Willard, and Collins to hunt in the plains up Corvus Creek for antelope and mule deer. I dispatched Bratten and Frazier to hunt barking squirrels and instructed everyone to kill any magpies they might see. Several of the men and the wives of the interpreter Jessomme and the Mandan chief went to gather plums from bushes in the bottom, collecting more than the party could eat in two days. These plums come in three varieties, most of them large and flavorful. Our location is pleasant, a high bottom with sparse timber and low grass, free of mosquitoes. At 3 p.m., Drewyer and Labeech arrived, the latter having only killed a common deer. Later in the evening, all the hunters returned without any of the species we really wanted; they brought back four common deer and two buffalo, along with some of the best meat from these animals. We only managed to get two barking squirrels. Since we couldn't find any mule deer or antelope, we decided to send the hunters ahead early in the morning and delay until 10 a.m. to give them time to hunt. I directed Shannon and Collins to go to the opposite side, and Labeech and Willard to proceed down our side, some distance from the river, and meet the party at Round Island, while R. Field would move slowly in the small canoe to that place and pick up anything the hunters might catch. We traveled 32 miles today.
The hunters informed me that they Saw great numbers of Buffalow in the plains. I Saw Several herds of those animals on either Side to day at a distance.
The hunters told me that they saw a lot of buffalo in the plains. I saw several herds of those animals on either side today from a distance.
[Clark, August 29, 1806]
Friday 29th August 1806 a cloudy morning the hunters proceeded on agreeable to their orders of last night. I Sent out two men to the village of barking Squirels with direcitions to kill Some of them. they after 2 hours returned and informed me that not one of those Squirels were to be Seen out of their holes. the Skins of the party which they had been dressing Since yesterday being now completely dressed I derected all loose baggage to be put on board the Canoes and at 10 A.M. Set out and proceeded on passed the white river at 12 oClock and halted below the enterance of Shannons Creek where we were joined by Labeech Shannon and Willard, they had killed 2 common der but no Mule deer or antilopes. Willard informed me that he Saw 2 antilopes but Could not get near to them. Willard and Labiech waded white river a fiew miles above its enterance and inform me that they found it 2 feet water and 200 yards wide. the water of this river at this time nearly as white as milk. put Drewyer out to hunt on the S W. Side and proceeded on below the round Island and landed on the N. E. Side I with Several of the men went out in pursute of Buffalow. the men killed 2 Bulls near me they were very por I assended to the high Country and from an eminance, I had a view of the plains for a great distance. from this eminance I had a view of a greater number of buffalow than I had ever Seen before at one time. I must have Seen near 20,000 of those animals feeding on this plain. I have observed that in the country between the nations which are at war with each other the greatest numbers of wild animals are to be found- on my return to the river I killed 2 young deer. after Dinner we proceeded down the river about 3 mile to the Camp of Jo. & Rubin fields and Collins, and encamped on the S W. Side a little below our encampment of 13th Septr. 1804, haveing made 20 Miles only. neither of the hunters killed either a Black tail deer or an antilope. Jo. Fields & Shields each killed a porcupin and two others of the hunters Killed Deer, Drewyer did not join us untill 10 P.M. he informed that he Saw some antilopes and Mule deer but Could kill none of them. Jo. Field informed that he wounded female of the Mule deer a little below our Camp late in the evening and could not prosue her I directed him to Set out with 3 others and follow the Deer and get her if possible early in the morning.
Friday, August 29, 1806, was a cloudy morning as the hunters continued as instructed the night before. I sent out two men to the village of barking squirrels with orders to kill some of them. After two hours, they returned and informed me that none of the squirrels were seen outside their holes. The skins they had been working on since yesterday were now fully prepared, so I directed all loose baggage to be loaded onto the canoes. At 10 A.M., we set out and continued on, passing the white river at noon and halting below the entrance of Shannon's Creek, where we were joined by Labeech Shannon and Willard. They had killed two common deer but no mule deer or antelopes. Willard told me he saw two antelopes but couldn't get close to them. Willard and Labeech waded the white river a few miles above its entrance and informed me that it was two feet deep and 200 yards wide. At this time, the water of this river was nearly as white as milk. I sent Drewyer out to hunt on the southwest side and continued below Round Island, landing on the northeast side. Several of us went out in pursuit of buffalo. The men killed two bulls nearby; they were very poor. I climbed to the high country and from an elevation, I could see the plains for a great distance. From this viewpoint, I saw more buffalo than I had ever seen at one time—almost 20,000 of them feeding on the plain. I noticed that the highest numbers of wild animals are found in areas between nations at war with each other. On my way back to the river, I killed two young deer. After lunch, we headed downriver about three miles to the camp of Jo and Rubin Fields and Collins, camping on the southwest side just below our encampment from September 13, 1804, having traveled only 20 miles. Neither of the hunters killed a blacktail deer or an antelope. Jo. Fields and Shields each killed a porcupine, and two other hunters killed deer. Drewyer didn't join us until 10 P.M. He informed me that he saw some antelopes and mule deer but couldn't kill any of them. Jo. Field mentioned he wounded a female mule deer a little below our camp late in the evening and couldn't pursue her. I instructed him to set out with three others and follow the deer to get her if possible early in the morning.
[Clark, August 30, 1806]
Saturday 30th of August 1806 Capt. Lewis is mending Slowly. we set out at the usial hour and proceeded on very well a fiew miles Jo Field who was on the Shore being behind I derected one of the Small Canoes with R. Fields & Shannon to continue on the point of a Sand bar untill he corns up. I took 3 hunters and walked on the N E Shore with a view to kill Some fat meet. we had not proceeded far before Saw a large plumb orchd of the most deelicious plumbs, out of this orchard 2 large Buck Elks ran the hunters killed them. I Stoped the Canoes and brought in the flesh which was fat and fine. here the party Collected as many plumbs as they could eate and Several pecks of which they put by &c. after a delay of nearly 2 hours we again proceeded on downwards passed 3 Small Islands and as we were about to land at the place appointed to wait for the 2 fields and Shannon, I saw Several men on horseback which with the help of a Spie glass I found to be Indians on the high hills to the N E we landed on the S. W. Side and I sent out two men to a village of Barking Squirels to kill Some of those animals imedeatily after landing about 20 indians was discovered on an eminanc a little above us on the opposite Side. one of those men I took to be a freinch man from his a blanket Capoe & a handkerchief around his head. imediately after 80 or 90 Indian men all armed with fusees & Bows & arrows Came out of a wood on the opposite bank about 1/4 of a mile below us. they fired of their guns as a Salute we returned the Salute with 2 rounds. we were at a loss to deturmin of what nation those indians were. from their hostile appearance we were apprehensive they were Tetons. but from the Country through which they roved we were willing to believe them eithe the Yanktons, Ponars or Mahars either of which nations are well disposed towards the white people. I deturmined to find out who they were without running any resque of the party and indians, and therefore took three french men who could Speak the Mahar Pania and some Seioux and in a Small canoe I went over to a Sand bar which extended Sufficently near the opposite Shore to Converse. imedeately after I Set out 3 young men Set out from the opposite Side and Swam next me on the Sand bar. I derected the men to Speak to them in the Pania and mahar Languages first neither of which they could understand I then derected the man who could Speak a fiew words of Seioux to inquire what nation or tribe they belong to they informed me that they were Tetons and their Chief was Tar-tack-kah-sabbar or the black buffalow This Chief I knew very well to be the one we had seen with his band at Teton river which band had attempted to detain us in the fall of 1804 as we assended this river and with whome we wer near comeing to blows. I told those Indians that they had been deef to our councils and ill treated us as we assended this river two years past, that they had abused all the whites who had visited them since. I believed them to be bad people & Should not Suffer them to cross to the Side on which the party lay, and directed them to return with their band to their Camp, that if any of them come near our camp we Should kill them certainly. I lef them on the bear and returned to th party and examined the arms &c. those indians seeing Some Corn in the Canoe requested Some of it which I refused being deturmined to have nothing to do with those people. Several others Swam across one of which understood pania, and as our pania interpreter was a very good one we had it in our power to inform what we wished. I told this man to inform his nation that we had not forgot their treatment to us as we passed up this river &c. that they had treated all the white people who had visited them very badly; robed them of their goods, and had wounded one man whome I had Seen. we viewed them as bad people and no more traders would be Suffered to come to them, and whenever the white people wished to visit the nations above they would Come Sufficiently Strong to whip any vilenous party who dare to oppose them and words to the Same purpote. I also told them that I was informed that a part of all their bands were gorn to war against the Mandans &c, and that they would be well whiped as the Mandans & Menetarres & had a plenty of Guns Powder and ball, and we had given them a Cannon to defend themselves. and derected them to return from the Sand bar and inform their Chiefs what we had Said to them, and to keep away from the river or we Should kill every one of them &c. &c. those fellows requested to be allowed to Come across and make Cumerads which we positively refused and I directed them to return imediately which they did and after they had informed the Chiefs &c. as I Suppose what we had Said to them, they all Set out on their return to their Camps back of a high hill. 7 of them halted on the top of the hill and blackguarded us, told us to come across and they would kill us all &c. of which we took no notice. we all this time were extreamly anxious for the arival of the 2 fields & Shannon whome we had left behind, and were Some what consd. as to their Safty. to our great joy those men hove in Sight at 6 P.M. Jo. Fields had killed 3 black tail or mule deer. we then Set out, as I wished to See what those Indians on the hill would act. we Steared across near the opposit Shore, this notion put them Some agitation as to our intentions, some Set out on the direction towards their Camps others walked about on the top of the hill and one man walked down the hill to meet us and invited us to land to which invitation I paid no kind of attention. this man I knew to be the one who had in the fall 1804 accompaned us 2 days and is Said to be the friend to the white people. after we passd. him he returned on the top of the hill and gave 3 Strokes with the gun he had in his hand this I am informed is a great oath among the indians. we proceeded on down about 6 miles and encamped on a large Sand bar in the middle of the river about 2 miles above our encampment on Mud Island on the 10th Septr. 1804 haveing made 22 miles only to Day. Saw Several Indians on the hills at a distance this evening viewing us. our encampment of this evening was a very disagreable one, bleak exposed to the winds, and the Sand wet. I pitched on this Situation to prevent being disturbed by those Scioux in the Course of the night as well as to avoid the Musquetors-. Killed 9 whistleing squirels.
Saturday, August 30, 1806. Capt. Lewis is slowly recovering. We set out at the usual hour and made good progress for a few miles. Jo Field, who was on the shore, fell behind, so I sent one of the small canoes with R. Fields and Shannon to continue along a sandbar until he caught up. I took three hunters and walked along the northeast shore hoping to find some fat meat. We hadn’t gone far before we spotted a large plum orchard filled with the most delicious plums. From this orchard, two large male elk took off, and the hunters shot them. I stopped the canoes and brought in the meat, which was fat and prime. The group collected as many plums as they could eat, and several pecks were set aside. After a delay of nearly two hours, we proceeded downstream, passing three small islands. As we were about to land at the designated spot to wait for the two Fields and Shannon, I noticed several men on horseback. Using a spyglass, I confirmed they were Native Americans on the high hills to the northeast. We landed on the southwest side, and I sent out two men to a colony of squirrels to kill some of those animals. Immediately after landing, about 20 Native Americans were spotted on a high point a bit above us on the opposite side. One of them seemed to be a Frenchman based on his blanket cap and the handkerchief around his head. Soon after, 80 to 90 Native American men, all armed with guns, bows, and arrows, emerged from the woods on the opposite bank about a quarter-mile below us. They fired their guns as a salute, and we returned the salute with two rounds. We were uncertain what nation these Native Americans belonged to. From their hostile demeanor, we feared they were Tetons, but considering the territory they inhabited, we hoped they were either Yanktons, Ponars, or Mahars, all of which are usually friendly toward white people. I decided to find out who they were without putting our group or ourselves in danger, so I took three Frenchmen who could speak the Mahar Pania and a bit of Sioux, and in a small canoe, I crossed to a sandbar that was close enough to the opposite shore for a conversation. Shortly after I set out, three young men swam over to me on the sandbar. I instructed my men to speak to them in Pania and Mahar words first; neither of which they understood. Then I had the man who knew a few words of Sioux ask what nation or tribe they belonged to. They informed me they were Tetons and that their chief was Tar-tack-kah-sabbar, or the black buffalo. I recognized this chief as someone we had encountered with his band at the Teton River, which had tried to prevent us from passing in the fall of 1804, and with whom we nearly came to blows. I told these Native Americans that they had ignored our counsel and mistreated us while we ascended this river two years ago, abusing all whites that had visited them since. I believed them to be bad people and would not allow them to cross to the side where our party lay. I instructed them to return to their camp and warned that if any of them came near our camp, we would kill them without hesitation. I left them on the sandbar and returned to my group to check our arms, etc. The Native Americans saw some corn in the canoe and requested some. I refused, determined not to engage with those people. Several others swam across, one of whom understood Pania. Since our Pania interpreter was very competent, we could convey our message. I told this man to inform his nation that we had not forgotten their treatment of us when we passed up this river, mentioning how they had mistreated all white visitors by robbing them and injuring one man I had seen. We viewed them as bad people, and no more traders would be allowed to visit them. I warned that whenever white people wanted to visit the nations upstream, they would come with enough strength to defeat any vile party that dared to oppose them, and I made similar statements. I also informed them that I had heard some of their band had gone to war against the Mandans, and they would be badly defeated since the Mandans and Menetarres had plenty of guns, powder, and bullets, and we had supplied them with a cannon for their defense. I ordered them to return to their side of the sandbar and inform their chiefs of what we had said, and advised them to stay away from the river, or we would kill every one of them. These men asked to be allowed to cross and befriend us, which we firmly refused, and I directed them to return immediately, which they did. After informing their chiefs of what I suppose we had said, they all set off towards their camps behind a high hill. Seven of them stopped at the top of the hill and shouted insults at us, telling us to come across so they could kill us. We ignored them. Meanwhile, we were extremely anxious for the arrival of the two Fields and Shannon, whom we had left behind, and were somewhat concerned for their safety. To our great joy, those men appeared around 6 PM. Jo Fields had killed three black-tailed or mule deer. We then set out, as I wanted to see how the Native Americans on the hill would react. We steered across toward the opposite shore, causing some agitation among them regarding our intentions. Some moved toward their camps, while others wandered about on the top of the hill, and one man descended to meet us and invited us to land. I ignored his invitation. I recognized him as someone who had accompanied us for two days in the fall of 1804 and was said to be a friend of white people. After passing him, he returned to the top of the hill and made three gunshots, which I learned is a significant oath among Native Americans. We continued down the river for about six miles and camped on a large sandbar in the middle of the river, about two miles above our previous encampment on Mud Island from September 10, 1804, having only traveled 22 miles today. We saw several Native Americans at a distance this evening observing us. Our campsite this evening was very unpleasant, exposed to winds and wet sand. I chose this location to avoid disturbance from the Sioux during the night and to evade mosquitoes. I killed nine whistling squirrels.
[Clark, August 31, 1806]
Saturday 31st August 1806 all wet and disagreeable this morning. at half past 11 last night the wind Shifted about to the N. W. and it began to rain with hard Claps of thunder and lightning the Clouds passd over and the wind Shifted about to the S W. & blew with great violence So much So that all hands were obliged to hold the Canoes & Perogue to prevent their being blown off from the Sand bar, however a Suden Squal of wind broke the cables of the two Small Canoes and with Some dificuelty they were got to Shore Soon after the 2 Canoes in which Sergt. Pryor and the indians go in broke loose with wiser and Willard in them and were blown quite across the river to the N E. Shore where fortunately they arived Safe, I Sent Sergt. Jo Ordway with a Small perogue and 6 men to prosue the 2 Canoes and assist them in effecting a landing, those 2 Canoes being tied together 2 men could not manage them, the wind Slackened a little and by 2 A.M. Sergt Ordway with willard wiser and the 2 Canoes returned all Safe, the wind continud to blow and it rained untill day light all wet and disagreeable. all the party examind their arms and put them in order and we Set out and proceeded on down. Saw Several Indians on the hills untill we passed the Island of Cedar 9 A. M the morning Cloudy and wind down the the river at 4 P.M. passed the doome and lowest village of Barking Squirels. this is also the highest up the river where I observed the fox Squirel in the bottom above the doome on N. E Side I killed 2 fox Squirels. we Saw no game of any kind to day as the banks as usial. the Sun Shone with a number of flying Clouds. we encamped on the N. E. Side a little below our Encampment of the 5th of Septr. on no preserve Island haveing Come 70 Miles.
Saturday, August 31, 1806, was wet and unpleasant this morning. At 11:30 last night, the wind shifted to the northwest, and it started raining with loud thunder and lightning. The clouds moved over, and the wind changed to the southwest, blowing with great force. So much so that everyone had to hold onto the canoes and perogue to keep them from being blown off the sandbar. However, a sudden gust of wind broke the cables of the two small canoes, and with some difficulty, they were brought to shore. Soon after, the two canoes with Sergeant Pryor and the Indians broke loose, with Wiser and Willard in them, and were blown across the river to the northeast shore, where they fortunately arrived safely. I sent Sergeant Jo Ordway with a small perogue and six men to pursue the two canoes and help them land. Since the two canoes were tied together, two men couldn't manage them alone. The wind calmed a little, and by 2 AM, Sergeant Ordway, Wiser, Willard, and the two canoes returned all safe. The wind continued to blow, and it rained until daylight, making it all wet and unpleasant. The whole party checked their arms and got them ready, and we set out and continued down the river. We saw several Indians on the hills until we passed Cedar Island at 9 AM. The morning was cloudy, with the wind coming downriver. By 4 PM, we passed the dome and the lowest village of barking squirrels. This is also the highest point up the river where I saw the fox squirrel in the bottom above the dome on the northeast side; I killed two fox squirrels. We saw no game today as the banks were typical. The sun shone through a number of flying clouds. We camped on the northeast side just below our camp from September 5th, having covered 70 miles.
[Clark, September 1, 1806]
Monday 1st of September 1806 Musquitors very troublesom last night, we set out at the usial hour and had not proceeded on far before the fog became So thick that we were oblige to come too and delay half an hour for the fog to pass off which it did in Some measure and we again proceded on R. Jo. Fields and Shannon landed on an Ponceras Island to try to kill Some deer which was Seen on the beech and the Canoes all passed them at 9 A. M we passed the enterance of River Quiequur which had the Same appearance it had when we passed up water rapid and of a milky white Colour about two miles below the Quicurre, 9 Indians ran down the bank and beckened to us to land, they appeared to be a war party, and I took them to be Tetons and paid no kind of attention to them further than an enquirey to what tribe they belonged, they did not give me any answer, I prosume they did not understand the man who Spoke to them as he Spoke but little of their language. as one Canoe was yet behind we landed in an open Commanding Situation out of Sight of the indians deturmined to delay untill they Came up. about 15 minits after we had landed Several guns were fired by the indians, which we expected was at the three men behind. I calld out 15 men and ran up with a fill deturmination to Cover them if possible let the number of the indians be what they might. Capt Lewis hobled up on the bank and formed the remainder of the party in a Situation well calculated to defend themselves and the Canoes &c. when I had proceeded to the point about 250 yards I discovered the Canoe about 1 mile above & the indians where we had left them. I then walked on the Sand beech and the indians came down to meet me I gave them my hand and enquired of them what they were Shooting at, they informed me that they were Shooting off their guns at an old Keg which we had thrown out of one of the Canoes and was floating down. those Indians informed me they were Yanktons, one of the men with me knew one of the Indians to be the brother of young Durion's wife. finding those indians to be Yanktons I invited them down to the boats to Smoke. when we arived at the Canoes they all eagerly Saluted the Mandan Chief, and we all Set and Smoked Several pipes. I told them that we took them to be a party of Tetons and the fireing I expected was at the three men in the rear Canoe and I had went up with a full intention to kill them all if they had been tetons & fired on the Canoe as we first expected, but finding them Yanktons and good men we were glad to See them and take them by the hand as faithfull Children who had opened their ears to our Councils. one of them Spoke and Said that their nation had opened their years, & done as we had directed them ever Since we gave the Meadel to their great Chief, and Should Continue to do as we had told them we enquired if any of their Chiefs had gone down with Mr. Durion, the answered that their great Chief and many of their brave men had gone down, that the white people had built a house near the Mahar village where they traded. we tied a piec of ribon to each mans hair and gave them Some Corn of which they appeared much pleased. The Mandan Cheif gave a par of elegant Legins to the principal man of the indian party, which is an indian fashion. the Canoe & 3 men haveing joined us we took our leave of this party telling them to return to their band and listen to our councils which we had before given to them. Their band of 80 Lodges were on plum Creek a fiew miles to north. those nine men had five fusees and 4 bows & quivers of arrows. at 2 P.M. we came too on the upper point of bon homme opposit the antient fortification and Sent out men to hunt on each Side and on the island. and the canoes on each Side of the island to receive any meat might be killed I walked on the N. E. main Shore found the bottom rich and thickly covered with Peavine rich weed grass interwoven in Such a manner with grape vines that I could not get through and was obliged to assend a high plains the passing through which I also found tiresom. the grass was nearly as high as my head and the musquitors excessively bad. at the lower point of the Island all the Canoes & hunters Came together. Labeech killed an Elk only the flesh of which was brought on in the perogue. at this island we brought 2 years together or on the 1st of Septr. 1804 we Encamped at the lower point of this Island. after we all Came together we again proceeded on down to a large Sand bar imediately opposit to the place were we met the Yanktons in Council at the Calumet Bluffs and which place we left on the it of Septr. 1804. I observed our old flag Staff or pole Standing as we left it. the musquitors excessively troublesom untill about 10 P.M. when the S W wind became Strong and blew the most of them off. we came 52 miles to day only with a head wind. the Country on either Side are butifull and the plains much richer below the Queiquer river than above that river.
Monday, September 1, 1806 The mosquitoes were very annoying last night. We set out at the usual hour and hadn’t gone far before the fog became so thick that we had to stop and wait half an hour for it to lift, which it did somewhat, and we continued on. R. Jo. Fields and Shannon landed on Ponceras Island to try to hunt some deer they saw on the beach, and all the canoes passed them at 9 A.M. We passed the mouth of the River Quiequur, which looked the same as when we went upstream—rapid and milky white in color. About two miles below Quicurre, nine Indians ran down the bank and signaled for us to land. They seemed to be a war party, and I assumed they were Tetons, so I didn’t pay them much attention other than asking what tribe they belonged to. They didn’t answer, so I presumed they didn’t understand the man who spoke to them, as he knew very little of their language. Since one canoe was still behind, we landed in an open area where we couldn’t be seen by the Indians, determined to wait until they caught up. About 15 minutes after we landed, several shots were fired by the Indians, which we thought were aimed at the three men behind. I called out to 15 men and headed up with the intention of covering them if needed, no matter how many Indians there were. Capt. Lewis hobbled up to the bank and positioned the rest of the party in a way that was good for self-defense and to protect the canoes, etc. When I reached a point about 250 yards away, I spotted the canoe about a mile upstream, along with the Indians we left behind. I walked along the sandy beach, and the Indians came down to meet me. I shook their hands and asked what they were shooting at. They told me they were firing their guns at an old keg we tossed out of one of the canoes, which was floating downstream. Those Indians identified themselves as Yanktons; one of the men with me recognized one of the Indians as the brother of young Durion's wife. Realizing they were Yanktons, I invited them down to the boats to smoke. When we arrived at the canoes, they all eagerly greeted the Mandan Chief, and we sat down to smoke several pipes. I told them we initially thought they were Tetons and that I expected the firing was aimed at the three men in the rear canoe. I mentioned that I was prepared to attack them if they had indeed been Tetons who had fired on us, but finding out they were Yanktons and good men, we were glad to see them and shake their hands as faithful allies who had listened to our counsel. One of them spoke up, saying their nation had indeed listened and followed our directions ever since we gave the medal to their great chief, and they would continue to do as we instructed. We asked if any of their chiefs had gone down with Mr. Durion, and they replied that their great chief and many brave men had gone down, mentioning that the white people had built a house near the Mahar village for trading. We tied a piece of ribbon to each man's hair and gave them some corn, which they appreciated. The Mandan Chief gave a pair of elegant leggings to the principal man of the Indian party, which is traditional among them. After the canoe and the three men joined us, we bid farewell to the party, telling them to return to their band and heed the counsel we had given them before. Their band, consisting of 80 lodges, was a few miles north on Plum Creek. These nine men had five fusils and four bows with quivers of arrows. At 2 P.M., we stopped at the upper point of Bon Homme, opposite the ancient fortification, and sent out men to hunt on each side and on the island, with canoes ready to collect any meat that might be caught. I walked along the northeastern main shore and found the ground rich and thickly covered with pea vine and lush weed grass, so densely interwoven with grapevines that I couldn’t get through and had to climb a high plain. Passing through it was tiring as well; the grass was nearly as high as my head, and the mosquitoes were excessively bothersome. At the lower point of the island, all the canoes and hunters assembled. Labeech killed an elk, but only the meat was brought back on the perogue. At this island, we had camped two years together; on September 1, 1804, we set up at the lower point of this island. After everyone came together, we continued down to a large sandbar directly opposite where we met the Yanktons in council at Calumet Bluffs when we departed on September 1, 1804. I noted our old flagstaff or pole still standing as we left it. The mosquitoes were exceptionally bothersome until about 10 P.M., when the southwest wind picked up and blew most of them away. We traveled 52 miles today despite the headwind. The country on both sides is beautiful, and the plains are much richer below the Queiquer River than above it.
[Clark, September 2, 1806]
Tuesday 2nd of September 1806 Set out at the usial hour passed the River Jacque at 8 A.M. in the first bottom below on the N E. Side I observed the remains of a house which had been built since we passed up, this most probably was McClellins tradeing house with the Yanktons in the Winter of 1804 & 5 the wind was hard a head & continued to increas which obliged us to lay by nearly all day. as our Store of meat, I took with me 8 men and prosued a Small Gang of Cows in the plains 3 miles and killed two which was in very good order, had them butchered and each man took a load as much as he Could Carry and returned to the Canoes, the wind Still high and water rough we did not Set out untill near Sun Set we proceded to a Sand bar a Short distance below the place we had Come too on account of the wind and Encamped on a Sand bar, the woods being the harbor of the Musquetors and the party without the means of Screaning themselves from those tormenting insects. on the Sand bars the wind which generaly blows moderately at night blows off those pests and we Sleep Soundly. The wind Continued to blow hard from the Same point S. E untill 3 P. M I saw in my walk to day Lynn and Slipery Elm. the plains are tolerably leavel on each Side and very fertile. I saw 4 prarie fowls Common to the Illinois, those are the highest up which have been Seen, white Oak is very Common also white ash on the riveens and high bottoms. two turkys killed to day of which the Indians very much admired being the first which they ever Saw. Capt L. is mending fast—we made only 22 Miles to day.
Tuesday, September 2, 1806 We set out at the usual hour and crossed the River Jacque at 8 A.M. In the first low area on the northeast side, I noticed the remains of a house that had been built since our last passage. This was most likely McClellin's trading post with the Yanktons during the winter of 1804-1805. The wind was blowing hard against us and continued to get stronger, which forced us to stay put for most of the day. Since our meat supplies were low, I took 8 men to pursue a small group of cows in the plains 3 miles away and successfully killed two that were in great condition. We butchered them, and each man took a load as much as he could carry back to the canoes. With the wind still high and the water rough, we didn't set out until nearly sunset. We made our way to a sandbar a short distance downstream from where we had paused, due to the wind, and set up camp there. The woods were sheltering the mosquitoes, and the party had no way to shield themselves from those annoying insects. However, on the sandbars, the wind, which usually blows moderately at night, drives away those pests, allowing us to sleep soundly. The wind continued to blow hard from the southeast until 3 P.M. During my walk today, I spotted linden and slippery elm trees. The plains on either side are fairly level and very fertile. I saw 4 prairie chickens common to Illinois; these are the farthest upstream that have been observed. White oak is quite common, as is white ash in the riverbanks and high bottoms. We also killed two turkeys today, which the Indians were very impressed by since they had never seen any before. Captain L. is recovering quickly—we only covered 22 miles today.
[Clark, September 3, 1806]
Wednesday 3rd of September 1806 Wind Continued to blow very hard this morning. it Shifted last night to the S. W. and blew the Sand over us in Such a manner as to render the after part of the night very disagreeable. the wind luled a little and we Set out and proceeded on with the wind a head passed the enterance of redstone River on the N E. Side at 11 A M. and at half past 4 P. M we Spied two boats & Several men, our party peyed their Ores and we Soon landed on the Side of the Boats the men of these boats Saluted us with their Small arms I landed & was met by a Mr. James Airs from Mackanaw by way of Prarie Dechien and St. Louis. this Gentleman is of the house of Dickson & Co. of Prarie de Chian who has a Licence to trade for one year with the Sieoux he has 2 Batteaux loaded with Merchendize for that purpose. This Gentleman receved both Capt. Lewis and my Self with every mark of friendship he was himself at the time with a chill of the agu on him which he has had for Several days. our first enquirey was after the President of our country and then our friends and the State of the politicks of our country &c. and the State Indian affairs to all of which enquireys Mr. Aires gave us as Satisfactory information as he had it in his power to have Collected in the Illinois which was not a great deel. soon after we Landed a violent Storm of Thunder Lightning and rain from the N W. which was violent with hard Claps of thunder and Sharp Lightning which continued untill 10 P M after which the wind blew hard. I set up late and partook of the tent of Mr. Aires which was dry. Mr. Aires unfortunately had his boat Sunk on the 25 of July last by a violent Storm of Wind and hail by which accident he lost the most of his usefull articles as he informd. us. this Gentleman informed us of maney Changes & misfortunes which had taken place in the Illinois amongst others the loss of Mr. Cady Choteaus house and furniture by fire. for this misfortune of our friend Choteaus I feel my Self very much Concernd &c. he also informed us that Genl. Wilkinson was the governor of the Louisiana and at St. Louis. 300 of the american Troops had been Contuned on the Missouri a fiew miles above it's mouth, Some disturbance with the Spaniards in the Nackatosh Country is the Cause of their being Called down to that Country, the Spaniards had taken one of the U, States frigates in the Mediteranean, Two British Ships of the line had fired on an American Ship in the port of New York, and killed the Capts. brother. 2 Indians had been hung in St. Louis for murder and several others in jale. and that Mr. Burr & Genl. Hambleton fought a Duel, the latter was killed &c. &c. I am happy to find that my worthy friend Capt L's is so well as to walk about with ease to himself &c., we made 60 Miles to day the river much crowded with Sand bars, which are very differently Situated from what they were when we went up.
Wednesday, September 3, 1806 The wind continued to blow very hard this morning. It shifted last night to the southwest and blew sand over us in such a way that made the latter part of the night quite uncomfortable. The wind eased a bit, and we set out and made progress against a headwind, passing the entrance of the Redstone River on the northeast side at 11 AM. At 4:30 PM, we spotted two boats and several men. Our party paused their rowing, and we soon landed beside the boats. The men on these boats greeted us with their small arms. I got out and was met by Mr. James Airs from Mackinaw, traveling through Prairie du Chien and St. Louis. This gentleman is affiliated with the house of Dickson & Co. in Prairie du Chien, which has a license to trade for one year with the Sioux. He has two bateaux loaded with merchandise for that purpose. Mr. Airs received both Capt. Lewis and me with every mark of friendliness, even though he was dealing with a chill from the ague that he had been suffering from for several days. Our first inquiries were about the President of our country, followed by questions about our friends and the state of our country's politics, as well as the situation with the Indians. To all these inquiries, Mr. Airs provided as satisfactory information as he had been able to collect in Illinois, which wasn’t a great deal. Soon after we landed, a violent storm of thunder, lightning, and rain came from the northwest, featuring loud claps of thunder and sharp lightning, which continued until 10 PM, after which the wind blew hard. I stayed up late and took shelter in Mr. Airs' dry tent. Unfortunately, Mr. Airs had his boat sunk on July 25 by a violent storm with wind and hail, losing most of his useful items as he informed us. This gentleman told us about many changes and misfortunes that had occurred in Illinois, including the loss of Mr. Cady Choteau's house and furniture in a fire. I feel very concerned about this misfortune for our friend Choteau. He also let us know that Gen. Wilkinson was the governor of Louisiana and was currently in St. Louis. Three hundred American troops had been stationed a few miles above the mouth of the Missouri River due to some disturbances with the Spaniards in the Natchitoches country. The Spaniards had captured one of the U.S. frigates in the Mediterranean, and two British ships had fired on an American ship in the port of New York, killing the captain’s brother. Two Indians had been hanged in St. Louis for murder, and several others were in jail. Additionally, Mr. Burr and Gen. Hambleton had fought a duel, in which the latter was killed, among other events. I am glad to see that my good friend Capt. L is doing well enough to walk around easily. We traveled 60 miles today, but the river was very crowded with sandbars, which are positioned quite differently from when we traveled upstream.
[Clark, September 4, 1806]
Thursday 4th September 1806 The Musquitors became troublesom early this morning I rose at the usial hour found all the party as wet as rain could make them. as we were in want of Some tobacco I purposed to Mr. Airs to furnish us with 4 Carrots for which we would Pay the amount to any Merchant of St. Louis he very readily agreed to furnish us with tobacco and gave to each man as much as it is necessary for them to use between this and St. Louis, an instance of Generossity for which every man of the party appears to acknowledge. Mr. Airs also insisted on our accepting a barrel of flourwe gave to this gentleman what Corn we Could Spear amounting to about 6 bushels, this Corn was well Calculated for his purpose as he was about to make his establishment and would have it in his power to hull the Corn & The flower was very acceptable to us. we have yet a little flour part of what we carried up from the Illinois as high as Maria's river and buried it there untill our return &c. at 8 A. M we took our leave and Set out, and proceeded on very well, at 11 A.M. passed the Enterance of the big Sieoux River which is low, and at meridian we came too at Floyds Bluff below the Enterance of Floyds river and assended the hill, with Capt Lewis and Several men, found the grave had been opened by the nativs and left half Covered. we had this grave Completely filled up, and returned to the Canoes and proceeded on to the Sand bar on which we encamped from the 12th to the 20th of August 1804 near the Mahar Village, here we came to and derected every wet article put out to dry, all the bedding of the party and Skins being wet. as it was late in the evening we deturmined to continue all night. had issued to each man of the party a cup of flour. we See no Species of Game on the river as usial except wild geese and pelicans. I observed near Sergt Floyds Grave a number of flurishing black walnut trees, these are the first which I have seen decending the river. a little before night Several Guns were heard below and in a direction towards the Mahar village which induced us to suspect that Mr. McClellin who we was informed was on his way up to trade with the Mahars had arived at the Creek below and that those reports of Guns was Some of his party out hunting. every thing being dry we derected the Perogue & Canoes to be loaded and in readiness to Set out in the morning early. at dark the Musquetors became troublesom and continued So all night the party obtained but little Sleep—we made 36 miles only to daye.
Thursday, September 4, 1806 The mosquitoes became troublesome early this morning. I got up at the usual hour and found everyone as wet as could be from the rain. Since we needed some tobacco, I proposed to Mr. Airs to provide us with 4 carrots, and we would pay the equivalent to any merchant in St. Louis. He readily agreed to supply us with tobacco and gave each man enough to last until we reach St. Louis, an act of generosity for which everyone in the party is grateful. Mr. Airs also insisted that we accept a barrel of flour, and in return, we gave him all the corn we could spare, which amounted to about 6 bushels. This corn was perfect for him as he was about to establish his business and would be able to hull it, while the flour was very welcome to us. We still have a bit of flour left over from what we brought from Illinois, which we buried by Maria's River until our return. At 8 A.M., we took our leave and set out, proceeding well. By 11 A.M., we passed the entrance of the Big Sioux River, which was low, and at noon, we stopped at Floyd's Bluff, just below the entrance of Floyd's River. I ascended the hill with Captain Lewis and several men and found that the grave had been opened by the natives and was left half-covered. We completely filled in the grave and returned to the canoes, then continued on to the sandbar where we camped from August 12th to 20th, 1804, near the Mahar village. Here, we decided to dry out all the wet items, as everyone's bedding and skins were soaked. Since it was late in the evening, we determined to stay the night. Each man received a cup of flour. As usual, we saw no game on the river except for wild geese and pelicans. Near Sergeant Floyd's grave, I noticed several thriving black walnut trees; these are the first I've seen while traveling down the river. Just before nightfall, we heard several gunshots coming from the direction of the Mahar village, leading us to suspect that Mr. McClellin, whom we were told was on his way up to trade with the Mahars, had arrived at the creek below, and those gunshots might be from some members of his party out hunting. With everything now dry, we instructed the pirogue and canoes to be loaded and ready to leave early in the morning. At dark, the mosquitoes became bothersome and kept us up all night; we only made 36 miles today.
[Clark, September 5, 1806]
Friday 5th September 1806 The Musquetors being So excessively tormenting that the party was all on board and we Set out at day light and proceeded on very well. here the river is bordered on both sides with timber &c becoms much narrower more Crooked and the Current more rapid and Crouded with Snags or Sawyers than it is above, and continus So all day. We did not meet with McClellen as we expected at the Creek. the report of the guns which was heard must have been the Mahars who most probably have just arrived at their village from hunting the buffalow. this is a Season they usialy return to their village to Secure their Crops of Corn Beens punkins &c &c. proceeded on very well passd. the blue Stone bluff at 3 P. M here the river leaves the high lands and meanders through a low rich bottom. Encamped on the S W Side on a Sand bar at a cut off a little below our Encampment of the 9th of August 1804. haveing made 73 Miles to day- Capt. Lewis still in a Convelesent State. We Saw no game on the Shores to day worth killig only Such as pelicans Geese ducks, Eagles and Hawks &c.-
Friday, September 5, 1806. The mosquitoes were so unbearable that the whole party boarded and set out at dawn. We made good progress. Here, the river is lined with trees on both sides, becoming much narrower, more winding, and the current faster, crowded with snags and sawyers compared to upstream, and this continued all day. We didn't meet McClellen as we expected at the creek. The gunshots we heard must have been from the Mahars, who probably just returned to their village from buffalo hunting. This is the season when they usually come back to secure their crops of corn, beans, pumpkins, etc. We continued on well, passing the Blue Stone bluff at 3 PM. Here, the river leaves the highlands and winds through a low, fertile area. We set up camp on the southwest side on a sandbar at a cutoff a little below where we camped on August 9, 1804, after covering 73 miles today. Captain Lewis is still recovering. We saw no game along the shores today worth killing, only pelicans, geese, ducks, eagles, and hawks, etc.
[Clark, September 6, 1806]
Saturday 6th of September 1806 The Musquetors excessively troublesom we Set out early at the great Cut off Saw a herd of Elk, we landed and Sent out Several hunters to kill Some of the Elk, they returnd. without killing any as the Elk was wild and ran off much fritened. I Sent the two Small Canoes on a head with derections to hunt in two bottoms below, and after a delay of half an hour proceeded on wind-hard a head at the lower point 7 of Pelecan Island a little above the Petite River de Seeoux we met a tradeing boat of Mr. Ag. Choteaux of St Louis bound to the River Jacque to trade with the Yanktons, this boat was in Care of a Mr. Henry Delorn, he had exposed all his loading and Sent out five of his hands to hunt they Soon arived with an Elk. we purchased a gallon of whiskey of this man and gave to each man of the party a dram which is the first Spiritious licquor which had been tasted by any of them Since the 4 of July 1805. Several of the party exchanged leather for linen Shirts and beaver for Corse hats. Those men Could inform us nothing more than that all the troops had movd. from the Illinois and that Genl. Wilkinson was prepareing to leave St. Louis. We advised this trader to treat the Tetons with as much Contempt as possible and Stated to him where he would be benefited by such treatment &c &c. and at 1 P. M Set out those men gave us 2 Shots from a Swivell they had on the bow of their boat which we returned in our turn. proceeded on about 3 miles and Came up with two of the hunters, they had not killd. any thing. at 5 miles we over took the Canoe of the other hunters with Shannon in it floating down, the two fields being in the woods behind we Came too on a Sand bar on the N. E. Side and delayed all the after part of the day for the two Fields, Sent out 3 men to hunt in the bottom up the river and observe if they Saw any Sign of the hunters. the evening proved Cloudy and the wind blew hard two pelicans were killed to day. we came 30 Miles only to day the 2 fieldses did not join us I think they are below. The Chief & the Squaws & children are awarey of their journey. Children cry &c.
Saturday, September 6, 1806 The musketoes were really bothersome. We set out early at the great cutoff and saw a herd of elk. We landed and sent out several hunters to try to catch some elk, but they returned empty-handed because the elk were wild and frightened. I sent the two small canoes ahead with instructions to hunt in two areas downstream, and after a half-hour delay, we continued on against the strong wind. At the lower point of Pelican Island, just above the Petite River de Sioux, we encountered a trading boat belonging to Mr. Ag. Choteaux of St. Louis, which was headed to the River Jacques to trade with the Yanktons. The boat was managed by Mr. Henry Delorn, who had unloaded all his cargo and sent out five of his crew to hunt. They soon returned with an elk. We bought a gallon of whiskey from him and gave each member of our party a shot, which was the first hard liquor any of them had tasted since July 4, 1805. Several members of the party traded leather for linen shirts and beaver for coarse hats. Those men could tell us nothing more except that all the troops had moved from Illinois and that General Wilkinson was preparing to leave St. Louis. We advised this trader to treat the Tetons with as much disdain as possible and pointed out how he would benefit from such treatment, and so on. At 1 P.M., we set out again, and those men fired two shots from a swivel gun on the bow of their boat, which we returned in kind. We proceeded about three miles and caught up with two of the hunters, who hadn’t killed anything. At five miles, we overtook the canoe with the other hunters, including Shannon, floating down the river, while the two Fields were in the woods behind. We stopped on a sandbar on the northeast side and delayed the rest of the day for the two Fields. We sent out three men to hunt upstream and check for any signs of the hunters. The evening turned cloudy, and the wind blew hard; two pelicans were killed today. We traveled only 30 miles today, and the Fields didn’t join us; I think they are downstream. The chief, along with the women and children, is tired from the journey. The children are crying, etc.
[Clark, September 7, 1806]
Sunday 7th September 1806 as we were doubtfull that the two fieldses were behind I derected Sergt. Ordway with 4 men to Continue untill Meridian and if those men did not arive by that hour to proceed on. if we met with them at any Short distance a gun Should be fired which would be a Signal for him to proceed on. we had proceeded on about 8 miles by water and the distance through not more than 1 mile when we Saw the fire of those 2 men, I derected a gun fired as a Signal for Sergt. ordway to proceed on, and took the boys on board. they had killed nothing & informed me they had been Somewhat almd. at our delay, that the distance across from the little Sieoux river was about 1 1/2 miles only, the bottoms thick and Grass very high. we proceded on with a Stiff Breeze ahead (note the evaperation on this portion of the Missouri has been noticed as we assended this river, and it now appears to be greater than it was at that time. I am obliged to replenish my ink Stand every day with fresh ink at least 9/10 of which must evaperate.) we proceded on to a bottom on the S W Side a little above the Soldiers river and Came too and Sent out all the hunters. they killed 3 Elk which was at no great distance we Sent out the men and had the flesh brought in Cooked and Dined. Sergt. Ordway Came up & after takeing a Sumptious Dinner we all Set out at 4 P M wind ahead as usial. at Dusk we came too on the lower part of a Sand bar on the S W side found the Musquetors excessively tormenting not withstanding a Stiff breeze from the S. E. a little after dark the wind increased the Musquetors dispersed our Camp of this night is about 2 miles below our Encampment of the 4th of august 1804 ascending we came 44 miles to day only
Sunday, September 7, 1806. Since we were uncertain about the two men in the fields, I directed Sergeant Ordway and four others to continue until noon. If those men hadn't arrived by then, they were to keep going. If we spotted them at a short distance, a gun would be fired as a signal for him to proceed. We made our way about 8 miles by water, which was no more than 1 mile on land, when we saw the fire from the two men. I ordered a gun to be fired as a signal for Sergeant Ordway to continue, and I brought the others on board. They hadn’t caught anything and informed me they were somewhat alarmed by our delay. The distance across from the Little Sioux River was only about 1.5 miles, with thick bottoms and very tall grass. We pressed on against a stiff breeze (note that the evaporation in this part of the Missouri has been noted as we traveled up this river, and it now seems to be greater than it was before. I have to refill my ink stand with fresh ink every day, at least 9/10 of which must evaporate). We continued to a low area on the southwest side, just above the Soldiers River, and stopped to send out all the hunters. They killed 3 elk, which were not far away. We sent the men out to bring the meat in, cooked it, and had dinner. Sergeant Ordway caught up, and after enjoying a delicious meal, we all set out at 4 PM, with the wind in our faces as usual. At dusk, we stopped at the lower part of a sandbar on the southwest side and found the mosquitoes extremely bothersome, despite a strong breeze from the southeast. A little after dark, the wind picked up, sending the mosquitoes fleeing. Our camp for the night is about 2 miles downstream from where we camped on August 4, 1804. We traveled 44 miles today.
[Clark, September 8, 1806]
Munday 8th September 1806 Set out very early this morning, passed an old tradeing house on the S W Side a few miles above the Council bluffs, at 11 A M we Came too at the bluffs and Capt Lewis and myself walked up on the bluffs and around to examine the Country and Situation more particularly, the Situation appeared to us eaqually as eligable as when we passed up for an establishment, the hill high and Commanding with a high rich bottom of great extent below. we proceeded on very well all being anxious to get to the River Platt to day they ply'd their orers very well, and we arived at our old encampment at White Catfish Camp 12 miles above the river platt at which place we lay from the 22th to the 26th of July 1804 here we encamped haveing made 78 Miles to day. The Missouri at this place does not appear to Contain more water than it did 1000 Miles above this, the evaperation must be emence; in the last 1000 miles this river receives the water 20 rivers and maney Creeks Several of the Rivers large and the Size of this river or the quantity of water does not appear to increas any-
Munday, September 8, 1806 We set out very early this morning and passed an old trading house on the southwest side a few miles above the Council Bluffs. By 11 A.M., we reached the bluffs, and Captain Lewis and I walked up to examine the area more closely. The location seemed just as good for establishing a post as when we last passed through. The hill is high and commanding, with a broad, rich bottomland below. We proceeded well, with everyone eager to reach the Platte River today; they rowed efficiently, and we arrived at our old campsite at White Catfish Camp, 12 miles above the Platte River, where we stayed from July 22 to July 26, 1804. Here we set up camp again, having covered 78 miles today. The Missouri River at this location doesn't seem to have more water than it did 1,000 miles upstream. The evaporation must be immense; in the last 1,000 miles, this river collects water from 20 rivers and many creeks, several of which are quite large, yet the size of this river and its water flow does not appear to increase at all.
[Clark, September 9, 1806]
Tuesday 9th September 1806 Set out early at 8 A. M passed the enterance of the great river Platt which is at this time low the water nearly clear the Current turbelant as usial; the Sand bars which Choked up the Missouri and Confined the river to a narrow Snagey Chanel are wastd a way and nothing remains but a fiew Small remains of the bear which is covered with drift wood, below the R. Platt the Current of the Missouri becomes evidently more rapid than above and the Snags much more noumerous and bad to pass late in the evening we arived at the Bald pated prarie and encamped imediately opposit our encampment of the 16th and 17th of July 1804. haveing made 73 miles only to day. The river bottoms are extencive rich and Covered with tall large timber, and the hollows of the reveins may be Said to be covered with timber Such as Oake ash Elm and Some walnut & hickory. our party appears extreamly anxious to get on, and every day appears produce new anxieties in them to get to their Country and friends. My worthy friend Cap Lewis has entirely recovered his wounds are heeled up and he Can walk and even run nearly as well as ever he Could. the parts are yet tender &c. &.
Tuesday, September 9, 1806. Set out early at 8 A.M. Passed the entrance of the great Platte River, which is low right now with nearly clear water. The current is turbulent as usual; the sandbars that blocked the Missouri and narrowed the river to a tight, snaggy channel are mostly worn away, leaving just a few small remnants of the bear covered in driftwood. Below the Platte, the current of the Missouri is noticeably more rapid than upstream, and there are a lot more snags that make it difficult to pass. Late in the evening, we arrived at the bald-pated prairie and set up camp directly across from where we camped on July 16th and 17th, 1804, having covered only 73 miles today. The river bottoms are extensive and rich, covered with tall, large trees, while the hollows of the ravines are filled with timber like oak, ash, elm, and some walnut and hickory. Our group seems extremely eager to move on, and each day brings new anxieties about getting to their home and loved ones. My good friend Cap Lewis has completely recovered; his wounds have healed, and he can walk and even run nearly as well as he could before. The affected areas are still tender, etc.
The Musquetors are yet troublesom, tho not So much So as they were above the River platt. the Climate is every day preceptably wormer and air more Sultery than I have experienced for a long time. the nights are now So worm that I sleep Comfortable under a thin blanket, a fiew days past 2 was not more than Sufficient
The mosquitoes are still annoying, though not as much as they were above the river. The climate is noticeably getting warmer every day, and the air feels more humid than I’ve experienced in a long time. The nights are now so warm that I sleep comfortably under a thin blanket; just a few days ago, that was barely enough.
[Clark, September 10, 1806]
Wednesday 10th of September 1806 we Set out very early this morning and proceeded on very well with wind moderately a head at ____ P M we met a Mr. Alexander La fass and three french men from St. Louis in a Small perogue on his way to the River Platt to trade with the Pania Luup or Wolf Indians. this man was extreemly friendly to us he offered us any thing he had, we axcepted of a bottle of whisky only which we gave to our party, Mr. la frost informed us that Genl. Wilkinson and all the troops had decended the Mississippi and Mr. Pike and young Mr. Wilkinson had Set out on an expedition up the Arkansaw river or in that direction after a delay of half an hour we proceedd on about 3 miles and met a large perogue and 7 Men from St. Louis bound to the Mahars for the purpose of trade, this perogue was in Charge of a Mt. La Craw, we made Some fiew enquiries of this man and again proceeded on through a very bad part of the river Crouded with Snags & Sawyers and incamped on a Sand bar about 4 miles above the Grand Nemahar. we find the river in this timbered Country narrow and more moveing Sands and a much greater quantity of Sawyers or Snags than above. Great caution and much attention is required to Stear Clear of all those dificuelties in this low State of the water. we made 65 Miles to day. we Saw Deer rackoons and turkies on the Shores to day one of the men killed a racoon which the indians very much admired.
Wednesday, September 10, 1806, we set out very early this morning and made good progress with a light headwind. At ____ PM, we encountered Mr. Alexander La Fass and three Frenchmen from St. Louis in a small canoe on their way to the River Platte to trade with the Pania Luup or Wolf Indians. This man was extremely friendly and offered us anything he had; we only accepted a bottle of whiskey, which we shared with our group. Mr. La Fass informed us that General Wilkinson and all the troops had descended the Mississippi and that Mr. Pike and young Mr. Wilkinson had set out on an expedition up the Arkansas River or in that direction. After a half-hour delay, we continued on for about three miles and met a large canoe and seven men from St. Louis headed to the Mahars for trading purposes; this canoe was in charge of Mr. La Craw. We made a few inquiries and then proceeded through a difficult part of the river filled with snags and sawyers, camping on a sandbar about four miles above the Grand Nemahar. We found the river in this wooded area to be narrow, with more shifting sands and a far greater number of sawyers and snags than upstream. Great caution and attention were required to avoid these obstacles with the water level being so low. We covered 65 miles today. We saw deer, raccoons, and turkeys on the shore; one of the men killed a raccoon, which the Indians admired greatly.
[Clark, September 11, 1806]
Thursday 11th Septr. 1806 a heavy Cloud and wind from the N W. detained us untill after Sunrise at which time we Set out and proceeded on very well, passed the nemahar which was low and did not appear as wide as when we passed up. Wolf river Scercely runs at all, at 3 P. M we halted a little above the Nadawa river on the S. Side of the Missouri to kill Some meat that which we killed a fiew days past being all Spoiled. Sent out 6 hunters they killed and brought in two Deer only, we proceeded on a fiew miles below the Nadawa Island and encamped on a Small Isld. near the N. E. Side, haveing Came 40 Miles only to day, river rapid and in maney places Crouded with Snag's. I observe on the Shores much deer Sign—the mosquitoes are no longer troublesome on the river, from what cause they are noumerous above and not So on this part of the river I cannot account. Wolves were howling in different directions this evening after we had encamped, and the barking of the little prarie wolves resembled those of our Common Small Dogs that 3/4 of the party believed them to be the dogs of Some boat assending which was yet below us. the barking of those little wolves I have frequently taken notice of on this as also the other Side of the Rocky mountains, and their Bark so much resembles or Sounds to me like our Common Small Cur dogs that I have frequently mistaken them for that Speces of dog—The papaws nearly ripe
Thursday, September 11, 1806, a heavy cloud and wind from the northwest held us back until after sunrise. At that point, we set out and made good progress, passing the Nemahar, which was low and didn’t seem as wide as when we came up. Wolf River barely flows at all. At 3 p.m., we stopped a little above the Nadawa River on the south side of the Missouri to get some meat since what we killed a few days ago is all spoiled. We sent out six hunters, and they only managed to kill and bring back two deer. We continued a few miles below Nadawa Island and camped on a small island near the northeast side. We only covered 40 miles today; the river is fast and, in many places, clogged with snags. I've noticed a lot of deer signs on the shores. The mosquitoes aren't a problem on the river anymore, though I can't explain why they are so numerous upstream and not here. Wolves were howling in different directions this evening after we set up camp, and the barking of the little prairie wolves sounded like our common small dogs, which led three-quarters of the party to think they were the dogs of some boat that was still below us. I've often noticed the barking of those little wolves on both sides of the Rocky Mountains, and their bark resembles the sound of our common small cur dogs so much that I frequently confuse them for that type of dog. The papaws are nearly ripe.
[Clark, September 12, 1806]
Friday 12th of September 1806 a thick fog a litile before day which blew off at day light. a heavy Dew this morning. we Set out at Sunrise the usial hour and proceeded on very well about 7 miles met 2 perogues from St. Louis one contained the property of Mr. Choteau bound to the panias on River Platt, the other going up trapping as high as the Mahars. here we met one of the french men who had accompanied us as high as the Mandans he informed us that Mr. McClellen was a fiew miles below the wind blew a head Soon after we pased those perogues, we Saw a man on Shore who informed us that he was one of Mr. McClellens party and that he was a Short distance below, we took this man on board and proceeded on and Met Mr. McClellin at the St. Michl. Prarie we came too here we found Mr. Jo. Gravelin the Ricaras enterpreter whome we had Sent down with a Ricaras Chief in the Spring of 1805 and old Mr. Durion the Sieux enterpreter, we examined the instructions of those interpreters and found that Gravelin was ordered to the Ricaras with a Speach from the president of the U. States to that nation and some presents which had been given the Ricara Cheif who had visited the U. States and unfortunately died at the City of Washington, he was instructed to teach the Ricaras agriculture & make every enquirey after Capt Lewis my self and the party Mr. Durion was enstructed to accompany Gravelin and through his influence pass him with his presents & by the tetons bands of Sieux, and to provale on Some of the Principal chiefs of those bands not exceeding six to Visit the Seat of the Government next Spring he was also enstructed to make every enquirey after us. we made Some Small addition to his instructions by extending the number of Chiefs to 10 or 12 or 3 from each band including the Yanktons &c. Mr. McClellin receved us very politely, and gave us all the news and occurrences which had taken place in the Illinois within his knowledge the evening proveing to be wet and Cloudy we Concluded to continue all night, we despatched the two Canoes a head to hunt with 5 hunters in them
Friday, September 12, 1806, there was a thick fog just before dawn, which cleared away at daylight. It was a heavy dew this morning. We set out at sunrise, our usual hour, and made good progress, covering about 7 miles. We encountered two canoes from St. Louis; one was carrying Mr. Choteau's property to the Pawnee on the Platte River, and the other was heading upstream to trap as far as the Mahars. Here we met one of the French men who had traveled with us to the Mandans. He informed us that Mr. McClellen was a few miles downstream. Soon after passing the canoes, we spotted a man on shore who said he was part of Mr. McClellen's group and was just a short distance below. We took this man on board and continued our journey, meeting Mr. McClellin at St. Michael's Prairie. We stopped here and found Mr. Jo. Gravelin, the Ricaras interpreter, who we had sent down with a Ricaras chief in the spring of 1805, along with old Mr. Durion, the Sioux interpreter. We reviewed the instructions for these interpreters and found that Gravelin was assigned to go to the Ricaras with a speech from the President of the United States and some gifts that had been given to the Ricaras chief who visited the U.S. but unfortunately passed away in Washington, D.C. He was tasked with teaching the Ricaras about agriculture and to inquire after Captain Lewis, myself, and our party. Mr. Durion was instructed to accompany Gravelin and use his influence to assist him with his gifts among the Teton bands of Sioux, and to persuade some of the key chiefs from these bands—not exceeding six—to visit the seat of government next spring. He was also instructed to inquire about us. We added a few small updates to his instructions by increasing the number of chiefs to 10 or 12, or 3 from each band, including the Yanktons, etc. Mr. McClellin received us very politely and shared all the news and events that had occurred in Illinois that he knew about. As the evening turned out to be wet and cloudy, we decided to stay overnight, sending the two canoes ahead with 5 hunters in them.
[Clark, September 13, 1806]
Saturday 13th September 1806 rose early Mr. McClellen gave each man a Dram and a little after Sunrise we Set out the wind hard a head from the S E at 8 A M we landed at the Camp of the 5 hunters whome we had Sent a head, they had killed nothing, the wind being too high for us to proceed in Safty through the emecity of Snags which was imediately below we concluded to lye by and Sent on the Small Canoes a Short distance to hunt and kill Some meat, we Sent out 2 men in the bottom they Soon returned with one turky and informed that the rushes was so high and thick that it was impossible to kill any deer. I felt my Self very unwell and derected a little Chocolate which Mr. McClellen gave us, prepared of which I drank about a pint and found great relief at 11 A.M. we proceeded on about 1 mile and come up with the hunters who had killed 4 deer, here we delayed untill 5 P. M when the hunters all joined us and we again proceded on down a fiew miles and encamped on the N E Side of the Missouri haveing decended 18 Miles only to day. the day disagreeably worm. one man George Shannon left his horn and pouch with his powder ball and knife and did not think of it untill night. I walked in the bottom in the thick rushes and the Growth of timber Common to the Illinois Such as cotton wood, Sycamore, ash mulberry, Elm of different Species, walnut, hickory, horn beem, pappaw arrow wood willow, prickly ash, &c and Grape vines, pees of 3 species &c &c. Birds most Common the buzzard Crow the hooting owl and hawks, &c. &c.-
Saturday, September 13, 1806, started early. Mr. McClellen gave each man a shot, and shortly after sunrise, we set out. The wind was strong from the southeast. By 8 AM, we reached the camp of the five hunters we had sent ahead, but they hadn't caught anything because the wind was too high for us to safely navigate through the many snags just below. We decided to stay put and sent out the small canoes a short distance to hunt for some meat. Two men went out in the canoe and soon returned with one turkey, explaining that the reeds were so tall and dense that it was impossible to shoot any deer. I wasn't feeling well, so I directed the preparation of some chocolate that Mr. McClellen had given us, and I drank about a pint, which helped a lot. At 11 AM, we moved on for about a mile and caught up with the hunters, who had killed four deer. We waited here until 5 PM, when all the hunters rejoined us, and then we continued downstream for a few miles and made camp on the northeast side of the Missouri, having only traveled 18 miles today. The day was uncomfortably warm. One man, George Shannon, left his horn, pouch, powder, ball, and knife behind and didn't remember them until night. I walked along the riverbank in the thick reeds and the typical timber found in Illinois, such as cottonwood, sycamore, ash, mulberry, elm of different species, walnut, hickory, hornbeam, pawpaw, arrowwood, willow, prickly ash, and grapevines, along with various species of peas. The most common birds were buzzards, crows, hooting owls, and hawks.
[Clark, September 14, 1806]
Sunday 14th Sept. 1806 Set out early and proceeded on very well. this being the part of the Missouri the Kanzas nation resort to at this Season of the year for the purpose of robbing the perogues passing up to other nations above, we have every reason to expect to meet with them, and agreeably to their Common Custom of examining every thing in the perogues and takeing what they want out of them, it is probable they may wish to take those liberties with us, which we are deturmined not to allow of and for the Smallest insult we Shall fire on them. at 2 P.M. a little below the lower of the old Kanzas Village we met three large boats bound to the Yanktons and Mahars the property of Mr. Lacroy, Mr. Aiten & Mr. Coutau all from St. Louis, those young men received us with great friendship and pressed on us Some whisky for our men, Bisquet, Pork and Onions, & part of their Stores, we continued near 2 hours with those boats, makeing every enquirey into the state of our friends and Country &c. those men were much affraid of meeting with the Kanzas. we Saw 37 Deer on the banks and in the river to Day 5 of which we killed those deer were Meager. we proceeded on to an Island near the middle of the river below our encampment of the 1st of July 1804 and encamped haveing decended only 53 miles to day. our party received a dram and Sung Songs untill 11 oClock at night in the greatest harmoney.
Sunday, September 14, 1806 We set out early and made good progress. This area of the Missouri River is where the Kanzas tribe comes at this time of year to rob the boats passing through to other tribes upstream. We fully expect to encounter them, and based on their usual practice of searching the boats and taking what they want, it's likely they might try to do the same with us. We are determined not to tolerate that, and for even the smallest insult, we will fire at them. At 2 PM, a little below the old Kanzas Village, we met three large boats heading to the Yanktons and Mahars, owned by Mr. Lacroy, Mr. Aiten, and Mr. Coutau, all from St. Louis. These young men welcomed us warmly and offered us some whiskey for our crew, biscuits, pork, onions, and part of their supplies. We spent nearly two hours with them, asking about our friends, the state of the country, and so on. They were quite afraid of running into the Kanzas. We saw 37 deer along the banks and in the river today, killing 5 of them, though they were lean. We continued on to an island in the middle of the river, not far from our campsite of July 1, 1804, and set up camp, having traveled only 53 miles today. Our group enjoyed a drink and sang songs until 11 o'clock at night in great harmony.
[Clark, September 15, 1806]
Monday 15th of September 1806 we set out early with a Stiff Breeze a head saw Several deer Swiming the river soon after we Set out. at 11 A.M. passed the enterance of the Kanzas river which was very low, about a mile below we landed and Capt Lewis and my Self assended a hill which appeared to have a Commanding Situation for a fort, the Shore is bold and rocky imediately at the foot of the hill, from the top of the hill you have a perfect Command of the river, this hill fronts the Kanzas and has a view of the Missouri a Short distance above that river. we landed one time only to let the men geather Pappaws or the Custard apple of which this Country abounds, and the men are very fond of. we discovered a Buck Elk on a Small Island, and sent the 2 fields and Shannon in pursute of it they Soon Came up with and killed the Elk, he was large and in fine order we had his flesh Secured and divided. as the winds were unfabourable the greater part of the day we only decended 49 Miles and encamped a Short distance Above Hay Cabin Creek we are not tormented by the Musquetors in this lower portion of the river, as we were above the river plat and as high up as the Rochejhone and for a fiew miles up that river, and above its enterance into the Missouri. we passd Some of the most Charming bottom lands to day and the uplands by no means bad, all well timberd. the weather disagreeably worm and if it was not for the constant winds which blow from the S. and S E. we Should be almost Suficated Comeing out of a northern Country open and Cool between the Latd. Of 46° and 49° North in which we had been for nearly two years, rapidly decending into a woody Country in a wormer Climate between the Latds. 38°& 39° North is probably the Cause of our experiencing the heat much more Senceable than those who have Continued within the parralel of Latitude.
Monday, September 15, 1806, we set out early with a strong headwind. We saw several deer swimming across the river soon after we started. At 11 A.M., we passed the entrance of the Kansas River, which was very low. About a mile downstream, we landed, and Captain Lewis and I climbed a hill that seemed to be a great spot for a fort. The shore is steep and rocky right at the foot of the hill. From the top, you have a perfect view of the river; this hill faces the Kansas and overlooks the Missouri a short distance upstream. We only landed once to let the men gather pawpaws, or custard apples, which are abundant in this area and quite popular among the men. We spotted a buck elk on a small island and sent the two fields and Shannon after it. They soon caught up and killed the elk, which was large and in good condition. We secured and divided its meat. Since the winds were unfavorable for most of the day, we only descended 49 miles and camped a short distance above Hay Cabin Creek. We’re not being bothered by mosquitoes in this lower part of the river like we were above the River Platte or up as far as the Rochejhone and above its confluence with the Missouri. We passed through some of the most charming bottomlands today, and the uplands were not bad either, all well-timbered. The weather was uncomfortably warm, and if it weren't for the constant winds coming from the south and southeast, we would feel almost suffocated. Coming out of a northern area that was open and cool, located between latitudes 46° and 49° North, where we had been for nearly two years, and rapidly descending into a wooded area in a warmer climate between latitudes 38° and 39° North is probably why we feel the heat more intensely than those who have stayed within that latitude parallel.
[Clark, September 16, 1806]
Tuesday 16th September 1806 we Set out early this morning and proceded on tolerably well the Day proved excessively worm and disagreeable, So much So that the men rowed but little, at 10 A M we met a large tradeing perogue bound for the Panias we continued but a Short time with them. at 11 A. M we met young Mr. Bobidoux with a large boat of six ores and 2 Canoes, the licenes of this young man was to trade with the Panias Mahars and ottoes reather an extroadanary a license for young a man and without the Seal of the teritory anexed, as Genl. Wilkensons Signeture was not to this instrement we were Somewhat doubtfull of it. Mr. Browns Signeture we were not acquainted with without the Teritorial Seal. we made Some enquireys of this young man and Cautioned him against prosueing the Steps of his brother in attempting to degrade the American Charector in the eyes of the Indians. we proceeded on to an Island a little above our encampment of the 16th & 17th of June 1804 haveing Came 52 miles only to day.
Tuesday, September 16, 1806, we set out early this morning and proceeded fairly well. The day turned out to be excessively warm and uncomfortable, to the point that the men did little rowing. At 10 A.M., we encountered a large trading canoe heading for the Panias; we traveled with them for a short time. At 11 A.M., we met young Mr. Bobidoux, who was in a large boat with six oars and two canoes. This young man's license allowed him to trade with the Panias, Mahars, and Ottoes, which was quite unusual for someone so young and without the territory's seal attached. Since General Wilkinson's signature was not on this document, we were somewhat doubtful about its validity. We were not familiar with Mr. Brown's signature either, as it also lacked the territorial seal. We asked this young man some questions and warned him against following in his brother's footsteps by trying to undermine the American reputation in the eyes of the Indians. We continued on to an island just above our encampment from June 16th and 17th, 1804, having covered only 52 miles today.
[Clark, September 17, 1806]
Wednesday 17th September 1806 We Set out as usial early pass the Island of the little Osage Village which is considered by the navigater of this river to be the worst place in it. at this place water of the Missouri is confined between an Island and the S E main Shore and passes through a narrow chanel for more than 2 miles which is crouded with Snags in maney places quite across obligeing the navigater to pica, his passage between those Snags as he can, in maney places the current passing with great velocity against the banks which cause them to fall &c. at 11 A.M. we met a Captain McClellin late a Capt. of Artily of the U States Army assending in a large boat. this gentleman an acquaintance of my friend Capt. Lewis was Somewhat astonished to See us return and appeared rejoiced to meet us. we found him a man of information and from whome we received a partial account of the political State of our Country, we were makeing enquires and exchangeing answers &c. untill near mid night. this Gentleman informed us that we had been long Since given out by the people of the U S Generaly and almost forgotton, the President of the U. States had yet hopes of us; we received some civilities of Capt. McClellin, he gave us Some Buisquit, Chocolate Sugar & whiskey, for which our party were in want and for which we made a return of a barrel of corn & much obliges to him. Capt. McClellin informed us that he was on reather a speculative expedition to the confines of New Spain, with the view to entroduce a trade with those people. his plan is to proceede up this river to the Entcrance of the river platt there to form an establishment from which to trade partially with the Panas & Ottoes, to form an acquaintance with the Panias and provail Some of their principal Chiefs to accompany him to Santa Fee where he will appear in a stile calculated to atract the Spanish government in that quarter and through the influence of a handsome present he expects to be promited to exchange his merchindize for Silver & gold of which those people abound. he has a kind of introductory Speach from Govr. Wilkinson to the Panias and Ottoes and a quantity of presents of his own which he purposes distributing to the Panias and ELeatans with a view to gain their protection in the execution of his plans, if the Spanish Governmt. favour his plans, he purposes takeing his merchendize on mules & horses which Can easily be procured of the panias, to Some point convenient to the Spanish Settlements within the Louisiana Teritory to which place the inhabitants of New mexico may meet him for the purpose of trade &c. Capt McClellins plan I think a very good one if strictly prosued &c.
Wednesday, September 17, 1806 We set out early as usual, passing the little Osage Village, which is regarded by the navigators of this river as the worst spot on it. Here, the Missouri River is squeezed between an island and the southeast shore, flowing through a narrow channel for over two miles, filled with snags in many places completely blocking the way, forcing the navigator to pick their route carefully among the snags. In several areas, the current flows rapidly against the banks, causing them to erode, and so on. At 11 A.M., we encountered Captain McClellin, a former artillery captain in the U.S. Army, ascending in a large boat. He, an acquaintance of my friend Captain Lewis, seemed quite surprised to see us returning and appeared happy to meet us. We found him knowledgeable, and we received a partial update on the political situation in our country. We exchanged questions and answers late into the night. This gentleman informed us that we had long since been given up on by the people of the United States and were almost forgotten, though the President still held out hopes for us. Captain McClellin was courteous, offering us some biscuits, chocolate, sugar, and whiskey, items our party needed, in exchange for a barrel of corn, for which we were very grateful. He mentioned he was on a somewhat speculative expedition to the borders of New Spain, aiming to start trade with those people. His plan is to travel up this river to the mouth of the Platte River and establish a trading post to engage partially with the Pawnees and Ottoes, to get to know the Pawnees and persuade some of their chief leaders to accompany him to Santa Fe, where he would present himself in a manner designed to attract the Spanish government in that area. With the help of a generous gift, he hopes to exchange his merchandise for the silver and gold abundant among those people. He has a sort of introductory speech from Governor Wilkinson for the Pawnees and Ottoes and a collection of his own gifts that he plans to distribute to the Pawnees and Eleatans to gain their support in executing his plans. If the Spanish government supports his objectives, he intends to transport his merchandise on mules and horses, which can easily be procured from the Pawnees, to a convenient location near the Spanish settlements within the Louisiana Territory, where the residents of New Mexico might meet him for trading purposes, and so forth. I believe Captain McClellin's plan could be quite effective if strictly followed.
we Sent 5 hunters a head with directions to halt below Grand river and hunt untill we arived which would be in the morning. This day proved worme. we decended only 30 miles to day and encamped 4 miles above Grand river on S E. Side.
we sent 5 hunters ahead with instructions to stop below the Grand River and hunt until we arrived, which would be in the morning. It was a warm day. We only traveled 30 miles today and set up camp 4 miles above the Grand River on the southeast side.
[Clark, September 18, 1806]
Thursday 18th of September 1806 we rose early Capt McClellin wrote a letter and we took our leave, and proceeded on passed the Grand river at 7 A M. a Short distance below we came up with our hunters, they had killed nothing. at 10 oClock we Came too and gathered pottows to eate we have nothing but a fiew Buisquit to eate and are partly compelled to eate poppows which we find in great quantities on the Shores, the weather we found excessively hot as usial. the lands fine particularly the bottoms. a charming Oake bottom on the S E Side of the Missouri above the 2 Charletons rivers we find the Current of this part of the Missouri much more jentle than it was as we assended, the water is now low and where it is much confin'd it is rapid. we saw very little appearance of deer, Saw one bear at a distance and 3 turkeys only to day. our party entirely out of provisions Subsisting on poppaws. we divide the buiskit which amounted to nearly one buisket per man, this in addition to the poppaws is to last is down to the Settlement's which is 150 miles the party appear perfectly contented and tell us that they can live very well on the pappaws. we made 52 miles to day only. one of our party J. Potts complains very much of one of his eyes which is burnt by the Sun from exposeing his face without a cover from the Sun. Shannon also complains of his face & eyes &c. Encamped on an Island nearly opposit to the enterance of Mine river.
Thursday, September 18, 1806, we got up early. Captain McClellin wrote a letter, and we took our leave, heading out past the Grand River at 7 A.M. A short distance below, we ran into our hunters, but they hadn’t caught anything. At 10 o’clock, we stopped to gather pawpaw fruit to eat; we only had a few biscuits left and had to rely partly on the pawpaws we found in large quantities on the shores. The weather was extremely hot as usual. The land is nice, especially the bottomlands. There’s a lovely oak bottom on the southeast side of the Missouri River above the two Charleton Rivers. We noticed that the current in this section of the Missouri is much gentler than when we were going upstream, and the water is now low; where it is constricted, it flows rapidly. We saw very few deer, just one bear at a distance and three turkeys today. Our group is completely out of supplies, living off pawpaws. We split the biscuits, which came to nearly one biscuit per person; this will have to last us until we reach the settlements, which are 150 miles away. The group seems perfectly content and says they can live well on the pawpaws. We only made 52 miles today. One of our members, J. Potts, is complaining a lot about his eye, which got sunburned from being exposed without cover. Shannon is also complaining about his face and eyes. We camped on an island almost opposite the entrance of Mine River.
[Clark, September 19, 1806]
Friday 19th of Sept. 1806 Set out this morning a little after day & proceeded on very well the men ply their oares & we decended with great velocity, only Came too once for the purpose of gathering pappows, our anxiety as also the wish of the party to proceed on as expeditiously as possible to the Illinois enduce us to continue on without halting to hunt. we Calculate on ariveing at the first Settlements on tomorrow evening which is 140 miles, and objecet of our party is to divide the distance into two days, this day to the Osarge River, and tomorrow to the Charriton a Small french Village—we arived at the Enterance of Osage River at dark and encamped on the Spot we had encamped on the 1st & 2d of June 1804 haveing Came 72 miles. a very singular disorder is takeing place amongst our party that of the Sore eyes. three of the party have their eyes inflamed and Sweled in Such a manner as to render them extreamly painfull, particularly when exposed to the light, the eye ball is much inflaimed and the lid appears burnt with the Sun, the cause of this complaint of the eye I can't account for. from it's Sudden appearance I am willing to believe it may be owing to the reflection of the Sun on the water
Friday, September 19, 1806 We set out this morning a little after dawn and made good progress. The men worked hard with their oars, and we moved downriver quickly. We only stopped once to gather pawpaws. Our eagerness to reach Illinois, as well as the group's desire to keep moving as fast as possible, motivated us to continue without taking a break to hunt. We expect to arrive at the first settlements by tomorrow evening, which is 140 miles away. Our goal is to split the distance over two days: today to the Osage River and tomorrow to the Chariton, a small French village. We reached the entrance of the Osage River at dark and set up camp at the spot where we had camped on June 1st and 2nd, 1804, having traveled 72 miles. A strange affliction is affecting our group: sore eyes. Three members have swollen and inflamed eyes that are extremely painful, especially when exposed to light. The eyeball is very inflamed, and the eyelids look sunburned. I can’t explain the cause of this eye problem, but given its sudden onset, I suspect it might be due to the sun's reflection off the water.
[Clark, September 20, 1806]
Saturday 20th Septr. 1806 as three of the party was unabled to row from the State of their eyes we found it necessary to leave one of our Crafts and divide the men into the other Canoes, we left the two Canoes lashed together which I had made high up the River Rochejhone, those Canoes we Set a drift and a little after day light we Set out and proceeded on very well. The Osage river very low and discharges but a Small quantity of water at this time for so large a river. at meridian we passed the enterance of the Gasconnade river below which we met a perogue with 5 french men bound to the Osarge Gd. village. the party being extreemly anxious to get down ply their ores very well, we Saw Some cows on the bank which was a joyfull Sight to the party and Caused a Shout to be raised for joy at ____ P M we Came in Sight of the little french Village called Charriton the men raised a Shout and Sprung upon their ores and we soon landed opposit to the Village. our party requested to be permited to fire off their Guns which was alowed & they discharged 3 rounds with a harty Cheer, which was returned from five tradeing boats which lay opposit the village. we landed and were very politely received by two young Scotch men from Canada one in the employ of Mr. Aird a Mr. ____ and the other Mr. Reed, two other boats the property of Mr. Lacomb & Mr. ____ all of those boats were bound to the Osage and Ottoes. those two young Scotch gentlemen furnished us with Beef flower and Some pork for our men, and gave us a very agreeable supper. as it was like to rain we accepted of a bed in one of their tents. we purchased of a Citizen two gallons of Whiskey for our party for which we were obliged to give Eight dollars in Cash, an imposition on the part of the Citizen. every person, both French and americans Seem to express great pleasure at our return, and acknowledged them selves much astonished in Seeing us return. they informed us that we were Supposed to have been lost long Since, and were entirely given out by every person &c.
Saturday, September 20, 1806. Since three members of our party were unable to row due to their eyes, we decided to leave one of our boats behind and split the remaining men into the other canoes. We secured the two canoes I had made earlier up the Rochejhone River and set them adrift. Shortly after dawn, we set out and made good progress. The Osage River was very low and was only discharging a small amount of water for such a large river. By noon, we passed the entrance of the Gasconnade River, where we encountered a pirogue with five French men heading to the Osage Grand Village. The party, eager to move quickly, was rowing vigorously. We spotted some cows on the bank, which brought joy to the party and prompted a cheer. At ____ PM, we saw the small French village called Charriton, and the men shouted, picking up their oars as we quickly landed opposite the village. Our group requested to fire their guns, which was allowed, and they discharged three rounds with hearty cheers, which was returned by five trading boats across from the village. We landed and were warmly welcomed by two young Scottish men from Canada, one employed by Mr. Aird, a Mr. ____, and the other Mr. Reed. Two other boats belonged to Mr. Lacomb and Mr. ____, all of which were bound for the Osage and Ottoe territories. These two young Scottish gentlemen provided us with beef flour and some pork for our men, and they hosted a very pleasant supper for us. With rain likely, we accepted an offer to sleep in one of their tents. We also purchased two gallons of whiskey from a local citizen for eight dollars in cash, which felt like a bit of a rip-off. Everyone, both French and American, seemed genuinely happy to see us return and expressed their surprise, as they had thought we were lost for a long time and had entirely given up on us.
Those boats are from Canada in the batteaux form and wide in perpotion to their length. their length about 30 feet and the width 8 feet & pointed bow & Stern, flat bottom and rowing Six ores only the Skeneckeity form. those Bottoms are prepared for the navigation of this river, I beleive them to be the best Calculated for the navigation of this river of any which I have Seen. they are wide and flat not Subject to the dangers of the roleing Sands, which larger boats are on this river. the American inhabitants express great disgust for the govermt of this Teritory. from what I can lern it arises from a disapmt. of getting all the Spanish Grants Confirmed-. Came 68 ms. to day.
Those boats are from Canada, designed as batteaux, and they are wide in proportion to their length. They are about 30 feet long and 8 feet wide, with pointed bows and sterns, a flat bottom, and rowed with six oars, following the Skeneckeity design. These bottoms are built for navigating this river, and I believe they are the best suited for it of any I've seen. They are wide and flat, not vulnerable to the dangers of rolling sands that larger boats face on this river. The American residents express great frustration with the government of this territory. From what I gather, it stems from disappointment over the failure to get all the Spanish grants confirmed. Came 68 miles today.
[Clark, September 21, 1806]
Sunday 21st Septr. 1806 rose early this morning Colected our men Several of them had axcepted of the invitation of the Citizens and visited their families. at half after 7 A. M we Set out. passed 12 canoes of Kickapoos assending on a hunting expedition. Saw Several persons also Stock of different kind on the bank which reviv'd the party very much. at 3 P M we met two large boats assending. at 4 P M we arived in Sight of St. Charles, the party rejoiced at the Sight of this hospital village plyed thear ores with great dexterity and we Soon arived opposit the Town, this day being Sunday we observed a number of Gentlemen and ladies walking on the bank, we Saluted the Village by three rounds from our blunderbuts and the Small arms of the party, and landed near the lower part of the town. we were met by great numbers of the inhabitants, we found them excessively polite. we received invitations from Several of those Gentlemen a Mr. Proulx, Taboe, Decett, Tice Dejonah & Quarie and several who were pressing on us to go to their houses, we could only visit Mr. Proulx and Mr. Deucett in the course of the evening. Mr. Querie under took to Supply our party with provisions &c. the inhabitants of this village appear much delighted at our return and seem to vie with each other in their politeness to us all. we Came only 48 miles today. the banks of the river thinly Settled &c.
Sunday, September 21, 1806, we got up early this morning and gathered our men. Several of them had accepted the invitations from the locals and visited their families. At 7:30 A.M., we set out. We passed 12 canoes of Kickapoos heading upstream for a hunting trip. We also saw several people and livestock of different kinds along the riverbank, which really lifted the spirits of the group. At 3 P.M., we met two large boats moving upstream. At 4 P.M., we caught sight of St. Charles, and the party cheered at the sight of this welcoming village. We skillfully rowed our boats and soon arrived opposite the town. Since today was Sunday, we noticed many gentlemen and ladies walking along the bank. We greeted the village with three rounds from our guns and small arms, then landed near the lower part of the town. We were met by a large number of the townspeople, who were very polite. We received invitations from several gentlemen: Mr. Proulx, Taboe, Decett, Tice Dejonah, Quarie, and others who urged us to visit their homes. We could only go to see Mr. Proulx and Mr. Deucett that evening. Mr. Querie offered to supply our group with provisions. The townspeople seemed really happy about our return and competed with each other in being friendly to us. We traveled only 48 miles today. The riverbanks were sparsely settled, and so on.
[Clark, September 22, 1806]
Monday 22nd of Sept. 1806 This morning being very wet and the rain Still Continueing hard, and our party being all Sheltered in the houses of those hospitable people, we did not think proper to proceed on untill after the rain was over, and continued at the house of Mr. Proulx. I took this oppertunity of writeing to my friends in Kentucky &c. at 10 A M. it seased raining and we Colected our party and Set out and proceeded on down to the Contonemt. at Coldwater Creek about 3 miles up the Missouri on it's Southern banks, at this place we found Colo. Hunt & a Lieut Peters & one Company of Artillerists we were kindly received by the Gentlemen of this place. Mrs. Wilkinson the Lady of the Govr. & Genl. we wer Sorry to find in delicate health.
Monday, September 22, 1806 This morning was very wet, and the rain was still coming down hard. Since our group was all sheltered in the homes of those hospitable people, we decided it wasn't right to leave until after the rain stopped, so we stayed at Mr. Proulx's house. I took this opportunity to write to my friends in Kentucky, etc. At 10 A.M., the rain finally stopped, and we gathered our group to set out, heading down to the cantonment at Coldwater Creek, about 3 miles up the Missouri on its southern banks. There, we found Colonel Hunt, Lieutenant Peters, and a company of artillery. The gentlemen here received us kindly. We were sorry to find Mrs. Wilkinson, the governor’s wife, in delicate health.
we were honored with a Salute of ____ Guns and a harty welcom at this place there is a publick Store kept in which I am informed the U. S have 60000$ worth of indian Goods
we were honored with a salute of ____ guns and a hearty welcome at this place. There is a public store here, where I’m told the U.S. has $60,000 worth of Indian goods.
[Clark, September 23, 1806]
Thursday 23rd of Septr. 1806 we rose early took the Chief to the publick store & furnished him with Some clothes &c. took an early breckfast with Colo. Hunt and Set out decended to the Mississippi and down that river to St. Louis at which place we arived about 12 oClock. we Suffered the party to fire off their pieces as a Salute to the Town. we were met by all the village and received a harty welcom from it's inhabitants &. here I found my old acquaintance Majr. W. Christy who had Settled in this town in a public line as a Tavern Keeper. he furnished us with Store rooms for our baggage and we accepted of the invitation of Mr. Peter Choteau and took a room in his house we payed a friendly visit to Mr August Chotau and Some of our old friends this evening. as the post had departed from St. Louis Capt Lewis wrote a note to Mr. Hay in Kahoka to detain the post at that place untill 12 tomorrow which was reather later than his usial time of leaveing it
Thursday, September 23, 1806, we got up early, took the Chief to the public store, and provided him with some clothes, etc. We had an early breakfast with Colonel Hunt and set out, descending to the Mississippi River and down to St. Louis, where we arrived around 12 o'clock. We allowed the party to fire off their guns as a salute to the town. We were greeted by the whole village and received a warm welcome from its inhabitants. Here, I ran into my old acquaintance Major W. Christy, who had settled in this town as a tavern keeper. He arranged store rooms for our luggage, and we accepted Mr. Peter Choteau's invitation to stay in his house. We paid a friendly visit to Mr. August Choteau and some of our old friends that evening. Since the post had already left St. Louis, Captain Lewis wrote a note to Mr. Hay in Kahoka asking him to hold the post there until 12 tomorrow, which was a bit later than its usual departure time.
[Clark, September 24, 1806]
Wednesday 24th of September 1806 I sleped but little last night however we rose early and Commencd wrighting our letters Capt. Lewis wrote one to the presidend and I wrote Govr. Harrison & my friends in Kentucky and Sent of George Drewyer with those letters to Kohoka & delivered them to Mr. Hays &. we dined with Mr. Chotoux to day, and after dinner went to a Store and purchased Some Clothes, which we gave to a Tayler and derected to be made. Capt Lewis in opening his trunk found all his papers wet, and Some Seeds spoiled
Wednesday, September 24, 1806. I barely slept last night, but we woke up early and started writing our letters. Captain Lewis wrote one to the president, and I wrote to Governor Harrison and my friends in Kentucky. I sent George Drewyer with those letters to Kohoka, and he delivered them to Mr. Hays. We had lunch with Mr. Chotoux today, and after lunch, we went to a store and bought some clothes, which we gave to a tailor and instructed him to make them. When Captain Lewis opened his trunk, he found all his papers were wet, and some seeds were spoiled.
[Clark, September 25, 1806]
Thursday 25th of Septr. 1806 had all of our Skins &c. Suned and Stored away in a Storeroom of Mr. Caddy Choteau. payed Some visits of form, to the gentlemen of St. Louis. in the evening a dinner & Ball
Thursday, September 25, 1806, we had all our skins and stuff dried and stored away in Mr. Caddy Choteau's storeroom. We made some formal visits to the gentlemen of St. Louis. In the evening, there was a dinner and a ball.
[Clark, September 26, 1806]
Friday 26th of September 1806 a fine morning we commenced wrighting &c.
Friday, September 26th, 1806, was a beautiful morning; we started writing, etc.
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